Bennet Bycicle Manual

Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited
BARNETT’S MANUAL
ANALYSIS AND PROCEDURES
FOR BICYCLE MECHANICS
5TH EDITION
VOLUME 1:
INTRODUCTION,
FRAMES, FORKS,
and BEARINGS
by John Barnett,
founder of Barnett Bicycle Institute
Illustration, Design, and Composition

by John Barnett
COPYRIGHT AND REPRODUCTION NOTICE

Rights to print a single copy of the copyrighted book contained in this file are
extended only to the registered owner of the Barnett's Manual DX compact disc.
The following serial number is assigned exclusively to the registered owner.
Any printing from sources other than the original Barnett's Manual DX disc are
forbidden. Any digital reproduction or distribution in whole or in part is
expressly forbidden. To confirm the registered owner of this disc, please call:
Barnett Bicycle Institute 719-632-5173 SERIAL NUMBER: 101-6595
Barnett’s Manual: Analysis and Procedures for Bicycle Mechanics

Volume 1: Introduction, Frames, Forks, and Bearings
Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
in any form or by any means, electronic, photocopy, or otherwise without the prior written permission of
the publisher.
Volumes 1 – 4 (set)
International Standard Book Number: 1-931382-29-8
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data applied for.
Printed in the USA
Distributed in the Unites States and Canada by Publishers Group West.
VeloPress
1830 N. 55th Street
Boulder, Colorado 80301-2700 USA
303/440-0601; fax 303/444-6788; e-mail velopress@7dogs.com
To purchase additional copies of this book or other VeloPress books, call

800/234-8356 or visit us on the Web at www.velopress.com.
Cover design by Rebecca Finkel, F+P Graphics

Interior design and composition by John Barnett
REGISTER NOW!
To register your ownership of this edition of Barnett’s Manual, simply fill in
your address in the place provided on this page, then mail to:
BBI, 2755 Ore Mill Dr. #14, Colorado Springs, CO, 80904
BUT WHY REGISTER?

To be eligible to subscribe to the Barnett’s Manual DX upgrade, which includes
printable worksheets from this manual, an interactive on-screen version of
this book, and four-times-a-year technical updates!
To receive complimentary samples of a useful BBI product*
To be eligible to purchase replacements for damaged or lost pages.
Your name:___________________________________________________
Shop name (if any): _____________________________________________
Address:_____________________________________________________
City:__________________________ State:____________ Zip:__________
E-mail:_______________________________________________________
REGISTER NOW (or you’ll probably forget)!

* Useful BBI product: Several sheets of the bearing-calibration stickers that
are recommended in this book for quick and precise adjustment of bottom
brackets, headsets, and hubs.
This page is blank by popular request of purchas-

ers of earlier editions, who could not abide the idea
of removing the registration page and losing the
“filler” that was put on this page so it would be OK
to remove the page.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR

John Barnett is a cyclist, bicycle mechanic, bike-shop service manager,
educator, and founder of Barnett Bicycle Institute. He first worked in a bike
shop in Austin, Texas, as a mechanic and store manager in 1973. He has since
worked in bike shops in Boulder, Colorado, and Colorado Springs, Colorado, as
both a mechanic and service manager. In 1979, while working at a bike shop in
Colorado Springs, he started a program for training professional bicycle mechanics
that eventually became the Barnett Bicycle Institute. In 1986, when the program
outgrew being an off-season activity, he founded the Barnett Bicycle Institute. In
addition to writing five editions of Barnett’s Manual, Barnett has been a technical
columnist and associate editor for Cyclist magazine and has authored several other
books, including The Service Manager’s Handbook, The Ultimate Flat Rate Chart, The
Complete Checklist System, and Selling Service.
ABOUT BARNETT BICYCLE INSTITUTE

Barnett Bicycle Institute is a business that is dedicated to one purpose:
enhancing professionalism of bicycle mechanics, whether it is through training
mechanics, or through writing and publishing materials that enable bike shops to
provide more professional services to their customers.
Founded in 1986, BBI offers three types of public classes (as well as
private custom programs). All together, BBI offers dozens of sessions a year. Since
1986, BBI has trained at least 4,000 people to be bicycle mechanics.
BBI has an philosophy that is unique. You should find this philosophy
clearly reflected in this book. This philosophy is that bicycle mechanics is science,
not art. That subjective evaluation would be required to determine when something
is correctly done is foreign to a technology as sophisticated as bicycle design. At
BBI, mechanics learn to use measurement, not “feel,” to perform all types of
mechanical procedures. BBI emphasizes using consistent procedures based on
written materials, instead of reliance on memorization and intuitive understanding
of equipment.
BBI offers three different classes to the general public, at this time. Bicycle
Assembly & Maintenance is a one-week program designed for novices and individuals
who want to learn how to work on their own bicycles. Bicycle Repair & Overhaul
is a two-week program that is oriented toward individuals working as bicycle
mechanics. This program covers basic through advanced material. The Suspension
Service & Tuning program is a two-day program focusing on service of bicycle
suspensions.
For further information about programs, products, and services offered
by Barnett Bicycle Institute, contact BBI by mail, phone, or computer at an address
below.
BBI
2755 Ore Mill Dr. #14
Colorado Springs, Colorado 80904
(719) 632-5173
E-mail: bbinstitute@juno.com
www.bbinstitute.com
BARNETT’S MANUAL DX
Don't miss out on making the
most of your fifth edition!
Use the registration page to become

eligible for the upgrades and updates
that are part of Barnett’s Manual DX,
a subscription version of the manual
published on CD-ROM!
GUIDE TO VOLUMES
Volume 1 of Barnett’s Manual covers a variety of topics, including basic mechanical skills, frames, forks, and bearings.
The frame and fork chapters completely cover alignment of frames and forks, damage inspection of frames and forks, and
milling of bottom brackets, head tubes, and forks. The bearing chapters include service of bottom brackets, headsets, hubs, and
pedals.
In most cases, when performing a procedure covered in this volume, there is no need to reach for the other volumes.
There, of course, are a few unavoidable exceptions. For example, in this volume, in the directions for servicing the bottom
bracket, a reference is made to a procedure in chapter 20 (Volume 2) for removal of the crank arms.
The contents below provides an exact list of what is covered in this volume, chapter by chapter, and a general idea of
what is covered in each of the other volumes.
VOLUME 1: BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS, FRAMES, FORKS, AND BEARINGS

INTRODUCTION
1 — BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS
2 — TAPPING BOTTOM-BRACKET-SHELL THREADS
3 — FACING THE BOTTOM-BRACKET SHELL
4 — REAMING AND FACING THE HEAD TUBE
5 — MILLING THE FORK CROWN
6 — SIZING AND THREADING FORK COLUMNS
7 — SEAT-TUBE MILLING
8 — FRAME AND FORK ALIGNMENT AND DAMAGE
9 — ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS
10 — CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS
11 — HEADSETS
12 — LOOSE-BALL HUBS
13 — CARTRIDGE-BEARING HUBS
14 — ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP PEDALS
15 — CARTRIDGE-BEARING PEDALS
VOLUME 2: WHEELS, TIRES, AND DRIVETRAIN

CHAPTERS 16 — 27
VOLUME 3: HANDLEBARS, SEATS, SHIFT SYSTEMS, AND BRAKES

CHAPTERS 28 — 37
VOLUME 4: SUSPENSIONS AND APPENDIX

CHAPTERS 38 — 39
INTRODUCTION
PURPOSES OF THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION – 1

USING THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION – 1
ABOUT THE CHAPTER INTRODUCTION – 1
GENERAL INFORMATION INTRODUCTION – 1
TERMINOLOGY INTRODUCTION – 2
PREREQUISITES INTRODUCTION – 2
INDICATIONS INTRODUCTION – 2
TOOL CHOICES INTRODUCTION – 2
TIME AND DIFFICULTY INTRODUCTION – 2
COMPLICATIONS INTRODUCTION – 2
FIT INFORMATION INTRODUCTION – 2
PROCEDURES INTRODUCTION – 2
TROUBLESHOOTING INTRODUCTION – 3
BARNETT’S MANUAL DX INTRODUCTION – 3
USING THE WORKSHEETS INTRODUCTION – 3
THE MAKINGS OF A GOOD MECHANIC INTRODUCTION – 4
BEING METHODICAL INTRODUCTION – 4
ATTENTION TO DETAIL INTRODUCTION – 4
UNDERSTANDING MECHANICAL FUNCTIONS INTRODUCTION – 4
AVOIDING THE ASSUMPTION TRAP INTRODUCTION – 4
DEVELOPING APPROPRIATE SHORT-CUTS INTRODUCTION – 4
APPROACHING MYSTERIOUS PROBLEMS INTRODUCTION – 5
BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS INTRODUCTION – 5
CONVENTIONS OF THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION – 6
ORDER OF PROCEDURAL STEPS AND EXPLANATORY TEXT INTRODUCTION – 6
REFERENCES TO STEP NUMBERS INTRODUCTION – 6
NUMBERING OF TABLES AND ILLUSTRATIONS INTRODUCTION – 6
ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS INTRODUCTION – 6
USE OF UNITS WITH NUMBERS INTRODUCTION – 6
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS INTRODUCTION – 7
ILLUSTRATION CREDITS INTRODUCTION – 7
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
PURPOSES OF THIS BOOK Volume Three – Chapters 28–37: Handlebars,

seats, and brake systems
The purpose of this book is simple. Bicycle mechanics, Volume Four – Chapters 38–39: Suspension and
at all levels, are handicapped by a lack of information the appendix
and by the lack of a scientific approach. This handicap The pages in each volume are perforated and drilled
is most evident at the professional level. Professional so you have the option of removing them and transferring
mechanics are responsible for the safety of their cycling them to a ring binder.
customers and for the customer’s potential enjoyment of Volume One starts with the BASIC MECHANICAL
cycling; if bicycles are not assembled and repaired with SKILLS chapter. It is a good idea to acquaint yourself with
competency, the safety and enjoyment of the customer this chapter since all of the following chapters assume
are compromised. The primary goals of this book are to you have the knowledge included in this first chapter.
provide professional bicycle mechanics with the detailed Read BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS before going on to the
and accurate information necessary to assemble and repair other chapters.
bikes competently and to provide mechanics with a sci- With few exceptions, each chapter follows this general
entific approach to their trade, so that they can perform outline:
repair and maintenance at a repeatable high level. ABOUT THE CHAPTER
Unfortunately, not all consumers have access to com- GENERAL INFORMATION
petent professional mechanics. Furthermore, the books TERMINOLOGY
currently available for guiding consumers through the PREREQUISITES
intricacies of servicing their own bicycles are woefully INDICATIONS
inadequate. Ultimately, the consumer-mechanic is best TOOL CHOICES
served by a quality manual written specifically to suit her TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
or his needs. This book serves the needs of the consumer COMPLICATIONS
mechanic better than any other at the time of this writing. FIT INFORMATION
It is a clear choice: use a manual that is woefully inaccurate PROCEDURES
and incomplete or use one that far exceeds the consumer- TROUBLESHOOTING
mechanics’ needs. The secondary purpose of this book Depending on the nature of the job and your
is to serve the needs of consumer-mechanics. Since this experience, it may make sense to go through a chapter
purpose is secondary, the consumer-mechanic will find from beginning to end or just dive into a particular
that many tools and procedures recommended here are procedure. Consider the following details about each
impractical for his or her needs. of the chapter divisions.
ABOUT THE CHAPTER

USING THIS BOOK The information in this section is really brief and
simple. This section defines what equipment the chapter
This fifth edition of the Barnett’s Manual is divided
into four separate volumes, if for no other reason than covers and briefly outlines the sections of the chapter.
to make it easier to handle. The set of four covers the
entire bicycle. Each of the volumes covers one or more
mechanical areas of the bicycle and, with just a few
GENERAL INFORMATION
There is never any information immediately under
exceptions, most procedures can be done by relying only
this heading; instead, the GENERAL INFORMATION section
on the appropriate volume. The topics covered by each
merely groups several related sections together that all
volume are:
should be considered before beginning any procedure.
Volume One – Chapters 1–15: Basic mechanical
skills, frames, forks, and bearings
Volume Two – Chapters 16–27: Wheels, tires,
drivetrain, and shifting systems
INTRODUCTION – 1
INTRODUCTION
TERMINOLOGY procedure about to be undertaken is considered difficult

and/or time-consuming.
This section is a glossary that is unique to the equip-
ment covered in the chapter. In addition to written defini-
tions, there is often a drawing of a component with all the COMPLICATIONS
major parts labeled. If you have considerable experience, It would be naive to think that everything will go
this might be a good section to skip, unless you keep as simply as it is written. By making you aware of the
encountering terms that are unclear. You may find that complications that might arise during the course of
the terms in this book are used in a different way than performing a certain procedure, this section reduces the
you are familiar with. Unfortunately, the bicycle industry significance of the impact the complications might have.
suffers from a lack of uniform terminology. In most cases, familiarity with this section will enable you
to avoid these types of complications entirely. It is strongly
PREREQUISITES recommended that you read this section, whatever your
level of experience.
This is where you will find a list of procedures that
are not covered in the rest of the chapter. However, you
may need to perform these before, during, or after the FIT INFORMATION
procedures in the rest of the chapter. For example, in the You won’t find a section that appears with this
chapter on bottom brackets this section notes that you name, and many chapters don’t have a section covering
will need to be acquainted with crank-arm removal and this subject area at all. When appropriate, this section
installation to complete a bottom-bracket service. is provided to clarify all the different aspects of fit that
you may encounter when replacing parts. In most cases,
INDICATIONS the section is simply a table of the thread variations that
exist for the component in question. For example, the
This section lists the reasons that you might want to
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS chapter includes
perform some or all of the procedures described in the
a table of bottom-bracket-thread types.
chapter. Sometimes the reason is a symptom, other times
the reason might be maintenance, and occasionally the
reason is a consequence of other procedures (you need PROCEDURES
to remove the crank arms because you are servicing the This is the heart of each chapter. This section (or
bottom bracket). sections) is about the procedures used to service the
equipment that the chapter is about. In some chapters,
TOOL CHOICES there is just one procedure (“bottom-bracket overhaul”
is the only procedure in the ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM
Before undertaking a procedure, it is important
BRACKETS chapter); in other chapters there are many
to know whether you have all the tools the procedure
procedures (the SUSPENSION FORKS AND REAR SHOCKS
requires. The tool table in this section describes most of
chapter has separate procedures for dozens of different
the tools available (at the time of the writing) that will
brands and models of equipment).
be needed. Different tools that do the same thing are
The writing style changes in this section. There are
compared, and the recommended tool for each function
numbered steps that lead you from the beginning to the
is always indicated. (In the appendix there is a list of all
end of each procedure. Each numbered step has a check-
the recommended tools.)
box following the step number. These numbered steps
You will find this section useful for determining
are in a different font (print style), and the paragraphs
whether you have suitable tools on hand and what tools
are indented differently. All these differences are done
should be added to the shop’s selection.
to make the procedural steps stand out from everything
else and to make each step easier to follow as you work
TIME AND DIFFICULTY through a procedure, going back and forth between the
This short section briefly states how difficult the equipment and this book.
following procedure might be (little difficulty, moderate Periodically, these procedural steps are interrupted by
difficulty, or high difficulty) and gives a general guide- explanatory text that is in a type and paragraph form that
line for the amount of time the procedure might take. looks just like this one. The steps themselves would get
This is particularly useful to less-experienced mechanics, too wordy if every detail were included within the step.
who will find it helpful to be warned in advance that the If you have little experience, you should probably read
INTRODUCTION – 2
INTRODUCTION
each explanatory section before proceeding to the next 5th edition. In addition, the CD-ROM contains a com-
numbered step. If you are more experienced, you may plete copy of the manual, reformatted for use directly on
prefer to just go from one procedural step to the next, the computer screen. The upgrade includes an on-screen
backtracking to the explanatory sections only when a pro- interactive version of the 5th edition, which is the only
cedural step is unclear to you. This book takes a somewhat version that will be revised for technology updates and
unusual approach (by literary conventions), in that these corrections. Owners of the DX upgrade will receive an
explanatory sections precede the procedural step that they updated CD-ROM a minimum of four times a year.
explain. The philosophy of this reverse approach is simple: The worksheets on the DX upgrade CD-ROM consist
You should be informed of how and why before you act. of the same numbered procedural steps that appear in
If the explanations followed the procedural steps, all too each chapter in this manual, but in a format designed to be
often you would end up reading the explanation after printed on demand from your computer. It is intended that
performing a step, only to find out there was something you print these worksheets from the CD-ROM and use
else that should have been done. them as actual checklists while you perform a procedure.
Each procedure section is broken up into several sub- The steps on the worksheets are formatted identically to
sections. These sub-sections are usually very consistent. steps in the procedural sections of the chapters, except
The first sub-section almost always addresses existing that there are no explanatory paragraphs interjected before
conditions. The point to this sub-section is to retain all the some of the steps, as there are in this book.
valuable information about the equipment, which is lost If you do not purchase the DX upgrade, you should
once disassembling starts. The next sub-section is always feel free to photocopy the appropriate pages in a chap-
disassembly. This is where experienced mechanics usually ter that you would like to use as a checklist to guide you
start, but this is a mistake; a lot of time gets wasted trying through a procedure. Of course, because the procedures in
to figure out (after the fact) what the existing conditions the chapters are interrupted by a lot of supplemental and
were. Reading the existing conditions sub-section is always explanatory information, it will require photocopying a lot
recommended. The third section is cleaning and inspection. more pages than if you were printing the procedures directly
Mechanics usually try to do this as they go through from the CD-ROM. Copies from this book will also not be
disassembly. In most cases, it is far more efficient and as clean as pages printed from your computer.
effective to get everything disassembled, cleaned, and then
inspected. The remaining sub-sections are usually assembly
of sub-assemblies, followed by final assembly, and finishing USING THE WORKSHEETS
with adjustments. If you are a less-experienced mechanic, a good way to
As will be discussed later in this introduction, the utilize these worksheets is to use a copy each time you do
numbered steps in the procedural section of each chapter the procedure. Have the book open to the same procedure.
are reproduced, without the explanatory text and illustra- Read through the procedural section of the chapter to guide
tions, in the CD-ROM upgrade to this edition. you through the process, but as each step is done, check it
off on the worksheet photocopy. Record all information
(measurements and so on) on the worksheet print-out. If
TROUBLESHOOTING you are using the interactive on-screen version, simply enter
Most chapters end with a troubleshooting section. This the information via the keyboard direct to the screen.
is often a good place to go when a procedure is completed If you are a more-experienced mechanic, a good way
and the result is not acceptable. The troubleshooting sec- to use the worksheets is to photocopy a worksheet and
tion can also be a good place to go before starting a use the photocopy to guide you through the procedure.
procedure, particularly if there is any indication that the Whenever something on the worksheet is unclear to you,
equipment is malfunctioning in some unusual way. look up the identical step in the procedural section of the
corresponding chapter and find the explanatory text and
illustrations that are before and after the confusing step.
Less-experienced mechanics will probably need to
BARNETT’S MANUAL DX use the worksheets religiously for many repetitions of
There is an upgraded version, Barnett’s Manual 5th a procedure. More-experienced mechanics will find that
Edition DX, available only to registered owners of the after using a worksheet just a few times, the sense of the
5th edition of Barnett’s Manual. This upgrade, which is a procedure will become second nature and the only purpose
subscription published on CD-ROM only, includes copies of the worksheet will be a convenient location to record
of all the procedures that are in the printed version of the critical information (measurements and so on).
INTRODUCTION – 3
INTRODUCTION
THE MAKINGS OF A GOOD UNDERSTANDING

MECHANIC MECHANICAL FUNCTIONS
Without understanding the function of the piece of
equipment that is being serviced, all the methodology and
BEING METHODICAL details seem unimportant. This understanding of mechani-
The word methodical has a bad connotation to many cal functions is not easily taught. You must cultivate it in
people; to describe someone as slow and methodical is not yourself by looking at equipment analytically. Ask yourself
exactly a compliment. The usage of this phrase is curi- questions: What does this part contribute to the operation
ous, because it is by being methodical that a mechanic of the component? How? What would be the consequence
can develop speed. The term “methodical” implies that if it were damaged? Missing? What types of loads does this
one does things with a method: doing the same things, in item experience? What type of material is it made of and
the same order, each time. Mechanics is not an art, it is how suitable is the material? How does this component
scientific in the purest sense of the word; every mechanical function; what is the sequence of events as it functions?
procedure should be repeatable, yielding the same result Although it does not say so in each chapter, before
each time. By being methodical, a mechanic is freed from you perform any procedure, it would be a good idea to
mysterious variables. A mysterious variable occurs when just operate the equipment and analyze its function. The
you haphazardly work on something and the problem purpose of the methods and details will become clearer
goes away, but the reason is elusive. Since the reason is and you will appreciate the methods and details more once
elusive, there is no way to go directly to the source of the you have a better understanding of what’s happening when
problem (and therefore the solution) the next time the things don’t go well.
same or similar problem is encountered.
The procedural sections and the worksheets in this
book are the method. Beyond the fact that they are good
AVOIDING THE ASSUMPTION
procedures, using them will make you a better mechanic, TRAP
because they will make you methodical. The opposite of understanding mechanical functions
is to make assumptions. Don’t be too quick to reach con-
ATTENTION TO DETAIL clusions in unfamiliar areas; it is better to assume you are
missing something and think it through an extra time or
Mechanics is one place in this world where what you two, than to charge recklessly forward. Once you make an
get is exactly the sum of the parts. Leave a part out and assumption and act on it, the possibility of introducing
the end result is not whole. variables that later complicate a correct understanding is
An example: Forgetting to apply Loctite to the fixed- greatly increased. If you find yourself thinking, “How
cup threads when overhauling an adjustable-cup bottom could I have thought that this was simple?” then you have
bracket means that the fixed cup may work loose. When been guilty of falling in the assumption trap.
the fixed cup works loose, the precise adjustment achieved
when following the adjustment procedure is negated. The
loose adjustment results in an increased rate of wear of DEVELOPING APPROPRIATE
the bottom-bracket parts, and then the bottom bracket
(recently overhauled) needs to be rebuilt or replaced. The
SHORT-CUTS
When experienced mechanics are first exposed to the
Loctite that was supposed to be on the fixed cup was
methods and approaches in this book (or in the classes
not just a detail. The entire job became negated by the
at Barnett Bicycle Institute), they often wonder where all
omission of a single detail. All the effort to clean parts,
the short-cuts are. Short-cuts are an individual thing. They
inspect parts, add new grease, replace worn parts, and
are based on how many things you can simultaneously
perform a precision adjustment were wasted by neglect-
keep track of at any given time. Short-cuts should never
ing one detail.
be about skipping steps; a good short-cut combines many
Being a good mechanic requires attention to detail. If
steps into one step.
you are not currently “detail oriented,” it is an attribute
The procedures in this book contain all the steps. As
that you need to vigorously cultivate.
you become familiar with them, it will be obvious to you
that certain steps can be logically combined (at least to
your logic). This understanding will not happen until you
have used the procedures frequently enough that they
INTRODUCTION – 4
INTRODUCTION
become second nature. Looking for short-cuts before mental model that represents the equipment in perfect
this understanding has developed is a recipe for disaster. working order. The process of overlaying an ideal model
Sometimes another mechanic can be a good source of a occurs in the subconscious. Without consciously knowing
short-cut, but always analyze whether the short-cut skips what is happening, you just “see” what is wrong. What is
steps, rather than combining steps. happening in the subconscious is this: The ideal model in
your brain and the image of what you are actually seeing
APPROACHING MYSTERIOUS are laid one on top of the other, and any discrepancies
between the two images becomes automatically apparent.
PROBLEMS The ideal model is like a transparent image through which
you can see the actual image. Where corresponding points
Analysis on the transparency and the actual image do not line up,
Always start with analysis. What is the problem? the difference stands out.
Exactly how can it be described? Under what conditions Utilizing this approach is very esoteric. Many good
did it occur? When did it start? What happened just before mechanics may never be able to cultivate this skill. If you
the problem was first observed? What, if anything, can have it in your capacity to approach mysterious problems
be ruled out? in this way, right now you’ll be thinking, “I understand. I
Most importantly of all, do you understand the way already do that to some degree in other areas!” If this is
that the equipment functions? If not, examine similar you, with experience you will develop a library of ideal
equipment that is in working order until you understand models. As the library increases in size, more and more
everything that is happening as it functions. often, you will just “see” the problem.
Troubleshooting charts To enhance your ability to use these ideal models, take
There is little substitute for experience when dealing a moment to look at the equipment in question without
with a mysterious problem. Rely on the experience that thinking about what might be wrong; if other people are
led to the information in this book by thoroughly studying involved, temporarily ignore the information they have been
the appropriate troubleshooting section when a mysterious providing. It is important to stop the conscious analysis
problem occurs. Often you will find the symptom you are of the problem, because the analysis process interferes
looking for, only stated in a different way. Once you find a with your ability to access the subconscious. Look at the
matching symptom, methodically use the cause/solution equipment without bias and preconception to enable the
information provided. First check the first cause, then ideal-model-overlaying process to occur.
eliminate it by observation (or trial and error) before
proceeding down the list of causes.
BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS
Backtracking Often, very experienced mechanics are not neces-
If the problem cannot be found in the appropriate sarily very good mechanics. They know a lot of tricks
troubleshooting section, the first step is to go back through and short-cuts, but their understanding of the basics (or
the procedure again, in case anything was omitted or done commitment to utilizing them) is limited. For example, a
incorrectly. If this does not solve the problem, it is time mechanic may know from experience that a hub locknut
to start introducing variables. from a Shimano hub is a suitable replacement on a Suzue
brand hub, but having no experience with Maillard brand
Introducing variables hubs, the mechanic may not have any idea whether the
When you introduce a variable (such as changing an
same Shimano hub locknut might fit the Maillard hub.
adjustment, changing a part/component, or changing a
A mechanic with a good understanding of the “basics”
condition), thoroughly analyze the result. If the problem
would know how to measure thread diameter and pitch
changes, you are on the right track. If it does not, always
and would not be limited by lack of familiarity with a
restore the original adjustment/part/condition before
brand. Just as the details are a key to the final outcome,
introducing another variable. If you create a change
there is no substitute to utilization of good basic mechani-
through the introduction of multiple variables at the
cal skills. Mechanics of all experience levels should famil-
same time, there will be no way to determine the cause
iarize themselves with the BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS
of the change.
chapter of this book, initially, and again as needed. A good
Overlaying an ideal model mechanic never neglects the basics.
With time, you may be able to cultivate a skill called
overlaying an ideal model. An ideal model is a thought or
INTRODUCTION – 5
INTRODUCTION
CONVENTIONS OF THIS 12.4b. The figure numbers appear at the beginning of the
caption that appears underneath the figure.
BOOK
ABBREVIATIONS AND SYMBOLS
ORDER OF PROCEDURAL STEPS The following table shows the abbreviations and
symbols that are used throughout this book.
AND EXPLANATORY TEXT Symbol Meaning
In the procedural sections of each chapter, there in-lbs inch-pounds
are numbered procedural steps. Any explanatory text ft-lbs foot-pounds
regarding a numbered step will precede the numbered
Nm Newton meters
step. When constraints of layout make this impractical,
the explanatory text will include a reference by a figure kgf kilograms of force
number and a page number (if the figure is not on the " inch
same page as the procedural step). Illustrations that reflect mm millimeters
what the explanatory text covers follow the explanatory tpi threads per inch
text. Illustrations that reflect what is going on in a num- O.D. outside diameter
bered procedural step precede the numbered step or are I.D. inside diameter
referenced by a figure number and a page number (if the
ft front
figure is not on the same page as the procedural step).
rr rear
< less than
REFERENCES TO STEP NUMBERS > more than
Frequently, a procedural step or explanatory text will ≤ less than or equal to
refer to a step number. When there is no reference to a
≥ more than or equal to
section name or a page number included with the step
– minus, subtract, negative
number, the step that is being referred to is always part
of the number sequence that contains the paragraph or + plus, positive
procedural step with the step reference. ± plus or minus
÷ divide by
NUMBERING OF TABLES AND ×

=
times, multiply, by
equals
ILLUSTRATIONS ° degree(s)
There are tables in many chapters. Often, you will
need to look something up in a table that is not in the
immediate vicinity of the procedural steps being per- USE OF UNITS WITH NUMBERS
formed. In these cases, tables are referenced by number When two numbers are paired together and only one
(rather than by name). The table number appears adjacent has a unit, the other number shares the unit. For example,
to the table name at the top of the table. The numbers 3–4mm means 3mm to 4mm. For another example, the
are based on two factors. For example, table 10-3 would thread description 6 × 1mm means 6mm by 1mm.
be the third table in chapter 10.
Periodically, a procedural step or explanatory text
will refer you to an explanatory illustration. When this
happens, the illustration will be identified by number or
number-letter combination. The numbers are based on
two factors. For example, figure 10.3 would be the third
numbered figure in chapter 10. A letter is added when a fig-
ure has been inserted between sequential figures from the
previous edition. For example, if the fourth edition had a
figure 12.4 and 12.5 and the fifth edition has a new figure
that appears between 12.4 and 12.5, then 12.4 has been
renumbered to be 12.4a and the new figure is numbered
INTRODUCTION – 6
INTRODUCTION
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS for me to focus on writing this book. Furthermore, Mr.

Moorman has helped extensively with the proofreading
The following people and organizations have been and correction process. Additionally, Mr. Moorman has
invaluable in their assistance to, and support of, the cre- contributed extensively to the layout and link architecture
ation of this edition. of the interactive on-screen DX upgrade.
The students at BBI: If nothing else, our students’ Andy Stewart: Mr. Stewart is an instructor at Barnett
enthusiasm for bicycle mechanics provides more than ample Bicycle Institute. Mr. Stewart’s addition to the teaching
inspiration for this book. Nothing can replace the crucible staff at BBI has been essential in enabling me to focus
of the classroom; if a procedure did not work for our stu- on writing. Additionally, Mr. Stewart has contributed
dents, it was reworked until it made sense to them. extensively to the link architecture of the interactive
The following manufacturers and individuals have on-screen DX upgrade.
been generous with their support. Jenny Skorcz: Ms. Skorcz is an instructor at Barnett
Answer Products (Manitou): Ed Breslau and Bobby Bicycle Institute. Her experience of using these procedures
Acuna with BBI students and her subsequent feedback has been
Avid: Lonnie Thomsen most instrumental in creating the changes between the
Campagnolo: Dave Swift third, fourth, and fifth editions. Ms. Skorcz’s extremely
Cane Creek: Doug Beeler capable management of the BBI classroom has been
Cannondale: Bill Keith and Derrick Miller essential in enabling me to focus on writing.
Chris King Special thanks: One cannot know the real mean-
DT Swiss: Paul Aieta ing of love and support until one receives genuine love
Finish Line: David Clopton and support. Without the love and support of my wife,
Fox: Mike Marquez Jennifer, the creation of this edition would have been a
Hayes Disc Brakes: Nick Ginster, Matt Gissibl, completely different experience.
Andy Paradowski, and Joel Richardson
J.A. Stein Company (Stein Tools): Jim Stein
Magura: Jeff Enlow, Peter Ubbelacher, Thorsten ILLUSTRATION CREDITS
Schaette With Dia Compe’s gracious consent, the following
Morningstar Tooling Products: Paul Morningstar illustrations were done using Dia Compe illustrations as
Park Tool: Eric Hawkins and Calvin Jones a basis or model: figures 36.69 and 36.70.
Quality Bicycle Products: Steve Flagg With Shimano’s gracious consent, the following
SRAM (Grip Shift): Sam Patterson, Gretchen illustrations were done using Shimano illustrations as a
Reichard, and Chris Seaver basis or model: figures 32.1, 32.17, 32.18, 32.22, 32.24,
United Bicycle Tool: Mark Super and Pete Bate- 32.5, 32.26, 32.30, 32.31, 32.33, 32.37, 36.2, 36.5, 36.31,
man 36.35, 36.42, 36.45, 36.46, 36.49, 36.52, 36.57, 36.58, 36.59,
Wheelsmith: Jon Hjertberg 36.68, and 37.5.
White Industries: Lynette Toepfer
RockShox: Seth Metteer and Derek Beich, both grad-
uates of Barnett Bicycle Institute, have provided invaluable
support by providing product and technical assistance.
Shimano of America Corporation: Chad Roberts,
Kent Wright, Robert Plunket, and Jessie Gascon (and
others) have provided invaluable support, product, and
technical assistance.
VeloPress (the publisher): The publishers at
VeloPress have given me ultimate control over the
production of this book, and the result is a book with
which I feel completely happy. Particular thanks are
extended to Amy Sorrels (publisher) and Renee Jardine
(managing editor).
Max Moorman: Mr. Moorman’s contribution has
been to manage the business office here at BBI in such
a capable manner as to create ample amounts of time
INTRODUCTION – 7
1 – BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

This 1.0mm gauge does not
1.0 match the thread
This 26tpi gauge (marked 26G)

26G matches the thread
Correct (engaging knife edges)
0
.9 .1
.8 .2
.7 .3
.6 .4
0 1 .5 .5
.4 .6
.3 .7
.2 .8
.1 0 .9
Correct (thread axis perpen-

dicular to caliper face)
Incorrect (thread axis paral-

lel to caliper face)
Incorrect (below knife edges)
0
.9 .1
.8 .2
.7 .3
.6 .4
0 1 .5 .5
.4 .6
.3 .7
.2 .8
.1 .9
0
Incorrect (in part of jaw that

doesn't close fully)
Incorrect (knife edges of jaw
inserting in threads)
GENERAL TERMINOLOGY OF BICYCLE PARTS 1–1

THREADS 1–2
THREAD IDENTIFICATION 1–2
THREAD TENDENCIES 1–4
PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY OF THREADS 1–5
REPAIR OF DAMAGED THREADS 1–5
REMOVAL OF DIFFICULTS NUTS AND BOLTS 1–6
PRESS FITS 1–7
DEFINITION AND IDENTIFICATION OF PRESS-FIT TOLERANCES 1–7
PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY OF PRESS FITS 1–7
LUBRICANTS 1–8
GREASE 1–8
OILS 1–8
CLEANSERS AND POLISHES 1–9
TOOLS 1 – 10
BOX- AND OPEN-END WRENCHES 1 – 10
HEX AND TORX WRENCHES 1–10
RATCHET DRIVES AND SOCKETS 1 – 10
TORQUE WRENCHES 1 – 11
ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES 1 – 12
PLIERS AND VISE GRIPS 1 – 12
SCREWDRIVERS 1 – 12
MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE 1 – 12
HAMMERS 1 – 12
HACKSAWS 1 – 13
FILES 1 – 12
GRINDER 1 – 13
DRILLING 1 – 13
TAPS 1 – 14
USING REPAIR STANDS 1 – 14
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Chain stay: The two tubes of the frame that go from
the lower end of the seat tube and meet the seat stays at
This chapter has several sections. It should be read
the center of the rear wheel.
carefully to prepare for using all the other chapters.
Crankset: The mechanism that is turned by the rider’s
The first section is GENERAL TERMINOLOGY OF
BICYCLE PARTS. This section covers only the most basic feet. It consists of two lever arms called crank arms, one to
and universal terms. The other chapters will each start with three gears called chainrings, and a bearing assembly that
a terminology section with terms that are more specific. the crank arms rotate around called the bottom bracket.
The second section is THREADS. Understanding Derailleur: There are two such mechanisms: a front
thread descriptions and thread types is perhaps the most derailleur and a rear derailleur. The front derailleur moves
important basic mechanical skill. the chain between the selection of gears on the crankset;
The third section is PRESS FITS. Press fits are a the rear derailleur moves the chain between the selection
means of holding pieces together other than by thread- of gears on the rear wheel.
ing them. It is a system with its own unique set of Down tube: The lower tube of the frame that extends
techniques and rules. from the bottom of the head tube to the bottom of the
The fourth section is LUBRICANTS. Understanding frame (the bottom-bracket shell).
the proper use of greases and oils is critical to being a Dropout: The fittings at the end of the fork, and at
good mechanic. the juncture of the seat stays and the chain stays, to which
The fifth section is CLEANSERS AND POLISHES. This the wheels are attached.
section covers what types of cleansers, solvents, and pol- Top tube
ishes might be used, and how to use them properly.
The last section is TOOLS. This section covers use of
common mechanic’s tools. The other chapters describe Seat stay Head tube
how to use bicycle-mechanic-specific tools. A list of rec-
ommended tools is in the appendix (page 39-3).
Seat tube
Chain stay Down tube

GENERAL TERMINOLOGY Dropout Fork
OF BICYCLE PARTS Bottom-bracket shell

Dropouts
Chapters on individual component areas of the
bicycle have more specific terminology and definitions.
For the purpose of this manual, the following terms apply 1.1 Parts of the frameset.
to the frame and basic components.
Bottom bracket: The bearing assembly that allows Front derailleur
the crankset to rotate in the bottom-bracket shell. Freewheel
Bottom-bracket shell: The portion of the frame Chain
that contains the crankset bearing parts, which are called
the bottom bracket. Crankset
Brake caliper: The mechanisms that squeeze against
the rims or brake discs to control the bike’s speed. Rear derailleur
Brake lever: The levers that are operated by the rider’s
hands to control the braking function. Chain
Chain: The loop of links that connects the front
gears to the rear gears.
1.2 Parts of the drivetrain.
1–1
Fork: The structural piece that attaches the frame Seat stay: The two tubes of the frame that start from
to the front wheel. The fork turns to allow the rider to below the seat and meet the chain stays at the center of
control the bicycle. the rear wheel.
Frame: The structural piece, usually a number of Seat tube: The near-vertical tube that is at the middle
tubes joined together, to which all of the components of the frame, into which the seat post slides.
are attached. Shift lever: The levers operated by the rider’s hands
Frame set: The frame and fork combination. that control the derailleurs.
Freehub: A hub and freewheel that have been com- Spokes: The tensioned wires that join the hub and
bined into a single integrated assembly. rim together.
Freewheel: The set of rear gears. Freewheels and Stem: The piece that connects the handlebars to
freehubs have a confusing overlap of terminology. For the fork.
clarification, see the terminology section of Chapter 25 (page 25-1) Tire: The rubber hoop at the outer edge of the wheel
regarding these items. In a general sense, the freewheel is the assembly.
set of gears that the chain turns in order to apply drive Top tube: The upper tube of the frame that extends
forces to the rear wheel. back from the head tube to the seat tube.
Handlebar: The piece that supports the rider’s hands Wheel: The assembly consisting of the hub, spokes,
and is turned to control the bike. rim, tire, and tube.
Headset: The bearing assembly that connects the
fork to the frame and allows the fork to rotate inside the
head tube.
Head tube: The near-vertical tube that is the forward-
most part of the frame. THREADS
Hub: The assembly at the center of the wheel that
houses the axle bearings and to which spokes attach.
Pedal: A mechanism that supports the rider’s foot.
THREAD IDENTIFICATION
One of the key challenges to the mechanic is to be able
It contains a bearing assembly and is mounted to the
to replace or upgrade parts with compatible parts. One of
crank arm.
the most significant obstacles to be overcome is the number
Rim: The hoop at the outer edge of the wheel to of different thread standards used on bicycles. For example
which the tire is mounted. rear axles alone come in eight different varieties. Threads
Seat: The soft structure that supports the rider’s are described by a two part number, such as 3/8" × 26tpi
posterior. Also called “saddle.” or 10mm × 1mm. The first number refers to the diameter
Seat post: The pillar (usually a tube of metal) that of the external thread and the second number refers to the
attaches the seat to the frame. pitch. When identifying a thread, start with pitch.
Hub Spokes Rim Tire The first step to identifying a thread is to measure the
pitch with a pitch gauge. Pitch is a measurement of the
frequency of threads, or the distance from one thread to
the next. In an inch system (BSC and Whitworth), pitch is
measured by the number of threads that occur in one inch
of thread length, and in a metric system, pitch is the distance
from one thread to the next.
Pitch is measured with a pitch gauge by mating the
gauge to the thread. If the gauge can be held down in
the thread at both ends simultaneously, the thread is
identified (see figure 1.4). The best pitch gauges available
come with both metric and Whitworth gauges. Although
Whitworth is quite rare, Whitworth pitch gauges are com-
patible with the BSC (British Standard Cycle) threads
found on many bicycle parts. Although gauges are not
normally marked with the appropriate units, the thread
is metric whenever the number includes a decimal point,
and the pitch is in inches whenever the number on the
gauge is followed by the letter “G” or the letters “tpi”
1.3 Parts of the wheel. (for threads per inch).
1–2
Correct (engaging knife edges)

This 1.0mm gauge does not
1.0 match the thread
0
.9 .1
.8 .2
.7 .3
.6 .4
0 1 .5 .5
This 26tpi gauge (marked 26G)
26G matches the thread .4 .6
.3 .7
.2 .8
.1 0 .9
1.4 When the teeth of the thread pitch gauge all go Correct (thread axis perpen-
into the threads simultaneously, then the gauge matches
dicular to caliper face)
the thread.
The next step to thread identification is to mea-
Incorrect (thread axis paral-
sure the diameter. Diameter is a measurement of the
lel to caliper face)
external thread’s outside diameter (O.D.). It is usually
a nominal measurement. A measurement is a nominal
measurement when an actual measurement is rounded
up to an even number. For example, a thread with a
6mm diameter is only nominally 6mm. The actual di-
ameter is more like 5.9mm.
Metric bicycle threads are available in .5-millimeter
Incorrect (below knife edges)
increments, so always round the actual measurement
up to the nearest .5mm to arrive at the nominal mea-
surement. Inch bicycle threads are available in minimum .8
.9
0
.1
1/16 inch increments, so always round up to the near-

.2
.7 .3
est 1/16 inch or its decimal equivalent to arrive at the .6 .4
nominal measurement. 0 1 .5 .5
Examples: .4
If the thread measures 5.9mm— it is 6.0mm.

.6
.3
If the thread measures .370"— it is .375".

.7
.2 .8
If the thread measures 23/64"— it is 3/8". .1

0 .9
Diameter may be measured in inches or millimeters.

The best way to determine which units to use is by mea- Incorrect (in part of jaw that
suring the pitch first, because the diameter is almost always doesn't close fully)
in the same units (a 1.0mm pitch threaded item is sure to Incorrect (knife edges of jaw
have a metric diameter). The exceptions are on Italian- inserting in threads)
manufactured frames, which have metric diameter and
inch pitch on the fork and in the bottom-bracket shell,
and on Italian-made hubs, which may have metric diam-
eter axles with inch pitch. Italian bikes will also have this
combination of metric diameter and inch pitch on the 1.5 Correct and incorrect ways to measure thread
freewheel mounting threads, but in this case it is not an diameter.
issue because the Italian thread happens to be compatible Internal thread diameters are rarely provided. When
with the common BSC freewheel threads. Also, Jou Yu the pitch is 24tpi, 26tpi, or 1mm, the inside diameter will
(Joy Tech) hub axles have metric diameter combined with be approximately .7–.9mm less than the external thread.
inch pitch in some inconsistent cases. Following is a chart of useful equivalents of thread
When measuring diameter use a caliper. Measure the diameter. Start by taking a measurement in inches or mil-
thread with the axis of the thread perpendicular to the face limeters and then look in the right-most column for the
of the caliper. The axle should be centered in the caliper nominal thread diameter.
jaws and not on any slot in the threads.
1–3
have decreased, it is a right-hand thread. If the gauge is
THREAD DIAMETER EQUIVALENTS (table 1-1) rotated counterclockwise instead of clockwise, the results
Approximate Approximate Nominal will be opposite.
measurement measurement fractional inch
in millimeters in inches thread diameter
7.7mm .303" 5/16"
9.4mm .366" 3/8" 1.0mm
12.5mm .492" 1/2"
14.1mm .555" 9/16" Start with a half-tooth out Two half-teeth out after
25.2mm .992" 1" a half-turn rotation
28.4mm 1.118" 1–1/8"
1.7 Rotate a thread pitch gauge in an internal thread to
31.6mm 1.244" 1–1/4" determine the thread direction.
34.7mm 1.366" 1–3/8"
Approximate
measurement
Approximate
measurement
Nominal
metric thread THREAD TENDENCIES
in inches in millimeters diameter It is helpful to know what threads are likely to be
.149" 3.8mm 4.0mm encountered in certain situations. The country of origin of
.189" 4.8mm 5.0mm a bicycle frame is likely to determine the thread used in the
.228" 5.8mm 6.0mm bottom bracket and the fork/headset. Different countries
.307" 7.8mm 8.0mm tend to use different thread standards. The standards are
.351" 8.8mm 9.0mm BSC, Metric, Italian Whitworth, and ISO. ISO stands for
.346" 9.3mm 9.5mm the International Standards Organization. The ISO has
.389" 9.8mm 10.0mm adopted many existing thread descriptions to be the ISO
.976" 24.8mm 25.0mm standard. Some of these existing threads are metric, and
1.358" 34.5mm 34.7mm some are BSC. ISO standard threads may have a metric or
1.370" 34.8mm 35.0mm inch description.
1.409" 35.8mm 36.0mm Bicycle frames made in Asia are certain to be BSC
On all pedals and most bottom-bracket threads (as well or ISO thread. Bicycle frames made in the U.S. are also
as other rare occurrences), the final aspect of thread iden- virtually certain to be BSC or ISO thread, but sometimes
tification is the thread direction. Right-hand threads (most small manufacturers of top-end road-racing bikes use
common) tighten or are installed with a clockwise rotation Italian threads. Bicycle frames made in Italy are virtually
and loosen or are removed with a counterclockwise rotation. certain to be Italian thread. French bicycles are the great-
Left-hand threads (left pedals, some right-hand-side bottom- est source of confusion because they used to be French
bracket parts, and certain freewheel cones and dust caps) thread, then switched to Swiss thread, and finally have
tighten or are installed with a counterclockwise rotation and switched to ISO threading. Bicycle frames from other
loosen or are removed with a clockwise rotation. countries are seen much more rarely, and it is best to rely
Thread direction of external threads may be identified strictly on measurements in these cases. See the bottom
by observation. Held vertically, the threads on a right-hand bracket and headset chapters for description of BSC, ISO,
thread will slope up to the right, and the threads on a left- French, Swiss, and Italian threads. For the bottom bracket,
hand thread will slope up to the left (see figure 1.6). refer to table 9-2 (page 9-5), and for the headset refer to
table 11-2 (page 11-10).
Left-hand Right-hand The country of origin of a component is useful in
thread thread
determining the thread type of fittings within the com-
ponent, but the threads that attach a component to another
component or the frame may be unrelated to the country
1.6 Whether the thread slopes up to the left or up to of origin. For example, a bottom bracket made in Japan
the right shows the thread direction. for an Italian bicycle would be Italian thread. Another
Internal threads may be identified as left or right by example would be that an Italian-made freewheel installed
the following test. Install a matching thread pitch gauge as original equipment on an older French bicycle would
into the thread in question with exactly one tooth of the probably be a French thread. The threads used within any
gauge left outside the thread. Rotate the gauge in the Japanese, Taiwanese, or French component are likely to
threads at least one-half turn clockwise. Observe the be metric. The threads used within any Italian component
amount of gauge teeth outside the thread at this point. are likely to be metric or Italian Whitworth (a bizarre
If they have increased, it is a left-hand thread. If they combination of metric diameter and inch pitch). There is
1–4
little consistency with U.S. component manufacturers to If only one grade of Loctite were to be used, it
use metric or inch threads. Those U.S. component “man- should be Loctite 242. It is heavier than the 222 and
ufacturers” that contract to have their products made in is used on larger diameter threads. Typical uses of
Asia are more likely to use metric threads. For example, Loctite 242 include bottom-bracket fixed cups and
Grip Shift uses metric threads on fittings, but fittings on headset locknuts, but it is also acceptable to use it on
Bullseye hubs use inch pitch threads. smaller thread diameters.
Loctite 290 is a special application thread locker
PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY that is more heavy-duty than 242, but it can be applied
to already assembled components to penetrate into the
OF THREADS threads. Typical uses of Loctite 290 include already
The primary form of thread preparation is lubri- installed accessories (such as fenders) and already
cation. Preparation of threads with oil or grease permits installed bottom-bracket fixed cups.
ease of assembly and disassembly. Lubrication makes it Loctite 272 and 277 are extremely heavy-duty com-
easier to feel when the threaded component is becoming pounds that would not allow removal without damage to
tight enough. Corrosion is also reduced by lubrication; the tool or part. They are used when threads are damaged
however, lubrication is counter effective on threads
and as an alternative to replacement when permanent
with nylon inserts.
installation will not be a problem. Loctite RC680 serves
In most cases the lubrication choice is between oil and
grease. Oil is generally used on threads of small diameter as a substitute for 272/277 and can be used in other non-
or fine pitch. Ease of application is the primary advantage thread applications on the bike, such as enhancing the
compared to grease. Grease is used on threads of larger security of a pressed-in part like a headset cup.
diameter and coarser threads. Its advantage over oil is dura- Loctite 660 (Quick Metal) is not applicable to threads
bility under exposure to moisture and less of a tendency to at all, but will fill gaps for press fits of up to .5mm.
evaporate. An alternative to grease is to use an anti-seize When assembling threads pay close attention to how
compound. Anti-seize compounds are grease-based com- they feel. Threads that feel tight during assembly should
pounds that have additional properties. The grease base be checked for:
itself is much more resistant to evaporation and wash out Thread compatibility
than regular grease. In addition, the anti-seize compound Paint in threads (Clean with tap.)
contains ingredients that neutralize galvanic corrosion. Gal- Damaged threads (Clean with tap, die, thread
vanic corrosion is the tendency of two dissimilar metals in chaser, or file.)
contact with each other to chemically weld together. Cross-threading (Restart thread with better align-
In some cases it is preferable to use a compound ment.)
called Loctite instead of lubrication. Loctite is a liquid That threads feel effortless to assemble is not by
that hardens and expands after application. It is not a itself an indication of thread compatibility. When the
glue, but works by expanding to fill a gap and exerting
internally threaded item is oversized to the externally
pressure between the parts. Loctite used on threads aids
threaded item, no effort will be required for assembly,
ease of assembly, prevents corrosion (including gal-
vanic corrosion), prevents threaded components from even when there is a pitch mismatch. If pitch match has
coming loose, and consequentially reduces the need to not been verified but the difference between the O.D.
over-tighten parts, risking their damage. Loctites gen- and I.D. of the parts is acceptable, then it is acceptable
erally cure in a few hours. The hard cake that Loctite to use test-mating of parts as a way to determine com-
compounds cure into is not an adhesive. The hard cake patibility. This is a useful technique in cases where it is
deteriorates if the threaded item is turned after cur- impractical to check the pitch because of small I.D. or
ing. Use of Loctite is redundant on threads with nylon short overall thread length.
inserts. (Loctite is toxic – minimize contact.) A thread that gets tight and then feels easier to turn
There are several grades of Loctite. Some of the as it is secured is probably stripping.
following grades are available from automotive stores or
United Bicycle Supply, but some must be purchased at
industrial bearing supply companies. REPAIR OF DAMAGED THREADS
Loctite 222 is the lightest grade available and is Ideally, when threads are damaged the part should be
applicable on thread diameters up to 6mm. Typical uses of replaced. If tools are available and the damage is not too
Loctite 222 include: accessory mounting bolts/nuts, brake severe, it may be possible to repair the thread.
mounting bolts/nuts, and derailleur limit screws. The best repair will be accomplished with a thread
cutting tool such as a tap (for internal threads) or die (for
1–5
external threads). When repairing threads with a tap or die, will lead to poor thread depth and will probably result
first make sure the damaged thread and tap or die have in further thread failure. The use of a smaller bit than
compatible thread descriptions. Start the tap or die on the recommended will result in the tap jamming and break-
end of the threaded item that is in the best condition to ing off in the hole. To determine the correct drill size a
ensure proper alignment. simple formula can be used. If it is a metric thread, subtract
If the die is a variety with a split in it so it can be the pitch from the nominal diameter of the thread; for
compressed or expanded, it should be fit in a special die example, converting a stripped 4.5mm × .8mm internal
handle that has expansion and compression adjusters. thread to 5mm × .8mm requires drilling the hole out to
Thread the die onto the good portion of the thread 4.2mm (5.0 – .8 = 4.2). Another example: The correct tap
with it expanded to a loose fit. Then compress it until drill for tapping a 6mm × 1mm thread would be 5mm
it is barely snug before starting to cut on the threads (6 – 1 = 5). For inch thread (which is unlikely to be needed
that need repair. due to the rare use of inch threads on bicycles), a special
An alternative to using a tap or die is to use a thread or unusual drill bit size is needed. Inch size threads require
chaser. A thread chaser does not actually cut threads. “tap drills,” which are unique sizes that are numbered
It does realign threads that have been mangled. It is instead of described by dimension. After drilling out the
most often used on solid axles or the extractor threads hole use the appropriate tap for the new thread size.
in crank arms.
The least expensive way to repair a thread is with a
thread file. The thread file is best when there is just a small REMOVAL OF DIFFICULT
ding in a thread. Thread files can be used on mangled
external threads. Available from various bicycle tool and
NUTS AND BOLTS
To remove a stubborn nut or bolt first use a pene-
general tool suppliers, thread files come in both inch and trating oil and allow to soak for a few minutes. Then use
metric pitches. After matching the pitch on the file to the the best-fitting tool possible. If it is a screwdriver, apply
pitch of the thread being repaired, the file is then stroked heavy, downward force while turning the screw. If a screw
in the direction of the thread angle, while the item being or bolt head is deformed in the attempt to remove it, try
repaired is slowly rotated (see figure 1.8). vise grips locked securely on the head. If vise grips fail,
use a small saw (Dremel or rotary tool) to cut a slot in
the head to fit a slotted screwdriver. Another alternative
is to file flats on the side of the bolt or nut head to fit an
open-end wrench. If all of the above fail, the next option
is to drill a hole in the bolt or screw between one-half and
three-quarters of the bolt diameter and then hammer in
a screw extractor to turn out the bolt. The screw extrac-
tor is the first option if the screw or bolt head shears
off. The last resort is to carefully drill the bolt out with
1.8 To use a thread file, match the file pitch to the the tap drill that is the appropriate size for the existing
thread pitch, then stroke the file at the angle of the thread diameter. The method for determining the correct
thread while rotating the threaded item.
size for the drill bit is covered in the preceding section,
Stripped threads can sometimes be repaired just by
REPAIR OF DAMAGED THREADS. Then chase the threads
chasing them with the appropriate tap, die, or thread
out with a tap.
chaser. If the thread still does not hold after this repair,
To remove a stripped nut, screw, or bolt that rotates
repair options include use of Loctite 277 or RC680, drilling
without removing, first use penetrating oil. If possible,
the damaged thread out to a larger diameter and re-tapping
grab the nut, screw, or bolt with a vise grip to pull up while
to use a new size, or replacing the damaged part. Using
unthreading. Another alternative is to insert something like
Loctite is a solution only when there is no further need to
a screwdriver underneath the nut or bolt head and apply
remove the part. Converting to a larger diameter thread
leverage while unthreading. The last alternative is to use
may be limited by available material or parts. Replacing
a saw to cut off the nut, screw, or bolt head.
the damaged part has no disadvantage, except cost or
limitations of availability.
To repair a stripped thread by going to the next larger
diameter, first drill out the old threads to the appropriate
size for the tap that will create the new thread. When
drilling to tap, the use of a larger bit than recommended
1–6
PRESS FITS surfaces so that they will be free of lubrication, corrosion,

and dirt; and treatment with Loctite 222 if preventing
corrosion is a concern.
DEFINITION AND IDENTIFICATION To install press-fit components, a special pressing
tool is often required (see the section of the book that
OF PRESS-FIT TOLERANCES applies to the particular component in question). In the
A press fit occurs when one part is inserted into absence of a proper tool, sometimes a vise can be used,
another with pressure and is held together by the friction and if that is not suitable, a hammer may be used. In
between the mating surfaces. either case, pay particular attention to the alignment of
A common press fit is the interference type. With an the parts as they go in. With a hammer, use a block of
interference type, the fit is accomplished when a cylin- wood or a plastic hammer to protect the components
drical shape is pressed into a smaller hole. The tolerance from damage. With a vise, similar types of protection
may also be required.
between the two parts is generally in the range of .1–.3mm
Proper installation of tapered-press fits simply
(.004–.012"). Examples of interference press fits include:
involves pressing the part in hard enough so that it will
Headset races pressed into the head tube hold. Preparation to install tapered-press fits includes an
Headset race pressed onto the fork examination to determine that the length of engagement
Dustcaps pressed into hub shells and pedals is acceptable and cleaning the mating surfaces so that they
Bottom-bracket bearing cartridges pressed into a will be free of lubricants, corrosion, and dirt.
bottom-bracket shell For more information and diagrams concerning
Bearing cups pressed into hub shells and pedals tapered press fits see the section of this book regarding
Cartridge bearings pressed into bottom brackets crank arms (page 20-1).
and hubs When press fits slip together with little or no effort,
Cartridge bearings pressed into pedals Loctite compounds may be used to improve the fit. If the
fit requires only mild force to install, it will probably creak
Friction or slip under operating conditions, or moisture may pen-
Headset race
30.2mm etrate and cause corrosion, then the use of Loctite RC680
would be appropriate in most cases. When installing
30.2mm
30.0mm
sealed cartridge bearings (hubs, bottom brackets, and
pedals) Loctite 242 is preferred, so that removal will
30.0mm
Cutaway not be too difficult. If a press-fit part slips right in with
head tube no effort, but does not jiggle about once installed, then
Loctite RC680 is required in all cases except for sealed
cartridge bearings. Sealed cartridge bearing installation
requires Loctite 242, usually. If Loctite RC680 is used to
Pressure improve a marginal press fit, the fit should be considered
as good as new, except that removal and reinstallation
1.9 These cross-sections show a properly sized headset would require re-application of Loctite. If the press-fit
race before installation into a head tube, and again after part is loose and jiggling after installation, it is best to
the head tube has deflected to accommodate the press find a better fitting part. If a better fitting part is not
fit.
available, Loctite RC680 is recommended. Effectiveness
Another type of press fit is the tapered press fit. In
may be limited by how loose the parts are initially and by
this case the interior component is tapered so that the
the fact that with press fitting there is no way to ensure
farther it is pressed in, the tighter it becomes. Examples
proper alignment of the parts.
of this fit include:
Loctite 660 (Quick Metal) is a thick paste that will
Cotter pins on cotter-type crank arms
provide security when the internal part is up to 1mm
Taper-fit crank arms fit on a tapered spindle
smaller in diameter than the external part. No precision
alignment of the parts is assured, but loose pieces that can-
PREPARATION AND ASSEMBLY not be repaired in any other way may benefit from Quick
OF PRESS FITS Metal. A good example would be when the head tube on
a Murray or Huffy juvenile bike becomes flared and the
Preparation to install a press fit should include iden-
headset parts are loose and jiggling. Because these bikes
tifying that the internal component is a suitable amount
larger than the external component; cleaning the mating
1–7
use non-standard oversized headset dimensions, there are Grease failure could come at any time. Factory
no practical alternatives for repair except the use of Loctite original greases are often of the lowest quality and also
660 (Quick Metal). are applied in very limited or erratic quantities. Frames
Expanded Loctite
are often inadequately cleaned at the factory, so bot-
Headset race tom-bracket and headset grease is often contaminated
30.05mm with abrasives even before the bike has been ridden. For
30.2mm
these reasons it is difficult to project the normal time or
30.0mm miles between bearing overhauls. As a soft rule of thumb,
30.0mm 2,000–3,000 miles or two to three years of generally fair-
Cutaway weather riding should make a bike ready for an overhaul.
head tube The best method to determine whether grease is overdue
for replacement is inspection. See table 1-2 below for
causes and evidence of grease failure.
The container and applicator of grease is as important
Pressure as the quality. Open tubs invite contamination; appli-
cation from open tubs is messy. Grease is best used in
1.10 The headset race and head tube here do not have squeeze tubes or grease guns.
enough dimensional difference to create enough fric-
tion; when Loctite RC680 is added before installation, it Whether greasing a thread, insertion, or bearing, an
expands and creates more pressure (and therefore more ample quantity of grease will reduce likelihood of drying
friction). and moisture contamination. Wipe excesses away when
assembly is complete.
Grease should be treated like any other unnatural
substance that can penetrate the skin. Minimize exposure
LUBRICANTS or avoid it entirely by wearing disposable Nitrile gloves.
Clean hands when exposure is over.
GREASE OILS
Not all greases are suitable for bicycle use. Bicycle bear-
Oil is used on threads, derailleur pivots, brake pivots,
ings operate in a relatively low temperature range, so grease
lever pivots, the chain, inside freewheels, and inside inter-
designed for automotive use often does not become effective
at bicycle operating temperatures. Instead, use one of the nally geared multispeed hubs.
many bicycle-specific greases. There are also suspension- Not all oils are equally suitable for bicycle use. The
specific greases, supplied by suspension manufacturers oil needs to be resistant to accumulating grit, durable
and others. Grease manufacturers often make important- to exposure to the elements, and light enough to pen-
sounding claims about the superior lubricating properties etrate into tight areas. These characteristics outweigh
of their products, but for the average cyclist it would be the significance of any more technical considerations,
much more useful to know which grease lasts longest or such as the type of oil base or whether Teflon is part
resists wash-out from water exposure best. Unfortunately, of the formula.
only experience provides this information.
GREASE FAILURE (table 1-2)

Cause of grease failure Evidence of grease failure
Age: This is one of the most likely reasons for grease Lack of grease, grease absent from ball path, grease
to fail, particularly on bikes that see little use. caked like half-dry mud.
Internal contamination: This other highly likely cause Light-colored greases turned dark, translucent
of grease failure is caused by particles worn from the greases turned darker and opaque.
bearing surfaces.
Moisture contamination: This cause is only likely whenReddish rust color in grease, rust on bearing parts,
the bike is ridden extensively in wet conditions. water droplets in grease or bearing area. Colored
greases turn a lighter shade.
Dirt contamination: This cause of grease failure is Gritty feeling like sand in the grease, not the same
most likely if contaminated grease that has oozed out as the rough feeling from a tight bearing.
of the bearing is wiped off the wrong way.
1–8
Many of the popular bicycle-lubricant brands are citrus-based solvents leave an oily film and are not suitable
available in multiple formulas, which are specified for as a last preparation before assembling a press fit. Dry-
use in wet or dry conditions. ing time (of mineral spirits or biodegradable solvents) in
Popular oils that are specifically unsuitable for most confined areas such as inside chains, freewheels, derailleur,
bicycle applications include: and brake pivots, is quite slow and generally is aided by
WD40 blowing with compressed air. If using a biodegradable
Sewing machine or gun oil solvent, remember that once it is contaminated with oil or
3-in-1 oil grease it may no longer be environmentally friendly.
Motor oil For certain uses, a more heavy-duty solvent (such as
Method of application is very important with oils. denatured alcohol or acetone) is needed. Use denatured
Aerosols are environmentally unfriendly and usually alcohol when an oil-free surface is required (press fits,
braking surfaces). Use acetone on extremely stubborn
lead to excessive application. The only exception to the
dry grease or to remove adhesive residues. Both acetone
problem of excessive application is with spray lubri-
and alcohol are highly flammable and volatile, so do
cants that are designed to “dry” in a matter of minutes
not use them around flames or high heat sources (no
after application, but these may be the worst offenders
smoking). Avoid skin and eye exposure, and keep fumes
environmentally. In general, oils used in external appli- to a minimum by disposing of soaked rags promptly
cations should be used sparingly to avoid dripping and in a fire-safe, self-closing, metal bucket. Alcohol is far
dirt accumulation, and excesses should always be wiped more environmentally friendly than acetone. There
off immediately. Overall, the best form of application is are now biodegradable-type solvents that perform the
from drip applicators. These are economical to use as well, same function as these two compounds, such as White
because waste is limited. Lightning Clean Streak.
In addition to their value as lubrication, oils are also Wax or polish is used to improve the appearance of
used to facilitate disassembling frozen threaded compo- paint jobs and to protect them. Most automotive waxes
nents. Special penetrating oils perform this function best. are suitable for bicycles. Wax should be applied to clean
Some bicycle oils that are very light weight are somewhat surfaces with light rubbing. After it dries it should be wiped
effective for penetration. off with a soft cloth. Check the label of any automotive
Manufacturers of internally geared hubs recommend product before using it on the painted surface of a bicycle.
special oils that are generally unsuitable for use elsewhere Test products of uncertain suitability on the bottom of
on the bike. Sturmey Archer Cycle Oil is one of these, but the bottom-bracket shell.
a suitable replacement would be 10-weight motor oil.
Oil should be treated like any other unnatural sub-
stance that can penetrate the skin. Minimize exposure or
avoid it entirely by wearing disposable Nitrile gloves. Clean
hands when exposure is over.
TOOLS
This section covers the proper use of common tools
that are not unique to bicycle mechanics. This section also
covers the use of the bicycle repair stand. In the appendix
here is a comprehensive list of common tools (page 39-15)
CLEANSERS AND POLISHES and bicycle-specific tools (page 39-3). The types of tools
One of the cleansers needed for proper bicycle clean- and concepts covered in this section are as follows:
ing is an ammonia and water solution for cleaning dirt and Box-end and open-end wrenches
removing greasy fingerprints. If using a household cleanser Hex and Torx wrenches
such as 409, Fantastik, or Top Job, they will leave a soapy Ratchet drives and sockets
film that will need rinsing. Window-cleaning compounds Torque wrenches
clean as well and do not leave a film behind. Adjustable wrenches
For cleaning bearings, drive train components, and any Pliers and vise grips
other heavily greased or oily components, choose between Screwdrivers
either mineral spirits or non-toxic biodegradable solvents
Utilizing mechanical advantage
(such as citrus-based solvents). These are the environ-
Hammers
mentally correct alternative to gasoline and kerosene. If
Hacksaws
using mineral spirits, avoid excess contact with skin, eyes,
and lungs by wearing rubber gloves, safety goggles, and Files
by working in a well-ventilated area. Mineral spirits and Grinder
1–9
Drilling in non-interchangeable metric and inch sizes. Metric sizes
Taps are the most common, but inch sizes are also found on
Using repair stands bicycles. Hex wrenches are named by the dimension
from one flat to the opposite flat. Torx wrenches are not
BOX-END AND described by a dimension, but by a code.
Hex wrenches are hexagonally shaped and may be
OPEN-END WRENCHES called Allen wrenches, hex bits, or hex keys. Because socket
Always use the smallest wrench that will fit. A 16mm wrenches and box wrenches may also be six-sided, the hex-
cone wrench seems to fit on a hub cone with 15mm flats, wrench designation can cause confusion. Therefore, this
but a 15mm wrench is the smallest that will fit. It may be manual uses the term hex key or hex bit when referring to
possible to turn a 15mm cone with a 16mm wrench, but a six-sided wrench that fits into a bolt head or nut.
it is likely to damage the nut and the wrench. Torx wrenches are shaped like six-point stars. Because
Box- and open-end wrenches are non-adjustable of this, they are sometimes called star-drivers. Torx is the
wrenches that are made in specific sizes that are sup- name used in this manual. Since they cannot be identified
posed to closely match the fittings they will be used on. by dimension, these wrenches typically are stamped with a
They come in inch and metric sizes. Metric sizes are most code starting with a T, such as T10, T15, T20, etc.
common for bicycles. Certain inch and metric sizes are Using an internally engaging wrench that is undersized
interchangeable in one direction only (because the sub- to the fitting can easily cause damage to the fitting, so always
stitute is only slightly over-sized). These are: start with an obviously over-sized wrench and work down
13mm wrench on 1/2" fitting by single-size increments until the best-fitting wrench is
14mm wrench on 9/16" fitting found. This is the opposite of externally fitting wrenches,
16mm wrench on 5/8" fitting such as open-end and box-end wrenches, where the best fit
Open-end wrenches contact the fitting at only two is the smallest wrench that will engage the fitting.
points, making them inclined to round off nuts, especially Because these internally fitting wrenches have a much
if they are held in poor alignment to the fitting. Their smaller surface area of contact to the bolt or nut than an
advantage is access from the side of the fitting when access externally fitting wrench, like an open-end or box-end
from the end is difficult. They also generally allow a more wrench, they tend to wear out more quickly. These types
flush fit against surfaces adjacent to the fitting, so are well of wrenches should be replaced at the first sign the cor-
suited to low-profile nuts and bolt heads. ners are rounding.
Box-end wrenches enclose the fitting and contact
it at six points, reducing the likelihood of rounding the
fitting under heavy load or poor alignment and fit. Their
RATCHET DRIVES AND SOCKETS
Ratchet drives enable working faster because they do
limitation is with low-profile fittings, or fittings with no
not require removal of the wrench on the return stroke.
access from the end. Box-end wrenches come in six-point
Good applications of a socket and ratchet drive include
and twelve-point configurations. The six-point configu-
crank-arm bolts, brake-mounting nuts, axle nuts, and seat-
ration is more durable and has better purchase (surface
post binder nuts.
engagement), but twelve-point wrenches are quicker to
get positioned on the fitting.
1.12 Six-point socket (left) and twelve-point socket

(right).
1.11 Open-end wrench on top, box-end wrench below. Socket wrenches (which can be fitted to a ratchet
drive, torque wrench, or socket driver or may come pre-
HEX AND TORX WRENCHES fixed on certain spanners) are similar in their advantages
to box-end wrenches but are even more useful when there
Hex wrenches and Torx wrenches insert into a
socket in the bolt head or nut. Hex wrenches are made
1 – 10
is limited or no side access to the fitting, such as with These formulas for converting kgf-cm and Nm
crank-arm-mounting bolts. contain generously rounded conversion factors for ease
There is a tool design called a crow-foot that is of calculation. They should be accurate enough for the
used in a similar way to a socket. The crow-foot is precision required in bicycle mechanics, but the appendix
an open-end wrench that fits on a socket driver. This contains more precise formulas and tables (page 39-2).
allows use of the torque wrench in circumstances that Torque wrenches are tools used to measure torque while
a socket will not fit. Certain bicycle-tool manufacturers tightening a fitting. They come in two varieties, deflection
make unique crow-foot adapters for bicycle fittings, and beam and preset. There are advantages to each variety.
there are applications for non-bicycle-specific crow-foot The beam variety has a bar that swings across a scale
tools, as well. as force is applied. One advantage is that it is easy to know
Bit sockets fit a bolt or nut with an internal wrench fit- when calibration is needed, and they are easy to calibrate.
ting. Bit sockets used on bicycles are either hex-bit sockets If the needle fails to return to “0,” bend the bar until it
or Torx-bit sockets. Using bit sockets enables the use of points to “0.” This variety is less expensive and is suffi-
a torque wrench on fittings that would otherwise need to ciently accurate.
be tightened by subjective feel. The preset type has a cylinder that is twisted until
the desired torque is set. The handle swivels a few
TORQUE WRENCHES degrees beyond the head when that setting is achieved.
Use your eyes to detect the swivel. Mechanics that rely
A torque wrench allows the mechanic to secure a on hearing or feeling the swivel often overshoot the
fitting to a precise value called a torque value. Torque is desired torque, sometimes destroying equipment in the
a measurement of a force’s tendency to produce torsion process. The preset torque wrench is more difficult
and rotation about an axis, used most often in bicycle to calibrate, but it has an advantage in that it has a
mechanics to describe the tightness of a threaded fitting. ratcheting drive. Another advantage of this type is that
It is measured most often in ft-lbs (foot pounds), in-lbs the mechanic doesn’t have to split attention between
(inch pounds), and Nm (Newton meters). watching the alignment of the wrench and the position
A torque of 1ft-lb is a pound of force on a lever of the needle on the scale. It is difficult to know when
one foot long. If the lever were six inches long, it would the preset type is out of adjustment (other than experi-
require two pounds of pressure to apply 1ft-lb of torque. encing mechanical failures), and it must be sent back to
A torque of 1in-lb is one pound of force on a one- the supplier/manufacturer for calibration.
inch-long lever. If the lever was six inches long it would Using torque wrenches is strongly recommended.
require two pounds of force to apply 12in-lbs of torque All mechanics have trouble torquing things correctly by
(12in-lbs ÷ 6" = 2lbs). feel. Unfortunately, we learn correct torque from the
All the torques in this book are in in-lbs. For some of negative feedback of numerous failures. All mechanics
the larger values a torque wrench calibrated in ft-lbs may be can benefit from the use of a torque wrench. When a
needed. It will be necessary to convert. At other times, it mechanic’s feel is off, either the part fails as it is tightened
will be necessary to convert manufacturers’ recommended (stripped threads or bolt head), or it comes apart while
torques in ft-lbs to in-lbs to use an in-lb wrench. Use the the bike is being ridden.
following formulas. In a few cases, the design of a fitting does not allow
in-lbs ÷ 12 = ft-lbs the use of a socket that fits on a torque wrench. For this
ft-lbs × 12 = in-lbs reason, there is one more torque designation used in this
Asian and European manufacturers often provide book. After some in-lb notations there is another notation
torque in Nm. Many torque wrenches are calibrated in in parenthesis. This second notation is the amount of load
Nm in addition to in-lbs or ft-lbs. If you prefer to work to place on the end of a common tool to achieve the correct
with in-lbs or ft-lbs, use the following formulas. torque. For example, the torque for a hub locknut might be
Nm × .74 = ft-lbs shown as 180in-lbs (45lbs@4"). The notation (45lbs@4")
Nm × 8.9 = in-lbs means apply 45 pounds of force at a leverage length of 4
Occasionally manufacturers provide recommended inches. The leverage length is based on the common tool
torques in kgf-cm (kilograms force per centimeter), which length used for the job. If there is a wide range of tool
are found on very few torque wrenches. In this case, convert lengths commonly used for doing a job, then the leverage
kgf-cm to in-lbs or ft-lbs. Use the following formulas. length will be based on one of the shorter tools available.
kgf-cm ÷ 1.15 = in-lbs If the tool is longer, either recalculate the load or “choke
kgf-cm ÷ 13.8 = ft-lbs up” on the lever to the stated length.
1 – 11
Even if you use torque wrenches regularly, it will be
necessary to rely on feel for certain items. The best way
SCREWDRIVERS
Always use the largest screwdriver that will insert fully
to develop the correct feel for those items that a torque into the slot of the screw. This applies equally to slotted
wrench cannot be used for is to feel the torqued item with screwdrivers and Phillips screwdrivers. Maintain the axis
a regular wrench after every time a torque wrench has been of the screwdriver in line with the axis of the screw.
used. Since the recommended torques in this manual are
never the absolute maximum that a fitting can withstand,
it is easy to check for the correct feel by advancing the MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE
regular wrench no more than a few degrees past the point With two opposing levers, the shortest lever deter-
reached by the torque wrench. mines the limit of force that can be applied. Increased
mechanical advantage can be achieved by lengthening
leverage (by using a longer tool or adding a cheater bar to a
ADJUSTABLE WRENCHES tool). Increased mechanical advantage can also be achieved
Adjustable wrenches should be used only when no by changing the angle between opposing levers. The worst
pre-fit wrench is suitable or available. Always make sure mechanical advantage is with levers 180° apart, and the
that the adjustable wrench is well snugged before applying best is when the levers are close to 0° apart (allowing
force. It is commonly thought that adjustable wrenches are clearance for hands and tools).
more likely to damage fittings than open-end wrenches.
If fact, a properly set adjustable wrench is more snug on
a nut or bolt head than most fixed-dimension open-end
wrenches. The poor reputation of adjustable wrenches is
due to sloppy use, not limitations of the design.
1.14 Two wrenches arranged for poor mechanical
Position the wrench so that when the wrench rotates, advantage.
the tip of the adjustable jaw follows the tip of the fixed
jaw through the rotation. Rotating the adjustable wrench
in this direction is critical because experience shows that
the adjustable jaw is less likely to break.
1.15 Two wrenches arranged for good mechanical

advantage.
Increased mechanical advantage on a screwdriver can
be achieved by wrapping the handle with a rag to increase
the diameter. Apply increased force into the screw to pre-
vent the slot from stripping. The tendency, when a screw
head is about to strip out, is for the screwdriver to rise up
out of the screw head. By pressing firmly down on the
1.13 Direction to apply force with an adjustable screwdriver, it will be kept fully engaged with the screw head.
wrench. This reduces the chance of the stripping occurring because
more material engages the tip of the screwdriver.
PLIERS AND VISE GRIPS Body positioning is also important to mechanical
advantage. You have more control and power when your
Pliers are used for grasping and holding, not for turn-
hands are near the middle of your torso, rather than at
ing nuts and bolts, unless the flats are already distorted so
waist level or below, or shoulder level or above. Also, when
that a pre-fit or adjustable wrench cannot be used. Vise
working two wrenches in opposition, pushing on one and
grips are locking pliers that have a much stronger grasp
pulling on the other works better than pushing on both
than regular pliers. They are used to hold things firmly,
or pulling on both.
such as when using the grinder on small pieces, and may
be used on nuts and bolts when the wrench flats are
already destroyed. HAMMERS
Hammers are used to apply force when removing
press-fit items and to install pressed items when there
is no specialized tool. Before using a metal hammer,
1 – 12
always try a soft hammer first. Soft hammers are usually when filing. A file card (a special wire brush) is used to
made of plastic or rubber. When using a metal hammer, clean filings from between the teeth of the file when the
it should be a 12-ounce ball peen, not a claw hammer. build-up reduces the effectiveness of the file.
Claw hammers have the wrong weight, balance, and head
shape. Wear eye protection when using a metal hammer
to hit anything metal. GRINDER
The grinder is used when a file would be too time
consuming and when there is less need for precision. Only
HACKSAWS steel can be ground on the grinder; do not grind aluminum.
Hacksaws are generally used for cutting fork columns Grinding aluminum causes the aluminum to melt, filling
(steerer tubes) to length, removing locks and chains with the pores of the grinding wheel with aluminum, which
lost combinations and keys, and shortening bolts and axles renders the wheel useless. Wear eye protection at all times
that are too long. For most uses, a blade of 32 teeth per with the grinder. Hold small objects firmly with a vise grip
inch is sufficient. Install toothed blades with the teeth to prevent them from being wrenched from your hand.
pointing away from the handle and apply force on the Reduce heat build-up (which occurs very rapidly with no
pushing stroke. Cutting with a hacksaw generates a lot visible change in the metal) by grinding with little pressure,
of heat, so be careful when touching items that have just frequent rests, and periodic dips in a water bath to cool
been cut. Metal fragments created by hacksawing can easily
the item. Never apply pressure to the side of a grinding
get in your eye, so always wear eye protection. Hacksaw
wheel—it will break. When using a new wheel, give it a
blades wear out easily. Replace them regularly.
hand spin before turning it on to make sure it does not
wobble side-to-side, which could cause it to shatter at
FILES high speeds. If the grinder loses its flat edge, or becomes
Files are used for smoothing a metal surface, particu- clogged with aluminum, it can be improved with a tool
larly after using a hacksaw or grinder, and they are used to called a grinding wheel dresser, which is simply held
alter the fit of parts that are too large. Flat files should be against the grinding wheel while it is spinning.
10–12" long and come in two different cuts: bastard and
mill-bastard. Bastard files are coarse files with a crisscross
cut that are used for removing large amounts of metal DRILLING
quickly. They often leave a rough finish. Mill-bastard files Drilling some steels used in bicycle frames and com-
have a finer cut with no crisscross and are used when little ponents requires the highest grade bits available. These
material is to be removed. They leave a smoother finish will generally be described as “carbide.”
than the bastard file. For accuracy, start the hole by making a prick mark
with a center punch.
Heat generated by drilling hardens the material being
drilled, which dulls the bit and lengthens the job. To pre-
vent heat build-up, drill holes in stages, use moderate speed
and pressure, and always use cutting oil. Drill larger holes
by starting with a smaller bit first. For example, a 6mm
hole might be drilled with a 2mm bit followed by a 4mm
bit, and then finally a 6mm bit. This is called drilling in
“stages.” Moderate the speed and pressure. A variable-
speed drill is recommended. Surprisingly, a lower speed will
often allow faster progress. Cutting oil should be flooded
1.16 Bastard file (top) and mill-bastard file (bottom). into the hole regularly because it not only lubricates, it also
Round files, or rat-tail files, also come in both cuts cools the metal being drilled. Only a continuous flow of
and are used for cleaning inside tubing or inside a hole, cool oil will accomplish this.
particularly after cutting a fork steerer tube. For coarse Most jobs will require metric drills. Half millimeter
work, use a 10–12" bastard cut. For fine work, use a increments from 1mm through 9.5mm should be ade-
chainsaw file or jeweler’s file. A small triangular file is quate, with an additional 4.2mm bit for drilling a hole for
used for precision inside corners. a 5mm tap. Inch-sized drills are suitable in many cases,
With all files, the power stroke is on the push. but metric sizes are preferable.
Applying pressure on the return stroke dulls the file. Files
may be used on all types of metal. Wear eye protection
1 – 13
Drill bits dull quickly. Although it is possible to The clamp should never be placed on top of decals
sharpen them, it is an advanced technique, and it is more that are not under a clear coat of paint. If you cannot tell
economical to simply replace them. whether the decals are under clear coat, do not clamp on the
decal! Look closely for frame fittings, cables, or cable
TAPS housings. These can all be easily damaged by the clamp
(see figure 1.17). Clamping on a frame fitting, such as a cable-
When using a tap in existing threads, first verify it is housing stop or bottle-cage fitting, will destroy the frame!
the correct diameter and pitch to match the existing thread.
When tapping in a hole without existing threads, first verify Right side of bike should face out
Clamp handle should point to right
the hole is the correct diameter to accept the tap.
Taps break easily and then are almost impossible to
remove, so the following precautions should always be
observed. Always flood the hole with cutting oil. Repeated Avoid frame fittings
application of fresh cutting oil keeps the material that is
being tapped cool and keeps it from hardening. When Set clamp so it will close
tapping existing threads, always tap from the end of the with two-finger pressure
hole that has the threads in best condition to ensure good
alignment. Never force a tap—it will break. When the cut-
ting gets tough, advance the tap no more than one-quarter
turn further, then back it out about one-half turn. Turn
the tap in again until it gets tough again, and repeat the
process. This procedure clears the cuttings away from the
cutting edge of the tap so it does not jam.
General-purpose cutting oil is suitable for tapping in
steel but specifically formulated cutting oil should be used
when tapping aluminum, or total thread failure may occur.
Titanium requires special oil, as well. Canola oil from the Avoid decals
grocery store is suitable for use when cutting titanium.
Tapping aluminum is much more difficult than tapping
steel and requires more care. Make sure the tap starts cleanly
in existing threads because it is easy to start the thread in
a new spot, which creates a double thread, which is much
weaker. Dull taps are far more likely to tear through, rather
than cut through, aluminum. This is called galling. To pre-
vent galling, never use a dull tap, especially on aluminum.
USING REPAIR STANDS 1.17 This bike is properly positioned in a Park stand.
However, there are many times this position is not an
Depending on the clamp used and obstacles on the option due to the locations of decals or frame fittings
frame tubes, the clamp should be placed (in descending or due to delicate frame materials.
order of priority): onto the seat tube, the seat post, or the top Place the bike in the stand so that the right side faces
tube. The location on the seat tube provides the best stabil- away from the stand with the bike in an upright posi-
ity, but there are many cases when it is not an option. tion (see figure 1.18). With Park-brand stands, position
Lightweight steel, aluminum, and carbon-fiber frame the clamp with the handle on the right (as you face the
tubes are easily damaged by the clamp. Use extreme caution stand) before attaching the bike. Using a Park stand this
or avoid clamping these materials! Always set the clamp for way allows the handle to be accessed through the main
the minimum force required to securely hold the frame in triangle. If the clamp is positioned on the seat tube with
place; this helps prevent crushing a frame tube. If you use the handle on the left, your hand may get painfully trapped
no more than two fingers to push on the lever when clos- between the clamp handle and the seat stay when the
ing the clamp, damaging a tube is unlikely. When possible, clamp is released.
clamp onto the portion of the seat tube that is supported Once the bike is correctly mounted, use all the
by the insertion of the seat post. adjustments built into the stand to put the bike in a
convenient position.
1 – 14
3
1
1.18 These are the three positions in which the Park

stand can be clamped. The positions are numbered in
order of preference. However, there are many times
the first and third positions are not an option due to the
locations of decals or frame fittings or due to delicate
frame materials.
1 – 15
2 – TAPPING BOTTOM-BRACKET-SHELL THREADS
1
2
3
GENERAL INFORMATION 2–1

TERMINOLOGY 2–1
PREREQUISITES 2–1
INDICATIONS 2–1
TOOL CHOICES 2–2
TIME AND DIFFICULTY 2–2
COMPLICATIONS 2–2
CARE OF BOTTOM-BRACKET TAPS 2–3
BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING PROCEDURE 2–3
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Crank-arm removal and installation

This section is about using bottom-bracket taps to In order to tap the bottom-bracket shell, it is necessary
improve the thread condition in a bottom-bracket shell. to remove the bottom bracket, which starts with crank-arm
removal. At the completion of the job it is necessary to
reinstall the crank arms.
Bottom-bracket overhaul
GENERAL INFORMATION In order to access the threads, it is necessary to remove
the bottom bracket. At the completion of the job it is
TERMINOLOGY necessary to install and adjust the bottom bracket. These
procedures are covered in the chapter ADJUSTABLE-CUP
Bottom-bracket shell: The part of the frame that
houses the bearings that the crank arms rotate around. BOTTOM BRACKETS.
Bottom-bracket tap: A tool used to chase the ex-
isting threads in a bottom-bracket shell.
Chasing: Using a tap to improve the condition of
INDICATIONS
existing threads. Symptoms indicating need for tapping
Pilot: A part of a bottom-bracket tap that is used to bottom-bracket-shell threads
align the left and right taps to each other so that they will The usual reason for tapping bottom-bracket threads
cut on a common axis. A pilot consists of a pilot shaft is the resistance encountered when removing or installing
and a pilot hole. the bottom-bracket cups or cartridge bottom-bracket
Tapping: In the broad sense, tapping is creating new mounting rings. This resistance can be caused by several
threads. With regard to bottom brackets, the term “tap- things. New bikes often have poorly cut bottom-bracket-
ping” is used to signify the improvement of the condition shell threads, or good threads that are fouled with paint.
of existing threads (chasing). Used bikes often have rust in the threads. Another possible
cause of the resistance could be that a cup or mounting
ring has been cross-threaded.
PREREQUISITES This resistance to unthreading is aggravating to the
Usually the need for tapping the bottom-bracket mechanic during the removal of parts; however, during
shell is discovered in the course of doing another job, installation of parts, this extra resistance will not just be
such as installing or overhauling a bottom bracket. In this aggravating, it can cause three problems.
case, the condition of a bare bottom-bracket shell already The first problem that this extra resistance can cause
exists, and the only prerequisite required for the job is an is that it can make it difficult to tell whether the thread is
understanding of bottom-bracket thread types and direc- starting correctly, possibly leading to cross-threading and
tions. The additional prerequisites listed are only applicable further thread damage.
in the case that it is your intent to tap the bottom-bracket The second problem that this extra resistance can
threads before you have removed the bottom bracket. cause is when attempting to adjust an adjustable-cup bot-
Understanding bottom-bracket-thread types tom bracket, difficulty in rotating the adjustable cup can
There are several types of bottom-bracket threads. Bot- make it almost impossible to find a good starting point for
tom-bracket taps are not used to change from one thread the adjustment, leading to a prolonged and more difficult
type to another but to improve the condition of existing adjustment procedure.
threads. For this reason, it is vital to be sure of the existing The third problem that might be encountered when
thread type in the bottom-bracket shell. The following bot- this type of resistance is being experienced is that poor
tom-bracket-tapping procedure provides an opportunity to thread condition can lead to failure of the threads on alu-
identify the threads. For reference information on bottom- minum and plastic cups or aluminum and plastic mount-
bracket thread types, see table 9-2 (page 9-5). ing rings. This failure may occur during installation or
removal. If the factory installed an aluminum or plastic
2–1
part into a poorly threaded shell, then the failure may generally painted and does not rust, difficulty in threading
occur while the parts are being removed. Nothing can parts in would most likely be due to poor manufacture
be done to prevent this, but tapping should be done to and should be warrantable.
prevent future failures.
Aluminum
Preparation for shell facing Aluminum is a perfectly suitable material for tapping,
The only other reason to tap the bottom-bracket- but it presents some special concerns to the mechanic. First,
shell threads is that it is a necessary first step to facing the type of cutting oil used is critical. There are cutting oils made
the bottom-bracket shell; the reasons for facing a bottom- specifically for use on aluminum. Any cutting oil that is
bracket shell are given later in the next chapter. suitable will specify that it is for use on aluminum on the
container. Do not interpret words like “all-purpose” and
TOOL CHOICES “multi-purpose” to mean “includes aluminum.” Second, it is
critical that the taps be sharp. Aluminum has a higher tendency
The thread type of the bottom-bracket shell deter- than steel to gall (tear). Dull taps increase the likelihood of
mines what tool you will need. The list found in table 2–1 galling, to a degree that the threads in the bottom-bracket
covers all tools for the job. The preferred choices are in shell may be destroyed.
bold. A tool is preferred because of ease of use, quality,
versatility, and/or economy. Threads destroyed beyond repair
The most likely complication when tapping a bottom-
bracket shell is that threads may be damaged beyond repair.
TIME AND DIFFICULTY Since the next solution after thread chasing is a drastic one,
Tapping a bottom bracket in a bare frame is a 10- always attempt the repair by chasing first. Test for success
minute job of moderate difficulty. by torquing the bottom-bracket cups or retaining rings into
the shell to the recommended torque and see if further
COMPLICATIONS stripping occurs. If the recommended torque cannot be
achieved, the threads have stripped completely.
Titanium
Titanium has completely different metallurgical Unusual thread types
characteristics than steel or aluminum. It is necessary Only one brand of bottom-bracket tap (VAR)
for a tap to be designed in a dramatically different way makes taps available for every conventional thread type.
to be suitable for tapping titanium. Once a tap has been If you do not buy this brand, you will not be able to tap
designed to be suitable for titanium, it will no longer be all bikes. You should not buy this brand just to be able
suitable for other materials. Special taps for titanium are to tap all thread types, because several thread types are
available, but the cost is prohibitive. Since titanium is not very rare, and it could be financially unrewarding to buy
the tools to tap these threads. About 95% of bikes have
BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING TOOLS (table 2-1)
Tool Fits and considerations
Campagnolo 721 Piloted handles w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO taps, very expensive
Campagnolo 721/5-I Italian 36mm × 24tpi tap only for 721, two needed
Campagnolo 721/5-F French 35mm × 1mm tap only for 721, two needed
Cyclo 1042 1.37" × 24tpi double ended un-piloted chaser only
Hozan C402E 1.37" × 24 tpi un-piloted tap set
Hozan C402FS Un-piloted tap set, fits French and Swiss
Park BTS-1 Piloted tap handles w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO taps, includes facer also
Park 693 36mm × 24tpi Italian tap for BTS-1, two needed
Park 694 35mm × 1mm French tap for BTS-1, two needed
VAR 380/2/C Piloted tap handle set w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO taps
VAR 42IR 36mm × 24tpi Italian tap for 380/2/C, two needed
VAR 42FR 35mm × 1mm French tap for 380/2/C, two needed
VAR 42SL 35mm × 1mm Swiss left-hand tap for 380/2/C, one needed
United UB-TH/SET Piloted handles w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO taps, titanium compatible
2–2
BSC or ISO thread type, which are interchangeable. Using taps on chrome-plated bottom-bracket shells will
Most of the remaining 5% are Italian thread. This is as also dull them quickly. It can be done, but it is not advised.
far as it may be practical to be equipped with taps. Other Using taps to cut new threads in an unthreaded shell,
thread types are French, Swiss, and English Whitworth or to extend the length of existing threads, also dulls them
(1–3/8" × 26tpi). These are all no longer manufactured, quickly. These procedures can be done, but they are not
already rare, and getting rarer fast. what the taps are designed for and are strongly recom-
mended against.
Obstructions
It is possible that there will be obstructions inside
a bottom-bracket shell that will interfere with the in-
sertion of the taps. The most likely obstruction is a bolt
or fastener (rivet) that holds a cable guide to the bot-
BOTTOM-BRACKET-
tom of the bottom-bracket shell. If it is a bolt, remove
it. If the obstruction is some sort of pressed-in device
TAPPING PROCEDURE
1. [ ] See PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter for removal
or rivet, then it is possible that the pressed-in device of crank arms and ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM
or rivet will be destroyed if removed. If this happens BRACKETS chapter for removal of bottom
it may be necessary to do some creative mechanics to brackets, and remove crank arms and bot-
re-secure the cable guide. tom bracket if necessary.
Another possible obstruction is frame tubes pro- 2. [ ] Inspect any cups or mounting rings that
truding into the shell. This type of obstruction occurs were removed for thread identification and
note thread description here: _____________,
most commonly with lugged-frame construction. Use a
unless markings are inadequate.
round file or a small grinding stone on a rotary tool or die
grinder to remove this type of obstruction.
Difficult tapping 1.
37 x 24
Difficult tapping may be caused by dull taps, ex-
cessive material needing to be removed, poor technique,
or brass contamination in the threads. Brass has special
properties that cause it to create a lot of resistance when
being tapped. If brass is present on the bottom-bracket
threads it means that the manufacturer was sloppy during
the brazing process. 2.1 Inspect cup faces for any markings that might
The most important things to be conscious of when indicate the thread type. The 1.37 × 24 marks on this
tapping is difficult are 100% assurance of thread compatibility cup indicate it is a BSC thread.
and good technique. If tapping becomes difficult, then pull 3. [ ] Only if cup markings were inadequate, mea-
sure cup O.D. and pitch, then use table 9-2
the taps out immediately and check for obstructions and
(page 9-5) to determine nominal thread de-
brass in the threads. If these are not a problem, assume the scription and note here: ______________
taps are dull and do not continue without sharp taps. Bottom-bracket-shell threads are identified by taking
measurements in the bottom-bracket shell; however, it is
CARE OF BOTTOM-BRACKET TAPS only necessary to do this if steps #1, #2, and #3 do not
yield positive results. Usually all that is needed is I.D. and
Bottom-bracket taps are very expensive and eas-
ily damaged. Proper cutting technique is important to pitch. In the case that the pitch is 1mm and you are pre-
ensure good life, but that is not all. When storing taps, pared to tap French or Swiss bottom brackets, then you
make sure they are clean and coated with oil. The cut- must be able to identify whether the threads in the right
ting edges are easily chipped by light impact with other side of the shell are left-hand or right-hand. The technique
metal objects, so handle and store them in a way so this for this is described in the BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS
will not happen. On hooks on a pegboard is a good chapter in the section called THREADS (page 1–4).
way to store taps. 4. [ ] If no cups were removed from bottom brack-
et, measure shell I.D. and pitch inside shell,
Clean taps with a brush and solvent. Blowing them
then use table 9-2 (page 9-5) to determine
clean with compressed air is not damaging to the taps, but nominal thread description and note here:
it is dangerous. Coat the taps with a light oil after cleaning ______________
and drying to prevent rust.
2–3
The next step is to check whether the correct thread LEFT-HAND TAP RIGHT-HAND TAP
type is on the tap handles. With Campagnolo and Park First groove
taps, this is a simple matter of looking at the base of
the tap (Campagnolo) or in the flutes between the lands
(Park) for the thread description of the tap (see figure
2.2). Certain VAR taps may have either of two compli-
cations. VAR taps frequently have the thread description
on the end of the tap where the description becomes
hidden when the tap is installed. If this is the case, buy
an engraving tool and write the thread description in the Lands Flutes
flutes between the lands. The other complication is that 2.2 Inspect which side of the lands the first grooves
VAR is inclined to describe BSC or ISO thread types in start on to determine whether the tap is left-hand or
right-hand thread.
an unconventional fashion, with the diameter shown in
millimeters instead of inches. If a VAR tap is marked 7. [ ] Identify which tap is left-hand thread and
34.85 × 24, it is suitable for a BSC (1.37 × 24) or ISO which is right-hand thread.
(1.375 × 24) threaded bottom bracket. If tapping an ISO, BSC, or Swiss threaded bottom
5. [ ] Verify that taps on tap handles are correct bracket, it is vitally important to get the correct taps on
thread (replace with correct thread if not). the correct sides of the bottom-bracket shell. All others
Campagnolo and VAR taps use a threaded retaining are double right-hand thread, so the taps cannot be put
device to hold the tap on the handle. If the retaining device in wrong. With ISO, BSC, and Swiss thread types, the
is loose it will compromise the precision of the tapping. right side of the shell is a left-hand thread. The right side
Use a headset lockring spanner to secure the taps on the of the shell is right from the rider’s viewpoint while rid-
Campagnolo tool and a large adjustable wrench to secure ing the bike. It is the side that the chainrings, chain, and
the nuts on a VAR tool. derailleurs go on.
6. [ ] Secure both tap retention nuts (skip if using
Park tool). NOTE: VIEW FROM BOTTOM OF BIKE
If you are using a BSC, ISO, or Swiss tap set, the
Left side Right side
next step is to identify which tap is a left-hand thread
of bike of bike
and which is a right-hand thread. If the taps are the (drivetrain)
Campagnolo or the Park brand, there will be a RH or
LH notation as part of the thread description marked
on the tap. If you cannot find such a notation, or your
taps are VAR (which are not marked), then use the RH BSC, ISO, or Swiss LH
thread thread thread
following technique.
tap bottom-bracket shell tap
To identify whether an unmarked tap is a right-hand
or left-hand thread, hold the tap so the leading end
points up. Examine the top groove in any one of the
lands. If the top groove is deep on the left and tapers
off to the right, the tap is left-hand thread. If it is deep
on the right and tapers off to the left, it is a right-hand
thread. See figure 2.2.
2.3 If installing taps in a BSC, ISO, or Swiss threaded

bottom-bracket shell, the left-hand tap goes in the right
(drive-train) side of the bike, and the right-hand tap goes
in the left side of the bike.
2–4
NOTE: VIEW FROM BOTTOM OF BIKE One of the most important things when cutting metal
is the proper use of cutting oil. If cutting steel, the type of
Left side Right side oil is not important (high speed or low speed), but if cut-
of bike of bike ting aluminum it is critical to use oil labeled specifically for
(drivetrain)
use on aluminum. Use canola oil for titanium threads.
In addition to using the right oil, it is important to use
enough of it. Cutting oil does not simply lubricate. One
RH Italian or French thread RH of its most important functions is to absorb heat gen-
thread bottom-bracket shell thread erated by the cutting of the metal. If the heat builds up,
tap tap the metal being cut gets harder. Tools dull more quickly,
and the quality of the threads will be compromised. By
using ample quantities of cutting oil and re-applying it
repeatedly, heat will be kept to a minimum. There should
be a substantial quantity of oil on the floor when done
if enough was used. Use a drip rag if you are concerned
about this mess.
10. [ ] Add generous amounts of appropriate type
2.4 If installing taps in an Italian or French threaded of cutting oil to both taps.
bottom-bracket shell, since both taps are right-hand Sometimes all the threads in the shell will need chasing
thread, side of installation does not matter. and sometimes just some of them will. As long as there is
8. [ ] Place left-hand threaded tap (right-hand no significant resistance to threading the tap in, then no
threaded if both taps are right-hand) in right cutting is happening and no special technique is required
side of the bottom-bracket shell and place to advance the tap. No significant resistance is defined as when
the other tap into left side of shell. you can thread the tap in with one finger!
The whole point to using a piloted tap set is to 11. [ ] Thread each tap in as far as it will go with-
guarantee that threads on both sides of the shell have out encountering significant resistance.
a common axis. For this reason in the next step the Once significant resistance is encountered, then cut-
taps are started simultaneously. Do not start one tap and ting has begun and a technique called cut-and-clear is
then start the other. needed to advance the tap.
To cut-and-clear with the tap, advance it approxi-
mately one-quarter turn once resistance indicates the tap
has begun to cut. Then back the tap out about one-half
turn to clear the cut fragments away from the leading edges
of the cutters. Finally, advance the tap one-half turn to
be in position to start the cycle again.
1
2
3
BSC, Italian,
ISO, or French
or Swiss thread
thread
2.6 The cut-and-clear technique: cut (1), clear (2),

then advance (3).
2.5 To start the taps simultaneously, turn them in the
directions shown. 12. [ ] Once resistance is encountered use cut-and-
9. [ ] Start both taps simultaneously so that they clear technique to advance each tap, repeat-
just engage shell threads. edly flooding each tap with cutting oil (about
every 2–3 full revolutions of tap).
2–5
Depending on several circumstances, the point at
which the tapping is complete varies. With all types of taps,
the objective is to clean all of the threads. When the last
thread has been reached, it will feel as though the tap has
“hit the wall” (extremely high resistance to further tapping).
If Park brand taps are being used, and the bottom-bracket
shell is to be faced with a Park BTS-1 facing tool, then the
taps must end up fully inside the bottom-bracket shell. Due
to the short length of the Park taps, this objective should
always be easy to achieve. If a Campagnolo 725 bottom-
bracket-facing tool is to be used, then a thread depth of
17mm must be achieved. Since every tap has 5–7mm of
taper at the leading end, this means that 22–24mm of tap
must end up inside the shell. This objective may be dif-
ficult to achieve, because the 17mm of threading is more
than most bottom-bracket cups require and, consequently,
more threading than exists in many bottom-bracket shells.
To achieve this 17mm thread depth in some cases, new
threads must be cut. You must go past the point at which
the taps “hit the wall.” This requires considerable effort
on your part and will be hard on the taps as well.
13. [ ] Continue cut-and-clear technique and
repeated flooding with cutting oil with each
tap until both taps have reached the last
existing thread.
NOTE: In order to face the bottom-bracket shell
with a VAR tap set modified for facing, pro-
ceed at this point to MODIFIED VAR 380/2/C FACING
PROCEDURE (page 3-5).
NOTE: In order to face bottom-bracket shell with a
Park BTS-1, proceed at this point to PARK BTS-1
FACING PROCEDURE (page 3-3).
14. [ ] If taps are unevenly engaged, unthread one
until taps are evenly engaged.
15. [ ] Unthread both taps simultaneously until
they both will pull out, then pull taps out of
bottom-bracket shell together.
16. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket threads with tooth-
brush and solvent.
17. [ ] Clean outside of bottom-bracket shell and
rest of frame as necessary.
18. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket taps.
19. [ ] Use appropriate procedures/worksheets to
install bottom bracket and crank arms as nec-
essary, unless shell facing will be done next.
2–6
3 – FACING THE BOTTOM-BRACKET SHELL
Unfaced
50% faced
Faced
100% faced

TERMINOLOGY 3–1
INDICATIONS 3–1
TOOL CHOICES 3–1
COMPLICATIONS 3–2
CARE OF FACING TOOLS 3–3
PARK BTS-1 FACING PROCEDURE 3–3
MODIFIED VAR 380/2/C FACING PROCEDURE 3–5
PARK BFS-1 & CAMPAGNOLO 725 FACING PROCEDURE 3–6
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER these conditions, the tight/loose pattern is due to poor
quality of manufacturing, not abuse or wear.
This chapter is about a milling procedure (called facing)
that is done to bottom-bracket shells. Facing the bottom- Other reasons for facing
bracket shell improves the alignment of the bearing parts the bottom-bracket shell
that are installed in the bottom-bracket shell. Improving When tapping a bottom-bracket shell (particularly
the alignment of the bearing parts improves the quality with a Park BTS-1) it is a simple matter to go a step fur-
of the adjustment and the longevity of the parts. ther and face the bottom bracket as well. This is cheap
After the GENERAL INFORMATION section, there are insurance to enable easy adjustment of the bottom bracket
separate sections for using three different types of bottom- and maximize the longevity of bottom-bracket parts. For
bracket shell facing tool systems. These sections are: this reason, some shops will routinely tap and face bot-
PARK BTS-1 FACING PROCEDURE tom-bracket shells on high-end bikes.
MODIFIED VAR 3802/2/C FACING PROCEDURE In the case that a shop sells bare framesets, it is a
PARK BFS-1 & CAMPAGNOLO 725 FACING good marketing technique to face them before putting
PROCEDURE them out for display. Knowledgeable customers will look
for whether facing has been done to evaluate whether the
frame has been properly prepped for assembly.
GENERAL INFORMATION Cartridge-bearing bottom brackets

When a cartridge-bearing bottom bracket has bear-
ings mounted in cups with flanges or lockrings that bear
TERMINOLOGY against the ends of the bottom-bracket shell, facing the
Bottom-bracket shell: The part of the frame that bottom-bracket shell is just as important as with cup and
houses the bearings that the crank arms rotate around. cone type bottom brackets.
Facer: The cutter that is used to do facing. The facer Some cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are an
may also be called a facing mill. enclosed unit. The bearings and spindle are inseparable,
Facing: To cut the end of a cylinder (the bottom- and the bearings are inside a cylinder. This type might be
bracket shell in this case) so that it is flat and precisely held in the bottom-bracket shell by two mounting rings,
perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. or one end of the unit might be threaded, and the other
Pilot: A part of a bottom-bracket facer that is used end is secured by a separate mounting ring. With this
to align the facer so that it will cut precisely perpendicular enclosed-unit type of cartridge-bearing bottom bracket,
to the axis of the bottom-bracket-shell threads. The pilot an out-of-face shell will not affect the bearing and spindle
consists of the pilot shaft and the pilot hole. alignment. If this is the case, then there is no value to
facing the bottom-bracket shell.
INDICATIONS
Symptoms indicating need of facing TOOL CHOICES
There is only one symptom that indicates the need for The thread type of the bottom-bracket shell is what
facing the bottom-bracket shell. When attempting to adjust determines what tool you will need. The list in table 3-1
a high-quality adjustable-cup bottom bracket with new covers all tools for the job. The preferred choices are in
parts, the spindle feels smooth through a portion of its bold. A tool is preferred because of a balance among ease
rotation and tight in another portion of its rotation. This of use, quality, versatility, and economy.
is called a tight/loose pattern. The tight/loose pattern can
also be caused by conditions other than a bottom-bracket TIME AND DIFFICULTY
shell that needs facing, such as low precision parts, worn Facing a bottom bracket is a job of little difficulty.
out parts, bent spindles, and cross-threaded cups. Under With tapping already done it should take an additional
10–15 minutes.
3–1
COMPLICATIONS inserts must be installed so that they are completely inside

the bottom-bracket shell. The insertion of threaded inserts
Titanium requires at least 17mm of thread length on both sides of
Titanium has completely different metallurgical char- the bottom-bracket shell, whereas few cups require more
acteristics than steel or aluminum. It is necessary for a facer than 13mm of thread depth; consequently, many bottom-
to be designed in a dramatically different way to be suit- bracket shells do not have enough thread length to use the
able for facing titanium. Once designed to be suitable for Campagnolo 725 facing tool. Adding threads is a difficult
titanium, a facing tool will no longer be suitable for other procedure and hard on the taps.
materials. Special facers for titanium are not available at The threaded inserts are also very fat and interfere
the time of this writing; if they do ever become available, with anything that protrudes into the bottom-bracket
whether enough titanium frames will be encountered that shell, such as fasteners for bottom-bracket cable guides
need facing is a significant question. and excess tubing length on lugged frames.
Aluminum Facing-tool chatter
Aluminum is a perfectly suitable material for facing, but Facing-tool chatter is the tendency of the facing tool
it presents some special concerns to the mechanic. The type to bite and jump at rapid frequency. This tendency leaves a
of cutting oil used is critical. There are cutting oils made specifi- series of radial lines in the face of the bottom-bracket shell.
cally for use on aluminum. Any cutting oil that is suitable These radial lines are a cosmetic flaw, not a mechanical
will specify that it is for use on aluminum on the container. flaw. To some degree the chatter marks are preventable, but
Words like “all-purpose” and “multi-purpose” should not circumstances outside the control of the mechanic may
be interpreted to mean “including aluminum.” make chatter marks unavoidable at times. Proper facing
technique can reduce the likelihood of chatter occurring,
Chrome plating but if the type and hardness of the bottom-bracket shell
Chrome-plated bottom brackets cannot be faced
material is not compatible with the design of the facing
unless the chrome is first removed, a potentially dif-
tool, then chatter cannot be prevented. In the facing pro-
ficult procedure. A file or grinding stone can be used
cedures there are detailed instructions of the technique
for chrome removal.
that reduces the likelihood of chatter occurring. See figure
Failure of Campagnolo threaded inserts 3.1 (page 3-3) for an example of chatter marks.
to install fully
Campagnolo threaded inserts are pilots for the facing
tool. Their design creates several problems. These threaded
BOTTOM-BRACKET-FACING TOOLS (table 3-1)

Campagnolo 725 Piloted handles w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO inserts, very expensive
Campagnolo 724I Italian 36mm × 24tpi inserts for 725
Campagnolo 724F French 35mm × 1mm inserts for 725
Campagnolo 730 Spanners used for installing 725 inserts
Park BFS-1 Heavy-duty facing tool made for frame manufacturers to shorten shells (can be
used with its own BSC threaded guides or any Park taps as guides)
Park BTS-1 Same tool as bottom-bracket tap, faces 1.37" × 24tpi shells, excellent quality
and convenience
Park 693 36mm × 24tpi taps needed to use BTS-1 to face Italian shells
Park 694 35mm × 1mm taps needed to use BTS-1 to face French shells
VAR 380/2/C Same as tap set, can be modified to use as a facer with addition of VAR 37DL2
and United Bicycle Tool 37B
VAR 37DL2 Used with VAR 380/2/C tap set to convert to a facer
United Bicycle Tool 37B Used with VAR 380/2/C tap set to convert to a facer
VAR 380/3/C Facer set uses unthreaded pilots, low precision
3–2
3– FACING THE BOTTOM-BRACKET SHELL
the only reason to attempt to create a uniform, full-width
cut is to improve the cosmetics. It may take several extra
minutes of work to achieve a cosmetically superior fac-
ing cut. If the appearance of the cut can be substantially
improved by working 1–2 extra minutes, fine; otherwise,
leave the cut with a non-uniform width, as long as it is a
full 360°.
CARE OF FACING TOOLS

Facing tools are very expensive and easily damaged.
Proper cutting technique is important to get good life from
3.1 The radial lines in the face of this shell are the
result of chatter. them, but that is not all. When storing facers, make sure
they are clean and coated with oil. The cutting edges are
easily chipped by light impact with other metal objects, so
Uniform width of cut handle and store them in a way that this kind of accidental
When facing a bottom-bracket shell, the objective is contact will not happen. On hooks on a pegboard is a
to complete a cut that is a full 360° around the face of good way to store facing tools.
the shell. Sometimes, once the 360° cut is achieved, the When cleaning facing tools use a brush and solvent.
cut is not a uniform width; in fact, the cut may be very Blowing them clean with compressed air is not damaging
narrow at points and not nearly as wide as the shell face. to the facer but is dangerous. Coat the cutter with a light
See figure 3.2 for an example of an acceptable narrow cut oil after cleaning and drying.
and an acceptable non-uniform cut width. Using a facer on chrome-plated bottom-bracket shells
will dull it quickly and is almost impossible to do. The facer
will fail to get a bite on a chrome-plated bottom-bracket
shell at normal pressure. In some cases a chrome-plated
bottom-bracket shell can be faced by using very high cut-
ting pressure, but facing chrome-plated bottom-bracket
Narrow cut
shells is strongly advised against; tool damage is likely!
PARK BTS-1
FACING PROCEDURE
If the shell face is clean raw metal, it can be difficult
to track facing progress. In this case, use a material called
machinist’s dykem (available from general tool supply
stores or machinist’s supply stores) to paint the shell face
Wide cut before proceeding. Handle dykem carefully, as it can stain
Narrow cut almost anything.
1. [ ] Complete BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING PROCEDURE
(page 2-3) through step 13 before proceeding.
The Park BTS-1 uses the taps as the pilot hole for the
pilot shaft of the facing tool. If the taps are left protruding
from the ends of the shell then the facer will cut against
3.2 As long as the facing cut is a full 360°, it does not them instead of against the end of the shell. The taps have
matter if the cut is narrow or not a uniform width. Both
the shell faces shown here are acceptably faced.
a very short length, so it is unlikely, once the taps are all
the way into the existing thread, that they will need to go
There is a tendency to conclude that more facing in further to be recessed in the shell.
is needed when irregular cut width occurs. It is not a 2. [ ] If either or both taps are protruding from end
of shell, continue tapping procedure until
mechanical necessity to achieve a uniform, full-width cut;
each tap is recessed in end of shell.
3–3
Park BTS-1 tap handles are not retained in the taps by 6. [ ] Rotate facer clockwise only at moderate
a threaded device, but by internal spring clips. Just pull out pressure and speed for approximately four
firmly on a handle and it will leave the tap behind. full revolutions.
3. [ ] Withdraw one tap handle. In the next step, the progress of the facing is inspected.
4. [ ] Place facer on withdrawn handle and insert A partially faced bottom bracket will have freshly cut metal
handle back into taps. only for a portion of the 360° shell face. It is no concern
whether the width of the cut is uniform, only whether
there is freshly cut metal for a full 360°. If it is not a full
Pilot shaft circle, proceed to step #8.
Bottom-bracket shell
7. [ ] Pull facer away from end of shell and
Handle inspect progress of cut.
Facing mill
Taps
Unfaced
3.3 Cut-away view of a bottom-bracket shell with a 50% faced

Park BTS-1 facing tool in place.
Faced
Cutting oil needs to be added in the next step to assure
the ease and quality of the cut, as well as to preserve the
sharpness of the tool.
5. [ ] Add generous amount of appropriate type of
cutting oil to facer teeth.
A very important part of the remaining steps is that
the facer should be turned clockwise only. Unlike taps, the
design of facer teeth causes them to dull easily if rotated
counterclockwise.
It is also important to use correct pressure and speed, 100% faced
as little pressure is required to get a sharp tool to cut. Press-
ing in with one hand at the center of the tool is generally
enough pressure. There is very little leverage needed to
face, so there is no reason to turn the handles with both
hands. A slow, steady speed should be adequate.
Fine modulations of the cutting pressure and slower 3.4 The cut needs to be a full 360° to be complete.
Uniform width of cut is meaningless.
cutting speed should be used to prevent or reduce a phe-
nomenon called chatter. Chatter is the tendency of the 8. [ ] If more facing is needed, repeat steps 5–7.
tool to bite and jump at a rapid frequency, resulting in a Under the pressure needed to cut metal, the facer
chattering feeling and noise from the tool as it cuts. For can leave burrs when it stops. The next step is to spin the
every metal there is an optimum pressure; try reducing or facer one more revolution under very light pressure to
increasing the pressure to eliminate chatter. If chattering knock off any burrs.
occurs it will leave a series of radial lines in the face of 9. [ ] When first side is adequately faced, use
the bottom-bracket shell, which is a cosmetic flaw, not a facer for one more revolution under very
mechanical one (see figure 3.1). Chatter cannot always light pressure.
be prevented, but it can be minimized by modulating the 10. [ ] Pull both handles out and reinstall each han-
cutting pressure and speed. In addition to pressure and dle on opposite side.
speed being factors, the design of the facer teeth has to 11. [ ] Repeat steps 5–8 for second side until sec-
ond side is adequately faced.
be suitable to the particular hardness of metal being cut.
12. [ ] When second side is adequately faced, use
When the design of the facer teeth is too aggressive for facer for one more revolution under very
the hardness of the metal being cut, then some chatter is light pressure.
inevitable and must be lived with.
3–4
13. [ ] Remove handle on which facer is mounted 4. [ ] Place 37DL2 facer and spacer on withdrawn
and remove facer. handle, secure retaining nut, and insert
14. [ ] Put handle back into taps and shell. handle back into remaining tap and handle
15. [ ] Turn both tap handles until taps are almost already in shell.
fully out and are evenly protruding from shell.
16. [ ] Rotate both handles simultaneously Tap
enough to be sure that both taps are fully Pilot shaft
unthreaded, then withdraw both taps at Bottom-bracket shell
same time.
17. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket threads with tooth- Handle
brush and solvent. Facing mill
18. [ ] Clean outside of bottom-bracket shell and 37B spacer
Retention nuts
19. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket taps and facer.
install bottom bracket and crank arms as
necessary. 3.5 Cut-away view of a bottom-bracket shell with a
modified VAR 380/2/C facing tool in place.
Cutting oil needs to be added in the next step to assure

MODIFIED VAR 380/2/C the ease and quality of the cut, as well as to preserve the
FACING PROCEDURE sharpness of the tool.

5. [ ] Add generous amount of appropriate type
The VAR 380/2/C piloted bottom-bracket taps can of cutting oil to facer teeth.
be converted into an economical and effective facing tool. A very important part of the remaining steps is that
One handle is converted into a facing tool, while the other the facer should be turned clockwise only. Unlike taps,
tap handle and tap are left inside the bottom-bracket shell the design of facer teeth causes them to dull easily if
to act as a pilot mechanism. The conversion requires a rotated counterclockwise.
VAR 37DL2 facer and a spacer made and sold by United It is also important to use correct pressure and speed,
Bicycle Tool called the 37BUSH. The spacer is needed as little pressure is required to get a sharp tool to cut. Press-
because the 37DL2 is shorter than the tap that is being ing in with one hand at the center of the tool is generally
replaced when modifying. enough pressure. There is very little leverage needed to
If the shell face is clean raw metal, it can be difficult face, so there is no reason to turn the handles with both
to track facing progress. In this case, use a material called hands. A slow, steady speed should be adequate.
machinist’s dykem (available from general tool supply Fine modulations of the cutting pressure and lower
stores or machinist’s supply stores) to paint the shell face cutting speed should be used to prevent or reduce a phe-
before proceeding. Handle dykem carefully, as it can stain nomenon called chatter. Chatter is the tendency of the
almost anything. tool to bite and jump at a rapid frequency, resulting in a
1. [ ] Complete BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING PROCEDURE chattering feeling and noise from the tool as it cuts. For
(page 2-3) through step 13 before proceeding. every metal there is an optimum pressure; try reducing or
2. [ ] Unthread one tap and handle from the shell. increasing the pressure to eliminate chatter. If chattering
3. [ ] Unthread retaining nut from handle and occurs it will leave a series of radial lines in the face of
remove tap from handle.
the bottom-bracket shell, which is a cosmetic flaw, not a
To convert the tap handle to a facer the tap is removed,
mechanical one (see figure 3.1). Chatter cannot always
the facer is installed, a spacer is installed, and the retaining
be prevented, but it can be minimized by modulating the
nut is installed. In some cases the peg on the tap handle
cutting pressure and speed. In addition to pressure and
is too long to fit in the hole in the back side of the facer
speed being factors, the design of the facer teeth has to
and needs to be filed shorter. This has no effect on using
the handle for a tap later. The spacer is not symmetrical
When the design of the facer teeth is too aggressive for
and must be installed correctly. The end of the spacer with
the hardness of the metal being cut, then some chatter is
the reduced diameter goes against the facer. If the spacer is put
inevitable and must be lived with.
on backward then the retaining nut will not engage the 6. [ ] Rotate facer clockwise only at moderate
handle thread fully. pressure and speed for approximately four
full revolutions.
3–5
In the next step, the progress of the facing is inspected. 14. [ ] Convert removed handle into facer, same as
A partially faced bottom bracket will have freshly cut metal in step 4.
only for a portion of the 360° shell face. It is no concern 15. [ ] Repeat steps 5–8 for second side until sec-
whether the width of the cut is uniform, only whether ond side is adequately faced.
there is freshly cut metal for a full 360°. If it is not a full
facer for one more revolution under very
circle, proceed to step #8.
light pressure.
7. [ ] Pull facer away from end of shell and
17. [ ] Remove handle on which facer is mounted
inspect progress of cut.
and remove facer.
In the next two steps, the facer is converted back to
a tap and put back in the shell before the other tap is removed
from the shell. This prevents a tap from cross-threading on
Unfaced the way out due to lack of piloting.
18. [ ] Convert handle that was facer back to a tap.
19. [ ] Thread tap 1–2 full turns into shell.
50% faced 20. [ ] Back other tap out of shell until both taps
are equally outside of shell.
Faced 21. [ ] Rotate both handles simultaneously enough
to be sure that both taps are fully unthreaded,
then withdraw both taps at same time.
brush and solvent.
24. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket taps and facer.
necessary.
100% faced
PARK BFS-1 &

3.6 The cut needs to be a full 360° to be complete. CAMPAGNOLO 725
Uniform width of cut is meaningless.
FACING PROCEDURE
8. [ ] If more facing is needed, repeat steps 5–8. The Park BFS-1 and Campagnolo 725 facers are iden-
Under the pressure needed to cut metal, the facer tical tools except for one thing: The Park BFS-1 utilizes
can leave burrs when it stops. The next step is to spin the the taps as guides, and the Campagnolo 725 uses special
facer one more revolution under very light pressure to threaded guides that are not taps. The difference in use
knock off any burrs. is that when using Park BTS-1 taps to tap the bottom-
9. [ ] When first side is adequately faced, use bracket-shell threads, the taps are left in the shell to provide
facer for one more revolution under very the pilot hole. Installing and removing the threaded guides
light pressure. that the Campagnolo 725 uses is an additional step.
10. [ ] Remove handle with facer and remove If the shell face has clean raw metal, it can be difficult
retaining nut, spacer, and facer.
to track facing progress. In this case, use a material called
In the next two steps, the handle that was used as machinist’s dykem (available from general tool supply
a facer is converted back into a tap and installed in the stores or machinist’s supply stores) to paint the shell
bottom-bracket shell before the other tap is removed. This face before proceeding. Handle dykem carefully, as it
prevents a tap from cross-threading on the way out due can stain almost anything.
to lack of piloting. 1. [ ] If using Park BTS-1 for tapping, complete
11. [ ] Install and secure tap back on handle. BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING PROCEDURE (page 2-3)
12. [ ] Thread tap back into shell fully. through step 13 before proceeding; otherwise,
13. [ ] Remove other tap and handle from shell. complete the entire tapping procedure.
3–6
2. [ ] Thread appropriate thread guides into When the design of the facer teeth is too aggressive for
shell until both are recessed into shell and the hardness of the metal being cut, then some chatter is
securely fixed. inevitable and must be lived with.
3. [ ] If either or both guides are protruding from It is difficult to modulate the pressure responsively
end of shell remove guides and continue
when using these tools’ tensioning device. Hand pressure
tapping procedure until each guide is able to
should be adequate unless the facer is dull.
recess in end of shell.
6. [ ] Rotate facer clockwise only at moderate
4. [ ] Insert facer in either side and assemble ten-
pressure and speed for approximately four
sion device (large pressure washer, small
full revolutions.
lockwasher, spring, and tension nut) if desired.
In the next step, the progress of the facing is inspected.
A partially faced bottom bracket will have freshly cut metal
Pilot shaft only for a portion of the 360° shell face. It is no concern
Bottom-bracket shell whether the width of the cut is uniform, only whether
there is freshly cut metal for a full 360°. If the cut metal
Handle
is not a full circle, proceed to step #8.
Facing mill
Threaded guides
Unfaced
3.7 Cut-away view of a bottom-bracket shell with a

Campagnolo 725 facer in place. 50% faced
Cutting oil needs to be added in the next step to Faced

improve the ease and quality of the cut, as well as to
preserve the sharpness of the tool.
5. [ ] Add generous amount of appropriate type
of cutting oil to facer teeth.
A very important part of the remaining steps is that
the facer should be turned clockwise only. Unlike taps, the
design of facer teeth causes them to dull easily if rotated
counterclockwise.
It is also important to use correct pressure and speed,
as little pressure is required to get a sharp tool to cut. Press- 100% faced
ing in with one hand at the center of the tool is generally
enough pressure. There is very little leverage needed to
face, so there is no reason to turn the handles with both
hands. A slow, steady speed should be adequate.
Fine modulations of the cutting pressure and lower 3.8 The cut needs to be a full 360° to be complete.
cutting speed should be used to prevent or reduce a phe- Uniform width of cut is meaningless.
nomenon called chatter. Chatter is the tendency of the
tool to bite and jump at a rapid frequency, resulting in a If the tension device is engaged and not set too tightly,
chattering feeling and noise from the tool as it cuts. For it should be possible to pull the facer away from the shell
every metal there is an optimum pressure; try reducing or without un-setting the tension. If the tension device is
increasing the pressure to eliminate chatter. If chattering not being used, then just slide the facer out of the shell
occurs it will leave a series of radial lines in the face of to inspect the cutting progress.
the bottom-bracket shell, which is a cosmetic flaw, not a 7. [ ] Pull facer away from end of shell and
mechanical one (see figure 3.1). Chatter cannot always inspect progress of cut.
be prevented, but it can be minimized by modulating the 8. [ ] If more facing is needed, repeat steps 5–8.
cutting pressure and speed. In addition to pressure and Under the pressure needed to cut metal, the facer
speed being factors, the design of the facer teeth has to can leave burrs when it stops. The next step is to spin the
3–7
facer one more revolution under very light pressure to
knock off any burrs.
9. [ ] When first side is adequately faced, use
light pressure.
10. [ ] Remove tension device (if used) and pull
facer out of pilot hole.
11. [ ] Repeat steps 5–8 for second side until sec-
ond side is adequately faced.
light pressure.
13. [ ] Remove tension device (if used) and pull
facer out of pilot hole.
There are two choices in the next step. Choosing the
correct one determines which of the following steps need
to be done. The choice is based on whether the pilot system
being used up to this point had threaded guides or the Park
BTS-1 taps were left in place after tapping.
14. [ ] If threaded guides were used, remove
threaded guides and then skip steps 15–17
and go on to steps 18 & 19. If Park BTS-1
taps were used as pilots, install tap handles
back into taps and go on to steps 15–19.
15. [ ] If one tap is in further than other, unthread
until taps are evenly engaged.
16. [ ] Unthread both taps simultaneously until they
both will pull out, then pull taps out of bot-
tom-bracket shell together.
brush and solvent.
19. [ ] Clean bottom-bracket facer.
necessary.
3–8
4 – REAMING AND FACING THE HEAD TUBE
Unfaced
50% faced
Faced
100% faced

TERMINOLOGY 4–1
PREREQUISITES 4–1
INDICATIONS 4–1
TOOL CHOICES 4–2
COMPLICATIONS 4–3
CARE OF REAMING AND FACING TOOLS 4–4
REAMER AND PILOT SIZE REQUIREMENTS 4–5
HEAD-TUBE REAMING AND FACING PROCEDURE 4–5
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER PREREQUISITES

This chapter is about two head-tube milling proce-
dures: reaming the head tube and facing the head tube.
Stem removal and installation
Before removing the headset and fork, the stem must
Reaming the head tube is done to improve, or change,
be removed. After the head tube has been reamed or faced,
the fit of a headset pressed-race into the head tube. Fac-
and after the headset has been installed, the stem will need
ing the head tube is done to improve the alignment of
to be installed. If unfamiliar with stem removal and instal-
a headset pressed-race. Improving the alignment of the
lation, see the HANDLEBARS, STEMS, AND EXTENSIONS
headset parts improves the quality of the adjustment and
chapter. In some cases the brake cable or front brake may
the longevity of the parts.
need to be detached at some point, or removed completely,
in order to remove the stem.
Headset removal and installation
GENERAL INFORMATION In order to ream or face the head tube, the head-
set and fork must be removed. After the head tube has
been reamed or faced, the headset and fork need to be
TERMINOLOGY reinstalled. If unfamiliar with these procedures, see the
1" headset: A headset that fits on a fork column with HEADSETS chapter.
a diameter of approximately 1".
1–1/8" headset: A headset that fits on a fork column
with a diameter of approximately 1–1/8". INDICATIONS
1–1/4" headset: A headset that fits on a fork column
with a diameter of approximately 1–1/4".
Symptoms indicating need of reaming
The most likely reason that a head tube must be
Facer: The cutting tool that is used to face the head
reamed is that a JIS dimension headset (a headset made to
tube, also called a facing mill.
Japanese industrial standard race dimensions of 30.0mm
Facing: To cut the end of a cylinder (the head tube
and 27.0mm) has been removed, and the replacement
in this case) so that it is flat and precisely perpendicular
headset is of a different fit standard. It is possible, how-
to the axis of the cylinder.
ever unlikely, that a head tube will deviate so much from
Head tube: The near-vertical frame tube at the front
the ideal dimension that a correctly fit headset will be too
of the frame in which the fork column rotates.
difficult to press in. In this case, reaming will be required
Pilot: There are two different pilot systems for a
to improve the fit.
head-tube reaming/facing tool. There is always a conical
pilot insert that goes into the end of the tube not being Symptoms indicating need of facing
reamed or faced. This pilot keeps the tool shaft centered There is only one symptom that indicates the need
in the head tube. In addition to this pilot, there may be a for facing the head tube. When attempting to adjust a
pilot built into the cutting end of the tool. This other pilot high-quality cup and cone headset with new parts, the fork
may be below the reamer or below the facer in place of feels smooth through a portion of its rotation and tight in
the reamer. In either case, the pilot that is built into the another portion of its rotation. This is called a tight/loose
cutting end of the tool should be a close fit to the inside pattern. The tight/loose pattern can also be caused by
diameter of the head tube. conditions other than a head tube that needs facing, such
Reamer: A cutting tool that enlarges the inside diam- as low precision parts, worn out parts, a bent fork column,
eter of a hole. a crown race seat that needs facing, and mis-installed cups
Reaming: To enlarge the diameter of a hole. or crown race. When a head tube needs facing, it is due to
poor quality of manufacturing, not abuse or wear.
4–1
Other reasons for facing the head tube TOOL CHOICES

Facing the head tube is cheap insurance to enable easy The fit dimensions of a pressed head-tube race are
adjustment of the headset and maximize parts longevity. what determines what tool is required. The following list
On higher priced bikes some shops will routinely ream (table 4-1) covers all the tools available for reaming and
and face head tubes. facing the head tube. The preferred choices are in bold.
In the case that a shop sells framesets bare, it is good A tool is preferred because of a balance among ease of
marketing technique to face them before putting them use, quality, versatility, and economy.
out for display. Knowledgeable customers will look for All dimensions are in millimeters because these are
whether facing has been done to evaluate whether the the only units used by manufacturers.
frame has been properly prepped for assembly.
HEAD-TUBE REAMING/FACING TOOLS (table 4-1)

Bicycle Research HT1 Complete reaming/facing tool with 30.0mm reamer
Bicycle Research HT1/4 Additional 29.8mm reamer required if using Bicycle Research HT1 to face
head tube with JIS dimensions
Bicycle Research HR3 Additional 33.8mm reamer required if using Bicycle Research HT1 to face
head tube with 1–1/8" oversize headset
Bicycle Research HR4 Additional 36.8mm reamer required if using Bicycle Research HT1 to face
head tube with 1–1/4" oversize headset
Campagnolo 733 Complete reaming/facing tool with 30.0mm reamer, cannot be used to face
JIS head tube
Cobra 22/18 & 22/4 Additional 33.8mm reamer required if using Campy 733 to face head tube
with 1–1/8" oversize headset, plus centering cone that fits all head tubes
Fisher 15 Additional 36.8mm reamer required if using Campy 733 to face head tube
with 1–1/4" oversize headset
Park HTR-1 Complete reaming/facing tool w/ 30.0mm reamer, includes all necessary
pilots to face head tubes, instead of requiring additional 29.8mm, 33.8mm,
and 36.8mm reamers
Park 690-XL plus 768 Facer and pilot set for Cane Creek Zero Stack® headset standard
Park 756-S Facer and reamer for Cane Creek Integrated System® headset standard
Park 758-S Facer and reamer for OnePointFive headset standard
Park 750 Enlarges HTR-1 centering cone to work with 756-S and 758-S mills
Park 754 33.8mm reamer for Park HTR-1, only needed if preparing head tube at
frame manufacturing level
Park 755 36.8mm reamer for Park HTR-1, only needed if preparing head tube at
frame manufacturing level
VAR CD-03600-41.10 Mills Cane Creek Integrated System®/FSA/Ritchey/Tange Sekei-design inte-
grated head tubes (United Bicycle Tool #VR-60010)
VAR CD-03600-41.80 Mills Campagnolo-design integrated head tubes
(United Bicycle Tool #VR-60080)
VAR 32C (discontinued) Complete reaming/facing tool with 30.0mm reamer
VAR 968 Additional 33.8mm reamer required if using VAR 32C to face head tube
VAR 969 Additional 36.8mm reamer required if using VAR 32C to face head tube
VAR 970 Oversize facer for VAR 32C required to face head tube with 1–1/4" over-
size headset
4–2
TIME AND DIFFICULTY frames will be encountered that need reaming and facing
is a significant question.
Reaming and facing the head tube is a moderately dif-
ficult job that takes 15–25 minutes on a bare head tube. Aluminum
Aluminum is a perfectly suitable material for ream-
ing and facing, but it presents some special concerns to
COMPLICATIONS the mechanic. The type of cutting oil used is critical. There
Whether to use a reamer or a pilot are cutting oils made specifically for use on aluminum.
Some tools give you a choice between using a reamer Any cutting oil that is suitable will specify that it is for
or just a pilot on the reaming/facing tool. You must use a use on aluminum on the container. Do not interpret
reamer if converting the head tube from one size standard words such as “all purpose” and “multi-purpose” to
to another. Otherwise the reamer is probably not required mean “includes aluminum.”
and a pilot will do. Chrome plating
When not converting the size, the decision can be Chrome-plated head tubes cannot be faced unless the
made by trial and error or measurement. To make the chrome is first removed, a potentially difficult procedure.
choice by trial and error, test install the headset pressed A file or grinding stone can be used for chrome removal.
races with proper technique and tools (see page 11-17). If Reaming chrome head tubes can be done without facing,
the headset pressed-races are unusually difficult to install, but it severely wears out the reamer.
stop and remove them. Reaming is required.
To determine if reaming is required by measurement, Failure of VAR pilot to install fully
use the REAMER & PILOT SIZES table 4-2 (page 4-5) to Stock VAR pilots (fat shaft below the reamer) can
determine the correct reamer size, then take two I.D. be too fat and/or too long for many head tubes. If the
measurements of the head tube (90° apart) and average pilot is too fat, it will interfere with any imperfection in
the two measurements. If the average of the two mea- a head tube, including a tube seam. The stock VAR pilot
surements is less than the recommended reamer size by is too long for very short head tubes and interferes with
.05mm or more, reaming is required. the conical pilot at the other end of the head tube. United
Bicycle Tool Supply has modified the VAR bushing to a
Integrated headsets trouble-free length and diameter. This modified bushing
The integrated headset is a design that includes bearing is available separately (VAR-971/3), but it is the stock
mounts inside the head tube. There are several approaches bushing on all VAR 32C reamer/facers sold by United
to this, so there is not yet an integrated-headset standard. Bicycle Tool Supply.
See page 11-9 for details on these designs. At the time of
this writing, VAR is introducing two integrated-headset Incomplete reaming
milling tools, one for the Campagnolo Hiddenset® design After completing the reaming and facing, it may
and one for the Cane Creek Integrated System® design. appear that the reaming was not completed because the
At the time of this writing, Park is introducing adapters reamer has not left a 360° cut. This is normal and happens
for their head-tube facing tool for the Cane Creek Zero because few head tubes are truly round; in fact, in the case
Stack® and the Integrated System® designs. of 360° of clean metal on the inside of the head tube, the
reaming that has occurred may be excessive.
OnePointFive standard headsets
The OnePointFive standard refers to an emerging Excessive reaming
headset standard based on a fork column that is 1.5" Even after using the correct reamer, the headset part
outside diameter. At the time of this writing, Park is intro- may end up fitting loosely. This usually occurs when
ducing adapters for their head-tube facing tool for the an out-of-round head tube that did not actually need
OnePointFive standard head tube. reaming has been reamed. The reamer removes metal
at the low points so that the average I.D. is increased
Titanium when it was not required. An out-of-round head tube
Titanium has completely different metallurgical char- will become round when the head-tube race is installed.
acteristics than steel or aluminum. It is necessary for the Out-of-round head tubes are not a problem. Avoid
reamer and facer to be designed in a dramatically different excessive reaming by using the Park HTR-1 (with stock
way to be suitable for reaming and facing titanium. Once pilots) when facing an out-of-round head tube that has
designed to be suitable for titanium, the reamer/facer will an acceptable average I.D.
no longer be suitable for other materials. If special facers
for titanium become available, whether enough titanium
4–3
Excessive reaming time points and not nearly as wide as the head-tube face. There
Most head tubes have already been reamed to close to is a tendency to conclude that more facing is needed when
the correct size before the mechanic ever sees them. Using this occurs. It is not a mechanical necessity to achieve a
a reamer in one of these will be a very quick process. On uniform, full-width cut; the only reason to attempt to cre-
the other hand, the reamer is sometimes used to convert a ate a uniform, full-width cut is to improve the cosmetics.
head tube from a 29.8mm hole size to a 30.0mm hole size. It may take several extra minutes of work to achieve a
When using a reamer to make this conversion, instead of cosmetically superior facing cut. If the appearance of the
simply to improve an existing fit, expect reaming to take cut can be substantially improved by working 1–2 extra
5–10 minutes extra. minutes, fine; otherwise, leave the cut with a non-uniform
width, as long as it is a full 360°. See figure 4.2.
Facer interference with down tube
Avoid certain combinations of large diameter facers
(suitable for bikes that use 1–1/4" headsets) with head
tubes that do not extend very far below the bottom side of
the down tube. This combination of wide facer and short
head tube may result in the facer cutting into the down Narrow cut
tube or down tube lug/joint. This will destroy a frame!
NOTE: When facing the bottom end of every head
tube, check that there is adequate clearance
between the facer and the down tube or down
tube lug/joint.
Facing tool chatter
Facing tool chatter is the tendency of the facing tool
to bite and jump at rapid frequency. This tendency leaves Wide cut
a series of radial lines in the face of the head tube. These
Narrow cut
radial lines are a cosmetic flaw, not a mechanical flaw.
To some degree the chatter marks are preventable, but
circumstances outside the control of the mechanic make
chatter marks unavoidable at times. Proper facing tech-
nique can reduce the likelihood of chatter occurring, but
if the type and hardness of the head-tube material is not 4.2 As long as the facing cut is a full 360°, it does not
compatible with the design of the facing tool, then chat- matter if the cut is narrow or not a uniform width. Both
the head-tube faces shown here are acceptably faced.
ter cannot be prevented. In the facing procedures there
are detailed instructions of the technique that reduces the
likelihood of chatter occurring. See figure 4.1 below. CARE OF REAMING
AND FACING TOOLS
General tool care
Reaming and facing tools are very expensive and easily
damaged. Proper cutting technique is important to ensure
good life, but that is not all. When storing reamers and
facers, make sure they are clean and coated with oil. The
cutting edges are easily chipped by light impact with other
metal objects, so handle them and store them in a way that
this will not happen. On hooks on a pegboard is a good
4.1 The radial lines in the face of this shell are the way to store reaming and facing tools.
result of chatter.
When cleaning reaming and facing tools use a brush
Uniform width of cut and solvent. Blowing them clean with compressed air is
When facing a head tube, the objective is to complete not damaging to the cutters but is dangerous because of
a cut that is a full 360° around the face of the head tube. flying metal debris. Coat the cutter with a light oil after
Sometimes, once the 360° cut is achieved, the cut is not cleaning and drying.
a uniform width; in fact, the cut may be very narrow at
4–4
Reaming and facing done (with a suitable brand of tool), simply substitute the
correct-size pilot for the correct-size reamer, and skip the
chrome-plated head tubes procedure that says to apply cutting oil to the reamer.
Using a reamer or facer on chrome-plated head tubes
If the head tube being faced has clean raw metal show-
will dull the tool quickly. Reaming and facing a chrome-
ing on the face, it can be difficult to track facing progress. In
plated head tube is impossible because the facer fails to get
this case, use a material called machinist’s dykem (available
a bite at normal pressure. With very high cutting pressure,
from a general tool supply or from a machinist’s supply) to
reaming and facing the head tube can be done in some
paint the head-tube face before proceeding.
cases, but it is strongly advised against. Try using a file to
All dimensions are in millimeters because these are
remove chrome from the face of the head tube.
the only units used by manufacturers.
1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure/worksheet to
REAMER AND PILOT remove headset and fork.
2. [ ] Measure O.D. of inserted portion of race to
SIZE REQUIREMENTS be pressed into head tube and record mea-
The outside diameter of the inserted portion of the surement here: __________mm
headset race, which will be pressed into the head tube,
determines the correct size of reamer or pilot to use. If
replacing the headset, be sure to measure the new headset.
Do not measure the inside diameter of the head tube to determine the .9 0 .1
.8
reamer/pilot size. This measurement is only needed in order .2
.7 .3
to determine whether to use a reamer or a pilot.
.6 .4
Measure the diameter of the inserted portion of the 0 1 2 3 .5 .5
race that will be pressed into the head tube (see figure 4.3),
find the range that includes this measurement in the Race .4 .6
insert O.D. column of table 4-2, then look to the right .3 .7

.2 .8
in the Reamer size or Pilot size columns to determine .1 0 .9
the correct size to use.
REAMER & PILOT SIZES (table 4-2)
Race insert O.D. Reamer size Pilot size
29.95–30.10mm 29.8mm 29.75mm
30.15–30.30mm 30.0mm 29.95mm
32.65–32.80mm 32.5mm none available 4.3 Measure the O.D. of the inserted portion of the
33.95–34.10mm 33.8mm 33.75mm race in this way to determine the appropriate reamer/
36.95–37.10mm 36.8mm 36.75mm pilot size.
Use the measurement you have just taken to determine
both the correct reamer and pilot sizes. Whether you will
use a reamer or pilot is determined in step #5.
HEAD-TUBE REAMING 3. [ ] Look up appropriate reamer/pilot size in
REAMER & PILOT SIZES (table 4-2) and record
AND FACING PROCEDURE correct sizes here:
_______mm reamer
Head-tube reaming and facing can be done at the
_______mm pilot
same time with a single tool, or facing can be done without
In the next step calculate whether reaming is nec-
reaming, depending on the tool used. It is theoretically
essary. If the reamer will remove material, then the sum of
possible to ream without facing, but it is pointless to do so.
the calculation will be a negative number (if that number
Only one procedure is described here despite the above-
is between .00 and –.05mm then the amount of material
mentioned choices because the difference in the required
removed is insignificant). If the number is equal to or
procedure for each choice is minimal. This procedure is
greater than .00mm, then no material will be removed by
written on the assumption that reaming and facing will
be done at the same time. If facing is the only procedure
4–5
the reamer. If the number is –.05 or less, then a significant
amount of material will be removed by the reamer. Head tube
4. [ ] Calculate material reamer will remove:
Head tube I.D. #1 __________mm
Head tube I.D. #2 +__________mm
Total of I.D. #1 + I.D. #2 =__________mm
Divide total by 2 ÷2
Average I.D. =__________mm
Subtract reamer size –__________mm
Material removed by reamer =__________mm Conical pilot
5. Check one of following choices with regard to
reaming:
[ ] Step 4 final sum is > –.05mm, reaming is
not required.
[ ] Step 4 final sum is ≤ –.05mm, reaming is
required.
In the next step, make sure that the reamer/pilot
on the tool is the correct size and replace it if neces-
sary. Reamer/pilot dimensions cannot be seen when the
reamer or pilot is installed on the handle. Reamers cannot
be measured to determine their dimension. Most bike shops
have one set of reamers/pilots. Often, the easiest way Black button
to determine which reamer/pilot is on the handle is to
look at the markings on the reamers and pilots that are not
on the handle. Use a process of elimination to determine
which size must be on the handle.
6. [ ] Check or install correct reamer/pilot on
reaming/facing tool.
7. [ ] Install reamer/facer into top end of head tube.
In step #8, the tension device is assembled to the
tool shaft. Assembly is done differently on different
4.4 Tension device for the Park HTR-1.
brands of tools.
Park HTR-1: VAR 32C:
Depress the large black button on the base of the Slide the conical pilot up the shaft into the head
one-piece tension device. tube.
Slide the device all the way up the shaft and release Slide the spring onto the shaft.
the button. Rotate the slip nut so that the internal prong lines
up with the vertical slot in the shaft and slide
the slip nut onto the shaft.
Rotate the slip nut so that the internal prong
engages a horizontal slot in the shaft.
4–6
Head
tube
Head tube
Conical
Conical pilot pilot
Lock washer
Tension nut
Campagnolo 733 Bicycle Research HT

4.6 Tension device(s) for Campagnolo 733 and Bicycle
Slip nut Research HT models.
8. [ ] Assemble conical pilot and tension device to
end of reamer/facer tool.
When adjusting spring tension on a reamer/facer tool,
it is important to not have too much or too little tension.
If there is not enough tension, the conical pilot will be
loose and jiggling in the head tube and a sloppy cutting
job will be done. If there is excessive tension, then too
much cutting will happen at once, resulting in greater heat,
a rougher cut, and more wear and tear on the cutters.
9. [ ] Adjust spring tension to be just tight
4.5 Tension device for the VAR 32C. enough to keep conical pilot from moving
Campagnolo 733 & Bicycle Research HT: when jiggled.
Slide the conical pilot up the shaft into the head NOTE: If using a pilot and not a reamer, skip to
tube. step 13.
Slide the spring onto the shaft. In step #10 generous amounts of cutting oil should be
Campagnolo only: slip the lockwasher onto the applied to the reamer. This is most easily done by rotating
shaft. the frame so that the head tube is parallel to the floor. The
Both: thread the tension nut onto the shaft. addition of cutting oil improves the ease and quality of
the cut and preserves the sharpness of the tool.
4–7
10. [ ] Apply generous amounts of cutting oil to Under the pressure needed to cut metal, the facer can
reamer. leave burrs when it stops. The next step is to spin the facer
Whenever turning a reamer/facer, remember to one more revolution under very light pressure to knock
always turn the tool clockwise, otherwise the tool will off any burrs. The brand of tool being used determines
dull quickly. the appropriate technique for burr removal.
11. [ ] Turn reamer/facer handle clockwise several Campagnolo, VAR, and Bicycle Research:
turns, then check whether conical pilot is Remove the tension nut and spring.
still secure (if not, tighten tension device).
Hold the conical pilot against the head tube with
12. [ ] Add more cutting oil to reamer and repeat
fingers.
steps 10–12 until facer is in contact with
end of head tube. Spin the reamer/facer handle one revolution with-
13. [ ] Apply generous amounts of appropriate type out exerting any downward pressure.
of cutting oil to facer. Park HTR-1:
14. [ ] Turn reamer/facer clockwise several turns. Depress the big black button on the tension device
In the next step, inspect the facing progress. A par- with fingers (or use a clamp such as a Quik Grip
tially faced head tube will have freshly cut metal only for a third-hand brake tool).
portion of the 360° face. It is of no concern whether the Hold the tension device against the head tube
width of the cut is uniform, only whether there is freshly with fingers.
cut metal for a full 360°. If it is not a full circle, continue Spin the reamer/facer handle one revolution with-
on to step #16. out exerting any downward pressure.
17. [ ] When first side is adequately faced, use
light pressure.
Unfaced 18. [ ] Remove tension device and pull reamer/facer
out of head tube.
50% faced 19. [ ] Turn frame over so other end of head tube is
facing up.
20. [ ] Repeat steps 10–16 for second side until
Faced
second side is adequately faced.
light pressure.
22. [ ] Remove tension device and pull reamer/facer
out of head tube.
The cutting process can leave a sharp burr on the inner
edge of the head tube face. This burr can cut shavings
100% faced
off the aluminum races being pressed into the head tube,
these shavings can interfere with the complete installation
of the pressed race. The Campagnolo 733 tool deburrs
automatically, but all others need manual deburring, which
can be done with a round file or with a special general
4.7 The cut needs to be a full 360° to be complete. machinist’s hand tool called a deburring tool (United
15. [ ] Loosen tension device, then pull facer away Bicycle Tool GN-BHE).
from head tube and check progress of cut. 23. [ ] Use a deburring tool or fine round file to
16. [ ] If more facing is needed, repeat steps 13–16. remove any burrs from inner edge of each
face of head tube.
24. [ ] Clean outside of frame and inside of head
tube as necessary.
25. [ ] Clean reamer/facer tool.
install headset, fork, and stem as necessary.
4–8
5 – MILLING THE FORK CROWN
Fork column Crown-race seat
Fork-column base
Fork crown

TERMINOLOGY 5–1
PREREQUISITES 5–2
INDICATIONS 5–2
TOOL CHOICES 5–2
COMPLICATIONS 5–3
CARE OF COUNTER-REAMING AND FACING TOOLS 5–4
COUNTER-REAMER SIZE REQUIREMENTS 5–4
FORK COUNTER-REAMING AND FACING PROCEDURE 5–4
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Fork-crown race: The bottom piece of the headset,
which presses onto the fork-column base. The fork-crown
Milling the fork crown consists of two procedures.
race is sometimes called the crown race.
One is facing, which cuts the surface that the headset crown
Pilot: The main body of the counter-reaming/facing
race sits on so that the surface is flat and perpendicular to
tool. Some counter-reaming/facing tools have a hole
the axis of the fork column. The other is counter-reaming,
through the body that acts as the pilot, and some counter-
which is to cut the outside diameter of the fork-column
reaming/facing tools have an insert that is held in place by
base to change the fit of the fork-crown race.
a set screw. The inserts can be changed to accommodate
Counter-reaming can be done without facing, but
different sizes of fork columns.
facing cannot be done without counter-reaming.
Fork column Crown-race seat
GENERAL INFORMATION Fork-column base
TERMINOLOGY
1" fork: A fork column with a diameter of approximately
1". Headsets of several press-fit standards fit 1" forks.
1–1/8" fork: A fork column with a diameter of approxi-
mately 1–1/8". Headsets called 1–1/8" fit these forks.
Fork crown
1–1/4" fork: A fork column with a diameter of approx-
imately 1–1/4". Headsets called 1–1/4" fit these forks. 5.1 Parts of the fork.
Counter-reamer: A cutting tool that reduces the out-
side diameter of the fork-column base. The cutter teeth
that do the counter-reaming also do the facing.
Counter-reaming: To reduce the outside diameter
PREREQUISITES
of a cylinder. In this case it is specific to the fork-column Stem removal and installation
base where the fork-crown race fits. In order to counter-ream or face the fork, the headset
Crown race: See fork-crown race. and fork must be removed. The stem must be removed
Crown-race seat: The top surface of the fork crown before counter-reaming/facing can begin. At the comple-
that the fork-crown race sits on. tion of the job the stem will need to be replaced. If you are
Facer: The cutter that is used during facing. The unfamiliar with stem removal and installation, see the HAN-
teeth that do the facing also do the counter-reaming, also DLEBARS, STEMS, AND EXTENSIONS chapter. In some cases
called a facing mill. the brake cable or front brake may need to be detached, or
Facing: With regard to milling a fork crown, facing removed completely, in order to remove the stem.
means to cut the top surface of the crown-race seat, so Headset removal and installation
that the crown-race seat is flat and precisely perpendicular In order to counter-ream or face the fork, the headset
to the axis of the fork column. and fork must be removed. At the completion of the job, the
Fork column: The tube on top of the fork that goes headset and fork will need to be replaced. If you are unfa-
inside the frame’s head tube. miliar with these procedures see the HEADSETS chapter.
Fork-column base: The largest diameter portion of
the fork column at its absolute bottom. The fork-crown
race presses onto the fork-column base.
Fork crown: The large joining piece between the base
of the fork column and the top of the fork blades.
5–1
INDICATIONS Other reasons for facing

Symptoms indicating need the crown-race seat
Facing the crown-race seat is cheap insurance to
of counter-reaming enable easy adjustment of the headset and maximize
One likely reason that a fork should be counterparts longevity. For this reason, some shops will routinely
reamed is that a JIS dimension headset has been removed counter-ream and face forks on higher priced bikes.
and the replacement headset is of a different fit standard. In the case that a shop sells framesets bare, it is good
Another likely reason is that a replacement fork is being marketing technique to face forks before putting them
installed that has a fork-column-base diameter that is too out for display. Knowledgeable customers will look for
large for the existing fork-crown race. whether facing has been done to evaluate whether the
Symptoms indicating need of facing frame has been properly prepped for assembly.
There is only one symptom that indicates a need for
facing the crown-race seat. When attempting to adjust
new, high-quality headsets, a condition becomes apparent
TOOL CHOICES
The fit dimension of the headset crown race and the
in which the headset feels smooth through a portion of
fork-column diameter are what determines what tool will
its rotation and tight in another portion of its rotation.
be needed. The list in table 5-1 covers all tools for the job.
This is called a tight/loose pattern. The tight/loose pat-
The preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred
tern can be caused by things other than a crown-race seat
because of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility,
that needs facing, such as low precision parts, worn out
and economy. When more than one tool for one function
parts, bent fork column, head tube that needs facing, and
is bold, it means that several tools are required for differ-
mis-installed head-tube races or crown race. When a fork
ent configurations of parts.
crown needs facing, it is due to poor quality of manufac-
turing, not abuse or wear.
When the head tube has been faced to eliminate
a tight/loose pattern, the job is not complete until the
crown-race seat has been faced as well. TIME AND DIFFICULTY
Milling the fork column is a job of moderate difficulty
that takes approximately 10 minutes on a bare fork.
FORK COUNTER-REAMING/FACING TOOLS (table 5-1)

Bicycle Research FCS Complete counter-reaming/facing tool with 26.5mm, 30.1mm, and 33.1mm
counter-reamers
Bicycle Research FC2 Additional 27.1mm counter-reamer required if using Bicycle Research FCS to
face 1" fork column with JIS dimensions
Campagnolo 718 Complete counter-reaming/facing tool with 26.5mm counter-reamer for 1" fork
column
Park CRC-1 Complete counter-reaming/facing tool with 26.5mm and 27.1mm reamers for
1" forks and 30.1mm reamer for 1–1/8" fork (good clearance and precise pilot)
VAR 33AC Complete counter-reaming/facing for JIS and French 1" fork columns
(w/ 26.6 & 27.1 mills)
VAR 38D/4E Additional 26.5mm & 27.2mm double-sided cutter needed for 1" fork col-
umns if not using VAR 963C or Bicycle Research FCS, which includes critical
26.5mm size
VAR 963C Complete counter-reaming/facing tool with 26.5mm, 30.1mm, and 33.1mm
counter-reamer (least interference w/ bulge-based fork columns of all models)
VAR 965 Complete counter-reaming/facing tool for 1–1/4" fork columns
VAR 966 Complete counter-reaming/facing tool for 1–1/8" fork columns
5–2
COMPLICATIONS Titanium
Titanium has completely different metallurgical char-
Multiple 1" fork-column standards acteristics than steel or aluminum. It is necessary for the
The traditional 1" fork-column size has multiple counter-reamer and facer to be designed in a dramatically
standard dimensions for the fork-column base. They are different way to be suitable for counter-reaming and fac-
as follows. ing titanium. Once a counter-reamer/facer is designed to
26.5mm: Traditional size associated with be suitable for titanium it will no longer be suitable for
Campagnolo and other professional quality other materials. Special facers for titanium may become
headsets. Virtually all quality replacement head- available, but whether enough titanium forks will be
sets for 1" forks require this dimension. encountered that need counter-reaming and facing is a
26.6mm: Common to most Peugeot bicycles made significant question.
in France, this size is close to, but not inter-
changeable with, the 26.5mm size. The counter- Aluminum
reamer for this dimension is required whenever Aluminum is a perfectly suitable material for counter-
installing a replacement fork on a Peugeot while reaming and facing, but it presents some special concerns
keeping the original headset. This size counter- to the mechanic. The type of cutting oil used is critical. There
reamer is not needed if the customer is willing are cutting oils made specifically for use on aluminum.
to always install new headsets with new forks Any cutting oil that is suitable will specify that it is for use
on Peugeots. on aluminum on the container. Words like “all-purpose”
27.1mm: Common to all Taiwanese and Jap- and “multi-purpose” should not be interpreted to mean
anese original equipment and replacement “includes aluminum.”
forks. This size counter-reamer is needed if Chrome-plating
this size fork is to be faced without having to Using a counter-reamer or facer on a chrome-
change the headset. plated fork crown will also dull the tool quickly. Facing
Numerous others: Other sizes periodically pop up a chrome-plated fork crown is very difficult to do, with
on obscure brands from Europe and American- the facer failing to get a bite at normal pressure. This
made discount store bicycles. Counter-reamers job can be done with extremely high cutting pressure,
are not available, so converting to the next but it is strongly advised against.
smaller, common size is the usual option. Chrome-plated crown-race seats should not be faced
Bulge-base and oversized-fork columns unless the chrome is first removed, a potentially difficult
The counter-reamer body has a close tolerance hole procedure. A file or grinding stone can be used for chrome
for the fork column. Some columns are fatter than the removal. Counter-reaming can be done without facing,
standard that some counter-reamer pilots will clear. but it wears the tool severely.
Suspension forks are the most common forks with Incomplete counter-reaming
bulged bases, but these are not much of a problem because After completing the counter-reaming and facing, it may
their un-welded fabrication process allows greater preci- appear that the counter-reaming was not completed because
sion during manufacturing. the counter-reamer has not left a 360° cut. This is normal
Aluminum and carbon fiber forks often have a fat- and happens because the fork-column base is off-center to
ter fork column than normal. These forks may need the axis of the fork column. In fact, when the cut is 360º the
counter-reaming or facing and the VAR 963 is the only counter-reaming that has occurred may be excessive.
tool that will fit.
Heavy build-ups of chrome or paint can also cause Excessive counter-reaming
interference with the counter-reamer pilot. There is After using the correct counter-reamer, the fork-
nothing that can be done about chrome, but paint can be crown race may end up fitting loosely. This usually occurs
sanded off with patience. when an off-center fork-column base that did not actu-
ally need counter-reaming has been counter-reamed. The
OnePointFive standard headsets counter-reamer removes metal at the high points so that
OnePointFive standard refers to an emerging headset the average outside diameter is reduced when it was not
standard based on a fork column that is 1.5" outside diameter. required. There is no simple way to avoid this, except to
At the time of this writing, a few OnePointFive standard bikes eliminate paint when it causes the pilot to fit too closely.
exist, but no tools have been created for the shop mechanic When excessive counter-reaming happens, the fork-crown
to mill the fork crown to improve fit and alignment. race will need to be installed with Loctite RC680.
5–3
Excessive counter-reaming time COUNTER-REAMER SIZES (table 5-2)

Most fork-column bases have already been counter- Race I.D. Counter-reamer size
reamed to close to the correct size before the mechanic 26.30–26.40mm 26.5mm
ever sees them. Using a counter-reamer on one of these 26.41–26.50mm 26.6mm
will be a very quick process. On the other hand, the coun-
26.90–27.00mm 27.1mm
ter-reamer is sometimes used to convert a fork-column
29.90–30.00mm 30.1mm
base from a 27.1mm size to a 26.5mm size. When using a
counter-reamer to make this conversion, instead of simply 32.90–33.00mm 33.1mm
to improve an existing fit, then expect it will take 5–10
extra minutes to cut this much metal.
Unusable tension devices
It is not unusual for the fork-column length to be too
FORK COUNTER-REAMING
short or too long to use a tension device on the counter-
reaming tool. This is not a problem, and the procedure can
AND FACING PROCEDURE
Fork counter-reaming and facing can be done at the
be done easily without the use of a tension device. same time with a single tool, or counter-reaming can
be without facing (depending on the desire for facing).
CARE OF COUNTER-REAMING Only one procedure is described here, despite the above-
mentioned choices, because the difference in the required
AND FACING TOOLS procedure for each choice is minimal. This procedure is
Counter-reaming and facing tools are very expensive written on the assumption that counter-reaming and facing
and easily damaged. Proper cutting technique is important will be done at the same time. If counter-reaming only,
to get good life from them, but that is not all. When stor- simply stop the procedure when the counter-reaming has
ing counter-reamer/facers make sure they are clean and been completed.
coated with oil. The cutting edges are easily chipped by All dimensions are in millimeters because these are
light impact with other metal objects, so handle them and the only units used by manufacturers.
store them in a way that this will not happen. On hooks 1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure/worksheet to
on a pegboard is a good way to store facing tools. remove headset and fork.
When cleaning counter-reamers and facing tools, use
a brush and solvent. Blowing them clean with compressed
air is not damaging to the cutting edges but is dangerous
0
because of flying metal debris. Coat the cutter with a light .8
.9 .1
.2
oil after cleaning and drying. .7 .3
.6 .4
COUNTER-REAMER 0 1 2 3 .5 .5
SIZE REQUIREMENTS .4
.3 .7
.6
The I.D. of the fork-crown race that will be pressed .2 .8

.1 .9
onto the fork-column base determines the correct size of 0
counter-reamer to use. If replacing the headset, be sure

to measure the new headset. Do not measure the O.D. of the
fork-column base to determine the counter-reamer size.
Measure the I.D. of the fork-crown race (see figure
5.2) that will be pressed onto the fork-column base, find
the range that includes this measurement in the Race
I.D. column in table 5-2, and look to the right in the
Counter-reamer size column in table 5-2 to determine 5.2 Measuring the fork-crown race to determine the
correct counter-reamer size.
the correct size to use.
All dimensions are in millimeters because these are 2. [ ] Measure I.D. of fork-crown race to be
the only units used by manufacturers. installed and record here: ________mm
5–4
Some sizes of fork-crown races are extremely close 5. [ ] Mount fork on front wheel or fork clamp
without being interchangeable. Measurement to the near- (see explanatory notes following step 4).
est .05mm is required. Cutting oil is vital to the quality of the cutting and
3. [ ] Look up appropriate counter-reamer the life of the cutting tools. Apply oil liberally when start-
dimension on COUNTER-REAMER SIZES table 5-2 ing and as you continue to cut. Use oil labeled for use on
and record here: ________mm aluminum when cutting aluminum.
The only way to determine the size of some counter- 6. [ ] Apply ample cutting oil to crown-race seat
reamers is to measure the I.D. with a caliper. This is par- and counter-reamer.
ticularly true when determining the size of VAR double- 7. [ ] Place tool on fork column.
ended counter-reamers, which are marked with two sizes 8. [ ] With weight on handles, turn tool clockwise
but are not marked as to which end is which size. several full turns.
4. [ ] Check or install correct size counter-reamer 9. [ ] Pull tool up to check progress of counter-
on tool. reaming or facing.
10. [ ] If counter-reaming only, repeat steps 6–10
There are two good ways to hold the fork while doing
until fork-column base is counter-reamed
the entire milling procedure.
fully at outer perimeter.
The least expensive way is to mount the fork on a
quick-release front wheel (it’s best to have an old, dead
wheel around just for this purpose). Stand facing the front
of the fork. With the wheel on the floor, stand straddling
Incomplete
the front of the wheel to stabilize it. Lean over the fork
facing
and wheel to use the tool and apply cutting pressure.
Not faced Faced
Incomplete
facing
Faced
Complete
facing
5.4 Face the crown-race seat until there is a complete

360° cut at the outer perimeter of the crown-race seat.
With bottom bracket and head-tube facing, the only
factor determining whether the facing is completed is
whether fresh metal has been cut for a full 360°. The
5.3 Using a wheel to hold a fork that is being counter-
reamed and faced. nature of the fork-crown race requires that this complete
360° cut be at the outer perimeter of the crown-race seat
Another very effective method for holding the fork or it may be ineffective. A continuous 360° cut adjacent
is to use a fork clamp of the type used to secure a bike to the fork-column base, but not complete all the way
by its fork in the bed of a truck. Secure the fork clamp around the outer perimeter of the crown-race seat, will
upright in a bench vise, then secure the fork in the clamp not do the job. This is because many fork-crown races
in a horizontal position. This method is both secure and have a chamfer on the inner perimeter of the bottom
provides versatile positioning of the fork. face of the race (see figure 5.5). If the cut portion of the
5–5
crown-race seat does not extend beyond the diameter of
this chamfer, then the fork-crown race may not be sitting
on faced surface at all.
Fork column
Fork-column
base
Crown-race
seat
Crown race
(cut-away)
Chamfer
Fork crown
5.5 The chamfer at the inner edge of the bottom

face of the crown race makes it necessary to face the
crown-race seat all the way to the outer perimeter of the
crown-race seat.
11. [ ] If facing, repeat steps 6–11 until facing cut
is a complete 360° at outer perimeter of
crown-race seat.
12. [ ] Remove tool from fork.
13. [ ] Remove fork from front wheel or from fork
clamp.
14. [ ] Clean fork and tool.
install fork, headset, and stem as necessary.
5–6
6 – SIZING AND THREADING FORK COLUMNS
3
Adjustable Fork column
race
1
4
Fork jig Depth gauge

Butt-end of caliper
SIZING FORK COLUMNS 6–1

TERMINOLOGY 6–1
PREREQUISITES 6–1
INDICATIONS 6–1
TOOL CHOICES 6–1
COMPLICATIONS 6–2
THREADED-FORK-COLUMN SIZING PROCEDURE 6–3
THREADLESS-FORK-COLUMN SIZING PROCEDURE 6–5
FORK-COLUMN-THREAD CHASING AND EXTENDING 6–6
TERMINOLOGY 6–6
PREREQUISITES 6–6
INDICATIONS 6–7
TOOL CHOICES 6–7
COMPLICATIONS 6–7
CARE OF FORK-COLUMN-THREADING TOOLS 6–8
THREAD DESCRIPTIONS 6–8
FORK-THREAD-CHASING PROCEDURE 6–8
FORK-THREAD-EXTENDING PROCEDURE 6–9
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER be removed. At the completion of the fork sizing, the
stem and headset will need to be installed. If unfamiliar
This chapter is divided into two sections. The first is
with stem removal and installation, see the HANDLEBARS,
about sizing the fork column, which includes procedures
STEMS, AND HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS chapter (page 28-5).
for threaded and unthreaded columns, and the second
If unfamiliar with headset removal and installation, see the
section is about repairing fork-column threads or adding
HEADSET chapter (page 11-11). In some cases the brake
fork-column threads.
cable or front brake may need to be detached or removed
in order to remove the stem.
SIZING FORK COLUMNS INDICATIONS

The only reason for sizing a fork column is because
TERMINOLOGY a replacement fork is being installed and its fork column
is too long for the combination of head tube length and
Fork column: The tube on the top of the fork that
headset height being used. A replacement fork might be
goes inside the head tube of the frame.
installed because the original one is damaged, the original
Screwed race: The portion of a threaded headset
one has a fork column that is too short, or the original
that threads onto the fork column directly against the
one is being upgraded.
upper bearings.
Threadless-fork column: A fork column that has
no threads. A threadless-fork column must be used with TOOL CHOICES
a threadless headset. The diameter of the fork column, and whether the fork
Threadless headset: A headset that does not thread column is threaded or unthreaded, determines which of
onto a fork column; instead, the stem slips over the upper several tool choices you will need. However, the VAR 969
end of the fork column and is set against the topmost fits all forks, regardless of threading and diameter. In table
race of the headset and secured, which in turn sets the 6-1, there are several mitre jigs listed for aligning the saw
headset adjustment. blade when cutting the fork. These jigs for threaded-fork
columns are unnecessary if the shop is equipped with a
PREREQUISITES Park FT-4 or Park FCG-1 fork alignment jig. These jigs, in
conjunction with a used screwed race (steel only) for each
Stem and headset removal and installation diameter of fork column, make a more-than-adequate jig
Sizing a fork column is generally done when installing for aligning the saw blade. The mitre jigs are indispensable
a new fork in a bike. To do this, the stem and headset must for threadless forks. The preferred choices are in bold. A
FORK-COLUMN-SIZING TOOLS (table 6-1)

Hacksaw 28–32 teeth per inch
VAR 929 Fork mitre fits threaded and threadless 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" forks
General BHE Deburring tool for removing internal burrs from cut tube
Stein CG-3 Threadless-fork mitre that fits 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" forks
Park SG-5 Threaded-fork mitres that fit 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" forks
Stein CG-1 Threaded mitre for 1" × 24tpi
Stein CG-8 Threaded mitre for 1–1/8" × 26tpi
Stein CG-4 Threaded mitre for 1–1/4" × 26tpi
Park SG-6 Threadless-fork mitre that fits 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" forks
6– 1
tool is preferred because of a balance among ease of use, wall provides. On most forks, the diameter reduction is
quality, versatility, and economy. When more than one tool well below the deepest point to which the stem inserts. On
for one function is in bold it means that different tools are short fork columns, the diameter reduction interferes with
required for different configurations of parts. stem insertion. Different forks start this diameter reduc-
tion at different heights. The best way to check for this
TIME AND DIFFICULTY problem before cutting the fork is to insert a seat post of
the same diameter as the stem into the fork column and
On a bare fork, sizing the fork column is a 5–7 minute see how far it will install. Some BMX seat posts are the
procedure of little difficulty. same diameter as the common 22.2mm stem. A 25.4mm
seat post is close enough to the size of stem that goes in
COMPLICATIONS a 1–1/8" fork column. A 28.6mm seat post is a decent fit
inside a 1–1/4" fork column.
Too much thread left
It is possible to have too much thread on the fork
column after sizing it. For safety, it is important that the
stem wedge end up below the threaded portion of the
fork column, so that the fulcrum and stress are not in the
weak, threaded portion of the fork column. The only way
to prevent this is to start with a fork that is not threaded
too far down. In borderline situations it may be neces-
MAX HT
sary to insert the stem so that the minimum insertion or Stem
maximum height mark is below the top of the fork. If this
positions the bars too low, then a stem with more height
should be installed.
Stem wedge
Fork column
6.2 The fork is unacceptable because the stem will not

install far enough because of the change of diameter
MAX HT inside the fork column.
Stem
Cut too short

Thread length If the fork column has been cut too short and the
headset locknut will not engage properly, try the following
procedures.
Stem wedge Try dispensing with any simple flat washers in the
headset. They are used to adjust stack height and
improve locknut security. Locknut security can
Fork column be improved with Loctite 242 instead.
If there are any brackets for reflectors, consider
6.1 The fork-column thread is too long if the bottom of an alternate location. If there is a brake cable
the stem/wedge is above the bottom of the thread. hanger, consider one built into the stem. It may
also be possible to find thinner brackets.
Stem will not go in far enough Consider a new headset with a shorter overall
With some short frames, the fork column can end stack height.
up short enough that the stem will not install far enough. Use a head tube reamer/facer to shorten the head
Near the base of the fork column the I.D. is usually tube. It is best to remove material from the top
reduced to take advantage of the strength that a thicker as much as possible before removing any from
6–2
the bottom. Shortening the head tube is a drastic head-tube race that is inserted inside the head tube. This
solution that should only be considered when all combined measurement is the lower stack height.
other alternatives have been exhausted. The upper stack consists of the upper race (which is
pressed into the head tube), the upper ball bearings, the
Cut too long race that screws onto the fork column, any washers that
If, for some reason, the fork column has been cut too will be used, any brackets (reflector or brake cable hanger)
long and the headset locknut will not tighten against the that will be used, and the locknut(s). Assemble and mea-
headset washers and screwed race, add more washers to sure the upper stack, except for the portion of the upper-
the headset. This correction will work for error less than head-tube race that will be inserted in the head tube, then
or equal to 5mm. For error greater than 5mm, cut the fork subtract 2mm to determine the upper stack height.
column to the appropriate length.
THREADED-FORK-COLUMN U
SIZING PROCEDURE
remove headset and fork.
Determine the correct fork-column length by one
of two methods.
If replacing an existing fork and re-using an existing U - 2 = upper stack height
headset, then determine the correct fork-column length
simply by measuring the fork that is being replaced.
Measure from the top of the fork column down to the
crown-race seat (top of the fork crown).
L
L = lower stack height

6.4 Measure U, then subtract 2mm to determine the
upper stack height of the headset. Measure L to deter-
mine the lower stack height of the headset.
The correct fork-column length is the sum of the
lower stack height, the upper stack height, and the head-
Fork-column length
tube length.
2. Determine correct fork-column length by one of
these two methods:
[ ] If using same headset, measure existing fork
column and record length here: _______mm
[ ] If installing new headset or there is no orig-
inal fork to match,
Measure head tube length: _______mm
Measure headset lower stack: +_______mm
Measure headset upper stack: +_______mm
Total is correct column length: =_______mm
When sizing the new fork, it is easier to set the mitre
6.3 Measure fork-column length here. to the correct position to remove the excess length than it is
If there is no original fork to measure, if you do not to set the mitre to leave the correct length. For this reason,
know whether the original fork column was a suitable the calculated-correct length is subtracted from the new
length, or if the headset is being changed, then the cor- fork’s actual length to determine the amount of excess to
rect fork-column length must be calculated by adding the remove (in the next step).
headset-stack height to the head-tube length. 3. [ ] Measure new fork-column length and record
The headset consists of two stacks. The lower stack here: _______mm
consists of the fork crown race, lower ball bearings, and
lower race (which is pressed into the head tube). Assemble
these parts and measure all but the portion of the lower
6–3
4. [ ] Determine excess column to remove:
Fork column
Step 3 length: _______mm
A Saw slot
Subtract step 2 length: –_______mm
Excess to remove: =_______mm
Setting the fork in the correct position to cut just B
the right amount of excess off is a different procedure Fork mitre
depending on what system is being used to guide the hack-
saw blade. Either a fork-alignment jig and an old screwed
race (steel only) can be used or a fork mitre jig. 6.6 A plus B equals excess fork-column length.
To set up the fork-alignment-jig system, insert the
5. [ ] Insert fork in mitre or saw guide system and
fork in a Park FT-4 or Park FCG-1, but do not secure
adjust so blade will remove no more column
it. Later, when the length to be cut off has been set, the
length than determined in step 4.
fork will be secured in the jig. Bicycle Research frame tube
When cutting the column using an old screwed race
blocks (in the appropriate size) provide an inexpensive way
(steel only) as a guide, angle the hacksaw slightly toward
to hold the fork column in a vise. Thread on an appro-
the screwed race to get as flush a cut as possible. The
priately sized steel headset race. Set the depth indicator
screwed race will be of a hard enough steel that the saw
of a caliper to the dimension of the excess length to be
blade will not cut it. Use a bastard file to file the cut flush
removed and use the caliper to position the screwed race
to the face of the screwed race if the hacksaw does not
so that only the excess length is exposed past the screwed
cut flush. If using a fork mitre, angle the blade sharply
race. Slide the fork in the alignment jig so that the screwed
toward one edge of the slot in the mitre.
race butts against the jig, then clamp the fork column
securely in the jig.
3 Hacksaw
Adjustable Fork column
race
1
4
6.7 Angle the hacksaw blade toward the screwed race.
If using a mitre, the blade should be similarly angled
sharply toward one side of the mitre slot.
Fork jig Depth gauge If using a threaded mitre, make sure that the fork
Butt-end of caliper column does not rotate in the mitre during the cut.
6.5 To set the proper amount of fork column to be 6. [ ] Cut off excess column length.
removed: 1. Set the depth gauge of the caliper to the The saw will leave a burr inside the fork column that
desired amount. 2. Butt the end of the caliper against will interfere with stem installation. Use a deburring tool
the end of the fork column. 3. Rotate the adjustable
race up the fork column until it butts against the depth (United Bicycle Tool GN-BHE) or a small round file to
gauge. 4. Slide the fork-column assembly until the race remove this burr.
butts against the fork jig (or frame block).
7. [ ] Remove burr inside fork column.
If using a threaded mitre jig, or the VAR 969, then the The saw cut leaves the first thread on the fork col-
distance from the bottom edge of the saw blade slot to the umn in a condition that will make it difficult to start a
top face of the mitre must be measured. This dimension must screwed race when assembling the headset. The technique
be subtracted from the excess column length to be removed. to improve the first thread differs depending on which
Adjust the fork in the mitre until the amount of exposed fork system was used to guide the saw.
column is equal to the amount of this calculation. If the system used was the fork alignment jig and
the used steel race, loosen the alignment jig clamp, push
6–4
the fork through, and thread down the screwed race so If using a threaded-fork mitre, thread the fork further
that it is about 10mm from the end of the fork column. into the mitre so about 10mm of thread is exposed. If
Leave the clamp loose enough so that the fork can easily using the VAR 969, loosen the clamp and push the fork
be rotated. Put a flat mill bastard file on the cut end of the through the jig until about 10mm of thread is exposed.
fork column at an angle that is closer to parallel to the axis Rotating the fork against the direction of the file stroke
of the column than it is perpendicular to the axis of the (see figure 6.9), use a mill bastard file to file a steep taper
column (about 30°). Push the file forward while rotating all the way around the end of the fork column that is one
the fork against the direction of the file stroke. Continue to two threads long.
rotating and filing around the column several revolutions 8. [ ] Taper outside thread.
until there is a taper all the way around with a length of To chase the threads, simply unthread the mitre or
one to two threads. screwed race that was used to guide the saw.
9. [ ] Chase threads.
End of file File handle Most forks come with a slot in the threads that accom-
30º modates a key on a headset washer. Sometimes when a
fork column is shortened there is not enough slot length
left. It is difficult and unnecessary to lengthen the slot. The
easiest solution is to remove the key from the washer or
brackets. The key is a convenience item but not required; in
fact, the washer or bracket with the key often rotates, and
when the key rotates out of its slot, it mangles threads.
If it is desired to keep the key and slot system, extend
the slot with the edge of a small (6") flat file or with the edge
of a grinding disk on a rotary tool. Another alternative is to
file the threads flat. This will allow the key to rotate some,
but not all the way around the fork column.
6.8 Filing a taper on the end of the fork. The file
should be used at an angle of 30° from the axis of the
fork column.
6.10 On the left are fork threads with a slot in them;

on the right are fork threads that have been filed flat.
10. [ ] Modify or replace headset washers if slot in
fork-column threads is no longer long enough
to accommodate key in any keyed washers.
install fork, headset, and stem.
THREADLESS-FORK-COLUMN
SIZING PROCEDURE
6.9 Filing a taper on the fork threads. remove headset and fork.
6–5
Determine the correct fork-column length by one 3. [ ] Remove fork from headset.
of two methods. 4. [ ] Insert fork in mitre, so blade will remove no
If replacing an existing fork and re-using an existing more column length than determined in step 2.
headset, then determine the correct fork-column length 5. [ ] Cut off excess column length.
6. [ ] Remove cutting jig from fork column.
simply by measuring the fork that is being replaced.
Measure from the top of the fork column down to the The saw will leave a burr on the inside of the fork
crown-race seat (top of the fork crown). column that will interfere with star-nut or expansion plug
If there is no original fork to measure, if you do not installation. Use a deburring tool or a small round file to
know whether the original fork column was a good length, remove this burr.
7. [ ] Remove burr inside fork column.
or if the headset is being changed, then the correct fork-
The saw cut will leave a burr on the outside of the
column length must be calculated.
fork column that will make it difficult to slide the stem
To calculate the correct fork-column length, assemble
on. Use a mill bastard file to lightly dress the outside edge
the headset into the head tube and place the fork into the
of the cut.
headset. Put all washers and brackets in place that will be
8. [ ] File off burr on outside of column.
between the top of the headset and the stem. Slide the 9. [ ] Use appropriate procedure/worksheet to
stem onto the fork column, but do not secure it. Measure install fork, headset, and stem.
the amount of fork column extending above the stem.
Add 3mm to the amount of fork column exposed to
determine the amount of excess length. When assembled,
the top of the fork column is supposed to be 3mm below
the top of the stem.
FORK-COLUMN-
2. Determine correct fork-column length by one of
these two methods.
THREAD CHASING
[ ] If using same headset, measure existing fork
column and record length here: _______mm
AND EXTENDING
[ ] If installing new headset or there is no orig-
inal fork to match, assemble fork and head- TERMINOLOGY
set into frame and install stem: Thread chasing: Sometimes referred to as just
Measure protruding column: _______mm “chasing,” it is to use a die to improve the condition of
Add 3mm: +3 mm existing threads.
Total is excess column length: =_______mm
Thread die: Sometimes referred to as just “die,” it is
Setting the fork in the correct position to cut exactly a tool for cutting or improving external threads. It is the
the right amount of excess off is simply of a matter of opposite of a tap.
putting the jig on the fork column and measuring from
the top of the jig to the end of the fork. This dimension
should be the excess length minus the distance from the PREREQUISITES
bottom of the saw slot to the top face of the jig.
Stem and headset removal
and installation
A Chasing threads, or extending threads, on a fork
B column is done when a fork is out of the bike. In order
to chase or extend threads, the headset and fork must
Fork mitre be removed. The stem and headset must come out to
do this if they are in place when the job is begun. At the
completion of the job, the stem and headset will need to
Threadless be replaced. If unfamiliar with stem removal and instal-
fork column lation, see the HANDLEBARS, STEMS, AND HANDLEBAR
EXTENSIONS chapter (page 28-5). If unfamiliar with
Saw slot headset removal and installation, see the HEADSET chap-
ter (page 11-11). In some cases the brake cable or front
brake may need to be detached or removed in order to
remove the stem.
6.11 A plus B equals excess fork-column length.
6–6
INDICATIONS TIME AND DIFFICULTY

This moderately difficult job takes a highly variable
Symptoms indicating need amount of time depending on the amount of thread length
for thread chasing that needs to be added; furthermore, frequent long pauses
Thread chasing on a fork column is needed whenever are required to allow the material to cool. The actual work-
parts are difficult to thread on or off of the fork. The ing time could easily vary from 5 to 30 minutes.
cause may be cross-threading a part on, threads damaged
from impact while exposed, rust on the threads, or damage
from a key on a washer or bracket that has been rotated COMPLICATIONS
out of its slot and into the threads. Threads too stripped to fix with chasing
Symptoms indicating need Threads can strip to the point that chasing them with
for thread extending a die will not restore their usability. If this is suspected,
The threads need to be extended whenever the fork chase them anyway and try torquing the screwed race and
that must be used does not have enough thread for the locknut together on the fork column with all the washers
screwed race to thread all the way down to compress the and brackets that will be used between them. If the threads
bearings between the stationary and rotating upper races hold up to this torque test then the fork is usable. If not,
of the headset. The usual cause for this problem is that a new fork is needed.
an inappropriate fork has been selected as a replacement. Chrome-moly steel making fork
Always pursue to the limit the option of finding a fork with more unsuitable for thread extension
threads before cutting a fork that will need its threads extended. On The tools used for extending threads are not actually
rare occasions there is no fork available that has threads designed for that purpose. With softer metals it usually can
far enough down the fork column. be done, but even with the best of tools and techniques
the result on high-quality chrome-moly tubing may be
TOOL CHOICES disastrous, resulting in a trashed fork and a dull die.
Tool choices are determined in part by the diameter Titanium
and thread description of a particular fork column that Titanium has completely different metallurgical
will be chased or have threads extended. The following characteristics than steel or aluminum. It is necessary for
list (table 6-2) covers all tools required for the job. The the die to be designed in a dramatically different way to
preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred because be suitable for threading titanium. Once designed to be
of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility, and suitable for titanium it will no longer be suitable for other
economy. When more than one tool for one function is materials. Special dies for titanium are not yet available, but
in bold it means that different tools are required for dif- whether enough titanium forks will be encountered that
ferent configurations of parts. need thread repair or extension is a significant question.
FORK-THREAD-DIE TOOLS (table 6-2)

Hozan C421 Complete handle and die for BSC 1" × 24tpi forks
Hozan C432/8 Complete handle and dies for 1–1/8" × 26tpi forks
Hozan C432C Complete handle and dies for BSC 1" × 24tpi, 1–1/8" × 26tpi,
and 1–1/4" × 26tpi forks
Park FTS-1 Complete handle, dies, and pilots for BSC 1" × 24tpi, 1–1/8" × 26tpi, and
1–1/4" × 26tpi forks
VAR 40S Complete handle and die for BSC 1" × 24tpi forks
VAR 40S18 Complete handle and die for 1–1/8" × 26tpi forks
VAR 40S14 Complete handle and die for 1–1/4" × 26tpi forks
6–7
Aluminum FORK-THREAD-CHASING
Aluminum is a perfectly suitable material for thread-
ing, but it presents some special concerns to the mechanic. PROCEDURE
The type of cutting oil used is critical. There are cutting oils 1. [ ] Measure thread pitch and record here (circle
correct units): _________mm/tpi.
made specifically for use on aluminum. Any cutting oil that
2. [ ] Measure fork thread O.D. and record here:
is suitable will specify that it is for use on aluminum on the _________mm
container. Do not interpret words such as “all-purpose” 3. [ ] Find in FORK-THREAD TYPES (table 6-3) match-
and “multi-purpose” to mean “includes aluminum.” ing pitch and diameter and record corre-
For good quality results it is also critical that the die sponding nominal description here: ________
be very sharp. 4. [ ] Verify die of correct thread type is in handle.
VAR and Hozan dies have adjustable diameters. In
Chrome plating the next step, the die diameter needs to be enlarged. A
Chrome-plated fork columns can be threaded, but it
set screw or bolt, 90° from the split in the die, needs to
wears the tool much faster.
be loosened to allow expansion. A set screw or bolt at the
split is tightened to expand the die. Once the diameter is
CARE OF FORK-COLUMN- set, the set screw or bolt 90° from the split is tightened
THREADING TOOLS to secure the die in the handle.
5. [ ] If die diameter is adjustable, adjust to largest
Fork-column-threading tools are very expensive and diameter.
easily damaged. Proper cutting technique is important 6. [ ] Apply cutting oil to threads and die.
to get good life from them, but that is not all. When When cutting threads, always use a technique called
storing fork-column-threading tools make sure they are “cut and clear.” Once resistance is encountered by the die,
clean and coated with oil. The cutting edges are easily advance it no more than 1/4 turn. This is the “cut” seg-
chipped by light impact with other metal objects, so ment. After the cut has been done, back the die off about
handle them and store them in a way that this will not 1/2 turn. This is the “clear” segment, named so because
happen. On hooks on a pegboard is a good way to store this action clears the fresh-cut fragments away from the
fork-column-threading tools. cutting edges. Advance the die until resistance is encoun-
When cleaning fork-column-threading tools, use a tered again, and repeat the cut-and-clear technique.
brush and solvent. Blowing them clean with compressed 7. [ ] Thread die onto fork, using cut-and-clear
air is not damaging to the cutting edges but is dangerous technique wh en resistance is encountered
because of flying metal debris. Coat the cutter with a light (adding cutting oil repeatedly).
oil after cleaning and drying. If an adjustable die was used for the first pass, it prob-
ably did the bulk of the thread clean-up, but another pass is
needed to finish. In the next step the die is adjusted again,
THREAD DESCRIPTIONS preferably while on a portion of the threads where there is
Table 6-3 shows the pitch and diameter measurements no damage. When making the adjustment, the die should
for all fork-thread types. Diameters can vary slightly within jiggle imperceptibly, or if there is no jiggle it should be
a range but still be the same standard. clear that no cutting is occurring when the die is rotated
FORK-THREAD TYPES (table 6-3) in the undamaged portion of the threads.
8. [ ] If die diameter is adjustable, adjust die
Pitch Measured O.D. Name: thread description
diameter to as snug as possible without cut-
24tpi 25.1–25.3mm BSC: 1" × 24tpi
ting on portion of thread where no damage
24tpi 25.1–25.3mm Italian: 25.4mm × 24tpi* was evident.
1mm 24.7–24.9mm French: 25mm × 1mm 9. [ ] Run die over full length of damaged
26tpi 28.3–28.5mm 1–1/8: 1–1/8" × 26tpi threads, using cut-and-clear technique
26tpi 31.5–31.7mm 1–1/4: 1–1/4" × 26tpi when resistance is encountered (adding
cutting oil repeatedly).
* Italian is interchangeable with BSC. After chas- 10. [ ] Remove die and clean fork and tool.
ing an Italian thread with a BSC die, the headset
should still fit.
6–8
FORK-THREAD-EXTENDING resistance (cut), then back off 1/4 turn (clear)

before starting again.
PROCEDURE After completing one complete revolution of the
1. [ ] Determine length of additional thread needed die, take a break for long enough to be sure
and note here: _________mm all heat has dissipated. Fifteen minutes should
2. [ ] Measure thread pitch and record here (circle generally be enough. Compressed air could be
correct units): _________mm/tpi used to speed the cooling, but there is a risk
3. [ ] Measure fork thread O.D. and record here:
of blowing sharp metal fragments about in a
_________mm
4. [ ] Find in FORK-THREAD TYPES (table 6-3) match- dangerous fashion.
ing pitch and diameter and record corre- Flood the threads with ample quantities of fresh
sponding nominal description here: ________ cutting oil to absorb the heat while it is being cre-
__________ ated. For this to work, the oil should be applied
5. [ ] Verify die of correct thread type is in handle. about once per full die revolution in a quantity
VAR and Hozan dies have adjustable diameters, by that will wash away the last application of oil.
virtue of a split in the die. Brands of dies that have no When using a sharp die on a carbon-steel fork, this
split cannot be used for extending threads. In the next combination of techniques should result in a good-quality
step, the die diameter needs to be enlarged. A set screw job, although a very time-consuming one. If a dull die is
or bolt, 90° from the split in the die, needs to be loos- used, or if the fork is high-quality chrome-moly steel, there
ened to allow expansion. A set screw or bolt at the split is is no guarantee that the result will be acceptable.
tightened to expand the die. Once the diameter is set, the 11. [ ] Use cut-and-clear technique to advance die
set screw or bolt 90° from the split is tightened to secure down fork column, stopping to let metal
the die in the handle. cool after every full revolution and adding
6. [ ] Adjust die to largest diameter (handle should cutting oil each time before re-starting.
jiggle up and down obviously). 12. [ ] Stop cutting when top of die is below end of
7. [ ] Apply cutting oil to threads and die. fork by amount in step 10.
In the next step, thread the die down as far as it easily Now that one pass has been completed, a second one
goes. Once resistance is met, the die is all the way down must be done at a slightly smaller diameter. This will not
the existing threads and the cutting of new threads is be the final pass, so adjust the die diameter so that it has
about to begin. Use a caliper to measure how far the die noticeably less jiggle on the original threads than the first
is from the top of the fork column so that the progress setting, but it still jiggles. This pass will cut substantially
of extending the threads can be monitored. less metal than the first, so it is not necessary to take a
8. [ ] Thread die onto fork until die reaches end of long rest in between every revolution. Bigger turns for the
existing threads. cut-and-clear technique can be used, as well (1/4 turn for
9. [ ] Use depth gauge to measure exposed thread the cut and 1/2 turn for the clear).
from top of fork column to top of die and 13. [ ] Turn die up until it is fully on original threads
record here: ________mm and adjust diameter tighter, but leave it
10. [ ] Add step 1 to step 9 to determine amount somewhat loose (jiggling).
of exposed threads that will be above die 14. [ ] Repeat steps 11 and 12.
when extending threading is complete. Note For the final pass the die should be returned to the
result of calculation here: ________mm original threads and adjusted as tight as it will go with-
Extending the threading on a fork is a misuse of a out cutting when turned on the original threads. There
fork die. What is likely to suffer, however, is the fork. If should be little or no apparent jiggle between the die
extreme care is not take to avoid heat buildup, then the fork and the threads.
column will expand in the die, resulting in galled threads 15. [ ] Turn die up until it is fully on original threads
and undersized thread diameter. Four techniques can be and adjust diameter tighter until jiggling is
used in combination to avoid heat buildup. gone or near gone, but cutting does not
Use an expandable die so that the threads can be occur when die is rotated.
cut to partial depth on the first pass and then 16. [ ] Repeat steps 11 and 12.
be cut progressively deeper on the second pass 17. [ ] Remove die from fork.
18. [ ] Clean fork and tools with brush and solvent,
and the last pass.
then coat die with oil.
Use a very conservative cut-and-clear technique.
Advance the die no more than 1/8 turn into the
6–9
7 – SEAT-TUBE MILLING
Shallow slot
Blade
Deep slot

TERMINOLOGY 7–1
PREREQUISITES 7–1
INDICATIONS 7–1
TOOL CHOICES 7–1
COMPLICATIONS 7–2
SEAT-TUBE HONING AND REAMING PROCEDURE 7–2

This chapter is about two procedures that might The only prerequisites for seat-tube honing or ream-
be done separately, or together, to improve the fit of a ing are the ability to remove and install a seat post and
seat post in the frame. One procedure is honing, which the ability to determine whether a seat post is the correct
removes corrosion and minor irregularities from the inside size for the seat tube.
of the seat tube. The other procedure is reaming, which
restores roundness and removes large irregularities from
the inside of the seat tube. INDICATIONS
Symptoms indicating need of honing
Rust or corrosion on the seat post definitely indicates
the need for honing.
GENERAL INFORMATION Difficult removal or installation of the seat post is a
definite indicator that the seat tube needs honing, and per-
TERMINOLOGY haps reaming as well. If not caused by rust or corrosion, this
symptom is caused by imperfections inside the seat tube.
Compression slot: The slot that allows the top of
Although the tube probably started out smooth and round
the seat tube to close down around the seat post when
inside, the process of welding or brazing tubes together can
the seat-post-binder mechanism is tightened.
deform a seat tube by making it out-of-round or by intro-
Expansion reamer: A reamer that has an adjustable
ducing bulges of material inside the tube on the back side
diameter.
of each weld; these bulges are called weld penetrations.
Hone: The name of a tool (and the process of using it)
that polishes the inside of a cylinder, such as a seat tube. Symptoms indicating need of reaming
Ream: Cutting material from the inside of a tube. If after honing a seat tube it is still difficult to install
The tool used to do this is a reamer. the correct size of seat post, then it needs reaming.
Seat lug: The joint in the frame where the seat
tube and top tube join; usually the seat stays join at
this point as well.
TOOL CHOICES
The size of the stem or seat tube to be honed or
Seat post: The post that connects the seat to the
reamed determines the size of hone or reamer required.
frame (seat tube).
All sizes are common, and all tools in the below list
Seat tube: The portion of the frame into which the
(table 7-1) are recommended.
seat post inserts.
SEAT-TUBE HONE AND REAMER TOOLS (table 7-1)

Flex Hone BC20 13/16"–7/8" (BMX), fits common fork columns also
Flex Hone BC22 7/8"–15/16" (BMX), fits larger fork columns also
Flex Hone BC25.4 25.0–27.4mm seat tubes
Flex Hone AL25.4 25.0–27.4mm aluminum seat tubes
Flex Hone BC27 26.4mm–28.0mm seat tubes
Flex Hone BC29 Oversize seat tubes up to 31.6mm
Chadwick & Trefethen 26 20.64–22.23mm seat-tube reamer
7–1
TIME AND DIFFICULTY Wrong size seat post

Honing a seat tube is a 2–3 minute job of little dif- Reaming is not used to enlarge a seat tube to fit a seat
ficulty. Reaming a seat tube is a moderately difficult job post larger than the one designed for that particular frame.
that can take 5–20 minutes, depending on the amount of On the other hand, just because a seat post is difficult to
material that needs to be removed. install does not necessarily mean that the seat post is too
large. Obstructions in the seat tube will make a correctly
sized seat post seem as though it is too large.
COMPLICATIONS If reaming were used to fit a seat post that is too large,
Aluminum the job would take an unbelievably long time to complete,
There are no problems with reaming aluminum seat and there would be a stress riser in the seat tube at the
tubes, but there are problems with the honing process. The lowest edge of where the reaming was done.
grit material for honing aluminum is completely different
than the material used for steel. The Flex Hone AL25.4
is available for aluminum seat tubes of conventional size,
but there is currently no hone available for under- or SEAT-TUBE HONING AND
over-sized seat tubes.
REAMING PROCEDURE
Titanium 1. [ ] Measure seat post to determine correct size
Hones or reamers suitable for use on titanium seat of hone to use.
tubes currently do not exist. To keep messy cutting oil and metal fragments from
collecting in the bottom bracket or at the bottom of the
Carbon fiber/composites seat tube, position the frame so that it is uphill to the bot-
Carbon fiber or composite seat tubes are unsuited to tom bracket from the top of the seat tube.
being honed or reamed. If there is an aluminum insert in 2. [ ] Position frame so top end of seat tube is
the seat tube, then it may be honed. lower than bottom end of seat tube.
Deformed seat-lug/seat-tube top 3. [ ] Install hone in drill and coat hone with cut-
ting oil or honing oil.
If an under-sized seat post has been installed in the
In the next step the hone is inserted in the frame fully
frame, then the top of the seat tube may be deformed.
before starting the drill. Oil will be slung everywhere if the
This is easy to check and correct. The compression-slot
drill is started while the hone is outside the seat tube.
width should be uniform (see figure 7.1). If it is more
4. [ ] Insert hone fully into seat tube, then start
narrow at the top than the bottom, then insert a broad drill (moderate speed).
slotted screwdriver in the compression slot and lever it A hone will polish away roughness, but it will not cut
open before beginning honing or reaming. away lumps of excess metal or restore a non-round seat tube
to round. What polishing it can do can always be accom-
plished in 20–30 seconds. Any more time spent honing is a
waste of time. Most of the help needed is in the top two to
three inches of seat tube, so spend the time there and just
make a quick pass to the full depth of the hone.
5. [ ] Hone for 20–30 seconds in seat lug and
joint of top-tube and seat-tube area.
6. [ ] Insert spinning hone to its limit and pull back
up to top of seat tube.
7. [ ] Stop drill and remove hone from seat tube.
In the next step, progress is checked by inserting the
seat post. Corrosion should be cleaned out first.
8. [ ] Insert seat post to check for resistance to
insertion.
9. [ ] If excessive resistance remains after honing,
select appropriately sized expansion reamer.
7.1 If the seat-tube compression slot is narrower at 10. [ ] Adjust expansion-reamer blades up or down
the top, like the one in this drawing, the slot should be
expanded before attempting honing or reaming. until reamer inserts easily but does not jiggle
inside seat tube (see figure 7.2).
7–2
14. [ ] If seat post was too difficult to install,
adjust upper expansion-reamer collar 1/4
turn up, then lower expansion-reamer collar
1/4 turn up.
15. [ ] Coat blades with cutting oil and insert
expansion reamer into seat tube.
Shallow slot 16. [ ] Rotate expansion reamer clockwise until it is
effortless to turn.
17. [ ] Remove expansion reamer.
A 18. [ ] Repeat steps 13–17 as many times as nec-
essary until seat post is a satisfactory fit.
After completing the reaming, it is advisable to use
the hone one more time to smooth the inside surface of
the seat tube to prevent any further galling.
19. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7.
20. [ ] Stuff a rag or a wind-instrument swab inside
seat tube to clean out oil and cuttings.
Blade
Deep slot
7.2 An expansion reamer with a blade removed to

show the sloped slot that is shallower at the top end of
the tool. Adjust A up, then B up to enlarge the reamer.
11. [ ] Squirt cutting oil into seat tube.
12. [ ] Rotate expansion reamer clockwise until it is
effortless to turn.
13. [ ] Test fit seat post.
Expansion reamers can only cut a very small amount
of material at a time. If the expansion adjustment is too
much (more than a 1/4 turn of the collars) the tool will
not fit in the seat tube or will jam when rotated. It is
likely that many small adjustments will be needed to get
the job finished.
7–3
8 – FRAME AND FORK ALIGNMENT AND DAMAGE
Contact
Gap?
Gap?
1mm feeler
gauge

TERMINOLOGY 8–1
PREREQUISITES 8–2
INDICATIONS 8–2
TOOL CHOICES 8–3
COMPLICATIONS 8–3
REAR-TRIANGLE-ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE 8–4
PARK & VAR FORK-ALIGNMENT JIG PROCEDURE 8–7
PREPARATIONS 8–8
FORE-AND-AFT ALIGNMENT 8–9
WIDTH AND CENTER CORRECTION 8–9
STEIN FORK-ALIGNMENT-JIG PROCEDURE 8 – 10
INSTALLING THE FORK 8 – 10
ALIGNING THE FORK BLADES AND DROPOUTS 8 – 10
DROPOUT-ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE 8 – 11
FRAME AND FORK DAMAGE 8 – 13
TWISTED FRONT TRIANGLE 8 – 13
BUCKLED DOWN TUBE AND TOP TUBE 8 – 13
FRAME AND FORK FATIGUE CRACKS 8 – 13
DENTED TUBES 8 – 14
BOWED STAYS 8 – 14
DAMAGED AXLE SLOT IN REAR DROPOUT 8 – 14
RUSTED FRAME OR FORK 8 – 15
ENLARGED HEAD TUBE 8 – 15
BENT FORK COLUMN 8 – 15
BENT, CRACKED, OR BROKEN FORK-COLUMN THREADS 8 – 16
EXPANDED FORK COLUMN 8 – 16
DAMAGED FORK BLADES 8 – 16
8 – FRAME AND FORK

ALIGNMENT AND DAMAGE
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Dropout: The fittings at the juncture of the seat stays
and the chain stays, or at the bottom of the fork, to which
This chapter has five sections.
the wheel attaches.
The first section is REAR-TRIANGLE ALIGNMENT,
Fork: The structural piece that connects the front
which is designed to be used when there are problems
wheel to the frame.
with rear wheel fit, bicycle tracking, or alignment of the
front and rear gears.
The second section is PARK & VAR FORK-ALIGNMENT- Fork column
JIG PROCEDURE, which is designed to be used when there Fork crown
are problems with front wheel fit or bicycle tracking, and the
available tool is a Park FT-4, Park FCG-1, or VAR 478.
The third section is STEIN FORK-ALIGNMENT-JIG Fork blade
PROCEDURE, which is designed to be used when there are
problems with front wheel fit or bicycle tracking, and the
available tool is the Stein FCG.
The fourth section is DROPOUT ALIGNMENT, which is
designed to be used in conjunction with either the section on Dropout
rear-triangle alignment or fork alignment, or it can be used by 8.1 Parts of the fork.
itself when there are problems with bent axles in hubs.
The fifth section is FRAME AND FORK DAMAGE, which Fork blades: The two tubes that go on either side
should be used whenever a bike has been in a collision or of the front wheel.
accident or as a guide to routine inspection of bicycles Fork column: The tube at the top of the fork that
for damage as a service to the customer. inserts into the head tube of the frame (also called steerer
tube, steer tube, or steering tube).
Fork crown: The joint, or connecting piece, between
the fork blades and the fork column.
GENERAL INFORMATION Frame: The structural piece, usually a number of
tubes joined together, to which all of the components are
TERMINOLOGY attached (the fork is a component).
Axle slot: The slot in the dropout that the hub axle Top tube
inserts into when mounting the wheel to the frame.
Bottom-bracket shell: The portion of the frame that Head tube
Seat stay
contains the crankset bearings, called the bottom bracket.
Brake bridge: The short piece of tubing joining the
two seat stays together just above the rear wheel.
Chain stay: The two tubes of the frame that go from the Seat tube
lower end of the seat tube to the center of the rear wheel.
Chain stay Down tube
Chain-stay brace: The piece of tubing or flat metal
that joins the chain stays together between the bottom- Dropout
bracket shell and the rear wheel.
Down tube: The lower tube of the frame that extends Bottom-bracket shell
from the bottom of the head tube to the bottom of the 8.2 Parts of the frame.
frame (usually connecting with the bottom-bracket shell).
8–1
Head tube: The near vertical tube that is the forward-
most part of the frame.
INDICATIONS
Hub-over-locknut width: A dimension of the hub Symptoms indicating need
measured from the outer face of one locknut on the axle for centering the rear triangle
to the outer face of the other locknut. The locknuts are or fork blades
the parts of the axle set that butt up against the inside face There are two types of symptoms that indicate that
of the dropouts when the wheel is installed. the rear triangle may need centering, and one of these also
Inside-dropout width: The distance between the indicates that the fork blades may need centering.
inside face of one dropout to the inside face of the The first type of symptom that indicates either the rear
other dropout. triangle and/or the fork blades need centering is a prob-
Rear triangle: The portion of the frame that encloses lem getting the bike to go in a straight line without undue
the rear wheel, consisting primarily of the seat stays, chain correction at the handlebars and/or with the rider’s body
stays, and rear dropouts. position. This tracking problem can be caused by many
Seat stay: The two tubes of the frame that go from other things, as well, and most of these should be checked
below the seat to the center of the rear wheel. before considering or attempting rear-triangle or fork-blade
Seat tube: The near vertical tube that is at the middle centering. Other causes of tracking problems include:
of a conventional (non-suspension) frame. Twisted front triangle
Top tube: The upper tube of the frame that extends Mis-dished wheel(s)
back toward the seat from the head tube. Mis-mounted wheel(s)
Mis-aligned fork
PREREQUISITES Out-of-center rear triangle
Damaged or over-tight headset
Wheel removal and installation Out-of-true wheels
Wheel removal and installation are required to align Extremely loose hub bearings
either the fork or the rear triangle. The other set of symptoms that could indicate that
Rear-wheel cog removal the rear triangle needs centering is a problem with chain
The rear cogs must be removed so that the rear hub noise or a problem shifting with the front derailleur.
can be measured. This measurement is used to align the Chainline is affected by rear-triangle alignment, and
rear triangle. Depending on the type of hub, either the there are numerous symptoms of chainline error. See
freewheel will need to be removed or the cogs removed the CHAINLINE chapter (pages 27-3 and 27-5) for more
from a freehub. details about chainline-error symptoms.
The rear triangle or fork blades do not need centering
Crank-arm and bottom-bracket just because there is a measurable centering error. If the
removal and installation error does not create a symptom, then it is a mistake to
The empty bottom-bracket shell must be held in a jig, do an alignment.
or vise, when applying leverage to the rear stays (to align
them). The crank arms must be removed to remove the Symptoms indicating need
bottom bracket and must be installed when the bottom for adjusting rear-triangle
bracket is reinstalled. or fork-blade width
There are two types of symptoms indicating that the
Headset removal and installation rear-triangle or fork-blade width needs to be adjusted:
To align the fork, it is necessary to remove the headset.
difficult wheel removal and difficult wheel installation.
This will also require stem removal and perhaps some
Wheels may be difficult to remove because the axle
brake work.
nuts, or quick release, need to be loosened excessively
before the wheel will remove easily, or even after ade-
quately loosening the retention device, force is required to
get the wheel out of the dropouts. Unless this symptom
is due to the presence of safety-retention lips on the face
of the dropouts, the symptom of excessive loosening of
the retention devices to make it easy to remove the wheel
indicates the width between the dropouts is too great.
8–2
The symptom of difficult wheel removal, even when the
retention devices are loose, indicates the width between
TOOL CHOICES
Which of the following alignment tools will be needed
the dropouts is too narrow.
for a given job is determined by which procedure(s) will be
Wheels may be difficult to install for several reasons.
done. The preferred tool choices in table 8-1 (below) are
The wheel may be difficult to install because the retention
in bold type. The preference is based on a combination of
device (quick release or axle nuts) needs to be loosened
considerations including usability and versatility, economy,
more than was necessary for removal before the wheel will
and tool quality.
install easily. The wheel may be difficult to install because
the wheel requires excessive force to install, even with the
retention devices adequately loosened. The wheel may be COMPLICATIONS
difficult to install because the dropouts require spreading
before the wheel will go in easily. When the retention Aluminum, titanium,
devices need to be loosened more to install the wheel and composite tubing
than they needed to be loosened to remove the wheel, it Aluminum stays or fork blades should not be bent
indicates the dropout-inside width is too wide. When the unless specifically authorized by the frame manufacturer.
wheel is difficult to install even when the retention devices Titanium is simply too difficult to bend and should not
are adequately loose, it indicates that the dropout-inside be attempted. Composites, such as carbon fiber, break
width is too narrow. before they will bend.
Dropout-inside width should not be adjusted just If fit to the wheel is a problem, increase or decrease
because a measurable error exists. There should be a hub width. Wheel fit problems are defined in the preceding
symptom of difficult wheel removal or installation before INDICATIONS section, under the heading Symptoms indi-
any fork or rear-triangle alignment is done. cating need for adjusting rear-triangle or fork-blade width.
If centering is a problem, create a wheel-dish error
Symptoms indicating need in the opposite direction.
for dropout alignment If chainline is a problem, first attempt to correct the
The most likely symptom that indicates that the drop- problem at the chainrings (if possible). If this does not
outs need alignment is a bent or broken axle in a hub. A work, try shifting spacers from one side of the hub to the
bent axle will cause excess bearing wear. other (requiring wheel-dishing corrections).
In extreme cases, mis-aligned dropouts may interfere
with installation of the wheel.
REAR-TRIANGLE, FORK, AND DROPOUT-ALIGNMENT TOOLS (table 8-1)

Used steel bottom- In conjunction with a high-quality vise and heavy-duty bench, a good way to hold
bracket cups in as- the frame by the bottom bracket
sorted thread types
Park FAG-2 Accurately compares relative positions of left and right stays for centering pur-
poses
Park FFS-1 Leverage tool used for bending rear stays and fork blades
Stein FCG Fork-alignment jig fits all sizes of fork columns; should be used with Stein dropout
alignment tools (available separately or as part of set)
VAR 478 Fork-alignment jig fits all sizes of fork columns, not as easy to use as Park FCG-1
Stein FG Fork-alignment gauge used to check whether fork needs alignment before removing
it from bike
Campagnolo H Dropout-alignment tools that are adjusted for width by changing washer locations
for a range of 100–135mm in limited steps
Park FFG-1 Dropout-alignment tools that are adjustable infinitely in 82–150mm range
Stein J Dropout-alignment tools that are adjustable infinitely, clamps very securely by means
of QR levers; calibrated so width can be checked simultaneously
Stein J14 Dropout-alignment tools for BMX/Freestyle dropouts that fit 14mm axles
8–3
Aluminum and titanium dropouts Some dropouts are not flat two-dimensional plates,
It is generally permissible to align aluminum dropouts, but incorporate additional structural material perpen-
but it is advisable to check with the frame manufacturer dicular to the plane of the dropout face. Often this type
first. Titanium dropouts would not be damaged by normal fits like a plug into a large-diameter end to a fork blade.
alignments but are probably too tough to bend with the This type (found on some mountain bikes with rigid forks)
available tools. cannot be aligned.
Excessive misalignment Blade

Whenever the degree of alignment error is high,
concerns arise about whether the metal will be fatigued
by the amount of bending required. There is no way to Dropout
quantify this. The greater concern is the number of times
the tubing gets bent, rather than the amount that it has or
will be bent. Most factory misalignments are not severe
enough to be a concern. Modifying rear triangles to accept
a hub of 5mm greater width should not be a problem; Alignable Un-alignable
however, larger corrections, or corrections necessitated
by collision damage, are a concern. 8.3 The right dropout/fork-blade style makes dropout
alignment impossible because the dropout is not a nar-
Damage row plate where it attaches to the fork blade.
Damage may be present before alignment is
attempted, or damage may result from excessive attempts Dropouts or stays/blades first
to align the stays or fork blades. Inspect before and after If stays or blades are aligned first, and then dropouts,
every alignment job for cracks, wrinkles, or deformations some accuracy to the stay or blade alignment will be lost.
in the shape of the tubing. If dropouts are aligned first, and then stays or blades, then
Unbendable steel tubing when the stays or blades are aligned some accuracy of the
Some steel tubing is so strong that it is virtually dropout alignment will be lost.
unbendable. Oversize fork blades are the most likely can- The normal range of dropout misalignment is not
didate for this problem. In this case, there is a dangerous significant enough to have an unacceptable influence on
risk of bending the fork column while attempting to bend stay or blade alignment, if the dropouts are aligned after
a fork blade. Excessive effort should be avoided. the stays or blades. After doing the alignments in this order,
if it is found that the dropouts were severely misaligned,
Suspension forks and rear triangles then it is necessary to check and correct the stay or blade
Suspension forks cannot be aligned. alignment again, and then the dropouts again.
Frames with pivoting rear-suspension structures can
be aligned, as long as they are made from steel. However,
steel is the least common material used for this application.
If the rear-suspension structure is made of steel, but is
attached to a main frame made of aluminum or composite
REAR-TRIANGLE-
materials, alignment should not be done. ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE
Unbendable dropouts Even when symptoms indicate that there is a need to
The design of some dropouts makes them virtually correct width error only or centering error only, a proce-
impossible to align. A conventional dropout is basically dure should be used that corrects both. The reason for
two-dimensional and “necks-down” (gets narrower) this is that if only one type of error exists, it is possible
between the main body of the dropout and the stays and likely that the other error will be created while cor-
or blade to which it attaches. This type can always be recting the original error.
aligned. The following procedure is designed to diminish any
Some BMX/Freestyle dropouts are simply so thick existing centering error while starting out with a width-
and strong that the dropout alignment tools will break error correction. The procedure is based on the assump-
before the dropouts will bend. If these dropouts fit 14mm tion that any width error of more than 1mm would create
axles, then the Stein J14 tool is suitable for performing a symptom. After correcting a width error, if the remaining
dropout alignment without damage to the tool.
8–4
centering error is not significant, then there would be no Over-locknut width
point in correcting any remaining centering error.
Preparation
remove rear wheel, gears from rear wheel,
crankset, and bottom bracket.
There are two good ways to clamp the frame by the
bottom bracket while performing a rear-triangle alignment.
One method requires one of two discontinued Park tools:
the FRS or the FRS/RS. The other method requires some 8.4 Measure hub-over-locknut width with calipers.
used bottom-bracket cups and a solid bench vise. 3. [ ] Measure hub-over-locknut width and record
If a Park FRS or FRS/RS is available, mount the frame here: _________mm
to the clamp. This gives a very stable mounting with an In the next step, when measuring dropout-inside width,
unlimited range of adjustments, enabling a comfortable to reduce the error created by mis-aligned dropouts, mea-
and effective working position. sure on the surfaces where the hub locknuts touch as close
The alternative is to thread some used steel cups into as possible to the juncture of the dropout to the stays.
the bottom-bracket shell (as deeply as possible without
recessing the face of the cups in the ends of the shell) and
clamp the cup faces into a bench vise. A sturdy bench and
top-quality vise are necessary. The range of adjustment to
put the frame in a good working position is more limited
with this frame-holding technique.
2. [ ] Clamp frame securely by faces of bottom-
bracket shell.
Before making any corrections, it is necessary to
know all the existing problems with width error and Dropout-inside width
centering error. Width error is checked by measuring the
hub-over-locknut width and comparing it to the dropout- 8.5 Measure dropout-inside width with calipers.
inside width. Centering error is checked with a tool called 4. [ ] Measure dropout-inside width and record
the Park FAG-2. here: _________mm
The Park FAG-2 is used by putting the adjustable Compare the hub-over-locknut width to the dropout-
end at the dropout, the end of the flat section (near the inside width to conclude whether the existing dropout-
curve of the FAG-2) against the seat tube, and the non- inside width is wider or narrower than the hub-over-
adjustable end at the head tube. The adjustable end is then locknut width.
adjusted so that contact is achieved at all three points. 5. [ ] Compare measurements to determine if
When positioning and setting the Park FAG-2, four things frame is: wide[ ] narrow[ ] good[ ].
should be kept in mind. (If “good” go to step 9.)
The end of the tool at the head tube needs to rest In the next step, the FAG-2 is used to check for a
on a flat portion of the tube. centering error (see figures 8.6 and 8.7, page 8-6). No
The adjustable end of the tool at the dropout matter which side you start on, when the FAG-2 is trans-
should be positioned so that the tip is on the ferred to the second side there may be no gap at the seat
surface that the axle nut or quick release nut tube or dropout (centering is perfect); a gap might be
clamps against, preferably at a point close to the detected at the dropout; or a gap might be detected at
juncture of the stays. the seat tube (indicating that the procedure should be
The curve of the tool should not be against the started over from the other side).
seat tube. Extend the indicator further out if the
curve of the bar touches the seat tube.
Pressure against the long flat portion of the tool
between the seat stay and head tube easily dis-
torts the tool. Hold the tool close to the seat
tube to avoid this.
8–5
Contact Width correction

In the next step, whether to bend a stay in or out to
correct the width error is decided. Which stay is best to
bend also needs to be decided. If the dropout width is
too narrow, then obviously it makes sense to bend a stay
out. If the dropout width is too wide, then a stay should
be bent in. If bending a stay in, then it should be on the
side where the FAG-2 contacted the dropout. If bending
a stay out, then it should be on the side where the FAG-2
Contact showed a gap at the dropout. These choices ensure that
centering error will probably not be worsened while cor-
recting the width error and will generally be improved.
NOTE: Always attempt to bend stays with just
hands and start with very low effort on the
Adjust assumption that they will be easy to bend. If
they do not respond, then gradually increase
effort. If they are too difficult to bend by hand,
then use the Park FFS-1 leverage tool on the
chain stay to provide greater leverage.
Contact
7. [ ] If frame is wide: Adjust non-gap side inward
until correct width (±.5mm) is achieved.
8.6 Position the flat portion of the FAG-2 against the
head tube and the seat tube, and the adjustable tip of
the tool against the forward portion of the surface that
the axle nut/quick release nut clamps against.
Contact Wide
Move amount needed
Gap
to make width correct
8.8 This diagram shows width correction if the drop-

outs are too wide and the FAG-2 shows a gap on the
right side. Use calipers to track progress.
8. [ ] If frame is narrow: Adjust gap side outward

until correct width (±.5mm) is achieved.
Gap?
Narrow
Move amount needed Gap
to make width correct
8.9 This diagram shows width correction if the

dropouts are too narrow and the FAG-2 shows a gap on
the right side. Use calipers to track progress.
Gap?
8.7 Transfer the FAG-2 to the second side, then check

Centering correction
if there is a gap between the tool and the frame at the
In the next step, the FAG-2 is again used to deter-
seat tube or dropout. mine on which side the gap (at the dropout) is found.
Typically, this is on the original side where the gap was
6. [ ] Use FAG-2 to determine side of frame with found, but in cases in which the width error was sub-
gap at dropout: right[ ] left[ ] none[ ]. stantially larger than the centering error, it is possible
(If “none” go to step 17.) that the gap will transfer to the other side.
8–6
When measuring the gap between the tool tip and the Simple width-error correction
dropout face, either use the inside-width jaws of a caliper, 17. [ ] Subtract frame inside width (step 4) from
or try a stack of feeler gauges when the gap is small and over-locknut width (step 3) and record dif-
the caliper is awkward to position correctly. ference here:_______ (Be sure to indicate
positive or negative difference.)
18. [ ] Divide error noted in step 17 by 2, then
FAG-2 record result here:______
NOTE: Indicate positive or negative!
19. [ ] Set feeler-gauge stack to equal amount
Dropout in step 18 to within ±.05mm. NOTE: For
larger amounts, caliper may be preferable.
Feeler gauges 20. If answer in step 18 is positive:
[ ] Set FAG-2 to contact feeler-gauge stack
held against dropout face, then lock FAG-2
setting.
[ ] Adjust frame on this side until gap is
reduced to <.5mm.
8.10 To measure the gap between the tip of the [ ] Transfer still-locked FAG-2 to opposite
FAG-2 and the dropout, use a feeler gauge or stack of side of frame and align second side until gap
feeler gauges when a caliper won’t fit. is reduced to <.5mm.
9. [ ] Use FAG-2 to determine on which side [ ] Recheck first side and adjust if necessary.
gap is found at dropout, then measure gap 21. If answer in step 18 is negative:
between dropout and tool. right[ ] left[ ] [ ] Set FAG-2 to contact one side of frame.
Record gap measurement here: _______ [ ] Adjust frame until stack of feeler gauges
10. [ ] Divide gap measurement from previous step fits between frame and FAG-2 to <.5mm.
by 2 and record result here: _______ [ ] Transfer tool to other side and repeat
11. [ ] Set feeler gauge stack to equal amount in process without changing original FAG-2
step 8 to within ±.05mm. Note: For larger setting.
amounts, caliper may be preferable. [ ] Recheck first side and adjust if necessary.
In the next step, the FAG-2 is adjusted so that the
caliper (or feeler-gauge stack) setting determined in the
previous step just fits between the dropout and the tool
tip, and then the tool is locked. Ideally, this tool setting PARK & VAR FORK-
reflects the final location for each dropout that will simul-
taneously achieve acceptable width and center.
ALIGNMENT-JIG PROCEDURE
12. [ ] On side of frame where gap was found at The Park tools are no longer manufactured, but
dropout, adjust FAG-2 until feeler gauge they are common in many older bike shops. The VAR
stack just fits between dropout and tool, tool is still manufactured. The procedures for using the
then lock FAG-2 at this setting. two brands are similar. When differences are significant,
NOTE: After setting and locking the FAG-2 in step the procedure specifies whether a step applies specifi-
12, it should not be changed for any reason in cally to one tool or the other.
steps 13–16! Even when symptoms indicate that there is need
13. [ ] Adjust frame on gap side until gap at FAG-2 to correct only width error or only centering error,
is <.5mm. a procedure should be used that corrects both. The
14. [ ] Without changing FAG-2 setting, transfer
reason for this is that if only one type of error exists,
FAG-2 to other side of frame, then adjust
frame until gap at FAG-2 is <.5mm. it is likely that the other error will be created while
15. [ ] Go back and forth between both sides until correcting the original error.
both are good. The following procedure is designed to correct both
16. Remeasure width error (steps 3–5). types of error simultaneously. The procedure is based on
[ ] If width error is >1mm, enter error the assumption that any width or centering error of more
amount in step 17 and continue. than 1mm would create a tracking problems or wheel-fit
[ ] If width error is not >1mm, alignment problem. If, after correcting a centering error, the remain-
is done. ing width error creates no additional symptom(s) (check
8–7
by installing and removing wheel), then there would be no but with the other models make sure that the clamp of
point in correcting any remaining width error. the jig does not go on the fat portion at the base of the
In addition to centering error and width error, fork fork column or on the fork-crown race.
blades can have a fore-and-aft error. This type of error Do not secure the clamp at this time. It will be secured
exists if one dropout is further forward, compared to the in step #8.
fork crown, than the other dropout. 4. [ ] Slip fork column into jig until crown race or
Although there would be no negative symptoms if fork-column base is against, but not inside,
a fore-and-aft error existed without centering or width jig clamp. Do not secure clamp now!
errors, the existence of a fore-and-aft error can make the In the next two steps, the sliding gauge is set so that it
wheel appear misaligned to the rider when it is not. It is can be used to align the fork in the jig before securing the jig
also inconsistent with good mechanical technique to have clamp. The sliding gauge is positioned above the fork blades,
the fork out and in the jig to align the width and centering just below the point they join the fork crown (or where the
errors, but ignore the fore-and-aft error. blades begin curving inward, if the fork is a unicrown style).
Finally, looking for fore-and-aft error can help identify The sliding gauge must be secured on the main bar before bring-
a fork that has been damaged in a crash or shipping. It is ing it down against the fork blades in step #7.
normal to see a fore-and-aft error of up to about 2mm. 5. [ ] Move sliding gauge to position that will con-
tact fork blades just below fork crown.
If significantly more error than this is seen, then it is likely
6. [ ] Secure sliding gauge.
that the fork is damaged. The fork should be inspected 7. [ ] Swing main bar down until sliding gauge is
thoroughly before proceeding further. firmly against both fork blades.
With the sliding gauge positioned and secure, and the
PREPARATIONS fork still loose in the clamp, applying pressure down on
the main bar will automatically bring the fork into proper
remove fork from bike. rotational alignment. Maintain the downward pressure
In the next step, front-hub-over-locknut width is mea- while securing the fork clamp in the next step.
sured with calipers and recorded. It is not necessary, but It is easy for the fork to slip in the clamp while bend-
would be handy if the calipers were locked at this setting ing the blades, so get the clamp as tight as possible. The
until step #16 is completed. design of the clamp mechanism insures that the fork
column will not be crushed.
Over-locknut width
Fork clamp Sliding-gauge Sliding gauge Main bar
clamp
4
3
2
1
Fork
Park FT-4 or FCG-1
Vise
8.11 Measure front-hub-over-locknut width with calipers.
8.12 Perform in order: 1. Position sliding gauge.
2. [ ] Measure front-hub-over-locknut width 2. Secure sliding-gauge clamp. 3. Press downward on
(front-hub-over locknut width: ________mm). main bar. 4. While maintaining pressure on main bar,
Align and secure fork in jig secure fork clamp.
The Park FCG-1 has three interchangeable clamping 8. [ ] While holding main bar firmly down, secure
blocks for 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" fork columns. The fork clamp.
older Park FT-4 fits 1" only, and the VAR 478 fits all sizes
without changing blocks.
3. [ ] Park FCG-1 only: Secure correct block inside FORE-AND-AFT ALIGNMENT
Park FCG-1 body. 9. [ ] Move sliding gauge into axle slots, if pos-
Depending on the brand and model of fork jig used sible, or over leading edge of dropout if not.
in the next step, it is possible to insert the fork column too Secure to main bar.
far into the jig. This is not possible with the Park FCG-1,
8–8
10. [ ] Move main bar until bottom surface of one then use the Park FFS-1 leverage tool with a
end of sliding gauge contacts a dropout. conservative effort initially.
NOTE: With VAR tool, it may be necessary 13. [ ] Using the FFS-1 only if necessary, bend one
to place a machinist's rule or similar device blade until difference at each end of sliding
on bottom side of sliding gauge to extend gauge is <1mm.
gauge out to dropout. 14. [ ] Move sliding gauge back to just below fork
crown, secure, and check that there is still
two-point contact when the sliding gauge is
swung down to contact the blades. Reset
fork in jig as necessary to re-establish two-
point contact.
1mm feeler
gauge
WIDTH AND CENTER
CORRECTION
Determine correct end location
for each dropout inner face
In the next step, the caliper is set to the hub’s over-
locknut width and then held up against the sliding gauge
and centered to the sliding gauge.
15. [ ] Park only: Set calipers to hub-over-locknut
width recorded in step 2.
VAR only: Calculate difference between
hub width and sliding gauge width, then
create feeler-gauge stack to equal half of
width difference.
8.13 Use feeler gauge to check gap between dropout 16. [ ] Park only: Hold caliper jaws against sliding
and sliding gauge to check if gap (if any) exceeds 1mm. gauge and determine location at which cali-
11. [ ] Check with feeler gauge(s) to see if gap at per jaws line up with marks on sliding gauge
other end of sliding gauge exceeds 1mm. when caliper is centered to gauge.
12. [ ] Park only: If gap exceeds 1mm, turn jig in vise
so that one side-mounting plate is in vise.
Align blades to correct width and center
17. [ ] Park only: Align each blade so that inner face
of each dropout ends up directly in line with
points on sliding gauge determined in step 16.
VAR only: With sliding gauge positioned
between dropouts, align each blade so that
feeler-gauge stack just fits between ends of
gauge and each dropout.
18. [ ] Measure dropout-inside width: ________mm
19. [ ] Difference between over-locknut width and
dropout-inside width is: _____________mm
20. [ ] If difference is ≤1mm, alignment is done.
21. [ ] If difference is >1mm, move both blades in
or out equally until difference is ≤1mm.
Vise The force of aligning the blades can cause the fork
column to twist in the clamp. In the next step, whether
8.14 Turn the jig on its side to bend fork blades fore- this has happened is checked, and if two-point contact
and-aft. with the sliding gauge is not still occurring at the top of
the fork blades, then the fork needs repositioning and the
NOTE: Always attempt to bend blades with just alignment should be redone.
hands, and start with very low effort on the 22. [ ] Make sure fork is still aligned in jig correctly
assumption that they will be easy to bend. If when all blade alignments are done. If not,
they do not respond, then gradually increase reset fork in jig and repeat steps 17–22.
effort. If they are too difficult to bend by hand,
8–9
23. [ ] Use appropriate procedure/worksheet to 3. [ ] Securely clamp main bar in vise just below
align dropouts if desired. black clamping plates.
24. [ ] Use appropriate procedure/worksheet to 4. [ ] Position crown aligner on main bar so
install fork and stem. that triangle points down and so aligner is
located under where fork crown will be.
5. [ ] Liberally loosen 19mm bolt on top of clamp
and install fork (face up) into clamp.
STEIN FORK-ALIGNMENT- 6. [ ] Secure 19mm bolt until fork will just twist in
clamp but no play (slop) can be felt.
JIG PROCEDURE 7. [ ] Slide crown aligner along main bar until it is
just below top end of fork blades.
The Stein FCG fork clamp and gauge, used in con-
8. [ ] Secure bottom bolt of crown aligner.
junction with the Stein J-style dropout alignment tools, 9. [ ] Tighten top bolt of crown aligner to bring
employs a unique method to precisely align forks. aligner up to contact both fork blades, which
Even when symptoms indicate that there is need to aligns fork to jig.
correct only width error or only centering error, a pro- 10. [ ] Secure 19mm bolt on top of clamp so that
cedure should be used that corrects both. The reason fork will not move in jig.
for this is that if only one type of error exists it is likely
that the other error will be created while correcting the
original error. ALIGNING THE FORK BLADES
The following procedure is designed to correct both AND DROPOUTS
types of error simultaneously. The procedure is based on 11. [ ] Position knurled cylinders on J-tools (drop-
the assumption that any width or centering error of more out alignment tools) so that inward ends of
than 1mm would create a tracking problems or wheel-fit knurled cylinders align with “Front/R120”
problems. After correcting a centering error, if the remain- calibration lines. Do not use the “No Gauge”
ing width error creates no additional symptom(s) (check set of calibrations. (If front hub is not stan-
dard width, compensate knurled cylinder
by installing and removing wheel), then there would be no
positions on each J-tool by half of difference
point in correcting any remaining width error. between actual hub width and 100mm.)
In addition to centering error and width error, fork 12. [ ] Install J-tools fully and securely into dropouts
blades can have a fore-and-aft error. This type of error (10mm fat spacers go outward of dropouts).
exists if one dropout is further forward compared to the 13. [ ] Adjust gauge on main bar so that 19mm-
fork crown than the other dropout. long target cylinder is positioned between
Although there would be no negative symptoms if faces of J-tools (bend fork blade outward
a fore-and-aft error existed without centering or width to allow knurled cylinder to clear target cyl-
errors, the existence of a fore-and-aft error can make the inder, if necessary).
wheel appear misaligned to the rider when it is not. It is 14. [ ] Apply leverage to J-tools until faces of
knurled cylinders are parallel to faces of tar-
also inconsistent with good mechanical technique to have
get cylinder.
the fork out and in the jig to align the width and centering NOTE: Always attempt to bend blades with just
errors, but ignore the fore-and-aft error. hands and start with very low effort on the
Finally, looking for fore-and-aft error can help identify assumption that they will be easy to bend. If
a fork that has been damaged in a crash or shipping. It is they do not respond, then gradually increase
normal to see a fore-and-aft error of up to about 2mm. effort. If they are too difficult to bend by hand,
If significantly more error than this is seen, then it is likely then use the Park FFS-1 leverage tool with a
that the fork is damaged. The fork should be inspected conservative effort initially.
thoroughly before proceeding further. 15. [ ] If either knurled cylinder ends up higher or
lower than target cylinder, bend fork blade
up or down until alignment is achieved.
INSTALLING THE FORK 16. [ ] Bend each blade in or out as necessary until
NOTE: Use appropriate procedures/worksheets to 1mm clearance exists between inside face
remove fork from bike. of each knurled cylinder and faces of target
1. [ ] Measure front-hub-over-locknut width cylinder. When 1mm clearance exists on
(front-hub-over-locknut width: ________mm). each side, dropouts are correct width, and
2. [ ] Fully loosen both bolts on triangular crown dropouts are centered to fork axis.
aligner.
8 – 10
17. [ ] Move knurled cylinders close to target cyl-
inder, then apply leverage to J-tool handles
to fine-tune parallel of knurled cylinder faces
to target cylinder faces, as necessary.
install fork and stem.
8.15 Simple offset error.
DROPOUT-ALIGNMENT
PROCEDURE
If performing dropout alignment before fork-blade Gap and offset
or rear-triangle alignment, then dropout alignment may 8.16 Offset error and gap-spread error combined.
need to be redone. This is certainly the case if fork blades
have been aligned in the fore-and-aft respect. When offset error is slight, check whether it is tolerable
If performing dropout alignment after fork-blade or by placing a .5mm feeler gauge on the lower cylinder. If the
rear-triangle alignment, then fork-blade or rear-triangle top of the feeler gauge is even with the other cylinder or
alignment may need to be redone after the dropout align- above the other cylinder, offset error is in tolerance.
ment. This is only likely if the dropouts were found to be .5mm feeler gauge
severely misaligned.
All brands of dropout-alignment tools have a fat
spacer washer 10–13mm thick that goes outside the
dropouts on front dropouts and inside the dropouts on
rear dropouts. When securing the dropout-alignment tools
to the dropouts, make sure that they are fully inserted and
do not squirm out of position while being secured. They 8.17 Use a feeler gauge to check whether the offset
do not need to be secured very tightly. error is in tolerance. This example shows unacceptable
offset error because the offset is more than .5mm.
1. [ ] Insert tools in dropouts and secure.
The alignment cylinders should be as close to each Correct offset by applying leverage to one tool handle
other as possible without touching. With Park FFG-1 tools, only, until offset is reduced to acceptable. If there is also
simply rotate the alignment cylinders so that they thread a gap-spread error, it is possible to correct offset in a
closer or further apart as needed. With Stein J tools, sim- direction that also reduces gap-spread error. If there is
ply slide the knurled cylinders in or out on the calibrated no gap-spread error initially, correcting offset error will
cylinders. With Campagnolo H tools, shift washers from introduce gap-spread error unavoidably.
one face of the dropout to the other to adjust spacing. For
fine-tuning the Campagnolo H tools, 1mm rear hub axle
spacers can be added to the tool on either, or both, sides.
2. [ ] Adjust so that alignment cylinders are close
but not touching.
There are two types of misalignments that will be
seen at the ends of the alignment cylinders. These will be
called offset and gap spread. Both of these misalignments
need to be checked from two perspectives: viewed from
in front and from above. 8.18 Correct offset error by applying leverage to one
tool only until error is reduced to acceptable.
Offset is when one cylinder edge is offset to the clos-
est edge of the other cylinder. The following illustrations 3. [ ] If offset between cylinders viewed from in
show simple offset error (figure 8.15) and combined offset front exists, bend one side to reduce offset
to .5mm or less.
and gap-spread error (figure 8.16).
Gap spread should only be corrected when there is
no offset error. The folling illustration (figure 8.20) shows
a simple gap-spread error.
8 – 11
It is easy to mess up the original alignments
while doing the second set. Steps #8 and #9 have
you recheck everything.
8. [ ] Check and repeat steps 3 & 4 if necessary.
9. [ ] Check and repeat steps 5 & 6 if necessary.
Gap 10. [ ] Recheck rear-triangle or fork-blade alignment
8.19 Simple gap-spread error. if dropout misalignment was severe.
To measure a gap-spread error, adjust the alignment

cylinders until they are just touching (Park FFG-1), and
use a feeler gauge to measure the gap at the widest point.
Less than or equal to .5mm is good. With Campagnolo
FRAME AND FORK
tools, the alignment cylinders cannot be set to contact,
so use a feeler gauge at the closest and widest points and
DAMAGE
calculate the difference.
The easiest way to fix a gap-spread error is to grab TWISTED FRONT TRIANGLE
both tool handles simultaneously and bend them the same When a front triangle of a frame is twisted, the
direction the same amount at the same time. If they don’t head tube is not in the plane of the seat tube. Since the
bend equally, then a slight offset error will be created, front wheel is in the same plane as the head tube and
which can be corrected after the fact. the rear wheel is in the same plane as the seat tube, the
two wheels are in different planes. When the wheels are
in different planes, the bike will have a tendency to pull
to one side.
Identifying a twisted front triangle
The key to identifying a twisted front triangle is know-
ing when to look for it, since it is not usually obvious dur-
ing casual observation. Lateral impact to the front end is
what does the damage. This impact is not directly to the
8.20 Fix a gap error by applying leverage to both tools head tube but through the wheel and fork or through the
at once, in the same direction (both up or both down). handlebars. When fork blades are bent dramatically to the
4. [ ] If gap spread (viewed from in front) is not side or handlebars are crushed from the side, it is time to
in tolerance from top to bottom, bend both inspect for a twisted front triangle.
sides equally in same direction until gap- To inspect, put the bike in a bike stand so that the seat
spread difference is .5mm or less. tube is vertical, rather than laid back. Put a magnetic base
After eliminating offset and gap-spread errors angle finder on the side of the head tube and the side of
evident when viewing the alignment cylinders from the seat tube. Ideally, these two should be identical. If the
in front, the process needs to be repeated viewing the angles are different by less than one degree it should be
alignment cylinders from a viewpoint 90° away, such as no problem. More than one degree of difference probably
from directly above. indicates damage, and two or more degrees is a certain
5. [ ] If offset between cylinders viewed from indicator of damage.
above exists, bend one side to reduce offset
to .5mm or less. Repair of twisted front triangles
6. [ ] If gap spread (viewed from above) is not There are two approaches to repair a twisted front
in tolerance from front to back, bend both triangle, neither of which would be considered standard
sides equally in same direction until gap- shop operating procedure.
spread difference is .5mm or less. Using a frame builder’s frame table, it is possible to
It’s quite possible that the alignment tools have shifted insert a leverage bar into the head tube and twist it back.
in the dropouts during all the bending. In the next step, This is not recommended because the original damage
they are loosened and re-installed to check if the adjust- meant that either the down tube or top tube became
ments are still good. twisted over its length. Twisting the head tube will not
7. [ ] Loosen and resecure both tools.
untwist the damaged tube; it will simply twist another
tube in an offsetting direction. The result is a frame that
ends up stressed and unstable.
8 – 12
A frame builder can repair the damage by replacing
the top tube or down tube, as necessary. This is rarely
financially feasible and is certainly a job for a professional
frame builder and not a bicycle repair shop.
BUCKLED DOWN TUBE

AND TOP TUBE
Frontal impact can easily buckle the top tube and/
or the down tube. This type of damage is not obvious
through casual observation, but it is easily spotted if the
correct warning signs are known.
Identifying buckled down tubes 8.22 The bulge on the bottom side of this tube indi-
and top tubes cates it is damaged from frontal impact.
Down tubes and top tubes become buckled during
any type of frontal impact. This impact usually damages Repair of buckled down tubes
the fork in some way, either bending the blades back or and top tubes
the fork column back. Anytime either of these condi- The obvious consequence of this type of damage is
tions are detected, the down and top tubes should be that the head-tube angle is steeper and the front wheel has
inspected for buckling. moved further back, often so much so that the rider’s feet
Even when there is no apparent fork damage, there or the pedals or crank interfere with the front wheel when
are some good warning signs to look for. When tubes are it is turned to the side. The Park HTS-1 is designed to push
buckled, it usually damages the paint on the tube directly the head-tube angle back, but it does not repair the damage.
opposite the buckle. Any cracks or chips in the paint on the The real problem with these buckled tubes is not the
top of the down tube or on the top tube directly behind change of head-tube angle, but the buckling itself, which
the head tube are signs that the tubes have been flexed causes a stress riser in the tubing. A stress riser is an irregu-
severely and probably have buckled. larity in a structural piece that causes stress to localize in the
area of the irregularity, rather than distribute more evenly
over the entire piece. This concentration of stress leads to
premature metal fatigue and ultimately leads to failure.
The only legitimate repair, consequently, is to have the
Chips and cracks here
damaged tubes replaced by a frame builder. This option
is rarely financially sensible.
When buckled tubes are detected, always advise the
customer the bike is unrideable and unrepairable.
FRAME AND FORK FATIGUE

CRACKS
Fatigue cracks can occur at any time, anywhere in a
Inspect here
metal structure. They are most likely to occur in the areas
of highest stress, but poor design or construction tech-
8.21 Paint cracks indicate the top tube may be buckled.
Inspect opposite the cracks for any bulge or deformity.
nique can lead to cracks in relatively unstressed areas.
The optimum time to inspect for fatigue cracks is any
On the underside of these tubes, directly behind the head time the frame is being cleaned.
tube, is where the buckling would be found. Any bulge or What is most consistent about fatigue cracks is that
deformity in this area means the tube is buckled. they almost always occur near joints. The inspection should
focus on all the joint areas of the frame and fork:
Anywhere the design of the frame creates a stress
riser
8 – 13
Anywhere damage to the frame or fork creates a
stress riser
DAMAGED AXLE SLOT
On or near the dropouts IN REAR DROPOUT
Anywhere on the head tube When a rear derailleur is shifted past the innermost gear
Both ends of the down tube and caught by the rear wheel, it can damage the axle slot in
Bottom of the seat tube the right-rear dropout by spreading it open. If the derailleur
Front end of the chain stays hanger is the type that is replaceable, then your initial effort
All around the seat lug should be to install a replacement, and repair should only
Top end of the fork blades be attempted if there is no replacement available.
Where the fork column enters the fork crown This damage can look very severe and still be repairable.
Fatigue cracks often just appear as paint cracks; Even if cracks are evident before or after, repair reliability is
however, not all paint cracks indicate metal fatigue. not an issue because the stressed and cracked area does not
Chip away cracked paint to inspect for cracks in the normally experience any significant load during riding.
metal below, particularly if the cracked paint is in one The rule of thumb when dealing with this problem is
of the areas listed above. to tell the customer that the frame should be considered a
loss, but there is a simple repair that can be attempted that
DENTED TUBES is quite effective as long as the dropout does not break in
two during the repair.
The location and severity of a dent in a tube deter- There are two tricks to the repair. First, the dropout
mines the extent of the problem. A dent near a joint is must be sandwiched firmly between two surfaces so that
more of a concern than somewhere near the middle of a it does not collapse sideways while being pushed back. A
tube. A dent with a crease is far worse than a dent without dropout-alignment tool supplies the necessary support.
a crease. Dents with creases or near a frame joint are likely Second, the hole for the derailleur-mounting bolt must be
locations for fatigue cracks. filled to prevent it from collapsing while force is applied
There is no reason to repair a non-significant dent to the dropout through the derailleur hanger.
except cosmetics. The technique for removing the dent
will damage the paint and also require the use of a fill-
ing compound to completely eliminate the dent. Unless
prepared to go as far as a paint job, there is no point in
trying to reduce or eliminate dents in tubes.
Critical dents cannot be repaired except by tube replace-
10.5mm
ment by a frame builder, which is rarely financially sensible.
14mm
BOWED STAYS
Bowed stays are an uncommon form of damage,
which can look quite severe, but they are actually very
repairable. Typically it is the seat stays that are bowed, but
occasionally it is the chain stays.
A bowed stay is displaced from its normal path in
a gradual curve. Sharp bends or wrinkled tubing fall 8.23 This is a damaged axle slot resulting from the
under the category of severely dented tubing and are derailleur getting caught in the wheel.
not repairable.
A Park SS-1 (no longer available) was a tool specifically
made for pulling the bow out of a stay. Its use is simple
and self explanatory.
After using the SS-1 to correct the bow, full rear-
triangle alignment will be required.
8 – 14
ENLARGED HEAD TUBE

Enlarged head tubes can occur when excessive loads are
experienced from landing hard after the front wheel leaves
the ground or from frontal impact. Usually there will be
some sort of visible flare in the bottom of the head tube
at the front or back, but the most noticeable symptom is
that the cup pressed into the bottom of the head tube has
become loose. The stretched metal cannot be shrunk, so the
only feasible repairs are to install a larger cups (unlikely) or
to fill the space between the head tube and cup somehow.
Dropout-alignment tool Depending on the extent of enlargement it might be pos-
sible to use Loctite RC680 or 660 (Quick Metal) to fill the
Derailleur-mounting bolt gap between the head tube and cup. If these do not work,
there is no other effective repair technique.
Flare
Impact here
8.24 This is the setup for repairing a damaged axle slot.
The repair is done when the width of the slots in
both dropouts are equal. Normal dropout alignment and
derailleur-hanger alignment should be done afterward.
RUSTED FRAME OR FORK 8.25 This head tube is enlarged. Note the flare at the
Rust is not much of a problem as long as it is limited bottom on the front of the head tube.
to a few points where the paint is chipped. Rust that is a
problem cannot usually be seen. It is hidden inside every
tube of the bicycle. BENT FORK COLUMN
When a rust condition exists, there is nothing that can Fork columns get bent back at the bottom from fron-
be done to eliminate it. Prevention has more to do with tal impact; they get bent forward from harsh landings. It
the customer than the mechanic, but if a customer wants is likely that the blades are also bent. Bent blades are only
to know what can be done, the mechanic can advise them one clue that the fork column might be bent. Another clue
of the following tips to prevent rust: is that the headset rotates with a tight/loose pattern (tight
Spray the inside of any accessible tubes with lubri- through part of its rotation and loose through another
cant or a frame-preparation product when the part). Yet another clue is that the fork-crown race appears
bike is new. dropped out of the lower cup, more in the front than in
Avoid submersion in water. the back, or vice versa.
Avoid washing the bike with a hose.
Put a drain hole in the bottom of the bottom-
bracket shell.
Put a drain hole in the top of the bottom-bracket shell
and into the bottom of the seat tube, if the seat
tube is not open to the bottom-bracket shell.
Avoid leaving the seat post out of the frame with-
out covering the top of the seat tube.
8 – 15
a taller stem should be installed. After the fork has been
Crown race dropped replaced, a taller stem allows the rider to maintain his or
lower in front her original handleabar position. If the problem was too
much thread length on the fork column, be sure to install
a fork that has no more than 1.5" of thread after being
cut to size, or use an extra-tall stem that can be inserted
deeper into the original fork column.
EXPANDED FORK COLUMN

An easily overlooked, but dangerous, condition is a
fork column that has been expanded by a too-tight stem
8.26 Crown race dropped lower in front, indicating expander. To secure the stem in the fork, a mechanism
fork column may be bent back from frontal impact. on the stem “enlarges” the stem. If the stem-binder bolt
All of these symptoms have other causes. Their value is tightened too much, the expander can permanently
is only that they lead to further inspection of the fork deform the fork column. The thinned fork-column wall
column by taking the fork out of the bike and holding a is weakened. This weakening happens exactly where loads
straight edge to the front and back of the column. on the stem cause the fork column to flex.
Scratches or gouges here

Bulge
indicate possible bent fork column
8.28 Bulge indicating fork column has been destroyed

by a too-tight stem-binder bolt.
If an expanded fork column is suspected but not
8.27 The gap between the straight edge and fork clearly evident, set a caliper to the fork-column diameter
column indicates that the fork has been bent back from and slide the caliper up or down the column. If it hangs
frontal impact. up where the bottom of the stem was inserted into the
The mere fact that the fork column is bent is cause fork column, then the column is damaged and the fork
for replacement of the fork. In many cases the situation should be replaced.
is critical. When a fork column bends it often ends up
rubbing against the top edge of the lower headset cup.
This creates a groove in the fork column which becomes
DAMAGED FORK BLADES
Fork blades should be considered damaged any time
a dangerous stress riser.
there is a wrinkle, dimple, or bulge in the tubing. These
deformities create stress risers in a most critical area. If
BENT, CRACKED, OR BROKEN unsure, attempt alignment of the fork blades and check
FORK-COLUMN THREADS closely for any type of deformity. If another mechanic is
unable to determine the fork has been bent, then assume
There are two reasons that a fork column will fail in
that there are no critical deformities.
the threaded area: either the stem was installed too high
or the fork column had too long a threaded area. In both
cases, the stem expander ended up inside the threaded
portion of the fork column. If the stem was too high,
8 – 16
9 – ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS
1
3 4 5
2
4 7
2
Bottom-bracket
shell
0

TERMINOLOGY 9–1
PREREQUISITES 9–1
INDICATIONS 9–2
TOOL CHOICES 9–2
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING 9–2
COMPLICATIONS 9–4
THREADS 9–5
OVERHAUL AND ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 9–6
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL 9–6
BOTTOM-BRACKET REMOVAL 9–6
CLEANING THE PARTS 9–7
PARTS INSPECTION 9–7
PARTS REPLACEMENT AND INSTALLATION OF NEW PARTS 9–8
ASSEMBLY 9–9
ADJUSTMENT 9 – 11
JIS SPINDLE INTERCHANGEABILITY 9 – 12
SHIMANO DURA-ACE AND XTR ADJUSTABLE BOTTOM BRACKETS 9 – 15
INDENTIFICATION 9 – 15
DISTINGUISHING FEATURES 9 – 16
SERVICE PROCEDURES 9 – 16
5-MM SPLINE BOTTOM-BRACKET INTERCHANGEABILITY 9 – 18
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TROUBLESHOOTING 9 – 20
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Retainer: A clip that holds a group of ball bearings
that go between a cup and a cone. A retainer is sometimes
This chapter is about adjustable-cup bottom brack-
mistakenly called a race.
ets. Adjustable-cup bottom brackets have a spindle, loose
Seal mechanism: A rubber insert that fills the gap
balls or balls in a retainer, and cups that thread into the
where the spindle goes through the holes in the adjustable
bottom-bracket shell. There are also sealed cartridge-
cup and fixed cup.
bearing bottom brackets, which may press into, or thread
Spindle: The axle that rotates inside the bottom-
into, the bottom-bracket shell. These are generally less
bracket shell. The word axle is sometimes used in the
serviceable and are covered in a chapter called CARTRIDGE-
vernacular in regards to the bottom-bracket spindle.
BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS (page 10-1).
1
3 4 5
2
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY 6
Adjustable cup: A bearing cup that threads into
the left side of the bottom-bracket shell, which is
positioned further in or out to loosen or tighten the
bearing adjustment.
Bottom bracket: The bearing assembly that allows 7
4 2
the crankset to rotate in the bottom-bracket shell.
Bottom-bracket shell: The 1.5" diameter, 3" long Bottom-bracket
horizontal frame tube at the bottom of the frame that shell
contains the bottom bracket.
Cone: A surface that bearings roll on that is posi-
tioned inside the circle of balls. Two cones are built into
the bottom-bracket spindle.
Cup: A surface that bearings roll on that is posi- 9.1 Parts of the bottom bracket: 1. Lockring, 2. Seal
mechanisms, 3. Adjustable cup (left side), 4. Ball bear-
tioned outside the circle of balls. The cups thread into ings, 5. Plastic sleeve protector, 6. Spindle, 7. Fixed cup
the bottom-bracket shell. (right side).
Fixed cup: A bearing cup that threads into the right
side of the bottom-bracket shell that is seated fully and
left in one fixed position. The fixed cup has a built-in PREREQUISITES
flange that stops against the right end of the bottom- Chainline error
bracket shell. Before removing crank arms the chainline should
Lockring: A ring with notches on its outer perimeter be checked. The reason for this is that one way to fix a
that threads onto the adjustable cup and against the left chainline error is to change the bottom-bracket spindle,
end of the bottom-bracket shell and fixes the position of something that may be done when overhauling the bottom
the adjustable cup relative to the bottom-bracket shell. bracket. See the CHAINLINE chapter (INDICATIONS, page
Lockrings are round and have notches that are engaged 27-2) before removing the crank arms.
by a special tool called a lockring spanner.
Race: The cone or cup surface on which a ball bearing Crank-arm removal
rolls. A misuse of this term is to use it to describe a set In order to overhaul the bottom bracket, it is nec-
of ball bearings held together in a holder, which is more essary to remove the crank arms. To just adjust the bottom
properly called a retainer. bracket, it is recommended, and often required, to remove
9–1
the crank arms. See the PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter So what symptom would indicate that the bottom
(page 20-5) before starting the bottom-bracket overhaul bracket should be overhauled? The only one is that when
or adjustment. performing an adjustment, the looseness (free play) in the
bearings cannot be eliminated without the bearing becom-
ing excessively tight (does not turn smoothly). The lack of
INDICATIONS smoothness could be caused by dry grease, contaminated
There are several reasons the bottom bracket may need grease, or worn parts.
an overhaul and several reasons it may need adjustment.
A bottom-bracket overhaul should be done as part of Symptoms indicating need
a regular maintenance cycle, the duration of which will of adjustment
change depending on the type of riding, the amount of The primary symptom that will be experienced indi-
riding, and the type of equipment. Adjustments should cating that the bottom bracket needs an adjustment is
be done on the basis of need. looseness in the bearings. This can be detected by grasping
the end of the crank arms and jerking them in and out
Maintenance cycles while feeling for a knocking sensation. Another possible
If you start out with a bottom bracket known to be
symptom indicating that the bottom bracket needs adjust-
in good condition with good quality grease, it should be
ment is a clicking sound that cannot be solved by tight-
able to be ridden thousands of miles without needing
ening the crank arms, chainrings, pedals, or pedal parts.
an overhaul. If the equipment sees little wet-weather
A loose fixed cup or loose lockring can be the source of
riding, then an appropriate maintenance cycle would be
this sound. Whenever the lockring or fixed cup is loose,
2,000–3,000 miles in most cases. If a lot of wet-condition
it is not adequate to simply secure the loose part, as the
riding is done, then the maintenance cycle might need to
bottom-bracket adjustment may have been lost while the
be as often as every 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether
part was loose.
being ridden or not, so another factor is how long the bike
One other case in which it is recommended to
may be sitting before it will be used again. For example, if
adjust the bottom bracket is on any new bike assembly.
ridden 200 miles in the rain in the fall, then the bike is put
Most bikes come in the box from the factory with an
away for four months for the winter, it would probably
installed bottom bracket. It is common that the factory
be a good idea to overhaul the bottom bracket before the
is not very reliable, and bottom brackets sometimes are
bike is put away for the winter.
completely worn out after as little as 1,000 miles of use
Some other factors affecting the maintenance cycle are
due to poor factory setup.
whether the bottom bracket is equipped for grease injec-
tion and whether the bottom bracket has seal mechanisms.
Grease-injection systems do not eliminate the need for overhauling. TOOL CHOICES
They only increase the acceptable time between overhauls; The design or brand of bottom bracket will determine
furthermore, grease- injection systems are only as good as the tools needed. The following list (table 9-1) covers tools
the customer is consistent and thorough about pumping for adjustable-cup bottom brackets only. This list covers
in new grease. Seal mechanisms (adjustable-cup bottom all the tools for the job. The preferred choices are in bold.
brackets with rubber seals between the spindle and cups) A tool is preferred because of a balance among ease of
are not effective water-tight seals. Their effectiveness varies use, quality, versatility, and economy. When more than one
with the brand and model. At best, they can lengthen the tool for one function is bold, it means that several tools
acceptable time between overhauls. are required for different configurations of parts.
Symptoms indicating need of overhaul
One of the most common symptoms that leads the
customer to believe that his or her bottom bracket needs
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
Overhauling the bottom bracket (including crank-
overhaul is noise coming from the general area of the arm removal and bottom-bracket adjustment) is a 30–40
bottom bracket. Most noises that seem to come from minute job of moderate difficulty. Adjusting the bottom
the bottom bracket are crankset and pedal noises. When bracket alone (including crank-arm removal) is a 10–15
bottom brackets do make noise, it is almost always from a minute job of moderate difficulty.
loose cup or lockring and can be fixed without an overhaul.
A bottom bracket with enough internal damage or wear
to make a noise that is audible while riding would be an
extremely damaged piece of equipment.
9–2
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS (table 9-1)

FIXED-CUP TIGHTENING (cup already installed)
Stein FCC2 Attaches to nut-type and bolt-type spindles to retain spanners to cup
Campagnolo 713 36mm fixed cup (also 15mm pedal flats)
Delta 7140 36 mm fixed cup
Park HCW-3 Slotted 36mm spanner fits with right crank still mounted, if inner ring does not
overlap fixed cup (also fits 25mm one-piece bottom-bracket cones and nuts)
Park HCW-4 36mm fixed cup (also fits pin-hole adjustable cups w/ 29mm dia. hole pattern)
Park HCW-11 16mm flats found on old English and some Taiwan fixed cups (also fits adjust-
able cups with slots or square holes)
Park HCW-13 36mm fixed cup (also has 3-hook lockring spanner for 3-notch lockrings)
Shimano TL-FC31 (set) Set includes 36mm fixed-cup wrench
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes 36mm fixed-cup wrench
Zogs FCW-1400 36 mm fixed cup
FIXED-CUP INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL
Campagnolo 793/A 36mm fixed cups
Hozan C358 35.7mm and 36mm
United Bicycle Tool Universal (works by friction, may slip on most difficult removals)
BBCR
Park BBT-8 Fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700) fixed cups
Park TWB-368 Crowfoot adapter that allows use of torque wrench with BBT-8
Shimano TL-UN96 Fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700) fixed cups
VAR 30 w/ 30/2 & 30/3 35mm, 35.4mm, 36mm, 36.7mm, 37.7mm and 38mm fixed cups
LOCKRING TOOLS (Single-hook design fits all lockrings, but is best used when pliers will not fit because
number of notches is odd. Pliers are superior grip, but don’t fit three-notch lockrings. Multiple-hook de-
sign tools fit specific brand of lockring only.)
Campagnolo 712 Multiple-hook design fits Campagnolo lockrings (also fits 32mm headset)
Eldi 2712 Single-hook hinged design (fits headset lockrings also)
Hozan C203 Pliers fit even-notched lockrings securely
Hozan C205 Single-hook design (other end fits headset lockrings)
Park BBT-7 Multiple-hook design fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700)
aluminum lockrings
Park HCW-5 Single hook design on one end fits all lockrings, multiple-hook design on other
end fits some 3- and 6-notch lockrings
Park HCW-12 Single-hook design (also fits 32mm headset races)
Park HCW-13 Three-hook design fits common three-notch lockrings (also fits 36mm fixed cups)
Shimano TL-FC30 (set) Set includes multiple-hook design, fits Shimano lockrings only
Stein LW Vise-grip pliers has secure grip for stuck lockrings w/ even number of notches
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes single-hook design lockring tool
X-Axis Lockring Tool Single-hook design
X-Axis XTR Lockring Multiple-hook design fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700)
Tool aluminum lockrings
VAR 16 Pliers fit even-notched lockrings securely
(continued)
9–3
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS ( table 9-1 cont.)

ADJUSTABLE-CUP PIN SPANNERS (Adjustable spanners can be adjusted to fit various cups. They may
be light-duty or heavy-duty. Fixed spanners fit certain cups only and are all heavy-duty.)
Park SPA-1 (green) Light-duty adjustable with 3.0mm pins
Park SPA-2 (red) Light-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
Park SPA-6 Heavy-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins (not as stout as VAR 13)
Park HCW-4 Fixed pin spanner (fits many, but not all, pin-hole cups)
Shimano TL-FC30 (set) Set includes fixed pin spanner that fits Shimano cups
Sugino 201 (set) Set includes fixed pin spanner that fits Sugino cups
VAR 13 Heavy-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
SLOTTED ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with square holes or slots in its face)
Park SPA-4 (yellow) Light-duty, limited fit
Park HCW-11 Heavy-duty (fits cups with 16mm flats also)
VAR 311 Heavy-duty, but awkward compared to Park HCW-11
16MM FLATS ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with 16mm wrench flats)
Park HCW-11 Good tool, only one made for the job (works on similar fixed cups also)
HEX-FACED ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with hex fittings on its face)
Park HCW-3 25mm (36mm fixed-cup spanner on other end)
VAR 19/1 22mm & 24mm
VAR 19/2 26mm & 28mm
VAR 19/3 22mm & 24.9mm
NOTCHED-FLANGE ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (XTR BB-M950 bottom bracket)
Park BBT-8 Both fit Shimano XTR (BB-M950) adjustable cups (see FIXED CUP INSTALLA-
Shimano TL-UN96 TION AND REMOVAL section on page 9-3 also)
SPLINED-FACE ADJUSTABLE CUP SPANNERS (Dura-Ace BB-7700 bottom bracket)
Park BBT-2 Accepts 3/8" driver (also fits Shimano and ISIS cartridge bottom brackets)
Lifu 11B0, 11B1, & Each requires use of 32mm headset wrench and/or 1/2" driver and also fits
11B3 Shimano and ISIS cartridge bottom brackets
Shimano TL-UN65 Requires use of 32mm headset wrench or 1/2" driver
Shimano TL-UN74-S Requires use of 32mm headset wrench
COMPLICATIONS Difficult adjustment

One other difficulty that might be experienced is that
Difficult cup removal it may not be possible to get a good adjustment even with
Difficulty may be experienced removing the adjustable good-quality new parts. If the symptom experienced is
cup or fixed cup. Using a self-retaining fixed-cup tool such as that the spindle feels smooth through part of its rotation,
the VAR 30 and a cheater bar will generally solve the prob- then gets difficult to turn, and finally easy again, then the
lem for the fixed cup. When the adjustable cup is difficult bottom-bracket shell may need facing. See the FACING THE
to turn, retain the adjustable-cup spanner with something BOTTOM BRACKET chapter (page 3-4).
like a Stein Fixed Cup Spanner Clamp (FCC-2).
Difficulty may be experienced threading the cups Limited parts availability
out even after they have broken loose, or difficulty This type of bottom bracket is rapidly declining in
may be experienced threading them in. In this case, use. Consequently, only a very limited number of parts
it is recommended to tap the bottom-bracket threads. are available. Sometimes the only solution is to replace
See the TAPPING THE BOTTOM-BRACKET SHELL chapter the whole bottom bracket with a comparable cartridge
(page 2-3). bottom bracket, but even this can be problematic. Euro-
pean versions of this type of bottom bracket often have
9–4
a spindle taper that is not compatible with any cartridge
bottom brackets. Additionally, at close to the same time
THREADS
Bottom brackets thread into the frame. There are
that cartridge bottom brackets began to replace this type
several different thread standards listed in the following
of bottom bracket, crank arms were changing in design in
table. It is necessary to identify what thread standard is
a way that did not require as long a spindle. Consequently,
used on a particular bike in order to determine which way
with bottom brackets of this type that have longer spin-
to turn the fixed cup or to determine compatible replace-
dles, there are no comparable cartridge bottom brackets.
ment parts. To identify the threads, a thread-pitch gauge
The lack of replacement parts and compatible cartridge
and a caliper are needed.
bottom brackets can result in the need for an entire new
See table 9-2 (following) for bottom-bracket-thread
crankset (including bottom bracket).
information.
BOTTOM-BRACKET THREADS (table 9-2)

ADJUSTABLE CUPS: Always found on the left side of the bike and always are right-hand thread.
FIXED CUPS: Always found on the right side of the bike, see Right-side thread direction row below for thread direction.
Thread type “BSC”1 “ISO”1 “Italian” “Swiss” “French” “Whitworth”
Typical All Asian and most American Most Italian, French bikes French bikes English inex-
occurrences bicycles, as well as many others. some Mexican from the late- from the mid- pensive three-
All unmarked Asian cups are BSC and American seventies to eighties or speed and
or ISO thread. bicycles mid-eighties earlier derailleur bikes
Pitch 24tpi 24tpi 1mm 1mm 26tpi
Cup O.D. 34.6–34.9mm 35.6–35.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 34.6–34.9mm
Right-side left-hand thread right-hand left-hand right-hand left-hand
thread direction thread thread thread thread
(fixed cup)
Left-side thread right-hand thread right-hand right-hand right-hand right-hand
direction (adjust- thread thread thread thread
able cup)
Nominal thread 1.370" × 24tpi1 1.375" × 24tpi1 36mm × 24tpi 35mm × 1mm 35mm × 1mm 1–3/8" × 26tpi
description2 (Shimano4) (left3) (right3)
Shell I.D. 33.6–33.9mm 34.6–34.9mm 33.6–33.9mm 33.6–33.9mm 33.6–33.9mm
1
BSC (British Standard Cycle) and ISO (International Standards Organization) sizes are fully interchangeable. The
.005" diameter difference shown in the Nominal thread description row is a difference on “paper” only.
2
Nominal thread description is the name of the thread type. The diameter value is not a measurement but a value that
has been rounded up from the actual measurement.
3
French and Swiss threads are identical except that the thread direction of the fixed cup (right side) is left-hand for the
Swiss and right-hand for the French. The notations (left) and (right) rarely show up in the nominal thread descriptions,
although sometimes the letter “G” (stands for left in French) might be part of the name (example: 35 × 1G) if it is a
Swiss thread.
4
Shimano marks BSC cups “BC 1.37 × 24.”
9–5
OVERHAUL AND 5. [ ] Measure adjustable-cup protrusion (or

recess) from lockring face:___________mm
ADJUSTMENT (write recess as a negative number).

Protrusion
PROCEDURE Recess
NOTE: If just adjusting bottom bracket and not
overhauling it, do step 3, turn lockring counter-
clockwise to loosen it, then skip to step 46.
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL Adjustable cup
1. [ ] Measure chainring-to-chainstay clearance Lockring

with stack of feeler gauges: _________mm
9.5 The adjustable cup should not recess into the
lockring at all, but may protrude up to 2mm.
6. [ ] Turn lockring counterclockwise with lockring

tool to remove it.
9.2 Check clearance here before removing crank arm.
2. [ ] Measure chainline error (see CHAINLINE chap-

ter, page 27-5). Chainrings are out or in
(circle one) __________mm.
9.6 Remove the lockring.
7. [ ] Turn adjustable cup counterclockwise with

adjustable-cup tool to remove it.
chainrings in by ±__mm
chainrings out by +__mm
9.3 Determine the chainline error. Write the mea-

surement as a negative number if the chainrings are in. 9.7 Remove the adjustable cup.
3. [ ] Remove crank arms. 8. [ ] Remove ball bearings from inside adjustable

cup or from left end of spindle.
9. [ ] If replacing bearings (strongly recom-
BOTTOM-BRACKET REMOVAL mended), pop one out of the retainer and
4. [ ] Measure bottom-bracket-axle right-side pro- measure it with the Park SBC-1 bearing
trusion from cup face: ___________mm ruler. Record ball bearing size here: ______
10. [ ] Remove spindle (keeping careful track of
which was right end and which was left end),
measure spindle ends, and note whether .9 0 .1
right long or left long or same (circle one).

.8 .2
.7 .3
.6 .4
.5 .5
.4 .6
.3 .7
.2 .8
.1 0 .9
Caliper
9.4 Measuring right-side axle protrusion.
9.8 Correct way to measure the spindle end.
9–6
If the spindle needs to be replaced because it is
worn out or a bad fit (due to poor chainline, poor
chainring clearance, or poor adjustable-cup position), a
suitable replacement needs to be found. Spindles have
code numbers on them that can be used to determine
the appropriate solution. There is a section later in this
chapter on spindle interchangeability.
11. [ ] Note spindle markings here: _______________ 9.11 Turn the fixed-cup tool in the correct direction as
____________________ noted previously in step #17.
12. [ ] Remove plastic sleeve if there is one.
13. [ ] Remove other set of bearings from right end Both cups have now been removed. Was either or both
of spindle or from inside fixed cup. difficult to thread out? If so, it would be a good idea to
14. [ ] Inspect cup faces for thread identification. tap the threads. It can make a big difference in whether
Record markings here: ___________________ the cups might cross-thread when re-installing them, and
it will also make adjustment easier. It could be that all the
x threads need is cleaning, so after cleaning them test-install
1.37 24
the cups to decide whether to tap the threads.
Many bottom-bracket cups have rubber seals in the hole
where the spindle goes through the cup. It is optional to
remove these seals, but it helps cleaning if done. The seals
are generally soft rubber and pull out easily with fingers.
The seals are often asymmetrical, with some sort of lip
9.9 Inspect cup and lockring face for thread identi- protruding from one face with no comparable lip on the
fication (1.37×24 in this case). other face. If put in backward the seals may not do their job
15. [ ] Only if adjustable-cup markings are inade- and may interfere with the rotation of the spindle.
quate, measure cup diameter and pitch and 19. [ ] Remove seals from cups (if any) and write
record here: ________________ down orientations here: __________________
16. [ ] Look thread type up in BOTTOM-BRACKET
THREADS (table 9-2) from cup marks or from
measurements that were taken. CLEANING THE PARTS
17. [ ] From table information, choose whether fixed 20. [ ] Clean spindle, inside cups, and inside cre-
cup is right- or left- (circle one) hand thread. vasses where any seals were mounted.
18. [ ] Remove fixed cup with fixed-cup tool (check 21. [ ] Clean inside of bottom-bracket shell.
thread direction noted in step 17). 22. [ ] Clean cup threads and shell threads with
toothbrush and solvent.
23. [ ] Clean ball bearings only if re-using them
(re-using bearings not recommended).
PARTS INSPECTION
When bearings wear out, the surfaces on which the
balls roll develop pits (rough craters in the metal); this
process is called galling. Once this occurs a proper adjust-
ment cannot be made, and the wear will continue at a high
rate. The design of the bottom bracket is such that the
spindle tends to wear out first, the fixed cup next, and
the adjustable cup last. This order is not cast in stone,
especially if all three parts have not been in service an
equal amount of time. Although it is sometimes possible
to get individual replacement parts, more often than not
only complete bottom brackets are available. In any case,
9.10 Assemble fixed-cup tool into bottom-bracket shell. if any parts are heavily worn, it is a good idea to replace
them all. The ultimate test to determine whether there are
pits is to trace the wear path the bearings have left on the
9–7
cup or the spindle with the tip of a ball point pen. If the When installing new parts with no original parts on
tip of the pen catches anywhere, you have found a pit. hand, measure pitch and inside diameter of the bottom-
bracket shell. See BOTTOM-BRACKET THREADS (table 9-2),
and use the Pitch row and the Shell I.D. row to determine
the thread type.
Spindle compatibility
Spindle interchangeability is a challenging problem.
First you must decide if you:
Want the new spindle to match as closely as pos-
sible in all respects.
9.12 Trace the ball path with a ball point pen to check Want the new spindle to move the adjustable cup
for pits in the cone race.
in or out by how many millimeters.
Want the new spindle to move the chainrings in or
out by how many millimeters.
For example, if the adjustable cup is recessed 1mm in the
Adjustable cup
face of the lockring with the original spindle, it would seem
(cut-away view) that you would want a spindle with 1mm additional width
between the cone races. What complicates matters is that
cone diameters on the spindle vary from brand to brand. A
replacement spindle might have the extra millimeter of width
between the cone races, but due to a smaller cone diameter
9.13 Check for galling (pits) on the ball path in the cup no effect will be seen on the adjustable-cup position at all.
by tracing the ball path with a ball point pen.
In regards to chainring position, it would seem that all that
Inspecting the ball bearings for wear is not recom- matters is the length of the spindle from the cone race to its
mended. Significant wear on bearings is not necessarily end. For example, if you want the chainrings to move in 2mm,
detectable with the naked eye or by feel. Always replace get a spindle with a right-end length that is 2mm shorter;
the bearings if going to the trouble to overhaul the unfortunately, the thickness of the taper that fits into the
bottom bracket. crank arm varies brand to brand. If the replacement spindle
24. [ ] Inspect cone race on spindle for pits. was 2mm shorter on the end, but the taper was thicker, then
25. [ ] Inspect inside cups for pits in ball wear line.
it could end up that the chainrings would not move in at all.
26. [ ] Inspect inside cups for cracks in vicinity of
ball wear line.
As long as the replacement spindle is a brand match, a simple
27. [ ] Inspect in fixed-cup threads for any cracks comparison of width between cone races and length from
between threads, particularly at end near cone race to end of spindle should be sufficient.
cup flange. Fortunately most bikes with adjustable-cup bottom
brackets use Asian parts, which all adhere to the JIS
standard. There is a section later in this chapter about
spindle interchangeability in regard to these JIS spindles,
Cracks
with a table of dimensions for determining appropriate
replacement spindles.
9.14 Cracks can be seen at the points indicated by
arrows. 28. [ ] If original spindle caused problems with
chainline, chainring-to-frame clearance, or
adjustable-cup protrusion from lockring,
PARTS REPLACEMENT AND determine appropriate replacement spindle.
29. [ ] Replace any worn out spindle or spindle that
INSTALLATION OF NEW PARTS is causing problems with chainring position
or adjustable-cup position.
Verification of thread compatibility
When replacing parts and old parts are at hand, Cup compatibility
measure cup-thread diameter and pitch. Observe fixed- Many cups, particularly Asian ones, are compatible
cup-thread direction. Verify that replacement parts match across brands. Use the following test to determine com-
in all respects. patibility between old and new parts.
9–8
Check the diameter of the hole in the cup. This will be the is 11. If the retainers include a size of ball bearing other than
minimum for any cup to be considered for replacement. 1/4" (usually 3/16" or occasionally 7/32"), the quantity of
With the spindle held vertically, place a ball retainer loose balls that will fit is less certain. Fill the cups with balls
and the worn cup on the top end of the spindle. If it is without forcing any in. Retainers can be put in backward,
an adjustable cup, measure the distance from the end of which can destroy the bottom bracket or drive you nuts
the spindle to the face of the cup. If it is a flanged fixed when you are trying to adjust the bottom bracket.
cup, measure the distance from the end of the spindle to
the inside face of the flange.
Important information
Install any candidate replacement cup on the spindle if installing ball retainers
in the same fashion, and take the same measurement. Forget any rules of thumb about which way ball retain-
If the difference is less than .5mm, the replacement is ers face in relation to the cups and spindle. There is only
acceptable. A cup with a difference greater than .5mm one way to get ball retainers in correctly and that is to test-
may work, but at this point test-assembly of the bottom mate them both ways to the spindle and both ways to the
bracket would be best. cup. In one of the four combinations, the clip that holds
the balls together will be obviously contacting the ball race
on the spindle or the cup instead of the balls themselves
contacting the race. Install the retainers opposite this. If
good measurements of the right-side spindle protrusion
were taken, the original retainers were in correctly, and the
original (or an identical) spindle has been put in, putting
a retainer in backward will reduce the spindle protrusion
by more than a millimeter. If good measurements of the
9.15 The fixed cup on the right has a lower stack adjustable-cup protrusion from the lockring face were taken,
height and would position the spindle further out from the original retainers were in correctly, and the original (or an
the end of the bottom-bracket shell. Measure from the
back side of the fixed-cup flange to the end of the spin- identical) spindle and adjustable cup has been put in, putting
dle (as shown) to compare fixed-cup stack height. a retainer in backward will increase the cup protrusion by
If test-assembling to determine replacement suit- more than a millimeter.
ability, the lockring must engage three full threads of the 31. [ ] Replace ball bearings.
adjustable cup, no more than two threads of the adjustable
cup should protrude past the face of the lockring, and the ASSEMBLY
chainwheels should clear the frame by at least 2mm. 32. [ ] Loctite fixed-cup threads (Loctite 242).
30. [ ] Replace any worn out or damaged cups. Cups are about to be threaded into the bottom-bracket
Replacing ball bearings shell. It is easy to cross-thread them, which can damage the
The original ball bearings are usually in a retainer shell and require thread tapping. If fingers are used to start
(a clip that holds the balls together in a set). There are the cups, and no tools are used until the cups have turned
no mechanical advantages to using retainers, but there in several full revolutions, there is no chance of damaging
can be several disadvantages. Installing loose balls is the shell. If the cups were easy to thread out they should
always recommended, but the following information is be easy to thread in. If they were hard to thread out, it
provided about retainers in case they come with a new is best if the shell threads have been chased. If not, be
bottom bracket you are installing. If installing loose balls, extremely careful to not cross-thread the cups. If there is
try to find the highest quality balls available. Good balls trouble getting the threads started, try rotating the cups
are described as grade 25. Decent ball bearings might be backward just until a little “pop” is felt, then turn the cor-
described in the range of grade 100 to grade 200. Any higher rect direction. Remember, if the fixed cup was a left-hand
number than these is a mediocre bearing. thread it turns counterclockwise to install. To avoid the
Balls in a retainer are more expensive to buy in a high potential for cross-threading, start by installing the fixed
grade, and grade information is rarely available for balls in cup on a piloted fixed-cup tool, such as the VAR 30.
a retainer. Retainers often have fewer than the maximum
number of balls that will fit, leading to an increased rate
of wear. Any retainer with 1/4" balls can be replaced by
11 loose 1/4" balls. Any time the original balls were 1/4"
(loose or retained), the correct quantity of loose balls to use
9–9
33. [ ] Put fixed cup on fixed-cup tool and assemble 41. [ ] Install right end of spindle into left side of
tool together inside bottom-bracket bottom-bracket shell.
shell with fixed cup. Secure to 25ft-lbs
(25lbs@6" on two levers simultaneously).
9.18 Use a finger to guide the right end of the spindle

through the fixed cup.
42. [ ] Install plastic sleeve protector (if any).
43. [ ] Thread in adjustable cup until it exerts light
pressure on spindle.
44. [ ] Verify that right-side spindle protrusion
matches pre-disassembly dimension (unless
spindle is changed or deliberately reversed to
improve chainline).
9.16 Setup for using the VAR 30 fixed-cup tool. With

the fixed cup already on the handle end of the tool,
assemble the tool inside the bottom-bracket shell.
34. [ ] Only if installing balls in a retainer, test-
mate retainers facing both possible ways
in cups and on spindle to determine cor-
Caliper
rect orientation.
35. [ ] Grease seals (if any), then install into cups.
36. [ ] Thoroughly grease adjustable-cup threads 9.19 Measure right-side axle protrusion.
on cup and inside left side of bottom- 45. [ ] Hand-thread on lockring and verify that
bracket shell. cup protrusion matches pre-disassembly
37. [ ] Put an ample quantity of grease in dimension (unless spindle was changed). If
adjustable cup. cup protrusion has increased and spindle is
38. [ ] Put bearings into adjustable cup and cover unchanged, disassemble bottom bracket and
bearings with grease. find if bearing retainer(s) are out of place or
39. [ ] Put an ample quantity of grease onto right if a loose ball is out of place.
end of spindle.
40. [ ] Put bearings into grease on spindle and
cover bearings with grease.
Caliper
9.20 Verify adjustable cup still protrudes the same dis-

tance from the lockring face.
9.17 Put an ample quantity of grease on the bearing

race on the right end of the spindle, then submerge the
balls in the grease.
9 – 10
ADJUSTMENT 53. [ ] Holding adjustable cup stationary with

adjustable-cup spanner, secure lockring
NOTE: If the bottom bracket was just installed skip
with lockring spanner to at least 300in-lbs
to step 48.
(38lbs@8").
46. [ ] Loosen lockring and loosen adjustable cup
one full turn. Hold stationary
47. [ ] Secure fixed cup to 360in-lbs (30lbs@12").
48. [ ] Loosen lockring one turn.
49. [ ] Thread in adjustable cup until it exerts light
pressure on spindle.
Upon registering this book with Barnett Bicycle Insti-
tute, you should have received some complimentary bearing
calibration stickers. The stickers are used in the accompa-
nying illustrations. If preferred, draw some pen lines onto
some 1/2" masking tape at 1/8" intervals to duplicate the
function of the sticker (see figure 9.21).
50. [ ] Clean adjustable-cup face with alcohol, then
put BBI Bottom Bracket Tape sticker on shell
so edge of tape with marks is against back
face of lockring.
9.23 Secure the lockring while holding the adjustable

0 cup absolutely stationary.
54. [ ] Check that mark on cup still lines up with
“0” mark. Reset if cup slipped.
55. [ ] Grasp both ends of spindle firmly and jerk vig-
orously to check for knocking sensation that
indicates adjustment is too loose. If no knock-
ing is felt, reset cup 1 mark looser (counter-
clockwise), secure lockring, and check again.
If necessary, continue until knock is felt.
9.24 Jerk spindle vigorously to check for knocking.

9.21 BBI Bottom Bracket Tape sticker in place.
56. [ ] When knock is evident, loosen lockring and
51. [ ] Fine tune adjustable cup position to find
turn adjustable-cup mark to next clockwise
point that it gently contacts ball bearings.
mark on sticker or on masking tape.
52. [ ] Use fine-tip permanent marker to put mark
on cup face to match “0” mark on sticker.
0
9.22 Put a mark on the cup face in line with the “0” 9.25 Move the cup clockwise to make the cup mark line
mark on sticker. up with the next sticker mark to eliminate the knocking.
9 – 11
57. [ ] Holding adjustable cup stationary, tighten
lockring to at least 300in-lbs (38lbs@8"). JIS SPINDLE
58. [ ] Check for knocking. When knocking is dif-
ficult to feel, rotate the spindle to various INTERCHANGEABILITY
positions and check further for knocking. Table 9-4 (page 9-14) is a list of bottom-bracket
Repeat adjustment (steps 56–58) one mark spindles that are manufactured to JIS specifications.
clockwise at a time as necessary until play They can, in most cases, be manufactured by any number
is eliminated. of companies but be consistent enough in design to be
When rotating the spindle at the point the knocking interchangeable despite brand differences. The numbers
seems to be eliminated, it is possible that it might feel provided are direct from the manufacturer, not measured
sluggish, tight, rough, or tight and smooth simultaneously by Barnett Bicycle Institute. It is our experience that man-
at this point. How good it feels is largely a function of ufacturers sometimes do not hold very tight tolerances, so
the quality and condition of the parts and whether there do not be surprised if a spindle does not exactly match
are rubber seal mechanisms. If the parts were high qual- the given numbers. Even when the JIS standardizes some-
ity and in great condition, it is likely they will feel great thing, such as that a 3S spindle should measure 37.5mm
at this point. If there are any seal mechanisms, they on the long end, 52mm in the center, and 32mm on the
will make the spindle feel sluggish when rotated. If a short end, manufacturers may deviate dramatically; for
non-overhauled bottom bracket feels sluggish or tight, example, a Sugino brand 3S spindle is 35mm on the short
the grease may be dried out. If the bottom bracket feels end instead of the usual 32mm.
rough and has not just been overhauled, the parts are Even when a spindle measures exactly as it is supposed
worn out. If the spindle feels tight through a portion to, it does not mean that it will fit exactly like it is supposed
of its rotation and loose through another portion, it to. Two spindles from two companies, or even from two
indicates inexpensive new parts that need break-in or, if batches by the same company, may both have the same
using broken-in used parts (or high-quality new parts), long-end length, but the chainrings may end up several
that the bottom-bracket shell needs facing. millimeters closer to the frame with one spindle than the
59. [ ] Rotate spindle and decide whether it feels OK. other. This could be caused by variations in taper thickness.
60. [ ] Install right crank arm (see PRESS-FIT CRANK A fatter spindle will not insert as far into a crank arm as a
ARMS chapter on page 20-10 for correct
thinner spindle. It could also be caused by differences in
technique). If changing spindle, be sure to
check chainring clearance, chainline, and surface texture on the spindle flats. A smoother spindle will
front derailleur adjustment. insert further into a crank arm than a coarser one when the
61. [ ] Rotating crank arm to various positions, jerk crank arm is secured to both with the same torque.
vigorously in and out on end of crank arm This dimension table is useful only for common Asian
to see if any knocking remains. If additional spindles. Certain spindles, such as Shimano Dura-Ace,
knocking is felt, repeat adjustment. all Campagnolo, all other European brands, Specialized,
Decide next whether to make a break-in adjustment. and SunTour are so different in design that comparing
A break-in adjustment is one that is left one increment measurements on one brand to measurements on another
tighter than necessary to eliminate play. The purpose of brand is meaningless. For example, a Specialized spindle
a break-in adjustment is to compensate for the initial high marked 114-68 has a center width of 49mm. All of the
rate of wear that occurs with new and inexpensive cups spindles in the following table with a “3” in the code have
and spindles. As an alternative to a break-in adjustment, a center width of 52mm. It is logical to assume that if
anticipate needing to re-adjust the bottom bracket within removing the Specialized spindle and installing one of
the first couple hundred miles. If new parts appear espe- the “3” coded spindles in its place that the adjustable cup
cially polished where the balls roll on the spindle or cup, a would stick out 3mm more. In fact, due to the smaller
break-in adjustment would be a mistake. If not sure, then cone diameter on the “3” coded spindles, the adjustable-
skip making a break-in adjustment. cup position remains virtually the same.
62. [ ] If desired, reset cup to next clockwise mark When interchanging spindles that are not on this
for break-in adjustment. list, stick with trial and error or with spindle tables in
63. [ ] Remove tape or sticker and clean off marks. Sutherland’s fourth and fifth editions. Sutherland’s has factored
64. [ ] Install left crank arm (see PRESS-FIT CRANK
variables such as variations in taper thickness to come up
ARMS chapter on page 20-11 for correct
technique). with “axle end factor” values that can be compared to
each other just like the long end and short end lengths.
Sutherland’s also has factored variables such as variations
9 – 12
in cone diameter to come up with “center width factor” The letter portions of the JIS codes can mean one
values, which can be compared to each other just like the of two things. Consider these three JIS codes: 3H-B, D-
center widths can be compared. Do not mix these “fac- 3H, and 3H. If “-B” or “D-” is in the code, it indicates
tors” with actual spindle dimensions. that the spindle is designed for use with bolts to secure
It is generally accepted that the long end is the right side the crank arms. The absence of either of these codes
and the short end is the left, but there is no reason that these (D- or -B) in the one simply marked “3H” indicates the
cannot be reversed if it improves the chainring position. spindle is designed for use with nuts to secure the crank
arms. Letters in the JIS spindle code other than “D-” and
Using Table 9-4 “-B” primarily indicate the relative lengths of the spindle
Table 9-4 can be used to find a comparable spindle
ends, which is relevant to the chainring position. These
when an exact match is not available, or it can be used to
are referred to as “spindle-end codes.” Table 9-3 shows
find a spindle that improves the chainring position.
the approximate correspondence between JIS spindle-end
Table 9-4 is divided into three sections, for 68mm,
codes and Shimano cartridge-spindle codes.
70mm, and 73mm bottom-bracket-shell widths. Unless
Shimano cartridge spindles are marked with letter
there was an inappropriate spindle for the shell width
codes that correspond to different length spindles. These
in the first place, then always use the table section that
codes and the corresponding spindle lengths are:
corresponds to the actual width of the bottom-bracket
MM 107mm and 110.5mm
shell. If the original spindle was not appropriate, it would
LL 113mm
show up in one of two ways. First, a spindle that is for
D-H 115mm
a wider bottom-bracket shell than the one it is currently
XL 118mm
in will cause the adjustable-cup face to protrude several
NL 122.5mm
millimeters beyond the lockring face. Alternately, a spindle
EL 127.5mm
that is for a narrower bottom-bracket shell than the one
Most Shimano cartridges install from the right side of
it is currently in will cause the adjustable-cup face to be
the bottom-bracket shell. This includes all the UN and TY
recessed several millimeters into the lockring face.
models, plus the CT91, CT92, CS15, and LP28 models.
If the existing spindle puts the chainrings in a position
The remaining LP, CS, and CT cartridges install from the
that is too far out or in relative to the rear gears (chainline
left side of the bottom-bracket shell. By adding spacers
error), then use a spindle that has an end length that is
between the cartridge flange and the shell, these cartridges
different by the amount of the chainline error. For a bet-
can be made to simulate JIS spindles of different lengths.
ter understanding of chainline error, refer to chapter 27.
In table 9-3, if spacers are needed to make the cartridge a
Generally, the long end of a spindle goes on the drive
reasonably good match, the spacer thickness is indicated
side, but if the best way to correct the chainline error
by a number (+1 or +2) following the Shimano letter
is by installing a spindle with the short end on the drive
code. Adding 2mm of spacers is not an option if doing
side, it can be done. Note: If installing a spindle that has a
so interferes with the full installation of the mounting ring
shorter drive-side length than the original spindle, make sure that a
on the opposite side of the shell. Older metal mounting
minimum clearance of 2mm is maintained between the frame and
rings do not have this problem, but plastic ones do.
the crank arm or chainrings (whichever comes closest)!
SPINDLE/CARTRIDGE SWAPPING (table 9-3)
Replacement of JIS bottom bracket with JIS spindle- Right-installing Left-installing
Shimano cartridge-bearing bottom bracket end code cartridge cartridge
When a suitable replacement JIS spindle is not avail- I MM MM
able, it is possible that a Shimano cartridge-bearing bottom H MM +1mm spacer LL +1mm spacer
bracket can be found that will fit the frame and position D-H +1mm spacer
the crankset correctly. JIS spindles have codes consisting J&L LL or D-H XL +1mm spacer
of numbers and letters. A&K XL XL
The number portion of the JIS code is always a 3, 5, or P XL +1mm spacer NL +2mm spacer
7. For example, JIS spindles marked 3H and 5H differ only N XL +2mm spacer NL +1mm spacer
in which shell width each fits. The shell-width codes are “3”
S NL NL
for 68mm shell, “5” for 70mm shell, and “7” for 73mm shell.
T NL +2mm spacer EL +2mm spacer
Shimano cartridge bottom brackets are made specifically for
U&X EL EL
each bottom-bracket-shell width and are marked with 68, 70,
R, TR, & RR EL +1mm spacer none compatible
or 73 to indicate the appropriate shell width.
M EL +2mm spacer none compatible
9 – 13
Short end Center width Long end
9.26 Bottom-bracket spindle dimensions.
JIS SPINDLE DIMENSIONS (table 9-4)

SPINDLES FOR 68mm SHELL WIDTH SPINDLES FOR 70mm SHELL WIDTH
Codes Long end Short end Center width Codes Long end Short end Center width
(mm) (mm) (mm) (mm) (mm) (mm)
Sugino MS-68, 28.0–28.5 28.0–28.5 52 Sugino MS-70 28.5 27.5 53.5
Shimano D-3K Sugino MW-70 32.5 29 53.5
3I-B 30 29 52 Sugino MT-70 37 29.5 53.5
3H, D-3H, 3H-B 30.5–31.0 30.5–31.0 52 5H, D-5H 31 31 55
3J, 3J-B, 3L, 32 32 52 5J-B 32 32 55
D-3L, 3L-B 5L, D-5L 32 32 55
Sugino MW-68 33.5 30.5 52 5LL 32 32 55
3A, D-3A, 3A-B, 33.5 32 52 D-5A 32.5 31 55
3K, 3K-B 5P, D-5P 33.5–34.0 31 55
3P, D-3P, 3P-B 35 32 52 5N, 5N-B 35 32 55
3N, 3N-B 36 32 52 D-5NL 35 33.5 55
3NL, D-3NL 36 34.5 52 D-5SP, 5SP-B 37.5 30.5 55
3NN, 3NN-B 36 36 52 5SS, 5-SSB 37.5 32 55
Sugino MT-68 37.5 29.5 52 5S (Sakae 37 32 55
3SS, D-3SS, 37.0–37.5 32 52 Royal, SR)
3SS-B Sugino 5S-B 37.5 32 55
3S, D-3S, 3S-B 37.5 32 52 5S 37.5 35 55
Sugino & Tange 37.5 35 52 5T, D-5T 39 35 55
3S Sugino 5U, 5U-B 40.5 32 55
3T, D-3T, 3T-B 38.5–39.0 32 52 5U, D-5U, 5U-B 40.5 35 55
Sugino & Tange 38.5–39.0 35 52 5R 42 35 55
3T, 3T-B
3TM-B, 3TS, 39 37.5 52 SPINDLES FOR 73mm SHELL WIDTH
D-3TS Codes Long end Short end Center width
Sugino 3U-B 40.5 32 52 (mm) (mm) (mm)
3U, D-3U 40.0–40.5 35 52 7H, D-7H 30.5 30.5 57
Tange 3U 40 39 52 7L 32 30.5 57
D-3XA 40.5 39 52 7P-B 33.5 30.5 57
3X 40.5 40.5 52 7NL, D-7NL, 33.5 32 57
Sugino 3R, 3R-B 42 32 52 7NL-B
3R, D-3R, 3R-B 42 35 52 7EL, D-7EL, 36.0–36.5 35.0–35.5 57
Sugino 3RR-B 42 35 52 7EL-B
3TR-B 42 39 52 D-7S 37.5 35 57
3RR-B 42 42 52 7T-B, D-7TL 39 35 57
3M 43.5 35 52 7R-B 42 35 57
9 – 14
SHIMANO DURA-ACE be simple cartridge-bearing bottom brackets. When the

bottom bracket is in the package it comes in, the parts
AND XTR ADJUSTABLE are securely fit together in a way that makes it appear as
though it is a cartridge-bearing bottom bracket. In fact,
BOTTOM BRACKETS this bottom bracket consists of a spindle with two cone
races, two threaded cups with cup races, and a lockring,
just like an adjustable-cup bottom bracket.
IDENTIFICATION There are two versions of this design, designated
Shimano makes bottom brackets that have eight Type 1 and Type 2 by Shimano, and these designations
splines instead of four flats for the engagement to the only appear in Shimano’s parts catalog. The XTR model
crank arm. Of the eight-spline variety, there are types BB-M950 exists in both types, but the Dura-Ace model
with splines that are 4mm long, and there are types with BB-7700 is the Type 1 configuration only. To distinguish
splines that are 8mm long. There are cartridge-bearing Type 1 from Type 2 when the bottom bracket is already
bottom brackets with 4mm splines, and there are adjust- installed, remove the right-side crank arm, then look inside
able-cup bottom brackets with 4mm splines. This section the notched ring on the right-side “cup.” If there is a
covers the 5mm-spline, adjustable-cup Dura-Ace model black plastic cap, the bottom bracket is Type 1. If there
BB-7700 and the XTR model BB-M950. Other than the is a silver metal plate, then the bottom bracket is Type
model numbers, the distinguishing visual characteristic 2. To distinguish the type when removing it from the
of these varieties is the fact that the right-side threaded packaging, the same observation could be made, or you
cylinder has a notched flange that resembles a conventional could inspect the plastic sleeve between the two “cups.”
lockring for the left side of an adjustable-cup bottom If the sleeve is obviously dumbell-shaped, with a center
bracket, and that there is a notched lockring on the left diameter approximately 5mm less than the cup diameters,
side, as well. At first glance, these models may appear to then the bottom bracket is Type 1. If the sleeve is a uni-
Lockring Cone Spindle
Plastic seal cap Needle-bearing retainer Internal snap-ring Fixed cup*
Adjustable cup Ball-bearing retainer Plastic sleeve Plastic seal cap
*Includes snap-ring, ball-bearing retainer, and needle-bearing retainer

Type 1 XTR BB-M950
Lockring Cone Spindle

Plastic seal cap Needle-bearing retainer Short plastic sleeve Fixed cup*
Adjustable cup Ball-bearing retainer Long plastic sleeve Metal seal cap
*Includes cone, ball-bearing retainer, and needle-bearing retainer

Type 2 XTR BB-M950
9.27 Type 1 and type 2 XTR bottom brackets (both are models BB-M950
9 – 15
form diameter and just slightly smaller in diameter than
the cups, then the bottom bracket is Type 2.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
Type 1 disassembly
1. [ ] Remove both crank arms.
DISTINGUISHING FEATURES 2. [ ] Look for black plastic cap on right end of
Regardless of the type, this bottom bracket style spindle to confirm unit is Type 1. If silver
(Dura-Ace BB-7700 or XTR BB-M950) is fundamentally metal cap is found, use Type 2 directions.
the same as a conventional adjustable-cup bottom bracket, 3. [ ] Loosen lockring by using lockring spanner
but there are some differences. These differences include: to turn it fully counterclockwise (lockring
what tools fit, the nature of the seals, the removable nature is larger notched ring on left side of bot-
of the spindle cones, and the presence of an additional set tom bracket).
4. [ ] Turn adjustable cup (smaller notched ring)
of bearings (needle type) in addition to the cup-and-cone
counterclockwise to remove it.
ball bearing set. 5. [ ] Pull plastic seal cap out of outer face of cup.
The tools needed are listed in table 9-1 (page 9-3). 6. [ ] Pull spindle out left side of bottom-bracket
The seals in this bottom bracket are different because shell.
they are a multi-part design. Each cup has a soft rubber seal 7. Measure thread diameter of left-side cup to
fixed to the inner perimeter of the hole where the spindle determine if bottom bracket is English/BSC
goes through. The fit between the rubber seals and the or Italian thread:
spindle is somewhat loose. The second part of each seal [ ] Approximate 35mm O.D. is English/BSC
set is a plastic cap (metal on the right side of the Type 2) [ ] Approximate 36mm O.D. is Italian
that is a very tight fit to the spindle. The rubber seal and the 8. [ ] Use TL-UN96 (or equivalent) to turn fixed cup
clockwise to remove (unless Italian thread).
cap engage each other in such a way as to create a labyrinth
9. [ ] Pull plastic seal cap out of outer face of cup.
seal, which is highly effective at keeping out grit. 10. [ ] Remove plastic seal cylinder from whichever
Both the Type 1 and Type 2 versions of these bot- cup to which it has remained attached.
tom brackets have bearing cones that are separate from 11. [ ] Use seal pick to carefully remove plastic
the spindle. They slip onto the spindle and seat against split ring from inside end of each cup. Be
flanges on the spindle that fix the position of the cone. prepared for many small bearings to fall out
On the Type 1 spindle, these cones are a mild press fit. once ring is removed!
On the Type 2 spindle, the cones are a loose fit. Because 12. [ ] Remove ball-bearing retainer from each cup.
of this difference, when disassembling the Type 1 bottom 13. [ ] Remove needle-bearing retainer from each
bracket, the cones tend to remain in place on the spindle cup.
14. [ ] Remove balls and needles from retainers.
during disassembly. By nature of the design of the Type 2
version, the cone stays with the left-side cup and bearing Type 2 disassembly
assembly when they are removed from the spindle. On 1. [ ] Remove both crank arms.
the right side of the Type 2 version, the cone may stay on 2. [ ] Look for silver metal cap on right end of
the spindle or may stay with the cup when separating the spindle to confirm unit is Type 2. If black
right-side cup and spindle. plastic cap is found, use Type 1 directions.
3. [ ] Loosen lockring by using lockring spanner
The final feature of these bottom brackets that sets
to turn it fully counterclockwise (lockring is
them apart from conventional adjustable-cup bottom larger notched ring on left side of bottom
brackets is that there are two sets of needle bearings in bracket).
addition to the two sets of cup-and-cone ball bearings. 4. [ ] Turn adjustable cup (smaller notched ring)
The function of the needle bearings is to support most counterclockwise to remove it.
of the radial loads (which tend to be high). Since the ball 5. [ ] Pull plastic seal cap out of outer face of cup.
bearings are not supporting these high loads, they are much 6. [ ] Use plastic mallet to tap on right end of
smaller than normal bottom-bracket ball bearings (1/8" spindle to remove it from bottom bracket.
instead of 1/4"). With the needle bearings supporting the Watch for metal seal cap that will fall off
primary radial loads, the only function of the ball bearings right end of spindle as spindle is removed.
Observe whether cone remained on spindle.
is to enable adjustment of play so that the spindle does
7. Measure thread diameter of left-side cup to
not move laterally. determine if bottom bracket is English/BSC
or Italian thread:
[ ] Approximate 35mm O.D. is English/BSC
[ ] Approximate 36mm O.D. is Italian
9 – 16
8. [ ] Use TL-UN96 (or equivalent) to turn fixed cup bottom bracket is only available as part of a spindle and
clockwise to remove (unless Italian thread). right-side cup assembly.
9. [ ] To remove short plastic sleeve cylinder
from adjustable cup, carefully pry under Type 1 assembly
inner perimeter with seal pick. Be prepared 24. [ ] Insert roller-bearing retainers into each cup.
for numerous loose parts held in place only 25. [ ] Insert ball-bearing retainers into each cup
by this plastic sleeve, including a cone, a with smaller-diameter end going in first.
ball-bearing retainer, and a needle-bearing 26. [ ] Install plastic split ring into each cup until
retainer to fall out! securely engaged in groove.
10. [ ] To remove long plastic sleeve cylinder from 27. [ ] Press cones onto spindle until they are
fixed cup, just pull pieces apart with your seated against flanges.
fingers. Be prepared for loose parts held in 28. [ ] Press either end of plastic seal cylinder
place only by this plastic sleeve, including a firmly into end of fixed cup.
cone, a ball-bearing retainer, and a needle- 29. [ ] Insert spindle into fixed cup, then press plas-
bearing retainer to fall out! tic seal cap over right end of spindle until it
11. [ ] Remove cones from each cup assembly bottoms against seal and cup.
(unless right-side cone remained on spindle).
12. [ ] Remove ball-bearing retainer from each cup.
Type 2 assembly
24. [ ] Insert roller-bearing retainers into each cup.
13. [ ] Remove needle-bearing retainer from each 25. [ ] Insert ball-bearing retainers into each cup
cup. with smaller-diameter end going in first.
14. [ ] Remove balls and needles from retainers. 26. [ ] Install cone into left-side cup.
Cleaning and parts replacement 27. [ ] Snap short plastic cylinder into left-side
15. [ ] Clean all parts with solvent and dry com- cup, and snap long plastic cylinder into
pletely. right-side cup.
16. [ ] Inspect cones for pitting and replace if nec- 28. [ ] Press remaining cone onto right end of spin-
essary. dle until it seats against flange.
In the previous step, the cones were inspected. If 29. [ ] Insert spindle into fixed cup, then press
metal seal cap over right end of spindle until
they need replacing, the XTR Type 1 and 2 cones are
it bottoms against seal and cup.
interchangeable with each other, but the Dura-Ace
cones are unique. Types 1 & 2 installation and adjustment
17. [ ] Inspect cup races for pitting. 30. [ ] If installing new unit, separate left-side cup
18. [ ] Inspect needle races inside cups for pitting. assembly from clear plastic seal cylinder and
In the previous steps, the cups and needle races were remove black plastic seal cap from outer
inspected. Type 1 cups (XTR or Dura-Ace) are available face of left-side adjustable cup.
separately. The Type 2 XTR left-side cup is available sepa- 31. [ ] Thread adjustable-cup lockring inward, coat
rately, but the right-side cup is sold only as part of a cup threads that were covered by lockring with
anti-seize, then thread lockring back out to
and spindle assembly. Cups are sold complete with new
end of cup.
ball and needle bearings. 32. [ ] Coat all exposed threads on both cups with
19. [ ] Inspect needle races on spindle for pitting. anti-seize.
In the previous step, the needle races on the spindle The bottom bracket comes with several spacer
were inspected. Type 1 spindles (XTR or Dura-Ace) are washers, which change location depending on the con-
available separately. The Type 2 XTR spindle is only avail- figuration. The variables are the shell width (68mm or
able as part of a spindle and right-side cup assembly. 73mm), the spindle length (112.5mm or 116mm), and
20. [ ] Pack all four retainers with grease suitable
whether the front derailleur being used is an E-type
for high-quality bearings.
21. [ ] Put 18 new 1/8" ball bearings into each ball- (mounts by means of bracket secured behind the fixed-
bearing retainer (insert from outside). cup flange). Use table 9-5 (page 9-19) to determine the
22. [ ] Put 18 roller bearings into each roller-bearing appropriate spacer dimensions for each side.
retainer (insert from outside). 33. [ ] Install correct spacer or bracket on each
23. [ ] Inspect seals and seal caps for damage and cup.
replace as necessary. 34. [ ] Carefully thread right-side cup and spindle
The rubber seals are available only as part of the cup assembly into right side of bottom-bracket
assembly. The plastic seal caps are available separately, shell (counterclockwise for English/BSC,
clockwise for Italian).
but the metal seal cap on the right side of the Type 2
9 – 17
35. [ ] Using Park BBT-8 and TWB-368, secure ous shell widths, and for with and without the use of an
fixed cup to 435in-lbs. E-type derailleur. E-type derailleurs have a 2.5mm-thick
36. [ ] Double-check that lockring is threaded all plate that mounts between the right end of the bottom-
the way out on adjustable cup, then thread bracket shell and the bottom-bracket flange.
adjustable cup in until it gently contacts
Due to some common misconceptions about the rela-
bearings.
tionship between overall spindle length and the lengths
37. [ ] Place BBI bottom bracket tape on shell so
that “0” mark lines up with one edge of a of both spindle ends, certain numbers in this table may
notch in the adjustable-cup flange (not a appear suspect. For example, Shimano makes XTR bottom
notch in the lockring). brackets with both 112.5mm and 116mm spindle lengths.
In the next step, you simultaneously stabilize the There are two false assumptions frequently made about the
adjustable cup and secure the lockring. The adjustable cup 3.5mm difference in length. One false assumption is that
can be fit by the TL-UN96 or equivalent, but this type of the extra length is all added to the right end of the spindle,
tool requires a second tool for leverage, such as a headset which would result in the 116mm length positioning the
spanner. Since you also have to use another lockring span- chainrings 3.5mm further out than when the same crank is
ner on the lockring, you would end up with three tools, installed on the 112.5mm spindle. The other false assump-
none of which securely attach to each other or the part tion is that the extra 3.5mm is divided equally between
they engage. Consequently, the best technique is to use both sides, which would result in the 116mm spindle posi-
two lockring spanners and no TL-UN96 or equivalent. tioning the chainrings 1.75mm further out than when the
This technique is much less awkward. same crank is installed on the 112.5mm spindle. In fact,
38. [ ] Use one lockring spanner to stabilize the difference in the chainring positions resulting from
adjustable cup and another to secure these two spindle lengths is negligible (about .5mm), and
lockring. almost all the extra length of the 116mm spindle is on
39. [ ] Jerk vigorously on end of right crank arm at the left end. Regardless of what the reason for this may
a variety of positions to check for knock. be, avoid assuming any direct relationships between overall spindle
40. [ ] Tighten adjustment (clockwise) by one
length and chainring position!
mark to eliminate knock or loosen (counter-
clockwise) to create knock. Final adjustment Understanding table 9-5
is first setting clockwise of adjustment with Table 9-5 lists all Shimano 5mm-spline bottom brackets,
knock that eliminates knock. cartridge-bearing or adjustable-cup type, with every possible
41. [ ] Press black plastic seal cap onto left end
of spindle until it is fully seated against
combination of spacers. This includes XTR, Dura-Ace,
seal and cup. Ultegra, and 105 models, all of which have the same spline
pattern. Since using any model with the same spindle length
results in the same chainring position, bottom brackets are
5MM-SPLINE BOTTOM-BRACKET listed by spindle length instead of model.
INTERCHANGEABILITY The lengths are listed in whole millimeters, because
The Shimano XTR BB-M950 and Dura-Ace BB- sources may be inconsistent in using precise dimensions and
7700 splined bottom brackets covered in this section can sometimes simply truncate any “.5” from the length. For
be interchanged with the XTR BB-M952 and Dura-Ace example, if one source lists a 112.5mm XTR BB-M950 and
BB-7701 and BB-7703 cartridge-bearing bottom brackets. another lists a 112mm XTR BB-M950, they are the same.
The Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket (models BB-6500 The 112 and 116 lengths in table 9-5 are all XTR mod-
and BB-6503) and Shimano 105 bottom bracket (models els and are designed to be used with spacers to adjust the
BB-5501 and BB-5503) are also compatible, but are not of chainring position. The 109 and 118 lengths are Dura-Ace,
comparable quality and performance. Each of these mod- Ultegra, and 105 models designed to be used without any
els comes in a variety of spindle lengths. The XTR models spacers. The chainline column labeled “MTB” applies to all
come with spacers that are used to accommodate different XTR triple cranks. The chainline column labeled “Road dbl”
shell widths and the use of an E-type front derailleur or applies of all Shimano Dura-Ace, Ultegra, and 105 double
not, and which also may be used to alter the chainline. The cranks, and “Road tpl” applies to these same models equipped
stock spacers are provided in thicknesses of 1mm, 2.5mm, with three chainrings.
and 3.5mm. There are aftermarket spacers available with The chainline values in the table 9-5 in bold type are
thicknesses of 1mm, 1.5mm, and 2.0mm. The following Shimano’s standard chainline recommendations, which are
table (table 9-5 on page 9-19) assumes availability of all not necessarily “perfect” chainline values. For example,
these spacers. The table is divided into sections for vari- a 135mm hub (MTB) with a nine-speed cassette has a
9 – 18
45mm chainline (assuming perfect frame alignment), but SHIMANO 5mm-SPLINE BOTTOM BRACKETS
the Shimano-recommended MTB bottom-bracket setup
(table 9-5)
creates a 47.5mm chainline. The following list shows the
rear chainlines for a variety of typical hub-width/cassette Length Left Right MTB Road dbl. Road tpl.
(mm) spacer spacer chainline chainline chainline
combinations, and the corresponding front chainline
68mm shell & standard derailleur
(crankset) that Shimano recommends.
1121 4.0mm 1.0mm 46.0mm 42.0mm N/A
Hub Cassette Rear chainline Front chainline
116 2
4.0mm 1.0mm 46.5mm 42.5mm N/A
135mm 9-speed 45mm 47.5–50.0mm
135mm 8-speed 45.5mm 47.5–50.0mm 1121 3.5mm 1.5mm 46.5mm 42.5mm N/A
130mm 9-speed 42.5mm 43.5mm (dbl) 116 2
3.5mm 1.5mm 47.0mm 43.0mm N/A
130mm 8-speed 43.0mm 43.5mm (dbl) 1121 3.0mm 2.0mm 47.0mm 43.0mm N/A
130mm 9-speed 42.5mm 45.0mm (tpl) 116 2
3.0mm 2.0mm 47.5mm 43.5mm N/A
130mm 8-speed 43.0mm 45.0mm (tpl) 1121 2.5mm 2.5mm 47.5mm 43.5mm N/A
As is usually the case, perfect chainline may not be 109 3
none none 47.5mm 43.5mm N/A
necessary or achievable. Derailleur-travel limitations and 116 2
2.5mm 2.5mm 48.0mm 44.0mm N/A
unacceptable chainring-to-frame clearance (less than 2mm) 1121 2.0mm 3.0mm 48.0mm 44.0mm N/A
can both be reasons to deviate from perfect chainline. With 116 2
2.0mm 3.0mm 48.5mm 44.5mm N/A
triple cranksets in particular, if the chainrings are moved 1121 1.5mm 3.5mm 48.5mm 44.5mm N/A
closer in to achieve perfect chainline, the inward travel of
116 2
1.5mm 3.5mm 49.0mm 45.0mm N/A
the front derailleur might not be sufficient. When the seat
1121 1.0mm 4.0mm 49.0mm 45.0mm N/A
tube is larger than 28.6mm diameter, the possibility of this
116 2
1.0mm 4.0mm 49.5mm 45.5mm N/A
derailleur-travel complication increases.
1184 none none N/A 52.0mm 45.0mm
68mm shell & E-type derailleur (right-side spacers are
in addition to 2.5mm-thick derailleur bracket)
1121 2.5mm none 47.5mm N/A N/A
116 2
2.5mm none 48.0mm N/A N/A
1121 1.5mm 1mm 48.5mm N/A N/A
116 2
1.5mm 1mm 49.0mm N/A N/A
1121 1.0mm 1.5mm 49.0mm N/A N/A
116 2
1.0mm 1.5mm 49.5mm N/A N/A
73mm shell & standard derailleur
1121 none none 47.5mm 43.5mm N/A
112 1
none 1.0mm 48.5mm 44.5mm N/A
116 2
1121 none 1.5mm 49.0mm 45.0mm N/A
116 2
73mm shell & E-type derailleur (right-side spacers are
in addition to 2.5mm-thick derailleur bracket)
1121 none none 50.0mm N/A N/A
116 2
none none 50.5mm N/A N/A
70mm shell (Italian) & standard derailleur
1184 none none N/A 52.0mm 45.0mm
1
Either XTR BB-M950 or BB-M952 model
2
Either XTR BB-M950 or BB-M952 model
3
Either Dura-Ace, Ultegra, or 105 model
4
Either Dura-Ace, Ultegra, or 105 model
9 – 19
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET
TROUBLESHOOTING (table 9-6)
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The bearing adjusts with a tight/loose pattern, i.e., with the adjustment completed, the
spindle is tight through a portion of its rotation and looser in another portion.
Bearing cups seated against misaligned shell Face bottom-bracket shell.
faces.
Low-precision parts. Will go away with break-in if facing shell does not solve.
Bent spindle (detect by rolling on flat surface). Replace spindle.
Cup(s) cross-threaded. Tap shell with piloted taps.
SYMPTOM: The spindle feels “sluggish” to rotate after completing a precision adjustment.
Grease is dried out. Inspect, then overhaul.
Seal mechanism causes drag. Lubricate seal mechanism, problem may reduce with use.
Seal mechanism is installed wrong. Check that seal is properly mounted in groove; try
reversing orientation.
SYMPTOM: Bearings feel “rough” after completing a precision adjustment.
New, low-precision parts. Will improve with break-in.
Contamination in bearings. Overhaul.
SYMPTOM: Play cannot be eliminated without making the spindle very difficult to rotate.
Parts are worn out. Disassemble and inspect.
Too many ball bearings. Disassemble and inspect.
Bearing retainer reversed (evidence would be Disassemble and inspect.
that the adjustable cup would not be inserting
as far as it did originally).
Seal mechanism in wrong. Disassemble and inspect.
SYMPTOM: A gritty or rough feeling that is not constant in location.
Contamination in bearings. Overhaul.
SYMPTOM: Adjustable cup will not reinstall to original depth.
Retainer in backwards. Disassemble and inspect.
Balls out of position in cups. Disassemble and inspect; balls may be caught on upper lip
of race.
Too many balls. Check ball quantity and use fewer if balls are jumbled
in cup.
Cup is cross-threading. Remove cup and attempt to thread straight. Disassemble
and tap shell if necessary.
Ball bearings wrong size. 1/4" balls have been used where 7/32" or 3/16" are
required.
SYMPTOM: A clicking, knocking, popping sound or sensation is heard or felt from the bottom bracket
after eliminating loose cranks, loose pedal mounting, loose pedal parts or bearings, or loose chainwheel
bolts as possible causes.
Loose lockring. Tighten lockring.
Loose fixed cup. Tighten fixed cup.
Extremely worn parts. Disassemble and inspect.
Continued next page
9 – 20
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET
TROUBLESHOOTING (table 9-6 continued)
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Fixed cup is loose.
Not properly installed (common). Reinstall with correct Loctite and torque.
Threads have failed. Simple and inexpensive solution is to install a cup in good condition
with Loctite #RC680. This installation should be considered perma-
nent. A more difficult and expensive solution appropriate on expen-
sive bikes is to convert the threading to Italian if it is not already;
however, converting threads to Italian is time-consuming, dulls the
taps rapidly, and results in poor-quality threads.
SYMPTOM: Premature wear of components.
Improper original lubrication or Check all factory assemblies.
adjustment (common).
9 – 21
10 – CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS
L Bottom-bracket R
shell
Right installing
Left installing
L Bottom-bracket R
shell
GENERAL INFORMATION 10 – 2
TERMINOLOGY 10 – 2
PREREQUISITES 10 – 2
INDICATIONS 10 – 2
TOOL CHOICES 10 – 3
COMPLICATIONS 10 – 3
THREADS 10 – 4
THREAD-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS 10 – 4
INTEGRATED-SPINDLE TYPES 10 – 4
SEPARATE-SPINDLE TYPES 10 – 11
PRESS-IN BOTTOM BRACKETS 10 – 13
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER vary in design. Additionally, these press-in varieties

are becoming outdated, and there are limitations to
Cartridge-bearing bottom brackets differ from
parts and tool availability.
adjustable-cup bottom brackets in the design of the
Cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are available with
bearings. The adjustable-cup bottom bracket design has
a variety of spindle types. Some cartridge-bearing bottom
cones, ball bearings, and cups that can all be separated from
brackets have a classic square-taper spindle and can be used
each other, and may potentially be individually replaced. In
as a replacement for an adjustable-cup bottom bracket with
the case of cartridge bearings, there are ball bearings, but
the same spindle design. There are also cartridge-bearing
they are encased in a permanent assembly consisting of
bottom brackets that have cylindrical spindle ends with a
an inner and an outer bearing race. It is possible that this
splined engagement to the crank arms. These splined-spindle
cartridge-bearing assembly can be separated from the rest
bottom brackets are made in three common configurations
of the bottom bracket, or that the cartridge bearings are also
at the time of this writing, but there are also other spline
permanently integrated with the bottom-bracket spindle and
configurations that are less common.
a cylinder that encloses the entire structure.
A universal result of the cartridge-bearing design is that Sections
there is no adjustment of bearings. Additionally, the most After the GENERAL INFORMATION section, the sections
common designs do not permit any service of the bearings, in this chapter are organized by the method of attachment
including cleaning, greasing, or replacing the parts. There- of the bottom bracket to the bottom-bracket shell.
fore, when the bottom bracket develops symptoms of tight The second section in this chapter, THREAD-IN BOTTOM
or loose bearings, the only repair is to replace the complete BRACKETS, covers the cartridge-bearing bottom brackets
assembly. The cartridge-bearing bottom brackets that have that thread into the frame. This section is further divided
cartridge bearings that can be separated from the spindle can by the degree to which the bottom-bracket spindle is inte-
sometimes be cleaned and greased, or the cartridge-bearing grated into the assembly. The thread-in bottom brackets
assemblies can be individually replaced. that have a spindle that is integrated with any other part of
There are two ways that cartridge-bearing bottom the assembly are covered in one procedure (see figure 10.1),
brackets are installed into the bottom-bracket shell. and then the thread-in bottom brackets that have a separate
There are cartridge-bearing bottom brackets that thread spindle (can be completely separated from the bearing) are
into conventional threaded bottom-bracket shells, and covered in another procedure.
there are cartridge-bearing bottom brackets that must Within each group of thread-in cartridge bottom
be pressed into unique bottom-bracket shells that have brackets, variations in procedure for different brands and
no threads. The threaded type is most common, but models are noted by specific comments, rather than by
there are a variety of threaded styles that require dif- creating a unique procedure for each brand and model.
ferent service techniques and tools. The less-common The last section in this chapter, PRESS-IN BOTTOM
types that press into the bottom-bracket shell also BRACKETS, covers those cartridge-bearing bottom
Cup Main Assembly
Shimano
LL113
UN52
Integrated cup
10.1 A typical two-part cartridge-bearing bottom bracket, consisting of a cup and a main assembly. There is a
three-part variety which has a main assembly and two separate cups.
10 – 1
brackets that are pressed into unthreaded bottom-bracket
shells. These are all covered by one procedure that is pre-
PREREQUISITES
For all types of bottom brackets, the only prerequisite
dominantly generic in nature, but it has specific comments
is crank-arm removal and installation.
for some variations in design that may be encountered.
If changes in the effective spindle length create
changes in the chainring position, then front derailleur
adjustment would also be required.
GENERAL INFORMATION
INDICATIONS
TERMINOLOGY Symptoms indicating worn bearings
Bottom bracket: The bearing assembly that allows If a looseness (radial play or side play) develops
the crankset to rotate in the bottom-bracket shell. between the spindle and the bearings, the bearings may be
Bottom-bracket shell: The 1.5" diameter, 3" long worn out, or cups may be loose. If securing the cups does
horizontal frame tube at the bottom of the frame that not eliminate this symptom, the entire bottom bracket
contains the bottom bracket. must be replaced, unless it is a type that has cartridge bear-
Cartridge bearing: A self-contained bearing assem- ings that can be separated from the spindle and cups.
bly consisting of an outer race, bearings, and an inner race. If a spindle feels tight or difficult to rotate, particularly
Typically, the inner and outer races are metal cylinders, if there is a grinding sensation as it is rotated, then this can
and the bearings are concealed behind a rubber seal that also indicate the bearings are worn out. Some cartridge-
covers the gap between the inner and outer races. bearing systems can have their seals removed, in which case
Cup: A threaded cup or sleeve that threads into a the bearings can be cleaned and regreased. If this does not
bottom-bracket shell to retain a cartridge-bearing bottom- solve the tight feeling, then the entire bottom bracket must
bracket assembly. The cup can be a separate piece from the be replaced, unless it is a type that has cartridge bearings
main bottom-bracket assembly, or it may be integral to the that can be separated from the spindle and cups.
main bottom-bracket assembly. Depending on the variety
of bottom bracket, the cup might resemble the bearing
Symptoms indicating bad grease
Grease can dry out or be washed out of any bearing,
cup found in a conventional adjustable-cup bottom bracket
whether it is described as sealed or not. The symptom of
(without the cup race on the inside), or it may be a simple
a lack of grease is that the spindle feels tight when rotated.
cylinder with threads on the outside and an internal spline
This symptom can also be caused by worn or rusted bear-
configuration in one face.
ings. Some cartridge-bearing systems can have their seals
E-type front derailleur: There are two types of
removed, in which case the bearings can be cleaned and
front derailleurs. The traditional type mounts by means
regreased. If this does not solve the tight feeling, then the
of a clamp to the seat tube and has no effect on bottom-
entire bottom bracket must be replaced, unless it is a type
bracket selection and setup. An E-type front derailleur is
that has cartridge bearings that can be separated from the
attached to a bracket that mounts between a flange on the
spindle and cups.
bottom bracket and the right end of the bottom-bracket
shell. Certain cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are made Symptoms indicating loose parts
specifically for use with E-type front derailleurs. A creaking or clicking noise that occurs as the crank
Race: The circular track on which a ball bearing rolls. arms are rotated under load can indicate loose parts in
A misuse of this term is to use it to describe a set of ball the bottom bracket. The cups may be loose in the bot-
bearings held together in a holder, which is more properly tom-bracket shell, there may be a looseness between the
called a retainer. bearing assembly and the cups, or there may be a looseness
Seal: Usually a rubber disc, or rubber-coated metal between the cartridge bearings and the spindle. Removal
disc, that covers the bearings to reduce the introduc- and examination of the assembly can reveal the source of
tion of contaminants into a bearing assembly, such as the noise, but it may not be possible to detect the cause
a cartridge bearing. by visual inspection. Installing the assembly with proper
Spindle: The axle that rotates inside the bottom- torque and the application of Loctite between parts that
bracket shell. The word axle is sometimes used in the may be moving inappropriately may eliminate the symp-
vernacular in regards to the bottom-bracket spindle. tom, and only by doing so does it become certain that
loose parts were the source of the noise.
10 – 2
Symptoms indicating need of facing preferred because of a balance among ease of use, quality,
Most cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are designed versatility, and economy. When more than one tool for one
in such a way that performance is not compromised by function is bold, it means that several tools are required
poor facing of the shell. Some, however, may exhibit a for different configurations of parts.
symptom of the spindle rotating smoothly before the
cups are secured, but once the cups are fully secured, a
tightness or binding develops. If this occurs, facing the
COMPLICATIONS
bottom-bracket shell should solve the problem. Damaged splines in cups
Many of the cartridge-bearing bottom brackets that
thread into the bottom-bracket shell have an internal spline
TOOL CHOICES that is engaged by a splined tool, for the purpose of remov-
The design or brand of bottom bracket determines ing and installing the cups. Due to corrosion of the threads,
which tools are needed. The following list (table 10-1) or improper use of the splined tool, the splines in the cups
covers tools for thread-in cartridge bottom brackets only. may become stripped. Since there is no other way to hold
Tools for press-in cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are and turn the cups, in the worse case it may become impos-
described in the section for that bottom-bracket type. sible to remove the bottom-bracket assembly.
The preferred choices in table 10-1 are in bold. A tool is
THREAD-IN CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS (table 10-1)

SHIMANO-STYLE AND ISIS-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Park BBT-2 Use with 3/8" drive or 32mm headset wrench (older versions not ISIS compatible)
Lifu 11B0 Shimano only, use with 1/2" drive wrench
Lifu 11B1 Use with 1/2" drive wrench
Lifu 11B3 Use with 32mm headset wrench
Shimano TL-UN65 Shimano only, use with 1/2" drive or 32mm headset wrench
Shimano TL-UN74-S Use with 32mm headset wrench
VAR 996/PRO2 Shimano only, use with 32mm headset wrench (includes 8mm and 15mm retain-
ing bolt)
VAR 996/PRO2 Shimano only, has built-in handles (includes 8mm and 15mm retaining bolt)
Race Face Use with 1/2" drive or 8mm bit socket
Installation Tool
FSA Installation Tool Use with 1/2" drive or 8mm bit socket
Pedro's 6460200 Use with 1/2" drive or 24mm wrench
Lifu D8D4 Adapts 1/2" drive versions of above tools to be driven by 8mm bit socket
Stein BBT/Bolt Long 8mm bolt used to retain above tools when used with square-taper spindles
CAMPAGNOLO-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Park BBT-5 Fits Campagnolo splined cups (also fits Campagnolo cassette lockring)
Campagnolo 7130036 Fits Campagnolo splined cups (also fits Campagnolo cassette lockring)
VAR 414B Fits Campagnolo splined cups (also fits Campagnolo cassette lockring)
PHIL WOOD-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Phil Wood Fits Phil Wood splined cups
NOTCHED-FLANGE MOUNTING RINGS (all varieties)
TruVativ Fits notched-flange TruVativ ISIS bottom brackets, use with 1/2" drive or 32mm
BB-02-SPL-TOOL headset wrench (Park BBT-8 or Shimano TL-UN96 that fits certain XTR and
Dura-Ace non-cartridge bottom brackets are poor substitutes)
Park BBT-3 Fits notched-flange cups on KSS bottom brackets
Campagnolo 1130050 Fits notched-flange cups on Campagnolo, Sachs (works with torque wrench)
Park BBT-4 Fits notched-flange cups on Campagnolo, Sachs (won‘t work w/ torque wrench)
10 – 3
In some cases, if the splines in the cup on one side tom brackets. For thread information, see the BOTTOM-
are damaged, the other side may still be removable. Some- BRACKET THREADS table (page 9-5) in the ADJUSTABLE-
times the main assembly will come out along with the CUP BOTTOM BRACKETS chapter.
still-removable cup, or it may remain in the bottom-bracket
shell, still attached to the cup with the damaged splines.
If this occurs, it is possible that the main assembly and
the damaged cup are two separate pieces, and by applying THREAD-IN BOTTOM
impact to the end of the bottom-bracket spindle on the
same side as the damaged cup, it may be possible to drive the BRACKETS
main assembly out the side where the other cup has already
been removed. If this works, it will leave a threaded cup
in one end of the bottom-bracket shell. It may be possible
INTEGRATED-SPINDLE TYPES
These bottom brackets typically consist of two parts:
to collapse the empty cup in on itself or to use a cutting
a main assembly including an outer shell, bearings, and a
implement to carefully cut the cup into several sections,
spindle; and a separate cup. This two-part variety (see figure
which can then be easily removed. Minor thread damage
10.1) also has a threaded cup that is integrated with the outer
in the bottom-bracket shell that is the result of sectioning
shell for engagement to one end of the bottom-bracket shell.
the cup can be repaired with a bottom-bracket tap.
A common variation of this class of bottom bracket has
If the damaged splines are in a cup that is inte-
three basic parts, consisting of two separate cups and a main
grated into the main bottom-bracket assembly, then
assembly (including a shell, the bearings, and the spindle).
there is no recommended method for removal of the
Common brands with this design are American Clas-
damaged parts.
sic bottom brackets, Campagnolo bottom brackets, FSA
Damaged cup threads bottom brackets, Race Face bottom brackets, Phil Wood
Cups are often made of softer materials, such as bottom brackets, all Shimano cartridge-bearing bottom
aluminum or plastic. When cups made of these softer brackets (square-taper and splined varieties), and TruVativ
materials are threaded into a bottom-bracket shell with bottom brackets. Other less-seen brands might be similar to
poor condition threads, it is likely that the cup threads will the specific brands and models covered in this section, but
end up deformed or stripped. Particularly when the cups for brands not listed here, any model-specific information
are made of these softer materials, the need for cleaning must be obtained from the manufacturer.
the existing bottom-bracket-shell threads with a tap before
installing the cups is critical.
Removal
1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure for removal of
Creaking from the bottom bracket both crank arms.
With a thread-in cartridge-bearing bottom bracket, 2. [ ] Measure protrusion of right end of spindle
beyond face of right cup and record mea-
the fit between cups and the bottom-bracket assembly
surement here: __________mm
is generally a press fit. If the fit is loose, then motion
Most bottom brackets of this type have a flange on the
between the parts can create a creaking noise that is dif-
right-side cup that fixes the position of the bottom bracket,
ficult to isolate. The creaking noise can also be the result
but some models have no flange (so the chainring position
of insufficient torque on the cups.
can be adjusted). When removing and reinstalling a bottom
Similarly, pressed-in cartridge-bearing bottom
bracket with no flange (or replacing it with an identical one),
brackets can develop creaking due to a loose fit between
it is useful to measure the position of the right cup so the
the cartridge bearings and the bottom-bracket shell or
chainrings can be returned to their original position.
between the cartridge bearings and the spindle. 3. [ ] Flangeless right cup only: Measure amount
In each case, the use of Loctite eliminates the creaking face of cup protrudes beyond shell, then
noises by eliminating the motion. The use of grease to record measurement here: __________mm
eliminate the creaking noises is not recommended because In the next step, if the cup is fit by a splined tool, spe-
it only eliminates the noise and does not eliminate the cial care is needed to prevent the cup tool from slipping out
undesirable motion. of alignment and damaging the cup splines. If the cup is
difficult to turn, the chance of a failure is greatly increased.
THREADS A secondary device can be used to positively retain the
tool, if it seems that damage may occur. When the spindle
All thread-in cartridge-bearing bottom brackets fit the
same bottom-bracket-shell threads as adjustable-cup bot- is the type with a square taper, a long bolt can be inserted
through the cup tool and threaded into the spindle for
10 – 4
this purpose (see table 10-1 for brand and model of this 9. [ ] Note thickness of spacers (if any) found
device). When the spindle is the type with splines, then it between right-side cup and bottom-bracket
is usually hollow. In this case, depending on the diameter shell (see table 10-2) and record here:
of the hole through the spindle, a quick-release skewer or ______mm
a long axle with nuts can be inserted through the spindle Installation
and the tool to provide for the security of the tool. The cups may be steel, aluminum, or plastic. The
4. [ ] Engage tool to left-side cup, then turn bottom-bracket shell may be steel, aluminum, or tita-
counterclockwise to remove cup. NOTE: If nium. Whenever the cups and the bottom-bracket shell
removal is difficult, use secondary device to
are different metals, galvanic corrosion can potentially
stabilize tool until cup breaks loose.
5. [ ] Note thickness of spacers (if any) found fuse the cups permanently into the shell. This can be
between left-side cup and bottom-bracket prevented by using an appropriate type and quantity of
shell (see table 10-2) and record here: either anti-seize compound or Loctite. Although both
_______mm these materials can be effective in preventing corrosion,
6. [ ] Inspect left-side cup for thread identifica- each of these thread preparations has different advan-
tion information, if unsure of thread type. If tages and disadvantages.
unmarked, measure thread pitch and diame- Anti-seize compound is a thick, grease-like compound
ter, then use table 9-2 (page 9-5) to identify with special chemical properties that counteract galvanic
thread type. corrosion. For aluminum and steel material combinations,
7. [ ] Look up thread direction for right side of
a general anti-seize compound is sufficient. For titanium
bottom bracket in table 9-2 (page 9-5) then
circle correct direction here: left or right. mated with aluminum or steel, an anti-seize compound
8. [ ] Engage tool to right-side cup, then turn clock- made specifically for titanium gives the best results. In
wise if left was marked in step 7, or coun- either case, the disadvantages of working with anti-seize
terclockwise if right was marked in step 7. compounds are that they are messy and difficult to clean
NOTE: If removal is difficult, use secondary up, they may still wash out in the worst cases of exposure
device to stabilize tool until cup breaks loose. to moisture, and they do not enhance the security of the
cups. The advantage of anti-seize compound is that it retains
STOCK SPACING FOR CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM-BRACKETS (table 10-2)

Model Shell width E-type derailleur Left-side spacer Right-side spacer
American Classic ISIS 113mm 68mm no 2.5mm 2.5mm
American Classic ISIS 113mm 68mm yes 2.5mm none
American Classic ISIS 113mm 73mm no none none
Race Face SRX & Evolve (all lengths ) 1
68mm no none 2.5mm
68mm yes none none
73mm no none none
Shimano XTR BB-M952 (all lengths2) 68mm no 2.5mm 2.5mm
Shimano XTR BB-M952 (all lengths2) 68mm yes 2.5mm none
Shimano XTR BB-M952 (all lengths ) 2
73mm no none none
Shimano XTR BB-M952 (all lengths2) 73mm yes none none
TruVativ 108mm spindle 1
68mm no none none
68mm no none 2.5mm
TruVativ 113mm spindle (E & H models only)
1
68mm yes none none
TruVativ 113mm spindle1 73mm no none none
68mm no none 2.5mm
TruVativ 118mm spindle (E & H models only)
1
68mm yes none none
73mm no none none
TruVativ 118mm spindle1 (E & H models only) 73mm yes none none
1
Chainline varies with length. See table 10-7 (page 10–10) for other chainline options.
2
Achieves 47.5mm chainline with stock spacers. See table 9-5 (page 9-19) for other chainline options.
10 – 5
most of its benefit if the parts are taken apart and then chapter, page 27-3). Once correct chainring position has
reassembled without additional application of anti-seize. been established, measure the right-side cup position, then
Loctite is a compound that is applied to the threads complete the final installation of the bottom bracket.
and then cures after the installation of threaded item to 6. [ ] Flanged right cup only: Carefully hand-thread
a hard material. It seals the threaded area from exposure right-side cup into right side of bottom-bracket
to the atmosphere and moisture. Once cured, the effec- shell until threads have started cleanly, then
tiveness remains complete until the part is unthreaded. In thread cup in completely with tool.
Flangeless right cup only: Carefully hand-
addition to sealing the threaded area, Loctite increases the
thread right-side cup into right side of
level of security that is achieved through the torque setting bottom-bracket shell until threads have
on the threaded part. Loctite is less messy to work with started cleanly, then use tool to thread cup
than anti-seize compounds and cannot dry out, evaporate, in until original position is restored.
or wash out. Because Loctite on the threads adds security, 7. [ ] Three-part assembly only: Insert right end
it reduces the amount of torque needed to secure the part. of main assembly into left side of bottom-
The disadvantage of Loctite is that it breaks down if the bracket shell, then seat assembly against
threaded part is turned after the curing starts. Therefore, right-side cup.
each time the part is adjusted, or removed and reinstalled, 8. [ ] Reinstallation only: Install any spacer(s) noted
additional Loctite needs to be applied. during removal onto left-side cup.
New installation only: Refer to table 10-2
When installing new parts, consider any factory-
(page 10-5) or manufacturer’s instructions for
applied dry coating on the threads to be a form of Loctite. left-side spacer requirements, then install rec-
If the threads are not completely coated, additional Loctite ommended spacers onto left-side cup.
is needed to prevent corrosion. 9. [ ] Hand-thread in left-side cup until threads
1. [ ] New installation only: Measure width of have started cleanly, then snug left-side
bottom-bracket shell, then check specifica- cup with tool.
tions to confirm new assembly is suitable 10. [ ] Reinstallation of three-part assembly only:
for shell width. Confirm right end of axle protrudes same
2. [ ] Thoroughly treat metal cup threads with amount from face of right-side cup as
Loctite 242 or appropriate anti-seize com- recorded during removal.
pound. 11. [ ] If installing E-type front derailleur (mounts
3. [ ] Inspect assembly and cups for indications of to bottom bracket): Align front derailleur to
thread direction and for right-side or left-side mounting hole on frame, then install and
designations for whole assembly. In absence secure mounting bolt.
of either, inspect whether threads slope up 12. [ ] If Loctite is used: Secure left cup to mini-
to right or left when cups are held vertically mum torque (see manufacturer’s instructions
(up to left is left-hand thread). or table 10-3) or to 360in-lbs if no specifica-
4. [ ] Reinstallation only: Install any spacer(s) noted tion is available. Repeat for right cup.
during removal onto right-side cup. If Loctite is not used: Secure left cup to maxi-
New installation only: Refer to table 10-2 mum torque (see manufacturer’s instructions
(page 10-5) or manufacturer’s instructions or table 10-3) or to 420in-lbs if no specifica-
for right-side spacer requirements, then install tion is available. Repeat for right cup.
recommended spacers onto right-side cup.
5. [ ] If installing E-type front derailleur: Place CUP TORQUES (table 10-3)
derailleur mount over right-side cup. Bottom-bracket brand Torque range
In the next step, if the right-side cup has a flange, the American Classic 300–360in-lb
cup is simply threaded in until the flange meets the bottom-
Campagnolo 300–620in-lb
bracket shell. However, some models have no flange, and
Full Speed Ahead (FSA) 347–434in-lb
the final location of the right-side cup is adjustable for the
purpose of changing the chainring position. If a flangeless Phil Wood 300in-lb
variety is being reinstalled, or replaced with a matching one, Race Face 420in-lb
then the position of the right-side cup should have been Shimano (metal splines only) 435–608in-lb
noted during disassembly. If a flangeless variety is being Shimano (plastic splines only) 350in-lbs
installed without this information, then the final right-side TruVativ 300–360in-lb
cup position needs to be determined by trial and error.
13. [ ] Use appropriate procedure for installation of
Install the bottom bracket and right crank arm, then check
both crank arms.
for clearance and chainline problems (see the CHAINLINE
10 – 6
Shimano square-taper-spindle bottom-

bracket interchangeability
Shimano is the dominant variety of square-taper-spin- L Bottom-bracket R
dle cartridge-bearing bottom brackets. Table 10-4 shows the shell
variety of square-taper bottom brackets made by Shimano.
There are variations in what shell width the bottom bracket
fits and whether it can used with an E-type derailleur. To Right installing
use an E-type derailleur, usually a bottom bracket must be
an E-type bottom bracket. The letter code “E” is added to Left installing
the model name for this purpose. For example, a UN52 is
not E-type compatible, but a UN52-E is E-type compatible.
When replacing one cartridge with another, the shell-width
designation of the replacement (found on the cartridge L Bottom-bracket R
shell
body) must match the original, except that a 73mm-shell
model can be used in a 68mm shell with the addition of a
2.5mm spacer on each side. The E-type bottom brackets
can be used for non-E-type derailleurs if a 2.5mm spacer 10.2 With some Shimano bottom brackets, the main
assembly is installed from the right, and with others it is
is installed on the drive side in place of the derailleur- installed from the left.
mounting bracket.
Shimano cartridge-bearing bottom-bracket spindles Because different models of cranksets used on the same
are marked with letter codes that correspond to differ- length of spindle could have different chainline values, the
ent length spindles. These codes and the corresponding Relative chainline column does not show the actual chainline,
spindle lengths are: but the amount of increase in chainline that each spindle
MM 107mm and 110.5mm length creates over the shortest available length. For example,
LL 113mm if the bike is currently equipped with a crankset that has a
D-H 115mm 47.5mm chainline when used with the existing bottom bracket
YL 116mm with an LL spindle (relative chainline +3) , then installing a
XL 118mm bottom bracket with an XL spindle (relative chainline +5)
ZL 121mm increases the chainline by 2mm to 49.5mm.
NL 122.5mm
SHIMANO SQUARE-TAPER-SPINDLE
EL 127.5mm
Most Shimano cartridges install from the right BOTTOM BRACKETS (table 10-4)
side of the bottom-bracket shell. This includes all the Relative Right-installing Left-installing
chainline cartridge cartridge
XTR, Dura-Ace, 105, UN, ES, and TY models, plus the
0 MM MM
CT91, CT92, CS15, and LP28 models. The remaining
CT, CS, and LP models install from the left side of the +1 MM + 1mm spacer LL & D-H + 2mm spacer
bottom-bracket shell. +2 MM + 2mm spacer LL & D-H + 1mm spacer
By adding spacers between the main assembly +3 LL & D-H LL & D-H
flange and the shell, the chainline can be changed. Some +4 YL, LL & D-H + 1mm spacer YL, & XL + 1mm spacer
bottom brackets will accept a 2mm spacer, but bottom +5 XL XL
brackets with a plastic cup on one side can only have +6 XL + 1mm spacer ZL & NL + 2mm spacer
a 1mm spacer added. In table 10-4, when spacers are
+7 XL + 2mm spacer NL + 1mm spacer
needed to achieve a specific chainline value, the spacer
thickness indicated following the Shimano letter code +8 NL NL
needs to be added between the bottom-bracket shell +9 NL + 1mm spacer EL + 2mm spacer
and the main assembly flange. Note: Bottom brackets with +10 NL + 2mm spacer EL + 1mm spacer
plastic cups will not accept more than 1mm of spacer thickness +11 EL EL
under the main assembly flange! Note: Shimano makes different versions of most cartridge models that fit
68mm, 70mm, and 73mm bottom-bracket shells. Always use a cartridge with
a designation that matches the shell size.
Note: If using an E-type front derailleur, the model designation must include
an “E.”
10 – 7
Campagnolo square-taper-spindle 9mm-spline (Shimano Octalink) bottom-

bottom-bracket interchangeability bracket interchangeability
Campagnolo square-taper-spindle bottom brackets are The Shimano-designed Octalink splined spindle is made
not interchangeable with the Shimano type due to unique in two varieties, one with a 5mm spline length and the other
spindle and taper lengths. Within the Campagnolo brand, with a 9mm spline length. Both configurations have eight
there are three varieties. The first variety is distinguished splines and are the same diameter, but due to differences in
by the presence of splined holes in the face of each cup spline thickness and length, they are not interchangeable.
(for the engagement of the installation tool) and the fact 9mm 2.8mm
that the drive-side (right) cup has a flange. All Record and
Chorus cartridge-bearing bottom brackets are of this vari-
ety. For simplicity, this variety is called “single flange” from Long spline
here on. The second variety also has splined holes in the
cup faces, but it is distinguished by the lack of any flanges
on the cups. This variety is only seen as part of the Athena
model group (now discontinued). For simplicity, this vari- 5mm 2.2mm
ety is called “flangeless” from here on. The third variety is
distinguished by the presence of six semi-circular notches
in both cup flanges (for the engagement of the installation Short spline
tool). This variety has been part of the Centaur, Mirage,
Veloce, and Xenon model groups. For simplicity, this variety
is called “double flange” from here on. Only the Record and 10.3 Shimano Octalink splines.
Chorus cranksets can be used with the single-flange bottom
brackets. The flangeless and the notched-flange bottom The 9mm-spline version is available in several mod-
brackets are interchangeable and are used with the Athena, els, including BB-ES70, BB-ES71, and BB-ES50 bottom
Centaur, Mirage, Veloce, and Xenon cranksets. Table 10-5 brackets. When “-E” is added to the end of these model
summarizes interchangeability for all three types. names, or the shell width is shown as 68E or 73E, the
CAMPAGNOLO SQUARE-TAPER-SPINDLE bottom bracket is officially made specifically for use
BOTTOM BRACKETS (table 10-5) with E-type derailleurs. Shimano specifications further
Length (all available for Cups Use with seat Chainline indicate that those without the “-E” in the model name
68mm & 70mm shells) tube diameter can only be used with non-E-type derailleurs. However,
Double flange and flangeless (all models except Record and Chorus) table 10-6 (page 10-9) shows how exceptions can be
111mm symmetrical Double all 43.5mm
made to these specifications.
All of these models are made in configurations
111mm symmetrical Triple 28.6mm 45.0mm
specific to 68mm or 73mm bottom-bracket shell widths.
115.5mm asymmetrical Triple 32.0–35.0mm 47.5mm The E-type bottom brackets can be used for non-E-type
Single flange (Record and Chorus only) derailleurs if a 2.5mm spacer is installed on the drive side
102mm symmetrical Double all 43.5mm in place of the derailleur-mounting bracket. The 73mm-
111mm asymmetrical Triple all 46.5mm shell models can be used in 68mm shells with the addition
111mm symmetrical Single n/a n/a of a 2.5mm spacer on each side. Table 10-6 shows some
additional exceptions for the purpose of modifying the
stock chainline values.
In each of these variations (shell width and derailleur
type), there is a choice between 113mm spindle length
and 118mm spindle length. In all cases, the 113mm
spindle length produces a 47.5mm chainline, and the
118mm spindle length produces a 50.0mm chainline. The
47.5mm chainline is generally preferable, unless there
are problems with adequate inward travel of the front
derailleur (most likely when the derailleur is mounted
to a seat tube larger than 28.6mm diameter) or if the
chainring-to-frame clearance is less than 2mm.
10 – 8
As shown in table 10-6, chainline can be adjusted
9MM-SPLINE BOTTOM BRACKETS incrementally by using a bottom bracket intended for a
(table 10-6)
different shell and derailleur setup than the one being
Models ES50, ES70, & ES71: Spacer Chainline
Shell width & derailleur/spindle (mm) on right used, in combinations with spacers added between the
Installed in 68mm shell width with standard derailleur
drive-side cup and the bottom-bracket shell. For those
bottom brackets that utilize spacers for chainline adjust-
68E/113 none 45.0mm
ment, there are spacers available in 1mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm,
68E/113 1.0mm 46.0mm
and 2.5mm dimensions. By using these singly or in com-
68E/113 1.5mm 46.5mm
binations, any spacing can be achieved from 1.0mm
68E/113 2.0mm 47.0mm through 2.5mm (the largest recommended amount).
68E/113, 73/113 2.5mm 47.5mm In combinations using an E-type derailleur and a non-
68/113 none 47.5mm E-type bottom bracket, the spacer should go between the
68E/118 2.5mm 47.5mm derailleur bracket and the drive-side cup. In combinations
68/113, 68E/118 1.0mm 48.5mm using an E-type derailleur and an E-type bottom bracket
68/113, 68E/118 1.5mm 49.0mm for a 73mm shell, the spacer should go between the derail-
68/113, 68E/118, 73/118 2.0mm 49.5mm leur bracket and the bottom-bracket shell.
68E/118, 73/118 2.5mm 50.0mm
68/118 none 50.0mm
5mm-spline (Shimano Octalink) bottom-
Installed in 68mm shell width with E-type derailleur bracket interchangeability
73E/113 1.0mm1 46.0mm The Shimano-designed Octalink splined spindle is
73E/113 1.5mm1 46.5mm
made in two varieties, one with a 5mm spline length and
the other with a 9mm spline length. Both configurations
73E/113 2.0mm 1
47.0mm
have eight splines and are the same diameter, but due
73E/113 2.5mm 1
47.5mm
to differences in spline thickness and length, they are
68E/113, 73/113, 73E/118 none 47.5mm
not interchangeable.
68E/113, 73/113, 73E/118 1.0mm 2
48.5mm
9mm 2.8mm
68E/113, 73/113, 73E/118 1.5mm2 49.0mm
73/113, 73E/118 2.0mm2 49.5mm
73/113, 73E/118 2.5mm2 50.0mm
Long spline
68E/118, 73/118 none 50.0mm
Installed in 73mm shell width with standard derailleur
73E/113 none 45.0mm
73E/113 1.0mm 46.0mm 5mm 2.2mm
73E/113 1.5mm 46.5mm
73E/113 2.0mm 47.0mm
73E/113 2.5mm 47.5mm Short spline
73/113, 73E/118 none 47.5mm
73/113, 73E/118 1.0mm 48.5mm
73/113, 73E/118 1.5mm 49.0mm 10.4 Shimano Octalink splines.
73/113, 73E/118 2.0mm 49.5mm
The 5mm spline length is found on XTR, Dura-Ace,
73/113, 73E/118 2.5mm 50.0mm
Ultegra, and 105 model bottom brackets. Some of these
73/118 none 50.0mm models are available both as cartridge-bearing bottom
Installed in 73mm shell width with E-type derailleur brackets and as adjustable-cup bottom brackets. See 5MM-
73E/113 none 47.5mm SPLINE BOTTOM-BRACKET INTERCHANGEABILITY on page 9-18
73E/113 1.0mm1 48.5mm for interchangeability of all bottom bracket types with a
73E/118 none 50.0mm 5mm spline length.
1
With 68E and 73E, spacer(s) install between derailleur
bracket and shell.
2
With 73/113, spacer(s) install between derailleur
bracket and cup flange.
10 – 9
ISIS bottom-bracket interchangeability a specific crankset in a constant position regardless of

The ISIS configuration bottom bracket is a ten- brand or model. However, different models have varying
spline system utilized primarily by American Classic, capacities to be modified or adjusted. Table 10-7 shows
FSA, Race Face, and TruVativ. At the time of this writ- these variations.
ing, any spindle/crank-arm interface with ten splines Table 10-7 is a list of all possible ISIS bottom-bracket
is the ISIS configuration. The ISIS standard insures setups for 68mm, 70mm, and 73mm shells and the con-
that bottom brackets of equal spindle length position sequential chainline values. This table is limited to spindle
ISIS-SPLINE BOTTOM BRACKETS (table 10-7)

Brand: model types Shell width Spindle length Left-side spacer Right-side spacer Minimum chainline Maximum chainline
Installed in 68mm shell with standard derailleur (clamp type)
Race Face: flangeless 68mm 108mm 0.01 4.01
American Classic: all 68mm 108mm 1.5 1.5
FSA: 68 type 68mm 108mm 0–1.5mm 1.5 3.0
Race Face: flanged 68mm 113mm 0–3.5mm 1.5 5.0
TruVativ: all 68mm 108mm 1.5 1.5
TruVativ: all 68mm 113mm 0–2.5mm 1.5 4.0
American Classic: all 68mm 113mm 3.5–1.5mm2 1.5–3.5mm2 3.0 5.0
FSA: 68 type 68mm 113mm 0–1.5mm 4.0 5.5
TruVativ: all 68mm 118mm 0–2.5mm 4.5 7.0
FSA: 68 type 68mm 118mm 0–1.5mm 7.0 8.5
Race Face: flanged 68mm 118mm 0–1.5mm 7.0 8.5
Installed in 68mm shell with E-type derailleur
American Classic: all 68mm 113mm 2.5–1.5mm2 0-1.0mm2 4.0 5.0
FSA: 68E type 68mm 113mm 0-1.5mm 4.0 5.5
Race Face: flanged 68mm 113mm 0-1.0mm 4.0 5.0
FSA: 70 type 70mm 108 0-1.5mm 1.5 3.0
FSA: 70 type 70mm 118 0-1.5mm 7.0 8.5
American Classic: all 73mm 113mm 4.0 4.0
FSA: 73 type 73mm 113mm 0-1.5mm 4.0 5.5
FSA: 73 type 73mm 118mm 0-1.5mm 7.0 8.5
Race Face: flanged 73mm 118mm 7.0 7.0
Installed in 73mm shell with E-type derailleur
FSA: 73E-type 73mm 113mm 0-1.5mm 4.0 5.5
TruVativ: E-type 73mm 118mm 7.0 7.0
1
Because the cups have no flanges and have extra thread, the bottom bracket can be moved left/right up to 4mm.
2
Right-side and left-side spacers (including derailleur bracket, if any) must total 5.0mm.
10 – 10
lengths up to 118mm. Some varieties with a flange on
the right-side cup can be adjusted for chainline by use
SEPARATE-SPINDLE TYPES
This variety of bottom bracket is distinguished by the
of spacers behind the flange, but not all flanged models
fact that the cartridge bearings can be separated from the
have this capacity. In certain cases, models with no flanges
spindle. When a bottom bracket of this type is installed, it
on the cups can be positioned in a range of position in
may not appear unique, but when it is out, if it is of this
the bottom-bracket shell for the purpose of adjusting
type, then the center section of the spindle (between the
chainline. In table 10-7, when the Minimum Chainline and
bearings) will be visible.
Maximum Chainline columns are the same, there is no means
The spindle typically has shoulders that support the
of adjustment. These chainline values are relative, not
bearings, and the bearings are either a slip fit or a press
absolute. The difference between the numbers indicates
fit onto the spindle. In some instances, the spindle has
the amount of change that occurs when switching one
no shoulders, and the position of the spindle relative to
choice for another. For example, a crankset is installed,
the cups and bearings is set by means of locking collars
and the current chainline is 45mm. The existing bottom
on the spindle, found just outward from the cups. These
bracket is a Race Face flanged model in a 68mm shell
locking collars are easily identified by the presence of small
(with no spacer). It has a spindle length of 113mm. This
hex-key set screws in their perimeters. If locking collars
bottom-bracket, shell, and spindle combination has a
are present, they must be removed before disassembling
potential relative chainline range of 1.5–5.0, but since
the bottom bracket.
the current setup has no spacer, the relative chainline is
The most common variety of the separate-spindle
the minimum 1.5. An FSA (68 type) bottom bracket with a
style of cartridge-bearing bottom brackets has notched
113mm spindle is being considered as a replacement. Since
lockrings threaded onto both cups. This characteristic
it has a minimum relative chainline of 4.0, the chainrings
generally identifies the bottom bracket as one covered
would end up 2.5mm further out (4.0-1.5=2.5), resulting
by this section. However, a few on the less common car-
in a chainline of 47.5mm (45+2.5=47.5).
tridge-bearing bottom brackets with integrated spindles
For those bottom brackets that utilize spacers for
also have two lockrings.
chainline adjustment, there are spacers available in 1mm,
Some varieties of this bottom bracket appear very
1.5mm, 2.0mm, and 2.5mm dimensions. By using these singly
similar to an adjustable-cup non-cartridge-bearing bot-
or in combinations, any spacing can be achieved from 1.0mm
tom bracket when installed. There is a notched lockring
through 3.5mm (the largest recommended amount).
threaded onto the left cup and two wrench flats on the
Table 10-7 is divided into sections for each combina-
right-side cup. With this variety, you may not realize you
tion of shell width and derailleur type (E-type or standard
are working on a cartridge-bearing bottom bracket until
clamp). Many models work with E-type derailleurs without
the left-side cup has been removed.
being specifically designated as such, but certain models
must be specified as E-type to be used with the E-type Removal
derailleur. If this is the case, some part of the model- 1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure to remove both
designation code will include the letter E. Additionally, crank arms.
some models work with a variety of shell widths, and 2. [ ] Locking-collar types only: Measure amount
axle protrudes from right-side cup face, then
some are made for specific shell widths. When either
loosen all set screws and remove locking col-
of these conditions are the case, the entry in the Models
lars from spindle: __________mm
column specifies E type, 68 type, 70 type, or 73 type. In All except locking-collar types: Measure
these cases, the manufacturer’s model code should include amount axle protrudes from right-side cup
the corresponding letter or number. When the entry in face: __________mm
the Models column contains no such reference, then that 3. [ ] Lockring types only: Use lockring spanner to
model works for all conditions. loosen left-side lockring (counterclockwise).
ISIS bottom brackets exist for shell widths greater 4. [ ] Turn adjustable cup counterclockwise to
than 73mm and for spindle lengths in excess of 118mm. remove it.
These configurations are used for downhill-specific moun- 5. [ ] Remove spindle or spindle/bearing assembly
from left side of bottom-bracket shell. Check
tain bikes that utilize single chainrings. The options are
if spindle is symmetrical, and if not, which
limited enough that there is little value in including them
end was on the drive side.
in table 10-7. Fortunately, chainline is far less critical in
bikes made for this purpose.
10 – 11
6. [ ] Inspect left-side cup for thread identifica- compounds are that they are messy and difficult to clean
tion information if unsure of thread type. If up, they may still wash out in the worst cases of exposure
unmarked, measure thread pitch and diam- to moisture, and they do not enhance the security of the
eter, then use table 9-2 (page 9-5) to iden- cups. The advantage of anti-seize compound is that it retains
tify thread type.
most of its benefit if the parts are taken apart and then
7. [ ] Look up thread direction for right side of
reassembled without additional application of anti-seize.
bottom bracket in table 9-2 (page 9-5) then
circle correct direction here: left or right. Loctite is a compound that is applied to the threads,
8. [ ] Lockring types only: Use lockring spanner and then cures after the installation of threaded item to
to remove right-side lockring (clockwise if a hard material. It seals the threaded area from exposure
left was marked in step 7, or counterclock- to the atmosphere and moisture. Once cured, the effec-
wise if right was marked in step 7), then tiveness remains complete until the part is unthreaded. In
measure amount cup protrudes from right addition to sealing the threaded area, Loctite increases the
end of shell: __________mm level of security that is achieved through the torque setting
9. [ ] Engage tool to right-side cup, then turn clock- on the threaded part. Loctite is less messy to work with
wise if left was marked in step 7, or coun-
than anti-seize compounds and cannot dry out, evaporate,
terclockwise if right was marked in step 7.
or wash out. Because Loctite on the threads adds security,
NOTE: If removal is difficult, use secondary
device to stabilize tool until cup breaks loose. it reduces the amount of torque needed to secure the part.
10. [ ] If cartridge bearings on spindle are being The disadvantage of Loctite is that it breaks down if the
replaced, support inside face of bearing on threaded part is turned after the curing starts. Therefore,
top of vise jaws (spindle between jaws, but each time the part is adjusted, or removed and reinstalled,
not clamped), then tap on end of spindle additional Loctite needs to be applied.
with mallet to drive spindle out of bearing. When installing new parts, consider any factory-applied
Repeat for other side. dry coating on the threads to be a form of Loctite. If the
In some cases, the cartridge bearings are a press fit in threads are not completely coated, additional Loctite is
each cup. To remove a bearing from a cup, the cup should needed to prevent corrosion.
be reinstalled in the bottom bracket, and a bearing removal 1. [ ] Inspect cups for thread direction or side-
tool is needed. The most universal tool for this purpose is of-bike information. In absence of either,
the Bicycle Research Sealed Bearing Removal Kit (#SBR- inspect whether threads slope up to right or
K). Alternatively, a spindle with shoulders can be used to left when cups are held vertically (up to left
drive the bearing out, and then step #10 can be used to is left-hand thread).
remove the bearing from the spindle. 2. [ ] Treat cup threads with appropriate Loctite or
11. [ ] If cartridge bearings in cups are being anti-seize compound.
replaced, install cup back in shell to use 3. [ ] Flanged right cup only: Carefully hand-thread
bearing removal tool, then remove cup. right-side cup into right side of bottom-bracket
Repeat for other side. shell until threads have started cleanly, then
thread cup in completely with tool.
Installation Lockring type only: Carefully hand-thread
The cups may be steel or aluminum. The bottom- right-side cup into right side of bottom-bracket
bracket shell may be steel, aluminum, or titanium. Whenever shell until threads have started cleanly, then
the cups and the bottom-bracket shell are different metals, use tool to thread cup in until original posi-
galvanic corrosion can potentially fuse the cups permanently tion is restored.
4. [ ] Only if bearings are not in cups: Place bear-
into the shell. This can be prevented by using an appropriate
ings over each end of spindle, then press on
type and quantity of either anti-seize compound or Loctite. as far as possible by hand.
Although both these materials can be effective in preventing 5. [ ] Insert right end of spindle or spindle/bearing
corrosion, each of these thread preparations has different assembly into left side of bottom-bracket shell,
advantages and disadvantages. then seat assembly against right-side cup.
Anti-seize compound is a thick, grease-like compound 6. [ ] Hand-thread in left-side cup until threads
with special chemical properties that counteract galvanic are started cleanly, then snug left-side cup
corrosion. For aluminum and steel material combinations, with tool.
a general anti-seize compound is sufficient. For titanium
mated with aluminum or steel, an anti-seize compound
made specifically for titanium gives the best results. In
either case, the disadvantages of working with anti-seize
10 – 12
7. [ ] All except locking-collar types: Confirm right 5. [ ] Support inner face of bearing on top of vise
end of axle protrudes same amount from face (with spindle inside jaws, but not clamped),
of right-side cup as recorded during removal. then tap on spindle end with mallet to drive
Locking-collar types only: Move spindle as spindle out of bearing.
necessary to set desired right-side axle protru- The remaining bearing needs to be removed from the
sion from cup face, then install locking collars shell. The most universal tool for this purpose is the Bicycle
and secure set screws. Research Sealed Bearing Removal Kit (#SBR-K). A CalVan
8. [ ] Flanged cup only, if Loctite is used: Secure #28 bearing extractor is an effective, but crude, alternative
cup to minimum torque (see manufacturer’s
tool. A third alternative is that a spindle with shoulders
instructions) or to 360in-lbs if no specifica-
tion is available. can be used to drive the bearing out, and then step #10
Flanged cup only, if Loctite is not used: can be used to remove the bearing from the spindle. If the
Secure cup to maximum torque (see manu- spindle has locking collars instead of shoulders, it may not
facturer’s instructions) or to 420in-lbs if no be effective for driving out the bearing.
specification is available. 6. [ ] Use bearing-extractor tool (or spindle) to
9. [ ] Lockring type only: Secure lockring(s) to drive out other bearing.
equivalent of 300in-lbs.
10. [ ] Use appropriate procedure for installation of
Installation
1. [ ] Locking-collar type only: Reposition locking
both crank arms.
collars if desired, then secure set screws.
11. [ ] Double-lockring types: Check chainring posi-
2. [ ] Locking-collar and shouldered types only:
tion to determine if cups need to be reposi-
Place bearing on top of vise, with jaws open
tioned to improve chainring position.
just enough to clear spindle, then insert spin-
Locking-collar types: Check chainring posi-
dle into bearing and use mallet to tap spindle
tion to determine if collars need to be reposi-
in until collar or shoulder is against bearing
tioned to improve chainring position.
(check that right-side protrusion is correct).
Shoulderless type only: Place bearing on top
of vise, with jaws open just enough to clear
PRESS-IN BOTTOM spindle, then insert spindle into bearing and

use mallet to tap spindle in until right end
BRACKETS matches original protrusion.

3. [ ] Treat outer surface of both bearings with
Some press-in cartridge-bearing bottom brackets have Loctite RC680 (or equivalent).
cartridge bearings held in by a mild press fit and retained 4. [ ] Place left end of spindle/bearing assembly
by snap rings in a groove in the bottom-bracket shell. fully into right end of bottom-bracket shell,
Others rely more on a strong press fit or Loctite to keep then place remaining bearing over spindle
the bearings secure, and there are no snap rings. and against shell.
Other variations exist in the design of the spindle. In the next step, the bearings need to be pressed into
The spindle may have two shoulders that position it in the the shell. There is not a tool made specifically for this pur-
bearings and shell (shouldered type). Instead of integrated pose, but there is a bicycle tool made for another purpose
shoulders, there may be locking collars that are adjustable that can be useful. The Stein #FCC1 is a tool made to help
and are secured by set screws (locking-collar type). The retain a fixed-cup wrench to the fixed cup of a bottom
least common variety has neither shoulders or set screws bracket shell. The tool consists of a large cylinder and a
and is fixed in position strictly by the press fit between the threaded shaft. For the purpose of pressing the bearings
spindle and the bearings (shoulderless type). in, remove the threaded shaft and place the large-hole end
of the cylinder against the face of the bearing.
Removal 5. [ ] Alternating between sides frequently, use
1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure to remove crank mallet on Stein FCC1 tool to tap each bear-
arms. ing completely into shell.
2. [ ] Record right-end spindle protrusion (from In the next step, a drift punch is suggested, but a
shell face) here: __________mm standard adjustable cup can be placed against the bearing
3. [ ] Snap-ring type only: Remove snap rings with (flat-face first) for a similar purpose.
snap-ring pliers. 6. [ ] Snap-ring type only: Carefully use drift
4. [ ] Use plastic mallet to drive spindle out of against outer perimeter of bearing to drive
shell (one bearing should also come out). each bearing in just enough to clear snap-
ring grooves in shell, then install snap rings.
10 – 13
11 – HEADSETS
Locknut
Washer
Adjustable race
Bearing
Seal
Upper head-tube race
Lower head-tube race
Bearing
Fork-crown race
Seal
Adjuster cup
Non-integral race
Roller-bearing retainer
Integral race
Upper pressed piece
Lower pressed piece
Conical-race/retainer
sandwich
Fork-race mount
11 – HEADSETS
TIME AND DIFFICULTY 11 – 5
HEADSET FIT 11 – 8
HEADSET SERVICE 11 – 1
STEM AND FORK REMOVAL 11 – 11
BEARING REMOVAL 11 – 13
CLEANING 11 – 13
INSPECTION 11 – 14
REMOVING RACES OR MOUNTS 11 – 15
INSTALLING RACES OR MOUNTS 11 – 17
ASSEMBLY 11 – 21
ADJUSTMENT 11 – 24
STACK-HEIGHT TABLES 11 – 27
HEADSET TROUBLESHOOTING 11 – 33
11 – HEADSETS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER head tube by means of a press fit. This method is still most
common. The second method, which is much newer, is
Headset types that the head tube is shaped to receive cartridge bearings or
There are many different designs of headsets. The cups that slip (not press) into the head tube and seat against
aspects of design that affect service procedures include a conical surface that is formed as part of the head tube.
differences in the bearing-adjustment system, differences The bearing parts have a mating conical shape where they
in the types of bearings, differences in the method by contact the head tube.
which the headset joins with the head tube, differences The methods by which the headset attaches to the fork
in the method by which the headset joins the fork crown, crown are by press fit or by a compression ring. Compres-
and differences in dimensional standards. sion rings are conically shaped rings with a compression slot
The two common headset-adjustment systems are com- that allows the ring to constrict when pressure is applied to
monly known by the terms “threaded” and “threadless.” the conical surface.
Threaded headsets are designed to be used with forks that Independent of the means by which the headset parts
have threads on the fork column. An adjustable race threads secure to the head tube, the fork column, and the fork
onto the fork, and its position is secured by means of a crown, there are a larger variety of dimensional standards.
threaded locknut. The “threadless” system has an adjust- Threaded headsets have been made to fit three common
ing race or bearing mount that slides onto an unthreaded thread descriptions, as well as at least that many additional
fork column until it contacts the upper bearing. The top obscure ones. Threadless headsets have been made to fit
face of this adjuster is conical. A compression ring, which four different fork-column diameters. The dimension of
is a conical ring with a compression slot, inserts between the head tube where pressed headset parts join the head
the conical face of the adjuster and the fork column. As tube has been made in almost countless standards, of which
a preload-adjusting screw on top of the stem is tightened, three to four are common today. The dimension of the
the compression ring is wedged between the adjuster and fork column where the crown race or mount attaches has
the fork column, thereby securing the adjuster. a similar range of standards.
There are three basic types of bearing systems utilized
in headsets: cup-and-cone ball bearings, tapered needle
Sections
All the variations of headset design described in the
bearings, and cartridge bearings. The original cup-and cone
preceding comments complicate the structure of the pro-
system is still widely utilized. Cup-and-cone systems con-
cedures in this chapter, because the variations can be mixed
sist of three basic parts that can be separated from each
and matched in at least twenty permutations. For example,
other. Typically, there is a cup race built into the headset
whether a headset has a “threaded” or “threadless” adjust-
part that is fixed to the head tube and a cone race built into
ment system has no effect on whether the bearing system
part that fits to the fork. Between the cup and cone are
is cup-and-cone, needle, or cartridge. Similarly, almost any
ball bearings, which may be in a retainer (cage) or may be
head-tube attachment system may be combined with almost
loose. Needle-bearing systems also consist of three basic
any bearing design, any adjustment system, or any fork-
parts that can be separated from each other. The bear-
crown attachment method. For this reason, the sections in
ings themselves are cylindrical and are always contained
this chapter are not organized by types of headset, but by
in a conically shaped retainer. This retainer is sandwiched
the types of processes.
between two conical races. These races my be built into
The first section of this chapter is designed as general
the parts that press into the head tube and onto the fork,
information for all types of headsets and includes detailed
or they may be separate from either or both. Cartridge
information on dimensions and fit. The second section is
bearings are made in a variety of designs, all of which
HEADSET SERVICE, which is further divided into subsec-
have a common characteristic that the bearings and the
tions for STEM AND FORK REMOVAL, BEARING REMOVAL,
races are an integrated and enclosed unit. Unless this unit
CLEANING, INSPECTION, REMOVING RACES OR MOUNTS,
is disassembled, the actual bearings are never visible.
INSTALLING RACES OR MOUNTS, ASSEMBLY, and
Headsets attach to the head tube by one of two meth-
ADJUSTMENT. The next section is STACK-HEIGHT TABLES,
ods. The original method is that parts are secured to the
and the final section is TROUBLESHOOTING.
11 – 1
11 – HEADSETS
GENERAL INFORMATION Cup: A part that ball bearings roll on that is outside the
circle of ball bearings. The sloped race on which the bearings
roll has a concave profile. A cup is installed into either end of
TERMINOLOGY the head tube or may thread onto the fork column.
Fork: The portion of the frame that attaches directly
Locknut to the front wheel and allows the front wheel to rotate
Washer side-to-side relative to the rest of the frame.
Adjustable race Fork crown: The large joining piece between the base
Bearing
of the fork column and the top of the fork blades.
Fork-crown race: The bearing race that is pressed onto
Seal
the base of the fork column. It may be a cone or a cup, but
Upper head-tube race is virtually always a cone. Sometimes called a crown race.
Fork column: The tube at the top of the fork that
rotates inside the head tube. The fork column may also be
called steering column, steering tube, steerer tube, or fork steerer.
Lower head-tube race Fork-column base: The largest-diameter portion of
the fork column, at the absolute bottom of the fork column.
Bearing The fork-crown race presses onto the fork-column base.
Fork-crown race Headset: The bearing assembly that allows the fork
Seal to rotate in the frame’s head tube.
11.1 Parts in a traditional threaded headset. Head tube: The semi-vertical tube at the front of
the frame inside which the fork rotates.
Adjustable cup or cone: A bearing cup that threads Integrated headset: An unofficial term for a head-
onto the fork column would be an adjustable cup. A cone set design which has no pressed-in races or mounts. The
could serve this function also, so a more generic term design requires a specially designed head tube, which has
might be adjustable race, which would include an adjustable seats for cartridge bearings or bearing races formed into
cup or an adjustable cone. On a threadless headset the the head tube.
adjustable cone does not thread onto the fork column, Lower head-tube race: The pressed race that installs
but slips on effortlessly. in the lower end of the head tube. It may be a cone or a
Adjustable race: A bearing cup or cone that threads cup, but is virtually always a cup.
onto the fork column would be an adjustable race. In a Locknut: A nut that threads onto a fork column
threadless headset the adjustable race does not thread onto against an adjustable race to lock the position of the
the fork column, but slips on effortlessly. adjustable race to the fork column.
Ball bearing: A bearing that has a spherical shape. Lockring: Similar to a locknut, but instead of having the
Ball bearings are usually contained in a clip or cage called flats that are fit by regular wrenches, a lockring is round and
a retainer but may be used without the retainer, in which has notches that are engaged by a curved tool with hooks.
case they are called loose balls. Mount: A pressed piece that is similar to a pressed
Cable hanger: A bracket used by some brake systems race, but does not include the surface on which the bear-
that is installed under the headset locknut to serve as a ings roll. A race or a cartridge bearing is fixed in position
stop for the brake-cable housing. by a mount. The mount generally has a flat-slope conical
Cartridge bearing: A self-contained and enclosed shape where it engages the bearing or bearing part.
unit that includes the bearings, races, and seals. Needle bearing: A bearing that has a cylindrical
Compression ring: A split ring that binds to the shape. Needle bearings in headsets are always in a retainer
surface it encircles when load is applied to the ring’s coni- that arranges the needles in a conical shape.
cal outer surface. Pressed race: A race that is pressed onto the fork
Cone: A part that ball bearings roll on that is inside column or into the head tube.
the circle of ball bearings. The sloped race on which the Race: The surface on which bearings roll. This sur-
bearings roll has a concave profile. A cone may thread onto face is concave if the bearings are spherical (ball bearings)
the fork column, or it may be pressed into the top end of or flat if the bearings are cylindrical (needle bearings). A
the head tube or the bottom of the fork column. misuse of this term is to use it to describe a set of ball
Crown-race seat: The top surface of the fork crown bearings held together in a holder, which is more properly
on which the fork-crown race sits. called a retainer.
11 – 2
11 – HEADSETS
Reflector bracket: A bracket that mounts under the
headset locknut for mounting of a front reflector.
INDICATIONS
There are several reasons a headset may need to be
Retainer: A clip that holds a group of balls that fit in
adjusted and several reasons it may need to be overhauled.
between two races. Alternately, a retainer may be called a
Adjustment should generally be done on the basis of need
cage. A retainer is sometimes falsely called a race.
(looseness or tight rotation). Overhaul should be done as
Seal: A plastic, rubber, or rubber-coated-metal ring
part of a regular maintenance cycle, the duration of which
that covers the gap between an inner and an outer race,
will change depending on the type of riding conditions,
for the purpose of protecting the grease and bearings
the amount of riding, and the type of equipment.
from contamination.
Seat: A surface on which a cartridge bearing or a bear- Maintenance cycles
ing race sits. The seat can be part of a mount, which is If starting out with a headset known to be in good
pressed into the head tube or onto the fork, or it can be a condition with good-quality grease, it should last thou-
surface that is part of the head tube or the fork crown. sands of miles without needing an overhaul. If the equip-
Star nut: A nut with sharp flanges that is pressed ment sees little wet-weather riding, then an appropriate
into the top of a fork column. The star nut is part of the maintenance cycle would be 2,000–3,000 miles, in most
adjustment mechanism for a threadless headset. cases. If a lot of wet-condition riding is done, then the
Threaded headset: A headset that is used with a maintenance cycle might need to be as often as every
fork that has threads on the top end of the fork column 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether being ridden or not, so
for attachment of portions of the headset. another factor is how long the bike may be sitting before
Threadless headset: A headset that is used with a being used again. For example, if ridden 200 miles in the
fork that has no threads on the fork column. rain in the fall then put away four months for the winter,
Top cap: A plastic or metal cap that covers the top it would probably be a good idea to overhaul the headset
of the fork column. The top cap is part of the adjustment before putting the bike away for the winter. With a new
mechanism for a threadless headset. bike, there is no way to have an idea how well the bear-
Upper head-tube race: The pressed race that installs in ings were prepped, greased, and adjusted. In particular,
the upper end of the head tube. It may be a cone or a cup. it is common that new bikes come with ball retainers in
the headset. In the case of headsets, ball retainers lead
to premature failure and should always be replaced with
PREREQUISITES loose balls as soon as possible. Ideally, overhaul a new bike
Stem removal within the first 100 miles of use (not usually practical).
Stem removal is optional for headset adjustment, but With a new bike, poor factory greasing is common, and
required for headset overhaul or replacement. Although the initial break-in period puts a lot of microscopic metal
other writers have indicated that having the stem in place fragments into the grease, two additional good reasons to
affects the headset adjustment, scientific testing has shown overhaul the headset almost immediately.
that this is not the case. See the chapter HANDLEBARS, Some other factors affecting the maintenance cycle
STEMS, AND HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS (page 28-5). are whether there is grease injection and whether there
are seal mechanisms. Grease-injection systems do not eliminate
Brake removal/disconnection the need for overhaul. They only increase the acceptable time
Depending on the type and design of the brake, it between overhauls; furthermore, they are only as good as
will be necessary to remove the brake calipers from the the customer is consistent and thorough about pumping
fork, or remove the brake cable from the caliper, in order in new grease. Seal mechanisms (conventional headsets
to overhaul the headset. If the cable does not go through with rubber seals between the cones and cups) are not
a cable hanger that is part of the headset, or cannot be effective water-tight seals. Their effectiveness varies with the
released from the bracket without disconnecting the cable brand and model. At best, they can lengthen the accept-
from the brake, then caliper removal is probably the best able time between overhauls. With seal mechanisms or
choice. When the cable cannot be released from the head- grease-injection systems, the best policy is to initially
set or the fork (suspension forks) without disconnecting overhaul the headset on a normal length maintenance
the cable, leave the calipers in place and just disconnect cycle, and if the grease is found to be in good condition,
the cable. See RIM BRAKES (page 36-1). then extend the cycle the next time.
11 – 3
11 – HEADSETS
Symptoms indicating need for overhaul turn smoothly). The lack of smoothness could be caused
One of the most common conditions that leads cycling by dry grease, contaminated grease, or worn parts.
enthusiasts to believe that their headsets should be over- Symptoms indicating need for
hauled is when the races are “brinelled.” Brinelled races adjustment
are races that are dented. A headset with brinelled races The primary symptom experienced indicating that a
does not turn smoothly side to side, but moves in distinct headset needs adjustment is looseness in the bearings.
increments—almost like an indexed shift lever. When this This can be detected by grasping the end of the fork and
symptom exists it is possible that overhaul will eliminate it, jerking it in and out while feeling for a knocking sensa-
but in most cases the headset will need to be replaced. tion. One method for detecting a loose adjustment that
The only symptom indicating a need for a headset is recommended against is to lock up the front brake and
overhaul is that when performing an adjustment the feel for a knocking sensation while rocking the bike for-
looseness (free play) in the bearings cannot be eliminated ward and back. This method can lead to the impression
without the bearing becoming excessively tight (it does not that the headset is loose when it is not, because a loose
HEADSET TOOLS (table 11-1)

ADJUSTABLE-RACE SPANNERS/PLIERS
Campagnolo 712 Fits 36mm adjustable races, with chain-type sprocket tool
Campagnolo 712/1 Fits 32mm adjustable race w/ adjustable-cup pin wrench for Campy bottom bracket
Lifu 0607 Fits 32 & 36mm adjustable races
Park HCW-6 Fits 32mm adjustable races, with 15mm pedal wrench
Park HCW-7 Fits 30 & 32mm adjustable races
Park HCW-10 Fits 36mm adjustable races, with 15mm pedal wrench
Park HCW-12 Fits 32mm adjustable races, with single-peg bottom-bracket-lockring wrench
Pedro's 6462032 Fits 32mm adjustable races
Pedro's 6462033 Fits 32 & 36mm adjustable races
Pedro's 6462532 Fits 32mm adjustable races, plus 15mm pedal and 24mm socket
Pedro's 6462536 Fits 36mm adjustable races, plus 11mm and 12mm cog remover
Pedro's 6462136 Fits 36mm adjustable races, plus 15mm pedal and 24mm socket
Stein FS Fork stabilizing tool used to keep fork from turning while adjusting headset
VAR 78 Adjustable-race pliers that grasp the race body instead of wrench flats
Wrench Force 59531 Fits 32 & 36mm adjustable races
X-Axis Nut Grabber 30 Fits 30mm adjustable races, puts load on flats instead of corners
Zog‘s HWR 4036 Fits 36 & 40mm adjustable races
Zog‘s HWR 3230 Fits 30 & 32mm adjustable races
Zog‘s 2N1 3615 Fits 36mm adjustable races, plus 15mm pedal wrench
Zog's 2N1 3215 Fits 32mm adjustable races, plus 15mm pedal wrench
Zog‘s 2N1 3200 Fits 32mm adjustable races, plus single-peg bottom-bracket lockring spanner
Zog‘s 2N1 3600 Fits 36mm adjustable races, plus single-peg bottom-bracket lockring spanner
(Continued next page)
11 – 4
11 – HEADSETS
brake pivot will feel just like a loose headset. Inspect for
loose bearings and a loose locknut after 300–500 miles of
TOOL CHOICES
The design or brand of headset will determine the
use. The only way to check for a loose locknut is to put
tools needed. Table 11-1 (page 11-4 through 11-6) covers
a tool on the locknut and see if it is secure. Whenever
all tools for the job. The preferred choices are in bold. A
the locknut is loose, simply securing the locknut is not
tool is preferred because of a balance among ease of use,
adequate because the adjustment may have been lost while
quality, versatility, and economy. When more than one tool
the locknut was loose.
for one function is bold, it means that several tools are
Other reasons to adjust the headset are that it feels
required for different configurations of parts.
tight or feels brinelled (moves in increments). A tight
headset shows up when lifting the front of the bike by
the top tube and the wheel does not flop to one side under TIME AND DIFFICULTY
its own weight. The brinelled symptom, if caught early Overhauling the headset, including stem and brake
enough, can be eliminated through adjustment, but when caliper/cable removal, stem and brake reinstallation, and
it is not known whether there are loose bearings instead headset adjustment, is a 25–35 minute job of moderate
of retainers, it is best to overhaul the headset. difficulty. Adjusting the headset alone is an 8–12 minute
job of moderate difficulty.
HEADSET TOOLS (table 11-1 continued)

LOCKNUT WRENCHES/SPANNERS (all are 8-flat semi-box style – open at one flat only)
Park HW-2 Precise fitting 12" long 32 & 36mm locknut tool
Park TWB-32 Crow foot adapter to enable use of torque wrench on 32mm
Park TWB-366 Crow foot adapter to enable use of torque wrench on 36mm 6-flat nuts
Park TWB-368 Crow foot adapter to enable use of torque wrench on 36mm
Stein HW-36/8 Precise fitting 12" long 36mm locknut tool
Stein HW-40/8 Precise fitting 12" long 40mm locknut tool
Wrench Force 59539 Fits 30 & 32mm locknuts
Wrench Force 59540 Fits 36 & 40mm locknuts
X-Axis Semi-box 30mm Thin material harder on hand, more likely to mar aluminum-nut finish
LOCKRING WRENCHES/PLIERS
Hozan C205 Single-peg style wrench fits all headset lockrings, also fits bottom-bracket lockrings
Hozan C203 Lockring pliers fit all lockrings with even number of notches
HEAD-TUBE-RACE/MOUNT REMOVERS
Campagnolo 723 Fits 1" headsets
Park RT1 Fits all headset sizes
CROWN-RACE/MOUNT REMOVERS
Campagnolo 729 Driver type, 1" forks, ineffective on most fork/race combinations
Campagnolo 7170003 Driver type, 1-1/8" forks, ineffective on most fork/race combinations
Campagnolo 7170002 Driver type, 1-1/4" forks, ineffective on most fork/race combinations
Hozan C437 Driver type, forks up to 1-1/4", ineffective on most fork/race combinations
Hozan C-440 w/ C-441 Works on all forks up to 1-1/8" (C-441 needed w/ longer fork columns)
Park CRP-1 Works on all 1", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", & 1.5" fork columns
Shimano TL-HP20 Driver type, 1" forks, ineffective on most fork/race combinations
Stein CRR1 Works on all forks up to 1-1/8"
VAR 983 Driver type, forks up to 1-1/4", ineffective on most fork/race combinations
VAR 1001 Works on all forks up to 1-1/8"
11 – 5
11 – HEADSETS
COMPLICATIONS Chrome plating peeling off race surfaces of inex-

pensive new headsets
Headset will not stay tight Riding on extremely rough terrain (or abusive
There are numerous reasons that headsets loosen up. jumping), when the headset is designed more
The reasons include: for light weight than for durability
Poorly pressed races seating fully after adjust- Use of keyed washers between adjustable race and
ment locknut/lockring
Inadequate torque on locknuts/lockrings
HEADSET TOOLS (table 11-1, continued)

HEAD-TUBE RACE/MOUNT PRESSES
Chris King THS 001B Adapts Bicycle Research reamer facer to press for Chris King 1" & 1-1/8" headsets
Chris King THS 001C Adapts Campagnolo reamer facer to press for Chris King 1" & 1-1/8" headsets
Chris King THS 001H Adapts Hozan C438 to press for Chris King 1" & 1-1/8" headsets
Chris King THS 001P Adapts Park HHP-1 to press for Chris King 1" & 1-1/8" headsets
Chris King THS 001V Adapts VAR 34 facer to press for Chris King 1" & 1-1/8" headsets
EVT HCP Works on all 1" & 1-1/8" standard and Chris King headsets
Hozan C438 Fits all sizes of headsets, uses stepped inserts
Park HHP-1 Fits all sizes of headsets, uses stepped inserts, also fits one-piece bottom-bracket cups
United Bicycle TRC 1–1/8" insert for Hozan C438, better support and accommodate longer head tubes
VAR 34 Fits all sizes of headsets, uses stepped inserts
CROWN-RACE/MOUNT INSTALLERS
Bicycle Research SH-1 Simple slide-hammer for 1" forks
Bicycle Research SH-2 Simple slide-hammer for 1-1/8" forks
Bicycle Research SH-3 Simple slide-hammer for 1-1/4" forks
Campagnolo 722 Fits 1" forks, light-weight slide hammer (but can be hammered)
EVT CRP Slide-hammer design for 1" & 1–1/8" forks, includes sizes of adapters
Hozan C435 Fits all sizes of forks when used in conjunction with United Bicycle Tool HP50, HP51, and
HP52, heavy slide hammer
Hozan C-445 w/ C-446 Thread-action press, fits 1" & 1-1/8" forks
Park CRS-1 Use as a slide hammer, or hit with ballpeen; includes three shapes of adapters for 1" headset
fork crowns, and three shapes of adapters for 1–1/8" headsets
Park 838 Adapter for using Park CRS-1 on some 1" composite-construction forks
Shimano TL-HP50 Adapter for slide hammers that clears interference w/ bottom of fork column on 1" forks
Shimano TL-HP51 Adapter for slide hammers that clears interference w/ bottom of fork column on 1–1/8" forks
Shimano TL-HP52 Adapter for slide hammers that clears interference w/ bottom of fork column on 1–1/4" forks
United Bicycle CRS Fits 1" forks, light-weight slide hammer, compatible w/ all fork columns
United Bicycle CRS2 Fits 1–1/8" forks, light-weight slide hammer, compatible with all fork columns
United Bicycle CRS3 Fits 1–1/4" forks, light-weight slide hammer, compatible with all fork columns
VAR 146/2 Fits 1" forks, heavy slide hammer
VAR 973 Fits 1–1/8" forks, heavy slide hammer
VAR 972 Fits 1–1/4" forks, heavy slide hammer
THREADLESS-HEADSET TOOLS
Hozan C-460 Installs star nut for in 1" & 1–1/8" fork columns, uses guide system for alignment
Park TNS-1 Installs star nut for in 1" & 1–1/8" fork columns (no guide system)
Park TNS-2 Installs star nut for in 1–1/4" fork columns (no guide system)
Park TNS-3 Installs star nut for in freestyle headset w/ hollow top-cap bolt (no guide system)
Stein SF-1 Faces bottom of stem to improve adjustable-race alignment
Wheels Mfg. Startool Installs star nut for in 1" & 1–1/8" fork columns, uses guide system for alignment
Wheels Mfg. Driver-2 Adapts Wheels Mfg. Startool to work with BMX/Freestyle w/ hollow top-cap bolt
11 – 6
11 – HEADSETS
Loose head-tube race or mount Head-tube race/mount will not seat fully
Loose races in the head tube can be due to poor ini- There are several reasons that a head-tube race might
tial tolerance or due to damage to the head tube. If the not seat fully when being pressed in. If using an inferior
head tube has been damaged, there will often be a visible pressing tool, the races may cock to the side and jam.
flare at the bottom in front or back (see figure 8.29, page If installing aluminum body races into a steel head
8-16). Loose races due to poor tolerances can be solved tube, a sharp edge on the inner perimeter of the head-tube
by finding a better-fitting headset (if available) or by the face may create shavings or burrs that get trapped between
use of Loctite RC680. the head-tube face and the race. Remove the race, then
clean any burrs or shavings off the race with a file. File
Loose crown race or mount or deburr the inner perimeter of the head-tube face with
Loose fork-crown races are usually due to poor
a round file or deburring tool.
manufacturing tolerances in the race or on the fork-
Some head-tube-race pressing tools have multiple
column base. The solutions include finding a headset
slots for the keeper plate of the tool to engage and a
with a more suitable fork-crown-race I.D., using Loctite
limited range of thread for the handle. Sometimes it is
RC680, or expanding the fork-column base with a Stein
necessary to thread the tool shaft out of the tool head
KT knurling tool.
more and move the keeper plate up one slot on the tool
Removal tool will not engage shaft to ensure a complete pressing.
head-tube race or mount
The designs of certain head tubes and certain head-
tube-race-removal tools are not compatible. When this is
Cup-press-tool handle
the case, the removal tool passes right back through the
head-tube race when removal is attempted. The solution Tool shaft threaded to limit
is to put the tool in place and install an internal snap
ring through the race being removed so that it expands
and ends up trapped between the race and the end of
the removal tool. The tool drives against the snap ring,
which has a smaller I.D. than the race, so that the tool Cup-press-tool insert
cannot pass through.
The correct sizes of internal snap rings to use are Upper head-tube race
as follows: 1–1/16" for 1" headsets, 1–1/8" for 1–1/8" Incomplete installation
headsets, and 1–1/4" for 1–1/4" headsets.
These may be a little sloppy after being installed Head tube
past the race, but they are the largest sizes that will pass
through the respective race sizes and will work despite
the sloppiness.
Incomplete installation
The snap ring solution may not work if the head-tube
race is unusually tight in the head tube. Lower head-tube race
Fork will not pull through head-tube Cup-press-tool insert
races/mounts or crown race/mount will Press-tool-insert keeper plate

not clear top of fork column Slot in cup-press-tool shaft
The fork may stick when pulling it through the head-
tube races, or the fork-crown race may stick before it comes
off the end of the fork column. Both of these symptoms
occur when the fork column (below the threads) is bulged 11.2 If the keeper plate is engaged in the wrong slot,
as a result of an over-tightened stem-binder bolt. then the tool shaft may thread to its limit before press-
If this problem does occur, there is no alternative ing is complete.
except to use whatever force is necessary to get the fork
clear of the race, and then dispose of the fork.
11 – 7
11 – HEADSETS
A beveled or sloped head-tube face or beveled race
body may make a gap appear between the outer perimeter
of the head-tube face and the race when, in fact, there is
full contact at the inner perimeter. Gap
Gap
11.4 A bevel at the edge of the crown-race seat may

make it appear as though the race is not seated fully
when the race is seated fully.
If the race is undersized to the fork-column base, or

gets cocked during installation, burrs may peel off the sur-
face of the fork-column base. In this case, remove the race,
11.3 The curve of the cup may make it appear as clean off the burrs, check the fit, and if fit is good attempt
though the race is not fully seated, when it is. another installation (watching alignment carefully).
Fork-crown race/mount cracks
Slide hammer jams before pressing when being installed
crown race/mount fully Certain small-profile steel races are very intolerant
Some slide hammers are a very tight fit on the fork of fit errors. Check fit carefully, especially when the fork-
column, usually due to a build-up of paint or chrome crown race is very small. Larger races will simply jam
on the fork column. An expansion reamer can be used before installing completely, instead of cracking, when
to easily modify the tool to solve this problem (see fit tolerances are poor.
chapter 7, page 7-3).
The Hozan C-435 I.D. is a very close fit to the fork- Head-tube races make creaking noises
column base. If the fork-column base is taller than the Aluminum head-tube races may creak in an aluminum
fork-crown race being installed, then the tool will jam head tube even when properly fit. Use Loctite 242 on
on the fork-column base before pressing the fork-crown mating surfaces to solve this problem.
race fully. Using the recommended Park CRS-1 or Hozan
C-445 solves the problem.
Some forks, particularly some suspension forks, have
HEADSET FIT
Until 2001, virtually all headsets were of one common
a taper just above the fork-column base that many slide
design, in which the bearings were positioned above and
hammers will not clear. Using the recommended Park
below the head tube and with the diameter of the bearing
CRS-1 or Hozan C-445 solves the problem.
assemblies noticeably wider than the head tube. Although
Some carbon-fiber and aluminum forks have an extra-
headsets of this design have several uniform features,
fat fork column. Hozan, VAR, and Campagnolo tools all
there are many historical and current fit standards for
jam in the first few inches before pressing ever begins.
this design (see table 11-2, page 11-10). Starting in 2001,
Using the recommended Park CRS-1 or Hozan C-445
several alternate designs were introduced, all of which have
solves the problem.
the common feature of partially concealing the headset,
Fork-crown race/mount will not seat fully either by inserting the headset inside the head tube, or by
See the above problem regarding slide hammer jam- making it a virtually seamless extension of the head tube.
ming before race installs fully. If none of these are the cause These “concealed” headset designs introduced several new
of the problem, it may be one of the following items. fit standards (see table 11-3, page 11-10). In this manual,
A bevel or slope to the crown-race seat or the race the headsets that are not concealed or partially concealed
body may make a gap appear between the outer perimeter are called “traditional” headsets, and the new varieties that
of the crown-race seat and the race when, in fact, there is take various approaches to make the headset less visible
full contact at the inner perimeter. are called “concealed” headsets.
11 – 8
11 – HEADSETS
Traditional headsets panies make compatible headsets. For an illustration, see

Traditional headset parts press into the head tube, the lower half of figure 11.23c (page 11-23).
press onto the fork, and the fork may be threaded or Integrated System®: Bearing mounts of a unique
threadless. There are several different fit standards listed diameter are milled into the head tube to receive slip-fit
in table 11-2 (page 11-10). cartridge bearings. The design relies on angular contact
When replacing a threadless headset, start by checking between the mounts and the bearing system for stabiliz-
the fork-column diameter. For the 1" varieties, the fork- ing the bearings. The design utilizes different head-tube
column-base and head-tube dimensions may be either the dimensions for 1" and 1–1/8" forks. This system is
“Campy” standard or the JIS standard, and only removal trademarked by Cane Creek, but other companies make
of the pressed pieces will reveal which standard is being compatible headsets. For an illustration, see the lower
used. Head tubes and forks that fit the JIS standard can half of figure 11.23c (page 11-23).
be milled to convert them to the “Campy” standard. The Columbus®: Bearing mounts of a unique diameter are
1–1/8", 1–1/4", and 1.5" sizes each utilize one set of pressed into the head tube, but the portions of the mounts
fork-column-base and head-tube dimensions, so identify- that hold the bearings remain outside the head tube. The
ing the fork-column diameter is all that is needed to select outside diameter of the mounts (45mm) is an exact match
the correct headset. to the head-tube diameter, and the mounts may be painted
When replacing a threaded headset, match the thread with the same finish as the head tube in order to enhance
standard and the press-fit dimensions (head-tube-race O.D. the concealment. The mounts receive slip-fit cartridge
and fork-crown-race I.D.). Except in the case of the JIS bearings. The design relies on angular contact between the
and “Campy” standards, a quick way to identify what size mounts and the bearing system for stabilizing the bearings.
headset is in the bike is by checking the stem’s O.D. If the The design utilizes the same head-tube dimensions for 1"
bike has JIS standard press-fit dimensions, or a mix of JIS and 1–1/8" forks but varies the inside diameter of the
and “Campy” standards, use reaming tools to convert the components to accommodate the two fork sizes. Other
frame and fork to the “Campy” standard (30.0mm head companies make compatible headsets.
tube and 26.5mm fork-crown base), which is the one in Zero Stack®: Bearing mounts of a unique diameter
which most replacement headsets are available. are pressed into the head tube, but the mounts have lips
Some types of traditional threaded headsets are that remain outside the ends of the head tube. The mounts
unique to one manufacturer. Old inexpensive English receive slip-fit cartridge bearings, although there are ver-
Raleighs (1" × 26tpi), Murrays, and Huffys have unique sions of this system (found as original equipment) that are
headsets, as well as some Austrian bikes and other bikes a simple cup-and-cone design. The design relies on angular
from European countries that would not be considered contact between the mounts and the bearing system for
part of the cycling industry mainstream anymore. stabilizing the bearings. The design utilizes different head-
tube dimensions for 1" and 1–1/8" forks. This system is
Concealed headsets trademarked by Cane Creek, but other companies make
Concealed headsets vary in design and have several compatible headsets.
different fit standards. The names for these variations are Perdido®: Bearing mounts of a unique diameter are
generally trademarked names. Consequently, there are no pressed into the head tube, but the mounts have lips that
generic terms that are commonly understood to refer to remain outside the ends of the head tube. The mounts
specific variations of concealed-headset design. Terms contain pressed-in cartridge bearings. The design is only
that are commonly used, such as “integrated,” “semi- made for 1–1/8" forks. This system is trademarked by
integrated,” “low stack,” “zero stack,” and “hidden” are Chris King, but the standard is open and other companies
not always used to mean the same thing. Following is a are entitled to make compatible headsets.
summary of the five designs of concealed headsets.
Hiddenset®: Bearing mounts of a unique diameter Stack height
are milled into the head tube to receive slip-fit full- Another important aspect of fit is the “stack height”
cartridge bearings, or a cup-and-cone bearing assembly. of the headset, which relates to the difference in the length
The design relies on angular contact between the mounts of the fork column and the head tube. In this area there are
and the bearing system for stabilizing the bearings. The no standards, and the worksheets provided give a formula
design utilizes the same head-tube dimensions for 1" for calculating the maximum acceptable stack height for
and 1–1/8" forks, but varies the inside diameter of the a replacement headset. Use table 11-4 at the end of the
components to accommodate the two fork sizes. This chapter (pages 11-27 through 11-32) to help find a headset
system is trademarked by Campagnolo, but other com- that is of a suitable stack height to fit the bike.
11 – 9
11 – HEADSETS
FIT FACTORS FOR TRADITIONAL THREADED & THREADLESS HEADSETS (table 11-2)
Headset type “Campy” JIS (Asian) American French 1–1/8" 1–1/4" 1.5"
Fork-column O.D. (mm) 25.4mm 25.4mm 25.4mm 25.0mm 28.6mm 31.6mm 38.1mm
Typical occurrences Most bicycles from Most Asian Quality BMX 1 Older French Most mountain Fisher 3, limited OnePointFive
Italy and US facto- bicycles 2 that and old bicycles, discon- bikes with over- other MTBs, standard –
ries1, not US-brand are not 1–1/8" Schwinns tinued in early size headsets, some tandems Some freeride and
imports, most 1980s some tandems, downhill MTBs
quality replace- many BMX/ with single-crown
ment headsets Freestyle bikes forks
Quill-stem O.D. 4 22.15–22.25mm 22.15–22.25mm 21.05–21.15mm 21.95–22.05mm 25.35–25.45mm 28.50–28.60mm none
Pitch 5
24tpi 24tpi 24tpi 1mm 26tpi 26tpi none
Fork-thread O.D. 5 25.1–25.3mm 25.1–25.3mm 25.1–25.3mm 24.7–24.9mm 28.3–28.5mm 31.5–31.7mm none
Thread name 5
1" × 24tpi 6
1" × 24tpi 1" × 24tpi 25mm × 1mm 1–1/8" × 26tpi 1–1/4" × 26tpi none
Frame-race/mount O.D. 30.15–30.30mm 29.95–30.10mm 32.65–32.80mm 29.95–30.10mm 34.00–34.10mm 37.00–37.10mm 49.82–49.86mm
Frame I.D. 29.95–30.05mm 29.75–29.85mm 32.45–32.55mm 29.75–29.85mm 33.75–33.85mm 36.75–36.85mm 49.57–49.61mm
Fork-race/mount I.D. 26.30–26.40mm 26.90–27.00mm 26.30–26.40mm Variable 7 29.90–30.00mm 32.90–33.00mm 39.70–39.74mm
Fork-column-base O.D. 26.45–26.55mm 27.05–27.15mm 26.45–26.55mm Variable 73 30.05–30.15mm 33.05–33.15mm 39.85–39.79mm
1
Lower-quality adult bikes and BMX bikes sold in department stores often have headset dimensions that are unique to the specific manufacturer of the bike.
This is most notably true with Huffy, Roadmaster, and Murray brand bikes.
2
Occasional Asian bicycles used mixed standards for the head-tube-race O.D. (Campy standard) and fork crown race I.D. (JIS standard).
3
Fisher MTBs ceased utilizing the 1–1/4" oversize headset in approximately 1994.
4
Threadless varieties clamp to outside of fork column, in which case stem I.D. is equal to fork column O.D.
5
Ignore thread pitch, O.D., and thread name for threadless varieties.
6
BSC and ISO thread name is 1" × 24tpi. Italian thread name is 25.4mm × 24tpi and is fully interchangeable, but not exactly the same, resulting in a slightly
tight feel in the threads when mixing types.
7
Peugeot uses a unique fork-crown-race I.D. of 26.5mm. Some French bikes adhere to the Campy standard and some to the JIS standard.
FIT FACTORS FOR CONCEALED HEADSETS (table 11-3)

Headset type Campagnolo Cane Creek External mounts Recessed races/mounts Perdido ®
(Hiddenset ®) (Integrated System ®) (Columbus style) (Zero Stack ®) (Chris King)
Configuration Integrated mounts Integrated mounts Pressed mounts Pressed mounts or races Pressed assembly
Fork-diameter name 1" 1–1/8" 1" 1–1/8" 1" 1–1/8" 1" 1–1/8" 1–1/8"
Fork diameter (mm) 1
25.4mm 28.6mm 25.4mm 28.6mm 25.4mm 28.6mm 25.4mm 28.6mm 28.6mm
Head-tube I.D. 2 41.8mm 38.0mm 41.0mm 39.9mm 41.4mm 44.0mm 44.4mm
Head-tube-mount O.D. 3
not applicable not applicable not applicable 40.0mm 41.5mm 44.1mm 44.5mm
Cartridge-bearing O.D. 2 41.8mm 38.0mm 41.0mm 41.5mm 38.0mm 41.0mm not applicable
Outer seat angle 4 45º 45º 36º 45º not applicable
Center seat angle 5 45º 36º or 45º 36º 36º or 45º not applicable
Fork-crown-base O.D. 1
26.5mm 30.1mm 26.5mm 30.1mm 26.5mm 30.1mm 26.5mm or 30.1mm 30.1mm
27.1mm
Crown-mount I.D. 6 26.4mm 30.0mm 26.4mm 30.0mm 26.4mm 30.0mm 26.4mm or 30.0mm 30.0mm
27.0mm
1
Diameters are nominal for identification purposes, variations of .1mm may be encountered.
2
Diameters are nominal. When pressing in mounts, normal headset press-fit tolerances apply. Angular contact bearings normally have diameter slop.
3
Mount outside diameters are nominal. When pressing in mounts and races, normal headset press-fit tolerances apply.
4
Angle applies to interface of bearing to head-tube seat or to pressed-in mount in head tube.
5
Angle applies to interface of bearing to fork-crown mount or to compression ring. There is anecdotal evidence that mixing angles may be acceptable.
6
Diameters are nominal. When pressing mounts onto forks, normal headset press-fit tolerances apply. Some crown mounts are compression (split) style, so
press-fit tolerances do not apply.
11 – 10
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET SERVICE 5. [ ] Pull stem out of fork and use something to

tie bars to top tube, so that weight of bars
NOTE: If simply adjusting the headset, proceed does not hang against brake and derailleur
directly to ADJUSTMENT. cables and so that cables are not kinked.
6. [ ] Inspect for poorly seated cups and for rel-
STEM AND FORK REMOVAL ative depth of cones in cups.
Stems are attached to forks by one of two methods.

Turn counterclockwise
The stem is either inserted into the fork column, or it is
clamped to the outside of the fork column. This differ-
ence is easily detected by observation.
The method of stem attachment determines which
of two fundamental headset systems is in use. If the stem
inserts into the fork, the headset system is the threaded type. Hold stationary
If the stem clamps to the outside of the fork column, then
the headset is the threadless type.
Remove brake calipers from the fork, or remove cable
from brake calipers, whichever seems easier to do (keep in
mind putting everything back together). If the cable goes
through a cable hanger in the headset, or on a fork that has Hold wheel
no slot to enable the cable to be released, it will be necessary between knees
to remove the cable from the brake. If the front brake is
hydraulic, removing the caliper is the best approach.
Threaded type
1. [ ] Remove brake caliper(s) from fork, or
remove cable from brake calipers.
2. [ ] Mark stem height with felt marker or piece
of tape.
3. [ ] Loosen stem bolt (the one that goes down
shaft of stem) about four full turns.
4. [ ] If stem-bolt head has come up out of stem,
tap it down forcefully with plastic hammer
or ballpeen hammer and block of wood to
protect bolt head.
Poor seating
11.6 Removing the locknut.
There are three types of locking mechanisms for

threaded headsets. Either a locknut is secured against
the adjustable race (simple locknut type) or a locknut is
secured against the adjustable race and the locknut is fur-
ther secured by a clamp bolt or set screw (bound locknut
type), or there is no locknut and the adjustable race is
bound to the fork column by means of a clamping bolt
or set screw (bound race type). The simple locknut type
is easily identified by the presence of two fittings with
wrench flats and the absence of any small hex-key fittings
Relative cone/cup
in the locknut or adjustable race. The bound-locknut type
position should obviously have a locknut and an adjustable race,
and a small hex-key fitting should be apparent on the
11.5 Look for poorly seated race and depth of cone locknut. The bound race type has only one piece visible
insertion before disassembly. above the upper pressed race. For this type, there may be
11 – 11
11 – HEADSETS
an easily visible hex-key socket in the adjustable race, or it The sequence of washers and brackets is important.
may be hidden by a plastic or rubber sleeve. Sometimes there is a special washer that must go against
7. [ ] Simple-locknut type only: Use headset the adjustable race, and often this special washer must
wrench to hold adjustable race stationary face a certain way. If there is a cable hanger bracket,
while using locknut wrench to turn locknut changing its position in the sequence could change the
(counterclockwise) to break it loose and brake adjustment (which could be dangerous if not
remove it. NOTE: If possible, hold wheel
detected). In some cases, there might be a second lock-
between legs while doing this to make it
easier to control. nut or lockring between the top nut and the adjustable
Bound-locknut type only: Find and loosen race. If there is a lockring, a lockring wrench is needed
hex-key fitting in locknut, then use headset to break it loose. To keep track of the sequence and
wrench to hold adjustable race stationary orientation of the washers, brackets, and any additional
while using locknut wrench to turn locknut lockring, either write descriptive notes, draw an exploded
(counterclockwise) to break it loose and diagram, or bundle them together with something like a
remove it. NOTE: If possible, hold wheel plastic bag tie until ready to reinstall them.
between legs while doing this to make it 10. [ ] Lift any washers and brackets off fork and
easier to control. note their order and orientations.
Bound-race type only: Locate hex fitting for 11. [ ] Remove lockring (if any).
binder, then loosen binder. 12. [ ] Remove additional washers (if any).
8. [ ] Remove front wheel. Be prepared for loose ball bearings to drop out in this
In the next step, measure the amount of fork thread next step. They should not be reused, and the correct quan-
exposed above the remaining headset pieces. This number tity is something that will be determined by trial and error,
is useful for many things. If this number increases when so don’t be too concerned about keeping track of every last
the headset is assembled, it indicates that pieces were left ball. Keep track of at least one for size reference.
out or the use of ball bearings that are too small. If this 13. [ ] Pull down on fork while turning adjustable
number becomes smaller, it indicates use of balls that are race (counterclockwise) until fork comes out
too large or that the ball bearings are out of place. If this bottom of head tube. Adjustable race will
number is less than 4.5mm to start with, it indicates that remain perched on top of head tube. Bear-
the locknut has poor engagement and washers or spacers ings and seals may remain with fork, also.
should be removed from the headset until the exposed Threadless type
thread measures 4.5mm or more. 1. [ ] Remove brake caliper(s) from fork, or
remove cable from brake calipers.
Minimum 4.5mm Caliper 2. [ ] Remove wheel.
Top cap
Washer(s)
Adjusting bolt
Stem
Star nut
Spacer
11.7a Measure the exposed thread available for the Compression ring
locknut.
Adjustable race
9. [ ] Locknut types only: Use depth gauge on end

of caliper to measure exposed thread above Upper head-
tube race
washers/brackets and record number here:
________mm
Fork column
Underneath the locknut there may be one or several 11.7b Upper stack of a typical threadless headset.
washers and brackets (for reflectors or for the brake cable).
3. [ ] Unthread bolt in cap on top of stem, then
Sometimes a washer will be difficult to lift off. Usually this
remove bolt and cap.
means that it has rotated and jammed its key into the threads. 4. [ ] Use depth gauge on caliper to measure dis-
In this case, grasp the washer with large pliers (Hozan C203 tance from top of stem (or spacers) to top of
if you have one) and rotate it back until its key lines up with fork column: _________mm
the slot in the threads. It should lift off easily then.
11 – 12
11 – HEADSETS
5. [ ] Noting number and sequences, remove 5. [ ] Ball bearings: Remove balls (usually in a
spacers, if any, from above stem. retainer) from bottom part of headset.
6. [ ] Loosen binder bolts on any brackets or Needle bearings: Remove loose conical races
clamps that are between stem and headset. (if any) and needle-bearing retainer from bot-
7. [ ] Retain or hold fork so it cannot fall when tom part of headset.
stem is removed. Cartridge bearings: Remove cartridge bearing
8. [ ] Loosen stem-binder bolt(s), pull stem off from bottom part of headset. NOTE: If car-
top of fork, then use something to tie bars tridge will not lift out with fingers, it is press
to top tube so that weight of bars does not fit into mount and does not get removed!
hang against brake and derailleur cables and 6. [ ] Note if lower cartridge or ball-bearing diam-
so that cables are not kinked. eter is larger than or same as upper cartridge
9. [ ] Noting number and sequences, slide any or ball-bearing diameter (circle one choice).
washers, brackets, or covers off top of fork.
10. [ ] Use mallet to tap fork down, then push fork
up to access and remove compression ring. CLEANING
11. [ ] Pull down on fork to remove it from head Headset with non-cartridge bearings can be fully
tube. One or more loose pieces should serviced, which means that all parts can be taken apart,
remain perched on top of head tube. Bear- individually cleaned, and at least the ball bearings can be
ings and seals may remain with fork, also. replaced. Cartridge bearings may also be serviceable.
The design of a cartridge bearing determines to what
BEARING REMOVAL degree it can be serviced. For purposes of this chapter,
cartridge-bearing designs are divided into three types: split-
At this point, a variety of bearing systems might be
encountered. These include loose or caged ball bearings, ring style, shielded style, and dust-cap style. The split-ring-
needle bearings, loosely fit cartridge bearings, or press-fit style bearing, which is usually permanently installed in the
cartridge bearings. Any of these bearing systems may have head-tube mount, has a diagonally split, flat-metal ring
covers or seals that are separate from the bearings. that retains a soft rubber seal cover. The shielded style
In the next steps, look for seal mechanisms (see figure has conventional rubber-covered cartridge-bearing seals
11.1, page 11-1) and remove them. They will be plastic pressed into each face of the cartridge bearing. The dust-
or rubber rings between the pairs of races at the top and cap style consists of separate cone and cup races that are
bottom of the head tube. The seal mechanisms can be held together in a cartridge-like assembly by means of a
different at the top and bottom, and which way each one pressed-in metal dust cap, which traps the cone in place.
faces is critical as well. If seal mechanisms are switched, The following cleaning steps are only needed if the
or the way they face is reversed, then adjusting the headset headset may be reused.
will become impossible. Non-cartridge bearings
1. [ ] Non-cartridge only: Lift adjustable race off 1. [ ] Clean head-tube races with solvent.
top of head tube. 2. [ ] Clean adjustable race with solvent.
2. [ ] Look for seal in top part of headset and 3. [ ] Clean fork column with solvent.
remove it (if any). Bundle it with adjustable 4. [ ] Clean bearing retainers with solvent only if
race or compression ring now so it does not re-using them. NOTE: Re-using ball-bearing
get confused with lower seal mechanism. retainers not recommended!
Note its orientation here: ________________
3. [ ] Ball bearings: Remove balls (usually in a Split-ring-style cartridge bearings
retainer) from top part of headset. 1. [ ] Insert a thin knife tip into the diagonal split,
Needle bearings: Remove loose conical races then lever one end of the ring inward (to
(if any) and needle-bearing retainer from top center), then upward (away from seal).
part of headset. 2. [ ] Work split ring fully out, then use seal pick
Cartridge bearings: Remove cartridge bearing to remove soft rubber cover.
from top part of headset. NOTE: If cartridge 3. [ ] Use solvent and a brush to clean bearings
will not lift out with fingers, it is press fit (bearings remain in cartridge).
into mount, and does not get removed! 4. [ ] Use compressed air to dry out bearings.
4. [ ] Look on fork crown, or up inside lower end 5. [ ] Use fingers to work grease in between bear-
of head tube, for seals (if any) and remove ings.
them. Note their orientation here: _________ 6. [ ] Place rubber cover over bearings.
_______________________________ 7. [ ] Insert one end of split ring into place, then
carefully work rest of ring into groove.
11 – 13
11 – HEADSETS
Shielded-style cartridge bearings different headsets in one stack. In any case, if any parts
1. [ ] Use seal pick to prod inner and outer perim- are heavily worn, it is a good idea to replace them all. The
eter of rubber ring to find soft edge, then dents or pits may show up clearly to the naked eye, but
insert seal pick under soft edge to carefully the ultimate test to determine whether there are pits is to
lift out seal. Repeat for other seals. trace the wear path the bearings have left on the cup or
2. [ ] Use solvent and a brush to clean bearings the cone with the tip of a ball point pen. If the tip of the
(bearings remain in cartridge), bearing mounts, pen catches anywhere, it is a pit or dent.
fork column, and all other loose pieces. Severely over-tightened headsets or badly abused
3. [ ] Use compressed air to dry out bearings.
headsets may fail by the lower cup cracking. The cracks
4. [ ] Use fingers to work grease into bearings.
5. [ ] Use fingers to carefully press seals back into
will show up on the top of the lower cup, usually in a
faces of cartridges. radial pattern. Another problem found with headsets is
that the pressed parts may be loose. This can be due to
Dust-cap-style cartridge bearings poor original tolerances or by an enlargement of the head
1. [ ] Ease thin-tipped knife or similar tool between tube as a result of abusive riding.
inside edge of dustcap and cone, then use
Thread damage may also occur on the fork. This will
leverage to lift dustcap slightly. Slowly work
all around dust cap until it fully separates.
primarily be where a lock washer has been forced to rotate.
Alternate method: Hold cartridge on index Occasionally the threads may be stripped at the engage-
fingers (dustcap-face down), then press on ment with the locknut or the adjustable race.
cone with thumbs until dust cap pops out. Do not inspect the ball bearings for wear. Significant
2. [ ] Separate cone, ball retainer, and cup. wear on bearings is not necessarily detectable with the naked
3. [ ] If reusing retainer, pop balls out of retainer. eye or by feel. It is recommended to always replace the bear-
NOTE: Plastic retainer may be part of seal. ings if going to the trouble to overhaul the headset.
4. [ ] Clean all cartridge-bearing parts, bearing 1. [ ] Inspect cup races and cone races for dents
mounts, fork column, and other loose pieces from brinelling or galling (pits).
with brush and solvent. 2. [ ] Inspect lower cup for cracking.
3. [ ] Inspect pressed races in head tube and on
INSPECTION fork crown for looseness by trying to jiggle

or twist them. They should be immobile.
4. [ ] Inspect steel races pressed into aluminum
cups for looseness.
5. [ ] Inspect for damaged fork-column threads or
bent fork column (evidence is a bow along
the length of the column, any bulges in the
column, and any groove worn into the col-
umn, particularly about 1"–2" above base).
6. [ ] Inspect fork column carefully for cracks. Pay
particular attention to area where thread-
less stem has been clamped to column and
threaded area on threaded columns.
Threaded headsets often have keyed washers between
11.8 Dents in these races are called brinelling and are the locknut or lockring and the adjustable race. The key
cause to replace the headset. Note that the positions of on the washer is not only unnecessary and likely to dam-
the dents correspond to the spacing between the ball age fork threads, it may even interfere with securing the
bearings created by the retainer.
position of the adjustable race. This type of interference
When headsets wear out, the surfaces on which the happens when the adjustable race is held stationary and the
balls roll develop dents (smooth craters in the metal) called locknut is torqued down to the adjustable race. The keyed
brinelling. Once this occurs, a proper adjustment cannot washer tends to rotate and jam its key into the fork threads.
be made. In some cases there will be galling (rough craters When this happens the washer is no longer capable of
in the metal where the balls roll). The design of the head- transferring force down to the adjustable race since it is
set is such that the lower pair of races tends to wear out stuck against the fork threads. The end result is a locknut
first. Although it is sometimes possible to get individual that is tight but an adjustable race that is not.
replacement parts; more often than not, only complete This could be prevented by turning the adjustable
headsets are available. It is not advisable to mix parts from race up in addition to turning the locknut/lockwasher
11 – 14
11 – HEADSETS
down, but this turns the adjustment process into a trial- 1. [ ] Insert small end of head-race remover
and-error fiasco. through race or mount and out other end of
head tube, then pull on small end until flared
end just pulls through first race/mount.
Damage from washer key NOTE: If tool is difficult to pull through, tap
on flared end with plastic mallet.
2. [ ] Tap on small end of tool with metal hammer
to drive out race/mount (many light taps,
not big hits).
3. [ ] Repeat for other end of head tube.
Removal of pressed races and mounts
from fork crown
Fork crown races and fork crown mounts are usually
a press fit onto the fork-column base and require special
tools and techniques for removal. However, some mounts
for cartridge-bearing systems and for needle-bearing sys-
tems are a compression-ring design instead of being a
press fit. If this is the case, the mount is conical in shape
11.9 Fork threads damaged from rotated lock washer. and has a vertical split. Under operating loads, this piece
7. [ ] Inspect keys on inside of lock washers and binds securely to the fork column, but once the headset
brackets, and replace washers or brackets if is disassembled, it should be possible to remove it with
keys are damaged. (It is optional and recom- fingers or by gently prying it up with a thin screwdriver.
mended to replace keyed washers or file out A press-fit fork-crown race or mount can be very
keys on washers.) awkward to remove. There are several styles of tools and
techniques. The tools designed for the job fall into two
categories: drivers or pulling tools.
REMOVING RACES OR MOUNTS The traditional driver looks like an upside-down U or
NOTE: If not replacing or installing a headset, skip
a horseshoe. The tool straddles the fork crown from below
ahead to ASSEMBLY.
and the ends of the tool catch on any of the fork-crown
Removal of pressed races and mounts race or mount that extends beyond the profile of the fork
in head tube crown (see figure 11.11, page 11-16). Fat fork crowns or
Impact here deep-profile fork crowns both interfere with this type of
tool, and it is virtually certain that this tool will be of no
use on a typical suspension fork. In addition, many sizes
and varieties of this tool are required to fit different sizes
and brands of races. Because of these limitations and the
Head-tube-race remover
simplicity of using this type of tool, the procedure for use
of this type of tool is not included here.
Pullers work in far more situations than drivers and
usually are more versatile in fit to different sizes of races
or mounts. There are several choices for pullers, including
Head tube the Hozan C-440, the Park CRP-1, the Stein CRR1, and
the VAR 1001.
The Hozan C-440 and Var 1001 are the same design
of tool. The long cylindrical section of the tool is best
held in a bike-stand clamp to perform a race/mount
removal. An adjustable collet has a sharp lip that engages
the underside of the race or mount when the collet collar
Lower head-tube race is tightened. A 40mm headset wrench is used to tighten
the collar more so that the wedging action of the collet
11.10 Removing the lower head-tube race. lips lifts the race or mount partially off the crown before
the removal process is even started. This insures the tool
11 – 15
11 – HEADSETS
will not lose its grip on the race or mount. Omitting this
wedging step can lead to removal failure or tool damage.
Fork blade
When the T-handle is turned, it pushes the fork column
out of the tool, which pulls the crown race/mount off. Fork crown
(cross-section)
This tool works on all crown races and mounts on fork
columns up to 1.25" diameter. Fork-crown race
The Park CRP-1 utilizes two V-shaped wedges to (cross-section)
grip the underside of the crown race/mount instead of
a collet. These sharp-edged wedges are moved inward Stein CRR1
adjustable jaw
by rotating two T-handle bolts. Like the Hozan or Var
collet, these wedges can separate the race or mount from
1
the fork crown by wedging action before the pulling pro-
cess is begun. This insures the tool will not lose its grip Stein CRR1
tool head
on the race or mount. Omitting this wedging step can
lead to removal failure or tool damage. When the main Fork column
(cross-section)
T-handle is turned, it pushes the fork column out of the
tool, which pulls the crown race/mount off. This tool Stein CRR1
works on all crown races and mounts on fork columns tool shaft
up to 1.5" diameter.
Stein CRR1
The Stein CRR1 has two wedge-like jaws that come slide hammer 2
together from the sides to catch under the edge of the fork-
crown race or mount. A hollow shaft that fits over the fork
column is joined to these jaws. A slide hammer slides down
the shaft to provide the impact that removes the race. The
jaws must be pressed together in a vise to wedge the race up
11.12 To use the Stein CRR1 crown-race-removal tool,
slightly to get better engagement of the jaws before using (1) squeeze the adjustable jaws in until they catch between
the slide hammer. Omitting this wedging step can lead to the crown race and the fork crown (squeeze in vise if nec-
removal failure or tool damage. This design works well on essary), then (2) vigorously accelerate the Stein CRR1 slide
all fork columns up to 1.25" diameter. hammer down to drive the fork-crown race off.
Traditionally mechanics have used a punch and ham-

Fork blade
mer on the bottom face of the fork-crown race to drive
Impact here it off, but certain types of races are marred or damaged
with this technique and it is completely inapplicable to
Crown-race remover almost all suspension forks. The various pullers that are
now available makes this technique obsolete.
1. [ ] Inspect crown race/mount to determine if
is press-fit type (no vertical split) or is com-
pression-secured type (vertical split).
2. [ ] Compression type only: Use fingers to pull
mount of crown. If it is difficult, use slotted
screwdriver to gently spread mount at split
while pulling mount off with fingers.
Fork crown 3. [ ] Hozan, Park, & VAR puller: Clamp long cyl-
(cross-section) inder of tool into bike stand clamp with hole-
end facing up, then insert fork into hole.
Fork-crown race Stein puller: Loosen bolts on wedge device,
(cross-section) then insert fork into wedge end of tool.
Fork column
(cross-section)
11.11 A traditional crown-race remover in use. This

type of tool has very limited usefulness.
11 – 16
11 – HEADSETS
4. [ ] Hozan & VAR puller: Holding fork so that
collet jaws are just above bottom face of
0
crown race/mount, tighten collet-adjusting .8
.9 .1
.2
sleeve by hand until lips of collet jaws just .7 .3
begin to contact seam between crown and .6 .4
race/mount. 0 1 2 3 .5 .5
Park puller: Holding fork so that wedge jaws
are just above bottom face of crown race/ .4 .6
mount, tighten both T-handle bolts until lips .3 .7

of jaws just begin to contact seam between .2
.1 .9
.8
0
crown and race/mount.
Stein puller: Place wedge mechanism in jaws
of bench vise, then tighten vise until lips of
jaws just begin to contact seam between
crown and race/mount.
5. [ ] Hozan & VAR puller: While carefully watch-
ing seam between crown and race/mount,
slowly use wrench to tighten collet-adjusting
sleeve just until seam is seen to be widening.
Park puller: While carefully watching seam
between crown and race mount, carefully 11.13 Measuring the head-tube race.
use T-handles to tighten wedge jaws just
1. [ ] Record original head-tube-race/mount O.D.
until seam is seen to be widening.
here: __________mm
Stein puller: While carefully watching seam
between crown and race mount, carefully
tighten vise jaws against wedges just until
seam is seen to be widening, then tighten
0
bolts on wedge mechanism. .8
.9 .1
.2
6. [ ] All pullers except Stein: Tighten handle at .7 .3
end of tool until race or mount is pulled loose. .6 .4
Stein puller: Remove tool from vise and hold
0 1 2 3 .5 .5
tool/fork assembly up so it is not supported
on any surface. While holding fork upside .4 .6
down with one hand, vigorously and repeat- .3 .7

edly accelerate slide hammer portion of tool .2
.1 .9
.8
0
downward until race or mount is removed.
7. [ ] Loosen collet or wedge mechanism, then
remove fork and race/mount from tool. 11.14 Measuring the fork-crown race.
2. [ ] Record original crown-race/mount I.D. here:

INSTALLING RACES OR MOUNTS __________mm
3. [ ] Record original thread description here: ____
Verification of fit _______________________
When replacing parts and the old parts are at hand,
Stack height is an important consideration if not
measure the fork-column diameter and the thread pitch
replacing a headset with an identical model. For threaded
(if threaded). Measure the inside diameter of the fork-
headsets, if the new headset has a greater stack height
crown race or mount. If there were races or mounts
than the old one, then there will not be enough room to
pressed into the head tube, measure the O.D. of the
install the locknut. Shorter is acceptable because washers
portions of the races or mounts that were inserted into
can be added to the new headset to make it taller. Rather
the head tube. If the headset is the type with integrated
than measuring the old headset, determine the maximum
cartridge bearings, use a caliper to measure the inside
allowable stack height by measuring the length of the head
diameter of the head tube where it contacts the outer
tube and the length of the fork column and subtracting
perimeter of the cartridge bearing. Check HEADSET-FIT
the difference. For threaded headsets, this number is the
FACTORS (tables 11-2 and 11-3, page 11-10) to help
maximum stack height for the replacement headset.
determine the headset type to use or order.
For threadless headsets, the difference between the
fork column length and the head tube length is the maxi-
11 – 17
11 – HEADSETS
mum combined height of the stack height for the replace- 7. [ ] Replace headset with one of compatible
ment headset, the stem-bore height, and any necessary thread size, press fits, and stack height.
spacers that are used to set the stem height. In the next few steps, verify that the press-fit dimen-
To measure stack height of a headset, start by stacking sions for the new headset are a good fit or whether
up the parts of the lower half of the headset (including Loctite is needed to make the fit ideal. The process
bearings). Measure the total height of the stack, then involves measuring the inside diameter of the head tube
subtract the length of the cylinder on the pressed piece and the outside diameter of the head races or mounts to
that inserts inside the head tube. Assemble the complete determine the diameter difference. The head-tube I.D.
upper stack including washers and locknut(s), measure should be smaller than the race or mount O.D., so that
the total height, subtract the length of the cylinder on the there will be interface when the race is pressed in to the
pressed race or mount that inserts inside the head tube, head tube. When subtracting race or mount O.D. from
and subtract the thickness of the lip of the locknut that head-tube I.D., a negative answer indicates that there
sits on top of the fork column. The stack height of the will be interference. The ideal answer range is –.2mm to
headset is the upper and lower stack added together. –.3mm. Based on the diameter difference calculated in
For threaded headsets, if this number is greater than step #10, choose an option: install as is, augment fit with
the difference between the head-tube length and the fork- Loctite, machine the head tube to improve the fit, or get
column length, the headset will not fit. For threadless head- a better-fitting headset.
sets, if this number is greater than the fork-column length, These measurements require an accuracy of .05mm.
less the head-tube length, less the stem-bore height, the Measurements of this accuracy not only require a high-
headset will not fit. Threadless headset setups often have quality caliper, the method in which the caliper is used
spacers washers above the headset to set the stem height. is critical. As a general rule, when measuring an inside
It is always acceptable to reduce the amount or thickness diameter, the largest number the caliper can be made to
of spacers to accommodate a taller-stack headset. read is the accurate measurement; or, when measuring an
outside diameter, the smallest number the caliper can be
made to read is the most accurate measurement. If not
C 100% confident in the measurements, pay close attention
to what happens when attempting to install the parts. If
they slip together with little or no effort, it indicates the
A press fit is marginally loose. Loctite will be needed. If the
parts are extremely difficult to press together, the tolerance
difference is too great. In this case, either a different head-
B set is needed or some machine work is needed on the fork
and/or head tube.
In steps #8 through #10, measurements are taken
and a calculation is made to determine the dimensional
E difference between the head-tube-race O.D. and the head-
D
tube I.D. In step #11, a course of action is chosen, based
on the dimensional difference determined in step #10.
Consider the following examples.
Example 1:
11.15 Measure A, B, C, D, and E. (A–B–C)+(D–E) = head-tube I.D.: 30.1mm
stack height.
race/mount O.D.: 30.0mm.
4. [ ] Measure total length of fork column in milli- 30.1 – 30.0 = .1 (>.0mm)
meters with metric tape measure and record A different headset is needed because the
here: __________mm positive .1mm difference indicates that there
5. [ ] Measure head-tube length in millimeters with will be no interference between the race and
metric tape measure and record here: head tube.
__________mm Example 2:
6. [ ] Subtract step 5 from step 4 and record dif- head-tube I.D.: 30.1mm
ference here: __________mm (maximum race/mount O.D.: 30.2mm.
stack height). 30.1 – 30.2 = –.1
The negative difference indicates that there
11 – 18
11 – HEADSETS
will be some interference to the fit, but it is In the next few steps, verify that the press-fit dimen-
not enough, so Loctite 680 should be used to sions for the new headset are a good fit or whether Loctite
improve the fit. is needed to make the fit ideal. The process involves mea-
Example 3: suring the inside diameter of the fork-crown race or mount
head-tube I.D.: 30.0mm and the outside diameter of the fork-column base to deter-
race/mount O.D.: 30.25mm. mine the diameter difference. The crown-race/mount I.D.
30.0 – 30.25 = –.25 should be smaller than the fork-column-base O.D., so that
The negative .25mm difference is inside the there will be interface when the race/mount is pressed
acceptable difference range (–.2 to –.3mm), so on to the fork. When subtracting fork-column-base O.D.
the part can be installed as is. from race/mount I.D., a negative answer indicates that
Example 4: there will be interference. The ideal answer range is –.1mm
head-tube I.D.: 29.9mm to –.2mm. Based on the diameter difference calculated in
race/mount O.D.: 30.25mm. step #14, choose an option: install as is, augment fit with
29.9 – 30.25 = –.35 Loctite, machine the fork-column base to improve the fit,
The negative .35mm difference is outside the or get a better-fitting headset.
acceptable difference range (–.2 to –.3mm), so In steps #12 through #14, measurements are taken and
the part can be installed only if the head tube a calculation is made to determine the dimensional differ-
is reamed to improve the fit. ence between the crown-race I.D. and the fork-column-base
8. [ ] Measure I.D. of head tube in two or more O.D. In step #15, a course of action is chosen based on the
places and average the result. Record here: dimensional difference determined in step #14. Consider
_____ + _____ = _____ ÷ 2 = ______mm the following examples.
Example 1:
crown-race/mount I.D.: 27.1mm
Reamed portion fork-column-base O.D.: 27.0mm
of head tube
27.1 – 27.0 = .1 (>.0mm)
A different headset is needed because the
.1mm difference indicates that there will be no
interference between the race and fork.
Example 2:
0
.9 .1
.8 .2
.7 .3 fork-column-base O.D.: 27.05mm

.6 .4 27.0 – 27.05 = –.05
0 1 2 3
.5 .5 The negative difference indicates that there
.4 .6
will be some interference to the fit, but it is
.3
.7
not enough, so Loctite 680 should be used to
.2 .8 improve the fit.
.1 0 .9
Example 3:
fork-column-base O.D.: 27.15mm
11.16 Use the caliper jaws to measure inside diameter
and make sure that the tips of the jaws are not inserted
27.0 – 27.15 = –.15
beyond the reamed portion of the head tube. The negative .15mm difference is inside the
acceptable difference range (–.1 to –.2mm), so
9. [ ] Measure O.D. of new races or mounts to be the part can be installed as is.
pressed into head tube and record here: Example 4:
_______mm crown-race/mount I.D.: 27.0mm
10. [ ] Subtract step 9 from step 8 and record fork-column-base O.D.: 27.25mm
answer here: __________mm 27.0 – 27.25 = –.25
11. If step 10 is (check one): The negative .25mm difference is outside the
[ ] >.0mm, find different headset. acceptable difference range (–.1 to –.2mm), so
[ ] .0 to –.19mm, install part w/ Loctite RC680. the part can be installed only if the fork-column
[ ] –.20 to –.30mm, install headset as is. base is counter-reamed to improve the fit.
[ ] <–.30mm, ream head tube (not always
possible) or get new headset.
11 – 19
11 – HEADSETS
12. [ ] Measure I.D. of fork-crown race/mount and
record here: __________mm
13. [ ] Measure O.D. of fork-column base and
record here: __________mm
14. [ ] Subtract step 13 from step 12 and record
answer here: __________mm
In the first option of step #15, it indicates that if the
result of the calculation is greater than .0mm, a different- Bearing
sized headset must be used. There is one additional option
that can be very effective if the result in step #15 is between Cup-press-tool insert
.0 and .2mm. A Stein KT knurling tool can be used to
increase the effective diameter of the fork-column base by Upper head-tube race
up to .2mm. Use Loctite RC680 in addition to knurling.
Press until gap is gone
This knurling technique has the same effect as an old
mechanic’s trick called “staking.” To stake a fork-column
base, a chisel is used to make indentations at multiple Head tube
points around the fork-column base. Both the knurling
tool and the staking technique cause some metal to rise
up by forcing other metal to be indented. The knurling Press until gap is gone
tool does a more thorough and consistent job without Lower head-tube race
any risk of mis-striking with the chisel when performing
the staking technique. The knurling tool serves triple use, Cup-press-tool insert
enlarging handlebar centers and seat posts as well.
Press-tool-insert keeper plate
To use the knurling tool, the tool is put in the vise jaws
and the fork column is inserted inside the knurling tool.
Close the vise just enough to cause the toothed wheels
11.17 Installing the races or mounts into the head
of the knurling tool to indent the fork-column base, then tube with a Hozan C438.
rotate the fork around several times. If the knurling pat-
tern is not very pronounced, repeat the process with the 18. [ ] Inspect head-tube races/mounts to confirm
vise closed tighter. they appear pressed in fully.
15. If step 14 is (check one): The fork-crown race or mount is generally a press fit,
[ ] >.0mm, find different headset. although some mounts are a compression-ring design. To
[ ] .0 to –.09mm, install part w/ Loctite RC680. use a slide hammer to install a press-fit fork-crown race or
[ ] –.10 to –.20mm, install headset as is.
mount, simply place the race on the fork-column base and
[ ] <–.20mm, mill fork crown (not always pos-
sible) or get better-fitting headset. accelerate the slide hammer down the fork column against
the race or mount. Do not support the fork on its dropouts while
Pressing races or mounts doing this! Simply hold the fork in mid-air with one hand
16. [ ] Clean with alcohol or acetone all three while accelerating the slide hammer with the other hand.
pressed-race/mount mating surfaces, plus
outside of fork-crown-race/mount seat
and inside of head tube. Prepare same sur- Crown-race installer
faces with Loctite 242 to prevent corrosion
(optional) or Loctite RC680 to improve poor
fit (if necessary).
When pressing in the head-tube races or mounts,
they must be pressed on fully. There is no specific force Crown race
required, but there will be a distinct “bottomed-out” feel-
ing when they are in fully.
17. [ ] Insert larger race/mount into bottom of head
tube and smaller one into top of head tube
and press in fully with press. If aluminum
parts appear to be developing shavings as
they press in, remove shavings before com- 11.18 With the crown race sitting on top of the
pleting installation. crown-race seat, rapidly accelerate the fork and the
crown-race installer toward each other.
11 – 20
11 – HEADSETS
19. [ ] Press-fit type: Use slide hammer or press 1. [ ] Remove ball from each retainer and measure
tool to press crown race or crown mount them with Park SBC-1 or caliper.
onto fork. Note upper ball-bearing size here: __________
Compression-ring type: Use fingers to seat Note lower ball-bearing size here: __________
crown mount onto fork crown.
20. [ ] Press-fit type only: Inspect that crown race/
mount appears fully seated.
Bearing
ASSEMBLY Grease
Installing ball retainers
Forget any rules of thumb about which way ball
Cup
retainers face in relation to the cups and cones or relative
to the ground. There is only one way to get ball retainers
in correctly and that is to test-mate them both ways to
the cone and both ways to the cup. In one of the four
combinations, the clip that holds the balls together (instead
of the balls) will be obviously contacting the ball race on
the cone or the cup. Install the retainers opposite this. If 11.19 Put a light layer of grease in each cup. The
thickness of the layer of grease should be less than 1/2
good measurements of the exposed thread were taken the diameter of the ball bearing.
once the locknut was removed, original retainers were in
correctly, and the original or an identical headset has been 2. [ ] Lightly coat cup race with grease. One mil-
installed, putting a retainer in backward will reduce the limeter thickness of grease should be more
exposed thread by more than a millimeter. than enough. The upper cup could be an
1. [ ] Test-mate retainers facing both ways to adjustable race or upper head-tube race.
each cone and cup to find combinations that
Last ball installed
cause retainer rings to contact races.
2. [ ] Thoroughly grease ball retainers and cups.
3. [ ] Install retainers in cups in orientation that will
not lead retainer rings to contact races.
Replacing ball retainers with loose balls
The original ball bearings are usually in a retainer (a
clip that holds the balls together in a set). Although there
are no mechanical advantages to using retainers, there
are several disadvantages. Installing loose balls is always
recommended. If installing loose balls, try to find the
highest-quality ones available. Good balls are described
as grade 25. Decent ball bearings might be described in the 11.20 Place the balls in the cup so that they touch
each other. If a gap remains that is too small for a ball,
range of grade 100 to grade 200. Any higher number than put one more in anyway.
these is a mediocre bearing.
Balls in a retainer are more expensive to buy in a high 3. [ ] Fill cup with balls and make sure they are all
grade, and grade information is rarely available for balls in touching each other (absolutely no gaps).
a retainer. Retainers create a fixed relationship between the 4. [ ] Test-mate upper cup to upper cone, sep-
balls, which is one of the causes of brinelling, the primary arate, and inspect balls.
cause of headset failure. In the next step, some balls will be removed. The
reason this is done is to prevent headset failure from
Installing loose balls brinelling. By leaving the balls room to move around
Getting a headset assembled with loose balls can be relative to each other it guarantees that any brinelling
tricky. Follow these steps carefully and there will be a good that occurs is in random locations. When ball retainers
chance of success. are used or the cup is left full, the brinelling occurs in the
same places over and over again until it reaches a notice-
able depth and causes headset failure.
11 – 21
11 – HEADSETS
6. [ ] Test-mate cone and cup again to seat balls
and inspect depth of each cone in each cup.
7. [ ] Coat balls lightly with grease.
8. [ ] Insert seal (if any) into cup or onto cone.
9. [ ] Repeat steps 2–8 for lower cone and cup.
Installing needle bearings
Needle-bearing systems may have the races inte-
grated into the pressed pieces, or the races may be
separate from the pressed mounts, in which case the
races are called floating races.
11.21 If the balls are not jumbled after test-mating the

parts, remove two balls.
Adjuster cup
Non-integral race
Roller-bearing retainer
Integral race
Upper pressed piece
Lower pressed piece
Conical-race/retainer
11.22 If the balls remain jumbled after test-mating the sandwich
parts, remove three balls.
Fork-race mount
5. [ ] Remove two balls from cup if they sit level,
three balls if jumbled. 11.23b A needle-bearing headset with floating (non-
integral) races.
In the next step, re-mate the cup and cone back
together. The function of this step is to observe the depth 1. [ ] Floating races only: Thoroughly grease both
of the cone in the cup. This way, if the balls get jumbled faces of all floating races.
during assembly, it will show up as a cone not inserting as Integrated races only: Thoroughly grease
far into the cup; take the headset apart and reassemble it race surfaces on all pressed pieces.
before going to the trouble of adjusting it. Also, this same 2. [ ] Floating races only: Assemble races to both
observation was made before disassembly. If the relation faces of retainers.
between these parts has changed, it probably means the 3. [ ] Floating races only: Install retainer/race
assemblies to fork mount.
ball size has changed.
Integrated races only: Install retainer to fork
crown.
4. [ ] Floating races only: Install retainer/race
assemblies to upper head-tube mount.
Integrated races only: Install retainer to
upper head-tube race.
11.23a Mate the cone and cup together again to seat

the balls in place, then observe the depth of the cone in
the cup (it should look the same after final assembly).
11 – 22
11 – HEADSETS
Installing cartridge bearings

If the cartridge bearings are not permanently inte-
grated with the pressed mounts, they are installed at this
time. Although there should be no motion between the
cartridge bearings and the mounts during normal operation,
if the headset adjustment ever works loose, unintentional
motion may occur. Also, corrosion of cartridge bearings,
mounts, and seats can be an issue. Coating the surfaces of No contact
the mounts or seats with anti-seize compound at the points
they contact the bearings is the best way to reduce problems
caused by unintentional motion and corrosion.
External view Cut-away view
Cover
Compression ring
Cartridge bearing
Pressed mount
Headtube
11.24 Engage the adjustable race to the top of the

Pressed-mount headset fork, while maintaining no contact between the balls and
the cones.
2. [ ] Assemble fork into head tube and adjustable

Integrated headset race onto fork. NOTE: For loose-ball head-
sets only, cones should not insert fully into
Headtube with cups at this point!
integrated mount
Cartridge bearing
Fork-crown mount
11.23c This illustration shows external and cut-away
views of two similar headsets. The top stack shows a
pressed-mount headset (Zero Stack®), and the bottom
stack is a fully integrated headset (Integrated System®).
The orientations of the angular-contact cartridge bear-
ings remains the same regardless of the headset type.
Regardless of the cartridge-bearing brand or style,

there is one face that has a conical shape at the outer
perimeter of the bearing assembly, and there is one face
that has a conical shape at the inner perimeter of the
bearing assembly. Which way the cartridge bearing faces
is critical to headset performance and safety.
1. [ ] Treat bearing-contact surfaces of all mounts
and seats with anti-seize compound.
2. [ ] Identify which face of each cartridge bearing
has conical shape at outer perimeter, then
install into head tube or head-tube mounts
with this face toward head tube or mount. 11.25 With the upper race seated and with a down-
Installing a threaded fork ward pressure on the fork, turn the adjustable race
clockwise to draw the fork up into place.
1. [ ] Grease fork threads and fork column fully.
11 – 23
11 – HEADSETS
3. [ ] Drop fork down and thread race fully on to 3. [ ] In absence of stem-manufacturer torque
draw fork up fully. recommendations, measure stem-binder bolt
4. [ ] Loose balls only: Inspect if positions of thread diameters and record here: ______mm
cones in cups appear similar to how the 4. [ ] Grease stem-binder bolt threads and top-cap
cone positions appeared when checked in bolt threads.
ASSEMBLY step 6 (page 11-22), then check 5. [ ] Grease fork column fully.
for smooth rotation of fork. 6. [ ] Install stem-binder bolt(s) loosely into stem.
5. [ ] Install cover (if any), washer(s), lockring (if 7. [ ] Install seal (if any) onto crown race/mount
any), and brackets (if any). or into lower head-tube race/mount.
If ball size has increased, a retainer has been inverted, 8. [ ] Insert fork into bottom of head tube until top
or the balls are jumbled and out of position, it will show of fork column extends fully out. For con-
up as a reduced amount of thread available for the top venience, use clamp, line, or elastic cord to
locknut. If the ball size has been reduced, or washers or hold fork in frame.
9. [ ] Ball-bearing and needle-bearing types only:
brackets have been left out, it will show up as an increased
Install adjustable race/mount over fork col-
amount of thread available for the top locknut. In the next umn and onto upper bearings.
step, measure the result and compare it to the measure- 10. [ ] Install compression ring (conical-face first)
ment taken during disassembly. onto fork column, then seat into face of
6. [ ] Measure exposed thread and verify it adjustable race or cartridge bearing.
matches pre-disassembly dimension (step 11. [ ] Install cover, then install any spacers.
9, page 11-12). If installing a new headset, 12. [ ] Install stem onto fork column.
check that at least 4.5mm of thread is avail- 13. [ ] Check that top of stem (or washers added
able for locknut. on top of stem) is above top of fork column
If changing the number of washers, whether a bracket by 2–3mm.
is used, or the entire headset, verify that there is not too 14. [ ] Install top cap, then thread in top-cap bolt
much thread for the locknut. If there is, the lip on the top just enough to hold fork from dropping,
of the locknut will stop against the top of the fork column then remove any device used to temporar-
before securing against the adjustable race. ily hold up fork.
Insert .2mm feeler gauge under locknut lip

ADJUSTMENT
Threaded headsets
1. [ ] Install wheel if not already installed (strad-
dling wheel with legs provides greater con-
trol in following steps).
Note: Skip to step 3 if adjusting headset at conclu-
sion of overhaul or installation.
2. [ ] Simple locknut type only: Hold adjustable
race stationary, break loose locknut, then turn
adjustable race 1/4 turn (counterclockwise).
Bound locknut type only: Loosen hex-key fit-
ting in locknut, hold adjustable race station-
ary, break loose locknut, then turn adjust-
11.26 Use a thin feeler gauge between the locknut lip able race 1/4 turn (counterclockwise).
and the top of the fork column to verify that the lip is Bound race type only: Loosen hex-key fitting
not stopping against the fork column. in race, then turn adjustable race 1/4 turn
(counterclockwise).
7. [ ] Thread on, but do not secure, locknut. Verify 3. [ ] Thread race clockwise to gently contact
lip does not bottom on top of steering tube. bearings. Note: Contact should be as light as
Installing a threadless fork is detectable!
4. [ ] Locknut types only: Hold fork stationary and
1. [ ] Only if installing star nut in new fork: Thread
star nut (cup-face first) onto star nut tool, turn race at least 90° counterclockwise.
start star nut into fork column, then ham-
mer on tool until tool shoulder is seated fully
around top of fork column (unthread tool).
2. [ ] Remove stem-binder bolt(s) from stem.
11 – 24
11 – HEADSETS
Waste piece
-3
Headset Apron
sticker
-2 -1
Top tube
11.29 Install the Headset Apron sticker. Note that
1- Clockwise until the Headset Apron sticker is installed with the numbers
gentle contact upside down and the edge as close to the Top Tube
2- Counterclockwise 90º sticker as possible.
11.27 Turn the adjustable race clockwise until it 6. [ ] Hold fork square to frame and put BBI Head-
gently contacts the ball bearings, then turn it at least set Apron sticker on adjustable race so that
90° counterclockwise. Placement of the top tube mark it hangs down like an apron and “0” mark
sticker (step #6) is also illustrated. lines up with top tube mark. (When sticker is
on correctly, calibration lines are on bottom
The following adjustment procedure is very dif- edge and numbers are upside down at top
ferent from the way most mechanics adjust headsets. edge of sticker.) If not using Headset Apron
The procedure uses an adjustment-calibration sticker sticker, just put matching marks on top tube
(a BBI product), but a piece of masking tape that you and masking tape on adjustable race.
mark yourself can be used as an alternative to the sticker. Turn clockwise
This approach (with sticker or tape) may seem awkward
at first, but students at BBI who were very experienced
with headset adjustment prior to arriving at BBI endorse Hold
this approach wholeheartedly. stationary
5. [ ] Put sticker with top tube mark (or marked
masking tape) on top tube with mark close
to adjustable race and centered on top of
top tube (see figure 11.27).
Hold wheel
BARNETT Peel, then cut
This portion can be used between knees
B I C YC LE on dotted lines. like an apron string to wrap
INSTITUTE rest of way around race.
HEADSET This edge stuck to widest point of race

APRON
+6 +5 +4 +3 +2 +1 0 -1 -2 -3 Up
Looser Down
Tighter
Top tube mark
11.28 This is the BBI Headset Apron sticker that is

recommended for precise and easy headset adjustment.
11.30 Stabilizing the fork while securing the adjustment.

7. [ ] Locknut-types only: Stabilize fork with wheel
(or Stein FS) between knees, hold race sta-
tionary, and secure locknut to 300in-lbs.
Bound-race-types only: Use hex key to
secure binding bolt.
In step #8, bearing play is checked by jerking on the
bottom ends of the fork blades. With non-suspension
forks, this method is preferred because it provides the
greatest leverage. With suspension forks, it is necessary to
11 – 25
11 – HEADSETS
have the handlebars installed and to jerk on the ends of Threadless headsets
the handlebars instead. This is because play between the
NOTE: If adjusting an already-installed head-
sliders (lower tubes) and stanchions can be misinterpreted set, loosen stem-binder bolts before starting
as play in the headset adjustment. adjustment.
8. [ ] Check for play by grasping both fork blades 1. [ ] If no knock is apparent in headset, loosen
(or Stein FS clamp) in one hand and bottom cap bolt one turn, then tap down on fork
of down tube in other hand, then jerking fork crown or brace with plastic mallet.
forward and back. Rotate fork to several 2. [ ] While jerking forward and back on fork,
positions and check further for play. If there tighten cap bolt slowly until just a trace of
is no play, check for smooth rotation. If not knocking can be felt.
smooth, restart at step 4, but start with race
In the following step, the stem bolts are torqued.
turned farther counterclockwise.
When the stem is equipped with two bolts side-by-side
on the same slot, they must be torqued with the correct
technique. This technique is to always go back to the pre-
1 01 vious bolt if the current bolt moves before the torque is
achieved. This back-and-forth technique typically takes
two to four repetitions before both bolts remain stationary
at the desired torque.
3. [ ] Align stem and torque bolts to manufacturer’s
specification or to 45in-lbs if specification is
not available.
In the next step, bearing knock is detected by jerking
on the ends of the handlebar. Grasp the ends of the bar
firmly and jerk up on one side and down on the other,
alternating repeatedly. This should be done at a variety of
11.31 With fork square to frame, turn the race clock- locations within the normal range of the fork’s rotation.
wise to the next “+” mark to tighten the adjustment 4. [ ] Check again for knocking by jerking on ends
or counterclockwise to the next “–” mark to loosen the of handlebar. If knocking is not felt, adjust-
adjustment. ment is done. If knocking is felt, proceed to
next step.
9. [ ] If using Headset Apron sticker: Tighten 5. [ ] Loosen stem bolts until stem rotates about
adjustment by putting the next “+” mark on fork column easily.
sticker at top tube mark with wheel lined up In the following step, the suggested increment of
with down tube. (If headset had no play, but adjustment is 1/6 turn. This amount is easy to track by
was smooth, loosen adjustment to next “–” noting the position of one flat (or corner) on the hex key,
mark instead.)
then turning the hex key until the next flat (or corner)
If not using sticker: Put new mark 2–3mm
reaches the same position. When play is slight or inter-
counterclockwise from last mark and adjust
new mark to line up with top tube mark to mittent, 1/12 turns may be the preferred increment (turn
tighten adjustment. until the next corner reaches the same position as a flat,
10. [ ] Locknut types only: Secure locknut to mini- or vice versa).
mum 300in-lbs. 6. [ ] Turn adjusting bolt in plastic cap approxi-
11. [ ] Locknut types only: Check for play and mately 1/6 turn (clockwise).
repeat adjustment as necessary, securing 7. [ ] Align stem and torque bolts again.
locknut each time before checking for play. 8. [ ] Check again for knocking when jerking on
(If headset originally had no play, repeat bars. If knocking is not felt, adjustment is
loosening adjustment until play is found, done. If knocking is felt, repeat steps 5–7 as
then return to last “no play” adjustment.) many times as necessary.
12. [ ] Bound-locknut types only: Use hex key to
secure binder bolt.
11 – 26
11 – HEADSETS
STACK-HEIGHT TABLES is a possibility that an older headset may still be in a shop’s

inventory for years after it has ceased to be available, this
Table 11-4, below and on the following five pages, table can provide stack information without having to
is divided into six sections for different types and size assemble and measure these older headsets.
standards of headsets. These sections are: The blank lines in each table are for the addition of
Section Headset type Page unlisted headsets that may be encountered, so that they only
A 1" threaded headsets 27-28 need be measured the first time they are encountered.
B 1–1/8" threaded headsets 29 In some cases, different reference sources list different
C 1–1/4" threaded headsets 30 stack heights for the same headset. When this has been
D 1–1/4" threadless headsets 30 encountered in the creation of these tables, the larger
E 1" threadless headsets 31 stack figure is the one that has been used. This insures that
F 1–1/8" threadless headsets 32 when selecting a headset from this table, it will either be
The headsets in each section are arranged in ascend- an acceptable height, or it could require the addition of
ing order of stack height. For easy reference, the shading stack washers, but it will never be too tall to use.
in the table groups headsets together that are within the
same 1mm stack-height range.
Many of the headsets listed are no longer available
from manufacturers or distributors. However, since there
HEADSET FITS FOR 1" THREADED-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,A)

STACK BRAND MODEL FIT STANDARDS AVAILABLE
HEIGHT
30.0mm Shimano Dura-Ace (HP-7600) Campy1
30.3mm Tange-Seiki Passage Campy/JIS3
31.2mm Tange-Seiki MA-60 Campy/JIS3
32.5mm Shimano Sante, RX-100 Campy1
33.0mm American Classic Trilock, Classic Campy1
33.0mm Campagnolo Veloce Campy1
33.0mm Chris King Short Stack, 2Nut, GripNut Campy1
33.0mm Ritchey Logic Comp, Pro WCS, Logic Expert Campy1
33.0mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M730, HP-M732, HP-R500SB) Campy1
33.0mm Tange-Seiki Extrude (steel) Campy1
33.4mm Tange-Seiki Levin CDS Campy1, JIS2, Campy/JIS3
33.5mm Shimano 105 (HP-1050) Campy1
33.5mm Shimano 105SC (HP-1055) Campy1, JIS2
33.5mm Shimano 600 Ultegra (HP-6400) Campy1
33.5mm Shimano Deore (HP-MT60), Deore DX (HP-M650, HP-M651) Campy1, JIS2
33.5mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M735) Campy1, JIS2
33.5mm Shimano Exage (HP-M350, HP-A450, HP-M450) Campy1
33.5mm Tioga DSL Campy1
33.8mm Campagnolo Nuovo Record (track), Gran Sport Campy1
34.0mm Odyssey Pro Campy1
34.0mm YST HP-8002W JIS2
34.3mm Shimano XTR (HP-M900, HP-M901) Campy1
1
Campy means head-tube races are 30.2mm or equivalent and fork-crown race is 26.4mm or equivalent.
2
JIS means head-tube races are 30.0mm or equivalent and fork-crown race is 27.0mm or equivalent.
3
Campy/JIS means head-tube races are Campy 30.2mm and fork-crown race is JIS 27.0mm.
11 – 27
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET FITS FOR 1" THREADED-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,A cont.)

STACK BRAND MODEL FIT STANDARDS AVAILABLE
HEIGHT
35.0mm Tange Levin CD Campy1, JIS2
35.0mm Victor H67 Campy1
35.5mm FSA Duron DL Campy1,
35.5mm Shimano RX100 (HP-R500) Campy1
35.5mm Suntour Superbe Pro Campy1
36.0mm American Classic Airlock Campy1
36.0mm Dia-Compe Threadhead Campy1
36.0mm Tange-Seiki Extrude (alloy) Campy1
36.2mm Suntour Superbe Track Campy1
36.3mm Shimano Dura-Ace (HP-7400) Campy1
36.5mm YST HP-8311 Campy1, JIS2
37.0mm Onza Mongo UFO, Mongo II Campy1
37.0mm Stronglight X94 Campy1
37.0mm Suntour XC-Pro Grease Guard Campy1, JIS2
37.0mm FSA Duron Campy1
37.6mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M740), Deore LX (HP-M563), Campy1, JIS2
STX (HB-MC30), Dura-Ace (HP-7410),
600 Ultegra (HP-6500), 105 (HP-5500)
38.0mm Mavic 315 Campy1
38.0mm Specialized Direct Drive Campy1, JIS2
38.0mm Tioga Beartrap Campy1
38.0mm Tange-Seiki Levin Campy1, JIS2, Campy/JIS3
38.5mm Campagnolo C-Record (track), Chorus, Athena Campy1
39.0mm Mavic 305 Campy1
39.0mm Synchros Aluminum/sealed Campy1
39.1mm Campagnolo Nuovo Record, Victory, Triomphe, Olympus Campy1
39.1mm FSA Duron JIS2
39.5mm Campagnolo Xenon Campy1
40.0mm Shimano 600EX (HP-6207) Campy1
40.0mm Tange-Seiki Comet (cartridge bearing) Campy1
40.0mm Tange-Seiki MTB225 Campy1, JIS2, Campy/JIS3
40.2mm Stronglight Delta, A9 Campy1
40.7mm Campagnolo Euclid, Centaur, Olympus (alloy), Veloce Campy1
40.7mm Stronglight X-14MTB, X-12, A-93 Campy1, Campy/JIS3
41.0mm Wilderness Trail WTB/King Campy1
41.2mm Campagnolo Croce D’Aune Campy1
41.5mm Campagnolo Record (aluminum), C-Record Campy1
42.2mm Campagnolo Super Record (road) Campy1
43.0mm Stronglight B-10, C-11 Campy1
44.0mm Tange-Seiki G-Master 2000 Campy1, Campy/JIS3
1
Campy means head-tube races are 30.2mm or equivalent and fork-crown race is 26.4mm or equivalent.
2
JIS means head-tube races are 30.0mm or equivalent and fork-crown race is 27.0mm or equivalent.
3
Campy/JIS means head-tube races are Campy 30.2mm and fork-crown race is JIS 27.0mm.
11 – 28
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET FITS FOR 1-1/8" THREADED-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,B)

STACK BRAND MODEL DESCRIPTION
HEIGHT
33.0mm Ritchey Logic Expert Conventional
33.0mm Tange-Seiki Extrude (steel) Conventional
33.5mm Shimano Altus (HP-R501) Conventional
33.5mm Shimano Deore DX (HP-M650, HP-M651) Conventional
33.5mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M736) Conventional
33.5mm Tioga Avenger OS Conventional
33.9mm American Classic Trilock Allen bolt locking
33.9mm King Threaded, Gripnut Sealed
34.0mm Odyssey Pro OS Allen bolt locking
34.3mm Shimano XTR (HP-M900, HP-M901) Conventional
35.0mm Specialized Pro Conventional
35.0mm Stronglight X-15MTB, X-17 Roller (needle) bearings
35.0mm Victor 93W, H67 Conventional
35.0mm YST CS-717 Conventional
35.5mm Shimano Altus (HP-R501) Conventional
35.5mm Tange-Seiki AP-1 OS Conventional
36.0mm American Classic Airlock Allen bolt locking
36.0mm Dia-Compe Threadhead Threaded version of Aheadset
36.0mm Tange-Seiki Levin OS CDS Conventional
36.5mm Edco Competition Cartridge bearing
36.5mm Race Face Real Seal II Allen bolt locking
37.5mm Tange-Seiki Extrude (alloy) Conventional
37.5mm YST CS-737 Conventional
37.6mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M741), Deore LX (HP-M564), Conventional
STX (HB-MC31)
38.0mm Mavic 316 Allen bolt locking
38.5mm King 2Nut Cartridge bearing
38.5mm Onza Mongo II Allen bolt locking
38.5mm Tange-Seiki High Roller Needle bearing
39.5mm Campagnolo Record OR Conventional
40.6mm Tange-Seiki Comet Cartridge bearing
41.0mm Campagnolo Chorus, Athena Conventional
11 – 29
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET FITS FOR 1-1/4" THREADED-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,C)

STACK BRAND MODEL DESCRIPTION
HEIGHT
33.0mm Ritchey Logic Conventional
33.0mm American Classic Trilock Allen bolt locking
33.5mm Shimano Deore DX (HP-M650, HP-M651) Conventional
35.0mm YST Ultralight Conventional
35.0mm King Threaded, Gripnut Sealed
36.0mm American Classic Airlock Allen bolt locking
36.0mm Dia-Compe Threadhead, Gripnut Threaded version of Aheadset
37.0mm Tange-Seiki VP-5000 Conventional
38.0mm Mavic 317 Allen bolt locking
38.0mm Victor 96W Conventional
38.5mm Onza Mongo II Allen bolt locking
39.5mm Campagnolo Record OR Conventional
39.9mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M742) Conventional
40.0mm King 2Nut Cartridge bearing
40.3mm Shimano Deore XT (HP-M737), XTR (HP-M902) Conventional
41.0mm YST CS-707S Conventional
41.0mm Campagnolo Chorus Conventional
43.0mm YST CS-707A Conventional
44.0mm Dia-Compe Threadhead S-Series II Conventional
HEADSET FITS FOR 1-1/4" THREADLESS-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,D)

NOTE: The height of the stem must be added to the following stack-height figures when calculating fit.
STACK BRAND MODEL FIT STANDARD AVAILABLE
HEIGHT
27.0mm Aheadset Kontak SA 1-1/4"
29.4mm Aheadset Kontak DL 1-1/4"
29.7mm Aheadset S-Series 1-1/4"
29.0mm Cane Creek HS 0600 series 1-1/4"
30.0mm Aheadset S-Series II 1-1/4"
31.0mm King NoThreadSet, Team NoThreadSet 1-1/4"
32.0mm Aheadset Kontak 1-1/4"
11 – 30
11 – HEADSETS
TRADITIONAL HEADSET FITS FOR 1" THREADLESS-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,E)

HEIGHT
21.8mm Cane Creek SL-5 1" Campy
24.0mm Tange-Seiki NSS-STS 1" Campy
24.5mm Aheadset STS 1" Campy
24.5mm Campagnolo Chorus, Record 1" Campy
24.9mm Aheadset Kontak DL 1" Campy
26.5mm Aheadset Kontak SA, SAS, AL, AC 1" Campy
26.5mm Cane Creek C-2 1" Campy
26.6mm Cane Creek S-2, S-6 1" Campy
27.0mm FSA Orbit XLII, Orbit Xtreme 1" Campy
27.0mm Ritchey Scuzzy Logic Pro, Logic WCS 1" Campy
27.0mm Stronglight Headlight 1" Campy
27.0mm Synchros Hardcore 1" Campy
28.0mm Aheadset Kontak 1" Campy
28.0mm Tange-Seiki NSS-ALS 1" Campy
28.0mm Tioga Alchemy 1" Campy
28.0mm YST G-force 1" Campy/JIS3
29.8mm Aheadset S-series 1" Campy
30.0mm Aheadset S-series II 1" Campy
30.0mm Cane Creek S-5, S-Pro 1" Campy
30.0mm Ritchey Fuzzy Logic Pro 1" Campy
31.0mm Chris King Devolution 1" Campy
31.0mm FSA Orbit UF 1" Campy
31.0mm Tange-Seiki Comet Steel 1" Campy
34.0mm King NoThreadSet, Team NoThreadSet 1" Campy
35.0mm Ritchey Fuzzy Logic, Logic 1" Campy
37.0mm Ritchey Logic Pro, Logic Pro WCS 1" Campy
37.0mm American Classic TriLock 511010, 511020 1" Campy
41.9mm Kor G-force 1" Campy/JIS3
11 – 31
11 – HEADSETS
TRADITIONAL HEADSET FITS FOR 1-1/8" THREADLESS-FORK COLUMNS (table 11-4,F)

HEIGHT
21.8mm Cane Creek SL-5 1-1/8" Traditional
25.5mm Aheadset SE 1-1/8" Traditional
26.4mm Aheadset Kontak DL, STS 1-1/8" Traditional
26.6mm Cane Creek C-2, S-2, S-6 1-1/8" Traditional
27.0mm Aheadset Kontak SA, SAS, AL, AC, SX, SX F/S 1-1/8" Traditional
27.0mm FSA Orbit Extreme 1-1/8" Traditional
27.0mm Synchros Hardcore 1-1/8" Traditional
27.6mm Aheadset S-series 1-1/8" Traditional
28.0mm Cane Creek HS 0500 series 1-1/8" Traditional
28.0mm FSA Orbit XL 1-1/8" Traditional
28.0mm Tioga Alchemy, High Roller 1-1/8" Traditional
28.0mm Ritchey Scuzzy Logic Comp, Logic WCS 1-1/8" Traditional
28.5mm Aheadset TRB 1-1/8" Traditional
30.0mm FSA Orbit UF 1-1/8" Traditional
30.0mm Cane Creek S-5, S-Pro 1-1/8" Traditional
30.0mm Aheadset Kontak S-Series II 1-1/8" Traditional
30.0mm FSA Orbit XL-II, Orbit Xtreme Pro 1-1/8" Traditional
30.0mm Ritchey Fuzzy Logic Pro 1-1/8" Traditional
31.0mm WTB Momentum 1-1/8" Traditional
31.3mm Tange-Seiki NSS-ALM 1-1/8" Traditional
31.4mm King NoThreadSet, Team NoThreadSet 1-1/8" Traditional
31.5mm Race Face Real Seal, Real Seal DH Stainless, SL 1-1/8" Traditional
31.9mm Tange-Seiki Comet Steel, Comet DL 1-1/8" Traditional
32.5mm Race Face Thermo SP 1-1/8" Traditional
33.0mm American Classic TriLock 511010, 511020 1-1/8" Traditional
33.2mm WTB New Paradigm 1-1/8" Traditional
33.5mm Aheadset Kontak 1-1/8" Traditional
35.0mm Ritchey Fuzzy Logic, Logic 1-1/8" Traditional
37.0mm Ritchey Logic Pro, Logic Pro WCS 1-1/8" Traditional
41.0mm YST G-force 1-1/8" Traditional
41.9mm Kor G-force 1-1/8" Traditional
11 – 32
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET TROUBLESHOOTING (table 11-5)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: As the headset is turned, there is a constant pattern of the adjustment feeling tight at one
point and loose at another.
Head tube and/or fork crown need facing and are Always face both.
causing the races not to be in line with each other.
Fork column is bent, causing the races not to be in Replace the fork.
line with each other.
Races are not fully seated, causing the races not Inspect, then disassemble headset and repress the
to be in line with each other. races (all three).
SYMPTOM: As the headset is turned, it has one or more positions that it tends to settle at, as though it
were indexed. Also, the fork tends to lock in the straight-ahead alignment and will not stay on its own if
turned a degree or two to the side. The symptom is sometimes described as automatic pilot. The proper
name is brinelling.
Dents in the races of the lower stack. (Aggravat- Replace the lower stack or entire headset. Use loose
ing factors are use of ball retainers and over-tight balls, two less balls than the maximum, and do not
adjustments.) over-tighten the adjustment.
Dents in one portion of the race more than another Face the head tube and fork crown (shop) and re-
indicate races have been out of alignment. place the lower stack or complete headset.
SYMPTOM: When adjusting the headset, it changes from having a trace of play to being obviously over-
tight with only one ten-degree adjustment.
Wrong size balls (likely if ball size was assumed or Disassemble and try the next likely size.
guessed).
Inverted retainer(s). Disassemble, inspect, and assemble correctly.
Mismatched brands of parts within one stack. Replace necessary parts.
Head tube and fork crown need facing, particularly Face head tube and fork crown.
if loose spot is at only one location of rotation.
Dry grease (particularly if headset is old). Overhaul headset.
SYMPTOM: An erratic symptom of tightness or looseness appears and disappears, particularly when the
fork is rotated, or a sound of clicking, popping, or snapping accompanies a change from an adjustment
that is tight to one that is loose when the fork is turned, but the headset has not been adjusted. Any
erratic tightness or looseness.
Ball(s) out of position in races. Disassemble, inspect, reassemble.
Too many balls in a cup. Disassemble, inspect, reassemble.
SYMPTOM: Headset will not hold its adjustment after riding bike.
Inexpensive new headset breaking in. Readjust.
Locknut inadequately secured. Tighten locknut.
Locknut properly tightened, not remaining secured. Use Loctite 242 on threads.
Aluminum locknut not remaining secured. Replace with steel locknut or use Loctite 242 on
threads.
Headset pressed races not fully pressed. Inspect, repress if necessary, and readjust.
SYMPTOM: Headset feels very sluggish, but not rough, when it is rotated and the adjustment is correct.
O-ring type seal out of position. Inspect, disassemble, and reassemble with seal in
place.
Seal mechanism inverted. Disassemble, inspect, and reassemble with seal cor-
rectly oriented.
Grease is dry and congealed. Disassemble, inspect, and overhaul.
11 – 33
11 – HEADSETS
HEADSET TROUBLESHOOTING (table 11-5 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Headset squeaks when rotated.
Grease is dry. Overhaul headset.
SYMPTOM: Creaking noises come from the headset area when the bike is being ridden.
Loose stem. Secure stem.
Loose handlebars. Secure handlebars.
Handlebars creaking internally at ferrule. Ignore or replace handlebars.
Loose pressed races. Inspect, disassemble, reinstall with Loctite 242, or
install a better fitting headset.
Aluminum pressed pieces in aluminum head tube, Reinstall with Loctite 222.
even if press fit tolerances are correct.
SYMPTOM: Looseness cannot be eliminated even by over-tightening the adjustment.
Loose pressed pieces. Replace with better-fitting headset, or reinstall
with Loctite RC680.
Locknut lip stopping against steering tube instead Inspect and install stack washer under locknut.
of stopping against the screwed race.
SYMPTOM: Headset makes a rumbling sound when riding over bumps.
Loose adjustment. Check and readjust.
Loose pressed pieces. Check and correct.
SYMPTOM: Headset locknut will not secure.
Stripped fork-column threads. Remove locknut and inspect. Replace fork if
threads are stripped.
Fork column has collapsed at washer key slot. Visually inspect inside of fork column for deforma-
tion, or test-fit stem into fork column.
11 – 34
12 – LOOSE-BALL HUBS
Locknut Locknut
Washer
Washer
Adjustable cone
Adjustable cone
Axle
Axle
Dustcap
Dustcap Ball bearings
Ball bearings Cup
Cup Hub shell
Hub shell
Cup
Ball bearing
Adjustable cone
Dustcap
Freehub body
Washer
Cup
Inner locknut
Ball bearing
Dustcap Spacer
Adjustable cone Locknut
Washer
Locknut
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING 12 – 3
THREADS 12 – 5
CONE INTERCHANGEABILITY 12 – 5
LOOSE-BALL-HUB SERVICE 12 – 6
COMPONENT REMOVAL AND PRE-DISASSEMBLY INSPECTION 12 – 7
DISASSEMBLY 12 – 8
INSPECTION 12 – 10
ASSEMBLY 12 – 11
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT 12 – 12
FINAL ADJUSTMENT 12 – 13
SHIMANO PARALLAX HUBS 12 – 17
SERVICING 10MM-AXLE PARALLAX HUBS 12 – 17
SERVICING 11MM-AXLE PARALLAX HUBS 12 – 17
CAMPAGNOLO LOOSE-BALL HUBS 12 – 18
VARIETIES 12 – 18
LOCKNUT-STYLE FREEHUBS 12 – 19
COMPRESSSION-RING-STYLE HUBS 12 – 21
LOOSE-BALL-HUB TROUBLESHOOTING 12 – 24
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER cover the hole through which the bearings are accessed.
In some cases, the dustcap attaches to the cone instead
Loose-ball hubs have a threaded axle, loose balls, cones
of the hub shell.
on the axle that are adjustable, and cups that are fixed inside
Freehub: A hub that includes the freewheeling mech-
the hub shell. A loose-ball hub can be a front hub, a rear
anism as part of the hub.
hub that accepts a thread-on freewheel, or a freehub (a rear
Freehub body: The portion of a freehub that is the
hub that has a freewheel integrated into the hub).
freewheeling mechanism. Some manufacturers use the
There are also cartridge-bearing hubs, with cartridge
term driver for the freehub body.
bearings that press into the hub shell. These are covered in a
separate chapter, CARTRIDGE-BEARING HUBS (page 13-1). Locknut
Some Shimano front hubs do not appear to have a Washer
threaded axle, so it might be assumed that they are not
traditional hubs. These hubs may be labeled “Parallax” and Adjustable cone
have unthreaded axle protrusions. Because these varieties
require different techniques, they are covered in their own Axle
section near the end of this chapter. Dustcap
Some Campagnolo front and rear hubs are completely
traditional loose-ball hubs and are covered by the basic
procedures in this chapter. However, some Campagnolo Ball bearings
hubs are unique designs for loose-ball hubs, and some are
Cup
cartridge-bearing designs. The unique Campagnolo loose-
ball hubs are covered in their own section in this chapter,
CAMPAGNOLO LOOSE-BALL HUBS. Campagnolo cartridge-
bearing hubs are covered in CARTRIDGE-BEARING HUBS Hub shell
(page 13-1).
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY
Axle: The shaft that goes through the hub about Freehub body
which the hub turns. Cup
Cone: A conical-shaped piece of metal that the bear- Ball bearing
Dustcap
ings roll on that is positioned inside the circle of balls. A Adjustable cone
cone may be a built-in feature on an axle, or it may thread Washer
onto an axle. Locknut
Cup: A surface that bearings roll on that is positioned
outside the circle of balls. A cup is usually a permanent
part of the hub shell. 12.1 Adjustable-cone freehub.
Cassette hub: A term that is misused in place of Freewheel: A set of gears on a freewheeling mech-
“freehub.” The cassette is the unitized set of gears that are anism that threads onto a rear hub.
found on a freehub, but not all freehubs have cassettes.
Driver: An alternate term for freehub body.
Dustcap: A piece of plastic, metal, or rubber that
threads or presses onto the outer end of the hub shell to
12 – 1
Locknut Seal: A rubber piece attached to the dustcap, cone, or

axle spacer that fills the gap between the axle and dustcap
Washer to reduce the entry of dirt.
Solid axle: An axle that has axle nuts threaded onto
Adjustable cone it that retain the wheel to the bicycle.
Axle
Dustcap
Ball bearings PREREQUISITES
Wheel removal and installation
Cup Before overhauling or adjusting a hub, the wheel
is removed from the bike. See the WHEEL REMOVAL,
Hub shell REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION chapter (page 18-6)
if unsure about wheel removal and installation.
Freewheel removal and installation
To overhaul or adjust a rear hub with a thread-on
freewheel, the freewheel must be removed. See the FREE-
HUB MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS chapter
(page 25-9) for freewheel removal. If not yet acquainted
with chapter 25, it may be unclear whether the hub has a
Cup thread-on freewheel or is a freehub. There is a simple way
Ball bearing to determine this. Examine the outer face of the gear set
Adjustable cone and look for splines in the hole the axle comes out of. If
Dustcap there are no splines, it is not a freehub. If there are splines,
Washer rotate the gears counterclockwise to the wheel. If the splines
Inner locknut rotate with the gears, the hub is a freehub. If the splines
Spacer remain stationary, the hub is not a freehub, and the gear set
Locknut is a freewheel that threads onto the hub.
12.2 Adjustable-cone rear hub for thread-on freewheel.

INDICATIONS
Freewheel mechanism: The mechanism in a rear There are several reasons to overhaul the hub(s) and
hub that enables drive forces to be applied to the wheel several reasons to adjust them. An overhaul should be
from the chain, but permits the hub to turn independently done as part of a regular maintenance cycle, the duration
from the gears when the rider stops pedaling. The free- of which will change depending on the type of riding, the
wheel mechanism may be integrated into the hub design, as amount of riding, and the type of equipment. Adjustments
should be done on the basis of need.
in the case of freehubs, or it may be part of the freewheel,
which is a component that is independent of the hub and Maintenance cycles
is attached to the hub by means of threading. If starting out with hub(s) known to be in good con-
Hub shell: The main structure of the hub. The hub dition with good-quality grease, they should be able to be
shell includes the housing for the bearings, a hub core, ridden thousands of miles without needing an overhaul.
and two hub flanges. If the equipment sees little wet-weather riding, then an
Locknut: A nut that threads onto an axle and tightens appropriate maintenance cycle would be 2,000–3,000 miles
against a cone to lock the position of the cone relative in most cases. If a lot of wet-condition riding is done, then
to the axle. the maintenance cycle might need to be as often as every
Quick-release (QR) axle: A hollow axle, so the 750-1,000 miles. Parts rust whether being ridden or not, so
quick-release mechanism can be installed through it to another factor is how long the bike may be sitting before it
retain the wheel to the bicycle. will be used again. For example, if ridden 200 miles in the
Race: The surface of a cup or cone on which ball rain in the fall then put away for four months of winter,
bearings roll. it would probably be a good idea to overhaul the hub(s)
before putting the bike away for the winter.
12 – 2
Other factors affecting the maintenance cycle are the
presence of a grease injection system and/or whether there
TOOL CHOICES
The design or brand of hub(s) will determine the
are seal mechanisms. Grease-injection systems do not eliminate
tools needed. Table 12-1 (page 12-4) covers tools for
the need for overhauling. They only increase the acceptable
traditional hubs only. This table covers all tools for the
time between overhauls; furthermore, they are only as
job. The preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred
good as the customer is consistent and thorough about
because of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility,
pumping in new grease. Seal mechanism hubs (loose-ball
and economy.
hubs with rubber seals between the cone and dustcaps)
do not have effective water-tight seals. Their effectiveness varies
with the brand and model. At best, they can lengthen the TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
acceptable time between overhauls. With seal mechanisms Overhauling a hub, including freewheel (or cog) removal
or grease-injection systems, the best policy is to initially and bearing adjustment, is a 30-45 minute job of moder-
overhaul the hub(s) on a normal-length maintenance cycle ate difficulty. Adjusting the hub alone (including freewheel
and see if the grease is found to be in good condition. If removal) is a 10-12 minute job of moderate difficulty.
so, then extend the maintenance cycle the next time.
Symptoms indicating need of overhaul COMPLICATIONS
What symptom would lead to feeling the hub(s)
should be overhauled? One is that when performing an Bent axles
adjustment, the looseness (free play) in the bearings cannot The only complication created by a bent axle is that
be eliminated without the bearing becoming excessively there is no point to adjusting the hub if the axle is bent. The
tight (does not turn smoothly). The lack of smoothness job description must be changed to overhauling the hub.
could be caused by dry grease, contaminated grease, or Broken axles
worn parts. Another symptom is that when removing the It is not unusual to have a job description of
wheel and rotating the axle, the end of the axle oscillates, adjusting a hub with a quick-release axle, and upon
indicating a bent axle (which should always be replaced). removing the wheel and quick release it is found that
Finally, there may be a broken axle, which may not be the axle is broken. In this case the job description must
obvious until the quick-release skewer is removed and the be changed to hub overhaul.
axle falls out in two pieces.
Worn-out cups
Symptoms indicating need of adjustment After disassembling the parts and cleaning them, the
The primary symptom experienced indicating the first thing that should be inspected for is pitted cups. Cups
hub(s) need adjustment is looseness in the bearings. are not replaceable and this would be the end of the job.
This can be detected by grasping the rim (with the wheel The only repair would be hub or wheel replacement.
mounted in the bike) and jerking it side to side while feeling
for a knocking sensation. Inspect for loose bearings and Cones not available
loose locknuts every 300–500 miles. The only way to check Many older hubs and inexpensive new ones have no
for a loose locknut is to put a tool on the locknut and see parts available. This becomes critical if cones are needed.
if it is secure. Another possible symptom indicating that There is a section of this chapter about cone interchange-
hubs need adjustment is that when loosening the quick- ability. If it is no help, then the hub with bad cones will
release lever 45° from its fully closed position, play cannot need to be replaced or ridden until it “dies.”
be detected at the rim. A properly adjusted quick-release hub Damaged dustcaps
has no play when installed to full security in the bike, but Dustcaps for many hubs are not an available
it does have play when the skewer is not clamping with replacement part. If they are damaged or lost it can be
full force. Non-quick-release hubs simply feel tight when the “end of the line” for the hub.
removed and the axle is rotated. A quick-release axle that
feels a little tight out of the bike is extremely tight when Mysterious play
installed in the bike. There are two things that can cause a mysterious play
One other case in which it is recommend to adjust in the bearings of the hub that will not go away no mat-
the hub(s) is on any new bike. Factory adjustments are ter how the adjustment is refined. A loose cup in the hub
not very reliable. Due to poor factory setup, hubs may be shell will cause this problem and so will a loose locknut
completely worn out after as little as 1,000 miles of use. on the side of the hub not being adjusted.
12 – 3
LOOSE-BALL-HUB TOOLS (table 12-1)

Campagnolo P Axle vise w/ smooth 9 & 10mm holes for holding axle during hub disassembly
Hozan C354 Axle vise w/ threaded holes for holding axle during hub disassembly, grips very securely
Park AV-1 Axle vise w/ smooth 9 & 10mm holes for holding axle during hub disassembly
Park AV-3 Axle vise w/ smooth 9, 10, & 14mm holes for holding axle during hub disassembly
Stein HV-1 Hub vise for holding hub during adjustment
United AX Axle vise w/ smooth 9 & 10mm holes for holding axle during hub disassembly
United AX 2 Axle vise w/ smooth 1/2" & 14mm holes for holding axle during hub disassembly
Bicycle Research TC/S Thread chaser set for numerous thread descriptions of axles with inch pitch
Campagnolo 1170004 Dustcap puller for Campagnolo C-Record hubs
Double-ended cone wrenches Regardless of brand, double-ended cone wrenches are not recommended due to
(all brands) poor leverage and hand protection
Park SCW-13 through SCW-20 Sizes 13–20mm, with good leverage and hand cushioning, thin design fits all cones
Pedro‘s 6461013 – 6461019 Sizes 13–19mm, good leverage and hand cushioning
X-Axis Nut Grabber Sizes 13–19mm, good leverage and hand cushioning
Zog‘s CNR-1300 – CNR-1800 Sizes 13–18mm, good leverage and hand cushioning
LOOSE-BALL-HUB AXLE THREADS (table 12-2)

Pitch Approximate Approximate Nominal Typical occurrences
axle O.D. nut or cone I.D. measurement
(thread type1)
1mm 8.70–8.90mm 7.80–8.10mm 9mm × 1mm QR axle front hubs on most road and mountain bikes
(Metric/ISO) from Europe and Asia; front hub solid axles2 on SunTour/
Specialized and Shimano (modern) hubs
1mm 9.70–9.90mm 8.80–9.10mm 10mm × 1mm QR axle rear hubs on most road and mountain bikes
(Metric/ISO) from Europe and Asia; rear hub solid axles2 on SunTour/
Specialized and Shimano (modern) hubs
26tpi 7.70–7.90mm 6.80–7.10mm 5/16" × 26tpi3 Solid axle2 front hubs on most European road bikes (not
(BSC) Campagnolo) and from Asia (includes older Shimano).
26tpi 8.70–8.90mm 7.80–8.10mm 9mm × 26tpi Campagnolo (and other Italian brands) and some Joy Tech
(Italian) (Jou Yu) front QR axles
26tpi 9.30–9.50mm 8.40–8.70mm 3/8" × 26tpi4 Solid axle2 rear hubs on most European road bikes and those
(BSC) from Asia (includes older Shimano); occasional older solid
axle front MTB hubs (usually w/ flats on the axle ends)
26tpi 9.70–9.90mm 8.80–9.10mm 10mm × 26tpi Campagnolo (and other Italian brands) and some Joy Tech
(Italian) (Jou Yu) rear QR axles
24tpi 7.70–7.90mm 6.80–7.10mm 5/16" × 24tpi Solid axle2 front hubs from American hub manufacturers
(BSC) found on many bikes from department stores
24tpi 9.30–9.50mm 8.40–8.70mm 3/8" × 24tpi4 Solid axle2 rear hubs on bikes with a coaster brake or three-
(BSC) speed-type hub
1
The listed thread types are only the ones that occur commonly. Other thread types exist and should be identified by
measuring the diameter and pitch.
2
Solid axles are those that use axle nuts to hold the wheel to the frame/fork.
3
The 5/16" diameter is sometimes called 8mm. This is incorrect because the resulting mixed-unit diameter and pitch
end up sounding like an Italian thread when it is, in fact, a BSC thread.
4
The 3/8" diameter is sometimes called 9.5mm. This is incorrect because the resulting mixed-unit diameter and pitch
end up sounding like an Italian thread when it is, in fact, a BSC thread.
12 – 4
Unusual bearing sizes Suzue hubs are knockoffs of some older

Almost all hubs use 3/16" balls in the front hub and Shimano hubs, so there is often compatibility
1/4" in the rear. The consistency of this is so great that it between Suzue and Shimano cones.
lulls mechanics into thinking that all hubs use these sizes. Atom, Nor mandy, Maillard, and some
Consequently on occasion a wrong size gets used and the “Schwinn Approved” hubs are all different
hub either adjusts or wears poorly. Campagnolo hubs are names that appear on what are essentially the
the most likely cause of trouble with their frequent use of same hub, so cones of one type can often
7/32" balls, which are barely distinguishable from 3/16". be used on a hub with one of the other
names. Sachs has bought the Maillard com-
pany and sometimes the older parts will be
THREADS called Sachs when they fit the older Maillard,
Axle threads come in several standards. Measure pitch Normandy, and Atom hubs.
and diameter and make sure a replacement axle matches. “Schwinn Approved” has appeared mostly on
This is usually not an issue unless trying to upgrade a Maillard products (early seventies through
non-quick-release axle to a quick-release axle, or for Joy the mid-seventies), but during the same time
Tech (Jou Yu) or Campagnolo brand hubs, which have period “Schwinn Approved” appeared on
relatively unique threads. See table 12-2 (page 12-4) for Sanshin and Shimano products on occasion.
axle-thread information. Sanshin, Sunshine, and SunTour are different
brand names that appear on hubs made by the
CONE INTERCHANGEABILITY Sanshin company, so compatibility often exists
between hubs with these brand names.
In every possible case, replace a worn cone with an
Jou Yu and Joy Tech are two names for the
identical cone. There will be many times when this will
same company.
not be possible so it becomes necessary to know how to
Wald company makes a number of replacement
pick a correct substitute cone. For this there are some
axle sets that fit a variety of historical and
general guidelines and testing procedures that can be used
current American-made front hubs that are
to determine compatibility.
found on department-store bikes and older
These general guidelines are based on certain ten-
fat-tire one-speeds. These brands include
dencies that are common to certain brands.
Wald, Weco, Union, Schwinn, Ross, New
Shimano has made more models of hubs over the
Departure, Excel, and Enlite.
years than anyone could possibly keep track of.
The test to determine cone compatibility has
Many of these models are externally different
a number of steps that originally test for a likely
only. It is quite common that the cones in one
replacement cone, and then empirically test for com-
model are identical to another model. Even
patibility. See figures 12.3, 12.4, 12.5, 12.6, 12.7, and
when not identical, the cones may differ only
12.8 (page 12-6).
in ways such as quality, finish, design of seal, or
Hold the old cone and possible substitute
overall length. If seal differences exist, then the
together small end to small end.
quality of the seal may be compromised but not
Check whether the small-end diameters
the functionality of the hub. If only a length dif-
match.
ference exists, it can often be made up for with a
Check whether the curves of the two cones
spacer change. The Shimano Parts Dealer Parts
appear symmetrical.
Catalog has excellent descriptive information
Check whether the overall cone length of
about cones. If the dimensions for two different
the possible replacement is equal or longer
cones match, they are usually interchangeable
(replacement can’t be shorter).
with few critical complications. Wheels Mfg.
Check whether replacement’s overall diameter
makes duplicates of certain Shimano cones.
is equal to or less than original (replacement
Some distributors (including United Bicycle
diameter cannot be larger unless hole in
Parts and Quality Bicycle Products) have created
dustcap can be enlarged).
compatibility charts or systems to make it easier
to determine which Shimano cone substitutes
for another Shimano cone.
12 – 5
Test-mate the replacement cone against the balls in
place in the hub cup and see if the grease print
on the cone indicates that the balls will be rolling
on the middle of the cone race (balls cannot roll
on either end of the cone race).
If everything is acceptable except that the thread
descriptions don’t match, replace the axle and
hardware as well. 12.7 Although the small-end diameters match and the
curves of the races match, the right cone is probably an
unsuitable replacement for the left cone because of its
larger overall diameter. Due to the diameter difference,
the right cone is unlikely to fit in the hole in the dustcap.
12.3 The right cone is possibly a suitable replacement

for the left cone because the small-end diameters match
and the curves of the races match.
12.8 The grease prints in the middle of the race on

this cone indicate that the ball bearings will contact the
correct area on the race.
When a compatible cone cannot be found, there

is one additional thing to try short of running the hub
with worn-out cones or replacing the hub or wheel. If
12.4 Although the curves of the races match, the right a substitute cone was found that failed the grease print
cone is not likely to be a suitable replacement for the left test because the balls were contacting too high or low on
cone because the small-end diameters do not match. the cone race, then it may still be usable by changing the
ball-bearing size.
Smaller balls will allow the cone to insert further so
the contact will be further from the small end of the cone
(watch for the wrench flats ending up below the dustcap
face). Larger balls will position the cone further out so
the contact will be closer to the small end of the cone
race. Using smaller balls may reduce the wear life, but
12.5 Although the small-end diameters match, the right the hub has no wear life left without replacing the worn
cone is not likely to be a suitable replacement for the left
cone because the curves of the races do not match. cones, so anything that works is a meaningful gain. When
the ball-bearing size changes so will the quantity. Just put
in the maximum number of balls that will fit in the cup
without jamming.
For this purpose it is useful to have some odd-size
balls on hand, such as 11/64", 7/32", 15/64", and 17/
64". These ball sizes (except 7/32"—used in Campagnolo
hubs) are likely to be available only by special order from
12.6 Although the small-end diameters match and the larger industrial bearing-supply houses.
curves of the races match, the right cone is probably
an unsuitable replacement for the left cone because of
its shorter overall length. Due to the length difference,
the cone wrench flats are likely to end up inaccessible
(below the face of the dustcap).
LOOSE-BALL-HUB SERVICE
NOTE: If just adjusting hub and not overhaul-
ing it, do steps 1–7, then skip to PRELIMINARY
ADJUSTMENT just after step 57.
12 – 6
COMPONENT REMOVAL & right-side protrusion, and subtract half the thickness dif-
ference from the average axle protrusion for the correct
PRE-DISASSEMBLY INSPECTION left-side protrusion.
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer (if any) When measuring the axle protrusion, use the depth
from hub. gauge of a caliper and measure from the high point on the
2. [ ] Place wheel back in dropouts. face of the locknut to the end of the axle. Some axles have
a recess in their face. Do not measure down into any recess.
Caliper Depth gauge
Dropout
Locknut
Protruding axle (cutaway)
Correct
(unacceptable)
Incorrect
12.9 It is unacceptable for the quick-release axle to 12.10 Measuring the axle protrusion.
protrude beyond the face of the dropout.
3. [ ] Observe wheel in bike and determine whether Determine correct axle protrusion
QR axles protrude beyond dropout faces. 8. [ ] Right-side axle protrusion: _________mm
4. [ ] If QR axles protrude, measure dropout thick- 9. [ ] Left-side axle protrusion: +_________mm
ness. This is maximum axle protrusion. 10. [ ] Total axle protrusion is: =_________mm
Maximum axle protrusion is: _________mm. ÷2
5. [ ] Rotate axle and check for oscillation at ends 11. [ ] AVG. AXLE PROTRUSION =_________mm
that indicates bends.
6. [ ] Rotate axle and feel for severe grittiness Measure over-locknut width
that indicates worn out parts. In the next step, measure the overall width from the
Rear hubs with thread-on freewheels require free- left locknut to the right locknut. This measurement will be
wheel removal for hub adjustment or overhaul. It is needed if parts are replaced with non-exact replacements.
recommended, but not required, to remove freehub cogs If some sort of substitute part that is not the same effec-
when overhauling a freehub, but there is no reason to tive width as the original is used, it could affect the fit of
remove the cogs to adjust a freehub bearing. the wheel to the frame or fork. By knowing how much
7. [ ] Remove freewheel (if any, for overhaul or the final width differs from the original width, it will be
adjustment) or freehub cogs (for overhaul known how many washers to add or subtract on the side
only, not adjustment). of the hub that has the substitute part.
In the next step, determine the correct axle protrusion Over-locknut width
(the distance the end of the axle protrudes beyond the face
of the locknut that is found just inside of the dropout). In
most cases, the axle protrusion should be equal on both
sides. One rare exception is when one dropout is thicker
than the other (in which case the axle protrusions should
differ by the amount the dropout thickness differs). Certain
inexpensive bikes have a plate of metal that the derailleur
attaches to, which bolts onto the outer face of the right-
rear dropout. This is called a bolt-on derailleur hanger. The 12.11 Measure the over-locknut width.
bolt-on derailleur hanger is part of the dropout, so in this
12. [ ] Measure over-locknut width.
case consider the right dropout to be thicker than the left
OVER-LOCKNUT WIDTH IS: _________mm.
dropout by the thickness of the bolt-on hanger. NOTE: Front hubs, go to step 17.
In the next steps, measure the two axle protrusions Steps #13 through #16 apply to rear hubs only. The
and average them to determine the correct axle protrusion. purpose of these steps is to get a measurement that cor-
If the right-rear dropout is thicker, add half the difference responds to the distance the freewheel or freehub cogs sit
in thickness to the average axle protrusion for the correct from the dropout. This distance must be maintained when
12 – 7
overhauling the hub or when the rear derailleur might need
adjustment or the freewheel may not even have enough room
DISASSEMBLY
Disassembling the first end of the axle is a lot easier
to be re-installed. The measurement will not be needed unless
if the axle is not free to turn. The ideal way to do this is
right-side parts are replaced with non-identical parts, or if
to have the end of the axle that is not being disassembled
left-side and right-side parts get mixed up.
NOTE: Freehubs, go to step 16.
held in a bench vise. When securing the axle in a vise, it is
easy to damage either the axle or the locknut. If the axle
Measure and calculate freewheel space is a not-quick-release type, there is enough axle to grasp
A B securely with the axle directly in “soft jaws.” Soft jaws are
inserts made of aluminum, copper, plastic, or wood that
cover the face of the vise jaws. All of these materials are
softer than the axle threads so the axle threads will not be
damaged. Quick-release axles do not protrude far enough
to get a good grip with soft jaws, which might lead to
clamping the vise tighter, which could crush the hollow
quick-release axle. For this reason, a special axle vise is
required for use with quick-release axles. Grasping the axle
by the locknut can lead to damage of the locknut.
Loosen
Hold stationary
12.12 Determine freewheel space by adding mea-
with cone wrench
surement A to measurement B.
13. [ ] Freewheel shoulder to end of shell:

________mm
14. [ ] End of shell to locknut face: +________mm
15. [ ] FREEWHEEL SPACE =________mm
(Skip to step 17.)
Measure and calculate freehub space
B A
Hozan axle vise
(secured in bench vise)
12.14 With the hub secured in a Hozan axle vise use

a cone wrench to hold the cone while breaking loose
the locknut.
17. [ ] Clamp right end of QR axle in axle vise or

right end of solid axle in soft jaws.
NOTE: Some hubs have covers (usually rubber, but
12.13 Determine freehub space by adding measure- possibly plastic or metal) that hide the cone
ment A to measurement B.
and possibly the locknuts. Remove covers
before proceeding.
16.[ ] For freehubs, measure from end of freehub
body (where cogs came off) to locknut face. In the next step, a cone wrench is used to hold the
Add this to measurement from right flange cone. Front cones usually are fit by 13mm wrenches, and
to outer end of freehub body to calculate rear cones by 14mm or 15mm wrenches. However, these
freehub space. are not standards. Avoid using the wrong wrench size by
Freehub body to nut face: __________mm always trying the smallest one first; then if it doesn’t fit,
Body flange to outboard end try progressively larger sizes.
of freehub body +__________mm
FREEHUB SPACE =__________mm
12 – 8
18. [ ] Hold left cone stationary with cone wrench for a bent axle, damaged threads, replacing the cone if
while breaking loose left locknut with damaged, and resetting the right-side axle protrusion
adjustable wrench. (Use cone wrench on if necessary. The tendency is to skip these steps if the
locknut only if locknut has round face.) cone is not in need of replacement, but some important
There are few standards about the number and problems could be missed, especially if this is the first
sequences of parts on the end of the axle. Furthermore, time overhauling this hub.
keeping left-side and right-side rear-axle parts separate is If the hub is a rear hub with a thread-on freewheel, a
critical on rear hubs (front hubs usually are symmetrical). variety of parts configurations might be found in the next
For this reason, the next step suggests transferring parts step. These will break down into one of two fundamental
directly from the axle to a bundling tie (wire or plastic categories: axle sets with a single locknut on the right and
bread-bag ties work). Some parts, particularly outer lock- axle sets with a double locknut on the right. Some of the
nuts, have a certain way they need to face, so it is just as variations might be whether there is a big spacer built into
important to maintain the specific orientation of each part the outer locknut of a double-locknut design and whether
as it comes off the axle as it is to maintain the order. there are single or multiple spacers.
In these next steps, use two ties to bundle the right-side
parts. This will enable keeping track of the left-side (first
off, single tie) and right-side (second off, two-ties) parts.
21. [ ] Reverse axle in axle vise or soft jaws.
22. [ ] Hold cone (or lower locknut of double-
locknut hub) stationary with cone wrench
while breaking loose locknut with adjustable
wrench. (Use cone wrench on locknut only if
locknut is round.)
12.15 Transfer the parts one-by-one from the end of 23. [ ] Double-locknut hub only: Hold cone sta-
the axle to a bundling tie to maintain the correct order
tionary while breaking loose lower locknut.
and orientation.
24. [ ] Thread right-end parts off axle and onto two
19. [ ] Thread left-end parts off axle and onto bun- bundling ties, while maintaining order and
dling tie (maintaining order and orientation). orientation.
20. [ ] Lift hub off axle, cupping hand below hub to Rubber seals on dustcaps or cones rotate relative to
catch ball bearings. the part to which they are attached. Seal effectiveness
can be improved and seal drag reduced by lubricating
between the seal and what it is attached to. Seals will be
removed at this time to enable greasing later. Seals can
possibly be re-installed backward, so note their orienta-
tion if removing them from a dustcap, or simply leave
them on the left-side and right-side parts bundles if
removing them from a cone.
25. [ ] Remove rubber seals (if any) from dustcaps
(note orientation) or cones (leave seals on
bundles).
Next, remove the ball bearings. This is a critical step
because bearing sizes and quantities are not universal. For
front hubs, ten 3/16" balls per side is most common. The
most likely exception that will not be obvious is that some
older Campagnolo hubs use slightly oversize 7/32" balls.
For rear hubs, the most common quantity and size is nine
1/4" balls per side. The quantity of balls for the right
side and left side of any hub is almost always universally
12.16 Cup a hand under the hub with the axle equal, so if eleven are counted on the right and nine on
between two fingers while lifting off the hub in order to
the left, it is certain that a ball dropped from one side to
catch any ball bearings that fall out.
the other and that ten per side is the correct amount. On
Steps #21 through #24 are about removing the the other hand if the quantity per side differs by one, it is
right-side axle parts. Removing these enables checking extremely possible that one ball was lost.
12 – 9
26. [ ] Remove ball bearings one side at a time, a ball point pen. If it snags on anything, the cup is shot
determine quantity and size per side, and and the hub should be replaced.
record observations here:
Quantity: Left ______ Right ______
Size: Left ______ Right ______
Dustcap removal is next. It is optional, with removal
only making cleaning and inspection easier. That dustcap
removal is optional is important, because with most hubs
it is easy to bend or break the dustcap when attempting to
remove it. This happens most often with some Shimano
freehubs. Never use a screwdriver or similar metal bar to
pry out a dustcap. Lever gently in one location, then move
a few degrees and lever a little more, then move again and
lever a little more. Continue like this until the dustcap eases 12.17 Inspect the cup for pits with the tip of a ball
out. If it will not come out easily, do not remove it. point pen.
27. [ ] Pry dustcaps out unless damage is likely.
Were dustcaps very loose? 32. [ ] Trace ball path in cups with a ball point pen
Yes No (circle one) to check for pits.
The next step only applies to rear freehubs. Tech- Good? Bad? (circle one)
niques for freehub-body removal are not covered here, but If the cups were worn out, the cones are virtually
they are covered as part of the FREEHUB MECHANISMS certain to be. If not, be sure to check the cones carefully
AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS chapter (page 25-18). so that a worn-out one will not damage a cup, leading to
28. [ ] Freehubs only: Remove freehub body. a hub replacement. Cones wear out by developing pits
29. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of hub (galling). Find the shiny wear line left by the balls on the
shell. conical portion of the cone. Trace this wear line with the
tip of a ball point pen to check for pits.
INSPECTION
Hub-shell damage in regard to the bearings is rare.
Cracks may appear on some inexpensive steel hubs on the
back side of the bearing area when the bearings become
extremely over-tight. Some inexpensive hub shells made of
multiple parts joined together may fail at the joints. The evi-
dence of this type of failure is grease oozing out a seam in
the hub shell. This external inspection is done first because
any failure is non-repairable and the job is over.
30. [ ] Inspect outside of hub shell for damage. 12.18 Inspect the cone for pits with the tip of a ball
point pen.
Good? Bad? (circle one)
The bearing cups are supposed to be permanently
When inspecting the cone for pits, other symptoms
pressed into the hub shell. Occasionally they work loose. If
with the wear line might be detected. If the wear line
not inspected for, this might cause substantial frustration
wanders from high on the cone race to low on the cone
when trying to eliminate play when making the adjust-
race, the cone may still be usable, but the wear pattern
ment. Firmly press a finger into a cup and try to force it
indicates a probable bent axle. If the wear pattern is at the
to rotate. If it does rotate, it must be fixed by dripping
top or bottom of the cone race, it indicates that the cone
Loctite 290 behind the cup.
is the wrong one for that particular hub or that the wrong
31. [ ] Inspect pressed in cups for looseness. See
if they rotate or jiggle. size bearings are in use. An unusual-looking wear pattern
Good? Bad? (circle one) that does not indicate a particular problem is when the
By design, hub cups wear out long after the cones wear line is fat halfway around the cone and thin on the
have worn out. This is good because the cups cannot be other half. This happens because the cone does not rotate
replaced. When a cup wears out, a new hub is needed. during use so all the load is experienced on the bottom
Check for cup wear by looking in the cups for the wear half. This pattern is not seen all the time because in many
line left by the balls. Trace this wear line with the tip of cases the rear wheel is in and out often, and the axle and
12 – 10
cones end up rotated into different positions with each quick-release axles) or Bicycle Research thread chaser
installation of the wheel. (inch-pitch solid axles). Threads stripped from an over-
tightened locknut cannot be repaired. Replace the axle.
35. [ ] Inspect axle for damaged threads.
Some axles have slots along their length. A key on the
lock washer engages the slot. The only function of the key
is to enable the factory to adjust the hub without a cone
wrench. However, the washer often rotates around the
12.19 A wear line that is low on the cone race at one axle and the key damages the threads as well as itself. If a
point and high on the cone race at another point indi- key is damaged, the washer is sure to rotate again. File out
cates the axle is bent.
the damaged key or replace the washer with an unkeyed
one. If installing a replacement axle without a slot, get rid
of the keys on the inside of the washers.
36. [ ] Inspect keyed lock washers for damaged
keys. Good? Bad? (circle one)
Inspect the locknuts for damage, usually resulting
from being over-tightened or from poor wrench fit or use.
Locknuts have to match the original thread and thickness.
12.20 A wear line that is at the top of the cone race If the new locknut has a different thickness, make up the
(left cone) or bottom of the cone race (right cone) indi- difference by adding or subtracting washers.
cates that the cone is the wrong one for the hub or that 37. [ ] Inspect locknuts for damaged threads,
the balls are the wrong size.
cracks, warpage, and rounded off flats.
Inspect the dustcaps for looseness and damage.
If they were loose (determined during removal), then
re-install them with Loctite 242. If a dustcap is bent,
try to straighten it out. It is only critical if the dustcap
is deformed to the point that it rubs on a part of the
axle set that the dustcap overlaps.
12.21 When the wear pattern is fatter on half the A simple technique for straightening a bent dustcap
cone race it indicates that the axle has been in the same is to put the dustcap on the bench face down and insert a
position for most of the life of the hub; no particular socket that is a close fit inside the dustcap and tap on the
problem is indicated.
dustcap with a soft mallet.
33. [ ] Trace ball path on cones with a ball point 38. [ ] Inspect dustcaps for looseness (done in step
pen to check for pits and inspect for other 27) and damage. Good? Bad? (circle one)
wear problems. Good? Bad? (circle one)
Next, inspect the axle for bends. Roll the axle on a flat,
smooth surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass ASSEMBLY
display case. Look under the axle as it rolls for a humping If installing a new axle, the length does not have to
up and down that indicates it is bent. A bent axle is an match exactly. For quick-release axles, the minimum axle
axle in the process of breaking, and it should be replaced, protrusion per side should be no less than one-half the
not straightened. A bent axle can be caused by misaligned dropout thickness, and the maximum should be no more
dropouts. Axles can also bend from severe impact to the than the dropout thickness. For non-quick-release axles,
wheel or high pedaling loads. the minimum length should be no less than the sum of
34. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. the dropout thickness, plus the thickness of the washers
Good? Bad? (circle one) under the axle nuts, plus the thickness of the axle nuts.
Threads can be damaged on the axle from getting Calculate new axle protrusion
nicked, from a keyed lock washer rotating around the NOTE: If not replacing axle with new one of dif-
axle, or from excess torque on a locknut, which results in ferent length, go to step 42.
stripped threads. If the threads are nicked from impact 39. [ ] Repeat original average axle
against something or damaged by a rotated lock washer, protrusion from step 11 here: _________mm
they can be repaired with the thread file (metric-pitch
12 – 11
40. [ ] Measure difference between axles and divide
by two.
Difference is: ________mm
÷2
1/2 axle difference =________mm
41. [ ] If new axle is shorter, subtract difference (or
if longer, add) from/to old protrusion.
Old protrusion (step 39) ________mm
1/2 axle difference (step 40) ±________mm
New protrusion is: =________mm
Parts replacement
42. [ ] Replace bad parts on bundles with good
parts.
Preparation of hub shell for assembly
If the freehub body has been removed in step #28,
it is time to replace it. Be sure it is dry and oiled inside. 12.22 Transferring the parts from the bundling tie to
the axle.
Techniques for cleaning, drying, oiling, and installation
are all covered in the freewheel chapter. 49. [ ] Transfer all parts from right-side bundle (two
43. [ ] Install freehub body if it was removed in ties) to axle.
step 28. 50. [ ] Position top locknut so axle protrusion
Fill both cups generously with grease and put the balls equals average axle protrusion plus .2mm.
into the cups. If unsure of the ball quantity, fill the cups 51. [ ] Hold top locknut stationary with wrench
with balls without forcing any in. and tighten parts below it snugly up against
The most important thing about dustcap installation locknut.
is to make sure that they end up level rather than tipped. 52. [ ] Measure axle protrusion, then adjust pro-
Tap the dustcap in with a rubber or plastic mallet. Do the trusion if necessary.
best possible to level the dustcap at this point, and then 53. [ ] Loosen axle slightly in axle vise (or vise) so
when the hub is assembled, give the wheel a spin and that axle is free to turn.
54. [ ] Hold cone with cone wrench and torque
check whether the dustcaps wobble as they spin. Straighten
locknut to 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
them as necessary.
44. [ ] Pack grease and balls in one side of hub, Install axle in hub
then install dustcap. 55. [ ] Turn axle over in axle vise (or vise).
45. [ ] Pack grease and balls in other side of hub, 56. [ ] Drop hub (right-side down) onto axle.
then install dustcap. 57. [ ] Transfer left-side parts bundle to axle.
46. [ ] Grease seals, if any, and install on dustcaps
or cones.
Set right-side axle protrusion
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: If just adjusting a front hub or thread-on-
47. [ ] Grease axle threads. freewheel rear hub:
48. [ ] Install axle in axle vise or soft jaws with 1. Do steps 1–7 (page 12-7).
right end up. (Right end is longer-threaded 2. Break loose left-side locknut from cone by
end if right parts bundle is bigger bundle or holding cone stationary and turning locknut
shorter-threaded end if right parts bundle is counterclockwise.
smaller bundle.) 3. Hold right cone with cone wrench and torque
When disassembling the axle set, the assumption is locknut to 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
that all the parts are in the correct orientation. If these NOTE: If just adjusting (not overhauling) a freehub:
parts were not correctly oriented, or if the bundle came 1. Back cone off enough to push right side of
apart during cleaning and the order and orientation are axle out far enough to access right-side cone.
uncertain, make sure the outer locknuts go on correctly. If 2. Secure right-side cone and locknut together
one side of the locknut is flat and smooth and the other to 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
3. Place right side of axle in axle vise/soft jaws.
side is not, the non-smooth side faces out, so as to grip
the inside face of the dropout and hold the wheel more
securely in the bike.
12 – 12
59. [ ] Hold cone stationary and tighten locknut to
it to 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
Torque wrench (tighten)
2– Place tools on
left end of axle
Cone wrench (hold stationary)
6– Tighten
4–
3– 90º
Clockwise
(to gentle
contact)
5– Hold
Hozan axle vise (in bench vise) 1– Place in vise
12.23 Preparing a hub for adjustment. 12.24 Preliminary setting of the cone.
The next few steps are preliminary to adjusting the 60. [ ] Jerk rim up and down and check for obvi-
hub. The left-side parts will be put in a position close ous (even extreme) knocking. If adjustment
to their final position, but deliberately at a very loose adjust- is not adequately loose, go back to step 58
and start even looser.
ment. This prepares the hub for adjustment because the
adjustment procedure is based on starting too loose and
eliminating the looseness. A very high degree of initial
looseness is required for quick-release hubs because the
axle is compressed by the load of the closed quick release,
which will take up some of the excess play before the
adjustment is even started.
The adjustment procedure recommends using cal-
ibration stickers (BBI Hub Dial stickers). The stickers
will be put on the hub to calibrate the adjustment. The 12.25 Jerk up and down on the rim to check for
surfaces must be grease-free for the stickers to stick well, obvious knocking that indicates that the adjustment is
loose enough.
particularly on the cone. Even if not using the stickers, it
will be necessary to mark the hub in some way, so clean- 61. [ ] If non-matching right-side hub parts were
ing is still required. installed, check freewheel/freehub space
The adjustment procedure (page 12-15) is very dif- from steps 15 or 16 and adjust if necessary.
ferent from the way most mechanics adjust hubs. The 62. [ ] If non-matching hub parts were installed,
procedure uses an adjustment-calibration sticker (a BBI compare to over-locknut width in step 12
product), but a piece of masking tape that you mark and adjust if necessary.
yourself can be used as an alternative to the sticker. This
approach (with sticker or tape) may seem awkward at first,
but students at BBI who were very experienced with hub
FINAL ADJUSTMENT
Adjusting a hub can be challenging. The first challenge
adjustment prior to arriving at BBI endorse this approach
of adjusting a hub is that the cone needs to be adjusted
wholeheartedly.
relative to the axle. The axle wants to turn unless fixed
If parts were replaced, or right and left parts were
somehow. This could be done in the vise, but there is
mixed together, it is time to check the over-locknut width
another challenge in that the quick-release axle in the bike
and freewheel-space/freehub-space measurements against
is compressed compared to its length out of the bike. If a
the originals.
perfect adjustment of a quick-release axle out of the bike
58. [ ] Turn cone clockwise until it very gently con-
tacts bearings, then counterclockwise a full were made, it would be over-tight in the bike and with
90° (1/4 turn). no easy way to tell. The wheel can’t be mounted inside the
12 – 13
dropouts to make the adjustment because then there is Nut
load on both outer locknuts and they can’t be turned. Yet
Skewer
one more challenge is to keep track of the adjustments.
The cone position must be compared to where it was rela-
tive to the axle; however, the axle is so small that there is no
way to mark it to track the progress of the adjustment.
The following adjustment procedure solves all these
problems. It pre-loads the axle so that the in-the-bike adjust-
ment will not be tighter than when performing the adjust-
Stein HV-1 hub vise
ment. It fixes the axle from rotating, and by also fixing the
hub from rotating, this technique allows tracking the cone Bench vise
position relative to the hub rather than relative to the axle. Quick release
This adjustment procedure assumes a Stein HV-1
hub axle vise is being used to hold the wheel stationary.
Although the HV-1 is an inexpensive and excellent tool,
as an alternative the wheel can simply be mounted to the 12.26 The hub is mounted in the Stein HV-1 vise (in
outside of a rear dropout on a bike. Alternatively, cut a few bench vise jaws) using a 5 × .8mm nut on the end of
inches of chain stay and a rear dropout out of a trashed the quick-release skewer.
frame to clamp in the vise to substitute for the HV-1.
66. [ ] Put nut (no spring) on skewer.
Non-quick-release hub-adjustment The quick-release lever must be clamped with the
preparation same force during the adjustment as it is during normal
NOTE: For quick-release axles, go to step 64. wheel installation for the adjustment to be accurate. The
63. [ ] Clamp Stein HV-1 in vise and use axle nut common tendency is to not secure the lever tight enough.
to bolt right end of axle into hole of HV-1 For a standard quick-release mechanism, when it is prop-
securely (about 240in-lbs). erly set, force is required to close the lever, starting when
Quick-release hub-adjustment preparation the lever is parallel to the axle and the lever must be closed
NOTE: For non-quick-release axles, go to step 69. down all the way until it is perpendicular to the axle. Many
64. [ ] Put Stein HV-1 in vise securely. quick-release levers are curved; when the lever is curved,
65. [ ] Insert QR skewer through bottom of HV-1 the straight portion at the base of the lever is the only part
and into right end of axle (no springs). to be concerned with regarding the starting and ending
In the next step, a nut (standard 5mm × .8mm or positions. See figure 12.27. This setting is not ideal for all
quick-release adjusting nut) is put on the end of the skewer quick-release mechanisms. See the WHEEL INSTALLATION
so that it will bear against the end of the axle when the chapter (page 18-14) for a method for determining the
skewer is secured. The nut then transfers the load though optimum setting for the quick-release mechanism.
the axle, simultaneously securing the axle from rotation 67. [ ] With base of quick-release lever parallel to
and compressing the axle in the same fashion that it will be axle, secure nut tight with fingers.
when the wheel is installed in the bike. When the wheel is
Finger-tight
mounted normally in the bike, the force is applied through
the dropout to the outer locknut and then to the axle.
Using a 5mm × .8mm nut instead of the quick-release
adjusting nut has some advantages. Sometimes the large
diameter of the quick-release adjusting nut interferes with an Parallel
open-end or adjustable wrench being used on the locknut. to axle 1 2
The regular nut allows use of any wrench, including a deep B
socket (so that a ratchet drive or torque wrench can be used
to secure the adjustment). Some older French skewers and A 90º
some American skewers are not compatible with a 5mm nut,
so use the quick-release adjusting nut in these cases. 12.27 Adjust the quick-release lever so force to close
begins at A and close the lever until it matches position B.
12 – 14
68. [ ] Fully open and close lever, checking for who were very experienced with hub adjustment prior to
whether clamping force begins at point base arriving at BBI endorse this approach wholeheartedly.
of lever is parallel with axle (if not, change
nut setting), then close quick-release lever BARNETT Peel, then cut on dotted lines.
until base of lever is perpendicular to axle. B I C YC LE
INSTITUTE
-1 0 +1 +2
69. [ ] Jiggle rim to check hub for looseness. If -3 -2 +3
0 -2 -4 +4
knock is not obvious, set left cone and +2 -5 +5
+4 -4 HUB
locknut to 30º more counterclockwise posi- +6
This one for
-6 DIAL
-6 This one for +6
dustcaps fixed -7 dustcaps fixed +7
tion and check again (repeat as necessary). to cone. to hubshell.
NOTE: For reference, 30º is change of one

hour on clock face. 12.30 A BBI Hub Dial sticker.
If the hub has a dustcap that rotates with the hub

shell, the cone needs to be marked with a scribe between
the wrench flats, or use one edge of one of the wrench
flats as the cone mark.
If the hub has a dustcap that remains stationary as the
hub shell rotates, use a fine-tip felt marker to put a mark on
the hub shell right at the edge of the stationary dustcap.
72. [ ] Check whether dustcap rotates with hub
12.28 With a finger on the end of the axle to feel for shell and mark cone if dustcap rotates or
knocking, jerk up and down on the rim. hub shell if dustcap is stationary.
If the hub has a dustcap that rotates with the hub,
use the BBI Hub Dial sticker that has numbers outside
Adjustment Procedure of the dial marks. If the hub has a dustcap that remains
70. [ ] Clean left dustcap and left cone thoroughly
(with acetone or alcohol). stationary as the hub rotates, use the BBI Hub Dial sticker
Next, the rim needs to be fixed from turning so the that has numbers on top of the dial marks.
cone can be adjusted relative to the hub. A bungee cord or The Hub Dial sticker needs to be cut out and attached
its substitute is used. It will need to be attached, detached, to the dustcap so that the calibration lines are right against
and re-attached several times without losing the position the cone and so that the “0” mark lines up with the cone
of the hub, so set up the bungee cord to a fixed point on mark or hub-shell mark.
the rim and a fixed point on the bench or vise.
1 0 +1 +2
-3 -2 +3
-4 +4
-5 +5
-6 +6
-7 +7
12.29 Attach a bungee cord to the rim at the valve
hole (or valve), then attach the other end to a fixed point
on the bench.
71. [ ] Attach a bungee cord to valve/valve hole

and to fixed point on bench/vise to fix rim
from turning.
The following adjustment procedure is very different
from the way most mechanics adjust hubs. The procedure
uses an adjustment-calibration sticker (a BBI product), but
a piece of masking tape that you mark yourself can be used
as an alternative to the sticker. This approach (with sticker 12.31 BBI Hub Dial sticker placed on a rotating dustcap
or tape) may seem awkward at first, but students at BBI so that the “0” mark lines up with the edge of a cone-
wrench flat.
12 – 15
76. [ ] Remove bungee cord and check for knock in
hub by jiggling rim (rotate wheel and check
at many points about rim).
NOTE: If no knock is felt in step 76, skip to step
79. If knock is felt, continue with step 77.
77. [ ] Re-attach bungee cord and repeat adjustment
process to next “+” mark. If not using a BBI
Hub Dial sticker, draw a new mark 1–2mm
+2 0 -2
-4
clockwise on dustcap or hub shell.
+4
+6 -6
1 0 +1 +2
-3 -2 +3
-4 +4
-5 +5
-6 +6
-7 +7
12.32 When the BBI Hub Dial sticker goes on a sta-

tionary dustcap, mark the hub shell in line with the “0”
on the sticker.
73. [ ] Cut out Hub Dial sticker and put it on

dustcap so that “0” mark lines up with cone 12.33 The cone has been turned 10° clockwise so
mark or shell mark. If not using a BBI Hub that the edge of the wrench flat lines up with “+1” on
Dial sticker, draw a mark on dustcap lining the sticker.
up with cone mark or hub-shell mark.
In the next step, hold the cone stationary while break-
ing loose the locknut. If the cone and locknut both turn
counterclockwise simultaneously, the axle may turn with
them. This will cause the locknut on the other end of
the axle against the HV-1 to break loose. This will not be +4
+2 0
-2
+6 -4
obvious, but as adjustment continues to be set tighter and -6
tighter, a slight amount of play will persistently remain.
The play being felt will be the loose locknut on the end
of the axle against the HV-1. By this time the adjustment
is probably over-tight and the right-side locknut and cone
need to be resecured. Start over. Avoid this by keeping the
cone absolutely stationary while breaking loose the locknut.
74. [ ] Holding left cone absolutely stationary,
loosen left locknut. 12.34 The cone (and sticker) has been turned 10°
clockwise so that the “+1” on the sticker lines up with
75. [ ] Adjust cone clockwise to next dial mark (+), the mark on the hub shell.
hold cone absolutely stationary and secure
locknut 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4"). 78. [ ] Repeat step 71, then steps 74–76 as many
If not using a BBI Hub Dial sticker, simply times as necessary (each time moving cone
draw a new mark 1–2mm clockwise from mark to next “+” mark on hub dial) until
original on dustcap. play is not felt. If at any time play becomes
The next step is to jiggle the rim and feel if there detectable intermittently (play can be felt at
some points on rim, but not at all points on
is knocking that indicates the adjustment is too loose;
rim) the next adjustment should only be half-
then reset the cone to the next positive mark on the Hub
way to next mark.
Dial sticker. This adjustment needs to be very precise.
The objective in the next step is to loosen the quick-
If the mark is under- or over-shot, try again. See figures
release lever enough to take the compression load off
12.33 and 12.34.
the axle, but to leave it tight enough so that the wheel
will not wiggle relative to what it is mounted to when
jiggling the rim to check for free play in the adjustment.
12 – 16
To accomplish this, the lever needs to be opened halfway tional. If a smooth unthreaded stud protrudes from the
back from the perpendicular-to-axle position to a posi- face of the locknut, then the hub has a special axle.
tion parallel to the axle (45°). If the wheel ends up loosely There are actually two different special axles. One is
mounted at this quick-release position, the quick release a 10mm conventional axle with a 9mm unthreaded end
was not properly set initially, and the adjustment should that protrudes past the locknut. The other is a 11mm axle
be started over again. that does not protrude through the locknut at all. Both
of these designs require a different approach from each
other and different approach from other hubs.
The way to identify the 10mm design is to break loose
the locknut. If the smooth stud remains stationary while
the locknut turns, then the axle is the 10mm variety. Cur-
rently hubs of this design have the designation “Parallax
100” on a gold sticker, but this could change or the sticker
might be removed. Another indicator that the hub may be
45º
of this variety is that the smooth protruding stud is black
steel; however, this could change also.
The certain way to identify the 11mm design is to
12.35 Loosen the quick-release lever 45°, then check
for knock. break loose the locknut. If the smooth stud rotates while
the locknut turns, then the axle is the 11mm variety. Cur-
79. [ ] Once knock is eliminated, remove bungee, rently hubs of this design have the designation “Parallax
loosen QR lever 45°, and check for knock. 110” on a gold sticker, but this could change or the sticker
NOTE: If knock is not felt in step 79 (with lever might be removed. Another indicator that the hub may
loosened), perform step 80, otherwise go to be of this variety is that the smooth protruding stud is
step 81. chrome steel; however, this could change also. Some of
80. [ ] Secure skewer lever, re-attach bungee, the 11mm-axle hubs have special locknuts with a built-in
return halfway to last adjustment and repeat
rotating washer shaped like the letter “D.” If this washer
check with bungee off and QR lever loos-
ened 45°. is present, then the hub definitely is the 11mm-axle variety
NOTE: Once knock is felt in step 80 (with lever (see figure 12.36).
loosened) perform steps 81–83.
81. [ ] Adjustment is good: Yes? No? (circle one)
82. [ ] Remove wheel from HV-1, remove skewer
SERVICING 10MM-AXLE
and nut if any, install freewheel or freehub
cogs, install wheel normally.
PARALLAX HUBS
There are only two special considerations with
83. [ ] Check at rim for knocking and adjust skewer
servicing these hubs. When overhauling this variety, a
setting tighter (within normal range) if
knocking is felt.
different technique is required for holding the axle. Also,
although the axle-thread description is a conventional
10mm × 1mm, the special reduced-diameter 9mm ends
and extra thread length require the axle to be replaced
SHIMANO PARALLAX HUBS with original matching parts only.
The recommended Hozan C354 axle vise with threaded
Shimano makes several front hubs that are in a style
group called “Parallax.” Some of these hubs are completely hole is adequate but not ideal for grasping the end of the
conventional in every way except the oversize diameter of axle for disassembly purposes. Better choices would be the
the hub-shell core. Some of them have special axle designs Park, United Bicycle, or Campagnolo axle vises.
that require some slightly different techniques.
All models of Parallax hubs have rubber seal covers SERVICING 11MM-AXLE
that hide the access to the cones. These soft seals must
be pulled over the locknut and off the end of the axle PARALLAX HUBS
before servicing the hub. There are actually two varieties of this hub. One has
The way to tell the difference between the varieties of a simple round-face locknut on the end of the axle. The
Parallax hubs is simple. If a threaded axle protrudes past other has a built-in rotating washer that is shaped like the
the face of the locknut, the hub is completely conven- letter “D” and has a tab in the face of the washer that fits
into the axle slot.
12 – 17
Complications The hub with no “D”-shaped washer can be held by

The fact that the axle does not protrude through the grasping the smooth stud protruding from the locknut face
locknut means that there is no way to pre-load the axle in a smooth-jaw axle vise such as the Park AV-1.
and then adjust the hub. This reduces the hub adjust- To hold the axle while disassembling a hub with a
ment to pure trial and error; furthermore, the design of “D”-shaped washer, gently grasp the smooth stud and the
the hub makes it impossible to use the Hub Dial stickers tab on the face of the “D”-shaped washer in a smooth-
or any other marking system to track the increments of jawed vise.
adjustment. Estimating the amount that the cone wrench When adjusting the hub, grasp the axle in an axle vise
moves for each adjustment is the only way to control the or bench vise so that it cannot rotate. Start with the cone
size of each adjustment. backed off at least 90° from the point it first contacts the
The presence of the “D”-shaped washer makes it bearings. Secure the locknut. Jiggle the end of the axle to
virtually impossible to grasp the axle in any kind of a vise check for free play. Do not interpret the looseness of the
and makes it extremely difficult to grasp the end of the “D”-shaped washer as play in the bearings.
axle to feel for free play or a tight adjustment. When the amount of free play is correct, it should
The steel locknut threads onto an aluminum axle with disappear when the wheel is securely mounted in the fork
very little thread engagement due to the low profile of the and reappear when the skewer is loosened 45°. It will take
locknut. The possibility of stripping axle threads is high. repeated trial-and-error adjustments to find the subtle set-
There is no way to measure torque, so the mechanic must ting that has no play when the skewer is fully tight but has
subjectively reach a tightness that will not strip the axle or play when the skewer is loosened 45°.
allow the cone to work loose. Using Loctite 222 on the
cone and locknut threads greatly reduces this problem.
Service procedures CAMPAGNOLO
LOOSE-BALL HUBS
VARIETIES
2 1 Campagnolo has made hubs for decades of a com-
pletely traditional design that require the same procedures
3 2 as most other hubs (as covered in the preceding sections
of this chapter). Through 2003, all Campagnolo track hubs
and a number of road front hubs are the traditional design.
3 4 However, since 1996 Campagnolo has made two designs
of loose-ball hubs that require unique procedures.
Campagnolo makes two varieties of loose-ball freehubs
requiring unique procedures described in this section.
Campagnolo also makes freehubs with cartridge bear-
ings that are not covered in this section. The Campagnolo
freehub models covered in this section are characterized
by one of two features. First, check whether there is a
5mm hex-key fitting in the left end of the axle (where the
5
skewer installs). If so, this is the compression-ring variety of
loose-ball Campagnolo freehubs. If this is not the case,
observe whether the left-side axle protrusion is threaded. If
so, this is the locknut-style variety of loose-ball Campagnolo
freehubs. If a Campagnolo freehub has neither of these
characteristics, and the locknuts on both ends of the axle are
hex-shaped, it is a cartridge-bearing model, and is covered
12.36 Parts of a Shimano Parallax hub with an in the CARTRIDGE-BEARING HUBS chapter.
11mm axle: 1. Rubber seal. 2. Locknut/“D”-washer A number of Campagnolo front-hub models made
assembly. 3. Alternate regular locknut. 4. Cone with since 1999 are of the compression-ring variety covered in this
seal. 5. 11mm axle.
12 – 18
section. Check whether there is a 5mm hex-key fitting in 6. [ ] Rotate axle and feel for severe grittiness
the ends of the axle (where the skewer installs). If so, this that indicates worn out parts.
is the compression-ring variety of loose-ball Campagnolo NOTE: Skip to step 47 if not overhauling hub.
front hubs. All other Campagnolo front hubs are either 7. [ ] Remove freehub cogs.
8. [ ] Measure over-locknut width.
completely traditional loose-ball hubs or are a relatively
OVER-LOCKNUT WIDTH IS: _________mm.
obscure 1998 cartridge-bearing design, which is not cov-
9. [ ] Measure from end of freehub body (where
ered in this manual. cogs came off) to locknut face. Add this to
measurement from right flange to outer end
LOCKNUT-STYLE FREEHUBS of freehub body to calculate freehub space.
Freehub body to nut face: __________mm
Replacing freehub body only Body flange to outboard end
It is possible to replace the freehub body on this variety of freehub body +__________mm
without overhauling the hub or adjusting the hub. However, FREEHUB SPACE =__________mm
several of the steps are identical to the steps in the overhaul Disassembly
procedure, so for the sake of brevity the following proce- 10. [ ] Clamp right end of axle in axle vise.
dure references steps from the Disassembly section (page 11. [ ] Hold left cone stationary with cone wrench
12-19) and the Assembly section (page 12-20). while breaking loose left locknut with sec-
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer (if any) ond cone wrench.
from hub. 12. [ ] Thread left-end parts off axle and onto bun-
2. [ ] Remove freehub cogs. dling tie (maintaining order and orientation).
3. [ ] Clamp left end of axle in axle vise or soft 13. [ ] Lift hub off axle, cupping hand below hub
jaws. shell to catch ball bearings.
4. [ ] Perform steps 16–18 of Disassembly. 14. [ ] Locate and remove pawls and springs from
5. [ ] Perform steps 40–42 of Assembly. freehub body.
6. [ ] Grease axle, then install freehub body pawl- 15. [ ] Reverse axle in axle vise or soft jaws.
end first onto axle. NOTE: Skip to step 19 if not replacing freehub body.
7. [ ] Use seal pick or similar tool to work rubber- 16. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to loosen set screw on
band loop off of pawls and up onto freehub side of right-side locknut.
body. 17. [ ] Thread right-end parts off axle and onto two
8. [ ] Rotate hub both directions to check that bundling ties, while maintaining order and
pawls are catching and releasing properly. orientation.
9. [ ] Perform steps 35–36 of Assembly. 18. [ ] Remove freehub body from axle.
The following procedure can be followed in full to 19. [ ] Remove rubber seals (if any) from dustcaps
perform a complete overhaul, or it can be used for per- (note orientation) or cones (leave seals on
forming a hub adjustment only. In either case, start at the bundles).
20. [ ] Remove cover ring from right side of hub.
beginning, but if only doing an adjustment, watch carefully
21. [ ] Remove ball bearings one side at a time
for notes indicating which steps are to be skipped. and confirm that quantity and size per side
Pre-inspection for overhaul or adjustment match the standard for these hubs:
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer (if any) Quantity— Left: 9 Right: 10
from hub. Size— Left: 1/4" Right: 7/32"
NOTE: Some hubs have covers (usually rubber, 22. [ ] Pry dustcaps out unless damage is likely.
plastic, or possibly metal) that hide the cone Were dustcaps very loose?
and possibly the locknuts. Remove covers Yes No (circle one)
before proceeding.
2. [ ] Place wheel back in dropouts.
Cleaning and inspection
23. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of hub
3. [ ] Observe wheel in bike and determine shell. NOTE: Do not submerge or drench
whether axles protrude beyond dropout freehub body!
faces. 24. [ ] Inspect outside of hub shell for damage.
4. [ ] If axles protrude, measure dropout thick- Good? Bad? (circle one)
ness. This is maximum axle protrusion. 25. [ ] Inspect pressed-in cups for looseness. See if
Maximum axle protrusion is: _________mm. they rotate or jiggle.
5. [ ] Rotate axle and check for oscillation at ends Good? Bad? (circle one)
that indicates bends.
12 – 19
26. [ ] Trace ball path in cups with a ball point pen 48. [ ] Turn cone clockwise until it very gently con-
to check for pits. tacts bearings, then counterclockwise a full
Good? Bad? (circle one) 45° (1/8 turn).
27. [ ] Trace ball path on cones with a ball point 49. [ ] Hold cone stationary and tighten locknut to
pen to check for pits and inspect for other it to 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
wear problems. Good? Bad? (circle one) 50. [ ] Jerk rim up and down and check for obvi-
28. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. ous (even extreme) knocking. If adjustment
Good? Bad? (circle one) is not adequately loose, go back to step 48
29. [ ] Inspect axle for damaged threads. and start even looser.
Good? Bad? (circle one) 51. [ ] If non-matching right-side hub parts were
30. [ ] Inspect keyed lock washers for damaged installed, check freehub space from step 9
keys. Good? Bad? (circle one) and adjust if necessary.
31. [ ] Inspect locknuts for damaged threads, 52. [ ] If non-matching hub parts were installed,
cracks, warpage, and rounded off flats. compare to over-locknut width in step 8 and
Good? Bad? (circle one) adjust if necessary.
53. [ ] Put Stein HV-1 in vise securely.
Assembly 54. [ ] Insert QR skewer through bottom of HV-1
32. [ ] Replace bad parts on bundles with good and into right end of axle (no springs).
parts. NOTE: Right-side cone is press fit onto 55. [ ] Thread nut (without spring) onto skewer.
axle. To replace it, support large end of cone 56. [ ] Move lever through its full swing, checking
on vise jaws, then tap on axle with mallet. location at which clamping force begins.
33. [ ] Grease axle. Adjust nut so clamping force begins at point
NOTE: Skip to step 37 if not replacing freehub body. base of lever is parallel to axle. Close quick-
34. [ ] Install freehub body (pawl-end first) onto release lever until base of lever is perpen-
shorter-thread end of axle. dicular to axle.
35. [ ] Transfer double-tie parts bundle onto axle. 57. [ ] Jiggle rim to check hub for looseness. If
36. [ ] Secure locknut to 130in-lbs, then secure set knock is not obvious, set left cone and
screw with 2mm hex key. locknut to 30º more counterclockwise posi-
37. [ ] Pack grease and 9 1/4" balls in left side of tion and check again (repeat as necessary).
hub, then install dustcap and/or seal. NOTE: For reference, 30º is change of one
38. [ ] Pack grease and 10 7/32" balls in right side hour on clock face.
of hub, then install dustcap (if any). 58. [ ] Clean left dustcap and left cone thoroughly
39. [ ] Install axle in axle vise or soft jaws with (with acetone or alcohol).
right end down. 59. [ ] Attach a bungee cord to valve/valve hole
40. [ ] Install double-looped #32 rubber band (1/8" and to fixed point on bench/vise to fix rim
wide, 2" diameter) over splined portion of from turning.
freehub body. 60. [ ] Cut out Hub Dial sticker and put it on dustcap
41. [ ] Grease pawls and springs, then install into so that “0” mark lines up with cone mark
seats in freehub body. (one end of a wrench flat). If not using a BBI
42. [ ] Pull one loop of rubber band up over pawls Hub Dial sticker, draw a mark on dustcap lin-
to keep them compressed. ing up with cone mark or hub-shell mark.
43. [ ] Place right side of hub over axle until pawls 61. [ ] Holding left cone absolutely stationary,
are partially inside hub shell. loosen left locknut.
44. [ ] Use seal pick or similar tool to work rub- 62. [ ] Adjust cone clockwise to next dial mark (+),
ber-band loop off of pawls and down onto hold cone absolutely stationary and secure
freehub body. locknut 120–180in-lbs (30–45lbs@4").
45. [ ] Rotate hub both directions to check that If not using a BBI Hub Dial sticker, simply
pawls are catching and releasing properly. draw a new mark 1–2mm clockwise from
46. [ ] Transfer left-side parts bundle to axle. original on dustcap.
Adjustment 63. [ ] Remove bungee cord and check for knock in
47. [ ] If doing hub adjustment only: Grasp right hub by jiggling rim (rotate wheel and check
end of axle in axle vise, then hold left cone at many points about rim).
stationary while breaking loose left locknut. NOTE: If knock is felt easily in step 63, perform
(It may be necessary to pry off cover to get steps 64–65.
access to left-side locknut and cone.)
12 – 20
64. [ ] Re-attach bungee cord and repeat adjustment 71. [ ] Check at rim for knocking and adjust skewer
process to next “+” mark. If not using a BBI setting tighter (within normal range) if
Hub Dial sticker, draw a new mark 1–2mm knocking is felt.
clockwise on dustcap or hub shell.
65. [ ] Repeat step 61, then steps 62–63 as many
times as necessary (each time moving cone COMPRESSION-RING-STYLE HUBS
mark to next “+” mark on hub dial), until
play is not felt. NOTE: If at any time play
Replacing freehub body only
becomes detectable intermittently (play can It is possible to replace the freehub body on this
be felt at some points on rim, but not at all variety without overhauling the hub or adjusting the hub.
points on rim) the next adjustment should However, several of the steps are identical to the steps in
only be halfway to next mark. the overhaul procedure, so for the sake of brevity the fol-
66. [ ] Once knock is eliminated, remove bungee, lowing procedures references steps from the Disassembly
loosen QR lever 45°, and check for knock. and Assembly sections (page 12-22).
NOTE: If knock is not felt in step 66 (with lever 1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer from
loosened), perform step 67. Otherwise go to hub.
step 68. 2. [ ] Remove freehub cogs.
67. [ ] Secure skewer lever, re-attach bungee, 3. [ ] Perform steps 4–8 of Disassembly.
return halfway to last adjustment and repeat 4. [ ] Grease axle and pawls.
check with bungee off and QR lever loos- 5. [ ] Perform steps 39–44 of Assembly.
ened 45°. 6. [ ] Install cogs, skewer, and wheel.
NOTE: Once knock is felt in step 67 (with lever The following procedure can be followed in full to
loosened) perform steps 68–71. perform a complete overhaul, or it can be used for per-
68. [ ] Adjustment is good: Yes? No? forming a hub adjustment only. In either case, start at the
69. [ ] Remove wheel from HV-1, remove skewer
beginning, but if only doing an adjustment, watch carefully
and nut if any, then install freehub cogs.
70. [ ] Install left-side cover (if any), then install for notes indicating which steps are to be skipped.
wheel normally. Pre-inspection for overhaul or adjustment
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer (if any)
Adjuster plate Compression ring Seal disc from hub.
NOTE: Some hubs have covers (plastic or metal)
Ball retainer
that hide the axle hardware. Remove covers
before proceeding.
Hub shell (not shown)
Axle spacer
Cones Axle
Seal disc
Pawl spring Freehub body Axle spacer
Ball retainer
Seal disc
12.37 Campagnolo compression-ring style freehub. Pawls
12 – 21
2. [ ] Rotate axle and feel for severe grittiness 21. [ ] Inspect axle for bends.
that indicates worn out parts. Good? Bad? (circle one)
NOTE: Skip to step 45 if not overhauling hub. 22. [ ] Inspect axle for damaged threads.
3. [ ] Rear hub only: Remove freehub cogs. Good? Bad? (circle one)
23. [ ] Inspect axle spacers and adjuster plate for
Disassembly damaged threads, cracks, warpage, and
NOTE: Skip to step 9 if not servicing freehub body. rounded off flats. Good? Bad? (circle one)
4. [ ] Rear hub only: Insert 5mm hex key in right 24. [ ] Inspect seal discs for tears and warpage.
end of axle, then use 17mm wrench to turn 25. [ ] Rear hub only: Inspect pawls for cracks,
right-side axle spacer clockwise to remove it. chipping, or edge wear.
5. [ ] Rear hub only: Remove freehub body from 26. [ ] Rear hub only: Inspect cartridge bearings
right end of axle. in freehub body for tightness, grittiness, or
6. [ ] Rear hub only: Orient freehub body so looseness (bearings not intended to be ser-
inward end is facing you, then find round viced except by replacing freehub body).
hole in face.
7. [ ] Rear hub only: Find first pawl counterclock- Assembly
wise from round hole, and insert pick under 27. [ ] Replace bad parts with good parts.
pawl spring (circular wire that goes around 28. [ ] Install new 5/32" bearings into plastic
all pawls) at this point. Carefully work coun- retainers.
terclockwise to remove pawl spring from 29. [ ] Grease axle, pawls (if any), axle-spacer
groove, then remove end of spring from threads, and bearing retainers.
round hole. Remove pawls. NOTE: Watch 30. [ ] Install retainer into right cup (solid-face
for pawls falling out as spring is removed! first), then install seal disc over retainer
8. [ ] Rear hub only: Only if replacing freehub (rubber-face out). Carefully press seal disc
body, or freehub-body seal, carefully remove until it snaps into groove.
seal disc from back face of freehub body. 31. [ ] Install retainer into left cup (solid-face first),
9. [ ] Insert 5mm hex keys in both axle ends, then then install seal disc over retainer (rubber-
unthread left-side spacer from axle. face out). Carefully press seal disc until it
10. [ ] Use 2.5mm hex key to loosen binder bolt on snaps into groove.
adjuster plate, then unthread adjuster plate. 32. [ ] Place cone (large-end first) onto left end of
11. [ ] Tap on left end of axle with plastic mallet axle and seat against taper.
just until axle loosens. 33. [ ] Insert left end of axle into right end of hub
12. [ ] Remove compression ring and cone from left until cone is inside right-side seal disc.
side (may still be on axle or inside left side NOTE: Use technique in step 42 to install
of hub shell). axle with freehub body attached.
13. [ ] Remove axle from right side of hub, then 34. [ ] Install cone (small-end first) onto left end of
pull remaining cone off left end of axle. axle and into left-side seal disc.
14. [ ] Pull on bearing retainer (behind seal disc) 35. [ ] Install compression ring into cone.
with finger to remove seal disc and bearing 36. [ ] Thread adjuster plate onto left end of axle.
retainer from left side of hub, then repeat for 37. [ ] Thread left-side axle spacer into left end of
right side. axle.
15. [ ] Remove ball bearings from plastic retainers. 38. [ ] Stabilize right end of axle with 5mm hex key
and tighten left side spacer to 105in-lbs.
Cleaning and inspection NOTE: Skip steps 39–44 if freehub body was not
16. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of hub serviced.
shell. NOTE: Do not submerge or drench 39. [ ] Rear hub only: Carefully press seal disc
freehub body! (rubber-face first) onto inward end of
17. [ ] Inspect outside of hub shell for damage. freehub body until seated against cog-
Good? Bad? (circle one) mounting splines.
18. [ ] Inspect pressed-in cups for looseness. See 40. [ ] Rear hub only: Seat round surface of each
if they rotate or jiggle. pawl into round end of each pawl seat on
Good? Bad? (circle one) freehub body.
19. [ ] Trace ball path in cups with a ball point pen 41. [ ] Rear hub only: Hook right-angle end of pawl
to check for pits. Good? Bad? (circle one) spring through spring groove and into round
20. [ ] Trace ball path on cones with a ball point hole, then work spring clockwise around
pen to check for pits and inspect for other freehub body to seat spring into pawl and
wear problems. Good? Bad? (circle one) body grooves.
12 – 22
42. [ ] Rear hub only: Place freehub body over 57. [ ] Detach bungee, then check for knock again.
right end of axle until pawls contact If knock remains, repeat step 56 as many
shell. With gentle inward pressure, rotate times as necessary (additional 2mm further
freehub body counterclockwise until pawls from shell mark each time). NOTE: If at any
retract and body seats fully. NOTE: It may time play becomes detectable intermittently
be necessary to depress pawls manually if (play can be felt at some points on rim, but
freehub body does not seat automatically not at all points on rim) the next adjustment
with this technique. should only be 1mm.
43. [ ] Rear hub only: Thread right-side axle spacer 58. [ ] Once knock is eliminated, remove bungee,
on (counterclockwise). loosen QR lever 45°, and check for knock.
44. [ ] Rear hub only: Holding right-side spacer NOTE: Once knock is felt in step 58 (with lever
stationary with 17mm wrench, use 5mm bit loosened) perform steps 59–62.
socket in right end of axle to tighten axle to 59. [ ] Adjustment is good: Yes? No? (circle one)
130in-lbs (clockwise on bit socket). 60. [ ] Remove wheel from HV-1, remove skewer
and nut if any, then install freehub cogs (if
Adjustment any).
45. [ ] If adjusting hub only: Use 2.5mm hex key to 61. [ ] Install covers (if any), then install wheel nor-
loosen adjuster-plate binder, loosen adjuster mally.
plate 1/2 turn, then tap on left end of axle 62. [ ] Check at rim for knocking and adjust skewer
(bearing play should develop, repeat if not). setting tighter (within normal range) if knock-
46. [ ] Put Stein HV-1 in vise securely. ing is felt.
47. [ ] Insert QR skewer through bottom of HV-1
and into right end of axle (no springs).
48. [ ] Thread nut (without spring) onto skewer.
49. [ ] Move lever through its full swing, checking
location at which clamping force begins.
Adjust nut so clamping force begins at point
base of lever is parallel to axle. Close quick-
release lever until base of lever is perpen-
dicular to axle.
50. [ ] Jiggle rim to check hub for looseness. If
knock is not obvious, loosen adjuster plate
further and jerk up on wheel to reset cone.
51. [ ] When knock is obvious, start turning adjuster
plate clockwise (with fingers) while jerking up
and down steadily on rim (with other hand)
until only slight knock is detected.
52. [ ] Use 2.5mm hex key to secure binder bolt
on adjuster plate, then confirm some knock
remains (if not, repeat step 50).
53. [ ] Clean left end of hub shell and adjuster plate
thoroughly (with acetone or alcohol).
54. [ ] Attach a bungee cord to valve/valve hole
and to fixed point on bench/vise to fix rim
from turning.
55. [ ] Use a fine-point marker to put matching
marks on adjuster plate and hub shell.
56. [ ] Loosen adjuster-plate binder, rotate plate
until plate mark is about 2mm clockwise
from shell mark, then gently secure binder.
12 – 23
LOOSE-BALL-HUB TROUBLESHOOTING (table 12-3)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The axle feels tight or rough to rotate when play is first eliminated (or on a quick-release hub
it fails to develop play when the quick-release lever is loosened 45°).
Last adjustment was too large. Try to find an in-between adjustment.
Mis-installed dustcap rubbing on axle set. Observe whether dustcap turns true as the wheel
turns and reset if needed.
Bent axle causes portion of the axle set to rub dustcap. Inspect for bent axle and replace.
Dry grease. Disassemble, inspect, overhaul.
Cones and/or cups galled. Disassemble, inspect, replace parts.
Seal mechanism drag. Check that seal mechanisms are not incorrectly
positioned and/or lubricate seals.
Wrong size balls. Disassemble, measure balls.
SYMPTOM: Play cannot be eliminated without severely over-tightening the adjustment.
Locknut on end of axle set that is mounted in vise not Check locknut security.
secured.
Cups and/or cones galled. Disassemble, inspect, and replace.
Loose cups in hub shell. Disassemble, inspect, and repair with appropriate
Loctite.
SYMPTOM: Properly adjusted bearings feel sluggish but not rough when rotating the axle.
Seal mechanism drag. Grease seal mechanisms.
Plastic dustcap rubbing. Align dustcap.
SYMPTOM: When adjusting or inspecting the hub, an erratic looseness or tightness is detected that
comes and goes and changes location.
Too many balls in the cup(s). Disassemble and check ball quantity.
SYMPTOM: When rotating the axle set, a pattern is detected of a consistent tight spot and a consistent
loose spot.
Bent axle. Inspect for bent axle and replace.
Low-precision parts. None.
SYMPTOM: When inspecting the cone, a wear pattern is detected that is high on the cone race on one-
half of the cone and is low on the cone race 180° away.
Bent or broken axle. Inspect and replace.
SYMPTOM: Axle is bent or broken.
Dropouts are misaligned. Check and align dropouts.
Weak dropouts combined with a weak axle. Avoid using quick-release axle or upgrade quality
of solid axle.
High torque from very low gear pulls cog set and hub Use strongest axle available.
forward beyond the elasticity of axle.
SYMPTOM: When riding the bike, a clicking sound is heard from a hub (usually the front), but the hub
feels normal when inspected.
Loose balls rotating around the cone drop over the top Normal, but possibly the hub is short on grease.
of the cone and bump into the last ball over the top.
SYMPTOM: When inspecting the cone, the wear pattern is very high or very low on the cone race. Wear
life has probably been very short.
Wrong size balls. Measure balls.
Inappropriate cone for hub. Inspect cone.
12 – 24
13 – CARTRIDGE-BEARING HUBS
Bearing
Plastic seal
Driven ring
Seal ring Drive ring
Capture plate
Needle-bearing cage
Drive spring
Needle-bearing race
Spring retainer
Capture sleeve
Bearing
Axle Plastic seal
Hub shell
Driveshell
Plastic seal
Bearing
Adjusting cone
Axle end
ABOUT THE REST OF THIS CHAPTER 13 – 5
GENERIC SERVICE PROCEDURE 13 – 6
DESIGN VARIATIONS 13 – 6
GENERIC FREEHUB SERVICE PROCEDURE 13 – 7
GENERIC FRONT HUB AND FREEWHEEL HUB SERVICE PROCEDURE 13 – 11
CHRIS KING FREEHUBS 13 – 14
TOOL TERMINOLOGY 13 – 14
PART TERMINOLOGY 13 – 14
FULL HUB SERVICE 13 – 15
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Dustcap: A piece that threads or presses onto the
outer end of the hub shell to cover the hole through which
This chapter is about cartridge-bearing hubs. These
the bearings are accessed.
hubs are often called sealed-bearing hubs, but both loose-
Freehub body: The segment of a rear hub to
ball hubs and cartridge-bearing hubs can have sealed bear-
which the gears attach. It rotates on its own bearings
ings. The design of cartridge-bearing hubs varies tremen-
and includes at least a part of the ratchet mechanism.
dously with almost every manufacturer designing hubs in
Also called driver.
a different way. About the only factor all cartridge-bearing
Hub shell: The main structure of the hub. The
hub manufacturers have in common is that they all use a
hub shell includes the housing for the bearings, which
cartridge bearing that is pressed into the hub shell. Hadley
contains a hub core and two hub flanges.
and Conrad are names that are sometimes used for the
Inner race: The cylinder at the inner perimeter
cartridge bearing. Cartridge-bearing hubs include front
of a bearing cartridge.
hubs, rear hubs that accept a thread-on freewheel, and
Mount: See bearing mount.
freehubs (rear hubs that have the freewheel mechanism
Outer race: The cylinder at the outer perimeter
integrated into the hub).
of a bearing cartridge.
There is no way all brands and models can be
Pawl: A lever with a distinct corner at one end
covered in this chapter, so there is a generic freehub
and a rounded surface on the other end. The rounded
procedure (with different steps for all design varia-
end acts as a pivot for the rotation of the pawl. The
tions) and a generic front-hub/non-freehub-rear proce-
sharp end engages the teeth in a ratchet ring in one
dure (with different steps for all design variations). In
relative direction of rotation and slips over the teeth
addition, there is procedure for Chris King freehubs,
in the other relative direction of rotation.
which are popular and too unique to cover in the
Pawl spring: A spring that moves the pawl out-
generic procedure.
ward to engage the ratchet ring.
Ratchet mechanism: A mechanism that engages two
parts together to move as one when one of the parts is
GENERAL INFORMATION under torsional load, but it permits the two parts to rotate
independently when no torsional load is being applied to
the part.
TERMINOLOGY Ratchet plate: A plate with directional gear teeth
Axle: The shaft that goes through the hub, about on one face. Two ratchet plates (with gear-teeth faces
which the hub turns. against each other), function as a ratchet mechanism.
Axle spacer: Any hardware on the end of an axle When load is applied in one direction, the plates lock
that sets the distance from the dropout to the outer together and turn as one. When load is applied in the
bearing of the hub. Sometimes shortened to spacer. other direction, the directional teeth ride over each
Bearing mount: Any surface a cartridge bear- other, so the parts are allowed to rotate independently.
ing engages, either at its inner perimeter or its outer Sometimes called star ratchet or star driver.
perimeter. Sometimes shortened to mount. Ratchet ring: A ring with directional teeth on its
Cartridge bearing: A fully self-contained bearing unit inner perimeter.
that cannot be disassembled. A bearing cartridge includes Seal: A rubber or plastic ring, or a rubber-covered
ball bearings and an inner and outer race. The bearings metal ring, that covers a gap between two parts to
are usually hidden behind seals. The entire assembly is prevent the entry of contaminants.
shaped like a short cylinder with a hole through the center. Shoulder: A flat surface that the face of a cartridge
Sometimes shortened to cartridge. bearing seats against. A shoulder can be on the shaft
Driver: See freehub body. going through the bearing or in the cylinder into
which the bearing is inserted. The shoulder fixes the
location of the bearing.
13 – 1
Snap-ring: A metal ring that fits in a groove on the an overhaul. If the equipment sees little wet-weather
outside or inside of a cylinder to trap the location of riding, then an appropriate maintenance cycle would
another item on or in the cylinder. The snap-ring’s shape be 2,000–3,000 miles in most cases. This short cycle
must be deflected to get it out of its mounting groove. may be surprising. It is commonly thought that car-
Sometimes called a circlip. tridge-bearing hubs are maintenance-free because
Spacer sleeve: A sleeve placed over an axle that sets they are “sealed.” The seals in these hubs are effective
the distance between two cartridge bearings. Sometimes for keeping dirt out and increase the longevity of the
shortened to sleeve. grease by minimizing exposure to air that dries out
Spring washer: See wavy washer. grease. The seals are no guarantee that water will not
Star ratchet: A alternate name for a ratchet plate. get in the bearings, and they do not prevent internal
Wavy washer: A washer made out of spring-grade wear from contaminating the grease with microscopic
steel that is shaped somewhat like a potato chip (but abrasive particles of metal. If a lot of wet-condition
with a hole through the center). The thickness of a wavy riding is done, then the maintenance might need to be
washer is reduced under load. This feature enables the as often as every 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether
wavy washer to act as a variable-thickness spacer. being ridden or not, so another factor is how long the
bike may be sitting before it will be used again. For
PREREQUISITES example, if ridden 200 miles in the rain in the fall, then
put away four months for the winter, it would probably
Wheel removal and installation be a good idea to overhaul the hub(s) before putting
Before overhauling or adjusting a hub, the wheel the bike away for the winter.
must be removed from the bike. See the WHEEL REMOVAL, Symptoms indicating need of overhaul
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION chapter (page 18-6) if What symptoms would lead to the feeling that the
unsure about wheel removal and installation. hub(s) should be overhauled? One is that when turning
Freewheel removal and installation the axle it does not turn smoothly. Since there are no
To overhaul or adjust a rear hub with a thread-on adjustments on most cartridge-bearing hubs, the tight-
freewheel, it is necessary to remove the freewheel. See ness is unlikely to be caused by a poor adjustment. The
the FREEHUB MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS lack of smoothness could be caused by dry grease, con-
chapter (page 25-9) for freewheel removal. If not yet taminated grease, or worn parts. Another symptom is
acquainted with chapter 25, it may be unclear whether that when removing the wheel and rotating the axle, the
the hub has a thread-on freewheel or is a freehub. end of the axle oscillates, indicating a bent axle (which
There is a simple way to determine this. Examine the should always be replaced). Yet another symptom is a
outer face of the gear set and look for splines in the squealing or clicking sound coming from the hub that
hole the axle comes out of. If there are no splines, it indicates a bearing is loose in its mount. Finally, the hub
is not a freehub. If there are splines, rotate the gears may have a broken axle, which may not be obvious until
counterclockwise to the wheel. If the splines rotate with the quick-release skewer is removed and then the axle
the gears, the hub is a freehub. If the splines remain falls out in two pieces.
stationary, the hub in not a freehub and the gear set is Symptoms indicating need of adjustment
a freewheel that threads onto the hub. Technically, cartridge bearings cannot be “adjusted.”
This is because, unlike a loose-ball hub that has a cup
INDICATIONS facing out toward the end of the axle and a cone facing
in toward the middle of the axle, a cartridge bearing has
There are several reasons to overhaul the hub(s) and
several reasons to adjust them. An overhaul should be an inner race facing out from the axis of the axle and
done as part of a regular maintenance cycle, the duration an outer race facing in toward the axis of the axle. On
of which will change depending on the type of rid- a loose-ball hub, the bearing is adjusted by moving the
ing, the amount of riding, and the type of equipment. cone on the axle so that it becomes closer to or further
Adjustments should be done on the basis of need. from the cup. In a cartridge-bearing hub, moving the inner
race closer or further from the outer race could only be
Maintenance cycles accomplished by expanding or shrinking the race, which
If starting out with hub(s) known to be in good is impossible since it is hardened steel. On the other hand
condition with good-quality grease, they should be it is possible to mis-adjust a cartridge bearing on a threaded
able to be ridden thousands of miles without needing axle. If the hardware on the axle just outside of the inner
13 – 2
race is threaded onto the axle too far, it will displace the Custom supports and drivers
inner race from the correct orientation with the outer Several tools may be needed that cannot be purchased,
race, causing the ball bearings to bind between them. This so they must be made by the mechanic. These tools are
happens because the balls ride in shallow troughs in each usually simple to make and inexpensive, but they require
race. When the troughs do not line up with each other, some resourcefulness. These custom tools fall into two
the effective width of the channel they create together categories: supports and drivers.
becomes narrower than the ball bearings. Custom supports: The hub and driver must be
supported at various times during bearing removal and
Outer race
installation. An assortment of lengths and diameters of
Inner race PVC pipe and PVC plumbing fittings from the hardware
store serve this purpose well. Another way to support
Side load on inner race
the driver is by putting a cassette cog on it, then inserting
the driver into the vise with the cassette cog resting on
top of the vise.
Custom drivers: There are occasions when cartridge
13.1 The side load on the inner race of the right bear- bearings need to be pressed in, but there is not a compat-
ing cartridge causes contact to occur between the races ible installation tool. In this case, a driver is used to impact
and the ball bearings at inappropriate points (contact the bearing for installation. The ideal driver contacts the
points indicated by arrows).
face of the outer race of the bearing, has a hole in the
center that is larger than the inner race, and is a few tenths
The symptom created when the hardware is too
of a millimeter smaller in diameter than the bearing. Some-
tight against the inner race is that of a tight bearing.
times a socket tool is just right (although they are often
In the case that the axle is quick release (usually), the
too short to clear the axle). Sections of tubing (bicycle-
symptom may go away when the wheel is removed
frame and fork tubes, seat posts, handlebar sections) or
from the bike because of the nature of quick-release
pipe (PVC, copper, or steel) from the hardware store are
axles to expand when the load of the quick-release
potential drivers. There may even be occasions where a
skewer is released. Therefore, a hub that is apparently
bicycle tool made for a completely different purpose is the
fine when checked out of the bike could be over-tight
right O.D., I.D., and length to be a useful driver.
in the bike (when there is no way to check it).
Bearing-removal tools
TOOL CHOICES There are several tools currently available or avail-
able until recently that are in the category of “universal”
General-use tools cartridge-bearing removers. Due to the variety of hub
There are several tools used for servicing cartridge- designs, no tool can be truly universal, but with a good
bearing hubs that are used on other parts of the bike. assortment of tools and a little ingenuity, virtually any
These include: hub can be serviced. There are three choices of removal
Hex-key wrenches (various sizes up to 6mm) tools: the Bicycle Research Sealed Bearing Remover Kit
Cone wrenches (various sizes up to 16mm) (#SBR-K), split-lip extractors, and the CalVan #28. For
Plastic mallet the complex area of bearing removal, the well-equipped
Internal snap-ring pliers (various sizes and mechanic would want each of these tools.
angles of tips) One more tool that should not be overlooked is the
Soft jaws for the vise axle itself. When the axle is the shouldered type, it always
Axle vise (or other radius-jaw clamps) in a wide acts as a bearing remover while the axle is being removed.
variety of sizes Once the axle and bearing are separated, the axle can be
installed back into the hub and used as a driver to remove
the second bearing as well.
13 – 3
are expanded when not contained by a bearing they
Bicycle are designed to fit, so never tighten the bolts unless
Research the expanding cylinder is inside a bearing that it is
SBR-K intended to fit.
Bicycle Research SBR-K procedure
1. [ ] Select expansion cylinder that matches bear-
ing I.D.
2. [ ] Grease inside cone of expansion cylinder,
then install under bolt on tapered end of
driver, but do not tighten bolt.
3. [ ] Clean outside of expander and inside of bear-
ing with alcohol or other residue-free solvent.
4. [ ] Insert shaft-end of tool into outer face of
bearing, then pull on shaft end until expan-
sion ring compresses and inserts into bearing.
Adjust tool position so flat face of expansion
ring is flush with outer face of bearing.
5. [ ] Hold bolt in shaft-end of tool stationary with
hex key while tightening bolt at expander
CalVan 28 (partial) end as tight as possible (short of rounding
hex key or hex sockets in bolts).
6. [ ] Place hub or freehub body on support,
then tap on shaft with plastic mallet to
Drift Chisel drive out bearing.
7. [ ] Loosen bolt in expander end of tool, then
pull or tap bearing off expander end.
Split-lip extractor design
Expanding cylinder The split-lip extractor design is a cylinder that is split
in half (lengthwise). One end of the cylinder has lips that
Split-lip cylinder catch behind the bearing. When the split cylinder is com-
pressed (closed), the lips pass through the bearing. When
Expansion bolt the split is spread open and supported by the insertion of
a chisel, the lips can no longer pass through the bearing.
Use a 3/8" cut chisel for 12–14mm I.D. bearings, and
13.2 Bearing-removal tools. use a 1/2" cut chisel for 15–17mm I.D. bearings. When
impact is applied to the chisel, the bearing is driven out.
Bicycle Research SBR-K design The advantage of these split-lip tools is that they never
The Bicycle Research SBR-K is the most universal slip out. The disadvantage of this design is that if there
tool. It works on the principle of an expanding cylinder is not adequate clearance on the back side of the bearing
that grips the inside bore of the bearing by means of fric- for the lips, the tool will not fit.
tion. This design eliminates the need for access to the back Split-lip extractor procedure
face of the bearing, which is not always accessible. This 1. [ ] Compress tool-cylinder halves, then install
tool kit includes five sizes of removers: 10mm, 12mm, tool (lip-end first) into outer face of bearing
1/2", 15mm, and 17mm. The limitation of the tool is being removed.
that bearings that have a large I.D./O.D. difference, are 2. [ ] Install chisel into tool split (from opposite
heavily secured with Loctite, or are corroded in place may side) and wedge chisel firmly into tool.
have more friction holding them in place then the tool 3. [ ] Place hub or freehub body on support with
can generate between itself and the bearing. If this is the bearing being removed on bottom.
4. [ ] Use ballpeen hammer to tap on chisel until
case, the tool will keep slipping out before the bearing is
bearing is removed, then separate chisel
moved. from tool.
Proper care and use of the SBR-K is important.
The expanding cylinders are easily destroyed if they
13 – 4
CalVan #28 design T-handle

The CalVan #28 is a single tool with lipped prongs
that spread apart as the tool handle is tightened. The
lips are somewhat thinner than the split-lip type of
tool, so the CalVan #28 may fit some bearings that Thrust-washer
the split-lip tool will not. Since it is not size specific assembly
like the other removers, it is more universal. How- Shaft
ever, the fit is not precise and the tool is much more
awkward to use.
Large pilot
CalVan #28 procedure
1. [ ] Loosen tool handle so prongs contact each Small pilot
other.
2. [ ] Insert prongs into outer face of bearing
being removed, until lips of prongs are
Small pilot
behind bearing.
3. [ ] Hold prong-end of tool stationary while turning
tool handle clockwise as tightly as possible. Large pilot
4. [ ] Support wheel or freehub body in air with
one hand while using slide hammer on tool
to apply downward impact until bearing is
extracted.
5. [ ] Loosen tool handle to remove CalVan tool
from bearing.
13.3 White Industries bearing-installation tool.
Bearing-installation tools
There are several tools recently available or cur- tool has an edge in ease of use because its I.D. spacers
rently available that are in the category of “universal” cannot slip out of position.
cartridge-bearing installers.
There are two varieties of universal bearing Using bearing installers
installers. These are the Bicycle Research Sealed Bear- There are several objectives to keep in mind while
ing Installation Kit (#SBI-K) and the White Industries setting up a bearing installer with the parts that are being
Bearing Press (#Bearing-PR). Both work on the prin- assembled. First, if the tool shaft or a pilot matches the
ciple that various diameters of spacers mate against the I.D. of the bearing, this insures good alignment. Second,
face of the bearing, with a threaded shaft that inserts if the bearing is being installed into a recessed mount, the
through the bearings and spacers to draw the whole O.D. of the pilot or pressure washers on the tool must
assembly together when tightened. The difference not exceed the diameter of the bearing or else the pilot
between the tools is primarily in the number and or pressure washers will jam. Finally, the bearing is most
configuration of spacers. protected if the pilot or pressure washers contact the outer
The White Industries tool has spacers that match bear- race only. If the tool simultaneously applies pressure to
ing O.D.s of 24mm, 28mm, and 30mm, and some of these the outer and inner races, it is almost as good. It is not
spacers have lips that fit in 15mm and 17mm holes. The preferred, but it is acceptable, for the tool to apply pressure
shaft itself fits a bearing with a 12mm I.D. just to the inner races. Concerns about load on the inner
The Bicycle Research tool has spacers that match race are primarily an issue when impact is the method of
O.D.s of 24mm, 26mm, 28mm, 30mm, 32mm, and insertion. The steady pressure of an installation tool is
35mm bearings. Additional spacers match bearing I.D.s not likely to damage the bearing through the application
of 12mm, 15mm, and 17mm. The shaft itself fits a bear- of force to the inner race.
ing with a 10mm I.D.
Despite these differences in spacers and shaft
diameters, both tools will fit most popular hub designs.
ABOUT THE REST OF THIS
The I.D. spacers on the Bicycle Research tool tend to get CHAPTER
lost in the hub unless the entire installation process is done From here on, this chapter is divided into two sec-
with the tool precisely horizontal. The White Industries tions. The first section, GENERIC SERVICE PROCEDURE,
13 – 5
is suitable for servicing many of the different brands Bearing retention to shell and driver
of cartridge-bearing hubs. Following this section is a There are three ways that the bearings may be
section for CHRIS KING HUBS. retained to the hub shell and the driver (freehub body).
Press-fit retention: These are press fit (interference
fit) to the external mounting surface. Force is always
GENERIC SERVICE required for removal and installation. The security of

the interference fit is sometimes augmented with Loctite
PROCEDURE between the mating surfaces.
Snap-ring retention: This system relies on a snap-
ring in a groove just past the bearing face to trap the
DESIGN VARIATIONS bearing in the mount. It often is an augmentation to
There are a limited number of ways that cartridge- a press-fit retention system and not the sole method
bearing hubs can be designed. Variations are seen in of retention.
the way axle spacers attach to axles, how bearings Shoulder retention: This systems relies on shoul-
are retained in the hub shell or freehub body, how ders fixed to the external and internal mounts to trap
axles engage the bearings, how the bearings are fixed the bearing in place. The bearing is a slip fit into the
in location (to the axle, driver, or hub shell) and the external mount. There may be grease or anti-sieze on
design of the ratchet mechanism. Familiarize yourself the mounting surfaces.
with the following terminology to prepare for using Bearing retention to axle
the generic procedure. There are three ways that the bearings may be
Axle spacers retained to the axle.
Axle spacers attach to the axle in four different ways. Press-fit retention: These are press fit (interference
They either press on, thread on, are secured by set screws, fit) to the axle. Force is always required for removal and
or are fixed permanently to the axle. installation. The security of the interference fit is sometimes
Press-on spacer: These stay in place by means of augmented with Loctite between the mating surfaces. The
friction. The friction may be created by a mild press fit or axle may have shoulders or not.
by an O-ring between the spacer and the axle. Slip fit: This system relies on axle spacers fixed to
Thread-on spacer: These engage the axle by means the axle outward from the bearing(s) and spacer sleeves or
of a thread. The spacer may have wrench flats on its shoulders in the hub shell inward from the bearing. The
outside, or it may have a hex socket on one face. Some axle should slip in or out of the bearings when the axle
have pin holes for a pin spanner. When one of these spacers are removed. The axle never has shoulders.
spacers is present, there is usually a wrench fitting on the Shoulder retention: This systems relies on shoul-
spacer on the opposite end of the axle, as well, or in the ders built into the axle (located inward of the bearings)
axle itself. Sometimes there is not a wrench fitting in the to trap the axle in place. The bearing is a slip fit or a
opposite end, so the axle must be clamped in an axle vise press fit to the axle.
to unthread the spacer. Axle types
Set-screw spacer: These are retained to the axle Axles fall into two basic categories: shouldered or
by means of a set screw that threads through the side smooth.
of the spacer that binds against the axle. When one Shouldered axle: The axle has fixed sections
of these spacers is present, there is usually a small inward from the bearings that are a larger diameter
hex-socket screw (or screws) in the side of the spacer. than the axle where it passes through the bearings.
Sometimes there is a collar covering the spacer and Impact is usually required for removal and one of the
all that can be seen is an access hole in the collar (for bearings must come out with the axle.
identification purposes). Smooth axle: The axle is the same diameter inward
Fixed spacer: These most often are found on the from the bearings as it is where it passes through the
right end of the axle. They do not have external wrench bearings. It may be possible to remove the axle without
flats or set screws. They will not pull off by hand or force but impact may be required. The bearings will
respond to leverage. They may have a hex-key fitting in stay in place when the axle is removed.
their outer face, but it may only be a way to keep the axle
from turning while a thread-on spacer on the other end
of the axle is being removed or installed.
13 – 6
Ratchet mechanisms 9. [ ] Thread-on spacers only: Attach wrench to

spacers on both ends of axle (or spacer
There are two common ratchet mechanisms: pawl
on one end and axle on other end), then
ratchets and ratchet plates. unthread spacer(s).
Pawl ratchets: Pawls are attached to the outside of 10. [ ] Set-screw spacers only: Use hex key to
the driver (freehub body) and engage a ratchet ring fixed loosen set screw(s) one full turn, then
to the inside of the hub shell. Individual leaf springs or attempt to pull off spacer(s). If still stuck,
coil springs may push out on each pawl, or a single circular loosen set screw(s) another turn and try
spring may enclose all the pawls, causing them to pivot again. NOTE: Some hubs have multiple
outward to engage the ratchet ring. The ratchet ring is set screws with access through a single
typically a permanent part of the hub. hole. Rotate axle to check for additional set
Ratchet plates: Two plates engage and disengage screws!
11. [ ] Carefully note any washers (or an additional
each other by means of directional gear-teeth on their
spacer) located between axle spacers and
common faces. One plate engages the driver (freehub bearings, then bundle washers and/or spac-
body) by means of either internal or external splines. ers with corresponding axle spacers.
The other plate engages the hub shell by means of an 12. [ ] If axle spacers came off both sides and
external spline. A spiral coil spring presses against one are not identical, put a second bundle tie
of the plates to keep the plates in contact. through the right-side set to mark it.
Axle and freehub-body removal
GENERIC FREEHUB SERVICE 13. [ ] Inspect right end of axle for fixed spacer or
shoulder that would obstruct freehub body
PROCEDURE from sliding off end of axle.
The following procedure is suitable for many brands 14. [ ] No obstruction observed in step 13: Watch-
and models of freehubs with cartridge bearings. This ing carefully for loose pawls, springs,
includes Campagnolo, Hügi, Ringlé, White Industries, ratchet plates, spacer sleeves, and washers
and numerous others. Cartridge-bearing front hubs behind freehub body, pull freehub body out
and cartridge-bearing rear hubs that accept thread-on of hub shell. Separate pawls and springs,
ratchet plate(s) and spring, and spacer
freewheels are in the next section (page 13–11).
sleeves or washers from freehub body and/
Preparation or hub shell.
1. [
] Remove wheel from bicycle. Record quantity and location of any washers
2. [
] Remove QR from hub. or spacer sleeves here:
3. [
] Remove cassette (cogs). Washer(s): # _____ location_______________
4. [
] Disc brakes only: Remove disc (to prevent Spacer(s): # _____ location_______________
contamination, accidental bending, or injury For ratchet-plate mechanisms only, record
to hands from sharp disc edges). location and orientation of spiral spring here
5. [ ] Inspect axle spacers closely for wrench (check all that apply):
flats, internal hex fittings, and set screws. adjacent to hub shell [ ]
6. [ ] Inspect holes in ends of axle for internal hex adjacent to freehub body [ ]
fittings. small-end toward plate [ ]
large-end toward plate [ ]
Axle-spacer removal 15. [ ] Obstruction is observed in step 13: Skip
NOTE: Axle spacers may be different on each freehub-body removal until after axle
side, and different washers may be present on removal is completed.
each side. When removing spacers, keep track 16. [ ] Using finger pressure, try pushing axle out
of which side they came off of and whether right end of hub, then try pushing axle out
washers were present under spacers. left end of hub. If axle responds to finger
7. [ ] Press-on spacers only: Pull on spacer(s) to pressure, complete axle removal, then note
remove from axle. NOTE: Only if certain that which side axle came out of and which end
spacers are press on, use thin, flat screw- of axle (if not symmetrical) was on right side
driver to pry up stuck spacers! of hub.
8. [ ] Press-on spacers only: Inspect axle ends for Axle came out of: Right [ ] Left [ ]
O-rings, then remove any O-rings. Distinguishing feature: ____________________
13 – 7
17. [ ] Inspect faces of bearings for snap-rings, then 23. [ ] Inspect for presence of spacer sleeve (if any)
remove snap-rings with snap-ring pliers. Care- located between bearings. Remove sleeve
fully note locations snap-rings were found. now if either bearing has been removed.
18. [ ] If axle will not respond to finger pressure:
Place hub on support (left-side down, unless Axle spacer (threaded here,
fixed spacer is on right), gently tap on end of but may be press-on type)
axle with plastic mallet, then note which side
axle came out of and which end of axle (if Washer
not symmetrical) was on right side of hub.
Axle came out of: Right [ ] Left [ ]
Distinguishing feature: ____________________ Freehub mechanism
19. [ ] If freehub body is still attached to hub: Watch- (replace as a unit)
ing carefully for loose pawls, springs, ratchet
plates, spacer sleeves, and washers behind
freehub body, pull freehub body out of hub
shell. Separate pawls and springs, ratchet
Seal
plate(s) and spring, and spacer sleeves or
washers from freehub body and/or hub shell. Ratchet plate
Record quantity and location of any washers
or spacer sleeves here: Ratchet plate
Washer(s): # _____ location_______________
Spacer(s): # _____ location_______________ Axle
For ratchet-plate mechanisms only, record
location and orientation of spiral spring here Spacer sleeve
(check all that apply): Spring
adjacent to hub shell [ ]
adjacent to freehub body [ ]
small-end toward plate [ ] Cartridge bearing
large-end toward plate [ ]
20. [ ] Look for seal that may be located in right end Hub spline
of hub shell or on inside end of freehub body,
then inspect seal and remove if damaged.
Check seal location and orientation here:
In hub shell [ ] On freehub body [ ]
Flatter face out [ ] Flatter face in [ ]
Hub shell
Bearing removal from axle or hub shell
21. [ ] If bearing came out with axle (or bearing fell
out when axle was removed): Place bearing/
axle assembly in vise so bearing is resting
on top of vise, axle is loose (not clamped)
in vise, and short end of axle is pointing up.
Use plastic mallet to tap axle out of bearing.
Bearing information Axle
Side: Right Left (circle one) Cartridge bearing
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer notes: ___________________________ Dustcap
22. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Pull on bearing in either Axle spacer (press-on type)
side of hub with fingers to check for slip-fit
bearing, then remove bearing with fingers if
possible (watching for flat or wavy washers
behind bearings). Make notations (bearing
and washer locations, bearing dimensions, 13.4 Hügi freehub.
and 6xxx code numbers on seals).
Side: Right Left (circle one)
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer notes: ___________________________
13 – 8
24. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Pull on remaining bear-
ing in hub with fingers to check for slip-fit Axle spacer (threads on)
possible (watching for flat or wavy washers
behind bearings). Make notations (bearing Internal snap-ring
and washer locations, bearing dimensions, Cartridge bearing
and 6xxx code numbers on seals).
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________ Spacer sleeve
Washer notes: ___________________________
NOTE: See bearing-remover section of TOOL CHOICES Cartridge bearing
for bearing-remover tools and tool techniques.
25. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Engage bearing
extractor through outside face of bearing
(either side of hub). If tool requires impact
with mallet, place hub on support.
Freehub mechanism
26. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Remove bearing
from hub and look for flat or wavy wash-
ers located behind bearing, then make
notations (bearing and washer locations,
bearing dimensions, and 6xxx code num- Pawl
bers on seals).
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer notes: ___________________________
27. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Engage bearing Internal snap-ring
extractor to remaining bearing (if any) in
hub. If tool requires impact with mallet,
place hub on support.
28. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Remove bearing Axle
from hub and look for flat or wavy washers
located behind bearing, then make notations
(bearing and washer locations, bearing dimen-
sions, and 6xxx code numbers on seals).
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer notes: ___________________________ Ratchet ring
Bearing removal from freehub body Cartridge bearing

NOTE: Some manufacturers do not support replac-
ing bearings in freehub body and sell complete
freehub bodies only. Campagnolo and Hügi are
notable in this regard. Hub shell
29. [ ] Inspect freehub body for snap-rings
installed in front of any bearings, then
remove snap-rings.
30. [ ] Inspect freehub body to see if outer
race of bearings are visible from outer
end, inner end, or both ends. Bearings
Cartridge bearing
will remove from whichever end(s) outer
Internal snap-ring
race(s) are visible.
31. [ ] Place cassette cog onto freehub body for Axle spacer
additional support. (held in place by O-ring)
13.5 Ringlé freehub.
13 – 9
NOTE: See bearing-remover section of TOOL CHOICES
for bearing-remover tools and tool techniques. Adjustable axle spacer
32. [ ] Install bearing remover into outer face of
bearing being removed. If tool requires
impact with mallet, place freehub body in
vise jaws (resting on end of body or cog but
not clamped in vise).
33. [ ] Remove bearing from freehub body and look
for a sleeve or washers located behind bear- Axle collar (spacer)
ing, then make notations (bearing and washer
locations, sleeve location, bearing dimen- 2mm hex set screw (3)
sions, and 6xxx code numbers on seals).
Freehub-body end: Outer Inner (circle one) Set screw access hole
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer/sleeve notes: _____________________
34. [ ] Install bearing remover into outer face of Cartridge bearing
remaining bearing to be removed. If tool
requires impact with mallet, place freehub
body in vise jaws (resting on end of body or
cog but not clamped in vise). Hub shell
35. [ ] Remove bearing from freehub body and (cross section)
look for a sleeve or washers located behind
bearing, then make notations (bearing and
Axle assembly
washer locations, sleeve location, bearing
dimensions, and 6xxx code numbers on
Cartridge bearing
seals).
Ratchet ring
Freehub-body end: Outer Inner (circle one)
(sectioned)
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer/sleeve notes: _____________________
Thrust washer
Cleaning and inspection Cartridge bearing
36. [ ] Check all bearings for free play, tightness, or
roughness. If considering reusing any bear- Pawl Pawl
ings (discouraged), use seal pick to remove Driver
seals. NOTE: Keep bearings for now! O-ring seal
37. [ ] Clean all parts with solvent and dry thor-
oughly (cleaned cartridge bearings must be
dried with compressed air).
38. [ ] Inspect all threads for damage. Freehub body
39. [ ] Inspect all bearing mounts for corrosion and (splined)
for polishing (indicates bearings have been
moving inappropriately in mount; Loctite will
be needed for reinstallation).
40. [ ] If reusing any bearings, pack with grease
and press seals back in. Cartridge bearing
41. [ ] Use parts bundles and notes in removal
Spacer
steps to organize all parts in correct
sequences for left and right sides of hub and Fixed axle spacer
inner and outer ends of freehub body.
42. [ ] If replacing bearings, substitute new bear-
ings in parts layout for old bearings. 13.6 White Industries freehub.
Bearing installation into freehub body 43. [ ] Assemble freehub body, bearings, sleeves (if
NOTE: See bearing-installer section of TOOL CHOICES any), and washers (if any) in correct sequence
for guidelines and techniques for use of tools (noted in steps 33–35) on shaft of installer
to press in bearings. with appropriate pilots/washers in place.
Then, gently tighten tool until all parts are fully
seated. Remove freehub body from installer.
13 – 10
44. [ ] Snap-ring retention only: Identify flatter face 55. [ ] Smooth axle only: Install freehub body
of snap ring, then install into freehub body to hub shell. For pawl systems only, use
with flatter face out. NOTE: Press on snap- gentle inward pressure and counterclock-
ring to confirm it is fully seated. wise rotation to seat pawls (also try poking
pawls in individually). Alternatively, com-
Bearing installation into hub shell press pawls by wrapping with lightweight
NOTE: See bearing-installer section of TOOL CHOICES rubber band. Seat freehub body, then care-
for guidelines and techniques for use of tools fully remove rubber band.
to press in bearings. 56. [ ] Shouldered axle only: Place hub on support
45. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Grease all mounts, (side with bearing already installed facing
then install left-side bearings and washers down). Then, install axle (watch right/left
(if any), spacer sleeve (if any), and right-side orientation as noted in step 18) and tap axle
bearing and washers (if any) into hub shell. with plastic mallet until shoulder stops axle
46. [ ] Smooth-axle hubs only: Install left-side bear- installation.
ings and washers (if any), hub shell, and 57. [ ] Shouldered axle only: Place remaining hub
right-side bearings and washers (if any) onto bearing over end of axle, then use driver to
bearing installer, then gently tighten installer seat axle into hub shell. Install remaining
until all parts are fully seated. Remove hub snap-ring (if any).
from installer. 58. [ ] Shouldered axle only: Grease axle, then
47. [ ] Shouldered-axle hubs only: Install right-side install freehub body to axle. For pawl sys-
bearings and washers (if any) and hub shell tems only, use gentle inward pressure and
onto bearing installer, then gently tighten counterclockwise rotation to seat pawls
installer until all parts are fully seated. (also try poking pawls in individually). Alter-
Remove hub from installer. natively, compress pawls by wrapping with
48. [ ] Snap-ring retention only: Identify flatter face lightweight rubber band. Seat freehub body,
of snap ring(s), then install into hub shell then carefully remove rubber band.
against outer face of bearing(s) with flat-
ter face(s) out. NOTE: Press on snap-ring to Axle-spacer installation
confirm it is fully seated. 59. [ ] Thread-on axle spacers only: Treat axle
threads with oil, then thread on axle spacer(s).
Ratchet-mechanism assembly Use wrenches on both spacers, or on spacer
49. [ ] Pawl system only: Lubricate pawls and on one side and on axle on other side, to
springs with oil (oil can be heavy but grease secure spacers. Only in absence of manufac-
usually interferes with pawl action), then turer’s recommendations, torque to 60in-lbs.
install pawls and spring(s) to freehub body. 60. [ ] Set-screw axle spacers only: Grease protrud-
50. [ ] Ratchet-plate system only: Lubricate spiral ing axle, slide axle spacer(s) onto axle, then
spring and place in location and orientation gently secure set screw(s).
noted in step 14 or 19. 61. [ ] Press-on axle spacers only: Install O-rings
51. [ ] Ratchet-plate system only: Lubricate all (if any) to axle or inside of spacer, grease
surfaces on ratchet plates with light grease protruding axle ends, then press on axle
or heavy oil. Assemble ratchet mechanism spacer(s).
(plates, spacers, springs), in order noted in
step 14 or 19, to back face of freehub body. Completion
62. [ ] Grease freehub-body splines, then install
Axle and freehub-body installation cassette.
52. [ ] Install seal (if any) to hub shell or end of 63. [ ] Install QR mechanism.
freehub body (as noted in step 20). 64. [ ] Install wheel.
53. [ ] Smooth axle only: Grease axle and deter-
mine right/left orientation of axle (noted in
step 17).
54. [ ] Smooth axle only: Install axle into freehub
GENERIC FRONT HUB AND
body (watch right/left orientation of axle), FREEWHEEL HUB SERVICE
then install any spacers or washers noted in
steps 14 or 19 to axle.
PROCEDURE
This procedure works with most cartridge-bearing
front hubs and with cartridge-bearing rear hubs that
utilize a thread-on freewheel. Whichever type of hub is
being serviced, there is always the potential for differences
13 – 11
between the left and right side, so observations are just as Outer left-axle spacer
critical here as they are when servicing a freehub. (14mm cone wrench)
Preparation Washer
1. [
] Remove wheel from bicycle. Inner left-axle spacer
2. [
] Remove QR from hub. (5mm hex-key wrench)
3. [
] Rear hubs only: Remove thread-on freewheel.
4. [
] Disc brakes only: Remove disc (to prevent Axle (left end)
contamination, accidental bending, or injury Cartridge bearing
to hands from sharp disc edges).
Wavy washer
5. [ ] Inspect axle spacers closely for wrench
flats, internal hex fittings, and set screws.
6. [ ] Inspect holes in ends of axle for internal hex
Hub shell
fittings.
Axle-spacer removal Spacer sleeve
NOTE: Axle spacers may be different on each
side, and different washers may be present on
each side. When removing spacers, keep track
of which side they came off of and whether
washers were present under spacers. Wavy washer
7. [ ] Press-on spacers only: Pull on spacer(s) to
remove from axle. NOTE: Only if certain that Cartridge bearing
spacers are press on, use thin, flat screw- Axle (right end)
driver to pry up stuck spacers!
8. [ ] Press-on spacers only: Inspect axle ends for
Right axle spacer
O-rings, then remove any O-rings.
(5mm hex-key wrench)
9. [ ] Thread-on spacers only: Attach wrench to
spacers on both ends of axle (or spacer
on one end and axle on other end), then
unthread spacer(s). 13.7 Phil Wood FSA freehub.
10. [ ] Set-screw spacers only: Use hex key to
14. [ ] Inspect faces of bearings for snap-rings, then
loosen set screw(s) one full turn, then
remove snap-rings with snap-ring pliers. Care-
attempt to pull off spacer(s). If still stuck,
fully note locations snap-rings were found.
loosen set screw(s) another turn and try
15. [ ] If axle will not respond to finger pressure:
again. NOTE: Some hubs have multiple
Place hub on support (with fixed-spacer
set screws with access through a single
end of axle, if any, facing down). Gently
hole. Rotate axle to check for additional set
tap on end of axle with plastic mallet,
screws!
then note which side axle came out of and
11. [ ] Carefully note any washers located between
which end of axle (if not symmetrical) was
axle spacers and bearings, then bundle
on right side of hub.
washers with corresponding spacers.
12. [ ] If axle spacers came off both sides and
Distinguishing feature: ____________________
are not identical, put a second bundle tie
through the right-side set to mark it. Bearing removal from axle or hub shell
16. [ ] If bearing came out with axle (or bearing fell
Axle removal out when axle was removed): Place bearing/
13. [ ] Using finger pressure, try pushing axle out
axle assembly in vise so bearing is resting
right end of hub, then try pushing axle out
on top of vise, axle is loose (not clamped)
left end of hub. If axle responds to finger
in vise, and short end of axle is pointing up.
pressure, complete axle removal, then note
Use plastic mallet to tap axle out of bearing.
which side axle came out of and which
Bearing information
end of axle (if not symmetrical) was on
right side of hub.
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________
Washer notes: ___________________________
Distinguishing feature: ____________________
13 – 12
17. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Pull on bearing in 25. [ ] Clean all parts with solvent and dry thor-
either side of hub with fingers to check oughly (cleaned cartridge bearings must be
for slip-fit bearing, then remove bearing dried with compressed air).
with fingers if possible (watching for flat 26. [ ] Inspect all threads for damage.
or wavy washers behind bearings). Make 27. [ ] Inspect all bearing mounts for corrosion and
notations (bearing and washer locations, for polishing (indicates bearings have been
bearing dimensions, and 6xxx code num- moving inappropriately in mount; Loctite will
bers on seals). be needed for reinstallation).
Side: Right Left (circle one) 28. [ ] If reusing any bearings, pack with grease
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________ and press seals back in.
Washer notes: ___________________________ 29. [ ] Use parts bundles and notes in removal
18. [ ] Inspect for presence of spacer sleeve (if any), steps to organize all parts in correct
located between bearings. Remove sleeve sequences for left and right sides of hub and
now if either bearing has been removed. inner and outer ends of freehub body.
19. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Pull on remaining bear- 30. [ ] If replacing bearings, substitute new bear-
ing in hub with fingers to check for slip-fit ings in parts layout for old bearings.
possible (watching for flat or wavy washers Bearing installation into hub shell
behind bearings). Make notations (bearing NOTE: See bearing-installer section of TOOL CHOICES
and washer locations, bearing dimensions, for guidelines and techniques for use of tools
and 6xxx code numbers on seals). to press in bearings.
Side: Right Left (circle one) 31. [ ] Slip-fit bearings only: Grease all mounts,
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________ then install left-side bearings and washers
Washer notes: ___________________________ (if any), spacer sleeve (if any), and right-side
NOTE: See bearing-remover section of TOOL CHOICES bearing and washers (if any) into hub shell.
for bearing-remover tools and tool techniques. 32. [ ] Smooth-axle hubs only: Install left-side bear-
20. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Engage bearing ings and washers (if any), hub shell, and
extractor through outside face of bearing right-side bearings and washers (if any) onto
(either side of hub). If tool requires impact bearing installer, then gently tighten installer
with mallet, place hub on support. until all parts are fully seated. Remove hub
21. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Remove bearing from installer.
from hub and look for flat or wavy wash- NOTE: No bearing installers are compatible with
ers located behind bearing, then make 20mm thru-axles used on some MTBs. Typi-
notations (bearing and washer locations, cally, all the parts must be stacked up on the
bearing dimensions, and 6xxx code num- bench top in sequence, then impact (plastic
bers on seals). mallet) must be applied (directly or through a
Side: Right Left (circle one) customer driver) until all parts are seated.
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________ 33. [ ] Shouldered-axle hubs only: Install right-side
Washer notes: ___________________________ bearings and washers (if any) and hub shell
22. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Engage bearing onto bearing installer, then gently tighten
extractor to remaining bearing (if any) in installer until all parts are fully seated.
hub. If tool requires impact with mallet, Remove hub from installer.
place hub on support. 34. [ ] Snap-ring retention only: Identify flatter face
23. [ ] Press-fit bearings only: Remove bearing of snap ring(s), then install into hub shell
from hub and look for flat or wavy washers against outer face of bearing(s), with flat-
located behind bearing, then make notations ter face(s) out. NOTE: Press on snap-ring to
(bearing and washer locations, bearing dimen- confirm it is fully seated.
sions, and 6xxx code numbers on seals). Axle installation
Side: Right Left (circle one) 35. [ ] Smooth-axle hubs only: Grease axle and
O.D.: ________ I.D.: ________ Code: ________ install into hub (watch right/left orientation
Washer notes: ___________________________ of axle, as noted in step 13).
Cleaning and inspection 36. [ ] Shouldered-axle hubs only: Place hub on
support (side with bearing already installed
24. [ ] Check all bearings for free play, tightness,
or roughness. If considering reusing any facing down), then install axle (watch right/
bearings (discouraged), use seal pick to left orientation, as noted in step 15) and tap
remove seals. axle with plastic mallet until shoulder stops
axle installation.
13 – 13
37. [ ] Shouldered-axle hubs only: Place remaining Driveshell bushing: A long cylinder with a larger
hub bearing over end of axle, then use driver diameter at one end. It is labeled “driveshell bushing.”
to seat axle into hub shell. Install remaining Extension shaft: A threaded shaft with two thread
snap-ring (if any). diameters, ending in a knurled shaft at one end.
Axle-spacer installation Hub cone adjusting tool: A medium-length cyl-
38. [ ] Thread-on axle spacers only: Treat axle inder with four steel pins in a recess in one end. It is
threads with oil, then thread on axle spacer(s). labeled “hub cone adjusting tool.”
Use wrenches on both spacers, or on spacer Knurled ring: A ring with several steps of various
on one side and on axle on other side, to diameters on each face and with a knurled texture at the
secure spacers. Only in absence of manufac- outermost perimeter. It is labeled “knurled ring.”
turer’s recommendations, torque to 60in-lbs. Spline driver: A short cylinder with a square hole
39. [ ] Set-screw axle spacers only: Grease protrud-
in one face and a splined configuration in the opposite
ing axle, slide axle spacer(s) onto axle, then
gently secure set screw(s). face. It is labeled “spline driver.”
40. [ ] Press-on axle spacers only: Install O-rings Split rings: Two rings (large and small) split in
(if any) to axle or inside of spacer, grease half and held together by means of an O-ring in the
protruding axle ends, then press on axle groove in the outer perimeter of the ring. They are
spacer(s). labeled “lg split ring” and “sm split ring.”
T-handle: A large, stepped cylinder with a threaded
Completion shaft at one end and a handle inserted through a ball at the
41. [ ] Rear hub only: Grease freewheel threads,
then install freewheel. other end. It is labeled “T-handle.”
42. [ ] Install QR mechanism.
43. [ ] Install wheel.
PART TERMINOLOGY
Adjusting cone: A ring with four holes in its face
that resembles a dust cap, which is used to adjust the
CHRIS KING FREEHUBS bearing preload.
Axle end: A cap that threads onto the left end
This section applies specifically to the Chris King
of the axle.
MTB, road, and DiscGo-Tech rear hubs. Although not
Capture plate: A simple metal washer that keeps
specifically for the BMX hub, once you are familiar
the needle-bearing cage from moving out of the needle-
with the hubs covered here, the BMX hub should not
bearing race.
be a challenge to service.
Capture sleeve: A metal cylinder with one flat face
There are two levels of service possible. The basic
that keeps the needle-bearing cage from moving the other
service includes cleaning or replacement of drive mech-
way out of the needle-bearing race.
anisms and greasing of bearings. The full service adds
Drive ring: A ring that has teeth on one face and
to this bearing replacement and drive mechanism parts
helical splines on the inner perimeter.
replacement. The basic service requires one inexpensive
Drive side of hub shell: The side of the hub shell
special tool, the Hub Cone Adjusting Tool #77301. The
with the larger-diameter hole.
full service requires a complete Chris King Hub Service
Drive spring: A large-diameter spring that moves
Kit (number unavailable). Additionally, a 2–1/4" section
the drive ring.
of 2–1/4" I.D. PVC pipe and ordinary shop tools are
Driven ring: A ring that has teeth on one face
needed.
and splines on the outer perimeter.
Driveshell: A complexly shaped cylinder to which the
TOOL TERMINOLOGY cogs attach. When installed, it resembles a freehub body
The following tools are all part of the Chris King on a conventional freehub.
Hub Service Kit. Needle bearing: A bearing that is a cylinder
Cog spline wrench: A large-diameter ring with instead of a ball.
splines on the inner perimeter. It is labeled “cog spline Needle-bearing cage: A plastic cage of cylindrical
wrench.” shape that holds the needle bearings.
Cone washer: A steel washer with a conical face Needle-bearing race: A steel bearing surface in
on one side. the shape of a simple cylinder on which the needle
bearings roll.
13 – 14
Non-drive side of hub shell: The side of the hub 3. [ ] Pull driveshell and axle out drive side of hub
shell with the smaller-diameter hole. with firm counterclockwise twisting motion.
Plastic seal (small and large): A thin washer-like NOTE: Skip to step 7 if replacing bearings.
4. [ ] Insert tip of razor knife in diagonal split of
seal made of plastic that resembles a shim washer.
metal snap-ring in face of drive-side hub-shell
bearing to lift one end of ring, then pull snap
ring out of bearing. Repeat on non-drive side.
5. [ ] Use seal pick to lift soft, rubber seal out of
face of each bearing.
Driveshell bushing Spline Driver
Chris King recommends use of a light spray
lubricant instead of solvent when cleaning parts and
bearings to avoid any possibility of damaging plastic
and rubber parts with solvent.
6. [ ] Flush exposed bearings with light spray
lubricant and dry with compressed air. Use
light lubricant on brush to carefully clean
Hub cone adjusting tool
helical splines on driveshell and inside drive
Cog spline wrench
end of hub shell.
In the next step, removing the O-ring makes it easier
to pull the axle out, but it is not necessary. If you remove
Cone washer Lg split ring Sm split ring it, take care not to lose it and to remember to replace it.
7. [ ] Remove small O-ring from non-drive end
of axle, then push axle out large end of
driveshell.
Extension shaft NOTE: Skip to step 35 if not replacing bearings.
Non-drive-side bearing removal
In the next step, the split ring, extension shaft,
and cone washer are assembled to the T-handle. If the
T-handle extension shaft is threaded in too much, the split ring
is expanded and will not pass through the bearing. The
small split ring is not symmetrical, so observe which
face of the ring is a larger diameter.
8. [ ] Place small split ring (large-diameter-face
first) on small end of extension shaft, place
Knurled ring cone washer (cone-side first) against split
ring, then thread extension shaft fully into
13.8 The Chris King hub tool set. end of T-handle without expanding split ring.
RingDrive: The Chris King name for the free- 9. [ ] Insert T-handle through drive side of hub.
wheeling design that is used in these hubs instead of a The knurled ring is a complexly shaped tool with
conventional pawl and ratchet-ring design. several steps or shoulders of various diameters on each
Seal ring: A ring that is threaded on the outside, of its faces. The purpose of the configuration is to insure,
splined on the inside, and has a blue rubber seal installed if properly oriented, that the knurled ring acts somewhat
in one face. like a pilot to align the bearing and the T-handle. Another
Spring retainer: A flat, metal ring that has a slight function of the knurled ring, achieved by threading it on
taper to one face and a clear step-down in diameter on the recommended amount, is to set the depth of the split
the other face, which supports the drive spring. ring so that when the split ring is expanded, it is in the cor-
rect position relative to the bearing. If the wrong end of
the knurled ring is threaded on first, then the number of
FULL HUB SERVICE turns will not work to correctly position the split ring.
Axle and bearing-seal removal 10. [ ] Thread knurled ring, big-end first, fully onto
extension shaft, then back off exactly seven
1. [ ] Remove cogs.
2. [ ] Insert a 5mm hex key in each end of axle, full turns.
then unthread left-side axle-end/adjusting- A sure sign in the next step that the knurled
cone assembly. ring has been threaded on the wrong amount is that
13 – 15
the T-handle gets tight in a fraction of a turn when
tightening it to expand the split ring. If this happens,
loosen the T-handle and unthread the knurled ring
about one turn, then try again.
11. [ ] Pull tool assembly out drive side of hub until
knurled ring seats against hub. Then, hold
extension shaft stationary and turn T-handle
Axle
clockwise until split ring is fully expanded.
12. [ ] Turn knurled ring fully clockwise.
13. [ ] Tap on T-handle tool with plastic mallet to
drive bearing out non-drive side of hub.
14. [ ] Unthread knurled ring, then remove (in
order) non-drive-side bearing and small plas-
tic seal.
15. [ ] Unthread extension shaft and remove tools
from hub. Seal ring
Capture plate
Drive-side bearing removal Needle-bearing cage
16. [ ] Place large split ring on small end of
Needle-bearing race
extension shaft, place cone washer (cone-
side first) against split ring, then thread Capture sleeve
extension shaft fully into end of T-handle Bearing
without expanding split ring. Plastic seal
17. [ ] Insert T-handle into non-drive side of hub.
18. [ ] Thread knurled ring (big-end first) onto
extension shaft exactly three full turns. Driveshell
19. [ ] Pull tool assembly out non-drive side of hub
until knurled ring seats against hub, then hold
extension shaft stationary and turn T-handle
clockwise until split ring is fully expanded.
20. [ ] Turn knurled ring fully clockwise.
In the next two steps, as the bearing is pressed out Bearing
there are a number of other parts that will come out Plastic seal
simultaneously. The setup of the tool is designed to Driven ring
insure that all the parts come out together, trapped Drive ring
on the tool in the order they are installed in the hub
shell. By following the directions closely, it is pos- Drive spring
sible to then take these numerous parts off the tool
in order, so as to become familiar with the sequence Spring retainer
and orientations of the parts.
21. [ ] With drive side of hub supported on PVC
pipe, tap on T-handle tool with plastic mallet Hub shell
to drive bearing out drive side of hub.
22. [ ] Unthread knurled ring, then remove (in
order) drive-side bearing, large plastic seal,
driven ring (externally splined), drive ring
(internally splined), drive spring, and spring
retainer.
Plastic seal
23. [ ] Unthread extension shaft and remove tools Bearing
from hub.
Adjusting cone
Axle end
13.9 The Chris King cassette hub.
13 – 16
Driveshell disassembly wrong lubricant can make the RingDrive non-functional.

In the next step, the driveshell is inserted in the cog The recommended grease is very light and, in its absence,
spline wrench and both are grasped in the vise. There Chris King recommends a high-quality 10W oil, never
is no need for high force when closing the vise, and the another grease! When greasing the bearings, it is critical
tools and parts could easily be damaged by excess force. to use a moderate amount. Too much grease will make it
Consider the side of the tool with writing to be the front impossible to seat the rubber seal and snap ring.
NOTE: Skip to step 39 if replacing bearings.
face and the blank side to be the back face.
35. [ ] Place small bead of Chris King grease one-
24. [ ] Insert driveshell into back face of cog spline
half to two-thirds of the way around inside
wrench, then gently secure flats of wrench
of hub-shell bearings.
in vise.
36. [ ] Place rubber seals over grease and carefully
25. [ ] Place spline driver on 3/8" drive wrench,
seat between inner and outer races.
then use spline driver to unthread seal ring
37. [ ] Engage one end of split ring in groove
from driveshell.
between inner and outer races, then work all
26. [ ] Remove capture plate, then needle-bearing
the way around, seating split ring into bear-
cage from driveshell with your fingers (needle-
ing. Repeat for other bearing.
bearing race and capture sleeve remain in
38. [ ] Use finger to separate drive rings and put
driveshell).
bead of Chris King grease in gap between
The previous step says that the needle-bearing race
drive rings. Release ring, then smear excess
and capture sleeve remain in the driveshell. In some grease over helical splines.
cases, in the next step they may be loose and prone to NOTE: Skip to step 56 if not replacing bearings.
falling out without encouragement. If this is the case,
it is fine to let them come out at this time. Non-drive-side bearing installation
27. [ ] Remove cog spline wrench from vise, All three bearing cartridges are non-symmetrical.
remove driveshell from cog spline wrench, Upon examining the hole in each of the three bearing
then reinsert driveshell into front face of cog cartridges, it can be seen that one end of the hole is
spline wrench. tapered inside. When each bearing is installed, be sure
28. [ ] Place small split ring (large-diameter-end to note which way this “internally tapered end” should
first) on small end of extension shaft, place face. Failure to orient the bearings correctly will make it
cone washer (cone-side first) against split impossible to complete the hub assembly and also makes
ring, then thread extension shaft fully into
it extremely difficult to remove the bearing without dam-
end of T-handle without expanding split ring.
29. [ ] Insert T-handle through small end of driveshell. aging the plastic seal that sits behind each bearing. In all
30. [ ] Thread knurled ring (small-end first) onto three cases, the correct bearing orientation is such that
extension shaft exactly 2–1/2 turns, then the tapered end of the hole ends up facing out from the
pull tool through driveshell until large shoul- center of the hub.
der on face of knurled ring seats inside end 39. [ ] Holding T-handle threaded-end up, place
of driveshell. small bearing (internally tapered-end first)
31. [ ] Holding extension shaft stationary, turn onto T-handle, then place small plastic seal
T-handle clockwise until split ring is fully on top of bearing.
expanded, then turn knurled ring fully clock- In the following bearing installation, as well as all
wise. the other bearing installations, the correct orientation
32. [ ] Grasp flats of cog spline wrench in vise, of the knurled ring is critical in two respects. First,
then tap on T-handle with plastic mallet to the knurled ring must face the correct way so that
drive bearing parts out bottom of driveshell. the intended surface on the hub shell or driveshell
33. [ ] Remove cog spline wrench from vise,
supports the high load of pressing in the bearings and
unthread knurled ring from extension shaft,
then remove (in order) needle-bearing race, so that the knurled ring serves its purpose of aligning
capture sleeve, bearing, and small plastic seal. everything. Second, the knurled ring needs to be cor-
34. [ ] Unthread extension shaft and remove all rectly seated against the supporting surface. If these
tools from driveshell. cautions are not observed, the supporting surface and
the bearing counterbore can easily be damaged while
Bearing and RingDrive lubrication pressing the bearings.
Chris King makes special grease for use in the Chris
King hubs. Although deviation from the recommended
grease may not be as critical inside the ball bearings, the
13 – 17
40. [ ] With T-handle tool held threaded-end up, step, and it will be unnecessary to use the seal ring as an
place hub shell (non-drive side first) over installation press for these parts.
tool, then thread knurled ring (large-end first) 52. [ ] Place capture sleeve (flat face facing out)
onto T-handle. and needle-bearing race into large end of
By Chris King’s recommendation, a seemingly driveshell. If necessary, use spline driver and
redundant process is used when seating each bearing. seal ring to seat needle-bearing race fully,
The company’s position is that this process insures then remove seal ring.
proper bearing alignment. This is why the next step 53. [ ] Insert driveshell into back face of cog spline
includes tightening the T-handle twice. wrench, then gently secure cog spline
41. [ ] Tighten T-handle until bearing seats fully. wrench in vise.
Loosen T-handle, rotate knurled ring 180° 54. [ ] Grease needle-bearing cage with Chris King
either way, then secure T-handle again. grease, then insert needle-bearing cage and
Remove tools. capture plate into driveshell.
55. [ ] Thread seal ring into driveshell, then secure
Drive-side bearing and RingDrive to 100in-lbs. Remove driveshell from tools.
installation Axle assembly and adjustment
42. [ ] Check that O-ring is in place inside inner 56. [ ] Insert axle into large end of driveshell until
perimeter of spring retainer, then install it seats with a “pop,” then put small O-ring
spring retainer in drive side of hub so that back onto threaded end of axle.
stepped face faces out drive side of hub. 57. [ ] Insert axle/driveshell assembly into drive
43. [ ] Insert drive spring in drive side of hub. side of hub with a clockwise rotation and a
44. [ ] Use Chris King grease to lubricate toothed forceful push, until it seats with a “pop.”
face and helical spline of drive ring (inter- 58. [ ] Put 5mm hex key in vise, end pointing up,
nally splined), then insert ring so teeth face then place right end of axle onto hex key.
out drive side of hub. 59. [ ] Thread adjusting cone fully onto axle end,
45. [ ] Insert driven ring (externally splined) tooth- then thread assembly onto left end of axle
face first into hub so splines engage hub (do not secure).
shell splines.
Like all other hubs that utilize quick-release retention,
46. [ ] Place large plastic seal over driven ring, then
insert large bearing so internally tapered end
the axle of a Chris King hub compresses when the wheel
faces out of hub. is installed in the dropouts and the quick release is prop-
47. [ ] Insert T-handle through non-drive side of erly secured. Unlike conventional hubs, it is not possible to
hub, then thread knurled ring (large-end first) simulate this compressive load at the same time as making
onto T-handle and against face of bearing. the adjustment, so it is necessary to use a trial and error
48. [ ] Tighten T-handle until bearing seats fully. process of adjustment, starting with an adjustment that
Loosen T-handle, rotate knurled ring 180° is clearly too loose, then making fine adjustments until
either way, then secure T-handle again. the looseness just disappears once the wheel is correctly
Remove tools. installed in the bike.
Driveshell assembly 60. [ ] Holding axle end stationary, rotate adjust-
49. [ ] Holding T-handle threaded-end up, place ing cone clockwise until contact is felt, then
onto threaded end (in order) driveshell bush- rotate counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Stabilize
ing (small-end first), small bearing (internally adjusting cone while gently securing axle
tapered-end first), small plastic seal, and end.
driveshell (large-end first). 61. [ ] Place wheel in frame and correctly secure
50. [ ] Thread on knurled ring (large-end first) until quick release, then check for knock by
it seats over end of driveshell. jerking laterally on rim. (If no knock is felt
51. [ ] Tighten T-handle until bearing seats fully. the first time this step is attempted, redo
Loosen T-handle, rotate knurled ring 180° step 60 with a slightly looser starting
either way, then secure T-handle again. adjustment.)
Remove tools. 62. [ ] If knock is felt, remove wheel and put right
If the needle-bearing race did not fall out while dis- end of axle back on hex key in vise.
63. [ ] While stabilizing adjusting cone, loosen axle
assembling the driveshell assembly, the following step will
end, then turn adjusting cone a few degrees
be needed in full to install the capture sleeve and needle- clockwise and secure axle end. Repeat check
bearing race. If they did fall out during disassembly, the in step 61 and stop if knock is eliminated.
two parts should simply slip into place during the next
13 – 18
14 – ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP PEDALS
Ball bearings
Cup
Roller-bearing cage
Pedal body
Pedal axle
Snap-ring
Ball bearings
Cup Retention
mechanism
Locknut
Cup-wrench flats
Locknut
Cone
Bearing-cylinder
Retention mechanism
Pedal body
Splined fitting
Pedal axle
LIMITATIONS 14 – 2
MAINTENANCE CYCLES 14 – 2
ADJUSTABLE-CONE PEDALS 14 – 4
PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS 14 – 4
PEDAL REMOVAL AND PRELIMINARY INSPECTION 14 – 5
ACCESS PEDAL BEARING 14 – 5
DISASSEMBLE BEARING 14 – 5
INSPECTION 14 – 6
ASSEMBLY 14 – 7
PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT 14 – 7
FINAL ADJUSTMENT 14 – 7
INSTALL PEDAL 14 – 8
ADJUSTABLE-CUP PEDALS 14 – 8
PEDAL REMOVAL AND PRELIMINARY INSPECTION 14 – 8
DISASSEMBLE BEARING 14 – 8
INSPECTION 14 – 8
ASSEMBLY 14 – 9
BEARING ADJUSTMENT 14 – 9
ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP-PEDAL TROUBLESHOOTING 14 – 11
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Pedal cage: The one-piece or two-piece plate of

metal that is on the front and back, or just the back, of
This chapter is about pedals with conventional bear-
the pedal. The pedal cage supports the shoe and may be
ings. Conventional bearing systems have loose balls, cones,
the point to which a toe clip mounts.
and cups. Most pedals use an adjustable cone threaded on
Retention mechanism: This mechanism is similar to
the end of the pedal axle. These closely resemble hubs in
a ski binding. Usually by means of springs, the retention
principle. Another variety uses an adjustable cup threaded
mechanism engages some sort of clip to the cleat that is
into the pedal body. These closely resemble adjustable-cup
attached to the rider’s shoe.
bottom brackets in principle. This chapter has separate
procedures for service of these two types, which are called
“Adjustable-cone” pedals and “Adjustable-cup” pedals. Pedal cage
A troubleshooting chart that covers both of these pedal
Dustcap
types follows at the end of the chapter.
Locknut
Keyed lock washer
GENERAL INFORMATION Cone
Cup
TERMINOLOGY
Bearing-cylinder: A complete bearing-system hous-
ing that is cylindrically shaped and includes two cup races.
When the bearing-cylinder is assembled to the axle with Pedal body
cones and bearings, it is a complete bearing unit that can
be inserted and removed from the pedal body with the
bearings intact.
Pedal axle
Cone: A surface that bearings roll on that is positioned
inside the circle of balls. A pedal cone may be a built-in Cup
feature on an axle, or it may thread onto an axle.
Cup: A surface that bearings roll on that is positioned Seal
outside the circle of balls. A cup may be pressed perma-
nently into the pedal body or it may be threaded into the
pedal body.
Dustcap: A piece of plastic, metal, or rubber that
threads or presses onto the outer end of the pedal body to
cover the hole through which the bearings are accessed.
Locknut: A nut that threads onto an axle against a 14.1 Diagram of a common adjustable-cone pedal.
threaded-on cone to lock the position of the cone relative
to the axle, or it may thread onto a threaded-in cup against Spline: A cylindrical fitting that has alternating ribs
the pedal body to lock the position of the cup relative to and grooves on its surface that are parallel to the axis of
the pedal body. the cylinder. Splines are usually engaged by a tool with the
Pedal axle: The shaft that threads into the crank arm opposite spline pattern. A spline is used as an alternative
and about which the pedal rotates. to a standard six- or eight-sided wrench fitting.
Pedal body: The main structure of the pedal. The
pedal body includes the housing for the bearings and can
also include a pedal cage or a retention mechanism.
14 – 1
the procedural steps are somewhat more generalized and
may not apply directly to the make and model of pedal
Locknut
being serviced.
Cone
This chapter does not cover pedal installation or
bearing service on cartridge-bearing pedals. See PEDAL
Bearing-cylinder REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION (page 24-3)
or CARTRIDGE-BEARING PEDALS (page 15-1).
Retention mechanism
PREREQUISITES
Pedal removal and installation
It is optional, but strongly recommended, to remove
Pedal body the pedals from the crank arm to service the bearings. The
procedures are written as though the pedals are removed
from the crank arms. It is strongly recommended to
overhaul only one pedal at a time, so as not to mix parts
Splined fitting
between pedals.
Pedal axle Other prerequisites
It is optional, but recommended, to be familiar with
servicing hubs and/or bottom brackets. Due to the greater
variation in design of pedals, the following instructions are
14.2 Diagram of a adjustable-cone pedal with bearing generalized to a greater degree than other bearing service
unit removable from pedal body. information in this book. If already familiar with servic-
ing other bearings, then apply that sense of knowledge
about the other bearings to the variations that might be
encountered with pedals. This keeps the more generalized
instructions for pedals from being a handicap.
Ball bearings
Cup
Roller-bearing cage
INDICATIONS
There are several reasons pedals require an overhaul
and several reasons they require adjustment. An overhaul
Pedal body should be done as part of a regular maintenance cycle, the
duration of which will change depending on the type of
Pedal axle
riding, the amount of riding, and the type of equipment.
Snap-ring Adjustments should be done on the basis of need.
Ball bearings Maintenance cycles
If starting out with pedals(s) known to be in good
Cup Retention
mechanism condition with good quality grease, they should be able to
Locknut be ridden thousands of miles without needing an overhaul.
Cup-wrench flats If the equipment sees little wet-weather riding, then an
appropriate maintenance cycle would be 2,000–3,000 miles
in most cases. If a lot of wet-condition riding is done, then
the maintenance cycle might need to be as often as every
14.3 Diagram of an adjustable-cup pedal. 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether being ridden or not, so
another factor is how long the bike may be sitting before
it will be used again; for example, if the bike is ridden 200
miles in the rain in the fall, then put away four months for
LIMITATIONS the winter, it would be a good idea to overhaul the pedal(s)
The design of pedals varies more than conventional before putting the bike away.
hub, bottom bracket, and headset bearings. For this reason,
14 – 2
Some other factors affecting pedal maintenance cycles Symptoms indicating need of adjustment
are whether there is grease injection and whether there The primary symptom that will be experienced indi-
are seal mechanisms. Grease-injection systems do not eliminate cating that pedal(s) needs adjustment is looseness in the
the need for overhaul. Grease injection only increases the bearings. This can be detected by grasping the pedal and
acceptable time between overhauls. Grease-injection sys- jerking it side to side while feeling for a knocking sensa-
tems are only as good as the customer is consistent and tion. Inspect for loose bearings and loose locknuts every
thorough about pumping in new grease. Seal mechanisms 300–500 miles. The only way to check for a loose locknut is
(conventional bearings with rubber seals between the cone to put a tool on the locknut and see if it is secure. Another
and dustcaps) are not effective water-tight seals. Their effective- possible symptom indicating need to adjust the pedal(s) is
ness varies with the brand and model. At best, they can that the pedals simply feel tight when removed and the axle
lengthen the acceptable time between overhauls. With seal is turned. If tightness is felt when rotating the pedal body
mechanisms or grease-injection systems, the best policy on its axle while the pedal is attached to the crank arm, the
is to initially overhaul the pedal(s) on a normal-length bearing is extremely tight.
maintenance cycle, and if the grease is found to be in One other case in which pedal-bearing adjustment
is recommended is on any new bike. Most retail outlets
good condition, extend the cycle the next time.
assume the factory has done the job correctly and don’t
Symptoms indicating need of overhaul check the adjustment. Factory adjustments are not very
What symptom would lead to feeling that the pedal(s) reliable. Hubs may be completely worn out after as little
should be overhauled? One is that when performing an as 1,000 miles of use, due to poor factory setup.
adjustment, the looseness (free play) in the bearings cannot
be eliminated without the bearing becoming excessively
tight (does not turn smoothly). The lack of smoothness
TOOL CHOICES
The design or brand of pedal(s) will determine the
could be caused by dry grease, contaminated grease, or worn tools needed. The following list covers tools for adjustable-
parts. Another symptom indicating a need for overhaul is cone/cup pedals only.
that when removing the pedal and rotating the axle, the end In addition to these specialized tools, a variety of
of the axle oscillates, indicating a bent axle (which should spanners used on brakes, hubs, and bottom brackets are
always be replaced). needed for the cones and adjustable cups. These include
the Park HCW-3, Park OBW-1, Park OBW-2, and 14–
17mm cone wrenches.
ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP-PEDAL BEARING TOOLS (table 14-1)
Campagnolo 7130025 Campy adjustable-cup “three-bearing” models called TBS, SGR, Record, and
Croce deAune
Campagnolo 7130034 Campagnolo QR pedals with removable bearing unit
Campagnolo 710 Dustcap spanner for classic Campagnolo Nuovo Record and Super Record road
quill-style pedals
Park HCW3 25mm bottom-bracket adjustable-cup spanner for Shimano adjustable-cup models
with 25mm locknut, including Ultegra PD-6400, 105 PD-1050, Exage PD-A450,
PD-A550
Look Moab Tool Bearing-unit-removal tool for accessing bearings on Look pedals
Shimano TL-SH-PD73 Socket-in-socket tool required for Shimano adjustable-cone pedals with no lock
washer between locknut and cone, including BMX and downhill models
washer between locknut and cone, including Deore XT PD-M735, Deore DX PD-
M650, PD-M525, Ultegra PD-6402, PD-A525
Shimano TL-SH-PD40 Bearing-unit-removal tool for accessing bearings on following models: Dura-Ace
PD-7410, Ultegra PD-6400, Ultegra PD-6401, Ultegra PD-6402, 105SC PD-1055,
105SC PD-1056, PD-M737, PD-M525, PD-A525, and any other models w/
20.7mm-diameter 10-tooth spline just outward of the mounting-wrench flats
Shimano TL-SH-PD30 Lockring tool for adjustable-cup models including Dura-Ace PD-7400 and Dura-Ace
PD 7401, or any other model with an eight-face locknut with concave faces
14 – 3
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING section is the ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP-PEDALS TROUBLE-

SHOOTING table that applies to both styles of pedals.
Overhauling a pedal, including pedal removal, disas-
sembly, cleaning, assembly, and bearing adjustment, is a
20–30 minute job of moderate difficulty. Double this for
two pedals. Adjusting the pedal alone is a 5–8 minute job
of moderate difficulty.
ADJUSTABLE-CONE PEDALS
COMPLICATIONS PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS
The most common type of pedal has an adjustable
Limited parts availability cone. This adjustable cone is located at the outside end
Many pedals have limited parts availability or no parts of the axle. All traditional pedals have a dustcap that
availability. This is because the value of the labor required can be removed at the outside end of the pedal. If there
to service the pedal often exceeds the replacement value is such a dustcap, then it is certain that the pedal is an
of the pedal. Before beginning service of a pedal, make adjustable-cone type.
sure there is a source for parts.
Damaged body parts Wrench flats for
Pedals are extremely exposed to damage. If the main pedal removal
structure of the pedal is damaged, there is usually no point
in overhauling the pedal. If body parts are loose and can-
not be tightened, it will interfere with checking whether
the bearing adjustment is loose.
Mixing left and right pedal parts
Parts are often similar, but not interchangeable,
between left and right pedals. Even experienced mechanics Splined fitting for
do not overhaul pedals frequently, so it is a good idea to bearing-unit removal
have only one pedal apart at a time, to eliminate any possi-
SHIMANO CAMPAGNOLO
bility of mixing parts between the left and right pedals.
Trial-and-error adjustments
Unlike bottom brackets, headsets, and hubs, there is 14.4 Shimano and Campagnolo adjustable-cone pedals
no convenient way to mark and calibrate the increments of that have removable bearing-cylinders.
adjustment when adjusting a pedal bearing; furthermore,
Shimano and Campagnolo make pedals that have
there is usually no way to hold the cone while securing
adjustable cones but no dustcap on the outside end of the
the locknut, making the adjustment a frustrating trial-and-
pedal. This includes all Shimano “SPD”-type pedals and
error process.
all “Look-retention-system-compatible” models except
Dura-Ace. Specific Shimano models include Dura-Ace
ABOUT THE REST model PD-7410; Ultegra models PD-6400, PD-6401,
OF THIS CHAPTER and PD-6402; 105SC models PD-1055 and PD-1056;
model PD-A525; and off-road models PD-M737 and
There are three sections to the rest of this chapter:
PD-M525. The distinguishing characteristic of these
The first section is ADJUSTABLE-CONE PEDALS, which
above-listed Shimano models and any unlisted Shimano
starts with a description of the type of pedals this section
models is that on the inside face of the pedal body there is
covers, some common models and styles, what to look
a 10-spline, 20.6mm cylinder. This spline rotates with the
for if uncertain about the type of pedals being serviced,
pedal body. The Campagnolo pedals of this type are the
and a list of some particular styles this section does not
“Look-retention-system-compatible” QR models includ-
cover; the second section is ADJUSTABLE-CUP PEDALS,
ing Record. The distinguishing Campagnolo feature is an
which begins with a description of the type of pedals it
octagonal-splined fitting on the inside face of the pedal
covers, some common models and styles, what to look for
body, measuring 21mm across the flats. This octagonal
if uncertain about the type of pedals being serviced, and
fitting rotates with the pedal body.
a list of some particular styles it does not cover; the third
14 – 4
Shimano and Campagnolo both make pedals that have each overhaul will have to be done all over again (at best);
no dustcap on the outside end and are not the adjustable- at worst, getting the parts mixed up between left and right
cone type. The distinguishing feature in each case is that pedals will damage some parts.
there are places to put two different spanners on the inside If there is access to the adjustable cone through a
face of the pedal body. These two fittings both rotate with dustcap on the outside end, then the cups will be pressed
the pedal body and are in addition to the wrench fitting that directly into the pedal body. If the pedal is the type that has
is on the pedal axle used to install and remove the pedal bearings accessed by threading an assembly out of the pedal
from the crank arm. All of these have an adjustable cup body, then the cups will be at either end of a cylinder that
that fits a 15mm or 17mm cone wrench and a locknut of rotates on the pedal axle. This “bearing-cylinder” will not be
a much larger size threaded onto the cup. evident until the bearings have been accessed. After accessing
the bearings, there is no great difference in how to treat each
Wrench flats for system. The only difference will be the terminology used to
pedal removal refer to the piece that includes the bearing cups and either the
pedal body or the bearing-cylinder. From this point on, the
portion including the bearing cups will be called the “pedal
body/bearing-cylinder.”
There is one optional difference about how to treat
the pedals with a bearing-cylinder design. Instead of
Bearing cup overhauling this type of pedal to clean and grease the
wrench flats bearings, it is possible to pump fresh grease into the
Locknuts bearings without any further disassembly. In order to
do this, a grease gun and a piece of flexible hose that
SHIMANO CAMPAGNOLO
fits snugly over the bearing-cylinder are needed. Attach the
hose to the grease gun and to the outer end of the bearing-
cylinder, then pump grease through the bearing-cylinder until
14.5 Shimano and Campagnolo adjustable-cup pedals. nothing but clean grease comes out the other end. The
only disadvantage to this shortcut is that the ball bearings
Look makes a pedal that is similar in appearance and cannot be replaced; usually the other parts that could be
external configuration to the Shimano and Campagnolo accessed by full disassembly are not available.
models. It has no dustcap on the outside end of the pedal, 3. [ ] If pedal has dustcap on outside end unthread
but once the pedal-axle assembly is extracted from the or pry out dustcap.
pedal body, it will be found to have cartridge bearings 4. [ ] If pedal has no dustcap on outside end and
instead of adjustable-cone/cup bearings. is a Shimano, use TL-PD40 to remove bear-
NOTE: If just adjusting pedal bearings and not ing assembly from pedal body. Use large
overhauling them, skip to step 33. adjustable wrench to turn TL-PD40 counter-
clockwise on left-side pedals or clockwise
on right-side pedals.
PEDAL REMOVAL 5. [ ] If pedal has no dustcap on outside end and is
a Campagnolo, use Campagnolo 7130034 to
AND PRELIMINARY remove bearing assembly from pedal body.
INSPECTION Turn tool counterclockwise on left-side ped-
als or clockwise on right-side pedals.
1. [ ] Do steps 1–6 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-3).
2. [ ] Spin pedal axles and observe whether there
is any oscillation in the end of the pedal
DISASSEMBLE BEARING
The pedal axle must be held securely from rotating
axles, indicating that they are bent.
while removing the locknut/cone and when adjusting the
bearing later.
ACCESS PEDAL BEARING 6. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise,
using soft jaws to protect threads from steel
It is strongly recommend from this point on that only
jaws of vise.
one pedal is disassembled at a time. There are parts that
are unique to each pedal. If both pedals are disassembled Step #7 measures the offset (if any) between the end
at the same time and parts get mixed from right to left, of the pedal spindle and the face of the locknut. If you lose
track of bearing size, a guess must be made. If the guess is
14 – 5
wrong or if the pedal gets assembled with bearings out of The bearing cups are supposed to be permanently
position, it will show up as a change in this number after pressed into the pedal body (except bearing-cylinder types).
putting the pedal back together. Occasionally, they work loose. If not inspected for, this
7. [ ] Use depth gauge of caliper to measure off- looseness might cause considerable trouble later when try-
set between upper end of pedal axle and ing to eliminate play when making the adjustment. Firmly
face of locknut and record here: ______ mm press a finger into a cup and try to force it to rotate. If
8. [ ] Hold cone stationary with cone wrench or it does rotate, it must be fixed. Drip Loctite 290 around
special tool while breaking loose locknut
the edge of the cup to fix a loose cup. This substance is
with adjustable wrench or fit wrench.
9. [ ] Thread parts off pedal axle and onto bundling designed to penetrate and flow behind the cup and then
tie while maintaining order and orientation. cure to lock the part securely in place.
There are no standards for bearing quantities and 16. [ ] Inspect pressed-in cups for looseness. See
if they rotate or jiggle. Good? Bad?
sizes in pedals. There are usually different quantities in
By design, bearing cups wear out long after the cones
each cup, and there may be different sizes. Step #10 keeps
have worn out. This is good because they cannot be replaced.
track of the first set of balls encountered, so that there is
A new pedal or axle assembly is needed. Check for cup wear
no need to rely on trial-and-error when assembling. Step
by looking in the cups for the wear line left by the balls. Trace
#11 records similar information for the second set of
this wear line with the tip of a ball point pen. If the pen snags
bearings encountered.
10. [ ] Use magnet to remove bearings from outer on anything, the cup is shot.
bearing cup. Count and measure ball-bearing 17. [ ] Trace ball path in cups with a ball point pen
size and record here: to check for pits. Good? Bad?
Outer-bearing quantity __________ If the cups were worn out, the cones are virtually
Outer-bearing size __________ mm certain to be. If not, be sure to check the cones carefully
11. [ ] Lift pedal body/bearing-cylinder off axle, so that a worn-out one will not damage a cup, leading to
cupping hand below pedal to catch interior a pedal replacement. One cone is threaded off the out-
ball bearings. Count and measure ball-bearing side end of the pedal axle. The other cone is built into
size and record here: the pedal axle and is only replaceable if the pedal axle is
Inner-bearing quantity __________ replaceable. Cones wear out by developing pits (galling).
Inner-bearing size __________ mm Find the shiny wear line left by the balls on the conical
Rubber seals on pedal bodies or axle cones may rotate portion of the cone. Trace this wear line with the tip of
relative to the part they are attached to. Seal effectiveness can a ball point pen to check for pits.
be improved and seal drag reduced by lubricating between 18. [ ] Trace ball path on cones with a ball point
the seal and what it is attached to, so seals will be removed pen to check for pits. Good? Bad?
at this time to enable greasing later. Seals can possibly be Next, inspect the axle for bends. This inspection was
re-installed backward, so note their orientation if removing already done in step #2, but this is another way of looking
them from a dustcap or simply leave them on the bundle at the axle and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth
if removing them from a cone. surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter
12. [ ] Remove rubber seals, if any, from pedal top. Look under the axle as it rolls for a humping up and
body (note orientation) or axle cone. down that indicates it is bent. A bent axle is an axle in the
13. [ ] Pry dustcaps out of inside face of pedal
process of breaking and should be replaced.
body unless damage is likely. Were
19. [ ] Inspect for a bent axle. Good? Bad?
dustcaps very loose? Yes? No? (circle
one) Some axles have slots along their length. A tab on the
14. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of pedal. lock washer engages the slot. The function of the tab is
to enable adjusting of the pedal without a cone wrench, a
necessity in some cases; however, the washer often rotates
INSPECTION around the axle and the tab damages the threads as well
Pedal-body damage that will affect the bearings is rare. as itself. If a tab is damaged, the washer is sure to rotate
Some inexpensive pedal bodies made of multiple parts again. Replace washers with damaged tabs.
joined together can fail at the joints. Since the pedal body 20. [ ] Inspect keyed lock washers for damaged
must grasped and jiggled vigorously to check whether the keys. Good? Bad?
bearing adjustment is too loose, it is important that there Inspect the locknuts for damage, usually resulting
be no looseness in the structure of the pedal. from being over-tightened, poor wrench fit, or poor
15. [ ] Inspect pedal body for unrepairable loose- wrench use. Locknuts have to match the original thread
ness. Good? Bad?
14 – 6
and thickness. If the new nut is thicker, it may interfere 32. [ ] Compare measurement in step 7 to mea-
with the dustcap. surement in step 31 and perform one of fol-
21. [ ] Inspect locknuts for damaged threads, lowing choices.
cracks, warpage, and rounded-off flats. If step 7 and step 31 are equal or different by
Good? Bad? <.5mm: Balls are in correct position and are
Inspect the dustcaps for looseness and damage. correct size and quantity, go to step 33.
If they were loose (determined during removal), then If step 31 is less than step 7: Balls are out
of position in cup(s), balls are too large, or
reinstall them with Loctite 242. If they are bent, try to
too many balls installed. Rebuild pedal.
straighten them out. Bends in dustcaps are only critical if
If step 7 is less than step 31: Balls are too
the dustcaps are deformed to the point that they rub on small. Rebuild pedal.
the part of the axle that they overlap.
22. [ ] Inspect dustcaps for looseness (done) and
damage. Good? Bad? PRELIMINARY ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: If just adjusting pedal only, do steps 1–8.
ASSEMBLY 33. [ ] Position cone so that it gently contacts

balls, then turn it counterclockwise 90°.
Preparation of pedal-body/bearing-
cylinder for assembly FINAL ADJUSTMENT
Put a light coating of grease in each bearing cup and Adjusting a pedal can be challenging. The first challenge
put the balls into the grease. If unsure of the ball quantity, of adjusting a cone is that adjustment calibrations like the
fill the cups with balls without forcing any in. Cover the ones used with other bearings cannot be used. This is made
balls with a light coating of grease. further challenging by the fact that some cones need to be
Some pedals have dustcaps pressed into the inside turned only a fraction of the distance that a hub cone is
end of the body. The most important thing about dustcap turned, which is a small adjustment to start with. If that
installation is to make sure that they end up level rather were not enough, there is sometimes no access to the cone
than tipped. Tap the dustcap in with a rubber or plastic with a wrench while tightening the locknut. The tabbed
mallet. Level the dustcap as well as possible at this point; washer between the cone and locknut must be relied on
when the pedal is completely re-assembled, give it a spin entirely on to keep the cone from turning while securing the
and check whether the dustcaps wobble as they spin. locknut. Since the washer almost always has some rotational
Straighten them as necessary. free play, this can become very frustrating. Unfortunately,
23. [ ] Lightly grease bearing cups. there are no tricks. A lot of patience and hand control is
24. [ ] Place correct quantity and size of ball bear- needed. If relying on the tabbed washer to maintain the
ings in each cup.
cone position, then allow for rotation of the cone when
25. [ ] Cover balls with a light coating of grease.
26. [ ] Press dustcap (if any) into inside end of
setting its position.
34. [ ] Hold cone stationary (if accessible) and
pedal body.
tighten locknut to it to 60–70in-lbs
27. [ ] Grease seals, if any, and install on pedal
(20–25lbs@3").
body or pedal axle.
35. [ ] Jiggle the pedal body/bearing-cylinder side
Assemble bearings to side and check for obvious knocking. If
28. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise, the adjustment is not adequately loose, go
using soft jaws to protect threads from steel back to step 33 and start even looser.
jaws of vise. In the next step, hold the cone stationary while breaking
29. [ ] Drop pedal body/bearing-cylinder (inside-end loose the locknut. If the cone and locknut both turn coun-
down) onto pedal axle. terclockwise simultaneously, the axle will turn with them.
30. [ ] Thread on cone until it presses against bear- This will cause the frame of reference for the cone to be
ings, slip on lock washer (if any), and thread
lost, so you will have no idea if a small or large adjustment
locknut down fully.
31. [ ] Measure offset between end of pedal axle
has been made. Avoid this if possible by keeping the cone
and face of locknut and record: _______ mm absolutely stationary while breaking loose the locknut.
36. [ ] Holding cone absolutely stationary, loosen
locknut.
37. [ ] Adjust cone 10° tighter, hold cone abso-
lutely stationary and secure locknut to
60–70in-lbs (20–25lbs@3").
14 – 7
The next step is to jiggle the pedal body/bearing- there is a single spanner fitting on the inside face of the
cylinder and feel if there is knocking that indicates the pedal body that rotates with the pedal.
adjustment is too loose; then reset the cone an additional NOTE: If only adjusting pedal bearings and not
10° clockwise. This adjustment needs to be very precise. overhauling them, skip to step 29.
If the mark is under- or over-shot, try again. The adjust-
ment needs to be repeated over and over again until the
knocking is eliminated.
PEDAL REMOVAL
38. [ ] Jiggle the pedal body/bearing-cylinder side AND PRELIMINARY
to side and check for knocking.
39. Check one of two following choices depending INSPECTION
on result of step 38. 1. [ ] Do steps 1–6 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
[ ] No knocking is felt, adjustment is done. AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-3).
[ ] Knocking is felt, repeat steps 36–39. 2. [ ] Spin pedal axle and observe whether there is
40. [ ] Install dustcap or insert pedal-axle assembly any oscillation in the end of the pedal axle,
into pedal body. indicating that it is bent.
INSTALL PEDAL DISASSEMBLE BEARING

41. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, 3. [ ] Clamp pedal body in vise, using soft jaws to
AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-4). protect pedal from steel jaws of vise.
4. [ ] Use depth gauge of caliper to measure offset
from face of locknut to face of adjustable cup
and record here: __________ mm
ADJUSTABLE-CUP PEDALS 5. [ ] Use 15mm or 17mm cone wrench to hold

adjustable cup stationary while using special
spanner to turn locknut counterclockwise to
PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS break it loose.
6. [ ] Thread locknut off of adjustable cup.
Non-cartridge-bearing pedals that do not have an 7. [ ] Thread adjustable cup counterclockwise until
adjustable cone have an adjustable cup. This adjustable it is out of pedal body, but do not lift axle
cup is located at the inside face of the pedal body. This assembly out of pedal body.
type of pedal never has a dustcap on the outside end of 8. [ ] Lift adjustable-cup/pedal-axle assembly out
the pedal body and always has two fittings on the inside of pedal body by pulling up on pedal axle and
face of the pedal body where spanners can attach. These carefully lay assembly down on rag to collect
two fittings rotate with the pedal and should not be con- any loose bearings that may drop out of cup.
fused with a third fitting on the pedal axle to which the 9. [ ] Dura-Ace models only: examine pedal shaft
and inside pedal body for caged cylindrical
pedal-mounting wrench mates.
roller bearing and remove.
Shimano and Campagnolo make pedals that have 10. [ ] Dura-Ace models only: use snap-ring pli-
adjustable cups. Specific Shimano models include Dura- ers to remove external snap-ring from pedal
Ace models PD-7400, PD 7401, and PD 7701; 105 model axle.
PD-1051; and Exage models PD-A450 and A550. The 11. [ ] Remove loose balls from adjustable cup and
distinguishing characteristic of these above-listed Shimano record quantity and size here:
models and any unlisted Shimano models is that on the Inside-end-bearing quantity: __________
inside face of the pedal body there is an octagonal locknut Inside-end-bearing size: __________ mm
that fits a 25mm spanner (except Dura-Ace, which has an 12. [ ] Remove outside-end ball bearings from
octagonal locknut with concave faces). The Campagnolo depth of pedal body and record quantity and
size here:
pedals of this type are the TBS models including Record,
Outside-end-bearing quantity: __________
SGR, and Croce deAune. The distinguishing Campagnolo Outside-end-bearing size: __________ mm
feature is an octagonal fitting on the inside face of the pedal 13. [ ] Clean all parts, including pedal body.
body measuring 23mm across the flats.
Shimano and Campagnolo both make pedals that have
no dustcap on the outside end and are not the adjustable- INSPECTION
cup type. The distinguishing feature in each case is that One bearing cup is supposed to be permanently
pressed into the pedal body at the deep end of the hole
in the pedal body. The bearing cup’s inaccessible location
14 – 8
makes it virtually un-inspectable for looseness, unless it
is so loose that it falls out.
ASSEMBLY
14. [ ] Inspect pressed-in cup for looseness. See if Preparation of pedal-body cup
it falls out. Good? Bad? and adjustable cup for assembly
By design, bearing cups wear out long after the Put a light coating of grease in each bearing cup and
cones have worn out. This is good because they cannot put the balls into the grease. If unsure of the ball quan-
be replaced and a new pedal or axle assembly is needed. tity, fill the cups with balls without forcing any in. Cover
Check for cup wear by looking in the cups for a wear line the balls with a light coating of grease. The balls can be
left by the balls. The cup fixed in the pedal body can only difficult to position down in the pedal body. The pedal
be inspected visually. The adjustable cup can be inspected axle can be used to seat the balls correctly before covering
normally; trace the wear line in the cup with the tip of a them with grease.
ball point pen. If it snags on anything, the cup is shot. 20. [ ] Lightly grease cups and slide adjustable cup
15. [ ] Visually inspect fixed cup inside pedal body, onto pedal axle.
and trace ball path in adjustable cup with a 21. [ ] Fill cups with appropriate size and quantity
ball point pen to check for pits. Good? Bad? of ball bearings, then coat with grease.
If the cups are worn out, the cones are virtually certain 22. [ ] If Campagnolo pedal with roller bearing
to be. If not, be sure to check the cones carefully so that pressed inside pedal body, coat roller bear-
a worn-out one will not damage a cup, leading to pedal ings with grease.
replacement. One cone is at the outer end of the pedal
axle. The other cone is built into the pedal axle toward
Preparation of axle assembly
the inner end and is only replaceable if the pedal axle is for installation into pedal
replaceable. Cones wear out by developing pits (galling). Depending on the brand and model of pedal, some
Find the shiny wear line left by the balls on the conical or all of the following steps will need to be done.
23. [ ] Lightly grease adjustable-cup threads.
portion of the cone. Trace this wear line with the tip of
24. [ ] Install locknut onto adjustable cup (unless
a ball point pen to check for pits.
not removed) and position at end of cup
16. [ ] Trace ball path on cones with a ball point
with spanner fitting.
pen to check for pits. Good? Bad?
25. [ ] Shimano Dura-Ace pedals: install adjustable-
Campagnolo and Dura-Ace models have a cylindrical cup retainer snap-ring in slot in pedal axle.
bearing surface on the pedal axle between the inner and 26. [ ] Shimano Dura-Ace pedals: slip roller-bearing
outer cone. If this bearing surface is worn, it will appear cage onto end of pedal axle.
scored. In this case, the pedal axle needs to be replaced.
17. [ ] Campagnolo and Dura-Ace only: inspect Installation of pedal-axle assembly
cylindrical bearing surface on pedal axle. into pedal body
Good? Bad? 27. [ ] Put pedal body in vise, open-end of bearing
Next, inspect the axle for bends. It was already hole facing up.
inspected in step #2, but this is another way of looking at 28. [ ] Maintaining upward pressure on pedal axle
the axle and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth (to keep balls trapped in adjustable cup),
surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter insert pedal-axle assembly in pedal body and
thread adjustable cup fully into pedal.
top. Look under the axle as it rolls for a humping up and
down that indicates it is bent. Bent axles are axles in the
18. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. Good? Bad?
BEARING ADJUSTMENT
This bearing system adjusts like a bottom bracket.
Inspect the locknuts for damage, usually resulting Tightening the locknut that is threaded onto the cup actu-
from being over-tightened, poor wrench fit, or poor ally draws the cup slightly out of the pedal body. When
wrench use. Locknuts have to match the original thread a cup is set right up against the bearings, so that rotating
and thickness. If the new one is thicker, it may interfere the axle might feel a little tight, the act of securing the
with the dustcap. locknut loosens the adjustment, even if the cup does not
19. [ ] Inspect locknuts for damaged threads, turn. There is no point to feeling the axle to check the
cracks, warpage, and rounded-off flats.
adjustment except when the locknut is secure.
Good? Bad?
29. [ ] With locknut loose, adjust cup until it is gen-
tly pressing against bearings.
30. [ ] With felt-tip pen, put matching marks on
adjustable-cup face and pedal body.
14 – 9
31. [ ] Use spanner to hold adjustable cup sta-
tionary and secure locknut.
32. [ ] Use depth gauge of caliper to measure
offset from face of locknut to face of
adjustable cup.
33. [ ] Compare measurement in step 4 to mea-
surement in step 32 and perform one of fol-
lowing choices.
If step 4 and step 32 are equal or different by
<.5mm: Balls are in correct position and are
correct size and quantity, go to step 34.
If step 32 is less than step 4: Balls are out
of position in cup(s), balls are too large, or
too many balls installed. Rebuild pedal.
If step 4 is less than step 32: Balls are too
small. Rebuild pedal.
34. [ ] Jerk on end of pedal axle to check for
knocking.
In the last step, either knocking in the bearings was
felt or it was not. If knocking is felt, then the adjustment
is too loose. When knocking is not felt, it does not mean
that the adjustment is correct. Step #29 is designed to
create an initial adjustment that has knocking. If knock-
ing is not felt, the adjustment could easily be too tight.
For this reason, the If no knocking is felt option in step
#35 suggests redoing step #29 (setting the adjustable cup
slightly more counterclockwise).
35. [ ] If no knocking is felt: Redo step 29 with
adjustable cup left in a slightly more coun-
terclockwise position.
If knocking is felt: Loosen locknut and
position adjustable cup 10° (1–2mm) further
clockwise. Remark, then secure adjustment.
36. [ ] Repeat step 35 repeatedly until knock is not
felt.
37. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL,
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION procedure
(page 24-4).
14 – 10
ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP-PEDAL
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The axle feels tight or rough when play is first eliminated.
Last adjustment was too many degrees. Try to find an in-between adjustment.
Mis-installed dustcap rubbing on axle. Observe whether dustcap turns true as the pedal
turns and reset if needed.
Bent axle causing a portion of the axle set to rub Inspect for bent axle and replace.
dustcap.
Cones and/or cups galled. Disassemble, inspect, replace parts.
Seal mechanism drag. Check that seal mechanisms are not incorrectly
positioned and/or lubricate seals.
Wrong size balls. Disassemble, measure balls.
SYMPTOM: Play cannot be eliminated without severely over-tightening the adjustment.
Cups and/or cones galled. Disassemble, inspect, and replace.
Loose cups in pedal body. Disassemble, inspect, and repair with appropriate
Loctite.
SYMPTOM: Properly adjusted bearings feel sluggish, but not rough, when rotating the axle.
Seal mechanism drag. Grease seal mechanisms.
Plastic dustcap rubbing. Align dustcap.
SYMPTOM: When adjusting or inspecting the pedal, an erratic looseness or tightness that comes and
goes and changes location is detected .
Too many balls in the cup(s), or a ball has dropped Disassemble and check ball quantity and for out-
into the pedal-body core. of-place ball(s).
SYMPTOM: When rotating the axle, a pattern of a consistent tight spot and a consistent loose spot is
detected.
Bent axle. Inspect for bent axle and replace.
Low-precision parts. None.
SYMPTOM: When inspecting the cone, a wear pattern is detected that is high on the cone profile on
one-half of the cone and is low on the cone profile 180° away.
Bent or broken axle. Inspect and replace.
SYMPTOM: When riding the bike, a clicking sound is heard from a pedal, but the axle feels normal
when inspected.
Loose parts in the pedal body Tighten cage bolts or other pedal-body hardware.
Loose or worn shoe cleat Inspect and secure or replace cleat.
SYMPTOM: When inspecting the cone, the wear pattern is very high or very low on the cone profile.
Wear life has probably been very short.
Wrong size balls. Measure balls.
14 – 11
15 – CARTRIDGE-BEARING PEDALS
Dustcap
Locknut
Cartridge bearing
Pedal body
Needle bearing
O-ring
Pedal axle
Pedal body
Needle bearing
Snap-ring
Cartridge bearing
Snap-ring
Pedal axle
CRANK BROTHERS PEDALS 15 – 3
REGREASING BEARINGS 15 – 3
COMPLETE BEARING SERVICE 15 – 3
LOOK/MAVIC PEDALS 15 – 4
RITCHEY WCS V3 & PRO V3 PEDALS 15 – 5
SPEEDPLAY PEDALS 15 – 7
SCREW-TYPE GREASE INJECTION 15 – 7
X/1 & X/2 GREASE INJECTION 15 – 7
FROG BEARING SERVICE 15 – 7
ZERO & X BEARING SERVICE 15 – 8
TIME PEDALS 15 – 8
TIME ORIGINAL PEDALS 15 – 8
TIME ALIUM/Z PEDALS 15 – 10
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Pedal axle: The shaft that threads into the crank arm
and about which the pedal rotates.
This chapter is about pedals with cartridge bearings.
Pedal body: The main structure of the pedal. The
The design of this kind of pedal can vary tremendously,
pedal body includes the housing for the bearings and can
with almost every manufacturer designing pedals a differ-
also include a pedal cage or a retention mechanism.
ent way. About the only factor these manufacturers have
Pedal cage: A one-piece or two-piece plate of metal
in common is that they all use a cartridge bearing (Hadley
that is on the front and back, or just the back, of the pedal.
and Conrad are names that are sometimes used for the
The pedal cage supports the shoe and may be the point
bearing) that is pressed into the pedal body. This chapter
to which a toe clip mounts.
addresses Crank Brothers, Look, Ritchey, Speedplay, and
Retention mechanism: This mechanism is similar to
Time pedals that have cartridge bearings. Not all pedals
a ski binding. Usually by means of springs, the retention
made by these manufacturers have cartridge bearings.
mechanism engages some sort of clip to the cleat that is
Although this list is certain to be out of date in a short
attached to the rider’s shoe.
while, the principles involved in these procedures are cer-
Seal: A rubber or plastic ring that covers or fills a gap
tain to apply in different mixes and sequences for just about
between two moving parts to prevent contamination from
any pedal made with cartridge bearings. If the pedal being
entering the mechanism.
serviced is not covered in this chapter, it is recommended
Snap-ring: A split circular clip made of spring-grade
to review all of the procedures in this chapter, then use a
steel that is used to retain a bearing in a pedal body or on
meticulous and careful application of whichever techniques
a pedal axle. Snap-rings have pin holes in the ends which
found in this chapter seem most applicable.
are engaged by snap-ring pliers for removal and installa-
tion. A circlip is similar but has no pin holes.
Spline: A cylindrical fitting that has alternating ribs
GENERAL INFORMATION and grooves on its surface parallel to the axis of the
cylinder. Splines are usually engaged by a tool with the
opposite spline pattern. A spline is used as an alternative
TERMINOLOGY to a standard six- or eight-sided wrench fitting.
Bushing: A cylindrical sleeve that may be made of
brass or a variety of specialized plastics. Bushings func-
tion as bearings.
PREREQUISITES
Cartridge bearing: A fully self-contained bearing unit Pedal removal and installation
that cannot be disassembled. The bearing cartridge includes It is optional, but strongly recommended, to remove
ball bearings and an inner and outer race. The bearings are the pedals from the crank arm to service the bearings. The
usually hidden behind seals. The entire assembly is shaped procedures are written as though the pedals are removed
like a short cylinder with a hole through the center. from the crank arms. It is strongly recommended to
Circlip: See snap-ring. overhaul only one pedal at a time, so as not to mix parts
Dustcap: A piece of plastic, metal, or rubber that between pedals.
threads or presses onto the outer end of the pedal body to
cover the hole through which the bearings are accessed.
Locknut: A nut that threads onto an axle against a INDICATIONS
bearing cartridge to lock the position of the bearing rela- There are several reasons that the pedals may need
tive to the axle. bearing replacement and several reasons they may need
Needle bearing: In this case, a cylindrical assembly adjustment. Bearing replacement should be done as part
consisting of a cylindrical outer bearing race and a set of a regular maintenance cycle, the duration of which will
of thin cylindrical bearings (known as needles). The inner change depending on the type of riding, the amount of
race may be part of the assembly or it may be a smooth riding, and the type of equipment. Adjustment should be
surface on the pedal axle. done on the basis of need.
15 – 1
Maintenance cycles TOOL CHOICES

If starting out with pedals(s) known to be in good Each type of pedal requires some different special
condition with good quality grease, they should be able tools; therefore, there is no tool list. Reading the complete
to be ridden thousands of miles without needing bear- procedure is recommended before preparing to service the
ing replacement. If the equipment sees little wet-weather pedal. It is also a good idea to know what tools will be needed
riding, then an appropriate maintenance cycle would be before starting. Common tools such as hex keys, torx bits,
2,000–3,000 miles in most cases. If a lot of wet-condition screwdrivers, snap-ring pliers, seal picks, and a plastic mallet
riding is done, then the maintenance cycle might need to are needed. Most pedals do not require special bearing pullers
be as often as every 750–1,000 miles. Parts rust whether and installers and few such tools are made that fit the small
the bike is being ridden or not, so another factor is how cartridge bearings that are in pedals.
long the bike may be sitting before it will be used again; for
example, if ridden 200 miles in the rain in the fall, then put
away four months, it would be a good idea to overhaul the TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
pedal(s) before putting the bike away. Overhauling a pedal (including pedal removal, disas-
Seal mechanisms used in these pedals are not effective sembly, cleaning, assembly, and bearing adjustment) is a
water-tight seals. Their effectiveness varies with the brand 10–15 minute job of little difficulty. Double this time for
and model. At best, they can lengthen the acceptable two pedals. Adjusting the pedal alone is a 1–2 minute job
time between overhauls. With seal mechanisms, the best of little difficulty.
policy is to initially overhaul the pedal(s) on a normal
length maintenance cycle (2,000–3,000 miles), and if the
grease is found to be in good condition, extend the cycle
COMPLICATIONS
the next time. Limited parts availability
Some pedals have limited parts availability or no parts
Symptoms indicating availability. This is because the value of the labor required
need of bearing replacement to service the pedal exceeds the replacement value of the
What symptom would lead to feeling the pedal(s) pedal. Before beginning service of a pedal, make sure there
should have the bearings replaced? One is that when is a source for parts.
performing an “adjustment,” the looseness (free play) in
the bearings cannot be eliminated. Another is that when Damaged body parts
removing the pedal and rotating the axle, the end of the Pedals are extremely exposed to damage. If the main
axle oscillates, indicating a bent axle (which should always structure of the pedal is damaged, there is usually no point
be replaced). in overhauling the pedal. If body parts are loose and can-
not be tightened, it will interfere with checking whether
Symptoms indicating the bearing adjustment is loose.
need of “adjustment” Mixing left and right pedal parts
Cartridge bearings cannot be “adjusted,” but if the
Parts are often similar, but not interchangeable, between
retaining mechanism that holds the pedal parts together is
left and right pedals. Even experienced mechanics do not
loose, it may seem like a loose bearing. When the retaining
overhaul pedals frequently, so it is a good idea to have only
mechanisms are secured, the looseness may go away. If
one pedal apart at a time to eliminate any possibility of mix-
securing the retention mechanism does not eliminate the
ing parts between the left and right pedals.
sensation of looseness, parts are probably worn out and
need to be replaced. With Look, Mavic, and Time pedals,
the retaining mechanism is the dustcap. ABOUT THE REST
The primary symptom that will be experienced indi-
cating the pedal(s) needs “adjustment” is looseness in the OF THIS CHAPTER
bearings. This can be detected by grasping the pedal and There are five sections in the rest of this chapter:
jerking it side to side while feeling for a knocking sensation. The first section is CRANK BROTHERS PEDALS; the sec-
Inspect for loose bearings and loose locknuts every 300–500 ond section is LOOK/MAVIC PEDALS; the third section is
miles. The only way to check for a loose locknut is to put RITCHEY WCS V3 & PRO V3 PEDALS; the fourth section is
a tool on the locknut and see if it is secure. SPEEDPLAY PEDALS; the last section is TIME PEDALS.
15 – 2
CRANK BROTHERS PEDALS COMPLETE BEARING SERVICE

Because several parts will be damaged by removal, a
complete rebuild kit should be used any time these ped-
PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS als are being serviced. There is nothing to be gained by
This section covers almost all Crank Brothers Egg- internal service without parts replacement. NOTE: In
beater pedals made in 2002–2003. Slight variations exist order to prevent mixing left and right pedal parts,
between the 2002 and 2003 models. If the cap on the work with only one pedal at a time!
outward end of the pedal is a rubber plug, the 2002 only
notations should be followed. If the cap on the outward Bearing adjustment only
end is metallic with a screwdriver slot, the 2003 only There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or tight-
notations should be followed. All steps without these ness means the bearings are damaged or worn out.
notations apply to all models. Pedal removal and preliminary inspection
Locknut
NOTE: Pedal removal is not necessary for servicing
this pedal, but it is the only way to check for
Cartridge bearing a bent axle. If not removing pedals, start with
step 3 and ignore steps that say to clamp the
axle in the vise.
2. [ ] Spin pedal axle and observe whether there is
any oscillation in the end of the pedal axle,
indicating that it is bent.
Teardown
3. [ ] 2002 only: Pry rubber cap out of outward
Bushing end of pedal body.
2003 only: Use 5/16" flat screwdriver to
Rubber seal
unthread cap from outward face of pedal
Pedal axle body.
while removing the locknut. Soft jaws made of copper,
aluminum, or plastic are recommended to protect the
threads of the pedal axle from damage while clamped
firmly in the vise.
4. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise,
15.1 A generic axle/bearing assembly, similar to what using soft jaws to protect threads from steel
is found in a Crank Brothers Eggbeater pedal. jaws of vise.
5. [ ] 2002 only: Use 3mm hex key to unthread
bolt in end of axle.
REGREASING BEARINGS 2003 only: Use 8mm socket to unthread nut

on end of axle.
The 2003 models are designed to be regreased without 6. [ ] 2002 only: Use internal snap-ring pliers to
disassembly. A Crank Brothers fitting is installed in the remove snap-ring in end of pedal body, then
end of the pedal body once the outer cap is removed. pull on pedal body to remove it from axle
A standard needle-type grease gun can then be used to assembly.
refresh the grease. 2003 only: Pull on pedal body to remove it
1. [ ] Unthread cap in outer end of pedal. from axle assembly.
2. [ ] Thread in Crank Brothers grease-injection 7. [ ] Remove cartridge bearing from outward end
fitting where cap was removed. of pedal body. NOTE: If bearing will not just
3. [ ] Slowly pump grease into pedal until only shake out when pedal is inverted, use 6mm
clean grease is coming out of seal where hex key from inward end to push bearing out.
axle enters pedal body. 8. [ ] Pry seal from inward end of pedal body.
4. [ ] Wipe off excess grease. NOTE: Seal will be replaced.
5. [ ] Remove grease fitting and install cap.
15 – 3
9. [ ] Use 90º seal pick to catch back edge of (see figure 14.2 on page 14-2), but, once the pedal-axle
bushing to extract it from inner end of pedal assembly is extracted from the pedal body, you will find
body. NOTE: Bushing will be replaced—if that it has cartridge bearings instead of adjustable-cone/
removal is difficult, jam anything that will fit cup bearings.
between bushing and pedal body to deform
or shatter bushing so it can be removed.
Rebuild COMPLETE BEARING SERVICE
10. [ ] Grease bushing and insert into inner end of Pedal removal and preliminary inspection
pedal body. 1. [ ] Do steps 1–6 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
11. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of axle in soft jaws AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-3).
in vise, with axle pointing up. In the next step, inspect the end of the axle for oscil-
12. [ ] Place new seal (soft-lip-face first) onto well- lation, which indicates it is bent. A bent axle is an axle in
greased axle.
the process of breaking and should be replaced.
13. [ ] Place pedal body over end of axle, then
apply pressure to pedal body to press seal
into pedal body. Inspect closely for deflected
or inverted seal lip (use seal pick to arrange
lip, if necessary). Access pedal bearing
14. [ ] 2002 only: Install new cartridge bearing over It is strongly recommend that only one pedal is disas-
end of axle and into outward end of pedal sembled at a time. There are parts that are unique to each
body, then install snap-ring (flatter-face out).
pedal. If both pedals are disassembled at the same time and
2003 only: Install new cartridge bearing
parts get mixed from right to left, each overhaul will have to be
over end of axle and into outward end of
pedal body. done all over again (at best); at worst, getting the parts mixed
15. [ ] 2002 only: Install new bolt into end of axle, up between left and right pedals will damage some parts.
then torque to 30in-lbs. NOTE: If reusing old In step #3, the dustcap is removed. Older models had a
bolt, Loctite 242 must be applied to threads! plastic dustcap with a hex nut on its face. The dustcap should
2003 only: Install new nut on end of axle, be tight, and the plastic is soft, so it is important to use a six-
then torque to 30in-lbs. point socket on this dustcap to prevent rounding the corners.
16. [ ] 2002 only: Press rubber cap into outward More recent models have a dustcap with multiple pin holes. A
end of pedal body. NOTE: Air pressure bottom-bracket pin spanner can be used to remove these.
behind plug must be released—insert seal 3. [ ] Remove pedal dustcap from outside end of
pick or other thin object between cap and pedal.
body to release air pressure!
2003 only: Treat dustcap threads with Teardown
Loctite 242, then install dustcap into body The pedal axle must be held securely from rotating
and snug gently. while removing the locknut. Soft jaws made of copper,
Install pedal aluminum, or plastic are recommended to protect the
17. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, threads of the pedal axle from damage while clamped
AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-4). firmly in the vise.
jaws of vise.
LOOK/MAVIC PEDALS In step #5, remove a locknut, which could be a right-
hand or left-hand thread, depending on whether the pedal
is from the left or right side of the bike. Be sure to pay
PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS attention to the clockwise/counterclockwise notations in
This section covers almost all Look pedals and Mavic ped- this step. Older Mavic quill pedals that use toe clips have
als that are the “Look-clipless” style, as well as some models right-hand thread on both left and right pedal locknuts.
that use toe clips. All the models covered have a dustcap in 5. [ ] Hold axle from turning with a pedal wrench
the outside end of the pedal. If the pedal has no dustcap, this while breaking loose locknut with an 11mm
section does not cover it, with one exception. socket wrench (counterclockwise for right
pedal, clockwise for left pedal).
Look makes a pedal that is similar in appearance and
external configuration to the Shimano and Campagnolo
“Look-style” models that have no outside-end dustcap
15 – 4
6. [ ] Support pedal body on vise so that axle is free down that indicates it is bent. A bent axle is an axle in the
to drop down between jaws. Use punch to process of breaking and should be replaced.
drive end of axle down through outer bearing. 11. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. Good? Bad?
7. [ ] Turn pedal body over so outer bearing car-
tridge will drop out of pedal body. Rebuild
12. [ ] Grease needle bearings in inside-end of pedal
Dustcap
body.
Locknut 13. [ ] Grease bearings of outside-end cartridge
Cartridge bearing bearing.
Pedal body 14. [ ] Insert axle into pedal.
15. [ ] Grasp fat threaded end of axle in soft jaws
in vise.
16. [ ] Slip outside-end cartridge bearing onto end
of axle.
To remove the outside-end bearing from the axle,
impact is needed. Instead of using impact to install a new
bearing, the locknut on the end of the axle can be used
Needle bearing as a press to drive the bearing onto the axle. Do not be
O-ring
surprised by the high resistance encountered when thread-
ing the locknut down.
Pedal axle Once again, note that left and right pedals differ in
regards to whether this locknut is a left-hand or right-hand
thread. Pay attention to the clockwise/counterclockwise
notations.
15.2 A Look/Mavic pedal. 17. [ ] Holding axle from turning with pedal
wrench, use 11mm wrench to secure lock-
At this point, a cylindrical cage of needle bearings is nut (counterclockwise for left pedal, clock-
still inside the pedal body. Although Mavic instructions wise for right pedal). Tightening locknut
indicate that this cylindrical cage is removable and the presses bearing onto spindle.
replacement part is available, removal is not recom-
mended. Using the tools and methods Mavic describes
Adjustment
A surprising feature of this pedal is that the dustcap
has proven unreliable and the installation tool is difficult,
fixes the location of the axle/bearing assembly in the pedal
if not impossible, to find.
body. When the dustcap is not in place or not tight, then
8. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of pedal.
the pedal body will move in and out on the axle several
Inspection millimeters.
9. [ ] Rotate outer bearing cartridge to check for 18. [ ] Install and secure dustcap.
rough feeling, indicating need of replacement.
In step #10, inspect the polished cylindrical surface Install pedal
that is the inner race for the needle bearing, which is still
inside the pedal body. If this surface on the axle is gouged
or pitted, then the bearing is probably bad as well. Because
the bearing cannot be replaced, replacing only the axle will
provide a very short-term benefit and would be a waste of
money. Suggest to the customer that he or she ride with a
RITCHEY WCS V3 & PRO
bad pedal bearing until it becomes intolerable, or suggest
replacing the pedals now.
V3 PEDALS
10. [ ] Inspect polished cylindrical surface on axle
that rolls inside of needle bearing assembly PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS
for gouges and pits. Ritchey makes two basic bearing systems for their
Next, inspect the axle for bends. This was already pedals. One design is disassembled from both the outward
inspected for in step #2, but this is another way of look- and inward ends of the pedal. This design is readily identi-
ing at it and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth fied by the presence of a removable cap on the outward
surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter end of the pedal. This design is found on the Comp V3
15 – 5
model. Since this is a loose-ball design, use the procedure Inspection
in chapter 14 (page 14-4). 11. [ ] Rotate bearing cartridge to check for rough
The other design, which has no cap on the outward feeling, indicating need of replacement.
end of the pedal, is accessed entirely from the inward end Inspect the polished cylindrical surface that is the inner
of the pedal. The models with this design include the WCS race for the needle bearing (or bushing), which is still inside
V3 and Pro V3 models (both mountain and road). the pedal body. If this surface on the axle is gouged or
pitted, then the bearing is probably bad as well. The axle
COMPLETE BEARING SERVICE can be replaced with the bad bearing (or bushing) still in
the pedal; however, this would probably be a waste. Either
Bearing adjustment only suggest riding with the bad axle until it becomes intolerable
There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or tight- or replace the pedals.
ness means the bearings are damaged or worn out. 12. [ ] Inspect polished cylindrical surface on out-
side end of axle for gouges and pits.
Pedal removal and preliminary inspection Next, inspect the axle for bends. This was already
inspected for in step #2, but this is another way of look-
2. [ ] Spin pedal axle and observe whether there is ing at it and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth
any oscillation in the end of the pedal axle, surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter
indicating that it is bent. top. Look under the axle as it rolls for a humping up and
Teardown process of breaking and should be replaced.
The Time pedal (figure 15.3) on page 15-9 is a similar 13. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. Good? Bad?
design to the Ritchey pedals covered in this procedure.
NOTE: In order to prevent mixing left and right Rebuild
pedal parts, work with only one pedal at a time! 14. [ ] Grease bearings or bushing in inner-end of
3. [ ] Snap plastic cover off inward end of body pedal body.
and pull cover off end of axle. 15. [ ] Treat cartridge-bearing mounting surface on
4. [ ] Use internal snap-ring pliers to remove snap- axle with Loctite 242 or stronger. NOTE:
ring from inward end of body. Press fit between axle and bearing at this
The pedal axle must be held securely while removing point is all that holds pedal together—loose
the pedal body. Soft jaws made of copper, aluminum, or fit here is severe safety hazard!
16. [ ] Place old bearing on top of open vise jaws,
plastic are recommended to protect the threads of the pedal
place retaining cone (small-end down) on old
axle from damage while clamped firmly in the vise. bearing, place new bearing on cone, and then
5. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise, insert axle through stack. Use plastic mallet
using soft jaws to protect threads from steel to seat axle fully into stack. NOTE: It may be
jaws of vise. necessary to clamp assembly upside down in
6. [ ] Pull up sharply on pedal body to remove it vise (clamp on old bearing only) to strike small
from axle assembly. NOTE: It may be neces- end of axle to release it from old bearing.
sary to use a plastic mallet to separate body 17. [ ] Support pedal body (open-end up) on
from axle/bearing assembly. bench top, then insert axle assembly into
7. [ ] Remove plastic seal from inward face of pedal body.
cartridge bearing. 18. [ ] Use plastic mallet to seat axle assembly fully
8. [ ] Place axle in vise jaws (threaded-end down), into body.
so bearing is resting on top of vise but do 19. [ ] Install small plastic seal (flatter-face first)
not clamp on axle threads! over axle and into end of pedal body.
In the next step, use impact to remove the cartridge 20. [ ] Install snap-ring (flatter-face out) into end of
bearing from the axle. This impact can damage the bearing, pedal body and confirm it is seated. NOTE:
so do not remove a bearing unless prepared to replace it. Inability to seat snap-ring indicates axle
9. [ ] Tap on axle end with plastic mallet to sepa- assembly was not fully seated in step 18.
rate cartridge bearing and retaining cone 21. [ ] Install remaining seal (cupped-face first) over
from axle. end axle, then seat seal into groove.
At this point, all the parts that can be removed have
been removed. There is a needle bearing or bushing still at
Install pedal
the outside end of the pedal that cannot be removed. REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION procedure
10. [ ] Clean all parts, including outside of pedal.
(page 24-4).
15 – 6
SPEEDPLAY PEDALS order to prevent mixing left and right pedal parts,
work with only one pedal at a time!
Bearing adjustment only
PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or tight-
This section covers Frog, X/1, X/2, Zero, and X pedals. ness means the bearings are damaged or worn out.
For complete bearing service, there is one procedure for the
Zero, X, X/1, and X/2 models and another procedure for Pedal removal and preliminary inspection
the Frog model. The lack of a dustcap on the outward end NOTE: Pedal removal is not necessary for servicing
this pedal, but it is the only way to check for
of the pedal body signifies that the pedal is the Frog model.
a bent axle. If not removing pedals, start with
For complete service of these pedals, use the FROG BEARING step 3 and ignore steps that say to clamp the
SERVICE section that follows. For models with a dustcap in axle in the vise.
the outward end of the pedal body, use the ZERO & X BEAR- 1. [ ] Do steps 1–6 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
ING SERVICE section that follows. AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-3).
For grease-injection procedures, the models are grouped 2. [ ] Spin pedal axle and observe whether there is
differently. All of the models except the X/1 and X/2 have any oscillation in the end of the pedal axle,
a #1 Phillips screw in the outer end of the pedal body. For indicating that it is bent.
performing grease injection on these models, use the SCREW- Teardown
TYPE GREASE INJECTION section that follows. When there is 3. [ ] Remove #1 Phillips screw from outer end of
no #1 Phillips screw in the outward end of the pedal body, pedal body.
use the X/1 & X/2 GREASE INJECTION section that follows. 4. [ ] Watching closely for nut on opposite face of
pedal body from bolt head, use 2.5mm hex
key to unthread one body bolt. Repeat for
SCREW-TYPE GREASE INJECTION bolt in other face of pedal body.
1. [ ] Find #1 Phillips screw in outer end of pedal The pedal axle must be held securely from rotating
body, then remove screw. while removing the locknut. Soft jaws made of copper,
2. [ ] While slowly turning pedal, use a needle-type
grease gun to slowly pump grease into screw
hole, watching for when dirty grease escap- threads of the pedal axle from damage while clamped
ing from inward end of pedal body changes firmly in the vise.
to 100% clean grease. 5. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise,
3. [ ] Wipe off excess grease. using soft jaws to protect threads from steel
4. [ ] Install screw back into hole. jaws of vise.
6. [ ] Starting close to point where axle enters
body, use thin flat screwdriver to separate
X/1 & X/2 GREASE INJECTION upper and lower halves of body. Then, pull
body halves away from axle assembly.
1. [ ] Use seal pick or small screwdriver to pry out
dustcap in outer end of pedal body. 7. [ ] Pull spacer off end of axle assembly.
2. [ ] Press Speedplay Speedy Luber grease fitting 8. [ ] Use 8mm socket to remove nut on end of
into hole where dustcap was removed. axle, then pull off cartridge bearing, needle
3. [ ] While slowly turning pedal, use needle- bearing, and O-ring.
type grease gun to slowly pump grease 9. [ ] Scrape mating faces of pedal-body halves
into Speedy Luber, watching for when dirty clear of any residual sealer.
grease escaping from inward end of pedal
body changes to 100% clean grease.
Rebuild
10. [ ] Grease entire axle, except threads, and
4. [ ] Wipe off excess grease.
grease new needle-bearing assembly.
5. [ ] Remove Speedy Luber, then install original
11. [ ] Assemble O-ring, needle bearing, then car-
dustcap into pedal body.
tridge bearing to axle.
12. [ ] Treat threads on axle with Loctite 242, then
FROG BEARING SERVICE install nut on end of axle and secure to
35–40in-lbs.
Because several parts will be damaged by removal, a
13. [ ] Treat mating surfaces of pedal-body halves
complete rebuild kit should be used any time these ped- with thin layer of silicone-type gasket sealer.
als are being serviced. There is nothing to be gained by 14. [ ] Treat body-bolt threads with Loctite 242.
internal service without parts replacement. NOTE: In 15. [ ] Place spacer onto nut on end of axle.
15 – 7
16. [ ] Assemble body halves to axle assembly,
making certain spacer and O-ring are cor-
Rebuild
10. [ ] Grease entire axle and grease needle-bearing
rectly engaged to body. assembly inside pedal body.
17. [ ] Install both body bolts and secure with 11. [ ] Insert new greased O-ring into inner end of
2.5mm hex key. pedal body.
18. [ ] Install #1 Phillips screw into hole in outer 12. [ ] Install larger-I.D. cartridge bearing into outer
end of pedal body. end of pedal body, then install remaining
Install pedal cartridge bearing in front of first bearing.
19. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL, 13. [ ] Install snap-ring (flatter-face out) into pedal
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION procedure body and confirm it has seated in groove.
(page 24-4). 14. [ ] Install pedal body onto axle.
15. [ ] Treat Torx bolt with Loctite 242, then thread
bolt into axle and secure to 35–40in-lbs.
ZERO & X BEARING SERVICE 16. [ ] Press cap into hole in outer end of pedal body.
Because several parts will be damaged by removal, a Install pedal
complete rebuild kit should be used any time these ped- 17. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
als are being serviced. There is nothing to be gained by AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-4).
internal service without parts replacement. NOTE: In
order to prevent mixing left and right pedal parts,
work with only one pedal at a time!
Bearing adjustment only TIME PEDALS
There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or tight-
ness means the bearings are damaged or worn out. PEDALS THIS SECTION COVERS
Pedal removal and preliminary inspection Time makes two basic bearing systems for their pedals.
NOTE: Pedal removal is not necessary for servicing One design is disassembled from both the outward and
this pedal, but it is the only way to check for inward ends of the pedal. This design is readily identified
a bent axle. If not removing pedals, start with by the presence of a removable cap on the outward end of
step 3 and ignore steps that say to clamp the the pedal. This design is found on Alium and Z models. In
axle in the vise. this chapter, these are referred to as Alium/Z pedals.
1. [ ] Do steps 1–6 of PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, The other design, which has no cap on the outward
end of the pedal, is accessed entirely from the inward
end of the pedal. The models with this design include the
indicating that it is bent. Equipe, Criterium, Challenge, Impact, and ATAC models.
Since this design is the original one, in this chapter all of
Teardown these models are referred to as Time Original pedals.
3. [ ] Remove cap in outer end of pedal body by
inserting a pick under tabs on side of cap to
pry cap out. TIME ORIGINAL PEDALS
4. [ ] Use T-20 Torx bit to remove bolt in end of
axle. NOTE: If Loctite is making removal too Bearing adjustment only
difficult, use tip of soldering gun to heat bolt There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or tight-
head. ness means the bearings are damaged or worn out.
5. [ ] Pull pedal body off axle.
6. [ ] Use internal snap-ring pliers to remove snap-
Pedal removal and preliminary inspection
ring in end of pedal body.
7. [ ] Install Torx bolt back into axle, then push
pedal assembly back onto axle to push car-
tridge bearings out end of pedal body.
8. [ ] Remove O-ring from inward end of pedal
body. Teardown
9. [ ] Clean all parts and pedal body (including There are two different designs in this group of
needle bearings that remain in body), then pedals. One design uses an internal snap-ring to retain
dry thoroughly with compressed air.
the axle and bearing assembly in the pedal body. These
15 – 8
snap-rings may have holes for snap-ring pliers, or they 7. [ ] Use external snap-ring pliers or seal pick to
may be a simple circlip design that is removed by catch- remove snap-ring or circlip (just outside of
ing an end with a seal pick to remove it from the groove. cartridge bearing) from axle.
The other design utilizes a cap threaded onto the inward In the next step, use impact to remove the cartridge
end of the body. The cap is unthreaded with a pin span- bearing from the axle. This impact can damage the
ner. In the following steps, differences in procedure due bearing, so do not remove the bearing unless prepared
to these design variations are labeled Snap-ring only or to replace it.
Threaded cap only. 8. [ ] Remove axle from vise and support outer
perimeter of bearing on jaws of vise (with
threaded end of axle down) and use ballpeen
Pedal body
hammer to gently tap axle out of bearing.
At this point, all the parts that can be removed have
been removed. There is a needle bearing still in the pedal
at the outside end of the pedal that cannot be removed.
9. [ ] Clean all parts, including pedal body.
Needle bearing
Inspection
10. [ ] Rotate bearing cartridge to check for rough
feeling, indicating need of replacement.
Inspect the polished cylindrical surface that is the inner
race for the needle bearing, which is still inside the pedal
body. If this surface on the axle is gouged or pitted, then
Snap-ring the bearing is probably bad as well. The axle can be replaced
with the bad bearing still in the pedal; however, this would
Cartridge bearing
probably be a waste. Either suggest riding with the bad axle
Snap-ring until it becomes intolerable or replace the pedals.
11. [ ] Inspect polished cylindrical surface on out-
Pedal axle side end of axle for gouges and pits.
Next, inspect the axle for bends. This was already
15.3 A Time Original pedal. ing at it and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth
surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter
NOTE: In order to prevent mixing left and right top. Look under the axle as it rolls for a humping up and
pedal parts, work with only one pedal at a time! down that indicates it is bent. Bent axles are axles in the
3. [ ] Snap-ring only: Use internal snap-ring pliers process of breaking and should be replaced.
or seal pick to remove ring from inside face 12. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. Good? Bad?
of pedal body.
Threaded cap only: Use pin spanner to Rebuild
unthread cap from inside face of pedal body. 13. [ ] Grease bearings in inner-end of pedal body.
4. [ ] Inspect carefully for seals and/or washers 14. [ ] Slip inward-side cartridge bearing onto end
that may be found in front of cartridge bear- of axle. Support bearing on vise jaws and
ing at this time. NOTE: Washers and seals tap axle in with plastic hammer if necessary.
may be easier to remove during step 6. 15. [ ] Install small snap-ring (or circlip) on axle.
The pedal axle must be held securely from rotating 16. [ ] Install any washers or seals that were
while removing the locknut. Soft jaws made of copper, between cartridge bearing and pedal body
aluminum, or plastic are recommended to protect the into end of pedal body.
17. [ ] Insert axle into pedal.
threads of the pedal axle from damage while clamped
18. [ ] Install any washers or seals that were cover-
firmly in the vise. ing cartridge bearing into pedal body.
19. [ ] Snap-ring only: Install large snap-ring (or
circlip) into inside face of pedal.
jaws of vise.
Threaded-cap only: Treat cap threads with
6. [ ] Pull up sharply on pedal body to remove it
Loctite 242, then thread cap snugly onto
from axle assembly. NOTE: Carefully note
pedal body.
sequence of seals and/or washers that may be
found on outward face of cartridge bearing.
15 – 9
Install pedal threads of the pedal axle from damage while clamped
20. [ ] Do steps 14–23 of PEDAL REMOVAL, firmly in the vise.
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION procedure 4. [ ] Clamp threaded portion of pedal axle in vise,
(page 24-4). using soft jaws to protect threads from steel
jaws of vise.
5. [ ] Use socket to unthread nut on end of axle.
TIME ALIUM/Z PEDALS 6. [ ] Pull on pedal body to remove it from axle
assembly.
Bearing adjustment only 7. [ ] Carefully remove seal from inward end
There is no bearing adjustment. Excess play or of pedal body, then remove bushing from
tightness usually means the bearings are damaged or inward end of pedal body. NOTE: Bushing
worn out. On some pedals of this type, a loose dustcap and seal may have remained on axle.
will cause the pedal body to float laterally on the axle/ 8. [ ] Remove cartridge bearing from outward end
bearing assembly. of pedal body. NOTE: If bearing will not fall
out end of body, attach locknut to axle, then
Pedal removal and preliminary inspection use axle to push bearing out from behind.
AND INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-3). Inspection
2. [ ] Spin pedal axle and observe whether there is 9. [ ] Rotate bearing cartridge to check for rough
any oscillation in the end of the pedal axle, feeling, indicating need of replacement.
indicating that it is bent. Inspect the polished cylindrical surface that is the inner
race for the bushing. If this surface on the axle is gouged
Teardown or pitted, then replacing the bushing without replacing the
NOTE: In order to prevent mixing left and right
pedal parts, work with only one pedal at a time!
axle will have no benefit.
10. [ ] Inspect polished cylindrical surface on axle
Locknut for gouges and pits.
Cartridge bearing Next, inspect the axle for bends. This was already
ing at it and is worth doing. Roll the axle on a flat, smooth
surface such as a Formica counter top or a glass counter
11. [ ] Inspect axle for bends. Good? Bad?
Rebuild
12. [ ] Install new bushing into inward end of pedal
Bushing body, then press seal into body.
Rubber seal 13. [ ] Grease smooth, cylindrical section of axle.
14. [ ] Place pedal body over end of axle.
Pedal axle 15. [ ] Install new cartridge bearing over end of
axle and into outward end of pedal body.
16. [ ] Install nut on end of axle, then torque to
30in-lbs.
17. [ ] Treat cap threads with Loctite 242, then
install cap into body and snug gently.
15.4 A generic axle/bearing assembly, similar to what

Install pedal
is found in a Time Alium or Z pedal.
(page 24-4).
3. [ ] Use hex key to unthread dustcap from out-
ward face of pedal body.
while removing the locknut. Soft jaws made of copper,
15 – 10
BARNETT’S MANUAL
5TH EDITION
VOLUME 2:
WHEELS, TIRES,
and DRIVETRAIN
by John Barnett,

by John Barnett

Volume 2: Wheels, Tires, and Drivetrain
the publisher.
Printed in the USA
VeloPress
1830 N. 55th Street


GUIDE TO VOLUMES
Volume 2 of Barnett’s Manual covers a variety of topics, including wheels, tires, and drivetrain components. The
wheel chapters cover building, truing, repairing, and installing wheels. The tire chapter covers installation and repair of tires
and tubes. The drivetrain-components chapters cover service and installation of cranksets, chainrings, cassettes and freewheels,
chains, and chainline.
There, of course, are a few unavoidable exceptions. For example, in this volume, in the directions for truing a wheel, a
reference is made to a procedure in chapter 12 (Volume 1) for adjusting the hub bearing (to prepare the wheel for truing).
The contents below provide an exact list of what is covered in this volume, chapter by chapter, and a general idea of
what is covered in each of the others.

CHAPTERS 1 — 15

16 — WHEEL BUILDING AND RIM REPLACEMENT
17 — WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR
18 — WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
19 — TIRES AND TUBES
20 — PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS
21 — COTTERED CRANK ARMS
22 — ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKS
23 — CHAINRINGS
24 — PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
25 — FREEHUB MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS
26 — CHAINS
27 — CHAINLINE

CHAPTERS 28 — 37

CHAPTERS 38 — 39
16 – WHEEL BUILDING AND RIM REPLACEMENT
"D1" if radial "D1" for 1X
0 B1 1 "D1" for 2X
4
"D1" for 3X
At this point, all “A“ and “B” spokes are in place,
but for clarity are not all shown in this figure.
Also, D2, D3, etc. are in flange at this point,
but are also not shown in this figure.
"D1" for 4X
D8 B8
B1
D1 Cross 2 D7
Cross 1
Cross 3 (under)
(B7)
"A" spoke "C" spoke
Squeeze
together
WHEEL DESIGN 16 – 6
RIM CHOICES 16 – 7
HUB CHOICES 16 – 9
SPOKE CHOICES 16 – 10
NUMBER OF SPOKES 16 – 10
NIPPLE CHOICES 16 – 11
SPOKING PATTERNS 16 – 11
TYING AND SOLDERING SPOKES 16 – 13
DETERMINING SPOKE LENGTH 16 – 13
USING THIS SECTION 16 – 13
HUB MEASUREMENTS 16 – 14
RIM MEASUREMENTS 16 – 15
SPOKE-LENGTH CALCULATION 16 – 17
SPOKE CALC BY DT SWISS 16 – 18
WHEELSMITH SPOKE-LENGTH CALCULATOR 16 – 19
BIKE-ALOG SPOKEMASTER 16 – 20
LACING WHEELS 16 – 21
CONVENTIONAL WHEELS 16 – 21
CAMPAGNOLO OVERVIEW 16 – 30
CAMPAGNOLO RADIAL FRONT 16 – 31
CAMPAGNOLO G3 FRONT 16 – 31
CAMPAGNOLO G4 FRONT 16 – 32
CAMPAGNOLO STANDARD REAR 16 – 33
CAMPAGNOLO G3 REAR 16 – 34
CANE CREEK WHEELS 16 – 35
MAVIC UST-RIM WHEELS 16 – 36
SHIMANO 16-SPOKE WHEELS 16 – 37
SHIMANO SLOTTED-HUB DISC-BRAKE WHEELS 16 – 39
REPLACING RIM AND REUSING OLD SPOKES 16 – 41
PREPARING WHEEL FOR TRUING 16 – 41
16 – WHEEL BUILDING AND RIM

REPLACEMENT
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER last spoke it crosses on way to the rim, then this pattern
is called an interlace.
This chapter is about building wheels. It covers design-
Nipple: The elongated nut that threads onto the end
ing the wheel, determining the spoke length, assembling
of the spoke and attaches the spoke to the rim or hub.
the spokes to the hub and rim (lacing the wheel), and get-
Nipple head: The fat portion at one end of the
ting the wheel ready for truing. Additional information is
nipple (usually round).
included about replacing rims and reusing old spokes. This
chapter does not include anything about truing the wheels Hub Spokes Rim Tire
but refers to the WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR chapter (page
17-6) for that purpose.
The information in this chapter can be used for
rebuilding a damaged wheel (saving the hub and using a
new rim) or building a new wheel with all new components;
however, it is written as though a wheel is being rebuilt.
If building a new wheel with new components, merely
substitute the word “build” for the word “rebuild.”
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY
Cross pattern: The pattern created by two sets of
spokes in a hub flange that radiate in opposite directions as 16.1 Parts of a wheel.
the spokes go out to the rim. If a clockwise-radiating spoke
Rim beads
crosses three counterclockwise-radiating spokes from the
same hub flange, then the wheel is said to be a “three-cross
pattern.” Cross patterns are described symbolically. For Outer wall
Sidewall
example, a three-cross pattern is usually written “3X.”
Dish: The centering of the rim to the hub locknuts.
Because the flanges of a rear hub may not be equidistant
Eyelet
from the locknuts, a rim centered to the locknuts is not
Spoke hole
necessarily centered to the hub flanges. Viewed from
Spoke wall
the wheel’s edge, this makes the wheel appear like a dish
viewed from its edge. 16.2 Parts of a rim.
Eyelet: A separate metal reinforcement that goes in Nipple slot: A slot in the nipple head that fits a slot-
the spoke-nipple hole in the rim. ted screwdriver.
Hub: The mechanism at the center of the wheel that Outer wall: The wall of the rim that faces the tube
an axle rotates inside of and to which the spokes attach. and tire. This wall only exists on modular-style clincher
Hub flange: The disc on either end of the hub to rims and tubular rims.
which the spokes attach. Rim: The metal hoop at the outer end of the spokes
Interlace: When a spoke leaves the hub, it crosses to which the rubber tire attaches. The word rim is some-
over other spokes; if it switches to crossing under at the times misused to apply to the wheel.
16 – 1
Rim bead: The edge of the rim to which the tire
attaches.
INDICATIONS
Sidewall: The vertical face of the rim where brake Symptoms indicating the need
pads contact. There are rim sidewalls and tire sidewalls; in for rim replacement or wheel rebuilding
regard to a tire, sidewall refers to the portions of the tire During wheel repair, or before, the following symp-
between the rim bead and the tire tread. toms may be experienced that indicate wheel replacement
Spoke: The wire that goes from the hub to the rim. or wheel rebuilding is desired instead of repair.
Spoke elbow: The end of a spoke that makes a Multiple broken spokes, either all at once or one at
90° bend where the spoke goes through the hole in the a time, over the last few hundred miles
hub flange. Multiple corroded nipples that won’t turn
Spoke head: The flattened disc at the end of the Multiple damaged nipples (rounded-off wrench
spoke elbow that keeps the spoke from pulling through flats)
the holes in the hub flange. Dents or bends in the rim that cannot be adequately
Spoke hole: The hole in the rim where the nipple straightened by normal spoke adjustment and
comes out, although it would be better called the “nipple unbending techniques
hole.” In regard to the hub, the term refers to the hole in Cracks in the rim
the hub flange that the spoke goes through. Severe rim-sidewall wear, evidenced by a concave
Spoke wall: The wall of the rim to which the spokes rim sidewall or by rim beads that have become
attach. wider apart than they were originally
Valve hole: The hole in the rim into which the tire- Whenever these symptoms are specific to the spokes
inflation valve inserts. and nipples, decide whether to keep the rim or replace it.
Wheel: The structure consisting of the hub, spokes, The dilemma is that if the problem with the spokes or
nipples, and rim. nipples is bad enough to prevent truing the wheel, then there
is no good way to tell if the rim is in good shape. If the rim
PREREQUISITES is reused, the damage may not be discovered until most of
the work of truing has been done. As a rule, replace the rim
Wheel removal and installation when the set of spokes needs to be replaced.
Before rebuilding a wheel, the wheel must be removed
from the bike. See the WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
AND INSTALLATION chapter (page 18-6) if unsure about TOOL CHOICES
wheel removal and installation. The most important tool for building a wheel is the
spoke-length system that is used to determine the correct
Tire removal and installation spoke length. There are many systems on the market and all
Before rebuilding a wheel, the tire must be removed will determine the length correctly most of the time. How-
from the wheel. See the TIRES AND TUBES chapter (page ever, there is no ideal system. Each has its own compromise.
19-3) if unsure about tire removal and installation. Short reviews of several of the systems are included in this
Freewheel removal and installation section of the chapter. In the section of this chapter on
To rebuild a wheel, it is necessary to remove the determining spoke length, there are tips for some of these
freewheel or freehub cogs. See the chapter FREEHUB systems and complete instructions for a several of them. The
MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS for free- systems are basically sound, but the instructions that come
wheel removal (page 25-9) and freehub-cog removal with them are usually over-simplified, making each system
(page 25-15). appear simple and easy to use. Because the systems come
with over-simplified instructions, this chapter includes very
Hub adjustment detailed instructions that will enable you to get better results
Before building a wheel, the hub must be adjusted to out of any of these systems than you would get by just using
have no free play when out of the bike. See the chapter the manufacturer’s over-simplified instructions.
on hub adjustment (page 12-12). The spoke-length-calculation systems are either manual
or electronic. The electronic ones require a computer or a
special scientific calculator. The manual ones require the
use of written tables for looking up factors and leave the
math up to the user. Most systems provide hub and rim
data for existing equipment to simplify calculations, but
16 – 2
inevitably wheels need to be built with components that ing all hub measurements, rim measurements, and
are not listed. Consequently, the system’s provisions for wheel-build calculations for each wheel build.
dealing with unlisted equipment are more critical than the Wheelsmith Spoke Length Calculator. This
lists of existing equipment. scientific calculator, programmed specifically for
Barnett’s Manual. This manual includes a com- spoke-length calculation, is simple and quick.
plete spoke-length calculation system. There is no The accompanying book has a reasonable range
additional cost, but using it requires a high level of of rim and hub data, and the system comes with
comfort with basic calculator math. Creating and a good device for measuring rims. The system
maintaining a notebook of rims, hubs, and wheel- for measuring hubs is less precise, but this chap-
build combinations is the only way this system can ter provides more accurate hub-measurement
be used without repeating all hub measurements, techniques. This system is relatively expensive,
rim measurements, and wheel-build calculations requires no computer, and requires no math. Cre-
for each wheel build. ating and maintaining a notebook of rims, hubs,
Bike-alog Spokemaster. Spokemaster is a and wheel-build combinations is the only way
component of the Bike-alog bicycle-product the system can be used without regularly repeat-
database. Although prelisted hub and rim infor- ing hub measurements, rim measurements, and
mation is provided, this program’s strength is wheel-build calculations.
its excellent tools for entering and storing new Tool choices and useful supplies are listed in table 16-1
hubs, rims, and wheel-build combinations. This (page 16-4). The preferred tools or supplies in the table
program is the recommended choice for any are shown in bold face. If there are several tools for the
shop that is a subscriber to Bike-alog since there same purpose that are shown in bold type, the choice is
is no additional cost, no math is required, and strictly a matter of personal preference or price.
it is the only system with a relatively current
database of hubs and rims that can be updated
and stored. The software also has the capacity TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
to store wheel-build combinations. Lacing new spokes into a wheel is a 8–12 minute job
Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics. of little difficulty. This time is based on starting with a
This book covers much more than spoke length, bare hub. This does not include calculating spoke length
but its spoke-length system is one of its most (which varies from 2–10 minutes depending on the system
extensive features. As of 2003, the most recent used) or truing.
edition was published 1995, so the hub and rim
data is of little use. The Bike-alog Spokemaster COMPLICATIONS
program is a computer version of the system
found in Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics, Removing spokes before removing
and it is a superior system. the freewheel from hub
Spoke-Calc by DT SWISS. This is a wall poster On the freehub-type rear hubs that are most common
full of data tables and measuring devices for hubs today, it is not a big concern if the cogs are not removed
and rims. The data tables are based on dimen- from the hub before the spokes are cut or unthreaded.
sions, rather than models, so they never go out Making this mistake on a traditional hub with a thread-on
of date. On the other hand, the lack of a rim and freewheel can be disastrous, because the rim is an indis-
hub database means that for every build, the rim pensable part of the freewheel-removal procedure and
and hub need to be measured, instead of just because the freewheel blocks access to the spoke holes
looked up. The built-in measuring systems are in most cases. See the chapter FREEHUB MECHANISMS
primitive and a likely source of error. However, in AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS (page 25-12) for methods
this chapter, full instructions for use of Spoke-Calc for removing freewheels once the rim has been detached.
(with more accurate methods for measuring com- Usually, a choice must be made between sacrificing the
ponents) are provided. This system is low cost, freewheel or sacrificing the hub.
requires no computer, and requires relatively little Knowing whether to reuse a rim
math. Creating and maintaining a notebook of When spokes start breaking repeatedly, it makes more
rims, hubs, and wheel-build combinations is the sense to replace them all at once rather than one at a time. It
only way this system can be used without repeat- might also be desirable to replace a set of spokes because
16 – 3
of corroded nipples, rounded nipple-wrench flats, or spokes Calculating inaccurate spoke lengths
mangled from a chain over-shift. For reasons of economy, Determining the correct spoke length can depend
a decision is often made to reuse the rim. on taking numerous measurements precisely, looking up
If the problems with the spokes make it impossible or numbers accurately from complex tables without error,
impractical to true the wheel precisely before rebuilding it, and performing a number of mathematical procedures
then there is no way to know whether the rebuilt wheel will without error. Manual systems have all these potential
end up true and with good uniform spoke tension. It can problems. Electronic systems can reduce some of them
be a very false economy to reuse a rim. Unless it is possible but usually not all. Until a mechanic has calculated spoke
to true the wheel and evaluate spoke-tension uniformity length for a large number of wheels without error, it is
before unbuilding the wheel, it is recommended to use a a mistake not to double-check all spoke-length calcula-
new rim when the spokes need to be replaced. tions—recalculation is far less time consuming than
Knowing whether to reuse the spokes building a wheel twice.
When a rim is damaged, it may seem to make sense to Correct spoke length(s) unavailable
replace the rim but reuse the spokes. This can be another It is not unusual to calculate the correct spoke length,
false economy. There is no way to tell what life is left in old only to find that it is not on hand or readily available from
spokes. They may all be on the verge of fatigue failure. It a supplier. For most wheels there is an ideal length and
is strongly recommended to always use new spokes when a range of acceptable lengths of at least plus or minus
installing a new rim. 1mm from the ideal.
If deviating slightly from the ideal does not solve the
problem, then consider switching to another gauge or
another cross pattern. Most wheels are built as a three-
WHEEL-LACING AND WHEEL-BUILDING TOOLS (table 16-1)

Spoke Calc by DT Swiss Wall-chart system (see spoke-length-system reviews on page 16-3)
Bike-alog Spokemaster Recommended (see spoke-length-system reviews on page 16-3)
Sutherland’s Handbook Comprehensive bicycle-reference manual; includes spoke-length system
(see spoke-length-system reviews on page 16-3)
Wheelsmith Programmed scientific calculator (see spoke-length-system reviews on
Spoke Length Calculator page 16-3)
Bicycle Research ND-1 Offset screwdriver for speed-threading of nipples
Z-Tech Aero Driver Installs nipples in deep-section rims
VAR 265 Special nipple driver for electric drills (only useful for production runs of
identical wheels)
Hozan C700 Relatively inexpensive spoke-threading machine (impractical for more
than 2–3 spokes at a time); valuable for creating replacement spokes in
unusual sizes for wheels that just need a few spokes replaced
Phil Wood Spoke Threading Cuts and threads spokes; difficult to cost-justify and difficult to create
Machine consistent length of threading (making truing more difficult)
DT Spoke Ruler Inexpensive spoke ruler (aluminum gauge-notches lose accuracy quickly)
Park SBC-1 Inexpensive spoke ruler (no gauge notches)
Phil Wood Spoke Length Expensive, precise, and durable (superior variety of gauge notches that
Gauge retain accuracy)
Wheelsmith Spoke Ruler Precise and durable (limited variety of gauge notches)
DT Spoke Freeze Thread preparation compound reduces corrosion and vibration loosening
Wheelsmith Spoke Prep Thread preparation compound reduces corrosion and vibration loosening
Sanford Sharpie Fine Point Used for marking on hub and rim (to keep track of where spokes will go)
permanent marker
Wheelsmith RimRods TL102 Used for accurately measuring effective rim diameter
16 – 4
cross, but a four-cross pattern is practically identical in Special hub configurations
function. On front wheels only, a two-cross pattern might There are numerous special hub configurations and
be an option. between the time this manual is being written and a new
Wrong spokes in box edition comes out, there will undoubtedly be more. The
One of the most common situations in a bike shop primary complication of these special hub configurations is
is for spokes in a container to be mixed or all the spokes that most spoke-length calculation systems only apply to the
different from the label on the box (due to lids getting traditional drilled-flange hubs that use elbowed spokes. Rely
switched). Another problem is that gauges of spokes or on the manufacturers of these special-configuration hubs
nipples are wrong or mixed. for spoke-length information.
It is always easier to measure length and gauge of the Spoke hole with
spokes before lacing the wheel than it is to unlace a wheel countersink on inside
and start over again. Measuring every time is the only way
to prevent this common problem.
Building with wrong-length spokes Hub flange
For each wheel there is a range of spoke lengths
that will not cause problems. Beyond this range, there Spoke hole with
are lengths that are too long or too short but that may be countersink on outside
marginally acceptable. Spokes that are way too long or too
short cannot be used. Flange cross-section
When spokes are too long, they protrude past the Countersink
nipple into the tire area. If the nipple is in a recessed socket
and the protrusion is 1mm or less, this is not a problem. 16.3 Cross-section of a hub flange with alternately
countersunk spoke holes.
If the nipple is not in a socket, the protruding spokes will
need filing, which is time-consuming and awkward. Even with the traditional design there are variations
When spokes are too short, they will show thread out- that create complications. The simplest variation is one in
side the nipple. Up to 1mm of exposed thread is nothing which every other spoke hole is countersunk on the outer
more than a cosmetic flaw. More than this raises concerns face of the flange, and all the other holes are countersunk
that there may be inadequate thread engagement between in the inside face of the flange (see figure 16.3). The coun-
the nipple and the spoke. tersinks are designed to accommodate the elbow of the
spoke (highly debatable—see Countersunk or chamfered
Poor fit of spokes to hub flange spoke holes on page 16-9), so dealing with this design is
Spokes may seem to be too tight or too loose in the simply a matter of choosing the first hole correctly so
spoke holes. that the head of the spoke ends up on the opposite side
Some high-performance hubs are made with 1.8mm of the flange from the countersink.
spokes in mind. The 2.0mm size usually fits but is difficult
to install and causes the spokes to come out of the flange Special rim configurations
at an awkward angle. The lacing procedure recommended Not all rims have the same spoke-drilling style. There are
here effectively deals with the problem of the tight spokes three conventional drilling styles; furthermore, the manufac-
coming out of the flanges awkwardly. turers and distributors tend to ignore the issue entirely, so it
Sometimes a flange seems too thin for the elbow of is up to the mechanic to determine the drilling style. There
the spoke. Traditionally, it has been recommended to use are no commonly accepted terms for different styles, so the
washers between the spoke head and hub flange in this following terms are unique to this book. Depending on how
case; however, these washers are virtually impossible to the rim is oriented when being examined, a drilling style can
find. Structurally it makes little difference. appear two exactly opposite ways.
Light-gauge spokes, such as 1.8mm, sometimes seem Hold the rim horizontal with the valve hole on the
loose inside the spoke hole in the hub flange. As long as opposite side of the wheel from your body. Look at the
the spoke is a harder metal than the hub flange, then the two spoke holes to the right of the valve hole to see which
spoke, under load, will always create its own ideal bed of of the following styles a rim matches:
support in the hub flange. Staggered down/up: This is the most common
pattern, and the first hole to the right of the
valve hole is staggered down.
16 – 5
Staggered up/down: This is a less common pat-
tern, and the first hole to the right of the valve
ABOUT THE REST
hole is staggered up. OF THIS CHAPTER
Unstaggered: This pattern is usually found on The rest of this chapter is divided into five parts.
aerodynamic-profile rims, and all spoke holes The first part is about wheel design. This section helps
are directly in line with each other. determine which hub, rim, spoke, and lacing pattern will
For examples of these stagger patterns, see figure be best for any particular reason. The second section is
16.15 (page 16-22). about how to determine spoke length. The third section
Deep cross-section rims have awkward access when is about how to lace the spokes into the hub and rim from
putting a nipple down into its hole. Although tools have scratch. The fourth section is about replacing a damaged
been made for this process, nothing works better than rim while reusing the spokes and keeping them in place.
putting the nipple on a square-shaft toothpick. This should only be done when a new wheel is damaged,
Some aerodynamic-rim designs keep the nipple and it is known that the spokes are not damaged and
entirely inside the rim. Special tools may be required to have not yet begun to fatigue. The fifth section is about
install and adjust the nipples. preparing a just-built wheel for truing.
Conventional rims have equal numbers of holes for
left-side and right-side spokes. Equal spacing between all
holes in the rim is also the convention. Some newer rim
designs have groups of spokes clustered together, with WHEEL DESIGN
more distance occurring between the groups than there When designing a wheel, the designer should keep in
is between the individual spokes in the group. Rims of mind the three types of load that the wheel experiences and
this grouped-spoke design usually don’t require different the performance and reliability criteria that suit the user.
building and truing techniques, but conventional spoke- Wheels experience three types of load. The types of
length-calculation systems are not applicable. Rely on the load are radial load, lateral load, and torsional load.
manufacturer for spoke-length information. Radial load is the load that is experienced in a straight
line between the hub and the rim. Radial loads result from
Different cross patterns the weight on the wheel and from hitting bumps and dips
on each side of the wheel in the riding surface.
The rules change on how to lace a wheel when the lac- Lateral load is load experienced at the rim that is at
ing pattern is not the same on both sides of the wheel. Be right angles to the plane of the wheel. Normal lateral loads
sure to read about the special technique required whenever are relatively slight and occur when the wheel is leaning
building something like a wheel with three-cross on one over but the rider is not (for example, rocking the bike side
side and two-cross on the other side. to side when climbing while out of the saddle). Extreme
Lacing errors lateral loads are experienced when control is lost and the
The complexity of lacing a wheel makes it inevitable wheel receives impact from the side.
that errors will occur. The lacing method in this chapter Torsional load is experienced on all rear wheels and
is designed to reduce error, but, more importantly, it on any wheel that has a hub-mounted brake (disc brakes,
includes periodic checks as the wheel develops stage by drum brakes, and coaster brakes). Torsional load is expe-
stage, so that the errors will be discovered early. Always rienced when drive forces cause the hub to rotate, which
perform the checks! then causes the rim to rotate by means of the spokes. Hub
brakes cause torsional load because the momentum of the
Scratching the rim while lacing the wheel vehicle is causing the rim to rotate and the brake at the hub
Rims can be very expensive, and maintaining the is resisting the rotation. Rim brakes do not cause torsional
cosmetic finish in good condition is an important part load on the wheel structure because the resistance to the
of building a wheel. Don’t hesitate to bow spokes when rim’s rotation is at the rim, not at the hub.
installing them in order to get the tips to clear the rim— In addition to designing a wheel to withstand these
just avoid kinking them. loads, the wheel designer must consider the performance
expectations of the user. Wheel weight and aerodynamic
resistance are the primary considerations that affect per-
formance. In regard to wheel weight, rim weight is most
important, spoke weight is less important, and hub weight
is the least important. These differences are because of the
16 – 6
relative speed of rotation of each wheel component. The Clincher rims are either U-shaped, box section, or
faster the speed of rotation is, the more significant a weight modular. U-shaped rims for clincher tires have no hollow
difference will be. Rim shape, spoke count, and spoke shape to their cross-section and have the least strength for their
are the factors that affect aerodynamics. weight. Box-section rims have a hollow box section at each
The reliability of the wheel is one more consideration corner of the rim cross-section and have an improved
in the design of a wheel. A wheel that will withstand strength-to-weight ratio. Modular rims have a tubular
high radial load is more reliable for the type of user that cross-section with rim flanges attached for mounting a
will subject the wheel to extreme levels of off-road use. clincher tire. This design features the best strength-to-
Heavier riders are also concerned with a wheel’s ability to weight ratio for clincher rims. There are many variations
withstand high radial loads. Rim weight and shape would to the modular design, all of which share the feature of
be important considerations for this user. A wheel that enclosed space between two or more rim walls.
will last many thousands of miles without spoke breakage
is more reliable for the type of user that rides many miles
of smooth road. For this user, spoke gauge and spoke
number choices might be most significant.
The rest of this section on wheel design discusses
the specifics of how rim shape, rim weight, rim materials, U-shaped clincher Box-section clincher
lacing patterns, spoke gauges, spoke quantity, and hub
choices affect how a wheel will hold up and meet the user’s
expectations of performance and reliability.
RIM CHOICES
Materials Modular clincher Tubular
Materials used for rims include steel, aluminum, car-
bon fiber, and titanium. Steel is economical but otherwise 16.4 Common rim cross-sections.
undesirable. Aluminum has a superior strength-to-weight Aerodynamic rims can be tubular or clinchers with
ratio and superior braking performance, making it the box or modular cross-section. They are generally heavier
choice for most applications. Titanium rims of a reason- than their non-aerodynamic counterparts, weaker laterally,
ably low weight have extremely thin wall thickness, so their and stronger radially. Aerodynamic rim shapes are com-
use is limited to the track. Carbon-fiber rims can either be patible with sidepull brakes but are not very suitable for
full carbon fiber or a carbon-fiber “fairing” on the inner cantilever brakes (touring and mountain bikes).
perimeter of an aluminum rim. A full carbon-fiber rim is The best shape for a rim to be used with cantilever
prone to sudden catastrophic failure and provides an infe- brakes is sort of a reverse-aerodynamic shape, narrower at
rior surface for braking, unless carbon-fiber-specific brake the outer perimeter than at the inner perimeter of the sidewall.
pads are used. Aluminum/carbon-fiber combinations have Straight-wall (no slope) rims are almost as suitable for use with
neither of the disadvantages of plain carbon fiber. cantilever brakes. Any rim that is widest at the point where it
Because of its combination of desirable properties, meets the tire is a poor choice for use with cantilever brakes
aluminum remains the rim material of choice for most or brakes that mount on cantilever braze-ons.
spoked bicycle wheels.
Shapes
The cross-sectional shape of a rim and the thickness
of its walls are the primary factors affecting rim strength.
Rims are of either of two categories, tubular (tires are
glued on) or clincher (conventional tires).
Tubular rims have a cross-section shaped like a modi-
fied tube. This is the best shape for strength-to-weight
ratio, but only sew-up tires that are glued onto a rim can 16.5 The aero’ rim type on the left is unsuitable for
be mounted on these rims, so tubular rims are therefore use with cantilever brakes; the rim in the right has
the ideal slope to the sidewalls for use with cantilever
impractical for the majority of cyclists. brakes, but this design is uncommon today.
16 – 7
In conclusion, shape is important because it deter- and elsewhere. Too soft and it bends too easily. Whether
mines whether a rim gets the most out of the amount of a manufacturer uses “heat treating,” “work hardening,” or
material that is used. some other exotic-sounding hardening process, the end
results must be very close to the same or the rim will be
Asymmetrical rims too brittle or too soft.
Symmetrical rims have the attachment point for the
In conclusion, the use of different materials and
spokes centered between the sides of the rim. Asymmetri-
hardening processes mean more to the rim designer than
cal rims have the attachment point for the spokes closer
they do to the end user. Marketing people look for every
to one side of the rim than the other. This design reduces
little tidbit to make their products sound superior. Do not
the tension differential between the left-side and right-side
let these marketing concepts have too much influence on
spokes on wheels built with hubs that have asymmetric
rim choice.
flanges, such as any rear wheel with multiple gears. The
design has merit with little disadvantage. However, the Ceramic coating
other design features that might make one rim preferable Ceramic coatings are put on rim sidewalls to improve
to another may be more limited when choosing from the brake performance. They have no effect on overall rim
smaller selection of asymmetric rims. strength, other than to reduce rim wear from the brake
pads (an important consideration for many mountain bik-
Eyelets (hole reinforcements) ers). These ceramic coatings are effective for the purpose
Rims may be eyeleted to reinforce the rim at the
of improving braking. In conclusion, ceramic coatings are
spoke hole. Single eyelets reinforce the rim only at the
an expensive plus.
spoke wall. Double eyelets form a socket that distributes
the spoke load between the spoke wall and outer wall of Rim weight
a tubular or modular-clincher rim. Eyelets also reduce Rim weight is a significant factor in determining
friction between the nipples and the rim and are critical wheel strength and the bicycle’s acceleration and braking
for this reason when using aluminum nipples. performance. Weight is a function of the overall dimen-
Eyelets are a desirable, but not critical, feature. sions of the rim, the cross-sectional design, and the wall
thickness. It is most useful when comparing two rims of
Anodized rims similar cross-section design (both modular, for example)
Anodized aluminum rims have been chemically
and similar dimensions (both 19mm wide and 14mm
treated to make the surface more corrosion resistant. The
deep, for example). If one rim weighed 10% more than
anodization could be a variety of colors including clear,
the other, the likely reason would be that the heavier rim
gray, silver, gold, blue, red, or black. This results in a rim
would have thicker rim walls at some point. Thicker means
that keeps its appearance better; however, the anodization
stronger. If the extra thickness is uniform throughout,
wears off the braking surface rapidly.
then it means that the rim is stronger overall. If only the
Hard-anodized rims have been chemically treated to
sidewalls are thicker, it means that the rim is stronger
create an anodized layer that not only resists corrosion
radially. If the spoke wall is thicker, it means that the rim
but is more abrasion resistant than plain-anodized rims.
is less likely to fail at the spoke holes, and it has greater
The process incidentally improves the strength of the rim
lateral strength. Whether the extra thickness would be
insignificantly. These rims will be dark in color, such as
uniform throughout is unknown, unless you have access
smoky gray, brownish gray, dark gray, dark blue-gray, or
to the manufacturer’s specifications or have a rim cross-
black. The result is that the hard anodization remains on
section to measure.
the braking surface longer, but it seems to detract from
Clincher rims of the 27" and 700C sizes range in
braking performance.
weight from more than 800 grams to as little as 400 grams.
In conclusion, anodization of all types is an insig-
Less than 475 grams is generally considered to be in a
nificant consideration in wheel design.
range where strength is significantly compromised for the
Heat treating and work hardening advantage of low weight. Manufacturers of 26" narrow
A variety of alloys and hardening processes (heat triathlon rims claim weight savings ranging from 0 to 40
treating) are used in manufacturing rims. These alloy grams for a 26" rim compared to the 700C size of the same
choices and hardening processes cannot be described as model; general weight guidelines for these 26" rims should
having any special significance without also considering not be considered different. Tubular rims (700C) range in
the rim weight and design. There is a very narrow range weight from 480 grams to as little as 280 grams. Less than
of hardness that is suitable to a bicycle rim. Too hard and 375 grams is generally considered to be in a range where
the rim is brittle and tends to crack around the spoke holes strength is significantly compromised for the advantage of
16 – 8
low weight. Mountain bike rims (26") range in weight from For this reason, ignore the countersinking pattern if
750 grams to as little as 390 grams. Less than 450 grams is it interferes with lacing the wheel in the desired way.
generally considered to be in a range where strength is sig-
nificantly compromised for the advantage of low weight.
Hub-core diameter
The advent of front suspensions has led to front-
In conclusion, rim weight is a significant factor in
suspension hubs. These hubs often have a larger-diameter
wheel design, but rim shape determines whether two
core, which has been reputed to increase stiffness.
rims of comparable weight have comparable strength
Research has shown that front-suspension hubs that do
and stiffness.
reduce separate fork-leg action do so because of changes
in axle design. Larger hub cores alone are irrelevant to
HUB CHOICES wheel strength.
Small- versus large-flange hubs Suspension-hub considerations
Large-flange hubs were traditionally thought to Special front hubs are made for use on bikes with
increase a wheel’s lateral, radial, and torsional stiffness. front suspensions. These hub features may include large-
Of these, only the increase in torsional stiffness has been diameter hub cores, oversized axles, oversized skewers,
scientifically verified, but the increase in torsional stiffness and oversized locknut faces. All these features (except
reduces spoke fatigue by an insignificant degree. larger-diameter hub cores) reduce independent leg action
Small-flange hubs have been traditionally described on front forks. It cannot be designed into the hub, but
as having less radial stiffness (making them more com- nothing reduces independent fork-leg action more than
fortable), less lateral stiffness (making them less stable maximizing the security of the hub in the fork. Wheel
in cornering), and less torsional stiffness, which is true, performance is unaffected by all these factors, which work
but of low significance (see above). The assumptions by reducing flex in the axle and motion between the axle
about comfort and lateral stiffness with either flange and the fork leg.
type are false, and the difference in torsional stiffness is Direct-pull flange designs
not significant, so flange diameter should not be a major Direct-pull (or straight-pull) flange designs use a
consideration in designing a wheel. This is also true for spoke that has no elbow. This is a poor design that
mixed-flange designs (small flange on one side and large attempts to solve a problem that does not exist. It has
flange on the other side). been reinvented and abandoned numerous times in the
In conclusion, flange-diameter considerations are history of bicycles. The rational is that since spokes break
relatively insignificant with regard to wheel properties. at the elbow, the elbow should be eliminated. Spokes do
Eight-, nine-, or ten-speed capacity not break at the elbow because it is an elbow but because
Providing more space for a greater number of sprock- it is the anchor point of the spoke.
ets increases the offset of the right flange to the left, which The dynamics of a rear wheel require that the hub
in turn significantly increases the wheel’s vulnerability to rotate slightly under torque loads before the rim responds.
failure when exposed to high lateral loads (generally only The traditional elbowed spoke compensates for this by
experienced during crashes or other forms of losing control allowing the spoke to rotate in the hole in the flange,
of the bike). Asymmetric rims help reduce the structural which, in itself, adds no stress to the spoke. Some direct-
losses that result from the increased offset of the flanges. pull designs allow the hub to wind up before the rim only
In conclusion, giving up a needed gear or spreading a by flexing the spoke, which does add additional stress to
frame to accept a wide version of a hub to prevent wheel the spoke. Direct-pull designs that put the nipple at the hub
failure during crashes is a questionable priority choice. instead of the rim reduce the spoke-flex tendency. Some
Build wheels with no consideration of how the number direct-pull designs, such as are found on Campagnolo
of gears affects lateral strength. wheels, have spoke heads supported by independent seats
in the hub that are free to pivot as the hub rotates prior
Countersunk or chamfered spoke holes to the rim response.
Countersinking is done to improve the mating of The direct-pull design complicates determination of
the spoke elbow to the flange to reduce fatigue. Alu- spoke length, reduces cross-pattern options, increases
minum flanges are softer than spokes, so the edges of spoke inventory, reduces choice of spoke brands and
non-countersunk holes will easily conform (shape) to the gauge options, and in some cases makes it more difficult
shape of the spoke. This “shaping” of non-countersunk to tighten nipples because of a tendency of the spoke to
spoke holes is superior to the “shaping” that occurs if spin in the flange hole.
the spoke holes are countersunk.
16 – 9
SPOKE CHOICES strength by making the wheel more elastic (allowing the wheel
to flex under load without bending). Butted spokes are more
Materials difficult to build with than plain 2mm spokes because they
Carbon-steel spokes (most common, called chrome wind up more as the nipples are tightened. Butted spokes
plated, galvanized, zinc plated) are inexpensive. Stainless- can save several ounces of weight per wheel compared to
steel spokes are corrosion resistant and are usually made plain 2mm spokes, and their smaller diameter creates less
with superior manufacturing techniques, making them a aerodynamic drag.
generally more-reliable choice. Stainless-steel spokes can Aerodynamic spokes are spokes that do not have a round
be identified by the fact that they are not magnetic, or cross-section. They may be bladed (flattened), elliptical (oval),
very mildly magnetic, whereas carbon-steel spokes are or airfoil (best aerodynamics) cross-section. These shapes
fully attracted to magnets. reduce the frontal area exposed to the air as the wheel moves
There are exotic material choices, as well. Both through the air. The aerodynamic benefit is clear when rid-
titanium and carbon-fiber spokes are available in limited ing in windless conditions or directly in line with the wind,
lengths and gauges at extremely high prices. but in cross winds even greater turbulence (and drag) may
Titanium spokes are only available in thicker gauges, be encountered with aerodynamic spokes than would be
which makes them no lighter than the thinnest-gauge encountered with round-section spokes. With many aerody-
steel spokes. Thin-gauge titanium spokes are not possible namic spokes, there is a potential for a compatibility problem
because of the greater elasticity of the material. with a tension meter.
Carbon-fiber spokes are quite thick and may be a seri- Bladed spokes are usually 2mm spokes that have
ous aerodynamic disadvantage. Carbon-fiber spokes are very been flattened. Their weight is comparable to plain 2mm
susceptible to failure due to nicks. The carbon-fiber spokes spokes. If bladed spokes have conventional spoke heads,
are aerodynamically shaped, but they create more drag than the holes in the hub flange must be slotted with a special
thin, round, steel spokes, due to their thickness. tool, which voids any manufacturer’s warranty. Spokes
Often carbon-fiber or titanium spokes disallow use of with an oval or airfoil cross-section are usually 1.8mm
conventional tension meters, resulting in having to guess spokes and have a weight comparable to butted 1.8mm
about the most critical factor in wheel building—correct spokes. The aerodynamic shape of oval or airfoil spokes
spoke tension. is generally superior to bladed spokes, and they usually do
Stick with stainless-steel spokes for a proven combi- not require modification of the hub flange.
nation of reliability, low weight potential, selection, and The best overall spoke gauge is a butted 2mm, and the
vital compatibility with tension meters. best overall choice when performance is a greater prior-
ity than durability is a butted 1.8mm spoke. In addition,
Gauge choices extra-light rims should always be built with light-gauge
The most common gauge is English 14g or ISO
spokes.
(and Japanese) 2mm. Note that English-gauge numbers
increase as the spoke diameter decreases, so a 15g spoke
is thinner than a 14g spoke. NUMBER OF SPOKES
Plain-gauge spokes are spokes that are uniform gauge Conventional full-size wheels almost always use 32
over their entire length (except the thread). Common plain- spokes per wheel. Racing wheels may be built with as few
gauge spokes are 2mm (14g) and 1.8mm (15g). Plain-gauge as 14 spokes per wheel. Touring bikes and tandems often
spokes are economical. Plain-gauge 2mm spokes are the use 48 spokes.
easiest to build with because they wind up the least as nipples
are tightened. For this reason, most machine-built-wheel Spoke quantity, weight, and true
spokes are 2mm. If a spoke breaks, a wheel built with 2mm tolerances
spokes will go out of true less than a wheel with thinner When the number of spokes is reduced, weight is saved,
spokes, because the spokes are less elastic. but, more importantly, aerodynamic resistance is reduced.
Butted spokes are spokes that are thicker at the ends When the number of spokes is reduced, the wheel structure
than they are in the middle. Common butted spokes are is slightly more elastic and resistant to bending. When the
2mm/1.8mm/2mm, 2mm/1.6mm/2mm, 1.8mm/1.6mm/ number of spokes is reduced, each spoke is asked to control
1.8mm, and 1.8mm/1.5mm/1.8mm. Differentials of up to the true of a longer section of rim, which may lead to a
three gauges are now being seen. Butted spokes have the worsening of the lateral-true and radial-true tolerances that
advantage of resisting fatigue by virtue of their thickness can be achieved, particularly with lightweight rims. With
at the ends, where fatigue occurs, and of enhancing wheel conventional wheel designs, this loss of control over true
16 – 10
is particularly troublesome with lightweight rims and less
than 32 spokes. Finally, the total spoke tension needed for
NIPPLE CHOICES
a specific rim used under specific conditions is a relative Nipple length
constant, so reducing the number of spokes increases the Long nipples are designed to protrude further through
amount of tension needed on each spoke. thicker rim walls or to provide a greater length for the
Historically, these problems made spoke counts under wrench to engage. Long and short nipples of the same
32 very impractical. Advances in spoking patterns, rim brand usually have the same depth of thread engagement,
design and materials, and spoke quality now make low- so use of long nipples does not usually allow the use of
spoke-count wheels practical. In particular, the grouped- shorter spokes.
spoke wheel design has greatly improved the issue of poor
control over true. Grouped-spoke wheels have groups of
Nipple materials
Most nipples are made of brass and are plated with
spokes that are very close together, with large empty spaces
chrome or a similar plating. Aluminum nipples are used to
in the rim between each spoke group.
save weight, and, more significantly, in conditions where the
Spoke quantity and fatigue life spokes may snag on obstacles, aluminum nipples are more
The fatigue life of a spoke is directly proportional likely to fail than pull through the rim. The weight saved is
to the number of spokes, all other factors being equal. less than 1 ounce per wheel. Aluminum nipples have a high
Consequently, 24-spoke wheels will start breaking spokes coefficient of friction on non-eyeleted aluminum rims and
at 67% of the life of the same wheel built with 32 spokes. may be more difficult to tighten.
This statistic is even more significant in regard to tandem
wheels. It is reasonable to assume that a tandem experiences
approximately twice the load per wheel as a single bike. If SPOKING PATTERNS
both bikes had the same wheels with 32 spokes each, the life A cross pattern, such as three cross (3X), gets its name
of the spokes in the tandem wheel would be 50% of the life from the number of times a spoke radiating one direction
of the spokes in the single wheel. To get equal spoke life, the from a flange crosses the path of spokes radiating the
tandem wheel would need 64 spokes. Increasing from 32 to opposite direction from the same flange. Most wheels are
48 spokes makes a 50% improvement in the life expectancy built with either a 3X or 4X pattern.
of the spokes on a tandem. Cross-pattern voodoo
On the other hand, extra-spoke wheels on touring bikes The discussion of cross pattern in regard to wheel-
are probably more trouble than they are worth. If the aver- performance characteristics is the source of a great deal of
age rider is about 160 pounds and the average touring bike “voodoo mechanics.” Countless unsubstantiated theories
is about 30 pounds, the average 45-pound load of touring based on subjective experience abound. Suffice it to say
gear only increases the load on the spokes by 24%. More that wheel builders have been experimenting with cross
importantly, the total vehicle load (235 pounds) is only patterns for as long as there have been spoked wheels.
about 4% more than what would be considered a normal- Decades ago the bulk of wheel designers settled on the
but-heavy rider and bike (225 pounds). Although 48-spoke virtually indistinguishable 3X and 4X patterns as the reli-
wheels would have 50% greater spoke life than 32-spoke able ones. Scientific studies have verified these patterns
wheels, the trade off is that replacement rims and spokes to be the best and roughly comparable. Many exotic cross
are much harder to find. patterns are voodoo, not science.
Extra spokes and rim/spoke availability Three-cross and four-cross patterns
At drillings above 32 holes, the selection of rims Traditionally, 3X patterns were thought to create a wheel
becomes very limited. Also, every bike shop in the coun- with greater lateral, radial, and torsional stiffness, and 4X
try is likely to have 32-hole replacement rims and the wheels were thought to have all the opposite characteristics.
appropriate length of spokes, but probably less than 5% All of these opinions have been scientifically disproved.
of the shops in the country have 36-, 40-, or 48-hole rims On the contrary, the only measurable difference in strength
or the unusual spoke lengths sometimes needed for such between 3X and 4X is that 4X patterns have an insignificantly
wheels. Since a tourist can’t carry spare rims, the trade-off greater torsional stiffness. In a more practical sense, 3X has
is not worth it. an advantage over 4X in that the hub does not need to wind
up as far when installing the third set of spokes, so 3X is less
awkward to build with.
On wheels with less than 36 spokes, 4X spoking is
not compatible.
16 – 11
Pick between these patterns on the basis of spoke- this reason should not be used on rear wheels, even if just on
length availability, and build 3X when lengths for both the left flange (which does do part of the job of transferring
are available. torque to the rim from the hub).
Radial, one-cross, and two-cross patterns Five-cross pattern
Cross patterns with fewer crosses than 3X are best If 4X is better than 3X (debatable), then 5X is even
used on very small wheels (less than 20") and are used to better, right? No. Even if 4X were better, it would be better
reduce congestion of spokes at the hub. because it achieves an ideal 90° relationship between the
Performance advocates sometimes suggest using 2X, spoke and the radius of the hub. The 5X pattern devi-
1X, or radial spoke patterns to save weight (through use of ates just as much above the ideal of 90° as the 3X pattern
a shorter spoke) or reduce aerodynamic resistance (only in deviates below. Furthermore, the 5X pattern causes the
regard to radial spoking, and in this case the logic is false). spokes to interfere with each other in a way that causes
Since spoke lengths get shorter when crosses get fewer, them to become kinked or bent.
and shorter lengths are more rare, using 2X, 1X, or radial
patterns often means not getting your choice of spoke
Mixing cross patterns
Mixing cross patterns on rear wheels is sometimes
gauges in order to build the lesser-cross wheel. To build a
suggested as a way to save weight or improve aerody-
radial-spoked wheel with 14g spokes would be heavier and
namics. A typical mix might be 3X on the right side and
have more aerodynamic drag than to build the same wheel
radial on the left. The weight savings by using radial on the
3X with butted-1.8mm spokes.
left would typically be about 3 grams. The aerodynamic
The weight loss of radial spoking compared to 3X is
savings would be none.
4% or as little as 7 grams per wheel. One- and two-cross
Another reason given for mixing cross patterns on
patterns are an even smaller weight savings compared to
the two sides of a rear wheel is to minimize the tension
3X. Aerodynamic resistance is not a factor, because, at
difference between left and right-side spokes. Think of
the top of the wheel where the spokes are moving the
a wheel like a tug-of-war game in which the objective is
fastest in relation to the air mass, changing the cross pat-
to keep the flag on the middle of the rope over the center
tern does not change the face the spokes present to the
line. The rim is the flag on the rope. The spokes on each
air. Radial spoking (and to a lesser degree 1X and 2X)
flange are like the two tug-of-war teams. The balance of
does put stresses on the hub flange in directions that they
tension on each side of the flag must never change if the flag
are not designed to withstand and may lead to sudden,
(rim) is to stay centered. The positions of each member
complete wheel failure. This is particularly an issue with
of the team on one side of the rope can be rearranged
the conventional drilled-flange hub design. This design
countless ways but it will not change the net force they
can be built to withstand the loads of radial spoking, but
must pull with to keep the flag centered. Pretty much the
most hubs made with this type of flange are unsuitable
only way to change the average amount of force required
for low-cross-number spoking patterns. The only clear
from each team member is to change the number of team
exception to this limitation for drilled-flange hubs is when
members (number of spokes).
the wheel is designed as a whole by one manufacturer to
When cross patterns are mixed on a rear wheel, the
function as a low-cross-count design.
only real difference between cross patterns becomes more
Radial spoking, 1X, or 2X have inadequate torsional stiff-
significant. That difference is torsional stiffness. If the
ness to support the wheel under high hub-torque loads from
right-side spokes are a higher cross pattern than the left-
pedaling (rear wheels) or hub-mounted brakes (such as disc
side spokes, then the right side will have greater torsional
brakes on either wheel). For this reason, radial spoking should
stiffness. This means that load on the right-side spokes
not be used on any rear hub or any front hub with a disc brake.
will start the rim moving before the left-side of the hub
In fact, most disc-brake manufacturers mandate the use of a
will have wound up enough to generate torsional load to
3X pattern if the hub has conventional drilled flanges. The
the rim. In other words, on a mixed-cross wheel, only the
spoke geometry of grouped-spoke designs requires use of
spokes on the side with the higher cross pattern will do
lower cross counts. In fact, on wheels of this type, the same
the work of transmitting load from the hub to the rim.
spoke angles that are found on a 32-hole 3X are found on a
Because there are no significant advantages and because
2X wheel with as few as 16 spokes.
fewer spokes will be supporting the torsional load, mixing
Traditionally, radial spoking is thought to increase the
cross patterns is not recommended.
radial and lateral stiffness of the wheel. These characteristics
The fact that this mixed-cross pattern is often found
have not been proven through testing. Radial spoking does
on modern high-performance wheels does not disprove the
reduce the torsional stiffness of the wheel (proven) and for
principle; it is only evidence that these wheels are designed
16 – 12
with performance as a much higher criteria than durability.
Improvements in modern materials may make these wheels
TYING AND SOLDERING
no less durable than historical designs, but they would be SPOKES
stronger yet without the mixed-cross pattern. Tying and soldering is a technique used to restrain the
spokes in case they should break. Although it has been
Pulling spokes heads-in or heads-out credited with increasing the strength and stiffness of the
The argument has been made that pulling spokes
wheel, this has been scientifically disproved. Any process
should be installed with the heads on the inside of the
that alters the metallurgy of the spoke by exposing it to
flange because the spoke is better supported when installed
high heat should be avoided.
in this fashion. Research has shown that pulling spokes
(counterclockwise radiating, viewed from the bike’s right
side) are no more inclined to fail from fatigue than the
pushing spokes. This negates the argument; furthermore,
the argument is based on the assumption that the spoke
DETERMINING SPOKE
touching the flange after it leaves the spoke hole somehow
gives the spoke more support. Since the primary loads in
LENGTH
the spoke are in the shear direction, there is no way that
this additional contact could provide more support. USING THIS SECTION
The other argument about which way the pulling- This section includes a complete procedure for calcu-
spoke heads should face has to do with what will happen lating spoke length without the use of any additional tool
when the chain over-shifts the innermost cog and goes or system. There are also instructions for using Bike-alog
into the spokes. When the pulling-spoke heads are inside Spokemaster, Spoke-Calc by DT Swiss, and the Wheelsmith Spoke
the flange, then the chain has a greater tendency to jam Length Calculator. The process for all these systems requires
in the spokes if pedaling pressure is maintained on the chain; common measurements of the hub and rim. Before any
in this case, the pulling spokes act like guides that catch specific system is covered, there are procedures described
the chain and force it closer to the center of the wheel. for making these hub and rim measurements.
What is often overlooked is that when the pulling-spoke As an alternative to purchasing any of these items,
heads are outside the flange, then the chain has a greater there are numerous free spoke-length calculators available
tendency to jam in the spokes if the rider resists the continued on the Internet. As the addresses for these free tools are
rotation of the chain by keeping the cranks stationary after the ever changing, they are not provided here. Although many
over-shift occurs; in this case, the non-pulling spokes act like of the online systems are undoubtedly accurate and easy
guides that catch the chain and force it closer to the center to use, there is no practical way to review them for rec-
of the wheel. It is impossible to predict what the rider’s ommendations, due to both the number of them and the
behavior will be in this situation, so there is no real value tendency for the sites to change frequently. In many cases,
to build one way instead of the other. these online systems describe hub and rim measurements
The procedure in this chapter creates a wheel that has with terminology that is different from the terminology
the pulling spokes in the flanges with the heads facing out. used in this chapter, but all spoke-length systems rely on
Because no real difference exists, there are not detailed the same measurements. The only challenge is determining
instructions on how to build a wheel the opposite way. to which measurements the terminology refers.
The least-confusing way to get the opposite result is to
put each set of spokes into the opposite face of the flange
than the instructions indicate.
Conclusion
Stick with 3X for hubs with drilled flanges and 32 or
fewer spokes. Use 4X patterns for all types of 36-spoke
wheels except those smaller than 20". For wheels with
non-traditional designs that limit the cross-pattern choice,
there is no choice except to trust that the manufacturer
has designed a reasonably sound wheel, but don’t pre-
sume these performance-oriented designs are optimized
for strength and durability.
16 – 13
HUB MEASUREMENTS but not so easy to measure directly because of the large
offset between the edge of the flange and the face of the
As seen in figure 16.6, over-locknut width is the
locknut. For this reason, a series of measurements and
distance from the face of one locknut to the face of the
calculations are required.
other locknut. Some cartridge-bearing hubs do not use
In step #4 through step #8, the calculations are not
locknuts. In this case, measure to the surfaces that butt
written in their correct mathematical form but as a series
against the inside faces of the dropouts.
of calculator entries. In these steps, fill in the correct mea-
Over-locknut width surements in the blanks under each letter code. To get the
result, enter the values and calculator function keys as
indicated. NOTE: Round all measurements and results
to the nearest tenth-millimeter increment!
4. [ ] Calculate center-width factor for hub (CWF)
16.6 Measure the over-locknut width of the hub. to nearest tenth millimeter.
1. [ ] Measure over-locknut width (OLW) to near- OLW HFT
est tenth millimeter: ___________OLW __________ +
– ____ ÷ 2 =
+ _________CWF
Hub-flange diameter is not actually a measurement of
the flange diameter but a measurement of the diameter
of the circle that goes through the center of all the spoke
holes in a flange (see figure 16.7). Depending on the length
system being used, it may be called hub-flange diameter, flange
diameter, actual hub diameter, spoke-hole-circle diameter, or hole Inset Inset
diameter. It is easiest to measure from the inside edge of left right
one hole to the outside edge of the opposite hole. Truing-stand arms
16.9 Measure flange inset with the hub in a truing
stand. Measure from the inside face of each truing-stand
arm to the outside face of each hub flange.
5. [ ] Measure left-flange inset (LFI): _________LFI
6. [ ] Measure right-flange inset (RFI): _________RFI
Measure
7. [ ] Calculate left center-to-flange (LCF).
CWF LFI
_________ + – _________ = + __________LCF
NOTE: Skip step 8 for non-disc-brake front hubs.
8. [ ] Calculate right center-to-flange (RCF).
16.7 Measure from the top edge of one hole to the top CWF RFI
edge of the opposite hole. This is hub-flange diameter. – _________
_________ + =
+ __________RCF
2. [ ] Measure hub-flange diameter (HFD) to near-
est tenth millimeter: ___________HFD Rear-wheel spoke-length differential
Flange thickness Many spoke-length-calculation systems determine dif-
ferent lengths for the left and right sides of the rear hub
by repeating all the calculations separately for both sides.
Others may use a simplified mathematical calculation that
determines the difference between the left and right sides.
Most systems create an acceptable (but less than ideal)
difference, but they rely on a simple trigonometric model
for determining the length differential; the trigonometric
model does not account for additional stretch that occurs
16.8 Measure flange thickness at the spoke hole. on the tighter right-side spokes. The numbers in table
3. [ ] Measure hub-flange thickness (HFT) to near- 16-2 are based on experience (not calculation) and should
est tenth millimeter: ___________HFT provide more consistently satisfactory length differentials
The center-to-flange dimension is the distance from than differentials that are determined by trigonometric
the center of a flange to the center point between the calculation for each side or generated automatically by
two locknuts. It is easy to describe and easy to diagram the spoke-length system.
16 – 14
Table 16-2 lists the length differentials for most rear-
wheel configurations. The length differential is deter-
RIM MEASUREMENTS
mined by looking for the intersection of the appropriate Nominal rim size
Over-locknut width column (value determined in step #1) Nominal rim size is only needed when using Bike-
with the appropriate Cassette or freewheel space row (value alog Spokemaster. Rim size is often marked directly on
determined in step #9 or step #10). the rim. If the size is not marked on the rim, perform
steps #1 – #2.
1. [ ] Use tape measure to measure outside
diameter of rim.
2. [ ] Look up outside diameter in Approximate rim
O.D. column of TIRE AND RIM SIZES table 19-1
Cassette (page 19-17) and record equivalent rim size
space from the Nominal size column here:
Truing-stand arms ______________ rim size
16.10a Measuring cassette space with the hub in a Wheelsmith RimRods (ERD calculation)
truing stand. Wheelsmith RimRods are used to measure the effective
rim diameter (ERD). To use the rods, insert them into two
9. [ ] Freehubs only: Measure cassette space
(cassette shoulder to locknut face): spoke holes exactly 180º apart, then measure the overlap of
____________mm the rods with a caliper. On smaller rims, the overlap may be
beyond the capacity of the caliper, in which case measure
the overlap with a metric ruler or metric tape measure.
NOTE: When measuring overlap with calipers,
include tenth millimeters. When measuring
with metric rule or tape, estimate closest half-
millimeter increment!
Freewheel
1. [ ] Insert RimRods in two spoke holes
space
180º apart, then measure overlap
Truing-stand arms
and record here: ___________
16.10b Measuring freewheel space with the hub in a 2. [ ] Insert RimRods in two spoke holes
truing stand. 180º apart (3–4 holes clockwise
from previous position), then
10. [ ] Freewheel hubs only: Measure freewheel measure overlap and record here: ___________
space (freewheel shoulder to locknut face): 3. [ ] Insert RimRods in two spoke holes
____________mm 180º apart (3–4 holes clockwise
11. [ ] Transfer OLW from step 1 to here: from previous position), then
____________mm measure overlap and record here: ___________
12. [ ] Look in table 16-2 at intersection of Over- 4. [ ] Insert RimRods in two spoke holes
locknut width column and Cassette or freewheel 180º apart (3–4 holes clockwise
space row for rear-length differential (RLD) from previous position), then
and record here: ____________RLD measure overlap and record here: ___________
5. [ ] Add values in steps 1–4
REAR-LENGTH DIFFERENTIAL (table 16-2) and record result here: ___________
Cassette or Over-locknut width (millimeters) 6. [ ] Enter result from step 5 in first
freewheel 90– 119.6– 124.6– 128.6- 131.1– blank below, then enter values
space 119.5 124.5 128.5 131 136 and function keys into calc-
ulator in sequence indicated.
<29mm 0mm N/A N/A
N/A N/A NOTE: Round result to nearest
29–34mm N/A 1mm 0mm tenth-millimeter increment!
35–38mm N/A 2mm 1mm 0mm _____________ ÷+ 4 = + _____________
>38mm N/A 3mm 2mm 7. [ ] Enter result from step 6 in first
blank below, then enter values
In the upcoming spoke-length-calculation procedures, and function keys into calc-
there are cross-references instructing you to return to ulator in sequence indicated
here for the rear-length differential just determined in to calculate ERD.
step #12. 700 + – _____________ =+ _____________ERD
16 – 15
In the following spoke-length-calculation procedures, 350mm to 700mm rule 0mm to 350mm rule
there are cross-references instructing you to return to here
Rim Rim
for the rim diameter (ERD) just calculated in step #7.
Rim rulers (ERD calculation) 360 370 380 390 400 410 420 430 440 450 460 470 480 490 500 510 520530540550560570580590600610620630640650660670680690
For most spoke-length systems, a dimension called Bench

effective rim diameter (ERD) is required. To get this
dimension without using Wheelsmith RimRods, an accu- 16.11 Setting up the rim rulers.
rate I.D of the rim is needed. To get the I.D., a tool must Read here (511mm)
be made. This tool is called a rim ruler.
The tool is made by modifying two metal metric
yardsticks (available at hardware stores). One of the 360 370 380 390 400 410 420 430 440 450 460 470 480 490 500 510 520 530 540 550
yard sticks needs to be cut off once so that it goes from
0–350mm. The other needs to be cut twice, so that it
goes from 350–700mm. Because material is lost when 16.12 Reading the rim rulers.
the ruler is cut, it is not possible to use one yardstick to To take readings, place one end of the rim-sizing
get both pieces. rulers adjacent to the second hole past the valve hole and
When cutting the piece that must start at 350mm, use a the other end adjacent to the hole half the number of
hacksaw to cut 1–2mm before the 350mm mark (between holes in the rim away from the second hole past the valve
348 and 349) and then use a file to carefully remove the hole. Do not put the rulers against reinforcements of the
excess to the midpoint in the thickness of the 350mm nipple holes but against the main body of the rim. For
mark. Make sure that the end is square (perpendicular additional measurements, move each end of the rulers four
to the top and bottom edges of the ruler). If too much holes clockwise. Take four measurements and average, to
material is removed, it can be compensated for by leaving account for imperfections in the rim.
that much extra on the second piece. Cut the other end at 1. [ ] Measure rim inside diameter (RID) at four
700mm. Precision is not important for this cut. equally spaced points and record:
The second ruler must be cut so that its actual length ( ___________= RID1)
ends up exactly equal to the starting dimension of the first ( ___________= RID2)
ruler. If the first ruler ended up cut precisely at 350, then the ( ___________= RID3)
( ___________= RID4)
second ruler needs to be 350mm long. If the first ruler ended
In the next step, measure the nipple length with a
up cut between the 350 and 351mm marks, then the second
caliper. In this and all other steps involving caliper mea-
ruler needs to end up as close as possible to 350.5mm long.
surements (unless noted otherwise), read the caliper to
Make sure that all cut ends are square. Remember, if the first
the nearest tenth millimeter.
piece ends up with too much cut off at the 350-millimeter mark, leave
the second piece long by the amount of the error. Nipple length
When measuring the rim with rim rulers, the rim must
be lying on a flat surface. The rim rulers stand on their
edges on the same surface, inside the rim, overlapping
each other. Set the rulers up so that the 350–700mm ruler
faces you with the 350mm mark on the left. The second 16.13 Measure the nipple length by putting one caliper
piece will overlap in front and on the right, with the back jaw in the slot in the nipple head and the other against
the other end of the nipple.
side of the ruler facing you (no ruler markings visible, see
figure 16.11). The left edge of the right piece is the point 2. [ ] Measure and record nipple length (NL) from
at which the reading is taken. If the end of the right piece bottom of slot to tip of nipple: __________NL
is touching the 511mm mark, the reading is 511mm (see In step #3, insert the nipple in the rim, then measure
figure 16.12). If it clears the 511mm but does not expose the amount of nipple that protrudes from the rim. Use the
the 512mm mark, then call it 511.5mm. Always read the depth gauge on the caliper to measure with, and make sure
ruler to the nearest half millimeter. the nipple is held firmly in place while measuring.
16 – 16
Press SPOKE-LENGTH CALCULATION

Measurements and counts
1. [ ] Transfer HFD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
step 2 (page 16-14). ____________HFD
2. [ ] Transfer LCF from HUB MEASUREMENTS
Caliper depth gauge step 7 (page 16-14). ____________LCF
3. [ ] Transfer RLD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
step 12 (page 16-15). ____________RLD
4. [ ] Transfer ERD from Wheelsmith RimRods
step 7 (page 16-15) or Rim rulers step
16.14 Measure nipple drop by placing the butt of the
4 (page 16-17): ____________ERD
caliper against a nipple and extending the depth gauge of
the caliper until it meets the rim (not nipple hole eyelets). 5. [ ] Count holes in flange (HIF).
NOTE: Only count one flange! __________HIF
3. [ ] Measure and record nipple drop (ND) from 6. [ ] Decide cross-pattern count
rim to nipple tip: ____________ND (CPC) and enter here: __________CPC
The next step is a calculation. The step is written
as a series of entries into a calculator, not as a mathe- Calculations
matical equation. Treating it as a mathematical formula 7. [ ] In table 16-3, find HIF row and
will result in error. CPC column, then transfer
cosine table value (CTV) found
In step #4, by adding in the nipple length and sub-
at intersection of row and
tracting the nipple drop, the actual distance from the inner column and enter value here: __________CTV
perimeter of the rim to the bottom of the slot in the nipple
head is calculated. This distance must be added at both COSINE TABLE (table 16-3)
ends of the rim inside diameter, so that is why length and Holes in Cross-pattern count (CPC)
drop are included twice in the calculator entries. flange (HIF) Radial 1X 2X 3X 4X
4. [ ] To calculate ERD, fill in blanks with corre- 6 1.00 .50
sponding data from steps 1–3, then enter N/A
8 1.00 .71
values in calculator and press function keys on N/A
10 1.00 .81 .31
calculator in sequence indicated below. NOTE: N/A
12 1.00 .87 .50
Round result to tenth-millimeter value!
RID1 RID2 RID3 RID4 14 1.00 .90 .62 .22
16 1.00 .92 .71 .38
________ +
+ ________ +
+ ________ +
+ ________
18 1.00 .94 .77 .50 .17
NL NL 20 1.00 .95 .81 .59 .31
÷ 4 +
+ ________ +
+ ________ 24 1.00 .97 .87 .71 .50
ND ND ERD 8. [ ] Enter values in ERD blanks, then enter
–
+ – ________
________ + =
+ ________ values and function keys into calculator in
In the following spoke-length-calculation procedures, sequence indicated to calculate A.
there are cross-references instructing you to return to here ERD ERD A
for the ERD value just calculated in step #4. ___________ ×
+ ___________ ÷ 4 =
+ _____________
9. [ ] Enter values in HFD blanks, then enter

values and function keys into calculator in
sequence indicated to calculate B.
HFD HFD B
___________ ×
+ ___________ ÷ 4 =
+ _____________
10. [ ] Enter values in LCF blanks, then enter val-

ues and function keys into calculator in
sequence indicated to calculate C.
LCF LCF C
+ ___________ =
___________ × + ______________________
16 – 17
11. [ ] Enter values in ERD and HFD blanks, then
enter values and function keys into calcula-
SPOKE-CALC BY DT SWISS
tor in sequence indicated to calculate D. The Spoke-Calc system is a wall poster that has graphics
ERD HFD D
on which the hub and rim are placed to determine dimen-
sions and tables in which numbers are looked up based on
___________ ×
+ ___________ ÷ 2 =
+ _____________ the dimensions. The tables contain good data, but experi-
12. [ ] Enter values in D and CTV blanks, then enter mentation has shown that the methods on the poster for
values and function keys into calculator in determining hub and rim dimensions are too subjective,
sequence indicated to calculate E. with different people getting results varying by up to 4mm
D CTV E for the same rim. There are two large data tables on the
___________________ ×
+ ________ =
+ _______________ poster called Table A and Table B. The procedure in this
section can only be utilized in conjunction with the Spoke-
13. [ ] Enter values in A, B, C, and E blanks, then Calc poster. References in the procedure to Table A and
enter values and function keys into calcula- Table B will only have relevance if you are actually looking
tor in sequence indicated to calculate F.
at the Spoke-Calc poster.
A B C
______________ +
+ ______________ +
+ ______________
Measurements and counts
1. [ ] Transfer HFD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
E F step 2 (page 16-14). ____________HFD
– ______________ =
+ + ______________ 2. [ ] Transfer LCF from HUB MEASUREMENTS
step 7 (page 16-14). ____________LCF
14. [ ] Enter value in F blank, then enter values and 3. [ ] Transfer RLD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
function keys into calculator in sequence indi- step 12 (page 16-15). ____________RLD
cated to calculate base spoke length (BSL) 4. [ ] Transfer ERD from Wheelsmith RimRods
NOTE: Round result to whole millimeter! step 7 (page 16-15) or Rim rulers step
F BSL 4 (page 16-17): ____________ERD
_________________ +
√ –
+ 1.5 =
+ _________________ 5. [ ] Count holes in flange (HIF).
NOTE: Only count one flange! __________HIF
Front-wheel length 6. [ ] Decide cross-pattern count
15. [ ] Enter BSL value here for (CPC) and enter here: __________CPC
front-wheel length (FWL): __________FWL
Determine Table A factor
Rear-wheel-differential lengths 7. [ ] Transfer LCF from step 2 to
16. [ ] Enter BSL value here for here for Spoke-Calc Hub Center-
left-side length (LSL): ___________LSL To-Flange Dimension (CFD): ________CFD
17. [ ] Enter values in BSL and RLD 8. [ ] Transfer ERD from step 4 for
blanks, then enter values and Spoke-Calc Rim Diameter (RD): ________RD
function keys into calculator 9. [ ] In Spoke-Calc Table A, find Hub Center-To-
in sequence indicated to calc- Flange Dimension column closest to CFD
ulate right-side length (RSL). value, then find Rim Diameter row closest
BSL RLD to RD value. At intersection of this column
and this row, look up value for Spoke-Calc
– _______ =
____________ + + ______________ RSL
Table A Factor (TAF): __________TAF
Rear-wheel non-differential length Determine Table B factor
Although it is ideal to build rear wheels with different
10. [ ] Transfer HIF from step 5 to blank below,
spoke lengths on the right and left sides, it is acceptable
then enter values and function keys into
to build them with a non-differential length (NDL). This calculator in sequence indicated to calculate
option requires a slightly different length, which is calculated Spoke-Calc Hub Drilling (HD) value.
in the following step. HIF
18. [ ] Enter value in BSL blank, then enter val-
ues and function keys into calculator in ___________________ ×
+ 2 =
+ _____________HD
sequence indicated to calculate rear-wheel 11. [ ] Transfer CPC value from step 6
non-differential length (NDL). for Spoke-Calc Lacing Pattern
BSL (LP) value. ____________LP
–
_____________ + 1 =
+ _______________ NDL
16 – 18
12. [ ] Transfer HFD from step 2 to here
for Spoke-Calc Hub Flange
WHEELSMITH SPOKE-LENGTH
Diameter (HFD): _________HFD
13. [ ] In Spoke-Calc Table B, find section of table
CALCULATOR
that matches HFD value. In addition to the calculator and rim-measuring rods
14. [ ] In section of Spoke-Calc Table B located in
that come with the system, a metric caliper is needed.
previous step, find Lacing Pattern column
The following instructions assume the Wheelsmith
that matches to LP entry, then find Hub
Flange Diameter row closest to HFD value. At Spoke-Length System, including the HP 332SII calcula-
intersection of this column and this row, look tor, is being used. Earlier versions with a Casio calculator
up value for Spoke-Calc Table B Factor (TBF): are not covered here.
__________TBF Measurements and counts
Determine base-spoke length 1. [ ] Transfer HFD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
step 2 (page 16-14). ____________HFD
In step #15 base-spoke length is calculated. Correct
2. [ ] Transfer LCF from HUB MEASUREMENTS
front length, correct right-rear length, correct left-rear step 7 (page 16-14). ____________LCF
length, and correct non-differential rear length are all 3. [ ] Transfer RLD from HUB MEASUREMENTS
based on base-spoke length (BSL). step 12 (page 16-15). ____________RLD
15. [ ] Enter values in TAF and TBF blanks, then 4. [ ] Transfer ERD from Wheelsmith RimRods
enter values and function keys into calcula- step 7 ____________ERD
tor in sequence indicated to calculate BSL. 5. [ ] Count holes in flange (HIF).
TAF TBF NOTE: Only count one flange! __________HIF
– _________
_________ + =
+ __________BSL 6. [ ] Transfer HIF from step 5 to blank below,
then enter values and function keys into
Front-wheel length calculator in sequence indicated to calculate
16. [ ] Enter BSL value here for Wheelsmith number of holes (N) value.
front-wheel length (FWL): __________FWL HIF
Rear-wheel-differential lengths ___________________ ×

+ 2 =
+ _______________N
17. [ ] Enter BSL value here for 7. [ ] Decide cross-pattern count
left-side length (LSL): __________LSL (CPC) and enter here: __________CPC
18. [ ] Enter values in BSL and RLD
blanks (step 3), then enter values
Wheelsmith calculator entries
NOTE: "C" restarts calculation; key with back-
and function keys into calculator
space arrow clears entry.
in sequence indicated to calc-
8. [ ] Press ON key (marked "C") to turn calcu-
ulate right-side length (RSL).
lator on.
BSL RLD 9. [ ] Press XEQ key.
– _______ =
____________ + + _____________ RSL 10. [ ] Press 9 key. R? appears.
11. [ ] Enter ERD value (step 4) on keypad and
Rear-wheel non-differential length press R/S key. F? appears.
Although it is ideal to build rear wheels with different 12. [ ] Enter HFD (step 1) value on keypad and
spoke lengths on the right and left sides, it is acceptable press R/S key. C? appears.
to build them with a non-differential length (NDL). This 13. [ ] Enter LCF value (step 2) on keypad and
option requires a slightly different length, which is calculated press R/S key. N? appears.
in the following step. 14. [ ] Enter N value (step 6) on keypad and press
19. [ ] Enter value in BSL blank, then enter val- R/S key. X? appears.
ues and function keys into calculator in 15. [ ] Enter CPC value (step 7) on keypad and
sequence indicated to calculate rear-wheel press R/S key.
non-differential length (NDL). 16. [ ] Round value on display screen to nearest
whole number and enter here: __________BSL
BSL
–
_____________ + 1 =
+ ______________ NDL Front-wheel length
17. [ ] Enter BSL value here for
front-wheel length (FWL): __________FWL
16 – 19
Rear-wheel-differential lengths NOTE: Options to be selected inside dialog boxes

or lists are in underline type.
18. [ ] Enter BSL value here for
NOTE: Button names and fill-in boxes that have
left-side length (LSL): __________LSL
pop-up descriptions are in plain italic type.
19. [ ] Enter values in BSL and RLD
1. [ ] Click Front or Rear from Choose Front or Rear
blanks, then enter values and
Hub... list that appears (after starting Spoke-
function keys into calculator
master program) then click Next button.
in sequence indicated to calc-
2. [ ] In Choose . . . hub Brand . . . list that
ulate right-side length (RSL).
appears, select brand choice, then click Next
BSL RLD button. NOTE: Hubs entered by an individual
– _______ =
____________ + + _____________ RSL are at end of list (out of alphabetical order)
starting with this word: PERSONAL.
Rear-wheel non-differential length 3. [ ] In Choose . . . hub Model . . . list that
Although it is ideal to build rear wheels with different appears, select exact model of hub, then
spoke lengths on the right and left sides, it is acceptable click Next button. NOTE: Do not select simi-
to build them with a non-differential length (NDL). This lar model—choice must be exact!
option requires a slightly different length, which is calculated 4. [ ] In Choose Rim Size list that appears, select
in the following step. exact rim size, then click Next button.
20. [ ] Enter value in BSL blank, then enter val- 5. [ ] In Choose Rim Brand . . . list that appears,
ues and function keys into calculator in select brand choice, then click Next button.
sequence indicated to calculate rear-wheel NOTE: Rims entered by an individual are at
non-differential length (NDL). end of list (out of alphabetical order) starting
with this word: PERSONAL.
BSL
6. [ ] In Choose Rim Model . . . list that appears,
–
_____________ + 1 =
+ ______________ NDL select exact model of rim then click Next
button. NOTE: Do not select similar model—
choice must be exact!
BIKE-ALOG SPOKEMASTER 7. [ ] In Choose Number Of Holes . . list that
Bike-alog Spokemaster is an integrated component appears, select number that matches hub
of Bike-alog, which is a subscription service for a bicycle- and rim, then click Next button.
industry database. Whenever Bike-alog is launched, there is a 8. [ ] In . . . cross list that appears, select desired
button on the button bar with the image of a spoked wheel. number then click Next button.
Clicking on this button starts the Spokemaster program. 9. [ ] Left and right spoke lengths appear in large
red letters immediately below . . . cross list.
Spokemaster is used by selecting from a series of
Numbers are in millimeters (to tenths) and
cascading lists of hubs, rims, and lacing-pattern choices. should be rounded to whole millimeters.
If the hub or rim is not listed, there is an option to enter 10. [ ] If desired, click Save This Wheel button at
new hubs and rims into the database. At the conclusion top of window and follow directions to save
of any session, there is an option to save the wheel-build wheel-build combination.
combination.
Adding new hubs and rims
Calculation for existing hubs and rims Using Spokemaster for this process is surprisingly lack-
The only information needed for this process is the ing in intuitiveness due to the absence of a linear layout to
hub brand, the exact hub-model name, the rim size, the the program screens, so the following procedure is likely to
rim brand, and the exact rim-model name. Many rims are be helpful on an every-time basis, or at least until multiple
unmarked for size or may be unmarked. If unsure of the repetitions have been experienced. Failure to follow the
rim size, use the Nominal rim size procedure (page 16-15) to steps in this procedure in the correct sequence often voids
determine the rim size. Using Spokemaster for this process earlier steps, which can be very confusing.
is relatively simple, so the following procedure can easily be NOTE: Go to step 6 if you are only adding a new rim!
done without a checklist after one use. 1. [ ] Transfer OLW from HUB MEASUREMENTS
NOTE: Spokemaster dialog-box and list-box step 1 (page 16-14). ____________OLW
names are in plain bold type. Names may be 2. [ ] Transfer HFD from HUB MEASUREMENTS step 2
lengthy and change depending on previous (page 16-14). NOTE: If flanges are different
option selected, so partial names are shown diameters, measure HFD for both sides.
with ellipsis ( . . . ) substituted for omitted left ____________HFD
segments of dialog-box/list-box name. right ____________HFD
16 – 20
3. [ ] Transfer HFT from HUB MEASUREMENTS 16. [ ] Enter right-side HFD value in Right Flange
step 3 (page 16-14). ____________HFT Diameter . . . cell.
4. [ ] Transfer LFI from HUB MEASUREMENTS 17. [ ] Enter manufacturer in Custom Hub Manufac-
step 5 (page 16-14). ____________LFI turer box below hub graphic.
5. [ ] Transfer RFI from HUB MEASUREMENTS 18. [ ] Enter model name in Custom Hub Model box
step 7 (page 16-14). ____________RFI below hub graphic.
6. [ ] Transfer ERD from Wheelsmith RimRods 19. [ ] Enter optional comments in Comments box
step 7 (page 16-15) or Rim rulers step 4 below hub graphic.
(page 16-17) ____________ERD 20. [ ] Click Save New Hub button at top of hub
NOTE: Go to step 21 if only adding a new rim! graphic.
7. [ ] Enter values in HFT and LFI blanks, then 21. [ ] If adding new rim: Open Spokemaster if it
enter values and function keys into calcula- is not already open, then click Add/Edit Per-
tor in sequence indicated to calculate Left sonal Rim button at top of window.
Locknut To Left Flange Center (LLF). If not adding new rim: Click Exit Personal but-
HFT LFI LLF ton at bottom of window, then go to step 30.
22. [ ] Click Add New Rim button at bottom right
___________ ÷ 2 +
+ ___________ =
+ _____________ of window that appears.
8. [ ] Enter values in HFT and RFI blanks, then 23. [ ] Select exact rim size from Choose Rim Size
enter values and function keys into calcula- for New Rim list in left side of window.
tor in sequence indicated to calculate Right NOTE: If unsure of rim size, use Nominal rim
Locknut To Right Flange Center (RLF). size procedure (page 16-15) to determine
HFT RFI RLF rim size.
NOTE: There is one green entry cell inside rim
___________ ÷ 2 +
+ ___________ =
+ _____________
graphic in current window. Pausing pointer over
NOTE: Spokemaster dialog-box and list-box cell causes pop-up description to appear. In step
names are in plain bold type. Names may be 24, pop-up description is in plain italic type.
lengthy and may change depending on pre- 24. [ ] Enter ERD value in Spoke End To Spoke End
vious option selected, so partial names are Diameter cell.
shown with ellipsis ( . . . ) substituted for 25. [ ] Enter manufacturer in Custom Rim Manufac-
omitted segments of dialog-box/list-box name. turer box below rim graphic.
NOTE: Options to be selected inside dialog boxes 26. [ ] Enter model name in Custom Rim Model box
or lists are in underline type. below rim graphic.
NOTE: Button names and fill-in boxes that have 27. [ ] Enter optional comments in Comments box
pop-up descriptions are in plain italic type. below rim graphic.
9. [ ] After opening Spokemaster, click Add/Edit 28. [ ] Click Save New Rim button to left of rim
Personal Hub button at top of window that graphic.
appears. 29. [ ] If not adding new hub: Click Exit Personal
10. [ ] Click Add New Hub button at bottom right button at bottom of window
of window that appears. If adding new hub: Open Spokemaster if it
11. [ ] Click Front or Rear from Choose Front or Rear is not already open, then click Add/Edit Per-
for New Hub list in left side of window. sonal Hub button at top of window.
NOTE: There are five green entry cells surrounding 30. [ ] When done adding hub(s) and/or rim(s), go
hub graphic in current window. Pausing pointer to Calculation for existing hubs and rims section
over each cell causes pop-up description to (step 1, page 16-20).
appear. In steps 12–16, pop-up descriptions are
in plain italic type.
12. [ ] Enter OLW value in Over Locknut Width cell.
13. [ ] Enter LLF value in Left Locknut To Left
Flange Center cell.
LACING WHEELS
14. [ ] Enter RLF value in Right Locknut To Right
Flange Center cell.
NOTE: Steps 15–16 pop-ups are lengthy, so par-
CONVENTIONAL WHEELS
Conventional wheels have equal numbers of spokes
tial descriptions are shown with ellipsis ( . . . )
substituted for omitted ends of pop-ups. on each side of the wheel, spoke nipples at the rim end
15. [ ] Enter left-side HFD value in Left Flange of the spokes, and spokes that attach to the hub by means
Diameter . . . cell. of an elbow design. Conventional wheels may have a wide
range of spoke counts and may be built with a number of
16 – 21
spoking configurations including radial, 1X, 2X, 3X, and When building the wheel, the process will alternate from
4X patterns. Paired-spoke or grouped-spoke wheels that right side to left side, so the A and C spokes will be on
meet these conditions are still conventional wheels for the right side of the wheel and the B and D spokes will
lacing purposes, despite their different appearance. be on the left side. Once this system of marking the rim
The following procedure for lacing conventional has become familiar, it will suffice to simply mark the first
wheels is also applicable to wheels with different spoking spoke hole for each family.
patterns on each side of the wheel. Wheels with mixed 6. [ ] Lay rim on a surface, rotate in order to look
cross patterns on one side of the wheel are not covered directly at valve hole in inner face of rim,
in this manual. and observe that spoke holes are staggered
NOTE: If building a new wheel from scratch, start so that every other hole is up and every
with step 6. other hole is down. There are some cases
when there is no obvious stagger.
Preparing an existing wheel for rebuild Down/up stagger
If reusing an old rim, there is a chance that rim dam- R
age will be discovered after it has been laced and partially

trued. If reusing an existing rim, it is important to loosen R
Up/down stagger
all the spokes before cutting them out. Cutting spokes
under full tension can damage the rim. A common begin-
No stagger
ner mistake with disastrous consequences is to cut out or R
unthread the spokes on a rear hub with a freewheel before

removing the freewheel. Since normal freewheel removal
requires the presence of the rim, this will mean either 16.15 Mark an “R” on the rim at the valve hole.
sacrificing the hub or the freewheel. Once the rim has Note that on some rims the spoke holes are staggered
so that when the rim is on its side, the holes alternate
been removed, there is no guaranteed way to save and
down then up (clockwise from valve hole), on some
reuse both the hub and freewheel. rims the spoke holes are staggered the opposite, and
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike. on some rims there is no spoke-hole stagger.
2. [ ] Remove tire, tube, and rim strip.
7. [ ] Put an “R” at valve hole on side of rim facing
3. [ ] Remove thread-on freewheel or freehub cog-
up with marker to indicate right side of rim.
set, if any.
4. [ ] If saving rim, loosen all spokes until slack. The location of the first up hole varies with the stag-
5. [ ] Cut out all spokes. ger pattern of the rim (see figure 16.15).
Down/up stagger
Preparing the rim and hub R A1
The steps in this group are the most critical to the
entire process. All thinking and decisions that need to be
made are made here. If these steps are done correctly, the
Up/down stagger
rest of wheel lacing is little more than connect-the-dots. R A1
The general concept here is to prepare the rim by giving
every spoke hole in the rim a unique name. These names
will be based on names that will be given to each spoke. No stagger
Like names for people, each of these names will have two R A1
parts, indicating the family the spoke belongs to and the
name for the individual as well. In the case of wheels, there
are always four families. The spokes are divided into two
16.16 Mark the first up-hole clockwise of the valve
obvious groups, the left side and right side of the wheel. hole to be A1.
Look at a wheel from either side. See that on each side of
8. [ ] Mark first up-hole clockwise of valve hole
the wheel there is a set of spokes that radiate out from
to be A1. In cases where there is no obvi-
the hub in a clockwise direction and a set of spokes that ous stagger, mark second hole clockwise of
radiate counterclockwise from the hub. valve hole to be A1.
Two sides with two directions on each side creates The following step, #9, is useful initially, but once the
four families of spokes. The family names are A, B, C, lacing process is familiar, it is a good step to skip.
and D. In a 32-spoke wheel there are eight spokes in each
set, so each family of spokes (and corresponding holes)
will be numbered A1–A8, B1–B8, C1–C8, and D1–D8.
16 – 22
A2
The following step, #14, is useful initially, but once
A1 A3 the lacing process is familiar, it is a good step to skip.
B2
16.17 Working clockwise, mark every fourth hole A2, B3 B1
A3, etc.
9. [ ] Continue clockwise around rim, marking 16.21 Working counterclockwise, mark every fourth
hole B2, B3, etc.
every fourth hole A2, A3, A4, etc., until
back to A1. There should be three holes 14. [ ] Continue counterclockwise around rim,
between each pair of “A” holes. marking every fourth hole from B1 to be B2,
Down/up stagger B3, B4, etc., until back to B1.
A1
R C1 Down/up stagger
D1 B1 L
Up/down stagger
R A1 C1
Up/down stagger
B1 L
D1
No stagger
R A1
C1
No stagger
D1 B1 L
16.18 Mark the first up-hole clockwise of A1 to be C1.
10. [ ] With right side of rim still up, mark hole that
is two holes clockwise of A1 to be C1. This 16.22 Mark the first up-hole counterclockwise of B1
hole is always halfway between A1 and A2. to be D1.
The following step, #11, is useful initially, but once 15. [ ] With left side of rim still up, mark second
the lacing process is familiar, it is a good step to skip. hole counterclockwise of B1 to be D1. This
A2
C2
A3
hole is always halfway between B1 and B2.
C1 C3 The following step, #16, is useful initially, but once
the lacing process is familiar, it is a good step to skip.
16.19 Starting four holes clockwise from C1, mark B3
D2
B2
every fourth hole C2, C3, C4, etc. D3 D1
11. [ ] Continue clockwise around rim marking every

fourth hole C2, C3, C4, etc., until back to C1. 16.23 Starting four holes counterclockwise from D1,
12. [ ] Turn rim over, rotate rim to look directly at mark every fourth hole D2, D3, D4, etc.
valve hole in inner face of rim, and put an 16. [ ] Continue counterclockwise around rim,
“L” at valve hole. marking every fourth hole D2, D3, D4, etc.,
Down/up stagger until back to D1.
B1 L
Steps #17 and #18 establish a starting hole in the
right flange for spokes of the “A” set. On the rear hub,
(A1) the freewheel-mounting threads or freehub body clearly
Up/down stagger
B1 L distinguish the right side. There is no true right to a front
hub, but it is necessary to create one in order to follow
(A1) the lacing procedure. An easy way to do this is to wrap a
No stagger rubber band around the axle set to mark the right side.
B1 L
17. [ ] Front hubs only: Mark one side of hub to
indicate an arbitrary right side.
(A1) In the following step, any hole in the right flange
16.20 Mark the first up-hole counterclockwise of the may be marked. If alternating holes are countersunk, it is
valve hole to be B1. optional (but unnecessary) to select a hole that is not coun-
13. [ ] Mark first up-hole counterclockwise (left) of tersunk. The merits (or lack of them) to countersinking
valve hole to be B1. In cases where there is holes is discussed in the earlier section Countersunk or
no obvious stagger, mark first hole counter- chamfered spoke holes (page 16-9).
clockwise of valve hole to be B1.
16 – 23
18. [ ] Use marker to mark any spoke hole in right- spoke that is inserted through a spoke hole in the right flange.
side hub flange on both faces of flange. If Whether to mark the hole to the left or to the right depends
holes are alternately countersunk, it is optional on whether the first spoke hole to the right (clockwise) of
to mark a hole that is not countersunk (see the valve hole in the rim is up or down, an observation made
figure 16.24).
in step #19. There is no benefit to having the first hole to
Step #19 is very straightforward, unless the rim is the right of the valve hole up or down; manufacturers do it
one of the rare models that have no apparent spoke-hole different ways as a matter of preference. However, when building
stagger. In this case, as it was in step #8, it is important the wheel, ignoring this difference will result in half the spokes ending up
to pretend that there is a stagger to the spoke holes, so much tighter than the others and the wheel must be rebuilt! The explana-
that the instructions will be consistent for staggered and tion for why this would happen would only create confusion;
unstaggered rims. simply take care to mark the hole in the left flange correctly.
19. [ ] With either side of rim up, observe whether
When marking the hole in the left flange, mark it so that the
first hole clockwise of valve hole is:
up or down (circle one). mark can be seen from the both faces of the flange.
(If, in step 8, second hole clockwise from Mark this hole Mark this hole if
valve hole was marked to be A1 because if down is up is circled
=X =X
there was no obvious hole stagger, circle circled in -1X -1X in step 19
down for this step.) step 19
-2X -2X
-3X -3X
Mark one
hole
Right flange Left flange
16.25 With the spoke held parallel to the axle, mark

the appropriate hole in the left flange to be the first hole
of the “B” set. Ignore -1X, -2X, and -3X markings unless
Right flange building a mixed-cross wheel.
16.24 Mark any hole in the right flange and insert a Step #21, as written, only applies to wheels that use
spoke as shown. the same cross pattern on the left and right sides. However,
marking the hole in which to install the first B spoke (step
20. [ ] From outside of flange, temporarily insert
a spoke several inches into marked hole in #21) is where the change occurs when building mixed-cross
right flange. wheels. If building a mixed-cross pattern, see figure 16.25
Step #21 is a critical step that selects the correct hole and observe the holes marked -1X, -2X, and -3X. The mark
in the left flange for the first spoke of the “B” set. Insert should be at the -1X hole if the left-side cross pattern is one
a spoke into the right flange (from the outside), keep it less than the right side, the -2X hole if two less than the right
parallel to the axle, and stop it against the back side of the side, or the -3X hole if three less than the right side. Whether
left flange between two spoke holes. The design of hubs is to use the -1X, -2X, or -3X on the left or right of the spoke
such that there is never a spoke hole in the left flange that is is determined in the same way as is indicated in step #21.
directly opposite a spoke hole in the right flange, so pick 21. Hold hub to face right end of axle (left end of
axle is pointing away) and so hole with spoke
a space between two holes in the left flange to stop the
in it is at 12 o’clock. Keeping spoke in line
spoke. If not sure the spoke is in the right space between with the axle, push spoke through until it
holes, try one space to the right and one space to the left. bumps into back side of left flange between
It should be easy to see obvious differences in whether the two spoke holes. If spoke is straight, end of
spoke remains parallel to the axle. spoke should end up between two holes in
With the left flange away and the right flange close, left flange (holes in left and right flange are
mark a hole in the left flange to the left or right side of the staggered to each other and do not line up).
16 – 24
[ ] Mark first hole (both faces of flange) in left
flange counterclockwise of spoke if down
Lacing the “A” set
was circled in step 19. A1
[ ] Mark first hole (both faces of flange) in left
flange to clockwise of spoke if up was cir- Right flange
cled in step 19.
NOTE: If building a mixed-cross pattern, in step 21
use hole marked -1X for one-less cross, -2X for
two-less crosses, or -3X for three-less crosses
(see figure 16.25).
Preparing the spokes
22. [ ] Divide total number of spokes by 4 to
determine number of spokes to be in each
set of four. Spokes per set is: __________.
Nothing is more exasperating than getting a wheel
laced up and mostly trued and then discovering that the
16.26 Insert spoke in marked hole. Insert spokes in
spokes are all the wrong length or that they are mixed-up the same fashion in every other hole in the flange.
lengths. Step #23 and #24 are critical to prevent this, so
26. [ ] Insert spoke from one right-side set into
they are well worth the effort. In step #23, if using two
marked hole in right flange so that spoke
lengths of spokes for a rear wheel, it is critical to get the head ends up on outside of flange.
correct length on each side of the wheel. Start by putting 27. [ ] Insert spoke in every other hole in right flange,
the short spokes on the right side of the bench and long all with heads facing out (see figure 16.26).
spokes on the left side of the bench. When selecting a
spoke set to install in the right flange, choose a set from A1
the right side of the bench; when selecting a spoke set

to install in the left flange, choose a set from the left side
of the bench.
In step #24, use a spoke ruler to make sure that all Right flange
the spokes in a group are the same length and that all are
the correct length. To use a spoke ruler, hang the bend 16.27 Attach spoke in marked hole to A1 at rim, then
attach remaining A spokes to every fourth hole clock-
of the spoke in the hole at the “0” end of the ruler and wise after A1.
read the length at the end of the thread. If the end of the
28. [ ] With right side of rim and right end of hub
spoke ends up between two marks, use the higher value.
facing up, attach spoke in marked hole
If using a regular ruler, measure from the inside of the in right flange to A1 hole in rim, covering
bend to the end of the thread. approximately half of thread length with nip-
23. [ ] Put two sets of spokes on bench to right ple. Continue clockwise around hub, insert-
of rim and two sets to left of rim. NOTE: ing each next spoke to fourth hole clockwise
If building rear wheel with shorter spokes in rim from last spoke (threading each nipple
on right side, be sure shorter spokes are on on halfway).
bench on right side of wheel! Step #29 is a set of inspections to confirm everything
24. [ ] Arrange all spokes in each set so that thread
is done correctly so far. It becomes a real headache to find
ends are together. Stand each set up on
thread ends and make sure all spokes are
out in a later set that something was wrong from early on,
same length. Measure one spoke from each so be thorough about these inspections.
set to make sure it is correct length. 29. With right side of rim facing up, rotate rim to
look at valve hole in inner face of rim and
Prepping the threads with either oil or a special spoke-
inspect for following:
prep compound is vital. Oil will provide reasonable protec-
[ ] Right side of axle should be pointing up.
tion from corrosion, but it needs to be renewed periodically. [ ] If building a rear wheel with two different
Spoke-prep compounds last longer (in terms of corrosion spoke lengths, two sets of spokes should be
prevention) and also act as a mild Loctite to keep nipples left on bench on left side of wheel.
from unthreading if they lose tension. [ ] A spoke should be in first up-hole clockwise
25. [ ] Prep all threads with spoke-prep compound from valve hole.
or oil. [ ] Three empty holes should be between every
filled spoke hole in rim.
16 – 25
[ ] Every other hole in right hub flange is filled. Step #30 is a series of inspections. Just as with the
[ ] All spoke heads are on outside face of flange. “A” set, if anything is left wrong with the “B” set, it can
30. [ ] If any of inspections in step 29 are failed be extremely difficult to figure out what went wrong with
and cause is not immediately obvious,
the “C” set. When something goes wrong putting in the
remove all spokes and restart from step 26.
“C” set, the tendency is to think the problem is with the
Lacing the “B” set “C” set instead of with the “B” set. Perform these inspec-
The “B” set is the mirror image of the “A” set, just tions religiously. Then, if anything goes wrong with the
on the other side of the wheel. The most important parts “C” set it will be known that the problem is limited to the
of doing the “B” set were already done, step #13 and step spokes just put in.
#21, when the starting holes for the “B” set in the rim 35. With left side of rim facing up, rotate rim to
and in the left flange were marked. look at valve hole in inner face of rim and
31. [ ] Turn wheel over so left side of hub and inspect for following:
rim are up and rotate rim to look directly at [ ] If building a rear wheel with two different
valve hole in inner face of rim. spoke lengths, one set of spokes should be
B1 left on bench on each side of wheel.
[ ] A spoke should be in first up-hole counter-
clockwise of valve hole.
Left flange [ ] Two empty holes should be between every
pair of filled spoke holes in rim.
[ ] Every other hole in left hub flange is filled.
[ ] All spoke heads are on outside face of flange.
36. [ ] If any of inspections in step 35 are failed and
cause is not immediately obvious, remove all
B spokes and restart from step 31.
Lacing the “C” set
37. [ ] Cross-pattern wheel only: With left side of
wheel still facing up, insert remaining set of
right-side spokes down into right flange so
16.28 Spoke B1 is put in the hole marked in the left that spokes end up with heads on inside of
flange in step #16. right flange (see figure 16.30).
32. [ ] Insert spoke from one left-side spoke set Radial wheel only: With right side of wheel
into marked hole in left flange, so that spoke facing up, insert remaining set of right-side
head ends up on outside of flange. spokes down into right flange so that spokes
33. [ ] Insert spoke in every other hole in left flange, end up with heads on outside of right flange.
all with heads facing out (see figure 16.28).
"C" set spokes
B1
Left flange
Left flange
16.29 Attach spoke in marked hole to B1 at rim, then

attach remaining B spokes to every fourth hole counter-
clockwise after B1. The “A” set spokes are in place at
this time but are not shown.
34. [ ] With left side of rim and left end of hub
facing up, attach spoke in marked hole in
left flange hole to B1 hole in rim, covering
approximately half of thread length with
nipple. Continue clockwise around hub and Right flange
rim, inserting each next clockwise spoke to
fourth hole clockwise in rim from last spoke
16.30 Insert the remaining spokes from the right side
(see figure 16.29). of the bench in the right flange in this fashion.
16 – 26
The cross pattern is established in the “C” set. Rather hole to find C1 always equals the number of the cross pat-
than counting crosses to determine where the spokes need tern. Counting clockwise from C1, the rest of the spokes
to go, the spokes are installed by rote and then the cross in the C set are considered C2, C3, C4, etc.
is counted to verify what happened. The “C” set is going
in the right flange. The “A” set is the other set in the right
flange and its spokes have the heads to the outside of the C1 C2
flange. Just as sets are alternating from right flange to left
flange and back to right flange, sets in the same flange will C8 C3
alternate so that the spoke heads alternate head-out (“A”
set) and head-in (“C” set). To do this, the spokes are fed
A1
into the right flange from the left side of the hub. Then C7 (if 3X)
C4
the wheel is turned over so that the right flange is up.
38. [ ] Turn wheel over so that right flange faces up.
C6 C5
A key step here is finding the right spoke to pick to be
C1. Because the location of C1 changes with each cross
pattern, it is necessary to count a different number of
spokes (for each different cross pattern) counterclockwise 16.32 Consider the remaining “C” set spokes clockwise
from the marked hole in the right flange (marked in step from C1 to be C2, C3, etc. This illustration is a 3X wheel.
The relationship between the “C” spokes and A1 changes
#18 and now containing spoke A1) to find the correct
with the cross pattern, as shown in figure 16.31.
spoke to be C1. The exception to this is with radial spok-
ing, in which case the C1 spoke will be the first “C” set In the following step, if comfortable with the pro-
spoke clockwise of the marked hole. cedure it is OK to just mark the C1 spoke and skip marking
1X pattern: C1 spoke is the first “C” spoke counter- the additional spokes of the C set.
clockwise of the marked hole in the right flange. 39. Do one of next five options depending on spoke
cross pattern being used (see figure 16.31).
2X pattern: C1 spoke is the second “C” spoke coun-
NOTE: After completing a choice below, it is
terclockwise of the marked hole in the right flange. optional to mark all “C” set spokes as in fig-
3X pattern: C1 spoke is the third “C” spoke counter- ure 16.32.
clockwise of the marked hole in the right flange. 4X PATTERN:
4X pattern: C1 spoke is the fourth “C” spoke coun- [ ] Select 4th C-set spoke counterclockwise of
terclockwise of the marked hole in the right flange. marked hole in right flange to be C1.
"C1" for 1X "C1" if radial 3X PATTERN:
[ ] Select 3rd C-set spoke counterclockwise of
only marked hole in right flange to be C1.
A1 2X PATTERN:
[ ] Select 2nd C-set spoke counterclockwise of
"C1" for 2X Right flange only marked hole in right flange to be C1.
1 0
1X PATTERN:
[ ] Select 1st C-set spoke counterclockwise of
2 only marked hole in right flange to be C1.
RADIAL PATTERN:
[ ] Select 1st C-set spoke clockwise of only
3 marked hole in right flange to be C1.
40. [ ] Holding rim stationary, rotate hub clockwise
as far as it comfortably can go.
4
"C1" for 3X In the next step, create the cross pattern. After
attaching spoke C1 to the rim at hole C1, trace the path
of spoke C1 back from the rim to the hub flange. It will be
found that it crosses the same number of “A” set spokes
"C1" for 4X as the name of the cross pattern. For a 3X and 32-spoke
16.31 Depending on the cross pattern, different wheel, it will be found that C1 crossed A1, A8, and A7.
spokes are selected to be C1. See figures 16.33 and 16.34 on page 16-28.
With the exception of radial spoking, the number of
“C” spokes counted counterclockwise from the marked
16 – 27
"B" spokes in place, but not shown 44. [ ] With right flange up, inspect one set of three
C2, C3, etc. in flange, but not shown consecutive spokes at rim for whether set
consists of, in order, one up-flange spoke, one
down-flange spoke, then one up-flange spoke.
A8 C8 A1 45. [ ] Inspect that each “C” spoke crosses under
Cross 2 C1 an “A” spoke just before reaching rim. Cor-
C7
Cross 1 rect any spokes that don’t cross under.
Cross 3 (under)
46. [ ] If any of inspections in steps 43 and 44 are
(A7) failed and cause is not obvious, or if remain-
ing group of spokes on bench is on right
16.33 In this 3X, 32-hole example, C1 crosses over
(if building a rear wheel with two spoke
A7 and A8, then under A1. See figure 16.34 for 3X, 36
hole and 4X, 36 hole examples. lengths), remove all C spokes and restart
from step 37.
Lacing the “D“ set
The “B” set is the first set in the left flange and its
C1
A9 spokes have the heads to the outside of the flange. Just as
A1 C1
A8 the insertion of spoke sets has alternated from right flange
A9
to left flange and back to right flange, spoke sets in the
A7
A1
same flange will alternate so that the spoke heads alternate
A8 head-out (“B” set) and head-in (“D” set). To do this, the
spokes are fed into the left flange from the right side of
the hub. After the spokes have been inserted, the wheel is
turned over so that the left flange is up.
"D" set spokes
16.34 The left example is a 3X, 36-hole wheel and
the right example is a 4X, 36-hole wheel.
41. [ ] Move spoke C1 until it points to hole C1. Right flange
Flex it slightly, in order to pass tip of spoke
C1 under spoke A1, then insert spoke C1
into hole C1, covering approximately half of
spoke-thread length with nipple.
42. [ ] Repeat previous step for spoke C2, C3, C4,
etc., consecutively. Each spoke attaches to
rim exactly four holes after last spoke and
always crosses under last A spoke before
reaching rim.
The next three steps are inspection steps. As with
the previous spoke sets, do not let confidence encourage
skipping these steps before doing the “D” set. Left flange
43. [ ] Inspect at rim for each set of three filled spoke
holes separated by one empty spoke hole. 16.36 Insert the remaining spokes from the left side of
the bench in the left flange in this fashion.
47. [ ] Cross-pattern wheel only: With right side
of wheel still facing up, insert remain-
ing set of left-side spokes down into left
flange so that spokes end up with heads
on inside of left flange (see figure 16.36).
Radial wheel only: With left side of wheel
facing up, insert remaining set of left-side
spokes down into left flange so that spokes
16.35 Each set of three spokes separated by an end up with heads on outside of left flange.
empty hole should consist of one up spoke, a down 48. [ ] Turn wheel over so that left flange faces up.
spoke in the middle, and another up spoke.
A key step here is finding the right spoke to mark to
be D1. Because the location of D1 changes with each cross
16 – 28
pattern, it is necessary to count a different number of spokes In step #49, if comfortable with the procedure, it
clockwise from the marked hole in the left flange to find the is OK to just mark the D1 spoke and skip marking the
correct spoke to mark D1 (for each different cross pattern). additional spokes of the D set.
The exception to this is with radial spoking, in which case 49. Do one of next five options depending on spoke
the D1 spoke will be the first “D” set spoke counterclockwise cross pattern being used (see figure 16.37):
of the marked hole. NOTE: After completing a choice below, it is
1X pattern: D1 spoke is the first “D” spoke clockwise optional to mark all “D” set spokes as in fig-
ure 16.38.
of the marked hole in the left flange.
4X PATTERN:
2X pattern: D1 spoke is the second “D” spoke clock- [ ] Select 4th D-set spoke clockwise of marked
wise of the marked hole in the left flange. hole in left flange to be D1.
3X pattern: D1 spoke is the third “D” spoke clockwise 3X PATTERN:
of the marked hole in the left flange. [ ] Select 3rd D-set spoke clockwise of only
4X pattern: D1 spoke is the fourth “D” spoke clockwise marked hole in left flange to be D1.
of the marked hole in the left flange. 2X PATTERN:
With the exception of radial spoking, the number of [ ] Select 2nd D-set spoke clockwise of only
“D” spokes counted clockwise from the marked hole to marked hole in left flange to be D1.
find D1 always equals the number of the cross pattern. 1X PATTERN:
[ ] Select 1st D-set spoke clockwise of only
After selecting D1, the rest of the spokes are considered
marked hole in left flange to be D1.
to be D2, D3, D4, etc. counterclockwise from D1. RADIAL PATTERN:
"D1" if radial "D1" for 1X [ ] Select 1st D-set spoke counterclockwise of
only marked hole in left flange to be D1.
50. [ ] Move spoke D1 until it points to hole D1.
Flex it slightly, in order to pass tip of spoke
D1 under spoke B1, then insert spoke D1
B1 "D1" for 2X
0 1 into hole D1, covering approximately half of
spoke-thread length with nipple.
2 At this point, all “A“ and “B” spokes are in place,
but for clarity are not all shown in this figure.
Also, D2, D3, etc. are in flange at this point,
but are also not shown in this figure.
3
D8 B8
B1
4 D1 Cross 2 D7
"D1" for 3X Cross 1
Cross 3 (under)
(B7)
16.39 In this 3X, 32-hole example, D1 crosses over B7
and B8, then under B1.
"D1" for 4X
51. [ ] Repeat previous step for spoke D2, D3, etc.
16.37 Depending on the cross pattern, different spokes
are selected to be marked D1. 52. [ ] Inspect that each “D” spoke crosses under a
“B” spoke just before reaching rim. Correct
any spokes that don’t cross under.
D2 D1
53. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR
TRUING procedure on page 16-41.
D3 D8
D4 D7
D5 D6
16.38 Working counterclockwise from D1, the remain-

ing spokes are considered to be D2, D3, D4, etc.
16 – 29
CAMPAGNOLO OVERVIEW the hole is not centered between the ends of the cylinder.
These cylindrical supports are always installed the same
Campagnolo makes a wide variety of wheel designs.
way, with the shorter end oriented away from the hub
Some wheels are relatively conventional in nature and some
center. The convex face of the support is always oriented
are unique. Due to compatibility issues, when servicing any
toward the rim.
Campagnolo wheel, use only Campagnolo replacement
The other type of support is a rectangular plate that
equipment for rims, spokes, nipples, and hubs. Even the
is curved (one face convex and the other face concave).
most conventional designs have some special features the
Between the spoke hole and one edge of the plate is an
mechanic must be aware of to avoid problems.
orientation mark. These plate-style supports are always
There are issues in several areas, including access to
installed the same way, with the orientation mark on the
spokes that have heads hidden inside the hub, ways in
edge away from the hub center. The convex face of the
which the spokes attach to the hub, ways in which the
support is always oriented toward the rim.
spokes attach to the rims, and lacing patterns.
Access to spokes in hub Engagement of spokes to rim
Campagnolo uses two nipple designs that are easily
All Campagnolo rear wheels must have the cassette
distinguished. One nipple type is a conventional nipple
removed to access the right-side spokes. Additionally, a
that protrudes from the inside face of the rim. Because
split retaining ring must be removed from the end of the
these are visible, these are called external nipples. The second
hub shell to allow the spoke heads in and out of their seats.
variety is a hex-shaped nut that is hidden inside the rim,
A seal pick is a good tool to remove the split ring.
and these are called internal nipples.
Front hubs and the left sides of rear hubs often have
The external nipples fit conventional spoke wrenches
spoke heads hidden inside the hub shell. In these cases,
but also have a hex-shaped head that can be accessed
there is a cover that must be separated from the hub shell
from the outer face of the rim (where the tire mounts).
to access the spokes. Use a thin tool such as a knife to
The hex head is 5.5mm and is fit by Campagnolo tool
carefully separate the cover from the end of the hub shell.
#UT-HU070. This size is interchangeable with a 7/32"
Additionally, the axle assembly must be removed from the
socket, but to access the nipple in some rim designs the
hub on several varieties. If it seems as though a spoke must
7/32" socket needs to be an extra-deep thinwall type.
be flexed or bent to be removed from or installed to the
The internal nipples are a 5mm hex nut and can be fit by
hub, then the hub is the type that requires axle removal.
a conventional 5mm nut driver. In the deep-section rims,
See Campagnolo COMPRESSION-RING-STYLE HUBS (page
the nut driver needs to be an extra-deep thinwall type.
12-21) for axle removal.
There are other important considerations with the
Engagement of spokes to hub internal nipples. There is a separate support piece that
Campagnolo uses three methods to attach the is installed between the nipple and the rim called a nipple
spokes to the hub. This includes the traditional elbowed support. The nipple support has three important aspects
spokes, straight-pull spokes that engage the hub directly, of orientation, and the nipple must be correctly oriented
and straight-pull spokes that have an additional support to the support, as well. The nipple support is a semi-
between the spoke head and the hub. rectangular plate with one long edge that is thicker than
For traditional elbowed spokes, there are no special the other and a concave recess in one face. The length
techniques or precautions to which the mechanic should of the support always must be in line with the rim (not
be alert. For simple straight-pull spokes, the only advisory crosswise to the rim). The concave face must always be
is that the spokes should be prevented from rotating while oriented toward the nipple. The fat edge of the support
turning the nipples. is always oriented to the same side of the wheel as the
Several models with straight-pull spokes require a sup- side of the hub from which the spoke originates. Finally,
port between the spoke head and the hub. These supports the end of the nipple that is rounded always contacts the
are made in two varieties, and each variety has important concave surface on the nipple support.
orientation requirements. Campagnolo uses inconsistent
terminology in their literature to refer to the spoke-head
Advisory notes
The various Campagnolo wheel procedures in this
supports, including plates, cable-heads, and pads. To avoid
chapter do not repeat the details in this section. Instead,
confusion, this section of the chapter uses head support as
each procedure starts with an warning to review all these
a generic term for these supports.
advisory notes in this overview of Campagnolo wheels.
One type of support is a half cylinder made of brass.
A hole for the spoke is drilled through the support, but
16 – 30
NOTE: Remove covers and cassette (rear wheel
only) to access spokes. On some hubs, it may
CAMPAGNOLO G3 FRONT
be necessary to also remove axle. The G3 designation is used by Campagnolo to signify
NOTE: At all times, prevent spokes from rotating wheels with sets of three spokes grouped closely together
while turning nipples. at the rim, with large spaces separating the groups. These
NOTE: Install head support to spoke so convex wheels have conventional elbowed spokes and external
face is toward rim end of spoke and short end nipples, but the rim holes and hub holes are both grouped
(or marked edge) of head support is oriented in sets of three. The lacing process is extremely simple.
away from the hub center. 1. [ ] Install spokes in center holes of each group
NOTE: Install nipple support and internal nipple to of three in first flange so heads are on out-
spoke so length of support is in line with rim, side faces of flanges.
concave face of support contacts convex end 2. [ ] Find spoke in center of any group of three,
of nipple, and fat edge of support is oriented insert spoke into center of any three-hole
toward side of wheel from which spoke origi- group in rim, then engage nipple halfway
nates. Failure to maintain these orientations onto threads.
throughout building and truing process will 3. [ ] Install remaining spokes into center holes of
cause catastrophic wheel failure! every other group of three in rim, engaging a
nipple halfway onto each spoke.
Lacing patterns 4. [ ] Turn wheel over, then install spokes in center
Campagnolo wheels are made in a variety of lacing holes of each group of three in second flange
patterns. Most of the front wheels are radially spoked so heads are on outside face of flange.
with uniform spoke distribution at the rim, but some 5. [ ] Starting with any spoke in second flange,
are a grouped-spoke variation of radial spoking with insert spoke into center hole of whichever
three spokes per group. There is one front wheel that is group of three holes in rim is straight out
a grouped-spoke design with four spokes per group and from head of spoke, then engage nipple half-
is a 1X design. Rear wheels always have radial spoking on way onto threads.
the left and 2X spoking on the right. The rear wheels may 6. [ ] Install spokes in holes in second flange
have uniform spoke distribution at the rim or may have that are one hole clockwise of already-
installed spokes, so spoke heads are on
spokes in groups of three.
outside of flange.
Front wheels with standard radial lacing are discussed 7. [ ] Starting with any spoke installed in step 6,
further in the CAMPAGNOLO RADIAL FRONT section on engage it to most-counterclockwise hole of
page 16-31 Front wheels with spokes grouped in threes group of three at rim that is clockwise from
are discussed further in the CAMPAGNOLO G3 FRONT sec- group of three that is straight out from this
tion on page 16-31. Front wheels with spokes grouped on spoke’s head, then engage nipple halfway
fours are covered in the CAMPAGNOLO G4 FRONT section onto threads.
on page 16-32. 8. [ ] Attach remaining spokes installed to hub in
Rear wheels with uniform spoke distribution are step 6 to rim in same fashion as in step 7.
covered in the CAMPAGNOLO STANDARD REAR section 9. [ ] Install spokes in remaining holes in second
flange so spoke heads are on outside of
on page 16-33. Rear wheels with spokes grouped in
flange. NOTE: This should be most counter-
threes are covered in the CAMPAGNOLO G3 REAR section clockwise hole in each group of three.
on page 16-34. 10. [ ] Starting with any spoke installed in step 9,
engage it to most-clockwise hole of group
CAMPAGNOLO RADIAL FRONT of three at rim that is counterclockwise from
group of three that is straight out from this
With the exception of the advisory notes that are spoke’s head, then engage nipple halfway
included in this Campagnolo overview, radial front wheels onto threads.
with uniform spoke distribution at the rim should be 11. [ ] Progress check: If steps are performed cor-
built with the CONVENTIONAL WHEELS procedure (page rectly to this point, spoke installed in step
16-21). NOTE: Read all the advisory notes in the 10 will complete a group of three spokes at
CAMPAGNOLO OVERVIEW section on pages 16-30 and rim that are parallel to each other, with cen-
16-31 before starting the procedure! ter spoke coming from opposite flange and
outer spokes both coming from near flange.
16 – 31
12. [ ] Attach remaining spokes installed to hub by those who may already feel very familiar with the con-
in step 9 to rim in same fashion as spoke ventional-wheel procedure in this chapter.
in step 10, confirming with each one that The following procedure is written on the assumption
condition described in step 11 is repeated. the hub is black. To facilitate marking the hub, white self-
13. [ ] Turn wheel over to original side.
adhesive label strips can be wrapped around each end of
14. [ ] Install spokes in holes in original flange
the hub core to facilitate marking the location of specific
that are one hole clockwise of already-
installed spokes, so spoke heads are on holes in each flange. Should Campagnolo make a G4 hub
outside of flange. in silver, taping the hub core could be skipped and instead
15. [ ] Starting with any spoke installed in step 14, a fine-point marker could be used directly on the hub.
engage it to most-counterclockwise hole of
group of three at rim that is clockwise from
Marking hub and rim
1. [ ] Wrap strips of self-adhesive label in circles
around both ends of hub core, then mark
spoke’s head, then engage nipple halfway
one R (for right), and mark other L (for left).
onto threads.
2. [ ] Adjacent to any hole in right flange, mark
16. [ ] Attach remaining spokes installed to hub in
label with letter A.
step 14 to rim in same fashion as in step 15.
3. [ ] Facing hub from right side, find hole in oppo-
17. [ ] Install spokes in remaining holes in original
site flange that is directly opposite A mark,
flange so spoke heads are on outside of
then mark next hole clockwise from this hole
flange. NOTE: This should be most-counter-
with letter B.
clockwise hole in each group of three.
4. [ ] While still facing hub from right side, find
18. [ ] Starting with any spoke installed in step 17,
3rd hole counterclockwise from B mark and
engage it to most-clockwise hole of group
mark this hole with letter D.
of three at rim that is counterclockwise from
5. [ ] While facing hub from left side, find 3rd hole
counterclockwise from A mark and mark this
spoke’s head, then engage nipple halfway
hole with letter C.
onto threads.
6. [ ] On rim sidewall just above valve hole, mark
19. [ ] Progress check: If steps are performed cor-
either side of rim with letter R. Then turn rim
rectly to this point, spoke installed in step
over and mark other side with letter L (at
18 will complete a group of three at rim that
valve hole again).
are parallel to each other, with center spoke
7. [ ] Facing R side of rim, mark 2nd hole counter-
coming from opposite flange and outer
clockwise from valve hole A1. Optionally,
spokes both coming from near flange.
mark every 4th hole around rim with A. How-
20. [ ] Attach remaining spokes installed to hub
ever, since rim has grouped holes, A holes
in step 17 to rim in same fashion as spoke
can always be identified by finding most
in step 18, confirming with each one that
counterclockwise hole in each set while fac-
condition described in step 19 is repeated.
ing R side.
8. [ ] Facing R side of rim, mark 1st hole clock-
wise from valve hole to be C1. As with A
marks, additional C marks may be made, but
CAMPAGNOLO G4 FRONT C holes are always next-to-most-clockwise
hole in each group when facing R side.
Campagnolo uses the G4 designation for front wheels
9. [ ] Facing L side of rim, mark 2nd hole counter-
with four spokes in closely spaced groups that are sepa- clockwise from valve hole to be B1. Option-
rated by wide intervals at the rim. G4-specific hub, spokes, ally, mark every 4th hole around rim with
and rim are required. G4 wheels use two lengths of spokes B. However, since rim has grouped holes,
that are different in length by approximately 20mm. The B holes can always be identified by find-
following procedure refers to these two lengths simply as ing most-counterclockwise hole in each set
short spokes and long spokes. while facing L side.
The general lacing procedure is similar to the earlier 10. [ ] Facing L side of rim, mark 1st hole clock-
procedure for conventional wheels in that spokes are wise from valve hole to be D1. As with B
divided into A, B, C, and D sets, and the hub and rim are marks, additional D marks may be made, but
D holes are always next-to-most-clockwise
marked with corresponding A, B, C, and D marks. However,
hole in each group while facing L side.
the procedures are less interchangeable than they appear,
so the following procedure should be followed closely even
16 – 32
Installing A spokes 26. [ ] Select next spoke clockwise in hub and install
into next-clockwise D hole in rim, then repeat
11. [ ] Install short spoke in A hole of hub so spoke
head is on outside of flange. until all spokes in hub are attached to rim.
12. [ ] Install additional short spokes in every other NOTE: Viewed from left side, each group of
hole in right flange so spoke heads are on four holes at rim should be filled in a left-side
outside of flange. spoke, right-side spoke, left-side spoke, right-
13. [ ] Orient hub and rim so right side of hub and side spoke pattern (checking in clockwise
right side of rim are both facing you. direction).
14. [ ] Insert spoke from A hole in hub into A1 hole 27. [ ] Clean marks from rim and remove labels
in rim, then attach nipple so threads are half- from hub shell.
way covered. 28. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR
15. [ ] Select next spoke clockwise in hub and TRUING procedure on page 16-41.
install into next clockwise A hole in rim,
then repeat until all spokes in hub are
attached to rim. NOTE: There should now be
CAMPAGNOLO STANDARD REAR
three empty holes in rim between each filled Campagnolo standard rear wheels have equal numbers
hole. Ignore valve hole. of left-side and right-side spokes and uniformly spaced
holes in the rim. Matching hub, spokes, and rim are
Installing B spokes required. Two lengths of spokes are used. Length differ-
16. [ ] Turn wheel over so L side faces you. ences differ by model, so the following procedure refers
17. [ ] Install short spoke in B hole in hub so head
to these two lengths simply as short spokes and long spokes.
is on outside face of flange.
NOTE: Carefully study all advisory notes (page 16-
18. [ ] Install additional short spokes in every other
31) or catastrophic wheel failure may result!
hole in left flange so spoke heads are on
These notes are also only source of details
outside of flange.
about technique variations that are needed for
19. [ ] Insert spoke from B hole in hub into B1 hole
this procedure!
in rim, then attach nipple so threads are half-
way covered. Marking rim
20. [ ] Select next spoke clockwise in hub and install 1. [ ] At valve hole, mark rim sidewall with letter
into next-clockwise B hole in rim, then repeat D (drive side). NOTE: If rim is asymmetric
until all spokes in hub are attached to rim. (spoke holes not centered in rim), D must be
NOTE: There should now be alternating filled on side further from spoke holes.
and empty holes in rim. Ignore valve hole. 2. [ ] On opposite side of rim, mark sidewall with
letters ND (for non-drive side).
Installing C spokes 3. [ ] Inspect rim closely to determine how holes
21. [ ] While still facing left side of wheel, install
are staggered to each side of rim. For pur-
spokes into all holes in back face of opposite
poses of this section, stagger is described as
(right) flange, then turn wheel over.
to D side or to ND side, corresponding with
22. [ ] Find spoke in C hole in hub, insert spoke
rim marks. NOTE: Stagger pattern may be
into C1 hole in rim, then attach nipple so
subtle, but it is critical to wheel integrity!
threads are halfway covered.
4. [ ] Facing ND side of rim, use fine-point perma-
23. [ ] Select next spoke clockwise in hub and install
nent marker to mark all holes staggered to ND
into next-clockwise C hole in rim, then repeat
side with letter A.
until all spokes in hub are attached to rim.
5. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark 1st hole coun-
NOTE: Viewed from right, each group of four
terclockwise from valve hole staggered to
holes at rim should have 1st, 3rd, and 4th holes
D side to be B1. Optionally, mark every 4th
filled (counting clockwise). Ignore valve hole.
hole around rim with B. Since all B holes are
Installing D spokes always fourth hole after previous B hole, this
24. [ ] While still facing right side of wheel, install may be found to be unnecessary.
spokes into all holes in back face of opposite 6. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark 2nd hole clock-
(left) flange, then turn wheel over. wise from B1 to be C1. As with B marks,
25. [ ] Find spoke in D hole in hub, insert spoke additional C marks may be made. Since all C
into D1 hole in rim, then attach nipple so holes are always fourth hole after previous C
threads are halfway covered. hole, this may be found to be unnecessary.
Installing A spokes
7. [ ] Install head supports (if any) onto long spokes.
16 – 33
8. [ ] Elbowed spokes only: Facing non-drive side 23. [ ] Insert C spoke into C hole in rim that is
of hub, install long spokes into all holes in immediately counterclockwise from B spoke
non-drive side of hub so spoke heads are on that C spoke is crossing under, attaching
outside of flange. nipple (or nipple support and nipple) to cover
Straight spokes only: Facing non-drive side spoke threads halfway. NOTE: Maintain cor-
of hub, install long spokes into all slots in rect nipple-support orientation at all times.
non-drive side of hub (monitor head-support 24. [ ] Insert all C spokes into C holes in rim, attach-
orientation closely), then install axle assem- ing nipples (or nipple supports and nipples) to
bly (if removed) and cover. cover spoke threads halfway. NOTE: Maintain
9. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so non- correct nipple-support orientation at all times.
drive sides both face up. 25. [ ] Inspect that all C spokes pass under a B
10. [ ] Insert spokes into A holes in rim, attaching spoke before reaching rim.
nipple (or nipple supports and nipples) to 26. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR
each spoke so threads are halfway covered. TRUING procedure on page 16-41.
NOTE: Every other hole in rim should be
filled at this point. Ignore valve hole.
Installing B spokes
CAMPAGNOLO G3 REAR
Campagnolo G3 rear wheels have two right-side
11. [ ] Turn wheel over so D side faces up.
spokes for each left-side spoke, and the holes in the rim
12. [ ] Install head supports to sufficient number of
are grouped so that three spokes are very close together,
spokes to complete B-spoke installation.
13. [ ] Observe that seating holes in face of hub shell and large spaces exist between each group. Matching hub,
consists of pairs, joined by single exit point for spokes, and rim are required. Two lengths of spokes are
both spokes (at outer perimeter of shell). used. Lengths differ by model, so the following procedure
14. [ ] With head supports correctly oriented, install refers to these two lengths simply as short spokes and long
heads of spokes into more-counterclockwise spokes.
seating hole of each hole pair. NOTE: If NOTE: Carefully study all advisory notes (page 16-
installed correctly, spokes should be radiat- 31) or catastrophic wheel failure may result!
ing out from hub in clockwise direction. These notes are also only source of details
15. [ ] Temporarily install retaining ring so spoke about technique variations that are needed for
heads are trapped in hub shell. this procedure!
16. [ ] Insert B spokes into each B hole in rim,
attaching nipples (or nipple supports and nip- Marking rim
ples) to cover spoke threads halfway. NOTE: 1. [ ] At valve hole, mark rim sidewall with letter
Maintain correct nipple-support orientation D (drive side). NOTE: If rim is asymmetric
at all times. (spoke holes not centered in rim), D must be
17. [ ] Inspect pattern of spokes in rim. Pattern on side further from spoke holes.
should be pairs of holes filled, with single hole 2. [ ] On opposite side of rim, mark sidewall with
separating each pair (ignoring valve hole). letters ND (for non-drive side).
3. [ ] Inspect rim closely to determine how holes
Installing C spokes are staggered to each side of rim. For pur-
18. [ ] Install head supports to all remaining spokes. poses of this section, stagger is described as
19. [ ] Remove retaining ring from hub shell. to D side or to ND side, corresponding with
20. [ ] Spokes in this set radiate counterclockwise. rim marks. NOTE: Stagger pattern may be
Pass head-end of new spoke behind any B subtle, but it is critical to wheel integrity!
spoke and into first seating hole clockwise 4. [ ] Facing ND side of rim, use fine-point perma-
from same B spoke. NOTE: Maintain correct nent marker to mark all holes staggered to ND
head-support orientation at all times! side with letter A.
21. [ ] With head supports correctly oriented, install 5. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark most-counter-
remaining spokes in same fashion as step 20. clockwise hole in first group counterclock-
NOTE: If installed correctly, spokes should wise from valve hole to be B1. Optionally,
be radiating out from hub in counterclock- mark every 3rd hole around rim with B. Since
wise direction. all B holes are most counterclockwise hole in
22. [ ] Install retaining ring (final installation). group, this may be found to be unnecessary.
16 – 34
6. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark most-clockwise 21. [ ] With head supports correctly oriented, install
hole in first group counterclockwise from remaining spokes in same fashion as step 20.
valve hole to be B1. Optionally, mark every NOTE: If installed correctly, spokes should
3rd hole around rim with B. Since all B holes be radiating out from hub in counterclock-
are most-clockwise hole in group, this may wise direction.
be found to be unnecessary. 22. [ ] Install retaining ring (final installation).
23. [ ] Insert C spoke into C hole in rim that is
Installing A spokes immediately counterclockwise from B spoke
7. [ ] Install head supports (if any) onto long spokes. in seating-hole pair that is immediately coun-
8. [ ] Elbowed spokes only: Facing non-drive side terclockwise, attaching nipple (or nipple sup-
of hub, install long spokes into all holes in port and nipple) to cover spoke threads half-
non-drive side of hub so spoke heads are on way. NOTE: Maintain correct nipple-support
outside of flange. orientation at all times.
Straight spokes only: Facing non-drive side 24. [ ] Insert all C spokes into C holes in rim, attach-
of hub, install long spokes into all slots in ing nipples (or nipple supports and nipples) to
non-drive side of hub (monitor head-support cover spoke threads halfway. NOTE: Maintain
orientation closely), then install axle assem- correct nipple-support orientation at all times.
bly (if removed) and cover. 25. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR
9. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so non- TRUING procedure on page 16-41.
drive sides both face up.
10. [ ] Insert spokes into A holes in rim, attaching
nipples (or nipple supports and nipples) to
each spoke so threads are halfway covered.
CANE CREEK WHEELS
Cane Creek wheels are characterized by nipples
NOTE: Center hole of each group should be
located at the hub end of the spokes. The front wheels
filled at this time.
are radially spoked, and the rear wheels are radial on the
Installing B spokes non-drive side and a 2X pattern on the drive side. There
11. [ ] Turn wheel over so D side faces up. are equal numbers of spokes on both sides. The spokes
12. [ ] Install head supports to sufficient number of are conventional straight-pull spokes, but the nipples are
spokes to complete B-spoke installation. unique to Cane Creek wheels. Cane Creek makes an inex-
13. [ ] Observe that seating holes in face of hub shell pensive open-end wrench for the nipples, but a standard
consists of pairs, joined by single exit point for
3/16" combination wrench, such as one made by Crafts-
both spokes (at outer perimeter of shell).
14. [ ] With head supports correctly oriented, install man or Snap-On, is superior.
heads of spokes into more-counterclockwise This pattern (nipples at hub and radial/2X on rear
seating hole of each hole pair. NOTE: If wheels) may be used by other manufacturers as well.
installed correctly, spokes should be radiat-
ing out from hub in clockwise direction.
Marking rim
1. [ ] Rear wheels only: At valve hole, mark rim
15. [ ] Temporarily install retaining ring so spoke
sidewall with letter D (drive side). NOTE:
heads are trapped in hub shell.
If rim is asymmetric (spoke holes not cen-
16. [ ] Insert B spokes into each B hole in rim,
tered in rim), D must be on side further from
attaching nipples (or nipple supports and nip-
spoke holes.
ples) to cover spoke threads halfway. NOTE:
Front wheels only: Use same marking as for
Maintain correct nipple-support orientation
rear wheel. From this point on, D will rep-
at all times.
resent right side of front wheel, as well as
17. [ ] Inspect pattern of spokes in rim. Pattern
drive side of rear wheel.
should be counterclockwise hole and center
2. [ ] Rear wheels only: On opposite side of rim,
hole in each group of three filled.
mark sidewall at valve hole with letters ND
Installing C spokes (for non-drive side).
18. [ ] Install head supports to all remaining spokes. Front wheels only: Use same marking as
19. [ ] Remove retaining ring from hub shell. for rear wheel. From this point on, ND will
20. [ ] Spokes in this set radiate counterclockwise. represent left side of front wheel, as well as
Install spoke into any seating hole and over non-drive side of rear wheel.
B spoke from seating-hole pair that is imme-
diately counterclockwise. NOTE: Maintain
correct head-support orientation at all times!
16 – 35
3. [ ] Inspect rim closely to determine how holes 13. [ ] Observe that outer edge of right flange has
are staggered to each side of rim. For pur- two sets of spoke holes, with one set facing
poses of this section, stagger is described as clockwise and the other set facing counter-
to D side or to ND side, corresponding with clockwise. NOTE: Flange holes facing coun-
rim marks. NOTE: Stagger pattern may be terclockwise are B holes.
subtle, but it is critical to wheel integrity! 14. [ ] Install spoke into B1 hole in rim and align it
4. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark on rim sidewall at so it is parallel to ND-side spoke marked A1.
first spoke hole clockwise of valve hole that NOTE: If properly aligned, B spoke should be
is staggered to ND side of rim to be A1. pointing close to one of B holes in drive-side
5. [ ] Rear wheels only: Facing ND side of rim, flange.
mark exact same hole as A1 again. Option- 15. [ ] Install B spoke into hole in hub, then thread
ally, mark every 2nd hole around rim with on nipple (flat-end first) until threads are
A. Since all A holes are always second hole covered halfway. NOTE: If installed cor-
after previous A hole, this may be found to rectly, spoke should be radiating out from
be unnecessary. hub in counterclockwise direction.
6. [ ] Rear wheels only: Facing D side of rim, mark 16. [ ] Insert B spokes into each B hole in rim and
1st hole clockwise from valve hole staggered hub in same fashion as B1 spoke, attaching
to D side to be B1. Optionally, mark every nipples to cover spoke threads halfway.
4th hole around rim with B. Since all B holes 17. [ ] Inspect pattern of spokes in rim. Pattern
are always fourth hole after previous B hole, should be pairs of holes filled, with single hole
this may be found to be unnecessary. separating each pair (ignoring valve hole).
7. [ ] Rear wheels only: Facing D side of rim,
mark 2nd hole clockwise from B1 to be C1. Installing C spokes
As with B marks, additional C marks may NOTE: Remaining holes in drive side of hub are all
be made.Since all C holes are always fourth C holes.
hole after previous C hole, this may be 18. [ ] Install spoke into C1 hole in rim and align
found to be unnecessary. spoke until it crosses B1 spoke and points to
second C hole in hub counterclockwise from
Installing A spokes B1 spoke.
NOTE: Rear-wheel cassette must be removed and 19. [ ] Install C spoke into hole in hub, then thread
covers on rear non-drive side, or both sides of on nipple (flat-end first) until threads are
front hub, must be removed. Covers are thin covered halfway. NOTE: If installed cor-
aluminum plates and must be carefully pried up rectly, spoke should be radiating out from
with thin-tipped tool or knife blade. hub in clockwise direction.
8. [ ] Rear wheels only: Install one of short spokes 20. [ ] Insert C spokes into each C hole in rim and
into any one of A holes in rim. hub in same fashion as C1 spoke, attaching
Front wheels only: Install any spoke into any nipples to cover spoke threads halfway.
one of A holes in rim. 21. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR
9. [ ] Install threaded end of spoke into any one TRUING procedure on page 16-41.
of holes in non-drive side of hub (left side of NOTE: Cover(s) remain uninstalled until completion
front hub), then thread on nipple (flat-end of truing.
first) until threads are covered halfway.
10. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so non-
drive sides (left sides) both face up. MAVIC UST-RIM WHEELS
11. [ ] Insert short spoke (any spoke if front wheel) Mavic UST (tubeless-tire system) rims can be built into
into next A hole clockwise in rim, then thread any conventional wheel, as long as the number of holes in
on nipple until threads are covered halfway. the rim matches the number of spoke holes in the hub.
Continue in same fashion until all A holes Unlike other rims, which have spokes attached at the rim
and entire non-drive side (left side) of hub are with nipples, with UST rims the nipples are not installed from
filled. NOTE: Every other hole in rim should
the tire side of the rim. Instead, the nipples are retained to
be filled at this point. Ignore valve hole.
NOTE: If building front wheel, repeat steps 1–4
the inner perimeter of the rim by means of hollow retain-
and steps 8–11 for D side (right side), then ing bolts. The bolts have a splined head. Mavic makes a tool
skip to step 21. (#M40630) for working with the retaining bolts.
If nipples shorter than 16mm are used, they will fall
Installing B spokes into the rim when detached from the spoke and become
12. [ ] Turn wheel over so D side faces up.
irretrievable.
16 – 36
The left-hand-threaded retaining bolts should be 4. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark on rim sidewall at
treated with Loctite 242, then secured to the rim (approxi- first spoke-hole pair clockwise of valve hole
mately 50in-lbs). There are two ways this could be done. C1–(A1) so that C1 is aligned with hole on
Nipples can be installed through all the retaining bolts, and near side of rim and (A1) is aligned with hole
on opposite face of rim. Optionally, mark
then the bolts can be attached to the rim. When lacing the
every other hole pair on this rim face with
wheel, the nipples are in place to receive the spokes. A bet-
C–(A). Since C–(A) pairs are always every
ter way to do this is to install a bolt and nipple onto each other pair on D side, this may be found to be
spoke as it is about to be attached to the rim, then secure unnecessary. NOTE: Brackets are used to sig-
the retaining bolt to the fitting on the rim. The advantage nify hole on opposite face of rim.
of this method is that it is easier to manipulate the nipple 5. [ ] Facing ND side of rim, mark same holes that
while starting to thread it onto the spoke. were marked in step 4 as A1–(C1). Option-
ally, mark every other hole pair on this rim
face with A–(C). Since A–(C) pairs are
SHIMANO 16-SPOKE WHEELS always every other pair on ND side, this may
Shimano 16-spoke wheels are characterized by pairs be found to be unnecessary. NOTE: Order of
of spokes grouped at the rim and by the fact that the A and C marks and which mark is bracketed
spokes from each side of the hub attach to the face of is reversed from previous step!
the rim on the opposite side of the wheel. The elbowed 6. [ ] Facing ND side of rim, mark on rim sidewall
spokes attach to the holes in the face of the rim by means at first spoke-hole pair clockwise of valve
hole D1–(B1) so that D1 is aligned with hole
of unique head supports. The spokes attach to the hub
on near side of rim, and (B1) is aligned with
by means of oversized nipples. Shimano makes a special hole on opposite face of rim. Optionally, mark
wrench for the nipples that is needed for the truing pro- every other hole pair on this rim face with
cess. During the assembly process a #2 Phillips screw- D–(B). Since D–(B) pairs are always every
driver is the best tool for turning nipples. other pair on ND side, this may be found to be
The original hub, spokes, and rim are unique and can unnecessary. NOTE: Brackets are used to sig-
only be replaced with original equipment. nify hole on opposite face of rim.
NOTE: Although Shimano spokes are very similar 7. [ ] Facing D side of rim, mark same holes that
to other elbowed spokes, non-Shimano spokes were marked in step 6 as B1–(D1). Option-
should only be used for temporary repair of ally, mark every other hole pair on this rim
broken spokes! The close match between the face with B–(D). Since B–(D) pairs are always
elbow of the Shimano spoke and the hole in every other pair on D side, this may be found
the head support is necessary to prevent pre- to be unnecessary. NOTE: Order of B and D
mature spoke breakage. marks and which mark is bracketed is reversed
from previous step!
Marking rim and hub NOTE: Cassette must be removed from rear wheel
1. [ ] Rear wheels only: At valve hole, mark rim to perform remaining steps.
sidewall with letter D (drive side). 8. [ ] From adhesive edge of a Post-It note or
Front wheels only: Use same marking as for similar product, cut four pieces approxi-
rear wheel. From this point on, D will rep- mately 1/4" x 1/4".
resent right side of front wheel, as well as 9. [ ] Observe that each side of hub has four
drive side of rear wheel. “arms.” Observe that each arm has a nipple
2. [ ] Rear wheels only: On opposite side of rim, hole at its outer end and another nipple hole
mark sidewall at valve hole with letters ND at its base. Clean outer faces of all eight arms
(for non-drive side). with alcohol or other low-residue solvent.
Front wheels only: Use same marking as 10. [ ] On any arm on drive side of hub (either side,
for rear wheel. From this point on, ND will if front hub), place sticker on face of arm
represent left side of front wheel, as well as at outer hole and mark with letter A. NOTE:
non-drive side of rear wheel. Outer holes in other arms on this side of hub
3. [ ] Observe that rim has holes in each face, should not be marked but are also A holes.
instead of at inner perimeter. Observe that 11. [ ] Find arm 180º from A arm (on same side of
holes are in groups of two, with near-side hub), place sticker at base of arm (adjacent
hole always counterclockwise from far-side to inner hole), and mark with letter D. NOTE:
hole (same from both sides of rim). Inner holes in other arms on this side of hub
should not be marked but are also D holes.
16 – 37
12. [ ] Find arm on other side of hub that is directly
opposite D arm, place sticker on face of arm
Installing B spokes
20. [ ] Install one spoke into access hole in outer
at outer hole, and mark with letter B. NOTE: wall of rim so spoke comes out through B1
Outer holes in other arms on this side of hub hole, then seat head support in B1 hole so
should not be marked but are also B holes. support face is flush with rim face.
13. [ ] Find arm 180º from B arm (on same side 21. [ ] Install threaded end of spoke into B hole in
of hub), place sticker at base of arm, and hub, then thread on nipple (square-end first)
mark with letter C. NOTE: Inner holes in until threads are covered halfway.
other arms on this side of hub should not be 22. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so non-
marked but are also C holes. drive sides (left sides) both face up.
Preparing spokes 23. [ ] Insert spoke into next B hole clockwise in
14. [ ] If not already installed, install spoke-head rim, into outer hole in next clockwise arm,
supports (large-face first) onto spokes and and then thread on nipple until threads are
over elbows until support is in contact with covered halfway. Continue in same fashion
spoke head. NOTE: It will be necessary to until all B spokes are installed. NOTE: Every
rotate slot in support one way to go over other hole in D side of rim and all outer holes
flat section of spoke and 90º away from in non-drive-side hub arms (left side) should
that position to work support over elbow. be filled at this point.
When done, support must be rotated to 45º
from either position or catastrophic wheel
Seating A and B spokes
24. [ ] Use screwdriver to tighten all A and B nip-
failure can result! ples just until threads are covered.
15. [ ] If spoke-head supports are pre-installed, 25. [ ] Check that head supports are all properly
check that supports contact spoke heads, seated in rim holes, reseat if not, then press
and check that slot in hole in support is posi- firmly in on each spoke where it leaves head
tioned 45º from axis of spoke. NOTE: Cata- support to eliminate tendency of spoke to arc.
strophic wheel failure can result when slots 26. [ ] Tighten all A nipples one whole turn. Tighten
are improperly aligned! all B nipples one whole turn, then check all
Installing A spokes head supports again.
In the outer wall of the rim (wall where rim strip will 27. [ ] Perform step 26 repeatedly just until no
nipples are slack in hub.
be located), there are access holes for getting spokes into
the holes in the rim sidewall. Installing C spokes
16. [ ] Install one spoke into access hole in outer 28. [ ] Install one spoke into access hole in outer
wall of rim so spoke comes out through A1 wall of rim so spoke comes out through C1
hole, then seat head support in A1 hole so hole, then seat head support in C1 hole so
support face is flush with rim face. NOTE: support face is flush with rim face.
If head support is awkward to pull through 29. [ ] With C spoke passing over B spoke on way
hole in outer wall of rim, try with spoke to C hole, install threaded end of spoke into
turned so head of spoke faces out (flip over C hole in hub, then thread on nipple (square-
again to seat support into A hole). end first) until threads are covered halfway.
17. [ ] Install threaded end of spoke into A hole in 30. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so non-
hub, then thread on nipple (square-end first) drive sides (left sides) both face up.
until threads are covered halfway. 31. [ ] Insert spoke into next C hole clockwise in rim
18. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so drive and next hole clockwise in hub, then thread
sides (right sides) both face up. on nipple until threads are covered halfway.
19. [ ] Insert spoke into next A hole clockwise in Continue in same fashion until all C spokes
rim, into outer hole in next clockwise arm are installed. NOTE: Every hole in D side of
on drive side (right side) of hub, and then rim and all holes in non-drive-side hub arms
thread on nipple until threads are covered (left side) should be filled at this point.
halfway. Continue in same fashion until all
A spokes are installed. NOTE: Every other Installing D spokes
hole in ND side of rim and all outer holes in 32. [ ] Install one spoke into access hole in outer
drive-side hub arms (right side) should be wall of rim so spoke comes out through D1
filled at this point. hole, then seat head support in D1 hole so
support face is flush with rim face.
16 – 38
33. [ ] With D spoke passing over A spoke on way These wheels are built in a similar fashion to con-
to D hole, install threaded end of spoke into ventional wheels (procedure on page 16-21) except that
D hole in hub, then thread on nipple (square- the hub-marking procedure is different, and the building
end first) until threads are covered halfway. sequence should be A, C, B, D instead of A, B, C, D. A
34. [ ] Place hub and rim on work surface so drive
full-length procedure is included here.
sides (right sides) both face up.
35. [ ] Insert spoke into next D hole clockwise in Alternate hub measurements
rim, and next hole clockwise in hub, then The two measurements that must be done differently
thread on nipple until threads are covered are the flange diameter and the flange inset (since there are
halfway. Continue in same fashion until all no flanges). Because the alternate diameter measurements
D holes and entire non-drive side (left side)
are different on each side of the hub, spoke length is calcu-
of hub are filled. NOTE: Every hole in ND
side of rim and drive side (right side) of hub
lated from scratch for each side (including front wheels).
should be filled at this point. The diameter measurements are named left-barrel
diameter (LBD) and right-barrel diameter (RBD).
Seating C and D spokes 1. [ ] Measure diameter of disc side of hub at
36. [ ] Use screwdriver to tighten all C and D nip- point diagonal slots are located and record
ples just until threads are covered. measurement here: __________LBD
37. [ ] Check that head supports are all properly NOTE: LBD value is used for HFD when cal-
seated in rim holes, reseat if not, then press culating spoke length for left side of hub.
firmly in on each spoke where it leaves head 2. [ ] Measure diameter of non-disc side of hub at
support to eliminate tendency of spoke to arc. point diagonal slots are located and record
38. [ ] Tighten all C nipples one whole turn. Tighten measurement here: __________RBD
all D nipples one whole turn, then check all NOTE: RBD value is used for HFD when cal-
head supports again. culating spoke length for right side of hub.
39. [ ] Perform step 38 repeatedly just until no In steps #3 and #4, similar measurements to the
nipples are slack in hub. flange-inset measurements on a conventional flanged
hub are taken. Even though these hubs have no flanges,
the same labels are used in these steps since the informa-
tion is used in exactly the same fashion in a spoke-length
SHIMANO SLOTTED-HUB DISC- calculation. As a reminder, LFI stands for left-flange inset
and RFI stands for right-flange inset.
BRAKE WHEELS 3. [ ] Install hub in truing stand and measure dis-
Shimano makes several models of front and rear tance from left-side stand arm to near edge
disc-brake hubs that have no flanges. Instead, there are of left-side diagonal slots and record mea-
diagonal slots in the circumference of the hub shell where surement here: __________LFI
each flange would normally be. The diagonal slots have a 4. [ ] Measure distance from right-side stand arm
wide spot at the center of each slot that fits the head of a to near edge of right-side diagonal slots and
conventional elbowed spoke. Once the spoke is engaged, record measurement here: __________RFI
it is trapped when it is moved to the narrower end of 5. [ ] Although there are no flanges on these
hubs, a value for flange thickness (FT) is still
the slot. One end of each slot is for clockwise-radiating
required. Enter “10” in blank: __________FT
spokes, and the other end of each slot is for counterclock- 6. [ ] Complete HUB MEASUREMENTS steps 1–8
wise-radiating spokes. (page 16-14) using values determined in
When building wheels with these hubs, use any brand steps 1–6 above for HFD, LFI, RFI, and FT
of elbowed spokes that are 2mm diameter at the head when calculating spoke length.
ends. Any conventionally drilled rim with a spoke-hole
count that matches the spoke-hole count of the hub is
Hub marking
The following procedure should be used for marking
acceptable. The only cross pattern that works with these
the hub in preparation for building a wheel.
hubs is 3X.
1. [ ] Facing non-disc side of hub, mark near end
To determine spoke length for wheels built with these of any diagonal spoke slot with letter A.
hubs, several measurements must be taken in a different 2. [ ] Still facing non-disc side of hub, find diago-
fashion. This section contains the alternate method for nal spoke slot directly opposite one just
measuring these hubs so that spoke length can be deter- marked with A, then mark near end of slot
mined using any system listed in this book. with letter B.
16 – 39
3. [ ] Still facing non-disc side of hub, find 3rd 14. [ ] Still facing disc side of wheel, route spoke
diagonal spoke slot counterclockwise from behind A1 spoke, insert spoke into C1 hole,
slot marked with A, then mark far end of then attach nipple to cover threads halfway.
slot with letter B. 15. [ ] Still facing disc side of wheel, install remain-
4. [ ] Still facing non-disc side of hub, find 3rd ing right-side spokes into near ends of diago-
diagonal spoke slot counterclockwise from nal slots in non-disc side of wheel.
slot marked with B, then mark far end of 16. [ ] Find next-clockwise C spoke, route it behind
slot with letter D. next A spoke clockwise from A1, insert
spoke into 4th hole clockwise from C1, then
Rim marking attach nipple to cover threads halfway. Con-
5. [ ] Use LACING WHEELS procedure steps 6–16 tinue working clockwise around hub, install-
(starting on page 16-22) to mark rim, then ing remaining C spokes in same fashion.
duplicate markings for A1, B1, C1, and D1 17. [ ] Inspect that each “C” spoke crosses under
on opposite face of rim from each original an “A” spoke just before reaching rim. Cor-
mark. NOTE: Objective is to be able to find rect any spokes that don’t cross under.
each hole readily from either side of wheel. 18. [ ] Inspect that every other hole in rim is filled
Preparing the spokes and every other hole is empty (ignore valve
6. [ ] Divide total number of spokes by 4 to hole). NOTE: If this inspection is failed and
determine number of spokes to be in each reason is not immediately obvious, simplest
set of four. Spokes per set is: __________. solution may be to remove all C spokes,
7. [ ] Put two sets of spokes on bench to right inspect A-spoke installation carefully, then
of rim and two sets to left of rim. NOTE: If repeat C-spoke installation.
building wheel with shorter spokes on right
side, be sure shorter spokes are on bench on
Lacing the “B” set
19. [ ] Check that disc side of hub is facing up.
right side of wheel! 20. [ ] Insert spoke head of one remaining spoke
8. [ ] Arrange all spokes in each set so that thread into center of slot marked with B, then pull
ends are together. Stand each set up on spoke in clockwise direction so elbow moves
thread ends and make sure all spokes are to B end of slot. NOTE: Only remaining
same length. Measure one spoke from each spokes should be left-side spokes.
set to make sure it is correct length. 21. [ ] Insert second spoke in similar fashion into far
9. [ ] Prep all threads with spoke-prep compound end of next slot clockwise. Continue working
or oil. clockwise, filling far end of every slot in disc
Lacing the “A” set side of hub.
10. [ ] Insert spoke head of one spoke from right- 22. [ ] With disc side of rim and hub facing up,
side spoke set into center of slot marked with attach spoke in B slot to B1 hole in rim, cov-
A, then pull spoke in counterclockwise direc- ering approximately half of thread length with
tion so elbow moves to A end of slot. nipple. Continue clockwise around hub and
11. [ ] Insert second spoke from same right-side set rim, inserting each next-clockwise spoke to
in similar fashion into near end of next slot fourth hole clockwise in rim from last spoke
clockwise. Continue working clockwise, filling and threading each nipple on halfway.
near ends of every slot in non-disc side of hub. 23. With disc side of rim facing up, rotate rim to
12. [ ] With right side of rim and non-disc end of look at valve hole in inner face of rim and
hub facing up, attach spoke in A slot to A1 inspect for following:
hole in rim, covering approximately half of [ ] A1 and B1 spokes should fill first two holes
thread length with nipple. Continue clock- counterclockwise from valve hole.
wise around hub and rim, inserting each [ ] Starting with C1 spoke and working coun-
next-clockwise spoke to fourth hole clock- terclockwise, pattern of three filled holes in
wise in rim from last spoke and threading rim followed by one empty hole should con-
each nipple on halfway. tinue around rim with last filled set ending
with B1 then A1.
Lacing the “C” set 24. [ ] If either inspection in step 23 is failed and
13. [ ] With disc side of wheel facing up, engage cause is not immediately obvious, remove all
head end of first C spoke (from right-side B spokes and restart from step 19.
spoke set) into slot marked C, then pull
spoke into near end of slot.
16 – 40
Lacing the “D“ set 2. [ ] Wrap tape securely around each pair of
spokes where they cross each other the last
25. [ ] With disc side of wheel facing up, engage
head end of first D spoke into slot marked time before reaching rim.
D, then pull spoke into near end of slot. 3. [ ] Unthread all nipples on spokes coming from
26. [ ] Still facing disc side of wheel, route spoke right-side flange.
behind B1 spoke, insert spoke into D1 hole,
then attach nipple to cover threads halfway.
27. [ ] Still facing disc side of wheel, install remain-
ing spokes into near ends of diagonal slots
in disc side of wheel.
28. [ ] Find next-clockwise D spoke, route it behind
next B spoke clockwise from B1, insert
spoke into 4th hole clockwise from D1, then
attach nipple to cover threads halfway. Con-
tinue working clockwise around hub, install-
ing remaining D spokes in same fashion. 16.41 Transfer spokes to new rim.
29. [ ] Inspect that each “D” spoke crosses under a 4. [ ] Re-attach all right-side spokes to new rim in
“B” spoke just before reaching rim. Correct holes directly adjacent to holes that spokes
any spokes that don’t cross under. have been removed from.
30. [ ] Wheel is ready for PREPARING WHEEL FOR 5. [ ] Turn wheel over so left side is up and new
TRUING procedure on page 16-41. rim is on bottom.
6. [ ] Unthread all nipples on spokes coming from
left-side flange.
7. [ ] Re-attach all left-side spokes to new rim in
REPLACING RIM AND holes directly adjacent to holes that spokes
have been removed from.
REUSING OLD SPOKES 8. [ ] Remove tape from spoke crosses and
remove tape holding rims together.
Reusing old spokes is strongly recommended against.
Spoke fatigue is impossible to detect by inspection. Build-
ing a new rim onto an existing wheel, only to have to
rebuild the wheel because of fatigued spokes, is a terrible
waste of time and money; furthermore, two rims of the PREPARING WHEEL
same size do not necessarily take the same-size spokes,
so unless the replacement rim is identical, the old spokes
FOR TRUING
1. [ ] Put wheel securely in truing stand so that right
may not work. end of axle is on your right and secure fully.
Only if the customer has smashed a virtually new rim 2. Do one of next two options depending on
and an identical replacement is available, would it make whether wheel is front wheel, rear wheel
sense to reuse the old spokes. with two different spoke lengths, or rear
multi-sprocket wheel with one spoke length.
[ ] If building a front wheel or a rear wheel with
two spoke lengths: Tighten all nipples until
1mm of thread (or two whole threads) is
exposed above nipple.
[ ] If building a multi-cog rear wheel with one
spoke length: Tighten all nipples until 2mm
of thread (or 4 whole threads) is exposed
above nipple.
NOTE: If building a front wheel, skip to step 4.
16.40 Tape new rim on top of right side of old rim in
this fashion, then tape the outermost spoke crosses on
the upper set of spokes together.
1. [ ] Lay replacement rim on top of damaged rim
(right-side up) with valve holes lined up and
fix rims together with tape.
16 – 41
Establishing initial dish FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: 35–38mm

OUTSIDE-LOCKNUT WIDTH: 131.1–136.0mm
Over-locknut width
[ ] One spoke length used: Tighten all right-side
nipples two full turns.
[ ] 1mm-shorter spokes used on right side:
Skip to step 4.
FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: 35–38mm
nipples three full turns.
16.42 Measure over-locknut width in this fashion. Tighten all right-side nipples one full turns.
FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: 35–38mm
nipples four full turns.
Freewheel Tighten all right-side nipples two full turns.
space [ ] 2mm-shorter spokes used on right side: Skip
Truing-stand arms to step 4.
16.43 Measure freewheel space in this fashion. FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: 29–34mm
nipples three full turns.
Tighten all right-side nipples two full turns.
Cassette [ ] 2mm-shorter spokes used on right side: Skip
space to step 4.
Truing-stand arms FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: 29–34mm
16.44 Measure cassette space in this fashion. [ ] One spoke length used: Tighten all right-side
The following recommended dish corrections are nipples three full turns.
just ballpark estimates of what it will take to get the dish [ ] 1mm-shorter spokes used on right side:
adjustment close to ideal. Further dish correction will be Tighten all right-side nipples one full turns.
likely for many wheels. Establish working tension
3. Do one of the following options depending on 4. Jiggle rim at bottom vigorously side to side and
cassette or freewheel space, over-locknut observe amount nipples move up and down
width, and amount of spoke-length differential in rim, then:
used between left and right side of rear wheel. [ ] Nipples move up and down >2mm: Tighten
FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: >38mm all nipples 3 full turns and check again.
OUTSIDE-LOCKNUT WIDTH: 131.1–136.0mm [ ] Nipples move up and down 1–2mm: Tighten
[ ] One spoke length used: Tighten all right-side all nipples 2 full turns and check again.
nipples four full turns. [ ] Nipples move up and down <1mm: Tighten
[ ] 1mm-shorter spokes used on right side: all nipples 1 whole turn and check again.
Tighten all right-side nipples two full turns. [ ] Nipples do not move up and down: Skip to
[ ] 2mm-shorter spokes used on right side: Skip step 5.
to step 4. 5. [ ] Pluck numerous spokes on right side of
FREEWHEEL/CASSETTE SPACE: >38mm wheel and feel and hear for resonation in
OUTSIDE-LOCKNUT WIDTH: 127.6–131.0mm rim. If no resonation is felt or heard, tighten
[ ] One spoke length used: Tighten all right-side all nipples 1⁄2 turn.
nipples five full turns.
[ ] 1mm-shorter spokes used on right side: Pre-set spoke bends
Tighten all right-side nipples three full turns. (skip to step 11 if reusing old spokes):
[ ] 2mm-shorter spokes used on right side: As can be observed, spokes do not naturally take a
Tighten all right-side nipples one full turn. straight line from the hub flange to the rim. They tend
[ ] 3mm-shorter spokes used on right side: Skip
to arc on their way out of the flange, although they will
to step 4.
16 – 42
straighten up when tensioned. Once the tension is gone,
they will go back to being bowed. When a wheel is in use,
the spokes are constantly getting tighter and looser. If they
are also bowing and straightening when riding, then they
will fatigue much faster. The following group of steps is
designed to get the spokes to follow a straight line from
the hub to the nipple, even when the spokes are relaxed,
so that as they loosen and tighten under use they will not
be bowing and straightening as well. See figure 16.45 and "A" spoke "C" spoke
figure 16.46 for technique.
Press in here
Squeeze
together
"A" spoke "C" spoke
16.46 Squeeze each A–C pair with the same number,

and then each B–D pair with the same number, firmly
together just above the nipples to preset the bend where
the spokes come out of the nipples.
8. [ ] On right side of wheel, grab spoke pair
A1 and C1 close to rim and squeeze pair
together firmly. Repeat for pairs A2 and C2,
A3 and C3, etc.
9. [ ] On left side of wheel, grab spoke pair
B1 and D1 close to rim and squeeze pair
together firmly. Repeat for pairs B2 and D2,
16.45 Just inside of the point where they cross each B3 and D3, etc.
other, lever each A–C pair with the same number so 10. [ ] Repeat steps 4 and 5 as necessary.
that the A spoke is moved out and the C spoke is moved
in to preset the spoke bends where the spokes come out
of the flange.
6. [ ] On right side of wheel, insert broad, flat tool
(such as a cone wrench or large combina-
tion wrench) between cross of spokes A1
and C1 and the right hub flange, then apply
leverage in direction that forces A1 away
from central plane of wheel and C1 toward
central plane of wheel. Repeat for A2 and
C2 pair, A3 and C3 pair, etc.
7. [ ] On left side of wheel, insert broad, flat tool
(such as cone wrench or large combina-
tion wrench) between cross of spokes B1
and D1 and the left hub flange, then apply
leverage in direction that forces B1 away
from central plane of wheel and D1 toward
central plane of wheel. Repeat for B2 and
D2 pair, B3 and D3 pair, etc.
16 – 43
17 – WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR
D
E
B D
E
1/4 turn
each
B
A
1/2 turn
Rub on left centered

on left-side spoke
Dish tool
B
TRUING WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES 17 – 6
AVOIDING COMMON PITFALLS 17 – 6
PREPARATIONS AND INSPECTIONS 17 – 8
DT TENSION METER 17 – 8
PARK TM-1 TENSION METER 17 – 8
WHEELSMITH TENSION METER 17 – 8
USING CONVERSION TABLES 17 – 10
ESTABLISHING STARTING TENSION 17 – 11
CORRECTING LATERAL ERRORS 17 – 12
CORRECTING RADIAL ERRORS 17 – 13
CORRECTING DISH ERRORS 17 – 16
SETTING FINAL TENSION 17 – 18
TENSION BALANCING SPOKES 17 – 20
STABILIZING THE TRUE 17 – 24
PRECISION TENSION BALANCING 17 – 26
TRUING WHEELS WITH BROKEN SPOKES OR DAMAGED NIPPLES 17 – 27
TRUING WHEELS WITH DAMAGED RIMS 17 – 29
FIXING DINGS IN THE OUTER PERIMETER OF THE RIM 17 – 29
FIXING RADIAL BENDS IN THE BODY OF THE RIM 17 – 29
FIXING LATERAL BENDS IN THE RIM 17 – 30
WHEEL TROUBLESHOOTING 17 – 32
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Radial dip: This is a radial error that deviates closer
to the center of the wheel than the rest of the rim.
This chapter is about repairing wheels. It covers tru-
Radial error: This is a deviation in the round of the
ing the wheels (adjusting spokes so that the rim is more
rim. Radial errors are sometimes called “round errors.”
round, centered, and wobbles less), replacing broken spokes
Reading unit: A number that is read from a spoke-
and damaged nipples, and fixing minor rim damage. The
tension meter. The reading unit must be looked up on
chapter WHEEL BUILDING AND RIM REPLACEMENT is about
a chart specific to the spoke-tension tool being used to
replacing rims and building new wheels. That chapter does
convert to kgf.
not include anything about truing wheels but refers to this
Rim: The metal hoop at the outer end of the spokes
chapter for that process.
to which the rubber tire attaches. The word “rim” is
sometimes misused to apply to the wheel, including the
spokes and hub.
GENERAL INFORMATION Rim beads: The two edges of the rim at the rim’s
outer perimeter.
Rim sidewall: The face of the rim that contacts the
TERMINOLOGY brake pads.
Cross pattern: The pattern created by two sets of Spokes: The wires that go between the hub and
spokes in a hub flange that radiate in opposite directions the rim.
on their way to the rim. If one clockwise radiating spoke Spoke elbow: The end of the spoke that makes a
crosses three counterclockwise radiating spokes from the 90° bend where the spoke goes through the hole in the
same hub flange, then the wheel is said to have a “three- hub flange.
cross pattern.” Spoke head: The flattened disc at the end of the
Dish: The centering of the rim to the hub locknuts. spoke elbow that keeps the spoke from pulling through
Because the flanges of a rear hub may not be equidistant the holes in the hub flange.
from the locknuts, a rim centered to the locknuts is not Spoke hole: The hole in the rim where the nipple
necessarily centered to the hub flanges. Viewed from comes out, although it would be better called the “nipple
the wheel’s edge, this makes the wheel appear like a dish hole.” With regard to the hub, the hole in the hub flange
viewed from its edge. that the spoke goes through is also called the spoke hole.
Eyelet: A separate metal reinforcement that goes in
the spoke nipple hole in the rim.
Hub: The mechanism at the center of the wheel that
PREREQUISITES
an axle rotates inside of and to which the spokes attach. Wheel removal and installation
Hub flange: The disc on either end of the hub to Before repairing a wheel, the wheel must be removed
which the spokes attach. from the bike. See the WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
Interlace: If a spoke switches from crossing over AND INSTALLATION chapter (page 18-6) if unsure about
spokes to crossing under the last spoke it crosses on the wheel removal and installation.
way to the rim, the switch from crossing over to crossing
under is called an interlace.
Tire removal and installation
Before repairing a wheel, the tire usually must be
Kgf: Stands for kilograms of force. This is a unit used
removed from the wheel. See the TIRES AND TUBES chapter
to measure the tension of a spoke.
(page 19-3) if unsure about tire removal and installation.
Nipple: The elongated nut that threads onto the
threaded end of the spoke and attaches the spoke to Freewheel removal and installation
the rim. To replace a broken spoke, it is necessary to remove the
Radial bump: This is a radial error that deviates freewheel or freehub cogs. See the FREEHUB MECHANISMS
further from the center of the wheel than the rest of AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS chapter for freewheel removal
the rim. (page 25-9) and freehub-cog removal (page 25-15).
17 – 1
Hub adjustment Cracks in the rim.

Before truing a wheel, the hub must be adjusted to Severe rim-sidewall wear.
have no free play when out of the bike. See the LOOSE- Maintenance cycles
BALL HUBS chapter (page 12-12). There is not much routine maintenance to wheels
other than repairing them when one of the above symp-
INDICATIONS toms is experienced, but two things are very important.
First, the key to wheel longevity is proper spoke tension.
Symptoms indicating need of wheel repair Proper tension promotes longer spoke life, long-lasting
There are several reasons to repair wheels. true, and longer rim life. Fortunately, another thing proper
Truing is needed when the side-to-side wobble (lateral spoke tension promotes is stable spoke tension. Once ten-
error) of the rim makes it difficult to adjust the brakes (to sion is set right, it probably will not need regular attention.
eliminate brake-pad rub) without compromising the brake Unfortunately, only a minority of bicycle manufacturers
adjustment. Truing might also be needed because the rim and bike shops pay attention to this critical factor. When-
is out of round (radial error), causing difficulty with get- ever assembling a bike or truing used wheels, check the
ting the brake pads set at one height that is not too high at spoke tension first.
one point and too low at another point. Another reason The second form of wheel maintenance is nipple
wheel truing might be needed is that the rim needs to be lubrication. The nipples are the little elongated nuts at
centered to the hub (dished). The symptoms that would lead the rim end of each spoke. These nipples are tightened
to suspicion that the wheel needs dishing are that the bike or loosened, which is how the wheel is trued. In many
has a tendency to pull to one side (particularly when riding climates, the nipples have a tendency to corrode solid
with no hands) or that it is difficult to get the rim properly even before the wheel needs to be trued the first time. The
centered in the frame or fork. The symptoms indicating shop should put a drop of light oil that can penetrate at
that the rim needs dishing can be caused by many things the top of each nipple so that it will soak down into the
other than rim dish, but dish is one of the easiest causes threads whenever general maintenance is done. The only
to check for and correct, so it should be done first. See exceptions to this are when it is known that the threads
the troubleshooting section of this chapter (page 17-32) have been treated with a compound such as Wheelsmith
for other possible solutions when dishing a rim does not Spoke Prep (a “lifetime” corrosion preventative) or when
eliminate the symptom(s). you know that the climate is so dry that rust and corrosion
Replacing a broken spoke needs to be done whenever are not a problem.
a spoke breaks. More importantly, a broken spoke indicates
other problems. If spokes continue to break, it indicates
that the life of the spokes is used up, and the wheel should TOOL CHOICES
be rebuilt or replaced. Table 17-1 (page 17-3) covers all tools for the job.
Repairing minor rim damage is advisable when truing The preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred
is unsuccessful in eliminating the lateral errors while main- because of a balance of ease of use, quality, versatility,
taining proper spoke tension. There are severe limitations and economy. When more than one tool for one function
to what can be done about repairing damaged rims, so very is in bold, it means that several tools are required for dif-
often the ultimate repair is rim or wheel replacement. ferent configurations of parts or that two or more tools
are equally suitable for the job.
Symptoms indicating need of wheel
replacement or rebuilding
Either during the course of a wheel repair or even TIME AND DIFFICULTY
before the repair is attempted, symptoms might be experi- Truing a wheel is a 15–35 minute job of moderate-to-
enced that indicate it would be better to replace or rebuild high difficulty. Replacing broken spokes, then truing the
the wheel. These symptoms are: wheel, is a high-difficulty job that could take from 20–35
Multiple broken spokes, either all at once or one at minutes. Repairing a damaged rim then truing the wheel
a time over the last few hundred miles. could take 25–90 minutes and is exceptionally difficult
Multiple corroded nipples that won’t turn. to do successfully unless the damage is minor. Precision
Multiple damaged nipples (rounded-off flats). spoke-tension balancing (optional on high-performance
Dents or bends in the rim that cannot be adequately wheels) can add 15–30 minutes.
straightened by normal spoke adjustment and
unbending techniques.
17 – 2
17– WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR
WHEEL-REPAIR TOOLS (table 17-1)

NIPPLE WRENCHES (inaccurately called “spoke wrenches”)
Campagnolo UT-HU070 Fits 5.5mm hex-head nipples in many Campagnolo wheels
Generic multi-wrenches Fit multiple sizes but usually not all critical ones, awkward to hold
Park SW-0 Black wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.2mm nipples
Park SW-1 Green wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.3mm nipples
Park SW-2 Red wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.5mm nipples
Park SW-3 Blue wrench fits 12-gauge spoke nipples
Park SW-4 Yellow wrench fits 11-gauge spoke nipples
Park SW-7 Three-size multi-wrench that is painful to hold
Park SW-10 Adjustable clamping wrench fits all odd sizes and partially damaged nipples
Rika Spokey (red) Comfortable, resists slippage, fits 3.3mm nipples
Rika Spokey (yellow) Comfortable, resists slippage, fits 3.5mm nipples
Spline Drive S/T Fits spline-drive nipples
VAR 51/1 Fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.3mm nipples
VAR 51/2 Fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.5mm nipples
SPOKE-SIZING TOOLS
Hozan C700 Relatively inexpensive spoke-threading machine but impractical for more
than 2–3 spokes at a time; valuable for creating replacement spokes in
unusual sizes; ideal for wheels that just need a few spokes replaced
Phil Wood Spoke Threading Cuts and threads spokes, difficult to cost-justify, difficult to create con-
Machine sistent length of threading (makes truing more difficult)
DT Spoke Ruler Inexpensive spoke ruler measures in millimeters and inches but alumi-
num gauge notches lose accuracy quickly
Phil Wood Spoke Length Expensive, precise, durable, and measures millimeters and inches; supe-
Gauge rior variety of gauge notches that retain accuracy
Wheelsmith TR-001 Precise, durable, and measures millimeters and inches; limited variety of
gauge notches
TENSION METERS (all choices need periodic recalibration, check with supplier for price and availability)
Hozan C737 Expensive, fragile, precise readings, poor documentation and accuracy
Wheelsmith N001 Less expensive, durable, less-precise readings, good documentation
DT Digital Tension Meter Very expensive, fragile, precise digital readings, good documentation
DT Dial Tension Meter Expensive, fragile, precise dial-gauge readings, good documentation
Park TM-1 Least expensive, durable, less-precise readings, very easy to learn to use,
good documentation, includes tool for measuring spoke gauge
SPOKE CUTTERS
Small bolt cutter (various) Heavy-duty spoke cutter for cutting out old spokes
Eldi 297 Cuts excess spoke off at nipple head but fits inside few rims
Hozan C216 Cuts excess spoke off at nipple head but fits inside few rims
DISHING TOOLS
Campagnolo N Slow to use, fits 26" and larger only
Park WAG-4 Light-duty tool fits 20" wheels and larger, only tool that works with tire
in place; best use is for determining wheel dish error before tire removal
Park WAG-3 Light-duty folding tool, fits 26" wheels and larger
VAR 143 Heavy-duty, quick and easy to use, fits 20" wheels and larger
Continued
17 – 3
COMPLICATIONS to repair. A damaged nipple can be turned or removed

with a Park SW-10 nipple wrench.
Hub adjustment is loose Frozen nipples
A wheel cannot be trued if the hub adjustment has any
As soon as one frozen nipple is encountered, turn all
free play. The mechanic changes the existing adjustment by
the nipples on the wheel to see if others will be a problem.
eliminating free play. The mechanic is responsible for return-
A wheel with many frozen nipples is not cost effective to
ing the adjustment to at least as good as it was originally.
repair. A frozen nipple can be turned or removed with a
The mechanic is not responsible for making the adjustment
Park SW-10 nipple wrench, although it is often necessary
more correct than it started out, unless the customer agrees
to find a way to keep the spoke from turning.
to pay for a hub adjustment.
Rounded wrench-flats on nipples Broken spoke
A broken spoke is routine in itself and not necessarily
As soon as one rounded nipple is encountered, turn all
a complication. On a rear wheel, it often leads to freewheel
the nipples on the wheel to see if others will be a problem.
removal, which itself can become very problematic.
A wheel with many damaged nipples is not cost effective
WHEEL-REPAIR TOOLS (table 17-1 continued)

SPOKE-STABLIZING TOOLS
Twist Resist 2 Securely and harmlessly grips spokes to prevent twisting and wind-up,
left-hand and right-hand versions available, invaluable with straight-pull
and non-round spokes
Slot-type tools (various) Made by various manufacturers, not as effective as Twist Resist 2
AXLE ADAPTERS
Cannondale QCTL108 Enables installation of Cannondale Lefty wheel in regular truing stand
Cannondale HD122 Enables installation of any 20mm-axle wheels in regular truing stand
RIM REPAIR TOOLS
Bicycle Research RS-1 Pliers-type tool squeezes blips out of rims and aligns offset spliced rim
seams
TRUING STANDS AND STAND ACCESSORIES
United Bicycle Tool CV-290 Metric feeler-gauge set for measuring round, lateral, and dish errors
Hozan A340 Oversize motorcycle-wheel true stand
Pure Cycle True Stand High-quality consumer model, adequate for shop use, eliminates need to
adjust play out of hub
Park TS-2 Durable, easy wheel in/out, easy adjust of reading gauges
Park TS-7 Consumer-model stand that will cost more time than its low price justifies
Park TSB-2 Tilt base for Park TS-2 helps compensate for mounting TS-2 at poor
height
Park TS-3 Expensive, best stand for use with dial gauges, potentially most accurate
built-in dish adjustment, eliminates need to adjust play out of hub
United Bicycle UB-DI Dial indicator for adding to existing true stand that can provide readouts
to .025mm; unnecessary accuracy, not a time saver
VAR 74 Awkward wheel installation and indicator adjustment
SUPPLIES
DT Spoke Freeze Thread-preparation compound reduces corrosion and vibration loosening,
is applied to assembled wheel
Wheelsmith Spoke Prep Thread-preparation compound reduces corrosion and vibration loosening,
can only be applied during assembly
Sanford Sharpie Fine Point Used for marking on rim to keep track of correction zones and tension
permanent marker readings
17 – 4
Multiple broken spokes are caused by impact to the rim that occurs in-line with
Multiple broken spokes can be encountered several the plane of the wheel (such as hitting curbs or landing
different ways: The wheel may come into the shop with too hard). Repair is possible, but success is rare.
several broken spokes; several spokes may break while Simple lateral bends are revealed by having loose spokes
truing the wheel; or there may be only one broken spoke just in the section of the wheel on the side that should be
currently but evidence of other previously broken spokes loosened to correct a lateral error or by very tight spokes right
due to the presence of mismatched nipples or spokes. The where it would be best to tighten some to correct a lateral
problem is that a wheel with multiple broken spokes is error. These lateral bends are caused by impact to the rim
certain to break more spokes soon. Replacing the current from the side. Repair is possible, but success is rare.
broken ones becomes a very temporary repair that costs Another type of rim bend is a ding in the bead. The outer
the customer a lot of money in the long run, especially if perimeter of the rim is deformed, but the body of the rim is
it is done over and over again. unharmed. If the bead is collapsed straight in, there is no real
problem and no solution. If the bead is deformed outward,
Damaged spokes it can be pressed back in with some success.
Spokes may be bowed, bent, kinked, or chewed up. Rims can collapse catastrophically. The wheel will
Most bows and bends are not a problem, but a kinked
have a shape like a potato chip, with two large wobbles
spoke (sharp bend) is weak.
to the right alternating with two large wobbles to the left.
The most common damage is for all the head-in
This is unrepairable.
spokes in the right flange to be chewed up by a chain
that has shifted past the innermost rear cog. Although Cracked rims
these spokes are weakened, one must balance the fact Cracks can occur in rims at the nipple holes, at the inner
that they could have some reasonable life left against the perimeter of the sidewall, or in the sidewall. In all these cases,
fact that the only cost-effective repair for the shop is to the rim is useless. Cracks around nipple holes or at the inner
rebuild the wheel (complicated by the issue of whether or perimeter of the sidewall usually indicate excessive spoke
not to rebuild with the same rim). It’s usually best to true tension. Cracks in the face of the sidewall may be from abuse
a wheel with chewed-up spokes and rebuild it completely or, more likely, from excessive rim wear.
if and when the spokes begin to break.
Worn-out rim sidewalls
Replacing spokes of unusual length Worn-out sidewalls occur primarily on off-road bikes
It is very likely that customers will bring in wheels for that are used in a lot of wet conditions. The dirt being
which the shop has no matching lengths of spokes. Hozan ground between the brake pads and the rim wears away the
makes an inexpensive spoke threader that is a better choice rim surface. Although texture is a good indicator of wear,
than turning away the work or ordering the spokes. the best indicator is a concave shape (curved in) to the
Spokes protruding past nipples sidewall. Most rims have flat surfaces or convex surfaces.
When spokes protrude past the nipples, they may punc- Rim failure is imminent and can be catastrophic.
ture the tube, or the nipples may run out of thread. Poor-quality rim seams
A small amount of protrusion in a rim that has nipples Rim seams can be offset, narrow, fat, or flat at the
down in a recessed well is not a problem. If the end of bead. A Bicycle Research RS1 can be used to eliminate
the spoke can reach the rim strip, then it must be ground offset on non-welded rims or to squeeze down a fat seam.
down with a small stone on a rotary tool or filed if acces- If a rim has a narrow seam or a very short radial dip at
sible. This is time consuming. the seam, the error at the seam should be ignored while
If the spoke protrudes, the nipple is hard to turn, truing the wheel. Any error at the seam that includes less
and the spoke tension is low, the nipples are running out than the distance between the two spokes adjacent to the
of thread on the spoke. Since proper tension cannot be seam is a seam problem, not a true problem.
achieved, the wheel is unreliable.
Poor-quality rims
Bent rims Inexpensive bikes often have rims that are so poorly
Four types of bent rims may be encountered. These made that both beads cannot be round at the same time
are radial flat spots, simple lateral bends, bent rim beads, and/or both sidewalls cannot be true at the same time.
and collapsed rims. If one side looks round and true and the other jumps all
Radial flat spots are revealed by having loose spokes over the place, then rim quality is to blame and further
in the very section of the wheel that should be loosened in truing is a waste of time.
order to make the rim more round. These radial flat spots
17 – 5
Tubular tire on rim to be trued procedure for this section goes only as far as necessary
Tubular tires (glued on) present problems with cor- to recover from the damage, then refers back to truing an
recting round, dish, and replacing a nipple. The shop can- undamaged wheel to complete the job. The last section is
not afford the expense of removing and re-gluing within concerned with repairing damaged rims, which once again
the normal price of truing a wheel. In addition, many only goes as far as recovering from the damage, then refers
shops refuse to glue tubulars because of liability. back to the first part on truing undamaged wheels.
If the rim is box shaped, then radial truing can be
done by setting the truing stand radial-true indicators
to the inner perimeter of the rim. If the rim has an
aerodynamic profile, then nothing is possible except TRUING WHEELS WITH
eyeballing the round.
Dish is problematic on tubular rims because the tire
UNDAMAGED RIMS,
interferes with the dish tool, and it is not unusual for the
tire to wobble back and forth on the rim. The best solu-
SPOKES, AND NIPPLES
tion is to deflate the tire and deflect it enough so that the
dish tool can rest on the rim. AVOIDING COMMON PITFALLS
Nipple replacement is a problem because the tire Based on decades of teaching experience, there are ten
must be partially unglued from the rim. Usually lifting up common pitfalls to truing wheels a mechanic should watch
a 2-inch segment is adequate. Using an unattached spoke, out for at all times. The pitfalls are listed here and in some
feed the spoke up through the nipple hole at angle so that cases are repeated as the procedure is described later on.
it comes out beside the tire, attach the nipple, then use Pitfall #1: Avoid turning the nipple the wrong way.
the spoke to pull the nipple down into the rim. Remove Nipples are a right-hand thread, just like any type of jar lid.
the spoke from the nipple, then thread the nipple onto The problem is that while turning the nipple, the viewpoint
the spoke that is coming from the hub. Be sure to put fresh is the same as looking at the “jar” upside down. With the tire
glue under the section of the tire that was lifted! off and looking at the nipple from the tire-side of the rim
(the nipple’s “tire end”), the viewpoint is the same as looking
Mis-laced wheels at the top of the “jar lid.” When the view is of the end of
Usually mis-laced wheels are encountered when truing
the nipple that the spoke attaches to (the “hub end”), it is
up a wheel that has just been laced. There may either be
the same as looking at the “jar” upside down.
erratic tight and loose spokes or there will be a pattern of
Try this experiment. Get any empty jar (preferably
tight and loose spokes.
clear) and hold it upside down. Now, look through the
Erratic tight and loose spokes usually indicate that a
bottom of the jar and turn the lid off. The lid had to be
few spokes were installed wrong, such as one two-cross and
turned clockwise (the normal way to tighten lids) to get
one four-cross in a wheel that is otherwise fully three-cross.
it off. Loosening a nipple when looking at it from “hub
Find and fix the offending mis-laced spokes.
end” is just like loosening the lid on the upside-down jar.
A pattern of tightness and looseness will usually have
Tightening it is just the opposite. If you have trouble with
alternating pairs, with two in a row tight, then two in a
this visualization technique, use a felt tip pen to draw a
row loose. Each pair would include one pulling spoke and
half-circle arrow on the inner perimeter of the rim around
one pushing spoke. When this pattern occurs, it indicates
every fourth nipple in the counterclockwise direction. Turn
that one whole side is mis-laced (all the spokes at least one
nipples the direction the arrow indicates when tightening
hole off from where they should be in the flange). The
and opposite the arrow when loosening.
wheel should be re-laced.
Pitfall #2: There is feedback designed into the
wheel-truing procedure recommended in this chapter that
ABOUT THE REST confirms things are on the right track; don’t bypass the
procedure and lose the feedback. When correcting lateral
OF THIS CHAPTER (side-to-side) errors and radial (round) errors, set the truing
The next section is about truing a wheel that has no rim stand so that its indicators just barely contact the rim. Then, a
damage, broken spokes, or damaged nipples. Everything in very small correction is made. If the correct adjustment
this section is also part of the process of repairing a wheel is made there will be immediate feedback in the form of
with rim damage, broken spokes, or damaged nipples. After the slight contact disappearing! If it does not disappear, either
the section on repairing the undamaged wheel is a section the wrong spoke is being turned or the correct spoke is
on replacing damaged nipples and broken spokes. The being turned in the wrong direction.
17 – 6
If the contact between the truing-stand indicator and pendulum. As it goes left of center, it goes up. As it goes
the rim is too heavy, there will be no immediate feedback right of center, it goes up. While working on radial errors,
as to whether the correction is the right one. Then it is easy the wheel will develop more and more lateral error. If you
to do the wrong thing for a long time before discovering work on radial errors for too long without backtracking to
it or too much of the right thing, which is ultimately the lateral-error correction, there will be more and more false
wrong thing as well. radial errors. It’s a vicious cycle.
Along with this, keep the following guidelines in mind: Pitfall #8: Don’t fail to balance the left- and right-side
Turning a nipple a whole turn is a huge adjustment; turning corrections when correcting a round error (I am getting a
a nipple a half turn is a normal adjustment; and turning a little ahead here, but just try to grasp this concept). If trying
nipple a quarter turn is a fine adjustment. to move a section of the rim closer to the hub, spokes need to
Pitfall #3: Don’t make dish (rim centering to the hub) tightened. If only a left-side spoke is tightened, the rim will be
corrections backward, worsening instead of improving pulled closer to the hub, but it will also be pulled closer to the
an out-of-dish problem. For some reason, many people left side of the hub, since that is where the spoke comes from.
have an intuitive understanding of how to correct a dish If a nearby right-side spoke is tightened an equal amount, it
problem that is just the opposite of the correct way. When too will pull the section of rim closer to the hub but to the
making dish corrections, follow procedures, not instinct! right side as well. Since both spokes were tightened equally
Pitfall #4: Don’t assume that once dish is checked and one pulled the rim left and the other pulled the rim right,
and found to be correct, it will remain correct from then the net effect is that the rim moved closer to the hub but
on. On rear wheels, there is a tendency for the rim to pull stayed laterally stable (did not move closer to the left or right).
to the left slightly as the spokes get tighter. Advanced For this reason, never use one spoke when correcting a radial
wheel mechanics use this to their advantage by tolerating error. If using two spokes, the amount each spoke should
minor errors to the right when the wheel is at low tension, be adjusted will always be equal. If adjusting three spokes in
expecting them to self-correct as the wheel is tightened. a row (it gets trickier now), the total adjustment on left-side
Another way that dish is sometimes lost is when starting spokes has to equal the total adjustment on right-side spokes.
with a well-dished wheel with a major round error. In cor- For example, if the group of three included two left-side
recting the round error, some substantial lateral error is spokes straddling one right-side spoke, tighten the left-side
created. In correcting the lateral error, the dish adjustment spokes a quarter turn each (two quarters equals one half) and
is lost. As a beginner, just keep checking wheel dish, even the one right-side spoke a half turn.
if it checked out fine early on. Pitfall #9: Don’t make errors reading the spoke-
Pitfall #5: Don’t check for dish error when the wheel tension-meter tool and don’t make errors using math to
has significant lateral errors. This is like using a level to average a series of readings. The tension meter does not
check whether a warped stud is perpendicular to the read in familiar units like a ruler. If measuring something
ground. Where the level is put completely changes the familiar, like a letter-size sheet of paper, with a ruler and
interpretation of any error. Always be sure that the lateral the measurement was something ridiculous like 12" × 18",
true is acceptable before using a dish gauge. it would obviously need to be redone. Without any funda-
Pitfall #6: Don’t lose track of the right and left sides mental understanding of the realities of spoke tension and
of the wheel when making dish corrections. A good tech- the units that tension is measured in, extreme care is called
nique is to always wrap a rubber band around the right end for. Watch out for these pitfalls:
of the axle before starting to true the wheel. Always install Confusing very low readings with very high readings.
the wheel in the truing stand with the rubber band on the The nature of the Wheelsmith tension meter is to
right, and always start each dish measurement on the right simultaneously read “0” and “100” when measur-
side of the wheel. By using these habits consistently, the ing tension on a tensionless spoke. As readings of
chance of getting turned around and performing a reverse “100” are virtually impossible and readings of “0”
correction is minimized. are quite common, it is safe to assume the lower
Pitfall #7: Avoid assuming that the lateral alignment of number. Pluck the spoke in question and trust what
the rim remains constant when correcting a series of radial it feels like. If it sings like a bird, the “100” is right.
errors. It is natural to lose some lateral true while adjusting If it has no tone at all, go with the “0.”
radial. For this reason, after every three radial corrections, Do not measure left-side spokes when determining
interrupt the process and go back and recheck for lateral a rear wheel’s overall tension average. By nature,
errors. What makes switching back and forth between radial rear-wheel left-side spokes are significantly lower
and lateral corrections so important is that a rim never in tension than right-side spokes. It is the right-side
moves strictly side to side. Think of the rim as a swinging spokes that reach maximum tension first, and if
17 – 7
left-side spokes are measured it will result in over-
tightening the right side.
DT TENSION METER
The DT tension meter is made in two versions. One
Part of tensioning the wheel is taking readings on a
has a digital readout and the other has a dial gauge. Both
number of spokes and then averaging the read-
take readings in millimeters. The table that comes with the
ings. Over and over again, students at Barnett
tool converts the readings to units of Newtons. The proce-
Bicycle Institute take ten readings ranging from
dures in this section use units of kilograms of force (kgf).
60 to 70 each, average them, come up with an
To convert kgf to Newtons, divide by .102, and to convert
answer of 72.3, then go on as though nothing
Newtons to kgf, multiply by .102. Reasonable accuracy
were wrong. Their mistake is to have left out one
(98%) and simplicity can be achieved by simply moving the
of the readings in a group of ten but still divide
decimal point one position. For example, 100 kgf becomes
by ten to get the average. Sometimes they make
1000 Newtons or 1000 Newtons becomes 100kgf.
the opposite error of adding a number in twice.
With either tool, be sure it reads zero before start-
In this case the average will be near or below
ing. When using the dial-gauge tool, be sure to add the
the lowest readings they took. Be suspicious if an
small-dial value (whole millimeters) and the large-dial value
average is close to or beyond the lowest or highest numbers
(hundredth millimeters) together to get the reading.
being averaged!
Pitfall #10: Don’t lose perspective; avoid seeing little
errors as big errors. As the wheel takes longer and longer PARK TM-1 TENSION METER
to complete, it is easy to become more and more able to When taking a reading, it is easy to get a false high
see errors. A significant number of students at Barnett value by releasing the tool too quickly—always release it
Bicycle Institute make substantial progress on a wheel very slowly and gently. If readings are inconsistent with a
and become convinced that it was worse than when they started! slow release, oil the spring at both ends and at the point
For this reason, it is imperative to measure errors before it coils around the bolt.
fixing them and measure them to determine when to stop, The Park TM-1 has a needle that points to a scale.
rather than relying on subjective judgment. The values on the scale are reading units. In other words,
they don’t correspond to a known dimensional unit. Every
PREPARATIONS fifth line on the scale is labeled in increments of five. Each
line represents one unit.
AND INSPECTIONS When initial readings are clearly low or high, it may be
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike and skewer (if any) acceptable to simply choose the line that is closest to the
from hub. indicator needle, but ultimately it is necessary to make finer
2. [ ] Remove tire from rim. distinctions. If the needle is exactly halfway between two
3. [ ] Mark right end of axle with tape or rubber lines, interpret the reading to a .50 increment. For example,
band.
if the needle points exactly halfway between the marked
4. [ ] Jerk axle side to side to check hub for play.
(Adjust hub to eliminate play if hub is loose.)
20 line and the unmarked 21 line, consider the reading to
5. [ ] Install wheel securely in stand with right be 20.50. If the needle is between two lines but closer to
side of wheel on right side of stand. one than the other, interpret the reading to a .25 increment.
6. [ ] Put a drop of oil where each nipple enters For example, if the needle is between 20 and 21 but closer
rim and a drop of oil on the end of each to 20, consider the reading to be 20.25; or if the reading
nipple where spoke comes out. is between the same two lines and is closer to 21, consider
7. Measure spoke at its midpoint to determine the reading to be 20.75.
gauge. Check off closest of following mea- The table that comes with the tool is used to convert
surements. the reading units to kilograms of force (kgf), which are
ROUND SPOKE SIZES
the units used in the following procedures.
[ ]2.0mm [ ]1.8mm [ ]1.7mm [ ]1.6mm
[ ]1.55mm [ ]1.5mm [ ]Other: ______mm
NON-ROUND SPOKE SIZES (measure the
major and minor thickness)
WHEELSMITH TENSION METER
Before tension can be measured, get familiar with
Minor thickness: ____________mm
Major thickness: ____________mm
how to use the Wheelsmith Tensiometer. Take a look at
figure 17.1 (page 17-9) to see how the tool is placed on
the spoke. One ear of the tool goes over the spoke and
17 – 8
one goes under the same spoke. When the tool is installed Reading increments of 10
correctly, it will hold itself on the spoke. Now look at the tool scale and figure out how to
read it. The top scale has lines numbered 10 to 100 (right
to left). The bottom scale has no numbers. The easiest
D reading to make is if one of the lines on the bottom scale
E touches one of the lines on the top scale. The reading
is then the number adjacent to the line on the top scale
A
that is being touched by a line on the bottom scale. (See
following figures 17.3 and 17.4.)
C A reading of 50
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
B D
17.3 In this example, the reading on the Wheelsmith
E Tensiometer is 50 because the lower-scale line indi-
cated by “A” lines up exactly with the upper-scale line
marked “50.”
A reading of 60
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
17.1 The Wheelsmith Tensiometer is placed on

the spoke so that the ear marked “A” goes over the B A
spoke and the ear marked “B” goes under the spoke. 17.4 In this example, the reading on the Wheelsmith
When point “C” contacts the spoke, squeeze the tool Tensiometer is 60 because the lower-scale line indi-
together at the points marked “D,” so that the points cated by “B” lines up exactly with the upper-scale line
marked “E” can catch on the opposite side of the spoke marked “60.”
from point “C.”
It is important where the tool is placed along the length Reading increments of 5
of the spoke. The entire tool must be between the rim and If none of the lines on the bottom scale touch any of
the last point where the spokes cross each other on the the lines on the top scale, look for the two lines that come
way to the rim. Also, if the spokes are butted (thick on the closer to touching than any of the others. Let’s say there
ends and thin in the middle) the entire tool needs to be on is a line on the bottom scale that comes close to touching
the thin portion of the spoke. Sometimes butting is hard the 50 line on the top scale, and there is another line on the
to see. Grasp the spoke between two fingertips and feel bottom scale that comes equally close to touching the 60
for a change as you slide your fingers from one end of the line. In this case, split the difference between 50 and 60 and
spoke to the other, or set a caliper tight on the spoke near call the reading a 55. (See following figure 17.5.)
the middle of its length and see if the caliper jams before A reading of 55
it will slide all the way to the nipple. 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
One more important tip about the Wheelsmith Ten-

B A
siometer is how to hold it while taking a reading. It is
best to support it on one finger, as in the next picture. If 17.5 In this example, the lower-scale line indicated
by “A” is close to the upper-scale line marked “50,” the
held between two fingers, there is a chance the additional lower scale line indicated by “B” is close to the upper-
pressure will influence the reading. scale line marked “60,” and they are equally close. Con-
sequently, the reading is halfway between 50 and 60,
which is 55.
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
Reading increments of 2.5 and 7.5

When no lines touch, it will not always be the case
that the two closest will be equally close to the lines they
don’t quite touch. Sticking with the above example, if the
line close to 50 is closer to 50 than the line close to 60 is
17.2 Holding a Wheelsmith Tensiometer while taking a close to 60, then the reading would be 52.5. If the reverse
reading. Note use of single finger—do not grasp! were true, with the line near 60 being the closer one, then
17 – 9
the reading would be 57.5 instead. (See following figures because the average reading is exactly halfway between two
17.6 and 17.7.) readings on the table.
A reading of 52.5 Spoke Tension in Kilograms of Force (kgf)
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
Spoke Gauge and center dimension (mm)*
Tensiometer SS-14 SS-15 DB-14
B A Reading 2.0 1.8 1.7
17.6 In this example, the reading on the Wheelsmith 10
Tensiometer is close to 50 because the lower-scale line
marked “A” is closer than any other line on the lower 15
scale is close to any other line on the upper scale. The
reading is more than 50 because the “A” line is on the 20 48
60 side of 50. The reading is below 55 because the “A” 25 49 52
line is closer to 50 than the “B” line is close to 60, so
the reading is 52.5. 30 53 57
35 58 63
A reading of 57.5
40 64 70
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10
45 51 71 78
B A
50 55 80 90
17.7 In this example, the reading on the Wheelsmith
Tensiometer is close to 60 because the lower-scale line 55 61 92 105
marked “B” is closer than any other line on the lower scale
is close to any other line on the upper scale. The reading is
60 68 108 126
less than 60 because the “B” line is on the 50 side of 60. 65 77 128 158
The reading is above 55 because the “B” line is closer to
60 than the “A” line is close to 50, so the reading is 57.5. 70 89
75 104
USING CONVERSION TABLES 80 127

62.5=118
All brands of tension meters come with conversion
tables that show what the force on the spoke is for the 17.8 A Wheelsmith Tensiometer chart.
reading value on the tool. The tables have different col- Average readings are not always found on the table
umns for different spoke types. Find the correct column or halfway between two numbers on the table. The math-
and the row with the reading value seen on the tool, then ematics for interpolating the values at any point between
move horizontally to the force column (kgf or Newton) two numbers on the table is a process of finding a cor-
to determine the force. respondence of values in one column to the values in
Interpolation another column.
The increment of increase of force from one row to For example, if the increment of change in the kgf
the next is usually quite large. A greater degree of preci- column from one row to the next is 5 (60 to 65), but the
sion is necessary. It would be simple if the tables had more increment of change in the reading column for 2.0mm
rows and more precise increments, but since they do not, spokes for the same two rows is 10 (72 to 82), then there
a mathematical process called interpolation is needed to is a 1:2 correspondence between the values in the two
interpret the in-between values. columns (see following example table). In other words,
The following examples are for a Wheelsmith Tensi- each increase of 1 in the reading column corresponds to
ometer and its accompanying table. The process is equiva- an increase of 2 in the kgf column. Therefore, a reading
lent when using the tables that come with other brands of of 61 (increase of 1) is a kgf of 74 (increase of 2) and
tools. a reading of 62 (another increase of 1) is a kgf of 76
Assume a batch of readings have been taken, and they (another increase of 2).
averaged 62.5. The spoke gauge is 1.8mm. On the accom- Tool reading 2.0mm spoke 1.8mm spoke
panying chart (figure 17.8), the average reading is found in (kgf) (kgf)
the reading column (halfway between 60 and 65), and the 60 72 87
kgf is interpolated to be 118 (halfway between 108, which 65 82 100
is the tension for a reading of 60, and 128, which is the ten-
This counting-off approach works fine if the aver-
sion for a reading of 65). This interpolation is very simple
age reading value is always a whole number and the cor-
17 – 10
responding increases in the kgf columns are always all in Fill in the blanks in the following calculator pro-
whole numbers, but when any of the increments are not cedure, then enter the values and function keys in the
whole numbers, a better method is needed. This method sequence indicated to interpolate the kgf value from the
requires three mathematical steps: a division step, a mul- tool reading.
tiplication step, and an addition step. In the next example, Average reading Lesser reading Reading increase
the exact same interpolation as the previous example is ___________ –
+ ___________ = + ___________
done utilizing the three mathematical steps. This method
is demonstrated by the two following examples. Greater reading Lesser reading Reading range
Example 1: The average reading of the tool is 61, ___________ –
+ ___________ = + ___________
which falls between 60 and 65 in the example table below.
Reading increase Reading range Step 1 result
These two reading values are called the lesser reading and
the greater reading in the example. The difference between ___________ ÷ ___________ = + ___________
the average reading and the lesser reading is called the reading Greater kgf Lesser kgf Kgf range
increase in the example. The difference between the lesser
___________ –
+ ___________ =+ ___________
reading and the greater reading is called the reading range. The
reading range from 60 to 65 is 5. The readings 60 and 65
Kgf range Step 1 result Step 2 result
correspond to the kgf values 72 and 82 in the 2.0mm
___________ ×
+ ___________ = + ___________
spoke column below. These two kgf values are called the
lesser kgf and the greater kgf in the example. The difference
between the lesser kgf and the greater kgf is the kgf range. The Step 2 result Lesser kgf KGF VALUE
kgf range from 72 to 82 is 10. ___________ +
+ ___________ =+ ___________
Step 1: Divide reading increase by reading range:
(1 ÷ 5 = .2).
Step 2: Multiply kgf range by result of step 1: ESTABLISHING
(10 × .2 = 2).
Step 3: Add result of step 2 to lesser kgf value:
STARTING TENSION
In the next step, measure the tension on the spokes
(72 + 2 = 74).
(right side only if a rear wheel, left side only if a front disc
Tool reading 2.0mm spoke 1.8mm spoke wheel). The reason to start with this measurement is that
(kgf) (kgf) the process of truing more than likely will add tension to
60 72 87 the wheel. If the wheel starts out with a high tension, it
65 82 100 might end up being tightened too much. Usually, if the
Example 2: The average reading of the tool is 62.2, tension is over 80kgf, it makes sense to loosen the wheel
which falls between 60 and 65 in the example table (above). before starting to true the wheel. Resist the tendency to
These two reading values are called the lesser reading and tighten a wheel that starts out loose (under 80kgf); a loose
the greater reading in the example. The difference between wheel automatically becomes tighter from the truing pro-
the average reading and the lesser reading is called the reading cess (tightening the wheel before truing will lead to too
increase in the example. The difference between the lesser much tension). If the wheel does not gain enough tension
reading and the greater reading is called the reading range. The from truing, more tension can be easily added at the end
reading range from 60 to 65 is 5. The readings 60 and 65 of the truing process.
correspond to the kgf values 72 and 82 in the 2.0mm 8. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right-
side spokes (left on front disc), record read-
spoke column above. These two kgf values are called the
ings in following blanks, and total.
lesser kgf and the greater kgf in the example. The difference
between the lesser kgf and the greater kgf is the kgf range. The _____+_____+_____+_____+_____
kgf range from 72 to 82 is 10.
Step 1: Divide reading increase by reading range: _____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______
(2.2 ÷ 5 = .44). 9. [ ] Divide step 8 total by 10 ÷10
Step 2: Multiply kgf range by result of step 1: Average reading is: =_______
(10 × .44 = 4.4).
Step 3: Add result of step 2 to lesser kgf value:
(72 + 4.4 = 76.4).
17 – 11
10. [ ] Convert average reading to approximate kgf finding something to wedge underneath one of the indica-
for spoke gauge in use: _____ (use lowest tors so that it does not move in anymore.
listed value if kgf column is blank adjacent Start the next series of steps with a measurement to
to current average reading). determine whether there is a need to make corrections.
11. [ ] Choose: Tension is <70kgf or >70kgf (cir-
Use feeler gauges to measure the error. Start the wheel
cle one choice).
spinning and adjust the lateral-true indicator(s) until there is
NOTE: If <70kgf circled in previous step, skip to
step 13): the slightest detectable rub. Now turn the wheel slowly and
12. [ ] If >70kgf is checked in step 11: Loosen all find what looks like the largest gap that occurs between the
spokes one half turn and repeat steps 8–12 lateral-true indicator that rubbed the rim and the rim.
until average is <70kgf.
CORRECTING LATERAL ERRORS

Lateral error needs to be corrected before radial error
or dish error because measuring and correcting radial or 0.50mm
dish errors is compromised if there is significant lateral
error. The basic technique when correcting lateral error Lateral-true indicator
is to set the truing indicators to barely rub the rim at one
point as the wheel rotates in the stand, stop the wheel at Biggest gap
that point, and tighten one spoke just enough to eliminate this side of wheel
the rub. Then the indicators are moved in just enough
to create another rub, which is then eliminated. This
is repeated over and over again until the lateral error 17.9 Using a .5mm feeler gauge to check whether lat-
becomes insignificant (<.5mm). Because there is no way eral error is within acceptable tolerance.
to predict how many times it will be necessary to repeat
13. [ ] Spin wheel and set lateral-true indicators so
the process, the next steps are written as a repetitive cycle, that they just barely touch rim.
each time ending with: “Insert .5mm feeler gauge in 14. [ ] Turn wheel slowly and find largest gap
gap to determine if it is<.5mm and return to step between rim and indicator that touched rim.
16 if it is not.” Once the tolerance is met, move on to 15. [ ] Insert .5mm feeler gauge into gap to
the next step. determine if gap is:
Depending on the brand of truing stand being ≥.5mm (bad) <.5mm (good)
used, there are different techniques to setting the truing A handy technique for the beginner is to use a “marker”
indicator(s) so that they just rub. If using a stand such as on the rim at each point a correction will be made. The
the VAR 74, which has separately adjustable left and right marker could be a 1/2" piece of tape, such as masking tape.
indicators, it takes a little adjustment to set them into posi- Each time a rub is found, mark the center by putting the
tion. First, just get the wheel spinning at a good clip. As it tape on top of the rim (not on the face where the truing
spins, try to get an idea of where the rim is the majority of indicator might knock it off). Alternatively, use two markers
the time. If it is running generally straight but with a few to mark where a rub begins and where it ends.
pronounced wobbles, decide whether those wobbles are 16. [ ] Spin wheel slowly and stop it at the point
primarily to the right or to the left. If they are predominantly where rim just rubs the lateral-true indicator.
to one side, use the indicator on that side of the stand. If If wheel rotates past rub, be sure to turn
unsure, or the rim appears to wobble equally to the right and wheel back so rim is contacting indicator.
Find center of rub zone, not just one end.
the left, alternate each lateral correction between the worst
In the next step, pick which spoke(s) to use to correct
rub on the left and the worst rub on the right. If using the
the rub. It will always come from the opposite side of the
Park stand, the two indicators move in simultaneously to
wheel than where the indicator is rubbing. If the indicator
the rim. This can be a blessing or a problem. It’s a blessing
is rubbing on the right side of the rim over a short distance
because the indicators determine by themselves whether the
directly opposite a left-side spoke, then tighten that left-side
worst rub is to the right or left side. It’s a problem when the
spoke one half turn. If the rub on the right is short and
wheel or stand is off-center and it keeps rubbing on one
halfway between two left-side spokes or slightly longer and
side when the worst wobble is to the other side. This can
includes two left-side spokes, then it is necessary to pick
be solved by either turning the wheel around in the stand or
which spoke to use for the correction. Pluck the two spokes
in question. If one is obviously looser than the other, tighten
17 – 12
it. If they are equal, then it is OK to split the half turn cor- 19. [ ] Spin wheel and set lateral-true indicators so
rection between them with a quarter turn each. Beginners that they just barely touch rim.
should stick with using one spoke. 20. [ ] Only if wheel looks reasonably true, turn
17. [ ] Find spoke (or two, at most) from side of wheel slowly and find largest gap between
hub opposite side of rub that is closest to rim and indicator that touched rim. If errors
center of rub (or lesser-tensioned spoke of remain obvious, return to step 16 now.
pair that are both close to center of rub) and 21. [ ] Insert a .5mm feeler gauge in gap to
tighten it one half turn (quarter turn each if determine if it is <.5mm and return to step
adjusting two spokes). 16 if it is not.
NOTE: If gap is <.5mm go to step 22.
CORRECTING RADIAL ERRORS

Radial-error correction is probably the most
demanding part of truing wheels. Many judgments have
to be made about how many spokes to include in a correc-
tion. Both rubbing and the lack of rubbing may indicate
1/2 turn errors. So, some corrections must be done by loosening
and some by tightening. Radial corrections must constantly
be interrupted to recheck and correct any lateral errors
that develop while working on round. Remember: Make
sure that the total turns of correction on one side of the
Rub on left centered wheel equal the total turns of correction on the other
on right-side spoke side of the wheel.
Radial errors can either be a place where the rim is
further or closer to the hub than a perfectly round wheel.
17.10 If there is a short rub on the left centered Those places where the rim is further from the wheel
exactly opposite a right-side spoke, tighten that spoke
one-half turn.
center are called “bumps,” and those that are closer to the
wheel center are “dips.” Think of it as though the outer
perimeter of the rim were a road, and the irregularities
on the road are bumps and dips.
The strategy when correcting radial errors is to take
care of bumps before taking care of dips. There are two
reasons for this. First, it is easier to detect the bumps
1/4 turn (by the rim rubbing on the truing indicators) than it is
each
B to detect the dips (by looking for gaps). Second, it is like
building a nice, flat highway through hilly terrain. It is
easier to smooth off the hilltops than it is to fill in the
valleys. Also, by reducing the size of the hills, you also
A diminish the valleys—if you don’t get that right away,
1/2 turn you will. Rims are not quite the same but the effect is. By
working on eliminating bumps first, there will be less to
do with dips.
The first step is to measure the radial error, so it is
Rub on left centered
on left-side spoke known how much work must be done and when progress
has been made. To do this, set the truing indicator so that
it barely scrapes against the outer perimeter of the turning
17.11 There is a short rub on the left that is centered rim. Turn the rim slowly and find the biggest gap between
between two right-side spokes; if A is looser than B, the rim and the truing indicator, then use a feeler gauge(s)
tighten A one half turn. If they seem equally tight, then to measure this gap.
tighten them both a quarter turn.
If the truing stand is a VAR or similar model, there is
18. [ ] Move rub section past true indicator again to a separate plate that slides up and down that is the radial-
check that rub is eliminated. true indicator. If the plate will tip a little to the side, it can
17 – 13
be set so that it contacts one edge of the rim only. This
is preferable! The Park stand uses the same indicators for
radial true as it does for lateral true. Tighten the knob 1/2 turn
under the big arm so that the indicators will miss the rim
entirely when they are adjusted in toward the rim. When 1/2 turn
the indicators are under the rim, start the rim turning
and loosen the knob under the big arm until an indicator
just touches the rim. In almost every case, it will touch
at one edge of the rim before the other. Once again, this
is preferable. When correcting radial true, it is preferable Short rub centered
to get information from only one edge of the rim. The between two spokes
adjustment for the radial at the right edge of the rim is
the identical adjustment for the radial at the left edge of 17.12 Fix a radial bump including two spokes in its
the rim. When correcting deviations observed at one edge, range by tightening both spokes equally.
the other edge is getting rounder simultaneously. Since it
is impossible for any rim to have exactly identical left and
right edges, if the indicator touches both edges at once
1/4 turn
you will get confusing information. Adjust the radial by
one edge of the rim and trust that the other will also end
up in tolerance. 1/2 turn
Eliminating bump errors 1/4 turn

22. [ ] Spin wheel and adjust radial-true indicator
so that rim just barely rubs it as rim turns.
Observe whether rub is on left or right
edge of rim. Short rub centered
23. [ ] Turn rim slowly and look for biggest gap on one spoke
between indicator and edge of rim on
same side as rub occurred. Stop rim at big-
gest gap. 17.13 Fix a radial bump including three spokes in its
24. [ ] Insert .5mm feeler gauge into gap to range by tightening the end spokes a quarter turn each
determine if gap is: and the middle spoke a half turn.
≥.5mm (bad) <.5mm (good) Fixing rubs over four or more spokes is different.
With the radial indicator still set in the same way, The easiest way to deal with a bigger problem is to make
give the wheel another spin and again find the slight it a number of smaller problems. In this case, instead of
rub that is occurring. If the wheel spins past the rub, be putting the marker in the middle of the rub, put a marker
sure to back up to it. Figure out where the rub begins at each end of the rub. Instead of thinking of the rub
and where it ends. Put a marker on the inner perimeter as one big error, think of it as a number of two-spoke
of the rim at the center of the rub. The rub might be rub errors. (If the rub range included an odd number of
short (including two or three spokes in its range) or long spokes, the last correction will be a three-spoke correc-
(including four or more spokes in its range). Long rubs tion [1/4, 1/2, 1/4], instead of a two-spoke correction
in the early going often indicate that the truing indicator like all the others.) If you are unclear about this system,
is set to tight against the rim. See if the indicator can be follow the two examples below. The first example is a rub
set looser to get a shorter rub. that includes four spokes in its range. For the sake of this
A different technique is required for fixing a short discussion, the spokes will be called spoke A, B, C, and D.
rub including two spokes than a short rub including three Correct this four-spoke rub by treating it like two short
spokes. For two spokes, tighten both spokes equally (gen- rubs involving two spokes each. Tighten A and B a half
erally a half turn each or perhaps just a quarter). For three turn each (first correction) and then C and D a half turn
spokes, tighten the two on the ends a quarter turn each each (second correction). The second example involves
and the one in the middle a half turn. With this method, a longer rub including seven spokes, called spokes F, G,
the total number of turns on right-side spokes equals the H, I, J, K, and L. The first correction is to tighten F and
total number of turns on left-side spokes; therefore, the G a half turn each. The second correction is to tighten H
impact on the lateral true will be minimized. and I a half turn each. The third correction is to tighten J
17 – 14
a quarter turn, K a half turn, and L a quarter turn. Once 28. [ ] Spin wheel and adjust radial-true indicator to
again the rule of tightening left- and right-side spokes barely rub again.
equal amounts applies. 29. [ ] Turn wheel slowly to check for largest gap
at edge where rub occurs. Check if gap
is <.5mm and repeat steps 25–29 if not.
L After every three cycles of steps 25 through
(1/4, 1/2, 1/4) 29, check and correct lateral errors until
largest gap is <.5mm.
NOTE: At end of step 29 if largest gap is <.5mm,
proceed to CORRECTING DISH ERRORS (page 17-16).
K
30. [ ] If largest gap is >.5mm but setting truing
indicator to slight contact results in rub
around rim at a number of sections including
over 50% of spokes, proceed to Eliminating dip
J
errors (immediately following this step).
Eliminating dip errors
1/2 turn
The very nature of a dip error makes it harder to find
each I
because the truing indicator skips over the dip without
any obvious feedback that the error is there. Make this
an advantage by setting the radial-true indicator so that
H
1/2 turn it rubs so firmly against the rim that it rubs everywhere
each but one short range. This quiet range is the worst radial
G dip. Determine where the dip begins and ends and put a
Long rub including marker on the inner perimeter of the rim at the center of
F odd number of spokes the quiet range. Just like the bumps, dips can involve two
spokes, three spokes, or longer sections of four or more
spokes that must be broken down into a series of two- or
three-spoke corrections. Other than looking for the quiet
range instead of a rub, the only difference between fixing
dips instead of bumps is that spokes must be loosened in
the quiet range instead of tightened in the rubbing range.
17.14 Fix a radial bump of four or more spokes by A correction is completed when the rim just barely rubs
breaking it down into short sections including two
spokes, with the last section including three spokes if the at the marker where before it was quiet.
total range of the rub included an odd number of spokes. 31. [ ] Set radial-true indicators firmly against outer
perimeter of rim so that only one short sec-
As with the correction of lateral rubs, if these cor- tion of rim does not rub as wheel is rotated.
rections are done properly, the result will be that the rub 32. [ ] Rotate rim slowly to find quiet range and
disappears. If it does not, either nipples are being turned place marker at center of quiet range.
the wrong way, the range of the rub has not been deter- 33. [ ] Loosen appropriate group of spokes (two or
mined accurately, or the truing indicator has been set too three) so that spokes on each side of wheel
tight so that the rub was not light. are loosened equal amounts (1/2 + 1/2 or
Once the rub goes away, go on to the next correction. 1/4 + 1/2 + 1/4).
34. [ ] Move rim back and forth to check that rub
After three corrections (count every two- or three-spoke
has developed at marker.
group as a correction), interrupt the radial work and check
35. [ ] Spin wheel and adjust radial-true indicator to
the lateral again, correcting it if necessary until the largest barely rub again.
gap is <.5mm. 36. [ ] Turn wheel slowly to check for largest gap
25. [ ] Rotate rim slowly to find radial rub and iden- at edge where rub occurs. Check if gap
tify center of range of rub. is <.5mm and repeat steps 31–36 if not.
26. [ ] Tighten appropriate group of spokes (two After every three cycles of steps 31–36,
or three) so that spokes on each side of the check and correct lateral errors until largest
wheel are tightened equal amounts (1/2 + gap is <.5mm.
1/2 or 1/4 + 1/2 + 1/4). 37. [ ] If largest gap is <.5mm proceed to COR-
27. [ ] Move rim back and forth to check that rub is RECTING DISH ERRORS (immediately following).
gone within original range of rub.
17 – 15
CORRECTING DISH ERRORS one on the hub). Theoretically, the tool can be initially set
on either side of the wheel; for the purposes of simplicity
Dish corrections are made to center the rim in the
and clarity, the following discussion assumes that the dish
bike. A rim can be moved to the right by tightening all the
tool has been set for three-point contact on the right side
right-side spokes or loosening all the left-side spokes. A
of the wheel.
rim can be moved to the left in the opposite way.
Contact Contact
Dish tool
B
17.16 Adjust the dish tool to have three-point contact.
Next, the tool is transferred to the left side of the
wheel. At random, one of three conditions might be
17.15 Dish error exists when dimensions A and B are found. The tool might contact at three points, indicating
not equal. The dish tool is used to make this compara- no dish correction is needed. Second, when the dish tool
tive measurement. is held down against the rim at one end, it contacts at the
hub but has a gap at the other point on the rim (180°
Dish and spoke tension away). In this case, the gap should be measured (with
The average tension of the wheel has changed since feeler gauges) and perhaps corrected. The last possibility
lateral and radial errors were corrected. After determining is that the tool might contact the rim at two points but
a dish error exists, you need to know whether to tighten or has a gap at the hub. There is an error that needs to be
loosen spoke tension and on which side. If tension is still measured and perhaps corrected, but not until the tool is
low, spokes must be tightened. If the tension is too high, reset on the left side of the wheel for three-point contact
spokes must be loosened to correct dish. If the tension is and transferred back to the right side so that the error can
fine, a mix of tightening and loosening spokes is needed be measured at a gap at the rim.
to correct the dish error.
For example, if a dish error is detected that would be
corrected by either tightening all the right-side spokes a
half turn or loosening all the left-side spokes a half turn
but the tension on the wheel is correct, then the dish cor- Gap
rection would be made by tightening the right-side spokes
a quarter turn each and loosening the left-side spokes a
quarter turn each.
Dish and lateral errors 17.17 A gap seen at the hub after transferring the
Lateral error and dish error are closely related. As men- tool to the second side. Reset the tool and transfer back
to the other side.
tioned in pitfall #5, useful information about dish cannot be
determined when the wheel has significant lateral errors. At
the conclusion of the radial-error corrections, lateral errors
were checked and cleaned up as necessary, so at this point
the wheel is ready for the initial dish observation. Once a Press
dish correction is made, check the lateral again (and correct
if necessary) before re-checking the dish.
Measuring dish error Measure gap
To determine the amount of dish error, use a tool 17.18 Measure the gap between the end of the dish
called a dish gauge. The dish gauge rests on the rim at tool and the rim.
two points 180° apart, and then an adjustable part is set to
contact the face of the locknut on the axle, so that the tool
is contacting the wheel at three points (two on the rim and
17 – 16
Whether to measure dish error at hub .718 (for example), definitely go with three quarter turn
nipple adjustments.
or rim
The last condition of resetting the tool and trans- Fixing dish errors
ferring back to the right side needs to be explained. Error To fix dish, set the dish tool so that a gap is found
can legitimately be measured either at the gap at the rim or between one end of the tool and the rim on the side of
at the gap at the hub. (When referring to gap at the rim, the wheel opposite from where the tool had perfect three-
it always means that with one end of the tool held to the point contact. Second, measure the gap and divide by eight
rim there is gap at the other end of the tool.) Two things (gap in millimeters) and round the answer to the nearest
change, in either case. quarter-turn increment to determine the size of the nipple
If the gap is at the rim (on the left, for example) and adjustments. Third, measure the tension in order to know
spokes will be tightened, they will be tightened on the same whether to tighten or loosen nipples when correcting dish
side of the wheel (left side, in this case). If the gap is at (see page 17-8). Make the adjustment by either tightening
the left side of the rim and spokes will be loosened, they will the nipples on the same side of the wheel as where the
be loosened on the opposite side of the wheel (right side, dish tool showed a gap to the rim or by loosening the
in this example). If the gap is at the hub (on the left, for nipples on the other side of the wheel.
example) and spokes will be tightened, they will be tightened 38. [ ] Set dish tool to have three-point contact on
on the opposite side of the wheel (right side, in this case). right side of wheel.
If the gap is at the left side of the hub and spokes will 39. [ ] Transfer dish tool to left side of wheel.
Check one of following:
be loosened, they will be loosened on the same side of the
[ ] Gap at rim is 0–2mm, proceed to step 52.
wheel (left side, in this case).
[ ] Gap at rim is >2mm, proceed to step 42.
Additionally, for a given amount of dish error, the [ ] Gap is seen at the hub.
gap seen at the hub will always be half the size of the 40. [ ] If gap is seen at hub: Set dish tool to have
gap at the rim when the tool is transferred to the other three-point contact on left side of wheel.
side. Use a formula (described in the next paragraph 41. [ ] If gap is seen at hub: Transfer dish tool to
and built into the procedure) to convert gap size to the right side of wheel. Gap will now be found at
size (number of turns) of the correction. If the formula rim; proceed to step 42.
is designed to be correct for converting gap-at-rim to 42. [ ] If gap is seen at rim: With one end of dish
turns-of-correction, then it will be wrong for converting tool held to rim, measure gap at other end
and record gap here: ________ on Left side
gap-at-hub to turns-of-correction.
Right side (circle one) (If <2mm, go to SET-
The formula for converting gap-at-rim to turns-of-
TING FINAL TENSION.)
correction is simply to divide the size of the gap by eight 43. [ ] If gap is seen at rim: Divide number in step
(if gap is measured in millimeters). For example, an 8mm 42 by eight and round answer to nearest
gap measured at the rim on the right side would be cor- quarter. This number is necessary turns of
rected by turning all the nipples on one side one whole correction for nipples.
turn (8÷8=1). If the wheel were in need of tightening, it Record here: ________ turn(s) of nipples
would require a whole turn on the right. If it were in need Before making the dish correction, determine the
of loosening, it would be a whole turn on the left. Whether wheel tension in order to know whether to tighten or
to tighten or to loosen all the nipples is determined by the loosen when correcting dish. The acceptable tension range
existing spoke tension. for a wheel is 80–120kgf, with ideal being about 100kgf.
Consider two more examples. There is a 5mm gap If the existing tension is anywhere under 90kgf, nipples
on the right side. Divide 5mm by eight and the answer should be tightened (unless the size of the correction is
is .625. Should the correction be 625 thousandths of a going to be a whole turn or more, in which case it should
turn on each nipple? No, too complicated. The number be split into a correction in which spokes on one side of
.625 is exactly halfway between .500 (one half) and .750 the wheel are tightened and the other side are loosened).
(three quarters). Quarter-turn increments are the small- If the tension is between 90–100kgf, loosen all the spokes
est ones that should be used when adjusting nipples to on one side by half the necessary correction and tighten
correct dish. What should you do in this example, one all the spokes on the other side by half the necessary cor-
half turn or three quarter turns? Be conservative and err rection. If the existing tension is anywhere over 100kgf,
on the side of caution by going with one half turn. On loosen nipples for the dish correction.
the other hand, if you divided the gap by eight and got
17 – 17
44. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right- 51. [ ] Check with dish tool for size of gap at rim
side spokes (left on front disc), record read- again. If gap is ≤2mm go to SETTING FINAL
ings in following blanks, and total. TENSION. If >2mm, repeat steps 38–51.
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____
SETTING FINAL TENSION
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______ Even after all this, the wheel’s average tension might
45. [ ] Divide step 44 total by 10 ÷10 still be too low, or it might be too high. The tension is
Average reading is: =_______ important because low tension causes premature spoke
46. Look up average reading on tensiometer chart fatigue and unstable true. High tension causes fatigue
and read across to column for spoke gauge cracks in the rim and increases the likelihood of a com-
used on wheel. Decide whether tension is:
plete wheel collapse.
(check one choice)
[ ] <80kgf & step 43 is ≤1(tighten nipples)
The acceptable tension range for conventional wheels
[ ] 80–100kgf or step 43 is >1 (split, one is very broad, about 80–120kgf. Some rim and wheel man-
side tighten, other side loosen) ufacturers make specific tension recommendations. The
[ ] >100kgf (loosen nipples) general conditions that lead to a need for setting spoke
47. Based on step 46, dish correction should be: tension in the lower half of the range (80–100kgf) are:
[ ] Tighten nipples Front wheels
[ ] Split, loosen one side and tighten other Lightweight rider
[ ] Loosen nipples Extreme lightweight rims
In step #48, one of three choices will be checked, then Poor nipple condition
the blank in the checked choice should be filled in. Check The general conditions that lead to a need for
the same choice as was checked in step #47 (for example, setting spoke tension in the higher half of the range
if “[ ] Tighten...” was checked in step #47, check “[ ] (100–120kgf) are:
Tighten...” in step #48). The blank in the checked choice Rear wheels with pronounced dish
should be filled in with the value that was calculated in step Heavyweight riders
#43. After checking off a choice and filling in the blank, Extreme heavy-duty usage
circle the notation left or right in the checked choice in Table 17-2 includes several manufacturers’ tension
step #48. Wherever the option checked is “tighten,” circle recommendations.
the left or right choice to match whether Left side or
Right side was circled in step #42. Wherever the option
TENSION RECOMMENDATIONS (table 17-2)
checked is “loosen,” circle the left or right choice to be Wheel brand: Model Tension range (location)
the opposite of whether Left side or Right side was Campagnolo: Eurus 60–80kgf (front)
circled in step #42. 95–113 (rear right)
48. Check one of following choices, based on Campagnolo: 60–70kgf (front)
whether to tighten, split, or loosen spokes Hyperon, Neutron, 120–140kgf (rear right)
(determined in step 47). If tightening, Proton
always tighten on same side of wheel as Campagnolo: Scirocco 60–80kgf (front)
gap was found at rim; if loosening, always 85–105kgf (rear right)
loosen on opposite side of wheel from
Campagnolo: Zonda 70–85kgf (front1)
where gap was found at rim (determined in
90–110kgf (rear right)
step 42). Fill in blank in checked option with
amount calculated in step 43: Mavic: all wheels 90–110kgf (front)
[ ] Tighten on left right (circle one) 90–110kgf (rear right)
by ________ turns of nipples. Shimano: 16-spoke 100–120kgf (front)
[ ] Split, loosen on left right (circle one) 107–130kgf (rear right)
by ________ turns of nipples 1
Front wheel has radial spokes alternating with
and tighten on left right (circle one) tangential spokes that consistently alternate
by ________ turns of nipples. higher tensions (radial spokes) and lower tensions
[ ] Loosen on left right (circle one) (tangential spokes) with a 15kgf difference.
by ________ turns of nipples.
49. [ ] Perform correction described in step 48, Wheels with a deep-V rim cross-section and low
turning nipples as uniformly as possible. spoke count (under 28 spokes on a wheel in the 700C or
50. [ ] Check and correct lateral errors until largest 26" size ranges) generally require high tensions. Always
gap is <.5mm.
17 – 18
pursue recommendations from the rim or wheel manu- of correction is recommended for the right-side and left-
facturer for these types of wheels. In the absence of the side spokes; due to the flatter angle on right-side rear-wheel
availability of such recommendations, tighten rear-wheel spokes, the rim tends to respond less to the correction on
right-side spokes to 120–130 kgf. This may still be low for that side. If this is ignored, then the rim tends to lose its
some of these wheels, but using higher tensions than this dish adjustment as the tension is increased. The compen-
without specific manufacturer recommendations puts the sation for this recommended in table 17-3 is approximate.
mechanic in the position of assuming the risk of sudden The accuracy of the compensation is affected by how close
catastrophic wheel failure. Tensions lower than ideal only the wheel is to perfect dish before adding the tension and
risk premature spoke breakage. by how flat the right-side spoke angle is when the wheel is
52. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right- correctly dished.
side spokes (left on front disc), record read- 55. [ ] Find kgf value in table 17-3 and record cor-
ings in following blanks, and total. responding correction here:
Left-side turns Right-side turns
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ _______________ _______________
56. [ ] Perform adjustment indicated in step 55 on
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______ all nipples.
53. [ ] Divide step 52 total by 10 ÷10 57. [ ] Check and adjust lateral error until largest
Average reading is: =_______ gap is <.5mm.
54. [ ] Look up average reading on tension-meter 58. [ ] Check and correct dish error as described in
chart and read across to column for spoke steps 38 through 51, if gap at rim is >2mm.
gauge used on wheel. 59. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right-
Write approximate kgf here: ________kgf side spokes (left on front disc), record read-
Table 17-3 provides general guidelines for the size ings in following blanks, and total.
of the tension correction needed to arrive close to the
target tension of 95–120kgf. It is not unusual to make the _____+_____+_____+_____+_____
recommended correction from table 17-3 and still need
an additional small correction (either way). _____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______
60. [ ] Divide step 59 total by 10 ÷10
Table 17-2 (page 17-18) includes manufacturer-specific
Average reading is: =_______
tension guidelines that should supersede the generic ten- 61. [ ] Look up average reading on tension-meter
sion guidelines of this chapter. chart and read across to column for spoke
FRONT-WHEEL TENSION CORRECTIONS (table 17-3a) gauge used on wheel.
KGF Value Tighten all nipples Write approximate kgf here: ________kgf
62. [ ] Find kgf value in table 17-3 and record cor-
not on chart 11⁄4 turn (all spokes)
responding correction here:
<55 1 turn (all spokes) Left-side turns Right-side turns
55–79 3⁄4 turn (all spokes) _______________ _______________
80–89 1⁄2 turn (all spokes) 63. [ ] Perform adjustment indicated in step 62 on
all nipples.
90–94 1⁄4 turn (all spokes)
64. [ ] Check and adjust lateral error until largest
95–120 finished setting tension gap is <.5mm.
>120 LOOSEN 1⁄4 turn (all spokes) 65. [ ] Check and correct dish error as in described
steps 38 through 51, if gap at rim is >2mm.
REAR-WHEEL TENSION CORRECTIONS (table 17-3b) 66. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right-
KGF Value Tighten left nipples Tighten right nipples side spokes (left on front disc) record read-
<55 3⁄4 turn 11⁄4 turn ings in following blanks, and total.
55–74 1⁄2 turn 1 turn _____+_____+_____+_____+_____
75–84 1⁄2 turn 3⁄4 turn
85–94 1⁄4 turn (all spokes) _____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______
95–120 finished setting tension 67. [ ] Divide step 66 total by 10 ÷10
Average reading is: =_______
>120 LOOSEN 1⁄4 turn (all spokes)
68. [ ] Look up average reading on tension-meter
Note that when a tension correction in excess of one chart and read across to column for spoke
gauge used on wheel.
half turn is recommended for a rear wheel, a different size
Write approximate kgf here: ________kgf
17 – 19
69. [ ] Find kgf value in table 17-3 and record cor- overall tension is near its upper limit and/or the
responding correction here: spoke and nipple quality is low.
Left-side turns Right-side turns High-tension spokes twist (called wind-up) more
_______________ _______________ while truing the wheel and lead to more work
when stressing the wheel to eliminate wind-up.
all nipples.
Low-tension:
71. [ ] Check and adjust lateral error until largest
gap is <.5mm. Low-tension spokes fatigue more quickly because
72. [ ] Check and correct dish error as described in they tend to go slack when they are at the bottom
steps 38 through 51, if gap at rim is >2mm. of the loaded wheel, leading to a “snap” effect
73. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive right- when they return to tension.
side spokes (left on front disc) record read- Low-tension spokes are more likely to have their
ings in following blanks, and total. nipples unwind, leading to loss of true.
Low-tension spokes limit the potential to true
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ errors by loosening spokes. This is particularly
true when working with the left side of a rear
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______
wheel with exaggerated dish.
74. [ ] Divide step 73 total by 10 ÷10
Average reading is: =_______ The tension-balancing process is a good diagnostic tool.
75. [ ] Look up average reading on tension-meter During the process, a normal wheel will have some spokes
chart and read across to column for spoke that have a high tension and others that have low tension.
gauge used on wheel. If the wheel is not damaged, these high- and low-tension
Write approximate kgf here: ________kgf spokes will virtually always be present as adjacent pairs. The
76. [ ] Find kgf value in table 17-3 and record cor- process of correction is to find a high and a low spoke that
responding correction here: are adjacent and adjust one down and the other up. When
Left-side turns Right-side turns many consecutive high-tension spokes are found (and the
_______________ _______________
wheel is true) it indicates rim damage. The same is true when
there are multiple consecutive low-tension spokes.
all nipples.
78. [ ] Check and adjust lateral error until largest Three procedure alternatives
gap is <.5mm. There are three ways to tension-balance wheels.
79. [ ] Check and correct dish error as described in The first method, preventative balancing, is informal and
steps 38 through 51, if gap at rim is >2mm.
imprecise but reasonably effective. It is incorporated into
80. [ ] Repeat steps 73 through 79 as many times
as necessary until tension is 95–120kgf.
the lateral-true procedure described earlier. All it consists
of is checking two adjacent spokes for relative tension
when deciding which one of them to use to correct a
TENSION-BALANCING SPOKES lateral error.
The second method, reading balancing, has a detailed
Theory procedure starting with step #81 (page 17-22). With this
In taking the readings to determine the tension aver-
method, an average reading based on all the spokes on
age, it will probably be observed that the spokes on one
one side of the wheel is determined and a simple math-
side of the wheel vary wildly in tension. Variations in
ematical formula is applied to the average to determine
readings are within acceptable limits if they vary by the
the acceptable reading range. Spokes outside the range
equivalent of ±20kgf and would be considered excellent
are then adjusted. This method works well on spokes of
at the equivalent of ±10kgf.
common thickness in wheels that are near a 100kgf aver-
When spoke tension needs balancing, there will be
age but is less applicable to wheels with very thin spokes
excessively tight spokes and excessively loose spokes. Both
or very low or high average tensions.
conditions cause problems.
The third method, precision balancing, is described at the
High-tension:
end of the whole wheel-truing process under the heading
High-tension spokes cause localized stress at the
PRECISION TENSION BALANCING (page 17-26) . This method
rim at each nipple hole, which can lead to rim
is the most precise but is very time consuming and has some
failure.
complicated mathematical procedures. This method is the
High-tension spokes are much more likely to lead
best one to use if the spokes are a thin gauge or the tensions
to nipple failure (rounded wrench flats) than
are near the limits of the acceptable range.
spokes under normal tension, particularly if the
17 – 20
Reading balancing with a Wheelsmith This discrepancy is why the alternate precision tension-bal-
ancing method involves so much math. Using the precision
Tensiometer tension-balancing method would determine an acceptable
Steps #85–#89 and #103–#107 use the reading balancing
reading range of 57.5–67.5 for the same wheel at 75kgf.
method of determining the acceptable range. This method
This reading range would result in something much closer
is only suitable if a Wheelsmith Tensiometer is being used
to ±10kgf recommendation.
and the average tension is 80–100kgf. The reason for this
If the plus-3/minus-3 reading balance method is used
tension limitation is that there is not a direct linear com-
when tensions are outside the 80–100kgf range, it is quite
parison between reading values and kgf values on the ten-
likely that time will be spent trying to balance spokes that
sion-meter chart. If the tension is 80–100kgf, then reading
are acceptable or some spokes that need balancing will
balancing can be done by adding and subtracting 3 from
not be balanced.
the average reading and rounding the result to the nearest
Following are some examples that show that using
increment of 2.5 (plus-3/minus-3 method).
the plus-3/minus-3 reading balancing method will create an
For example, consider a wheel with 2.0mm spokes and
acceptable reading range that will be either 5 or 7.5. To
an average tension reading of 72. Using the plus-3/minus-
calculate the acceptable reading range, add and subtract 3
3 method of determining the acceptable-reading range,
from the average reading to determine the minimum and
the result would be a reading range of 70 to 75. Looking
maximum acceptable readings. Round these two answers
these values up on the example tension-meter chart on
to the nearest 2.5 reading increment value. The two num-
page 17-10, a tension range of 89–104kgf is determined.
bers that result from the rounding are the minimum and
The average reading of 72 equals 95kgf; the tension range
maximum acceptable readings and should range from 5
of 89–104kgf is well within the recommended ±10kgf
to 7.5 reading units.
range of the 95kgf average.
For example, if the average reading is 70.2:
If the average tension is above 100kgf, the plus-3/minus-
70.2 + 3 = 73.2 (round to 72.5)
3 method will create a tension range that is too wide to
70.2 – 3 = 67.2 (round to 67.5)
achieve the desired properties of rim durability and true
See in this example that the average reading is close
stability (unacceptable spoke tensions will be left alone). If
to halfway between the minimum and maximum readings
on the same wheel with 2.0mm spokes the spoke tension
(2.3 below 72.5 and 2.7 above 67.5). The resulting accept-
averaged 110kgf, the average reading would be 76.25. Using
able reading range is 5 reading units.
the plus-3/minus-3 method of determining the acceptable
For another example, if the average reading is 71.3:
reading range, the result would be a reading range of 72.5–80.
71.3 + 3 = 74.3 (round to 75)
Looking these readings up on the same chart, it is apparent
71.3 – 3 = 68.3 (round to 67.5)
that a tension range of 96.5–127kgf results. This range is
See in this second example that the average reading
–13.5kgf to +17kgf of the 110kgf average tension for this
is close to halfway between the minimum and maximum
wheel. This is well outside of the recommended ±10kgf
readings (3.7 below 75 and 3.8 above 67.5). The resulting
range. This discrepancy is why the alternate precision tension-
acceptable reading range is 7.5 reading units. Had a 5-
balancing method involves so much math. Using the precision
unit reading range been used in this case (70 to 75), then
tension-balancing method would determine an acceptable
the average would not be close to halfway between the
reading range of 72.5–77.5 for the same wheel at 110kgf.
minimum and maximum readings, making the mechanical
This reading range would result in something much closer
process of correcting the unbalanced pairs more chal-
to ±10kgf recommendation.
lenging.
If the average tension is below 80kgf, the plus-3/minus-
This method, in summary, requires picking an accept-
3 method will create an unacceptable tension range that
able reading range that has the average reading close to
is too narrow (spokes with acceptable tensions will be
halfway between the minimum and maximum readings.
adjusted unnecessarily). If on the same wheel with 2.0mm
Ideally this range would be 5, but if necessary it would
spokes the spoke tension averaged 75kgf, the average read-
be 7.5. Any reading range (when using a Wheelsmith
ing would be 63.9. Using the plus-3/minus-3 method of
Tensiometer) of 10 or more would usually be consider-
determining the acceptable reading range, the result would
ably more than a ±10kgf range and in some cases more
be a reading range of 60.0–67.5. Looking these readings
than ±20kgf.
up on the same chart, it is apparent that a tension range
of 68–83kgf results (–7kgf/+8kgf of the 75kgf average
tension). This is well within the recommended ±10kgf
range; spokes within this range are pointless to balance.
17 – 21
Determine right-side acceptable 83. [ ] Divide by number of readings:

84. [ ] Right-side average reading is:
÷____
=_________
reading range NOTE: For a more precise alternative for deter-
The following procedure only applies if using a mining the minimum and maximum readings
Wheelsmith Tensiometer. than the method in steps 85–89, use steps
NOTE: If not tension balancing the wheel, go to 1–37 of the PRECISION TENSION BALANCING proce-
step 117. dure.
81. [ ] Measure tension of all spokes on right side 85. [ ] Range reduction: –3
of wheel and record readings on right face 86. [ ] Right-side MINIMUM READING: =_________
of rim adjacent to each spoke. 87. [ ] Repeat step 84: _________
82. [ ] Add all right-side readings together 88. [ ] Range increase: +3
and record right-side total here: _________ 89. [ ] Right-side MAXIMUM READING: =_________
(65
5 A 80)
62.
D
A
)
.5
72
B
67
.5
.5
B
(77
82.
E
5
72.5)
72.5
C
5
57.
67.
5
C F
0
65
(8
F
Reading average: 70.4 65
Minimum acceptable: 67.5
70
Maximum acceptable: 72.5 67.5
17.19 This rim has been marked with tension readings for all the spokes on this side. Pairs suitable for balancing
are bracketed. See the above text for a detailed explanation.
17 – 22
Examine the tension markings on the rim for sets of
“high/low” spokes. A high/low set would be two consecu- A A A
tive spokes at the rim from the same flange in which one
spoke was higher than the acceptable reading range calcu- ? turns
lated and the other was either unacceptably low or in the 77.5 Smallest 77.5 77.5
75.0B
low side of the acceptable range. Or, it could be one spoke B visible B Restore
that was unacceptably low and the adjacent spoke was in gap Contact gap
the high side of the acceptable range. Mark these pairs by

drawing bracket marks on the face of the rim that include
the pair of high/low-tension readings. C C C
It is possible to find isolated single spokes that are high

1/4 turn
or low tension, and there are no apparent spokes next to 67.5
them to balance with the high- or low-tension spoke. These 65.0 65.0 65.0
isolated unbalanced spokes indicate either a truing error in D D D
the wheel at that point or a defect or damage point in the Step 1 Step 2 Step 3
rim. If it is a new rim that is precisely trued, this might be
grounds for seeking warranty satisfaction.
E E E
If the wheel is true and there are multiple consecutive
high-tension or low-tension spokes, it is a sure sign of
rim damage.
In figure 17.19 (page 17-22), a wheel has had the
F F F
tension readings written on the face of the rim and pairs
(marked A, B, and C) have been selected for balancing. The
reading marked D is an isolated low-tension spoke that 17.20 In this example, spokes B and D need to be bal-
anced. Step 1) Eliminate the left true indicator and set
cannot be balanced. The reading marked E is an isolated the right true indicator to the smallest visible gap. Step
high-tension spoke that cannot be balanced. The group 2) Turn nipple D 1/4 turn counterclockwise. The indica-
marked F is a group of consecutive low-tension spokes tor should contact. Step 3) Turn nipple B clockwise just
that indicate a rim defect if both the lateral and radial true until the original gap is restored, then mark new tensions
for spokes B and D.
are good at that point.
92. [ ] Cancel out lateral-true indicator on left side
Correcting right-side tension-balance of wheel.
errors 93. [ ] Set right-side indicator to just barely clear
A high/low pair of adjacent, same-side spokes can be rim at point halfway between spokes being
balanced because the spokes have overlapping zones of balanced.
influence on the rim. Two adjacent spokes on the same side 94. [ ] Tighten looser of two spokes being balanced
1/4 turn. Observe clearance at point halfway
of the wheel both influence the lateral true at the halfway
between spokes disappear.
point between the spokes. If a lateral-true indicator on the
95. [ ] Loosen tighter of two spokes being balanced
truing stand is set to almost contact the rim at this halfway just enough to restore initial clearance set
point, and the low-tension spoke on one side of the true at point halfway between two spokes being
indicator is tightened a quarter turn, then when the high- balanced.
tension spoke on the other side is loosened the true can 96. [ ] Measure new tensions on spokes being bal-
be restored at the halfway point. Tension of both spokes anced and repeat steps 93–95 if necessary.
has been maintained, and the lateral true halfway between Even though true has been maintained at the point half-
them has been maintained. See figure 17.20 for graphic way between the spokes, there is a chance that the true has
examples of how to tension balance a pair of spokes. been lost just outside the zone between the two spokes.
90. [ ] Bracket pairs of spokes on wheel that need Check to see if more than one spoke might potentially
balancing. be used to correct the lateral error. Remember, depending
91. [ ] Select pair to balance. on the lateral stiffness of the rim, each spoke can affect
an area 3–5" in each direction. The spoke that will be used
to correct the lateral error will be on the same side of the
rim as the ones that are being tension balanced.
17 – 23
To correct the lateral error that has developed, choose 105. [ ] Repeat step 102: _________
whichever spoke has the most appropriate tension level 106. [ ] Range increase: +3
to allow further loosening or tightening, as the case may 107. [ ] Left-side MAXIMUM READING: =_________
be. See the illustration below. Correcting left-side errors
108. [ ] Bracket pairs of spokes on wheel that need
A Y balancing.
Tighten to 109. [ ] Select pair to balance.
reduce gap 110. [ ] Cancel out lateral-true indicator on right side
77.5 70.0
of wheel.
75.0B Z 111. [ ] Set left-side indicator to just barely clear rim at
Large
gap point halfway between spokes being balanced.
112. [ ] Tighten looser of two spokes being balanced
1/4 turn. Observe clearance at point halfway
between spokes disappear.
C A
113. [ ] Loosen tighter of two spokes being bal-
anced just enough to restore initial clear-
67.5
ance set at point halfway between two
65.0 77.5 spokes being balanced.
D 75.0 B 114. [ ] Measure new tensions on spokes being bal-
Contact anced and repeat steps 111–113 if necessary.
115. [ ] Once both spokes have tension in
acceptable range, check true just outside of
E C balance zone on both sides. Correct true by
finding closest spoke with suitable tension
Loosen until that will affect lateral in area in need.
gap is restored
67.5 116. [ ] Repeat steps 109–115 for all other pairs
72.5 65.0 bracketed on left side of wheel.
F D
Condition 1 Condition 2
17.21 Condition 1: When lateral true is checked at E STABILIZING THE TRUE
after balancing B and D, a contact is found at E. Since F While the nipples were being tightened, some of the
is tighter than D, loosen F to eliminate the contact.
spokes have been turning with them (wind-up). When the
Condition 2: When lateral true is checked at A after bal-
ancing B and D, an excessive gap is found. Since Z is bike is ridden, the spokes will all unload temporarily and
looser than B, tighten Z to fix the gap. will unwind to varying degrees. The unloading effects the
97. [ ] Once both spokes have tension in lateral true. The common signal that this is happening is
acceptable range, check true just outside of one or several sounds coming from the wheel when it is
balance zone on both sides. Correct true by first ridden after truing, which then go away.
finding closest spoke with suitable tension There are several techniques for stabilizing wheel true.
that will affect lateral in area in need. Two are safe but ineffective, one is safe and effective but
98. [ ] Repeat steps 91–97 for all other pairs brack- inefficient, and one is risky but effective and efficient.
eted on right side of wheel. One safe and ineffective technique is often seen in
Left-side acceptable reading range books. It consists of slightly over-tightening a nipple and
99. [ ] Measure tension of all spokes on left side of then backing off some. Although this technique works in
wheel and record readings on left face of rim principle, there is no correct amount of over-tightening
adjacent to each spoke. and backing off that works every time.
100. [ ] Add all left-side readings together The other safe but ineffective method is to squeeze paral-
and record left-side total here: _________ lel pairs of spokes on each side of the wheel once the truing
101. [ ] Divide by number of readings: ÷____ is completed. After using this method, spokes still ping on
102. [ ] Left-side average reading is: =_________ the first test ride, and the wheel still goes out of true.
103. [ ] Range reduction: –3
A safe, effective, and inefficient method is to simply
NOTE: For a more precise alternative for deter-
mining the minimum and maximum readings, test-ride the wheel after truing it. Follow this up with
use steps 1–37 of the PRECISION TENSION BAL- another ride and another re-true if necessary. Then
ANCING procedure. another, if necessary. It could take up to three or four
104. [ ] Left-side MINIMUM READING: =_________ cycles of installing the wheel on the bike, riding, remov-
17 – 24
ing the wheel, and re-truing before the true is stabilized. the lower flange, and a finger should wrap around the outside
Another version of this is to put some sort of vertical of the rim and touch the lower-flange spoke. This finger is
load on the wheel at the axle or at the top of the rim. critical because it is used to feel for any twitch in the spoke
Experimentation with this shows that it is only partially that indicates the side-load level is enough (see figure 17.22).
effective. The wheel will still ping and go out of true With elbows locked, shove gently down on the rim and be
some once ridden. sensitive to the ping sound, a spoke twitch, or the feeling of
The risky but effective technique is to side load the the rim deflecting. If nothing is felt, shove a little harder. If
wheel. The wheel is supported at the axle and pressed down the rim seems to suddenly give way, break loose the locked
simultaneously at two points 180° apart at the rim. This is elbows immediately.
done repeatedly on both sides of the wheel until all the 117. [ ] Place wheel right-side down on low surface.
spokes have been momentarily relieved of tension. What 118. [ ] Position hands 180° apart on rim with hands
makes this effective is that the wheel has very little lateral centered over spokes coming from low flange
strength so it is easy to deflect the rim enough to successfully and fingers touching same spokes.
119. [ ] With locked elbows, gently shove against
unload a spoke. It is this very thing that makes this technique
rim until ping, spoke twitch, or rim flex is
risky. The lateral weakness of the wheel, combined with experienced. Increase effort if no sounds,
careless technique, can result in a collapsed wheel. twitch, or flex is encountered.
To safely side load a wheel, the tension must not be to 120. [ ] Move hands to adjacent spokes from lower
high. This technique should never be used when a tension flange and repeat step 119. Repeat until all
meter has not been used to confirm the average right-side spokes from lower flange have been unloaded.
tension is below 120kgf. Additionally, it is important to 121. [ ] Turn wheel over and repeat steps 118–120
use several forms of feedback to be able to tell when just for second side.
enough load has been applied. The feedback might be a 122. [ ] Check if lateral-true error exceeds maximum
noise from a spoke, a twitching sensation felt in a spoke, allowed.
or any sensation that the rim is deflecting. Whichever form Side loading eliminates spoke wind-up. Spoke wind-up
of feedback occurs first indicates that the wheel has been adequately was created by tightening nipples. If nipple tightening is used
loaded at that point! to eliminate lateral errors that appear after side loading, then
the wind-up will be reintroduced. Therefore, when correcting
these lateral errors, the best technique is to loosen a spoke that
5 is on the same side of the wheel as the lateral-true indicator
4 6
3 that is contacting the rim. For example: If the contact is on
7
the right side of the rim, loosen the right-side spoke that is
2 8 closest to the center of the contact. Loosening will not create
as much wind-up as tightening.
1 123. [ ] Correct lateral-true errors if necessary by
1
loosening spoke(s) at point of contact com-
ing from same side of hub as side that is
8 2 contacting. NOTE: Wheel will not stabilize if
3
spoke are tightened—all corrections must be
7
by loosening!
6 4
5 124. [ ] Repeat steps 117–123 repeatedly until
wheel remains within desired lateral tol-
erance. (When spokes are adjusted on one
17.22 To stress the wheel, center the balls of your side only, side loading need only be done
thumbs over two spokes from the bottom flange that are with that side down.)
180° apart. Reach from below to place a finger against
each spoke. Press firmly until you hear or feel a spoke Post-truing completion
unwind. Repeat for sets 2–8, then repeat on other side 125. [ ] Re-adjust hub as necessary. (Remember, a
of wheel.
properly adjusted quick-release, conventional-
The correct technique to side load the wheel is to place bearing hub has play when out of bike, which
it on a solid surface that is low enough to be able to lean over had to be eliminated to true wheel.)
it. Protect the surface from the axle by using a small block of 126. [ ] Reinstall tire, quick-release skewer, and
wood. Place a hand at the 3 o’clock position on the rim and a wheel in bike.
127. [ ] Clean rim of any oily residues left over from
hand at the 9 o’clock position on the rim. At both positions,
truing process.
the hand should be centered over a spoke that comes from
17 – 25
PRECISION TENSION 3. [ ] Closest reading value >A from

tension-meter chart reading line: ______ C
BALANCING 4. [ ] Kgf value equal to B from
tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ D
Precision balancing is a more precise way to determine
5. [ ] Kgf value equal to C from
the acceptable tension-reading range for a given side of a
tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ E
wheel. This procedure is an alternative to steps #85–89 or
6. [ ] A – B = F ______ – ______ = ______ F
#103–107 (pages 17-22 and 17-24) of the TRUING WHEELS
7. [ ] E – D = G ______ – ______ = ______ G
WITH UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure.
8. [ ] F × G = H ______ × ______ = ______ H
This procedure is preferred if limitations of the wheel require
9. [ ] C – B = I ______ – ______ = ______ I
that the average tension be outside the recommended 80– 10. [ ] H ÷ I = J ______ ÷ ______ = ______ J
100kgf range or if more precision is desired. For most wheels, 11. [ ] D + J = K ______ + ______ = ______ K
the reading-balancing method is adequate. The precision tension- Steps #6 through #11 can be expressed algebraically,
balancing method requires more time and more math. which is easier for someone familiar with algebra. The
The precision tension-balancing process consists of four formula is:
basic steps. Each step is a mathematical calculation. The (A–B) × (E–D)
first step is to convert the average reading from the wheel +D=K
(C–B)
into an exact tension average. Because the tension-meter
chart has relatively large jumps between values in the read- Determining the acceptable tension
ing column, when the average reading falls between two range for tension balancing
readings that appear on the chart, a mathematical process Now that the precise average spoke tension has been
called “interpolation” is needed to determine the tension determined, a simple process is used to determine the
value that is equivalent to the average reading . The second acceptable tension range.
step is to determine an acceptable tension range for the 12. [ ] Maximum tension in kgf (M)
wheel. This is accomplished by adding 10 to the aver- K + 10 = M ______ + ______ = ______M
age tension to determine that maximum tension and by 13. [ ] Minimum tension in kgf (L)
subtracting 10 from the average tension to determine the K – 10 = L ______ – ______ = ______ L
minimum tension. The last two steps of the process use Determining a tension reading equal to M
the process of interpolation to convert the maximum and Steps #14 through #24 convert the maximum
minimum acceptable tensions to minimum and maximum acceptable tension (M) from step #12 into an equivalent
acceptable reading values. Once the process of calculating tension-meter reading (X) for the tension meter in use.
the minimum and maximum acceptable reading values is 14. [ ] Maximum tension for this side: ______M
completed, then the wheel can be reviewed for spokes 15. [ ] Closest kgf value <M from
that fall outside the acceptable range. tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ N
The maximum reading value (X), determined in the 16. [ ] Closest kgf value >M from
following process, can be used in steps #89 or #107 tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ P
(pages 17-22 and 17-24), and the minimum reading value 17. [ ] Reading value equal to N from
(y), determined in the following process, can be used in tension-meter chart reading line: ______ Q
18. [ ] Reading value equal to P from
steps #86 or #104 (pages 17-22 and 17-24) of the TRUING
tension-meter chart reading line: ______ R
WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES
19. [ ] M – N = S ______ – ______ = ______ S
worksheet. Step #1 gets its value from step #84 or #102
20. [ ] R – Q = T ______ – ______ = ______ T
(pages 17-22 and 17-24) of the TRUING WHEELS WITH 21. [ ] S × T = U ______ × ______ = ______ U
UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES worksheet. 22. [ ] P – N = V ______ – ______ = ______ V
Determining exact tension 23. [ ] U ÷ V = W ______ ÷ ______ = ______ W
24. [ ] W + Q = X ______ + ______ = ______ X
from average reading Steps #19 through #24 can be expressed algebraically,
By means of mathematical interpolation, steps #1
which is easier for someone familiar with algebra. The
through #11 convert the average reading from the tension
formula is:
meter into a precise average tension (K).
1. [ ] Average of readings from one side (M–N) × (R–Q)
+Q=X
(from step 84 or 102): ______ A (P–N)
2. [ ] Closest reading value <A from In the next step, the exact value of X needs to be
tension-meter chart reading line: ______ B rounded to a number that can actually be read from the
17 – 26
tension meter. The finest increments recommended earlier AND NIPPLES worksheet. Transfer the value to step #86
for reading a Wheelsmith Tensiometer are 0, 2.5, 5, and (page 17-22) of the wheel-truing worksheet (if tension
7.5. Here are some examples. balancing the right side of wheel) or to step #104 (page
Round anything from 58.8–61.2 to 60.0 17-24) of the wheel-truing worksheet (if tension balancing
Round anything from 61.3–63.7 to 62.5 the left side of wheel).
Round anything from 63.8–66.2 to 65.0 37. [ ] Round y to nearest reading ending in 0, 2.5,
Round anything from 66.3–68.7 to 67.5 5, or 7.5 and record here:
The value determined in step #25 (page 17-15) is used MINIMUM READING is: ________
in the TRUING WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES,
AND NIPPLES worksheet. Transfer the value to step #89
(page 17-22) of the wheel-truing worksheet (if tension
balancing the right side of wheel) or to step #107 (page TRUING WHEELS WITH
17-24) of the wheel-truing worksheet (if tension balancing
the left side of wheel).
BROKEN SPOKES OR
25. [ ] Round X to nearest reading ending in 0, 2.5,
5, or 7.5 and record here:
DAMAGED NIPPLES
MAXIMUM READING is: ________ Most of repairing a wheel with a damaged nipple or
broken spoke is the same as truing an undamaged wheel.
Determining a tension reading equal to L The main differences are that it is necessary to determine
Steps #26 through #36 convert the minimum the spoke length for a replacement spoke, and it is nec-
acceptable tension (L) from step #13 into an equivalent essary to determine the spoke gauge for a replacement
tension-meter reading (y) for the tension meter in use. nipple. There can also be a little bit of a problem removing
26. [ ] Minimum tension for this side: ______ L the damaged nipple.
27. [ ] Closest kgf value <L from
tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ n Preparations and inspections
28. [ ] Closest kgf value >L from 1. [ ] Do steps 1–7 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
tension-meter chart kgf line: ______ p UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES OR NIPPLES procedure.
29. [ ] Reading value equal to n from 2. [ ] Remove rim strip from rim.
tension-meter chart reading line: ______ q 3. [ ] Rear wheels only, remove freehub cogs or
30. [ ] Reading value equal to p from freewheel.
tension-meter chart reading line: ______ r
31. [ ] L – n = s ______ – ______ = ______ s
Determining correct spoke length
32. [ ] r – q = t ______ – ______ = ______ t if replacing spoke
33. [ ] s × t = u ______ × ______ = ______ u The spoke length can be calculated using various
34. [ ] p – n = v ______ – ______ = ______ v spoke-length programs or tables; when replacing a spoke,
35. [ ] u ÷ v = w ______ ÷ ______ = ______ w the simplest way to determine the correct length is to
36. [ ] w + q = y ______ + ______ = ______ y measure an existing spoke in the wheel. It will not be a
Steps #31 through #36 can be expressed algebraically, precise measurement, but it will be adequate. Measure
which is easier for someone familiar with algebra. The with a metric tape measure.
formula is: The proper way to measure a spoke that is installed in
(L–n) × (r–q) the wheel is to measure from the base of the nipple (where
+q=y the nipple comes out of the rim) to edge of the spoke hole
(p–n)
In the next step, the exact value of y needs to be in the hub flange (the edge that is closest to the center of
rounded to a number that can actually be read from the the wheel). These measuring points are shown in figure
tension meter. The finest increments recommended earlier 17.23 (page 17-28). This is easiest to do by measuring a
for reading a Wheelsmith Tensiometer are 0, 2.5, 5, and spoke that has its head on the inside of the hub flange;
7.5. Here are some examples. otherwise the spoke head covers the hole. On rear wheels,
Round anything from 68.8–71.2 to 70.0 left and right spokes can be different lengths, so measure
Round anything from 71.3–73.7 to 72.5 on the side of the wheel that needs the spoke replaced.
Round anything from 73.8–76.2 to 75.0
Round anything from 76.3–78.7 to 77.5
The value determined in step #37 (page 17-15) is used
in the TRUING WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES,
17 – 27
out. Note which side of the flange the spoke head is on,
then install the new spoke so that the spoke head ends up
on the same side of the flange.
Look at the hub flange and see that the spokes alter-
nate having their heads to the inside and to the outside
of the flange.
If the new spoke is going to be a “head-out” spoke,
after starting the new spoke through the hole in the cor-
rect direction, it may be necessary to flex it away from the
hub when it gets to the other flange so that it will come
out the opposite side of the wheel just beyond the crotch
of two spokes in the opposite flange. If the spoke bows
while doing this, it is not a problem.
A “head-in” spoke can just be laid out flat once it is
pushed all the way into the flange.
Spokes will need to be bowed slightly to weave them
past the other spokes and into their final position. Note
that each spoke crosses several others in its path from the
hub to the rim. Typically “head-in” spokes cross under the
last spoke on the way to the rim and “head-out” spokes
cross over the last spoke on the way to the rim. Just follow
the pattern of the other spokes.
6. [ ] Remove broken spoke(s).
7. [ ] Put new spoke(s) in and thread on nipple(s)
17.23 Measuring a spoke in the wheel. without tightening.
4. [ ] Measure length of an installed spoke on Removing and replacing a damaged
same side of wheel as replacing spoke. Mea-
sure from inside face of rim to far edge of
nipple
spoke hole in flange and write number here:
Nipples are damaged from being over-tightened or
___________mm from a misfit wrench being used. Sometimes they round
off while being tightened and can still be turned the oppo-
Determining the correct spoke gauge site way to loosen them. Sometimes they must be grasped
if replacing a nipple or spoke with pliers or vise-grip pliers to break them loose. Try
In step #7 from the TRUING WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED using a Park SW-10 nipple wrench instead. If the SW-10
RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure, the spoke gauge at slips, use a file to increase the flats on the nipple. Once
the midpoint was measured so that the information could the spoke is getting slack, it’s all right to cut the spoke.
be used later to determine spoke tension. If the spoke is Often the threads of the spoke are also damaged, and the
butted or aerodynamic, this measurement will not deter- spoke must be replaced.
mine the right gauge for the nipple or spoke. It is best to 8. [ ] Remove damaged nipple(s).
double check, anyway. Use the midpoint measurement and 9. [ ] Thread on new nipple(s) without tightening.
the following end measurement to get a replacement spoke Determining starting tension for the
of the correct gauge as well.
5. Use calipers or spoke ruler to measure diameter
replaced spoke or spoke with replaced
of spoke just before it enters nipple. Com- nipple
pare measurement to following and check When a nipple is removed or a spoke is broken, the
off one to indicate spoke gauge: wheel can go wildly out of true, and it can look like a lot
[ ] 2.6mm– 12 gauge more than one spoke will be involved in making the cor-
[ ] 2.3mm– 13 gauge rection. If the wheel was reasonably true to start with,
[ ] 2.0mm– 14 gauge before the spoke broke or damaged nipple was removed,
[ ] 1.8mm– 15 gauge
then all it will take to get it back to the same degree of
Removing and replacing a broken spoke true is to adjust the new spoke/nipple. The key to doing
The easiest way to remove a broken spoke is to cut it this is to determine the tension average on the side of
an inch from the hub flange and then work the remainder the wheel with the new spoke or nipple, then tighten the
17 – 28
new nipple/spoke to that tension. In the following steps, rect the rub are already looser than any other spokes on the
measure the tension of ten spokes on the side with the same side of the wheel.
new spoke or nipple (excluding the new spoke or spoke
with new nipple) and average the readings. Then tighten
the new spoke or spoke with new nipple to the average FIXING DINGS IN THE OUTER
reading. There is no need to use the tension-meter chart PERIMETER OF THE RIM
to convert readings to kilograms. Dings limited to the outer perimeter of the rim are only
10. [ ] Measure tension on ten consecutive spokes a problem if they cause the rim sidewall to bulge out at the
on side with new spoke/nipple and record point of the ding, and this is unusual with aluminum rims.
readings in following blanks.
In any case, a tool is made to fix these, and they are relatively
easy to fix as long as the dings are not severe.
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____
1. [ ] Do steps 1–21 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure.
_____+_____+_____+_____+_____ =_______
11. [ ] Divide step 10 total by 10 ÷10 The Bicycle Research RS1 Rim Saver is used to
Average reading is: =_______ squeeze in rim-sidewall bulges. This tool is a pair of pli-
12. [ ] Tighten new spoke/nipple to average reading ers with a wide jaw and a narrow jaw. The narrow jaw is
calculated in step 11. placed against the sidewall bulge, and the wide jaw is placed
13. [ ] Replace freewheel/freehub cogs. against the other side of the rim. Be careful to squeeze the
14. [ ] Do steps 8–127 from TRUING WHEELS WITH handles gently. Because no tool is made to spread the rim
UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES proce- back out, it is better to under-correct and need to repeat
dure (page 17-11). the attempt than to over-correct and make the rim too
narrow. To check whether the job is done, set a caliper to
the rim width on an undamaged section of rim and try to
TRUING WHEELS WITH slide the caliper past the damaged point. If it hangs up,
continue to squeeze the rim narrower.
DAMAGED RIMS 2. [ ] Use Bicycle Research RS1 to squeeze in any
sidewall bulges detected during step 13 or
The fundamental problem with repairing wheels with step 16 of TRUING WHEELS WITH UNDAMAGED
bends is that when metal bends, it elongates. Bending it RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure.
back will not shrink it again. Bending it back just elongates 3. [ ] Do steps 21–127 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
it more. What this implies is that once a rim is bent, it can UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure.
never be fully straightened. One big dent can be changed
into a series of small, less obvious dips and bumps but
cannot be eliminated. The more severe the bend is, the less
FIXING RADIAL BENDS
likelihood of a successful outcome. The more over-correct- IN THE BODY OF THE RIM
ing and re-correcting is done, the less likely the repair will Radial bends in the body of the rim are detected dur-
ever make it to a successful point. ing normal truing when the point is reached of correcting
Rim bends can be broken down into three categories. dips while truing radial. When correcting a dip (which is
These are dings in the outer perimeter of the rim, radial done by loosening spokes in the vicinity of the dip) and it
bends in the body of the rim, and lateral bends. Dings in is found that the spokes are already looser than any others
the outer perimeter of the rim can be identified by two in the wheel, a radial bend has been found.
characteristics. There is a lack of any apparent radial error To fix the problem, loosen the loose spokes even further,
in the inner perimeter of the rim, and there is no evidence support the rim on wood blocks, apply impact to the inner
of loose spokes at the point of the radial error. Radial bends perimeter of the rim, and then re-tighten the spokes. The
in the body of the rim can be identified by the fact that reason that spokes must be loosened first is that the rim needs
the very spokes that should be loosened to let out the dip to be moved past the point at which it will end. Before the rim
are already looser than all the other spokes in the wheel. was damaged, the loose spokes at the point of damage were
Lateral bends in the rim are identified by the fact that the probably tight. If the repair is attempted without loosening
very spokes that should be tightened to correct the rub are the spokes, there will be resistance from the spokes before
already tighter than any other spokes on their side of the the rim is moved far enough.
wheel, or the very spokes that should be loosened to cor- To set up the wheel for repair, first loosen the spokes
in the affected area at least five full turns each. Support
17 – 29
the rim just outside the flattened area on two soft blocks 1. [ ] Do steps 1–36 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
of wood, such as furring strips (1×2 boards). The blocks UNDAMAGED RIMS, SPOKES, AND NIPPLES procedure.
of wood should be in line with the rim, not perpendicular. 2. If at any time in step 33, spokes needing loos-
The repair will be done by striking the center of the bent ening seem too loose to start with, rim is bent.
[ ] Loosen all spokes in affected area until
section of rim with a rubber mallet.
nipples are almost off (at least 5 full turns).
After pushing out the rim, the spokes are tightened until
[ ] Place rim on wood blocks in line with rim,
the bump is eliminated. If they are at normal tension once with blocks just past end of dip.
the rim is round, the correction is done. If they are still loose, [ ] Strike inner perimeter of rim near center
additional correction is needed. If they end up over-tight, the of dip with rubber mallet.
bend has been over-corrected. There is no good solution to [ ] Put wheel in truing stand.
this except to live with the rim having a bump and the spokes [ ] Tighten spokes in affected area until
at that point being a little over-tight. bump is eliminated.
On paper this all sounds better than it actually works. It [ ] Measure tension on spokes in affected
is difficult to hit the rim with the correct force, and the rim area and compare to other spokes just out-
side affected area.
may bend in where it is supported on the blocks. A great deal
[ ] If tensions are low, loosen spokes again
of patience and skill with a rubber hammer is needed.
and repeat procedure.
[ ] If tensions are normal or high, con-
tinue from step 35 on TRUING WHEELS WITH
FIXING LATERAL BENDS

IN THE RIM
A lateral bend is identified when the spokes that
need tightening to correct a rub are already over-tight or
a spoke that needs loosening to correct a rub is already
very loose.
There is no more difficult wheel repair then repairing
a rim with a lateral bend. The rim needs to be unbent, and
the only way to do it is to hit it on something (or with
something) or stick the affected area in some sort of crack
and apply leverage to the wheel. How much force to use
can only be learned by trial and error. If putting the wheel
in some crack and applying leverage, finding the right crack
and figuring out how much rim to insert are a challenge.
If using impact, it is recommended to put the rim on two
wood blocks that support the rim just beyond the dam-
aged area, with the side of the wheel that the rim bends
to facing up. Next, cut a wood block that is just a little bit
shorter than the damaged area and rest it on top of the
rim on the damaged section. Strike the block on top of
the rim with a hammer (see figure 17.25, page 17-31).
Like when repairing a radial bend, it is important to
Loosen 5 full turns each
loosen the spokes on the side of the wheel where the
IMPACT
damage is so that the rim can be pushed easily past the
point at which it should end.
17.24 Fixing a radial bend.
17 – 30
IMPACT
Loosened
5 full turns
17.25 Fixing a lateral bend.

1. [ ] Do steps 1–17 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
2. [ ] When a lateral bend is detected while doing
step 17, mark all spokes that are loose. (If
none are obviously loose but on other side
of wheel there are obviously tight spokes,
mark all spokes on contact side of wheel
from tight spokes that are within zone of
tight spokes.)
3. [ ] Loosen nipples on all marked spokes exactly
five full turns.
4. [ ] Remove rim from truing stand.
5. [ ] Use three foot-long two-by-fours to support
the rim in following fashion. With the side
of the wheel with loosened spokes facing
up, put one two-by-four on its edge under
rim 180° away from loosened spokes. Put
other two-by-fours on their edges so that
they are just on either side of range of loos-
ened spokes and so that each two-by-four’s
full length supports rim.
6. [ ] Cut a short section of furring strip (one-by-two
board) to be slightly shorter than affected area
and place it on top of affected area.
7. [ ] Strike furring strip with hammer.
8. [ ] Put wheel in truing stand and check whether
rub in affected area has switched to
opposite side of wheel. (If not, repeat steps
4–8.)
9. [ ] Tighten spokes that were loosened exactly
five full turns and check how spoke ten-
sion in affected area compares to adjacent
spokes. If spokes that were loose are still
loose, repeat steps 3–9.
10. [ ] Continue at step 19 from TRUING WHEELS WITH
17 – 31
WHEEL TROUBLESHOOTING (table 17-4)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: A wheel fails to stay true for a reasonable time after truing but there is no evidence of a
damaged rim.
Wheel was not stabilized. Stabilize the true (see page 17-25, step 117).
Spoke tensions were too low. Re-true wheel and set tension average closer to
the maximum.
SYMPTOM: Spokes lose tension rapidly.
Spokes were not tightened well. Re-tighten spokes closer to maximum tension.
SYMPTOM: Wheel will not hold tension even when it was tensioned high to begin with.
Rim and/or spoke choice is too light. Rebuild with heavier components, or rebuild with
Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or DT Spoke Freeze.
SYMPTOM: Spokes are breaking at the bend or at the nipple.
Spokes are fatigued from age. Rebuild or replace wheel.
Spokes are too light gauge (particularly if wheel is Rebuild wheel with heavier spokes.
new and rider or usage can be described as heavy).
Tensions are too low. Rebuild wheel. (Low tension causes premature
fatigue of all spokes.)
SYMPTOM: Spokes are breaking in the middle.
Impact to spoke(s). Replace broken spokes.
Low tension if at interlace. Replace spoke, tighten spokes.
SYMPTOM: Butted spokes are breaking at the transition of one gauge to the other.
Low-quality spokes. Rebuild or replace wheel.
SYMPTOM: More than one spoke is broken at the flange or at the nipples, or a variety of nipple and/or
spoke types in the wheel indicate that spokes have broken in the past in addition to a single broken
spoke that is being dealt with now.
Spokes are generally fatigued. Rebuild or replace wheel.
SYMPTOM: A spoke breaks when accelerating hard, hitting a bump, or while truing the wheel.
Spokes are generally fatigued. Rebuild or replace wheel.
SYMPTOM: Dimples or bulges are found in the sidewall of the rim.
Tire compresses fully when the wheel hits bumps. Maintain full tire pressure and/or use a larger
cross-section tire.
SYMPTOM: Cracks are appearing in the rim sidewall; the rim sidewall is concave when it used to be
flat or convex; the rim beads are wider apart than they were originally.
Rim sidewall is being worn thin by brake pads. Replace rim immediately.
SYMPTOM: Cracks are appearing at the nipple holes in the rim.
Spoke tension too high. Replace rim immediately.
SYMPTOM: While truing a lateral deviation, the spoke that needs tightening is too tight, or the spoke
that needs loosening is too loose.
Rim has a lateral bend. Bend rim back or replace rim.
SYMPTOM: Rim has a lateral bend.
Excessive side loads have been applied to the rim Avoid excessive side loads and/or use a stronger rim.
through accident or abuse.
SYMPTOM: While eliminating a radial dip (flat spot), the spokes that need to be loosened are too
loose already.
Rim has a radial bend. Bend rim back or replace rim.
Continued
17 – 32
WHEEL TROUBLESHOOTING (table 17-4 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Rim has a radial bend (flat spot).
Impact to wheel. Maintain correct tire pressure and avoid road haz-
ards, or use larger cross-section of tire.
Rim is too light (particularly when bend occurs Use a heavier rim.
repeatedly and tire pressure has been maintained).
Spoke gauge is too heavy for a lightweight rim. Use light spokes with light rims.
SYMPTOM: Complete wheel collapse (hyperbolic parabola).
Over-tight spokes. Repair if possible, avoid over-tightening spokes.
Excess lateral loads on wheel. Repair if possible, avoid loading wheel from side
if possible.
SYMPTOM: Stripped nipple wrench flats.
Over-tight spokes. Avoid over-tightening.
Failure to lubricate nipple threads and heads. Lubricate before truing.
Use of oversize nipple wrench. Use correct size.
Attempted repair of damaged rim by spoke adjust- Re-bend, then re-true if possible.
ment only.
SYMPTOM: Nipples frozen by corrosion.
Failure to lubricate or treat threads. Lubricate or treat threads at time of building, at all
times when re-truing, and once a month in cli-
mates where rust is a problem. Use stainless-steel
spokes whenever possible.
SYMPTOM: Bulges in the sidewall of the rim at each spoke or cracks or bulging at each spoke hole in
the rim.
Spoke tension too high for rim strength. Use less tension, but replace rim if cracked.
Inadequate support of the nipple at the rim. Use nipple washers in non-eyeleted lightweight rims.
SYMPTOM: Wheel will not install centered in frame or fork or bicycle pulls to one side when ridden.
Dish is incorrect. Check and correct dish.
If dish is correct, frame or fork may be off-center. Check and correct frame or fork alignment.
If dish is correct and frame or fork is aligned, drop- File dropout slots to equalize height.
outs may be unequal height.
SYMPTOM: A pinging or popping sound is heard continuously from the wheel (particularly rear)
while riding.
Spoke tension is too low and slack spokes are rub- Tighten spokes.
bing on each other or on the spoke guard.
SYMPTOM: When the wheel is first ridden, popping and pinging sounds are emitted from the wheel,
particularly when accelerating.
True was not stabilized, and spokes are unwinding Stabilize the true (see page 17-25, step 117).
when relieved of tension.
17 – 33
18 – WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
2
1
Clamping force should be

first felt in this range
80º 90º
Closed Open
Dropout
18 – WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
REMOVING A FRONT OR REAR WHEEL 18 – 6
PREPARING ALL WHEELS FOR REMOVAL 18 – 6
PREPARING A REAR WHEEL FOR REMOVAL 18 – 6
LOOSENING QUICK RELEASES OR AXLE NUTS 18 – 6
CLEARING FREEWHEEL FROM DERAILLEUR AND CHAIN 18 – 7
INSPECTING AXLE FOR BENDS 18 – 7
FITTING WHEELS, ORIGINAL AND REPLACEMENT 18 – 7
TIRE CLEARANCE 18 – 8
FIT OF AXLE LENGTH TO DROPOUT THICKNESS 18 – 8
FIT OF HUB WIDTH TO WIDTH BETWEEN DROPOUTS 18 – 9
FITTING WHEELS, REPLACEMENT ONLY 18 – 10
FIT OF AXLE TO DROPOUT-SLOT WIDTH 18 – 10
FIT OF FREEWHEEL TO HUB 18 – 11
FIT OF RIM WIDTH TO BRAKE-PAD WIDTH 18 – 12
FIT OF RIM DIAMETER RELATIVE TO BRAKE-PAD HEIGHT 18 – 13
CENTERING OF RIM TO BRAKES 18 – 13
FIT OF RIM TO EXISTING TIRE 18 – 14
INSTALLING THE WHEEL 18 – 14
QUICK-RELEASE SETTING 18 – 14
FRONT WHEELS 18 – 15
REAR WHEELS 18 – 17
NON-DERAILLEUR CHAIN TENSION 18 – 21
INTERNAL-GEAR HUBS 18 – 21
STURMEY ARCHER 3-SPEED 18 – 21
SHIMANO 3-SPEED 18 – 21
SHIMANO NEXUS 18 – 22
WHEEL REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION TROUBLESHOOTING 18 – 23
18 – WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,

AND INSTALLATION
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Rim: The metal hoop at the outer perimeter of the
wheel to which the tire attaches.
This chapter is about removing and re-installing wheels,
Seat stays: The two frame tubes that go from the rear
as well as installing a replacement wheel or rebuilt wheel.
dropouts to the frame joint just under the seat.
Skewer: The shaft of the quick-release lever that goes
through the hollow axle in the hub. It connects the cam
GENERAL INFORMATION mechanism at one end to the tension-adjusting nut at the
other end. The word “skewer” is sometimes used to refer
to the entire quick-release mechanism.
TERMINOLOGY Solid-axle wheel: A wheel that is secured to the bike
Axle nut: A large hex nut that threads onto the axle by the means of axle nuts.
that is outside the dropout to which the wheel attaches. Wheel: The assembly of the hub, spokes, and rim. The
The axle nut should not be confused with the locknut. The word “rim” is sometimes misused to mean “wheel.” The
locknut is a nut that threads onto all threaded axles and word “wheel” can be used to refer to the hub, spokes, rim,
locks the position of the cone on the axle. When looking and tire, when the tire is mounted to the rim.
at a mounted wheel, any nut inside the frame is a locknut
and any nut outside the frame is an axle nut.
Chain stays: The two frame tubes that go from the
PREREQUISITES
rear dropouts to the frame joint that is between the pedals Tire removal and installation
(usually at the bottom-bracket shell). Before replacing a wheel, the tire should be removed.
Dropout: The portion of the frame or fork to which See the TIRES AND TUBES chapter (page 19-3) if unsure
the wheel attaches. It may also be called a fork end or fork about tire removal and installation.
tip (these terms apply to both front and rear dropouts). Freewheel removal and installation
Fork blades: The two tubes that join the frame to To replace a wheel, it is necessary to remove the
the front hub. freewheel or freehub cogs. See the FREEHUB MECHA-
Quick-release adjusting nut: On the opposite NISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS chapter for free-
end of the quick-release mechanism from the quick- wheel removal (page 25-9) and freehub-cog removal
release lever is the quick-release adjusting nut. When the (page 25-15).
mechanism is loose, this nut is tightened or loosened to
determine how tightly the quick-release mechanism will Hub re-spacing and adjustment
clamp. To improve the fit of an original or replacement hub,
Quick-release mechanism: When used in regard it may be necessary to add or subtract spacers from the
to a wheel, this term refers to a mechanism that attaches axle set or change the amount that the axle protrudes
the wheel to the bicycle. It includes a quick-release lever, a past the outer locknut. These operations may require hub
skewer, and a quick-release adjusting nut. The quick-release overhaul and definitely require hub adjustment. See the
mechanism is often called just the “quick-release.” LOOSE-BALL HUBS chapter (page 12-7) for hub overhaul
Quick-release lever: The approximately 2-inch lever and adjustment.
that pivots 180° to apply the clamping force that holds the
wheel to the bicycle. It may also be called a “cam lever,”
Wheel dishing
After spacing an axle set to improve fit of the wheel
because the pivot of the lever is a cam that converts rota-
to the frame or fork, or fit of the freewheel to the wheel,
tional motion to linear motion.
chances are it will be necessary to re-dish the wheel (center
Quick-release wheel: A wheel that is secured to the
the rim to the hub). See page 17-16.
bike by the means of a quick-release mechanism.
18 – 1
18– WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
Rear-derailleur adjustment TIME AND DIFFICULTY

If installing a replacement rear wheel that does not Wheel removal and re-installation is a 1–2 minute
exactly match the way the original hub positioned the rear job of little difficulty. Fitting a new replacement wheel,
cogs (or if in re-spacing the original hub the position- which can include hub overhaul, wheel dishing, and brake
ing of the rear cogs is changed), it will be necessary to adjustments, is a 30–45 minute job of moderate difficulty.
re-adjust the rear derailleur. See the REAR DERAILLEURS If brake adjustments or rear-derailleur adjustments are
chapter (page 32-9). required after installing the wheel, these will add to the
Brake adjustment time of the job. See the appropriate chapters on these
If re-installing an original wheel that was not cor- subjects to get an idea of what time might be involved in
rectly installed before removal, if installing an original these operations.
wheel that has been re-dished, or if installing a replace-
ment wheel that has more-correct rim dish than the
original wheel, it will be necessary to center the brake
COMPLICATIONS
pads to the rim. If installing a wheel with a different Unsafe wheel installation
rim diameter or width, it will be necessary to adjust pad It is not unusual to find an unsafe wheel installation,
alignment and brake-cable length. See the RIM BRAKES due to loose axle nuts or missing washers on nut-type hubs
chapter (page 36-1) for brake adjustments. or loose or misused quick-release skewers on quick-release
hubs. It is the mechanic’s responsibility to make sure that
the customer is informed about the problem and the cor-
INDICATIONS rect way to install the wheel.
Wheel removal and re-installation Wheel-mounting failure
Wheels need to be removed and re-installed for a vari- There are five traditional methods used to determine
ety of reasons, including flat-tire repair, tire replacement, whether a quick-release mechanism is adequately secure,
wheel truing, wheel rebuilding, hub adjustment and and all are flawed. One traditional method to base whether
overhaul, freewheel/freehub-cog servicing, and headset the quick-release lever is adequately secure is to adjust the
adjustment and overhaul. mechanism so that the lever leaves an imprint on the palm
Wheel replacement of the hand from the effort of closing the lever. This is the
Either during the course of repair or even before “palm-imprint” method; any method that focuses on the
attempting repair, symptoms might be experienced indi- closure effort is a variation of the “palm-imprint” method.
cating that it would be better to replace the wheel than Simply stated, there are too many variables that affect
repair it. These are: whether a properly adjusted quick-release mechanism
Multiple broken spokes, either all at once or one at would leave on imprint on the palm. The quality of fab-
a time over the last few hundred miles of use rication, the presence of rust or dirt, the types of materials
Multiple corroded nipples that won’t turn used, the type of surface on the lever, and the toughness of
Multiple damaged nipples (rounded-off wrench the mechanic’s palm are just a few of the factors that could
flats) affect the outcome of the “palm-imprint” method. More
Dents or bends in the rim that cannot be adequately importantly, the palm-imprint method leads the mechanic
straightened by normal spoke adjustment and to focus on the wrong things; the right things to focus on
unbending techniques are the point in the lever’s motion where clamping begins
Cracks in the rim and the position at which the lever stops.
Severe rim-sidewall wear, evidenced by a concave Another traditional method of determining whether
rim sidewall or by rim beads that have become a quick-release mechanism is adequately secured is the
wider than they were originally “dropout-imprint” method. With this method, it is said that
All these problems aside, it may be elected to replace the quick-release mechanism is adequately secured when it
the wheels in order to upgrade the bicycle’s performance. leaves an imprint in the face of the dropout. The size of the
clamping surface, the texture of the clamping surface, and
the type of dropout material all affect what it will take to
TOOL CHOICES cause the quick-release mechanism to leave an imprint in a
There are no special tools required to remove and dropout. Furthermore, once the dropout has been imprinted
install a wheel. numerous times from previous closings of the quick-release
mechanism, there is no way to tell whether the quick-release
18 – 2
mechanism at its current setting is creating a new imprint. converting rotational motion into linear motion. On a quick
Most importantly, this method leads the mechanic to focus release, as the cam rotates, the skewer head (which encircles
on the wrong things; the right things to focus on are the point the cam) is moved away from the dropout (linear motion).
in the lever’s motion where clamping begins and the position The cam turns inside the skewer head, which is often hidden
at which the lever stops. inside the housing so that the quick-release lever pivots in
The third flawed method is the “release-force” (the cam housing). Rotating the quick-release lever rotates
method. In this method, the mechanic adjusts and closes the cam, which changes the position of the skewer head
the quick-release mechanism, then opens it again to sub- in the cam housing (cam nut). The number of degrees of
jectively evaluate the effort required to open, or release, rotation determines the amount that the skewer head is
the mechanism. This method has all the same limitations pulled into the cam nut; when this happens, the distance
of the palm-imprint method. between the cam nut and the adjusting nut decreases, which
The fourth flawed method involves striking the wheel causes the two nuts to apply pressure to the dropouts. Since
to determine if it is secure. With this method, the mechanic virtually all skewers are steel rods of a relatively constant
simply strikes the tire with a fist to see if the wheel comes diameter (all types of steel rods are equally elastic if dimen-
out. The CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Commission) sions are constant), the only factor that determines clamping
requires that wheels resist a force of hundreds of pounds force is the amount that the skewer head moves after the
without coming out. A meaningful striking force applied clamping force begins. Virtually all traditionally designed
with a fist would either break the mechanic’s fist or put a quick-release mechanisms have the same amount of move-
flat spot in the rim. ment differential over a 90° rotation.
The last traditional method (also flawed) involves set- Skewer head Open
ting the lever to a specific position, tightening the adjusting
nut, then closing the lever. This method could be called
Cam nut
the “nut-setting” method. In this method, the mechanic Closed Cam
starts by setting the base of the quick-release lever to be
parallel to the skewer and then turns the adjusting nut
until it is snug. After snugging the adjusting nut, the lever
is closed. The problem with this method is that there are Adjusting nut
a number of factors that influence the point at which the
adjusting nut feels snug. If the dropouts are wider than 18.1 As the lever swings from the open to closed
the hub width and the frame is reasonably stiff, then the position, it rotates the cam, which moves the skewer
adjusting nut will become difficult to turn when it begins head further into the cam nut, effectively moving the
to compress the dropout width down to the width of the cam nut and adjusting nut closer together (which cre-
ates the clamping force).
hub. In this case, closing the quick-release lever will do
little more than reduce the dropout width further, closing The recommended method for setting the quick-release
the gaps between the inside faces of the dropouts and the mechanism is to start by setting the adjusting nut so that,
faces of the hub locknuts. When this condition exists, it is as the lever swings from the open position to the closed
not unusual to have to turn the quick-release lever like a position, the clamping force begins when the base of the
big wing nut, in order to tighten the adjusting nut enough; quick-release lever is perpendicular to the dropout face. This
it is quite possible that several revolutions of the lever-end ensures that the clamping force begins at a point that will
of the quick-release mechanism will be needed, after the allow enough rotation of the cam to create enough displace-
adjusting nut has been turned as far as is possible with ment of the skewer head after clamping begins. The lever
fingers. The shape of the adjusting nut (how easy it is to is then closed until the base of the lever is parallel to the
grasp) and whether the adjusting nut face is smooth or dropout (see figure 18.2). This does two things. First, it cre-
textured also influence the point at which the adjusting ates a 90° rotation of the cam after clamping force begins,
nut feels “snug.” which ensures that adequate skewer-head displacement
The method recommended in the following procedure occurs (pressure). Second, the “parallel-to-dropout” posi-
is based on starting position and ending position of the tion ensures that the cam is rotated just past its high point.
quick-release lever. To understand why this method is best, This ensures that the force required to release the lever will
it is necessary to understand how a quick-release mechanism increase slightly before it gets easier, which ensures that the
works (see figure 18.1). The axle (pivot) of the quick-release quick-release lever has no tendency to open on its own. In
lever is a cam. A cam is a cylinder that rotates around a point case the above instructions were unclear, the recommended
that is not at the center of the cylinder for the purpose of method for using quick-release mechanisms is this: Set the
18 – 3
adjusting nut so that, as the lever is swung from the open it virtually pops itself apart. Quick-release mechanisms are
position to the closed position, the clamping force begins like snaps but without as dramatic and obvious a transition.
at the point where the base of the lever is perpendicular to Unlike a snap, it is possible to stop the quick-release at the
the face of the dropout. Then close the lever at least until point where it is halfway on (highest force); this is not the
its base is parallel to the dropout (90° from starting point point of highest security.
and perpendicular to the skewer, see figure 18.2). The force
that is required to accomplish this can range dramatically,
Open-cam and other alternative quick-
from minuscule to beyond the capacity of human fingers release mechanisms
(in which case the adjustment needs to be compromised). The recommended technique for securing quick-release
The amount of force that is required to close a properly mechanism in this chapter applies to traditional, steel quick-
set quick-release mechanism is dependent on the surface release mechanisms with a cam enclosed inside a housing.
smoothness of the cam, the diameter of the cam, the There are a number of unconventional designs in existence
smoothness of the cam-pivot surface, the length of the today that deviate enough in design that the recommended
lever (and its shape and texture), the total surface area of procedure may not be appropriate. Primarily, these alternative
the cam, and the surface condition of the cam (wear, lubri- designs incorporate aluminum cams (or no cam at all), and
cation, rust, and dirt). the cam mechanism is exposed, rather than enclosed. Dimen-
sions of these external cams also deviate from convention.
See QUICK-RELEASE SETTING (page 18-14) for a procedure
that ascertains the correct setting for a non-standard quick-
release mechanism.
Clamping force should be
first felt in this range Incorrect original wheel installation
80º 90º and brake setup
If the wheel was installed incorrectly, then the brakes
may have been mis-adjusted to line up with the rim. On
Closed Open bikes with anything but cantilever brakes, it is a minor
correction to center the brakes to the correctly installed
wheel, but on bikes with cantilever brakes, the pads often
Dropout
must be repositioned if the rim position changes. A deci-
sion must be made as to whether to put the wheel back in
wrong (to match the brake adjustment), put the wheel in
18.2 When properly set, as the lever swings from right and adjust the pads for free, or contact the customer
the open to closed position, clamping force should first
be felt when the base of the lever is 80–90° from the and tell him or her additional brake work will be needed.
closed position (the base of the lever parallel to the The best solution is for the service writer to identify the
dropout face). problem and give the customer all the options before
A well-known former bike racer recently infuriated the checking in the job.
bicycle industry by testifying that quick-release levers have a Out-of-true wheels
tendency to open on their own even when properly secured. When wheels are removed for tire or hub work, it
He says that he has experienced this personally. It is quite may be the case that the rims are out of true and rub
probable that he was relying on closing force (palm-imprint the brake pads intermittently. Although this is not the
method or variation), not position, to determine when the lever shop’s responsibility, if the customer doesn’t notice the
was properly set. When the lever is not closed to the “paral- problem until after getting the bike back, it will reflect
lel-to-dropout position,” friction alone is resisting its natural poorly on the shop and may lead to a complaint. Usually,
tendency to achieve a state of greater relaxation (i.e., open). it is worth doing a few minutes of complimentary wheel
When the proper position is achieved, the lever actually wants truing before re-installing the wheel. The best solution
to stay closed, rather than trying to open. It’s like the snap on is to spot the problem before the bike is checked in and
your blue jeans. The moment of highest force is when the get the customer to agree to getting the wheel trued or
snap is halfway together. Once you overcome the point where to accept that the rim will rub the pads when the bike is
the snap is halfway on, it actually helps itself go the rest of the returned.
way on. When you unsnap your jeans, at first the mechanism
resists as much or more than it resisted going together, but
once you force the snap to come apart to a certain point,
18 – 4
Poor fit to dropouts wheel that fits more cogs. Diameter of the shaft may be
It is not unusual for a wheel to be too wide or too an issue for some “suspension” front hubs.
narrow for the dropouts, causing awkward removal and Protruding axles
installation. Usually the customer would be familiar with If a quick-release axle protrudes too far from the
the problem, and it is nothing the mechanic cannot deal face of the locknut, it can cause unsafe wheel installation.
with. Complimentary repair of the problem by giving the The axle should not protrude more from the locknut
stays or fork blades a squeeze or pull is not recommended face than the thickness of the dropout in which it will
because it could introduce handling or chainline problems. be installed. It is the mechanic’s responsibility to check
It is a good idea to contact the customer and see if he or every wheel being installed for this condition and correct
she would like to pay for the additional work that required it. Fortunately, it can be corrected adequately by simply
to make the existing wheel fit better. removing the skewer and holding the end of the axle up
Rear-cog position changes to a grinding wheel.
When replacing rear wheels, there is always a possi- Broken axles
bility that the new wheel will position the rear cogs slightly A broken axle may not show itself until the wheel is
differently, causing problems with rear-derailleur adjust- removed and the skewer removed from the hub. Under no
ment. A derailleur adjustment should always be planned circumstances can the wheel be reinstalled without replacing the axle!
as part of a rear-wheel replacement. The customer must agree to axle replacement or accept
Multiple axle-thread standards the bike back in pieces. A broken axle is usually a symptom
There are many different thread descriptions for of a misaligned dropout.
axles. This is only an issue if re-installing an axle-nut-type Bent axles
wheel and a new axle nut is needed. Never use test mating Bent axles are broken axles in the making. They
to determine if a new nut fits. See table 12-2 (page 12-4) should never be bent back because it just causes further
for information on axle-thread types, or compare inside weakening. Even re-installing the wheel with a bent
diameter of new nut and old nut (if not stripped) and then axle is a questionable choice. The customer should be
test mate to determine thread compatibility. advised of the problem and encouraged to agree to
Rounded axle nuts axle replacement.
Rounded axle nuts often require a vise-grip tool to Poor hub adjustments
remove. They should never be re-installed because a torque When the wheel is removed, a tight adjustment, a
wrench should be used for installation. loose adjustment, or loose cone locknuts may be dis-
Stripped axles covered. Adjustments should not be altered, but the
Stripped axle threads may be encountered on wheels customer should be advised of the condition. Loose
with axle nuts. Minor damage can be repaired with a thread adjustments may interfere with installing the wheel in a
chaser, but stripped axles must be replaced. This means a fashion that the rim will not rub the brake pads.
simple flat-tire repair can turn into a hub overhaul as well. Mis-adjusted brake pads
The customer must be informed and asked to authorize an Mis-adjusted brake pads are a problem if they end up
axle replacement, but under no conditions should the wheel rubbing the tire or are at risk of deflecting below the rim
be re-installed with stripped axle threads. when braking hard. Since it could appear that the shop
Damaged quick-release skewers was responsible if a problem relating to these conditions
Quick-release skewers can be damaged in several ways. occurred after the wheel was installed, these conditions
The skewer shaft can be bent or elongated. The cam hous- must be dealt with. In some cases it is simple, but the
ing can be cracked or deformed. The cam lever may be amount of work involved with some brakes ends up being
bent. The cam lever may get sticky (due to cam-surface almost a full brake job. In these cases, it would be best to
wear) and be difficult to close fully from a normal starting contact the customer and get authorization to perform the
position. In all these cases, the quick-release mechanism additional work. The best solution is to look for problems
must be replaced. with brake pads missing the rim whenever checking in a
bike for any service that involves wheel removal.
Different quick-release-skewer sizes
Quick releases can differ in length and shaft diameter.
Length may be an issue if installing a replacement rear
18 – 5
ABOUT THE REST

OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter is divided into four parts. The
first part is about wheel removal. The emphasis here is on
following a procedure that not only makes wheel removal
easy but on getting the right information before remov-
ing the wheel, which makes wheel installation easier. The 2
second part is about the fit of the wheel to the bike and
additional considerations when replacing a wheel. The
third part is about installation of a wheel so that it ends
up properly aligned and secure. The fourth part is about
additional considerations during removal and installation
of rear wheels with internal gearing.
1
18.4 To release a straddle wire to improve brake-pad

REMOVING A FRONT clearance, 1) squeeze the calipers in toward the rim,
2) then pull the end of the straddle wire out of the
OR REAR WHEEL
caliper arm.
4. [ ] Spread brake pads by operating quick release
on sidepull caliper or unhooking straddle wire
PREPARING ALL WHEELS on cantilever/U-brake/centerpull brake. If nei-
ther is possible, deflate tire if it is too fat to
FOR REMOVAL pass through brake pads.
5. [ ] Some front wheels have safety-retention
NOTE: Refer to INTERNAL-GEAR HUBS section (page 18-
21) if removing rear wheel with internal gearing. mechanisms that hold wheel in place if quick
1. [ ] Put bike in bike stand. release fails. Look for plates of metal sand-
2. [ ] Operate brake once or twice, spin wheel, wiched between quick release and dropout
and observe whether rim or tire is rubbing face and remove any screw/bolt that goes
on brake pads. through plate.
3. [ ] Observe whether rim appears centered NOTE: Skip to step 8 if removing a front wheel.
between fork blades or seat stays (frame
tubes from below seat to rear axle).
PREPARING A REAR WHEEL
FOR REMOVAL
6. [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring in front
and outermost cog in rear so that chain has
as much slack as possible.
7. [ ] Observe whether tire appears centered
between chain stays just behind the bottom
bracket.
Brake
quick release
LOOSENING QUICK RELEASES
OR AXLE NUTS
NOTE: If wheel is held to bike by axle nuts, skip to
A step 10.
If the wheel is held to bike by a quick
A A release
8. [ ] Locate quick-release lever (generally on left
18.3 By flipping the quick release in direction A, the side of bike) and flip lever (do not rotate)
pads will move in direction A so that the tire will clear 180° (see figure 18.5, page 18-7).
the pads more easily.
18 – 6
13. [ ] If removing rear wheel, it probably has come
Secured to a rest on top of rear derailleur. Rotate derail-
leur back (clockwise viewed from right side of
bike) around its mounting bolt while pushing
wheel forward and down (see figure 18.6).
14. [ ] Once freewheel clears rear derailleur, drop
wheel down and to bike’s left to get rear
cogs and right end of axle to clear lower
section of chain.
INSPECTING AXLE FOR BENDS

A number of the following steps might require hub
Released work. Inspect now for whether the axle is bent. A bent axle
often indicates that the dropouts need alignment.
18.5 Opening a quick-release lever. 15. [ ] Looking into each end of axle, rotate axle and
9. [ ] If wheel does not want to easily slide out observe whether there is any oscillation that
of dropouts, hold conical-nut end of quick- would indicate either end of axle is bent.
release mechanism on side opposite lever
and rotate lever counterclockwise to loosen
mechanism further or simply loosen conical
nut further.
If the wheel is held to bike by axle nuts
10. [ ] Turn either axle nut counterclockwise to
loosen.
11. [ ] Turn second axle nut counterclockwise to
loosen. If axle tends to turn with axle nut,
re-tighten first axle nut just enough to fix
axle while breaking loose second axle nut,
then break loose first nut again.
12. [ ] If wheel does not slide out easily, loosen
either or both axle nuts further.
NOTE: If removing a front wheel, removal is com-
plete. Ignore remaining steps.
CLEARING FREEWHEEL
FROM DERAILLEUR AND CHAIN
18.7 Inspect the end of the axle for oscillation when
rotated.
2
FITTING WHEELS,
1
ORIGINAL AND
REPLACEMENT
Whether reinstalling an existing wheel or installing a
replacement wheel, check whether it fits. The following is
a short list of fit aspects common to all wheels:
Tire clearance
18.6 Rotate the derailleur back so it will clear the Fit of axle length to dropout thickness
wheel when the wheel is removed. Fit of hub width to width between dropouts
18 – 7
For replacement wheels the following additional
aspects of fit should also be considered:
FIT OF AXLE LENGTH
Fit of axle to dropout-slot width (particularly if TO DROPOUT THICKNESS
replacing front solid-axle wheel with quick- The amount that the axle protrudes past the locknut on
release wheel) the hub is important. If the wheel is a quick-release type and
Fit of thread-on freewheel or freehub-cog cassette the axle is too long, it may prevent the wheel from securing
to hub (if replacing rear wheel) properly. Simply, a quick-release axle should never protrude
For replacement wheels and rebuilt wheels, these past the locknut by more than the thickness of the dropout
additional aspects of fit should also be considered: into which the axle will insert. If the wheel is the type held
Fit of rim width to brake-pad width on by axle nuts, the axle protrusion should be at least equal
Fit of rim diameter relative to brake-pad height to the sum of the dropout thickness, the thickness of the
Centering of rim to brakes axle washer (if any), and the thickness of the axle nut, or the
Fit of rim to existing-tire size axle nut may not engage the axle adequately.
Caliper Depth gauge
TIRE CLEARANCE Locknut
When installing a wheel with an existing tire, it is easy (cutaway)
Correct
to assume the clearance is sufficient when no pre-existing
symptom existed. This is probably true with wheel instal-
Incorrect
lation into a rigid (non-suspension) fork or frame, but it
is not necessarily true when installing a wheel into a sus-
pension fork or frame. Also, when installing a wheel with 18.8 Measuring axle protrusion.
a new tire, clearance can be a concern regardless of the
type of frame or fork. Consider the following guidelines 1. [ ] Measure axle protrusion on each side of hub
and record here:
regarding tire clearance.
Right-side protrusion: __________
Tire-clearance guidelines Left-side protrusion: __________
1. All bikes: Clearance on side of tire should be Dropout
adequate to allow for typical loss of lateral
true without causing tire to rub on frame. Dropout with Bolt-on
2. Off-road bikes only: Clearance on side of tire integral hanger derailleur hanger
should be adequate to allow for typical loss
of lateral true, plus typical mud or debris
buildup, without causing tire to rub on frame.
3. Non-suspension road bikes only: Clearance at
tread of tire should be adequate to allow for
typical loss of radial true, without causing tire
to rub on frame or fork.
4. Off-road non-suspension frame or fork only:
Clearance at tread of tire should be adequate Dropout thickness Dropout thickness
to allow for typical loss of radial true, plus
typical mud or debris buildup, without caus- 18.9 Measuring dropout thickness.
ing tire or buildup to rub frame or fork. 2. [ ] Measure dropout thickness and record here.
5. All suspension forks and frames: Clearance Right side (include derailleur-mounting plate
at tread must allow for full travel of tire that bolts on to the face of the dropout, if
when suspension is compressed, plus any): __________
approximately 10mm of additional compres- Left side: __________
sion that may occur when suspension is NOTE: If wheel is held on by axle nuts, skip to
severely compressed. NOTE: Check manu- step 5.
facturer’s specification for minimum clear-
ance (usually found in fork or bike owner’s If wheel is quick-release type
manual)—failure to maintain sufficient tread Axle-length protrusion can be too long, resulting in
clearance will cause rider to experience the quick-release mechanism clamping against the end
catastrophic loss of control! of the axle instead of against the dropout. Axle-length
protrusion cannot be functionally too short, it simply
18 – 8
makes alignment of the wheel more awkward if there Tolerance for error
is no protrusion (wheel security is unaffected by axle-to- If the hub width differs from the dropout width by
dropout engagement). 2mm or more, awkward wheel installation or removal will
3. Subtract right-side axle protrusion from right-
probably be experienced.
side-dropout thickness.
If the hub is too wide, the wheel will always be dif-
Record answer here: __________
[ ] If answer is a negative value, shorten axle ficult to install, regardless of how much the axle nuts or
by filing, cutting, or replacing. Excess length quick-release adjustment is loosened.
can also be shifted to other side if other side If the hub is too narrow, the wheel will come out rela-
is too short. tively easily when the quick-release mechanism is released
[ ] If answer is ≥0, axle protrusion is or the axle nuts are broken loose; however, the frame will
acceptable. expand to a wider state after the wheel is removed. The
4. Subtract left-side axle protrusion from left- expanded frame makes reinstalling the wheel a struggle
side-dropout thickness. Record answer here: without additional loosening of the quick-release mecha-
__________
[ ] If answer is a negative value, shorten axle
nism or axle nuts, because otherwise the frame will need
by filing, cutting, or replacing. Excess length to be compressed to fit back between the quick-release
can also be shifted to other side if other side parts or the axle nuts.
is too short. Modern front dropouts often have a recess in their
[ ] If answer is ≥0, axle protrusion is acceptable. faces, or tabs that protrude from the tips, so that the wheel
If wheel is solid-axle type is trapped even when the quick release is released. These
Axle-length protrusion can be too short, resulting require that the quick-release adjusting nut (on the non-
in inadequate engagement of the axle nut. Axle-length lever end) be loosened further just so that the quick release
protrusion cannot be functionally too long, it is simply will clear these safety mechanisms. In this case, needing to
unsightly and hard on shins. loosen the quick release further to remove the wheel is not
5. Subtract right-side axle protrusion from sum of necessarily a sign that there is a problem with wheel fit. To
right-side-dropout thickness, axle-nut thick- adjust and readjust the quick release every time because of
ness, and axle-nut-washer thickness. Record these safety devices is a pain. Every millimeter the dropouts
answer here: __________ are too wide adds to the pain.
[ ] If answer is a positive value, axle must be
replaced unless enough excess length is
With regard to the fit of the hub to a suspension fork,
found on left side. the tolerance for error is even less. The hub must be less
[ ] If answer is ≤0, axle protrusion is than 1mm wider or narrower than the width between the
acceptable. Extra length can also be shifted dropouts on the suspension fork. If the fit is worse than
to other side if other side is too short. 1mm, then the tubes sliding in and out of each other (as
6. Subtract left-side axle protrusion from sum of the suspension compresses and extends) tend to bind.
left-side-dropout thickness, axle-nut thick-
ness, and axle-nut-washer thickness. Record Quantifying error
answer here: __________ To quantify of the width error between the hub and
[ ] If answer is a positive value, axle must be the dropouts, two measurements must be taken and a dif-
replaced unless enough excess length is ference must be calculated. First, use a caliper to measure
found on right side. the width from the face of one hub locknut (the surface
[ ] If answer is ≤0, axle protrusion is that presses against the inside face of the dropout) to
acceptable. Extra length can also be shifted
the face of the other hub locknut. For rear hubs it will
to other side if other side is too short.
usually be necessary to remove the freewheel or freehub
cogs (see the FREEHUB MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON
FIT OF HUB WIDTH TO WIDTH FREEWHEELS chapter, page 25-9 and 25-15). Next, use a
caliper to measure the distance between the inside faces
BETWEEN DROPOUTS of the two dropouts (the parts of the frame to which the
A good fit between the hub and the dropouts ensures wheel attaches). The width error is the difference between
that the wheel is easy to remove and install. In the case these two measurements.
of suspension forks, a good fit is essential to keep the
suspension working properly. Correcting error
To correct a width error, there are two basic
approaches. It is possible to spread or compress the
width between the dropouts. This is not an option with
18 – 9
aluminum frames or forks, carbon-fiber frames or forks,
or suspension forks (unless the suspension system is not
part of the fork blades). The other option is to change
the width of the hub. This is not an option with many
cartridge-bearing hubs, which often do not have means
to add or subtract spacers from the axle. In these cases, a
new axle set may need to be installed.
Assuming that the hub is a loose-ball hub with a
threaded axle, re-spacing the axle is simply a matter of Dropout inside width
adding, subtracting, or substituting spacers behind the
locknuts on each end of the axle. 18.11 Measure dropout inside width.
8. [ ] Measure width between dropout
Consequences of hub re-spacing inside faces, record here: __________
Although the process of adding or subtracting space 9. [ ] Subtract smaller number from steps 7 or 8
from the axle is relatively simple, the consequences can be from larger number from steps 7 or 8 and
quite complex. When adding, subtracting, or substituting record answer here: __________
spacers from either end of the axle, it will be necessary 10. Check one of following depending on answer in
to re-adjust the hub bearings (see the LOOSE-BALL HUBS step 9:
chapter, page 12-12). As long as changes made are equal [ ] Hub width needs to be increased by amount
on both sides of the axle, then there is no concern about in step 9.
wheel dish (centering of the rim to the hub). If at any [ ] Hub width needs to be decreased by amount
time unequal spacing changes occur on the two ends of in step 9.
[ ] Hub width is acceptable (step 9 is <1mm
the axle, then the wheel will need to be re-dished (see the
for suspension forks or ≤2mm for others).
chapter WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR, page 17-16). NOTE: If just re-installing a wheel, skip following
As long as spacers are being added to the right end of a section FITTING WHEELS, REPLACEMENT ONLY and
rear hub, there is no concern about the fit of the freewheel go directly to INSTALLING THE WHEEL.
cogs, but if subtracting space from the right end there is a
possibility that the outermost cog may end up too close to
the frame and that the chain might jam against the frame
either while on the outermost cog or while shifting on to or
off of it. Anytime spacers are being added or subtracted from
FITTING WHEELS,
the right side of the rear hub, it will affect the rear-derailleur REPLACEMENT ONLY
limit-screw settings and the index-cable-tension adjustment. NOTE: Skip to FIT OF BRAKE-PAD WIDTH TO RIM WIDTH
See the REAR DERAILLEURS chapter (page 32-10) in order to (following step 21) if re-installing an original
adjust the rear derailleur. hub built up with a new rim.
The following steps enable calculation of the total
change necessary to make the hub a perfect fit to the
dropouts. To make the necessary corrections to the hub,
FIT OF AXLE
the wheel dish, the freewheel fit, or the rear-derailleur TO DROPOUT-SLOT WIDTH
adjustment, refer to the appropriate chapters on these NOTE: Use this section only if replacing front solid-
components. axle wheel with quick-release wheel.
If upgrading a front solid-axle wheel to a quick-release
Over-locknut width
wheel, there may be a problem fitting the axle to the slots
in the fork dropouts. Most road-bike front axles that use
axle nuts are 5/16" diameter (7.95mm), and all quick-release
front axles are at least 9.5mm diameter. Some forks are
made with dropout slots just wide enough to accommo-
date the axle-nut-type axles. If upgrading to quick-release
front axle, do the following steps. If the dropout axle slots
are too narrow, they will need to be enlarged with a file.
18.10 Measure over-locknut width. MTB front axles that use axle nuts are usually fatter, so the
7. [ ] Measure over-locknut width dropouts may not need this modification to accommodate
of hub and record here: __________ a quick-release axle.
18 – 10
If replacing an axle-nut-type front of the axle should be added to the left side of the axle. If
adding spacers to the right side of the hub, the equivalent
wheel with a quick-release wheel amount should be subtracted from the left side of the hub.
11. Measure width of slot in fork dropout and con-
clude one of following: If the freewheel space is wrong and the hub width is also
[ ] Slot width is ≥9.5mm, quick-release axle will wrong, try to fix both at the same time. See the LOOSE-
fit without filing axle slots. BALL HUBS chapter (page 12-7) to add and subtract spacers
[ ] Slot width is <9.5mm, axle slots must be from the axle and adjust the hub after so doing.
filed to fit quick-release axle. Older French bikes (before 1985) occasionally had
freewheel threads that were a 1mm pitch. Just about any
FIT OF FREEWHEEL TO HUB replacement wheel will have freewheel threads that are a
pitch of 24tpi. These two pitches are not compatible. In
NOTE: Use this section only if replacing a rear
wheel equipped with a thread-on freewheel.
such a case, the freewheel will need to be replaced along
Rear wheels that fit thread-on freewheels (as opposed with the wheel.
to freehubs, which have a built-in freewheel) are not all If replacing a rear wheel equipped with a
made with the same space for the freewheel to fit (called thread-on freewheel with a new wheel
freewheel space). Also, in rare cases, there is a possibility 12. [ ] Measure pitch of freewheel threads on free-
that the threads on the freewheel are not compatible to wheel and hub and make sure they match.
the threads on the hub. Even when the hub has adequate
A B
freewheel space, if it is not the identical amount as the
original hub, it will be necessary to readjust the rear-
derailleur limit screws and cable.
For every type of freewheel (five-speeds, narrow six-
speeds, wide six-speeds, and seven-speeds), there is a mini-
mum-freewheel-space value. In certain cases in which the seat
stay (tube from below the seat to the rear dropout) is bulky
where it attaches to the dropout, the minimum freewheel
space may not be adequate (the chain may rub against the
end of the seat stay while on the outermost cog or shifting 18.12 Measure these two dimensions to determine
freewheel space.
on and off of the outermost cog).
To determine whether the new rear hub has adequate 13. [ ] Measure distance from shoulder at bottom
freewheel space, take two measurements on the hub, add of hub’s freewheel threads to end of hub
them together, and see if the answer is equal to or more shell and record: (new hub) __________
than the space requirement for the specific freewheel. In (old hub) __________
14. [ ] Measure from end of hub shell to face of
the case of a six-speed freewheel, it will also be necessary
locknut and record: (new hub) __________
to take a measurement on the freewheel to determine (old hub) __________
whether it is a narrow- or wide-spaced six-speed. An 15. [ ] Add both new hub numbers from steps 13
alternate approach is to compare the new hub’s freewheel and 14 and record answer here: __________
space to the old hub’s freewheel space. As long as the new 16. [ ] Add both old hub numbers from steps 13
hub has space equal to or greater than the old hub, the and 14 and record answer here: _________
freewheel space should be adequate. It is also possible to
calculate the difference between the old and new hubs’
freewheel spaces to determine how much space to add
or subtract from the right side of the new hub’s axle set
in order to get an identical match and avoid having to 18.13 If freewheel is a six-speed, measure the free-
readjust the rear derailleur. wheel width.
If the freewheel space on the new hub needs to be 17. [ ] If freewheel has six cogs, measure distance
modified, it will affect the wheel dish and the fit of the from outer face of outermost cog to inner
hub to the dropouts (see above). See the chapter WHEEL face of innermost cog and record mea-
TRUING AND REPAIR (page 17-16) to adjust the wheel dish. surement here: __________
If the hub’s fit into the dropouts is good, then whatever 18. Check appropriate choice below, depending on
amount of spacing will be removed from the right side freewheel to be installed on new wheel:
18 – 11
[ ] Five-speed freewheel; minimum freewheel
space is 29mm.
[ ] Six-speed freewheel width is <28mm, min-
imum freewheel space is 31mm.
[ ] Six-speed freewheel width is >28mm, min-
imum freewheel space is 35mm.
[ ] Seven-speed freewheel; minimum freewheel
space is 37mm.
19. [ ] If new hub freewheel space (step 15) is less
than minimum-freewheel-space requirement
(step 18), add necessary spacers to right side
of axle so that it equals minimum-freewheel-
space requirement (derailleur adjustment will
be required unless step-18 amount also equals
step 16) or add or subtract necessary spacers
on right side of axle so that new freewheel
space equals step 16 (no derailleur adjust-
18.14 Brake pads change height as they move laterally.
ment will be required). For adding spacers, see
LOOSE-BALL HUBS chapter, page 12-7. With sidepull and cantilever brakes, pads move down
20. [ ] If necessary, subtract or add spacers to left as they move in. If the replacement rim is narrower,
side of rear axle so that over-locknut width inspect for pads that end up too low on the rim. If the
equals step 8 (±2mm). For adding spacers, replacement rim is wider, inspect for pads that end up too
see LOOSE-BALL HUBS chapter, page 12-7. high on the rim. With centerpull and U-brake calipers, the
21. [ ] Re-dish wheel if spacers have not been
pads move up as they move in. If the replacement rim is
added or subtracted equally on right and left
narrower, inspect for pads that end up too high on the
sides of wheel (see WHEEL TRUING AND REPAIR
chapter, page 17-16). rim. If the replacement rim is wider, inspect for pads that
end up too low on the rim.
FIT OF RIM WIDTH Rim width
TO BRAKE-PAD WIDTH
In many cases, if a replacement wheel has a different
rim width than the original wheel, then nothing is needed
other than a minor cable adjustment to change the brake-
pad-to-rim clearance. If the bike has cantilever brakes,
U-brakes, centerpull brakes, or Shimano dual-pivot brakes, 18.15 Measuring rim width.
then even minor changes in rim width can have a major 22. [ ] Measure and compare old and new rim
effect on brake-pad-height adjustment. The reason for widths.
this is that the above-listed brakes (all brakes other than 23. If new rim width is narrower, check one of fol-
conventional sidepull brakes) have a very short caliper- lowing choices:
arm length. When the caliper arm is short, the pads move [ ] Brakes are cantilever or sidepull brakes;
almost an equal amount up and down for the amount they check if brake pads hit too low on new rim.
move in and out (see figure 18.14). For example, a 21mm- [ ] Brakes are U-brake or centerpull; check if
wide mountain-bike rim might be replacing a 27mm-wide brake pads hit too high on rim.
mountain-bike rim. Each pad will need to move 3mm 24. If new rim width is wider, check one of fol-
lowing choices:
further in to reach the rim. When a cantilever arm moves
[ ] Brakes are cantilever or sidepull brakes;
a pad 3mm further in, the pad ends up 1–2mm further check if brake pads hit too high on new rim.
down. This might end up with the pad partially below the [ ] Brakes are U-brake or centerpull; check if
rim. All this means is that the brake-pad height on the brake pads hit too low on rim.
caliper arm needs to be adjusted, not that the narrower
rim cannot be used.
18 – 12
FIT OF RIM DIAMETER RELATIVE

TO BRAKE-PAD HEIGHT
In almost every case, a wheel must be replaced with
one of an identical size or the brakes will not reach the
rim. The only exception to this is the 700C and the 27"
sizes, which differ in radius by approximately 4mm. In
most cases, even this small difference would mean that the
brakes will not fit. If replacing a 27" wheel with a 700C
wheel and the brake pads are currently at the top of their
height-adjustment range, then there is a possibility the
700C wheel will fit. If replacing a 700C wheel with a 27" Up
wheel and the brake pads are currently at the bottom of
their height-adjustment range, then there is a possibility
the 27" wheel will fit. (This example assumes the brakes
are sidepull, not cantilever.)
If replacing a smaller wheel size with a larger size (for Down
example replacing 700C with 27") there is also a question
as to whether the tire tread will clear the frame or fork. If 18.17 Vertical pad adjustment of a sidepull brake.
the new tire is of a similar fatness as the old one, then it is 28. [ ] Measure amount brake pad can move down
simply a matter of checking the old tire to see if there is (if step 26 is smaller than step 25) or up (if
at least 8mm clearance. If the new tire is skinnier or fatter step 26 is larger than step 25) and write
answer here: __________
than the old tire, factor in that difference as well as the
29. Choose one of following choices:
wheel-radius difference. Ideally, try to end up with about
[ ] Step 28 is larger than step 27, so brakes
6mm clearance (without fenders) and 12mm clearance if will accommodate new wheel size.
fenders will be used. [ ] Step 28 is smaller than step 27, so brakes
NOTE: If replacing a wheel with one of the same will not accommodate new wheel size.
size, skip to CENTERING OF RIM TO BRAKES. 30. [ ] If replacing a smaller wheel with a larger
If replacing wheel with one of another size one, check clearance between tread and
frame to make sure there will be room for a
larger tire.
CENTERING OF RIM TO BRAKES

Assuming the wheel is correctly dished initially (and
this may prove false later), if the axle spacing was mod-
ified in any way, dish should be checked and corrected.
Assuming the original wheel centered correctly between
the brake pads, if the new wheel does not center up well,
either the brakes were mis-adjusted to a poorly dished old
wheel, or the new wheel is not correctly dished. When
Radius
installing the new wheel, if it does not center to the brake
pads, there is either a problem with the wheel dish or the
18.16 Measure the rim radius. brake adjustment. Use a dish gauge to check the dish of
25. [ ] Measure radius of old wheel and write
the new wheel (see page 17-16) before centering the brakes
answer here: __________ to the new wheel.
26. [ ] Measure radius of new wheel and write 31. [ ] Install wheel temporarily and check if rim is
answer here: __________ centered between brake pads. If centered,
27. [ ] Subtract smaller of steps 25 and 26 skip steps 32 and 33.
from larger of steps 25 and 26 and write 32. [ ] If not centered, check and correct wheel
answer here: __________ dish if necessary.
This is amount brake pads will need to be 33. If wheel dish is correct, brakes need centering.
adjusted up or down to reach new rim.
18 – 13
FIT OF RIM TO EXISTING TIRE 36. [ ] Divide answer in step 35 by 2.5 to

determine “section width” and record
Assuming the replacement wheel is the same size cat- answer here: __________
egory as the original and the plan is to reuse the old tire, 37. [ ] Multiply rim inside width from step 34 by
check that the new rim width is compatible with the old tire. 1.4 to determine the narrowest acceptable
In a perfect world, it would be a matter of matching the “section width” and record answer here:
named width of the rim to the named width of the tire, and __________
all 26" MTB tires would be compatible with all 26" MTB 38. [ ] Multiply rim inside width from step 34 by
rims. Unfortunately, the world isn’t perfect, at least not as 2.0 (road bikes) or 3.0 (MTBs) to determine
far as tires and rims are concerned. For any size (such as the widest acceptable “section width” and
record answer here: __________
26" MTB), there are a variety of rim widths and a variety
39. Check one of following choices:
of tire widths. To complicate matters, the actual width for [ ] Step 36 is included in range of steps 37 and
two rims that are named the same can be quite different. 38, so tire width is ideal for rim.
The same holds true of tires. If combining the narrowest [ ] Step 36 is outside of range of steps 37 and
of rims with the widest of tires in a given size group or 38, so tire width is potentially unacceptable
vice versa, then there may be a problem. There are a few for rim. (See preceding text for description
simple measurements that can be taken and calculations to of possible problems.)
make to determine whether the tire width is acceptable to
use with the new wheel.
If the tire is too narrow for the new rim, there are several
consequences. The height profile of the tire will be too low, INSTALLING THE WHEEL
which can lead to more rim damage and more pinch flats. NOTE: Refer to INTERNAL-GEAR HUBS section (page 18-
Also, the shape of the tire will be deformed in a way that 21) if removing rear wheel with internal gearing.
reduces cornering performance (particularly on road bikes).
If the tire is too wide for the new rim, there is some risk of
different consequences. If the tire is too wide for the rim
QUICK-RELEASE SETTING
As long as the quick-release skewer is steel and is 5mm
and the bike has cantilever brakes, the brake pads often end diameter, there is a simple procedure to ascertain the correct
up rubbing on the tire—resulting in its premature demise. setting. When correctly set and operated correctly, quick-
If the bike in question has sidepull brakes, the pads probably release mechanisms should compress approximately .6mm
will not spread wide enough to clear an oversize tire. Also, on from the point where load initiates to the point the lever is
road bikes where the tire is too wide for the rim, a squirmy fully closed. The following procedure determines what setting
feel in the handling might be experienced—depending on is required to achieve the .6mm target for quick-release-skewer
the tire design and the air pressure. compression, regardless of the brand or cam design.
The following steps determine whether the tire is within 1. [ ] Install quick-release mechanism into fork or
the range of widths that is acceptable on the new rim. frame dropouts without wheel, with lever in
Inside rim width fully closed position.
2. [ ] Tighten quick-release adjusting nut until
dropouts begin to compress, then tighten
nut approximately two more full turns.
3. [ ] Digital calipers only: Use inside-width jaws
of caliper to measure distance between
inside faces of dropouts and zero caliper at
this point.
18.18 Measure inside width of rim. Non-digital calipers: Use inside-width jaws
34. [ ] Use a caliper to measure inside width of rim. of caliper to measure distance between
Record measurement here: __________ inside faces of dropouts and record mea-
Flattened width between beads surement here: ___________mm
4. [ ] Digital calipers only: Open quick-release lever
Cross-section of flattened tire 60º (equivalent to 10-minute change of min-
ute hand on clock), then measure between
18.19 Measure flattened width of tire between beads.
dropouts (readout is change in measurement).
35. [ ] Measure width from bead-to-bead (edge-to- Enter here: ___________mm change
edge) of tire (flattened) and record width
here: __________
18 – 14
Non-digital calipers: Open quick-release 1. [ ] Check that sidepull-brake quick-release
lever 60º (equivalent to 10-minute change mechanism is released or cantilever/
of minute hand on clock), then measure U-brake/centerpull straddle wire is unhooked
distance between dropouts and record (see figures 18.20 and 18.21).
measurement here: ___________mm
Subtract step 3 result from above mea-
surement to determine change in measure-
ment. Enter here: ___________mm change Axle
5. [ ] If change is less than .6mm: Move lever out Axle nut
by 10º increments (approximately 2-minute
Axle washer
change of minute hand on clock) and check
change again. When change is .6mm, note Dropout
angle of quick-release lever here: ________º 18.22 Orientation of axle nut, washer, and dropout.
If change is .6mm: Note angle of quick-
release lever here: ________º 2. Check one of following choices, then perform
If change is more than .6mm: Move lever in lettered steps that follow checked choice:
by 10º increments (approximately 2-minute [ ] If wheel is retained with axle nuts:
change of minute hand on clock) and check a) Remove axle nuts and washers, grease
change again. When change is .6mm, note axle threads.
angle of quick-release lever here: ________º b) Install axle washers (textured-face, if any,
6. [ ] When installing wheel, angle noted in step toward dropout).
5 is position at which force should begin c) Thread on axle nuts (any flange on axle
when closing lever. nut faces toward dropout).
[ ] If quick-release mechanism has been
removed from axle:
FRONT WHEELS a) Lubricate skewer shaft and threads.
b) Lubricate pivot of quick-release lever.
NOTE: For REAR WHEELS, go to page 18-17.
Installing a front wheel is relatively simple, but don’t c) Install conical spring so that small end
points to threaded end of skewer (OK to
let the simplicity lead to carelessness. Nothing is more
omit both springs but not one).
disastrous than a front-wheel-mounting failure!
d) Install skewer in axle so that lever ends
Brake up on wheel’s left side.
quick release e) Install second spring over threaded end
of skewer so that small end points inward
(unless using no springs).
f) Thread on skewer adjusting nut.
A
Adjusting nut
A A
18.20 Releasing a road sidepull brake.

Conical spring
Grease
Skewer shaft (interrupted)

Quick-release lever
Conical spring
Cam nut
Oil
Quick-release-lever pivot (cam)
18.21 A cantilever brake should be released before 18.23 Parts identification and lubrication points of a
installing the wheel. quick-release mechanism.
18 – 15
[ ] If skewer is already installed: “Existing lore” is the cause of many of the problems with
a) Lubricate quick-release lever pivot. quick-release mechanisms. It is strongly recommended that
b) Check that there are two conical springs or you read the earlier section, Wheel-mounting failure (page
no conical springs (one is worse than none). 18-2), before proceeding with wheel installation.
c) Check that small ends of conical springs
point toward center. Incorrect
3. [ ] Slip wheel between fork blades and axle ends Correct
into dropout slots. For quick-release wheels,
convention is that quick-release lever is on
bike’s left (except with disc brakes).
4. [ ] Close sidepull quick-release mechanism OPEN CLOSED
or hook up cantilever/U-brake/centerpull
straddle wire. Incorrect Correct
In the next step, make sure that the wheel is centered
between the fork blades. This is not achieved automati-
18.24 The solid images are quick-release mechanisms
cally by shoving the axle fully into the dropout slots. Few as they appear when they have been closed properly by
manufacturers make forks so precisely that a properly dished utilizing the cam (flipping the lever). The outlined levers are
wheel will automatically center. It is possible to use a round quick-release mechanisms as they appear when they are
file to extend the length of the axle slot in the dropout that secured incorrectly (as though the lever was a wing nut).
is on the side of the fork to which the rim ends up too
close. In most cases, this is not worth the trouble. A more
practical approach is to make sure the wheel is dished, and
install the wheel so that it is centered to the fork blades; Clamping force should be
center the brake to the rim; and from then on, for all further first felt in this range
wheel installations, just install the wheel so that it ends up 80º 90º
centered between the brake pads.
5. Check one of following choices, depending on
whether brake was centered to correctly
dished wheel previously or not: Closed Open
[ ] If brake was not centered to correctly dished
wheel previously: Position rim so that it is Dropout
centered between fork blades. Secure wheel
temporarily and recheck centering.
[ ] If brake was centered to correctly dished
wheel previously: Position rim so that it is 18.25 When properly set, as the lever swings from
centered between brake pads. Operate brake the open to closed position, clamping force should first
be felt when the base of the lever is 80–90° from the
several times to ensure pads are returning to
closed position (with the base of the lever parallel to the
their natural positions. Secure wheel tempo- dropout face).
rarily and recheck centering.
6. [ ] If quick-release wheel has safety-retention Fully closed Not closed
plates: Install screws and tighten screws now.
In the next step, the wheel is secured. There are few
errors a mechanic can make that are more catastrophic
than a wheel-mounting failure. If the wheel is retained Parallel
by axle nuts, there is a simple procedure that guarantees
a secure wheel: Use axle washers, make sure the clamp-
ing surfaces of the axle fully engage the dropout surface,
then use a torque wrench to tighten the axle nuts to the
recommended torque. 18.26 When closed, the base of the lever must be
If the wheel is retained by a quick-release mechanism, parallel to the dropout.
the solution is not so simple. Few manufacturers provide
guidelines for use of the quick-release mechanisms; some of
the manufacturers that do are simply quoting existing lore,
rather than techniques that have been proven by research.
18 – 16
CLOSED
REAR WHEELS
Installing a rear wheel is relatively simple, but com-
pared to a front wheel it is complicated by the chain and
Unacceptable Unacceptable the fact that the wheel needs to be aligned between the
chain stays (frame tubes between the crank set and rear
CLOSED
axle) and the seat stays (frame tubes between the seat and
Unacceptable Ideal Acceptable the rear axle).
SED
ED
OS
ED
CLO
OS
CL
CL
18.27 When closed, the lever should be adjacent to, Brake

but not overlapping, the fork blade. quick release
7. Select one of following steps, depending on

whether wheel is retained by axle nuts or
quick-release mechanism:
[ ] If wheel has axle nuts: Secure nuts to a A
torque of 180–240in-lbs and check that rim
is still centered as in step 5. If axle tends to
rotate while securing axle nut, alternate tight- A A
ening nuts on each side a little at a time.
[ ] If wheel has quick-release mechanism: 18.28 A sidepull brake should be released before
a) Flip lever from open position toward installing the wheel.
closed position and check if clamping force
is first encountered when lever is close to
pointing straight out (base of lever perpen-
dicular to dropout face). If dropouts are
wider than hub width, clamping force does
not begin until both dropouts are contacting
faces of axle hardware.
b) If necessary, tighten or loosen adjusting
nut so that clamping force is first encountered
when lever is close to pointing straight out
(base of lever perpendicular to dropout face).
c) Flip lever to open position and rotate
skewer so that when lever is flipped to
closed position, lever will end up adjacent 18.29 A cantilever brake should be released before
to, but not overlapping, fork blade. installing the wheel.
d) Close lever so that base of lever ends
up parallel to dropout or past point where 9. [ ] Check that sidepull-brake quick-release
it is parallel. mechanism is released or cantilever/U-brake/
e) If unable to close lever fully (base of lever centerpull straddle wire is unhooked.
parallel to dropout), open lever enough to be
able to turn adjusting nut and loosen adjusting
nut by very small increments until just able to
close lever to parallel-to-dropout position.
f) Check that rim is still centered as in step 5.
8. [ ] Center brake pads as necessary (see RIM
BRAKES page 36-1).
18 – 17
[ ] If skewer is already installed:
a) Lubricate quick-release lever pivot.
b) Check that there are two conical springs or
no conical springs (one is worse than none).
Axle c) Check that small ends of conical springs
point toward center.
Axle nut
Axle washer
Dropout
18.30 Orientation of axle nut, washer, and dropout.

H
L
Adjusting nut
Conical spring
Grease
Skewer shaft (interrupted)

Quick-release lever
18.32 Use the derailleur control mechanism to position
Conical spring the rear derailleur fully out before installing rear wheel.
Cam nut 11. [ ] Use right derailleur control to make sure rear
derailleur is moved out as far as it will go.
Oil 12. [ ] Position wheel so that cogs are above
Quick-release-lever pivot (cam) section of chain running from bottom of
18.31 Parts identification and lubrication points of a crankset to bottom of derailleur and below
quick-release mechanism. section of chain running from derailleur to
top of crankset.
10. Check one of following choices, then perform
lettered steps that follow checked choice:
[ ] If wheel is retained with axle nuts:
a) Remove axle nuts and washers, grease
2
axle threads.
b) Install axle washers (textured-face, if any,
1
toward dropout).
c) Thread on axle nuts (any flange on axle
nut faces toward dropout).
[ ] If wheel has quick-release mechanism and
quick-release mechanism has been removed
from axle:
a) Lubricate skewer shaft and threads.
b) Lubricate pivot of quick-release lever.
c) Install conical spring so that small end
points to threaded end of skewer (OK to
omit both springs but not one).
d) Install skewer in axle so that lever ends 18.33 Rotate derailleur back, then place outermost
up on wheel’s left side (except disc brakes). cog of wheel between upper and lower sections of chain
and engage outermost cog to upper section of chain.
e) Install second spring over threaded end
of skewer so that small end points inward 13. [ ] Pull back on derailleur and pull wheel up
(unless using no springs). into dropout axle slots, making sure top of
f) Thread on skewer adjusting nut. outermost cog engages chain.
18 – 18
stays may be limited. After installing the wheel as best as
possible, then center the brake to the rim. On subsequent
wheel installations, the wheel should be installed so that it
ends up centered between the brake pads.
Some dropouts with horizontal axle slots have posi-
tioning screws in the dropouts that butt against the axle.
Once the wheel is properly positioned, these screws can
be adjusted so that both butt against the axle. To position
the wheel when installing it at a later time, just pull it back
until both ends of the axle are against the positioning
1
2 screws.
16. Check one of following choices, depending on
whether the brake was centered to correctly
dished wheel previously or not:
[ ] If brake was not centered to correctly
dished wheel previously: Position rim so
that it is centered between seat stays and
chain stays. Secure wheel temporarily and
recheck centering.
18.34 Pull wheel back and up so that axle seats in [ ] If brake was centered to correctly dished
axle slots, then allow derailleur to swing forward. wheel previously: Position rim so that it is
14. [ ] Temporarily secure wheel with quick release centered between brake pads and chain
or axle nuts. stays (unless brake is under chain stays, in
15. [ ] Close sidepull quick-release mechanism which case rim should be centered between
or hook up cantilever/U-brake/centerpull brake pads and seat stays). Operate brake
straddle wire. several times to ensure pads are returning to
In the next step, make sure that the wheel is centered their natural positions. Secure wheel tempo-
rarily and recheck centering.
between the seat stays and chain stays. This is not automati-
cally achieved by shoving the axle fully into the dropout In the next step, the wheel is secured. There are few
slots. Few manufacturers make frames so precisely that a errors a mechanic can make that are more catastrophic
properly dished wheel will automatically center. than a wheel-mounting failure. If the wheel is retained
If the dropouts have horizontal axle slots, then there by axle nuts, there is a simple procedure that guarantees
will be ample adjustment to center the rim between the a secure wheel: Use axle washers, make sure the clamp-
chain stays and a limited range of adjustment to center ing surfaces of the axle fully engage the dropout surface,
the wheel between the seat stays. then use a torque wrench to tighten the axle nuts to the
If the dropouts have vertical axle slots, then there recommended torque.
will be limited adjustment to center the rim between the If the wheel is retained by a quick-release mechanism,
chain stays and ample range of adjustment to center the the solution is not so simple. Few manufacturers provide
wheel between the seat stays. guidelines for use of the quick-release mechanisms; some of
Because axle slots are often wider than the axle, it is the manufacturers that do are simply quoting existing lore,
usually possible to center the rim by moving the end of rather than techniques that have been proven by research.
the axle at right angles to the direction of the slot. The slot “Existing lore” is the cause of many of the problems with
may be filed wider to increase the amount of adjustment quick-release mechanisms. It is strongly recommended that
available. In most cases, this is not worth the trouble. A you read the earlier section, Wheel-mounting failure (page
more practical approach is to make sure the wheel is cor- 18-2), before proceeding with wheel installation.
17. Select one of following steps, depending on
rectly dished, then install the wheel so that it is centered
whether wheel is retained by axle nuts or
as best as possible between the seat stays and between the quick-release mechanism:
chain stays. If the dropouts have vertical axle slots, precise [ ] If wheel has axle nuts: Secure nuts to a
centering between the seat stays should be possible, but torque of 240–300in-lbs and check that rim
the potential to center the wheel between the chain stays is still centered, as in step 16. If axle tends to
may be limited; if the dropouts have horizontal axle slots, rotate while securing axle nut, alternate tight-
precise centering between the chain stays should be pos- ening nuts on each side a little at a time.
sible, but the potential to center the wheel between the seat
18 – 19
CLOSED
Correct Unacceptable
SED
Correct
CLO
Correct Incorrect
CLOSED
Unacceptable
OPEN ED S
LO C ED
OS
CL
CLOSED
Correct
Correct Unacceptable
ED
Incorrect
OS
CL
18.35 The solid images are quick-release mechanisms
as they appear when they have been closed properly by
CLOSED
utilizing the cam (flipping the lever). The outlined levers
are quick-release mechanisms as they appear when they Unacceptable
have been secured incorrectly (as though the lever was
a wing nut).
CLO
SED
CLOSED
Unacceptable Unacceptable
Clamping force should
be first felt in this range
18.38 When closed, the lever should be adjacent to,
90º 80º but not overlapping, the chain stay or seat stay.
[ ] If wheel has quick-release mechanism:
a) Flip lever from open position toward
Open Closed closed position and check if clamping force
is first encountered when lever is close to
pointing straight out (base of lever perpen-
Dropout dicular to dropout face). If dropouts are
wider than hub width, clamping force does
not begin until both dropouts are contacting
18.36 When properly set, as the lever swings from faces of axle hardware.
the open to closed position, clamping force should first b) If necessary, tighten or loosen adjusting
be felt when the base of the lever is 80–90° from the nut so that clamping force is first encountered
closed position (the base of the lever parallel to the when lever is close to pointing straight out
dropout face). (base of lever perpendicular to dropout face).
c) Flip lever to open position and rotate
Not closed Fully closed skewer so that when lever is flipped to closed
position, lever will end up adjacent to, but
not overlapping, seat stay or chain stay.
d) Close lever so that base of lever ends
up parallel to dropout or past point where
Parallel
it is parallel.
e) If unable to close lever fully (base of lever
parallel to dropout), open lever enough to be
able to turn adjusting nut and loosen adjusting
nut by very small increments until just able to
18.37 When closed, the base of the lever must be close lever to parallel-to-dropout position.
parallel to the dropout.
f) Check if rim is still centered as in step 16.
18. [ ] Center brake pads as necessary (see RIM
BRAKES page 36-1).
18 – 20
19. [ ] Pedal cranks to make sure chain is running 2. [ ] Thread in indicator unit as far as possible,
smoothly through derailleur and over free- but so that it can still point to origin of cable
wheel cogs, and shift chain to more-inner without being forced.
freewheel cog so that the bike will be in an 3. [ ] Operate shift mechanism so that it is in fully
easier gear in which to get started. released position (“3” on lever).
4. [ ] Attach threaded barrel on end of wire to
threaded stud on end of indicator unit, then
NON-DERAILLEUR-CHAIN turn barrel until slack is removed from cable.
TENSION Cable adjustment
1. [ ] Operate shifter so that it is in “N” or “2.”
If the chain tension is too tight, it will not operate
smoothly. If it is too loose, it will fall off. Because gears 2. [ ] Look in window of indicator guide (on end of
right axle) for end of indicator-unit shaft.
are not perfectly round, chain tension will vary depending
If shaft is not visible: Turn adjusting barrel to
on the point of rotation of the crank. Find the point at tighten cable until end of indicator shaft is
which the chain is tightest and adjust the wheel forward even with end of axle.
or backward until the chain will move up and down 1/2" If shaft is visible beyond end of axle: Turn
at the point halfway between the front and rear gears. adjusting barrel to loosen cable until end of
indicator shaft is even with end of axle.
3. [ ] While pedalling, operate shifter in all three
positions. If correct-length indicator unit is
installed and is correctly adjusted, hub shell
1/2"
will turn slower than rear cog in 1st gear, at
equal speed in 2nd gear (also called neutral),
and will turn faster than rear cog is 3rd gear.
NOTE: If indicator unit is too short or long for axle
length, at proper adjustment, hub will turn
18.39 The chain should have 1/2" of free play when faster or slower than rear cog in 2nd gear. Try
the crank has been rotated to the point that puts the
chain under the most tension.
following Trial-and-error adjustment procedure.
Trial-and-error adjustment
1. [ ] Start with cable very slack. Initially, moving
to position 2 should either cause no change
INTERNAL-GEAR HUBS or should cause the rear cog to front free-

wheel. If result is no change, adjust tighter by
When removing and installing a rear wheel with whole turns until front freewheeling occurs.
an internal-gear hub, the control cable must be discon- 2. [ ] Shift to position 3, then tighten cable by
nected, reconnected, and adjusted. This section covers 1 turn of adjusting barrel and check shift
these procedures for Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs, to position 2 again. Repeat until shifting to
Shimano 3-speed hubs, and Shimano Nexus (4-speed position 2 results in elimination of front free-
wheeling.
and 7-speed) hubs.
3. [ ] Once front freewheeling has been elimi-
The same procedures can also be utilized for adjust-
nated, release shifter and turn adjusting bar-
ing the control system when not removing or installing rel four more full turns.
the wheel. 4. [ ] Check for correct rotation of hub to rear
cog in all three gear selections. If 3 and 2
STURMEY ARCHER 3-SPEED work, but shifter cannot get to position 1,
then indicator shaft is unacceptably long and
Wheel removal must be replaced.
1. [ ] Operate shifter until it is in position “3”
(cable fully released), then backpedal.
2. [ ] Unthread cable adjuster from threaded shaft SHIMANO 3-SPEED
on end of indicator chain. Wheel removal
3. [ ] Loosen axle nuts and remove wheel. 1. [ ] Fully release lever, then unthread cable
Wheel installation adjuster from threaded shaft on bell crank.
1. [ ] Install wheel so protrusions on flatted wash- 2. [ ] Unthread bell crank from end of axle and
ers fit into dropout axle slots, then secure remove plunger shaft from axle.
axle nuts. 3. [ ] Loosen axle nuts and remove wheel.
18 – 21
Wheel installation
1. [ ] Install wheel and secure axle nuts.
2. [ ] Install plunger shaft into axle.
3. [ ] Thread on bell crank as far as possible, stop-
ping when threaded shaft points at cable
origin, then secure bell crank with lock nut.
Cable adjustment
1. [ ] Operate shifter until it is fully released (posi-
tion “H” or “3”).
2. [ ] Attach adjusting barrel on end of wire to
threaded shaft, then change shifter to sec-
ond position (N or 2).
3. [ ] Check for whether “N” mark on bell crank
is centered in bell-crank window. If not,
release shifter and adjust cable-adjusting
barrel. If bell-crank “N” is centered in bell-
crank window when shifter is in “N” or “2”
position, adjustment is good.
SHIMANO NEXUS
Wheel removal
1. [ ] Put shifter in 1st gear, then rotate shifting
plate counterclockwise. Pull cable-pinch
mechanism out slot in plate and pull cable
out of shifting plate and housing stop.
2. [ ] If hub has roller brake, move cable arm for-
ward. Snap cable pinch back in slot, then
push it out of caliper arm.
3. [ ] Unbolt brake arm from frame.
4. [ ] Loosen axle nuts and remove wheel.
Wheel installation
1. [ ] Install wheel, attach brake arm to frame,
then secure axle nuts.
3. [ ] If hub has roller brake, hook housing stop
into brake arm, then compress caliper arm
and re-attach cable pinch.
4. [ ] Seat shift wire and housing into housing
stop, then wrap wire under and around back
of shifting plate (seat wire in groove in plate).
5. [ ] Rotate shifting plate counterclockwise until
wire pinch can be engaged in slot in shifting
plate, then put shifter on red gear and check
that red mark on shifting plate lines up with
red mark on fixed plate.
Shift-cable adjustment
1. [ ] Secure pinch mechanism so there is 100mm
of bare wire between pinch mechanism and
end of housing.
2. [ ] With shifter on red gear, check whether
red marks on hub line up. If not, tighten
or loosen cable adjuster as necessary to
achieve line up of red marks when shifter is
on red gear.
18 – 22
WHEEL-REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Axle nuts or quick-release mechanism must be loosened further for wheel installation than
was required for removal.
Dropout spacing is too wide for hub width. Add spacers to axle set, or re-space the rear triangle
or fork blades.
SYMPTOM: Hands are needed to spread the dropouts in order to install the wheel.
Dropout spacing is too narrow for hub width. Remove spacers from axle set, or re-space the rear
triangle or fork blades.
SYMPTOM: Wheel will not center automatically between fork blades when fully installed.
Axle is bent. Remove wheel and inspect for bent axle.
Wheel is not properly dished. Remove wheel and inspect wheel dish.
Dropouts are different height. Live with the problem or use a file to change the axle
slot in the dropout until the wheel centers properly.
SYMPTOM: Wheel cannot be centered between chain stays on bike with rear-dropout vertical axle slots.
Chain stays are different lengths. Live with the problem or use a file to change the axle
SYMPTOM: Wheel does not center between seat stays when installed fully in rear-dropout vertical axle
slots or cannot be centered between seat stays at all (regardless of dropout type).
Dropouts are different height. Live with the problem or use a file to change the axle
SYMPTOM: When axle is rotated, wheel changes position between fork blades or rear stays.
SYMPTOM: Wheel changes position after being installed.
Quick-release axle protrudes past axle locknut Remove wheel and make sure that axle protrusion is
too far. less than dropout thickness.
Quick release or axle nuts not adequately Secure quick release or axle nuts properly.
secure.
Axle nuts need washers. Install washers between axle nuts and dropouts.
SYMPTOM: Wheel is difficult to install when dropout width is good and wheel-retention mechanisms
are adequately loose.
Dropouts badly misaligned. Check and align dropouts.
18 – 23
19 – TIRES AND TUBES
1 1
2 2
3 3
TIRE AND TUBE REMOVAL 19 – 3
PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTION 19 – 3
WHEEL REMOVAL 19 – 4
TIRE REMOVAL 19 – 4
TIRE AND TUBE INSPECTION, REPAIR, AND FIT 19 – 6
TUBE INSPECTION 19 – 6
TUBE REPAIR 19 – 7
CHECKING NEW INNER-TUBE FIT 19 – 8
CHANGING VALVE TYPES 19 – 9
TIRE INSPECTION 19 – 9
TIRE FIT AND COMPATIBILITY 19 – 10
TIRE INSTALLATION 19 – 11
INSTALLING A TIRE LINER 19 – 11
INSPECTING AND INSTALLING RIM STRIPS 19 – 12
INSTALLING TIRES AND TUBES 19 – 12
INFLATING AND SEATING TIRES 19 – 14
WHEEL INSTALLATION 19 – 15
UST TUBELESS TIRES 19 – 15
TIRE AND RIM SIZES 19 – 16
TIRE AND TUBE TROUBLESHOOTING 19 – 18
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER the tire bead has been dyed or because a coating on the
sidewall of the tire begins or ends at this point.
This chapter is about removing and installing tires and
Sidewall: The portion of the tire that starts at the
tubes, fixing a punctured inner tube, as well as installing a
outer perimeter of the rim and ends where the tread
replacement tire and/or tube.
begins. It may be fabric that is coated with so little rub-
ber that the coating is not apparent or it may be covered
with an obvious layer of rubber, such as a natural gum
GENERAL INFORMATION color, black, or other assorted colors.
Threads: The individual cloth fibers that make up
the carcass.
TERMINOLOGY Tire: The rubber, cloth, and wire construction that
Carcass: The structural body of the tire. The carcass touches the ground as you roll. A common misuse of the
consists primarily of a fabric of cloth threads that stretch term is to use “tire” to refer to the entire wheel, including
from one edge of the tire to the other. This fabric is gener- hub, spokes, rim, and tire.
ally impregnated with rubber. Tire bead: The edge of the tire that attaches to the
Inner tube: The rubber air bladder that is inside rim. The tire bead is usually metal wire but could be a
the tire. Kevlar cord. The wire or cord is wrapped in the hem of
Presta valve: A valve that is narrower than a Schrader the tire carcass.
valve and has a built-in nut that must be loosened or Tire liner: This tape-like strip that inhibits punctures
tightened to open or close the valve. The Presta valve is is an optional protective liner that goes between the inner
sometimes called a “European valve” or “French valve” tube and the tire. The tire liner is always plastic and is
(see figure 19.1). approximately as wide as the tread.
Schrader Presta Tread: The textured or smooth rubber on the outer
valve valve perimeter of the tire where the tire contacts the road.
Valve: The stem on the inner tube that air is pumped
Nut through to fill the inner tube. When the inner tube is
(loosen to open,
tighten to close) installed in the tire and the tire is installed on the rim, the
valve may appear to be attached to the rim, as it is on auto-
motive wheels, but it is always part of an inner tube.
PREREQUISITES
19.1 Schrader valve and Presta valve. Wheel removal and installation
In order to replace or service a tire or a tube, the
Rim strip: The tape-like strip that mounts between wheel should be removed from the bike. See the WHEEL
the inner tube and the rim. The rim strip’s function is to REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION chapter, if
protect the inner tube from damage by the rim and the unsure about wheel removal (page 18-6) and installation
spokes. Rim strips come in many forms; they may be rub- (page 18-14).
ber, plastic, cloth, or an adhesive cloth tape.
Schrader valve: The correct name for the common
bicycle inner-tube valve that is the same design as the one INDICATIONS
used on cars (see figure 19.1).
Seating line: About 1/4" to 3/8" above the bottom
Flat-tire repair
The tire and tube will need to be removed and re-
edge of the tire is the seating line. This is usually a molded
installed in order to fix a flat. It is important to keep in
rubber line but may be nothing more than a color change
mind that all tires lose air gradually, even without a punc-
between the edge of the carcass hem and the sidewall of
ture. The fact that the tire has lost pressure does not always
the tire. The color change might be because a portion of
19 – 1
indicate that it is flat. Depending on the type and weight
of rubber that the tube is made of, this loss could amount
COMPLICATIONS
to just a few pounds a week or as much as 20 pounds a Difficult tire removal
day (lightweight latex tubes). Shops should have a policy Tires may be difficult to remove because of a tight fit
of airing virtually all tires to the recommended pressure or because of tire adhesion to the rim. If you are having
when a repair is checked in. This way, the mechanic can trouble getting a tire off the rim, deflate the tube fully by
check for pressure loss when starting the job. However, squeezing the tire while the valve is open. Push the tire
there is little point in attempting to inflate a tire that has away from the rim bead all the way around on both sides
an obvious object sticking out of it. to eliminate adhesion.
There is another reason that tires might lose pressure Difficult tire installation
and not be punctured. This is because some valves come Tires can be difficult to install for several reasons: The
loose from the factory or develop looseness from age. In tire may simply be too tight a fit, there may be too much air
these cases, the valve just needs to be tightened. The TIRE in the tube, the tube or rim strip may be caught under the tire
AND TUBE REMOVAL procedure (page 19-3) starts with a bead, the rim strip may be too bulky for a tight-fitting tire,
check for a loose valve before going to the trouble of or the tube may be too large for the tire cross-section.
removing the wheel and tire.
Pinch flats on installation
Worn and damaged tires Pinch flats can occur during installation when tire
The following list covers several of the symptoms that levers are used incorrectly.
might be detected and would lead to replacing a tire:
Tread on road-bike tires worn to the point that car- Directional tread patterns
cass threads are showing or are about to show Many tires have directional tread designs. Look for
Knobs on off-road bike tires worn to the point directional arrows and notations to avoid installing the
that they cause loss of traction same tire twice.
Tread develops cracks from age and exposure to High-seating bead section
the elements Sometimes a portion of the tire bead seats higher
Cuts in the tire that are through the rubber and on the rim than the rest of the tire. When you spin the
have damaged threads in the carcass wheel, you may see what appears to be a lump in the tire.
Abrasions in the tire’s sidewall that have damaged Chances are this condition will lead to a blowout. Newly
threads in the carcass installed tires should be checked carefully for this condi-
Bulges or distortions in the tire’s shape (when tion. Causes may be the tube or rim strip caught under the
inflated) that indicate hidden carcass damage tire bead, the valve-stem base caught under the tire bead,
a damaged bead, poor fit, or a low-seating area elsewhere
Wheel truing, replacement, and rebuilding on the same side.
The tire needs to be removed and reinstalled
to do any wheel truing, wheel rebuilding, or wheel Low-seating bead section
replacement. When a portion of the tire bead sits too low on the rim,
the tire has a flat spot. The low spot encourages a high spot
elsewhere, which can lead to a blowout. The causes usually
TOOL CHOICES are low inflation or a high-seating area elsewhere.
The only tools required are tire levers, pump or com-
pressor, and pressure gauges. All choices are adequate and Tire will not stay mounted
any personal preference is fine, but the Park #TL-10 is If the tire is seated properly at full inflation and then
an exceptional tire removal and installation tool that is a develops high-seating areas or blows off the rim, the tire
time- and effort-saving alternative to traditional tire levers. bead is probably damaged. Check for damage and replace
Downhill MTB tires and BMX freestyle tires require heavy- the tire if the bead is damaged.
duty tire levers made specifically for these types of tires.
ABOUT THE REST
TIME AND DIFFICULTY OF THIS CHAPTER
Tire removal and reinstallation is a 4–6 minute job The next part of this chapter assumes the most complex
of little difficulty. Patching a tube might take additional variation of the job being done, including removing a tire,
1–3 minutes. patching an inner tube, replacing the tube (perhaps because
19 – 2
the patch failed), solving problems with the rim strip, replac-
ing the tire with a non-identical tire, installing a tire liner,
and installing the tire. The following procedures for tire
and tube service are divided into clear sections for each
of these, so if doing a less-complex job (removing and
reinstalling a tire in order to true a wheel, for example),
simply skip over the inappropriate sections. After the
procedures for conventional tires, there is a procedure 19.4 This sidewall was damaged by a brake pad.
for UST standard tubeless tires. 0d. [ ] If tire will hold air, inflate and check for
At the end of the chapter is a table of rim and tire bulges or deformations in tire’s shape that
sizes and a troubleshooting chart. would indicate there are cut or ruptured tire-
carcass threads, hidden or not. Replace tire
if damaged threads are found.
Bulge
TIRE AND TUBE REMOVAL

700C x 25
PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTION
Inspecting for leaks, rubbing tires, and
damaged tires 19.5 The bulge in this tire indicates that the carcass
0a. [ ] If tire will hold air, inflate and inspect valve threads are damaged and separating.
core for leaks. Tighten (Schrader valve
only) if leaking. Inspecting tread wear
Determining if the tread is worn out is a subjective
Soap bubble indicates valve leak
process. It differs for tires used on pavement and tires
used off road.
Road tires come with textured-tread and smooth-tread
(bald or slick) designs. In either wet or dry conditions,
the texture pattern is non-essential for traction, because
bicycle tires do not hydroplane. The function of a tread
pattern on an auto tire is to reduce hydroplaning. (Hydro-
planing happens when a tire floats on the surface of the
water; grooves in the tread allow the water to escape from
under the tire. Automobile tires hydroplane because they
19.2 Smear a liquid (liquid soap) on top of the valve. If have less load-per-square-inch of road contact than bicycle
it bubbles up, the valve core needs to be tightened. tires. This is not to say that a bicycle is not more likely to
0b. [ ] If tire will hold air, inflate and inspect tread for slide on wet pavement than on dry pavement; wet pave-
cuts that have damaged threads in carcass. ment causes bicycles to slide simply because the water
Replace tire if damaged threads are found. changes the coefficient of friction of the pavement and
Tread not cut to carcass Tread cut through to carcass the tire, not because of hydroplaning.) It is quite normal
for a tire with a tread pattern to develop a smooth strip
down the middle before the tire has seen many miles.
The fact that the texture has worn off is not in itself an
indication that the tire is shot. However, when the wear
is getting bad, the bald section will become noticeably
wider. If the tire has an obvious “flat top” that covers the
19.3 Cuts in the rubber are no problem, but cuts that majority of the tread width (seen when looking in-line with
go through the rubber into carcass threads mean the tire
should be replaced.
the tire, sighting across the top of the tire), then it’s time
for a new tire. Looking for this wide “flat top” is the best
0c. [ ] If tire will hold air, inflate and spin wheel way to determine whether a treadless tire is getting worn
to check for tire rubbing on brake pads
out. When the tire is off, feel the thickness and flexibility
or frame tubes. Replace tire if damaged
threads are found. at the center of the tread. If the tire is obviously thinner
19 – 3
and much more flexible in the center of the tread than at
the edges, wear is advanced.
TIRE REMOVAL
In the next step, mark the tire and valve in a specific
The issues are different with knobby off-road tires.
way before removing them. By laying the tube on the tire
The height and definition of the knobs create traction.
in the orientation they had when both were mounted on
When knobs are worn in the center of the tread, it affects
the wheel, then it will be clear which section of the tire is
braking and climbing traction. When knobs are worn on
likely to have the cause of the flat. Since a large part of
the outer portion of the tread, it affects cornering trac-
successful flat repair is preventing the next flat, this local-
tion. Knobs wear two ways: They get shorter, and they get
ized cause search is valuable in and of itself.
rounded off. With the wheel on the bike and looking at
However, after searching the specific area of the tire,
the top of the wheel, check whether the center knobs are
a thorough inspection of the tire is recommended. For
rounded on the front or back edges. If the tire shows wear
example, if the reason for the flat was a piece of glass,
on the leading edges (rear wheel only), climbing traction
then the rider probably ran through a patch of glass. It
is affected. If worn on the trailing edges, braking traction
is quite likely that there are several pieces of glass in the
is affected. If the center section knobs just appear short
tire, but only one has penetrated far enough to cause a
compared to the others, then they are simply worn out
flat, so far. A grease pencil/crayon or a regular ball-point
from miles and all types of traction are affected. If the
pen can be used to mark on rubber.
knobs on the outer portion of the tread appear worn, 1. [ ] Use a crayon or felt marker to mark tire
cornering traction is affected. sidewall on right side at valve and also mark
If the tread does not appear worn out and there are valve stem on right side.
no damaged carcass threads, it does not necessarily mean There are two basic valve types, Schrader (same as valve
the tire is fine. Later, when the tire is removed, it should on car tires) and Presta (European style, narrower).
be inspected for age rot, one of the most common reasons The Schrader valve has a small plunger in the top
for tire replacement. that must be depressed for air to escape. This plunger
Exposed carcass threads is pushed up by a spring (hidden beneath the plunger),
which is what keeps the valve closed, even when there is
no air pressure in the tube. This plunger, the spring, and
700C x 25 the piece they are both built into are collectively called the
valve core. The valve core can be threaded in and out of
the valve stem using a valve-core tool.
Low, rounded knobs The Presta valve also has a little plunger but no spring
hidden inside to keep the valve closed. Instead, there is a
small knurled nut on top of the plunger. When this nut is
threaded down (with fingers), the plunger is pulled up and
26 x 1.95 the valve is held closed. When the nut is threaded up, then
the plunger can be pushed down with a finger to release
air from the tube. Just below the plunger nut are the valve
threads, onto which the valve cap screws. On rare occasions,
19.6 The exposed carcass threads indicate this road there will be two wrench flats in these threads. In this case,
tire is worn out, and the rounded knobs indicate this
MTB tire is worn out. the valve core is removable, and it may need to be tightened
to prevent the valve core from leaking. A small, adjustable
0e. [ ] Rotate wheel slowly and inspect tread wear
wrench is adequate to tighten a Presta valve core.
around whole tire.
0f. [ ] Inspect for and remove foreign objects in
Either valve type may be partially rubber coated or may be
tread such as thorns, glass, tacks, wire, etc. an exposed threaded-metal shaft that is threaded all the way to
Replace tire if damaged threads are found. the rim. When the valve is threaded, then a valve-retaining nut
is often used. This nut is threaded (by fingers only) down
against the rim. The only function of the valve-retaining
WHEEL REMOVAL nut is to keep the valve from escaping into the rim when
0g. [ ] See REMOVING A FRONT OR REAR WHEEL steps trying to press a pump head onto the valve. Valve-retaining
1–16 (page 18-6). nuts are also reputed to prevent movement between the tire
and tube under hard braking conditions (and thus prevent
the valve from separating from the tube) but the real cause
19 – 4
of this problem is under-inflation, and nothing will reduce
the problem other than higher inflation pressures.
2. [ ] Remove valve cap (if any), remove valve-
stem-retaining nut (if any), and loosen valve
nut (if Presta valve).
3. [ ] Deflate tire, if not already deflated.
19.9 Insert a third tire lever about two spokes away

from the second, lever it down, and attempt to slide
the tire lever around the rim away from the second tire
lever, all the way to the valve.
6. [ ] Two spokes clockwise from second tire
lever, insert third tire lever under edge of
tire, lever tire out of rim, and slide tire lever
19.7 Insert a tire lever under the right tire bead and lever clockwise around rim to unseat tire bead
down until the lever can be hooked onto a right-side spoke.
from rim. If tire lever will not slide, hook
4. [ ] On right side of wheel, 180° away from valve it to spoke, remove second tire lever, and
(at a point where a right-side spoke joins rim), insert second lever two spokes past third
insert tire lever under edge of tire and lever tire lever and try sliding it. Continue to leapfrog
out of rim, hooking tire lever onto spoke. second and third levers in this fashion until a
lever can be inserted and slid around rim.
19.8 Insert a second tire lever two spokes away from

the first and hook it onto a spoke. 19.10 Unhook the first tire lever from the spoke and
slide it around the rim the opposite way back to the valve.
5. [ ] Two spokes clockwise from first tire lever,
insert second tire lever under edge of tire, lever 7. [ ] Unhook first tire lever from spoke and slide
tire out of rim, and hook tire lever onto spoke. counterclockwise around rim back to valve.
19 – 5
do less than 1 minute to apply the glue and the patch and
then inspect whether the patch is good. The real time that
is required comes from searching for the hole in the tube.
When shops don’t patch tubes (citing the economy), it is
a good bet that they don’t inspect the old tube. Inspecting
the old tube should never be skipped, because this is one
of the best ways to determine the cause of the flat (and
prevent its reoccurrence). Regardless of whether your
shop does or doesn’t patch tubes, don’t skip inspecting
the old tube. (While we are on this subject, patching tubes
is a highly efficient form of recycling of a product made
from a non-renewable resource.)
10. Perform following steps (in order) until leak is
found, then ignore remaining steps:
[ ] Attempt to inflate tube and listen for leaking
19.11 Opposite the valve, pull the tube out of the tire. air to find hole.
[ ] If tube is holding air easily, over-inflate tube
8. [ ] 180° away from valve, pull inner tube out of
to enlarge puncture and make it easier to
tire and continue to pull until all of inner tube
find. Tubes can easily be over-inflated until
is out of tire. Finish by pulling valve out of rim.
they are twice as fat as their inflated and
un-expanded size.
[ ] If leak is not audible, rotate tube with outer
perimeter close to cheek or tip of nose to feel
for fine streams of air that cannot be heard.
[ ] Submerge tube in water to look for bubbles
rising from tube to find hole if all other tech-
niques have failed to find hole.
11. [ ] Mark hole (with crayon or ball-point pen)
with an X or cross that extends an inch in
every direction from middle of hole.
12. Inspect hole and check off one or more of fol-
lowing choices to find and eliminate cause
of puncture:
[ ] Puncture is a single or multiple pin hole in
outer perimeter of tube. Inspect tire for
thorns, tacks, or small wires.
19.12 Use a tire lever to lift the second bead over the
same side of the rim as the first bead.
9. [ ] Use tire lever to lift second bead over same
side of rim as first bead.
TIRE AND TUBE INSPEC- Slice V-cut
TION, REPAIR, AND FIT

TUBE INSPECTION 19.13 Cuts like these should mean inspecting the tire
Many bike shops do not do tube repair. The reason for glass, a nail, or some other large foreign object.
they give is that it is more economical to just replace the
tube. It is possible that they reach this conclusion by taking [ ] Puncture is a cut or slit on outer perimeter.
Inspect tire for glass, nail, or other large for-
short cuts that should not be taken when installing a new
eign objects.
tube. The process of putting a patch on a tube is not time
consuming, in itself. It takes a mechanic that knows what to
19 – 6
700C x 25
Parallel slits
Scuffed bead lip Exposed bead wire
(exposed threads) (torn threads)
19.16 These abrasions and tears on the tire bead

could lead to another blowout.
19.14 Two parallel slits on the side of the tube indi- NOTE: If tube will be replaced, go to CHECKING NEW
cate that the tire has been bottomed out and the tube INNER-TUBE FIT (page 19-8). If not repairing or
has been pinched between the rim and the riding surface replacing inner tube, go to TIRE INSPECTION (page
or that a tire-removal tool has been used improperly. 19-9). If not repairing or replacing inner tube
[ ] Puncture is a pair of horizontal, parallel slits but installing a new tire, go to TIRE FIT AND COM-
on side of inner tube. Inspect for rim-bead PATIBILITY (page 19-10). If simply reinstalling
damage. Keep tires better inflated and avoid the original tube and tire, go to INSPECTING AND
hitting obstacles on riding surface. INSTALLING RIM STRIPS (page 19-12).
TUBE REPAIR
Many bike shops do not patch tubes. The usual excuse
is that it is not financially sensible. Although this argument
has some holes in it, there is a more important issue at
stake. The variety of tubes out there in the real world
usually exceeds the variety of stock of tubes that a bike
Blowout
shop has on hand. Given the choice between installing a
tube that is not a good match or patching a tube that has
a minor puncture, it is preferable to patch the tube. For
this reason, a mechanic should know how to patch tubes
in a way that will make the patched tube as reliable as a
replacement tube. A well-done patch job will successfully
repair a simple puncture. Slits, tears, multiple punctures,
19.15 This blown-out tube was caused by either a and seam failures cannot be reliably patched.
large hole in the tire or a tire-mounting failure.
There are several brands of good patch kits on the
[ ] Puncture is a large shredded hole. Inspect market and they all have one thing in common: The
tire for large holes and tire bead for damage patches have feathered edges. This is easy to see, because
from being blown off rim.
the perimeter of the patch will be a different color than
[ ] Puncture is a pin hole or slit on inner
perimeter of tube. Inspect rim strip for posi-
the center of the patch. Feathered patches are not only
tion problem or failure. Inspect inside of rim better quality and more suited to lightweight bicycle
for sharp burrs. Inspect spokes for protrud- tubes, they are a lot easier to use. This is because the
ing through nipple heads. patch is laminated between a layer of foil and a layer of
[ ] Puncture is a cut in rubber at base of valve. cellophane. The foil protects the adhesive side of the
Install tube so valve is straight and keep tire patch and the cellophane provides something to hold
fully inflated to prevent tire creep around rim. onto without touching the adhesive once the foil has
[ ] Puncture is a failure of seam where the ends been peeled. The old standby brand is REMA, but several
of tube are joined together to make a circle. other companies now make feathered patches.
Inspect whether tube size is too small for fat-
ness or diameter of tire (see figure 19.16).
19 – 7
Keep these following tips in mind to insure a suc-
cessful patch job:
CHECKING NEW INNER-TUBE FIT
It would seem that tube fit would simply be a matter
Don’t miss the hole. If the hole is well marked by
of putting a tube inside a tire of the same nominal size.
an X or cross that is larger than the size of the
Because tire nominal sizes are not exact measurements
patch, then it is less likely the hole will be near
and because tire manufacturers “play” with reality for
the edge of the patch. marketing reasons, the marking on the tire does not
Roughing the tube up eliminates surface contami- accurately say how wide the tire is. The size number
nation and creates a rough surface, which helps the (27", 700C, 26") is generally accurate, but there are several
glue adhere to the tube. Do a thorough job. sizes that are easily confused and not interchangeable and
Gluing needs to be thorough, but don’t overdo it. there are dissimilar-named sizes that are interchangeable.
Use a thin layer that evenly extends slightly past The 26"×1-3/8" size sounds similar to a tube that might
the area the patch will cover. A lumpy buildup be marked 26"×1.5" & 1.75" but these numbers come
creates a greater likelihood of patch failure. from completely different sizing systems, and the two 26"
Starting with plenty of glue and smearing it are not at all the same. On the other hand, 27" and 700C
around quickly as far as necessary to get the don’t sound at all alike but with regards to tube fit, they
covering thin will achieve the best result. Putting are fully interchangeable.
on a little, finding that it’s not enough, then add- Another factor that further complicates tube fit is
ing more after the first application has partially that tubes are simply inconsistent. I have seen two brands
dried is asking for trouble. of tubes marked 700C×25 vary in width by as much as
13. [ ] Use emery cloth (usually comes with patch 50%. Use the marked designation of the tire to determine
kit) to rough up an area around hole that is which tube to use, but then perform these simple tests to
slightly larger than the patch. confirm that it is a good fit.
14. [ ] Use rubber buffer to clean roughed area. 23. [ ] Inflate tube until it has shape but is not
15. [ ] Put dime-sized blob of glue on hole and use
expanded.
finger to spread glue out thoroughly. Glued
area must be at least slightly larger than Inflated (but not expanded) tube
patch to be applied.
16. [ ] To speed glue drying, inflate tube if possible
until it is expanded.
17. [ ] Deflate tube if it was expanded in previous
step.
18. [ ] When glue is dry, peel foil-back off patch,
being careful not to touch exposed surface
of patch, center patch over hole, and apply
to tube.
19. [ ] Roll a screwdriver handle back and forth
over patch, or apply pressure in some other
way, to get patch to stick well. Cellophane
on patch (if any) can be left in place or may
be removed. 19.17 The fact that the inflated tube is narrower than
the inside width of the rim suggests it will be too small
20. With tube mostly inflated, check for:
for the tire.
[ ] Patch security (edges not peeling up)
[ ] Leaks coming from edge of patch 24. Place tube on rim and check for following
[ ] Other leaks elsewhere in tube symptoms that tube is too small:
21. [ ] Deflate tube just enough so that it still has [ ] If tube needs to be stretched to fit on rim it
shape but is not expanded at all. is too small.
22. [ ] Optional: Use talcum powder, tire talc, or [ ] If tube is skinnier than inside width of rim,
cornstarch on patched area to neutralize tube is too small.
glue past edges of patch, so tube will not If several fingers can fit between the tube and rim, it
stick to inside of tire. is normal. The tube should be installed in a tire, not the
NOTE: If inner tube has been patched, go to TIRE
rim, to be checked for being too large.
INSPECTION (page 19-9). If installing a new tire,
go to TIRE FIT AND COMPATIBILITY (page 19-10).
If simply reinstalling the original tube and tire,
go to INSPECTING AND INSTALLING RIM STRIPS (page
19-12).
19 – 8
CHANGING VALVE TYPES

26. [ ] If replacing Presta valve with Schrader
valve, ream or drill rim hole to >9mm.
27. [ ] If replacing a Schrader valve with a Presta
valve, valve grommet should be installed in
rim to reduce hole size and restrict entry of
dirt into rim.
TIRE INSPECTION
When the tire was still on the wheel, it was inspected for
external damage and wear. Now it needs further inspections
that are best done while the tire is off the rim.
The first of these inspections is for age rot. Rubber
deteriorates with age, and this will show up in the tread
of a tire as thousands of hairline cracks that appear more
obviously when squeezing the tread. The tread is a primary
factor in puncture resistance. Each of these cracks is like
having an open door in a fortress wall. These cracks make
19.18 If the tube has doubled over to fit in the tire, it the tire more vulnerable to punctures, particularly from
is too large.
glass. The tread also protects the carcass threads from
25. Place tube inside of tire and check for following exposure to the elements. With cracks in the tread, there
symptoms that tube is too large: is a greater chance of these threads deteriorating, leading
[ ] If tube has doubled over itself to fit inside to more stone bruises (carcass threads ruptured by sharp
tire, diameter of tube is too large for tire.
stones) and blowouts.
28. [ ] Squeeze sides of tire together and inspect
tread for hairline cracks that open up when
tire is squeezed.
Inflated (but not expanded) tube
29. [ ] If tube was punctured, place tube on tire
with valve lined up with mark (from step 1)
on right sidewall and with sidewall and valve
marks both facing up. Find the puncture and
Tire closely inspect the tire 3" either way from
the puncture for foreign objects.
30.[ ] Visually inspect inside of tire for foreign
objects (thorns, wire, glass, etc.) and
remove them.
After a thorough visual inspection of the inside of the
tire, use your fingertips to feel for foreign objects. The
19.19 The inflated tube will not fit inside the tire. The visual inspection should have detected anything that could
tube is too fat. cut fingers. The feel test will find small thorns, more than
[ ] If tube is fatter than tire height (viewing anything else. Out here in eastern Colorado, we have small
tire from side, tube extends beyond inner cactus thorns that are as thin as hairs. They cannot be seen
perimeter of tire all way around tire), tube is but they certainly can be detected by feel. If you want to
too fat for tire. be cautious, use a rag instead of your fingers. Most thorns
NOTE: If inner tube has been replaced, go to and staples will catch on a rag, but you’re sure to miss a
CHANGING VALVE TYPES (immediately following). If few that fingers would find.
inner tube has been replaced with one of same 31. [ ] Stroke inside of tire softly and carefully with
valve type, go to TIRE INSPECTION (page 19-9). fingertips to find thorns or other small for-
If installing a new tire, go to TIRE FIT AND COM- eign objects that might have been missed by
PATIBILITY (page 19-10). If simply reinstalling visual inspection and remove them.
the original tube and tire, go to INSPECTING AND 32. [ ] Visually inspect inside of tire for damaged
INSTALLING RIM STRIPS (page 19-12). threads in the carcass. Replace tire if any
threads are cut.
19 – 9
33. [ ] Inspect tire beads for abrasions and delami- Flange height Flange height
nation, especially if tube was blown out.
Replace tire if problems are found.
NOTE: If installing a new tire, go to TIRE FIT AND
Bead seats
COMPATIBILITY (page 19-10). If simply reinstalling
the original tube and tire, go to INSPECTING AND
INSTALLING RIM STRIPS (page 19-12).
Rim diameter
19.20 Measure the rim’s outside diameter and sub-
TIRE FIT AND COMPATIBILITY tract the flange height twice to calculate the ISO bead-
Nothing is any more confusing on the bicycle than seat diameter.
tire and rim sizes. The basic confusion is that the sizes The first part of the ISO number refers to the
consist of numbers that sound as though they might be width of the tire or rim. With regard to the rim, this
measurements of the rim and tire. It would seem to make is simply a measurement between the rim flanges (see
sense that these measurements relate to the dimensions figure 19.21, page 19-11). For the tire, the measure-
of the rim and tire where these two parts attach to each ment is not so simple. Because tire fatness changes
other, but with the exception of the new and rarely used with rim size, inflation pressure, and whether the tire is
ISO designations, the numbers have nothing to do with installed or not, the ISO started its tire-width number
the measurements of the tire and rim where they attach by measuring the only constant there is in regard to tire
to each other. width—its width when flattened (see figure 19.22, page
Traditional tire sizes were measurements of the out- 19-11). This flattened width is a very unfamiliar number
side diameter of the tread of the tire (size) and the fatness (the very narrow 700C×21 tires have flattened widths
of the tire when mounted and inflated on the rim (width). of close to 50mm). The ISO chose to divide the flat-
Although these numbers might have been close to reality tened width by an arbitrary constant of 2.5 to convert
when they were created, tires have changed their shape flattened width to ISO section width so that ISO’s width
and proportions without changing their dimensions at number might be a more familiar number.
the interface to the rim many times since this system of The advantage of the ISO approach to tire and rim
categorization was created. Rims are named by the size width is that whether a tire’s width is compatible with a
of the tire that fits it, and this is why a 26" MTB rim mea- rim’s width can easily be measured and calculated. For
sures approximately 22.5". To further complicate matters, any given rim, the tire’s section width can be between 1.4
sometimes there is more than one name for a size. The and 2.0 (road bikes) or 1.4 and 3.0 (MTBs) times the
700C size was developed in France and is a metric size. rim’s inside width. When the tire width is outside the
Canadian companies copied the size but gave it their own range created by multiplying these factors by the rim’s
name, 28"×1-1/2". To further confuse matters, this is a inside width, then handling may be compromised, tires
smaller size than the familiar 27" (British in origin). may be damaged by the brake pads, the wheel may be
To solve this problem, there are now ISO (International difficult to remove, or the rim may be more vulnerable
Standards Organization) sizes, which are based on measure- to damage. If the ISO width information is not used
ments of the tire and rim that relate to how these two parts and the mechanic relies on traditional size information
fit together. These measurements are metric. Traditional alone, then all the problems listed above are risked.
tire sizes have always listed size followed by width, such In the following steps, “size” refers to the overall
as 27" (size) × 1-1/4" (width) or 700C (size) × 25 (width). diameter of the wheel and “width” refers to how fat the
So that ISO sizes will not be confused with traditional sizes, tire and rim are.
they list width, then size. The ISO equivalent of a 700C×25 34. Determine rim size by one or all of following
tire would be 20-622. The ISO equivalent of a 26"×1.75" choices:
rim would be 20-559. In both cases, the second three-digit [ ] Look up rim size on sticker or engraved on
part of the number refers to the bead diameter. On the tire, rim. Enter here: __________
this number is simply the diameter at the inside perimeter. [ ] Convert ISO size marked on rim to conven-
On the rim, this number is the diameter at the point on the tional size by looking in ISO size column on
TIRE AND RIM SIZES table (page 19-17) and
rim where the tire bead sits, in which case it is called the
read across to Nominal size column.
bead-seat diameter (see figure 19.20). Enter here: __________
19 – 10
[ ] Determine ISO size of rim and convert to con- there could be a squirmy feel in the handling, depending
ventional size by measuring exact rim diam- on the tire design and the air pressure.
eter and subtracting flange height twice to The following steps determine whether the new
determine ISO size. Then look in ISO size col- tire is within the range of widths that is acceptable on
umn on TIRE AND RIM SIZES table (page 19-17) the rim.
and read across to Nominal size column. Enter
ISO size here: __________ Inside rim width
[ ] Measure outside diameter of rim and look up
size by finding measurement on TIRE AND RIM
SIZES table (page 19-17) in the Approximate rim
O.D. column and reading across to Nominal size
column. Enter here: __________
35. Determine size of new tire by one or all of fol-
lowing choices:
19.21 Rim width is measured between the flanges.
[ ] Look on sidewall of tire or molded in edge
of tread for nominal size description. Enter 37. [ ] Use caliper to measure inside width of rim.
here: __________ Record measurement here: __________
[ ] Look on sidewall of tire or molded in edge of Flattened width between beads
tread for ISO size description. Enter here:
__________ Cross-section of flattened tire
[ ] Use TIRE AND RIM SIZES table (page 19-17) to 19.22 Flatten the tire and measure bead-to-bead to
convert ISO size to Nominal size or Nominal size determine flattened width.
to ISO size in order to compare tire’s size to
rim’s size, whichever nomenclature is used. 38. [ ] Measure width from bead to bead (edge to
Enter here: __________ edge) of tire (flattened as best possible) and
36. [ ] Check that tire size and rim size are com- record width here: __________
patible by comparing steps 34 and 35. 39. [ ] Divide answer in step 38 by 2.5 to
Assuming that the tire is being replaced with one of determine “section width” and record
the same size category and the old rim will be reused, if the answer here: __________
40. [ ] Multiply rim inside width from step 37 by 1.4
new tire is a different width, check if the tire is compatible
to determine narrowest acceptable “section
with the rim width. In everyone’s mind, tire selection should
width” and record answer here: __________
simply be a matter of matching the named width of the 41. [ ] Multiply rim inside width from step 37 by
rim with the named width of the tire, and all 26" MTB tires 2.0 (road bikes) or 3.0 (MTBs) to determine
should be compatible with all 26" MTB rims. However, for widest acceptable “section width” and
any size (such as 26" MTB) there are a variety of rim widths record answer here: __________
and a variety of tire widths. To complicate matters further, 42. Check one of following choices:
the actual width for two rims that are named the same can [ ] Step 39 is included in range of steps 40 and
be quite different. The same is true of tires. If combining 41, so tire width is ideal for rim.
the narrowest of rims with the widest of tires in a given [ ] Step 39 is outside of range of steps 40 and
size group, or vice versa, then there may be a problem. 41, so tire width is potentially unacceptable
There are a few simple measurements that can be taken for rim (see TIRE FIT AND COMPATIBILITY on page
and calculations that can be made to determine whether 19-10 for description of possible problems).
the tire width is acceptable to use with the rim.
If the tire is too narrow for the rim, there are several
consequences. The height profile of the tire will be too
low, which can lead to more rim damage and more pinch
flats. Also, the shape of the tire will be deformed in a way
TIRE INSTALLATION
that reduces cornering performance (particularly on road
bikes). If the tire is too wide for the rim, there may be INSTALLING A TIRE LINER
different consequences. If the bike has cantilever brakes, a
(OPTIONAL)
common occurrence with a tire that is too wide for the rim 43. [ ] Roll tire liner out on inside of tire.
is that the brake pads end up rubbing on the tire, resulting 44. [ ] Overlap the liner over itself and tape excess
in its premature demise. When a tire that is too wide is down, but do not cut off excess (sharp edge
installed on a road bike, the brake pads may still not clear left by cut may cut tube).
the tire, even with the quick release all the way open. Also 45. [ ] Use masking tape to hold tire liner centered
on road bikes, when this rim-and-tire combination is used, under tread (optional).
19 – 11
INSPECTING AND INSTALLING 52. [ ] Place tube inside tire with valve adjacent to
pressure rating on side of tire.
RIM STRIPS 53. [ ] Stand wheel on table or floor with valve hole
at 12:00, with wheel’s right side facing you.
The rim strip protects the tube from the rim, the spoke
nipples, and the spokes. Problems with the rim strip are In the next step, be careful not to jam the rim strip
often the cause of “mystery” flats. There is a common through the rim hole with the valve. If necessary, lift the
type of rim called a “modular” or “double-wall” rim. The rim strip up, insert the valve through the rim strip, then
characteristic of this rim is that the tube rests on one wall put the valve (with rim strip already on it) into the valve
of the rim and holes are drilled in this wall for access to hole in the rim (see figure 19-23).
the spoke nipples. Sometimes these holes are filled with
reinforcing sockets called ferrules. The problem with this 700C x 25
rim type is that the rim strip can appear to cover these
holes adequately when the tire and tube are off, but when
the tire and tube are installed and under pressure the rim
2
strip sinks down into the nipple access hole, exposing the
sharp edges of the hole to the tube. Rim strip
Bicycle manufacturers are often ignorant of this and 1
supply bikes with this rim type and include inexpensive

black-rubber rim strips that are too elastic. Other publica-
tions often mention using strapping tape as an alternative.
3
Strapping tape is known to crack easily and allow the tube Rim valve hole
to go into the nipple-access holes (causing flats). Adhesive 19.23 1) Lift the rim strip out of the rim. 2) Insert the
cloth rim strips and polyurethane rim strips do the best job. valve through the rim strip. 3) Insert the valve into the
Polyurethane rim strips are thin and smooth (makes tire valve hole.
installation easier), elastic enough for easy installation and 54. [ ] Place valve into valve hole (being careful
removal, resistant to cracking, and stiff enough that they not to jam the rim strip through the valve
do not deflect down into the nipple-access hole. In either hole). Tire should have directional arrow (if
case, the challenge is getting the correct-width rim strip. any) pointing in the direction of rotation. If
Too narrow and the slightest shift of the rim strip exposes unsure, put tire’s label on right side.
the spoke access holes. Too wide and the rim strip overlaps
the rim’s bead seat, interfering with proper mounting of the
tire. Polyurethane rim strips that are too wide can be cut
down to size with scissors.
46. [ ] Inspect that rim strip completely covers all 1 1
spoke-nipple heads or all access holes to spoke
nipples. Adjust or replace as necessary.
47. [ ] Inspect that rim strip has no tears, cuts, or
splits. Replace rim strip if damaged.
48. [ ] Inspect that rim strip is not twisted. Adjust
as necessary.
49. [ ] Inspect that rim strip does not overlap rim 2 2
bead seat (part of rim on which tire bead
sits). Adjust or replace as necessary.
50. [ ] If replacing rim strip, insert valve, pencil, or
#2 Phillips screwdriver through rim-strip valve
3 3
hole and rim valve hole to keep holes aligned,
then stretch rim strip around rest of rim.
Check that rim strip is correctly positioned.
19.24 Use your hands to work the back bead into the
rim at the valve, then at the #1 positions, then at the #2
INSTALLING TIRES AND TUBES positions, and then at the #3 positions.
51. [ ] Inflate tube so that it has shape but is not 55. [ ] Starting at valve, work back bead into rim
expanded. with both hands simultaneously, working
down toward 6:00 position.
19 – 12
56. [ ] When bead gets difficult to install, turn wheel
over so that valve is at 6:00 and remaining
uninstalled portion of back bead is near 12:00. 700C x 25
19.27 When the second bead is mostly in the rim,

stop to press the valve into the tire.
62. [ ] Seat valve by pushing it as far as it will
19.25 Lever the bead onto the rim, using the tire lever go into tire to prevent valve base from
in the same orientation as when bead was removed. becoming lodged under tire beads.
57. [ ] Holding tire bead firmly to rim with one 63. [ ] Turn wheel over so that valve is at 6:00
hand, use a tire lever from one end of the position and continue to work bead into rim
uninstalled portion to lever bead of tire with fingers until it becomes too difficult.
over rim until bead is completely installed A common problem when installing tires is to pinch
between rim flanges. the tube with the tire lever when installing the second bead.
58. [ ] Deflecting tire toward center of rim, inspect For this reason, a lot of “authorities” say never to use a tire
all around wheel for rim strip that has been lever to install a tire, insisting that a “real” mechanic can
pushed out of place or section of tube always install a tire with fingers alone. There is no reason
caught under installed bead of tire. not to try using just fingers, but when this method doesn’t
59. [ ] With wheel horizontal, use fingers to work
work, it is important to know how to use a tire tool without
tube between rim flanges all around wheel.
Deflate tube slightly if necessary to get it
pinching a tube.
between rim flanges. There are two tricks to not pinching inner tubes.
60. [ ] Stand wheel up, face wheel’s right, and When using a tire lever to remove a tire, the tool faces
rotate so valve is at 12:00. out so the hook on the handle end can be attached to a
spoke. To many people, it seems that the tool should be
turned around when installing the tire because the curve
or hook on the business end of the tool catches nicely
on the edge of the rim. Well, this same hook catches
1 1 nicely on the tube. So use the tire lever for tire installa-
tion in the same orientation used for removal. The other
trick has to do with how far the tire is levered with the
tire lever. Start with the tip of the tool under the bead
and the handle pointing in toward the hub. Lever up
2 2 only 90°, so that the tool ends up perpendicular to the
rim face and use fingers to push the tire over the top
of the rim if necessary. When the lever is moved a full
180° so that the tire lever points up above the tire, the
3 3 tip of the tire lever can catch on the tube and pinch it.
To do this correctly, place a thumb on top of the tire
lever while it is against the tire in that 90° position and
push in on the tire while pulling out on the lever. If you
just pull out on the lever, the tire will probably come
out with it. An alternate technique is to not remove
19.26 Use your hands to work the bead into the rim
at the valve, then at the #1 positions, then at the #2 the tire lever at all but let it drop down after levering
positions, and then at the #3 positions. up, slide it a few inches over, lever up again, let it drop
61. [ ] Starting at valve, use fingers to work second
again, then slide over again and repeat the process (see
bead over rim flange both ways away from figure 19.28 on page 19-14).
valve until half or more of bead is in place.
19 – 13
fit on Presta valves so that a Schrader chuck or pump
head may be used.
70. [ ] Inflate tire to approximately half final pressure.
1- hold here 3- push in here
2- lever up halfway
700C x 25
Edge of tire Seating line

19.29 The seating line is the line about 1/4"–3/8"
above the edge of the tire.
71. [ ] Find molded-rubber line (seating line) in tire
sidewall just above top of rim flange. Do not
confuse color change from sidewall to bead
area with molded-rubber seating line.
72. Spin wheel and inspect seating line on both
sides of tire and check one or both of fol-
lowing choices:
19.28 Holding the tire bead firmly at the end where it

enters the rim, use a tire lever at the other end to lever 700C x 25
the tire halfway to push it over the rim with fingers.
64. [ ] Holding tire bead firmly to rim at one end of
uninstalled portion, use tire lever (approxi-
mately 2" from other end of uninstalled
portion) to lever tire bead over rim flange.
Seating line high
(Tire lever should be oriented same as it is
for tire removal, with spoke hook facing
toward spokes.) 19.30 Here the seating line rises too high above the
65. [ ] Remove tire lever and re-insert 2" closer edge of the rim for a few inches.
to the hand holding tire bead firmly to rim, [ ] Seating line periodically rises noticeably
levering in tire again. Moving 2" at a time, above edge of rim in places.
repeat until all of tire bead is levered over rim
flange.
66. [ ] Deflate tube fully as possible.
67. [ ] Squeezing sides of tire together, inspect all
around wheel for rim strip out of place and
tube caught under bead of tire. Correct any
problems detected. Seating line
68. [ ] Check that valve is straight and strike tire 19.31 Here the seating line sinks too low below the
obliquely with hand to force it around rim if edge of the rim for a few inches.
necessary to straighten valve.
[ ] Seating line periodically dips below edge of
69. [ ] Install valve stem retaining nut, if any.
rim in places.
[ ] Seating line maintains a relatively uniform
INFLATING AND SEATING TIRE position just above edge of rim.
Different techniques and fittings are needed to If seating line periodically rises
inflate Schrader and Presta valves. To inflate a Schrader noticeably above edge of rim in places
valve, simply remove the valve cap (if any) and place a 73. [ ] Deflate tire and inspect in places where
standard air chuck or pump with a Schrader head on seating line rises for rim strip or inner tube
the valve. To inflate a Presta valve, first loosen the valve caught between tire bead and rim. Correct
nut on the top end of the valve. Presta valves require a any problems found.
fitting with a smaller aperture than Schrader valves. The 74. [ ] Re-inflate tire to half pressure and fully
air line or the pump needs to be equipped with a Presta inspect both seating lines again.
head or air chuck. There are inexpensive adapters that
19 – 14
75. [ ] If seating line is too high where there is 2. [ ] If leak is in tire body, tire must be removed
nothing caught under tire bead, deflate and for patching or replacement. Patching
try holding that section of tire firmly down instructions and limitations vary by manufac-
into rim while re-inflating. turer and are not included in this section.
3. [ ] If leak is at base of valve, valve-retaining
If seating line periodically dips below nut may need to be secured, replace O-ring
edge of rim between rim and valve-retaining nut. If this
76. [ ] Deflate and use a soapy solution or liquid does not solve problem, remove tire and
soap to lubricate section of bead where replace valve assembly.
seating line is dipping low, then re-inflate. 4. [ ] If leak is between tire and rim, removing
77. [ ] If seating line remains low after lubricating tire to clean rim and tire interface may solve
with soap, full inflation may be required to problem. NOTE: Not all tire manufacturers
get bead to pop up. support reinstallation of tire unless a tube is
used from this point onward!
If seating line maintains a relatively
uniform position just above edge of rim Tire removal
78. [ ] Inflate tire to full pressure and immediately 1. [ ] Deflate tire fully.
inspect for sections where seating line is too 2. [ ] Press inward on tire (just above rim) fully
high. (Deflate immediately if seating line is around both sides of tire. Tire bead should
high and repeat steps 73–75.) snap out of seating grooves and settle into
79. [ ] Inspect both seating lines for section where deep channel in center of rim.
seating line is below rim edge. If bead is already 3. [ ] Treat tire beads with soapy water solution.
soaped in these areas, over-inflate 10psi and Solution should have high concentration of
check again. Continue over-inflating 10psi at a soap. Try to keep application of solution lim-
time until tire is 50% over maximum, if neces- ited to tire bead only.
sary. Return tire to desired pressure. 4. [ ] Using hands only (no tools!), grip body of
80. [ ] Tighten valve nut (if Presta valve) and install tire close to valve and pull out of rim until
valve cap (if any). one bead is over edge of rim. Continue to
work first bead out until entire bead is on
outside of rim.
WHEEL INSTALLATION 5. [ ] Use same technique to pull second tire bead
81. [ ] See WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTAL- out of rim, to same side of wheel as first
LATION procedure: FITTING WHEELS, ORIGINAL AND bead was removed.
REPLACEMENT (page 18-7) steps 1–10 and 6. [ ] Unthread valve-retaining nut, then push
INSTALLING THE WHEEL (page 18-14) steps 1–8 valve assembly out of rim.
(front wheels) or steps 9–20 (rear wheels).
Tire installation
1. [ ] If valve has been removed, install new valve
into rim. Align rectangular base of valve
UST TUBELESS TIRES so long direction of base is in line with

center channel in rim. Install O-ring and
The Mavic Universal System for Tubeless (UST) is a valve-retaining nut securely to valve. NOTE:
rim and tire design that does not require an inner tube. Rectangular valve base must be completely
The rim is currently manufactured only by Mavic, but tires seated inside center channel of rim!
are available from many brands. The rim design can be 2. [ ] Treat first tire bead with high-concentration
soapy water solution. Try to keep applica-
licensed, so it may be seen from brands other than Mavic.
tion of solution limited to bead area.
Use the following instructions for removal and installation
3. [ ] Starting 180º from valve, seat first bead into
of UST tubeless tires from and to UST rims. center channel of rim, working simultane-
Leak inspection ously both directions in order to finish at
1. [ ] Inflate tire to maximum recommended pres- valve. NOTE: Tire bead must be fully in cen-
sure, then use soapy water to check for ter channel.
leaks in tire body, between tire and rim, at 4. [ ] Treat second tire bead with high-concentration
base of valve, and at end of valve. soapy water solution. Try to keep applica-
tion of solution limited to bead area.
19 – 15
5. [ ] Starting 180º from valve, seat second attach to each other. ISO stands for International Stan-
bead into center channel of rim, working dards Organization. The two-digit number before the dash
simultaneously both directions in order to is the tire’s section width. Section width is described fully in
finish at valve. the portion of this chapter about tire fit and compatibility
6. [ ] Used compressed air to inflate tire. Rapid
(page 19-10). For each size in the table, the smallest and
inflation is required—hand pump may not
largest known section widths are shown. The three-digit
work! NOTE: It is normal for tire to make
loud snap or pop noise as it seats! number after the dash is the tire’s bead diameter and the
7. [ ] Inspect for proper seating on both sides of rim. rim’s bead-seat diameter. The table does not provide ISO
8. [ ] Recheck that valve-retaining nut is tight. rim-width information, which can be obtained easily by
9. [ ] Use soapy water solution to check for leaks measuring the width between the inside faces of the two
at valve and at interface of tire and rim, then rim flanges. This number is expressed in millimeters.
rinse tire and rim of soap residue. The Approximate rim O.D. column is useful for identi-
fying unmarked rims. It is expressed as a range for two
reasons: One is that two rims of the same size have to
TIRE AND RIM SIZES have the same bead seat diameter, but their O.D. can
vary because their flange heights can be different with-
Table 19-1 (page 19-17) is a selection of popular tire out affecting fit; the other reason is that when measuring
and rim sizes found on adult and juvenile road bikes and a rim with a hub already built in, the tape measure will
off-road bikes. The common practice is that rims are have to deflect somewhat around the hub. Even if the
named by the tire that they fit. measurement is slightly outside one of the ranges, it should
The Nominal size column includes the most popular be safe to assume the size of the rim. No two common
name for a size. The reason that these numbers are called sizes come closer than 3mm.
nominal sizes is that they are not actual measurements. The Typical use column describes types of bikes
The diameter (27", 700, 26") is the approximate diameter where the size is most likely to be encountered, but other
of the tire at the tread. Tire profiles have changed dra- types occur. The suggestions are not a complete or limiting
matically since the sizes were created, and it is rare that a list of the types of bikes that use a particular size.
tire actually measures the same as its name size. Rims are There are literally dozens of sizes that exist that are
named by the tire they fit, rather than by the dimension not listed. Most of the other sizes are a once-in-a-lifetime
where they fit the rim. Check a 26"×1.75" rim; it measures encounter for a shop mechanic and will probably never be
approximately 22.5" in diameter. The second part of the encountered (other than a few juvenile sizes smaller than
nominal size is the tire’s inflated width. This number is 24"). For a comprehensive listing of tire and rim sizes, see
based on the width of the tire when mounted on the rim, Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics.
and it changes with the rim width and the tire pressure.
Furthermore, tires have historically shrunk without the
widths being renamed. A typical 1-1/4" tire is usually
closer to 1-1/8".
The Alternate names column covers both vernacular
names and names used by another country for the same-
size tire. An example of a vernacular name would be to
say “MTB tire” instead of 26"×1.75".
The Bead-seat diameter/tire-bead diameter column is
the dimension that is most important in regard to tire
fit. Bead diameter is the diameter of the tire at its inner
perimeter. Bead-seat diameter is the diameter of the rim
at the point the tire bead sits. The procedures in this chap-
ter describe how to measure and calculate rim-bead-seat
diameter. Tire-bead diameter can only be determined by
looking up the tire’s nominal size on this table and reading
across to the Bead-seat diameter/tire-bead diameter column,
unless the tire has an ISO marking.
The ISO size column is an alternate sizing system
based on actual dimensions of tires and rims where they
19 – 16
TIRE AND RIM SIZES (table 19-1)

Nominal size: Alternate names Bead-seat ISO size Approximate Typical use
rim or tire (country/name) diameter/tire- (tire section rim O.D.
(common name) bead diameter width1/rim or tire
diameter)
27"×1-1⁄4" British/K2 630mm 20-630 640mm– Recreational-level road
other widths through 644mm bikes, touring road bikes
are 1, 1- 1/8, 1- 3/8 30-630
700C2 29" MTB3 622mm 20-622 632mm– Performance road bikes,
widths are all French/28×1- 5/8 through 636mm “cross” bikes, “hybrid”
sizes 18mm Canada/28×1-1⁄2 52-622 bikes, 29" MTB size,
through 52mm comfort bikes
26"×1- 3/8" British/26×1-1⁄4 597mm 32-597 607mm– Older Schwinn 3-speeds,
(tire to fit S-5 to fit EA1 rim through 611mm 5- & 10-speed “heavy”
or S-6) 37-597 bikes
26"×1- 3/8" French/650A 590mm 28-590 600mm– American-made “toy
(to fit EA3 or through 604mm store 12-speeds,” narrow
E3 rims) other 40-590 widths on some perfor-
widths are 1 mance road bikes with
and 1-1⁄4 small frames
26"×1-1⁄2" (to French/650B 584mm 32-584 597mm– Schwinn MTB/cross bike
fit S4 rim) through 601mm size, rare French touring
47-584 bikes
650C USA/26" 571mm 20-571 583mm– Triathlon bikes with com-
through 587mm pact, high-performance
47-571 wheels
26"×1-3⁄4"4 Schwinn S-7 571mm 47-571 583mm– Beach cruisers, old
587mm balloon-tire Schwinns
26"×1.75"5 26" MTB 559mm 20-559 571mm– MTBs, ATBs, “cross”
other widths are through 575mm bikes, comfort bikes
sizes 1"–3.0" 75-559
24"×1-1⁄4" Schwinn/ 547mm 20-547 557mm– Narrow sizes on “pro-
other width is 24×1- 3/8 (to fit through 561mm portional” performance
1- 1/8 S5 or S6 rim) 37-547 road bikes, 24×1- 3/8 on
juvenile Schwinn derail-
leur bikes
24"×1- 3/8" None 540mm 32-540 550mm– Juvenile, department-
(to fit E5 or F3 through 554mm store 12-speeds by USA
rim) 37-540 manufacturers
24"×1.75" BMX cruiser 507mm 44-507 521mm– Juvenile MTBs, BMX
other widths 24" MTB through 525mm cruiser class
are 1"–3.0" 24" Downhill 73-507
20"×1.75" BMX 406mm 44-406 420mm– BMX bikes, all qualities,
other widths through 424mm other juvenile 20"-wheel
are 1.5"–2.125" 54-406 bikes
1
ISO rim width is a measurement of the width between the rim flanges. A 20-622 tire might fit
a 14-622 rim.
2
The “C” is sometimes omitted, which is wrong since 700, 700A, 700B, and 700C are completely dif-
ferent sizes. The “C” sometimes appears after the width (example: 700×25C) which is also wrong as
the “C” qualifies the size, not the width.
3
The 29" MTB designation is confusing because it is not a new size and is identical to the well-established
700C size, which is commonly understood to be smaller than the classic 27" size. Additional confusion
results from the fact that there are several older 28" sizes that are all larger than the “new” 29" MTB size.
4
Do not confuse this with 26×1.75 MTB size. They do not interchange.
5
Do not confuse this with beach-cruiser and balloon-tire classic size, 26"×1-3⁄4". They do not interchange.
19 – 17
TIRE AND TUBE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 19-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Bead-seat line is too high at the valve.
Tube around base of valve is caught under rim bead. Deflate tire and push valve into tire and then pull out
again.
Rim strip is too wide for rim. Inspect rim strip and replace it if against bottom
edge of rim-bead lip.
SYMPTOM: Bead-seat line is too high at points other than the valve.
Tube is caught under bead of tire. Deflate, inspect, and reposition tube.
Rim strip is too wide or out of position so that it is Reposition or replace rim strip as necessary.
against lip of rim bead seat.
Tire fits rim loosely. High-seated areas are probably With tire at a pressure of approximately 10–15psi,
caused by low-seated areas elsewhere on the rim. manipulate the tire by pulling out at low points
while pushing in at high points. Add pressure once
bead is more evenly seated.
SYMPTOM: Bead-seat line will not pop out above the rim bead at one or more points.
Bead is too high at other points due to rim strip or Check and fix high-seating problems.
tube caught under tire bead.
Tire fits the rim loosely and high-seated areas With tire at a pressure of approximately 10–15psi,
elsewhere are probably keeping the tire bead in manipulate the tire by pulling out at low points
at this point. while pushing in at high points. Add pressure once
bead is more evenly seated.
Tire is a tight fit. – Deflate tire, lubricate tire bead with liquid soap
or lanolin hand cream and re-inflate.
– If bead is lubricated and there are no high-
seating areas, inflate past recommended pres-
sure until bead pops out.
SYMPTOM: Tire seats correctly initially, then blows off of rim.
Tire was over-inflated. Inspect for bead damage, then reinstall.
Tire bead is damaged. Inspect for damage and replace.
SYMPTOM: Tire is extremely difficult to install.
Tire is wrong size. Check tire fit.
Tube is over-inflated. Remove air from tube.
Tube is too fat for tire. Check tube fit.
Rim strip is too wide, interfering with bead seat Inspect and replace rim strip if it is jamming
area of rim. against bead lip on either side of rim.
Rim strip is too bulky for tight fitting rim/tire Avoid using thick, black-rubber and cloth rim strips.
combination.
Tire and rim are an unusually tight combination. Lube complete tire beads with liquid soap or lano-
lin hand cream.
SYMPTOM: Tire fabric has numerous ruptures all the way around both sides below the tread but not
just above the rim. There are no rub marks.
Tire has been ridden while punctured or virtually flat. Replace tire and avoid riding with extremely low
Tire sidewalls have been rubbing on riding surface. air pressure or no air pressure.
Continued
19 – 18
TIRE AND TUBE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 19-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Tire is extremely difficult to remove.
Tube needs additional deflation. Squeezing tire, deflate tube further.
Tire has adhered to rim sidewall. Run tire lever between tire and rim all the way
around both sides to break free adhesion. Smear as
much liquid soap or lanolin hand cream as possible
between tire bead and rim.
Tire and rim are an unusually tight combination. Lube complete tire beads with liquid soap or lano-
lin hand cream.
SYMPTOM: Valve was in straight initially but is now at an angle.
Hard braking has rotated tire around rim, prob- Deflate tire, rotate it in a direction that straight-
ably because bike has been ridden with inad- ens the valve, and maintain correct pressure
equate air pressure. when riding.
SYMPTOM: Rim strip is broken at valve hole.
Incorrect procedure was used when installing tube – Replace rim strip.
valve into rim strip and rim hole. – Avoid reoccurrence by lifting rim strip up at valve
hole and installing valve through rim strip first. Then
drop rim strip and valve together into rim.
SYMPTOM: Tire is flatting repeatedly from simple punctures on the outside perimeter of the tube.
Tire tread has worn thin. Inspect tire tread and replace tire if worn.
Tire is full of cracks from aging. Inspect for cracks and replace tire if needed.
Flat-causing object still stuck in tire. Inspect more thoroughly for cause of flat.
SYMPTOM: Tire has flatted from blowing off the rim.
Tire was over-inflated. Inspect for bead damage and adhere to manufac-
turer’s recommendations.
If tire was properly inflated, the tire probably was Inspect for bead damage and inspect tires for
not mounted correctly. mounting problems before inflating fully.
Tire bead is damaged. Remove and inspect tire, then replace tire if bead is
damaged.
SYMPTOM: Tire has flatted shortly after installation due to parallel slits in the sidewall of the inner tube.
Improper tool use during tire installation has dam- Replace the tube, use only tire levers for tire instal-
aged the tube. lation, and avoid using the tire levers to lever the
tire up any further than necessary to push the tire
over the top of the rim with fingers.
SYMPTOM: Tire has flatted in mid-ride due to parallel slits in the sidewall of the inner tube.
Tire has bottomed out and tube was pinched – Avoiding riding with under-inflated tires.
between rim bead and riding surface. – Un-weight when hitting obstacles that cannot
be avoided.
– Use wider tires.
SYMPTOM: Tire has a slow leak, but inspection reveals no holes.
Valve is leaking because valve core is loose or bad. Use bubble test to check for leaking valve with tire
installed and fully inflated. Secure valve and replace
if leaking continues.
Continued
19 – 19
TIRE AND TUBE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 19-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Holes found on “rim side” of tube.
Rim strip is out of position, exposing nipple heads Inspect and reposition rim strip.
or nipple access holes.
Elastic-rubber rim strip appears to be covering nip- Use polyurethane rim strips on rims with nipple-
ple access holes when inspected but is deflecting access holes.
to expose holes when tire is fully inflated.
Spokes are too long and are protruding out of nip- Remove rim strip and use edge of a file to file
ple heads and poking through the rim strip. down excess spoke length.
Particularly at rim seam, rim has raw, unfinished Inspect rim and file off any sharp protrusions.
material that is puncturing or abrading the tube.
SYMPTOM: Tube has leak at edge of the oval mounting base of the valve.
Tube cross-section is too narrow for tire and is Replace with fatter tube.
being stretched too far to fill tire.
SYMPTOM: Tube has failed at the seam where two ends of tube were joined during manufacturing to
create a circle.
Tube is wrong size for rim (must be stretched to Replace with proper-size tube.
reach around rim) and is pulling on seam too much.
Tube cross-section is too narrow for tire and is Replace with fatter tube.
being stretched too far to fill tire.
SYMPTOM: Tire bead is damaged, evidenced by torn fabric wrapped around bead wire or scuffed rub-
ber coating at bead wire, over a distance of approximately 1/2".
Improper tools or technique while levering tire off Use plastic tire levers and find ways to solve prob-
of rim. lem if tire is difficult to remove or install.
SYMPTOM: Wire bead in tire is broken or rubber lip molded on at wire bead is scuffed off for sev-
eral inches.
Over-inflation caused tire to blow off rim, which Replace tire and avoid over-inflation.
damages the beads.
SYMPTOM: Tire sidewall has wear marks and frayed fabric most of the way around, just above the rim.
Brake pads are rubbing on tire because pads are Replace tire and adjust brake-pad height.
out of position.
Brake pads cannot be adjusted to correct height Replace tire with narrower size. Tire is too fat for rim
without rubbing on tire. width and either rim or tire should be changed.
SYMPTOM: Tire sidewall has rub marks and frayed fabric over a short distance just above the rim.
Rim is out of round, causing the brake pads to rub Replace tire and correct out-of-round error.
against tire intermittently. Replace rim/wheel if necessary.
SYMPTOM: Tire tread or sidewall rubber is full of countless little cracks.
Rubber has hardened due to aging. Replace tire and avoid unnecessary exposure to
sunlight and/or water.
SYMPTOM: Tire fabric is ruptured in tread area. Tread may or may not be damaged.
Fabric has rotted due to age. Replace tire and inspect more frequently for cracks
in the rubber.
Tire has been damaged by sharp stone. Replace tire.
19 – 20
20 – PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS
Clockwise
until arm
removes
SQUARE-FIT CRANK ARMS 20 – 5
IF REPLACING ARM(S) OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING 20 – 5
PREPARATION AND PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTIONS 20 – 5
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL AND INSPECTION 20 – 7
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING 20 – 9
CRANK-ARM CLEANING AND DAMAGE INSPECTION 20 – 9
CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION 20 – 10
CHECKING FIT OF REPLACEMENT ARM 20 – 12
INSTALL PEDALS 20 – 13
SPLINE-FIT CRANKS 20 – 13
TYPES 20 – 13
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL AND INSPECTION 20 – 14
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING 20 – 15
DAMAGE INSPECTION 20 – 15
CHECKING FIT OF REPLACEMENT CRANK ARM 20 – 16
REMOVING CRANK ARMS WITH DAMAGED EXTRACTOR THREADS 20 – 17
MANGLED THREADS 20 – 17
STRIPPED THREADS 20 – 17
SPLIT-SPLINE CRANKS 20 – 19
GENERAL GUIDELINES 20 – 19
SHIMANO XTR SPLIT-SPLINE CRANK ARMS (FC-M960) 20 – 16
CRANK-ARM TROUBLESHOOTING 20 – 20
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER bottom-bracket spindle. The hole and spindle end may
be a square or a spline.
This chapter is about removing and installing press-fit
Self extractor: A mechanism installed in a crank arm
crank arms, as well as installing replacement crank arms.
that permits extraction of the press-fit arm without the
Press-fit crank arms are made in square and splined con-
used of a crank-arm extractor.
figurations. Shimano XTR (FC-M960) cranks are also cov-
Splined-fit crank: A crank design that has a splined
ered. The COTTERED CRANK ARMS chapter covers cottered
hole in the crank arm that is pressed onto a tapered, splined
crank arms (page 21-1). The ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKS
bottom-bracket spindle. Due to the shallow angle of the
chapter covers one-piece crank arms (page 22-1). There is
taper, the taper is often overlooked and consequently is
also a CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-1), which should be
rarely included in the description. May be shortened to
referred to if the chainrings will be removed, replaced, or
spline crank. Splined-fit crank arms that have no taper do
secured. The chapter PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
exist and are characterized by a split in the spline hole
AND INSTALLATION (page 24-1) includes information about
which is closed down by a binder bolt (see page 20-19).
pedal removal and installation—a job that is often done as
part of crank-arm removal and installation. 9mm 2.8mm
Long spline
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY 5mm 2.2mm
Chainrings: The gears attached to the right crank
arm that drive the chain when pedaling.
Chainring-mounting arms: The arms (usually five) Short spline
that go from the end of the crank arm out to the chainrings.
The chainrings are attached to the end of the chainring-
mounting arms, which are also called spider arms. 20.1a These are examples of splined spindle ends that
Cotterless crank: Obsolete and is rarely used in accept a spline-fit crank arm. Both examples are Shimano
regard to press-fit crank arms. In this manual, the type Octalink designs (eight splines). Another common design
is the ISIS configuration, which is distinguished by ten
of crank arm that is referred to by the term cotterless crank
splines and which does not have the cylindrical portion at
is called a square-fit crank. the end of the splines as shown above.
Crank arm: The lever arm that attaches to the bottom-
bracket spindle at one end and the pedal at the other end. Square-fit crank: A crank design that has a tapered,
The right crank arm has chainring(s) (gears) attached to it, square hole in the crank arm that is pressed onto a tapered,
usually by means of chainring-mounting arms. square bottom-bracket spindle. May be seen also as square-
Crank-arm extractor: The tool used for removal of hole crank, square crank, square-taper crank, or tapered crank.
the crank arm from the bottom-bracket spindle. Historically, this design has been called a cotterless crank,
Extractor body: The portion of the crank-arm but this term is now rarely used.
extractor that threads directly into the crank arm. Spindle taper
Extractor shaft: The portion of the crank-arm
extractor that threads into the extractor body and pushes Retaining nut/bolt
against the end of the bottom-bracket spindle.
Extractor threads: These are the threads in the crank
Crank arm
arm into which the crank-arm extractor threads.
Press-fit crank: A crank design that has a tapered
hole in the crank arm that is pressed onto a tapered 20.1b Cross-section of a square-fit crank arm attached
to a spindle.
20 – 1
PREREQUISITES performance, drive-train noise, and drive-train wear. Only

by knowing how well the chainrings aligned originally, and
Pedal removal and installation combining that information with how much further in or
Before removing a crank arm, the pedal should be out the chainrings will end up relative to the frame, can you
removed. Pedals are much easier to remove with the crank determine whether the new crank arm is acceptable for use
arm still attached to the bike. If removing the crank arm(s) with the existing bottom-bracket spindle.
for simple maintenance (cleaning) or bottom-bracket ser-
vice, pedal removal is optional. Although it may not appear
Rear-derailleur replacement
In the case of installing a new crankset or a new right
so, pedal removal is generally not required for chainring
arm with different-size chainrings than the original ones, it
removal; although, this is something that may be done
is possible to exceed the capacity of the rear derailleur to
to the crank arm once it is off. See the PEDAL REMOVAL,
eliminate the chain slack when the chain is in the smallest
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION chapter for pedal
chainring and smallest rear cog. It is the difference in num-
removal (page 24-3) and installation (page 24-4).
ber of teeth between the smallest and largest chainring that
Chainring removal and installation is important, not the absolute size of either chainring. See
If replacing a right crank arm, chainring removal will the REAR DERAILLEURS chapter (page 32-6) to determine
be required. For anything else, chainring removal is strictly if the capacity matches the new chainring set.
optional. It is easier to do a thorough job of cleaning the
crank arms and chainrings with the chainrings removed.
See the CHAINRINGS chapter for chainring removal (page INDICATIONS
23-9) and installation (page 23-11). Maintenance cycles
Front-derailleur adjustment and If properly installed, crank arms should not need
any routine maintenance. Other books and periodicals
replacement recommend routine tightening of crank-arm mounting
If replacing a right crank arm with a non-identical nuts/bolts. This would only be necessary if they were
one, the new one may position the chainrings slightly under-tightened initially. Routine tightening of the nuts/
further in or out, requiring additional adjustment of the bolts without using a torque wrench to make sure that
derailleur limit screws and cable tension. If replacing the they are not being over-tightened invites damage to the
right crank-arm/chainring assembly with an identical arm arm from over-tightening.
but a larger or smaller chainring, then the front-derailleur
height must be changed. When changing the height of New bikes
the front derailleur, the derailleur’s rotational adjustment If assembling a new bike, removing and reinstalling
may also change, which in turn may affect limit screws the crank arms is recommended. This is the only way to
and cable tension. See the FRONT DERAILLEURS chapter know that the mounting surfaces are properly prepared
for front-derailleur adjustment (page 33-10). and the torque is correct. It is an unfortunately common
Front-derailleur replacement is only required in two problem with new bikes that the crank arms work loose
cases: if installing a new crankset or right crank arm and are destroyed. Although this would be covered by
with chainrings that have less than an 8-tooth difference warranty, it would be nicer to avoid it altogether.
between the largest ring and the next smaller one; or when Bottom-bracket service
the front derailleur was designed for a triple chainring with To adjust, overhaul, or replace the bottom bracket,
a 10-tooth or more difference. See the FRONT DERAIL- crank-arm removal is required. There may be no apparent
LEURS chapter to tell how front-derailleur capacity has problems with the crank arms, but this is an excellent
been exceeded (page 33-5). If installing a “micro-drive,” opportunity to check for potential problems.
Shimano “compact drive,” or other crankset with reduced-
size chainrings, there could be other problems with front- Symptoms indicating loose arms
derailleur capacity. One of the most persistent problems with crank arms
is that they work loose. This can strand the rider, and it
Chainline error can easily destroy the arm that works loose—an expensive
If replacing a right crank arm with one that is not identi- concern. Creaking noises from the crank area are a warning
cal, the chainrings may end up further in or out. While this sign that the arms may be loosening, but loose pedal parts
might be acceptable in terms of chainring-to-frame clearance and loose chainring bolts can cause similar noises, so check
and/or front-derailleur range of motion, it might change the all these areas at the same time. When the arm makes a
chainline alignment. This alignment affects front-derailleur knocking sound or feels loose while pedaling, the situation
20 – 2
is critical. If it is not too late, it may be possible to save the Symptoms indicating damaged
arm by not pedaling on it until it can be secured. Pedaling
lightly, for even one block, may destroy the arm.
crank-arm-removal threads
The crank-arm-removal tool threads into the crank
With proper installation, most riders do not need
arm where the bolt/nut dustcap comes out. Damage to
to periodically tighten the crank arms. Other books and
these threads will be indicated by difficulty threading in
magazine articles often state “re-tighten crank arms every
the crank extractor or by the extractor pulling out of the
100 miles,” or something similar. The crank arm would be
crank-arm threads when attempting a crank-arm removal.
the most under-designed part on the bicycle if this was the
These threads can be damaged from failure to protect them
case, and bike shops would be selling as many replacement
with the bolt/nut dustcap, improper removal tool use, or
crank arms as they do inner tubes. In fact, it is possible
failure during removal due to over-tight arm installation. In
to damage crank arms from routine tightening without a
some cases, this thread damage may be repairable, but in
torque wrench, which is why it is not recommended. With
most cases it is not. When the threads are damaged beyond
a torque wrench, crank arms can be regularly checked
repair, the arm should be replaced. There is a section at the
without risk. If they are remaining tight (as they should),
end of this chapter on repair of these threads and how to
then the torque wrench will show this without adding any
remove the arm when the threads are unrepairable.
tightness. If they have worked loose, the torque wrench
will tighten them back to the original torque. If they work Symptoms indicating cracked arms
loose more than once, consider a higher torque. This Crank arms can crack in a number of places. Some-
“torque checking” (as opposed to periodic re-tightening) times a crack will develop between the pedal mounting
is an excellent form of preventive maintenance. hole and the end of the arm. Sometimes a crack will
develop at the crotch of the chainring-mounting arms
Symptoms indicating damaged arms (spider arms) and the crank arm. Sometimes a crack will
When the normal installation techniques (plus
develop between a corner of the tapered square hole and
using the maximum recommended torque) fail to keep
the mounting end of the arm. These cracks may make
the arm secure, it means the tapered square hole in the
themselves known through creaking noises, but that is not
arm is deformed (enlarged or distorted). The crank arm
likely. Most likely, the cracks will be discovered through
should be replaced.
inspection. Whenever servicing the crank arms (especially
Symptoms indicating bent arms when cleaning), inspect in all these areas for cracks. If
Crank arms bend sometimes when the bike is crashed, the arm cracks and is not replaced, it can result in a cata-
and they can bend from abusive jumping. The symptom of strophic failure, which can lead to serious injury.
a bent crank arm is an oscillating sensation felt in the ankle
while pedaling. This oscillation may feel like a twisting back
and forth on the ball of the foot or like the outer edge of TOOL CHOICES
the foot is rocking up and down, or it may feel like both The design or brand of crank arm and spindle will
at once. The identical symptoms are caused by bent pedal determine the tools needed.
shafts, which can easily be damaged by the same forces that Table 20-1 (page 20-4) covers all tools for the job. The
damage crank arms. Depending on the relative strength of preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred because
the crank arm or pedal shaft, either may be more likely to of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility, and
bend. The first step is to remove the pedal and look at the economy. When more than one tool for one function is in
end of the shaft as it rotates. If the end does not oscillate, bold, it means that several tools are required for different
then it is the crank arm that is bent. If it does oscillate, new configurations of parts.
pedals are needed. If the symptom is still felt when riding Although some distributors sell special pullers for
with new pedals, then the arm is also bent. removing crank arms with stripped threads, none of these
tools are listed here because the best techniques for doing
Symptoms indicating damaged pedal- the job do not require any special tools.
mounting threads
Pedal-mounting threads can be damaged from
improper pedal installation. The only symptom is difficulty
TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
Crank-arm removal and reinstallation is a 1–2
threading in the pedal. Sometimes it is repairable, which
minute-per-arm job of little difficulty. Fitting a new
is described in the chapter PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACE-
replacement crank arm, which can include chainring and
MENT, AND INSTALLATION (page 24-5), but sometimes it
pedal removal and installation, as well as front-derailleur
is necessary to replace the crank arm.
adjustment, is a 10–45 minute job of little difficulty
20 – 3
(unless derailleur adjustment is included, in which case rip apart instead of unthreading. In this case, there is no
difficulty may be high). choice except to use some sort of pick or pry tool to dig
out the remaining pieces bit by bit.
COMPLICATIONS Extractor will not thread into arm
Never force the extractor in! The first thing to check when
Dustcap will not unthread the extractor will not thread in is whether the bolt/nut
Cross-threading or corrosion can turn the relatively has actually been removed. Next, try more carefully to
simple task of removing a crank-arm dustcap into an keep the axis of the extractor aligned with the axis of the
ordeal. The tool-fitting in the dustcap usually strips out. spindle rather than perpendicular to the face of the crank
The best solution is to drill two holes in the face of the arm. If this does not solve the problem, then the threads
dustcap and use an adjustable pin spanner to get it out. are probably mangled. There is a section at the end of the
Some plastic threaded dustcaps with this problem will just chapter about repairing mangled threads.
PRESS-FIT CRANK-ARM TOOLS (table 20-1)
EXTRACTORS
Campagnolo UT-FC060 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
Campagnolo UT-FC070 22×1mm left-hand-thread extractor for Campagnolo C-Record track cranks and
road cranks that are missing original self-extractor system (rarely needed)
Lifu 04C1 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
Park CCP-2 CCP-2 is standard-thread extractor for square-hole crank arms with either nut-
and type or bolt-type spindles; CCP-4 is for spline-fit crank arms; both have poor
Park CCP-4 leverage due to length of built-in handle and lack of choice for leverage posi-
tion (tools without built-in handle can have wrench positioned where needed)
Park CWP-6 Standard-thread extractor, works with nut-type and bolt-type square spindles
or spline spindles; problematic due to potential to misplace small tips that
must be switched for each type of crank
Pedro’s 6541205 Dedicated extractor for common types of spline-fit cranks (Octalink and ISIS)
Pedro’s 6451200 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
Shimano TL-FC10 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
Sugino Maxi 203 Standard-thread extractor, works with old-style nut-type square spindles only
VAR 11 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
United Bicycle Supply 23×1mm (fits rare T.A. cranks), removes from bolt-type square spindles only
TA-EXT
United Bicycle Supply Fits rare Stronglight cranks with 16mm bolt and unique 23.35×1mm thread
STEX (by Stein)
VAR 392/2 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
ADAPTERS FOR EXTRACTORS
Shimano TL-FC15 Adapts all standard-thread extractors for bolt-type square spindles to work
with splined spindles with 15mm bolt hole; best substitute for not having ded-
icated spline-fit crank extractor such as Pedro’s 6541205
United Bicycle Supply Adapts all standard-thread extractors for bolt-type square spindles to work
UB-FC15 with splined spindles with 12mm bolt hole; best substitute for not having ded-
icated spline-fit crank extractor such as Pedro’s 6541205
OTHER CRANK-ARM TOOLS
Bicycle Research TC-8 Thread chaser, repairs mangled 22×1mm crank-arm threads
Shimano TL-FC20 Fits two-pin-hole dustcap on older Shimano crank arms
Stein CES Converts stripped 22×1mm threads to 24×1.5mm; comes with shop extractor
(24×1.5mm) and self-extractor system to be left installed in crank; works with
bolt-type square spindles and splined-fit cranks; expensive but indispensable
20 – 4
Threads are stripped out in arm procedures have steps for checking chainline before and
If the threads are stripped out before crank-arm after, but the separate CHAINLINE chapter should be referred
removal is attempted, then it is simply a matter of to for help in how to measure chainline (page 27-7) and how
removing and replacing the arm (procedure at end of to identify whether an error is significant (page 27-3).
this chapter). If they strip while attempting removal, it is New chainring size/position changes
important to determine why. If correct removal technique front-derailleur adjustment
has been used, then the failure has occurred because the If installing a replacement right-side crank arm, the
arm was too tight. This is not unusual. The responsibility chainrings may move in or out. This would necessitate
lies with the last person to install the arm. If there is not changing both limit screws and the cable setting on the
100% certainty that the removal technique was correct, front derailleur. If the replacement crank arm has a large
then the shop owes the customer a replacement arm. chainring of a different size, then derailleur height and
Chainrings wobble excessively with rotation would need to be reset (which leads to limit-screw
crank in all four mounting positions and cable adjustment as well).
Lack of precision with the flats of a square-taper
spindle and with the square hole in the arm can effect the
amount of chainring wobble that occurs in each of the
ABOUT THE REST
four possible positions in which the arm can be mounted OF THIS CHAPTER
on a spindle. If the wobble is unacceptable in the best The rest of this chapter is divided into five parts.
of these four positions, then the problem is with the The first part is procedures for square-fit crank arms.
chainring-mounting arms or the chainrings themselves The second part is procedures for spline-fit crank arms.
and not with the crank-arm/spindle fit. Both of these Both the first and second parts refer to another chapter
problems are addressed in the CHAINRINGS chapter (page for replacing chainring, which is something that might be
23-3 and 23-13). done while the crank arms are removed. The third part is
procedures for removing crank arms with damaged extrac-
Replacement arm does not fit spindle tor threads. The fourth part is procedures for Shimano
It is not unusual for one brand of crank arm not XTR split-spline cranksets ( model FC-M960). The final
to fit another brand’s spindle. Sometimes there are even section is crank-arm troubleshooting.
compatibility problems between different models or years
of the same brand. Many older European-brand crank
arms cannot be used with most spindles manufactured
in Asia. New Shimano crank arms cannot be used with
anything but new Shimano spindles. The removal and
SQUARE-FIT CRANK ARMS
installation procedures in this chapter include inspections
to determine whether an arm and spindle are compat- IF REPLACING ARM(S) OR TO
ible. Unfortunately, it is not practical to create a table of
compatibility for the huge and ever-changing selections
FACILITATE CLEANING
1. [ ] Optionally, remove pedal(s). See PEDAL
of spindles and crank arms. REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION pro-
Replacement arm changes cedure (page 24-3).
chainring clearance
A non-identical replacement of the right-side crank PREPARATION AND PRE-
arm may fit the spindle but not necessarily put the
chainrings in the same position relative to the frame. If REMOVAL INSPECTIONS
the chainrings end up closer to the frame, it could be a In the next step, measure the clearance between the
problem. The following procedures have steps for check- right-crank assembly and the chain stay. The chain stay
ing the original clearance and the clearance after installing is the frame tube that runs from the bottom bracket to
a new right arm. the rear dropout. If the bike has raised chain stays (they
connect to the seat tube above the front derailleur) or rear-
Replacement arm changes chainline suspension arms or links positioned completely above the
Because a replacement right-side arm can change chain, measure to the side of the seat tube instead. The
the chainring positions, it can change the alignment of measurement is useful, even if just reinstalling the same
the chainrings to the rear cogs (chainline). The following crank arm, for two reasons.
20 – 5
First, due to frame flex and chainring flex, there must center (through which the crank-bolt head can be seen)
be at least 2mm clearance between every part of the right- and the ring has pin holes or slots for the engagement of
crank assembly and the frame. Otherwise, frame damage a tool. If both features are not evident, the crank arm is
may occur while the bike is being ridden. Measuring before not self extracting. When steps throughout this procedure
removal reveals a significant problem or borderline problem, have variations due to these two designs, the variations are
before going to the trouble of reinstalling the arm. If clear- labeled standard only or self extractor only.
ance is poor before removal, it will be necessary to check and NOTE: Since most steps in this procedure must
replace a worn-out arm or put in a longer bottom-bracket be done once for one arm and again for the
spindle if the arm is fine. If the clearance is marginal before second arm, mark completion of each step for
removal, measuring will alert you to a potential problem first arm with a slash [/] and mark completion
of each step for second arm by adding a back-
when the arm is reinstalled. Second, after reinstalling the
ward slash [\] so that each step completed for
original arm or installing a replacement arm, measuring the both arms is then marked with an [X].
change in the clearance reveals whether it will be necessary 4. [ ] Standard only: Remove dust cap if bolt
to re-adjust the front derailleur. head is hidden. Cap may be pressed into or
threaded into crank-arm face.
Self extractor only: Check that ring is fully
engaged (rarely, ring may be left-hand thread).
NOTE: Ring should not be tightened—
removal will be difficult! If ring is not fully
Measure clearance engaged, watch carefully during step 5 for
at whichever is ring unthreading further while loosening bolt!
closest point If the bolt being removed in step #5 is a hex-socket
bolt, then there is a possibility that the crank arm is self
extracting. In this case, the arm will come off as the bolt
20.2 Use a stack of feeler gauges to measure the is loosened, and the arm and bolt will stay together as a
clearance between the chain stay and the part of the unit. If this is the case, watch closely for the ring around
crank assembly that comes closest to rubbing the chain
stay (or any other part of the frame).
the bolt head unthreading as the bolt is loosened.
5. [ ] Standard only: Remove bolt or nut, then
2. [ ] Measure clearance between chain stay and look closely for washer that may be in crank
part of right crank that comes closest to arm. Remove washer, if any.
chain stay (usually inner chainring or bolt Self extractor only: Break loose bolt (bolt
heads holding on inner chainring but occa- torque is being released), continue to
sionally another chainring). Record mea- unthread bolt, then break loose bolt again
surement here: _________mm (press fit is being released). NOTE: Hold on
NOTE: If rear stays or suspension arms are in to arm while threading bolt out fully so arm
a position where chainring rub is not an issue, will not fall off spindle.
measure clearance to a main frame member. NOTE: Self extractor only, steps 6–10 do not
In the next step, measure the chainline error. Chainline apply. Go to step 11.
is the alignment of the front gears to the rear gears and is In the next step, check for evidence that the crank
covered extensively in the CHAINLINE chapter (page 27-6). arm is worn out or was originally a poor fit to the spindle.
It affects drive-train noise and shift performance. Measure After removing the nut or bolt/washer, a square hole in
it before making any changes and then again after reinstall- the crank arm should become visible (this is where the
ing the original right arm or a new right arm so it will be spindle is inserted). If the end of the square portion of
known whether chainline ended up worse, in which case the spindle is recessed inside the square hole of the crank
it would be necessary to check for symptoms in order to arm by any amount, then the fit is most likely acceptable.
determine whether the error was significant. If the square end of the spindle fills up the entire depth
3. [ ] Measure chainline error: of the square hole in the crank arm, then the fit is unac-
Chainrings out (+) or in (–) (circle one) ceptable. In this latter case, the nut or bolt that secures
Amount: _______mm the crank arm will be stopped by the end of the spindle
Step #4 has two alternate procedures. One is for before it has pushed the crank arm far enough on to secure
cranks that require a crank extractor, and the other is for it. The resulting symptoms would be creaking sounds and
cranks that have a self-extractor mechanism. The distin- repetitive loosening of the arm.
guishing features of self-extractor mechanisms are that
there is a ring around the crank bolt with a hole in the
20 – 6
Park CWP-5
Spindle taper
Recessed Flush
Crank arm
20.3 The left picture shows the position of the spindle

when fit is good and the right one shows when fit is
bad, because the square portion of the spindle fills the
full depth of the square hole in the crank arm.
6. After removing bolt/nut, inspect if spindle fills 10mm 12mm
domed-end flat-end
square hole (should not). Circle one choice
for each arm removed:
[ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one) YES YES
[ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one) NO NO
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced.
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL
AND INSPECTION
In the following steps, a crank-arm extractor is installed
and a crank arm removed. This is a very critical procedure. 20.4 This picture shows the two types of spindle
If done improperly, the crank arm or the spindle can be ends with the corresponding correct remover to use.
destroyed. See table 20-1 (page 20-4) to select an appropriate Note that the extractor used with a spindle that has a
threaded stud on the end has a domed and relatively
extractor. It is critical that the extractor is compatible with
narrow tip. Note that the extractor used with a spindle
the thread of the crank arm and with the shape of the end that has no threaded stud on the end is flat on the end
of the spindle. If using one of the recommended tools, and has a relatively fat tip.
simply follow the guidelines indicated in the table. When threading the extractor into the crank arm,
If using an existing extractor and it is not one of the it should go in easily using just fingers. If the extractor
models listed in the table, consider these factors. Thread does not thread in easily, it may be cross-threading or the
compatibility is not an issue unless the crank arms are one of threads may be damaged. To avoid cross-threading, align
the following brands/models: T.A. (all models), Stronglight the shaft of the extractor in line with the spindle axis rather
(models retained by a 16mm bolt only), Viscount (all models), than perpendicular to the face of the crank arm. If the
Lambert (all models), or Campagnolo (C-Record models). threads are damaged, move ahead to the section of this
Viscount and Lambert removers are no longer available. For chapter titled REMOVING CRANK ARMS WITH DAMAGED
removers that are a compatible-thread type for the other EXTRACTOR THREADS (page 20-17).
brands, see table 20-1 (page 20-4). All other cranks have the
common 22 × 1mm thread. The other important factor is
whether the spindle is a nut-type or bolt-type. Many differ-
ent brands of extractors are compatible with each of these
spindle types. If the tip of the extractor shaft is approxi-
mately 12mm diameter, it is designed for use with spindles
that accept a bolt to retain the crank arm. If the tip of the
extractor shaft is approximately 10mm diameter, it is designed
for use with spindles that accept a nut to retain the crank arm.
Use of the wrong extractor type may destroy the crank arm or the spindle!
The Park CCP-2, CWP-5 and CWP-6 are the only common
20.5 The drawing shows that a properly installed
tools that are compatible with both spindle types. The CWP-6 extractor must be in line with the spindle axis, but not
replaces the CWP-5, which is no longer made. necessarily perpendicular to the face of the crank arm.
20 – 7
In step #7, the extractor is secured in the arm with compatibility of the extractor to the crank arm and inspect
a wrench. There is no particular torque, and not a lot of for compatibility of the extractor type with the spindle
force is required. The purpose is simply to ensure that the type. If no problems are found, then the only problem
extractor is fully installed instead of just hanging up on a might be that the arm is seized to the spindle. Flood the
rough thread. If it is installed fully and it begins to rotate hole with penetrating oil and attempt removal again.
further during arm removal, stop the procedure before
unrecoverable damage occurs.
7. [ ] Thread extractor into crank arm with fingers
and snug with wrench.
A common mistake is to fail to install the extractor all
the way in because the extractor shaft bottoms against the
Clockwise
spindle before the extractor is fully threaded into the crank until arm
arm. Step #8 is a safety check so that this does not hap- removes
pen. If everything is set up right when the extractor body
is secured with a wrench, it should still be possible to turn
the extractor shaft either way with fingers. If the extractor
shaft cannot be turned with fingers, the shaft is engaging
the spindle before the extractor body is fully engaged in the
crank-arm threads. When there is poor thread engagement,
crank-arm-thread failure is likely to occur.
Loose
Tight
20.7 Turn the extractor shaft clockwise with a wrench

to remove the crank arm.
9. [ ] Tighten extractor shaft to remove crank arm.
20.6 When the extractor is properly installed and when 10. [ ] With arm still on spindle but loose, break
ready to remove the arm, the extractor body should be loose extractor from crank arm.
tight and the shaft should be loose and easily turned Step #11 has a function for standard and self-
with fingers. extracting crank arms and an additional function just for
8. Check with fingers whether extractor shaft self-extracting crank arms. The common function is to
turns and check one of following choices: inspect the spindle flats and crank-arm square hole for
[ ] Shaft is tight, loosen it further and re-snug evidence that the arm is damaged or incompatible with the
extractor into crank. spindle. Self-extracting arms should have the self extrac-
[ ] Shaft is loose, ready for arm removal. tor removed so that it can be properly setup and so the
In step #9, tighten the extractor shaft to remove the square-hole inspection can be done.
crank arm. At this point in the procedure, there is still a The inspection for damage and incompatibility has
possibility of removal failure and damage to the crank two components. Crank arms invariably leave marks on
arm. If the correct warning signs are looked for during spindle flats. As long as these marks do not extend all
arm removal, it may be possible to detect a failure before the way to the inner end of the flats, the crank-arm fit
the damage gets critical, solve the cause of the problem, is acceptable. If the marks cover the full length of the
and then successfully remove the arm. While tightening spindle flats, the arm is worn out or has always had a bad
the extractor shaft, simultaneously watch for either of the fit to the spindle. If the crank arm presses all the way onto
following warning signs. First, if the extractor body starts to the spindle, then the arm is bottoming against the fat part
rotate, the crank-arm extractor-threads may be stripping. Second, of the spindle at the end of the flats instead of the taper
if the extractor appears to begin pulling out of the arm (or starts firmly wedging inside the square hole of the arm. This will
cocking to one side in the arm), the crank-arm extractor-threads result in creaking and ultimately in repetitive loosening of
may be pulling out. In both cases, immediately stop tightening the the crank arm. When this evidence exists on the spindle
extractor shaft and remove the extractor from the arm. Inspect for flats, it indicates there may be damage in the square hole
a nut, bolt, or washer that was not removed. Inspect thread of the crank arm. The end of the square hole on the
20 – 8
inward face of the arm should be a clean, square shape,
and the edges of the hole should be sharp and distinct,
CRANK-ARM CLEANING
not be flared, rounded, or deformed. When the marks on AND DAMAGE INSPECTION
the spindle indicate possible damage but the square holes 13. [ ] Clean crank arms and chainrings (if any).
look good, it means a damaged or poor-fitting arm has In step #14, inspect inside the square hole in the crank
been replaced; the condition of the inward end of the arm for damage. A normal hole will have four flat sides
square hole is the final determining factor. and maybe a burr on each flat where the end of the spindle
Mark from crank arm
flat stopped. When an arm is ridden while it is loose, the
spindle rotates slightly inside the hole of the arm. This
shows up as extra indentations on the edge of the hole
(see the following illustration for clarification).
View is from
back face of
arms
20.8 The marks on the left spindle indicate good fit

because they do not cover the full length of the spindle
flat. The marks on the right spindle indicate poor fit 20.9 Compare the hole in the left crank arm (good) to
because they cover the full length of the spindle flat. the hole in the right crank arm (damaged).
11. Standard only: Inspect marks on spindle flats Once this happens, the arm has a tendency to loosen
and circle one choice for each arm removed, up rapidly after proper installation. The best solution
then inspect square hole on inner face of is to replace the arm. A temporary repair using Loctite
arm(s) if “not OK” choice is checked: RC680 (bearing supply houses) on the mating surfaces
[ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one) of the spindle and arm may be attempted, if the dam-
[ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one) age is not severe. Be aware that each time the damaged
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced. arm is removed and reinstalled a fresh application of
Self extractor only: Unthread self-extractor
RC680 is required.
ring, remove bolt and washer from threaded
14. Inspect inside square hole in each crank arm
hole, remove anti-friction washer (brass or
for deformed flats and circle one choice for
plastic) from inside face of ring or from bolt
each arm removed (see figure 20-9):
head, then inspect marks on spindle flats
[ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one)
and circle one choice for each arm removed.
[ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one)
Inspect square hole on inner face of arm(s) if
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced!
“not OK” choice is checked:
15. Inspect arm for cracks originating at square
hole in each crank arm and circle one choice
for each arm removed:
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced.
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced!
16. Inspect for cracks originating at pedal-mounting
OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING hole in each crank arm and circle one choice
12. [ ] Optional: Remove chainrings (see REMOVAL, for each arm removed:
INSTALLATION, AND ALIGNMENT, page 23-9). [ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one)
17. [ ] Inspect right arm (if removed) for cracks at
crotch of spider arms to crank arm.
OK? not OK? (circle one)
NOTE: If not OK, arm must be replaced!
20 – 9
CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION In step #22 and some later steps, spin the crank
and check chainring wobble. If the front derailleur is
18. [ ] Install chainrings, if removed (see ASSEMBLY
OF CHAINRINGS TO CRANK ARM, page 23-11). still mounted and the cable hooked up, the best way to
NOTE: If reinstalling a single arm that was check chainring wobble is to position the nose of the
removed, skip to step 33. derailleur’s outer plate directly over the outer chainring.
In steps #19 through #31, install a right arm in all four Sight down through the outer plate of the derailleur
possible positions in order to determine the position that while spinning the crank and observe to what degree
results in the least chainring wobble. There is imprecision in the chainring moves inside and outside of the nose of
both the fabrication of the spindle flats and in the fabrica- the derailleur’s outer plate.
tion of the square hole in the crank arm. In some combina- If the front derailleur is not set up, use another
tions, the imprecision of each will add together to cause the method to check wobble. Brace a hand against a frame
chainrings to wobble unacceptably. In other combinations, tube and position the tip of a finger lightly against the
the imprecision of each will cancel the other out, allowing inside face of the teeth of the outer chainring. As the
the chainrings to run relatively true. This is why it is best to rings spin, see and feel the teeth move toward and away
try mounting the crank arm in all four positions. from the finger.
The above-mentioned technique requires that the arm
be somewhat secured on the spindle. Of course, this could
be done by securing the arm with the nut/bolt, checking the
chainring wobble, removing the nut/bolt, and then using the
extractor to remove the arm so that another position could
be checked. This method is good, but time consuming. The
method described in the following steps uses a soft ham-
mer to strike the arm on and off, which saves considerable
time and effort. If done properly, it is effective and does not
damage any equipment. If unwilling to strike the crank arm
with a soft hammer, then use normal mounting and removal 20.11 Use the tip of a finger against the inner face of
procedures wherever the step suggests using a hammer. the outer chainring teeth. As the chainrings spin, check
the degree of wobble.
Installing a pair of crank arms 22. [ ] Check that crank arm is not loose on spindle
19. [ ] Use a marker to mark one corner between
and spin crank to check degree of outer-
two flats on right end of spindle. NOTE:
chainring wobble (check at teeth). NOTE:
Standard configuration is with diagonal of
In later steps, comparisons are made to
square hole in arm in line with axis of arm.
amount of wobble seen in this step. No
Occasionally arms have square holes rotated
method of quantification is available—rely on
45º from this, with flats of hole parallel to
making mental “video.”
and perpendicular to axis of arm. In this case,
mark a flat for this step, instead of a corner.
20. [ ] Turn spindle so that mark is at 12:00.
Rubber head
Plastic head
20.10 Strike the crank arm with a rubber/plastic mal-

let to temporarily secure the arm to the spindle. Pull on
20.12 Tap on the back of the crank arm with the
the arm to check that it does not jiggle or come off.
rubber/plastic mallet to remove the crank arm in order to
21. [ ] Place right crank arm on spindle so that arm check chainring wobble in another of the four possible
points to 6:00 and tap firmly on with rubber/ mounting positions of the right crank arm.
plastic mallet. 23. [ ] Tap on back of crank arm with rubber/plastic
mallet to remove arm.
20 – 10
24. [ ] Rotate spindle so that mark is at 3:00 and NOTE: In step 33, the spindle is cleaned with
place right crank arm on spindle so that arm solvent, which may remove the mark. Do not
points to 6:00. Tap firmly on with rubber/ rotate spindle from position set in step 32 or
plastic mallet. steps 19–32 must be repeated!
25. Check that crank arm is not loose on spindle 33. [ ] Clean flats on spindle end and in crank-arm
and spin crank to check degree of chainring square hole with zero-residue solvent (such
wobble. Check one of following choices: as alcohol).
[ ] Better than previous check. 34. [ ] Grease steel washer (if any), bolt or nut
[ ] No better than previous check. threads, and under bolt head or nut flange.
26. [ ] Tap on back of crank arm with rubber/plastic NOTE: Go to step 38 if one crank arm was
mallet to remove arm. removed and only one needs to be installed.
27. [ ] Rotate spindle so that mark is at 6:00 and
place right crank arm on spindle so that arm SQUARE-FIT CRANK TORQUES (table 20-2)
points to 6:00. Tap firmly on with rubber/ Manufacturer Minimum–Maximum Torque
plastic mallet. Campagnolo 285–335in-lbs
28. Check that crank arm is not loose on spindle
Full Speed Ahead (FSA) 304–347in-lbs
and spin crank to check degree of chainring
wobble. Check one of following choices: Race Face 420–480in-lbs
[ ] Better than both previous checks. Shimano 305–390in-lbs
[ ] No better than both previous checks. TruVativ 335–370in-lbs
29. [ ] Tap on back of crank arm with rubber/plastic
mallet to remove arm. Installing right arm
30. [ ] Rotate spindle so that mark is at 9:00 and 35. [ ] Place right arm on spindle so arm is at 6:00
place right crank arm on spindle so that arm position.
points to 6:00. Tap firmly on with rubber/ 36. Install washer (if any) and bolt or nut, then
plastic mallet. torque to one of following choices:
31. Check that crank arm is not loose on spindle [ ] Manufacturer’s maximum recommended
and spin crank to check degree of chainring torque (see table 20-2 or manufacturer’s
wobble. Check one of following choices: published recommendations), then check for
[ ] Better than all previous checks. ≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame.
[ ] No better than all previous checks. [ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda-
32. [ ] Tap on back of crank arm with rubber/plastic tions, torque to 350in-lbs, then check for
mallet to remove arm. Rotate spindle to posi- ≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame.
tion that was set in highest-numbered step 37. [ ] Standard only: Treat dustcap threads (if
in which Better choice was checked (steps any) with Loctite 242 and gently secure
25, 28, or 31). If Better choice was never (unthreaded dustcap, just press in).
checked, rotate spindle so mark is at 12:00. Self extractor only: Install anti-friction washer
In step #33, prepare the arm for installation by (if any) to bolt head, grease inside face of
cleaning the mating surfaces of the spindle and arm with ring, treat ring threads with Loctite 242, then
acetone or alcohol. The purpose of this is to remove thread ring in fully. DO NOT SNUG!
any traces of lubricant. Since these two pieces are held Installing second arm
together by friction, grease or oil may enable the arm to 38. [ ] Place arm on spindle so that it points 180°
go on further (not necessarily a good idea). Further is away from already-installed arm.
not more secure if arrived at by using lubrication. Crank 39. Install washer (if any) and bolt or nut, then
manufacturers are unanimous in recommending against torque to one of following choices:
lubrication of the spindle when mounting the arm. Argu- [ ] Manufacturer’s maximum recommended
torque (see table 20-2 or manufacturer’s
ments to the contrary have been voiced, but never lubricate
published recommendations), then check for
the spindle flats! If there is a concern about preventing cor- ≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame.
rosion or about contaminants getting in the gaps between [ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda-
the spindle flats and the hole flats in the arm, then treat the tions, torque to 350in-lbs, then check for
mating surfaces with Loctite 222 or 242 (bearing-supply or ≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame.
automotive-supply stores). The Loctite will seal the surfaces
from moisture or dirt, reduce creaking problems, will not
cause the arms to be less secure, and will allow arm removal
with normal effort.
20 – 11
40. [ ] Standard only: Treat dustcap threads (if 42. Measure chainring-to-chain-stay clearance and
any) with Loctite 242 and gently secure check one of following choices (measure
(unthreaded dustcap, just press in). clearance to seat tube if bike has raised
Self extractor only: Install anti-friction washer chain stays):
(if any) to bolt head, grease inside face of [ ] Clearance is ≥2mm (ignore for bikes with
ring, treat ring threads with Loctite 242, then raised chain stays) and clearance is >.2mm
thread ring in fully. DO NOT SNUG! different than number in step 2. NOTE:
Front-derailleur limit screws and cable will
Checking need for front-derailleur need adjustment!
adjustment [ ] Clearance is <2mm. NOTE: Replacement arm
41. [ ] Measure chainring-to-frame clearance (as in is unacceptable to use with existing spindle!
step 2), then compare current measurement [ ] Clearance is different by ≤.2mm from num-
to step 2. NOTE: If change is .5mm or more, ber in step 2. NOTE: Front-derailleur adjust-
front-derailleur performance will change! ment is not needed. Arm is a good fit.
NOTE: Skip to step 54 if arms installed are original In the next two steps, measure the chainline after install-
arms removed (not replacements). ing a new right crank arm to determine whether it has
been changed enough to create or solve a problem. Don’t
CHECKING FIT OF limit your focus to whether there is a measurable error, but
include whether the error has changed enough to introduce or
REPLACEMENT ARM eliminate chainline error symptoms. See CHAINLINE chapter for
Checking chainring fit if replacement information about how to measure chainline error (page
27-5) and symptoms of chainline error (page 27-3).
arm is a right arm 43. [ ] Measure chainline error, record here:
If using old chainrings with a new crank arm, check Chainrings out (+) or in (-) (circle one)
the CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-5) to determine Amount: __________
whether the new arm is compatible with the chainrings. 44. Compare step 43 to number and direction in
Chainring compatibility is not just a matter of whether step 3, then choose one of following choices:
the mounting holes in the chainrings and the crank arm [ ] Error is equal to step 3. NOTE: Arm is
match. With some chainrings, spacing between the two acceptable if no chainline-error symptoms
is critical and not universal. were experienced with original arm.
[ ] Error is in the same direction but less than
In the next step, measure the chainring clearance.
step 3. NOTE: Arm is acceptable unless
With the new arm installed, check the chainring position. previous chainline error was unacceptable
Any change in clearance could represent a potential prob- and change is not enough to eliminate symp-
lem with shifting, chainline alignment, and frame clear- toms. Bike should be evaluated for chainline-
ance. Step #42 establishes whether the chainrings have error symptoms!
changed position in a way that will cause a problem with [ ] Error is in new direction. NOTE: Bike should
frame clearances and whether they have changed position be evaluated for chainline-error symptoms.
enough to require adjustment of the front derailleur. Step [ ] Error is in same direction but greater. NOTE:
#43 and #44 establish whether any chainline error has Bike should be evaluated for chainline-error
worsened or improved. symptoms!
Some bikes have raised chain stays (chain stays that are Checking fit of replacement arm(s)
above the chainrings and do not overlap the chainrings) NOTE: Perform steps 45–53 complete for one arm
or rear-suspension arms/links that do not overlap the before doing 45–53 for a second arm.
chainrings. In these cases, clearance between the chainrings When installing mismatched brands of arm and
and the frame is no longer an issue. However, changes in spindle or installing a used arm on a different spindle,
chainring position still affect front-derailleur adjustment it is important to check whether the arm and spindle
and chainline. With these bikes, clearance to the chain are a compatible fit. The only practical way to check this
stays cannot be measured, so the distance between the is to remove the arms again and inspect the conditions
chainrings and another frame part should be measured. found during and after removal. If everything is fine,
then just reinstall the arms. To avoid having to re-find
the best of four positions for the right arm, do not
remove both arms at once.
45. [ ] Remove dust cap (if any) or remove self-
extractor ring.
20 – 12
46. [ ] Remove nuts or bolts/washers. 9mm 2.8mm
47. Inspect crank-arm fit (spindle-end recessed or
not to outer end of square hole) and circle
one choice for each arm removed:
Long spline
and snug with wrench. 5mm 2.2mm
49. Check with fingers whether extractor shaft
turns and check one of following choices:
[ ] Shaft is tight; loosen it further and re-snug Short spline
extractor into crank.
[ ] Shaft is loose; ready for arm removal.
51. [ ] With arm still on spindle (but loose), break 20.13 Shimano Octalink spline configurations.
loose extractor from crank arm.
52. Inspect marks on spindle flats and circle one
choice for each arm removed: IF REPLACING ARM(S) OR TO
[ ] Right arm OK?
[ ] Left arm OK?
not OK? (circle one)
not OK? (circle one) FACILITATE CLEANING
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced! 1. [ ] Optionally, remove pedal(s). See PEDAL
53. [ ] Repeat steps 38–40 for each arm removed. REMOVAL procedure (page 24-3).
INSTALL PEDALS PREPARATION AND PRE-

54. [ ] Install pedal(s) if removed. See PEDAL INSTAL-
LATION procedure (page 24-4).
REMOVAL INSPECTIONS
In the next step, measure the clearance between the
right-crank assembly and the chain stay. The chain stay
is the frame tube that runs from the bottom bracket to
SPLINE-FIT CRANK ARMS the rear dropout. If the bike has raised chain stays (they
connect to the seat tube above the front derailleur) or rear-
suspension arms or links positioned completely above the
TYPES chain, measure to the side of the seat tube instead. The
measurement is useful, even if just reinstalling the same
Two common spline configurations exist. These are
the ISIS configuration and the Shimano Octalink con- crank arm, for two reasons.
figuration. The ISIS configuration is readily identified by First, due to frame flex and chainring flex, there must
its ten-spline count. The Shimano Octalink configuration be at least 2mm clearance between every part of the right-
is characterized by the presence of eight splines. Both crank assembly and the frame. Otherwise, frame damage
configurations are made by a variety of manufacturers, may occur while the bike is being ridden. Measuring before
so don’t rely on brand as a guideline to type. removal reveals a significant problem or borderline problem,
There are two types of Octalink spline patterns used. before going to the trouble of reinstalling the arm. If clear-
The original pattern, found on Shimano XTR, Dura-Ace, ance is poor before removal, it will be necessary to check and
Ultegra, and 105 crank arms and corresponding bottom replace a worn-out arm or put in a longer bottom-bracket
brackets are the “5mm-spline” type. The critical spline spindle if the arm is fine. If the clearance is marginal before
dimensions of this type are that the eight lands (ridges) removal, measuring will alert you to a potential problem
are 2.2mm thick and 5mm long. The second pattern, com- when the arm is reinstalled. Second, after reinstalling the
monly found on Shimano MTB cranks (except XTR) and original arm or installing a replacement arm, measuring the
corresponding bottom brackets, is the “9mm-spline” type. change in the clearance reveals whether it will be necessary
This type has eight lands that are each 2.8mm thick and to re-adjust the front derailleur.
9mm long, and it is not interchangeable with the 2.2 ×
5mm pattern. After seeing both, it is effortless to visu-
ally distinguish the types from each other by the relative
length of the splines.
20 – 13
5. [ ] Standard only: Remove bolt, then look closely
for washer in crank arm and remove it.
Self extractor only: Break loose bolt (bolt
torque is being released), continue to
unthread bolt, then break loose bolt again
Measure clearance (press fit is being released). NOTE: Hold on
at whichever is to arm while threading bolt out fully so arm
closest point will not fall off spindle.
NOTE: Self extractor only, steps 6–19 do not
20.14 Use a stack of feeler gauges to measure the apply. Go to step 10.
clearance between the chain stay and the part of the
crank assembly that comes closest to rubbing the
chain stay (or any other part of the frame).
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL
2. [ ] Measure clearance between chain stay and
part of right crank that comes closest to AND INSPECTION
chain stay (usually inner chainring or bolt In the following steps, a crank-arm extractor is
heads holding on inner chainring but occa- installed and a crank arm removed. This is a very critical
sionally another chainring). Record mea- procedure. If done improperly, the crank arm or the
surement here: _________mm spindle can be destroyed. See table 20-1 (page 20-4) to
NOTE: If rear stays or suspension arms are in select an appropriate extractor. It is critical that the extrac-
a position where chainring rub is not an issue,
tor is compatible with the thread of the crank arm and
measure clearance to a main-frame member.
with the shape of the end of the spindle. If using one
3. [ ] Measure chainline error:
Chainrings out (+) or in (–) (circle one) of the recommended tools, simply follow the guidelines
Amount: _______mm indicated in the table.
Many of the following steps have two alternate proce- If a spline-crank-specific tool is not available, then a
dures. One is for cranks that require a crank extractor and variety of adapters are available so that a tool made for a
the other is for cranks that have a self-extractor mechanism. square-fit crank may be used. Adapters are listed in table
The distinguishing features of self-extractor mechanisms 20-1 (page 20-4). The following procedure presumes a
are that there is a ring around the crank bolt with a hole in spline-specific tool is being used, so there are no com-
the center (through which the crank-bolt head can be seen), ments that say to install the adapter before the extractor
and the ring has pin holes or slots for the engagement of or to remove the adapter after removing the extractor.
a tool. If both features are not evident, the crank arm is When threading the extractor into the crank arm,
not self extracting. When steps throughout this procedure it should go in easily using just fingers. If the extractor
have variations due to these two designs, the variations are does not thread in easily, it may be cross-threading or the
labeled standard only or self extractor only. threads may be damaged. To avoid cross-threading, align
NOTE: Since most steps in this procedure must the shaft of the extractor in line with the spindle axis rather
be done once for one arm and again for the than perpendicular to the face of the crank arm. If the
second arm, mark completion of each step for threads are damaged, move ahead to the section of this
first arm with a slash [/] and mark completion chapter titled REMOVING CRANK ARMS WITH DAMAGED
of each step for second arm by adding a back- EXTRACTOR THREADS (page 20-17).
ward slash [\] so that each step completed for
both arms is then marked with an [X].
4. [ ] Self extractor only: Check that ring is fully
engaged (rarely, ring may be left-hand thread).
NOTE: Ring should not be tightened—
removal will be difficult! If ring is not fully
engaged, watch carefully during step 5 for
ring unthreading further while loosening bolt!
There is a possibility that the crank arm is self extract-
ing. In this case, the arm will come off as the bolt is loos-
ened, and the arm and bolt will stay together as a unit. If
this is the case, watch closely for the ring around the bolt 20.15 The drawing shows that a properly installed
head unthreading as the bolt is loosened. extractor must be in line with the spindle axis but not
necessarily perpendicular to the face of the crank arm.
20 – 14
In step #6, the extractor is secured in the arm with a Inspect for a bolt or washer that was not removed. Inspect
wrench. There is no particular torque and a lot of force thread compatibility of the extractor to the crank arm, and
is not required. The purpose is simply to ensure that the inspect for compatibility of the extractor type with the spindle
extractor is fully installed instead of just hanging up on a type. If no problems are found, then the only problem might
rough thread. If it is installed fully and it begins to rotate be that the arm is seized to the spindle. Flood the hole with
further during arm removal, stop the procedure before penetrating oil and attempt removal again.
unrecoverable damage occurs.
NOTE: Using a square-fit-specific tool without an
adapter will be completely ineffective and may
destroy the bottom bracket!
and snug with wrench.
A common mistake is to fail to install the extractor all Clockwise
until arm
the way in because the extractor shaft bottoms against the removes
spindle before the extractor is fully threaded into the crank
arm. Step #7 is a safety check so that this does not hap-
pen. If everything is set up right when the extractor body
is secured with a wrench, it should still be possible to turn
the extractor shaft either way with fingers. If the extractor
shaft cannot be turned with fingers, the shaft is engaging
the spindle before the extractor body is fully engaged in the
crank-arm threads. When there is poor thread engagement,
crank-arm-thread failure is likely to occur.
Loose
Tight 20.17 Turn the extractor shaft clockwise with a

wrench to remove the crank arm.
9. [ ] With arm still on spindle but loose, break
loose extractor from crank arm.
20.16 When the extractor is properly installed and 10. [ ] Self extractor only: Unthread self-extractor
when ready to remove the arm, the extractor body ring, remove bolt and washer from threaded
should be tight and the shaft should be loose and easily hole, and remove anti-friction washer (brass
turned with fingers. or plastic) from inside face of ring or from
7. Check with fingers whether extractor shaft bolt head. NOTE: Many self-extracting bolts
turns and check one of following choices: have built-in steel washers or plastic washers
[ ] Shaft is tight, loosen it further and re-snug that are snapped into groove in bolt head. Do
extractor into crank. not use force to remove any washers!
[ ] Shaft is loose, ready for arm removal.
In step #8, tighten the extractor shaft to remove the
crank arm. At this point in the procedure, there is still a pos-
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM
sibility of removal failure and damage to the crank arm. If OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING
the correct warning signs are looked for during arm removal, 11. [ ] Optional: Remove chainrings (see REMOVAL,
it may be possible to detect a failure before the damage gets INSTALLATION, AND ALIGNMENT, page 23-9).
critical, solve the cause of the problem, and then successfully
remove the arm. While tightening the extractor shaft, simulta-
neously watch for either of the following warning signs. First,
DAMAGE INSPECTION
12. Inspect arm for cracks originating at spline hole
if the extractor body starts to rotate, the crank-arm extractor-threads in each crank arm and circle one choice for
may be stripping. Second, if the extractor appears to begin pulling out each arm removed:
of the arm (or starts cocking to one side in the arm), the crank-arm [ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one)
extractor-threads may be pulling out. In both cases, immediately stop [ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one)
tightening the extractor shaft and remove the extractor from the arm. NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced!
20 – 15
13. Inspect for cracks originating at pedal-mounting
hole in each crank arm and circle one choice
Installing second arm
21. [ ] Place arm on spindle so that it points 180°
for each arm removed: away from already-installed arm, then check
[ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one) engagement of splines by holding one arm
[ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one) stationary and trying to rotate other arm.
NOTE: If not OK, arm(s) must be replaced! 22. Install washer (if any) and bolt or nut, then
14. [ ] Inspect right arm (if removed) for cracks at torque to one of following choices:
crotch of spider arms to crank arm. [ ] Manufacturer’s maximum recommended
OK? not OK? (circle one) torque (see table 20-3 or manufacturer’s
NOTE: If not OK, arm must be replaced! published recommendations), then check for
≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame.
CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION [ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions, torque to 420in-lbs, then check for
15. [ ] Install chainrings, if removed (see ASSEMBLY
OF CHAINRINGS TO CRANK ARM, page 23-11).
23. [ ] Self extractor only: Install anti-friction washer
Installing a pair of crank arms (if any) to bolt head, grease inside face of
16. [ ] ISIS only: Use grease or anti-seize com- ring, treat ring threads with Loctite 242, then
pound to treat spindle splines. thread ring in fully. DO NOT SNUG!
Octalink only: Grease spindle splines and cylin-
drical taper immediately inward from splines.
Checking need for front-derailleur
17. [ ] Grease steel washer (if any), bolt threads, adjustment
and under bolt head. 24. [ ] Measure chainring-to-frame clearance (as in
NOTE: Go to step 21 if one crank arm was step 2), then compare current measurement
removed and only one needs to be installed. to step 2. NOTE: If change is .2mm or more,
front-derailleur performance will change!
Installing right arm NOTE: Skip to step 28 if arms installed are original
18. [ ] Place right arm on spindle so splines are arms removed (not replacements).
engaged. Check engagement by holding left
end of spindle stationary and trying to rotate
right crank arm. CHECKING FIT OF
19. Install washer (if any) and bolt, then torque to
one of following choices: REPLACEMENT ARM
[ ] Manufacturer’s maximum recommended
torque (see table 20-3 or manufacturer’s
Checking chainring fit if replacement
published recommendations), then check for arm is a right arm
≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame. If using old chainrings with a new crank arm, check
[ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda- the CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-5) to determine
tions, torque to 420in-lbs, then check for whether the new arm is compatible with the chainrings.
≥2mm clearance of chainrings to frame. Chainring compatibility is not just a matter of whether
20. [ ] Self extractor only: Install anti-friction washer the mounting holes in the chainrings and the crank arm
(if any) to bolt head, grease inside face of match. With some chainrings, spacing between the two
ring, treat ring threads with Loctite 242, then is critical and not universal.
thread ring in fully. DO NOT SNUG!!
In the next step, measure the chainring clearance.
SPLINE-FIT CRANK TORQUES (table 20-3) With the new arm installed, check the chainring position.
Manufacturer Minimum–Maximum Torque Any change in clearance could represent a potential prob-
lem with shifting, chainline alignment, and frame clear-
Full Speed Ahead (FSA) 434–521in-lbs
ance. Step #25 establishes whether the chainrings have
Race Face First installation: 480in-lbs
changed position in a way that will cause a problem with
Reinstallation: 420in-lbs
frame clearances and whether they have changed position
Shimano 305–435in-lbs
enough to require adjustment of the front derailleur. Step
TruVativ 385–420in-lbs #26 and #27 establish whether any chainline error has
worsened or improved.
Some bikes have raised chain stays (chain stays that are
above the chainrings and do not overlap the chainrings)
or rear-suspension arms/links that do not overlap the
20 – 16
chainrings. In these cases, clearance between the chainrings
and the frame is no longer an issue. However, changes in REMOVING CRANK
chainring position still affect front-derailleur adjustment
and chainline. With these bikes, clearance to the chain
ARMS WITH DAMAGED
stays cannot be measured, so the distance between the
chainrings and another frame part should be measured.
EXTRACTOR THREADS
25. Measure chainring-to-chain-stay clearance and
check one of following choices (measure MANGLED THREADS
clearance to seat tube if bike has raised With luck, the only problem being experienced is
chain stays): getting the extractor to start threading into the crank
[ ] Clearance is ≥2mm (ignore for bikes with
arm without jamming. For square-fit crank arms only,
raised chain stays) and clearance is >.2mm
different than number in step 2. NOTE:
there is a simple repair. The tool needed is a Bicycle
Front-derailleur limit screws and cable will Research TC-8 crank-arm-thread chaser. This simple
need adjustment! tool has a pilot shaft that attaches to the spindle once
[ ] Clearance is <2mm. NOTE: Replacement arm the nut/bolt is removed. A thread chaser slips over the
is unacceptable to use with existing spindle! pilot and then threads into the crank arm, re-aligning
[ ] Clearance is different by ≤.2mm from num- the mangled threads. Removal of the crank arm is then
ber in step 2. NOTE: Front-derailleur adjust- done normally after removing the TC-8.
ment is not needed. Arm is a good fit.
In the next two steps, measure the chainline after install-
ing a new right crank arm to determine whether it has
been changed enough to create or solve a problem. Don’t Cutting oil
limit your focus to whether there is a measurable error, but
include whether the error has changed enough to introduce or
eliminate chainline error symptoms. See CHAINLINE chapter for
information about how to measure chainline error (page
TC-8
26. Measure chainline error, record here:
Chainrings out (+) or in (-) (circle one) Pilot
Amount: __________ (threaded to
27. Compare step 26 to number and direction in spindle)
step 3, then choose one of following choices:
[ ] Error is equal to step 3. NOTE: Arm is
20.18 After attaching the pilot shaft to the spindle,
acceptable if no chainline-error symptoms
thread the chaser part of the TC-8 into the crank arm to
were experienced with original arm. re-align the threads.
[ ] Error is in the same direction but less than
step 3. NOTE: Arm is acceptable unless 1. [ ] Attach pilot shaft to spindle.
previous chainline error was unacceptable 2. [ ] Lubricate threads of thread chaser with alu-
and change is not enough to eliminate symp- minum cutting oil or other very light oil.
toms. Bike should be evaluated for chainline- 3. [ ] Slip chaser onto pilot shaft and thread
error symptoms! chaser into crank arm. Resistance may be
[ ] Error is in new direction. NOTE: Bike should encountered and force may be necessary to
be evaluated for chainline-error symptoms. thread chaser in fully.
[ ] Error is in same direction but greater. NOTE: 4. [ ] Remove thread chaser and pilot and attempt
Bike should be evaluated for chainline-error normal removal of crank arm. If threads fail,
symptoms! proceed to STRIPPED THREADS.
INSTALL PEDALS STRIPPED THREADS

28. [ ] Install pedal(s) if removed. See PEDAL INSTAL-
LATION procedure (page 24-4).
Repair with Stein CES
The Stein CES can be used to replace stripped threads
in crank arms attached to a square spindle and retained
by a bolt. It can also be used to replace stripped threads
in crank arms attached to a splined spindle and retained
20 – 17
by a bolt with a 15mm-diameter thread. This tool cannot Removal of arm for replacement
be used with splined spindles that accept a bolt with a Stripped threads are clearly identified when the
12mm-diameter thread. extractor pulls out of the arm, instead of the arm pulling
1. [ ] Remove all rings, bolts, and washers from
off of the spindle when attempting arm removal. In this
crank arm with damaged thread.
case, count on needing a new arm (if Stein CES repair is
2. [ ] Thread CES pilot shaft into hole in spindle.
3. [ ] Treat CES tap generously with cutting oil, not an option). The problem is how to get the arm off in
then use tap to create new threads in crank order to replace it. The following steps actually include
arm. NOTE: Use of standard cut-and-clear two methods for arm removal. If at the end of step #4
tapping technique is critical to success. the arm has loosened adequately, then no more is needed.
4. [ ] Remove tap and pilot shaft, then thoroughly If not, continue to the end of the steps.
clean new threads and spindle hole. Many modern right arms are shaped in such a way that
There are two options once the thread is repaired. there is no flat surface to strike with the hammer (see figure
The least-expensive option is to rely on the CES crank 20.19). Since the arm should be considered a loss already,
extractor for all future crank removals. This tool is the solution to this is not as drastic as it sounds. Remove
part of the kit (also available separately), but relying the chainrings and use a hacksaw to cut off the chainring-
on the CES extrator for all future removals limits the mounting arm that is just past the chainring-mounting arm
customer to service in shops that are equipped with that is immediately adjacent to the crank arm. This should
the CES extractor (not common). The other alterna- create the spot needed to strike with the hammer.
tive is to sell the CES self extractor to the customer, 1. [ ] Reinstall any arm or pedals that have been
so the crank can removed with a standard hex key from removed and put bike in rideable condition.
this point on. If taking the first option, simply install 2. [ ] Install nut/bolt onto spindle on side with
the CES extractor at this point and perform a normal stripped extractor threads in arm, then
removal with a crank extractor. Continue with step #5 loosen nut/bolt 2–3 full turns.
3. [ ] In a parking lot free of traffic or up a steep hill,
if installing the CES self extractor.
ride bike hard. (Use brakes to create resistance
5. [ ] Grease steel washer that goes between
in flat parking lots.) Crank arm should loosen
bolt head and arm, grease bolt threads, and
noticeably. If not, proceed to next step.
grease under bolt head.
4. [ ] Back in shop, remove nut/bolt fully.
6. Square-fit only: Install washer (if any) and bolt,
then torque to one of following choices:
torque (see table 20-2 on page 20-11 or
manufacturer’s published recommenda-
tions), then check for ≥2mm clearance of
chainrings to frame.
[ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions, torque to 350in-lbs, then check for
7. Spline-fit only: Install washer (if any) and bolt,
then torque to one of following choices:
torque (see table 20-3 on page 20-16 or
manufacturer’s published recommenda-
tions), then check for ≥2mm clearance of
chainrings to frame.
[ ] In absence of manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions, torque to 420in-lbs, then check for Anvil
8. [ ] Install anti-friction washer (if any) to bolt 20.19 With the nut/bolt removed and the arm supported
head, grease inside face of ring, treat ring on an anvil or similar surface, strike hard and repeatedly
threads with Loctite 242, then thread ring in with a ballpeen hammer to get the arm to pop off.
fully. DO NOT SNUG!
9. [ ] Use self-extractor method to remove arm.
20 – 18
NOTE: Following procedure has not been checked 2. [ ] Remove right arm/chainring assembly from
on spline-fit crank arms; use only as a last right side of bottom bracket, noting O-ring in
resort on spline-fit arms! Potential problems are holder on back face of arm.
either nothing will happen or bottom bracket 3. [ ] Use Shimano TL-FC32 to remove bear-
will be destroyed. ing assemblies, noting positions of spacers
5. [ ] With crank arm horizontal, support crank between cups and shell.
arm under end in which spindle is inserted
on anvil or some other firm support. NOTE: Bottom-bracket installation
It is probably necessary to saw off chainring 1. [ ] Treat threads with Loctite 242.
mounting arms (if not removable type) to do 2. [ ] 68mm shell only: Install main assembly into
this step to right crank arm. right end of shell with two spacers between
6. [ ] Strike top side of arm with a ballpeen ham- right end of shell and assembly.
mer as hard as possible with control. Strike 68mm shell with E-type derailleur only:
repeatedly until crank arm pops off of spin- Install main assembly into right end of shell
dle. (Arm is not reusable.) with one spacer adjacent to shell and derail-
leur bracket between spacer and inside face
of bearing housing.
73mm shell only: Install main assembly into
SPLIT-SPLINE CRANKS right end of shell with one spacer between

right end of shell and assembly.
Split-spline crank arms are technically not press-fit 68mm shell with E-type derailleur only:
arms but are covered in this chapter since there is no Install main assembly into right end of shell
more appropriate chapter. Split-spline crank arms con- with derailleur bracket between shell and
nect to a splined spindle that has no taper. The crank arm inside face of bearing housing.
has a compression slot (split) in the end of the arm that 3. [ ] Install left-side bearing assembly into shell.
attaches to the spindle. A binder bolt or two binder bolts 4. [ ] E-type derailleur only: Align derailleur
bracket with stud on frame, then install and
are tightened to compress the hole in the arm and secure
secure bolt.
the arm to the spindle. 5. [ ] Using Shimano TL-FC32, secure both sides
to equivalent of 305–435in-lbs.
GENERAL GUIDELINES Installing right-side assembly
The mating surfaces of the arm and spindle should be 6. [ ] Grease spindle of assembly thoroughly.
liberally greased or treated with an anti-sieze compound. The 7. [ ] Install O-ring holder (flat-face first) onto
binder bolt(s) should have the threads and under the head spindle, then place O-ring inside holder.
treated with grease or an anti-seize compound. There may be 8. [ ] Install assembly into bottom-bracket shell.
a bolt that threads into the end of the spindle that caps the Installing left arm and setting preload
hole, acts as a secondary retention device, and/or acts as an 9. [ ] Remove binder bolts from left arm and
adjustment for the preload on the bottom-bracket bearings. grease threads and under bolt heads.
When this spindle-end bolt performs a preload function, it 10. [ ] Install O-ring onto left end of spindle.
is adjusted when the binder bolt(s) on the split are loosened. 11. [ ] Install left arm 180º from right arm (wide
The spindle-end bolt may need to be torqued, but depending spline inside arm should align with wide
on its function, the torque might be applied before or after the groove in left end of spindle).
binder bolt(s) are torqued. Contact the crank manufacturer 12. [ ] Treat threads of spindle-cap bolt with Loctite
242, install bolt into left end of spindle,
for more specific guidelines on procedures and torques. These
then secure bolt to approximately 4–6in-lbs
guidlines apply to unspecified brands. See the next section (using Shimano TL-FC16).
for Shimano XTR (FC-M960).
Securing left arm
13. [ ] Install binder bolts into holes in spindle end
SHIMANO XTR SPLIT-SPLINE of left arm.
CRANK ARMS (FC-M960) 14. [ ] Tighten both bolts to 90–130in-lbs. NOTE:
Torquing each bolt once is not sufficient!
Crank-arm/bottom-bracket removal After torquing each bolt, return to previ-
1. [ ] Use Shimano TL-FC16 to remove spindle- ous bolt and check torque again—continue
cap bolt from left arm, loosen binder bolts, cycling between bolts until both fail to turn
then pull left arm off spindle. prior to moment torque wrench is indicating
torque has been achieved!
20 – 19
CRANK-ARM TROUBLESHOOTING (table 20-4)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When riding, one ankle feels as though the end of the pedal is rocking up and down and/or
it feels as though the surface of the pedal is rotating back and forth.
Pedal shaft is bent from a crash. Remove pedal and inspect end of pedal shaft for oscilla-
tion when rotating. Replace if bad. If symptom persists
when pedal shaft is good, crank arm is bent and should
be replaced.
If pedal shaft is not bent, crank arm is bent. Replace crank arm.
SYMPTOM: A popping sound or sensation is experienced once per crank revolution, often on the down
stroke of the right pedal.
Loose crank arm. Check and secure crank arm.
Loose pedal-body piece(s). Check and secure pedal-body piece(s).
Loose pedal mounting. Check and secure pedal mounting.
Loose chainring-mounting bolt(s). Check and secure chainring-mounting bolt(s).
Loose bottom-bracket cup, lockring, or Check and secure bottom-bracket cups, lockrings, or
retaining ring. retaining rings.
Bent chainring tooth. Inspect and bend back.
SYMPTOM: A ticking or scraping sound is heard once per crank revolution.
Loose crank arm causing chainring wobble, Check and secure crank arm.
causing chain to scrape derailleur cage.
Crank arm is hitting front-derailleur cage. Re-adjust front-derailleur limit screws and/or rotational
alignment.
SYMPTOM: Chainrings, chainring-mounting bolts, or some other part of the crank-arm assembly is rub-
bing the chain stay continuously or intermittently when the crank is being spun when not under load.
Crank arms worn out or bad fit to spindle. Perform removal process, including fit inspections.
Bottom bracket spindle is too short. Replace spindle or cartridge bottom bracket with one that
will position crank arm out further.
SYMPTOM: Wear marks are found on the chain stay where they might have been left by the
chainrings, chainring-mounting bolts, or some other part of the crank-arm assembly, but no rubbing is
evident upon visual inspection.
Clearance that is adequate without load is Check for and replace worn-out or misfit crank arm.
not adequate when crank assembly and/or Replace spindle or cartridge bottom bracket with one that
frame flexes under load. will position crank arm out further.
SYMPTOM: Extractor mounting threads fail when crank-arm removal is attempted.
Extractor was not fully threaded into Attempt repair with Bicycle Research TC-8 thread chaser.
crank arm. If threads fail completely when attempting removal again,
use Stein CES procedure or procedure for removing crank
arms with damaged extractor-mounting threads.
Crank-arm removal was attempted with- Attempt repair with Bicycle Research TC-8 thread chaser.
out removal of the retaining nut or bolt, or If threads fail completely when attempting removal again,
without removal of the washer that was use Stein CES procedure or procedure for removing crank
under the bolt head. arms with damaged extractor-mounting threads.
Crank arm was mounted excessively Use Stein CES procedure or procedure for removing crank
tightly. arms with damaged extractor-mounting threads.
Continued
20 – 20
CRANK-ARM TROUBLESHOOTING (table 20-4 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: A creaking sound is coming from the crank, particularly under hard pedaling load.
Crank arm is loosening. Check and secure crank arm.
Mating surfaces of crank arm and spindle are con- Remove and clean mating surfaces. Optional: add
taminated. Loctite 242 or 222 to mating surfaces to fill gaps.
Crank arm is a poor fit to spindle due to incompat- Remove and inspect crank arm and spindle for
ibility or wear. evidence of poor fit. Replace if there is evidence
that fit is bad.
Loose chainring bolt(s). Check and secure chainring-mounting bolt(s).
Cracks in crank arm or chainring-mounting arms. Remove, clean, and inspect crank arm and
chainring-mounting arms.
Loose bottom-bracket cup, lockring, or retaining ring. Check and secure bottom-bracket cups, lockrings,
or retaining rings.
SYMPTOM: A crank arm is repeatedly loosening.
Inadequate torque. Use torque wrench, if not already used. Use maxi-
mum recommended torque, if not already used.
Crank arm is worn out and fits poorly, or is not Remove and inspect crank arm and spindle for
compatible with spindle and fits poorly. evidence of poor fit.
Crank-arm and spindle-mating surfaces are con- Clean mating surfaces and remount dry or with
taminated with lubricant (square-fit cranks, only). Loctite 242 or 222 on spindle flats.
20 – 21
21 – COTTERED CRANK ARMS
Crank arm Spindle Cotter pin
Face view Cross-section view

CRANK-ARM REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 21 – 3
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL 21 – 4
INSPECTION 21 – 5
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM, OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING 21 – 5
CRANK-ARM CLEANING 21 – 5
DETERMINE REPLACEMENT-COTTER-PIN SUITABILITY 21 – 5
CHECKING FIT OF REPLACEMENT CRANK ARM 21 – 7
COTTERED CRANK-ARM TROUBLESHOOTING 21 – 8
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Cottered crank: The term “cottered cranks” applies
to a crank-arm type that once was seen on almost all
This chapter is about removing and installing cottered
European imports but is now limited primarily to the sort
crank arms. There are different chapters for taper-fit crank
of inexpensive Asian imports found in department stores.
arms (20 – PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS) and for one-piece
The crank arms slip onto a round shaft and are retained
crank arms (22 – ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKS). There
by a pin (cotter pin) that goes through a hole in the arm
is also a separate chapter (23 – CHAINRINGS) that should
and a slot in the shaft.
be referred to if the chainrings will be removed, replaced,
Cotter pin: A round shaft with a sloped and tapered
or secured. There is also a separate chapter (24 – PEDAL
flat along its length and a threaded stud at one end.
REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION) that
includes information about pedal removal and installa-
tion, a job that is often done as part of crank-arm removal
and installation. Stud Taper Head
GENERAL INFORMATION 21.2 A cotter pin.

Cotter-pin head (or “head”): The end of the
TERMINOLOGY cotter-pin shaft without threads.
Crank arm Spindle Cotter pin Cotter-pin hole (or “pin hole”): The cotter pin
inserts in a small round hole in the crank arm into which
the cotter pin is inserted. This hole is perpendicular to the
hole in the crank arm for the bottom-bracket spindle.
Cotter-pin stud (or “stud”): The threaded stud
at one end of the cotter pin onto which a retaining nut
threads.
Cotter-pin taper (or “taper”): The shaft of the cot-
ter pin has a section cut off along the length of the pin
that is cut at an angle to the axis of the shaft. This results
in a flat surface that is sloped and tapers to a point at one
end. This is the taper.
Crank arm: The lever arm that attaches to the bottom-
bracket spindle at one end and the pedal at the other end.
The right crank arm has chainrings (gears) attached to it,
usually by means of chainring-mounting arms.
Face view Cross-section view Spindle hole: The large round hole in the crank arm
that the bottom-bracket spindle inserts in.
21.1 Face view and cross-section view of the end of
a cottered crank arm at the end joined to the bottom-
bracket spindle. PREREQUISITES
Chainrings: The gears attached to the right crank See the PREREQUISITES section of the preceding
arm that drive the chain when pedaling. chapter, PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS (page 20-2). All pre-
Chainring-mounting arms: The arms (usually three, requisites are the same for both types of crank designs.
occasionally five) that go from one end of the crank arm
out to the chainrings. The chainrings are attached to the
end of the chainring-mounting arms. Chainring-mounting
arms are also called spider arms.
21 – 1
INDICATIONS AND INSTALLATION (page 24-5), but sometimes it is neces-

sary to replace the crank arm.
Maintenance cycles
If properly installed, crank arms should not need any
routine maintenance. TOOL CHOICES
For many mechanics, the tool of choice to remove
Bottom-bracket service cotter pins is a hammer. This is a sure way to damage cotter
Crank arms must be removed to adjust, overhaul, or pins, achieve inadequate security, and dramatically increase
replace the bottom bracket. There may be no apparent the time it takes to complete the job. Special cotter-pin
problems with the crank arms, but this is an excellent presses are made by VAR and Park, but the Park CR-2 is
opportunity to check for potential problems. clearly superior to use and less than one-third the price
Symptoms indicating loose crank arms of the VAR. Some of this price savings is lost because it
One of the most persistent problems with crank arms is a good idea to have two Park CR-2 tools.
is that they work loose. This can strand the rider—and it One of the tools should be left in its original form and
can easily destroy the arm that works loose, an expensive be used exclusively for pin installation. The second CR-2
concern. Knocking or popping noises from the crank area should be permanently modified to make it more suitable
are a warning sign that the arms may be loosening. But for cotter-pin removal (and unsuitable for installation).
loose pedal parts and loose chainrings can cause similar Modifying a Park CR-2 for pin removal
noises, so check all these areas at the same time. When the The tip of the pressing shaft of the tool is a smooth
arm makes a knocking sound or feels loose while pedaling, shaft approximately 9mm long with an 11mm O.D. It needs
the situation is critical. to be modified on a grinder or with a file to be approximately
With proper installation, most riders do not need to 13–15mm long and less than 8.5mm O.D. This modifica-
periodically tighten the crank arms. tion does not have to be very precise. It can be done on a
Symptoms indicating damaged crank arms grinding wheel in 1–2 minutes.
When proper installation technique fails to keep the 9mm 13-15mm
arm secure, it means the cotter-pin hole in the arm is
deformed (enlarged or distorted). The crank arm should
12mm 8.5mm
be replaced.
Symptoms indicating bent crank arms Un-modified Park CR-2 Modified Park CR-2
Crank arms bend sometimes when the bike is crashed,
and they can bend from abusive jumping. The symptom 21.3 Modifying the end of a Park CR-2.
of a bent crank arm is an oscillating sensation felt in the This modification allows the tip of the tool to go
ankle while pedaling. This oscillation may feel like a twist- inside the pin hole in the arm, which is particularly useful
ing back and forth on the ball of the foot; it may feel like when the pin jams or when the stud bends and must be
the outer edge of the foot is rocking up and down; or it broken off (common).
may feel like both at once. The identical symptoms are
caused by bent pedal shafts, which can easily be damaged
by the same forces that damage crank arms. The first step TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
is to remove the pedal and look at the end of the pedal Crank-arm removal and reinstallation is a 1–2-
shaft as it rotates. If the end does not oscillate, then it is minute-per-arm job of little difficulty. Fitting a new
the crank arm that is bent. If it does oscillate, new pedals replacement crank arm, which can include chainring
are needed. If the symptom is still felt when riding with and pedal removal and installation, as well as front-
new pedals, then the arm is also bent. derailleur adjustment, is a 10–45 minute job of little
difficulty (unless derailleur adjustment is included, in
Symptoms indicating damaged pedal- which case difficulty may be high).
mounting threads
Pedal-mounting threads can be damaged from
improper pedal installation. The only symptom is difficulty
threading in the pedal. Sometimes it is repairable, which is
described in the chapter PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
21 – 2
COMPLICATIONS If installing a replacement right-side crank arm, the

chainrings may move in or out. This would necessitate
Tools not available changing both limit screws and the cable setting on the
Both the Park and VAR tools listed in TOOL CHOICES front derailleur. If the replacement crank arm has a large
are no longer available. At this time, no tools are being chainring of a different size, then derailleur height and
made for these procedures. A punch and hammer is the rotation would need to be reset (which leads to limit-screw
only known way to get these pins out without one of and cable adjustment, as well).
the recommended tools. With the crank arm supported
on the vise jaws and the jaws open enough to permit the
pin to clear, use the hammer and punch to drive out the ABOUT THE REST
pin. Installation is similar, except that the hammer is used OF THIS CHAPTER
directly on the pin head (no punch). The rest of this chapter is the procedure for crank-
Replacement cotter pins not available arm removal and installation. There are double check-
It is very unusual to be able to find exact replacement boxes next to all the steps that would be done twice, once
cotter pins. Included in this chapter are guidelines for deter- for each crank arm. It includes all the necessary steps for
mining suitability of a non-identical replacement and how crank-arm replacement except that it refers to other chap-
to accommodate a pin that is not suitable (page 21-5). ters for pedal and chainring removal and installation.
Replacement arm does not fit spindle

Depending on the country of origin, there is some
variation in spindle and spindle-hole diameters. English
and Japanese are interchangeable. French and Italian are
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL
interchangeable. AND INSTALLATION
Replacement arm changes
chainring clearance IF REPLACING ARM(S)
There is usually a 1–2mm range of position of the
arm on the spindle. First, try sliding the arm in or out to
OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING
1. [ ] [ ] Remove pedal(s) (optional). See PEDAL
improve the situation. REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION pro-
A non-identical right-side replacement arm may be a cedure (page 24-3).
suitable fit to a spindle but not necessarily put the chainrings
in the same position relative to the frame. This could be a
problem if the chainrings end up closer to the frame. The PREPARATION AND
following procedures have steps for checking the original
clearance and the clearance after installing a new right arm.
PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTIONS
In the next step, measure the clearance between the
Replacement arm changes chainline right-crank assembly and the chain stay. The chain stay
There is usually a 1–2mm range of position of the is the frame tube that runs from the bottom bracket
arm on the spindle. First, try sliding the arm in or out to to the rear dropout. If the bike has raised chain stays
improve the situation. (they connect to the seat tube above the front derail-
Because a replacement right-side arm can change the leur), measure to the side of the seat tube instead. The
chainring positions, it can change the alignment of the measurement is useful even if just reinstalling the same
chainrings to the rear cogs (chainline). The following pro- crank arm, for two reasons.
cedures have steps for checking chainline before and after, Due to frame flex and chainring flex, there must be
but the separate CHAINLINE chapter should be referred to at least 2mm clearance between any part of the right-
for help in how to measure chainline (page 27-6) and how crank assembly and the chain stay. Otherwise, rubbing
to identify whether an error is significant (page 27-3). that can damage the frame may occur while the bike is
being ridden. Measuring before removal can reveal a
New chainring-size/position changes significant problem or borderline problem before going
front-derailleur adjustment to the trouble of reinstalling the arm. If clearance is poor
There is usually a 1–2mm range of position of the before removal, it will be necessary to check and replace
arm on the spindle. First, try sliding the arm in or out to the arm if it is found to be worn out, or put in a longer
improve the situation. bottom-bracket spindle if the arm is fine. If the clearance
21 – 3
is marginal before removal, measuring it is a warning to
check carefully when the arm is reinstalled.
CRANK-ARM REMOVAL
From this point on, steps that need to be repeated for
After reinstalling the original arm or installing a
both arms (if servicing both arms) have two check-boxes.
replacement arm, measuring the change in the clear-
One is to use for the first arm and one for the second arm.
ance reveals whether it will be necessary to re-adjust
If only servicing one arm, use one check-box only and do
the front derailleur.
not repeat the step for the second arm.
5. [ ] [ ] Remove nut and washer from cotter pin.
Cotter pins can be difficult to remove; when they
are, the stud will almost always bend. Prevent this as
much as possible by using penetrating oil, as indicated
in the next step.
6. [ ] [ ] Flood both ends of pin with penetrating oil.
In the next step, cotter-pin removal is attempted. It is not
unusual for the stud to bend before removal is accomplished.
Measure clearance
If this occurs, don’t waste time straightening the stud and
trying removal again. Bend the stud back and forth until it
snaps off and continue the removal process without the stud.
The modified CR-2 is required for this purpose.
If you have only the non-modified Park CR-2, the
21.4 Use a stack of feeler gauges to measure the best approach is to break off the stud (bend it back and
clearance between the chain stay and the part of the
crank assembly that comes closest to rubbing the
forth), then insert an 8–10mm-length piece cut from the
chain stay. head-end of a used cotter pin between the CR-2 shaft and
the remainder of the stud. This insert needs to be smaller
2. [ ] Measure clearance between chain stay and
part of right crank that comes closest to or equal to the diameter of the cotter pin being removed.
chain stay (usually inner chainring or bolt The insert will have a tendency to cock to the side and
heads holding on inner chainring but occa- jam. The modified CR-2 is a much better solution to this
sionally another chainring). Record mea- common problem.
surement here: _______mm. If bike has raised
chain stays, measure to side of seat tube.
In the next step, measure the chainline error (detailed Crank arm
procedure on page 27-5). Chainline is covered in its own
Cotter-pin stud
chapter. Chainline is the alignment of the front gears to the
rear gears. It affects drive-train noise and shift performance. Park CR-2 shaft
Measure chainline now and then again after reinstalling the
original right arm or a new right arm. This measurement
allows you to know whether chainline has improved, stayed
the same, or gotten worse, in which case it would be nec-
essary to check for symptoms in order to determine whether
the error was significant. (See page 27-3.)
3. [ ] Measure chainline error: Chainrings out (+)
or in (–) (circle one)? Amount: __________
In the next step, the position of the right crank-arm Park CR-2
face relative to the right end of the spindle is measured, with
modified shaft
using the depth gauge of a caliper. There is usually a range
of position in which the arm can be installed. Taking this
measurement and reestablishing it during reinstallation 21.5 Correct set up of Park CR-2 for cotter-pin
avoids messing up the front-derailleur adjustment. removal.
4. [ ] Measure position of face of right crank arm 7. [ ] [ ] Install modified CR-2 so end of shaft is
relative to right end of spindle. against stud and turn handle clockwise to
Spindle protrusion/recess: _______mm drive cotter pin fully out.
8. [ ] [ ] Pull arm off end of spindle.
21 – 4
INSPECTION 1. Pin diameter must match. (Common sizes are

9.0mm and 9.5mm, but 8.0mm and 8.5mm sizes
9. Inspect pin holes in arms for enlargement and
for being ovalized: also exist.)
[ ] Right arm OK? not OK? (circle one) 2. Pressed-in pin must have head protruding from
If not OK, arm should be replaced. arm. If not, different pin must be used. See
[ ] Left arm OK? not OK? (circle one) example 1 (figure 21.7).
If not OK, arm should be replaced. 3. Pressed-in pin must have enough stud pro-
Burr truding to engage washer and nut. Pin can be
filed to improve this condition. See example 2
(figure 21.8).
4. Pressed-in pin should not have full stud exposed.
Notch
Washers with I.D. larger than pin can be used
over pin shaft to improve this condition. See
example 3 (figure 21.9, page 21-6).
21.6 Top cotter pin has burr but can be reused. Bot- 5. Pin-taper angles must match or arms will not
tom one is notched and must be replaced. be 180° apart. Both pins should be replaced
10. Inspect pin tapers on pins for notches or defor- to avoid this problem. See example 4 (figure
mation (burrs may be filed off): 21.10, page 21-6).
[ ] Right pin OK? not OK? (circle one)
If not OK, pin should be replaced.
[ ] Left pin OK? not OK? (circle one)
If not OK, pin should be replaced.
11. Thread nuts back onto studs to check for dam-
aged studs: Head does not protrude
[ ] Right pin OK? not OK? (circle one)
If not OK, pin should be repaired or replaced.
[ ] Left pin OK? not OK? (circle one)
If not OK, pin should be repaired or replaced.
IF REPLACING RIGHT ARM, 21.7 Example 1: The cotter pin in this picture does not
OR TO FACILITATE CLEANING have enough head protruding to allow further pressing
after break-in.
12. [ ] Remove chainrings (optional). See REMOVAL,
INSTALLATION, AND ALIGNMENT procedure (page
23-9) if removing or replacing chainrings.
Not enough stud to engage nut

CRANK-ARM CLEANING
13. [ ] Clean crank arms and chainrings (if any).
DETERMINE REPLACEMENT-
COTTER-PIN SUITABILITY
Exact replacement cotter pins are almost impossible
to find. Use the following guidelines to determine suit-
21.8 Example 2: The cotter pin in this picture does
ability of a replacement cotter pin. not have enough stud protruding. The taper can be filed
deeper to improve this condition.
21 – 5
Taper protrusion unacceptable
Add 10mm I.D. axle washers,

until taper is covered
21.9 Example 3: The cotter pin in this picture has

too much of the stud end protruding. Add washers to
improve this condition.
21.11 When the cotter pin in the left arm is “head-

up,” the pin in the right arm should be “head-down.”
17. [ ] [ ] Slide cotter pin into pin hole. (When
installing second arm, be sure pin heads
point opposite directions when viewed
simultaneously.)
18. [ ] Position right arm (if reinstalling original) to
restore measurement from step 4.
Crank arm
Cotter-pin head
21.10 Example 4: The arms are not 180° apart Park CR-2 shaft
because the cotter pins do not have the same taper
angle. Both pins should be replaced with identical
replacements to solve this problem.
Filing cotter pins to improve fit

A flat file can be used to file the taper deeper so that
a pin will insert further. Do not try to change the angle
of the taper, just its depth. A VAR 371 is a tool designed
to hold the cotter pin for filing. Although not required, it
makes an awkward job effortless. Park CR-2
(un-modified)
CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION
14. [ ] Install chainrings if removed. See ASSEMBLY
OF CHAINRINGS TO CRANK ARM procedure (page 21.12 Setup for using the CR-2 to press in the cotter
23-11). pin.
15. [ ] [ ] Clean cotter pin, pin hole, and spindle flat
19. [ ] [ ] Use CR-2 to press in pin fully. With han-
with acetone or alcohol.
dle extended fully to one end, minimum of
16. [ ] [ ] Slide crank arm onto spindle.
55 pounds of force is required at 4".
20. [ ] [ ] Grease stud threads.
21. [ ] [ ] Thread on retention nut and secure to
60in-lbs (20lbs@3").
21 – 6
CHECKING FIT [ ] Error is in same direction but greater. Inspect

bike for chainline-error symptoms.
OF REPLACEMENT CRANK ARM
NOTE: Skip to step 25 if arms installed are same
ones removed, not replacements. INSTALL PEDALS
25. [ ] Install pedal(s) if removed. See PEDAL
Checking chainring fit INSTALLATION procedure (page 24-4).
if replacement arm is a right arm
If using old chainrings with a new crank arm, check
the CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-5) to determine whether
the new arm is compatible with the chainrings before
installing the chainrings. Chainring compatibility is not just
a matter of whether the mounting holes in the chainrings
and the crank arm match. With some chainrings, spacing
between them is critical and not universal.
In the next step, measure the right chainring clearance
with the new arm installed to check if the chainring posi-
tion has changed. Be concerned with discovering whether
a clearance problem to the chain stays has been created or
solved and whether the chainrings have moved enough to
require re-adjusting the front derailleur.
22. Measure chainring-to-chain-stay clearance and
check one of following choices:
[ ] Clearance is ≥2mm but is more than .2mm
different than number in step 2. Front-
derailleur limit screws and cable will need
adjustment.
[ ] Clearance is <2mm, replacement arm is
unacceptable to use with existing spindle.
[ ] Clearance is different by ≤.2mm from num-
ber in step 2, front-derailleur adjustment is
not needed. Arm is a good fit.
In the next two steps, measure the chainline after
installing a new right crank arm to determine whether it
has been changed enough to create or solve a problem.
Consider not only whether there is a measurable error but
whether the error has changed enough to introduce or elimi-
nate chainline-error symptoms. See the CHAINLINE chapter for
information about how to measure chainline error (page
23. Measure chainline error, record here:
Chainrings out (+) or in (–) (circle one)?
Amount: __________
24. Compare step 23 to number and direction in
step 3 and choose one of following choices:
[ ] Error is equal to step 3; arm is acceptable
if no chainline-error symptoms were expe-
rienced with original arm.
[ ] Error is in same direction but less than step
3; arm is acceptable unless previous chainline
error was unacceptable and change is not
enough to eliminate symptoms. Bike should
be evaluated for chainline-error symptoms.
[ ] Error is in new direction. Bike should be
evaluated for chainline-error symptoms.
21 – 7
COTTERED-CRANK-ARM TROUBLESHOOTING (table 21-1)

Cause Solution
NOTE: Symptoms not unique to cotter-pin crank arms are found in the troubleshooting chart in the
previous chapter PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS (page 20-19).
SYMPTOM: Cotter pin becomes loose quickly after installation.
Was not installed with enough force. Use minimum of 55lbs force at 4" on Park CR-2.
Lubrication present on pin, pin hole, or spindle flat. Clean all mating surfaces with acetone or alcohol.
Under-sized pin has been used. Cotter-pin diameter must match pin-hole diameter
closely.
Pin hole in arm was enlarged by being ridden with Replace arm.
loose pin too long.
Pin is poor fit (too much stud protruding) and Replace pin or use washers with an I.D. larger than
retaining-nut washer stopped against shaft of pin pin shaft between arm and retaining-nut washer.
instead of arm surface.
Head swells when hammer is used for installation. Replace pin and use press tool for installation.
SYMPTOM: Stud folds over during pin-removal attempt.
Failure to use penetrating oil before removal. Break stud off and perform removal without stud.
Use of hammer for pin removal. Break stud off and perform removal without stud,
using modified Park CR-2.
SYMPTOM: Cotter pin is extremely difficult to remove, in some cases even though arm is loose on spindle.
Bike has been ridden while pin was loose, bending No tricks available. Use modified Park CR-2,
pin in arc around spindle. penetrating oil, and cheater bar on tool handle.
SYMPTOM: Taper has deep notch in its surface.
Bike has been ridden while pin was loose; pin has Replace pin and tighten adequately.
been bearing against edge of spindle flat.
SYMPTOM: Arms are not 180° apart.
Matching pins are not installed with heads facing Reverse direction of one pin.
opposite directions, when viewed simultaneously.
Non-matching pin has been installed. Remaining original pin should be replaced with
replacement pin that matches other side.
SYMPTOM: Retaining-nut threads or stud threads stripped out.
Retaining nut over-tightened. Replace nut, tighten nut to 60in-lbs (20lbs@3").
Retaining nut was used to install cotter pin. Replace nut. Retaining nut cannot be used for
installing pin.
SYMPTOM: Cotter-pin head is flush with arm surface and cannot be pressed in further to secure arm.
Pin worn out or wrong-size pin. Install better-fitting cotter pin.
SYMPTOM: Washer and retaining nut do not bear against crank arm when tightened fully.
Poor-fitting pin has been used. Replace pin or use washers with I.D. larger than
pin shaft between arm and retaining-nut washer.
SYMPTOM: Not enough stud protrudes to engage washer and retaining nut.
Poor-fitting cotter pin. Remove pin and file taper deeper or use different pin.
21 – 8
22 – ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKS
Adjustable cone (left-hand thread)
Pressed cup
Keyed lock washer
Locknut (left-hand thread)
Fixed cone (right-hand thread)
Chainring (or spider and ring)
One-piece crank arm

OVERHAUL AND REPLACEMENT 22 – 4
PREPARATIONS 22 – 4
DISASSEMBLY 22 – 4
CLEANING 22 – 4
INSPECTION 22 – 4
PARTS REPLACEMENT 22 – 4
ASSEMBLY 22 – 5
BEARING ADJUSTMENT 22 – 6
COMPLETION 22 – 6
BMX SPLIT-SPLINE CRANKS & CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS 22 – 7
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Crank arm: The arm to which the pedal attaches.
Fixed cone: A bearing cone that is fixed in position.
This chapter is about one-piece cranksets and BMX
The fixed cone is threaded onto the right end of the
cranksets. The “one-piece” name is derived from the fact
spindle portion of the crank-arm set.
that the crank arms and the bottom-bracket spindle are
Pressed cups: Bearing cups that are pressed into the
all integrated into one piece. Consequently, crank-arm
bottom-bracket shell.
removal and bottom-bracket-bearing service are all one
Lock washer: A keyed washer that goes between the
operation. Many BMX cranksets, but not all, are the one-
locknut and the adjustable cone so that one can be turned
piece variety. Most of the BMX cranksets that are not the
without affecting the position of the other.
one-piece variety fit the same unthreaded bottom-bracket-
Locknut: A nut that is threaded against the adjustable
shell type as do one-piece cranksets. BMX cranksets that
cone to secure its position.
fit the threaded bottom-bracket shell found on most other
One-piece crank(set): A crankset that has one con-
bike types still share many crank-arm-attachment charac-
tinuous piece of metal that forms both the left and right
teristics with the BMX cranksets that fit the unthreaded
crank arms and the bottom-bracket spindle.
shell associated with one-piece cranksets.
Spider: A structure that mounts to the crank arm
The one-piece cranksets are found on many types of
behind the fixed cone to which the chainring attaches. It
bikes with one common characteristic: low cost. Many
originally consisted of five arms, hence the name “spider.”
older department-store brands, including derailleur and
These days, the spider is often a disc.
non-derailleur types, have this crank style. Older Schwinns
of all types and virtually all single-speed, coaster-brake
bikes have one-piece cranksets.
One of the few virtues of this crank style is that it
uses a universal bottom-bracket shell. No matter what the
brand, bike type, or vintage, a new complete crankset can
always be installed. Adjustable cone (left-hand thread)
Pressed cup
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY
Adjustable cone: A bearing cone that has an adjustable
position. The adjustable cone is threaded onto the left end
of the spindle portion of the crank-arm set.
Arm set: The piece that includes both crank arms
and the bottom-bracket spindle.
Bearing retainer: A circular clip filled with ball bear- Keyed lock washer
ings. Also called simply a “retainer.”
Locknut (left-hand thread)
Bottom bracket: The bearing assembly about which the
crank arms rotate, installed in the bottom-bracket shell. Fixed cone (right-hand thread)
Bottom-bracket shell: The cylindrical shell at the
Chainring (or spider and ring)
bottom of the frame into which the crankset bearings
are installed. One-piece crank arm
Chainring: A disc or ring with teeth at the outer
perimeter that mounts to the spider or directly to the
crank arm behind the fixed cone. 22.1 Parts on a one-piece crankset.
22 – 1
PREREQUISITES Symptoms indicating need of arm-set

The only prerequisites for servicing one-piece cranks are replacement or repair
the ability to remove and install pedals and the rear wheel. Crank arms bend frequently on these cranks.
If they are bent from abusive jumping, either of the
INDICATIONS two following symptoms might be immediately apparent:
1) Crank arms are no longer 180° apart; 2) Chainrings
Maintenance cycles appear to oscillate as they rotate. If the crank-arm set is
Due to the soft metal that is used in all brands and bent in the spindle portion, upon further inspection it is
models of these cranks and the exposed nature of the likely to be found that the bearing adjustment becomes
bearings, adjustment and overhaul of these bearings is too tight at the point free play is eliminated or that the
required much more frequently than with adjustable-cup faces of the cones will appear to oscillate as the crank
bottom brackets. Its likely that anytime a bike with this turns (certain proof of a bent spindle portion). If further
type of equipment comes into the shop, the bearings will inspection shows that the cones and cups are not worn
be in need of some sort of service. It is unlikely that the out, then the tight-adjustment problem is caused by the
typical owner of a bike with this equipment is going to be spindle portion of the crank-arm set being bent. In all
willing to have a shop service the bearings as often as the cases the crank-arm set must be replaced.
bearings need it. Consequently, the shop is often forced When the bike falls over, a crank arm may bend in
to leave problematic one-piece-crank bearings alone or on one side. Oscillating will be felt in the ankle on that
is left with no choice but to make less-than-satisfactory side when the bike is ridden. It could also be a bent pedal
adjustments to worn-out and dirty equipment. shaft. A bent crank arm can sometimes be repaired. It is
repaired on the bike using the Park HSC-1.
Symptoms indicating bearings need Stripped pedal-mounting threads cannot be repaired
adjustment by using a thread bushing (as is the case with other cranks,
If play is felt at the ends of the crank arms, adjustment see page 24-5) due to the thin amount of material around
is needed. Since the bearings lack precision and the arms the hole. The arm set must be replaced.
cannot be removed from the spindle, over-tight adjust-
ments are harder to detect. With the chain removed from Symptoms indicating need of chainring
the chainring, a good shove should spin the crankset replacement
around several revolutions. If it stops quickly, the bear- Single chainrings rarely need to be replaced because,
ings should be adjusted. if bent, they can be bent back with great success. They
do not need to be very straight to work, since there is no
Symptoms indicating bearings need shifting or front derailleur.
overhaul Multiple chainrings usually need to be replaced
When play has been eliminated, if the crank does not when they wobble. Precision repair is difficult, but true
spin for several revolutions after a good shove with the chain chainrings are critical to derailleur performance.
off the rings, then the bearings are due for overhaul.
ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKSET TOOLS (table 22-1)

LOCKNUT, ADJUSTABLE-CONE, and FIXED-CONE WRENCHES
15" adjustable wrench Used to fit locknuts and cones with wrench fittings that do not match any
bicycle-specific tools; use also for high leverage periodically needed on Bicy-
cle Research CP-1
Park HCW-3 25mm open end for locknut and some adjustable cones
Park SPA-4 Fits slots in face of some adjustable cones
Hozan C205 Hook spanner fits some fixed cones
CUP and CARTRIDGE-BEARING PRESSES
Bicycle Research CP-1 Fits bottom-bracket pressed cups and BMX headset cups
Bicycle Research BMX-P Fits bottom-bracket cartridge-bearing units with 3/4", 20mm, or 22mm I.D.
Park HHP-1 Fits bottom-bracket pressed cups and BMX headset cups, has insufficient
leverage for many cup-pressing situations
22 – 2
TOOL CHOICES cup, so that it can fall out on its own once the cone is out
of the way. The #66 retainer in a wrong-size cup is too tight
The design or brand of bottom bracket determines the
a fit to fall out. In this case, the retainer must be mangled
tools needed. Table 22-1 (page 22-2) covers tools for one-
and pried out before the arm set can be removed.
piece bottom brackets only. This list covers all the tools for
the job. The preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred Two thread types
because of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility, The most common one-piece-crankset arms and
and economy. When more than one tool for one function cones are either threaded 24tpi or 28tpi. There are no
is in bold, it means that several tools are required for dif- simple guidelines about when a specific pitch might be
ferent configurations of parts. encountered. The simplest approach is to always replace
complete bearing sets and to select one that matches the
pitch of the arm set.
TIME AND DIFFICULTY
Adjustment of a one-piece-crank bearing is a 2–5 Difficult pressed-cup installation
minute job of little difficulty. There is officially only one dimension for the fit of the
Overhaul of the bearings, replacement of the arm set, pressed cups to the bottom-bracket shell, but sometimes
or replacement of the spider/chainring is a 30–35 minute it will seem as though the cups must be the wrong size
job of little difficulty. because they are so difficult to install. This is usually with
chrome frames and is due to thick layers of chrome. The
best solution is to grease the cups (not normally done), use
COMPLICATIONS a press tool made specifically for these cups (see table 22-1,
Left-hand threads page 22-2), and just use whatever force is necessary.
The locknut and adjustable cone on the left side of Loose pressed cups
the bike are left-hand threaded. This is the opposite of the Extremely loose cups cause mysterious knocking
thread direction on the left side of an adjustable-cup bottom sounds while riding the bike. Marginally loose cups will
bracket. A mechanic’s first few encounters with a one-piece creak. There are not different sizes available to improve
crank are confused by this need to turn all the left-side parts fit to the shell. Use Loctite RC680 to improve fit.
the opposite direction of normal.
Primitive adjustment
Stripped key on lock washer The adjustment of these bearings is primitive because
Many bottom brackets do not allow simultaneous use the precision of the parts is poor and because the control
of a tool on the locknut and adjustable cone. The design over the adjustable cone while securing the locknut is
relies on the lock washer to keep the adjustable cone from sometimes limited. Do not apply conventional standards
rotating when the locknut is being broken loose or secured. to what a “good” adjustment is. Of course, there should
When the washer fails during locknut removal, the cone be no free play in the finished adjustment. If the crank
and locknut rotate together and never break loose from spins a few times once play has been eliminated, consider
each other. Persistent high force is required to turn the the adjustment good.
locknut until it is all the way off the threads.
If the lock washer fails while securing the locknut, the
adjustable cone will turn and tighten up the bearings until ABOUT THE REST
the crank will not rotate. If this is detected early, the locknut
is usually not very tight against the cone and can easily be
OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter is divided into two sections,
threaded off so that the lock washer can be replaced. OVERHAUL AND REPLACEMENT and BMX SPLIT-SPLINE
Non-compatible retainers CRANKS & CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM BRACKETS.
There are two sizes of retainers used in this type of If you are just adjusting the bearings, go to the sec-
crank. They are called #64 and #66 and are not easily distin- tion of OVERHAUL AND REPLACEMENT titled BEARING
guished by sight. They fit inside cups that are slightly different ADJUSTMENT (page 22-6).
in size inside but are not marked differently in any way. The
#66 retainer snaps into a cup made for a #64 retainer.
The problem that results from using a #66 retainer in
the wrong cup will be experienced only while disassembling.
Since there is no good way to grasp a retainer and pull it out
of a cup, it is essential that the retainer be a loose fit in the
22 – 3
OVERHAUL AND 12. [ ] Inspect cones, cups, and lock washer to

determine wear and failure.
REPLACEMENT Bearing-set removal

NOTE: Skip step 13 if cups and cones were fine in
inspection (step 12).
PREPARATIONS 13. [ ] Use punch to drive both pressed cups out
1. [ ] Remove left pedal. of shell.
2. [ ] Only if replacing arm set, remove right pedal. NOTE: Skip step 14 if cups and cones were fine in
3. [ ] Move rear wheel to create chain slack and inspection (step 12) and chainring/spider will
drop chain off of chainring. not be replaced.
4. [ ] Inspect for arms not 180° apart.
5. Spin crank and look for (check all that apply):
[ ] bent chainring
[ ] oscillating chainrings/spider
[ ] oscillating cone faces
DISASSEMBLY
Arm-set removal
Vise
22.3 Removing the fixed cone.

14. [ ] Secure right arm in soft jaws in vise with
spindle portion of arm set facing up and turn
fixed cone counterclockwise to remove.
Chainring/spider removal
NOTE: Skip step 15 if chainring/spider will not be
replaced.
15. [ ] Noting direction it faces, lift chainring/spider
22.2 Turn locknut clockwise to remove. off arm set.
6. [ ] Turn locknut clockwise to break loose and
thread fully off.
7. [ ] Remove lock washer.
CLEANING
16. [ ] Clean all parts thoroughly, including inside of
8. [ ] Turn adjustable cone clockwise to
shell (except retainers, which should always
unthread fully.
be replaced).
9. [ ] Pull retainer out of left cup.
10. [ ] Shift crankset to right and drop retainer out
of right cup and onto spindle.
11. [ ] Snake crankset out right side of bottom-
PARTS REPLACEMENT
bracket shell. Retainer replacement
Bearing retainers are usually marked “64” or “66.” If
Inspection not marked, #64 retainers often have nine balls, and #66
As in all other bottom brackets, cones and cups wear
retainers usually have ten or more bearings. The bearing
by pitting. In addition, the cups may have cracks at the
count is a soft rule of thumb, not an absolute determin-
inner edge, indicating over-tight bearing adjustment (all the
ing factor. If unsure which size is needed for existing
way around) or jumping abuse (bottom half only).
cup, try pressing a #66 retainer into the cup. If it snaps
The lock washer has a key on the inner perimeter. This
in, the cup fits a #64. If it goes in effortlessly, the cup
key is critical to adjusting the bearings, so the lock washer
fits a #66 retainer.
should be replaced if the key is deformed in any way.
An oversize bottom-bracket variety, which may be
referred to simply as “oversize” or may go by the name
22 – 4
“Big Block,” has 1/4" bearings. The complete bottom- All multiple chainring sets have a uniform tooth thick-
bracket assembly and crank arm are dimensions may ness, which fits only a 1/2" × 3/32" derailleur chain. Single
be unique when this ball-bearing size is found. Not all chainrings could have a tooth thickness of approximately
retainers with 1/4" bearings are this oversize standard. 2.2mm, approximately 2.7mm, or substantially thicker than
Later, when checking threads on the spindle, additional either of these. The thinner teeth fit all chains, but the
information will confirm whether the crankset is nor- 2.7mm teeth fit 1/2" × 1/8" chains only. The teeth that
mal or oversized. are thicker than 2.7mm require a BMX-specific chain that
17. [ ] Determine if existing retainers are #64, #66, is either 1/2" × 3/16" or 1/2" × 1/4".
or have 1/4" ball bearings and find matching If the number of teeth change when installing a new
replacement. chainring, the chain length will need to be changed.
Bottom-bracket replacement 20. [ ] Determine chainring-bolt pattern and find
matching chainring or spider (select one-
It is not recommended to replace individual cups
piece chainring/spider) of suitable tooth
and cones due to limited parts availability and com-
number and tooth thickness.
patibility issues, as well as economy issues. Since the
fit to the bottom-bracket shell is universal, the critical
information for selecting a suitable replacement bearing ASSEMBLY
set is the arm-set thread pitch, which could be 24tpi or The pressed cups are kept in by friction. The mating
28tpi, and the thread diameter. Measure the pitch with surfaces should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone. If the
a thread-pitch gauge. If the pitch is 28tpi, this is all the cups are an extremely tight fit or loose, there are excep-
information needed. If the pitch is 24tpi, check the tions. Extremely difficult-to-install cups should be greased.
diameter. If the diameter is larger than 24mm, the arm Loose cups should be installed with Loctite RC680.
set and the bottom bracket are another variety, known 21. [ ] Clean cups and shell with alcohol/acetone
simply as “oversize,” or named “Big Block.” and use press to install cups fully in bottom-
18. [ ] Determine if existing arm-set thread pitch is bracket shell.
24tpi or 28tpi, measure diameter if 24tpi, Bicycle Research CP1
and find matching bottom bracket. NOTE: Pressed cups
Some brands now have an oversize crank Bottom-bracket shell
with 24tpi, which is >24mm thread diam-
eter. This may be described simply as “over-
size” or named “Big Block.”
Arm-set replacement
Arm sets vary in thread pitch and in arm length. Mea-
sure the pitch with a thread-pitch gauge. Arm length is
measured from the center of the spindle axis to the center
of the pedal-mounting hole. Arms come in 1/2" increments, 22.4 Setup for using the Bicycle Research CP-1 to
so precision of measurement is not critical. install the cups.
19. [ ] Determine if existing arm-set thread pitch is 22. [ ] Secure right arm in soft jaws of vise with
24tpi or 28tpi, measure diameter if 24tpi, spindle portion of arm set pointing up.
and find matching arm set of same or pre-
ferred arm length. NOTE: Some brands now Install chainring/spider
have an oversize crank with 24tpi, which 23. [ ] Place chainring/spider over left end of arm
is >24mm thread diameter. This may be set and rotate to engage arm-set peg into
described simply as “oversize” or named chainring/spider hole.
“Big Block.” 24. [ ] Grease fixed-cone threads.
25. [ ] Thread fixed cone on clockwise and secure
Chainring/spider replacement to 300–350in-lbs (30–35lbs@8").
Chainrings and spiders can have different mounting-
bolt patterns. Although almost all spiders and chainrings Arm-set installation
have five-bolt patterns, the hole-to-hole dimension of the 26. [ ] Put heavy coat of grease on fixed cone.
27. [ ] Place retainer (exposed-bearings-side up) on
chainring and mounting arms may vary (see page 23-6). If
fixed cone and cover heavily with grease
the number of bolt holes in the chainring and spider match
(see figure 22.5, page 22-6).
and hole-to-hole dimensions match, then two parts have
the same bolt pattern.
22 – 5
Bearing retainer 39. [ ] Break loose locknut.
5mm
Fixed cone
22.5 Place retainer on fixed cone and adjustable cone

with orientation seen here.
28. [ ] Put heavy coat of grease on adjustable cone.
29. [ ] Place retainer (exposed-bearings-side up) on
adjustable cone and cover heavily with grease.
30. [ ] Grease left-side threads on arm set.
31. [ ] Snake left end of arm set into right side of
22.7 Cone moved to 5mm counterclockwise of original
bottom-bracket shell until right-side retainer cup mark and new mark added to cup.
is inside of right cup.
40. [ ] Rotate cone counterclockwise to put cone
mark 5mm past cup mark and put new
matching mark on cup lip.
When securing the locknut, the cone mark may shift
counterclockwise from the new cup mark. If this happens
once, it should happen the same every time. If this is the
case, deliberately set the cone mark short of the new cup
mark so that when the locknut is secured, the cone mark
will shift to line up with the cup mark.
41. [ ] Holding adjustable cone stationary if pos-
sible, secure locknut counterclockwise to
approximately 300in-lbs (30lbs@10").
42. Jerk on ends of crank arms to feel for free play:
[ ] If no play felt, adjustment is complete.
22.6 Thread adjustable cone on counterclockwise. [ ] If play felt, repeat steps 39–42.
32. [ ] Thread adjustable-cone/retainer assembly
counterclockwise onto left threads of arm set.
33. [ ] Slide lock washer onto left end of arm set.
COMPLETION
43. [ ] Install pedal(s), if removed.
34. [ ] Thread locknut counterclockwise onto left-
44. [ ] Mount chain on chainring.
side threads.
45. [ ] Tension chain and secure rear wheel.
BEARING ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: If bearings were not just overhauled or
installed, turn locknut clockwise to break loose
and loosen adjustable cone before doing step 35.
35. [ ] Thread adjustable cone counterclockwise
toward bearings until contact is just felt,
then back off clockwise 90°.
36. [ ] Holding adjustable cone stationary if pos-
sible, secure locknut counterclockwise to
approximately 300in-lbs (30lbs@10").
37. Jerk on ends of crank arms to feel for free play:
[ ] If none felt, redo step 35 even looser.
[ ] If play felt, proceed to next step.
38. [ ] Use marker to put matching marks at edge
of cone and lip of cup (see figure 22.7).
22 – 6
BMX SPLIT-SPLINE causes difficult installation and removal. Grease will help
with both, but it is not unusual to need considerable force
CRANKS & CARTRIDGE- (with a plastic mallet) for both installation and removal.
4. [ ] Grease right-side splines, then insert right
BEARING BOTTOM end of spindle into back face of right arm.
NOTE: End of axle with shoulder (if any) is
BRACKETS right end, and end of axle with threads (if
any) is left end.
This section is generic in nature and applies to a vari- In step #5 there is a reference to a crank-arm retaining
ety of BMX split-spline cranksets and cartridge-bearing bolt. This is a bolt that threads into the end of the spindle.
bottom-bracket designs. The split-spline design consists It may serve to help retain the arm, and it also may be part
of a splined engagement between the crank arm and the of a preload mechanism for the bearings. There are cranks
spindle, with a split in the arm that is compressed by a with no retaining bolts, cranks with one bolt on each side,
bolt or bolts to secure the arm to the spindle. Designs and cranks with a bolt on one side only (either side).
vary widely and regularly, so maintain flexibility about 5. [ ] If crank-arm retaining bolt is used, treat
the sequence and specifics of this procedure. It is recom- threads with Loctite 242, then install into
mended to read it fully in advance of starting a procedure right end of spindle and torque to 120in-lbs.
to develop an understanding of the general concepts, 6. [ ] Secure chainring-fixing bolt to 120in-lbs.
then follow the procedure loosely. Utilize common sense If the right arm is permanently fixed to the spindle,
and generally sound mechanical principles, keeping in step #7 does not apply. Crank-arm binder bolts are the
mind the extreme loads these components experience bolts that close down the split in the splined hole. There
in what is considered normal use. may be one or two bolts for each arm.
In step #1, two types of cartridge-bearing designs 7. [ ] Grease threads of crank-arm binder bolt(s)
are mentioned. Cartridge bearings may be permanently and under bolt head, then install in right
installed into aluminum mounts or they may be remov- crank arm (snug but do not torque).
able. Removable cartridge bearings are likely to be coni- 8. [ ] Place cartridge bearings into bearing mounts
(if not pre-installed).
cal, rather than cylindrical, in shape.
1. [ ] Install bearing mounts or cartridge/mount Some cartridge-bearing bottom brackets use split
units with BMX cup press such as Bicycle compression rings (similar to the compression ring in a
Research CP-1 (use for mounts) or Bicycle threadless headset) to preload the bearings. When this is
Research BMX-P (for mounts with bearings the case, the cartridge bearings have a conical shape.
pre-installed). 9. [ ] Insert compression rings (if any) into car-
In step #2, a reference is made to the right arm. The tridge bearings.
right arm is characterized by the presence of a threaded There are simply too many variations of washer and
fitting a few inches out from the spindle end of the arm. If spacer configurations to be specific in step #10. The func-
one arm is permanently fixed to the spindle, it is the right tions of the washers and spacers in this location can be to
arm. The chainring-fixing bolt threads into the back face transfer preload to the bearing or to simply position the
of the right arm and causes the chainring to rotate with arm so it does not interfere with the frame. The spacers or
the arm. This bolt is subjected to heavy loads, so Loctite washers may also determine the depth of engagement of
is recommended to insure it does not loosen. the left end of the spindle into the arm. Although maxi-
2. [ ] Place chainring against back face of right mum engagement is preferred, if a crank-arm retaining
arm, then treat chainring-fixing bolt with bolt is used to preload the bearings, the end of the spindle
Loctite 242 and thread in (do not secure). must be slightly recessed in the outer face of the arm.
In step #3, a reference is made to a diameter adapter. 10. [ ] Install spacer washers (if any) onto left end
There are at least two I.D. dimensions found on BMX of spindle, then insert spindle through bot-
chainrings. The crank manufacturer may supply an adapter tom bracket from right side.
with the crank arms so either size will fit, or the crankset There are two different systems on these cranksets
may be limited to working with one size. and bottom brackets for preload of the bearings. Either
3. [ ] Place diameter adapter (if any) against there is a nut that threads onto the left end of the spindle
back face of chainring (lip goes inside hole before the left arm is installed, or there is a bolt that
in chainring). threads into the left end of the spindle after the arm
The cranksets covered in this procedure have a splined is installed. Step #11 is applicable only when there are
fit between the spindle and arms. Although the spline fit is threads on the outside of the left end of the spindle,
generally not a press fit, tolerances may be very tight, which immediately outward from the left-side bearings. If there
22 – 7
are such threads but they are of inadequate length for
the engagement of the nut, then the spacers on the right
end of the spindle or the location of the right arm on the
spindle needs to be changed. As was the case in step #10,
there are many possibilities of spacers used, instead of
an adjusting nut or in addition to an adjusting nut. The
parameters for what constitutes an appropriate number
of spacers are the same as is indicated in the explanation
that precedes step #10.
11.[ ] Install adjusting nut (if any) and/or spacers
onto left end of spindle.
12. [ ] Grease splines on left end of spindle, then
install left arm 180° from right arm.
13. [ ] If crank-arm retaining bolt is used, apply
Loctite 242 to threads, then install bolt.
14. [ ] Tighten adjusting nut (or crank-arm retaining
bolt) slowly tighter until play is eliminated
(jerking on end of right arm continuously to
check for play).
15. [ ] Grease threads and under head(s) of left-side
crank-arm binding bolt(s), then install bolt(s).
If the front chainring is not aligned well to the rear
cog, then the chain may run roughly, may make extra noise,
or may tend to come off of the chainring. If crank rotates
smoothly and quietly and there is no tendency for the
chain to come off as the crank rotates, then the align-
ment between the chainring and the rear cog need not be
improved. It is necessary to install the rear wheel to achieve
the proper chain tension to complete this inspection.
16. [ ] Check alignment of chainring to rear cog
and consider changing spacers between
chainring and bottom-bracket bearing to
improve alignment.
The key to security of the crank arms is the torque on
the crank-arm binding bolts. The value in step #17 is typi-
cal but is not necessarily correct for all cranksets. Ideally,
the specification should be obtained from the manufac-
turer, either by checking the instructions that came with
the product or by contacting the manufacturer directly.
If this information is not available, keep in mind that
several things affect the amount of torque a threaded fit-
ting can withstand. The thread diameter, pitch, and length
of engagement are all critical. In addition, the size of the
hex socket and the depth that the hex bit installs into the
socket are important. Rely on comparing these factors on
the bolts being secured to other similar attachments for
which a successful torque is known.
17. [ ] Secure crank-arm binding bolts on both sides
to 200in-lbs. NOTE: If either arm has double
crank-arm binding bolts, torquing each bolt
one time is insufficient! Cycle continuously
between bolts until both bolts won’t rotate
at moment torque wrench is indicating
torque setting is achieved!
22 – 8
23 – CHAINRINGS
Chainring sleeve nuts
Chainring-mounting arm
(spider arm)
Chainring bolts
23 – CHAINRINGS
COMPATIBILITY AND FIT 23 – 5
BOLT PATTERN 23 – 6
BOLT-HOLE SIZE 23 – 6
OFFSET BETWEEN CHAINRINGS 23 – 7
DERAILLEUR CAPACITY 23 – 8
NON-ROUND CHAINRINGS 23 – 8
SPECIAL SHIFT SYSTEMS 23 – 8
REMOVAL, INSTALLATION, AND ALIGNMENT 23 – 9
REMOVING CHAINRINGS 23 – 10
CLEANING AND INSPECTIONS 23 – 11
ASSEMBLY OF CHAINRINGS TO CRANK ARM 23 – 11
CHECKING OFFSET BETWEEN CHAINRINGS 23 – 12
INSTALLING CRANK ARM 23 – 13
CHECKING AND CORRECTING CHAINRING WOBBLE 23 – 13
FRONT-DERAILLEUR ADJUSTMENT 23 – 13
CHECK FOR CHAIN-LENGTH PROBLEMS AND DERAILLEUR CAPACITY PROBLEMS 23 – 14
REMOVABLE CHAINRING MOUNTS 23 – 14
TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN 23 – 14
FIT CONSIDERATIONS 23 – 14
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CHAINRING MOUNT 23 – 14
CHAINRING TROUBLESHOOTING 23 – 16
23 – CHAINRINGS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER may thread directly into the crank arm or directly into
another chainring but most likely thread into a sleeve nut.
This chapter is about removing and reinstalling
Usually the bolt has a broad flange for a head and is fit by
chainrings from the right crank arm. There are separate
a hex key or hex-bit socket. It may at times just be called
chapters about crank arms (20 – PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS
an “Allen bolt.”
and 21 – COTTERED CRANK ARMS), which should be referred
Chainring-bolt set: A set comprised of the chainring
to if the crank arms will be removed, replaced, or secured.
bolt, the sleeve nut, and any spacers that fit between the
Chainrings might be removed for cleaning or
bolt, nut, and chainrings.
replacement. It is possible to clean chainrings adequately Chainring-mounting arms: The arms (usually five),
without removing them from the crank arm and without that go from the end of the crank arm out to the chainrings.
removing the crank arm from the bike. Replacement of The chainrings are attached to the end of the chainring-
worn and damaged chainrings is possible on most cranks, mounting arms. Chainring-mounting arms are also called
but some cranks may have permanent chainrings or the “spider arms.” May be shortened to chainring mounts.
chainrings may be in an unusual configuration for which no
replacements are available. There are several critical issues
of compatibility between crank arms and chainrings, so Chainring sleeve nuts
before beginning to replace chainrings with non-identical

parts, become familiar with the section of this chapter on
chainring/crank-arm compatibility (page 23-5).
GENERAL INFORMATION Chainring-mounting arm

(spider arm)
TERMINOLOGY Chainring bolts

Bolt-circle diameter: A measurement used to
describe the fit of a chainring to a crank arm. It is the
diameter of the imaginary circle that goes through the cen-
ters of all the holes in the chainrings where the chainring
bolts are inserted (see figure 23.5, page 23-6).
Bolt pattern: The chainring-bolt pattern is the com-
bination of the number of bolts that hold on the chainring 23.1 Parts of the chainring set.
and the bolt-circle diameter, such as “The bolt pattern is
5-hole, 130mm.”
BioPace: A quasi-elliptical chainring designed by
Shimano. Essentially, the shape is that of a generously
rounded parallelogram, not a true ellipse. Other brands
of non-round chainrings are simple ovals (ellipses).
Chain stay: A frame tube that goes from the bot-
tom bracket to the rear dropout and comes close to the
chainrings and crank arms. It is mentioned here because
clearance between the chainrings and the chain stay is
often a concern.
Chainring: A toothed ring that is part of the crankset.
Double-chainring set Triple-chainring set
Other words used are “chainwheel” and “sprocket.”
Chainring bolt: There are several chainring bolts 23.2 Chainring sets.
that attach the chainring to the crank arm. These bolts
23 – 1
23 – CHAINRINGS
Double-chainring set: A set of two chainrings on a reduced-size chainrings, there could be other problems
crank arm (see figure 23.2, page 23-1). Usually found on with front-derailleur capacity.
road bikes, particularly for racing bikes.
Double crank: A crank with a double-chainring set.
Rear-derailleur replacement
When installing new chainrings of a different size,
Hole-to-hole dimension: A measurement used to
a new crankset, or a new right arm with different size
identify the bolt-circle diameter of the chainring. The
chainrings than the original ones, it is possible to exceed
hole-to-hole dimension is measured from the edge of one
the capacity of the rear derailleur to wrap up the slack
chainring-bolt hole to the edge of the adjacent chainring-
chain when in the smallest-size-chainring-and-smallest-
bolt hole (see figure 23.5, page 23-6).
rear-cog combination. It is the difference in number
Shift ramp: A configuration of a chainring that helps
of teeth between the smallest and largest ring that is
guide the chain smoothly from one chainring to the next.
important, not the absolute size of either chainring. See
Depending on the brand, model, and direction of shift
the REAR DERAILLEURS chapter (page 32-6) to determine
that is being enhanced, the shift ramp may be an actual
if the capacity matches the new chainring set.
ramp, a groove, a peg, a secondary gear tooth, or even an
indentation on the face of a chainring tooth.
Sleeve nut: The thin-walled cylinder into which the INDICATIONS
chainring bolt threads.
Triple-chainring set: A set of three chainrings Maintenance cycles
attached to a crank arm (see figure 23.2, page 23-1). Usu- Chainrings need periodic cleaning (whenever the
ally found on off-road bikes and on road touring bikes. chain is being cleaned), and the mounting bolts should
Triple crank: A crank with a triple-chainring set. be periodically checked for tightness.
Chainrings wear out, affecting front-derailleur shifting
and the tendency for the chain to remain attached to the
PREREQUISITES inner ring and jam against the chain stay. These problems
should be dealt with on a symptomatic basis, rather than
Crank-arm removal and installation as part of routine maintenance.
Before removing chainrings, the right crank arm may
Chainrings can be damaged by striking objects in the
need removal, particularly if the chainrings are a triple-ring
trail (off-road riding) and by catastrophic shifting errors
set. See the PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter (pages 20-5
(derailing and jamming the chain). The chainrings should
and 20-13) or the COTTERED CRANK ARMS chapter (page
be inspected for damage after any such occurrences.
21-4) for crank-arm removal.
Chain sizing Symptoms indicating shift-worn
If replacing the chainrings with ones of different size, chainrings
then it may be necessary to re-size or replace the chain. Shifting from a smaller ring to a larger ring slowly
See the CHAINS chapter (page 26-11). wears out the teeth on the larger chainring. When the teeth
become significantly worn, they lose their shifting perfor-
Front-derailleur adjustment mance. This can also be caused by derailleur problems
and replacement and chain wear. Check chain wear and check all derailleur
If replacing chainrings with ones of a different size adjustments. If the shifting cannot be restored to previous
(particularly the outer ring), it will be necessary to adjust good performance levels, in which the chain is not worn
the front derailleur. See the FRONT DERAILLEURS chapter out and the derailleur adjustment is good, then the teeth
(page 33-10). are worn out and the chainring should be replaced.
Front-derailleur replacement is only required in
two cases. First, if installing new chainrings, crankset,
or right crank arm with chainrings that have less than
an eight-tooth difference between the largest ring and
the next smaller one, but the original front derailleur was
designed to use triple-chainring sets with differences of
10 teeth or more, a new front derailleur may be needed. 23.3 These chainring teeth are worn from shifting. The
See the FRONT DERAILLEURS chapter (page 33-5) to tell dashed line represents the original tooth profile.
how front-derailleur capacity has been exceeded. Sec- With an experienced eye, visual inspection can
ond, if installing a “micro-drive” or other crankset with determine whether this wear is getting significant. Worn
teeth (from shifting) get shorter and thinner. If all teeth
23 – 2
23 – CHAINRINGS
had a uniform shape when new, this would be simple, but in a different position (steps #22 through #32 in the
they do not. Visual determination of wear is best done CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION procedure, page 20-10).
by comparing the used chainring to a fresh one of the If the chainring is bent, it will wobble side to side
same brand. In some cases, it is possible to compare teeth independently of the other ring(s). If the mounting arms
on one part of the ring to teeth on another part of the need alignment or the arm needs to be mounted in a dif-
ring. This can work because most riders have a tendency ferent position, all the rings will wobble in unison.
to shift in the same part of the pedaling stroke every Although minor chainring bends are repairable, it is
time, causing some teeth to wear out before others. The generally best to replace the damaged ring. When metal
limitation to this is that not all chainrings start out with bends, its molecular structure elongates (the space between
uniform teeth all the way around the ring. Specifically, the molecules increases). Bending it back does not elimi-
Shimano BioPace and SG/SGX/HyperDrive chainrings nate this elongation. What this means with a thin piece
do not have uniform teeth. of metal like a chainring is that the best that can be done
when trying to repair a bend is to change a single large
Symptoms indicating load-worn wobble into a series of smaller, less obvious wobbles.
chainrings There are tools available that are for the purpose of bend-
Chainrings can wear from the load of driving the ing chainrings, but they are little more than clamps with
chain. The symptom is sometimes called “chain suck.” levers attached that grip the chainring. What really gets the
The worn teeth develop a hook that causes the chain job done is the finesse of the person using the tool. For
to remain attached to the chainring at the six o’clock the shop mechanic, there is no substitute for practice.
position, where the chain is supposed to be released to
go back to the rear derailleur. When the chain is carried up Symptoms indicating bent chainring teeth
far enough, it jams into the chain stay. This damages the Chainring teeth can be bent from impact, usually
stay and chainrings and could lock up the crankset. This with a stone, curb, or log. The symptom that might be
symptom can be caused by a dirty chain or chainrings, as experienced will be a click or snap sound or feeling com-
well. Before concluding the chainrings are worn out, clean ing from the crank once per revolution when the chain
the chain and chainrings. is on the affected chainring (usually the outer one). To
The visual indicator that this condition exists is a find the bent tooth, close one eye, line the other eye up
pronounced hook to the leading edge of each chainring with the chainring so that only the teeth and neither face
tooth. Although it is easy to think of the force applied of the chainring can be seen, spin the crank slowly and
to the chain by the chainring as a pulling force, what look for a tooth that jumps out of line from the others.
actually happens is that the leading edge of each tooth Shimano SG/SGX/HyperDrive chainrings come from
pushes against the back side of each chain roller. This is the factory with teeth that deliberately stagger back and
why the wear is on the leading edge of each tooth. Most forth to facilitate shifting.
chainring teeth have symmetrical leading and trailing edges, If a bent tooth is found, simply grasp it with an
so detecting this wear visually is often just a matter of adjustable wrench or pliers and bend it back into line
comparing the two edges. with the other teeth.
Symptoms indicating
misaligned chainring-mounting arms
When the mounting arms of the chainrings are mis-
Rotation aligned, all the chainrings will wobble side to side in unison.
This could also be because a square-fit crank arm is not
mounted in the best of the four possible positions (steps
#22 through #32 in the CRANK-ARM INSTALLATION pro-
cedure, page 20-10). The only way to isolate the source of
23.4 This chainring is worn from load. The dashed line the problem is to test-mount the crank in all four positions
shows the original tooth profile. to see if it reduces or eliminates the wobble. Once this
has been done, if the wobble remains unacceptable, then
Symptoms indicating bent chainring(s) it should be clear that the problem is with the chainring-
Bent chainrings wobble side-to-side when spun, but mounting arms.
not all wobbling chainrings are bent. They can also wobble Wobbles of less than .5mm are insignificant. Wobbles
because the mounting arms are misaligned (see page 23-13) larger than this but less than 1mm are tolerable under
or because the square-fit crank arm needs to be mounted most conditions but not with certain narrow-cage front
23 – 3
23 – CHAINRINGS
derailleurs. Wobbles larger than these limits will always Similar symptoms can be caused by pedal-mounting
cause problems with the front derailleur. problems, loose pedal parts, pedal/cleat-interface prob-
There are steps for aligning chainring-mounting arms lems, crank-arm-mounting problems, and bottom-bracket
in the CHECKING AND CORRECTING CHAINRING WOBBLE problems (loose cups or retaining rings). If securing
procedure (see page 23-13). the chainring bolts does not eliminate the symptom,
be sure to check all these areas until the cause of the
Symptoms indicating loose problem is found.
chainring bolts
When chainring bolts are slightly loose, there may be a
creaking or snapping sound that comes from the crankset TOOL CHOICES
once per crank-revolution. With a triple crankset that has Table 23-1 (below) covers all the tools for the job. The
two rings held on by one bolt set and the third ring held preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred because
on by another bolt set, the noise will follow the bolt set of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility, and
involved. In other words, if the noise occurs when using economy. When more than one tool for one function is in
either of the rings held on by the first bolt set, but not bold, it means that several tools are required for different
when using the third ring held on by its own bolt set, then configurations of parts.
the noise is likely to be the bolts.
In all cases, diagnosis by analysis is unnecessarily com-
plicated. The simplest thing is just to check all the bolts
TIME AND DIFFICULTY
Chainring removal and reinstallation is a 5–10 minute
for security whenever this symptom occurs. job of little difficulty, as long as the replacement rings
Left unattended, a loose bolt can be catastrophic. With- are compatible and the same size. If different-size rings
out the support of all the bolts, a chainring might collapse require front-derailleur adjustment or replacement, the
under pedaling load. At least, the chainring will be destroyed. job has a moderately high difficulty rating and could take
It is quite likely the collapsed ring will interfere with the 25–45 minutes more. If the chain must be shortened or
rotation of the crank and the rider will end up pushing the replaced due to a change in chainring size, add 5–10 min-
bike home. It is even possible the collapsed ring could jam utes. If the rear derailleur must be replaced because of
into and damage the chain stay or front derailleur. capacity problems, this is also a moderately high-difficulty
job and another 25–45 minutes should be added.
CHAINRING TOOLS (table 23-1)
CHAINRING-BOLT TOOLS
Campagnolo 768 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts
Park CNW-1 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts
Shimano TL-FC20 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts but also recommended for use on Shimano self-extractor
rings in PRESS-FIT CRANK-ARM TOOLS table 20-1 (page 20-4)
Sugino 207 Fits rare 10mm sleeve nuts
Sugino 208 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts
VAR 352 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts; simultaneously stabilizes sleeve nut while built-in hex
key is used to tighten or loosen bolt
CHAINRING-MOUNT REMOVERS
Park BBT-8 Used to fit lockring that retains chainring mount on Shimano and other brands
of cranks; compatible with square-fit cranks with 8mm bolt and spline-fit cranks
with 15mm bolt; enables use of torque wrench with addition of Park TWB-368
headset crowfoot; BBT-8 is also a recommended bottom-bracket tool
Shimano TL-UN96 Used to fit lockring that retains chainring mount on Shimano and other brands
of cranks; compatible with spline-fit cranks with 15mm bolt but requires addi-
tion of TL-UN75 to be compatible with square-fit cranks with 8mm bolt
CHAINRING-ALIGNMENT TOOLS
Bicycle Research LC1 Narrow engagement more likely to crease chainring
VAR 940 Wide engagement prevents damage, use two at a time for control
23 – 4
23 – CHAINRINGS
COMPLICATIONS holes, diameter of holes, diameter of the bolt circle, and

whether the arm will create the proper spacing between
Stripped hex-socket fittings the chainrings. Chainrings can meet the first three factors
Over-tightened chainring bolts often have rounded (but not the fourth) and still be mounted on the crank
hex-socket fittings. The only solutions are to try to turn the arm. If the fourth is not dealt with, the results could be
sleeve nut instead and, if that fails, to drill out the bolt. mysterious shifting problems and chain noise.
Spinning sleeve nuts
The sleeve nut may have a tendency to spin as the bolt ABOUT THE REST
is loosened or tightened. A sleeve-nut spanner or the VAR
352 (preferred) should solve the problem. OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter has four sections. The first
Missing spacers is COMPATIBILITY AND FIT, the second is CHAINRING
If a chainring bolt falls out, a spacer between the REMOVAL, INSTALLATION, AND ALIGNMENT, the third
chainrings is often missing. If an identical spacer cannot is REMOVABLE CHAINRING MOUNTS, and the final is
be found, then the whole set should be replaced with the CHAINRING TROUBLESHOOTING.
closest-thickness spacers available. COMPATIBILITY AND FIT is about the fit of the
Unique spacers chainrings to the crank-arm-bolt pattern, the offset
Some chainrings require spacers of unique thickness (or spacing) between the chainrings, chainring size and
or configuration. Keep track of spacers at all times! derailleur capacities, and chainring compatibility with
special shifting systems.
Bolt types CHAINRING REMOVAL, INSTALLATION, AND ALIGN-
There are several types of chainring bolts and several MENT is about removing the chainrings, installing them,
lengths of bolts of the same type. Sometimes a triple and aligning them if necessary. It includes sections on
crankset will have two sets of bolts that are the same checking compatibility if changing the size of the rings
type but different lengths. The shorter bolts are used to or brand. If these checks indicate a need to adjust and/or
hold on a pair of chainrings, and the longer bolts are used replace the front or rear derailleur, then it refers to the
to hold the single chainring. This runs contrary to what appropriate chapters to perform those procedures (page
logic would dictate. If the longer bolts are put where the numbers are provided at these points). When checking
shorter bolts should be, they will usually extend through chainring alignment, there will be a reference to checking
the back of the sleeve nut and interfere with the chain on the four mounting positions for the right crank arm. If
the inner chainring. this needs to be done, the appropriate page number is
Some triple-chainring-set inner bolts are a 6mm provided at that point.
diameter thread. Some of these have a 1mm pitch and REMOVABLE CHAINRING MOUNTS is about cranksets
some have a .75mm pitch. Failure to note this difference that have removable mounting arms that secure to the right
could destroy the crank arm by stripping the threads in crank arm by means of a spline fit and threaded lockring.
the chainring-mounting arms.
Reversing chainrings
Chainrings need to face a specific way in most cases.
There are no universal rules of thumb about how to tell COMPATIBILITY AND FIT
which way they should face. It’s best to mark them or Compatibility and fit of chainrings is a complex and
make clear notes before removal to prevent reversing often-ignored subject. As shifting systems become more
them on installation. sophisticated, the issue becomes more important. The
issues of compatibility and fit can be broken down into
Rotational position six general areas:
Many chainrings are meant to be used at one specific Bolt pattern
rotational position. With others, it does not matter. Always Bolt-hole size
assume that rotational position matters unless it is known Offset (spacing) between chainrings
for certain that it does not. Derailleur capacity
Chainring-to-arm compatibility Non-round chainrings
As many as four different things influence whether a Special shift systems
chainring will fit a crank arm. These are: number of bolt
23 – 5
23 – CHAINRINGS
BOLT PATTERN FIVE-HOLE-CHAINRING

BOLT-CIRCLE DIAMETERS (table 23-2)
Chainrings and crank arms must have the same bolt
pattern for the chainrings to fit. The bolt pattern is a func- Approximate Bolt-Circle Typical uses or common brands
tion of how many bolts are used (usually four or five) and Hole-To-Hole Diameter
the diameter of the circle that goes through the center of Dimension
all the bolts (see figure 23.5). 32.9mm 56mm SunTour Micro (inner ring)
Using table 23-2 for five-hole chainrings 34.1mm 58mm Shimano SG/SGX/HyperDrive-C
(inner two rings)
When the chainring is secured by an odd number
43.6mm 74mm Smallest chainring of most
of bolts, the bolt-circle diameter cannot be measured triple cranksets
directly. Instead, the recommended method is to measure 55.3mm 94mm SunTour Microdrive (outer
the distance from one bolt to the next and then look up two) and Shimano SG/SGX/
the corresponding bolt-circle diameter in table 23-2. This HyperDrive-C (outer ring)
measurement is called the “hole-to-hole” dimension. If 55.9mm 95mm Shimano SG/SGX/HyperDrive-
the measurement is not on the table, then use the formula C (if stamped steel, less
method (following table 23-2) to calculate the approximate expensive models only)
bolt-circle diameter. 64.7mm 110mm Outer pair of chainrings on
many triple cranksets
76.5mm 130mm Double-ring cranks: Shimano,
Sachs, Sugino, Mavic,
SunTour
79.5mm 135mm Current Campagnolo (1985 to
present)
84.8mm 144mm Double-ring cranks: Older
Campagnolo, Mavic, SR,
Sugino
Bolt-circle diameter Formula method for five-hole-chainrings

bolt-circle diameter
If the measurement of the hole-to-hole dimension
Hole-to-hole was in millimeters, multiply the measurement by 1.699
dimension
and round the answer to the nearest whole millimeter
(bolt-circle diameters are always in whole millimeters). For
example, if the measurement was 71.6mm, calculate 71.6
× 1.699 = 121.65, then round 121.65 to 122mm.
Four-hole chainrings
23.5 Note that bolt-circle diameter cannot be measured No tables or formulas are needed for chainrings with
on an actual chainring unless the number of holes is even.
four holes, since the measurement can easily be taken
Note that the hole-to-hole dimension is measured from
the edge of one hole to the same edge of the next hole, directly from the chainring. Measure from one chainring
although it is technically a center-to-center dimension. hole to the directly opposite hole, but use the measure-
ment technique shown in figure 23.5 for measuring the
Even if using a caliper, it can be difficult to measure
hole-to-hole dimension.
from the center of one hole (or bolt) to the center of
the adjacent hole (or bolt) because the center is some-
where in the middle of a big hole. The same thing can BOLT-HOLE SIZE
be achieved by measuring from the edge of one hole (or Perhaps the simplest issue of fit is bolt-hole size.
bolt) to the opposite edge of the adjacent hole (or bolt). The mounting arms on the crank arm have holes for the
If the chainring is not mounted, measure from the edge bolts to go through. The chainrings do also. The holes in
of one bolt hole to the opposite edge of the adjacent bolt both must be the same diameter. It is extremely rare that
hole (see figure 23.5). Whichever measurement method chainrings would share a common bolt-circle diameter
is used, look it up in the Hole-To-Hole column and then and not share a common hole diameter. The only likely
read across to the adjacent Bolt-Circle Diameter column occurrence is on some older 10-speeds that had Sakae
on table 23-2. cranks with a 118mm bolt-circle diameter.
23 – 6
23 – CHAINRINGS
OFFSET BETWEEN exception of the inner chainring of a 9-speed-class triple

crankset, which is usually interchangeable with the inner
CHAINRINGS ring of an 8-speed-class triple crankset.
Offset between chainrings can be an issue for three
reasons. The first reason is that as chains are made nar-
Measuring offset
Measuring offset can be used to check the inter-
rower for nine-speed and ten-speed cassettes, the chainring
changeability between different brands of chainrings of
spacing (offset) needs to be reduced correspondingly to
a common speed class and the crank arm. Mixing speed
be compatible with the chain. The second reason is that
classes of chainrings in a set or with a crank arm of a
some manufacturers have special or unique offset to suit
different speed class is usually unacceptable.
special design considerations. The third reason is that not
The simplest approach to taking this measurement is
all chainrings are the same thickness, so manufacturers use
to use a stack of feeler gauges to measure the gap between
a different spacer to achieve the correct positioning.
chainrings, record it, and restore that dimension if install-
Cassette-gear count (6, 7, 8, 9, and 10) ing non-identical chainrings. The problem develops when
For cassettes and freewheels that have six, seven, or the new chainrings require different spacers. These are not
eight gears, the chains originally made to fit do not vary broadly available in a full range of thickness.
enough in width to require different offsets between the Another problem develops when the chainring is not
chainrings. When the cassette has nine gears, the chain a simple flat piece of metal (see figure 23.6a). Anytime the
that is required works best on the front chainrings if the chainring has bulges or offsets, the issue is the distance
offset between the chainrings in reduced. The same is from the teeth of one chainring to the teeth of another,
true to yet another degree for drivetrains with ten-gear and there is no simple way to measure the offset. The
cassettes. Consequently, there are chainrings that are 6-, best way is to put the crankset on a flat surface, face up;
7-, and 8-speed compatible, chainrings that are 9-speed measure the distance from the teeth on one ring to the
compatible, and chainrings that are 10-speed compat- surface; measure the distance from the teeth on another
ible. The 6-, 7-, 8-speed-compatible chainrings are ring to the surface; then subtract the difference to deter-
often just called 8-speed, but this designation does not mine the ring-to-ring offset (see figure 23.6b).
mean they are different from the chainrings made for This side toward chainring mounting arms
6- and 7-speed configurations. Some confusion results
Offset mounting tabs
from the way that cranksets and chainrings are named.
For example, 9-speed chainrings are found on double
and triple cranksets, but there are not nine chainrings
or a number of gear combinations totaling nine. The On this chainring, there are no tabs but the
terminology might be less confusing if a “9-speed” upper face is further from the center of the
chainring and chainring sets were called 9-speed class teeth than the lower face.
chainrings. For the remainder of this section, chainrings 23.6a These cross-section views of chainrings show
that chainring teeth may be further from one face of the
are referred to by their speed class, whether they are the chainring than the other. The amount of this offset var-
8-speed, 9-speed, or 10-speed configurations. ies with between brands and models.
If the offsets for 9- and 10-speed-class chainrings
were strictly a function of the chainring dimensions, Caliper
then any chainrings with the correct bolt pattern could
be installed on any crankset. However, the offset for
both 9-speed-class and 10-speed-class configurations
is the result of the combination of changes made to
the chainring and chainring-mounting arm dimensions.
Consequently, crank arms are “speed-class specific” and
cannot be converted from one class to the other. The
exception is if the crank arm has a removable chainring Depth gauge
mount, in which case the chainring mount can be changed
to match the speed class of the new chainrings. Mixing
chainrings of different speed classes together or installing
a matched set on a crank arm of a different speed class 23.6b Measure first one chainring, then another, in
almost always results in compatibility problems, with the this fashion. Subtracting the smaller number from the
larger calculates the chainring offset.
23 – 7
23 – CHAINRINGS
Common offset problems the chainrings will be as little as four to six teeth. If the
There are three relatively common chainring offset derailleur is not compatible with half-step, the symptom
problems for which to be on the alert. will be that the bottom edge of the inner plate of the
The first problem is that chainrings and crank arms front-derailleur cage will rub against the middle chainring
are made with different speed classifications (8-speed, when the derailleur is in a position to put the chain on
9-speed, and 10-speed). This is detailed earlier in the the outer chainring.
Cassette-gear count section (page 23-7)
The second can present itself if the ring being
replaced is approximately 2mm thick and flat and has a
NON-ROUND CHAINRINGS
Although they are out of favor now, for a number of
thin washer (1.5mm) between it and the mounting arm. years in the late 1980s and early ’90s, non-round chainrings
Do not use the 1.5mm washer if the replacement ring such as Shimano BioPace were popular. Mechanically, there
is a more-normal 3.5mm thick. If switching from the is little concern with compatibility when mixing round
thick ring to the thinner, then a washer will need to be and non-round rings on one crank. However, there are
added. (Some thin rings have a 1.5mm offset just out concerns with biomechanics. The muscular coordination
from the mounting hole, in which case they do not need required to pedal each type of chainring is different and
the thin washer.) in each case it is a learned skill. When mixing types, the
The third problem is specific to triple cranks when rider will be physically unable to take advantage of either
installing chainrings that have shift ramps. Chainrings with (according to Shimano), so it is not recommended. If the
shift ramps require special offset that is built into the crank bike has non-round chainrings and the customer is con-
arms. Although the bolt-circle diameter of this type of sidering replacing some of them with round chainrings,
chainring is the same as many cranks that are not made for replacing the whole set is recommended.
use with chainrings that have shift ramps, these chainrings
can only be used with cranks designed for chainrings with
shift ramps. This problem is usually encountered when SPECIAL SHIFT SYSTEMS
replacing chainrings on cranksets made prior to the early Front indexed-shifting systems rely on compatible
1990s. To further compound the problem, the derailleur components to function correctly. The shift lever, cable
and shift lever are designed to work specifically with the housing, inner wire, front derailleur, chainring type, and
chainring type. Consequently, replacing the chainrings may chainring offset must all be correct for the indexing to work
require replacing the entire crankset, and the derailleur to its full potential. If the bike has front indexed shift-
controls and front derailleur as well. Normal offset for ing and the rider is considering replacing the chainrings,
these chainrings is approximately 6.4mm from the outer sticking with exact replacements (except, perhaps, number
to the middle chainring and 7.2mm from the middle to of teeth) is strongly recommended. If installing a front
the inner chainring. indexed-shifting system, it should include the correct crank
arm and chainrings.
Chainrings with shift ramps have one other factor to
DERAILLEUR CAPACITY consider: The chainrings are designed to work as matched
Front derailleurs have both a minimum and maximum sets. For example, if a bike has shift-ramp-style chainrings
capacity. If changing the size of the chainrings, consider of 26, 36, and 46 teeth, and the rider would like to replace
whether there will be a problem with capacity. the 46-tooth chainring with a 48-tooth chainring, it will
Maximum front-derailleur capacity is a rating of not be compatible! The reason for this is that shift-ramp
the largest difference between the smallest and largest chainrings have special teeth at specific locations for releas-
chainrings that the derailleur can handle. If it is exceeded, ing and picking up the chain. The release teeth and the
the chain will drag on the tail end of the front-derailleur pickup teeth have to be the correct distance apart. When
cage when the chain is in the small-front/small-rear com- the manufacturer makes a 48-tooth chainring, the pickup
bination. This symptom is only significant if it shows up teeth have been designed to be the correct distance from
when there is tension on the chain. If a slack chain dangles the release teeth on a 38-tooth chainring, not on a 36-tooth
and rubs, it is not a serious problem. chainring. Manufacturers make chainrings available indi-
Minimum front-derailleur capacity is a rating of the vidually so that worn ones can be replaced with identical
smallest difference between the largest and next-to-largest ones, not for customizing gear combinations.
chainrings. It is generally only relevant on triple cranks
and then only if the gearing is a very unusual design called
half-step. With half-step gearing, the difference between
23 – 8
23 – CHAINRINGS
REMOVAL, INSTALLATION, 4. [ ] Use stack of feeler gauges to measure clear-

ance between innermost chainring and chain
AND ALIGNMENT stay (measure with calipers to seat tube if

bike has raised chain stays). Record mea-
surement here: __________mm
PREPARATION 5. [ ] Remove pedal (optional). See PEDAL REMOVAL,

AND PRE-REMOVAL (page 24-3).
6. [ ] Remove crank arm. See SQUARE-FIT CRANK
INSPECTIONS ARMS procedure steps 4–10 (page 20-6) or
In step #1, inspect the chainrings for side-to-side see SPLINE-FIT CRANK ARMS procedure steps
wobble. Too much wobble interferes with making a proper 4–10 (page 20-14).
front-derailleur adjustment. If the chainrings wobble inde- In step #7, mark the chainrings so that when they are
pendently of each other, it indicates bent chainrings. If reinstalled, it will be easy to install them facing and rotated
they wobble in unison, it means that the mounting arms the same way. It is always mandatory that they face the
need alignment or that the right arm should be tried in all same way. An “×” mark is suggested because it cannot be
four possible mounting positions (square-fit cranks only) confused with a scratch.
to find the one that creates the least chainring wobble. In the case of non-round chainrings, outer chainrings
With square-fit cranks, the spindle-to-crank-arm mat- with an over-shift peg, or chainrings that have special teeth
ing is basically a square shaft that fits in a square hole. This at certain points to facilitate shifting, it is mandatory to
means that there are four possible ways that the crank arm maintain the rotational alignment. (An over-shift peg is a
can be mounted. In some of these ways there will be more protrusion built into the outer face of the outer chainring
chainring wobble and in other ways less. If starting with that is located behind the crank arm, which prevents an over-
little or no wobble, then it would be nice to not have to shifted chain from dropping down between the chainring
go through a trial-and-error process to find the best of and the crank arm.) If the chainrings have none of these
four positions. This is not a problem if not removing the features, it may prolong chainring life to deliberately rotate
left arm, because with it already installed there is only one the chainrings to a new position when reinstalling them.
possible position for the right arm. If removing both arms 7. [ ] If reinstalling any or all chainrings, put an
and starting off with acceptable chainring wobble, mark “×” mark with scribe or indelible marker on
back face of each ring, in line with crank arm.
the spindle (paint-pen, piece of tape, scratch mark) so that
Steps #8 through #13 are a method to measure and
the trial-and-error process of finding the best mounting
calculate the offset between the chainrings. By using the
position for the right arm can be avoided.
1. [ ] Rotate crank and check whether chainrings same procedure for reinstalling the old chainrings (or
wobble side to side ≥.5mm. identical replacements), it is possible to check that all
Yes? No? (circle one) the spacers are in correctly. By using the same procedure
2. If yes to step 1, do they wobble in unison or after installing non-identical chainrings, it is possible to
separately? check whether the offset has been altered in a way that
[ ] Unison: Arm should be checked for best will cause problems with shifting.
of four mounting positions and/or mounting Caliper
arms need alignment.
[ ] Separately: Wobbling chainring(s) should
be replaced.
3. [ ] If left arm will also be removed and if outer
ring or all rings are rotating with <.5mm
wobble, mark spindle so that arm can be
reinstalled in same position.
In step #4, check the distance between the chainrings
and the frame. Later, when everything is back together, Depth gauge
there will be an opportunity to check if this distance 23.6c Measure first one chainring, then another, in
remained the same. This is important because it tells this fashion. Subtracting the smaller number from the
whether the front derailleur might need to be re-adjusted. larger calculates the chainring offset.
A change here is only likely if the arm was on too tight 8. [ ] Place crank assembly face up on flat surface
or too loose, if changing the brand of chainrings, or if and stabilize the crank so that chainrings are
changing the position of some chainring spacers. parallel to surface.
23 – 9
23 – CHAINRINGS
9. [ ] Using depth gauge of caliper, measure dis- Step #22 is only for cranks with a triple-chainring
tance from front face of inner-ring teeth to set. Now that the inner chainring is retained by one bolt,
surface and record here: ________mm it is time to remove it and carefully note the sequence of
10. [ ] Using depth gauge of caliper, measure dis- bolts, spacers, and ring in step #22. An example step #22
tance from front face of teeth on second ring
is included here to make what needs to be filled in the
to surface and record here: _________mm
blanks clear. The notations that you would be adding to
11. [ ]Subtract measurement in step 9 from mea-
surement in step 10 to determine offset the worksheet if your crank were identical to figure 23.7
from inner chainring to next chainring and are written in script.
record calculation here: _________mm EXAMPLE (see figure 23.7):
12. [ ] Triple chainring only: Use depth gauge of 22. [ ] 12mm bolt , 26 tooth ring ,
caliper to measure from front face of outer-
4mm spacer , .5mm spacer
ring teeth to surface and record here:
_________mm
13. [ ] Triple chainring only: Subtract measurement 12mm bolt
in step 10 from measurement in step 12 to
26-tooth chainring
determine offset from middle chainring to
outer chainring and record calculation here:
_________mm 4mm spacer
.5mm spacer
REMOVING CHAINRINGS Chainring-mounting arm
When disassembling the chainring set, it is very 23.7 Possible sequence for inner chainring of a triple.
important to keep track of the sequence of parts, differ- 22. [ ] Triple chainring only: Remove remaining bolt
ences between spacers, and differences between similar, that retains inner ring and note sequence of
but not identical, bolt sets. The following steps suggest parts, as removed, here:
loosening and removing bolt sets so that each chainring ____________________ , __________________ ,
remains held on by only one bolt. Then, while removing ____________________ , ___________________
the last bolt from each chainring, pay close attention to Step #23 notes the sequence of parts as the outer two
the sequence of parts and record the sequence. chainrings (double- or triple-chainring set) are removed.
14. [ ] Triple chainring only: Loosen but do not An example step #23 is written as the parts are removed
remove 5 bolts retaining innermost chainring. from the outside to the inside. There are some parts that
15. [ ] Triple chainring only: Remove 4 of 5 bolts are outward of the chainring-mounting arms, and there
retaining innermost chainring and remove 4 are some parts that are inward of the chainring-mounting
of 5 spacers/spacer sets (if any).
arms. In the example below, the notes that you would add
In the next step, measure the length of the bolt that to the worksheet if your crank were identical to figure 23.8
comes out. On many triple-chainring sets, there are two bolt
are written in script.
sets that are similar in every way except length. It is critical
that they not get mixed up, and there have been countless EXAMPLE (see figure 23.8, page 23-11):
23. [ ] Remove remaining bolt that retains outer
times a mechanic—relying on logic or intuition, rather than
two rings and note sequence of parts as
measurement—has gotten it exactly backward. removed here:
16. [ ] Triple chainring only: Measure and record
length of one removed bolt here: _______mm
10mm bolt , 46 tooth ring ,
17. [ ] Triple chainring only: Measure and record , mounting arms ,
thickness of spacers/spacer set here: 1.5mm spacer , 36 tooth ring ,
_______mm sleeve nut ,
18. [ ] Loosen but do not remove 5 bolts of remain-
ing bolt set that retains outer ring(s).
19. [ ] Remove 4 of 5 bolts retaining outer ring(s) and
remove 4 of 5 spacers/spacer sets (if any).
20. [ ] Measure length of one of bolts just removed
and record measurement here: _________mm
21. [ ] Measure and record thickness of spacers/
spacer set just removed here: _________mm
23 – 10
23 – CHAINRINGS
10mm bolt
ASSEMBLY OF CHAINRINGS
46-tooth chainring TO CRANK ARM
In steps #32 and #33, new marks are put on the
chainrings at the same location but on the opposite face
from, the “×” marks. Use an “O” for these new marks to
Chainring-mounting arm
stand for “outer face.” These marks are needed because it
1.5mm spacer
is the outer face that will be seen when installing the outer
36-tooth chainring
chainrings of a triple or both chainrings of a double.
Sleeve nut Obviously, if installing replacement chainrings, there
will not be any “×” mark of which to place the “O” mark
23.8 Possible sequence for outer two chainrings. opposite. If the chainrings have special rotational-position
23. [ ] Doubles and triples, remove remain- requirements, the manufacturer has probably marked
ing bolt that retains outer two rings and them in some way. Sometimes there will be a triangular
note sequence of parts as removed here: engraving or stamp mark that is supposed to be in line
___________________ , ___________________, with the crank arm. Other times there will be a small tab
___________________ , mounting arms ,
at the inner perimeter of the ring that serves the same
___________________ , ___________________ ,
___________________ , ___________________ function. Sometimes, both these manufacturer’s marks
will be found on one chainring, in which case both will
always be in the same location.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION Determining which way a chainring should face is
For description and pictures of the visual nature of another matter. If there is a triangular mark, there is no
different types of chainring wear, see under the heading consistency as to whether it faces in or out. There may be
INDICATIONS (page 23-2). no marks on the face of the chainring other than brand,
24. [ ] Clean all chainrings thoroughly (if being model, and tooth number, and these can face either way.
reused), particularly faces and edges of teeth. The best clue is if there are recesses in a chainring face at
25. [ ] Inspect outer ring for visible evidence of each bolt hole. These recesses are for the bolt flange or the
shift wear.
sleeve-nut flange. If they are there, they should face out on
26. [ ] Inspect middle ring, if any, for visible evi-
the outer chainring and in on any inner chainring(s). Some
dence of shift and load wear.
27. [ ] Inspect innermost ring for visible evidence of thin inner rings (doubles) and middle rings (triples) have
load wear. an offset to the mounting-tab portion of the ring where
28. [ ] Inspect all rings for non-round design or the bolt hole is (see figure 23.9). If this is the case, the ring
special teeth that indicate rotational align- should face in the direction that positions the chainring
ment of chainring must be maintained teeth the furthest away from the surface the ring mounts
when reinstalling. against. When there are not offsets or recesses around bolt
29. [ ] Inspect outer ring for presence of over-shift holes, there is no choice but to guess. The best guess is
peg on outer face that indicates that rota- that any brand markings on an outer ring will face out and
tional alignment of chainring must be main-
that any tooth markings on inner rings will face in.
tained when reinstalling.
30. [ ] (Optional) Clean and inspect crank arm for This side toward chainring mounting arms
cracks and damage. See SQUARE-FIT CRANK- Offset mounting tabs
ARMS procedure steps 14–17 (page 20-9) or
see SPLINE-FIT CRANK-ARMS procedure steps
13–15 (page 20-15).
31. [ ] (Optional) Inspect spindle flats for marks On this chainring, there are no tabs but the
that indicate whether crank arm is worn out upper face is further from the center of the
or a bad fit to spindle. See PRESS-FIT CRANK teeth than the lower face.
ARM procedure step 11 (page 20-9). 23.9 These cross-section views of chainrings show
that chainring teeth may be further from one face of
the chainring than the other. Which way the chainring
faces is critical to the spacing between it and the adja-
cent chainrings.
23 – 11
23 – CHAINRINGS
32. [ ] If reinstalling inner ring of double or middle 40. [ ] With “O” mark facing up (or any over-shift
ring of triple, put an “O” mark on outer peg facing up), slip outer ring over end of
face of ring at same location as “×” on crank arm and rotate so “O” mark and/or
inner face. If installing new inner ring of over-shift peg is hidden behind crank arm and
double or middle ring of triple, put an “O” align chainring-bolt holes with sleeve nuts.
mark on outer face of same ring in line In step #41 and #46, oiling the chainring-bolt threads
with any manufacturer’s rotational orienta- is recommended. This applies to steel chainring bolts.
tion mark (if any). Treat aluminum-bolt threads with Loctite 242.
33. [ ] If reinstalling outer ring of double or triple, 41. [ ] Oil chainring-bolt threads and thread all
put an “O” mark on outer face of ring at chainring bolts of correct length (see step
same location as “×” on inner face. If 20) into sleeve nuts.
installing new outer ring of double or triple, In step #42 and #46, the recommended torque
put an “O” mark on outer face of same ring
minimum is 50in-lbs. This only applies to steel chainring
in line with any manufacturer’s rotational
orientation mark (if any). bolts. Bolts of lightweight material should be torqued to
34. [ ] Double- and triple-chainring sets, place a maximum of 35in-lbs (11lbs@3" or 9lbs@4").
sleeve nuts flange-side down on flat sur- 42. [ ] Using Var 352 (substitute Shimano TL-
face at spacing that approximates holes in FC20) to hold sleeve nuts from turning, snug
chainrings. all chainring bolts, then torque to minimum
In step #35, replace the spacers between the flange 50in-lbs (16lbs@3" or 12lbs@4").
43. [ ] Triple chainring only: Turn crank over on sur-
of the sleeve nut and the next-to-largest chainring, if
face so outer face is down.
there were any there originally. There is no reason for spacers 44. [ ] Triple chainring only: Put spacers (if any
to be in this position, so if they were here before it is originally) over holes on inner face of
likely that they were moved from between the chainring chainring-mounting arms (see step 22 to
and the chainring-mounting arms, rather than between check spacer position).
the chainring and the sleeve-nut flanges. Typical offset 45. [ ] Place inner ring so “×” mark (if reinstalling
between the outer chainrings is about 6.5mm. If there original ring) is facing up and in line with
was a spacer in this position and the existing offset crank arm. If installing new ring with manu-
between the rings was below this range, then it is likely facturer’s rotational orientation mark, install
the spacer was misplaced. so that mark is in line with crank arm. (Rely
35. [ ] Put spacers (if any originally) over sleeve on manufacturer’s information to determine
nuts (see step 23 to check spacer position). whether marked face should be up or down.)
46. [ ] Oil chainring-bolt threads and thread all
Lining the “O” mark up with the crank arm in steps
chainring bolts of correct length (see step
#36 and #40 ensures that the original rotational position 16) into crank arm. Torque to minimum
of the chainring is restored. This is often desirable but not 50in-lbs (16lbs@3" or 12lbs@4").
always. If the chainrings are round, do not have special
teeth at certain points only to facilitate shifting, and do
not have an over-shift peg, then it may be desirable to CHECKING OFFSET
deliberately rotate the chainring(s) two to three positions
either direction, so that the shift wear will continue on
BETWEEN CHAINRINGS
In steps #47 through #54, re-measure the offset
fresher parts of the chainring(s). between the chainrings in order to compare the final result
36. [ ] Place inner ring of double (or middle ring of
with the original conditions. Changes of .5mm or greater
triple) over sleeve nuts, with “O” mark up,
then align sleeve nuts so they all fit through indicate that original equipment has been re-assembled
holes in ring. wrong or that changes need to be made to make replace-
37. [ ] Put spacers, if any originally, over sleeve ment equipment work.
nuts and on top of chainring (see step 23 to 47. [ ] Place crank assembly face up on flat sur-
check spacer position). face and stabilize so that chainrings are
38. [ ] Place crank arm (outer-face up), with parallel to surface.
arm over “O” mark, on top of sleeve-nut/ 48. [ ] Using depth gauge of caliper, measure dis-
chainring assembly. tance from front face of inner-ring teeth to
39. [ ] Put spacers, if any originally, over sleeve surface and record here: _________mm
nuts and on top of chainring-mounting arms 49. [ ] Using depth gauge of caliper, measure dis-
(see step 23 to check spacer position). tance from front face of teeth on second
ring to surface and record here:_________mm
23 – 12
23 – CHAINRINGS
50. [ ]Subtract measurement in step 48 from mea- The following steps enable correction of this condition.
surement in step 49 to determine offset The chainring-mounting arms should remain true unless
from inner chainring to next chainring and they receive a direct blow from the side.
record calculation here: _________mm 57. [ ] Position front derailleur so that nose of
51. Compare calculation in step 50 to calculation outer cage plate is directly over outer
in step 11 and check one of two following chainring teeth.
choices. 58. [ ] Rotate crank backward rapidly and watch
[ ] There is <.5mm difference; there is no for wobbles, paying attention to whether
significant offset change. they seem to deviate out or in from straight
[ ] There is ≥.5mm difference; spacer is posi- portion of chainring.
tioned wrong or one of different thickness 59. [ ] After finding wobbles and determining
must be substituted. direction of error, slow down crank rotation
52. [ ] Triple chainring only: Use depth gauge of to identify point wobble begins and ends.
caliper to measure from front face of outer- 60. [ ] Find chainring-mounting arm closest to cen-
ring teeth to surface and record here: ter of wobble.
_________mm In step #61, it is recommended to use a specific
53. [ ] Triple chainring only: Subtract measurement
wrench for leverage. If using an adjustable wrench, it
in step 50 from measurement in step 52 to
must have smooth jaws at right angles to the handle. An
determine offset from middle chainring to
outer chainring and record calculation here: adjustable wrench of this type is superior to any tool
_________mm made specifically for chainring-mounting-arm alignment,
54. Compare calculation in step 53 to calculation because it can be adjusted to fit snugly on the chainring
in step 13 and check one of two following bolts rather than directly on the mounting arm (which
choices. inevitably scars the arm).
[ ] There is <.5mm difference; there is no There are times when no tool will fit to apply leverage.
significant offset change. Control is lost, but in this case there is no alternative but
[ ] There is ≥.5mm difference; spacer is posi- to use a plastic or rubber mallet directly on the chainring
tioned wrong or one of different thickness
bolt or end of mounting arm.
must be substituted.
61. [ ] Secure Diamond C79 adjustable wrench
to front and back end of chainring-bolt set
INSTALLING CRANK ARM on mounting arm at center of wobble, then
lever up to correct outward wobble or down
55. [ ] If chainrings had no significant wobble (see
to correct inward wobble.
step 1), position crank arm in same position
62. [ ] Remove wrench, spin crank again to check
marked in step 3, then install crank arm by
for under- or over-correction or other wob-
steps 33, 34, and 38–43 of SQUARE-FIT CRANK
bles that still need correction.
ARMS procedure (page 20-11) or by steps
17–21 of SPLINE-FIT CRANK ARMS procedure
(page 20-16).
56. [ ] Square-fit cranks only: If chainrings had
FRONT-DERAILLEUR
significant wobble (see step 10) or new ADJUSTMENT
chainrings are installed, then remove left If the number of teeth on the outer chainring has
arm also (if not removed already) and install changed by any amount, the front derailleur needs to be
crank arm by steps 19–43 of SQUARE-FIT moved up or down. This usually requires complete re-
CRANK ARMS procedure (page 20-10).
adjustment. If chainring offset has changed slightly (but
acceptably), the limit screws and perhaps the cable tension
CHECKING AND CORRECTING for the front derailleur will need to be reset. If the offset
between the chainrings is the same, but the whole set has
CHAINRING WOBBLE moved in or out from the frame, then it is necessary to
Excess chainring wobble can cause problems with the reset the limit screws and perhaps the cable tension for
front derailleur. At this point, bent chainrings and needing the front derailleur.
to mount the right crank arm in a better position should 63. [ ] Adjust front derailleur if outer chainring size
have been eliminated as causes of the problem. The only has changed, chainring offset has changed
thing that can be causing chainring wobble is misaligned (steps 51 and 54), or chainring clearance
chainring-mounting arms. The condition has probably has changed (compared to step 4).
existed from the point the crank arm was manufactured.
23 – 13
23 – CHAINRINGS
CHECK FOR CHAIN-LENGTH use different terms. At this time, no consistent term is
widely used, so this section uses the more generic and
PROBLEMS AND DERAILLEUR- descriptive term of “removable chainring mounts.”
CAPACITY PROBLEMS The method by which the chainring-mounting arm
engages the crank arm and is secured is a combination
Changing the size of the largest and/or the smallest
of a splined fit and a threaded lockring. The back face of
chainring affects the capacity requirements for both the
the crank arm has an externally splined protrusion. The
front and rear derailleurs. Operating derailleurs outside
hole in the middle of the chainring mount is internally
their capacities can damage them or cause poor shifting.
splined. When these splines are engaged, it permits rota-
Do not skip these steps if chainring sizes have changed.
tional force from the crank arm to be transferred to the
64. [ ] If replacement outer ring of different size than
original has been installed, position chain on chainring mount. To keep the chainring mount in place, a
outermost chainring and innermost rear cog lockring is threaded onto the protrusion on the crank arm.
to check chain length and correct as neces- The lockring is prevented from falling off, should it come
sary. (See CHAINS chapter, page 26-6.) loose, by a snap-ring in a groove in the protrusion.
65. [ ] If size of innermost or outermost chainring
has changed, adjust chain length. Then, put
chain in innermost-chainring/outermost-rear- FIT CONSIDERATIONS
cog combination to check that rear-derailleur Whether the spline patterns match between the
capacity has not been exceeded. (See REAR chainring mount and crank arm is not the only factor
DERAILLEURS chapter, page 32-6.) to consider. Different models of mounts position the
66. [ ] If size of innermost or outermost chainring chainrings further in or out relative to the crank arm,
has changed, adjust chain length. Then, put to the point that not all models of chainring mounts are
chain in outermost-chainring/innermost-rear- compatible with all models of crank arms.
cog combination to check that rear-derailleur
capacity has not been exceeded. (See REAR
DERAILLEURS chapter, page 32-6.)
67. [ ] If size of innermost or outermost chainring
COMPLICATIONS
There are many possible sources of mysterious creak-
has changed, reposition height of front
ing noises coming from the crankset and bottom-bracket
derailleur (if outermost chainring size
changed). Then, put chain in innermost-
area. The creation of a joint (between the chainring
chainring/outermost-rear-cog combination mount and crank arm) adds yet another source. When
to check that front-derailleur maximum diagnosing such a noise on bike with a crankset with a
capacity has not been exceeded. (See FRONT removable chainring mount, the chainring mount needs
DERAILLEURS chapter, page 33-5.) to be checked, but all the other problems associated with
68. [ ] If size of middle chainring or outermost the bottom bracket/crankset assembly also still need to
chainring of triple has changed, reposi- be inspected. These differences are best ascertained by
tion height of front derailleur (if outermost reviewing information published by the manufacturer.
chainring size changed). Then, put chain on
outermost chainring and check that front-
derailleur minimum capacity has not been REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
exceeded. (See FRONT DERAILLEURS chapter,
page 33-5.) OF THE CHAINRING MOUNT
Removal of chainring mount
1. [ ] Remove right crank arm from bottom-
REMOVABLE CHAINRING bracket spindle.

2. [ ] Use seal pick or similar tool to remove snap-
MOUNTS ring from in front of chainring-mount lockring.
TERMINOLOGY AND DESIGN

Shimano refers to removable chainring-mounting
arms as “chainring adapters.” They also refer to the
crank arms that utilize removable chainring mounting
arms as “spider-less” crank arms. Other manufacturers
23 – 14
23 – CHAINRINGS
3. [ ] Engage Park BBT-8 to lockring so prongs of
tool engage notches of lockring, then insert
retaining cylinder through tool and engage
it to the crank-arm-mounting bolt. NOTE:
Some brands don’t use the same notch-style
lockring. In some cases a pin spanner may
be correct tool choice.
4. [ ] Use 36mm headset spanner to turn BBT-8
counterclockwise to break loose lockring,
remove retaining cylinder, then fully
remove lockring.
5. [ ] Separate chainring mount from crank arm.
NOTE: It may be necessary to apply impact
with plastic mallet to face of chainring to
cause mount to separate from arm.
Installation of chainring mount
6. [ ] Clean splined protrusion on back face of
crank arm and spline hole in chainring mount
of any contamination.
7. [ ] Apply Loctite 242 to mating surfaces of
both spline configurations and to threads
of lockring.
8. [ ] Make sure front faces of chainring mount
and crank arm face same way, then
engage splines of chainring mount to
splines of crank arm.
9. [ ] Thread on lockring, then engage BBT-8 tools
in the same fashion as for disassembly.
10. [ ] Using Park TWB-368 on torque wrench,
torque lockring to 445–620in-lbs. NOTE: Be
sure to reduce above manufacturer’s speci-
fication by 15% to account for additional
leverage from TWB-368!
11. [ ] Engage snap-ring in groove against face of
lockring.
23 – 15
23 – CHAINRINGS
CHAINRING TROUBLESHOOTING (table 23-3)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: A popping sound or sensation is experienced once per crank-revolution, often on the down
Loose bottom-bracket cups, lockrings, or retain- Check and secure bottom-bracket cups, lockrings,
ing rings. or retaining rings.
Loose removable chainring mount. Remove retaining ring, treat splines with Loctite
242, then secure retaining ring.
SYMPTOM: A popping sound or sensation is experienced once per crank-revolution on one chainring.
SYMPTOM: A ticking or scraping sound is heard once per crank-revolution.
Chainring wobble is causing chain to intermittently Check whether mounting arm in any of the other
rub inside of front-derailleur cage. three positions reduces wobble. Check whether
outer two rings wobble in unison, and if so, align
chainring-mounting arms. Replace bent ring if one
ring is wobbling independently of all others.
Loose crank arm or bottom bracket is causing Check and secure crank arm.
chainring wobble.
Loose removable chainring mount is causing Remove retaining ring, treat splines with Loctite
chainring wobble. 242, then secure retaining ring.
Crank arm is hitting front-derailleur cage. Re-adjust front-derailleur limit screws and/or rota-
tional alignment.
SYMPTOM: Chainrings, chainring-mounting bolts, or some other part of the crank-arm assembly is rub-
bing the chain stay continuously or intermittently when the crank is being spun when not under load.
Crank arms are worn out or a bad fit to the spindle. Perform removal process, including fit inspections.
Bottom-bracket spindle is too short. Replace spindle or cartridge bottom bracket with
one that will position crank arm out further.
SYMPTOM: Wear marks are found on the chain stay where they might be left by the chainrings,
chainring-mounting bolts, or some other part of the crank-arm assembly but no rubbing is evident upon
visual inspection.
Clearance that is adequate without load is not Check for worn-out or misfit crank arm. Replace
adequate when crank assembly and/or chain stays spindle or cartridge bottom bracket with one that
flex under load. will position crank arm out further.
SYMPTOM: Chain shifts poorly from smaller ring to larger ring after checking chain for wear and check-
ing that derailleur is properly adjusted.
Chainrings have excessive shift wear. Replace ring(s) if substantial wear is evident.
SYMPTOM: Chain suck occurs. Chain remains attached to chainring where it is supposed to release
and return to the rear derailleur and jams into the chain stay.
Chain or chainrings are fouled with dirt. Clean chain and chainrings.
Chainring is worn out from load. Replace ring if substantial wear is evident.
Continued
23 – 16
23 – CHAINRINGS
CHAINRING TROUBLESHOOTING (table 23-3 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Chain is rubbing against sleeve-nut flanges of outer bolt set when chain is on innermost
chainring of triple-chainring set.
Middle chainring is installed facing wrong way Check for recesses in chainring face and reverse
so that flanges are not fitting into recesses in direction chainring is facing if recesses are not on
chainring face. side of chainring facing sleeve-nut flanges.
SYMPTOM: Chain is rubbing against adjacent chainring.
Chainline is bad, with chainrings too far in relative Check chainline error (see CHAINLINE chapter,
to rear cogs. page 27-5).
Wrong width chain being used for speed class of Nine-speed-class chainrings require nine-speed-
chainrings. class chain and ten-speed-class chainrings require
ten-speed-class chain.
Chainrings are wrong speed class for crank Replace chainrings and/or crank arm so all are of
arm, or chainrings of different speed classes are same speed class (i.e., all 8-speed, all 9-speed, or
mixed together. all 10-speed).
Offset between chainrings is inadequate due Re-check offset measurements and add, remove,
to misplacement of spacers, chainrings facing or move spacers to correct problem. Use compat-
wrong way, or replacement with non-compatible ible chainrings or crank arm or modify with differ-
chainrings or crank arm. ent spacers to eliminate compatibility problems.
SYMPTOM: Chain is dropping completely in between two chainrings when shifting.
Incorrect use of chainring spacers causing too Check and change location or use of spacers.
much chainring offset.
Non-SG/SGX/HyperDrive chainring used on SG/ Replace with compatible chainring(s).
SGX/HyperDrive-type crank arm.
SYMPTOM: Chain is rubbing against inner end of bolts of outer bolt set when chain is on innermost
chainring of triple-chainring set.
Long bolts for inner ring have been used in location – Switch bolts back if problem has been caused by
where short bolts for outer bolt set are required. reversing locations of the two bolt sets.
– Install new bolts if problem is caused by installa-
tion of wrong bolts.
23 – 17
24 – PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION
Left-hand Right-hand
thread thread
L R
PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION 24 – 3
PEDAL REMOVAL 24 – 3
PEDAL REPLACEMENT 24 – 4
PEDAL INSTALLATION 24 – 4
TOE-CLIP AND STRAP INSTALLATION 24 – 5
REPAIRING PEDAL-MOUNTING THREADS 24 – 5
PEDAL-MOUNTING TROUBLESHOOTING 24 – 7
24 – PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,

AND INSTALLATION
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER INDICATIONS

This chapter is about removing and reinstalling
pedals, as well as installing replacement pedals. There
Maintenance cycles
The only maintenance needed in regard to pedals is
are separate chapters about pedal-bearing service. After
to periodically check that they are secure.
PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION is
New pedals often have problems with loose bolts that
a section called REPAIRING PEDAL-MOUNTING THREADS.
retain the cage or cleat-retention pieces. These should be
The mounting threads in the crank arm can be damaged,
checked and secured when pedals are new.
and this section enables repair of those threads. After
REPAIRING PEDAL-MOUNTING THREADS is a trouble- Crank-arm service
shooting chart. Pedals must be removed when replacing crank arms.
It is optional to remove pedals for crank-arm cleaning.
Chainring service
GENERAL INFORMATION It is optional to remove the right pedal if removing
the chainrings.
Symptoms indicating
TERMINOLOGY loose pedals or pedal parts
Cleat-retention mechanism: The integral portion
When poor installation technique fails to keep the
of the pedal that clips to a cleat on a shoe.
pedal secure, the loose pedal may manifest itself by a
Pedal cage: The plate or plates that support the foot
once-per-crank-revolution click or clunk sound. The
on the pedal.
same symptom can be caused by a loose pedal-cage
Shoe cleat: A device attached to the bottom of the
bolt or a loose cleat-retention mechanism. This symp-
shoe that helps fix the shoe to the pedal. There are two
tom can also be caused by bottom bracket, crank arm,
types. The traditional type is a block of metal or plastic
and chainring problems. If securing the pedal and the
that is slotted. The slot in the cleat engages the edge of
pedal-cage retention bolts does not solve the problem,
the pedal-cage plate. A toe-clip and strap are used with
be sure to consult the appropriate chapters regarding
this system to help retain the foot. The modern cleat snaps
these other possible causes.
into a cleat-retention mechanism that is integrated into the
pedal. No toe-clip or strap is used with this type. Symptoms indicating bent pedal shafts
Toe clip (and strap): A cage attached to the front of A pedal shaft can be bent in a crash or from abusive
the pedal that encloses the toe of the shoe. A strap goes jumping. The symptom of a bent pedal shaft is an oscil-
through the pedal, over the arch of the foot, and through lating sensation in the ankle while pedaling. This oscil-
an eyelet in the top-end of the toe clip. This strap (called lation may feel like the ball of your foot is twisting back
“toe strap”) secures the foot to the pedal. and forth, like the outer edge of the foot is rocking up
and down, or like both of these sensations are occuring
PREREQUISITES simultaneously. The identical symptoms are caused by
bent crank arms, which can easily be damaged by the
There are no prerequisites to being able to remove
same forces that damage the pedal. The first step is to
and install pedals.
remove the pedal and look at the end of the shaft as it
rotates. If the end does not oscillate, then it is the crank
arm that is bent. If the pedal shaft oscillates, install new
pedals. If the symptom is still felt when riding with new
pedals, then the arm is also bent.
24 – 1
Symptoms indicating COMPLICATIONS

damaged pedal-mounting threads Difficult to break pedal loose
Pedal-mounting threads can be damaged by improper
Pedals can be difficult to break loose because of
pedal installation. The only symptom that will be encoun-
over-tightening, corrosion, or from turning them the
tered is difficulty threading in the pedal. It may be repair-
wrong direction. Penetrating oil, a good wrench, and
able or it may be necessary to replace the crank arm.
good technique are the only solutions when the problem
is over-tightness or corrosion.
TOOL CHOICES The left-side pedal removes with a clockwise rotation!
In the accompanying table of tool choices (table 24-1), Difficult to unthread pedal
the tools shown in bold are the preferred choices. A tool is
preferred because of a balance among ease of use, quality,
after breaking loose
When a pedal is difficult to unthread after it has
versatility, and economy. When multiple tools of the same
been broken loose, it often indicates that the threads
size are shown in bold, it means that each is the best under
are stripped or cross-threaded. Use penetrating oil and
different circumstances.
frequent breaks to allow cooling. Inspect for damaged
threads after removal.
TIME AND DIFFICULTY Difficult to start pedal threading in
Pedal removal and reinstallation is a 1–2 minute-per-
When a pedal is difficult to start in, do not force it!
pedal job of little difficulty. In some cases, the pedal may
Check whether the pedal is on the correct side, whether
be over-tightened and will require patience and fortitude
it is cross-threading or whether the crank-arm threads
to break it loose.
should be cleaned with a tap.
If the pedal threads are damaged, it could take an
additional 1–2 minutes to chase the threads. Pedals previously cross-threaded
If threads are stripped, it may take 10–30 minutes to After removing pedals that were cross-threaded, run
install a thread bushing. a tap in from the back side of the crank arm for a fully
effective repair.
PEDAL-REMOVAL/INSTALLATION TOOLS (table 24-1)

PEDAL WRENCHES
Campagnolo 1101 Fits 15, 16, and 17mm, durable, poor hand protection, and poor mechanical
advantage
Eldi 61 Fits 15mm and 9/16", poor durability and hand protection
Hozan C200 Fits 15mm only, durable, good hand protection, and good mechanical advantage
Park HCW-6 Fits 15mm only, poor hand protection, poor durability
Park PW-3 Fits 15mm and 9/16", acceptable durability and excellent hand protection
Park PW-4 Fits 15mm only, extra long, good mechanical advantage and hand protection
Park TWB-15 15mm crowfoot adapter for using torque wrench with pedal installation
Zog’s Pedal Wrench Fits 15mm only, poor hand protection, good durability
THREAD-REPAIR TOOLS
Eldi 2299 Oversize tap and thread-bushing set for repairing stripped mounting threads in crank
Park TAP-3 1/2"×20tpi left and right tap set
VAR 41A 1/2"×20tpi left and right tap set
VAR 41E 9/16"×20tpi left and right tap set
VAR 41F 14×1.25mm left and right tap set (virtually extinct French thread)
24 – 2
Pedals previously installed on wrong side

After removing pedals that were installed on the
wrong side, run a tap in from the back side of the crank
arm for a fully effective repair.
ABOUT THE REST

OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter is divided into three parts:
PEDAL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION;
REPAIRING PEDAL-MOUNTING THREADS; and PEDAL-
MOUNTING TROUBLESHOOTING.
PEDAL REMOVAL,
REPLACEMENT,
AND INSTALLATION
24.1 This is the correct orientation of crank arm and
PEDAL REMOVAL wrench and the correct directions to apply force to make
a pedal as easy as possible to break loose.
Right-side pedals remove with a counterclockwise
rotation. Left-side pedals remove with a clockwise 1. [ ] With bike elevated in bike stand and hori-
rotation. This can get confusing, particularly if standing zontal, stand on side of bike where pedal is
on the opposite side of the bike from the pedal being to be removed, facing rear of bike.
2. [ ] Position crank arm with pedal being removed
removed. To reduce this confusion, the following pro-
pointing to rear axle.
cedure specifies where to stand, the position of the crank
3. [ ] Reaching through or over frame with hand
arms, and which direction to move the wrench. closest to bike, grasp end of crank arm on
Another problem with pedal removal is that a great side that pedal is not being removed.
deal of force may be required to break a pedal loose. If 4. [ ] Put wrench on pedal flats so that it is as
the leverage of the opposite crank arm and other prin- close as possible to horizontal and pointing
ciples of mechanical advantage are not used, then it will straight forward.
be unnecessarily difficult. The following steps, if followed 5. [ ] Push down on crank arm not having pedal
faithfully, provide the greatest mechanical advantage, so removed and pull up simultaneously on end
that it is as easy as possible to break loose a pedal. This is of pedal wrench until pedal breaks free.
not to say that it is always easy. Pedals can be very difficult Once the pedal is broken loose, it will be awkward
to break loose. Other than using the following technique to unthread it the rest of the way by rotating the wrench
and using penetrating oil, nothing helps more with dif- around the pedal. It is easier just to use the wrench and
ficult pedal removal. pedal together to turn the cranks in the direction they turn
Pedals usually have 15mm wrench flats, a 6mm or when riding. The pedal will unthread automatically. Grasp
8mm hex socket in the inward end of the axle, or a com- the pedal wrench close to the pedal to make it easier to
bination of both. Removal may be very difficult, so start keep the wrench on the pedal while turning the crank.
6. [ ] Stand facing pedal being removed. Grasp
with the heaviest-duty tool available. If there are 15mm
pedal in one hand, grasp wrench with other
wrench flats, the best choice is the Park PW-4. The hex-
hand, and use both hands to turn crank in
key fittings (both sizes) are more likely to round off the same direction that crank rotates when ped-
bit socket and the bit-socket setup is less likely to have the aling bike.
leverage and security of the Park PW-4. When the only 7. [ ] Repeat steps 1–6 on other side of bike to
choice is to use a hex bit in the hex socket, use extreme remove second pedal.
care (particularly with the 6mm size).
24 – 3
PEDAL REPLACEMENT PEDAL INSTALLATION

Pedals that go in the right crank arm have a right-hand
Determining thread compatibility thread. Pedals that go in the left crank arm have a left-hand
of new pedals thread. There is usually, but not always, an “R” or “L”
There are three thread types (see table 24-2). Of these notation on the pedal. If other letters are there, or it is
three, the BSC thread is almost universal. The American difficult to read the letters, the thread direction is easy to
thread is found exclusively on inexpensive bikes with one- determine by observation, as indicated in step #14.
piece cranks and BMX bikes with one-piece cranks. Both
have such a different diameter that there is no possibility Left-hand Right-hand
of mismatching BSC and American threads. The French thread thread
thread is close enough to BSC to confuse them without
measurement, but it is so rare these days that it should not
be a concern unless replacing pedals on a bicycle made in L R
France before the late 1970s.
8. [ ] Measure thread pitch of old pedals with
thread-pitch gauge. Record pitch here: _____ 24.2 The threads sloping up to the left on the left
_____ tpi/mm example indicate that it is a left-hand thread. The
9. [ ] Measure O.D. of old pedal-mounting threads threads sloping up to the right on the right example indi-
with caliper and record here: _________ mm cate that it is a right-hand thread.
10. [ ] Measure pitch of new pedal threads and
14. [ ] Hold each pedal so that threaded shaft
compare to step 8. Pitch must be identical.
points up and examine which direction
11. [ ] Measure O.D. of new pedal thread and com-
threads slope. (Threads sloping up to right,
pare to step 9. Difference must be <.3mm.
pedal installs on right. Threads sloping up to
Checking cage-retention bolts left, pedal installs on left.)
or cleat-mechanism bolts Grease is necessary on pedal threads but anti-seize
A common source of mysterious noises coming from compound is also acceptable. Anti-seize compound is
the crank/pedal region is loose hardware on the pedal. Fac- mandatory when the pedal threads are titanium and the
tories are notorious for not getting bolts tight. Once they crank-arm threads are aluminum.
15. [ ] Grease pedal threads thoroughly. NOTE: Use
are properly tightened, they should stay tight. If allowed to
anti-seize for titanium/aluminum thread com-
loosen up and fall out, they could cause damaged threads binations.
in the pedal body and damaged pedal cages (holes will not It is best to start pedals threading in with fingers.
line up). It would be good insurance to remove the bolts This way no damage can be caused if they get installed
and treat them with Loctite 222 or 242. on the wrong side of the bike or are cross-threaded. Once
12. [ ] Check and secure all bolts holding pedal
engaged at least one full turn, then use a tool to install
cage to pedal body or cleat-retention mech-
anism to pedal body. Torque to 50in-lbs them the rest of the way.
(12lbs@3"). 16. [ ] Using fingers, start each pedal in on its appro-
NOTE: Go to step 14 if not transferring toe clips priate side (see step 14) and thread in as far
and straps to new pedals. as possible without using pedal wrench.
13. [ ] Remove straps and toe clips (if any) from old It is awkward to rotate the wrench around the pedal
pedals. to thread the pedal the rest of the way in. Instead put the
wrench on the pedal and rotate the crank (one hand on
PEDAL-MOUNTING THREADS (table 24-2)

Nominal measurement Approximate axle- Approximate Typical occurrences
(thread type) thread O.D. mounting-hole I.D.
9/16" × 20tpi 14.0–14.2mm 12.9–13.1mm Most quality bicycles with conventional three-
(BSC) piece crank sets
14mm × 1.25mm 13.7–13.9mm 12.6–12.8mm Decades-old French-made bicycles
(French)
1/2" × 20tpi 12.4–12.6mm 11.3–11.5mm Bikes with one-piece crank arms
(American)
24 – 4
wrench and one hand on pedal) backward to thread the When there are no wrench flats, use a 6mm or 8mm bit
pedal the rest of the way in. socket on a torque wrench.
17. [ ] Stand facing pedal being installed. Place 22. [ ] Pull up on crank arm not having pedal
wrench on pedal flats. Grasp pedal in one secured and push down simultaneously
hand and wrench with other hand and on end of pedal wrench with force of
use both hands to turn crank in opposite 300–360in-lbs (33–40lbs@9"). Reposition
direction than when riding. Stop when pedal wrench if it rotates past 90° from crank arm
begins to feel snug. before achieving torque.
If not set up and positioned correctly, it will be unnec- Tightening the pedal against the crank-arm face often
essarily difficult to adequately secure the pedals. Steps creates a small, sharp aluminum burr. If excess grease has
#18–#22 are the easiest way to secure the pedals. oozed out, then this burr can be hidden in the grease.
Avoid the painful experience of getting this burr in a
fingertip later by using a rag to wipe around the end of
the pedal to remove any grease and any hidden burrs, as
indicated in step #23.
23. [ ] Use rag to wipe excess grease away at point
pedal enters crank arm.
24. [ ] Repeat steps 17–23 for other pedal if nec-
essary.
TOE-CLIP AND STRAP

INSTALLATION
NOTE: Skip remaining steps if not installing toe
clips and straps.
25. [ ] Treat toe-clip-bolt threads with Loctite 222
or 242.
26. [ ] Place toe clip on outside face of front side of
pedal cage and install bolts and nuts (if any).
27. [ ] Align toe clip laterally.
28. [ ] Secure toe clip bolts to 24–36in-lbs
(8–12lbs@3").
29. [ ] Feed end of toe strap into hole on outer end
24.3 With the crank arms and wrench in this position, of pedal cage/body.
apply force in the directions indicated to easily secure
30. [ ] Twist toe strap one full twist, then thread
the pedal.
end of strap through hole in inner end of
18. [ ] With bike elevated in bike stand and hori- pedal cage/body.
zontal, stand on side of bike where pedal is 31. [ ] Feed end of top strap through loop at top of
to be installed, facing rear of bike. toe clip and once through buckle.
19. [ ] Position crank arm with pedal being secured 32. [ ] Repeat steps 25–31 for other side if nec-
pointing to rear axle. essary.
20. [ ] Reaching through or over frame with hand
closest to bike, grasp end of crank arm on
side pedal is not being secured.
21. [ ] Put wrench on pedal flats in way that it is as
close as possible to horizontal and pointing REPAIRING PEDAL-
straight forward.
Many pedals have thin wrench flats that require the
MOUNTING THREADS
Pedal threads can be damaged in a number of ways,
use of a special pedal wrench. Many others have wider
and the way that they are damaged determines whether
wrench flats that fit any open-end wrench. The ones that
or not the threads are repairable. If the pedal is poorly
require a special wrench can be torqued using a Park
aligned and threaded in with a wrench, it will cross-thread
TWB-15 crowfoot on the torque wrench. A standard
the crank arm, which is repairable. If a wrench is used
15mm crowfoot adapter for a socket wrench can be used
to start a pedal installation and it is the wrong pedal for
on a torque wrench when the pedal wrench flats are wide.
that side of the bike, the damage will be repairable. If a
24 – 5
pedal is improperly secured and unthreads, at some point In step #10, the Eldi tap is used to create the new
it will rip out of the crank arm. How far it has threaded threads. There may be circumstances when getting
out, and how much pressure there is on the pedal at the the tap to start threading is extremely difficult. The
moment it rips out, determines how many threads in the solution is to bevel the edge of the hole. A quick and
crank arm are damaged. Depending upon the extent of simple way to do this is to use a deburring tool. After
the damage, this may or may not be repairable. Step #7 is running the tool around the hole about ten times, try
an integrity test that determines, after attempting repair, to start the tap again. If it still does not start easily, use
whether the repair will hold or not. the deburring tool again.
10. [ ] Using cutting oil generously, tap through
Thread chasing crank arm with oversize tap.
1. [ ] Make sure that tap is correct for side of 11. [ ] Grease pedal-shaft threads and thread bush-
bike. (Right-hand thread for right side, left- ing by hand onto pedal shaft.
hand thread for left side.) 12. [ ] Treat outside threads of bushing with Loc-
2. [ ] Squirt cutting oil inside damaged threads tite 242, 272, or RC680.
and cover tap threads with cutting oil. 13. [ ] Thread in pedal (with bushing attached) same
3. [ ] Thread tap into back side of crank arm that as normal pedal installation, but do not torque.
has damaged threads. 14. [ ] After Loctite has cured overnight, torque
4. [ ] When encountering cutting resistance, pedal normally.
advance tap no more than 1/4 turn before 15. [ ] File excess bushing material (if any) off back
backing out 1/2 turn to clear cutting edge face of crank arm.
of fragment build-up. Add cutting oil
repeatedly.
5. [ ] Continue advancing tap (adding cutting oil
repeatedly) in this fashion until tap comes
fully out of front face of crank arm.
6. [ ] Clean threads in crank arm with toothbrush
and solvent.
If threads were stripped because the pedal came out
while the bike was being ridden, perform the integrity
test in step #7 to determine if the remaining threads
are adequate. If the threads strip further during the test,
then the crank is no worse off than before (still unus-
able). In this case, a thread bushing can be installed. The
labor to install a thread bushing may be up to half an
hour, so it may be cheaper to replace the damaged arm
in some cases.
7. [ ] Install pedal normally but torque to 600in-lbs
(67lbs@9") to test thread integrity.
8. Select one of two following choices:
[ ] Threads stripped in step 7, replace crank
arm or install thread bushing.
[ ] Threads passed integrity test in step 7,
loosen and torque normally.
Thread-bushing installation
Thread bushings can be installed in all aluminum
crank arms that are threaded with a 9/16" × 20tpi thread.
A special tool (Eldi 2299) is required. The tool reams the
old threads out and then taps the arm to a new oversize-
thread description. The thread bushing matches the new
thread on the outside and the old thread on the inside.
The Eldi tool tends to ream slightly undersize. Using
a 15mm or 19/32" drill bit should work better.
9. [ ] Use correct Eldi 2299 reamer/tap for side of
bike and clean out all existing threads.
24 – 6
PEDAL-MOUNTING TROUBLESHOOTING (table 24-3)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When riding, one ankle feels as though the end of the pedal is rocking up and down, and/or
it feels as though the surface of the pedal is rotating back and forth.
Pedal shaft is bent from a crash. Remove pedal and inspect end of pedal shaft for
oscillation when rotating. Replace if bad. If symp-
tom persists when pedal shaft is good, crank arm
is bent and should be replaced.
If pedal shaft is not bent, crank arm is bent. Replace crank arm.
SYMPTOM: A popping sound or sensation is experienced once per crank-revolution, often on the down-
Shoe cleat is moving on cage or in retention mech- Check cleat wear and security.
anism.
Cleat-retention mechanism is loose. Check and secure cleat-retention mechanism.
Loose bottom-bracket cups, lockrings, or retaining Check and secure bottom-bracket cups, lockrings,
rings. or retaining rings.
SYMPTOM: The pedal loosens up while riding
Pedal was improperly torqued. Secure pedal to 300–360in-lbs.
SYMPTOM: Looseness is felt in the pedal
Loose pedal mounting. Check and secure pedal.
Loose cage-retention bolts or cleat-retention- Check and secure cage-retention bolts or cleat-
mechanism bolts. retention-mechanism bolts.
Loose bearing adjustment or loose bearing-unit See chapters 14 and 15.
retention.
24 – 7
25 – FREEHUB MECHANISMS AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS
Freewheel bearing Freewheel outer body
Freewheel pawl Freewheel inner body
Hub shell
Cup
Hub bearing
Hub
Freewheel
Freewheel-mechanism bearings
Outer freewheel-
mechanism body Inner freewheel-
Hub cup/ mechanism body
freewheel cone Hub shell
Hub bearing
Freewheel pawl
Freehub-body
retaining bolt
Lockring Cassette cogs
FREEWHEEL SERVICE 25 – 9
REMOVAL 25 – 9
CLEANING AND LUBING 25 – 9
REPLACEMENT 25 – 10
INSTALLATION 25 – 11
WHEEL INSTALLATION AND POST-INSPECTION 25 – 12
DIFFICULT FREEWHEEL REMOVAL 25 – 12
THREADED-COG SERVICE 25 – 14
COG REMOVAL 25 – 14
COG REPLACEMENT 25 – 15
COG INSTALLATION 25 – 15
CASSETTE SERVICE 25 – 15
COG REPLACEMENT 25 – 17
COG INSTALLATION 25 – 17
FREEHUB-BODY SERVICE 25 – 18
FREEHUB-BODY REMOVAL 25 – 19
FREEHUB-BODY CLEANING AND OILING 25 – 19
FREEHUB-BODY INSTALLATION 25 – 19
HUB ASSEMBLY AND WHEEL INSTALLATION 25 – 19
CASSETTE COMPATIBILITY 25 – 20
FREEWHEEL AND FREEHUB TROUBLESHOOTING 25 – 21
25 – FREEHUB MECHANISMS
AND THREAD-ON FREEWHEELS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER systems allow independent selection of hub and freewheel
brands and models. This does not create all the versatility
This chapter is about removing and installing freehub
that might be imagined because many indexing-derailleur
mechanisms, thread-on freewheels, and the cogs that go
systems require specific cog sets in order to function at
on freewheels and freehubs. These items are removed for
peak performance, and in some cases these cog sets might
cleaning, replacement, access to spokes, and, in the case
be available only on a freehub mechanism.
of thread-on freewheels, access to the axle set and hub
Freewheel bearing Freewheel outer body
bearings. Some cartridge-bearing hubs are freehubs, but
the freehub design is unique to the hub. This section only Freewheel pawl Freewheel inner body
covers conventional freehub-mechanism designs. Special
freehub mechanisms are covered in the procedure for
the hub that uses the special design (see the CARTRIDGE- Hub shell
BEARING HUBS chapter, page 13-1).
Cup
Hub bearing
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY
Some of these terms are confusingly similar, so it makes Hub
sense to spend a bit of time considering terminology and Freewheel
definitions before looking at the list of terms.
Thread-on freewheels
A thread-on freewheel is a mechanism consisting of a
25.1 A hub and thread-on freewheel in cross-sectional
freewheeling mechanism and a set of cogs attached. The view.
mechanism threads onto a hub shell and is independent of
the bearings of the hub. This means that the entire freewheel Freehubs (freehub mechanisms)
can be removed without disassembling the hub, and once it A freehub usually has the same freewheel-mechanism
is removed, the hub is still fully intact and functional. inner body, pawl and ratchet mechanism, freewheel-mech-
The freewheel mechanism consists of a two-piece body, anism outer body, and cogs attached to the outer body.
with the inner and outer body rotating independently of Some freehub mechanisms use alternative systems to the
each other on sets of bearings (see figure 25.1). The inner pawl and ratchet-ring design. The inner body still fixes to
body threads onto the hub shell and remains fixed to the the hub shell, although not necessarily by threading on.
hub shell. The outer body engages the inner body by means When the hub has conventional cup-and-cone bearings,
of pawls and a ratchet ring that cause the two body pieces the inner body piece has integrated into its outer end the
to rotate as one when the chain drives the cogs attached right-side hub-bearing cup (see figure 25.2, page 25-2).
to the outer body piece. When the chain is not applying This means that the freewheel mechanism and the
drive force and the bike is coasting, the pawls disengage the hub bearings are not independent systems. The practical
ratchet ring and allow the inner body to turn free of the consequence of this is that it is not necessary to remove
outer body, so that the cogs do not drive the chain. the freewheel mechanism to service the hub bearings, but
With this system, freewheeling-mechanism removal it is necessary to remove the hub axle and bearings to
is generally required for hub-bearing adjustment or over- remove and service the freewheel mechanism. To access
haul and for accessing spokes. Thread-on-freewheel/hub spokes on a freehub rear wheel, it is not necessary to
25 – 1
remove the freewheel mechanism. However, the cogs must Freehub body: This applies to the freewheeling-
be removed from the freewheel mechanism. mechanism portion of a freehub, without cogs attached.
Freehubs may be required for use with certain Freewheel: Used to describe a freewheel that threads
indexing-derailleur systems because compatible cog onto a rear hub. (The freewheel mechanism and the hub
sets are only available on a freehub. Freehubs have an bearings are independent systems.)
advantage in their design due to the repositioning of the Freewheel body: Used to describe the freewheel
right-side hub bearing. The different position reduces mechanism of a freewheel without the cogs attached.
the stack of spacers on the right end of the axle, which Freewheel mechanism: A mechanism that consists
reduces the occurrence of bent axles (something that is of two pieces that can rotate separately. Usually one has
problematic on thread-on-freewheel/hub combinations, a ratchet ring and the other has pawls, so that they can
particularly when exceeding six cogs). rotate together when the outer piece is being driven and
Freehubs are sometimes called “cassette hubs,” but independently when the inner piece is being driven. (See
this is a misnomer; although, some freehubs have a cas- figures 25.1 and 25.2.)
sette cogset. This means that the cogs are removed and Freehub body
installed as a group, rather than individually. Individual
cogs can always be put back on where the cassette was
removed, so there is no such thing as a cassette hub or a
hub that requires cassette cogs.
Freewheel-mechanism bearings
Outer freewheel-
mechanism body Inner freewheel-
mechanism body
25.3 A freehub.
Hub cup/
freewheel cone Hub shell Lockring: A threaded ring that holds cogs onto a
freehub body.
Hub bearing
Freewheel pawl Pawl: A pivoting tooth that engages or slides over the
teeth in a ratchet ring, depending on the relative direction
of rotation.
Ratchet ring: A geared ring that has teeth pointing
in one direction that engage a pawl if rotated one way and
pass over the pawl if rotated the other way.
PREREQUISITES
Freehub-body
retaining bolt
Wheel removal and installation
Wheel removal and installation is required for any
Lockring Cassette cogs type of freewheel or freehub work.
Rear-derailleur adjustment or
25.2 A freehub in cross-sectional view. replacement
Rear-derailleur adjustment or replacement may be
The following are the terms and definitions that are required in several cases. If an identical model of freewheel
used in this chapter. or freehub cogs are being installed, but cog sizes are differ-
Cassette: Also cassette cogs. A set of cogs for a freehub ent, derailleur adjustment will be required. If the derailleur’s
that are removed, replaced, or installed as a set instead of maximum capacity is exceeded, derailleur replacement will
individually. Often used to apply to all the cogs on a freehub, be required. Any time the brand, model, or number of cogs
whether the cogs are installed individually or as a set. are changed, derailleur adjustment is required.
Cogs: Also gears or freewheel cogs, this refers to the
toothed gears that engage the chain, whether mounted Axle removal and hub adjustment
on a freewheel body or a freehub body. Axle removal and consequential hub adjustment may
Freehub: This applies to the complete integrated be required for two reasons. The axle will need to be
hub/freewheeling mechanism with or without the cogs removed for certain difficult freewheel removals and the
attached. axle will need to be re-spaced if changing the number of
cogs when replacing a freewheel or freehub body.
25 – 2
Wheel dishing and truing eventually deviate from their original half-inch pitch (the
If the hub axle is re-spaced to accommodate a free- distance from one tooth to the next). As long as the same
wheel or freehub body with a different number of cogs, chain is used, there will probably be no symptom, because
then it will be necessary to re-dish the wheel, and conse- the chain wears to match the teeth. As soon as the worn
quentially re-true the wheel. chain is replaced, the symptom is more likely to occur.
Frame alignment 1 – Firm pressure

If the hub is being re-spaced to accommodate a free-
wheel or freehub body with a different number of cogs,
then it is likely that the wheel will no longer fit the frame Rohloff HG/IG-Check
correctly. In this case, it may be required to align the rear
triangle of the frame.
INDICATIONS
Maintenance cycles
There are two types of maintenance that need to be
performed on freewheels/freehubs: external cleaning,
and internal cleaning and oiling. External (cog) cleaning
should be performed whenever the chain is cleaned.
Differences in riding conditions make it impossible to
put a time or mile value on this need. Internal cleaning
and oiling should be done whenever there is a problem
with the freewheel mechanism exhibiting symptoms of
sticking (not freewheeling) or skipping (not engaging). In
the case of freewheels, the internal cleaning will generally
be done when cleaning the cogs because it is easiest to
do both at once. In the case of freehubs, the cogs are 2 – Move last link in and out of teeth
generally removed from the freehub body to be cleaned, 25.4 Use a Rohloff HG/IG-Check to check cog wear. If
so internal cleaning and oiling are not done at that time. any resistance is felt when moving the last link in or out
On the other hand, the freehub body is easiest to clean of the cog, the cog is worn out.
when doing a hub overhaul. When this symptom occurs, it calls for replacement of
It is a common mistake to routinely oil the internals of the worn cogs. If only a few cogs are worn and individual
the freewheel mechanism. This is a good way to introduce replacements are available, then it may make financial sense
dirt to the inside. If there are negative symptoms, always to only replace these cogs, but in general, it is advisable
assume that internal cleaning is needed and only oil after or even necessary to replace whole freewheels or cogs on
cleaning. If negative symptoms are not present, there is a freehub in sets.
no need for oiling. A similar symptom can occur when the pawl and
Symptoms indicating worn-out cogs ratchet mechanism inside the freehub body/freewheel
It is recommended to periodically check the cogs for body is malfunctioning. If the problem is cog-tooth wear,
wear, particularly if replacing a chain or cogs but not both then the problem will happen on a specific cog or cogs.
at once. There is a tool (Rohloff HG/IG-Check) that can If it is a problem with the pawl and ratchet mechanism,
be used for just this purpose (see figure 25.4). it will happen in every gear but only when there is a
If the chain slips or skips on a cog when pedaling hard, high-level load.
the cog or cogs may be worn out. With this problem, it may A similar symptom may occur on a bike with an
be possible to ride all day with the chain on a certain cog indexing rear derailleur when the indexing adjustment is
as long as pedal pressure is light. As soon as extra force borderline. In this case, what is actually happening is that
is applied to the pedals, there is a loud metallic clunk that the chain is jumping from one cog to the next when the
comes from the vicinity of the rear wheel and the pedals shift lever is not being operated, and it should feel like the
may seem to give way and then catch again after an inch gear has changed after the symptom occurs.
or two of motion. Cog teeth wear from load, so that they
25 – 3
Symptoms indicating need for internal is not adjustable, so when the symptom occurs on a new
mechanism it should be considered a warrantable failure,
cleaning or freewheel/freehub-body and when it occurs on an old mechanism it should be con-
replacement sidered time to replace the freewheel or freehub body.
When freewheeling occurs when pedaling, constantly
or intermittently, the freewheel mechanism may need inter- Symptoms indicating bad freewheel or
nal cleaning or parts may have failed. The pawl and ratchet freehub mounting
mechanism inside the freewheel body or freehub body is If the cogs appear to wobble side to side while coast-
surprisingly delicate for the job it does of converting the ing, it might seem as though there is a problem with the
pedaling load to the rear hub. Small parts are moved by way the freewheel or freehub body is mounted. This
hair-thin springs in tight, confining spaces. Dirt or rust is a normal condition due to a lack of precision in the
can severely inhibit the motion of the pawls and create the freewheel/freehub-body bearings and is not a problem
symptom of the freewheel not engaging when pedaling if the wobble does not occur while pedaling.
force is applied. Cleaning and lubrication can potentially If the cogs appear to wobble side to side while
solve this problem. When they do not, it means the rust pedaling, there may be a problem with the mounting of
is too far advanced or the pawls or pawl springs are worn the freewheel or freehub body. This occurs for different
out or damaged. These parts are generally not available reasons on thread-on freewheels and freehubs. It is only
separately, so the normal solution is to replace the entire a problem if the degree of wobble interferes with making
freewheel or freehub body. a good derailleur adjustment and getting the chain to run
Another symptom that may be experienced when on one cog without rubbing on the next.
coasting, is that the cogs continue to turn with the wheel, If the problem of wobbling while pedaling occurs on
pushing the chain. Dirt, rust, and worn or damaged pawls a hub with a thread-on freewheel, it generally indicates
or pawl springs can cause this symptom. Sometimes this that the freewheel is cross-threaded, in which case the
symptom is called “ghost rider” because while the rider’s hub is probably destroyed. If the freewheel-mounting
feet are off the pedals, the pedals continue to turn on their threads are in good condition, it indicates that the spoke
own. If cleaning and lubricating does not solve the problem, guard is mounted off-center (try a new one or none at
then the pawls or pawl springs have failed. These parts are all) or that the hub or freewheel was mis-threaded from
generally not available separately, so the normal solution is the factory (generally warrantable). It never has anything
to replace the entire freewheel or freehub body. to do with a bent axle.
If the wobbling-while-pedaling problem is on a
Symptoms indicating need of freewheel freehub, it indicates that the bolt that holds the freehub
or freehub-body overhaul body to the hub shell is loose. Immediate service is
Due to the lack of replacement parts available and required. To tighten the bolt, the axle must be removed
due to the fact that freewheels old enough to have internal from the hub.
problems undoubtedly have limited life left in the cogs,
overhauling the inside of freewheels or freehub bodies is not Thread-on freewheel-hub service
recommended. When cleaning and oiling does not eliminate It is necessary to remove and reinstall a thread-on
symptoms, replace the freewheel or freehub body. freewheel if adjusting or overhauling a thread-on free-
wheel hub.
Symptoms indicating loose freewheel/
freehub-body bearings Spoke access
If replacing a spoke or rebuilding a wheel, the
When a steady, light clunking sound comes from the
freewheel or cogs on the freehub block access to the
freewheel in some gears more than others and at some
hub flange. If it is a hub with a thread-on freewheel, the
pedaling speeds but not others, it indicates the bearings are
freewheel must be removed first. It is important to note that
loose. If the freewheel/freehub-body bearing adjustment
there is no way to remove the freewheel reliably if the spokes are cut
gets too loose, it allows the outer body to float side to
before the freewheel is removed. If the hub is a freehub, the cogs
side and make a clunk when it reaches its limit each way.
must be removed from the freehub body to access the hub
This happens in some gears but not others, and at some
flange, but the freehub body need not be removed.
pedaling speeds but not others, because the direction and
amount of load from the chain influences whether the
outer body is free to float. All freewheel-mechanism bear- TOOL CHOICES
ings are designed to have some free play. It is too much The design or brand of the freewheel/freehub deter-
only when this symptom occurs. The play in these bearings mines the tool needed. The preferred choices in table
25 – 4
25-1 (page 25-6) are in bold. A tool is preferred because Bicycle Research
of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility, and CT3
economy. When more than one tool for one function is
bold, it means that several tools are required for different
configurations of parts.
Shimano TL-FW20
30.0mm
18.8mm 25.8 This is a Maillard/Atom/Sachs splined freewheel

with 24 splines and a 30.0mm hole. The preferred tool
that fits it is shown.
25.5 This Shimano 12-splined freewheel with an
18.8mm hole is rare. The preferred tool that fits it is
shown.
20mm
Park FR-4
Shimano TL-FW10
20.4mm
25.9 This older Shimano notched freewheel with

6.5mm notch width and a 20.0mm hole sometimes
25.6 This 20-splined freewheel with a 20.4mm hole is requires removal of a plastic dustcap before the tool will
made by several manufacturers. The preferred tool that fit. The preferred tool that fits it is shown.
fits it is shown.
Park FR-1
20.3mm
21.9mm
Park FR-3
25.10 This four-notch freewheel with a 20.3mm hole
25.7 This Shimano 12-splined freewheel with a is the last configuration made by SunTour. It is the most
20.4mm hole is the most recent configuration. The pre- common notched, multispeed freewheel that might still
ferred tool that fits it is shown. be encountered. The tool that fits it is shown.
25 – 5
Shimano TL-FW45
20.3mm
Park FR-2
25.11 This two-notch freewheel with a 7.4mm notch 25.12 This four-notch BMX freewheel with a large
width and a 20.3mm hole is an older variety made by hole has been made by Shimano and SunTour. The tool
SunTour. The preferred tool that fits it is shown. that fits it is shown.
FREEWHEEL AND FREEHUB TOOLS (table 25-1)

SPLINED-FREEWHEEL REMOVERS (see figures 25.5, 25.6, 25.7, and 25.8 on page 25-5)
Bicycle Research CT2 Thick-wall tool fits Atom & Regina w/ 20.4mm hole (requires axle removal)
Park FR-4 Thin-wall tool fits Atom, Regina, and Zeus w/ 20.4mm hole
Phil Wood Atom tool Thin-wall tool fits Atom, Regina, and Zeus w/ 20.4mm hole
Bicycle Research CT3 Fits Atom, Maillard, Normandy, Schwinn freewheels w/ 30mm hole
Bicycle Research CT4 Thick-wall tool fits old Shimano w/ 18.8mm hole (requires axle removal)
Shimano TL-FW20 Thick-wall tool fits old Shimano w/ 18.8mm hole (requires axle removal)
Bicycle Research CT6 or Thin-wall CT6 fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole; heavy-
CT6MB duty thick-wall CT6MB requires axle removal
Park FR-1 Thin-wall tool fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole
Shimano TL-FW30 Thin-wall tool fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole
VAR 414 Thin-wall tool fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole
Bicycle Research CT5 Fits rare TDC three-spline freewheel
NOTCHED-FREEWHEEL REMOVERS (see figures 25.9, 25.10, 25.11, and 25.12 on pages 25-5 and 25-6)
Bicycle Research CT7 Fits SunTour 2-notch freewheels
Park FR-2 Fits SunTour 2-notch freewheels
Bicycle Research CT10 Fits SunTour 4-notch freewheels
Bicycle Research CT1 Fits Shimano/Regina 2-notch freewheels, not recommended
Bicycle Research CT600 Fits Shimano/Regina 2-notch freewheels, not recommended
Shimano TL-FW10 Fits Shimano/Regina 2-notch freewheels
Bicycle Research CT-9 Fits Campagnolo 2-notch
Campagnolo 0520/40 Fits Campagnolo 2-notch
VAR 404 Fits Campagnolo 2-notch
Shimano TL-FW45 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels
Park FR-6 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels on hub with 14mm axle
Lifu 09E1 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels on hub with 14mm axle
Keng Pey 921 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels that are slightly smaller than standard
Lifu 09D1 Fits Shimano and SunTour 2-notch BMX freewheels
Continued
25 – 6
FREEWHEEL AND FREEHUB TOOLS (table 25-1 continued)

CASSETTE-LOCKRING REMOVERS
Park FR-5 Fits Shimano HG/IG lockrings
Shimano TL-HG15 Fits Shimano HG/IG lockrings
Stein HLD Fits Shimano HG/IG lockrings, works best used with Stein HLW wrench
Campagnolo 7130036 Fits Campagnolo cassette-cog-retaining lockrings
Park BBT-5 Fits Campagnolo cassette-cog-retaining lockrings
VAR 414B Fits Campagnolo cassette-cog-retaining lockrings
COG TOOLS (for stabilizing or turning cassette or freewheel cogs)
Pedro's 6451300 Single-ended three-pin tool holds cassette stationary while using lockring tool;
fits 11 and 12 cogs but ideally two tools still needed if using this brand (works
best if each end is dedicated to one size)
Stein HH-11/14 Double-ended three-pin tool holds cassette stationary while using lockring tool;
fits 11, 12, 13, and 14 cogs but ideally two tools still needed if using this
brand (works best if each end is dedicated to one size)
Stein HH-11/12 and Single-ended version of HH-11/14 but with nicer handle; HH-11/12 fits 11 and
HH-13/14 12 cogs and HH-13/14 fits 12 and 13 cogs but ideally two of each still needed
if using this brand (works best if end is dedicated to one size)
X-Axis No-Whip- Utilizes gear-shaped cutout to hold cassette stationary while using lockring
Chain-Whips tool; three tools to fit 11, 12, and 13 cogs; excellent design but hard to find
Bicycle Research CV1 Freewheel vise holds freewheel for cog removal
Hozan C62 Strongest sprocket remover made, with good leverage and hand protection but
not compatible with 8-, 9-, and 10-speed cog sets
Pamir TW-1 Strong sprocket remover with excellent hand protection; hex fitting fits
Shimano cog and lockring tools; reasonably compatible with all cog sets
Park SR-1 Strong sprocket remover with fair hand protection, also acts as handle for
Park freewheel removers; problems with interference from bolt heads in
some applications
Park SR-2 Similar to Hozan C62, slightly more expensive, bolts hold chains to tool
Wheels CRT-A1 Strong sprocket remover with fair hand protection with 3/32" chain
COG- and BEARING-SERVICE TOOLS
Rohloff HG/IG-Check Excellent tool for check cog wear on all brands and models of cogs
Park GSC-1 Cleaning tool for cogs
Shimano TL-FH40 For securing race or disassembling freehub body
Park SPA-2 Red pin spanner fits certain freewheel dustcaps and bearing cones
Morningstar FHB1 Adapter allows flushing Shimano (except Dura-Ace 6- & 7-speed) freehub
bodies with solvent and air
Morningstar FHB2 Adapter allows flushing Shimano Dura-Ace (except 8-speed) freehub bodies
with solvent and air
Morningstar FHB3 Adapter allows flushing pre-1991 SunTour freehub bodies with solvent and air
Morningstar FHB4 Adapter allows flushing SunTour freehub bodies with solvent and air
Morningstar J4M Removes dustcap from Shimano freehub body
Stein FWG Adapter allows flushing most freewheels with solvent and air
FREEHUB-BODY REMOVERS
Shimano TL-FH10 For removing Dura-Ace freehub body
10mm hex-bit socket For removing most Shimano and SunTour freehub bodies
25 – 7
TIME AND DIFFICULTY ward, then it is a freehub (probably a Shimano or Sachs).

If it is none of these, it is probably a SunTour freehub or
Freewheel removal/installation some lesser-known brand of freehub.
Once the wheel is off, it is usually a simple matter
to remove and install a freewheel. It normally takes 2–3
Damaged freewheel-removal system
Notched-freewheel-removal systems are prone to
minutes and poses little difficulty. In cases where the free-
damage. The tool slips and the notches strip out. When
wheel is damaged where it engages the remover, the nature
this happens, the freewheel is a loss. Instead of removing it
of the job changes completely; freewheel disassembly is
in the conventional manner, it will need to be disassembled
required, a job that may take 10–15 minutes and is mod-
for removal. This removal technique is described in detail
erately difficult. In cases where the freewheel is so tight
later (page 25-12).
that thin-walled splined removers such as the Park FR-1
Prevention of this failure is always possible. Use of
and FR-4 are failing before loosening the freewheel, it is
the correct removal tool and careful adherence to the rec-
necessary to remove the axle set so that a heavier-duty
ommended procedures will prevent virtually all failures.
remover (that can only be used with the axle out) can fit.
Removing and replacing the axle set is an additional 10–15 Stuck freewheel won’t break loose,
minute job of moderate difficulty. or remover breaks
Freehub-body removal and installation A freewheel can be so tight that it may take two peo-
Freehub bodies are only accessible when the axle set ple to remove. If the remover is the correct fit, properly
is removed from the hub. Removing and installing the secured, and the wheel is in a stable condition, then the
axle is a 10–15 minute job of moderate difficulty. While worse that may happen is that the freewheel remover (thin-
the hub is apart, the freehub body can be removed and wall type) may break. If this occurs, there are heavier-duty
installed in 2–3 minutes with little difficulty. removers that are more awkward to use but effective.
Cog removal and installation Axle set interferes with freewheel

Cog removal and installation is a 5–10 minute job of remover
little technical difficulty but a great deal of exertion may Thick-wall splined removers require locknuts and
be required. At times, the cog-removal tool will break or spacers to be removed from the right side first. Some-
bend before the cog will break loose. times this hardware will just thread off the right side of
the axle, but usually the axle must be stripped on the left
Freewheel, freehub body, and cog side in order to be pushed out the right side.
cleaning Some cartridge-bearing hubs cannot have the hard-
Once the parts to be cleaned are removed and ware stripped off the right side and cannot have the axle
accessible, the cleaning will take 2–10 minutes. It is not pushed out the right side of the hub unless the freewheel
technically difficult but can take a lot of elbow grease. is removed. In these cases, there are two options. The
choices are to use a thin-wall remover or to disassemble
COMPLICATIONS the freewheel to remove it without a remover (which
destroys the freewheel).
Identifying freehubs versus
threaded hubs with thread-on No correct remover available
freewheels for freewheel type
Almost all freewheels ever made still have removers
The first complication is just to know whether it is a available. In the unlikely event that there is no remover
freehub or a threaded hub with thread-on freewheel that available, then the only option is to disassemble the free-
is being dealt with. wheel to remove it without a remover (which destroys
When the wheel is off, look at the face of the the freewheel).
freewheel/freehub body. If the axle appears to come out
of a hole in the body and the edge of the hole has two or Rim has been removed before freewheel
four indentations (notches) in its inner perimeter, then it The leverage of the rim is required to turn the hub out
is a thread-on freewheel that takes a pronged freewheel of the freewheel. When the rim has been removed, there
remover. If the hole has splines (about 20) and the splines is a good likelihood that either the hub or freewheel will
do not move when turning the cogs backward, then it is a need to be sacrificed. The section of this chapter about
thread-on freewheel that takes a splined remover. If the difficult freewheel removal describes all the options in
splines turn with the cogs when the cogs are turned back- detail (page 25-13).
25 – 8
Difficult threaded-cog removal

Threaded cogs are tightened by the rider’s legs and
FREEWHEEL SERVICE
consequently can be extremely secure. The result is that
it can take the strength of two people or a large lever to REMOVAL
break loose a cog. It is not unusual for the cog-removal tool 1. [ ] Use steps 1–16 of WHEEL REMOVAL,
to fail during removal of extremely difficult cogs. For this REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION (REMOVING A
reason, it is important to never skimp on the quality of a FRONT OR REAR WHEEL) to remove wheel (page
cog-removal tool and to always inspect it carefully before 18-6).
2. [ ] Remove quick-release skewer or right-side
use. Furthermore, set the work up in anticipation of what
axle nut from axle.
might happen if something suddenly gave way. 3. [ ] Mate freewheel remover to freewheel.
Difficult lockring removal In the next step, use the quick-release skewer or axle
Freehub-cog lockrings can be difficult to remove. Use nut to retain the remover against the freewheel-body face.
of a proper tool and technique is critical. It is important to Freewheel removal is a very high-force procedure, and
have the tool properly retained so that it does not slip out the potential for damaging the remover or the freewheel
of place, and it is necessary to resist the cogset rotation is high. Stabilizing the remover minimizes any chance of damage,
by using a cog-removal tool on the outermost cog. The so do not skip this step, regardless of how many times this has been
larger inner cogs can easily warp if they are used to resist successfully attempted in the past!
rotation during a difficult lockring removal. 4. [ ] Install quick-release skewer or right-side
axle nut and tighten to hold remover firmly
Lockring will not engage after installing against freewheel.
new cogset on freehub 5. [ ] With wheel horizontal and freewheel-side
If the lockring will not engage the freehub body after down, put wrench flats of remover in vise
installing a new cogset, it usually means that the new cogset and secure vise.
has more cogs than the freehub body is designed for. In the next step, a great force will be applied to the
wheel to break loose the freewheel. As soon as it breaks
Lockring secures but new cogset loose, stop turning the wheel and remove the skewer or axle
remains loose on freehub body nut. The reason for this is that as the freewheel threads
Not all Shimano cog sets are compatible with all further off, the skewer or axle nut will be in the way. If
Shimano freehub bodies. In particular, installing a the retaining device is left in place and the wheel is turned
compact-drive cogset (usually with an 11-tooth cog) much past the break-free point, then the hub, the skewer,
on a freehub body that was not originally designed for or the axle may be destroyed.
compact drive will result in this symptom. 6. [ ] With hands positioned 180° apart, turn
wheel counterclockwise just until freewheel
breaks loose.
ABOUT THE REST 7. [ ] Remove wheel from vise and remove quick-
OF THIS CHAPTER release skewer or axle nut that is retaining

freewheel remover.
The rest of this chapter is divided into the following 8. [ ] Turn freewheel remover counterclockwise
sections. First, is FREEWHEEL SERVICE. The next sec- with fingers or wrench to thread freewheel
tion is DIFFICULT FREEWHEEL REMOVAL, which includes off fully.
removing notched freewheels with stripped-out notches
and removing freewheels when there is no rim attached
to the hub. This is followed by THREADED COG SERVICE. CLEANING AND LUBING
Next is the section CASSETTE SERVICE. The next section Skip to REPLACEMENT (page 25-10) if installing new
is FREEHUB-BODY SERVICE. The next section is CASSETTE freewheel or skip to INSTALLATION (page 25-11) after
COMPATIBILITY. The last section is FREEWHEEL AND FREE- performing other operations or if freewheel is just being
HUB TROUBLESHOOTING. removed to enable hub or spoke work.
Some sources state that it is a bad idea to submerge a
freewheel in solvent. This is the only practical way to clean
the inside. The only reason not to submerge a freewheel in
solvent is that if it is not dried thoroughly, the remaining
solvent will break down the lubricants added.
25 – 9
Most Sachs freewheels have a special port for injecting freewheel cogs and the adjustment of the rear derailleur;
solvent, compressed air, or lubricant into the inside of the with the spacing of the freewheel cogs and the increments
body. This port is hidden underneath the cogs, which must of the indexing shift system; and with the spacing of the
be removed. With a Sachs freewheel, it is preferable to freewheel cogs and the width of the chain.
use this port than to use the techniques described in the
following procedure for cleaning, drying, and lubing.
Thread compatibility
Thread compatibility is important but rarely an issue.
9. [ ] Submerge freewheel in solvent and let it
soak for as much time as is available. Older French bikes had hubs with a 1mm thread pitch,
10. [ ] With freewheel still submerged, rotate and the only replacement freewheels available today are
freewheel-mechanism inner body back and a 24tpi pitch. There are actually several thread descrip-
forth to agitate solvent and break loose dirt tions that have a 24tpi pitch, but they are all acceptable to
inside freewheel body, or use Stein FWG to interchange, so only pitch need be considered in regard to
force solvent through freewheel body. thread compatibility. The procedure provides an opportu-
11. [ ] Use Park GSC-1 to scrub outside of free- nity to compare pitch of the old and new freewheel.
wheel, cleaning cog teeth and inner and
outer faces of freewheel body thoroughly. Freewheel width
The ideal way to dry the inside of a freewheel is by If the new freewheel has a different number of cogs,
blowing compressed air through it. This can do the job in or if changing from a narrow-spaced six-speed to a wide-
minutes. For really fast cleaning and drying, install a Stein spaced six-speed (or the reverse), then there will definitely
FWG on the back of the freewheel and force solvent and be an issue of whether the freewheel width will fit with the
then air through the port in the tool. If a compressor is not existing space on the hub for the freewheel and whether
available for freewheel drying, then patience is required. the derailleur will need re-adjustment. If modifying the
Out in the sun on a hot day, the inside of the freewheel hub to fit the new freewheel, then the wheel needs to
might dry out in an hour or two. Left on a bench top with be re-dished and the frame needs to be re-spaced. Even
no direct sunlight, count on it taking at least overnight. when the new freewheel uses the same number of cogs
Contrary to popular opinion, the only lubricant needed and does not change in spacing from narrow to wide (or
inside a freewheel is oil. Grease can actually damage a free- vice versa), the spacing might be slightly different if the
wheel or inhibit its ability to function normally. Another new and old freewheels are different brands or models.
popular mistake is to put too much oil in the freewheel. A derailleur adjustment may be required. The procedure
This causes oil to drip out, which leads to more problems provides an opportunity to detect whether the width of
with dirt on the freewheel and to a mucky mess on the a new freewheel will require any of the above modific-
spokes and perhaps the rim. Using an aerosol lubricant ations. But if the modifications are required, refer to the
that does not have a rapid-evaporation base is a sure way appropriate chapters for the procedures for performing
to over-lube the freewheel. Test the aerosol by spraying a the modifications.
small amount on a surface and checking in 10 minutes to Freewheel size and derailleur capacity
see if it has obviously dried. If so, it should be fine in the Derailleurs are made to fit certain maximum cog sizes
freewheel. If using a non-aerosol oil, drip in just 10–15 and to take up a certain amount of slack chain, which is
drops of oil on each face of the freewheel. a function of the size differential between the smallest
12. [ ] Dry freewheel thoroughly, then squirt small
and largest freewheel cogs and the smallest and largest
amount of oil into crack between inner body
and outer body, both on outer and inner face chainrings on the bike. This is most likely to be a problem
of freewheel body. if the bike is a road bike with narrow “racing” type gear-
ing and the freewheel is being changed to get lower gear
ratios, or if putting a freewheel with a 34-tooth cog on
REPLACEMENT any bike. The procedure provides an opportunity to check
Skip to INSTALLATION (page 25-11) if installing the for a problem with rear-derailleur capacity but not until
same freewheel that was removed. the new cogs have been installed and the wheel is back on
Replacing a freewheel with a different one brings up all the bike. The means to correct the problems that might
kinds of issues about compatibility. There are compatibil- occur with chain length and rear-derailleur capacity are
ity issues with the thread of the hub and the thread of the covered in the CHAINS chapter and the REAR DERAILLEUR
freewheel; with the width of the freewheel and the space chapter (page numbers are provided when needed in the
on the hub for the freewheel to fit; with the size of the cogs following procedure).
and the capacity of the derailleur; with the spacing of the
25 – 10
Index compatibility and chain-width It is easy to carelessly cross-thread a freewheel onto

the hub. Once started wrong, it is very difficult to restart
compatibility correctly. In the following step, you install the freewheel
Problems with index-shifting compatibility are cov-
while the wheel is horizontal and with the axle visibly
ered in the REAR DERAILLEUR chapter (page 32-7).
centered in the hole in the freewheel to help prevent this.
Problems with chain-width compatibility are covered
It is also important to use fingers and not a tool to thread
in the CHAINS chapter (page 26-2).
13. [ ] With pitch gauge, measure pitch of old free-
on the freewheel, so that if the freewheel does begin to
wheel and new freewheel. If pitches match, thread in crossed-up, the damage will be minimized.
freewheels are thread compatible. 17. [ ] With wheel horizontal and right end of axle
facing up, drop freewheel onto hub, center
If old and new freewheel are not axle in freewheel hole, and use fingers only
identical model and number of cogs to thread freewheel onto hub.
NOTE: Skip to step 16 if new freewheel is same Once the freewheel is hand-threaded on, it does
model and number of cogs as old freewheel. need to be tightened with a tool, particularly if a derail-
14. Perform following calculation to determine leur adjustment is to be performed. In the next step,
width compatibility: secure the freewheel so that it is ready for derailleur
[ ] Use caliper to measure width from inner adjustment, and also make sure that the outermost
face of inner cog to outer face of outer cog of cog is secure—a common need with new freewheels.
old freewheel and record here: __________mm There is likely to be some confusion the first time you
[ ] Use caliper to measure width from inner
use a cog-removal tool on a cog. There are usually two
face of inner cog to outer face of outer cog
of new freewheel and record here:
pieces of chain and both must engage the cog. One
__________mm section of chain is short and fixed at both ends to the
[ ] Subtract first measurement from second tool. Engage this to the cog first. The other section
measurement and record difference here: of chain is long and is attached to the tool at one end
__________mm only. This piece wraps around the cog in the opposite
(Be sure to include negative sign if first mea- direction than the cog and freewheel will be turning.
surement is larger than second.) See figure 25.14.
25.13 Measure freewheel width in this fashion.

15. Check one of following options to determine
course of action, depending on type of
width incompatibility:
[ ] Difference in step 14 is between .5mm
and –.5mm; freewheel is width compatible
and will require no hub re-spacing, wheel re-
dishing, or frame re-spacing.
[ ] Difference in step 14 is >.5mm; freewheel
is not width compatible and may require hub
re-spacing, wheel re-dishing, frame re-spacing,
and rear-derailleur adjustment.
[ ] Difference in step 14 is a negative value
below –.5mm; rear-derailleur adjustment is
required.
INSTALLATION
16. [ ] Prepare threads inside freewheel body with 25.14 Place cog-removal tool on outermost
heavy application of grease or anti-seize sprocket, as shown, to simultaneously tighten outer-
compound. most cog and freewheel.
25 – 11
18. [ ] Use cog remover on outermost cog to simul- the notches in the innermost ring of the face of the
taneously secure outermost cog to free- freewheel can strip. First, try the correct tool, properly
wheel and freewheel to hub. retained, to see if that will work. If further stripping
occurs, the freewheel must be removed and replaced. To
WHEEL INSTALLATION do this, the following procedure suggests disassembling
the freewheel so that the inner body can be grasped
AND POST-INSPECTION directly in the vise to hold it while threading the hub out
19. [ ] Use steps 9–19 of WHEEL REMOVAL, of the freewheel inner body.
REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure 1. [ ] Remove freewheel remover if still in place.
(REAR WHEELS) to install wheel (page 18-17). Most freewheels have a cone that is the flat ring just
The next step is needed only if the size of the out from the innermost ring of the freewheel-body face
outermost and/or innermost cogs has changed. These (the one that has the removal notches). This cone typically
changes can affect chain length and derailleur capacity. has two small, round holes in it for the engagement of a
The tests for chain length and derailleur capacity are pin spanner. Although such pin spanners are made, they
given here without detailed explanation. If unfamiliar are rarely sturdy enough to remove a tight cone. A punch
with these items, see CHAINS (page 26-6) and REAR with a small pointed tip that will fit in one of the holes
DERAILLEURS (page 32-6). is the recommended tool. The cone is always a left-hand
20. If replacement freewheel with different number thread, so it must be turned clockwise to loosen it. Once
of teeth on largest or smallest cog has been
the cone is off, there will be all sorts of tiny ball bearings
installed:
[ ] Shift chain to outermost chainring and and small pieces of metal, called pawls, that can be seen.
then shift chain to outermost freewheel Once the freewheel has been pulled apart, these little
cog to check and correct chain length (see things are going to go all over the place, but don’t worry
CHAINS page 26-6). about it because a new freewheel will be installed.
[ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring. Check
whether chain hangs slack between top of Punch
freewheel and top chainrings or whether
chain touches itself or derailleur an extra time
between lower jockey wheel and bottom of
chainrings. Either condition indicates rear-
derailleur maximum total capacity has been
exceeded (see REAR DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
[ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring (if not
already). Shift rear derailleur to put chain on
and then off of innermost freewheel cog and
observe whether chain jams trying to go on
or off innermost freewheel cog. If chain jams
either way, maximum freewheel capacity of
rear derailleur has been exceeded (see REAR
DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
DIFFICULT FREEWHEEL
REMOVAL 25.15 Removing the freewheel cone.
Freewheels can be difficult to remove because the
2. [ ] Use punch to drive cone clockwise to loosen
freewheel fails, the tool fails, or the rim is no longer
it, then unthread completely.
attached to the hub. This section is actually three separate 3. [ ] Lift cogset and outer body of freewheel
procedures appropriate for each of these conditions. body off of inner body.
Notches stripped out where pronged 4. [ ] Remove pawls from inner body.
5. [ ] With wheel horizontal and freewheel on bot-
freewheel remover fits tom side, grasp inner body of freewheel in
If the wrong remover has been used or the remover vise jaws. Use recesses where pawls were
was not properly retained with the skewer or axle nuts, removed to get best grip.
25 – 12
4. [ ] Loose-ball hub only: Use LOOSE-BALL-HUB
SERVICE steps 55–83 (page 12-12) to install
axle and adjust bearings.
5. [ ] Cartridge-bearing hub only: Use appropriate
procedure for specific brand of hub from
Chapter 13 to reinstall axle.
Rim has been detached from hub
before freewheel has been broken loose
One of the worst bonehead mistakes a mechanic (or
customer) can make is to cut the spokes or unlace a wheel
before removing the freewheel from the hub. The leverage
of the rim is required for freewheel removal. If the wheel
is unlaced, but the spokes have not been cut, it is worth the
25.16 Grasp remaining piece of freewheel body (at trouble to rebuild the wheel with the old spokes and rim and
points indicated) in vise, then turn wheel counterclock-
wise to unthread freewheel.
then remove the freewheel, because the only alternatives
require sacrificing either the hub or the freewheel.
6. [ ] Turn wheel counterclockwise with both If the spokes are cut, decide whether to sacrifice the
hands to break loose and unthread hub from
hub or freewheel, then pick the appropriate step. If the
freewheel inner body.
7. [ ] Replace freewheel. hub has large-diameter flanges, there is one alternative
not shown in steps #1–#3; remove the cogs from the
Thin-wall splined remover blows up freewheel body, re-lace the hub and new rim together with
without breaking loose freewheel new spokes, then remove the freewheel if necessary.
Freewheels that require a thin-wall splined remover 1. If spokes are still in hub and not cut:
can be a problem if the remover fails before the freewheel [ ] Rebuild wheel.
breaks loose. Make sure the remover is fully engaged to prevent this [ ] Remove freewheel normally.
2. If saving hub and sacrificing freewheel:
from ever happening! Once it has happened with the remover
[ ] Use steps 1–4 under Notches stripped out
properly engaged, then more drastic measures need to be where pronged freewheel remover fits to disas-
taken. Heavy-duty removers with thick walls are made that semble freewheel (page 25-12).
never fail, but they require removal of the axle set to be [ ] Use grinder to grind conical flange off of
used, and that is a time-consuming inconvenience. inner body of freewheel to expose spoke
Some cartridge-bearing hubs with flanges on the axle holes in hub flange.
require freewheel removal before the axle can be removed. [ ] Rebuild wheel.
Unfortunately, the only solution is to sacrifice the free- [ ] Use steps 5–7 under Notches stripped out
wheel. In this case, just treat the freewheel as though it where pronged freewheel remover fits to complete
were one with damaged notches and disassemble the freewheel removal (page 25-12).
freewheel to remove it. Partially ground-off
freewheel-body cone
1. [ ] If hub has cartridge-bearing axle that
requires freewheel removal before axle can
be removed, the freewheel will have to be
destroyed. Use procedure under Notches
stripped out where pronged freewheel remover fits
(page 25-12).
2. [ ] Loose-ball hub only: Use LOOSE-BALL-HUB
SERVICE steps 17–20 to remove axle from
hub (page 12-8).
3. [ ] Use Bicycle Research CT2 (20.4mm
diameter, 20-spline hole) or Bicycle Research
CT6MB (21.9mm diameter, 12-spline hole)
to remove freewheel in normal way, except
without using quick-release skewer or axle
nut to retain remover.
25.17 Grind off the inner body cone as shown.
25 – 13
In the next step, the hub is held in the vise while the with all these problems, manufacturers generally make
freewheel is removed. It does no harm to initially grasp “maps” of their freewheels. Do not attempt customizing
the hub flanges as hard as possible without crushing them freewheels without a map or guide.
and then attempting the removal. If the freewheel removes
and the hub flanges are fine, then both are reusable. If
the hub slips and it must be clamped tighter, then noth- COG REMOVAL
1. [ ] Use steps 1–16 of WHEEL REMOVAL,
ing has been lost by trying removal without destroying
REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure
the hub first. (REMOVING A FRONT OR REAR WHEEL) to remove
3. If saving freewheel and sacrificing hub: wheel (page 18-6).
[ ] Attach freewheel remover to freewheel 2. [ ] Put wheel on floor and lean wheel against
and retain remover with quick-release legs with freewheel facing out.
skewer or axle nut. 3. [ ] Put one cog-removal tool on next-to-
[ ] Grasp hub shell firmly in vise, crushing innermost freewheel cog with long, free
flanges if necessary. piece of chain wrapped counterclockwise
[ ] Use large adjustable wrench to turn around cog and short, fixed piece of chain
remover counterclockwise to remove free- pinched between tool handle and cog.
wheel from hub.
THREADED-COG SERVICE
Cog removal for freewheels and non-lockring freehubs
is similar, because in both cases some cogs slip onto the
freewheel/freehub body with a spline configuration and
these are retained by outer position cog(s) that thread onto
the freewheel/freehub body. Freehubs of this design are
decades old and very rare. Most freehubs have the cogs
retained by a lockring and are covered in the CASSETTE
SERVICE section (page 25-15).
Depending on the specific model of freewheel or
freehub, there may be from one to four cogs that thread
on, and the remainder will be splined. If the cogs are very
dirty, it can be hard to see whether the one about to be
removed is threaded or splined. After removing the first 25.18 The correct setup for using the two cog-
threaded cog, always assume that the next one is splined removal tools to break loose the outermost cog.
and attempt to remove it by pulling out on it. If it will not 4. [ ] Rotate wheel as necessary to position cog-
pull off, then it is a threaded cog. removal tool so that it is parallel to floor and
It is very important to maintain the orientation of the on left side.
cog at all times while it is off. Most cogs can be installed fac- 5. [ ] Put second cog-removal tool on outermost
ing either way, but only one way is correct. The differences cog so that handle ends up parallel to floor,
may be very subtle and are not consistent enough from one with long, free piece of chain wrapped clock-
brand to the next to be worth mentioning here. wise around cog and short, fixed piece of
Cogs from one freewheel brand or model are almost chain pinched between tool handle and cog.
never interchangeable with another. It is even rare that Cogs can be very difficult to break free. In the next
cogs in one position on a freewheel are interchangeable step it is sometimes necessary to have a partner, each one
with cogs in another position on the same freewheel. This pressing with two hands on one tool.
6. [ ] Press down firmly on both cog-removal tools
means that if changing gear selection, a new cog generally
simultaneously to break loose outermost
must be installed in every position where you are chang- cog, then thread off outermost cog.
ing the number of teeth. Some spacers are made to work Remember: As cogs come off, it is very important
specially with one size of cog. For example, if removing to keep track of where spacers came from, which way
a 15-tooth cog in the second position and replacing it the cogs faced, and the order of the cogs. As cogs are
with a 14-tooth, it is likely that the spacer outward of the removed, check for spacers stuck to the back side of
second position will also need to be changed. To help
25 – 14
the cog just removed and to the front side of the next chain length and derailleur capacity are given here without
cog to be removed. detailed explanation. If unfamiliar with these items, see
7. [ ] Place cog on surface (outer-face up). CHAINS (page 26-6) and REAR DERAILLEURS (page 32-6).
8. [ ] Check for spacer on face of remaining out- 19. If replacement cogs of different sizes have
ermost cog and remove spacer (if any). Put been installed in the innermost or out-
spacer on surface (outer-face up). ermost position:
9. [ ] With fingers, pull outward on remaining [ ] Shift chain to outermost chainring and
outermost cog to check whether it is a then shift chain to outermost freewheel
slip-on cog or a thread-on cog. If cog slips cog to check and correct chain length (see
off, check if next cog is also a slip-on type. CHAINS page 26-6.)
Check for spacers between each cog pair. [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring. Check
Put all cogs and spacers on surface in order whether chain hangs slack between top of
(outer-faces up). freewheel and top chainrings or whether
10. [ ] Repeats steps 5–9 for each remaining chain touches itself or derailleur an extra time
thread-on-type cog, if any. between lower jockey wheel and bottom of
chainrings. Either condition indicates rear
COG REPLACEMENT derailleur maximum total capacity has been

exceeded (see REAR DERAILLEURS page 32-6.)
11. [ ] Substitute each cog to be replaced in lay- [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring (if not
out with its replacement cog, being sure already). Shift rear derailleur to put chain on
to put replacement cog in same position and then off of innermost freewheel cog and
(outer-faces up). observe whether chain jams trying to go on
12. [ ] Substitute each spacer to be replaced in or off innermost freewheel cog. If chain jams
layout with its replacement spacer, being either way, maximum freewheel capacity of
sure to put replacement spacer in same rear derailleur has been exceeded (see REAR
position (outer-faces up). DERAILLEURS page 32-6.)
COG INSTALLATION
13. [ ] One at a time and in order (starting with the
largest cog) put all slip-on cogs and spacers CASSETTE SERVICE
onto freewheel body (outer-faces up). Cassette cogs have a special configuration to facilitate
14. [ ] Lubricate threads on thread-on cogs. shifting under load. For this configuration to work, the
15. [ ] Install in order remaining spacers and thread- cogs need to be synchronized with each other. Conse-
on cogs (outer-faces up). quently, manufacturers design cassette cogs so that there
16. [ ] Put wheel on floor and lean wheel against is only one way that they can fit on the freehub body. The
legs with freewheel facing out. cassette and individual cogs engage the freehub body by
Although thread-on cogs are self-tightening when the means of splines. By making one spline asymmetric, the
bike is ridden, if they are not deliberately tightened in the manufacturer controls the orientation of all the cogs in
correct order, there can be problems the first time the bike the cassette to each other. Installing cassette cogs in the
is ridden after cog installation. For this reason, secure each cog correct orientation to each other is simple, but replacing
as best as possible as it is installed! individual cogs has a complication.
17. [ ] Put one cog-removal tool on innermost
The complication is that all cogs made by a manu-
thread-on cog with long, free piece of chain
wrapped counterclockwise around cog and
facturer with the same number of teeth may not be
short, fixed piece of chain pinched between interchangeable. The manufacturer uses code letters to
tool handle and cog, then rotate tool clock- indicate compatibility. For example, if a manufacturer
wise to secure cog as best as possible. Mov- makes a 12–21 cassette that has individual cogs coded
ing out one at a time, secure each additional “X,” then an individual replacement cog coded “Y” may
thread-on cog in a similar fashion. not be compatible. The information changes constantly,
18. [ ] Use steps 9–19 of WHEEL REMOVAL, so rely on the cassette-manufacturer’s tables to determine
REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure which code combinations may be compatible.
(REAR WHEELS) to install wheel (page 18-17). 1. [ ] Use steps 1–15 of WHEEL REMOVAL,
The next step is needed only if the size of the out- REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure
ermost and/or innermost cogs has changed. These changes (REMOVING A FRONT OR REAR WHEEL) to remove
can affect chain length and derailleur capacity. The tests for wheel (page 18-6).
25 – 15
Cassette-lockring tools for different brands of cas- simply to remove the pins on one face. The Stein versions
settes closely resemble each other and also resemble the of this tool use bolt heads for pins, so the bolt can simply
most popular splined-freewheel remover, but they are not be removed. Other brands have pins that are riveted or
interchangeable! Use the CASSETTE-LOCKRING REMOVERS sec- welded in place. For these, the pins on one face must be
tion of table 25-1 (page 25-7) to check tool compatibility. ground off with a grinder.
Reliance on visual similarities or “if it installs, it must fit” 4. [ ] Chain-type only: With wheel horizontal (cog-
thinking is an easy way to create problems, not solutions! side down), grasp wrench flats of lockring
2. [ ] Remove skewer and install lockring tool into tool securely in vise jaws.
splines of cog-retaining lockring. Fixed-type only: With vise open just enough
Even with a properly fit tool, engagement is poor for to fit lockring tool, place cog wrench flat on
the forces involved. Be sure that the tool is fully engaged vise (engagement-face up), then place wheel
and firmly secured with the quick-release skewer. on top of cog wrench so that locking tool is
3. [ ] Install skewer and thread adjusting nut until inside vise jaws and cog engages cog wrench.
tight to secure lockring tool in place. Secure vise onto flats of lockring tool.
5. [ ] Chain-type only: Put cog wrench on next-to-
There are three methods that might be used for
outermost cog with long, free piece of chain
removing the lockring. The most effective methods, of wrapped clockwise (viewed from above)
which there are two, rely on using one tool secured in around cog and short, fixed piece of chain
a sturdy bench vise and another tool turned by hand pinched between tool handle and cog.
(with one or two hands, as needed). The less-effective 1 – Place lockring remover in vise,
third method does not utilize a bench vise but instead then wheel on lockring remover
requires the mechanic to use one hand for each tool,
with the wheel loose on the bench top or on the floor
leaning against something. The following procedure
shows both variations that utilize a bench vise and
leaves the less-effective method to the imagination.
The two effective methods are different because there
are two styles of tools made for turning the cassette (the Cog wrench
tool attached to the lockring remains stationary in the
bench vise). The tools that turn the cassette are essentially
wrenches, although neither variety looks like a wrench.
One variety, frequently called a chain whip, uses a chain
attached to a lever to hold onto and turn the cassette. This
is a clumsy but universal tool. In this manual, it is called
a chain-type cassette wrench. The second type of tool uses
pins on its face or a gear-shaped cutout to engage the
cassette cog. This type of tool is much less clumsy, but 3 – Turn cog wrench
it is cog-size specific (2–4 tools required, depending on counterclockwise
tool brand). In this manual, this type of tool is called a
fixed-type cassette wrench. When variations in procedure
are needed for these two different tools, they are labeled
chain-type only or fixed-type only.
The cutout variety of fixed-type cog wrench is ready
for use as described in the following procedure. The pin
variety of fixed-type cog wrench generally requires modifi- 2 – Place chain-type cog wrench
cation to use as described in the following procedure. Most on second-lowest cog in this fashion
pin-type tools have pins on both faces of the wrench, so 25.19 This is a side view and top view of the proper
that one tool fits more cog sizes. Unfortunately, the great setup for breaking loose a cog-retaining lockring. The top
advantage of this type of tool cannot be realized unless view (at bottom) portrays the hub, cogs, and spokes in a
see-through fashion with dashed lines so that you can see
on face has pins and the other is flat. Therefore, the tools the proper orientation of the chain-type cog wrench.
need a simple modification. Where these tools are listed in
table 25-1, it is indicated that two of each are needed for the The lockring’s back face is deeply serrated, and the
purpose of making this modification. The modification is face of what it tightens against is also deeply serrated. It
25 – 16
will make a loud snapping or crackling sound when it is Older Campagnolo cassettes had eight uniform
being broken loose. This is alarming but normal. splines, and the only way to insure correct orientation
6. [ ] Apply force to cog wrench in counter- is by lining up orientation marks. Two types of orienta-
clockwise direction (viewed from above) to tions marks are used. One type of mark is a triangle or
break loose cog and continue rotating tool diamond shape on the outer face of each cog. Triangles
just until clicking noise stops. NOTE: Do and diamonds should line up in a straight line. The other
not hold wheel!
marking system is circles on the face of each cog. When
7. [ ] Remove wheel from vise and remove skewer
from wheel. all cogs are correctly oriented, the circles on the face of
8. [ ] Facing cogset, turn lockring tool to remove each cog are aligned on a spiral line radiating clockwise
ring completely. from the innermost cog to the outermost cog.
9. [ ] Slip off cogs and spacers, placing them in Spacers vary by thickness and diameter. There are
order on surface (outer-faces up). few absolute rules, but in general, cog spacing should end
Some cassette cogs come off one at a time and others up fairly uniform, with slightly wider spacing at the outer
remove and install as a group, which may be held together end of the cassette. If spacer diameters vary, smaller-
by three bolts or rivets. The only reason they are grouped diameter spacers are generally found at the outer end of
is to make factory installation quicker and easier. If not the cassette. Some Shimano spacers have cutouts to clear
replacing individual cogs, there is no reason to separate the bolts or rivets that keep the spacer from sitting off
the group. If replacing individual cogs, then separate the the cog face, so make sure such cutouts correspond with
group but do not worry about reinstalling the bolts or the locations of any cassette bolts or rivets. If the spacers
rivets. To get the rivets out, grind or file off the head of have tabs sticking out from one face, make sure that the
each rivet and drive it out with a punch or nail. tabs all face outward.
10. [ ] If replacing individual cogs and cogs came Many manufacturers make freehub bodies with the
off as a cassette, unthread bolts from back Shimano-pattern spline, and it is even an option on some
of cogset to separate cogs and place them Campagnolo wheels. The quick way to identify the spline
in order on surface (outer-faces up). pattern is to count the splines on the cogs and the grooves
on the freehub body. Campagnolo-pattern cassettes and
COG REPLACEMENT freehub bodies have even-numbered (4 or 8) spline or
11. [ ] Substitute each cog to be replaced in layout groove counts. Shimano-pattern cassettes and freehub
with its replacement cog, being sure to put bodies have odd-numbered (9 or 17) spline or groove
replacement cog in same position and with counts. The reason that there are two counts for each is
same side facing up. that the freehub body may have extra grooves (for weight
12. [ ] Substitute each spacer to be replaced in lay- reduction) that don’t engage any splines on the cassette.
out with its replacement spacer, being sure The number of grooves that actually engage splines on
to put replacement spacer in same position
the cassette always matches the number of splines.
and with same side facing up.
COG INSTALLATION
All the cogs have an asymmetric spline that engages Wide Notched
an asymmetric groove in the freehub body, so if a cog is spline spline
rotated or facing the wrong way it will simply not go on.
The asymmetric spline on Shimano-pattern cassettes is Shimano Campagnolo
wider than all the others and is off center to the adjacent
splines (see figure 25.20). The freehub body has a corre-
sponding wide, off-center groove. The asymmetric spline
25.20 Shimano pattern and Campagnolo pattern
on Campagnolo-pattern cassette cogs is notched on one cassette-cog splines. The grooves in the freehub body
corner so that the tip of the spline is about half the width correspond to the splines.
of the base of the spline (see figure 25.20). The freehub 13. [ ] Use grease or anti-seize compound to coat
body has a corresponding groove that is half the width at surface of freehub body.
the bottom of the groove than it is at the top of the groove. 14. [ ] One at a time and in order, starting with
Campagnolo cogs may also have triangular alignment marks the largest cog, put all cogs and spacers
on the faces of the cogs to assist in achieving the correct onto freehub body, making sure odd splines
orientation (triangles in line with each other). engage odd groove in freehub body.
25 – 17
15. [ ] Lubricate threads on lockring and thread into 22. If replacement cogs of different sizes have
freehub body. been installed in the innermost or out-
16. [ ] Install skewer (no springs) into left end of ermost position:
axle and place wheel drive-side up on bench. [ ] Shift chain to outermost chainring and
17. [ ] Install lockring tool into lockring and install nut then shift chain to outermost freewheel
on skewer (no spring) to retain lockring tool. cog to check and correct chain length (see
In the next step, tighten the lockring. When the lockring CHAINS page 26-6).
was removed, the lockring tool was held in the vise. The [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring.
same thing could be done for installation, but the potential Check whether chain hangs slack between
to over-tighten the lockring is great. A torque wrench pre- top of freewheel and top chainrings or
whether chain touches itself or derailleur
vents this, but using a torque wrench in this application is
an extra time between lower jockey wheel
problematic. Due to the serrations between the lockring and bottom of chainrings. Either condition
and the outer cog, it is impossible to get a torque reading indicates maximum total capacity of rear
with a beam-type torque wrench. A preset-type torque derailleur has been exceeded (see REAR
wrench does work, but the jumping that is caused when DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
the serrations skip over each other may make it difficult [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring (if not
to detect the head swivel that indicates the correct torque already). Shift rear derailleur to put chain on
has been achieved. Fortunately the manufacturers’ recom- and then off of innermost freewheel cog and
mended torque ranges are broad, and there is a technique observe whether chain jams trying to go on
that assures a reasonable torque is achieved that does not or off innermost freewheel cog. If chain jams
either way, maximum freewheel capacity of
rely on the torque wrench.
rear derailleur has been exceeded (see REAR
The Park lockring tools are the preferred choice DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
because the tools have a 1" hex fitting that is fit by a com-
monly available, extra-deep 1" socket. If a torque wrench
is not being used, the brand of lockring tool is not as
important since an adjustable wrench (or several different
bicycle-specific tools) can be used on the lockring tool.
FREEHUB-BODY SERVICE
This section only applies to replacing the freehub
18. [ ] By hand (no leverage tool), tighten lockring
body on a Shimano or SunTour loose-ball freehub. Vari-
tool as tight as is reasonably possible.
19. [ ] Using torque wrench or other leverage tool, ous Campagnolo hubs are covered in chapter 12 (see
tighten lockring to manufacturer’s recom- page 12-18). Cartridge-bearing freehubs are covered in
mended torque. NOTE: Acceptable torque chapter 13 (see page 13-1). The only time it is necessary
should always be achieved within a few to remove a freehub body is when replacing it. However,
degrees of a quarter turn from the hand-tight it is easier to clean the hub during a hub overhaul and
setting made in step 18! easier to clean the freehub body when the freehub body is
Campagnolo lockrings: 445in-lbs removed, but it is not mandatory to remove the freehub
Shimano lockrings: 260–435in-lbs body for either of these purposes.
20. [ ] Remove skewer and lockring tool, then rein- 1. [ ] Use steps 1–15 of WHEEL REMOVAL,
stall skewer. REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure
21. [ ] Use steps 9–19 of WHEEL REMOVAL, (REMOVING A FRONT OR REAR WHEEL) to remove
REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure wheel (page 18-6).
(REAR WHEELS) to install wheel (page 18-17). 2. [ ] Loose-ball hub only: Use LOOSE-BALL-HUB
The next step is needed only if the size of the out- SERVICE steps 17–20 to remove axle from
ermost and/or innermost cogs has changed. These changes hub (page 12-8).
can affect chain length and derailleur capacity. The tests for These instructions cover only the specific brands
chain length and derailleur capacity are given here without and models of freehubs indicated. Other brands exist
detailed explanation. If unfamiliar with these items, see but are far less common. The methods to remove
CHAINS (page 26-6) and REAR DERAILLEURS (page 32-6). freehub bodies from other brands may be completely
different, especially if the other brand has cartridge
bearings. This section specifically does not cover Ringlè,
Hügi, Chris King, or Mavic freehubs.
25 – 18
FREEHUB-BODY REMOVAL the freehub body is held on by a separate bolt, it is very

important to tighten the bolt adequately. Loose bolts will
3. [ ] Shimano (except Dura-Ace 6/7/8 speed):
Insert 10mm hex bit (or hex key) into freehub loosen further, causing the cogs to wobble and ultimately
body and rotate counterclockwise to release leading to the rear wheel locking up.
freehub. A hollow bolt will come out and 10. Shimano (except Dura-Ace 6/7/8 speed):
freehub body will slip off. [ ] Slip freehub body onto hub-shell splines.
4. [ ] Shimano Dura-Ace 6/7/8 speed: Insert TL- [ ] Lubricate hollow-bolt threads and thread
FH10 into freehub body and rotate counter- through freehub body and into hub shell.
clockwise to release freehub. [ ] Use 10mm hex-bit to tighten bolt to
5. [ ] SunTour brand: Insert 10mm or 11mm hex 310in-lbs.
bit (or hex key) through left side of hub 11. Shimano Dura-Ace 6/7/8 speed:
shell and turn wrench counterclockwise to [ ] Thread freehub body into hub shell.
unthread retaining bolt. Freehub body will [ ] Use TL-FH10 to snug freehub body; ped-
slip off right side. aling torque will tighten freehub body fully.
12. SunTour brand:
[ ] Slip freehub body onto hub-shell splines.
FREEHUB-BODY [ ] Lubricate hollow-bolt threads and thread
through hub shell and into freehub body.
CLEANING AND OILING [ ] Use hex bit or hex key to tighten bolt to
Skip to FREEHUB-BODY INSTALLATION (below) if 310in-lbs (52lbs@6").
installing a new freehub body.
There is often a rubber seal in the back face of
Shimano freehub bodies. It can be hard to see. It needs HUB ASSEMBLY
to be removed so that solvent, air, and oil can get into the AND WHEEL INSTALLATION
freehub body. Once found, it can be pried out with a pin 13. [ ] Loose-ball hub only: Use LOOSE-BALL-HUB
or needle. Be sure to get it back in before installing the SERVICE steps 55–83 (page 12-12) to install
freehub body on the hub shell. axle and adjust bearings.
6. [ ] Remove any rubber seal ring (noting ori- 14. [ ] Use steps 9–19 of WHEEL REMOVAL,
entation) from back face of freehub body, REPLACEMENT, AND REINSTALLATION procedure
submerge freehub body in solvent, and let it (REAR WHEELS) to install wheel (page 18-17).
soak for as much time as is available. 15. If replacement cogs of different sizes have
7. [ ] With freehub body still submerged, rotate been installed in the innermost or outermost
freehub-body-mechanism inner body back position:
and forth to agitate solvent and break loose [ ] Shift chain to outermost chainring and
dirt inside freehub body, or use Morningstar then shift chain to outermost freewheel
Freehub Buddy to inject solvent through body. cog to check and correct chain length (see
NOTE: Freehub Buddy requires removal of CHAINS page 26-6).
dustcap in outer face of freehub body, which [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring.
usually destroys dustcap. Morningstar makes Check whether chain hangs slack between
replacement dustcaps for popular models that top of freewheel and top chainrings or
are reusable. whether chain touches itself or derailleur
8. [ ] Use Park GSC-1 to scrub outside of free- an extra time between lower jockey wheel
hub body, cleaning cog teeth (if still and bottom of chainrings. Either condition
installed) and inner and outer faces of free- indicates maximum total capacity of rear
hub body thoroughly. derailleur has been exceeded (see REAR
9. [ ] Dry freehub body thoroughly, then squirt DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
small amount of oil into crack between inner [ ] Shift chain to innermost chainring (if not
body and outer body, both on outer and already). Shift rear derailleur to put chain
inner face of freehub body. Replace rubber on and then off of innermost freewheel
seal ring, if any. cog and observe whether chain jams trying
to go on or off innermost freewheel cog.
If chain jams either way, maximum free-
FREEHUB-BODY INSTALLATION wheel capacity of rear derailleur has been
When a separate bolt is used to hold a freehub body exceeded (see REAR DERAILLEURS page 32-6).
in place, unlike a regular freewheel, riding the bike will
not tighten the body to the hub shell. For this reason, if
25 – 19
CASSETTE COMPATIBILITY (see page 26-2). Shift performance issues as a result of

brand and model compatibility are addressed in the TEST-
As previously covered in this chapter, there are two ING INDEX PERFORMANCE section of the rear derailleur
primary cassette-spline patterns that do not interchange chapter (page 32-19).
(see COG INSTALLATION page 25-17). SunRace and SRAM Derailleur control: All indexing derailleur controls
are two major companies that make Shimano-pattern cas- are gear-count specific, so any change in the number of
settes and there are other less-widely available brands that gears requires a change of the derailleur control.
are Shimano compatible, as well. An additional factor of Rear derailleur: Rear derailleurs may not be upward
compatibility that is covered in another part of this chapter compatible, but they are always backward compatible.
is that individual cogs are designed as parts of sets, so Consequently when increasing the number of cogs, the
matching tooth count and matching spline pattern are not derailleur probably must be changed, but when reducing
the sole determining components of interchangeability the number of cogs it almost never needs to be changed.
(see COG INSTALLATION page 25-17). If cogs do not have There is no simple way to predict whether the rear derail-
compatible codes, shifting will still be acceptable when leur will still work when the cog count is increased, but
done in unloaded conditions, but the capacity for shifting there is a reliable test that can be performed to determine
smoothly under load will be lost. if there is a shift-performance loss resulting from not
In addition to these two considerations, the number changing the derailleur. This test is described in the TEST-
of cogs in the cassette must be accounted for, and in some ING INDEX PERFORMANCE section of the rear derailleur
cases the size of the cassette lockring is a factor. chapter (page 32-19).
Number of cogs Lockring sizes
There may be anywhere from 6–10 cogs on the cas- When the outermost cog has 12 teeth or more, the
sette. When changing the number of cogs a new freehub size of the cassette lockring is not a factor. However,
body may be needed, a spacer may need to be added or when changing to a cassette with an outermost cog size
removed behind the cassette, the chain may need to be of 11 teeth, the existing lockring may not be compat-
changed, the derailleur control almost certainly needs ible. For an 11-tooth cog, the diameter of the lockring
to be changed, and it is possible the rear derailleur will must be approximately 35mm (varies by a few tenths
need to be changed. of a millimeter between brands). Some lockrings used
Freehub body: In most cases, if the number of cogs on cassettes with 12-, 13-, or 14-tooth outer cogs are
is being increased, a new freehub body is required. One approximately 38–39mm diameter, which is not compat-
exception is when the existing freehub body was originally ible with an 11-tooth cog.
made for the new cog count, but a spacer was put behind
the cassette to make the current cog count work. Typi-
cally, these spacers are found on a freehub body designed
to work with one cog more than the current setup. If
a spacer approximately 3–5mm thick is located behind
the cassette, a cassette with one more cog can usually be
installed on that freehub body by removing the spacer.
Certain freehub bodies are made to work with two cog
counts without changing needing a spacer change. For
example, some Shimano 8-speed and 9-speed freehub
bodies work interchangeably (particularly if the 9-speed
cassette has a smallest cog of 12 teeth). Campagnolo
freehub bodies are for 9-speed and 10-speed cassettes
but require a spacer.
Cassette spacer: A variety of 3.5–5mm spacers are
made for the purpose of installing 7-speed cassettes on
8-speed freehub bodies or 9-speed cassettes on 10-speed
freehub bodies.
Chain: Cassettes with six, seven, or eight cogs accept
all modern chains in regard to width compatibility. Cas-
settes with nine cogs require a nine-speed or ten-speed
chain, and cassettes with ten cogs require a ten-speed chain
25 – 20
FREEWHEEL AND FREEHUB TROUBLESHOOTING (table 25-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Chain slips or skips on a cog when pedaling hard.
Fresh chain not meshing with worn cog. Replace cog or cogs.
Pawls are not catching on internal ratchet ring Clean and oil freewheel/freehub body and replace
because they are dirty, rusty, worn, or broken. if symptom persists.
SYMPTOM: Freewheeling occurs while pedaling, constantly or intermittently.
SYMPTOM: While coasting, the cogs continue to turn with the wheel, pushing the chain.
Pawls are not riding over teeth of internal ratchet Clean and oil freewheel/freehub body and replace
ring because they are dirty, rusty, fouled with if symptom persists.
grease, worn, or broken.
SYMPTOM: A steady, light clunking sound comes from the freewheel in some gears more than others
and at some pedaling speeds but not others.
Freewheel-bearing adjustment is loose because Turn cone ring on face of freewheel counterclock-
cone has come loose. wise to secure it.
Freewheel-bearing adjustment too loose because Check for loose cone. If tight, replace freewheel.
bearing parts are worn.
SYMPTOM: The cogs appear to wobble side to side while coasting.
Normal occurrence due to lack of precision in bearings. Ignore it.
SYMPTOM: The cogs appear to wobble side to side while pedaling, and the derailleur cannot be
adjusted to eliminate cyclic rubbing of the chain against adjacent cog(s).
Spoke guard has oversize hole and is off center. See if wobble goes away when spoke guard is
removed, and if it does, replace spoke guard.
Freewheel is cross-threaded onto hub. Remove freewheel and check threads on hub. Hub
will probably need to be replaced.
If spoke guard and cross-threading are not the Try substitute freewheel to determine whether hub
cause, hub-threading or freewheel-threading are or freewheel threads are bad and try to get war-
defective. ranty satisfaction for bad part.
SYMPTOM: Cog teeth are broken.
Teeth are extremely worn and are being ripped off Check cogs for wear and replace cogs or freewheel.
by chain when pedaling load is high.
Extreme abusive shifting under load or impact to Avoid abusive behavior.
teeth.
SYMPTOM: Cog teeth appear to be bent or not in line with each other.
Normal condition for Hyperglide/IG teeth. Ignore.
Teeth bent from impact. Avoid abusive behavior.
SYMPTOM: No matter how the rear derailleur is positioned, the chain seems to rub against the adja-
cent cog(s).
If happening on most cogs, particularly if after Use appropriate chain.
replacing chain or freewheel, wide chain is being
used with narrow-spaced freewheel.
If happening on one cog only, particularly if cogs Check and replace spacers.
where removed and installed, improper spacer
between cogs.
If happening in outer positions only, chainline is poor. See CHAINLINE chapter to identify error (page 27-6)
and correct chainline error (page 27-8).
25 – 21
26 – CHAINS
One link
Inner plates
Rollers
Rivets (pins)
Outer plates
Outside
width
Pitch Inside
width
26 – CHAINS
CHAIN DIMENSIONS AND TYPES 26 – 2
CHAIN COMPATIBILITY 26 – 5
DERAILLEUR CHAINS 26 – 6
PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTIONS 26 – 6
CHAIN REMOVAL 26 – 7
CHAIN CLEANING 26 – 8
CHAIN LUBRICATION 26 – 9
CHAIN INSTALLATION 26 – 10
CHAIN SIZING 26 – 11
REUSABLE RIVET INSTALLATION 26 – 11
SHIMANO CHAINS 26 – 12
DERAILLEUR-CHAIN MASTER LINKS 26 – 13
CHAIN INSPECTION 26 – 15
NON-DERAILLEUR CHAINS 26 – 15
MASTER LINKS 26 – 15
TANDEM TRANSFER CHAINS 26 – 16
CHAIN TENSION 26 – 17
CHAIN TROUBLESHOOTING 26 – 17
26 – CHAINS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER the manufacturers of HG-compatible chains to define

that compatibility. There is no guarantee that a chain
This chapter is about removing, replacing,
called HG-compatible will perform in the same way as
installing, cleaning, and lubricating chains. Bikes with-
a Shimano HG chain.
out derailleurs typically have chains with master links.
Hyperglide-compatible chain tool: The term
Master links are covered in a separate section, as well
“Hyperglide-compatible” is also used in regard to chain
as information about sizing and tensioning chains on
tools. The Shimano HG chains have special shaping to
non-derailleur bicycles.
the side-plates and unusually tight rivets that put special
demands on a chain tool. Once again, Shimano does not
provide any standards to other manufacturers in this area,
GENERAL INFORMATION so the term HG-compatible does not guarantee proper
results. The fact that a tool is described as HG-compatible
never makes it less suitable for non-HG chains and often
TERMINOLOGY makes it a better choice for a non-HG chain.
Bushings: Not all chains have bushings. Bushings Interglide (IG) chain: The latest descendant to
are metal cylinders that are inside the rollers and cannot the Shimano Hyperglide chain. All information about
be seen when the chain is assembled. Normally there is HG chains with regard to tools and rivet techniques also
no need to be concerned with whether a chain has bush- applies to IG chains.
ings or not. Link: The smallest complete section of chain. It
Chain stretch: As chains are used, they become lon- consists of two outer side-plates, two inner side-plates,
ger. This is often called stretch, which is a misnomer because two rollers, and two rivets. If a unit with only two inner
nothing actually stretches. The reason that chains become side-plates was removed or added (one roller and one rivet),
longer is that wear occurs between the rollers and the bush- then the chain would be left with both ends ending in outer
ing or rivet inside the roller. This wear creates slop or free side-plates, which cannot be joined together. A full link,
play between the various parts of the chain, which makes the including four side-plates, has an effective length of one
chain longer. More important than the change in length is the inch, measured from the center of the rivet at one end to
fact that the distance from roller to roller increases minutely the center of the rivet hole at the other end.
from the original half inch, which means that the chain will One link
not mesh well with the gear teeth, which are spaced at half-
inch intervals. As a consequence of this wear, the chain also
develops more lateral flexibility, which affects its shifting Inner plates
performance long before the poor mating to the gear teeth
becomes an issue.
Half-link: A section of chain including only two Rollers
side-plates.
Hyperglide-compatible chain: Shimano makes
freehubs and freewheels that are called Hyperglide
(HG). These have a special configuration to the teeth
that make it possible for the chain to simultaneously
Rivets (pins)
engage two cogs when being shifted. Non-HG systems
work by the chain disengaging one cog before engaging
the next. When HG-compatible is used with regard to Outer plates
a chain, it implies that the shaping and strength of the
chain are suitable for use with an HG cog set. Shimano
does not provide other manufacturers with any standards
for what makes a chain HG compatible, so it is up to
26.1 These are the parts of the chain.
Outside
width
26 – 1
Pitch Inside
Outer plates
26 – CHAINS
Peened: When a rivet is installed at the factory, the
ends of it are deformed so that they become fatter and Outside
will not pass through the hole in the outer side-plate as width
easily. Sometimes this deformation is created by striking
the pin at two points with a chisel-like tool. This is called Pitch Inside
width
double peened. When a rivet is double peened, the end of
it will have two parallel grooves in it. A rivet can also be
fully peened. A fully peened rivet has been deformed all the
way around its perimeter. This may be visually apparent
if it has been done in a crude fashion, but it may not be 26.3 Chain dimensions.
obvious. If a rivet does not appear to be double peened,
then assume it is fully peened. The 1/2" × 3/32" derailleur-bike chains vary in out-
Double-peened Fully-peened
side width. These outside widths fall into four categories
that are named by the maximum number of gears on the
cassette that the chain fits: 6-speed chains, 8-speed chains,
9-speed chains, and 10-speed chains.
6-speed chains
26.2 The left rivet is the end of a double-peened rivet. These chains were designed to fit cassettes and free-
The right one is fully peened.
wheels with five or six gears. The outside width is a mini-
Rivets: The round metal rods that protrude just mum of 7.6mm but is generally wider than 8mm. These
beyond the face of the outer side-plates. Each roller chains are virtually unused today, except on older bikes with
goes through an outer side-plate, an inner side-plate, the an original chain. These chains can be replaced with 8-speed
roller, another inner side-plate, and another outer side- and 9-speed chains without having any fit issues.
plate (see figure 26.1, page 26-1). The rivets are what hold
the chain together. They work by friction and are jammed
8-speed chains
These chains fit cassettes and freewheels with up to
into undersized holes in each outer side-plate but slip easily
eight gears. The outside width is 7.2mm to 7.4mm but
through the inner side-plates and the roller.
7.2mm is the preferred width to use with 8-speed cassettes.
Rollers: The metal cylinders that are between the
Chains with a width of 7.3–7.4mm may be slightly noisier on
inner side-plates (see figure 26.1, page 26-1).
an 8-speed cassette than a 7.2mm-wide chain on an 8-speed
Side-plates: The usually dog-bone-shaped plates that
cassette. Regarding fit, 8-speed chains are compatible with
are seen when looking at the chain from the side (see figure
freewheels or cassettes with five, six, or seven gears.
26.1, page 26-1). Side-plates come in two versions on every
chain: inner side-plates and outer side-plates. The outer 9-speed chains
side-plates are the ones that are seen in their entirety when Nine-speed chains have an outside width of 6.6–
viewing the chain from the side. The inner side-plates are 6.8mm. A 9-speed chain is required on a 9-speed cassette.
the ones hidden partially by the outer side-plates. They can be used on cog sets of five, six, seven, or eight
gears just as well, but the front shifting performance may
be compromised if the front chainrings and the front
CHAIN DIMENSIONS AND TYPES derailleur are not 9-speed specific.
There are two common types of chains: 1/2" × 3/32"
(derailleur bikes) and 1/2" × 1/8" (non-derailleur 10-speed chains
bikes). A bike must use a 1/2" × 1/8" chain if the Ten-speed chains have an outside width of 5.6–
teeth on either the front or rear gears are wider than 5.7mm. They are required on 10-speed cog sets. They
2.6mm (usually approximately 2.7mm). All bikes with could be used on cog sets of five, six, seven, eight, or
coaster brakes, most bikes with internally geared hubs, nine gears just as well, but the front shifting performance
some BMX bikes with freewheels, and some track bikes may be compromised if the front chainrings and the front
require the 1/2" × 1/8" size. derailleur are not 10-speed specific.
These numbers that name the chain size (for example, BMX freestyle chains
1/2" × 3/32") refer to the pitch of the chain and the inside BMX freestyle bikes may be equipped with one of
width. See figure 26.3 to determine the parts of the chain two different non-bicycle chain sizes. The more common
to which these dimensions apply. freestyle-specific size is 1/2" × 3/16", and a 1/2" × 1/4"
size is seen, as well.
26 – 2
26 – CHAINS
PREREQUISITES rear of the drive train, and the pedals jump forward and
catch again. This symptom is strictly experienced when
There are no prerequisites to chain removal,
there is high load on the chain. What is actually happening
replacement, installation, or service.
is that as the chain feeds onto the bottom of a rear cog, a
roller sits on top of a tooth instead of between the teeth.
INDICATIONS When this roller reaches the top of the cog, the load on the
chain forces the roller on top of the tooth to drop down
Maintenance cycles between the teeth, so the chain suddenly jumps forward
There are two types of maintenance that need a quarter inch or so. This makes a loud noise. Depending
to be performed on chains. The first is cleaning and on the size of the chainring that the chain is on when this
lubricating. Chain cleaning should be performed when- occurs, the pedals will seem to slip forward an inch or two
ever the chain is obviously dirty. Differences in riding and then catch again.
conditions make it impossible to put a time or mile
value on this need. It could even be after every ride. Symptoms indicating need of lubrication
This is especially true of mountain-bike chains. Lubri- Chirping or squeaking sounds may come from the
cating should be done whenever the chain is cleaned chain while pedaling. This is a sure sign that the chain
or whenever it develops a chirping or squeaking noise is overdue for lubrication. Initially the sounds may be
and is not dirty. On the other hand, routine chain oil- intermittent, occurring at an interval that takes more than
ing can lead to a chain getting dirty faster, so only oil one crank revolution to reoccur. This is because the link
when there is need. that needs lubrication is most likely to make noise as it
The second type of maintenance is routine checking passes through the rear derailleur. When the chain has
for excessive chain wear. Waiting for symptoms to develop just been cleaned and oiled and this symptom occurs, it
will lead to increased wear of expensive rear cogs and indicates that there is still solvent in one or more of the
chainrings. Replacing chains before they get worn out is links that is displacing the lubricant or that the chain was
more economical than getting full life out of them and not completely lubricated.
prevents problems with shifting performance. Check chain Symptoms indicating need of cleaning
wear every 500 miles on road bikes and every 100 miles New chains (and chains on new bikes) are coated with
on off-road bikes. a rust-preventive compound that is usually a less-than-ideal
On a new bike, it is important to make a simple chain lubricant. The stickiness of this compound makes
inspection to determine whether all the rivets are cor- it inclined to collect dirt. Cleaning and lubricating new
rectly installed. It is not unusual for the factory to fail to chains or chains on new bikes will maximize chain life,
install a rivet completely, which eventually leads to the but whether the time spent cleaning would be considered
chain breaking. Look on both faces of the chain for any cost effective is another matter.
rivet protruding significantly more than the others. A dirty chain will cause an advanced rate of wear, so do
New chains (and chains on new bikes) are coated with not wait for a symptom to lead to cleaning a chain. A dirty
a rust-preventive compound that is usually a less-than-ideal chain will develop tight links, will shift poorly, and contrib-
chain lubricant. The stickiness of this compound makes it utes to “chain suck,” a condition where the chain remains
inclined to collect dirt. To maximize chain life, clean and stuck to the small chainring and jams into the chain stay.
lubricate new chains or chains on new bikes immediately. This
cleaning time might be difficult to cost-justify, in which case Symptoms indicating a tight link
it should turn into a recommendation to the customer. A tight link is a link that does not pivot freely and mani-
fests itself as a clunk that occurs once per chain revolution.
Symptoms indicating worn chain With the bike in the stand, pedal backward slowly, then look
Poor shifting can result from a worn or dirty chain. If for a link holding its bend at the point the chain comes out
after performing all possible derailleur service and clean- of the rear derailleur (see figure 26.4, page 26-4). This could
ing the chain, the shifting is still not as good as when the be caused by three things: 1) If only one tight link develops
chain was new, wear is probably significant. immediately after installing a chain, it means that the four
When a chain wears too much, the distance from roller side-plates where the rivet was pressed in are tightly com-
to roller increases to the point that the chain and gear teeth pressed against each other, and the symptom will go away
do not fit together properly. Chain wear is usually detected once a tight-link-elimination procedure is performed; 2) dirt
when installing a new freewheel or cog(s) while keeping can cause a tight link, and the only solution will be to clean
a used chain or installing a new chain on worn cogs. In the chain; 3) lack of lubrication or rust can cause a tight link.
these situations, a loud metallic “clunk” is heard from the
26 – 3
26 – CHAINS
If rust is the cause, try adding oil. If this solves the problem, usually are caused by the chain jamming somewhere when
fine. If rust is present and oiling does not eliminate the tight there is a mis-shift (chain comes off gears).
link, then the chain needs to be replaced.
26.6 This chain is twisted.
Derailleur removal and installation

It is optional to remove and reinstall the chain when
installing or removing either derailleur. The cage of either
derailleur can be opened instead of separating the chain.
Freewheel or cog replacement
It is a good idea to replace an even moderately worn
chain whenever installing new rear cogs. A worn chain
greatly accelerates the wear on the cog teeth.
Tight link
TOOL CHOICES
The design or brand of chain will determine the tools
needed. Table 26-1 (page 26-5) covers all the tools for the
job. The preferred choices are in bold. A tool is preferred
26.4 Pedal backward and watch the lower pulley because of a balance among ease of use, quality, versatility,
wheel to detect a tight link. As the tight link goes by and economy. When more than one tool for one function
each pulley wheel, it may cause the derailleur cage to is bold, it means that several tools are required for different
jump a little. If you stop pedaling right away, the tight
link should be visible just in front of the lower pulley.
configurations of parts.
Shimano chains have a design that is very demanding
Symptoms indicating damaged chain or on the chain tool. If the wrong tool is used, then the chain
or the tool is likely to be damaged. The damage to the chain
protruding rivet may be subtle and could result in a mysterious chain break at
A clunk or click may come from a chain at regular inter-
a later time. Several tool manufacturers make “HG-compat-
vals, less than once per crank revolution. If this symptom is
ible” chain tools, but none of these tools works as well as the
not caused by a tight link, then it could be caused by twisted
Shimano tool designed for the job (and most are completely
side-plates or a protruding rivet. First, inspect both faces of
unacceptable). The Shimano chain tool that is recommended
the chain for a rivet protruding farther than the others.
in the list is very expensive by chain-tool standards but has
Protruding rivet
proven to work well on virtually all chains, is durable, and is a
pleasure to work with. Despite information that might be seen
in print elsewhere, it is perfectly suitable for non-HG chains.
Few mechanics that have used the Shimano TL-CN31 in the
shop have ever considered it not to be worth the money.
Look for poor engagement

TIME AND DIFFICULTY
26.5 When a rivet is installed inadequately, the pro- Chain removal and installation
trusion at one end is more obvious, but the less obvi- Chain removal and installation is a 3–5 minute job
ous poor engagement at the other end is what leads of little difficulty, but if not done with care, it is easy to
to chain failure.
damage the tool or the chain.
If there is no evidence of a protruding rivet, then
remove the chain and hang it vertically. If the chain
Chain cleaning
Chain cleaning is a 5–15 minute job of little difficulty but
develops a twist over its length, so that the uppermost
does require elbow grease in some cases. Additional time is
links do not face the same way as the lowermost links, then
required if not using compressed air to remove the solvent
the chain has one or more twisted side-plates and should
from the chain. Thorough drying is critical, and it could take
be replaced (see following figure 26.6). Twisted side-plates
26 – 4
26 – CHAINS
a few hours in the hot sun or all day and overnight to thor- it were a non-HG chain, rivet failure may be experienced. If
oughly dry a chain on the bench top or on the bike. you treat any narrow chain marked UG or HG as an HG
chain, there shouldn’t be any problems.
COMPLICATIONS
Identifying chain-width classification CHAIN COMPATIBILITY
In addition to dimensional compatibility, derailleur
When performing certain operations, it is important to
chains may have design features that affect the shift perfor-
know the width classification of the chain (6-speed, 8-speed,
mance on the cassette and chainrings. Although chains for
9-speed, or 10-speed). Determining chain width is simply a
9-speed and 10-speed cassettes will function on drive trains
matter of measuring the rivet length.
with fewer gears on the cassette, the narrow outside width
Identifying whether a chain is HG/IG or of these chains makes them perform poorly when used
non-HG/IG with chainrings and front derailleurs that are not 9-speed-
When performing certain operations, it is important to or 10-speed-specific design. Usually shift performance will
know whether the chain is an HG/IG chain or not. With be adequate when the rider is shifting in optimal conditions
extremely few exceptions, an HG/IG chain will have the but will deteriorate noticeably when the rider is shifting in
marking “HG” or “IG” stamped on the outer side-plates. less than ideal conditions.
Some early models of the chain were marked “UG” but Cassette and chainring manufacturers often use compli-
not all UG chains are HG. If a narrow chain marked UG cated shaping of the gear teeth to optimize shifting, particu-
is assumed to be an HG chain and it is treated as such, no larly when the chain is under load. It is for this reason that
serious consequences will arise if you are wrong. On the a manufacturer may specify that a certain design of chain
other hand, if an HG chain marked UG is treated as though be used with the cassette or chainrings. The most common
CHAIN TOOLS (table 26-1)

INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL TOOLS
Campagnolo UT-CN200 For use with Campagnolo C10 master link (Shimano TL-CN31 is also suitable)
Various brands of Designed for taking on a ride, not sturdy enough and do not function reliably
compact tools enough to use any time except for emergency repair
Hozan C301 Screw-type tool, not HG/IG compatible
Hozan C320 Plier-type tool, not HG/IG compatible
Park CT-2 Plier-type tool, not HG/IG compatible
Park CT-3 Screw-type, HG/IG compatible, best tool for tight-link removal
Park CT-7 Fits 1/2" × 1/8" and 1/2" × 3/16" (415-size chain) BMX freestyle chains
Pedro’s Pro 6460350 Looks like Shimano TL-CN31 but lacks important features found on TL-CN31
Rohloff Revolver 2 Screw-type tool, not HG/IG compatible, prevents occurence of tight links
Sharp Chain Breaker Fits 1/2" × 1/4" (420-size chain) used on extreme BMX freestyle bikes
Shimano TL-CN31 Screw-type tool compatible with all chains (including 9-speed and 10-speed),
durable, easy to use; lacks tight-link removal feature (use Park CT-3)
VAR 303 Plier-type tool, not HG/IG compatible
WEAR-MEASUREMENT TOOLS
Park CC-2 Numerical gradations, accurate and consistent
Rohloff Caliber 2 Simple “no go” gauge, accurate and consistent
Wippermann Chain Simple “no go” gauge
Wear Indicator
CLEANING TOOLS
“On-the-bike” chain Useful for cosmetic cleaning or consumer use only
cleaners, all brands
Park GSC-1 Good stiff brush for cleaning chains and cogs
26 – 5
26 – CHAINS
example is Shimano Hyperglide (HG) and Interglide (IG) gears that come on the bike, particularly on rear-suspension
cassettes, chainrings, and chains. The Shimano IG chain has mountain bikes. The customer may also elect to install a rear
side-plate shaping that is designed to optimize shifting under derailleur that does not have the capacity for all possible gear
load from smaller- to larger-diameter gears and additional combinations. If the customer is aware of the limitations of
shaping that is designed to optimize shifting under load running a chain that is too short or too long and can limit
from larger- to smaller-diameter gears. The Shimano HG gear selection to avoid the consequences, then the customer
chain only has the shaping designed to optimize shifting may choose to keep a chain that is the wrong length. If the
from smaller- to larger-diameter gears. Consequently, using chain is left too long, that means that when the chain is on
an HG chain on an IG cassette and chainring results in the the smaller chainring it will be slack on one or more of the
loss of the optimized performance when shifting under outermost rear cogs. If these combinations are avoided, there
load from larger- to smaller-diameter gears. If switching will be no problem. If the customer rides with the chain
chains in the reverse direction (using and IG chain on an slack, there is a chance it will come off or possibly come
HG drivetrain), the shift performance will be exactly the out of position in a way that it will jam in the rear derailleur
same as with the HG chain. and damage the rear derailleur. However, too long is a better
choice than too short.
ABOUT THE REST If the chain is left too short, it can have two conse-
quences. It can reduce shift performance of the rear derail-
OF THIS CHAPTER leur, particularly when on the large chainring and shifting
The rest of this chapter is in three parts. These onto one of the innermost rear cogs. The circumstance
are DERAILLEUR CHAINS, NON-DERAILLEUR CHAINS, that the customer must avoid at all times is shifting into a
and CHAIN TROUBLESHOOTING. DERAILLEUR CHAINS large-chainring/large-rear-cog combination that exceeds
includes length inspection, wear identification, removal, the capacity of the derailleur. The consequence is that the
cleaning, sizing, lubrication, installation, and inspection of derailleurs can jam so badly that they cannot shift out of
chains. NON-DERAILLEUR CHAINS covers master links and the unacceptable gear combination, or worse yet, the rear
tensioning of chains. Information about rivets, cleaning, derailleur can be destroyed.
and lubrication of non-derailleur chains is the same as 1. [ ] Shift chain to outermost chainring and inner-
derailleur chains, so it is not repeated. most rear cog.
2. [ ] Rear suspension only: Remove bolt at one
end of rear shock so suspension can be
moved through its full range of motion with-
DERAILLEUR CHAINS out encountering resistance from spring.
Move suspension through full range of
motion to find point with least chain slack.
PRE-REMOVAL INSPECTIONS
It is a good idea to inspect whether the length of the
chain is correct before removing it (for cleaning or other ser-
vice). If during the service it is determined that a new chain
is needed, then there is no need to go through the process
of determining the size by testing. If the old chain was the
correct size, the new chain can just be cut to match. New 2-roller contact
chains all come in one uniform length, which is long enough 3-roller contact
for all bikes and usually must be sized to fit. 26.7 With the chain on the innermost rear cog and
outermost chainring, check the number of chain rollers
Length inspection contacting each pulley. The chain is too short if, no mat-
There are several legitimate methods to determine ter how the chain is rotated, no more than two rollers
ever contact either pulley at any time.
whether a chain is an acceptable length. The method here
is universal and should always get a close-enough result. If 3. [ ] Inspect at each pulley wheel for amount of
the chain cannot be sized to pass both the too-long and chain bend (wrap). If three rollers can con-
too-short tests, it means that the gear combination of the tact each pulley, bend is sufficient. If not,
chain is too short (circle if so). NOTE: It may
front chainrings and the rear cogs exceeds the maximum total
be necessary to move chain 1/4" to check
capacity of the rear derailleur. maximum amount of roller contact.
It is not unusual for bike manufacturers to supply a bike
with a derailleur that does not have the proper capacity for the
26 – 6
26 – CHAINS
4. [ ] Shift chain to outermost rear cog and inner- The biggest problem mechanics have with chain-rivet
most chainring. extraction is not making sure the chain is in the tool correctly
5. [ ] Rear suspension only: Move suspension before beginning the rivet extraction. The chain must be in
through full range of motion to find point the tool cradle completely so that it does not shift around
with most chain slack.
under load. The driving pin of the tool must be straight and
Sag centered on the chain rivet. Although this procedure requires
high force in some cases, be sensitive, and stop if it seems
excessive. If the force does seem excessive, double check
everything. Failure to exercise proper care will result in the
destruction of a chain link and/or the chain tool.
On certain chains, not all rivets are removable. In these
26.8 With the chain on the outermost rear cog and the cases, attempting to remove the wrong rivet can lead to
innermost chainring, this is what the chain may look like
if it is too long, in some cases. Note that the top section
chain failure. In general, any rivet that is double peened is
of chain is dangling. removable. Shimano HG/IG chains feature special replace-
ment rivets that must not be removed. When most of the rivets
are identical, but one or a few rivets are unique, the unique
rivets should never be removed. Campagnolo C10 (10-speed)
chains have master links with hollow rivets that must never
be removed. On any chain, if one or a few links are unique,
then these are probably master links. Removing a reusable
Extra contact
master link is the preferred method for removal if the chain
26.9 With the chain on the outermost rear cog and is to be reused. Not all master links are reusable.
the innermost chainring, this is what the chain may look 3. [ ] Carefully inspect entire chain for unique
like if it is too long, in some cases. Note that the chain
rivets and/or links that may be master links
touches itself under the upper pulley wheel.
or may be non-removable replacement riv-
6. To check for chain too long: ets. NOTE: If master link is found, skip to
[ ] Check whether chain hangs slack between DERAILLEUR-CHAIN MASTER LINKS (page 26-13).
top of rear cog and top of chainring (see figure Some chain tools have two cradles on which to seat the
26.8). If it does, chain is too long (circle if so). chain. One of these cradles is for rivet removal and installa-
[ ] Check whether chain contacts itself or any
tion, and the other is for eliminating tight links. If the wrong
part of rear derailleur after leaving bottom side
of lower pulley wheel on way to bottom of
cradle is used, it will damage the chain and the tool. In all
chainring (see figure 26.9). If it does, chain is cases where there are two cradles, the one furthest from the
too long (circle if so). rotating tool handle is for rivet removal and installation.
Wear inspection Chain goes here for

7. [ ] Place Park CC-2 on top of chain with both rivet removal/installation
pegs on underside of tool inside of a link. Chain goes here to
Gauge should be on left end of tool. eliminate tight link
8. [ ] Push gauge up as far as it will comfortably
go and inspect whether both pegs are press-
ing against rollers and not against the end of
an inner side-plate.
9. Read number on gauge in window of tool and
check one of following options: 26.10 This is a side view of a chain tool with two cra-
[ ] Reading 0–.5, chain is fresh. dles. Note which one is for rivet removal and installation.
[ ] Reading >.5 and <.75, chain is usable. 4. [ ] Engage tool to lower section of chain and
[ ] Reading .75 or greater, chain is unusable. turn handle just until tool pin contacts chain
rivet. Make sure that tool pin is centered on
CHAIN REMOVAL chain rivet and that chain rollers are seated
fully in cradle in chain tool.
1. [ ] Spin chain-tool shaft to check whether rivet-
In the next step, push a chain rivet partially out. A
driving pin of tool is bent.
2. [ ] Shift chain to smallest chainring and small-
common mistake is too push it too far, which causes all
est rear cog to reduce tension on chain. kinds of trouble. It is better to push it too little than too
much. The correct amount to push the rivet is so that
26 – 7
26 – CHAINS
the end being pushed clears the first outer side-plate, the Only if they are too difficult to separate should the
first inner side-plate, the roller, and no more than half rivet be pushed out 1/2 turn more. To separate the links,
the second inner side-plate. When the links are separated, flex them sideways while pulling them apart.
the rivet should be left protruding about .5mm to 1.0mm 7. [ ] Flex chain laterally while pulling both direc-
into the inner face of the second outer side-plate. This tions from link with pushed-out rivet to com-
protrusion is used to hold the links together temporarily plete separation of chain (see figure 26.12).
when sizing the chain or when preparing to drive the rivet 8. [ ] Pull on end of chain with protruding rivet to
remove chain from bike.
back in. Even with Shimano HG/IG chains, with which
the rivet is eventually replaced, it is an advantage to leave
the rivet protruding in this fashion. CHAIN CLEANING
1. [ ] To control chain properly while cleaning,
fold chain in half and coil with loose ends at
center of coil.
If a chain is neatly coiled and contained in a container
that is correctly sized to prevent uncoiling, then the chain
Rivet protrudes inside last plate is much less likely to end up tangled. A short can that has a
26.11 Once the links are separated, the rivet will pro- diameter of 4.5–5.0 inches should fit most chains. A typical
trude inside the outer side-plate if it was pushed out the half-pound peanut can is just the right size.
correct amount. 2. [ ] Submerge chain in can of solvent and let
Most chain tools have a thread pitch on the tool shaft soak as long as possible.
of 1mm. By counting the half-turns of the tool handle 3. [ ] Drain off solvent until chain is only slightly
from the point it begins to push on the rivet, it is possible submerged but can be easily seen.
to control the amount that the rivet is pushed. Before start- If a chain has been dirty a long time, then it may not
ing the rivet extraction, measure the rivet length to deter- be possible to clean it thoroughly. Clumps of hard dirt
mine whether the chain is a 6-speed, 8-speed, 9-speed, or that cannot be dislodged by a stiff-bristle brush develop
10-speed width. The most common pitch for chain-tool on parts of the link where metal-to-metal contact does not
shafts is 1mm. If using a tool with a 1mm shaft-thread normally occur. Do not worry too much about removing
pitch, use the following guide for the number of half turns this kind of dirt. The Park GSC-1 is a good brush for this
to use for each chain width. purpose, and it is also the recommended tool for freewheel
6-speed chain: 11 half turns and cassette cleaning.
4. [ ] Use stiff-bristle brush to clean side of chain
8-speed chain: 10 half turns
that is facing up.
9-speed chain: 9 half turns
5. [ ] Turn chain coil over and scrub second face
10-speed chain: 8 half turns in a similar fashion.
5. [ ] Note starting position of tool handle and turn
The most important part of the chain to clean is the
handle appropriate number of turns to drive
rivet through 2–1/2 side-plates. NOTE: Park
rollers. The chain must be uncoiled to access the rollers
CT-3 has circlip on tool shaft to indicate and laid out full length, or folded in half. It will not be
stopping point. possible to contain it in a container of solvent when it is
6. [ ] Loosen tool shaft until pin is out of chain extended in this fashion. If not using a full-size solvent
and disengage tool from chain. tank, spread out several thick sections of newspaper on
a large work surface big enough to cover the length of
the entire chain. Make sure that the newspaper is thick
2 2
enough to absorb all the solvent, or put a layer of plastic
under the newspaper. The left-over solvent from the side-
1 1 plate cleaning may be enough to use while scrubbing the
rollers, but periodically refresh the scrub brush in fresh
solvent, if necessary.
26.12 When the rivet is pushed out enough, flex the 6. [ ] Remove and uncoil chain and put it on its
chain in this direction while pulling to get the links to edge (rollers visible from directly above).
separate. 7. [ ] Use stiff-bristle brush to scrub rollers and
inside of inner side-plates, periodically dip-
ping brush in fresh solvent.
26 – 8
26 – CHAINS
8. [ ] Turn chain over and scrub other edge in One of the factors that promotes dirt accumulation
same fashion. is the quantity of oil on the chain. Avoid oiling too fre-
Scrubbing the side-plates and the rollers does not quently. Oil only when there is need. Avoid using certain
remove the dirt from the chain, it has merely dislodged aerosols, because they promote over-oiling. Always wipe
it. In the next step, rinse the chain repeatedly to get the off excess oil thoroughly with a clean rag.
dislodged dirt out of and off of the chain. Some aerosols are more of a problem than others.
9. [ ] Rinse chain thoroughly in fresh solvent. When considering some aerosol lubricants, perform a
It is very important that the chain be totally dry before simple test. Squirt an equal quantity of each lubricant
lubricating it. If solvent is inside the rollers when oil being considered on a clean, flat, metallic or glass surface.
is added, then the solvent will displace or break down After 10 minutes, see if any of the lubricants have dried
the oil, and the most important part of the chain to be noticeably. This test simply identifies whether a lubricant
lubricated will not be lubricated. If using compressed has an evaporative base or not. Those that stay wet are
air for the drying, blow air over the entire chain on both going to make the chain a gooey mess because the aerosol
edges and both faces repeatedly until there is no solvent guarantees over-application, and the excess wet oil will
creeping out from the overlapping side-plates or from be great at accumulating dirt. The same lubricant might
between the rollers and the inner side-plates. If not using be excellent in a drip container, because with a drip con-
compressed air, it is difficult to know when the chain tainer it is possible to avoid over-application.
is dry, because the last and most critical part to dry is If the bike is ridden in conditions that expose the
inside the rollers. Experience has shown that two hours chain to water frequently, be concerned with whether the
in the direct sun on a warm day should be adequate, or lubricant will wash off the chain too easily. A lubricant
24 hours otherwise. Do not use application of heat to that does not hold up well to water will cause the chain
evaporate solvent because of the risk of fire and the to squeak within half an hour of riding after being in the
possible generation of toxic fumes. rain. Historically, the lubricants that are best at remaining
10. [ ] Use compressed air to dry chain completely on after exposure to water are the worst about accumulat-
(or 2 hours in direct sun, or 24 hours with-
ing dirt. It may be best to compromise. Keep in mind that
out direct sun or compressed air).
is always easier to add more lubricant (even in mid-ride)
than it is to clean a chain.
CHAIN LUBRICATION When lubricating, there are four points at each rivet
There is probably more voodoo about chain lubri- that need lubrication: at both overlaps of outer side-
cation than there is about any other subject regarding plates and inner side-plates, and at the contact points
bicycle mechanics. The function of chain lubrication is of both inner side-plates and each side of the roller.
actually very simple. The lubricant must remain between These are the four points where metal slides against
the moving parts to reduce friction and to keep rust from metal. Oil is needed inside and on the surface of the
developing where moving parts touch each other, and it rollers as well, but it will get there automatically when
must remain as clean as possible because the contaminants oiling each edge of the roller. The mistake is to think
create friction. The loads on bicycle chains are not so that the external surface of the chain needs oil. This
unusual that exotic lubricants are required to reduce wear just increases the mess and dirt accumulation. If using
and friction. If an exotic oil with outstanding friction- a spray lubricant, everything that needs lubrication will
reducing properties evaporated or broke down quickly, get it in one quick pass of the nozzle over the chain. If
or promoted the accumulation of dirt, then it would not using a drip lubricant, put a drip between each side-plate
be a better lubricant for a chain. overlap and on each side of each roller.
There are two important properties to chain lubri- Oil
cants: 1) they must minimize the accumulation of dirt
because dirt accelerates wear and chain cleaning is a hassle;
2) they must also be durable because lack of lubricant
increases chain wear. Durability is the less significant factor
because it is relatively easy to repeatedly lubricate a chain.
Oil
In general, oils that are marketed specifically as bicycle-
26.13 Lubricate each link at the four points shown.
chain lubricants are going to be superior to all non-bicycle-
specific products, including those general household and
handyman oils that are also recommended for bicycles.
26 – 9
26 – CHAINS
1. [ ] Apply lubricant to chain so that it penetrates tom to the top. Once it has gone around the front and over
every overlap between an inner side-plate the top of the upper pulley wheel, it goes up and around
and an outer side-plate and so that it pene- the back side of the outermost rear cog. When ready to
trates between roller and where each roller put the no-rivet end through the front derailleur cage and
contacts an inner side-plate.
around the large chainring, it is easiest if there is about a
2. [ ] If chain is installed, backpedal for 30 sec-
foot of the end of the chain dangling from your fingertips
onds, or if chain is off bike, wiggle it like a
snake for 30 seconds to help lubricant pene- to drop through the derailleur cage. Once it lands on the
trate into crevasses. teeth, rotate the crank to pull the chain through.
3. [ ] Use clean rag (terry cloth preferred) to thor-
oughly wipe excess lubricant off of chain.
CHAIN INSTALLATION
Many modern derailleur chains utilize a special rivet
or a master link for assembly. It is rare anymore for a
derailleur chain to be joined by pushing in a rivet that
has been pushed out of a link. If the chain comes with a
master link or replacement rivet, assume it is mandatory
to use instead of pushing in a rivet that was pushed out
for removal or sizing. When a master link is being used, a
replacement chain should have inner side-plates at both
ends, and the chain should be one set of side-plates shorter
than the chain that was removed (assuming the removed
chain was the correct length).
1. [ ] No master link only: If replacing chain and
existing chain was an acceptable length,
remove links from new chain so that num-
ber of links in new chain matches number 26.14 Follow the arrow to feed the chain through the
of links in old chain. rear derailleur and around the rear cog.
Master link only: If replacing chain and
existing chain was an acceptable length, 3. [ ] Reusable rivet only: Arrange chain so face
remove links from new chain so that num- with protruding rivet faces out.
ber of links matches number of links in old Shimano HG/IG only: Arrange chain so face
chain, then remove outer side-plate set at with protruding rivet faces in.
end of new chain. 4. [ ] Tip bike down in front so front edge of
2. [ ] Position rear derailleur under outermost lower pulley wheel is just behind back edge
rear cog and front derailleur over innermost of upper pulley wheel. NOTE: If bike cannot
chainring. be tipped in this fashion, rotate rear derail-
leur back to achieve same orientation of pul-
When threading a chain through the derailleurs and
ley wheels.
around the gears, you will need to start with the end of
5. [ ] Drop no-rivet end of chain through derail-
the chain that has no rivet sticking out from a side-plate. leur cage in front of lower pulley and behind
Consider this the “no-rivet” end. For chains with a reus- upper pulley. NOTE: Make sure chain goes in
able rivet, it’s a handy technique to make sure that the straight line between pulleys (chain should
rivet that is sticking out faces away from the bike once not touch anything between each pulley).
the chain is installed. This makes use of the chain tool 6. [ ] Pull about 6–12" of chain past pulley wheel,
less awkward. For Shimano HG/IG chains, start with the then loop chain up and back toward cassette.
protruding rivet on the inside face of the chain. 7. [ ] Reaching behind derailleur, pull end of chain
Getting the chain correctly through the rear derailleur under outermost cog of cassette, then wrap
chain over top of outermost cog.
and around the gears can be confusing. Grab the end of
8. [ ] Pull chain about 12" past top of front derail-
the derailleur and rotate the cage until it is approximately
leur, then drop end of chain through front-
straight up and down. See that the cage has a lower pulley derailleur cage and onto teeth of innermost
wheel and an upper pulley wheel. The chain goes through chainring. Rotate crank to pull chain through
the derailleur in a reverse S ( ), and it is fed from the bot- derailleur cage (leave chain ends dangling).
26 – 10
26 – CHAINS
CHAIN SIZING Sag

NOTE: If reinstalling an old chain that was an
acceptable length and not installing a new chain,
new rear derailleur, new-size chainrings, or new-
size rear cogs, go to REUSABLE RIVET INSTALLATION
(page 26-11), SHIMANO CHAINS (page 26-12), or
DERAILLEUR-CHAIN MASTER LINKS (page 26-13).
Making a sizing tool
A simple sizing tool can be made out of an old spoke
or similar stiff wire (2–2.3mm diameter and 70–80mm
long). The spoke or wire needs to be bent into a broad
Extra contact
U shape. The inside width of the U needs to be 45mm
(1–2mm deviation is acceptable). The ends of the U 26.15 With the chain on the outermost rear cog and
should be slightly closer than 45mm. The tool is used the innermost chainring, this is what the chain will look
like if it is too long, in some cases. In the top example,
to join the loose ends of chain together temporarily. By note that the top section of chain noticeably sags. In the
changing the number of rollers inside one end of the U, bottom example, note that the chain touches itself under
different lengths of chain can be simulated. The length the upper pulley wheel.
of the sizing tool is important because it represents the 2. [ ] Inspect chain for sag in top section.
length of three side-plate sets. 3. [ ] Inspect chain for extra contact at upper pul-
Checking and adjusting length ley wheel.
4. [ ] Adjust chain length two rollers at a time
If chain length was not acceptable originally, then it (non-rivet-end only) until sag and extra con-
is necessary to perform some tests to determine the best tact are just eliminated.
length. There is no standard number of links, formula, or
table that can be used because there are too many variables.
Chain length is set in a specific gear combination, with the REUSABLE RIVET INSTALLATION
chain on the outermost rear cog and innermost chainring. NOTE: This section is only for non-Shimano chains
In this gear combination, if the chain is too long it will and chains that don’t use master links. For these
exhibit one of the symptoms in figure 26.15. If one of other chains, go to SHIMANO CHAINS (page 26-12)
or DERAILLEUR-CHAIN MASTER LINKS (page 26-13).
these symptoms is exhibited, adjust the length by two-roller
Before putting the chain on the chain tool to push in
increments until the symptom just disappears.
the rivet, join the ends of the chain together. If the rivet
Chain length is always important because it affects rear-
is protruding inside the outer side-plate, as it is supposed
derailleur shift performance. When there is a significant
to, this can be awkward. Put the no-rivet end between
deviation from the recommended length or when the rear-
the outer side-plates until it bumps into the protruding
derailleur total capacity is being stretched to its limit, chain
rivet. Use the no-rivet end as a lever to spread apart the
length is even more important because too short or long
outer side-plates, then force the no-rivet end past the
of a chain can lead to a damaged rear derailleur.
protrusion of the rivet.
A common misconception about chain length is that it
Mechanics get in trouble for several reasons when
is adjusted to change the tension on the chain, particularly
pressing in the rivet. The first reason is that they do not
in the lower section of chain between the rear derailleur
make sure that the holes in the four side-plates all line up
and the bottom of the chainrings. This is not adjustable,
before pushing in the rivet. This jams the rivet into the
except by changing the rear derailleur’s internal springs.
last side-plate it goes through, deforms the side-plate, and
The tension on the lower section of chain is also not of
bends the tool’s driving pin.
any great significance.
1. [ ] No master link only: Insert one end of siz-
ing tool down into chain between 2nd and 3rd
rollers at end of chain with rivet; then insert
other end of tool between 2nd and 3rd rollers
in other end of chain.
Hole does not line up
Master link only: Insert one end of sizing
tool down into chain between 2nd and 3rd 26.16 This is what it looks like when the four side-
rollers at one end of chain; then between 2nd plates do not line up.
and 3rd rollers at other end of chain.
26 – 11
26 – CHAINS
The second reason is that they do not make sure that If the flexing technique does not work, a chain tool
the chain is well seated in the tool cradle, so the rivet does is needed that has a tight-link-removal feature. This is
not get pressed straight in, causing it to jam and damage always a tool that has two cradles on which to mount the
the link or the tool. Finally, they do not make sure that the chain. The one for tight-link removal is always the cradle
tool pin is straight and centered on the rivet, which causes that is closest to the rotating handle of the tool. When the
the rivet to jam and damages the side-plates or the tool. chain is on this cradle, only the first two plates (closest to
Although high force may be required to push in the the tool pin) are supported by the tool. When the rivet
rivet, be sensitive to any excess force that indicates things is pressed further, it is moved further only through the
are not lined up and the rivet is jamming. first two side-plates. Since the rivet is moving through
Some chain tools have two cradles on which to seat the one outer plate and is remaining unmoved in the other
chain. One of these cradles is for rivet removal and installa- outer side-plate, the distance between the two outer
tion and the other is for eliminating tight links. If using the side-plates is increased. This eliminates the bind on the
wrong cradle, it can damage the chain and the tool. In all roller. A very little amount of displacement of the rivet
cases where there are two cradles, the one furthest from the is required to achieve this.
rotating tool handle is for rivet removal and installation.
Do not put chain here
Chain goes here for to loosen tight link
rivet installation Put chain here to
Do not put chain here loosen tight link
to install rivet
26.18 This is a chain tool with two chain cradles.

26.17 This is a chain tool with two chain cradles. Put Put the chain on the cradle indicated when preparing to
the chain on the cradle indicated when preparing to push loosen a tight rivet.
in the rivet. 6. If chain holds bend in previous step (tight link),
1. [ ] Join ends of chain together and put chain perform these two steps (second one only if
tool on chain so that rollers are fully down necessary):
in cradle. Turn tool shaft in until tool pin is [ ] Grasp chain firmly on both sides of tight
just touching protruding end of chain rivet. link, flex chain vigorously side to side (at
Check that tool pin is centered on rivet. right angles to direction chain is meant to
2. [ ] Inspect that side-plates appear to be prop- pivot), and test for tight link again.
erly lined up. [ ] If side flexing did not eliminate tight link,
When pressing in the rivet, look to see when to stop put chain on correct cradle of tight-rivet-
turning the tool handle. The objective is to end up with removal tool (see figure 26.18), turn in tool
equal amounts of rivet protruding out past each outer shaft just until tool pin is firmly against rivet,
turn tool 1/4 to 1/3 turn, and check again
side-plate. If the rivet is pushed too far, remove the chain
for tight link.
tool and switch it to the other side.
NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (page 26-15).
3. [ ] Turn tool handle until same amount of rivet
is showing outside each outer side-plate,
being careful not to force rivet when side-
plates are not properly lined up.
SHIMANO CHAINS
Shimano HG and IG replacement rivets require a
4. [ ] Loosen tool handle and remove tool.
great deal of force to install, and a great deal of resistance
5. [ ] Pivot chain at rivet just installed and release
slowly to see if chain holds bend. occurs at the final outer side-plate into which the rivet
Pressing the rivet through all four side-plates at once goes. If not done carefully, this procedure can easily dam-
causes the side-plates to compress against each other and age the tool and the chain. Lubricating the rivet reduces the
pinch on the roller, which causes the link to be tight and force required, which makes it easier to tell if something is
hold a bend. Step #6 spreads the side-plates apart by flex- jamming and actually reduces the amount of deformation
ing the chain laterally (perpendicular to the direction the of the outer side-plates that always occurs. An HG/IG-
links pivot). Chains are very strong, so do not be afraid compatible chain tool supports the outer side-plate in a
to flex the chain vigorously. way that reduces the deformation that occurs, as well.
26 – 12
26 – CHAINS
The replacement rivet consists of two parts, a pilot 10. [ ] Turn tool handle until full length of
shaft that has a tapered tip and a flare at the other end, and replacement-rivet pilot shaft is exposed
a flanged rivet that is a tighter fit than the rivet it replaces. on far side of chain and equal amounts of
The pilot shaft guides the rivet into place, expands the replacement rivet are exposed outside both
outer side-plates.
holes in the outer side-plates to accommodate the larger
11. [ ] Loosen tool handle and remove tool.
rivet, and pushes the old rivet the rest of the way out.
12. [ ] Grasp pilot with tool and twist to side to
Once the replacement rivet is in place, the pilot shaft snap off pilot.
easily snaps off. 13. [ ] Pivot chain at rivet just installed and release
slowly to see if chain holds bend.
Replacement rivet A tight rivet on an HG/IG chain is usually caused by
incomplete installation of the replacement rivet. In any
case, try side-flexing the chain first. If that does not work,
Replacement-rivet pilot use step #14 to center the rivet.
14. If chain holds bend in previous step (tight link),
perform these three steps (second and third
steps only as necessary):
[ ] Grasp chain firmly on both sides of tight
link, flex chain vigorously side to side (at
right angles to direction chain is meant to
pivot), and test for tight link again.
[ ] If previous technique does not fix tight link,
Original rivet
inspect replacement rivet to see if either end is
sticking out more than the other and put chain
26.19 This is a Shimano replacement rivet.
tool on to push that end of rivet further in.
Shimano replacement rivets are made in two lengths, [ ] If previous techniques do not fix tight link,
one for 8-speed chains (black) and one for 9-speed chains put chain on correct cradle of tight-rivet-
(silver). The 8-speed rivet, including the pilot, is approxi- removal tool, turn in tool shaft just until tool
mately 15.5mm long, and the 9-speed rivet, including the pin is firmly against rivet, turn tool 1/4 to
pilot, is approximately 14.8mm long. 1/3 turn, then check again for tight link (see
7. [ ] 8-speed chain: Select 15.5mm (black) figure 26.18, page 26-12).
replacement rivet and oil full length of rivet. NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (page 26-15).
9-speed chain: Select 14.8mm (silver)
replacement rivet and oil full length of rivet.
8. [ ] Join ends of chain and insert tapered end of
DERAILLEUR-CHAIN
pilot shaft of replacement rivet through side-
plates until replacement pilot shaft is butted
MASTER LINKS
There are several types of master links made for
against old rivet. derailleur chains. Some are permanent and others are
9. [ ] Put chain tool on chain so that rollers are fully
reusable. The following procedures include removal and
down in cradles and turn tool shaft in until
tool pin is just touching replacement rivet.
installation for reusable types, but for master link types
Check that tool pin is centered on rivet. that are permanent, there are no removal steps.
As the flare at the end of the pilot passes through each SRAM Powerlink removal
outer side-plate, there is more resistance than when the The SRAM Powerlink consists of two identical outer
flare is passing through the inner side-plates and the rollers plates. Each plate has one grooved pin and one pear-
(which have larger holes than the outer side-plates). When shaped hole. The pear-shaped hole is large enough at one
starting the replacement rivet in with the tool, expect an end to permit the pin to install and remove, but when the
initial high resistance, followed by less resistance, and then pin is in the smaller end of the hole it cannot pass through
an increase in resistance as the rivet begins to go through the plate. The Powerlink is available in two configurations
the final outer side-plate. When an equal amount of rivet to fit 8-speed and 9-speed chains.
protrudes from both outer side-plates, stop. Stopping early 1. [ ] While pressing Powerlink plates toward
or stopping late will cause a tight rivet. each other, compress chain so rollers inside
Powerlink move closer together; then pull
plates out from each face of chain when ends
of pins are in large ends of pear-shaped holes.
26 – 13
26 – CHAINS
SRAM Powerlink installation 2. [ ] With second plate at right angles to chain,

engage large end of long hole to one pin, then
NOTE: Complete CHAIN INSTALLATION (page 26-10).
2. [ ] Insert one piece into back face of chain and slide plate so pin is in other end of long hole.
the other piece into front face of chain. 3. [ ] Rotate plate so large end of hole is over sec-
3. [ ] Line up Powerlink pins with large ends ond pin, then flex chain and press on plate
of pear-shaped holes in Powerlink plates, until plate seats over second pin.
engage pins into holes, then pull on chain NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (page 26-15).
on either side of Powerlink so pins move to Superlink & Connex removal
small ends of pear-shaped holes. The Superlink and Wippermann Connex master links
NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (page 26-15).
are quite different in appearance, but both brands are
KMC removal (old style 1-pin plates) removed and installed with the same techniques.
The old-style KMC master link consists of two identical The Superlink master link consists of two identical
outer plates. Each plate has one grooved pin and one pear- outer plates. Each plate has one grooved pin and one pear-
shaped hole. The pear-shaped hole is large enough at one shaped hole. The pear-shaped hole is large enough at one
end to permit the pin to install and remove, but when the end to permit the pin to install and remove, but when the
pin is in the smaller end of the hole it cannot pass through pin is in the smaller end of the hole it cannot pass through
the plate. Considerable force is needed to move the pin the plate. The end of the plate with the hole is extra long,
into and out of the smaller end of the pear-shaped hole. which prevents the link from accidentally compressing to
Some pliers have pronounced “fang teeth” just past the the position where the pins can release from the holes.
fine-toothed jaws. These fang teeth are useful for applying The Wippermann Connex master link consists of two
pressure exactly where it is needed for removal of these identical outer plates. Each plate has one grooved pin and
master links. Craftsman pliers have this feature. one kidney-shaped hole. The kidney-shaped hole is large
1. [ ] Fold chain on both sides of master link to a enough at one end to permit the pin to install and remove,
right-angle bend, then squeeze “fang teeth” but when the pin is in the smaller end of the hole it cannot
of pliers against rollers in master link until pass through the plate. The end of the plate with the hole is
master-link pins snap into large ends of extra long, which prevents the link from accidentally com-
master-link plate holes.
pressing to the position where the pins can release from the
2. [ ] Pull master-link plates apart.
holes. The Connex plates are asymmetrical. If other links
KMC installation (old style 1-pin plates) might be called dog-bone shaped, then the Connex master
NOTE: Complete CHAIN INSTALLATION (page 26-10). link would be called a bent dog-bone shape. When installing
3. [ ] Insert one piece into back face of chain and this link, the inside of the bend should be oriented to the
the other piece into front face of chain. perimeter of the chain loop that goes against the cassette.
4. [ ] Line up master-link pins with large ends of
If not oriented in this fashion, the link may skip when going
holes in master-link plates, then engage pins
around an 11-tooth cog.
into holes.
5. [ ] Fold chain on both sides of master link to a Both of these links cannot be removed or installed
right-angle bend, then use pliers on opposite when the master link is in line with the other links in the
ends of master-link plates to snap master-link chain. Once the chain links attached to each end of the
pins into small ends of pear-shaped holes. master link are turned at right angles to the master link,
NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (page 26-15). the master link can easily be removed and installed.
These brands are available in three configurations to
KMC installation (new style 2-pin plate) fit 8-speed, 9-speed, and 10-speed chains.
The new-style KMC master link consists of one outer
1. [ ] Bend chain so there is a right-angle bend at
plate with two grooved pins and one outer plate with a each end of master link, press rollers inside
single elongated hole into which both pins of the other master link toward each other, then pull front
plate are installed. The elongated hole is larger near one plate out. Remove other master-link plate
end to permit the pins to install and remove, but when the from back face of chain.
pins are in the ends of the hole they cannot pass through
the plate. This master link is not removable. The KMC
Superlink & Connex installation
NOTE: Complete CHAIN INSTALLATION (page 26-10).
master link is made in two configurations to fit 8-speed 2. [ ] Line up chain ends to be joined so they are
and 9-speed chains. parallel and slightly less than a link apart.
NOTE: Complete CHAIN INSTALLATION (page 26-10). 3. [ ] Insert one piece into back face of chain and
1. [ ] Place each existing end of chain over each the other piece into front face of chain.
pin on double-pin plate.
26 – 14
26 – CHAINS
4. [ ] Line up pins with large ends of holes in plates, whether the chain is too short. If the chain length was
engage pins into holes, then pull links on either set to be the longest acceptable length and also appears to
side of master link away from each other. be too short, then the maximum total capacity of the rear
NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION (below). derailleur has been exceeded. Ideally, the derailleur or the
Campagnolo HD-link installation size of the chainrings and/or rear-cogs should be changed.
The Campagnolo HD-link is used on all Campagnolo If this is not an option, reinstall a link and check again
10-speed chains. It replaces the Campagnolo Permalink, for symptoms of a short chain. Go back to the section
which has been discontinued. The HD-link replaces a sec- CHAIN SIZING (page 26-11) to consider the implications
tion of the existing chain. The length of chain that is being of running a chain that is too short or too long.
replaced includes four sets of outer side-plates and three 2. [ ] Put chain on innermost rear cog and out-
sets of inner side-plates. The HD-link is not removable. ermost chainring and check whether less
than three chain rollers can contact each
The link is installed with special rivets. The rivets have pilots
pulley wheel at one time (chain too short).
similar to a Shimano replacement rivet, except the rivets and If chain exhibits signs of being too short
pilots are separate pieces. and chain was too long when it was one
NOTE: Complete CHAIN INSTALLATION (page 26-10). link longer, it indicates maximum capacity
1. [ ] Size chain so it is four outer side-plate sets of rear derailleur has been exceeded. NOTE:
and three inner side-plate sets shorter than Rear-suspension bikes must pass this test
correct length. through full range of suspension travel!
2. [ ] Install rivet pilot into one end of rivet (small 3. [ ] Inspect both faces of chain thoroughly for
shaft on pilot only fits in one end of rivet). any rivet protruding significantly more than
3. [ ] Align holes in outer plates at one end of others and correct as necessary.
HD-link with holes in inner plates at one When checking for tight links in step #4, push down
end of chain, then insert pilot/rivet assem-
on the bottom end of the rear-derailleur cage about 1/4"
bly into holes.
4. [ ] Use chain tool to press in rivet until centered. to relieve the bottom run of the chain of all tension.
Remove tool, then remove pilot from rivet. 4. [ ] With chain on innermost chainring and
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 for other end of HD-link. outermost rear cog, push down on end of
6. [ ] Check for tight links. If tight link is found, put rear-derailleur cage, and rotate crank slowly
chain on correct cradle of tight-rivet-removal backward while looking for tight links coming
tool, turn in tool shaft just until tool pin is out of rear derailleur. Correct as necessary.
firmly against rivet, turn tool 1/4 to 1/3 turn,
and check again for tight link (see figure
26.18, page 26-12).
NOTE: Go to CHAIN INSPECTION. NON-DERAILLEUR CHAINS
CHAIN INSPECTION MASTER LINKS
When finished with chain installation, check to make With the exception of track bikes, virtually all bikes
sure that everything has been done correctly, but also without derailleurs have a chain with a master link. Master
whether any previous work was done incorrectly. This links are occasionally used on derailleur chains.
inspection is a good idea, particularly for new bikes. Virtu- Master links come in several varieties, although only
ally 100% of chain failures can be attributed to improper two that are generally encountered. These are the clip-on
installation of rivets. With proper inspection, about the variety and the snap-on variety.
only thing a customer will ever use a chain tool for when
on a ride is fixing other people’s chains.
Clip-on master links
The clip-on master link consists of three parts. One
1. [ ] Inspect both outer side-plates where rivet
was installed for deformation (bulging) part is an outer plate with two rivets permanently fixed.
around rivet hole or metal shards from frac- Another part is an outer plate with two holes for rivets.
tured edge of rivet hole. Replace link if either The third part is an elongated circlip that clips into
problem is found. grooves in the ends of both rivets. See figures 26.20 and
When the chain was sized, it was set at the longest 26.21 (page 26-16) for removal and installation methods
acceptable length. If there is a problem with derailleur for clip-on master link.
capacity, or an error was made in sizing the chain, there It is good practice (and makes for easier maintenance)
is a possibility it is now too short. The next step tests for to install the clip on the outer face of the chain, with the
26 – 15
26 – CHAINS
closed end of the clip pointing in the direction of the
1
chain’s rotation.
Screwdriver
2 3
2
Pick
26.23 Installing snap-on master link.

2 It is good practice to install the plate with holes on
the outer face of the chain.
26.20 Removing the clip from a clip-on master link.
TANDEM TRANSFER CHAINS
The chain that connects the front crankset to the rear
crankset on a tandem bike is the transfer chain. It is usually
a standard derailleur chain, with no special attributes other
than size. When installing the chain, the synchronization
of the two cranksets and the tension on the chain must
both be set.
1
Chain-tensioning systems
3 There are two chain-tensioning systems used for
2 tandem transfer chains. One system utilizes an eccentric
mount for the front-crankset bottom bracket that moves
3 the two cranksets toward and away from each other as the
Direction of chain rotation eccentric mount is rotated in the front bottom-bracket
26.21 Installing the clip on a clip-on master link. shell. The other system utilizes an adjustable or spring-
loaded idler gear (pulley wheel) that applies tension to the
Snap-on master links bottom run of the chain (between the bottoms of the two
The snap-on master link consists of two parts. One left-side chainrings).
part is an outer plate with two rivets permanently fixed. If the chain-tensioning system is the eccentric type,
The other part is an outer plate with two holes for rivets. the front bottom-bracket shell will be obviously larger
The rivets on one outer plate have grooves that engage the than the rear. The shell may have a split that is closed by
holes in its counterpart. The rivets are fixed so that their two or more binder bolts, in which case the binder bolts
ends are slightly farther apart than the holes in the outer secure the eccentric mount in the shell. The shell may not
plate. The plate with the rivets must be flexed to move the be split, in which case there are set screws that secure the
rivet ends close enough together to insert the rivets into eccentric mount in the shell. Since the binder bolts and set
the other plate. Once joined together, the outer plate with screws may be of any number and thread dimension, there
holes is trapped in the grooves in the rivets. are no standard torques for these fittings. The tandem
manufacturer is the best source for this information.
Crankset synchronization
2 The cranksets can be synchronized together or in
1 1 opposition. Cranksets synchronized together have both
arms on one side at the same clock position at all times.
Cranksets synchronized in opposition have the two crank
3 arms on the same side, six hours apart, at all times. The
opposed option is less popular and should only be created
at the riders’ request. If not specified, always set the crank
26.22 Removing the snap-on master link.
arms to synchronize together.
26 – 16
26 – CHAINS
Once the type of synchronization is chosen, the pro- which the chain is tightest and adjust the wheel forward
cess of installing the chain to have the correct synchroniza- or backward until the chain will move up and down 1/2"
tion is simplified by securing both cranksets in the desired at the point halfway between the front and rear gears
relative positions with string or elastic cords. Loosen the (see figure 26.24).
tensioning device (eccentric or pulley wheel) so the chain
tension will be at a minimum. Wrap the chain over the
Adjusting chain tension with wheels
tops of both left-side chainrings, removing as much slack with simple axle nuts
as possible, then join the ends of the chain together in Install wheel centered in frame, then check the chain
the run between the bottoms of the chainrings. Rotate the tension. If the tension needs to be changed, loosen one
eccentric mount (use a wrench on either bottom bracket axle nut, move the wheel off center slightly, secure the
cup to turn it in its normal tightening direction) or adjust nut, loosen the other nut, move the wheel back to center,
the pulley wheel so there is 1/2" of free play in the top then tighten the second nut. Check the chain tension and
run of the chain. repeat the adjustment as needed.
Adjusting chain tension with wheels
with chain-tensioning devices
Chain-tensioning devices are mechanisms that engage
1/2" the axle and the dropouts. When the axle nuts are loose,
the bolts or screws on the tensioning devices can be indi-
vidually adjusted to simultaneously set the wheel center
and the chain tension.
26.24 Proper chain tension on a non-derailleur chain,
such as a track bike, internally geared rear hub, BMX
bike, or tandem transfer chain.
CHAIN TENSION
If the chain tension is too tight, it will not operate
smoothly. If it is too loose, it will fall off. Because gears
are not perfectly round, chain tension will vary depending
on the point of rotation of the crank. Find the point at
CHAIN TROUBLESHOOTING (table 26-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Chain slips or skips on a cog when pedaling hard.
Fresh chain not meshing with worn cog. Replace cog or cogs.
Worn chain not meshing with fresh cog(s). Replace chain.
SYMPTOM: The top section of chain hangs slack when the chain is on an outermost rear cog and the
innermost chainring.
Chain is too long. Put chain in correct gear and check chain length.
If chain length checked to be correct, rear-derailleur Change gearing or derailleur to match capacity, or
maximum total capacity has been exceeded. learn to ride with limits of a chain that is too long.
SYMPTOM: The bottom section of chain touches itself or the derailleur cage just below the upper pul-
ley wheel when the chain is on an outermost rear cog and the innermost chainring.
Chain is too long. Put chain in correct gear and check chain length.
maximum total capacity has been exceeded. learn to ride with limits of a chain that is too long.
Continued
26 – 17
26 – CHAINS
CHAIN TROUBLESHOOTING (table 26-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The derailleur jams going onto or off of the innermost rear cog, only when the chain is
already on the outermost chainring.
Chain is too short. Put chain in correct gear and check chain length.
maximum total capacity has been exceeded. learn to ride with limits of a chain that's too short.
SYMPTOM: The chain seems to skip or jump regularly but at a cycle that is equal to once every several
crank revolutions.
Tight link. Rotate crank backward and check for tight link
where chain comes out of rear derailleur.
Protruding rivet on inner face of chain. Inspect inner face of chain for rivet(s) protruding
more than others.
Twisted side-plates from chain jamming during Replace chain.
catastrophic over-shift off gears.
SYMPTOM: A tight link cannot be eliminated by the side-flexing technique or by using the tight-link-
removal feature of the chain tool.
Chain is rusty, dirty, or needs lubrication. Clean and oil chain. Replace if problem persists.
SYMPTOM: A rivet has come out and the link has blown apart while riding the bike.
Rivet was incompletely installed. Replace link if chain new, otherwise replace chain.
A pebble or other small, hard object was jammed Replace link if chain is new, otherwise replace
inside the link with the gear tooth and spread the chain.
outer side-plates too far apart.
SYMPTOM: Chain seems to rub against next cog inward in most or all gears.
Chain is wrong width classification for number of Replace chain with chain suitable for number of
gears on cassette or freewheel if symptom hap- gears on cassette or freewheel.
pens in most gears.
Spacing is wrong between two cogs, particularly Check and correct spacers between cogs.
if symptom only happens in one gear and cogs
have recently been removed and reinstalled from
freewheel/freehub body.
SYMPTOM: Chain doesn’t squeak but seems to be noisier after cleaning than before.
Excessively dirty, gummy chain was muffling nor- Start worrying when it gets quiet again, and then
mal chain noise. clean it again.
SYMPTOM: Chain makes a regular chirping or squeaking sound after being cleaned and oiled.
Certain links were not oiled. Backpedal slowly and stop as soon as chirping
occurs. Un-oiled link is now in rear-derailleur cage
or has just moved out of the rear-derailleur cage.
Chain was not thoroughly dried of solvent and Backpedal slowly and stop as soon as chirping
solvent is displacing or breaking down lubricant in occurs. Noisy link is now in rear-derailleur cage or
certain links. has just moved out of the rear-derailleur cage. Flood
offending link with lubricant. If this fails, remove
and clean chain again, then dry thoroughly.
SYMPTOM: Chain seems to stick to inner chainring and does not release to go to rear derailleur; then
chain jams between chainring and chain stay.
Chain or chainring is fouled with dirt. Clean chain and chainring.
Chainring is worn out and has hooked teeth. Replace chainring (steel preferred).
Thick aluminum chainring is intolerant of certain Replace inner chainring with narrow-steel model.
chains.
26 – 18
27 – CHAINLINE
7-speed
Double chainring
8-speed
Double chainring
9-speed
Double chainring
7-speed Triple chainring
8-speed
Triple chainring
9-speed
Triple chainring
27 – CHAINLINE
CHAINLINE CORRECTION 27 – 5
CHAINLINE-ERROR INSPECTION 27 – 5
MEASURING ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 27 – 6
MEASURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE 27 – 7
DETERMINE COURSE OF ACTION 27 – 8
CHAINLINE TROUBLESHOOTING 27 – 12
27 – CHAINLINE
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER

This chapter is about chainline. Chainline is the align-
GENERAL INFORMATION
ment between the chainrings and the rear cogs. By cen-
tering the rear cogs to the center of the chainring set, the TERMINOLOGY
chain will experience the minimum lateral deflection as it Chainline: The alignment between the rear cogset
is used in all the possible gear combinations. The benefits and the front chainring set (see figure 27.1).
of minimizing chain deflection are less drivetrain noise, Chainrings-in error: When there is an error in
less drivetrain wear, and better shifting. chainline, it could be because the chainrings are too far in
7-speed toward the center of the bike compared to the freewheel.
Double chainring This could be called either chainrings-in error or rear-cogs-out
error. Although they are the same thing, chainrings-in error
is used because chainline adjustments are easier to make
8-speed
Double chainring by moving the chainrings than by moving the rear cogs.
Chainrings-out error: When there is an error in
chainline, it could be because the chainrings are too far
9-speed
Double chainring out from the center of the bike compared to the freewheel.
This could be called either chainrings-out error or rear-cogs-in
error. Although they are the same thing, chainrings-out error
7-speed Triple chainring is used because chainline adjustments are easier to make
by moving the chainrings than by moving the rear cogs.
Chainring-set center: The center of the chainring
8-speed set is the point halfway between the innermost and out-
Triple chainring
ermost chainrings. If there are two chainrings, the center
is the center of the space between the two chainrings. If
9-speed there are three chainrings, the center is the center of the
Triple chainring middle chainring (see figure 27.1).
Lateral deflection (of chain): The twist of the
chain (in or out) that occurs when the chain goes from
27.1 Examples of perfect chainline. a chainring to a rear cog that is not directly in line with
Chainline is different from other aspects of bicycle the chainring. Lateral deflection increases chain friction,
mechanics. If two out of five indications point to a bot- wear, and noise.
tom bracket needing an overhaul, it would be prudent to Rear-cogset center: The point halfway between the
overhaul the bottom bracket. The same applies to adjust- innermost and outermost cogs. If the cogset has five cogs,
ing a derailleur, truing a wheel, or just about any other the center is the third cog from either end. If the cogset
procedure; however, it is not prudent to adjust chainline has six cogs, the center is the third space between cogs,
if it is uncertain that there is a problem. The difference is counting from either end. If the cogset has seven cogs,
that chainline error is difficult to measure accurately and the center is the fourth cog, counting from either end. If
extremely complicated to correct. Most bikes are quite the cogset has eight cogs, the center is the fourth space
tolerant of some chainline error, so it is a big mistake between cogs, counting from either end. If the cogset has
to measure for chainline error and then correct it only nine cogs, the center is the fifth cog, counting from either
because a quantifiable error exists. Unlike other procedures end. If the cogset has ten cogs, the center is the fifth space
in this book, the procedure in this chapter starts with an between cogs, counting from either end. See figure 27.1
inspection to determine whether any significant symptoms for 7-speed, 8-speed, and 9-speed examples with double
exist and only goes further if significant symptoms are and triple chainrings.
detected. Arbitrary correction of any detectable chainline
error is usually a mistake!
27 – 1
27 – CHAINLINE
PREREQUISITES solve the problem, then change the chainline by moving

the freewheel.
There are no prerequisites to determine whether there
If re-spacing a hub to move the freewheel to fix a
is a chainline error, what direction it is, and what size
chainline error, it is possible that the overall hub width
the error is. Correcting chainline can include moving the
will change and it will no longer fit the frame. In this case,
chainrings, moving the cassette or freewheel, and align-
frame alignment would also be needed.
ing the rear triangle of the frame. Each of these general
procedures can require several more specific procedures,
which are outlined below. INDICATIONS
Crank-arm removal Chainline does not have to be perfect, so measuring
In order to correct a chainline error, it may be nec- chainline just for the sake of preventative maintenance is
essary to replace a bottom bracket or bottom-bracket not recommended. Think about chainline only when there
spindle. Crank-arm removal is necessary to perform are symptoms that indicate chainline error or when making
these procedures. a change to a bike that can introduce chainline error.
There are a great number of changes that can be made
Bottom-bracket overhaul to a bicycle that can introduce symptoms of chainline
In order to correct a chainline error, it may be necessary error. Each time a change is made in one of the following
to replace a bottom bracket or bottom-bracket spindle. areas, operate the bike and observe whether any symptoms
Front-derailleur adjustment of chainline error have developed.
If the chainrings are moved in or out to correct a chain- Change: New crankset
line error, the front derailleur will need to be re-adjusted. Whether the crankset is going on an existing bottom
Freewheel removal bracket or comes with a new bottom bracket, there is
In order to correct a chainline error, it may be necessary no way to know whether the chainring position will be
to move the freewheel in or out. This is done by changing the same until after installation. If the position of the
the spacers on the hub axle. To overhaul the hub and change chainrings is different, check whether chainline-error
the spacers, it will be necessary to remove the freewheel. symptoms have developed.
If the hub is a freehub, then go directly to hub overhaul Change: New right crank arm
without removing anything in regard to the rear cogs. If replacing the right crank arm with one that is not
Hub overhaul identical, it may move the position of the chainrings. If
In order to move the freewheel in or out, it may be nec- the position of the chainrings is different, check whether
essary to re-space the hub axle, requiring a hub overhaul. chainline-error symptoms have developed.
Rear-derailleur adjustment Change: New bottom bracket

If the freewheel is moved in or out to correct a chainline If replacing the bottom bracket with one that is not
error, it will be necessary to re-adjust the rear derailleur. identical, it may move the position of the chainrings. If
the position of the chainrings is different, check whether
Wheel truing chainline-error symptoms have developed.
If re-spacing the hub, then the wheel may require
re-dishing. Change: New or reversed bottom-
bracket spindle
Rear-triangle alignment If replacing the bottom-bracket spindle with one
A chainline error is often caused by a misalignment of that is not identical or if just reversing an old one to
the rear triangle. Although an alignment problem can be improve the chainring or crank-arm clearance, it may
compensated for by moving the chainrings or rear cogs, change the position of the chainrings. If the position of
the ideal place to start is by correcting any rear-triangle- the chainrings is different, check whether chainline-error
alignment error. If this is not done and the chainline error symptoms have developed.
is corrected by other means, then when the rear triangle
gets aligned later for other reasons, the chainline could be Change: New rear wheel
lost. Frame alignment can only be done with steel frames. If replacing the rear wheel with one that is not iden-
With titanium, aluminum, and carbon-fiber frames, the tical, then the wheel may move the rear cogs further out
first choice of chainline-error correction should be mov- or in. If the position of the rear cogs from the frame is
ing the chainrings. If repositioning the chainrings does not different, check whether chainline-error symptoms have
developed.
27 – 2
27 – CHAINLINE
Change: New freewheel or freehub body Symptom: Chain makes popping or snap-
with different number of cogs ping sound as it feeds onto a chainring
Any time the number of rear cogs is changed, there is only in certain gear combinations
a new center to the cogset. Check whether chainline-error This chainrings-out symptom is most likely to occur
symptoms have developed. when the chain is on an outer chainring in front and one
Change: New spacing on rear hub of the inner rear cogs. If it goes away when shifting the
If changing the spacing on the rear axle to change the chain further out on the rear cogs and there is an identi-
fit of the wheel to the frame, to accommodate a differ- fiable chainline error, then it is fair to assume the problem
ent freewheel or freehub body, or to correct a clearance is chainline. If significant chainline error cannot be found
problem between the outermost rear cog and the frame, after experiencing this symptom, it could be caused by a
the position of the rear-cogset center will change. Check low-quality chain or chainring.
whether chainline-error symptoms have developed. Symptom: While shifting, chain derails to
Change: New chain inside of chainrings and front derailleur
As chains wear, they develop greater lateral flexibility. cannot be adjusted to eliminate problem
The degree of lateral flexibility differs from one model This chainrings-out symptom requires a very severe
of chain to another. A chain’s lateral flexibility determines chainline error on the average bike, but road-racing bikes
to what degree certain amounts of chainline error will be with eight-speed cogsets can be very sensitive to this error
tolerated. Check whether chainline-error symptoms have and may exhibit this symptom even when the error is not
developed after installing a new chain. large. The symptom generally occurs when the chain is on
Change: New rear-derailleur pulley the innermost rear cog and the front derailleur is shifting
to put the chain on the innermost chainring. Because this
wheels or new rear derailleur symptom can be caused by poor derailleur alignment and
One of the symptoms of chainline error is that the
limit-screw settings, first check the derailleur adjustment.
chain derails from the lower derailleur pulley wheel. Dif-
If the derailleur cannot be adjusted to eliminate the symp-
ferent pulley wheels engage the chain in varying degrees
tom without introducing the symptom of the chain being
of effectiveness. Anytime pulley wheels are changed, on
hesitant to shift to the innermost chainring (or rubbing
an old derailleur or by installing a new derailleur, check
the chain after the shift), then chainline is likely to be the
whether chainline-error symptoms have developed.
cause. With some of the eight-speed road-racing bikes,
Change: Newly aligned frame rear the symptom will not go away until the front-derailleur
triangle cage is modified to make it wider at the tail.
If changing the rear-triangle alignment to fix a tracking Symptom: While pedaling, chain derails
error or to have it fit the rear wheel differently, it will move
the center of the rear cogset. Check whether chainline-
to inside of chainrings
The symptom generally occurs when the chain is
error symptoms have developed.
on the innermost rear cog and the middle or innermost
Symptom: Chain derails to outside of chainring. It is most likely to occur when the chain is under
lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel only high load or when pedaling very fast (low load) and the
chain is bouncing (due to rough terrain or choppy pedaling
in certain gear combinations style). It is less likely to occur with the bike in the stand,
This symptom, which is one of the most likely
but will happen, particularly at high pedaling speeds.
symptoms resulting from the chainrings being too far
out relative to the rear cogs, is most likely to occur when Symptom: Chain derails to inside of
the chain is on an outer chainring in front and one of the lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel only
inner rear cogs. If it only happens when back pedaling and
self-corrects when pedaling forward, ignore it. If signifi-
in certain gear combinations
This symptom, which is one of the most likely symp-
cant chainline error cannot be found after experiencing
toms resulting from the chainrings being too far in, relative
this symptom, it could be caused by an incompatibility
to the rear cogs, is most likely to occur when the chain is on
between the chain and pulley wheel, an alignment error in
an inner chainring in front and one of the outer rear cogs.
the rear-derailleur hanger, or damage to the rear derailleur
If it only happens when back pedaling and self-corrects
that affects the alignment of the rear-derailleur cage.
when pedaling forward, ignore it. If significant chainline
error cannot be found after experiencing this symptom,
27 – 3
27 – CHAINLINE
it may be caused by an incompatibility between the chain
and pulley wheel, an alignment error to the rear-derailleur
TIME AND DIFFICULTY
hanger, or damage to the rear derailleur that affects the Chainline-error inspection
alignment of the rear-derailleur cage. It only takes a couple of minutes to put the bike in a
stand and run it through all the gear combinations to see
Symptom: Chain rubs against adjacent if there are any symptoms. There is no difficulty.
cog only in certain gear combinations
This chainrings-in symptom is most likely to occur when Chainline-error identification
the chain is on an inner chainring and one of the outer Measuring chainline error takes only 3–5 minutes. The
rear cogs. If this symptom is caused by incorrect spacing job has moderate difficulty.
between rear cogs or use of a wide chain with narrow- Chainline-error correction
spaced cogs, it will not go away when the chain is shifted All the difficulty with chainline comes with correction.
to an outer chainring. At the minimum, chainline correction is a matter of over-
Symptom: Chain rubs against hauling a bottom bracket to reverse the spindle or put in a
different one. With crank-arm removal and installation and
adjacent chainring only in certain re-adjustment of the front derailleur, this could easily be a
gear combinations 45–60-minute job of moderate to high difficulty. It may be
This chainrings-in symptom is most likely to occur when necessary to overhaul the rear hub to re-space the rear axle,
the chain is on an inner chainring in front and one of and that will also require rear-derailleur adjustment and re-
the outer rear cogs. If the chainrings have been recently dishing the rear wheel. This could be 75–100-minute job,
installed on the crank arm, then spacers may be out of and the difficulty would be high. Neither of these options
place. If the chainrings and crank arm did not come includes alignment of the rear triangle, which could add
together as a set, they may be incompatible. an additional 15–30 minutes.
TOOL CHOICES COMPLICATIONS

There is one tool, the Park CLG-2, that is not rec-
ommended due to limitations of its accuracy and limited Chainrings will not move far enough
conditions in which it fits well. In some cases, a long enough bottom-bracket spindle
There are two alternate procedures for measuring to move the chainrings out far enough to correct the
chainline in this chapter. chainline error may not be available. In other cases, in
The first procedure (page 27-6) uses the Stein CLC-2. order to move the chainrings in far enough to correct the
The procedure utilizing this tool is both easier and more chainline error, the chainrings or crank arm might end up
accurate than the second procedure (included due to rubbing against the frame. In all these cases, after cor-
unpredictable availability of Stein CLC-2). recting chainline at the chainrings as far as is possible, the
The alternate procedure (page 27-7) requires the fol- chainline correction needs to be continued by changing the
lowing tools. None of them are bicycle-specialty tools. rear-cogset position (which could include hub re-spacing,
Caliper wheel dishing, and frame alignment).
Quick Grip clamp (hardware stores or United Poor frame alignment is causing the
Bicycle Tool)
2' long, 3/8" square bar stock (hardware store)
problem, but frame cannot be aligned
Non-steel frames and many full-suspension frames
The square bar stock is used as a straight edge. A
cannot be aligned. This limits correction to moving the
conventional straight edge made from flat stock (like a
chainrings and shifting spacers from one side of the hub
ruler) will not work. Instead of a solid bar stock, square
to the other in order to move the cogset.
tubing may be used. The stock or tubing may be 1/2"
instead of the preferred 3/8" size. Moving chainrings solves chainline
Another tool used in both procedures is the Park symptom, but front derailleur will not
FAG-2. This tool is used to measure the rear-triangle
alignment of the frame. It is a recommended tool in the
adjust to new position
If the chainrings end up too far out or too close in, the
chapter FRAME AND FORK ALIGNMENT AND DAMAGE.
front derailleur may have difficulty shifting to the inner-
most or outermost chainring. In this case, the derailleur
27 – 4
27 – CHAINLINE
may need to be changed or the chainrings moved less and If a chain refuses to shift down to the innermost
additional chainline correction done at the rear cogs. chainring without jumping off all the way to the bottom-
bracket shell, chainline error can be the culprit. This is tested
ABOUT THE REST for in step #3. It can also be caused by poor front-derailleur
adjustment, including inner-limit screw too loose (allowing
OF THIS CHAPTER to much inward travel of the front derailleur) and poor
The rest of this chapter is has two sections. The next rotational alignment of the front derailleur. This symptom
section is CHAINLINE CORRECTION, which includes proce- has been experienced on road-racing bikes with eight-speed
dures for identifying chainline-error symptoms, measuring rear cogsets when the derailleur adjustments and chainline
chainline error (two methods), and determining a course were good. In this case, the only solution is to deform the
of action for chainline-error correction. After determining front-derailleur cage so that its tail end is 2–3mm wider
the course of action to be taken, refer to the appropriate and then re-adjust the rotation and limit screws of the
chapters for crank-arm removal, bottom-bracket service, front derailleur.
and front-derailleur adjustment; or hub overhaul, wheel Because this next symptom can’t even be con-
dish, and rear-derailleur adjustment. The last section is sidered as a chainline-error symptom unless all these
CHAINLINE TROUBLESHOOTING. front-derailleur considerations are eliminated, attempt
everything possible with the front derailleur before
performing the test in step #3.
3. For this next test, it is important that front
CHAINLINE CORRECTION derailleur be in known good adjustment.
[ ] Shift chain onto innermost rear cog and
innermost chainring and check that inner
CHAINLINE-ERROR INSPECTION plate of front-derailleur cage clears inner
face of chain by ≤1mm.
It is unnecessary and not recommended to correct
chainline error unless there is a symptom indicating one [ ] Shift chain onto next chainring outward.
[ ] Shift chain back to inner chainring and
exists. Do not skip the steps to determine if symptoms
observe whether chain drops past chainring
exist unless already experiencing one of the symptoms and onto bottom-bracket shell. If yes, go to
or troubleshooting in another chapter has led you to this MEASURING ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6)
chapter to correct a chainline error. or MEASURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page
Any of these symptoms can be caused by something other than 27-7) and check for chainrings-out error.
a chainline error. After determining the symptom exists, 4. [ ] Shift chain onto outermost rear cog and
identify whether a significant error exists in a direction that innermost chainring. Pedal fast, then slow,
is consistent with the symptom. If this cannot be done and observe whether chain rides off of lower
before correcting any chainline error, check and correct pulley wheel of rear derailleur. If yes, go to
any other possible causes of the symptom(s). MEASURING ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) or
NOTE: If symptom indicating chainrings-out or MEASURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 27-
chainrings-in error is already known, go to MEA- 7) and check for chainrings-in error.
SURING ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) or MEA- 5. [ ] Shift chain onto outermost rear cog and
SURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 27-7). innermost chainring, pedal slowly, and
1. [ ] Shift chain onto outermost chainring and observe whether chain rubs against the next
innermost rear cog and pedal fast, then slow, rear cog. If yes, go to MEASURING ERROR WITH
and observe whether chain rides off of lower STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) or MEASURING ERROR
pulley wheel of rear derailleur. If yes, go to WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 27-7) and check for
MEASURING ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) chainrings-in error.
or MEASURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 6. [ ] Shift chain onto outermost rear cog and
27-7) and check for chainrings-out error. innermost chainring, pedal slowly, and
2. [ ] Shift chain onto outermost chainring and observe whether chain rubs against the
innermost rear cog, pedal slowly, and next front chainring. If yes, go to MEASURING
observe whether chain side-plates catch on ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) or MEASUR-
top of chainring teeth before chain rollers ING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 27-7) and
settle between teeth. If yes, go to MEASURING check for chainrings-in error.
ERROR WITH STEIN CLC-2 (page 27-6) or MEASUR-
ING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE (page 27-7) and
check for chainrings-out error.
27 – 5
27 – CHAINLINE
MEASURING ERROR WITH 7. [ ] Place tool on outer chainring so that it is on

outer face of chainring and adjacent to crank
STEIN CLC-2 arm. Left end of tool should be at rear cogs
and not interfering with frame.
NOTE: Go to MEASURING ERROR WITH STRAIGHT EDGE
(page 27-7) if not using Stein CLC-2. NOTE: Skip step 8 if using non-digital caliper!
The Stein CLC-2, in conjunction with a caliper, is To use the table in step #8, simply look up the intersec-
a relatively accurate and easy-to-use tool for measuring tion of the row for the number of chainrings on the bike
chainline error. The tool consists of two parts: a main bar with the column for the number of rear cogs on the bike.
that attaches to the chainrings and extends back to the rear 8. [ ] Set digital caliper to appropriate value from
table below (in millimeters), then zero caliper.
cogs and a machinist’s rule that is butted against the rear
cogs in order to take an error reading. It is preferable to STEIN CLC-2 CHAINLINE VALUES (table 27-1)
use a caliper instead of the machinist’s rule. Rear cogs: 5 6 7 8 9 10
The procedure is designed with the assumption that 2 chainrings 38.9 40.1 41.3 43.5 43.7 45.0
a digital caliper is being used, but there are extra steps at 3 chainrings 42.6 43.8 45.0 47.2 47.4 48.7
the end that make the procedure work with a non-digital
caliper or the machinist’s rule, as well. In step #9, a measurement is taken from the outer face
For optimal accuracy, the tool should be put in four of the main bar to the outer face of the innermost cog.
different locations on the chainrings and the results Start with the tip of the depth gauge extended from the
averaged. This neutralizes error created by out-of-true caliper by a much larger amount than the distance from
chainrings. If the chainrings have excellent true, then one the face of the main bar to the innermost cog. Rest the tip
reading should be sufficient. If four readings will be taken, of the depth gauge against the face of the innermost cog
be sure to start with one end of the tool immediately adja- (avoiding shift-ramp recesses and the tapered faces of the
cent to the crank arm so that the additional readings can teeth). Carefully slide the main caliper rule in until it just
be taken at 90° intervals around the chainrings. contacts the main bar of the CLC-2 (avoiding pressing
When attaching the main bar to the chainrings, note that against the main bar enough to cause it to deflect).
the chainring teeth are to be sandwiched between the flange 2. Touch caliper to
on the inner end of each clamp mechanism and the large face of main bar
spacer that is adjacent to the inner face of the main bar.
1. Adjust tip of depth gauge

27.2 Attach the Stein CLC-2 to the outer chainring so to outside face of cog
the tool is outside the chainring and the left end of the
tool is in front of the cassette and not interfering with
the frame. For the first measurement, start with the
right end of the tool close to the crank arm.
Clamp knob
Spacer
Screw head
and washer
27.4 Measure from the face of the main bar to the
outside face of the innermost rear cog with calipers.
9. [ ] Set depth gauge against outer face of
innermost rear cog and adjust butt of caliper
until it is just against face of CLC-2, then
Main bar record 1st reading in step 10.
27.3 Position the tool so the main bar and spacers are [ ] Move tool to a position 8–10 teeth away from
on the outer side of the outer chainring and the washers its current position, repeat measurement, then
and screw heads are against the inner face of the outer record 2nd reading in step 10.
chainring teeth. [ ] Move tool to a position 8–10 teeth away
27 – 6
27 – CHAINLINE
from its current position, repeat mea-
surement, then record 3rd reading in step 10.
[ ] Move tool to a position 8–10 teeth away
from its current position, repeat mea-
surement, then record 4th reading in step 10.
Step #10 calculates the actual chainline error if a
Quick Grip clamp
digital caliper has been used. If not using a digital caliper,
then use the result in step #10 as part of the calculation
in steps #11 – #13. NOTE: Regardless of whether the
actual error is determined in step #10 or step #13, a
Clamp this end of straight
positive error means the chainrings are positioned edge flat to face of chainring
too far out relative to the rear cogs, and a negative
error means the chainrings are positioned too far in
relative to the rear cogs.
10. [ ] Add readings recorded below, then divide by
4 to find chainline error.
1st reading: _______mm Straight edge
2nd reading: _______mm
3rd reading: _______mm
4th reading: _______mm
TOTAL _______mm
Divide by 4 ÷4
Chainline error: _______mm (result)
NOTE: Steps 11–13 are only needed if a non-
digital caliper or machinist’s rule was used. Place this end of straight
11. [ ] Look up appropriate value in table 27-1 edge on top of rear cogs
(page 27-6) and record here: ________mm
12. [ ] Subtract step 10 result: –________mm
13. [ ] Chainline error is: ________mm 27.5 Attaching the straight edge to the outer chainring
with a Quick Grip clamp.
MEASURING ERROR WITH 15. [ ] Attach straight edge against outer face of out-
ermost chainring so that end of straight edge
STRAIGHT EDGE stops just short of rear dropout and straight
edge goes across face of chainring at what-
NOTE: Go to DETERMINE COURSE OF ACTION (page 27-
8) if error was measured with Stein CLC-2. ever point enables straight edge to sit flat.
14. [ ] Shift chain to any middle cog in rear and Butt end of caliper against
drop chain off inside of innermost chainring. face of straight edge
Attaching the straight edge
The following procedure is only as accurate as the
outer chainring is straight. Every effort should be made
to align the outer chainring as straight as possible before
measuring the chainline error. Chainring alignment is
described in the PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter (page Adjust tip of depth
20-10) and the CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-13). Most gauge to inside
chainrings have a reasonably flat outer face; chainrings face of chainring
that have bumps and protrusions on their face will make 27.6 Measure from outer face of straight edge to inner
this procedure less accurate. The straight edge needs to be face of innermost chainring.
clamped against the face of the outer chainring near the 16. [ ] Use caliper to measure from outside face
top, and the left end of the straight edge should extend of straight edge to inside face of innermost
back as far as possible without encountering resistance chainring and record here: ______mm
from the seat stay or dropout. In the next step, use the long jaws of the caliper to
measure from the outside face of the outermost chainring to
27 – 7
27 – CHAINLINE
the inside face of the innermost chainring. Take care to hold to the inside face of the innermost rear cog. Take care to
the calipers perpendicular to the plane of the chainrings. hold the calipers perpendicular to the plane of the cogs.
.5
.4
.6
.7
.3
.2
.8
.1
Align caliper butt to

.9 0
0
.1
.9
face of outer cog

.8
.2
.3
.7
.6
.4
.5
2
1
0
Align jaw with inner face

of innermost chainring
Align tip of depth gauge
with inside face of cog
27.9 Measure from the face of the outermost rear cog
to the inside face of the innermost rear cog with calipers.
27.7 Measure from the outside face of the outermost
chainring to the inside face of the innermost chainring 20. [ ] Measure width of rear cogset with caliper
with calipers. from outer face of outer cog to inner face of
17. [ ] Measure width of chainring set with caliper inner cog, then record here and divide by 2:
from outer face of outer chainring to inner width: ______ ÷2 = ______mm
face of inner chainring, then record here and 21. [ ] Subtract result at end of step 20 from step
divide by 2: width: ______ ÷2 = ______mm 19 and record sum here:
18. [ ] Subtract result at end of step 17 from step REAR CENTER FACTOR = ______mm
16 and record sum here: 22. [ ] Repeat FRONT CENTER FACTOR from step
FRONT CENTER FACTOR = ______mm 18 here: – ______mm
In the next step, use the depth gauge of the caliper to The sum in step #23 may end up as a positive or nega-
measure from the outside face of the straight edge to the tive number. If the number is positive, then the chainrings
inside face of the innermost rear cog. Take care to hold are further out from the bike center than the rear cogset.
the calipers perpendicular to the plane of the cogs. Chainline-error symptoms consistent with a chainrings-out
condition might be fixed by correcting the problem, unless
Butt caliper against
the error is insignificant (less than 1mm). If the number
face of straight edge
is negative, then the chainrings are closer in to the bike
center than the rear cogset. Chainline-error symptoms
consistent with a chainrings-in condition might be fixed by
correcting the problem, unless the error is insignificant
(less than 1mm).
23. [ ] Subtract step 22 from step 21:
CHAINLINE ERROR = ______mm
Adjust tip of depth gauge
to inside face of cog
DETERMINE COURSE OF ACTION
If frame will not be aligned
If not intending to align the frame, even if there is
an error, then skip to step #31 (page 27-10). This may be
because the frame is not steel or because the shop does
not align frames.
Measuring rear-triangle-alignment error
27.8 Measure from the face of the straight edge to the The procedure in steps #24 – #29 is an abbreviated
inside face of the innermost rear cog with calipers.
procedure for checking rear-triangle alignment. In the
19. [ ] Use caliper to measure from outside face of FRAME AND FORK ALIGNMENT AND DAMAGE chapter
straight edge to inside face of innermost rear there is a detailed procedure and diagrams of this pro-
cog and record here: ______mm
cess (page 8-4). It is strongly recommended that you be
In the next step, use the depth gauge of the caliper to
familiar with rear-triangle alignment before performing
measure from the outside face of the outermost rear cog
27 – 8
27 – CHAINLINE
steps #24 – #29. These steps are also mentioned in the Contact
PREREQUISITES section of this chapter (page 27-2).
When measuring the rear-triangle-centering error,
there will be a measurement that tells the difference in one
dropout position relative to the central plane of the bike
compared to the other dropout’s position relative to the
central plane of the bike. This measurement will be arrived
at by measuring the gap between the adjustable tip of the
tool and the face of a dropout. Whatever the gap is, the cogs
will move by one half the amount of the gap when the rear
Gap?
triangle is aligned perfectly. If the gap is found at the right
dropout, the rear cogs will move to the right. If the gap is
at the left dropout, the rear cogs will move to the left.
Contact
Gap?
27.11 Transfer the tool to the right side of the frame,

check whether there is a gap, and if so, check whether
it is at the seat tube or dropout.
Contact
FAG-2
Dropout
Adjust
Feeler gauges
Contact
27.10 This drawing shows the initial set up of the

FAG-2 on the left side of the bike. 27.12 When a gap at the dropout is found, measure
the gap with feeler gauges.
24. [ ] Place long flat section of Park FAG-2 against
left side of head tube and seat tube so 25. Transfer FAG-2 to right side of bike and
adjustable tip is overlapping face of rear observe whether:
dropout. Adjust tool tip so that it gently con- [ ] Tool contacts simultaneously at head
tacts dropout face. tube, seat tube, and right rear dropout face.
There is no rear-triangle-centering error.
It is arbitrary which side to start on when using the
[ ] Tool contacts at head tube and right rear
FAG-2 tool, but the procedure starts on the left. If the rear
dropout and has gap at seat tube. There
triangle is off-center to the left, then it will show up as a gap is some rear-triangle-centering error and
at the right dropout. If the rear triangle happens to be off adjusting tip must be set so that tool contacts
to the right, then a gap will show up at the seat tube on the at three points on right side, then transferred
right side. In this case, since the error cannot be quantified to left so error can be measured at left rear
at this point, it will be necessary to reset the tool on the right dropout. Check third part of this step also.
so that the gap will show up at the left dropout. [ ] Adjustable tip shows gap at rear dropout
face (either). With stack of feeler gauges or
caliper, measure gap between tip of FAG-2
and dropout face and record here: ______mm
left side? or right side? (circle one)
27 – 9
27 – CHAINLINE
26. [ ] If measurement in step 25 is ≤2mm, the and then test for symptoms before deciding to make any
effect of rear-triangle alignment on chainline additional correction at the rear cogs.
error would be negligible. Leave rear triangle 31. [ ] Use stack of feeler gauges to measure gap
as is and skip to step 31. between chain stay and closest part of right
27. [ ] If gap is between FAG-2 adjustable tip and crank-arm/chainring assembly and record
right dropout face, correcting rear triangle here: __________mm
will move rear cogset out by half amount of 32. [ ] Subtract 2mm from number in step 31 and
gap recorded in step 25. This would have record answer here: __________mm
same effect as moving chainrings in by 33. [ ] Number in step 32 is maximum chainring
same amount. correction. If this number is more than 1mm
28. [ ] If gap is between FAG-2 adjustable tip and left less than the number in step 10, 13, or 23,
dropout face, correcting rear triangle will move moving chainrings in to limit will not com-
rear cogset in by half amount of gap recorded plete chainline-error correction (continue at
in step 25. This would have same effect as cogset).
moving chainrings out by same amount. 34. [ ] If number in step 32 is <.5mm, chainline
29. [ ] If rear-triangle-alignment error is significant correction by moving chainrings is not pos-
and frame is steel, consider aligning rear tri- sible. Go to step 42.
angle before doing any other chainline-error
corrections. Determine best replacement bottom-
30. [ ] If rear triangle has been aligned after discov- bracket spindle to correct error
ering chainline error, repeat steps 1–23 to Bottom-bracket and bottom-bracket-spindle inter-
determine if symptoms remain and amount changeability is complex. The next steps simply accumu-
and direction of remaining chainline error. late the necessary information to calculate what bottom
Calculate maximum correction possible bracket or bottom-bracket spindle would be better, but they
for moving chainrings in do not do actual calculations. To calculate the appropriate
If performing a frame alignment has not solved replacement spindle, use the procedures detailed throughout
the chainline error, the best place to continue to solve chapters 9 or 10, depending on the type of bottom bracket
the chainline error is at the chainrings. If there is no that is in the bike with the chainline problem.
frame-alignment error, the best place to start making Steps #35 and #36 refer to a number recorded in
chainline-error corrections is still at the chainrings. If step #10, #13, or #23 (expressed as step 10/13/23). A
you are not aligning the frame because the frame is not value should have been recorded in only one of these
suitable (or it is not shop policy to align frames), the steps, since each of these steps is for a different method
best place to start making chainline-error corrections of calculating chainline error. For steps #35 and #36,
is at the chainrings. Chainrings may be moved in or use the value from whichever of steps #10, #13, or #23
out by changing the bottom-bracket spindle. The only was completed.
35. [ ] If chainrings-in error exists, number in step
practical limit to how far the chainrings can be moved 10/13/23 is amount new bottom-bracket
out is the size of the available spindles. The limit to how spindle should move chainrings out. Record
far the crank-arm/chainring assembly can be moved in again here: __________mm
is the potential of the crank arm or chainrings to rub 36. [ ] If chainrings-out error exists, smaller of two
the frame. The clearance between the frame and the numbers in steps 10/13/23 or 33 is amount
crank-arm/chainring assembly must be 2mm or more to new bottom-bracket spindle should move
account for the amount that the chainrings, crank arm, chainrings in. Record again here: ______mm
and frame flex under load. The next steps measure the 37. [ ] Remove bottom-bracket and record all mark-
existing clearance and determine the maximum amount ings that might identify existing bottom
bracket or bottom-bracket spindle. Record
the chainrings can move in.
brand and markings here:
If the maximum amount the chainrings can move is _________________________________________
not enough to eliminate the symptom, then resort to the 38. [ ] Go to table on page 9-12, 9-18, 10-7,
more difficult solution of moving the rear cogs. Keep in 10-8, 10-9, or 10-10 to determine acceptable
mind that the chainrings do not necessarily have to be replacement bottom brackets or spindles.
moved enough to make the chainline perfect, only enough NOTE: Correct table is determined by type of
to eliminate the symptom. For this reason, always move the bottom bracket or bottom-bracket spindle. If
chainrings as much as possible to achieve perfect chainline, unsure of which table to use, chapters 9 and
10 should be studied carefully.
27 – 10
27 – CHAINLINE
Determine if symptoms remain after 42. If rear cogs need to move out (chainrings
could not be moved in enough) to correct
correcting error by moving chainrings remaining chainline error:
Once the chainrings are moved, it is necessary to see if [ ] Amount of error recorded in repeated step
symptoms persist. If the error was fully corrected but the 10/13/23 is amount of spacer thickness that
symptoms persist, look for other causes. If the error was needs to be transferred from right side of
not fully corrected but the symptoms are gone, chainline axle set to left side of axle set. Clearance of
correction is done. If the error was not fully corrected chain to frame when chain is on outermost
and the symptoms remain, go ahead to moving the rear rear cog or shifting from outermost rear cog
cogs to further correct chainline. to the next cog should be checked. Wheel
39. [ ] Repeat steps 1–6 to determine if chainline- needs to be re-dished, and rear derailleur
error symptoms remain after making full needs adjustment after transferring spacers.
or partial correction of error by moving [ ] If spacers unavailable to transfer from
chainrings. right side of axle to left side of axle, amount
40. [ ] If error symptoms remain, repeat steps of error in repeated step 10/13/23 is half
7–23 to determine direction and amount of amount of spacer thickness that needs
of remaining error. If error is ≤1mm or is to be added to left side of axle set. Wheel
in wrong direction to create symptom, see needs to be re-dished, rear triangle must
INDICATIONS (page 27-2) or CHAINLINE TROUBLE- be realigned (not an option unless frame is
SHOOTING (page 27-12) to determine other steel), and rear derailleur needs adjustment
possible causes of symptom. after adding spacers.
Error and symptoms remain after Determine if symptoms remain after

moving chainrings as much as possible correcting error by moving rear cogs
Symptoms indicating chainline error may be caused
and significant error remains by a variety of problems other than chainline error. After
Steps #41, #42, and #43 refer to repeated step #10,
checking that chainline error has been eliminated, check
#13, or #23 (expressed as step 10/13/23). After attempt-
if any symptoms remain (steps #1 – #6). If symptoms
ing a chainline correction, a new value should only have
remain, it is time to look toward other things as the source
been recorded in one of these steps, since each of these
of the symptoms. The other things that cause symptoms
steps is for a different method of calculating chainline
similar to chainline error are covered in the INDICATIONS
error. For steps #41, #42, and #43, use the value from
section (page 27-2) and the CHAINLINE TROUBLESHOOTING
whichever of steps #10, #13, or #23 was completed when
section (page 27-12).
the chainline error was remeasured. 43. [ ] Repeat steps 1–6 to determine if chainline-
41. If rear cogs need to move in (chainrings error symptoms remain after making com-
could not be moved out enough) to correct plete correction of error. If they do, see
remaining chainline error: INDICATIONS (page 27-2) or CHAINLINE TROUBLE-
[ ] Amount of error recorded in repeated SHOOTING (page 27-12) to determine other
step 10/13/23 is amount of spacer thick- possible causes of symptom.
ness that needs to be transferred from left
side of axle to right side of axle. Wheel
needs to be re-dished, and rear derailleur
needs adjustment after transferring spacers.
[ ] If spacers are unavailable to transfer from
left side of axle to right side of axle, the
amount of error in repeated step 10/13/23
is half of amount of spacer thickness that
needs to be added to right side of axle set.
Wheel needs to be re-dished, rear triangle
must be realigned (not an option unless
frame is steel), and rear derailleur needs
adjustment after adding spacers.
27 – 11
27 – CHAINLINE
CHAINLINE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 27-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When pedaling in a gear combination that has the chain on one of the outer rear cogs and
the innermost chainring, the chain comes off the lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel and rides against the
rear-derailleur-cage plate.
Chainrings are too far in relative to rear cogs and Check for chainrings-in error and correct if signifi-
lateral force on chain is forcing it to derail from cant and in the correct direction.
lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel.
If lower derailleur pulley wheel or chain was changed Replace lower pulley wheel with brand or model that
just before symptom developed, they are incompatible, has tall teeth, or replace chain with model that has
particularly if both are a low-profile configuration. side-plates protruding above rollers.
If chainline is good or error is in the opposite Check and correct rear-derailleur-hanger alignment.
direction to what would normally cause this
symptom, the derailleur hanger is misaligned.
If chainline is not the cause, pulley wheel/chain Align rear-derailleur cage or replace rear derailleur.
compatibility is not an issue, and the rear-derailleur-
hanger alignment is good, then the rear-derailleur
cage is bent.
the innermost front chainring, the chain seems to rub on the next inboard rear cog.
The chainrings are too far in, relative to the rear Check for chainrings-in error and correct if signifi-
cogs, and the angle of the chain to the innermost cant and in the correct direction.
chainrings is more than the space between the
rear cogs will allow without interference between
the chain and an adjacent cog.
If chainline is good or error is in wrong direction, Check and correct spacers between cogs.
spacers could be wrong between cogs, particu-
larly if cogs have recently been installed.
If chainline is good or error is in the wrong direction, Check that chain width is correct for number of
chain could be wrong width for cogset, particularly if cogs, then replace chain if width is wrong.
either chain or cogset has been replaced.
the innermost front chainring, the chain seems to rub on the next chainring out.
The chainrings are too far in relative to the rear Check for chainrings-in error and correct if signifi-
cogs, and the angle of the chain to the outer rear cant and in the correct direction.
cog is more than the space between the chainrings
will allow without interference between the chain
and the adjacent chainring.
If chainline is good or error is in the wrong Check and correct spacers between chainrings, or
direction, spacers could be wrong between replace chainrings with ones that are compatible
chainrings, particularly if chainrings have recently with crank arm.
been installed. A likely cause is the use of
chainrings made for a 9-speed chain installed on a
non-9-speed crank arm, or vice versa. One more
cause of this is if chainrings with shift ramps have
been installed on a older crank arm made before
shift ramps existed.
If chainline is good or error is in the wrong Check that chain width is correct for chainring
direction, wrong-width chain could be in use with type (9-speed or 10-speed), then replace chain if
9-speed or 10-speed chainring set, particularly if width is wrong.
either chain or chainring set has just been replaced.
Continued
27 – 12
27 – CHAINLINE
CHAINLINE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 27-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When pedaling in a gear combination that has the chain on one of the inner rear cogs and
the outermost chainring, the chain comes off the lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel and rides against
the rear-derailleur-cage plate.
Chainrings are too far out relative to rear cogs and Check for chainrings-out error and correct if signifi-
lateral force on chain is forcing it to derail from cant and in the correct direction.
lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel.
If lower rear-derailleur pulley wheel or chain was Replace lower pulley wheel with brand or model
changed just before symptom developed, they are that has tall teeth, or replace chain with model
incompatible, particularly if both are a low-profile that has side-plates protruding above rollers.
configuration.
If chainline is good or error is in opposite direc- Check and correct rear-derailleur-hanger alignment.
tion to what would normally cause this symptom,
derailleur hanger is misaligned.
If chainline is not the cause, pulley wheel/chain Align rear-derailleur cage or replace rear derailleur.
compatibility is not an issue, and rear-derailleur-
hanger alignment is good, then rear-derailleur cage
is bent.
SYMPTOM: The chain seems to snap or pop onto the chainring teeth when pedaling in a gear combina-
tion that has the chain on one of the inner rear cogs and on the outermost chainring.
Chainrings are too far out relative to rear cogs, Check for chainrings-out error and correct if signifi-
and chain side-plates are hanging up on top of cant and in the correct direction.
chainring teeth before chain drops into place.
Chain is wiggly or bent. Sight down length of chain to inspect for wiggles.
New, cheap, steel chainrings have sharp edges to Should go away with break-in.
teeth that are catching on chain side-plates.
SYMPTOM: The front derailleur cannot be adjusted to eliminate the tendency of the chain to drop past
the innermost chainring when shifting to it, particularly when the chain is on one of the inner rear cogs.
The chainrings are too far out relative to the rear Check for chainrings-out error and correct if signifi-
cogs, and the lateral force on the chain is causing cant and in the correct direction.
it to whip past the inner chainring once it is free of
the next chainring out.
If chainline is good, front derailleur is out of Check front-derailleur height, front-derailleur rota-
adjustment. tional alignment, and inner-limit screw setting of
front derailleur.
If chainline and front-derailleur adjustment are Modify width of tail of front-derailleur cage (widen)
good, and bike is a road-racing model with eight to retard front-derailleur performance.
or more rear cogs, front-derailleur performance
is too good.
27 – 13
BARNETT’S MANUAL
5TH EDITION
VOLUME 3:
HANDLEBARS, SEATS,
SHIFT SYSTEMS,
and BRAKES
by John Barnett,

by John Barnett

Volume 3: Handlebars, Seats, Shift Systems, and Brakes
the publisher.
Printed in the USA
VeloPress
1830 N. 55th Street


GUIDE TO VOLUMES
Volume 3 of Barnett’s Manual covers a variety of topics, including handlebars, seats, shift systems, brake systems,
and suspension systems. The seats and handlebar chapters cover installation of seats, seat posts, stems, and handlebars. The
shifting-systems chapters cover installation and service of shift-control mechanisms, cable systems, rear derailleurs, and front
derailleurs. The chapters on brakes cover installation and service of brake levers for all styles of bikes, installation and service
of brake-cable systems, and installation and service of sidepull, dual-pivot, cantilever and transverse-wire brakes (V-brakes).
In addition, the brake chapters cover installation and service of hydraulic rim brakes and disc brakes. The suspension chapter
covers service of a wide variety of recent and current suspension forks and rear shocks.
There, of course, are a few unavoidable exceptions. For example, in this volume, in the directions for adjusting a brake, a
reference is made to a procedure in chapter 12 (Volume 1) for adjusting the hub bearing (to prepare for brake adjustment).
The contents below provides an exact list of what is covered in this volume, chapter by chapter, and a general idea of

CHAPTERS 1 — 15

CHAPTERS 16 — 27

28 — HANDLEBARS, STEMS, AND HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS
29 — SEATS AND SEATPOSTS
30 — DERAILLEUR CONTROLS
31 — DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS
32 — REAR DERAILLEURS
33 — FRONT DERAILLEURS
34 — BRAKE LEVERS
35 — BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS
36 — RIM BRAKES
37 — DISC BRAKES

CHAPTERS 38 — 39
28 – HANDLEBARS, STEMS, AND HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS
Highest (reach flat)
Xº
Lowest
MA
X. H T.
MA
X. H T.
(grip flat)
Yº
Ideal position (Xº=Yº) Acceptable range
Flat (0º)
Flat (0º)
Acceptable range
Acceptable range
Down 5º
Down 5º
Unacceptable
Unacceptable
STEM REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION 28 – 5
STEM REMOVAL 28 – 5
STEM REPLACEMENT 28 – 6
STEM INSTALLATION 28 – 7
HANDLEBAR REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION 28 – 8
DROP-BAR-HANDLEBAR REMOVAL 28 – 8
0FF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR REMOVAL 28 – 9
HANDLEBAR REPLACEMENT 28 – 9
DROP-HANDLEBAR INSTALLATION 28 – 9
OFF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR INSTALLATION 28 – 10
INSTALLING HANDLEBAR CLIP-ONS AND EXTENSIONS 28 – 11
DROP-BAR-CLIP-ONS 28 – 11
0FF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS 28 – 12
HANDLEBAR-COVERING REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 28 – 13
OFF-ROAD GRIPS 28 – 13
DROP-BAR TAPING 28 – 13
OTHER BAR SYSTEMS 28 – 14
BMX/FREESTYLE 28 – 14
UPRIGHT BARS 28 – 15
HANDLEBAR AND STEM TROUBLESHOOTING 28 – 16
28 – HANDLEBARS, STEMS,
AND HANDLEBAR EXTENSIONS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER compress on the handlebar. There is also a compression

slot in the fork column bore of some stems that are used
This chapter is about stems, handlebars, handlebar
in threadless headsets (see page 11-12).
extensions and clip-ons, and handlebar coverings. With
regard to stems, it covers removing stems from the bike, Rea
ch
fitting stems to the bike, installing and aligning the stem, and
problems with stems. With regard to handlebars, it covers
removing handlebars from the stem, fitting handlebars to Drop
X. H
the stem, installing and aligning the handlebars, and prob-

T.
MA
lems with handlebars. With regard to handlebar extensions Grip

and clip-ons installation, alignment and security are covered.
Each of these subjects simultaneously addresses road and off- Ferrule
road varieties. With regard to handlebar coverings, there are
instructions for installing and removing off-road handlebar
ch
grips and road-bike handlebar tape.
Rea
Supplemental information about BMX/Freestyle

bars and stems and upright (touring and cruiser) styles is
also included. There are no specific procedures included
for these types.
One type of stem is not covered in this chapter. Bikes
with a threaded fork column have a headset that threads 28.1 Parts of a drop bar.
onto the fork column and a stem that inserts inside the Drop bar: The traditional road-bike handlebar that
fork column (often called a “quill” stem). Bikes with a goes out from the stem, hooks forward, then curves
threadless fork column have a headset that slides onto the down and back.
fork column and a stem that clamps onto the fork column Handlebar: The tube that is gripped in the hands
where it extends above the headset. Because the stem in and to which the brake levers and shift levers are usu-
this system functions as a lock for the headset adjustment, ally mounted.
it is covered in the HEADSETS chapter in the sections for Handlebar-binder bolt: The bolt that compresses
threadless headsets. Removal is on page 11-12. Installation, the handlebar bore to secure the handlebar in the stem
which is part of installing a threadless fork and adjusting (see figure 28.2, page 28-2).
the headset, starts on page 11-24. Handlebar bore: The hole through the stem into
which the handlebar goes (see figure 28.2, page 28-2).
Handlebar clip-on: A forward extension of the
GENERAL INFORMATION handlebar that can be mounted to a drop bar to enable

the rider to ride in a more aerodynamic position.
Handlebar extension: The forward extension
TERMINOLOGY that can be mounted on the outward end of an off-
road handlebar.
Bar: Short for handlebar.
Bar center: The usually bulged or sleeve-reinforced Handlebar ferrule: A reinforcing sleeve on a han-
center of the handlebar. dlebar where the bar goes through the stem.
Compression slot: The slot in the handlebar bore Handlebar grips: The rubber or plastic sheaths that
that is compressed when the handlebar-binder bolt is cover the end of an off-road bar where the bar is grasped.
tightened, causing the inside of the handlebar bore to Also called “grips.”
28 – 1
Stem-binder bolt Handlebar bore If changing stem length or bar size, it is possible that all
the control cables will need to be re-sized. Once again, it will
be necessary to adjust derailleurs and/or brakes.
INDICATIONS
The primary reasons to change the bar or stem are to
upgrade quality or change the way the customer fits the
Compression slot bike. Bent MTB bars are somewhat common, as well. A
stem would be also taken out to service the headset or
Stem shaft replace a fork.
Handlebar-binder bolt
Maintenance cycles
Although stems and bars do not have moving parts,
maintenance is very important. The stem runs the risk of
becoming a permanent installation if the bike is exposed
to a wet or humid environment or if the customer rides
a lot indoors and sweats on the stem. At least once every
six months (and as often as monthly if conditions dictate
it), the stem should be removed from the bike and the
Stem wedge stem shaft, head of the stem bolt, stem-bolt threads,
and stem wedge should be liberally greased. Bars need
monthly inspections for fatigue bends and fatigue cracks.
Handlebars should also be closely inspected for bends
28.2 Parts of a stem. and cracks after every crash.
Stem: The component that connects the handlebar to Symptoms indicating bars need
the fork. It may also be called a “quill stem,” “gooseneck,” replacement
or “neck.” Handlebars need to replaced when they crack. Bent
Stem-binder bolt: The vertical bolt that goes through handlebars are bars in the process of cracking, so all
the stem shaft that is used to secure the stem in the fork. bent handlebars should be replaced immediately. Regular
Stem extension: The horizontal length of the stem. inspections of handlebars for cracks is very important.
Stem rise: The vertical height of the stem. The most likely place for a crack to appear is on top of
Stem shaft: The vertical shaft of the stem that inserts the bar and just outward of the stem. Other places to
in the fork. check for cracks on off-road bars is on either side of
Stem wedge: The wedge piece below the stem shaft the brake-lever clamp and just inward of any handlebar-
that secures the stem in the fork column when the stem extension clamp.
bolt draws the wedge up. The wedge is usually a cylinder Inspect for bent handlebars after any crash. With
with a sloped end that slides across a corresponding slope someone holding the bike straight up and the front wheel
on the bottom of the stem shaft. As the sloped wedge is straight, crouch down in front of the bike and look straight
drawn up, it displaces the bottom of the stem shaft later- at the handlebars. If the two sides are not symmetrical,
ally, causing it to bind against the inside of the fork column. the bars are bent.
Occasionally the wedge is a conical shape that slides up into
a conical hole in the bottom of the stem, causing the split
stem shaft to expand.
PREREQUISITES Bent in
In certain instances, it is necessary to disconnect the
brake-control wires and/or the derailleur-control wires in
order to remove and replace a handlebar or stem. If this
28.3 Crash-bent bars.
is the case, it will be necessary to adjust the derailleurs
and/or brakes. Bars bend from fatigue as well as from crashing. This is
particularly true of extra-lightweight off-road bars. When
28 – 2
bars bend from fatigue, they will appear symmetrical, but same amount, then the bar is probably slipping. If one
when viewed from the front it will be apparent that they changes more than the other, then either the bar or the
begin to drop down immediately from the point that they extension(s) could be slipping.
come out of the stem. When drop bars bend from fatigue,
they exhibit this same symptom, and the drops move closer
Symptoms indicating stem needs
together, as well. For example, a drop bar that originally replacement
measured 40cm from center of one bar end to center of Stems can bend in a crash or may bend or crack from
the other bar end might measure as little as 36cm. fatigue. If they bend from a crash, the bars may also be
bent, and the damage to the stem may not become obvious
Bent down equally on both sides
until after replacing the bent bar. If the bars are in good
condition, but one side is lower than the other, then the
stem is bent. Stems that bend from fatigue are rare, but
what happens in these cases is that the stem shaft makes a
forward bend where it comes out of the headset. Stems that
crack from fatigue will have cracks in numerous locations.
The cracks may appear around the handlebar-binder bolt,
where the extension joins the handlebar clamp, where the
stem shaft and forward extension join or in the stem shaft
28.4 Fatigue-bent drop bars
in the portion below the top of the headset.
Bent down equally on both sides
28.5 Fatigue-bent MTB bars.
Symptoms indicating bars need securing 28.6 If these bars are straight, then the stem is bent
Handlebars can exhibit two symptoms when they are from a crash.
loose and need to be secured. They may make creaking
sounds, or they may slip.
Creaking sounds can be caused by other things,
but nothing is more important than loose handlebars,
so always treat this symptom as reason to check the
bar security.
Slipping can be sudden and dramatic, in which case
there will be no wondering whether the bars need to be
secured, or it can be gradual and subtle. On road bikes with
drop bars, it might be noticed that the brake levers seem
lower or that when riding on the drops it feels different.
When installing bars, it is a good idea to note the angle of
the bottom portion of the bar and inspect after the first
few rides to see if it remains the same. It is normal for the 28.7 This stem is bent forward from fatigue.
bottom of a drop bar to point down to the back or be flat.
Anytime the bottom of the drop bar is pointing up to the Symptoms indicating stem needs securing
back, check whether the handlebars are loose. The symptom indicating that the stem is loose could
Off-road bars experience less leverage than drop be creaking or slipping. Creaking is more likely. Creaking
bars, unless they have bar extensions or have a forward can be caused by other things, so if securing the stem
bend. Once again, note the angle of any built-in or does not solve the problem, be sure to check handlebar
bolt-on forward extension when the bar or extension is security. Creaking can also be caused by the fit of head-
first installed. Check this angle after a few rides to see set pressed races to the head tube and by a looseness
if it has changed. If both bolt-on extensions change the between the bar center ferrule and the bar. A loose stem
28 – 3
will slip by rotating, not by sliding down. Rotation that Stem will not install even if it is the
happens when a crash occurs does not indicate that the
stem is too loose. In fact, it is desirable that the stem
correct size
This could be caused by corrosion, in which case the
rotate to prevent damage to the bars. A stem that rotates
inside of the fork should be honed. It could also be caused
when riding is one that is too loose.
by an undersized or off-center headset-locknut hole. Check
Headset overhaul and replacement the installation with the locknut loosened or removed.
Stem removal is required for headset overhaul or
replacement.
Handlebars slip when properly torqued
This is caused by poor bar-to-stem fit or contami-
Fork replacement nation on the mating surfaces. The complication comes
Stem removal is required for fork replacement. when it occurs during assembly of a bicycle that came
with a fully assembled and taped bar set, which must
TOOL CHOICES be stripped on one half to clean the mating surfaces or
measure to check fit.
There are no special tools required for stem and
bar service. There is one optional type of tool, used for Extensions slip when properly torqued
cleaning out a fork after removing a stuck stem. This is Handlebar extensions are prone to slipping due to con-
either a Flex-hone BC27 (1" fork columns), BC29 (1–1/8" tamination on the mating surfaces, poor fit, or painted or
fork columns), or BC35 (1–1/4" fork columns). These anodized mating surfaces. Check fit, clean mating surfaces,
tools are installed on a drill and spin at high speed inside and sand mating surfaces to expose raw aluminum.
the fork column to clean out rust. Control cables end up too short after
installing wider bars or a longer stem
TIME AND DIFFICULTY This one should be caught before the job is ever
Removing and installing a stem and bar set is a job started. Nothing can be done but install new cables and
of little difficulty that takes 2–4 minutes. If the stem is adjust any brakes or derailleurs affected.
corroded in place, it can become a job of high difficulty.
Replacing a stem is a job of little difficulty in itself,
Cables will not allow stem to lift far
but to the extent that it requires disconnection of brake enough to remove from fork
or derailleur cables, it can become a job of moderate to Sometimes a cable will interfere with removal of a
high difficulty. stem. Cables routed under the handlebar tape to a front
Replacing a handlebar is a job of little difficulty in sidepull brake often cause this problem. It is usually easi-
itself, taking only 5–10 minutes, but to the extent that it est to remove the caliper from the fork. In all other cases,
requires disconnection of brake or derailleur cables, it can try to operate the mechanism in a way that will cause the
become a job of moderate to high difficulty. If the stem inner wire to slacken, and then slip a housing end out of
is corroded in place and must be removed to access the any split housing stop.
bars, it can become a job of high difficulty.
ABOUT THE REST
COMPLICATIONS OF THIS CHAPTER
Wedge will not go down after loosening The rest of this chapter is in six sections. The first
is STEM REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION.
stem-binder bolt It is followed by HANDLEBAR REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT,
It is normal to have to strike the top of the handlebar-
AND INSTALLATION. This is followed by INSTALLING
binder bolt after loosening to get the wedge to drop. When
HANDLEBAR CLIP-ONS AND EXTENSIONS. Next there
this does not work, it means that the wedge is badly cor-
is a brief section on HANDLEBAR-COVERING REMOVAL
roded in place. See step #6, page 28-6.
AND INSTALLATION. Following this is a section, OTHER
Stem still stuck once wedge has dropped BAR SYSTEMS, regarding BMX and upright (touring and
It is natural to assume that this is caused by corrosion, cruiser) systems. The last part is HANDLEBAR AND STEM
but it could be as simple as binding caused by an off-center TROUBLESHOOTING. Depending on what operation is
hole in a headset locknut. Try loosening the locknut before being done, use any section by itself, or it may be
preparing to work on a corroded stem. best to include parts (or all) of various sections to
complete the task.
28 – 4
STEM REMOVAL, a caliper so that the brake pads meet. Squeeze the brake
lever in just enough so that the point where the cable
REPLACEMENT, AND head hooks into the anchor (inside the lever) can be seen.
If there is a slot in the anchor, then push enough slack
INSTALLATION cable into the lever so that the cable head drops below
the anchor. Push the cable out the slot in the anchor,
then pull the cable out of the lever and lever body.
STEM REMOVAL Aero’ road-bike brake levers: Only the front cable can
When removing the stem from the fork, any derail- be freed without requiring re-adjustment of the brake. In
leur- and/or brake-control cables can interfere with being many cases, this will be all that is needed to get the stem
able to pull the stem out of the fork column. Further- out of the fork column or to replace the stem. Simply
more, any of these cables are more prone to damage if unbolt the brake caliper from the fork. There will be a
left attached to the bar set and they end up supporting 10mm hex nut or 5mm Allen nut on the back of the fork
the weight of the bar set. How these control cables can crown for this purpose. The only brake adjustment needed
be disengaged is highly variable depending on the type of will be centering the pad clearance.
equipment. The following are guidelines that will apply Mountain-bike shift levers: All cables are attached
often, but not always. to the shift levers in a way that the cable cannot be
Mountain-bike brake levers: Usually brake cables released from the lever without having to adjust the cable
can be released from the brake levers and reconnected after reinstallation. However, it is sometimes possible
in a way that will not require any adjustment. Unhook to release the lever from the handlebar without hav-
the lead-beaded end of the straddle wire from one of ing to re-adjust the cables/derailleurs. If the derailleur
the caliper arms. On the brake lever, line up the slots control is a separate unit from the brake lever and has
in the cable adjusting barrel, adjusting-barrel locknut, a thin steel strap that wraps around the handlebar, then
and bottom of the body of the lever. Pull the housing a binding bolt can be removed, and the strap can be
and end cap straight out the end of the adjusting-barrel spread to allow removal of the entire lever unit from
socket, and then swing the inner wire down through all the handlebar. If the lever is a separate unit and has a
the lined-up slots. If necessary, compress the lever to thick cast-aluminum body that wraps around the lever,
the grip and then slip the head of the inner wire out the it may be possible to remove the shifting unit from the
back face (usually) of the lever. mounting body. Look for a 5mm or 6mm hex-socket
Cables to front cantilever brakes when the cable bolt on the back side of the lever face.
is routed through the stem: Unhook the lead-beaded Before removing the stem, confirm that the stem is
end of the straddle wire from one of the caliper arms. conventional and not a stem that clamps on the outside of
The straddle wire may be connected to the primary brake an unthreaded fork column (AheadSet or other threadless
wire by a roughly triangular device called a cable carrier. headset). Conventional stems have a hex-socket bolt that
If this is the case, the straddle wire is usually resting in an goes down through the stem shaft. The only other bolt
open cradle in the back of the cable carrier. By deflecting in the stem is at the handlebars to secure the bars in the
the loose end of the primary wire, the straddle wire can stem. The other type of stem has a hex-socket bolt in the
be lifted out of the cradle. If the cable carrier is a circular same location but has one or two other bolts on the back
disc and there is no open cradle, then unhooking the wire side or just in front of the “stem shaft.” If the stem is this
from the cable carrier will require full re-adjustment of the type, then the bike has an threadless-type headset bearing
brake. It would be easier to just remove the caliper arm and the stem is actually part of the headset. To perform
(that still has the cable attached to it) from the frame by stem removal in this case, see the HEADSETS chapter in
loosening the bolt that goes through the caliper arm and the section for threadless headsets (page 11-12).
into the fork. Be familiar with mounting cantilever arms 1. [ ] Release any cables from control levers or
before deciding to remove one. levers from handlebars that will facilitate
Non-aero’ road-bike brake levers: If the brake bar removal.
cables are free loops of housing that come down into 2. [ ] Turn the hex-socket bolt that goes down
through stem shaft 4–6 full turns counter-
the top of the brake levers on drop bars, they can
clockwise.
usually be released from the brake levers in a way that 3. [ ] If bolt head rises up, strike bolt head sharply
re-adjustment will not be required. Release any quick- with plastic mallet to force stem wedge
release mechanisms on both brakes. Remove both down. (If it will not drop, then try ballpeen
wheels from the bike. Using a third-hand tool, squeeze hammer.)
28 – 5
2 – strike save the fork will take at least one hour. Would it be about as
cheap just to replace the fork, also?
To replace the stem and fork, simply remove the stem-
1 – loosen binder bolt and use a hacksaw to cut the stem shaft off about
1/2" above the headset locknut. Disassemble the headset
and drop the fork out of the head tube.
To save the fork, use a jab saw (special holder for a
MA
X. H
T.
3 – lift hacksaw blade) to cut three slots inside the stub of the
stem shaft as deep as possible without cutting into the
fork-column material. It may be necessary to force the
wedge down below the stem-shaft stub. Once the stub of
the stem shaft is slotted, use a punch to deflect the three
28.8 Loosening the stem. sections inward. Once the stem shaft stub has been col-
lapsed inward, it should be possible to remove it.
4. [ ] When loosened bolt head has dropped to
(or remained at) its original position, pull up
with gently twisting motion to lift stem shaft
out of fork column.
STEM REPLACEMENT
When replacing a stem, several factors of fit (both
5. [ ] If any remaining cables resist stem’s range
mechanical and biomechanical) should be considered. This
of motion so that it will not lift clear of fork
column, detach cables from brake or derail-
book is about mechanics, not riding, so discussions about
leur (derailleur or brake adjustment will be biomechanical considerations are left out except as to how
required) and then remove stem. they may affect mechanical ones.
6. If stem is difficult to remove: The first mechanical-fit consideration is the fit of
[ ] Loosen headset locknut fully and slide it the stem inside the fork column. Threaded fork columns
up stem shaft (headset adjustment will be are made in three sizes today, none of which are close
required later). enough together that there should be any confusion about
[ ] Drip light oil or penetrating oil in crack fit. Table 28-1 shows the sizes of threaded fork columns
between stem shaft and fork column. and the size of quill-type stem that fits. Common sizes
[ ] Turn bike over and flood bottom of stem
are in bold type.
(through hole in bottom of fork crown) with
light oil or penetrating oil. QUILL-STEM FITS (table 28-1)
[ ] Pull up while twisting vigorously on Threaded-fork size Quill-stem size
stem until it has moved, then stop and 25.0mm (French, discontinued) 22.0mm
wait 15 minutes.
1" 22.2mm (7/8")
[ ] After waiting 15 minutes for stem to
cool, repeat oiling, pulling, and twisting, and 1–1/8" 25.4mm
another waiting period. 1–1/4" (old MTB, rare) 28.6mm
[ ] If after stem is removed corrosion is The second mechanical-fit consideration is the fit of
evident, use Flex-hone or emery cloth to
the stem to the bars. Table 28-2 shows the sizes made, their
clean inside of fork column and emery cloth
to clean stem shaft.
applications, and whether it is possible to shim the bar to
7. If stem will not rotate in fork column or lift at fit a larger stem. Common uses are in bold type.
all after performing step 6: BAR-CENTER DIAMETERS (table 28-2)
[ ] Clamp fork crown in bench vise (pro- Diameter Use Shim to:
tecting crown with blocks of wood).
22.2mm (7/8") BMX, MTB (old) 25.4mm
[ ] Use oiling, twisting, pulling and waiting
techniques describe in step 6. 15/16" American made (economy) None
[ ] After stem is removed, if corrosion is 25.0mm French road (discontinued) None
evident use Flex-hone or emery cloth to 25.4mm (1") MTB, BMX, road (old) 28.6mm
clean inside of fork column and emery cloth 25.8mm Road (rare), MTB (rare) None
to clean stem shaft.
26.0mm Road None
If the stem will not remove after trying steps #6 and #7,
26.4mm Road (current but rare) None
it must be destroyed to remove it. First, decide whether the
28.6mm MTB (rare), BMX (rare) None
fork must be saved. The method of removing the stem to
31.8mm Road, MTB-DH None
28 – 6
To enhance the fit of the customer’s body to the bike, 13. [ ] Closed clamp only: Measure new stem
it may be necessary to change the stem to get the bars handlebar-bore diameter and record here:
closer, farther, lower, or higher. Any of these changes affects __________mm
the length of cable housing for the control levers on the 14. [ ] Closed clamp only: If measurements in steps
12 and 13 differ by <.2mm, then new stem
handlebars. If lowering the bars or shortening the stem,
is comparable fit.
the loops could end up too long, which can cause more
15. [ ] Lay new stem on top of old stem so that
friction and poorer shift or brake response, or even kinking stem shafts are lined up and maximum-
or failure of the control-cable housing(s). If raising the bars height marks are even, and compare loca-
or lengthening the stem, the loops could end up too short, tions of both handlebar bores to determine
which can cause all the same problems. If making these sort whether new stem will move bars signifi-
of changes, check the DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS chapter cantly up, down, forward, or back. If so,
(page 31-4) and the BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS chapter (page cable re-sizing may be required.
35-3) to check on sizing loops of control-cable housing. 16. [ ] See HANDLEBAR, REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND
8. [ ] See HANDLEBAR REMOVAL (page 28-8) to INSTALLATION to install bars in new stem.
remove handlebars from stem.
9. [ ] Measure old stem-shaft diameter and record
here: __________mm STEM INSTALLATION
10. [ ] Measure new stem-shaft diameter and Stem installation is a relatively simple procedure but
record here: __________mm has dire consequences if done wrong. Failure to lubri-
11. [ ] If measurements in steps 9 and 10 differ by cate properly can turn the fork and stem into virtually
<.2mm, then new stem is comparable fit. a single piece of metal, requiring replacement of both.
There are two types of handlebar-clamp systems. Under-tightening the stem can lead to a disastrous loss
When the clamp consists of one piece that wraps around of control at the most critical time. Over-tightening the
the bar with a single compression slot that is closed by stem can lead to a hidden weakening of the fork column,
one or more bolts, it is called a closed clamp. When the which could break without warning with extremely inju-
clamp consist of two parts (a face plate and the main rious consequences. Installing the stem too high in the
stem) that can be separated from each other, it is called a fork can lead to catastrophic fork-column failure.
breakaway clamp. 17. [ ] If handlebars are not installed at this time,
Closed-clamp stems can be measured to determine see HANDLEBAR, REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND
the handlebar-bore diameter (see figure 28.9). Breakaway- INSTALLATION (MTBs, page 28-11 or drop-
clamp stems cannot be measured, so fit to a bar must be bars, page 28-9) to install bars to stem.
determined by trial and error. If the breakaway clamp is Under bolt head
too small, then the handlebar will not seat into the curved
face of the clamp parts (contact will only be at ends of
curved surfaces). Additionally, there may be trouble getting
the clamp-bolt threads to start when the bar is installed. Thread
If the breakaway clamp is too large, the two parts of the
clamp will contact each other at two points simultaneously
when the parts are mated to the handlebar. If this condi-
tion is questionably poor, rely on the test for marginal Stem shaft
security included as part of the installation process.
Threads
Wedge
Slope of wedge
28.10 Grease points on a stem.

28.9 Measure handlebar-bore diameter here. 18. [ ] Unthread stem-binder bolt and grease under
head of bolt and bolt threads.
12. [ ] Closed clamp only: Measure old stem
19. [ ] Grease stem wedge where it contacts stem
handlebar-bore diameter and record here:
shaft and inside of fork column.
__________mm
28 – 7
20. [ ] Grease portion of stem shaft that will be
inside fork column. HANDLEBAR REMOVAL,
21. [ ] Grease inside of fork column to depth stem
shaft will be inserted. REPLACEMENT,
22. [ ] Install any washer on stem-binder bolt and
install bolt into stem shaft. AND INSTALLATION
23. [ ] Engage stem-binder bolt into stem wedge. NOTE: Skip to step 9 if removing off-road bars.
24. [ ] Locate mark on stem shaft labeled Maximum
Height or Minimum Insertion (either may be
abbreviated). DROP-BAR-HANDLEBAR
25. [ ] Insert stem into fork column at least until
Max. Ht. or Min. Insert mark is below top of
REMOVAL
If the stem does not have a two-part clamp, drop
headset.
handlebars must be rotated wildly to snake them through
26. If stem is difficult to install:
[ ] Try loosening stem-binder bolt more and the handlebar bore of the stem. This often ends up inter-
insert again. fering with another part of the bike if the stem is in the
[ ] Check inside of fork column for rubber bike when the bars are being removed, so stem removal
seal on inner perimeter of headset locknut should generally be done first.
getting displaced and forced into fork col- Bars may be removed to replace a stem, in which case
umn with stem shaft. only one side of the bars needs to be stripped, or bars
[ ] Loosen headset locknut and try again may be removed in order to replace the bars, in which
(headset will need adjustment). case both sides will need to be stripped. This section strips
27. [ ] Set stem to lower height if desired.
only one side, then in the section of the worksheet for bar
28.[ ] Turn bars side to side until either bar cen-
replacement, the other side is stripped of handlebar cov-
ter appears in line with fork dropouts or
front axle (figure 28.11) or stem extension erings and control levers.
appears in line with front tire. 1. [ ] Remove handlebar tape or handlebar cov-
ering from one side of bar.
2. [ ] Unhook or detach control cables from con-
trol levers on both sides.
3. [ ] Measure angle of bars with angle finder, if
customer position will be restored. Record
angle here: ______
X. H
T.
MA
Dial protractor
Dropout tips
28.11 Align the handlebar center with the tips of the 28.12 Measuring drop-bar position.
dropouts.
4. [ ] Note position of control levers (so position
29. [ ] Check that Max. Ht./Min. Insert line is still can be restored if desired) and remove con-
hidden. trol levers from one side of bars (see brake
30. [ ] Secure steel or titanium stem-binder bolt to and derailleur chapters).
torque of 145–180in-lbs or aluminum stem- 5. [ ] Remove stem (see STEM REMOVAL,
binder bolt to torque of 145–150in-lbs. REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION, page 28-5).
31. [ ] With bike on floor and facing front of bike, 6. [ ] Loosen handlebar-binder bolt.
grasp front wheel firmly between legs and try 7. [ ] Slide stem off fat center section of bar
to rotate bars side to side with about 30–40 to the side where covering and controls
pounds of pressure on one end of bars. If were removed.
bars move with difficulty or don’t move at all, It can be tricky getting the stem past the bends in the
stem-binder bolt is adequately secure.
bars. Look closely at the handlebar bore in the stem to see
28 – 8
that at one point it is narrower than elsewhere. Keep this 28-7). Breakaway-clamp stems cannot be measured, so
narrow side of the bore to the inside of each bend in the bar, fit to a bar must be determined by trial and error. If the
then it will be unlikely the stem will jam as it is removed. breakaway clamp is too small, then the handlebar will not
8. [ ] Rotating stem about bar to keep narrowest seat into the curved face of the clamp parts (contact will
part of handlebar bore at inside of each bend only be at ends of curved surfaces). Additionally, there
of bar, slip stem off of bar. may be trouble getting the clamp-bolt threads to start
NOTE: Skip steps 9–12 if drop bars already when the bar is installed. If the breakaway clamp is too
removed.
large, the two parts of the clamp will contact each other
at two points simultaneously when the parts are mated to
OFF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR the handlebar. If this condition is questionably poor, rely
on the test for marginal security included as part of the
REMOVAL installation process.
14. [ ] Closed clamp only: Measure handlebar-bore
Dial protractor diameter in stem and record here:
__________mm
Breakaway clamp only: Test-mate bar and
clamp parts to check for poor fit.
[ ] Clamp parts contact each other at two
28.13 Measuring off-road bar position. points; bar is too small for stem.
9. [ ] Remove grip from one end of handlebar, [ ] Clamps will not seat well against bar or
then measure bar angle with angle finder threads are difficult to get started; bar is too
and record here: _____ large for stem.
10. [ ] Unhook or detach control cables from con- [ ] Gaps between clamp parts are very small;
trol levers on both sides. bar may be marginally small for stem. Check
NOTE: If replacing stem only, see STEM REMOVAL, Need to test fit option in step 16.
REPLACEMENT, AND INSTALLATION (page 28-5) to NOTE: See table 28-2 (page 28-6) for handlebar
remove stem. dimensions.
There are two types of handlebar-clamp systems. When 15. [ ] Measure handlebar-center diameter of new
the clamp consists of one piece that wraps around the bar bars and record here: __________mm
16. If step 14 is .0 to .2mm more than step 15, bar
with a single compression slot that is closed by one or more
and stem are good fit. If different by more, test
bolts, it is called a closed clamp. When the clamp consist of
for good fit. Check one of following choices.
two parts (a face plate and the main stem) that can be sepa- [ ] Fit is good.
rated from each other, it is called a breakaway clamp. [ ] Need to test fit.
11. [ ] Closed clamp only: Loosen handlebar-binder
bolt(s).
Breakaway clamp only: Remove handlebar- DROP-HANDLEBAR INSTALLATION
binder bolts and separate bar from stem. NOTE: If installing off-road bars, skip to step 28.
If the stem is a closed-clamp type, now that the 17. [ ] Remove handlebar-binder bolt(s) from stem.
handlebar-binder bolt(s) have been loosened, the bars 18. [ ] Use caliper to measure diameter of handlebar-
should just slip out of the stem. In many cases, it is not binder-bolt thread and record here: ______mm
this easy. In order to get the bars out of the stem, the stem 19. [ ] Grease threads and under head of handlebar-
bore needs to be expanded. When the bars will not slip binder bolt(s).
NOTE: If positioning and securing already installed
out, first remove the handlebar-binder bolt completely.
drop bars, skip to step 22.
Use something like a fat screwdriver to pry open the 20. [ ] Use alcohol or acetone to clean inside of
compression slot and then slide the bars out. handlebar bore in stem and center section
12. [ ] Closed clamp only: Slide handlebar out of of handlebar.
stem. 21. [ ] Closed clamp only: Insert handlebar into
stem, rotating stem around bar to keep
HANDLEBAR REPLACEMENT narrowest part of handlebar bore always at
inside of bar bends, then center bar in stem.
13. [ ] Remove handlebar covering and control
Breakaway clamp only: Assemble bar
levers from second side of bar.
between stem and face plate, install
Closed-clamp stems can be measured to determine handlebar-binder bolt(s) (gently snug), then
the handlebar-bore diameter (see figure 28.9 on page center bar in stem.
28 – 9
In step #22, the variation specific to breakaway-clamp 23. [ ] Rotate bar to desired position.
stems says to adjust the bolts so the gaps between the clamp 24. Transfer measurement in step 18 to here
parts are equal. This is critical to bar security because the (______mm), and in absence of
bolts must bend slightly when the gaps are not kept equal. manufacturer’s recommendation, torque
handlebar-binder bolts to one of following
Bent bolts give false-high torque readings when being tight-
torque ranges, depending on handlebar-
ened and are more likely to break (during tightening or
binder-bolt-thread diameter:
while the bike is being ridden). However, there are brands [ ] Torque bolts:
of stems with breakaway clamps to which this rule does not 5mm thread diameter to 60in-lbs
apply. Obviously, when one end of the clamp plate hooks 6mm thread diameter to 120in-lbs
into the main stem, even gaps are not possible. There is also 7mm thread diameter to 160in-lbs
a situation found on stems made by at least one manufac- 8mm thread diameter to 205in-lbs
turer (Salsa) that is not so obvious. Salsa stems may have a NOTE: With multi-bolt clamps, cycle through
groove-and-slot configuration at the one of the points at all bolts 1/4 turn at a time until all stop
which the clamp face and stem body meet. When this is turning at desired torque!
25. [ ] Install control levers per DERAILLEUR CONTROLS
the case, the bolt at this end of the clamp face is tightened
(page 30-11 or 30-20) and/or BRAKE LEVERS
fully before installing the other bolt.
(page 34-6) chapter instructions.
22. [ ] Closed clamp only: Install and gently snug
26. If Need to test fit option is checked in step 16,
handlebar-binder bolt(s).
perform following security test:
Breakaway clamp only: Adjust bolts so
[ ] With bike on floor, stand facing bike and
gaps between face plate and stem body
straddle front wheel.
are equal.
[ ] Grasp brake-lever bodies in similar fash-
The rotation of the handlebars is strictly a matter ion to when riding with weight supported at
of personal preference, but it is likely that the customer brake levers and support full weight on brake
has simply been living with whatever position the shop levers until feet lift off floor.
set them. If the customer would like to try the bars in a [ ] Check if bar position has changed.
different position, consider these guidelines. If the top [ ] If bars slip and handlebar-binder bolts are
extension of the bar is parallel to the ground, it favors not torqued to maximum recommendation,
riding primarily on the tops of the bars and handicaps add torque and test again.
access to the brake levers when riding in the drops. If [ ] If bars slip at maximum torque, fit is bad.
Change bar or stem to improve fit.
the bottom grip of the bar is parallel to the ground,
27. [ ] Attach control cables to derailleur and/or
it favors riding primarily in the drops and handicaps
brake levers and adjust derailleurs and/or
access to the brake levers when riding on the tops of brakes as per instructions in derailleur and/or
the bars. Usually the best position is a compromise brake chapters.
between these extremes, with the top extensions of
the bars sloping slightly down toward the brake levers
and the grips sloping slightly down toward the back of OFF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR
the bike. This position is recommended if setting up
new bikes, without a customer preference indicated.
INSTALLATION
28. [ ] Remove handlebar-binder bolt(s) from stem.
For the ideal neutral position, the angle of the reach 29. [ ] Use caliper to measure diameter of handlebar-
should equal the angle of the grip. binder-bolt thread and record here: ______mm
Highest (reach flat) 30. [ ] Grease threads and under head of handlebar-
binder bolt(s).
Xº NOTE: If positioning and securing already-installed
off-road bars, skip to step 33.
31. [ ] Use alcohol or acetone to clean inside of
Lowest
handlebar bore in stem and center section
X. H
T.
X. H
T.
(grip flat)
of handlebar.
MA MA
32. [ ] Closed clamp only: Insert handlebar into

Yº stem, then center bar to stem.
Breakaway clamp only: Assemble bar
Ideal position (Xº=Yº) Acceptable range between stem and face plate, install
handlebar-binder bolt(s) (gently snug), then
28.14 Acceptable range of drop-handlebar rotations. center bar in stem.
28 – 10
In step #33, the variation specific to breakaway- 35. Transfer measurement in step 29 to here
clamp stems says to adjust the bolts so the gaps between (______mm) and in absence of
the clamp parts are equal. This is critical to bar security manufacturer’s recommendation, torque
because the bolts must bend slightly when the gaps are handlebar-binder bolts to one of following
torque ranges depending on handlebar-
not kept equal. Bent bolts give false-high torque readings
binder-bolt-thread diameter:
when being tightened and are more likely to break (during
[ ] Torque bolts:
tightening or while the bike is being ridden). However, 5mm thread diameter to 60in-lbs
there are brands of stems with breakaway clamps to which 6mm thread diameter to 120in-lbs
this rule does not apply. Obviously, when one end of the 7mm thread diameter to 160in-lbs
clamp plate hooks into the main stem, even gaps are not 8mm thread diameter to 205in-lbs
possible. There is also a situation found on stems made NOTE: With multi-bolt clamps, cycle through
by at least one manufacturer (Salsa) that is not so obvious. all bolts 1/4 turn at a time until all stop
Salsa stems may have a groove-and-slot configuration at turning at desired torque!
the one of the points the clamp face and stem body meet. 36. [ ] Install control levers per DERAILLEUR CONTROLS
(page 30-3 or 30-8) and/or BRAKE LEVERS
When this is the case, the bolt at this end of the clamp face
(page 34-4) chapter instructions.
is tightened fully before installing the other bolt.
37. If Need to test fit option is checked in step 16,
33. [ ] Closed clamp only: Install and gently snug
perform following security test if handlebar
handlebar-binder bolt(s).
extensions are being used:
Breakaway clamp only: Adjust bolts so
[ ] With bike on floor, stand facing bike and
gaps between face plate and stem body
straddle front wheel.
are equal.
[ ] Grasp handlebar extensions and support full
The rotation of the handlebars is strictly a matter of weight on extensions until feet lift off floor.
personal preference but it is likely that the customer has [ ] Check whether bar position has changed
simply been living with whatever position the shop set them or handlebar extensions have slipped.
up at. If the customer would like to try the bars in a differ- [ ] If bars slip and handlebar-binder bolts are
ent position, consider these guidelines. If the grips of the not torqued to maximum recommendation,
bars slope up to the outside, it tends to put the elbows in add torque and test again.
an inflexible position, which reduces comfort and control. [ ] If bars slip at maximum torque, fit is bad.
If the grips are flat or slope down to the outside no more Change bar or stem.
38. [ ] Attach control cables to derailleur and/or
than 5° (about 3/4" drop over the length of the grip), the
brake levers and adjust derailleurs and/or
elbows are relaxed. If the grips slope down too much, then
brakes as per instructions in derailleur and/or
the hand will tend to slip off the end of the grip. Somewhere brake chapters.
between flat and 5° down is recommended if setting up new
bikes, without a customer preference indicated.
Flat (0º) INSTALLING HANDLEBAR

Flat (0º)
Acceptable range CLIP-ONS AND EXTENSIONS
Acceptable range
Down 5º
Down 5º
DROP-BAR CLIP-ONS
NOTE: Skip to step 8 if installing extensions on an
off-road bike.
Aerodynamic clip-on extensions for drop handlebars
may be great for improved performance or comfort rid-
Unacceptable
ing, but mechanically they are a nightmare. Manufacturers
Unacceptable
make the clamps for clip-on bars in two configurations,
V-block and radius clamp. The V-block system has the
advantage of fitting any diameter handlebar, but it slips
easily and damages bars easily if tightened enough to avoid
slippage. The radius-clamp type is a more secure grip, but
28.15 Acceptable range of MTB-bar rotation. only if it matches the diameter of the bar closely. Either
34. [ ] Rotate bar to desired position. type is adequate to secure if the rider always rides in the
28 – 11
intended fashion with the bulk of load on the elbow pads. 8. Torque bolts to following torque ranges
In an emergency or with poor riding habits, the load may depending on thread diameter:
end up at the outer end of the clip-on, which is when [ ] ≤5mm, torque to 50in-lbs.
the clamps may slip. Even if the clamps do not slip, the [ ] 5.1–6mm, torque to 120–145in-lbs.
[ ] 7–8mm, torque to 155–205in-lbs.
handlebar may be subjected to more rotational load than
the stem clamp is designed to withstand, resulting in the
bars slipping in the stem. OFF-ROAD-HANDLEBAR
To reduce problems with clip-ons, follow these five
rules: EXTENSIONS
1. Recommend that the customer always use them Off-road-handlebar extensions may be great for
as they are intended and not rest weight out at the improved performance or comfort riding, but mechani-
end of the clip-ons. cally they are a nightmare. Manufacturers make the clamps
2. Always clamp them directly to the bar and not on for clip-on bars in two configurations, external and internal
top of any handlebar covering. clamping. The external system has the advantage of fit-
3. Always clean the mating surfaces of the clamps ting any handlebar equally well, but the clamp is bulkier
and the bar thoroughly, including removing epoxy, and requires that the grips and controls be moved inward.
paint, or anodized finishes with emery cloth. The internal-clamp type doesn’t require moving grips and
4. Lubricate bolts properly and follow torque recom- controls, and the clamp is less bulky, but it will be secure
mendations closely. only if it matches the inside diameter of the bar closely
5. Inspect bars for fatigue cracks regularly where clip- (there are no standards for inside-bar diameter). Provided
on clamps engage bars. that an internal-clamp extension is a good fit, either clamp
1. [ ] Remove handlebar tape or handlebar covering type will adequately secure the extension, if the rider always
from portion of the bar where clamp secures. rides in the intended fashion, which is using extensions
2. [ ] Remove anodization finishes, paints, or when climbing or for high-speed cruising on smooth ter-
epoxy coats from inside of clamp and out- rain. In an emergency or with poor riding habits, the load
side of bar where clamps engage. may end up on the extensions when the customer hits a
3. [ ] Clean mating surfaces with alcohol/acetone. bump, which is when the clamps may slip. Even if the
4. [ ] Remove clamp bolts, measure thread clamps do not slip, the handlebar may be subjected to
diameter, and record here: __________mm
more rotational load than the stem clamp is designed to
5. [ ] Thoroughly grease bolt threads and under
bolt heads. withstand, resulting in the bars slipping in the stem.
6. [ ] Mount clip-ons, install bolts, and gently Extra-lightweight bars create another problem. The
secure. external extension clamp can crush the bar due to the
thin wall. Inserts are made to reinforce the bar. The insert
should match the bar I.D. closely and be at least as wide
as the extension clamp.
To reduce problems with handlebar extensions, follow
º these several rules:
30
1. Recommend that the customer always use them
15º as they are intended and not rest weight on them
0º when traveling on rough terrain.
2. Always clean the mating surfaces of the clamps
and the bar thoroughly, including removing epoxy,
MA
X. H
T.
paint, or anodized finishes with emery cloth.

3. Lubricate bolts properly and follow torque recom-
mendations closely.
4. Inspect bars regularly for fatigue cracks where
28.16 Normal range of clip-on positions. clamps engage bars.
7. [ ] Position clip-ons at desired angle. 1. [ ] If installing external-clamp handlebar
extension, move controls and grips inward
enough to provide room for full engagement
of clamp to bar.
28 – 12
2. [ ] Remove paint, epoxy coats, or anodization 2. [ ] Spray inside of grip with hair spray and slip
finishes from inside of clamps and outside of grip onto handlebar quickly.
bar where clamps will engage. 3. [ ] Allow several hours for hair spray to set
3. [ ] Clean mating surfaces with alcohol/acetone. before riding, check grip security before
4. [ ] Thoroughly grease bolt threads and under riding.
bolt heads.
5. [ ] Mount extensions, install bolts, and gently
secure. DROP-BAR TAPING
1. [ ] Remove old tape unless fatter bar diameter
is preferred.
Rolled-back rubber cover

º
45
20º
0º
3" piece wrapped

MA
X. H
T.
around bar
X. H
T.
MA
28.17 Normal range of extension positions.

6. [ ] Position extensions at desired angle.
7. [ ] Torque bolts to 120–145in-lbs. 28.18 Put a 3" piece of tape over the brake lever
mounting strap.
2. [ ] Roll back rubber cover on brake lever to
HANDLEBAR-COVERING expose base of brake-lever body.

3. [ ] Unless provided, cut 3" piece from end of
REMOVAL AND tape and cover brake-lever mounting strap

so that both ends of piece will end up under
INSTALLATION rubber cover when rubber cover is down.

4. Check fit of handlebar plug or cap to end of
bar, and check one of following options:
OFF-ROAD GRIPS [ ] No handlebar plug will be used. Handlebar-

end shifters are mounted in bars, and first
Steps #1–5 are 100% reliable and safe. Filling the bars wrap of tape will start flush with end of bar.
with compressed air to remove grips works in some cases, [ ] Handlebar plug is snug fit to bar, and first
but not if grips are torn on the end or made of certain wrap of tape will start flush with end of bar.
foams. Cutting the grips off with a sharp knife always [ ] Handlebar plug is loose in bar, so first
works if the grips will not be reused, but the following wrap of tape needs to overlap end of bar by
procedure has no risk of self-injury. 10–15mm.
Removal
1. [ ] Insert long, skinny screwdriver between grip
and bar to create gap between grip and bar.
2. [ ] Spray or drip water between grip and bar,
then remove screwdriver.
3. [ ] Insert screwdriver between grip and bar at
180° opposite original insertion.
4. [ ] Spray or drip water between grip and bar,
then remove screwdriver.
5. [ ] Twist grip back and forth to spread water
around, then pull grip off.
Installation
1. [ ] Clean bar of any contamination with alcohol.
28 – 13
8. [ ] Continue advancing up bend of bar, main-
taining 1/4 – 1/3 of tape width overlap at
outside of bar bend.
9. [ ] Adjust amount each wrap overlaps last wrap
so that when tape reaches bottom of brake
lever, it overlaps bottom edge of lever body
by 1/8" to 1/4".
X. H
T.
MA
28.19 Start with a full wrap with no advance.

X. H
T.
5. [ ] Start tape at bottom of bar, with end of tape MA
on top of bar and pointing in, with edge of

tape flush to or overlapping bar as deter-
mined in step 4.
6. [ ] Complete one wrap of tape without advancing
it so that end of tape is hidden by wrap.
28.22 Wrap around the brake lever like this.
10. [ ] After overlapping bottom of brake lever,
advance next wrap enough to end up above
brake lever at completion of wrap and over-
lap top of brake lever body by 1/8" to 1/4".
11. [ ] Continue wrapping around upper bend of
bar, maintaining 1/4 – 1/3 of tape overlap at
MA
X. H
T. outside bend of bar.
12. [ ] Finish wrapping with tape-edge flush to
edge of fat center section of bar, then cut
tape so end is on bottom side of bar.
13. [ ] Use colored friction tape or tape supplied
with handlebar tape to cover last wrap, leav-
ing end on bottom side of bar.
28.20 Overlap each wrap by 1/3 the width of the tape.
14. [ ] If using friction tape, use soldering iron or
7. [ ] Pulling with gentle-to-firm pressure, continue hot knife blade to weld end of friction tape
wrapping around bar, advancing tape with to overlap.
each wrap so that each wrap overlaps the 15. [ ] Tuck any excess tape into bottom end of bar
last by about 1/3 the tape width until first and install handlebar-end plugs (if any).
bend of bar is reached.
OTHER BAR SYSTEMS

BMX/FREESTYLE
MA
X. H
T.
BMX handlebar positions
BMX and freestyle handlebars should be positioned
with the rise of the bar ranging from 10° forward from
straight up to 30° back. The normal position when set-
ting up new bikes is with the rise of the bars pointing
straight up.
28.21 Overlap each wrap by 1/4 – 1/3 the width of
the tape on the outside of the bend of the bar.
28 – 14
10º forward UPRIGHT BARS

See figure 28.26 for the acceptable range of handlebar
30º back positions.
0º
15º
28.23 Position BMX/freestyle bars in this range.

X. H
T.
28.26 This the range of acceptable positions for

Securing BMX/freestyle stems
MA
upright bars.
BMX/freestyle stems should be torqued in the fork
to 170in-lbs.
Most BMX and freestyle bikes have a stem with four
handlebar-binder bolts. The handlebar is sandwiched
between two blocks of metal. When the binder bolts
are secured, these two blocks need to remain parallel to
avoid bending the bolts (see figure 28.24). In addition, the
bolts should be tightened in a specific sequence to avoid
effectively loosening one bolt while tightening another.
Basically, this means always crossing over the handlebar
to get to the next bolt. See figure 28.25 for a tightening
pattern. The bolts should be tightened in several stages
to a final torque of 240in-lbs.
Keep gaps equal at all times

X. H
T.
MA
28.24 Keep an even gap at the front and back of the

bar clamp at all times.
1 3
4 2
28.25 Tighten the four bolts in this pattern.
28 – 15
HANDLEBAR AND STEM TROUBLESHOOTING

(table 28-3)
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Wedge will not drop when tapping the stem-binder bolt with a ballpeen hammer.
Wedge is rusted in place. Unthread handlebar-binder bolt, remove stem with-
out wedge, and drive wedge out with punch.
SYMPTOM: Stem will not remove after the wedge has dropped.
Off-center hole in locknut is cutting into stem shaft. Loosen headset locknut before removing stem.
Stem is corroded in place. See procedure for removing difficult stems (page
28-6, steps 6 and 7).
SYMPTOM: After loosening handlebar-binder bolt, bars will not slip easily through stem.
Handlebar bore had to be spread for installation, so Insert something in compression slot to expand
in relaxed state it is still exerting pressure. handlebar bore.
SYMPTOM: Stem jams in bend of drop bar when installing or removing the stem from the bars.
Stem with wide bar clamp for MTB-type bars is Do not use this combination if installing. Spread
being used on drop bars. compression slot as much as necessary if remov-
ing the bars from the stem.
SYMPTOM: Bar center is difficult to fit in stem.
Bar center is wrong dimension for handlebar bore Measure both diameters. The bar should be no
in stem. more than .2mm larger than the handlebar bore
I.D. in the stem.
Stem is good fit, but handlebar-bore diameter is Expand compression slot in stem after verifying
slightly collapsed or undersized. stem and bar are compatible.
SYMPTOM: Stem is difficult to install in fork column.
Stem is over-sized for fork column. Measure stem O.D. and fork column I.D. Stem
cannot be larger than fork column by any amount.
Headset-locknut seal is displaced. Check seal and insert correctly if displaced.
Headset locknut has off-center hole. Loosen locknut and install stem to test. Replace
locknut to fix.
Corrosion in fork column or on stem shaft. Clean stem shaft with emery cloth and hone inside
of fork column.
SYMPTOM: Stem will not secure.
Stem was installed with stem-binder bolt that is Remove stem and install with stem-binder bolt no
too loose and slope-style wedge has rotated 180° looser than necessary to get stem into fork column.
out of position.
Stem-binder-bolt head, stem-binder-bolt threads, Grease all appropriate points.
and wedge surface are not greased.
SYMPTOM: After installing new handlebars, one side is lower than the other.
Stem was bent in a crash. Replace stem.
SYMPTOM: Handlebar extension or clip-on will not secure when bolts properly torqued.
Bolt heads and threads not greased. Grease bolts.
Mating surfaces are contaminated. Remove and clean mating surfaces.
Mating surfaces coated with paint or annodization. Clean to raw aluminum with emery cloth.
Internal extension clamp or radiused clip-on clamp Change bar, clip-on, or extension for better fitting
diameter is wrong diameter for bar. item.
Continued
28 – 16
HANDLEBAR AND STEM TROUBLESHOOTING

(table 28-3 continued)
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Handlebars slip when properly torqued.
Handlebar-binder bolt(s) need grease on threads Grease handlebar-binder bolt.
and under head.
Bars are undersized to handlebar bore in stem. Measure both and make sure bar diameter is not
more than .2mm less than bore diameter.
Bar center has collapsed or is worn out from Remove bars and check condition of mating
previous slipping. surface to stem.
Mating surfaces are contaminated. Remove bars from stem and clean mating surfaces
with alcohol or acetone.
Reinforcing sleeve has separated from handlebar. Check if bar center sleeve is staying stationary
when bar slips. If so, replace handlebar.
SYMPTOM: Handlebar-binder bolt breaks when torqued.
Torque was excessive for bolt diameter. Check thread diameter and use appropriate torque.
If torque was correct, bar diameter is too small for Check fit and replace one item to improve fit.
stem, causing bolt to bend before bar is secured.
SYMPTOM: Stem-binder bolt breaks when torqued.
Torque for steel bolts is being used on aluminum Check material and use correct torque.
bolt.
SYMPTOM: Handlebars creak when riding.
Handlebar-binder bolt is loose. Check torque.
Stem-binder bolt is loose. Check torque.
Stem shaft is creaking inside fork column due to Remove and grease stem shaft.
lack of grease.
Headset is creaking. Check headset for marginally loose pressed races
and loose headset locknut.
Reinforcement sleeve is creaking. Can only be identified by eliminating all other
choices. Try dripping penetrating Loctite into end
of sleeve. If this fails, live with noise or replace
handlebar.
28 – 17
29 – SEATS AND SEATPOSTS
Normal
Moves seat
forward
Lowers seat
Upper plate Clamp nut
Lower plate Seat rail
Integral cradle
Clamp bolt Seat post
Rail clamps
Rocking cradle
Seat rail
Clamp bolt
Clamp bolt
Seat rail
Lower plate
Integral cradle B – Angle bolt
Clamp bolt – A Seat post

SEATPOSTS 29 – 2
REMOVAL 29 – 2
DIFFICULT REMOVAL 29 – 2
SIZING 29 – 2
SEATS 29 – 3
REMOVAL 29 – 3
NON-INTEGRAL CLAMPS 29 – 3
SINGLE-BOLT INTEGRAL CLAMPS 29 – 4
DOUBLE-BOLT INTEGRAL CLAMPS 29 – 4
CLAMPS WITH ANGLE-ADJUSTMENT SCREWS 29 – 4

This chapter is about removing and installing seats There are no prerequisites for removing and installing
and seatposts. seatposts and seats.
INDICATIONS
GENERAL INFORMATION Seatposts
There are three reasons seatposts need to removed
TERMINOLOGY and installed:
1. Because they are bent.
Compression slot: The slot in the seat lug that is com-
2. Because they are undersized and will not secure.
pressed by the seatpost binder to secure the seatpost.
3. Because they are being upgraded.
Seatposts can corrode and stick inside the seat tube,
so it is good preventive maintenance to remove them and
grease them periodically.
Seats
Seats need to be removed and installed for the fol-
lowing reasons:
1. Because the seatpost is being changed.
2. The seat rails are bent.
3. The seat is torn or worn out.
4. Because the seat is being upgraded.
TOOL CHOICES
There are no special tools required for servicing
seatposts and seats, but Stein SZ-1 sizing rods are
29.1 The compression slot in the back of the seat extremely convenient for determining the correct
tube.
seatpost size.
Integral seat clamp: A seat clamp that is built into
the seatpost.
Non-integral seat clamp: A seat clamp that is sepa- TIME AND DIFFICULTY RATING
rate from the seatpost. Seatpost removal is a 1-minute job of little difficulty,
Seat: The platform on which the rider sits. It may unless it is stuck.
also be called a “saddle.” Seat removal and installation is a 1–3-minute job of
Seat clamp: The mechanism that clamps the seat to little difficulty.
the seatpost.
Seat lug: The portion of the frame where the seat-
post inserts.
COMPLICATIONS
Seat rails or rails: The rods or wires that are under- Difficult seatpost removal
neath the seat to which the seat clamp attaches. Seatposts can easily get stuck in the frame. They may
Seatpost: The shaft that the seat is mounted to that even get permanently stuck. There is a section of this
inserts into the seat tube of the frame. chapter about dealing with stuck seatposts.
Seatpost binder: The mechanism that secures the
seatpost to the frame.
29 – 1
Sizing seatposts may be as simple as the application of penetrating oil and

Because the seat lug may be deformed, it can be dif- a little patience, or they may mean that the seat and clamp
ficult to determine the correct size of seatpost. Because need to be removed so that the seatpost can be grasped in
the hole may not be round, measuring with a caliper can a vise (usually destroying the seatpost). In the worst-case
give misinformation. scenario, it may mean that the seatpost will have to be
deliberately destroyed to get it out. Follow this procedure
Difficult seatpost insertion only as far as necessary to get the post out.
Corrosion and seat-tube distortion can make seatpost 1. [ ] Remove seatpost binder bolt completely.
insertion difficult, even with the proper-size seatpost. Dif- 2. [ ] Use lever to spread compression slot so that it
ficult insertion should never be used as proof of poor fit. is slightly wider at the top than at the bottom.
See the SEAT-TUBE MILLING chapter (page 7-2), when a 3. [ ] Drip penetrating oil between seatpost and seat
correctly-fit seatpost is difficult to insert. tube and allow 5 minutes for it to penetrate.
4. [ ] With the bike on the floor, and one foot
Slipping seatposts in crotch of seat tube and down tube
Slipping seatposts are almost always undersized. An (being careful to not damage derailleurs
undersized post has been installed usually because the or chainrings), twist seat back and forth,
correct-fit post was difficult to install. while pulling up forcefully for no more than
30–45 seconds.
Adjusting seat angle 5. [ ] Add more penetrating oil and allow the seat-
Some seat clamps make it difficult to change the post and frame to cool off for 15 minutes.
seat angle. Either the seat changes angle while the clamp 6. [ ] Repeat steps 4–5 as many times as nec-
is being tightened, or the clamp does not allow for fine essary, unless progress is not being made.
adjustment of the seat angle. Always check the seat 7. [ ] If steps 1–6 are inadequate, disassemble
angle after securing the clamp, and if the correct angle seat clamp and remove seat.
8. [ ] With bike upside down in stand, strike bot-
is between two available settings, choose the setting that
tom of integral clamp (if any) repeatedly
leaves the nose of the seat higher.
with plastic mallet.
9. [ ] If previous step is not possible or fails, take
ABOUT THE REST bike out of stand and clamp end of seatpost
firmly in vise. Two people can pull and twist
OF THIS CHAPTER on frame to pull it off of seatpost.
The rest of this chapter is divided into two sections. 10. [ ] If everything to this point has failed, use
These are SEATPOSTS and SEATS. hacksaw to cut seat post off approximately
1" above seat lug.
11. [ ] Use jabsaw (special hacksaw holder), to cut
3–4 slots down inside of seatpost stub as
SEATPOSTS deeply as possible without cutting into seat-
tube material.
12. [ ] Crush protruding section of seatpost in vise
REMOVAL and use twist-and-pull procedure to pull
frame off of seat post.
1. [ ] Mark seatpost with tape or marking pen if
height needs to be restored.
2. [ ] Loosen seatpost binder bolt.
3. [ ] Remove seatpost with a gentle twisting and
SIZING
The best way to measure a seat tube for the correct size
pulling motion.
4. [ ] Inspect inserted portion of seatpost for
of seatpost is to use an Stein SZ-1 sizing rod. If this is not
scratches that indicate seat tube should be available, then a caliper can be used, but several measure-
honed and/or reamed. ments should be taken and averaged.
5. [ ] Inspect inserted portion of seatpost for cor- Because the seat lug may be deformed or contami-
rosion that indicates need for honing of seat nated, force may be required to install the SZ-1 to the
tube and better greasing in future. largest possible diameter that will fit. As long as the force
is by hand (no impact), it is not possible to insert the tool
DIFFICULT REMOVAL to a larger dimension than will be correct. When inserting
the tool, align the flatted side with the compression slot.
If the seatpost will not remove easily in the previous
step #3, extra measures will be required. These measures
29 – 2
always acceptable. Quick-release mechanisms cannot be
torqued at all. Quick-release mechanisms also require a
wide variety of setups in order to secure them properly.
It is not required that a seatpost binder mechanism
make the seatpost immobile. It is likely that the seat lug
will be damaged if immobilization is attempted. Step #12
requires putting a lateral load on the nose of the seat. The
binder should be tightened until the post resists slipping
at 50 pounds of force at the nose of the seat.
11. [ ] Bolt-type seatpost binder mechanisms:
Secure bolt to 60in-lbs minimum.
Quick-release mechanisms: Adjust quick
release so that force occurs through 45°
of motion while closing lever to parallel-to-
frame position.
12. [ ] Test seatpost security. It should withstand
29.2 The compression slot is narrow at the top due at least 50lbs applied to side of seat nose
to previous installation of an undersized seatpost. Use without seatpost rotating.
stacks of feeler gauges to compare the slot width from 13. If seatpost fails test in step 12:
top to bottom.
[ ] Bolt-type seatpost-binder mechanisms:
1. [ ] Spread or compress compression slot to uni- Increase torque by 5in-lb increments until
form width at top and bottom. test is passed.
2. [ ] Insert SZ-1 sizing rod as far as it will go [ ] Quick-release mechanisms: Adjust quick
and read dimension off of largest segment release so that clamping force begins earlier
that inserted. by 15° increments until test is passed.
INSTALLATION
1. [ ] If old seatpost was scratched or corroded,
hone and ream seat tube as necessary (see SEATS
SEAT-TUBE MILLING, page 7-2).
2. [ ] If reinstalling old scratched or corroded
seatpost, clean it thoroughly with emery cloth.
REMOVAL
3. [ ] Grease inserted portion of seatpost thor-
Before removing any customer’s seat that will be
oughly. reinstalled, measurements of its angle and fore-and-aft
4. [ ] Grease inside of seat tube thoroughly. position should be taken.
5. [ ] Grease seatpost binder-mechanism threads. If the seat is being removed because a bent seatpost is
6. [ ] Oil quick-release pivot (if any). being replaced, then it would do little good just to measure
Seatposts have a mark for minimum insertion. It the seat angle. Instead, measure the difference between the
must never be left above the seat lug, even on a used seat angle and the seatpost angle. A dial protractor can be
seatpost that was being ridden that way before. If no used for both of these angle measurements. To measure
mark can be found, insert the seatpost to a depth of the seat angle accurately, place a long straightedge from
at least 2.5". seat nose to tail and place the protractor on top of it.
7. [ ] Insert seatpost at least to Minimum insert or To measure fore and aft, just record the distance from
Maximum height mark or to previous mark if the back side of the stem shaft to the seat nose.
restoring customer setting. 1. [
] Measure and record seatpost angle: ______°
8. [ ] Gently secure post at desired height. 2. [
] Measure and record seat angle: –______°
9. [ ] Install seat, if not already installed (see 3. [
] Subtract to get angle difference: =______°
INSTALLATION, page 29-4). 4. [
] Measure seat nose distance from back of
10. [ ] Align nose of seat directly above center of stem shaft and record here: ______mm
top tube of frame. 5. [ ] Loosen clamp bolt and remove seat.
There is not a recommended torque in the following
step for seatpost-binder mechanisms for several reasons.
Variations in thread pitch, bolt size, and seat-lug design NON-INTEGRAL CLAMPS
make if too difficult to establish a narrow range that is Non-integral clamps are the most primitive type
and offer the least angle adjustment. Make sure the
29 – 3
serrations on the facing plates are engaged before Grease threads and alternate tightening whichever
tightening the nut(s). If there are nuts on both sides, bolt is needed to change the seat angle to desired posi-
be sure to tighten them equally. Normal torque on nuts tion. When angle is correct, alternate tightening both bolts
(threads greased) is 130–170in-lbs. See the following equally until both have reached a torque of 85–95in-lbs.
illustrations for clamp orientations.
Rail clamps
Normal Rocking cradle

Seat rail
Moves seat Clamp bolt

Clamp bolt
forward
29.5 Double-bolt integral seat clamp.
Lowers seat
CLAMPS WITH ANGLE-
ADJUSTMENT SCREWS
29.3 Normal and optional clamp orientations. Clamps with an angle-adjustment screw are variations
of a single-bolt integral clamp. Like the single-bolt integral
clamp, there is a large bolt that goes through the center of
SINGLE-BOLT INTEGRAL the cradle. There is a second bolt or screw (generally smaller)
that is toward the front or back of the cradle. This is the
CLAMPS angle-adjustment screw.
Single-bolt integral clamps have a single bolt, usually With the main clamp bolt loose, adjust the angle-
accessed from below the clamp and behind the seatpost. adjustment screw to the desired location, then tighten
The threads should be greased, and the bolt should be the main clamp bolt to 120–145in-lbs.
torqued to 120–145in-lbs. Angle is adjusted by moving
the seat when the clamp bolt is loose. Some models have
a tendency for the angle to change while the clamp bolt is
being secured. Check the angle after securing the bolt. Seat rail
Lower plate
Integral cradle B – Angle bolt
Lower plate Seat rail

Clamp bolt – A Seat post
Integral cradle 29.6 Single-bolt integral seat clamp with an angle-
adjustment screw. To set angle, loosen A, then tighten
or loosen B. To secure, tighten A.
Clamp bolt Seat post
29.4 Single-bolt integral seat clamp.
INSTALLATION
The customer’s existing seat position should be
DOUBLE-BOLT INTEGRAL maintained as closely as possible if the seat is removed
and reinstalled or replaced, no matter how unorthodox
CLAMPS the position is. There’s certainly no harm in bringing the
Double-bolt integral clamps have two clamp bolts unorthodox seat position up when they return for the bike,
that work in opposition. When one is loosened and the but don’t be surprised if the customer is adamant that it
other is tightened, the seat angle will change. The two is comfortable just the way it is.
bolts are generally identical and are on opposite sides of When setting up bikes for sale, the seat should be
the center of the cradle, with neither bolt going through set at a neutral position. This means that the fore-and-aft
the center of the cradle. adjustment should be in the middle of the range and that
29 – 4
the angle should be as close to flat as possible. If serra-
tions in the seat clamp do not allow a flat angle, set the
nose at the first click up.
6. [ ] Install seat in seat clamp, but do not secure.
7. [ ] Adjust seat to match original position or to
shop's angle and fore/aft standards.
8. [ ] Secure clamp to recommended torque.
Non-integral clamps:
130–170in-lbs
Single-bolt integral clamps:
120–145in-lbs
Double-bolt integral clamps:
85–95in-lbs
Single-bolt integral clamps with angle-
adjustment screws (main bolt only):
120–145in-lbs
Testing seat security
It is not sufficient to simply torque the seat clamp to
the recommended torque and forget it. A seat that tips
when the rider is on it can dump the rider on the top tube
or rear tire with catastrophic results. To test seat security, exert
a downward pressure of at least 75 pounds on the nose of the seat.
It should not slip at all.
9. [ ] Apply 75lb load down on nose of seat to
check for slip.
29 – 5
30 – DERAILLEUR CONTROLS
3 2
1
1. Remove Cover 3. Loosen

fixing bolt Spring Phillips
Bushing screw
Brake/shift lever
Release lever
2. Deflect
lever
BELOW-BAR SHIFTERS 30 – 3
INNER-WIRE INSTALLATION 30 – 4
SERVICE 30 – 4
TOP-MOUNT SHIFTERS 30 – 7
INNER-WIRE INSTALLATION 30 – 7
TWIST-GRIP SHIFTERS 30 – 8
GRIP SHIFT 30 – 8
SACHS POWER GRIP AND POWER GRIP PRO 30 – 10
INTEGRATED SHIFT/BRAKE LEVERS 30 – 11
SHIMANO STI SERVICE 30 – 11
CAMPAGNOLO ERGOPOWER WIRE AND LEVER REMOVAL 30 – 14
CAMPAGNOLO 8-SPEED ERGOPOWER SERVICE 30 – 14
CAMPAGNOLO 9/10-SPEED ERGOPOWER SERVICE 30 – 16
CAMPAGNOLO ERGOPOWER WIRE AND LEVER INSTALLATION 30 – 20
DOWN-TUBE LEVERS 30 – 20
SERVICE 30 – 20
BAR-END SHIFTERS 30 – 21
REMOVAL 30 – 21
SERVICE 30 – 21
STEM SHIFTERS 30 – 21
SERVICE 30 – 21
DERAILLEUR-CONTROL TROUBLESHOOTING 30 – 21
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER than anywhere within a prescribed range. When an indexed
derailleur control is moved to one of the prescribed posi-
This chapter is about shift levers and twist-grip
tions, the shift is completed automatically.
shifters. There is a separate chapter about the setup of
Inner wire: The wire portion of the derailleur cable.
derailleur cables that attach to the derailleur controls
May be shortened to wire.
(DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS, page 31-1), but this
Integrated shift/brake levers: Derailleur controls
chapter includes information about installing the inner
found on road bikes and mountain bikes with which the
wire into the derailleur control. There is a separate REAR
shift levers are integrated into the brake levers. May be
DERAILLEURS chapter (page 32-1) and FRONT DERAIL-
shortened to integrated lever.
LEURS chapter (page 33-1).
Rear derailleur: The mechanism that moves the
chain between gear choices on the rear hub.
Shifter drum: A cylinder that the cable wraps around
GENERAL INFORMATION when the shifter is rotated.
Shift lever: A lever that is rotated about a pivot to
move the inner wire that operates the derailleur.
TERMINOLOGY Stem shifters: Derailleur controls that are mounted
Adjusting barrel: A hollow bolt that the inner wire on the vertical shaft of the stem.
passes through, with a socket head into which the hous- Thumb shifters: See top-mount shifters.
ing inserts. The adjusting barrel is screwed in and out Top-mount shifters: Derailleur controls that are
of the derailleur control to adjust the relative length of mounted on top of MTB-style handlebars.
the inner wire. Twist grip: A cylinder that is part of the hand grip
Bar cons: See bar-end shifters. on the handlebar and that is rotated around the handlebar
Bar-end shifters: Derailleur controls that are to move the inner wire that operates the derailleur.
mounted in the ends of drop-style handlebars or on the
ends of time-trial/triathon handlebars.
Below-bar shifters: Derailleur controls that are
PREREQUISITES
If installing a new derailleur control or replacing an exist-
mounted so that they are reached by using the thumb
ing one, cable installation and derailleur-indexing adjustment
below the bar on MTB-style handlebars.
will be required. There are no other prerequisites.
Derailleur cable: The inner wire and housing that
work as a unit to transfer a change at the derailleur control
to the derailleur. INDICATIONS
Derailleur control: A lever or twist grip that the rider
uses to control the derailleur operations. Maintenance
Down-tube levers: Derailleur controls that are Most of the time, the only maintenance needed by
mounted on the down tube of the frame. a derailleur control is lubrication. Sometimes they need
Friction (shifting): A shifting system in which the partial disassembling and cleaning.
derailleur control moves to an infinite number of posi- Derailleur replacement
tions within a prescribed range. The derailleur control is Derailleurs and derailleur controls must be compat-
moved to wherever the operator chooses to complete the ible. Sometimes changing a derailleur means that a new
shift. It is not automatic. derailleur control is needed.
Front derailleur: The mechanism that moves the
chain between gear choices on the crankset.
Rear cogset replacement
Sometimes a cogset will be changed to have more
Grip Shift: See twist grip.
gears. The derailleur may be able to handle the increase,
Housing: The outer sheath of the derailleur cable.
but an indexing derailleur control is almost always set for
Indexed (shifting): A shifting system in which the
a specific number of gears.
derailleur control stops at prescribed increments, rather
30 – 1
Symptoms indicating need for cleaning motion must be the correct amount to move the derailleur
Any shifting system is complex and a symptom may precisely from one gear to the next.
be caused by any of several parts of the system. An index- Any table of compatibility is doomed to becoming
ing lever in need of cleaning will create a symptom of outdated rapidly. Manufacturer’s technical support and
the indexing adjustment being too tight and too loose at literature will always be a better source of information.
the same time. This can also be caused by control-cable As a general guideline, different brands of shifters and
problems, dirty or worn-out chain or derailleur, or com- derailleurs can rarely be matched (except Grip Shift brand,
patibility problems with the derailleur control, derailleur, which are made specifically for other brands of derail-
chain, and cogset. leurs). Even models within a brand may be incompatible;
for example, Shimano Dura-Ace components can’t be
Symptoms indicating need for mixed with other Shimano components.
replacement When in doubt, it is possible to test whether two com-
The symptoms indicating need for replacement is ponents are compatible. In the REAR DERAILLEURS chapter
the same as the symptoms indicating need for cleaning, is a section called FUNCTIONAL RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT
except when all the other causes have been eliminated and (page 32-20) that describes a test that measures shifting
cleaning has been done, the symptom persists. performance. If mismatched equipment performs well in
Indexing derailleur controls have delicate internal this test, it is compatible.
parts that sometimes break. The symptom will be either
a lever that will not move, or it moves but the control
Compatibility with inner wire
Shape and size of the inner-wire head are important.
cable cannot. The same symptom can also be caused by
Some modern shifters have plastic sockets that the inner-
the inner wire being installed wrong. If the inner wire is in
wire head seats in. If it is not a good fit, it can jam in place
correctly, the derailleur control needs to be replaced.
and be very difficult to ever get out. Before using a wire,
insert its head backward into the shifter socket and make
TOOL CHOICES sure it slips all the way in and out easily.
Installing and removing a derailleur control requires Inner-wire diameter is important with indexing
no special tools. As a consequence of installing a derail- shifters. The amount of cable pulled with each click of
leur control, the derailleur will need adjustment, but any the shifter is a function of the diameter of the cylinder
special tools for this are covered in the REAR DERAIL- (shifter drum) that the cable is wrapping around and the
LEURS chapter (page 32-4) and FRONT DERAILLEURS inner-wire diameter. Until 1995, all indexing levers used
chapter (page 33-3). Shimano STI levers (road-bike shift a 1.2mm inner wire except Shimano Dura-Ace (1.6mm).
levers that are integrated into the brake levers) require a Shimano switched to a 1.1mm wire in 1995, and back to
couple of special tools called the TL-ST01 and TL-ST02 1.2mm in 1996.
for disassembling the lever. Integration with brake levers
Certain shifters on MTBs share a mount with the
TIME AND DIFFICULTY brake lever. The configuration of the mount is specific
In most cases, installing a derailleur control is a 2–5 to the model of shifter. When one of these older shifters
minute job of little difficulty. Adjustment of the derailleur needs replacement, it is possible that the brake levers and
is additional. If installing bar-end shifters, taping the bars shifters will both need replacement.
is additional. If changing between a lever system that is Compatibility with brake levers
integrated with the brake levers and one that is not, brake- Derailleur controls and brake levers are mounted in
lever installation and brake adjustment would take additional close proximity to each other on MTB handlebars. Mixing
time. For the time and difficulty rating of all these additional some brands and models together may make it difficult
factors, see the chapters that pertain to them. to set the ideal alignment of the derailleur control and
the brake lever. When this occurs and another equipment
COMPLICATIONS change is necessary, always compromise the derailleur-
control position instead of the brake-lever position.
Compatibility with derailleur
Derailleur controls must be compatible with the Symptom caused by multiple items
derailleurs. An indexing shifter moves a fixed amount of When indexing shift performance is poor, the nature
cable for each click of the control. This amount of cable of the symptom will not necessarily point to one specific
cause. A shifter, cable, derailleur, chain, or rear cogset
30 – 2
could all cause the same symptom. Patience to investigate 2. [ ] Slide shift/brake lever over end of bar.
all the possible causes of the symptom is required to nar- 3. [ ] Install grip to final position.
row it down to, or to exclude, the shifter as the cause. 4. [ ] Slide shift/brake lever outward until clamp is
against inside edge of grip.
5. [ ] Remove and lubricate brake-lever binder bolt.
ABOUT THE REST 6. [ ] Install brake-lever binder bolt and gently snug.
OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter is divided into seven sections,
for each type of derailleur control. Each section is divided
into an installation sub-section and a service sub-section.
Some sections are divided further, when different brands 45º
or models within a category require different procedures.
The seven sections are:
BELOW-BAR SHIFTERS
TOP-MOUNT SHIFTERS
TWIST-GRIP SHIFTERS
30.1 Rotate the brake lever 45° down from horizontal.
INTEGRATED SHIFT/BRAKE LEVERS
DOWN-TUBE LEVERS 7. [ ] With bike in on-ground position, use dial
BAR-END SHIFTERS protractor to rotate lever so that brake-lever
body is 45° from horizontal.
STEM SHIFTERS
8. [ ] Secure brake-lever binder bolt to 35–50in-lbs.
Non-integrated below-bar shifters
1. [ ] Remove binder bolt from shifter-mounting
BELOW-BAR SHIFTERS strap or clamp.
2. [ ] Lubricate binder-bolt threads.
Types 3. [ ] Install shifter, brake lever, and then grip onto
Many below-bar shifters are integrated with the brake handlebar. Correctly position brake lever
lever. They can be removed from the brake lever for clean- (adjacent to grip and rotated down 45° from
ing or replacement, but to install and align them, the brake flat), then secure brake lever to 35–50in-lbs.
lever must be installed and aligned. 4. [ ] Install shifter-binder bolt and gently snug.
Another type of below-bar shifter is not integrated 5. [ ] Under-bar release lever only: Slide shifter out-
ward toward brake lever and check clearance
with the brake lever. This type needs to be positioned
between release lever and brake-lever body.
relative to the brake lever after correctly positioning NOTE: Adjust lateral position so tip of release
the brake lever. lever clears brake-lever body by 2–5mm at
Terminology closest point of release-lever swing!
Behind-bar release lever only: Slide shifter
Brake-lever binder bolt: The bolt that secures the
to point shift-lever tips are even with inward
brake-lever clamp to the handlebar.
end of grip.
Pod-mounting bolt: The bolt that secures the shifter
pod to the pod-mounting plate.
Pod-mounting plate: The flat plate that is part of
the brake-lever body.
45º
Release lever: The lever that is operated to release
the derailleur-cable tension.
Shifter pod: The complete derailleur control that is
part of an integrated shift/brake lever. 30.2 Rotate the shifter 45° down from horizontal.
Up-shift lever: The lever that is operated (usually 6. [ ] Rotate shifter so that levers move in a plane
with the thumb) to increase the derailleur-cable tension. 45° down from horizontal. NOTE: If properly
rotated, shift levers should move in a plane
INSTALLATION parallel to plane in which brake lever moves.
Check operation of both levers to determine
Integrated shift/brake levers if levers interfere with any part of brake lever!
1. [ ] Remove grip if necessary. 7. [ ] Tighten shifter-binder bolt to 25–30in-lbs.
30 – 3
INNER-WIRE INSTALLATION 1. [ ] Press release lever 8 times to make sure shift

mechanism is in fully released condition.
Shimano Rapidfire and Rapidfire Plus 2. [ ] Remove cable-anchor cover by pivoting it
up toward handlebar or by removing small
inner-wire installation Phillips screws and lifting cover off lever
Shimano Rapidfire levers (both levers pushed with (depending on model).
the thumb) may have a cover plate retained by a Phillips 3. [ ] Line up slot in adjusting barrel with slot in
screw that has to be removed to access the inside of the adjusting-barrel mount.
shifter for inner-wire installation. Some Rapidfire Plus 4. [ ] Swing cable anchor up toward handlebar.
levers have a plug in the access hole for the inner wire. 5. [ ] Hook inner-wire head into cable anchor.
Rapidfire SL levers (described after the next heading) have 6. [ ] Swing inner wire into slot in adjusting-barrel
a completely different cable-installation process. mount and into slot in adjusting barrel.
Shimano Rapidfire and Rapidfire Plus (release lever 7. [ ] Rotate adjusting barrel 1/2 turn so inner wire
will not accidentally come out.
operated by index finger) shifters need to be fully released
8. [ ] Replace cable-anchor access cover.
in order to correctly install the inner wire. The wire can be
installed without fully releasing the shifter, but the lever
will not operate correctly. SERVICE
1. [ ] Remove access cover plate, if any. Shifter pods can be replaced or cleaned, but they are
2. [ ] Operate release lever at least 8 times to never disassembled to replace individual parts because the
insure lever is fully released.
individual parts are not sold.
Earlier Shimano levers were difficult to install inner
wires in, because once the inner wire was installed through Shimano shifter-pod replacement
the hole in the shifter drum, it would not pass easily Shifter pods are attached one of three ways at this
through the adjusting barrel. Sometimes it is necessary time. First, a little orientation. The front of the shift/
to remove the adjusting barrel from the shifter to complete brake-control unit is the side that can be seen when stand-
the inner-wire installation. ing in front of the bike and facing it. The back face is the
3. [ ] Insert end of wire through access hole into side that would face toward the rider’s knees. Some models
inner-wire-head socket and out through have the shifter pod mounted on a plate that is visible
adjusting barrel. from the front. There is a bolt head in the center of the
4. [ ] Pull inner wire through until head seats into shifter pod on the back face of the assembly. These will
socket in the shifter drum. be called exposed-plate models (see figure 30.3, page
5. [ ] Pulling firmly on inner wire, push up-shift lever
30-5). Some models have the shifter pod mounted on
and then release lever to test whether wire
moves toward and away from shifter as levers
a plate that is enclosed between the shifter pod and the
are operated. NOTE: If test is failed, inner wire gear-indicator unit. There is a bolt head in the center of
is installed wrong and must be removed! the shifter pod on the back face of the assembly. These
will be called enclosed-plate models (see figure 30.4,
Shimano Rapidfire SL inner-wire page 30-5). Shimano Rapidfire SL models have an exposed
installation plate, but there is no bolt head in the center of the shifter
Shimano Rapidfire SL shift mechanisms are distin- pod (see figure 30.5, page 30-5). Rapidfire SL levers can
guished in appearance by the fact that there is a slot in also be identified by the unique fact that they have a slot in
the derailleur-cable adjusting barrel for quick-releasing the derailleur-cable adjusting barrel that is used for moving
the cable out of the shift mechanism. On less-expensive the inner wire in and out of the adjusting barrel. This last
models, there is a cover that swings out of place to expose type will be called Rapidfire SL models.
the anchor for the inner-wire head. More-expensive mod- Exposed-plate models: To remove the shifter, loosen
els have a similar cover, but instead of swinging out of the bolt that is visible on the front face of the mount-
place, two tiny Phillips screws hold it in place. In both ing plate (see figure 30.3, page 30-5). Note the rotational
cases, the cover is accessed from the back face of the orientation of the shifter because it may have multiple
lever unit, just below the handlebar; where the inner-wire mounting positions. When the bolt is fully removed, the
slot ends in the mount for the adjusting barrel, the cover shifter pod will pull off the back side of the plate. When
begins. Underneath the cover is a pivoting cable anchor, reinstalling, make sure that the positioning pegs go into
just like the one in the brake lever into which the brake the desired positioning holes in the mounting plate. Use
inner wire attaches. Loctite 222 on the mounting-bolt threads and torque the
bolt(s) to 25in-lbs.
30 – 4
Exposed plate distinguished by having an enclosed mounting plate and

Pod an under-the-bar indicator unit.
Rapidfire SL models: Remove the gear indicator and
the derailleur inner wire first. The shifter pod on these
Pod-mounting bolt
models is held in place by three Phillips screws. All the
screws are on the back face of the pod. One is close to the
derailleur-cable adjusting barrel. Another is just clockwise
of the release lever. The third one is just counterclockwise
of the release lever. One of the screws near the release
lever may be hidden by the up-shift lever. When these
three screws are removed, the shifter pod pulls easily off
Front of bike its mount (see figure 30.5, below).
Brake lever
3 (hidden)
30.3 Removing the pod from the exposed plate.

Enclosed-plate models: The shifter-pod mounting 2
bolt goes through the center of the pod and is accessed
1
from the back face of the pod. It is often secured with
a heavy-duty Loctite and may be difficult to break loose.
The bolt is threaded into a sleeve nut with a flatted flange
that is hidden behind the gear-indicator unit. The flatted
flange tends to pop out of its recess and just spin, so pull 30.5 To remove the pod from a Rapidfire SL model,
remove screws 1, 2, and 3.
out on the shifter pod firmly while loosening or tightening
the mounting bolt. If the sleeve nut spins uncontrollably, Shimano Rapidfire and Rapidfire Plus
it will be necessary to remove the gear-indicator unit.
gear-indicator-unit replacement
Plastic cover Gear indicator The following information covers gear-indicator
Front of bike removal and replacement for earlier Shimano Rapidfire
and Rapidfire Plus models. There is another section fol-
lowing this one for Rapidfire SL models (distinguished by
Brake lever slot in derailleur-cable adjusting barrel). There are several
Brake-lever body ways that the gear indicator is mounted to the shift/brake
control. When the pod is mounted to an exposed-plate
model, the indicator unit comes off with the pod. These
will be called integrated type (figure 30.6, page 30-6).
Shifter pod Other types on enclosed-plate models may be over-the-bar
or under-the-bar indicator units. All of these are not
Pod-mounting bolt integrated with the shifter pod and come off separately.
The under-the-bar type will be called non-integrated
30.4 Removing the pod from an enclosed-plate unit.
under-the-bar type (figure 30.7, page 30-6). The over-
When installing the pod, make sure the lever is fully the-bar types come in three variations at the time of this
released so that the post on the colorful plastic plate writing! These will be called hidden-screw over-the-bar
that activates the gear indicator goes in the hole that is type (figure 30.8, page 30-6), visible-screw over-the-
supposed to engage it. Use Loctite 222 on the mounting- bar type (figure 30.9, page 30-7), and Rapidfire SL type
bolt threads and torque to 25in-lbs. On some models, (described under separate heading).
the pod cannot be removed unless the gear-indicator unit Integrated type: This is found on 700CX and
is also removed. This includes STX and Alivio Models 400CX models. After removing the pod from the mount,
with “MC” in the model number, which are visually unthread two Phillips screws on the back side of the pod
30 – 5
that are just below the indicator window (see figure 30.6). When reinstalling the indicator arm, the spring must
The indicator unit cover will lift off of the pod. The be set up to force the arm fully counterclockwise. The
indicator itself is a thin, sliding plastic strip that cannot plastic actuator lifts out of the shifter-pod mounting
be removed correctly without fully disassembling the pod plate to expose the flanged sleeve nut into which the
unit, which should not be done. If the strip is damaged and pod-mounting bolt screws. When reinstalling, the pod
jamming, it can be ripped out with a pair of pliers after unit needs to be shifted to the fully released condition
removing the cover. so that the long pin on the actuator will line up properly
Indicator-cover screws
with the hole into which it inserts.
Hidden-screw over-the-bar type: When this type is
on the handlebar, no screws can be seen in the indicator
unit when viewed from the front. The whole shift/brake-
control unit must be removed from the handlebar to remove
the indicator. Once the whole assembly is off the bar, one
screw will become visible that was hidden by the handlebar
(see figure 30.8). The other screw is on the back face of the
casting, just below the bottom of the shifter pod. Remove
both these screws. Do not remove the two screws in the indicator unit
that are close to the window! Remove the brake-cable adjusting
barrel. On the front face of the control unit, the brake-
lever reach-adjustment screw must be removed so that the
30.6 Shifting pod with an integrated gear indicator.
indicator unit can be lifted off. Pull on the indicator unit to
Non-integrated under-the-bar type: Remove two remove it from the lever body.
Phillips screws that are on the back side of the pod (see
figure 30.7) and just outside the perimeter of the pod
cover, which rotates when the up-shift lever is operated. 3 2
Remove the brake-lever reach-adjustment screw. On
1
the front side of the indicator unit, remove the Phillips

screw that is adjacent to the brake-cable adjusting-barrel 1
locknut. Lift off the indicator-unit cover. The orange
2
indicator arm (spring loaded, be careful) just lifts out
of the cover plate. 3
321
54
6
7
2 4
1
30.8 To remove the indicator unit from a hidden-

screw over-the-bar type, remove screws 1 and 2, adjust-
4 ing barrel (3) and screw 4.
3 Visible-screw over-the-bar type: This type can be

removed without removing the whole shift/brake-control
unit from the lever. Viewed from the front, small screws
at the base of the indicator-unit tower and close to the
brake-cable adjusting barrel will be seen (see figure 30.9,
page 30-7). Remove these with a #0 Phillips screwdriver,
30.7 To remove an indicator unit from a non-integrated and the indicator unit lifts right off. Some models require
under-the-bar type, remove screws 1, 2, 3, and 4.
30 – 6
removal of the brake-reach adjuster screw. Do not disas- After removing the pod and cover(s), soak the pod
semble the unit! The plastic actuator lifts up and the mount in solvent. After it has soaked, agitate it in the solvent
cover snaps off. and repeatedly operate the levers while it is submerged.
Blow it dry thoroughly and generously lube it with a heavy-
weight spray lube.
3 2
1
1 2
TOP-MOUNT SHIFTERS
INSTALLATION
Top-mount shifters are installed inward of the
30.9 To remove the indicator unit from a visible-screw brake levers. The shifter is above and in front of the
over-the-bar type, remove screws 1 and 2. handlebar.
The end of the lever extends to the grip, and if the
Shimano Rapidfire SL gear-indicator- lever is positioned too far outward it can interfere with
unit removal and installation use of the grip. Some models have cast clamps and must
Rapidfire SL models are distinguished by a slot in be slid on the bar from the end before installing the brake
the derailleur-cable adjusting barrel. The gear indicator lever or grip. Some models have strap clamps that can be
is on the front face of the plate on which the shifter pod spread open and slipped over the bar while the brake lever
mounts. Removing two small Phillips screws enables the and grip are in place.
gear-indicator unit to be lifted off the mounting plate. 1. [ ] With brake lever and grip in final positions,
An asymmetrical hexagonal plastic stud in the back face mount shifter loosely, inward of brake lever.
2. [ ] Lubricate mounting-bolt threads and snug
of the gear indicator engages an asymmetrical hexagonal
bolt gently so that shifter can easily be
socket that is in a hole in the mounting plate; if the shifter
moved but will stay in place by itself.
pod is in the fully released mode when installing the gear 3. [ ] Operate shift lever so that lever is parallel to
indicator unit, the asymmetrical stud and socket will line up handlebar.
automatically. Later models have two plastic pegs instead 4. [ ] Move lever unit laterally so that end of lever
of the asymmetrical hex stud. When removing and install- is even with and not overlapping inward end
ing the gear-indicator unit, the brake-lever reach-adjusting of grip.
bolt may need to be removed. 5. [ ] Rotate lever unit around handlebar until lever
swings in a plane that is parallel to ground.
Shimano shifter-pod cleaning and Lever rotation is acceptable in a range from parallel to
lubrication the ground to rotated 45° forward. A position of 25–30°
Before replacing a shifter pod that is not functioning, forward is recommended.
consider cleaning and re-lubing it. To clean it, the pod 6. [ ] Rotate lever forward to desired angle
must be removed from the mount, and the cover must be (25–30° recommended).
removed from the pod. On pods with integrated indicators, 7. [ ] Secure mounting bolt to 20–25in-lbs.
the indicator cover should also be removed.
The technique for removing pod covers is different
for different models. On exposed-mount types only, there
INNER-WIRE INSTALLATION
When installing the inner wire, thread it fully through
may be a single large Phillips screw at the center of the
the socket on the shifter drum so that the head ends up
pod cover on the back side. Some exposed mount types have
in the socket, then put the end of the wire through the
an additional small Phillips screw at the perimeter of the
housing stop or adjusting barrel and draw the wire fully
pod cover that must also be removed. Some exposed mount
through. Putting the wire partially through the hole in
types have only a small Phillips screw at the perimeter of
the shifter drum and then through the housing stop,
the pod cover. All enclosed mount types have only a small
before pulling the wire all the way through the hole in
Phillips screw at the perimeter of the pod cover.
the shifter drum, will result is the inner wire developing
The Rapidfire SL models have a small Phillips screw
a corkscrew bend.
at the base of the up-shift lever that must be removed in
order to remove the pod cover.
30 – 7
TWIST-GRIP SHIFTERS Detaching cable

NOTE: Go to step 18 (page 30-9) if only replacing
inner wire in a hatchless-type shifter or to step
GRIP SHIFT 26 (page 30-10) if only replacing an inner wire
on a hatch-type shifter.
Variations 1. [ ] Rotate shifter forward to fully release inner
The oldest design is characterized by the fact that the wire and disconnect inner wire from derailleur.
inner-wire head is installed in the fixed portion of the
assembly. These are identified by examining the innermost
Cover-plate removal
Most Grip Shift mechanisms have a cover plate that
face of the shifter for a socket into which an inner-wire
must be removed for disassembly, but some do not.
head fits (see figure 30.11). For purposes of this manual,
If the inner wire is exposed in a groove around the bend
this type is called a fixed-head shifter.
at the base of the adjusting barrel, there is no cover plate.
The current designs have no socket on the innermost
If there is no exposed wire, look for a Phillips screw in
face of the shifter for the inner-wire head because the head
the outward face of the base that goes out to the adjusting
of the inner wire is attached to the rotating portion of the
barrel (see figure 30.10). When the screw is removed, the
shifter. Once this fact is ascertained, then the shifter may
plate comes right off.
be a hatch-type shifter or a hatchless-type shifter. The
If there is no exposed wire or Phillips screw, look for
presence or lack of a hatch in the outer perimeter of the
a shallow slot on the inward face of the base that just fits
stationary shifter body (for the purpose of accessing the
a 3/16" screwdriver blade and goes out to the adjusting
inner wire) determines the type of shifter when there is
barrel (figure 30.11). Insert a screwdriver in this slot and
no wire-head socket exposed on the innermost face.
twist or pry to pop the cover plate off.
Installation
1. [ ] Loosen brake lever. 2 Cover-plate screw
2. [ ] Slide Grip Shift shifting unit onto handlebar. 1
The washer installed in the next step is very important
3
because it keeps the shifter from binding against the grip.

3. [ ] Slide 7/8" thin plastic washer onto handlebar.
4. [ ] Install grip fully onto handlebar.
5. [ ] Slide Grip Shift shifter outward so that it is
against inward end of grip.
6. [ ] Secure brake lever at final rotational and lat-
eral positions.
For securing the Grip Shift to the handlebar, there is
a binder bolt with a hex-socket head. The bolt is located
30.10 This outward-end view shows the Phillips
at the inward end of the unit, at a location that will be screw that holds on the cover plate on some models.
toward the back side and bottom when the unit is on the
handlebar with the adjusting barrel positioned just below Slot Cover plate
the brake lever (see figure 30.12, page 30-9).
7. [ ] Remove and lube mounting-binder bolt.
Depending on the setup of the frame and handlebars,
the conventional positioning of the adjusting barrels below
the brake levers might create an awkward cable routing. If
this is the case, do not hesitate to try positioning the Grip
Shift adjusting barrels above the brake-lever bodies.
8. [ ] Rotate Grip Shift shifter until its adjusting bar-
rel is just below brake-lever body, then install
and gently secure binder bolt/set screw.
9. [ ] Operate brake lever to make sure Grip Shift Inner-wire head
does not interfere with operation and repo- 30.11 This inward-end view shows the slot used to
sition shifter as necessary. pry off the cover plate on some models. The inner-wire
10. [ ] Secure binder bolt (3mm hex socket) to head is in this position on all fixed-head shifters.
17in-lbs (6lbs@3"). 2. [ ] Remove cover plate on base that goes out to
adjusting barrel.
30 – 8
Removing twist unit and cable 11. [ ] Slide shifter onto barrel of housing. Place
loop of housing up feed ramp and into
3. [ ] Remove the grip and washer just outward of
shifter. groove around inward end of twist unit, then
go to step 14.
If a cover plate was removed, the twist unit will pull
out of the housing effortlessly. If the model had no cover Inserting inner wire in shifter with
plate, it must be rotated fully back (pulling the cable as far wire-head socket in twist unit
as possible) before pulling it off with some effort. 12. [ ] Insert wire into socket in twist unit, seat wire
4. [ ] Pull twist unit out of housing. Models with head fully, then thread in retaining screw (if
no cover plate must be rotated fully back any) on top of head (do not torque).
before pulling. 13. [ ] Slide twist unit onto barrel of shifter housing
5. [ ] Push inner wire into adjusting barrel until and insert wire through adjusting barrel.
end is through and out of adjusting barrel.
Some shifters have the inner-wire head inserted in a Assembling shifter
socket that is in the inward face of the shifter housing. 14. [ ] Line up twist unit so that any part of gear-
indicator range on twist unit lines up with
Some shifters have the inner-wire head inserted in the
gear-indicator mark on shifter housing.
large cylinder surface of the twist unit. 15. [ ] Pull firmly on inner wire while pushing twist
6. [ ] Push inner wire out of twist unit (set screw
unit in with firm pressure. Rotate twist unit
on top of inner-wire head must be removed)
back and forth to get spring to line up with
or out of shifter housing.
detent until parts seat together fully.
Cleaning and lubrication 16. [ ] Install cover plate, if any.
7. [ ] Parts should only be cleaned with a mild 17. [ ] Pull on inner wire while operating twist unit
soap. Solvents may degrade plastic parts. back and forth to check that cable moves
8. [ ] Lubricate shifter-housing barrel, spring, and twist unit clicks in detents.
spring cavity, cable groove on way to
adjusting barrel, and detents in twist
Hatchless-type shifter wire replacement
18. [ ] Operate shifter to release all tension from
unit with Grip Shift Jonnisnot grease or
derailleur wire, then disconnect wire from
petroleum jelly only.
front or rear derailleur and remove all
NOTE: If inner-wire head is in twist unit, skip to
derailleur-cable housings that wire passes
step 12.
through.
Inserting inner wire in fixed-head shifter 19. [ ] Loosen shifter-mounting bolt, slide shifter
NOTE: If wire is already installed, skip to step 14. exactly 5mm inward (move brake lever first
9. [ ] Feed wire end into socket on inward face of if room will be needed), then secure shifter-
shifter housing and seat head fully. mounting bolt.
20. [ ] Slide twister back toward fixed grip, then
find inner-wire head or hex-socket screw
in portion of twister that has just been
exposed. Remove hex-socket screw, if any.
21. [ ] Push inner-wire into adjusting barrel until
3
1 inner wire head pushes out of twister, then
pull on wire head to remove wire fully.
22. [ ] Insert new wire where old wire came out
until wire end comes out of adjusting barrel.
Pull wire fully through adjusting barrel, then
2 install hex-socket screw (if any) just until
screw seats inner-wire head fully (do not
torque screw).
30.12 To install the inner wire: 1) Wrap the wire once 23. [ ] Push twister back into shifter body, loosen
around the shifter-housing barrel; 2) feed the wire onto shifter-mounting bolt, slide assembly back
the ramp and into the groove around the twist unit; 3) to original location, and then secure shifter
push the twist unit into the shifter housing. mounting bolt to 17in-lbs (6lbs@3").
24. [ ] Restore brake-lever position and security if
10. [ ] Wrap wire one time around shifter-housing
brake lever was moved.
barrel and then feed into adjusting barrel,
25. [ ] Use appropriate procedures in chapters 31
pulling so that loop ends up slightly smaller
and 32 or 33 to reinstall cable system to
than diameter of enclosure.
derailleur.
30 – 9
Hatch-type shifter wire replacement 3. [ ] Pull cable-adjusting barrel out of derailleur-

control cover.
26. [ ] Operate shifter to release all tension from
derailleur wire, then disconnect wire from 4. [ ] Remove both bolts in bottom of derailleur-
front or rear derailleur and remove all control cover.
derailleur-cable housings that wire passes 5. [ ] While holding bottom cover up against han-
through. dlebar, pull cover off top of derailleur control.
27. [ ] Find hatch on top of fixed portion of shifter 6. [ ] Pull lock button up out of back side of lower
assembly, then slide hatch cover off. cover.
28. [ ] Look into hatch to find inner-wire head 7. [ ] Pull J-ring off of top of inward end of twister.
or hex-socket screw. Remove hex-socket 8. [ ] Pull inner-wire guide out of front side of
screw, if any. lower cover.
29. [ ] Push inner wire into adjusting barrel until 9. [ ] Drop lower cover off of handlebar and slide
inner-wire head pushes out of twister, then cover off end of inner wire.
pull on wire head to remove wire fully. 10. [ ] If cleaning parts, remove grip and twister
30. [ ] Insert new wire where old wire came out from handlebar.
until wire end comes out of adjusting barrel. 11. [ ] Clean all parts, if desired.
Pull wire fully through adjusting barrel, then 12. [ ] Grease inside of twister and both sides of
install hex-socket screw (if any) just until J-ring.
screw seats inner-wire head fully (do not 13. [ ] Install twister and grip on bar, if previously
torque screw). removed.
31. [ ] Install hatch cover. 14. [ ] Insert inner wire into hole on twister.
32. [ ] Use appropriate procedures in chapters 31 15. [ ] Insert inner wire into back side of adjusting-
and 32 or 33 to reinstall cable system to barrel hole in lower cover.
derailleur. 16. [ ] Slide lower cover up inner wire and put
lower cover on bottom side of handlebar so
that lip on inner edge engages groove in bot-
SACHS POWER GRIP tom side of twister.
17. [ ] Holding lower cover up against bottom of
AND POWER GRIP PRO handlebar, place lock button in back face of
lower cover with tab going down into cover.
Installation 18. [ ] Place J-ring over inward end of twister
1. [ ] Install brake lever on handlebar loosely.
so that pawl on inside surface of J-ring
2. [ ] Slide shifter onto handlebar and leave loose.
engages top-most detent in twister.
3. [ ] If shifter has separate grip, slide both 7/8"
19. [ ] Rotating twister and deflecting end of J-ring
I.D. washers onto handlebar and install sta-
as necessary, seat end of J-ring in slot in
tionary grip fully, then slide shifter out gen-
lower cover.
tly against washers.
20. [ ] Install inner-wire guide in lower cover
4. [ ] If shifter includes full grip, slide shifter fully
so that small end goes in back side of
on bar.
adjusting-barrel hole and top end catches
5. [ ] Position and secure brake lever.
under shoulder on twister where inner wire
6. [ ] Rotate shifter until adjusting barrel is just
first appears.
below brake-lever body.
21. [ ] Place upper cover over mechanism.
7. [ ] Secure shifter bolts on bottom side of hous-
22. [ ] Insert bolts in lower cover and gently snug.
ing to 35in-lbs.
23. [ ] Slide adjusting-barrel assembly over cable
Inner-wire replacement and service and insert nut on adjusting barrel into hole in
Before performing the following procedure, confirm lower cover.
that the model being dealt with is one this procedure cov- 24. [ ] Position and secure shifter as described in
previous section, Installation.
ers. The most current models do not require any disassem-
bly for wire removal. Simply detach the inner wire from
the derailleur and attempt to push it out of the shifter.
If this works, do not use the following procedure for
inner-wire replacement.
1. [ ] Leave shifter on handlebar during disassembly.
2. [ ] Shift to release all cable tension, detach
inner wire from derailleur, and remove all
cable housings.
30 – 10
INTEGRATED SHIFT/ 3. [ ] Compress brake lever to handlebar to reveal

wire head in socket in outward side of head
BRAKE LEVERS of brake/shift lever.

4. [ ] Push wire into housing stop on inward side
of lever, then pull wire fully out by its head.
INSTALLATION NOTE: Use Flight Deck step variations if lever is

Flight Deck compatible, regardless of whether
1. [ ] Pull out on rubber cover on outward side Flight Deck computer is installed or not!
of shift/brake lever to reveal head of lever- 5. [ ] Flight Deck only: Pull bottom edge of rubber
mounting bolt. Loosen bolt until almost out lever-body cover up to reveal Flight Deck
of nut in mounting strap. cover or Flight Deck sending unit on inward
2. [ ] Lubricate threads of nut in mounting strap. face of body.
3. [ ] Slide lever onto bottom of handlebar. If lever 6. [ ] Flight Deck only: Use #0 Phillips screwdriver
is correct for this side of bike, housing stop to remove screws that retain cover or send-
will point inward. ing unit.
4. [ ] Snug mounting bolt so that lever can just be 7. [ ] Flight Deck only: Pull cover or sending unit
moved up and down. off lever body, then detach ribbon wire from
5. [ ] Move lever up or down so that bottom tip sending unit (if any).
of lever is .5" above or below line extended 8. [ ] Flight Deck only: Separate black plastic
forward from bottom of bar. ribbon-wire mount from its seat, then care-
6. [ ] Rotate lever so that it points straight forward. fully pull ribbon wire just enough to elimi-
7. [ ] Secure lever-mounting bolt/nut to 85in-lbs nate folds.
(Campagnolo) or 55–70in-lbs (Shimano). 9. [ ] Remove entire brake lever from handlebar.
SHIMANO STI SERVICE

Terminology
Brake-lever housing: The stationary body of the
lever that attaches to the handlebar.
Brake/shift lever: The primary lever that is pulled
back for braking and pushed inward to pull the derail- 3. Pull
leur inner wire. lever out
Chrome adapter: A large piece of chromed metal 1. Remove set screw
that connects the shifter unit to the brake-lever housing.
2. Remove lever pivot
Housing-stop/front-cover: The cover in front of
the head of the brake/shift lever.The housing-stop por-
tion is the protrusion that points inward and has a socket
into which the cable housing inserts.
Lever-pivot stud: A small axle that the shifter unit
pivots on when pulling the brake/shift lever backward to
operate the brake.
Release lever: The secondary lever that is pushed
inward to release the derailleur inner wire.
30.13 To remove the shifter unit: (1) Loosen the set
Shifter unit: The entire lever assembly that pulls back screw; (2) push out the lever pivot; (3) then pull the
to the handlebar to operate the brake or pushes to the shifter unit out of the lever body.
center of the bike to operate the gears. 10. [ ] Remove brake-lever-stud set screw using
Shifter-unit removal 2mm hex key.
1. [ ] While pedaling, operate release lever until 11. [ ] Operate brake lever to relieve pressure from
chain reaches last gear, then detach inner brake-lever return spring and push brake-lever
wire from derailleur. pivot stud inward using 4mm hex key or sim-
2. [ ] Remove cable housings and pull wire from ilar tool. Note orientation of stud; recessed
all guides and stops on frame. portion of stud is on inward side of lever.
30 – 11
12. [ ] Carefully remove lever assembly from lever plate, and the 7700 series models have a shield-shaped
housing. NOTE: Watch for lever bushings name plate. In the following steps, use the 7400 only
and lever-return spring that may fall out, and or 7700 only variations, based on which shape of name
work ribbon wire (if any) carefully out of plate has been observed.
lever body. 7. [ ] 7400 only: Use thin screwdriver to pry off
Dura-Ace models: lever-unit service round name plate, which is retained by rub-
See figure 30.14 for an illustration of steps #1–5. bery glue.
NOTE: Perform shifter-unit removal before this pro- 7700 only: Use #0 Phillips screwdriver to
cedure. remove screw from top edge of name plate,
1. [ ] Gently pry cable-anchor pivot upward using then remove name plate.
small-tipped screwdriver. (Note orientation 8. [ ] Remove bolt and washer that were hidden
of bushings and place on bundle.) behind name plate.
2. [ ] Remove retaining nut at back of shift lever 9. [ ] Carefully pull face cover (part with housing
by turning TL-ST01 with 5mm hex key. stop) off of assembly, watching for springs,
(Hold tool square to nut and apply force bushings, and seals that are behind cover.
toward nut while turning counterclockwise.) 10. [ ] 7700 only: Holding cone stationary with one
3. [ ] Remove lock washer that was behind nut. wrench, break loose locknut, then remove
4. [ ] Remove chrome adapter and plastic dust locknut, bearing cone, and bearing retainer.
cover together from lever assembly. Note: 11. [ ] Carefully clean and flush unit in solvent, tak-
Spring is engaged on dust cover. Leave ing care not to disturb internal parts.
spring on cover. 12. [ ] Using care, dry with compressed air.
5. [ ] Remove small metal washer from splined 13. [ ] Lubricate pivot points with oil or light grease.
stud. 14. [ ] Install release plate (flat-side out) onto
6. [ ] Noting engagement of release lever to splined stud, engaging tab on release lever
release plate, remove release plate from to notch in release plate.
splined stud. 15. [ ] Install small metal washer over splined stud.
16. [ ] Install chrome adapter (includes plastic dust
Cable-anchor pivot cover and spring) over splined stud.
Shimano TL-ST01
17. [ ] Install lock washer over splined stud.
1 18. [ ] Apply Loctite 242 inside nut, then install
2 and secure nut to 50in-lbs.
19. [ ] 7700 only: Carefully grasp chrome adapter in
soft jaws of vise so front of lever is facing up.
Retaining nut 20. [ ] 7700 only: Install ball retainer (lightly
Chrome adapter greased) over stud on face of lever assem-
bly, then thread cone onto stud until it just
contacts ball retainer.
Plastic cover 21. [ ] 7700 only: Install locknut onto stud and
against cone. Use one wrench to hold cone
and another to secure locknut, then check
shift lever for free play (fore/aft slop in lever
pivot) or binding. Adjust cone and locknut until
free play and binding are minimized.
22. [ ] Lightly grease spring and engage to hole in
face of lever.
23. [ ] 7400 only: Install seal ring to back face of
lever cover.
7700 only: Install lever-cover bushing to stud.
30.14 To disassemble Dura-Ace shifter unit: 24. [ ] Making sure that leg sticking out of spring
(1) Remove cable-anchor pivot; (2) remove retaining nut installs into hole in back of lever cover, install
with Shimano TL-ST01 tool; (3) then pull lock washer, lever cover.
chrome adapter, and plastic cover off of brake/shift unit. 25. [ ] Treat lever-cover bolt threads with Loctite
Dura-Ace 7400 series and 7700 series models have 242, then install lockwasher and bolt into face
slightly different assemblies on the front of the lever. of lever cover.
Removing the assembly on the front improves access
for cleaning. The 7400 series models have a round name
30 – 12
26. [ ] 7400 only: Clean mating surfaces where 3. [ ] Pull housing-stop/front-cover off. (Note ori-
name plate attaches and back of name plate entation of seal and spring behind cover.)
of all contaminants and old glue, then pre- 4. [ ] Looking at back side of lever assembly,
pare both surfaces with a light coating of move return lever to side to expose release-
contact cement. Allow cement to dry before lever fixing screw, and remove screw with
attaching name plate. #2 Phillips screwdriver.
7700 only: Install name plate and name-plate 5. [ ] Separate release lever and brake/shift lever
retaining screw. to expose internal mechanisms.
27. [ ] Remove assembly from vise. 6. [ ] Carefully clean and flush unit in solvent, tak-
28. [ ] Lubricate and install bushings onto cable- ing care not to disturb internal parts.
anchor pivot. 7. [ ] Using care, dry with compressed air.
29. [ ] Non-Flight Deck only: Press cable-anchor 8. [ ] Lubricate pivot points with oil or light grease.
pivot downward into slots in chrome 9. [ ] Apply Loctite 222 to thread of shift-unit fix-
adapter. ing screw.
Flight Deck only: Arrange ribbon wire 10. [ ] Place cleaned and lubricated mechanism (or
between plates of chrome adapter, then new mechanism) back inside brake/shift lever.
press cable-anchor pivot downward into Make sure mechanism is fully seated inside.
slots in chrome adapter (wire must end up 11. [ ] Move release lever to expose Phillips screw
trapped behind cable anchor pivot). and secure screw to 12–18in-lbs.
12. [ ] Apply Loctite 242 or 222 to threads of fix-
Non-Dura-Ace 7/8-speed models: levering bolt that holds on housing-stop/front-
unit service cover.
This procedure covers lever-unit service of Ultegra, 13. [ ] Seat seal ring in groove in face of brake/shift
105, RSX, and RX100 STI levers that have 7-speed or lever.
8-speed capacity in the right-side lever. 14. [ ] Engage end of large coil spring into slot in
See figure 30.15 for steps #2–5. back face of housing-stop/front-cover (only
NOTE: Perform shifter-unit removal before this pro- one end may allow spring to fit easily into
cedure. recess).
15. [ ] Place housing-stop/front-cover over brake/shift
lever so that end of spring in cover inserts into
small hole in face of brake/shift lever.
16. [ ] Rotate cover approximately 90° in direction
that housing stop points to, until square hole
in cover lines up with flats on stud, then
press cover onto stud.
1. Remove Cover 3. Loosen 17. [ ] Treat cover-fixing-bolt threads with Loctite
fixing bolt Spring Phillips 222 and install lock washer and bolt to
Bushing screw 50in-lbs.
Brake/shift lever 18. [ ] Ultegra models, affix name plate to lever
front with adhesive.
Release lever
Non-Dura-Ace 9-speed models: lever-
2. Deflect unit service
lever The amount of disassembly that can be done with
these lever units makes any level of service other than pod
replacement unfeasible. If rinsed in solvent, it may be dif-
ficult or impossible to restore lubrication to critical points.
30.15 To disassemble non-Dura-Ace lever unit: (1) Electrical contacts for Flight Deck computer systems may
Remove fixing bolt; (2) deflect release lever to side; cease to function after immersion in solvent. NOTE: Do
(3) loosen the Phillips screw until the release lever and not perform following service unless shift mechanism
brake/shift lever will separate.
is nonfunctional and replacement has become the only
1. [ ] Ultegra models only, pry name plate off other possible solution!
front of lever. NOTE: Perform shifter-unit removal before this pro-
2. [ ] Remove fixing bolt and lock washer from cedure.
front of lever.
30 – 13
This procedure covers lever-unit service of Ultegra, 13. [ ] Flight Deck only: Install cover or sending unit
105, and Tiagra STI levers that have 9-speed capacity in and retain with Phillips screw, then pull rub-
the right-side lever. ber lever-body cover back down into place.
1. [ ] Ultegra/105 only: Insert thin screwdriver under
top edge of name plate to pry name plate up
Inner-wire installation
1. [ ] Press release lever multiple times (3 on left
and out from front of lever, then remove Phil- side or 8 on right side) to make sure lever is
lips screw to remove name-plate mount. fully released.
Tiagra only: Remove bolt and lockwasher from 2. [ ] Compress brake lever so that head of lever
front of name plate, then remove name plate. moves out of brake lever housing. NOTE:
NOTE: Further disassembly is not supported by the Inspect in hole where cable is installed
manufacturer and is strongly discouraged by the for socket of inner-wire head. If socket is
manufacturer and this manual! not seen, lever has not been released fully
2. [ ] Carefully clean and flush unit in solvent, tak- and cable will jam inside mechanism when
ing care not to disturb internal parts. installed!
3. [ ] Using care, dry with compressed air. 3. [ ] Insert inner wire into socket on outward side
4. [ ] Lubricate pivot points with oil or light grease. of head of lever unit.
5. [ ] Reinstall name-plate assembly. 4. [ ] Pull inner wire through until head seats into
Shifter-unit installation socket in shifter drum.
1. [ ] Flight Deck only: Insert rectangular ribbon- 5. [ ] Pulling firmly on inner wire, push brake/shift
wire mount into top end of lever body and lever inward and then push release lever
through rectangular hole down inside lever inward to test whether wire moves toward
body (fit is tight—use gentle persuasion). and away from shifter as levers are operated.
Then pull ribbon wire mount just until it is NOTE: If test is failed, inner wire is installed
fully exposed on outside face of lever body. wrong and must be removed!
2. [ ] Lubricate brake-lever bushings and install in
chrome adapter. NOTE: Long bushing installs
in outward side of chrome adapter, opposite CAMPAGNOLO ERGOPOWER
housing stop.
3. [ ] Place spring over longer bushing, with WIRE AND LEVER REMOVAL
90°-bend end engaged into small hole in 1. [ ] Operate release lever to shift derailleur into
chrome adapter. most-released position and disconnect inner
4. [ ] Hold shift unit horizontally, with housing wire from derailleur.
stop facing up. 2. [ ] Disconnect brake inner wire from brake
5. [ ] Place TL-ST02 (or 3/32" tension/roll pin) caliper.
over long end of spring. 3. [ ] Un-tape handlebars and remove all cable
6. [ ] Guide brake-lever housing onto shift unit and housings from inner wires.
align lever-pivot-stud holes. This process 4. [ ] Remove rubber cover from lever.
may be awkward. 5. [ ] Compress brake lever, push brake inner-wire
7. [ ] Insert 5/32" or 3/16" drift from below through head out of brake lever, then pull brake inner
lever pivot holes to retain lever to lever body. wire fully out.
8. [ ] Insert lever-pivot stud from above, with end 6. [ ] Push derailleur inner wire so head comes out
containing recess pointing up (recess must line bottom of brake-lever body and pull derail-
up with lever-pivot-stud set screw). leur inner wire fully out.
9. [ ] Secure set screw. 7. [ ] Loosen hex-socket nut on outward side of
10. [ ] Pull TL-ST02 off of spring. top of lever body, then pull whole lever off
11. [ ] Flight Deck only: With brake lever fully com- of handlebar.
pressed, pull excess ribbon wire through hole.
12. [ ] Flight Deck only: Seat ribbon-wire mount
into corresponding recess, then fold up
CAMPAGNOLO 8-SPEED
excess ribbon wire to fit inside wire well. ERGOPOWER SERVICE
NOTE: End of ribbon-wire mount that ribbon The following procedure can be performed without
wire goes through should point to top side any special tools, but one of the steps is much easier if
of brake-lever body, ribbon-wire contacts
a special tool is fabricated for this mechanism. Cut a
should be facing out, and main section of
ribbon wire should be folded back under
V-shaped notch in the tip of a standard 1/8" flat screw-
ribbon-wire mount. driver with a file or cut-off wheel. The tool is also useful
for 9/10-speed Ergopower service.
30 – 14
Disassembling and cleaning the shift 8. [ ] Tip release lever to disengage from spring,
then rotate release lever approximately 90°
mechanism to pull it out of brake-lever body.
1. [ ] Push release lever (the smaller inward lever) 9. [ ] Lift up gear ring and pull partially out of
repeatedly to make sure mechanism is fully brake-lever body until long end of spring
relaxed. NOTE: Do not operate lever again clears spring hole in brake-lever body.
until work is completed! 10. [ ] Rotate gear ring approximately 180° and tip
NOTE: Use figure 30.16 as guide for steps 1–7. to pull out of lever body.
2. [ ] For levers with plastic bodies only, remove 11. [ ] Note any washers under gear ring, then
cover on bottom of lever body to expose remove washers.
shift mechanism. 12. [ ] Lift prong on coil spring and gently pull
spring out of gear ring.
2. Remove cover
(plastic-body levers, only)
Release lever
3. Remove
bolt Spring
Gear ring
1. Install 4mm Allen wrench,

then secure wrench in vise
Vise
30.16 To remove the release-lever retaining bolt: (1)

Install a 4mm hex key into bolt head in brake-lever body;
(2) remove cover from plastic-body levers only; (3) then
remove bolt.
30.17 Remove release lever, spring, then gear ring.
13. [ ] Use small screwdriver or seal pick to gently
3. [ ] Pivot brake lever and insert 4mm L-shaped
encourage spring ring out of lever body.
hex key into 4mm hex-socket fitting in
14. [ ] Use needle-nose pliers to remove two 6/9
bottom of cavity that was revealed by piv-
(indexing) springs from inside of spring ring
oting brake lever.
(see figure 30.18, page 30-16).
4. [ ] Secure hex key in soft jaws in vice.
15. [ ] Further disassembly is possible but not usu-
5. [ ] Insert another 4mm hex key into bolt in
ally required. Cleaning of unit is possible
base side of brake-lever body. For right-hand
while still assembled. NOTE: To disassemble
lever, unthread bolt by turning clockwise.
further, remove brake lever to better access
For left-hand lever, unthread bolt counter-
internal parts. Remove snap-ring from back
clockwise. Pulling up (from vise) on release
of body to fully disassemble.
lever will tip it so it does not apply side-load
16. [ ] Using care not to displace any internal parts,
to bolt while bolt is being turned.
clean parts using mild solvent.
6. [ ] Pull up on release lever and use needle-nose
17. [ ] Carefully dry with compressed air.
pliers to remove bolt.
7. [ ] Remove any shims under head of bolt. Note
number of shims and bundle them together.
NOTE: Use figure 30.17 as guide for steps 8–10.
30 – 15
11. [ ] Rotate gear ring so that flats in hole line up
Spring ring (plastic-body
with flats on stud below, then drop gear ring
levers only) onto stud below.
12. [ ] With recess in release-lever disc facing
Indexing springs (6/9 springs) up and end of lever pointing toward brake
lever, insert release lever over gear ring
and engage release-lever spring into hole in
release lever.
As an alternative to the previous step, put the release
lever in place without engaging the spring, with the big hole
in the disc lined up with the hole in the gear ring and the
release lever positioned where it stops against the lever body.
Modify a very small slotted screwdriver by putting a notch
in its tip, and use this to guide the vertical end of the spring
into the small hole in the disc of the release lever.
13. [ ] Pivot release lever around end of spring until
hole in release lever is centered over hole in
gear ring. Expect this to be awkward since
the spring will provide resistance.
14. [ ] Reinstall any shims on retaining bolt. Apply
Loctite 242 to threads of bolts.
15. [ ] Maintaining upward pressure on the end of
30.18 Removing the 6/9 (indexing) springs. the release lever to keep the spring down
in the gear ring, install and secure retain-
Assembling the shift mechanism ing bolt to 50in-lbs. NOTE: Right-hand lever
1. [ ] Grease new 6/9 springs and grease inside secures by turning bolt counterclockwise.
spring ring, as well as ring seat in lever body. Left-hand lever hand secures clockwise.
2. [ ] With flatter side of spring ring facing
down, install 6/9 springs into small holes
so that curves of springs match curve of CAMPAGNOLO 9/10-SPEED
mounting ring.
3. [ ] Install spring ring into body, seating it on
ERGOPOWER SERVICE
These levers can be fully disassembled for purposes
two studs.
5. [ ] Front levers have a split washer under gear of cleaning and lubrication, and while disassembled,
ring. Grease washer and place on top of right-side levers can be converted between 9-speed and
spring-mounting ring (align split with hole in 10-speed configurations. The following service is based on
lever body for release-lever spring). 1998–2003 Record/Chorus and 1999 Athena Ergopower
6. [ ] Grease outside and inside of gear ring, then shifters. All Avanti, Centaur, Daytona, Mirage, and Veloce
grease return spring. Ergopower shifters (1998–2003), plus the 1998 Athena
7. [ ] Place release-lever spring into gear ring so Ergopower shifters, are similar to the models covered in
that long end of spring sticks out of slot in this section but have slightly different parts. The procedure
gear ring. contains notations for these different parts that are based
8. [ ] For aluminum body levers only, align gear
on Campagnolo drawings, not the author’s experience.
ring so that vertical-spring end enters big
slot in lever body first, then slide gear ring The 2002–2003 Xenon Ergopower shifters are completely
into lever body. different and are not covered in this manual.
9. [ ] Rotate gear ring so that horizontal end of Unfortunately, drawings for this procedure cannot be
spring points at spring hole in lever body. provided at this time. The parts manuals available from
10. [ ] Use tip of small screwdriver to deflect hor- Campagnolo would be very useful to have on hand.
izontal end of spring to line up with hole,
then push gear ring in all the way. NOTE: Tool requirements
6/9 springs can displace below gear ring and The following procedure is nearly impossible to per-
interfere. If gear-ring installation is difficult, form without a custom-fabricated tool. Cut a V-shaped
remove gear ring and make sure 6/9 springs notch in the tip of a standard 1/8" flat screwdriver with a
are against wall of mounting ring. file or cut-off wheel. The tool is also useful for 7/8-speed
30 – 16
Ergopower service. In the following procedure, this custom- Spring ring: A metal ring in the shift mechanism that
made tool is called a spring tool. has two protrusions 180º apart on one face. On left-side
shift levers, the other face is flat. On right-side shift levers,
Terminology there is a long post extending out from the face of the
Brake-lever body: The main body of the Ergopower
ring opposite the two protrusions.
mechanism to which all the levers attach.
Brake lever: The lever that is pulled toward the Servicing the shift mechanism
handlebar to apply the brakes. NOTE: It is preferable, but not required, to remove
Brake-lever pivot stud: The shaft on which the rubber cover from brake-lever body. Care must
brake lever pivots. be taken during removal and installation to pre-
Cartridge bearing: A ball-bearing assembly that can- vent tearing rubber.
1. [ ] Remove plastic cover on bottom of lever
not be disassembled, consisting of one cylinder within
body to expose shift mechanism (for exam-
another, with ball bearings between the two cylinders. ple of cover, see figure 30.16, page 30-15).
Cross-slot stud: The hollow cylinder inside the shift 2. [ ] Pivot brake lever and insert 5mm L-shaped
mechanism that has two slots in one end that cross each hex key into 5mm hex-socket fitting in
other. The other end has a single wide slot. bottom of cavity that was revealed by piv-
Gear ring: The hollow cylinder inside the shift oting brake lever.
mechanism that has two rings with teeth around the 3. [ ] Right lever: Secure hex key in vice so bottom
perimeter of each ring. of assembly faces up, then rotate assembly
6/9 springs: These are shaped like elongated num- fully counterclockwise around hex key.
bers 6 or 9 on their sides but with less curve to the legs. Left lever: Secure hex key in vice so bottom
of assembly faces up, then rotate assembly
There are two 6/9 springs in the shift mechanism.
fully clockwise around hex key.
Pivot plate: A flat plate with a hole in the center through 4. [ ] Use spring tool to unhook end of spiral
which a pivot stud is inserted. There are pivot plates on the spring and allow spring to unwind.
ends of the brake lever, the shift lever, and the return lever. 5. [ ] Insert a 3mm hex key into bolt in base side
Release lever: The short lever on the inside face of brake-lever body and unthread bolt.
of the brake-lever body that is pressed by the thumb to NOTE: From this point on, many small parts are
release tension from the derailleur cable to shift the chain removed that will probably be unfamiliar.
from a larger-size cog or chainring to a smaller-size cog Transfer any parts with holes directly from
or chainring. assembly to a bundling tie, maintaining origi-
Release-lever return spring: A coil spring inside the nal order and orientation. Use one tie for parts
removed from bottom end of brake-lever body
shift mechanism that causes the release lever to move back
and another tie for parts removed from top end
up after the thumb is no longer pressing it down. This of brake-lever body. Make notes and drawings
spring is black, has one long leg that extends radially from of parts that won’t attach to bundling ties.
the outside of the spring coil, and has one short leg that 6. [ ] Remove spring cover (large, thin washer).
extends up from the face of the spring coil. 7. [ ] Remove spiral spring.
Shift lever: The secondary lever immediately behind 8. [ ] Remove cross-slot stud, allowing release
the brake lever that is pushed inward to increase tension on lever to move on its own.
the derailleur cable to shift the chain from a smaller-size 9. [ ] Rotate release lever out side of brake-lever
cog or chainring to a larger-size cog or chainring. body, then lift release lever off of spring.
Shift-lever pivot stud: The long cylinder inside the 10. [ ] Remove 12mm washer from top face of
release-lever plate (if not there, check under
shift mechanism that has a hex socket in one end and has
head of cross-slot stud).
external flats and internal threads at the other end. 11. [ ] Gently pull release-lever return spring out of
Shift-lever return spring: A coil spring located on cup in top face of gear ring that was below
top of the shift-lever pivot plates. One end of this silver release lever.
spring protrudes radially out from the coil and is straight 12. [ ] Remove gear ring and check for 12.5mm
and long. The other end extends out from the coil and is washer stuck to bottom of gear lever or
a short hook shape. left on stud. NOTE: Right lever only, watch
Spiral spring: The largest spring in the shift mecha- carefully for large washer that may stick to
nism. It is flat and spirals around itself in ever-increasing bottom of gear ring or may remain on top
circles. The outer end is hook shaped, and the inner end of spring ring, which is next ring under-
neath gear ring.
is a short bend that points to the center of the spiral.
30 – 17
13. [ ] Right lever: Remove washer from bottom
face of gear ring or top face or spring ring
Assembling the shift mechanism
1. [ ] Coat all internal parts with light grease and
(spring ring is still in brake-lever body). pack bearing cartridges with light grease.
14. [ ] Use small screwdriver or seal pick to gently Treat threads inside shift-lever pivot stud
encourage spring ring out of lever body. with 1–2 drops of Loctite 242.
15. [ ] Use needle-nose pliers to remove 6/9 springs 2. [ ] Press bearing into mount in bottom of cavity
from bottom side of spring ring (see figure in top end of brake-lever body. NOTE: Mod-
30.18, page 30-16). els without cartridge bearings always have
16. [ ] Remove assembly from hex key, then sup- 1 washer installed at this same location. It
port side of brake-lever body on top of vise so may be more convenient to install washer
brake-lever pivot stud is over gap in vise jaws. just before step 6.
Then use small drift to drive out pivot stud. 3. [ ] Install small gear between shift-lever pivot
Remove brake lever from brake-lever body. plates so that L, 9, or 10 code faces outer
17. [ ] Right lever: Look into cavity from which shift-lever pivot plate.
brake lever was removed and identify shift- 4. [ ] Install 14mm washer on face of outer pivot
lever return spring. Orient assembly so shift plate of shift-lever assembly, then install
lever is at 6:00 position and observe spring flatted end of shift-lever pivot stud through
leg at 2:00 position. washer, pivot plates, and gear. Rotate gear
Left lever: Look into cavity from which brake as necessary to permit head of pivot stud to
lever was removed and identify shift-lever seat completely against pivot plate.
return spring. Orient assembly so shift lever 5. [ ] Right lever: Insert hooked end of smallest
is at 6:00 position and observe spring leg at coil spring into hole near head of pivot stud.
10:00 position. When spring is installed correctly and shift
18. [ ] Right lever: Use spring tool to deflect spring lever assembly is oriented so shift lever is
coil until leg at 2:00 clears edge of slot in at 6:00 position, straight leg of spring will
brake-lever body (spring must unwind). point to 2:00.
Left lever: Use spring tool to deflect spring Left lever: Insert hooked end of smallest
coil until leg at 10:00 clears edge of slot in coil spring into hole near head of pivot stud.
brake-lever body (spring must unwind). When spring is installed correctly and shift
19. [ ] Lift shift-lever assembly out of brake-lever lever assembly is oriented so shift lever is
body, then unhook shift-lever return spring at 6:00 position, straight leg of spring will
from hole in shift-lever assembly, noting point to 10:00.
direction hook goes for later installation. 6. [ ] Insert shift-lever assembly into cavity in top
20. [ ] Remove shift-lever pivot stud from pivot end of brake lever so pivot stud goes though
plates in shift-lever assembly, then remove bearing.
14mm washer from under head of pivot stud 7. [ ] Install spacer and cartridge bearing into cav-
or from face of shift-lever pivot plate. ity in bottom end of brake-lever body so
21. [ ] Remove gear from between shift-lever pivot spacer ends up sandwiched between bear-
plates. ings. NOTE: Models without cartridge bear-
22. [ ] Remove cartridge bearing from bottom of ings always have 1–3 washers (or 1 bushing
cavity at bottom end of brake-lever body. and 1 washer) installed at this same loca-
NOTE: Models without this bearing may tion. It may be more convenient to install
have 1–3 washers or 1 washer and 1 bush- washers (or bushing and washer) just before
ing at this location. Washer(s) from this step 14.
location may have adhered to small end of 8. [ ] Right lever: Grasp straight leg of shift-lever
gear ring that was removed in step 12. return spring with needle-nose pliers and
23. [ ] Push spacer and cartridge bearing out top rotate leg clockwise until it engages slot in
end of lever body. NOTE: Models with no side of brake-lever-body cavity.
cartridge bearing may have washer that Left lever: Grasp straight leg of shift-lever
stuck to back face of shift-lever pivot plates return spring with needle-nose pliers and
or remained in cavity where shift-lever rotate leg counterclockwise until it engages
assembly was removed. slot in side of brake-lever-body cavity.
24. [ ] Clean all metal parts thoroughly with sol- NOTE: This step is awkward and spring
vent, clean plastic parts with soapy water, must be deflected substantially to achieve
then dry all parts thoroughly. desired result!
30 – 18
9. [ ] Install brake lever into brake-lever body, 19. [ ] While pressing down on release-lever pivot
then use plastic mallet to install brake-lever plate, rotate cross-slot stud so groove in lower
pivot stud through holes in brake-lever body end of stud aligns with flats on end of shift-
and brake lever. lever pivot stud (head of cross-slot stud must
10. [ ] Install 5mm hex key into hex socket of shift- seat against release-lever pivot plate).
lever pivot stud, then secure hex key in vise NOTE: Release-lever return spring (underneath
jaws so bottom end of brake-lever body is release lever) will try to push cross-slot stud
facing up. back out until step 24 is completed. Until step
11. [ ] Install 6/9-spring legs into holes in bottom 24 is completed, maintain constant pressure
face of spring ring (face with 2 protrusions). on stud. THIS IS AWKWARD AND DIFFICULT!
NOTE: If correctly installed, curve of each 20. [ ] Right lever: Rotate lever assembly on hex
6/9 spring matches curve on inside perim- key fully clockwise.
eter of spring ring. Left lever: Rotate lever assembly on hex key
12. [ ] Install spring ring into cavity in brake-lever fully counterclockwise.
body (double-protrusion-face first). NOTE: 21. [ ] Right lever: Orient spiral spring so it spirals
Only one rotational position permits spring outward in clockwise direction.
ring to seat fully. Left lever: Orient spiral spring so it spirals
13. [ ] Right lever: Place 25.4mm washer on spring outward in counterclockwise direction.
ring so notch in outer perimeter engages 22. [ ] Right lever: Engage inner leg of spiral
spring-ring post and indentation in washer spring in end of narrow slot of cross-slot
faces out, then install 12.5mm washer over stud that is closest counterclockwise from
shift-lever pivot stud. spring-ring post.
Left lever: Install 12.5mm washer over shift- Left lever: Engage inner leg of spiral spring
lever pivot stud. in end of narrow slot of cross-slot stud that
14. [ ] Install gear ring (small-end first) into cavity in is furthest from release lever.
brake-lever body. NOTE: Brake-lever body and 23. [ ] Place spring cover (large washer that is
gear ring may need to be rotated together to approximately same diameter as spiral spring)
align flats inside of gear ring to flats on end of over spiral spring so protrusions in face of
shift-lever pivot stud. cover engage wide slots in cross-slot stud.
15. [ ] Right lever: Rotate assembly fully clockwise, 24. [ ] Install bolt through cover and spring, then
then install long leg of release-lever return thread bolt in fully and secure to 30–40in-lbs.
spring through slot inside inner perimeter of 25. [ ] Right lever: Use needle-nose pliers to load
gear ring (short leg should be pointing up). hooked end of spiral spring clockwise until
Left lever: Rotate assembly fully counter- it can engage spring-ring post, then guide
clockwise, then install long leg of release- any portion of spring that is on top of spring
lever return spring through slot inside inner cover to be below spring cover.
perimeter of gear ring (short leg should be Left lever: Rotate assembly fully clockwise
pointing up). (working spring over edge of brake-lever
NOTE: Long leg of spring must go in round body when interference is encountered),
hole in brake-lever body that is hidden by use needle-nose pliers to load hooked end
gear ring. If unsure of location of hole, of spiral spring counterclockwise until it
remove gear ring temporarily to find hole. can be engaged to groove in outer face of
16. [ ] Orient release-lever pivot plate cupped-face brake body, and then guide any portion of
up and place lever on top of spring installed spring that is on top of spring cover to be
in last step, with lever going through slot in below spring cover.
inside face of brake-lever body. NOTE: Verti- 26. [ ] Remove assembly from hex key, then push
cal leg of spring is not engaged at this point. release lever repeatedly to confirm mecha-
17. [ ] Install 12mm washer and cross-slot stud nism is fully released. Test-operate shift
through hole in release-lever pivot plate. lever and release mechanism for normal
18. [ ] Right lever: While pressing on stud with function (12 clicks each way for left lever, 8
thumb, use spring tool to rotate vertical leg clicks each way for 9-speed right lever, and
of release-lever spring counterclockwise until 9 clicks each way for 10-speed right lever).
it engages hole in release-lever pivot plate. 27. [ ] Press plastic cover into bottom of brake-
Left lever: While pressing on stud with lever body.
thumb, use spring tool to rotate vertical
leg of release-lever spring clockwise until it
engages hole in release-lever pivot plate.
30 – 19
CAMPAGNOLO ERGOPOWER the down tube. There is usually a small tab brazed to the
top side or bottom side of the down tube that locates
WIRE AND LEVER INSTALLATION the shifters. The strap should be up the tube from the
tab but still touching it. In case there is no tab, locate
Lever installation the shifters so that the ends of the levers come within
1. [ ] Loosen 5mm hex-socket nut on outward
side of top of lever body (under rubber 1–1.5" of the back side of the head tube. Secure the
cover—access through top edge of cover), binder bolt to 24–30in-lbs.
then slide lever assembly onto handlebar.
2. [ ] Position brake lever so tip of lever is even
Braze-on mounted shifters
Braze-on mounted shifters mount to brazed-on fit-
with line extended forward from bottom side
of handlebar drops, then rotate brake-lever tings mounted on both sides of the down tube. They
body so it points straight forward. sometimes have a unitized construction and go on all at
3. [ ] Secure lever-binding bolt to 85in-lbs. once, and they sometimes are several parts that are placed
on the braze-on one at a time.
Derailleur-wire installation If they are a single unit, simply slip them onto
1. [ ] Operate release lever to set derailleur control
the braze-on and tighten the screw or bolt that goes
into most-released position.
2. [ ] Fold up bottom edge of rubber cover at
through the center of the lever drum. The screw
outer side of brake-lever body to locate wire- threads should be treated with Loctite 222, and the
head socket (in toothed gear ring). torque should be 10–15in-lbs.
3. [ ] Insert wire into socket until wire comes out If they are friction (non-indexing) levers, they will
at bottom edge of rubber cover at top side usually consist of several parts. The first part is usually a
of brake-lever body. plate that fixes to the large square at the base of the braze-
4. [ ] Pull on end of wire until wire head seats in on. This plate usually has a stop that stops the forward
socket. motion of the lever. If the plate is on wrong, the lever
5. [ ] Install housing end cap and housing to wire. will not stop parallel to the down tube when pushed all
All models are designed for housing to fol-
the way forward. The next part is usually a thick washer
low outer curve of handlebar from this point.
Some models have option to route housing
with a round hole in the middle. This is followed by the
over top of brake-lever body so housing lever itself. After the lever is another washer that usually
comes out of inner face of brake-lever body has a flatted hole that engages the flats on the end of the
to follow inside curve of handlebar from this braze-on. A cover plate typically follows this, and the last
point. In both cases, housing will be covered part is the mounting/tension screw that holds everything
by handlebar tape. on and adjusts the amount of friction. This screw should
be oiled, not treated with Loctite.
Brake-wire installation If the lever has too much friction and will not oper-
1. [ ] Compress brake lever to expose cable
anchor in top end of brake lever. ate smoothly without loosening the tension screw to the
2. [ ] Feed brake wire through hole in anchor and point that it will not resist the derailleur return spring, try
into hole in lever body. Wire will emerge at lubricating both faces of the lever where it is sandwiched
top edge of brake-lever body, close to inner between the washers.
face of body.
3. [ ] Pull wire until head is seated in cable anchor.
4. [ ] Seat housing (no end cap) in socket in SERVICE
brake-lever body where wire came out. If the lever comes off as a unit, then the only service
is to soak it in solvent, dry with compressed air, and
inject oil. If this does not solve the problem, the lever
must be replaced.
DOWN-TUBE LEVERS Levers that come off in parts when the central screw
is undone can be cleaned thoroughly, dried, then lubricated
and installed. In rare cases, the washers that sandwich the
INSTALLATION lever can be replaced (if worn out).
Clamp-mounted shifters
Clamp-mounted shifters have a strap that wraps
around the down tube, with a binder bolt that pulls the
ends of the strap together located on the bottom side of
30 – 20
BAR-END SHIFTERS SERVICE

Bar-end shifters usually have a unitized construction.
The only service is to soak in solvent, dry, and oil. If
REMOVAL problems continue, replace the shifters.
The shift mechanism usually must be removed from
the mount to access a bolt that secures the mount inside
the handlebar. Turn the bolt clockwise to loosen the mount.
If the bolt will not turn clockwise without stripping the
Allen socket, turn the mount counterclockwise.
STEM SHIFTERS
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION Stem shifters are installed on the vertical shaft of the
The shift unit must be removed from the mount to stem. They should be mounted as close to the headset
install the mount in the end of the handlebar. When install- locknut as possible, unless this position causes the cable
ing, be sure to grease the mounting-bolt threads and the housings to deflect awkwardly around the headset. Lubri-
inside and outside surfaces of the expander that fits inside cate bolt threads and torque bolt to 50in-lbs.
the handlebar. Align so that shifter will point straight down
and torque bolt (counterclockwise) to 50in-lbs.
SERVICE
Stem shifters can be disassembled, cleaned, and oiled.
There are no individual parts available, so non-functional
levers should be replaced as a unit.
DERAILLEUR-CONTROL TROUBLESHOOTING (table 30-1)

Cause Solution
SPECIAL NOTE: All shifting problems can easily be caused by other parts of the drivetrain. Always
check derailleur, shifter, cable, chain, and gear compatibility before assuming the problem is with the
shift-control mechanism. Check for cable-friction problems, derailleur wear, and chain wear, also.
SYMPTOM: Shimano Rapidfire lever will not operate.
Inner wire was installed when lever was not fully Remove inner wire and install when lever is fully
released. released. Remove pod cover if necessary.
Internal mechanisms are dirty. Remove pod and pod cover, soak in solvent, dry,
and oil.
Parts have failed internally. Replace pod after checking for first two causes.
SYMPTOM: Grip Shift does not allow derailleur to align with cog after completing shift.
Inside of Grip Shift needs lubrication. Disassemble Grip Shift, clean, and lubricate.
Grip Shift is worn out internally. After eliminating other possible causes, replace
shifter.
SYMPTOM: Shimano rear derailleur operated by Grip Shift will not shift to outermost cog without hesi-
tation when derailleur adjustments, shifter lubrication, and cable setup are all good.
Some models of Shimano derailleurs had too light A compression spring (a hardware-store item)
a return spring to pull the cable through the Grip can be installed over the derailleur wire (between
Shift, even when everything was set up correctly. the adjusting barrel and the pinch mechanism).
Another solution is to install a Grip Shift Bassworm
to the cable system.
SYMPTOM: Shimano STI integrated shift/brake levers on road bike will not stay in a gear after shift-
ing inward.
Internal part in shifter has failed. Contact Shimano for warranty.
Continued
30 – 21
DERAILLEUR-CONTROL TROUBLESHOOTING
(table 30-1 continued)
Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Friction-type shift lever will not hold its position after completing the shift.
Tension/mounting screw needs to be tightened. Tighten tension/mounting screw.
SYMPTOM: Friction-type shift lever is sticky at loosest tension setting that will hold against derailleur
return spring.
Friction washers need lubrication. Drip oil in crevasses on both faces of lever drum, or
disassemble shifter and lubricate faces directly.
SYMPTOM: Friction-type shift lever will not hold its position after completing the shift, no matter how
much the tension screw is tightened.
Friction washers that sandwich lever are worn out. Replace washers, if parts available.
Slick-plastic friction washers that do not need Disassemble lever, clean washers with alcohol,
lubrication have been oiled. and reinstall.
Tension/mounting screw is not screwing fully into Put washers under head of tension/mounting screw.
braze-on because of interference in hole.
SYMPTOM: Braze-on-mounted down-tube friction lever keeps loosening up after proper friction tension
has been achieved.
Flats in hole in outer friction washer are a loose fit Replace outer friction washer.
to flats on braze-on stud.
If washer is fresh, braze-on flats are undersized or Deform washer to create tighter fit or find shim
worn. stock to jam between washer and braze-on flats.
SYMPTOM: Mounting screw will not start threading into braze-on when installing down-tube shifter on
braze-on.
5 × .8mm mounting screw is being installed in Replace screw with correct size or install shifter
braze-on with more rare 4.5mm thread type. that comes with correct screw.
Threads in braze-on are damaged. Chase thread with correct tap (usually 5× .8mm)
SYMPTOM: Campagnolo/Sachs integrated brake/shift levers are difficult to operate when pressing on
the release lever.
Levers are new and need to break in. Make sure lever is clean and lubricated, and if so,
allow adequate time for break-in.
Levers are dirty internally. Disassemble, clean, and lubricate.
30 – 22
31 – DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS
CABLE TYPES AND COMPATIBILITY 31 – 3
INNER WIRES 31 – 3
INNER-WIRE HEADS 31 – 3
HOUSINGS 31 – 3
SIZING HOUSING LOOPS 31 – 4
MTB-SHIFTER LOOPS 31 – 4
INTEGRATED-LEVER LOOPS 31 – 5
BAR-END-CONTROL LOOPS 31 – 6
STEM-SHIFTER LOOPS 31 – 6
REAR-DERAILLEUR LOOP 31 – 6
FRONT-DERAILLEUR LOOP 31 – 7
INSTALLATION OF THE CABLE SYSTEM 31 – 7
HOUSING-END FINISH 31 – 7
INSTALLING FERRULES 31 – 7
LUBRICATION 31 – 8
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER bends and to connect two points that move in relation
to each other.
This chapter is about setting up and servicing the
Housing liner: A plastic sheath inside the housing
cables that operate the derailleurs. It covers selection of
that is used to reduce friction. These days, it is almost
the inner wire and housing and the sizing and preparation
always fixed permanently in place.
of the housings. Attaching the inner wire to the shifter is
Housing stop: The socket-like fitting on the frame,
covered at various points in the DERAILLEUR CONTROLS
shifter, or derailleur that is the point at which the housing
chapter (page 30-1). Attaching the inner wires to the
stops and the inner wire continues.
derailleurs and adjusting the tension on the inner wires is
Indexing compatible: This term signifies that a
covered in the REAR DERAILLEURS (page 32-1) and FRONT
component is suitable for use with an indexing derailleur
DERAILLEURS (page 33-1) chapters.
system. Most modern derailleurs are indexing. This means
that the shifter moves in distinct increments. When the
shifter is moved from one position to the next, it is sup-
GENERAL INFORMATION posed to be just the right amount to move the derailleur
from one gear to the next. The thickness of an inner wire
determines how much inner wire will move as it wraps
TERMINOLOGY around the shifter drum. The friction and compression
Adjusting barrel: An adjustable housing stop that is in the cable system have to be low and consistent for the
threaded into the derailleur and/or shifter. An adjusting indexing to work. Often SIS compatible is used instead of
barrel is a screw with a socket on the end into which the indexing compatible because SIS is the original designation
housing fits. There is a small hole through which the inner for indexing-derailleur systems made by Shimano.
wire passes all the way. Inner wire: The wire that is attached to the shifter,
Cable: The term cable will be used to refer to the passes through housing on the way to the derailleur,
complete cable system, including the inner wire, hous- and attaches to the derailleur. At times, it may just be
ings, and fittings. The term cable is often used to refer to called the wire.
the inner wire as well. To avoid confusion, this book will Inner-wire head: The drum- or disc-shaped bead at
always use cable to describe the whole system and inner wire the end of the inner wire. It fits in a socket in the derail-
to describe the wire portion of the cable system. leur control.
Cable guide: An inner-wire guide, but the conven- Wound housing: This type of housing, more typi-
tional term will be used here to avoid confusion. It is cally used on brakes, consists of a single coil wound from
usually a plate of plastic with a groove or tunnel that one end of the housing to the other. It is usually covered
guides a bare inner wire around a bend, such as the in a plastic sheath and usually has a liner inside. To identify
bottom of the bottom-bracket shell. it, look at the cut end. It will look like the end of a coil
Compressionless housing: This housing type has spring. If not sure after looking at the end, strip off the
stiff wires embedded in it, running along the housing plastic sheath for a few millimeters at the end. Whether it
length, that reduce compression. To identify this housing, is a single coil (wound) or multi-strand (compressionless),
look at the cut end. Many wire ends will be seen. will become completely clear. Wound housing is not con-
Drawn wire: A type of inner wire that has been sidered suitable for use on indexing derailleur systems.
drawn through a die to change its shape. The process
flattens the individual strands of the inner wire so that
the surface of the inner wire is smoother.
PREREQUISITES
Whenever cables are serviced or installed, derailleur
End cap: See ferrule.
adjustments must be done.
Ferrule: The cap that fits on the end of the housing
to improve fit to the housing stop.
Housing: The outer sheath that covers part of the
inner wire. It is used to guide the inner wire around
31 – 1
INDICATIONS clean it out. It could be abrasive particles embedded in the

inner liner. This hidden dirt is the likely reason that a used
Maintenance cable system that looks fine does not shift as well as it did
Cable systems (particularly housings) just wear out when new. This hidden dirt is a good reason to just routinely
and there may be no visual indication. There may be no replace cable systems when adjusting derailleurs.
overt symptoms, but a cable can operate sluggishly just
because it is old. Cables are relatively inexpensive and are
Handlebar and stem changes
When the shifters are mounted on the handlebars and
vital to derailleur performance. It is not an extravagance to
the handlebar width or stem height and length are changed,
automatically replace the cable system annually, particularly
the loops of housings at the shifters need to be re-sized. If
if adjusting a derailleur.
the shifters are moving further away because of wider bars
Indexing malfunctions or a longer stem, cable replacement is often required.
Problems with the cable can cause an indexing derail-
leur to malfunction. The usual scenario is that a system has
stopped working that formerly worked. When the cable TOOL CHOICES
tension is adjusted so that it does not seem too tight for The only tools required for installation of cables are
the release shifts, it is not tight enough for the opposite appropriate tools for cutting inner wire and housing. Pre-
shifts. Then, if it is adjusted to be tight enough for the ferred tools are in bold. Tools are preferred because of a
shifts when the inner wire is being pulled, it becomes balance among versatility, quality, and economy.
too tight when the cable is being released. This problem CABLE TOOLS (table 31-1)
may have obvious causes such as inner-wire rust, dirt, Tool Fits and considerations
or lack of lubrication or housings with visible external
Felco Cuts inner wires and compressionless
damage. However, it is a fact that housings simply wear C7 Deluxe housing; most durable and precise
out and indexing performance will suffer when the hous-
Jag Cuts inner wires and compression-
ing appears to be in good condition. This problem can
CC-167 less housing
be caused by chain wear and component-compatibility
Park Cuts inner wires and compression-
problems, as well.
CN-10 less housing, includes ferrule crimper
Difficult shifter operation Pedro’s Cuts inner wires and compression-
Particularly on friction-shifting systems, when the 6451250 less housing
lever becomes difficult to operate, and lubricating and Shimano Cuts inner wires and compression-
adjusting the friction tension on the shifter do not solve TL-CT10 less housing, includes ferrule crimper
the problem, it is likely there is a cable problem. VAR 990 Cuts inner wires and compression-
Rusty or damaged inner wire less housing
Inner wires fail because they get rusty, fray, become
kinked, or because the wire sheath tears on a Gore-Tex
cable. Replace all wires with these problems, even when
ABOUT THE REST
the damage does not seem to be in a critical location. OF THIS CHAPTER
The rest of this chapter is divided into several sections.
Damaged and dirty housings The first section is about CABLE TYPES AND COMPATI-
Housings fail because they get kinked or bent and BILITY, which covers the different types of inner wires and
because the plastic outer sheath cracks. Dirt can also get housings used for derailleur systems and compatibility of
inside a housing and substantially increase the friction. the different types with different shifting systems. The next
Housings get kinked or bent because of impact and section is SIZING HOUSING LOOPS, which covers the deter-
overextension, but they also get damaged in the same way mination of the optimum length of housing loops from
because they are mis-sized. It is very common that the stops on the frame to shifters mounted on the bar or stem.
loop of housing at the rear derailleur is too short, resulting The final section is PREPARATION AND INSTALLATION OF
in a bend in the housing where it comes out of the rear- THE CABLE SYSTEM, which covers housing-end finishing,
derailleur adjusting barrel. Kinked and bent housings cable-system lubrication, and routing considerations.
should be replaced, unless the housing is too long and Unlike other chapters in this book, there is no section
the damage is confined to an area that will be cut off. on troubleshooting. This is because cable problems are
Dirt gets inside housings and increases friction. There is covered in the respective derailleur chapters.
no good way to inspect for dirt, and there is no good way to
31 – 2
CABLE TYPES AND or double-twisted inner wire is more supple than the same
thickness of a simple twist. The 1.5mm wire required for
COMPATIBILITY use with Shimano Dura-Ace down-tube indexing shifters
should be the braided or double-twisted type.
INNER WIRES INNER-WIRE HEADS

Inner wires differ by diameter, type of surface, and
type of construction. Barrel heads
The barrel-headed inner wire has always been the
Inner-wire diameter most common and today is almost universal. This type has
Wire diameter is important in regard to indexing
a cylinder-shaped head that is usually slightly longer than
performance and fit in the housing. The typical wire
its diameter. The wire goes into the end of the cylinder.
diameters are 1.2mm and 1.5mm. There have been some
less common sizes, as well. For 1995 only, Shimano used
a 1.1mm-diameter wire. Older Campagnolo equipment
came with a 1.6mm-diameter wire.
All index systems, with the exception of down-tube 31.1 A barrel head on a derailleur inner wire.
Shimano Dura-Ace levers, require 1.2mm-diameter wire.
The compressionless housing used for index systems The most common barrel diameter is approximately
will not fit anything larger than 1.2mm wire. The 1.1mm 4.5mm. Old Simplex and all Campagnolo shifters require
Shimano wire was used in a smaller housing that would not something closer to 4.0mm. It is possible to grind or file
fit the 1.2mm wire. To prevent problems when replacing the wire head to improve fit.
a 1.1mm inner wire, always replace the housing as well. Even some barrel heads that are the correct diameter
When Shimano Dura-Ace indexing down-tube levers are can be a fit problem. Flashing material left over from
used, the wire diameter must be 1.5mm. fabrication and out-of-roundness can cause the barrel to
Non-indexing systems have no requirements for wire jam in the socket in the shifter. Always test-fit the barrel
diameter, other than it must fit in the housing being used. before setting up the cable system all the way.
Inner-wire surface Disc heads

Indexing systems require wires with a smooth surface Some old Schwinn and Huret shifters required a
to reduce cable-system friction. One way to insure that disc-shaped cable head. This type was also used briefly
the wire is smooth enough is to use nothing but original by SunTour in the X-Press levers. The disc type has the
equipment for replacement inner wires. Another alterna- inner wire enter the head at the perimeter of the disc.
tive is to use drawn inner wires, which have the smoothest Disc-types are uniform in size. Inner wires that are sold
surface. Most drawn inner wires will be marketed as such; as universal or double-ended usually have a barrel at one end
however, their appearance should identify them clearly. and a disc at the other end.
Drawn inner wires have a more reflective surface, and the
individual strands are much less obvious. When looking
at drawn inner wire, instead of seeing individual strands it
just looks like there are tiny grooves spiraling around the 31.2 A disc head on a derailleur inner wire.
inner wire. Drawn inner wire also feels much smoother
when pulled between two fingertips.
Non-indexing systems have no requirements for the HOUSINGS
wire surface, but whatever makes a wire smoother will Housing for derailleur systems may be the compres-
improve the feel of any shifting system. sionless variety or the wound variety.
Inner-wire construction Compressionless housing
Most inner wires today are a simple twisted wire. Several Compressionless housings are required for indexing
strands are laid parallel and then twisted together all at once. systems but are optional for friction systems. However,
There is another construction, which might be called braided. they improve performance of a friction system. Housing is
It is not actually braided but has that appearance. It is made compatible with a particular inner wire as long as the wire
by making several very small twisted-wire cables and then inserts comfortably into the housing. In 1995, Shimano
twisting these together to make a larger cable. This braided made compressionless housing that was specifically for use
31 – 3
with a 1.1mm inner wire. The 1.2mm wires are a tight fit
in this housing. To use a 1.2mm inner wire on a bike with
this housing, just replace the housing. All compressionless
housing has a plastic liner inside.
End view Sheath cut away
31.3 Compressionless housing.
Wound housing
Wound housings have a metal strip that is wound
31.5 Normal routing (view from underside of bike), but
like a coil spring. These coils compress under load, which crisscross routing would be more suitable on this bike.
translates into lost motion at the shifter. Lost motion
occurs when the shifter moves, but the derailleur does not Crisscrossed routing
respond. Most wound housing has a plastic liner inside to Crisscrossed routing is used only when normal rout-
reduce friction, but some cheap varieties are exposed metal ing is a problem. Crisscrossed routing cannot be used on
inside. The ones without a liner are not recommended for all frames, even when the normal routing is a problem.
use with any derailleur system, indexing or friction. Any time using crisscrossed routing causes an inner wire
End view Sheath cut away to drag on a frame tube on its way from the housing stop
to the cable guide, it is unacceptable.
31.4 Wound housing.

The Shimano Dura-Ace indexing down-tube levers
that use a 1.5mm inner wire require high-quality wound
and lined housing for the loop at the rear derailleur.
SIZING HOUSING LOOPS

31.6 Crisscrossed routing.
MTB-SHIFTER LOOPS Crisscrossed routing is done by routing the housing
Normal routing loop from the right shifter around the left side of the
In normal routing, the loop from the right shifter goes head tube or stem to the housing stop on the left side of
by the right side of the head tube or stem to a housing the frame. The inner wire is then routed back to the right
stop on the right side of the frame, and then the inner side of the cable guide at the bottom-bracket shell. The
wire stays on the right side of the bike all the way to the left side is the reverse. The inner wires end up crossing
rear derailleur. The left side is the same, except everything each other between the top of the down tube and the
is on the left. On bikes with narrow handlebars (and par- bottom-bracket shell.
ticularly if the stem is short also) the normal routing may
cause the housing to have a dramatic double-bend on its Sizing procedure
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire that
way from the shifter to the housing stop on the frame. If
comes out of derailleur control.
this is the case, consider crisscrossed routing.
31 – 4
2. [ ] Route housing to the housing stop on frame grooves, have the housings spiral 1/4 turn around the bar
that will be used, making sure that loop so they exit the tape on the bottom side of the bar.
does not have to deflect around any existing With any of the routings, the loops of housing from
brake cables. the points they exit the handlebar tape may be very short
3. [ ] Rotate handlebars to limit (180° max.) to
with tight bends. If at all possible, use crisscrossed routing
side that is opposite housing stop on frame
to make the loops longer and the bends less tight. In all
to which loop is being routed.
4. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past the conditions, the ideal length is just long enough to allow
housing stop on the frame (without dam- the handlebars to rotate through their full range of normal
aging housing), making sure housing remains motion without putting the housing under load.
inserted in housing stop on derailleur control.
Shimano STI normal routing
In normal routing, the loop from the right shifter
goes by the right side of the head tube or stem to a
housing stop on the right side of the frame, and then the
inner wire stays on the right side of the bike all the way
to the rear derailleur. The left side is the same, except
everything is on the left.
Shimano STI crisscrossed routing
In crisscrossed routing, the loop from the right shifter
goes by the left side of the head tube or stem to a housing
stop on the left side of the frame, and then the inner wire
crosses to the right side of the bike all the way to the rear
derailleur. The left side is exactly opposite of the right side.
Sizing procedure
1 – Rotate to limit 2 – Pull tight

(180º max.) 3 – Trim here
31.7 Sizing the housing loop from a bar-mounted

derailleur control.
5. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with
closed end of housing stop on frame.
6. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut
housing at mark. 1 – Rotate to limit
(180º max.)
INTEGRATED-LEVER LOOPS 2 – Pull tight

3 – Trim here
Campagnolo Ergopower cable routing 31.8 Sizing the housing loop from a Shimano STI lever.
Campagnolo Ergopower controls have derailleur
housing that exits from the base of the brake-lever bodies 1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire that
and stays under the handlebar tape until the handlebar comes out of derailleur control.
2. [ ] Route housing to housing stop on frame
tape ends near the center of the handlebar. As described
that will be used, making sure that loop
in the DERAILLEUR CONTROLS chapter (page 30-20), there does not have to deflect around any
may be an option to route the housing at the inside bend existing brake cables.
of the bars instead of around the outside of the bend. 3. [ ] Rotate handlebars to limit (180° max.) to
In either case, the housing should follow any hous- side that is opposite housing stop on frame to
ing grooves in the handlebar. If there are no housing which loop is being routed (see figure 31.8).
31 – 5
4. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past the
housing stop on the frame (without dam-
aging housing), making sure housing remains
inserted in housing stop on derailleur control.
housing at mark.
BAR-END-CONTROL LOOPS
Housing loops from bar-end controls on drop-style
handlebars are run under the handlebar tape where the 1 – Rotate to limit
housing leaves the shifter. The housing comes out of (180º max.)
the handlebar tape where the curve of the bar starts up 2 – Pull tight
toward the brake lever.
3 – Trim here
31.10 Sizing the housing loop from the handlebar to

the frame.
MA
X. H
T.
housing at mark.
STEM-SHIFTER LOOPS
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire that
comes out of derailleur control.
2. [ ] Route housing to the housing stop on the
frame that will be used, making sure that
loop does not have to deflect around any
existing brake cables.
31.9 Routing of the housing loop from a bar-end control. side that is opposite housing stop on frame
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire that to which loop is being routed.
comes out of derailleur control. 4. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past the
2. [ ] Temporarily retain housing to handlebar, housing stop on the frame (without dam-
only to point bar begins to curve upward, aging housing), making sure housing remains
with adhesive tape or ties. inserted in housing stop on derailleur control.
3. [ ] Route housing to housing stop on frame 5. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with
that will be used, making sure that loop closed end of housing stop on frame.
does not have to deflect around any 6. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut
existing brake cables. housing at mark.
side that is opposite housing stop on frame
to which loop is being routed. REAR-DERAILLEUR LOOP
5. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past the Sizing the cable-housing loop for the rear derailleur
housing stop on the frame (without dam- is a somewhat subjective process. Consistently factories
aging housing), making sure housing set this loop up too short, resulting in frequent kinking
remains inserted in housing stop on derail- of the housing or housing ferrule where it comes out of
leur control and does not pull out of tape the adjusting barrel. This factory setup leads to mechanics
or tie on handlebar. getting used to seeing too short as normal. Consequently,
when setting the loop length up by the following rules, it
is likely to look too long to an experienced mechanic.
31 – 6
The key to setting the length of the loop to the rear
derailleur is to just focus on the entry of the housing into INSTALLATION OF THE
the adjusting barrel. As the housing loop gets longer and
shorter, the end of the housing in the adjusting barrel will
CABLE SYSTEM
twist up and down and not come straight out of the adjust-
ing barrel. When it is not twisted up or down, the length is HOUSING-END FINISH
correct. The only way to find this point is to simulate the
length of the housing by moving at the stop on the frame Compressionless housing
both ways until the adjusting barrel has been seen to move Compressionless housing should be cut with an
both ways, then set the length so that adjusting barrel is not enclosing style of cable cutter, such as the Felco C7. Care-
being cocked up or down by the housing. ful alignment and stabilization of the tool and housing
insures a relatively square cut. If cutting the housing makes
it out-of-round, a gentle squeeze between the handles of
the tool or pliers will make it round again.
The inner liner often gets closed when the housing
is cut. A push pin or similar sharp object can be used to
open up the liner again.
Parallel
Unlike wound housing, compressionless housing should
never be filed or ground flat on the end!
1 2 Wound housing
3
Wound housing is used much more on brake systems
than it is on derailleurs. Discussion of the proper finish-
ing of wound housings is covered in the BRAKE-CABLE
31.11 Sizing the housing loop at the rear derailleur. SYSTEMS chapter (page 35-8).
1. [ ] Install inner wire into housing piece, but do
not route inner wire through housing stop on
frame.
INSTALLING FERRULES
It is critical to use ferrules anytime they will fit. Fit a fer-
2. [ ] Install a ferrule on one end of housing piece,
rule onto the housing and check if the ferrule will install
then insert that end into adjusting barrel,
with inner wire going into adjusting barrel,
into the housing stop or adjusting barrel. If it fits without
as well. jamming, it must be used.
3. [ ] Hold other end of housing piece adjacent to Ferrules for compressionless housing
housing stop on frame. There are ferrules made for wound housing that will
4. [ ] Position derailleur so parallelogram body is
fit onto compressionless housing, but they are not suit-
roughly parallel to line from axle to center of
bottom bracket or pointing slightly down.
able. Compressionless-housing ferrules (often called SIS-
5. [ ] Move housing back and forth at housing compatible ferrules or end caps) are specially reinforced at
stop at frame and stop at point housing fer- the closed end to resist corruption from the ends of the
rule in adjusting barrel is not twisted up or wires that are part of the compressionless housing. If the
down in adjusting-barrel socket. wrong ferrule is used, the housing wires will force them-
6. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with selves though the hole in the ferrule where the inner wire
closed end of housing stop on frame. comes out. Pre-sized pieces of compressionless housing
7. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut come with appropriate ferrules installed. Most packages
housing at mark. of bulk compressionless housing come with a supply of
suitable ferrules. When purchasing separate ferrules that
FRONT-DERAILLEUR LOOP are suitable for use with compressionless housing, they are
more likely to be described as fitting Shimano SIS housing
Most front derailleurs do not have housing going to
the front derailleur. When they do, try to make the loop a than as fitting compressionless housing. In any case, to
simple curve without any abrupt bends or double bends identify a compressionless-housing-compatible ferrule,
at the points the housing enters a housing stop. look at the hole at the end where the inner wire comes
out. If the material is obviously more than .5mm thick,
the ferrule is compressionless-housing compatible.
31 – 7
Reusing ferrules
Factory ferrules that are on compressionless housing
can be reused when installing new housing if there are no
new compatible ferrules available.
1. [ ] Put old housing in vise about 1/2" from
end of jaws, with end of ferrule sticking up
above vise about 3/4".
2. [ ] Gently grasp housing with needle-nose pliers
just below ferrule.
3. [ ] Lever pliers down against vise to lift ferrule
off end of housing.
4. [ ] Place ferrule(s) on new housing.
5. [ ] Insert old derailleur inner wire through a fer-
rule until inner-wire head is against ferrule.
6. [ ] Use cable fourth-hand tool to draw inner
wire through housing, simultaneously press-
ing both ferrules onto housing.
Crimping ferrules onto housing
Ferrules come from the factory crimped onto the
housing so that they won’t get lost in transit. Once a cable
is installed on a bike, there is no advantage to having the
ferrules crimped on. Crimping is a waste of time and
it complicates reusing ferrules. Crimping on ferrules is
not recommended.
LUBRICATION
Any housing used for derailleur systems should
be lined with a plastic sheath. Performance is always
improved by dripping or spraying oil into the housing
before installing the inner wire. When the wire is coated
with Teflon, Gore-Tex, or other coatings that reduce
friction, lubrication is generally is not desirable. Using
stainless-steel inner wires eliminates the need for lubrica-
tion to prevent rust.
Oil reduces the friction of uncoated inner wires and
reduces the tendency for the inner wire to rust. However,
using oil increases the tendency for grit to get drawn into
the housing as the oily wire moves in and out of the hous-
ing. Grease should not be used because it can congeal
when it gets cold or old, which lowers the performance
of the cable system.
31 – 8
32 – REAR DERAILLEURS
H
L 1
H
L
1 2
Creates Eliminates
hesitation hesitation
or noise or noise
H 2
H
L
L
1
Eliminates Creates
hesitation hesitation
or noise or noise
2 1
NAMING COGS AND GEAR COMBINATIONS 32 – 2
COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY 32 – 5
UNDERSTANDING HOW REAR DERAILLEURS WORK 32 – 7
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 32 – 9
TESTING INDEX PERFORMANCE 32 – 19
MEASURING THE FUNCTIONAL RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT (FRA) 32 – 20
REAR-DERAILLEUR SERVICE 32 – 21
PULLEY-WHEEL REPLACEMENT AND CAGE CLEANING 32 – 21
SHIMANO PIVOT SERVICE AND SPRING ADJUSTMENTS 32 – 23
SRAM PIVOT SERVICE AND SPRING ADJUSTMENTS 32 – 26
CAMPAGNOLO PIVOT SERVICE AND SPRING ADJUSTMENTS 32 – 26
DERAILLEUR-HANGER REPAIR 32 – 27
THREAD CHASING 32 – 27
THREAD REPLACEMENT 32 – 27
SLEEVE INSERTS 32 – 28
HANGER REPLACEMENT 32 – 28
SHIMANO RAPID-RISE DERAILLEURS 32 – 28
OVERVIEW 32 – 28
RAPID-RISE PROCEDURES 32 – 28
8-, 9-, & 10-SPEED COMPATIBILITY 32 – 29
REAR-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING 32 – 30
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Mounting bolt

Guide pulley
This chapter is about installing, adjusting, and ser- B-screw
Parallelogram
vicing rear derailleurs. The procedures for installation and
adjustment make references to installing the wheel, chain, H-screw H
derailleur control, and cable. These items are fully covered L-screw L
separately in preceding chapters. This chapter also covers

repair of derailleur-hanger threads.
Pinch
The procedure assumes that the front derailleur
mechanism
is installed. The front derailleur need not be precisely
Cage Cage
adjusted but must be capable of moving the chain to the (inner plate) (outer plate)
innermost and outermost chainrings. It may seem like a
good idea to install and adjust the front derailleur first, Tension pulley
because of this. However, the front-derailleur procedure 32.1 This side view and back view show the major
requires that the rear derailleur be able to shift the chain to parts of the rear derailleur.
the innermost and outermost positions, as well. Whichever Derailleur cage: The assembly at the bottom of the
is done first, to complete one derailleur adjustment it may derailleur that encloses the chain, consisting of two plates
be necessary to do some preliminary work on the other and two toothed wheels called pulley wheels.
derailleur, as well. Derailleur hanger: The plate to which the derail-
There is some confusing and contradictory termi- leur attaches. Sometimes it is integral to the right rear
nology used in regard to derailleurs, so be sure to become dropout. Sometimes the right rear dropout is a two-piece
acquainted with the following terminology section to construction so that the hanger can be replaced. On the
become clear on the terms used in this book. most inexpensive bikes, the derailleur hanger is the plate
that mounts between the dropout and the wheel-reten-
tion mechanism.
GENERAL INFORMATION Down-shift: This term will not be used because there
are two opposite ways that it could be understood. On
a rear cogset, a down-shift could be an out-shift because
TERMINOLOGY the chain is moving down onto a cog of smaller diameter.
An in-shift could also be called an down-shift because the
Adjusting barrel: A hollow screw in the derailleur that
the inner wire passes through and the housing stops against. chain is being moved to a cog that will create a lower gear
As the adjusting barrel is screwed in and out, the relative ratio. The terms in-shift and out-shift will be used to avoid
length or tension of the cable system is changed. this confusion.
B-screw: A screw used to adjust the spring tension First gear (or first position): Called first gear because
on the mounting pivot, which affects the distance between it is the first one counted when counting cogs on the
the cogs and the guide pulley. freewheel/freehub, this term is avoided because the inner-
Bottom gear: Same as low gear. most cog provides the lowest gear ratio, which might also
Cage pivot: The pivot that the derailleur cage rotates be called first gear.
about. The cage rotates so that the tension pulley can Guide pulley: The upper pulley wheel in the derailleur
move forward or backward. This keeps the chain taut cage that guides the chain from one cog to the next.
when its effective length changes as it is moved to gears H-screw: A limit screw for stopping the derailleur
of different sizes. from shifting the chain out past the outermost cog.
Cage-stop screw (or pin): A screw (or pin) in the High gear: With regard to rear derailleurs, high gear
outer cage plate that bumps into the cage-pivot housing typically means the rear cog with the fewest number of
to keep the cage-pivot spring from completely unwinding teeth. It is called high gear because it results in the high-
when the chain is not in the derailleur. est number when calculating gear ratios. It is confusing
32 – 1
because the cog with the greatest number of teeth sticks up the derailleur to change position to accommodate changes
higher and more teeth may seem to some to be “higher.” in gear size as the derailleur moves in and out. This pivot
For this reason, this book will always use the more wordy also allows the derailleur to be rotated back to allow rear-
alternative outermost gear or a letter code that is described wheel removal.
in the following section NAMING COGS AND GEAR COM- Out-shift: Any shift to a cog that is more outward
BINATIONS. than the one that the chain is currently on.
In-shift: Any shift to a cog that is more inward than Outer plate: The plate in the derailleur cage that is
the one that the chain is currently on. outward of the pulley wheels.
Indexing: This describes a type of shifting in which Outermost gear: The cog on the rear wheel that has
the shift mechanism moves in distinct increments. These the fewest teeth and is closest to the dropout. This term
increments are designed to be just the right amount to will be used instead of high gear, top gear, or first gear, or a
get the chain to move precisely from one gear to the letter code (described in the following section NAMING
next. Indexing has virtually replaced friction shifting. In COGS AND GEAR COMBINATIONS) will be used.
friction shifting, the lever moves smoothly over its full Over-shift: When the chain moves too far and does
range of motion without any incremental stops. It is up to not align with the intended cog.
the operator to decide what the correct amount of lever Parallelogram: With regard to the rear derailleur, this
motion is to get from one gear to the next. is the part of the body between the mounting pivot and
Inner plate: The plate in the derailleur cage that is the cage pivot (consisting of two arms on four pivots) that
inward of the pulley wheels. actuates to move the derailleur cage inward and outward.
Innermost gear: The cog on the rear wheel that has Pinch mechanism: The mechanism that attaches
the most teeth and is closest to the spokes. This term will the inner wire to the derailleur. The inner wire is usually
be used instead of low gear, bottom gear, or last gear, or a letter routed through a groove in a plate on the derailleur and a
code (described in the section NAMING COGS AND GEAR bolt or nut presses a washer or plate on top of the inner
COMBINATIONS) will be used. wire to trap and compress it in the groove. The groove in
Jockey wheel: An alternate name for a pulley wheel, the plate is often hidden by the pressure washer/plate.
generally the upper one. Guide pulley will be used instead. Pulley wheel: A toothed wheel in the derailleur cage
L-screw: A limit screw for stopping the derailleur that the chain runs on.
from shifting the chain in past the innermost cog. Return spring: When the tension on the inner
Last gear (or last position): A gear is called last gear wire is released, this spring inside the parallelogram
because it is the last one counted when counting cogs on causes the derailleur to move out as far as the outer-
the freewheel/freehub. This term is avoided because the limit screw will allow.
outermost cog provides the highest gear ratio, which might Stop tab: The tab near the bottom of the derailleur
also be called last gear. hanger that stops the forward rotation of the derailleur.
Limit screw: Adjustable stops that are used to stop Top gear: Same as high gear.
the inward and outward motion of the derailleur at points Under-shift: When the chain does not move far
that enable the chain to shift to the innermost and outer- enough and does not align with the intended cog.
most cogs without going too far. Up-shift: This term will not be used because there are
Low gear: With regard to rear derailleurs, low gear two opposite ways that it could be understood. On a rear
typically means the rear cog with the greatest number of cogset, an up-shift could be an in-shift because the chain is
teeth. It is called low gear because it results in the low- moving up onto a cog of larger diameter. An out-shift could
est number when calculating gear ratios. It is confusing also be called an up-shift because the chain is being moved
because the cog with the fewest number of teeth sticks up to a cog that will create a higher gear ratio. The terms in-shift
the least and fewer teeth may seem to some to be “lower.” and out-shift will be used to avoid this confusion.
For this reason, this book will always use the more wordy
alternative innermost gear, or a letter code (described in the
following section NAMING COGS AND GEAR COMBINA- NAMING COGS AND GEAR
TIONS) will be used. COMBINATIONS
Mounting bolt: The bolt through the topmost part To perform certain adjustments, the chain needs to
of the derailleur that attaches the derailleur to the derail- be in certain gear combinations. Numbering the gears to
leur hanger. identify them does not work because rear cogsets have
Mounting pivot: The derailleur pivots around the from 5 to 10 gears (so the innermost could be called 5, 6,
mounting bolt at the mounting pivot. This pivoting allows
32 – 2
7, 8, 9, or 10) and cranksets have from 1 to 3 chain rings Wear is a factor in the parallelogram pivots, the mount-
(so the innermost might be called 1, 2, or 3). ing pivot, and the cage pivot, but the most critical wear
To avoid confusion, gears will be assigned codes as factor is a worn-out guide pulley. A normal part of derail-
shown in figures 32.2 and 32.3 below. leur service would be to replace the guide pulley. When the
Z pivots are worn out, the derailleur must be replaced.
Y
Changing freewheel/freehub cogset
Any time a freewheel or freehub cogset is replaced
B with anything other than an identical replacement, it is
A necessary to adjust the rear derailleur.
32.2 The outermost cog is always A. The next-to-
outermost cog is always B. The next-to-innermost cog is Replacing rear wheel
always Y. The innermost cog is always Z. Any time a rear wheel is replaced with anything other
than an identical replacement, it is necessary to adjust the
L
M rear derailleur.
H
Aligning rear dropouts
After aligning the rear dropouts, the derailleur-hanger
32.3 The outermost chainring is always H. The
middle chainring of a triple is always M. The innermost alignment may have changed, which affects derailleur posi-
chainring is always L. tion and adjustment. Check and align the rear-derailleur
hanger and adjust the derailleur.
Using the above diagrams, it should be easy to con-
clude that putting the chain in a gear combination of A/M Bent derailleur hanger
would place the chain in the outermost position in the When bikes fall over on the right side or when the
rear and the middle position of a triple crank. Y/L would derailleur is shifted past the Z cog and into the spokes,
mean the chain was in the next-to-innermost position in the derailleur hanger is likely to be significantly bent. This
the rear and the innermost in the front. requires hanger alignment and derailleur adjustment.
Changing chain
PREREQUISITES Whenever a chain is changed, even if replacing a worn
chain with an identical replacement, shift performance
Rear wheel installation is affected. Fresh chains have less lateral flexibility than
Part of a complete derailleur setup is to align the
worn chains. Different chains have different performance
derailleur hanger. The wheel must be installed in precise
characteristics. After replacing a chain, the derailleur
alignment to perform the derailleur-hanger alignment.
adjustments should be checked.
Shifter and cable installation Symptoms indicating adjustment needed
To adjust the rear derailleur, the derailleur control and
There are a number of symptoms indicating a prob-
the cable system must be installed.
able need for derailleur adjustment.
Chain sizing If the derailleur under-shifts or over-shifts when
Rear-derailleur performance is influenced by chain shifting to the A cog, or the chain makes
length. It is necessary to size the chain to optimized shift excessive noise while on the A cog, the rear-
performance and to prevent derailleur damage. derailleur H-screw may need adjustment.
If the derailleur under-shifts or over-shifts when
shifting to the Z cog, or the chain makes
INDICATIONS excessive noise while on the Z cog, the rear-
Maintenance derailleur L-screw may need adjustment.
Dirt accumulation and wear both affect derailleur If any in-shift or out-shift to any cog between A
performance. and Z is hesitant or results in excessive chain
The obvious dirt on the pulley wheels is a factor, but noise after the shift is completed, it indicates
dirt hidden inside the mounting pivot and cage pivot can that the indexing needs adjustment.
drastically influence shift performance. For this reason, If the shift performance is poor in several outer cogs
normal maintenance of a rear derailleur should include but good in all the inner cogs, it may indicate that
disassembling and cleaning the entire derailleur. the B-screw or chain length needs adjustment.
32 – 3
Symptoms indicating derailleur service After a catastrophic shift of the derailleur into the
spokes or spoke guard, it is possible that either the plate
needed on the back side of the mounting pivot or a tab on the
There are several symptoms indicating that the
mounting-pivot housing may be damaged. If the plate
derailleur should be cleaned or the guide pulley should
is bent, it can often be bent back. If the tab on the
be replaced.
mounting-pivot housing is sheared off, the derailleur
Any time normal adjustments do not create
needs to be replaced.
acceptable shifting and all the components are
The mounting pivot, cage pivot, and parallelogram
known to be compatible, assume that disas-
pivots may all wear out to the point that shift performance
sembling and cleaning is needed, and the guide
is compromised. There is no way to quantify this wear or
pulley may need replacement.
point to a specific symptom that proves any of these pivots
When the derailleur body remains cocked back when
are significantly worn. When everything else is fine, but
shifting from the innermost cog out to the outer-
shift performance remains poor, consider these points for
most cog, it is a good indication that the mounting
wear. Check the wear by jerking the bottom of the derailleur
pivot and cage pivot are fouled with dirt.
cage in and out and noting the amount of free play that is
When the derailleur is obviously congested with
evident. Compare this to a new derailleur of similar brand
dirt and gummed up, it should be disassembled
and quality. If there is an obvious difference, then pivot wear
and cleaned.
may be the factor that is affecting shift performance.
Symptoms indicating derailleur
replacement needed TOOL CHOICES
The primary reason that derailleurs must be replaced Table 32-1 lists most of the tools available for rear-
is because they get bent. Other than adjusting barrels, derailleur adjustment. Preferred choices are shown in bold
pinch mechanisms, and pulley wheels, most parts are either type. Choices are preferred because of a combination of
unavailable or too costly to replace. ease of use, versatility, durability, and economy. If more
The most likely part of a rear derailleur to get bent than one choice of a particular tool type is bold, it indi-
is the cage. The symptom of a bent cage is that the two cates that either different tools are needed to work on
pulley wheels no longer share a common plane. When equipment with different configurations or that several
sighting through the central plane of one pulley wheel tools are equally preferred.
toward the other, the further wheel should be hidden
by the closer wheel. If not, the cage is probably bent.
Although it is possible to improve this condition, it is TIME AND DIFFICULTY
difficult to eliminate it. Rear-derailleur adjustment, including hanger align-
It is also possible that the parallelogram arms might ment and cable-system setup, is a 12–16 minute job of
be bent. It may be possible to see a twist along the length moderate difficulty. Rear-derailleur removal, disassembling,
of the arm, or it may appear that the plate on the back of cleaning, installation, and adjustment is a 30–35 minute
the mounting pivot is not parallel with the portion of the job of moderate difficulty.
outer cage plate where it mounts to the cage pivot.
REAR-DERAILLEUR TOOLS (table 32-1)

HANGER ALIGNMENT
Campagnolo R Sloppy pivot, not compatible with many wheel sizes
Park DAG-1 Low-play pivot, easy to use and to measure errors, fits all wheel sizes
VAR 139 Even easier to use than Park DAG-1, but lacks Park’s precision pivot
FOURTH-HAND (CABLE-TENSION) TOOLS (These tools also used for front derailleurs and brakes)
Hozan C356 Tends to let inner wire jam in tool
Lifu 01A1 Consumer tool
Park BT-2 Least tendency for inner wire to jam in tool
VAR 233 Tends to let inner wire jam in tool; not as durable as Park BT-2
32 – 4
COMPLICATIONS indexing performance has been tested. There is a section

in this chapter following the derailleur adjustment section
Component compatibility problems about testing indexing performance (page 32-21).
See the following section, COMPONENT COMPATI-
BILITY, for the numerous complications that exist.
Derailleur and hanger
These days, most derailleur hangers are of a relatively
Damaged derailleur uniform design. The variations that are exist are in the
Bent derailleurs are somewhat common but not thread type, the hanger length, and the angle of the stop
always obvious. It is not unusual to spend time adjusting tab on the hanger.
the derailleur, only to find that it will never work well Almost all derailleur hangers have a 10 × 1mm thread,
due to damage. except Campagnolo dropouts, which have a 10mm ×
26tpi thread. Fortunately, these two threads are a class
Damaged hanger B (acceptable) fit, in most cases. The problem comes if
Derailleur-hanger damage can be very minor or
installing an aluminum mounting bolt into an aluminum
severe. Minor damage consists of slight bends or damaged
hanger. The best solution is to always run a 10 × 1mm
threads. Slight bends can be aligned and damaged threads
tap through the hanger before installing a derailleur or
can be repaired or replaced. Major bends may require
hanger-alignment tool. This will clean the threads if they
replacement of the dropout by a frame builder.
already match or convert a 10mm × 26tpi thread to the
The recommended procedure starts all derailleur
more common type.
adjustments with a derailleur-hanger check. This elimi-
Derailleur hangers differ in how far below the axle they
nates the problem of getting most of the way through
position the mounting bolt of the derailleur. This affects two
an adjustment procedure, only to find the hanger needs
things: 1) The maximum-cog-size capacity of the derailleur
alignment and the adjustments will need to be redone.
(how large a rear cog can be accommodated). If the hanger
Worn components other than derailleur is longer than normal, the derailleur may work with a larger
Worn chains, rear cogs, cables, and derailleur controls cog size than it is rated for. If the hanger is shorter than
can all affect derailleur adjustment. It is usually not until normal, the derailleur may not work with the largest cog size
the attempt to adjust the derailleur fails that these other that it is rated for. 2) The other problem created by hanger
factors will be considered, resulting in duplication of effort length is how it affects shift performance when it is longer
to adjust the derailleur. than normal. An extra-long hanger will move the guide
pulley further from the cogs (particularly outer ones). This
Derailleur wear means greater lateral motion of the derailleur is required
Derailleur wear can be difficult to detect. The guide
for shifting and can mean that an indexing derailleur will
pulley is the most likely part to wear out, but removal
not perform adequately. A normal range of hanger length
is required to tell if the bearing is worn. The derailleur-
is approximately 24–30mm (axle center to mounting-hole
mounting pivot, cage pivot, and parallelogram pivot can
center). Deviations from this norm are most often found
all be worn out without any clear evidence but with a sig-
on frames with aluminum dropouts.
nificant effect on the performance of the rear derailleur.
Also, deviations in the angle of the hanger stop tab
Dirty drivetrain affect the distance from the guide pulley to the cogs. On
Dirt in the derailleur cage, pulley wheels, chain, cable many derailleurs, there is a body-angle-adjustment screw
system, derailleur control, and rear cogs can affect shift (B-screw) that compensates for these deviations. On some
performance. Adjusting a derailleur (particularly an index- unorthodox dropouts, the angle of the stop tab may be
ing one) without cleaning all the related components has beyond the capacity of the B-screw to compensate for. A
very limited potential for success. normal range for this angle (measured from the vertical
line through the center of the mounting hole) is 25°–35°,
COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY with larger values good for shorter hanger lengths and
smaller values good for longer hanger lengths. Filing the
As a rule, it is always best to follow manufacturer’s
stop tab can compensate for angles above 35°. Use of a
recommendations when selecting components. If not
longer B-screw may compensate for angles below 25°.
following the manufacturer’s recommendations, when
non-compatible components are used together, it should Derailleur and derailleur control
show up as a shifting problem. Not all problems are imme- With indexing systems, compatibility between the
diately obvious. If using non-matched components, do not derailleur control and derailleur is critical. This is because
assume that there are no compatibility problems until the an indexing shifter will pull a specific amount of cable for
32 – 5
each click. The derailleur must move in or out the right derailleur models but is up-to-date for only a
amount to line up with the next cog. If the amount of brief time after the date of publication. As of
cable that is moved is wrong, then the derailleur will move 2003, the most recent edition was published in
the wrong amount. 1995. It is particularly useful if trying to figure
The derailleur control and derailleur should be brand- out the capacity of an older-model derailleur
matched whenever possible. At the time of this writing, that is currently on a bike.
the only exceptions to this are a few aftermarket derailleur Bike-alog: This computerized source reference
controls that are made specifically for a different brand for bicycle parts has capacity information for
of derailleur, such as Grip Shift or Sachs controls made currently available derailleur models.
for Shimano derailleurs. Test method: To test if a derailleur’s maximum-
Even with brand-matching, there may be problems. cog-size capacity is being exceeded, follow this
Shimano Dura-Ace derailleur controls and derailleurs are procedure: Install the derailleur and size the
not compatible with other models of Shimano equip- chain normally. Shift the chain to the L chainring
ment. A customer’s 7-speed system may not be upgraded and then to the Z cog. If the chain will not shift
to 8-speed just by changing the shifter and the cogs. An to Z (and the limit screw is loose enough), then
8-speed-compatible derailleur may be needed, as well. the maximum cog size has been exceeded. If
the shift is completed, then tighten the B-screw
Derailleur and cogset (if any) all the way in. Backpedal and push up
In addition to being compatible with the shifter, the
on the cage pivot housing. If the guide pulley
derailleur must be compatible with the cogset. For proper
moves closer to the Z cog, then the maximum
index performance, ideally the cogset should be a brand
cog size has not been exceeded.
match with the derailleur. In addition, the derailleur needs
to be suitable to the number of cogs in the cogset. In
particular, cogsets with 8 or more gears require derailleurs
rated for use with a matching number of gears.
Bumping
Inner wire and derailleur control
The inner wire must be compatible with the derailleur
control because it is the combination of the shifter-drum
diameter and the inner-wire thickness that determines how
32.4 If the chain length is correct and the B-screw is
much cable is moved for a given amount of lever motion. as tight as possible, this symptom indicates the maxi-
See the DERAILLEUR CONTROLS chapter (page 30-2) for mum freewheel size of the derailleur has been exceeded.
more information on shifter and inner-wire compatibility.
Maximum cog size Maximum total capacity
Every derailleur is rated for maximum total capacity.
Every derailleur is rated for a maximum cog size. This
This number shows the derailleur’s capacity to pull up
number reflects the largest size cog that the derailleur can
slack chain when in the A/L position. The number (36T,
shift onto without jamming. The manufacturer’s rating is
for example) indicates the maximum sum for the rear-cog
based on an assumed derailleur-hanger length. If the actual
tooth differential added to the front-gear tooth differential.
hanger is longer than the assumed length, the derailleur
For example, a 12–30 cogset has a differential of 18 teeth.
may work on a cog that is a few teeth larger than the rating.
If the chainring set was 26–36–46, its differential would
If the actual hanger length is shorter than the assumed
be 20 teeth. The sum of these differentials would be 38T.
length, then the derailleur may not even work on a cog
A derailleur rated 36T would not be able to pull up all the
that is equal to the maximum-rated cog size.
chain slack if used on a bike with these gears.
Capacity ratings for rear derailleurs can be determined
Capacity ratings for rear derailleurs can be determined
in several ways.
in several ways.
Manufacturer’s literature: There is often an
instruction sheet that comes with a new derail-
instruction sheet that comes with a new derail-
leur. This instruction sheet normally includes
leur. This instruction sheet normally includes
the ratings for the derailleur. In addition, some
the ratings for the derailleur. In addition, some
manufacturers can supply literature on request.
manufacturers can supply literature on request.
Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics:
Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics:
This book includes ratings for a wide variety of
32 – 6
derailleur models but is up-to-date for only a when the derailleur moves its fixed amount, the chain will
brief time after the date of publication. As of not respond enough to complete the shift. Chains vary in
2003, the most recent edition was published in lateral flexibility because of brand differences and wear.
1995. It is particularly useful if trying to figure If manufacturer’s recommendations are not adhered to,
out the capacity of an older-model derailleur shift performance may be compromised.
that is currently on a bike.
Bike-alog: This computerized source reference
Chain and cogs
The width of a chain must be suitable to the
for bicycle parts has capacity information for
freewheel/freehub cogset or it may rub against adjacent
currently available derailleur models.
cogs. See the CHAINS chapter (page 26-2).
Test method: To test if a derailleur’s maximum
The shaping of the side plates of the chain affects
total capacity is being exceeded, follow this pro-
the chain’s ability to engage the cog teeth. When not using
cedure: Install the derailleur and size the chain
the manufacturer’s recommended chain, shift performance
at the shortest length that will allow the chain to
may be compromised.
keep a double bend through the derailleur cage
when the chain is in the Z/H position. Shift the
chain to the A/L position. Check if the chain UNDERSTANDING HOW REAR
hangs slack at the bottom or touches itself or
the derailleur cage an extra time on its way from DERAILLEURS WORK
the tension pulley to the chainring. The operation of a rear derailleur is relatively complex.
By understanding what is happening in a rear derailleur,
Sag the sense of the procedures will become more apparent
and what to do when problems arise will be clearer.
How the cable moves the derailleur in
and out
When the derailleur control is operated in a way that
pulls on the inner wire, the inner wire moves through
the pieces of housing. This extra wire has to come from
somewhere. That “somewhere” is the piece of exposed
inner wire between the adjusting barrel and the pinch
mechanism on the derailleur (see figure 32.6).
Extra contact This piece of exposed wire is routed diagonally across
32.5 These symptoms indicate the maximum capacity the derailleur parallelogram. When the wire is pulled, the
has been exceeded if the chain is not too long. distance across the parallelogram is shortened, which
deflects the lower end of the parallelogram inward. Fig-
Derailleur and first-cog position ure 32.6 shows this in a simplified form.
The surface that the derailleur mounts to must be
in a specified range of distance from the face of the A
cog. If not, then indexing problems will be experienced. wi
re
r
This relationship is a function of the thickness of the (fixed)
Inne
dropout/hanger and the right-side axle spacing. It can be Housing stop Cable pinch
adjusted by adding or subtracting spacers from the right Housing
side of the axle. In general, the shorter this dimension is,
the better. The only limit is when the chain interferes with
the frame or dropout when on the A cog or when shift-
Derailleur parallelogram
ing between the A cog and the B cog. A typical distance
from the face of the derailleur hanger to the face of the
32.6 When the inner wire is pulled through the hous-
A cog is 11–14mm. ing, it shortens the distance from the housing stop to
Derailleur and chain the pinch mechanism, which changes the distance from
one end of the parallelogram to the other. This translates
Indexed derailleurs moved in fixed amounts. The chain into lateral motion of the derailleur cage.
must respond as expected for the shift to be completed. If
the chain has more lateral flexibility than expected, then
32 – 7
When the tension on the cable is released, a spring Changing the H-screw setting only changes the shift
in the parallelogram causes it to return in the direction to the outermost cog. Changing the L-screw setting only
of its starting point. changes the shift to the innermost cog. Figures 32.7 and
32.8 show a simplified and exaggerated model of how limit
How limit screws work screws affect the range of motion of the parallelogram.
The two limit screws are like two adjustable barri-
cades. There is usually some projection or surface on a Why and how the guide pulley tracks
parallelogram arm that the limit screw butts up against. By close below the cogs
adjusting one limit screw, the limit of the range of travel One of the most important factors in shift perfor-
for the parallelogram in one direction will be altered. By mance is the distance from the guide pulley to the bottom
loosening the H-screw, the barricade that stops the out- of the cogs. Between the guide pulley and the cog, there
ward motion of the parallelogram is moved further out, is an unsupported section of chain. When the distance
so the parallelogram may move further out. By loosening between the guide pulley and cog is short, it takes less lat-
the L-screw, the barricade that stops the inward motion eral motion of the guide pulley to deflect the chain and get
of the parallelogram is moved further inward. it to derail from one cog and engage another. For example:
H Stop tab attached to parallelogram arm If 6mm of lateral motion of the guide pulley caused a
20° chain deflection when the length of unsupported
chain was one link, then it might take 8mm of lateral
motion of the guide pulley to cause a 20° chain deflection
when the unsupported chain length was two links long.
Consequently, for good index-shifting performance, the
distance of the guide pulley from the cogs must be kept
short and consistent.
This is done by a complex set of mechanical pro-
cesses.
The simplest to understand is that the parallelogram is
slanted. This is done so that the end of the parallelogram
will move down as it moves inward toward the bottom
of the larger cogs.
32.7 When the derailleur moves outward, a stop fixed

on one of the parallelogram arms bumps into the end of
the H-screw to stop the derailleur’s motion.
Stop tab attached to parallelogram arm
L
Derailleur body B
Cage pivot
Guide pulley
Cage
A
Tension pulley
32.8 When the derailleur moves inward, a stop fixed 32.9 If the chain is shortened a link or two, the ten-
on one of the parallelogram arms bumps into the end of sion pulley moves (A), and the pivoting cage moves the
the L-screw to stop the derailleur’s motion. guide pulley away from the cogs (B).
32 – 8
On most derailleurs, the center of the guide pulley
is offset from the center of the cage pivot. The result of
ABOUT THE REST
this is that, as the cage rotates to take up more or less slack OF THIS CHAPTER
chain, the center of the guide pulley rotates around the The rest of this chapter is divided into seven parts.
cage pivot and changes its position relative to the cogs. The sections are:
It is this offset of the guide pulley to the cage pivot that INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
makes chain length so important to shift performance (see TESTING INDEX PERFORMANCE
figure 32.9, page 32-8). REAR-DERAILLEUR SERVICE
DERAILLEUR-HANGER-THREAD REPAIR
SHIMANO RAPID-RISE DERAILLEURS
8-, 9-, & 10-SPEED COMPATIBILITY
REAR-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING
INSTALLATION AND
B
ADJUSTMENT
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Before proceeding further, be sure to be
acquainted with the section NAMING COGS AND
GEAR COMBINATIONS (page 32-2).
Compatibility checks
1. [ ] Check reference information to determine that
A
derailleur and derailleur control are compatible.
2. [ ] Check reference information to determine
that inner wire, housing, and derailleur con-
trol are compatible.
that derailleur control is compatible with
brand of cogset and number of cogs.
32.10 When the chain is shifted to a larger chainring, 4. [ ] Check reference information to determine if
the tension pulley moves (A), and this moves the cage
pivot counterclockwise (B). Due to the offset between
chain is compatible with cogset.
the guide pulley and the cage pivot, the guide pulley
moves less (C) than the cage pivot moved.
The last thing that affects guide-pulley position is the
balance of the opposing springs in the mounting pivot and
the cage pivot. One spring tends to move the guide pulley
down, and the other moves it up. The mounting-pivot
spring tension is adjustable by adjusting the B-screw. The
cage-pivot spring tension is adjustable by disassembling
the rear derailleur and moving the spring to a different
mounting hole in the derailleur-cage plate. Consider this
example: When the chain is shifted to the larger chainring, 14mm or less
it pulls the bottom of the derailleur cage forward, which
moves the guide pulley down. This counterclockwise cage
rotation also increases the tension on the cage-pivot spring,
which counterbalances the mounting-pivot spring more
and causes the derailleur body to rotate counterclockwise, 32.11 Measuring hanger face to A cog face.
moving the guide pulley back up (see figure 32.10). 5. [ ] Check that face of A cog is no more than
14mm from face of derailleur hanger.
32 – 9
Hanger alignment Horizontal error is determined by measuring at the

The derailleur hanger is aligned to the plane of the 9:00 and 3:00 positions. If there is error, there is no way
rear wheel. For this to work well, the wheel should be cor- to know in advance whether it will be a gap at the 9:00
rectly dished, reasonably true, and in the frame in good or 3:00 position. The procedure starts at 9:00 and then
alignment. See the WHEEL REMOVAL, REPLACEMENT, AND goes to 3:00, anticipating that the gap will be found there.
INSTALLATION chapter (page 18-17) for information about If there is a gap at 3:00, then it must be measured to
installing wheels. To measure whether the wheel is cen- determine if it is significant. If the tool indicator overlaps
tered between a pair of stays, butt the end of the caliper the rim at 3:00, then the tool should be reset at 3:00 and
up against a stay and extend the depth gauge to the rim. the gap should be checked at 9:00.
Get a similar reading from the opposite side, making sure
the caliper is aligned in the same way and touches the rim
at the equivalent point. If the readings are 1mm or less
different, the wheel is well centered. If not, try re-aligning
it by moving the axle slightly in the slots. The length of
the slot allows adjustment in one direction, and the fact
Contact
that the slot is wider than the axle allows some limited
DAG-1 indicator
adjustment in the other direction. Lack of precision in
the rear triangle may make it impossible to achieve the
desired tolerance, in which case the wheel should be left
as close as possible to centered.
6. [ ] Install correctly dished and trued rear wheel
so that there is ≤1mm centering error to seat
stays and chain stays.
When aligning the hanger, measurements will be taken
at the 12:00, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 positions on the rim. If
the bike is tipped at the wrong angle, then the chain stay
may interfere with getting the tool to the 3:00 position, or 32.12 Set the tool to contact the RRP at 9:00.
the seat stay may interfere with getting the tool to the
11. [ ] Adjust DAG-1 to just contact RRP at 9:00
12:00 position. If the bike is positioned with the chain stay position.
parallel to the ground or sloping slightly up to the front, To easily move the DAG-1 to 3:00, slide the indicator
then the tool will access all the points easily. assembly in toward the tool pivot a few inches, then move
7. [ ] Put bike in position that puts chain stay par-
the RRP and the end of the tool to 3:00. Once there, slide
allel to ground or sloping up to front slightly.
NOTE: Some bikes have replaceable derailleur the indicator assembly out to the rim.
hangers that are brittle and prone to failure
while being aligned. Do not align replaceable
hangers unless a replacement is at hand.
8. [ ] Thread Park DAG-1 into hanger.
The Park DAG-1 can be adjusted to reduce play at the 1 4
mounting-bolt pivot. This is done by means of tightening
a small set screw in the portion of the tool that houses the 2
mounting bolt. Reducing this play is critical to the accuracy
3
of the tool, so do not skip the following step.
Gap?
9. [ ] Check for excess play in tool pivot and DAG-1 indicator
adjust out play with set screw, if necessary.
To reduce the significance of true errors, the rim will
be rotated to the same four points as the tool, so that the
32.13 1. Move the indicator assembly in toward the
reading is always being done to the same point on the rim. wheel center. 2. Rotate the DAG-1 to the 3:00 position.
If the tire is installed, the valve stem makes a great rim 3. Rotate the RRP to the 3:00 position. 4. Move the
reference point (RRP). If not, then put a piece of tape indicator assembly until the indicator is at the rim. Now,
on the rim to make an RRP. check the gap (or overlap) between the rim and indicator.
10. [ ] Put a piece of tape or a mark on rim for a 12. [ ] Move DAG-1 and RRP to 3:00 position (if
rim reference point (RRP) or use valve stem. tool overlaps rim, skip to step 14).
32 – 10
In the following step, use a 4mm stack of feeler gauges 19. If there is error, choose whether it is:
or a 4mm hex key to check whether the gap is more or 0–4mm gap, minor error, done
less than 4mm. If 4mm or less, the hanger alignment in Overlaps rim, go to step 20
the horizontal plane is good. If more than 4mm, then the >4mm gap, continue below:
[ ] Correct by applying leverage to tool until
error should be corrected.
gap is reduced by 50%.
To correct the error, slide the indicator along the main
[ ] Return tool and RRP to 12:00 and reset
bar, away from the rim, then push in on the main bar of tool to just contact.
the tool. Keep in mind that a full correction will be done [ ] Return tool and RRP to 6:00 and check
by pushing in enough to reduce the gap by half. If an that gap is <4mm. (If overlap was cre-
over-correction is done, then the gap will switch to the ated, correction was too much and should
position where the tool was initially set to have contact. It be reversed.)
does not matter if the gap switches to the other position, [ ] Repeat correction as necessary until gap
as long as it ends up at 4mm or less. is <4mm.
13. If there is error, choose whether it is: NOTE: If tool did not overlap rim at 6:00 in step
0–4mm gap, minor error—go to step 17 19, skip steps 20–22.
Overlaps rim, go to step 14 20. [ ] Reset tool at 6:00 position to just contact
>4mm gap, continue below: rim.
[ ] Correct by applying leverage to tool until 21. [ ] Move DAG-1 and rim reference point (RRP)
gap is reduced by 50%. to 12:00 position.
[ ] Return tool and RRP to 9:00 and reset 22. If there is a gap, choose whether it is:
tool to just contact. 0–4mm gap, minor error, done
[ ] Return tool and RRP to 3:00 and check >4mm gap, continue below.
that gap is <4mm. (If overlap was cre- [ ] Correct by applying leverage to tool until
ated, correction was too much and should gap is reduced by 50%.
be reversed.) [ ] Return tool and RRP to 6:00 and reset
[ ] Repeat correction as necessary until gap tool to just contact.
is <4mm, then go to step 17. [ ] Return tool and RRP to 12:00 and
NOTE: If tool did not overlap rim at 3:00 in step check that gap is <4mm. (If overlap was
13, skip steps 14–16. created, correction was too much and
14. [ ] Reset tool at 3:00 position to just contact should be reversed.)
RRP. [ ] Repeat correction as necessary until gap
15. [ ] Move DAG-1 and RRP to 9:00 position. is <4mm.
16. If there is error, choose whether it is: While correcting the vertical alignment at 12:00
0–4mm gap, minor error—go to step 17 and 6:00, it is easy to mess up the horizontal alignment
>4mm gap, continue below. slightly. After correcting the vertical, check the horizontal
[ ] Correct by applying leverage to tool until again and correct whatever minor error may have been
gap is reduced by 50%. created. This need for a repeat correction can be reduced
[ ] Return tool and RRP to 3:00 and reset by achieving a near-perfect alignment when first doing
tool to just contact.
the 3:00/9:00 alignment.
[ ] Return tool and RRP to 9:00 and check
23. [ ] Recheck at 3:00 and 9:00 for a difference
that gap is <4mm. (If overlap was cre-
of 4mm or less and correct as necessary in
ated, correction was too much and should
same fashion.
be reversed.)
[ ] Repeat correction as necessary until gap
is <4mm.
After correcting the horizontal error, the vertical
error needs to be checked and corrected. The procedure
is exactly the same, other than the fact that the two posi-
tions are 12:00 and 6:00.
17. [ ] Adjust DAG-1 to just contact rim at 12:00
position.
18. [ ] Move DAG-1 and rim reference point (RRP)
to 6:00 position. (If tool overlaps rim, skip
to step 20.)
32 – 11
Lubrication of derailleur Although it does not matter with most modern

derailleurs, the derailleur should be rotated fully coun-
Front and back
Front and back terclockwise when the bolt is being secured. Some older
derailleurs would hold any position they were in at the
Threads point the mounting bolt was secured. Rather than trying
H to figure out whether the derailleur being installed is one
of the ones that holds whatever position it is secured in,
L
rotate all derailleurs fully counterclockwise just before the

mounting bolt begins to tighten.
Threads
32.14 Oil at all points indicated by arrows.

24. Lubricate following points:
[ ] Edge of each pulley-wheel dustcap
[ ] Both ends of all four parallelogram pivots
[ ] Mounting-bolt threads
[ ] Adjusting-barrel threads
[ ] Pinch-mechanism threads
Attaching derailleur to hanger 32.16 The derailleur should be kept in this position
When mounting the derailleur to the hanger, it is easy while securing the mounting bolt.
to damage the derailleur or hanger if the derailleur is not 28. [ ] Rotate derailleur counterclockwise until stop
lined up properly as the mounting bolt is tightened. To tab on mounting plate or end of B-screw is
prevent this, rotate the derailleur considerably clockwise against stop tab on derailleur hanger.
from its operating position, so that the stop tab or B-screw 29. [ ] Secure mounting bolt to 70in-lbs.
on the back of the derailleur is behind the stop tab on the
bottom of the derailleur hanger (see figure 32.15).
ADJUSTMENT
The processes of describing cogs by their relative
positions and describing gear combinations involving dif-
ferent front chainrings and rear cogs can get very wordy
and awkward. For this reason, all the following procedures
use a code system to name different cogs and gear com-
binations. This code system is described in detail in the
earlier section of this chapter, NAMING COGS AND GEAR
COMBINATIONS (page 32-2). Become acquainted with this
before attempting the following procedures.
32.15 The derailleur should be kept in this position while GEAR COMBINATIONS (page 32-2).
engaging and threading the mounting bolt into the hanger.
Presetting limit screws
25. [ ] Line mounting bolt up with mounting hole in The limit screws need to be set in an approximate
hanger. fashion before the cable and chain are installed. The
26. [ ] Rotate derailleur clockwise until stop tab on
purpose of this is to keep the chain from shifting off
mounting plate or end of B-screw is clock-
wise of stop tab on derailleur hanger.
the cogset while performing the final adjustments. Precise
27. [ ] Use long end of L-shaped hex key to thread adjustment of the limit screws is done later; do not waste effort
mounting bolt into hanger, but do not doing step #30 and #31 too precisely! When the H-screw is
secure. NOTE: Using short end as handle tightened, it reduces the outward range of motion of the
insures bolt will not be cross-threaded or derailleur. When the L-screw is tightened, it reduces the
tightened to much. inward range of motion of the rear derailleur.
32 – 12
32. [ ] Use procedures in DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS
chapter to install cable system.
33. [ ] Loosen or disassemble pinch mechanism to
2 find groove covered by pinch plate or washer.
Routing the inner wire through the pinch mechanism
H correctly can be counterintuitive. The best procedure is
to disassemble the pinch mechanism in order to find the
L1
H
groove that the inner wire should sit in. The inner wire
L usually approaches the pinch mechanism in close to a
straight line from the adjusting barrel and goes through
the pinch mechanism without bending.
1 2
Some pinch mechanisms have an irregularly shaped
32.17 Turning the H-screw will change the derail- plate that presses on the top of the inner wire. It is not
leur’s outward rest position in the direction indicated always obvious how this plate is rotated. There are some
by the corresponding numbers. Adjust the screw so
that the guide pulley ends up in the range indicated by
that will fit in two different positions, but only one is
the dashed lines. correct. These plates typically have a narrow tab that
30. [ ] Standing behind bike, check whether guide
hangs over one edge of the plate that is beneath the
pulley is lined up below A cog, then tighten inner wire. See figure 32.19 for the correct orientation
H-screw to move guide pulley in, or loosen of this type of pinch plate.
to move guide pulley out, as needed. Pinch plate
Tab
GOOD
BAD Tab
32.19 The left picture shows correct orientation of
2
H the pinch plate and the right one shows the wrong
orientation.
H
L
L 34. [ ] Lay inner wire into groove and gently secure
1 pinch bolt/nut just enough to keep cable
from falling out of pinch mechanism. If
the pinch plate has a narrow tab that folds
over edge of plate with groove, narrow tab
always goes clockwise of section of wire
entering pinch mechanism.
2 1
The inner wire needs some slack removed, but not too
32.18 Turning the L-screw will change the derailleur’s much or it will interfere with the setting of the H-screw (par-
most inward position in the direction indicated by the ticularly if the preliminary setting of the H-screw was some-
corresponding numbers. Adjust the L-screw so that the
what too tight). In the next step, just pull most of the slack out
innermost position of the guide pulley ends up in the
range indicated by the dashed lines. of the inner wire before torquing the pinch nut/bolt.
35. [ ] Pull most of slack out of inner wire by hand
31. [ ] Standing behind bike, move derailleur inward and secure pinch mechanism to 35in-lbs.
by hand to its limit of motion and check Check that inner wire is still in groove.
whether guide pulley lines up below Z cog. NOTE: Install front derailleur to roughly final
Tighten L-screw to restrict guide pulley from position and attach front-cable system at this
moving inward of cog, or loosen to allow time, if front derailleur not already installed.
guide pulley to move inward more.
Cable attachment Chain length and capacity checks
36. [ ] Install chain and size by procedure in CHAINS
When adjusting an indexing derailleur, cable setup is chapter (page 26-10).
critical to get good performance. Even if adjusting a derail- 37. [ ] Shift chain to A/L position and check that
leur on a bike with the cable already installed, removing chain does not hang slack or touch itself
the cable and setting it up by the procedures outlined in or derailleur cage an extra time, indicating
the preceding chapter, DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS is length is too long or derailleur maximum
highly recommended. capacity is exceeded.
32 – 13
38. Check whether maximum-cog-size capacity of aligned more precisely with the Z cog before continuing
rear derailleur is exceeded: with the B-screw check and adjustment.
[ ] Loosen B-screw fully. 40. Adjust B-screw:
[ ] Shift chain to Z/L position. [ ] Turn B-screw fully counterclockwise, if
[ ] Backpedal and push up on cage-pivot not already.
housing to check whether guide pulley is [ ] Shift chain to Z/L position by using the
jammed against bottom of Z cog, indicating derailleur control for front derailleur and pull-
maximum-cog-size capacity is exceeded. ing on exposed inner wire with fingers to
39. Check whether chain is too short: operate rear derailleur.
[ ] Shift chain to Z/H position [ ] While keeping rear derailleur in position
[ ] Check whether chain has double bend under Z cog by maintaining pull on inner wire,
where it passes through derailleur cage, indi- backpedal to check whether guide pulley is
cating chain is not too short. bouncing off teeth on bottom of Z cog.
[ ] Tighten B-screw by 1-turn increments if
B-screw setting bouncing experienced, and repeat checks
To maximize shift performance, the B-screw (if any) and adjustment until symptom is eliminated.
should be set to keep the guide pulley as close to the bot-
tom of the cogset as possible. This procedure is based H-screw setting
on starting with the B-screw as loose as possible, then When the chain is on the H chainring, the rear-
turning it in if symptoms indicate that the guide pulley is derailleur pulley wheel is pulled further from the A cog,
too close to the Z cog. making the shift more challenging. For this reason, the
chain should always be on this chainring while performing
an H-screw adjustment.
Bumping
A H
32.21 Proper chain position for beginning the check of

the H-screw adjustment.
32.20 With the chain in the gear combination shown,
41. [ ] Shift chain to H using front-derailleur control.
backpedal and check for the bouncing symptom that
indicates the B-screw is too loose. The derailleur control should not be used to operate the
rear derailleur because it can introduce variables that may
Campagnolo derailleurs have B-screws at two dif-
make it appear as though the H-screw needs adjustment
ferent locations. When they are located at the mounting
when it does not. To bypass the derailleur control, operate
pivot, they function exactly like all other B-screws. Some
the rear derailleur by pulling out on the exposed inner wire
models have a B-screw located in the cage adjacent to
at the down tube or top tube (wherever it is routed).
the cage-pivot housing. When this is the case, the screw 42. [ ] Shift chain to B by pulling on exposed inner
performs the same function, but the direction of rotation wire at down tube or top tube with hand.
is reversed to get the same result. Pedaling cadence is very important when checking
The third check-off in step #40 suggests looking the shift to the A cog, because slow chain motion creates
for a symptom that indicates that the guide pulley is too slow shifting. The normal time for a rider to shift to the
close to the Z cog. This symptom is described as bouncing. A cog is when pedaling speed in the B cog has gotten too
What will be experienced is either a grinding or rumbling fast, so there is nothing realistic about checking the shift
noise, or it will appear that the derailleur is jerking up from the B cog to the A cog at low pedaling speed. The
an down slightly at the guide pulley as each cog tooth 60rpm recommended below is conservatively slow, so do
passes by the pulley. It is possible that the symptom is not pedal any slower.
caused by poor alignment of the guide pulley to the Z The inner wire should be released quickly, not grad-
cog, because the L-screw and the indexing have not yet ually, because that is the way it will happen when the rider
been finally adjusted. This can easily be checked. Rotate is using the derailleur control to operate the rear derailleur.
the derailleur body clockwise just enough to move the Slow release of the inner wire will create a false impression
guide pulley 1/8" further from the Z cog. If the symp- that the H-screw is too tight.
tom goes away, the B-screw needs adjustment. If the If the chain shifts promptly to the A cog when first
symptom does not go away, the guide pulley needs to be checked, it does not mean the adjustment is acceptable.
There is always a range of settings of the H-screw that
32 – 14
will create an acceptable shift, but only the tightest setting NOTE: Skip step 44 if chain hesitated or clattered
that does so is a good one. The reason for this is that all after shifting in step 43.
settings of limit screws tend to change from tighter to If there was no symptom of the H-screw being too
looser with time and wear. By setting the screw at the tight in step #43, then one must be created in step #44.
tightest good setting, the longest time before the need for There is no great precision needed when creating this
readjustment is assured. Consequently, if the initial check symptom, so half-turn adjustments of the H-screw will
of the shift to the A cog shows no negative symptoms, get quick results. Later, when eliminating the too-tight
then step #44 is done in order to deliberately create a condition symptom, greater precision is needed, so the H-screw will
of the H-screw being too tight. be loosened by quarter-turn increments.
When the H-screw is too tight, one of two symptoms
will be experienced: Either there will be unacceptable noise
after completing the shift, or there will be a delay, hesita-
tion, or failure to the complete the shift. 2
Unacceptable noise after the completion of the shift
can be subtle and can be confused with normal noises H
that are always occurring as a chain feeds onto a cog. Two L 1
things will clarify whether the noise is normal or from the H
H-screw being too tight. First, when the H-screw is too L
tight, the noise is created by the inner face of the chain

rubbing against the outer face of the B cog while the chain 2
1
is on the A cog. By standing behind the bike and look- Creates Eliminates
ing under the cogset, this rubbing can be seen. If there hesitation hesitation
is noise but no contact between the chain and the B cog, or noise or noise
then the noise is not due to the H-screw being too tight. 32.22 Turning the H-screw will change the derailleur’s
The second way to confirm whether the noise is because outward rest position in the direction indicated by the
the H-screw is too tight is to loosen the screw one quarter corresponding numbers.
turn more. If the noise is reduced, the over-tight H-screw 44. [ ] Turn H-screw 1/2 turn and repeat shift from
was the cause. If the noise does not reduce, then the noise B to A, checking for whether hesitation or
is normal chain noise. post-shift clatter happens. Repeat this step as
The other symptom that the H-screw is too tight is many times as necessary until there is either
that the chain hesitates when shifting to the A cog. This more hesitation or clatter after shifting.
hesitation can be a function of slow pedaling or slow If the too-tight H-screw symptom was experienced
release of the inner wire, so be sure these things are when first checking the shift to the A cog in step #43, it
avoided. Not all derailleur systems shift equally quickly, so could take any number of quarter turns of the H-screw to
this evaluation is somewhat subjective. The chain should eliminate the symptom. On the other hand, if the too-tight
begin to shift the instant the cable is released. If the cable symptom was deliberately created in step #44, then it should
is released and the shift happens half a pedal stroke later, take either one quarter turn or two quarter turns of H-screw
that is definitely hesitation. Most modern derailleurs per- loosening to eliminate the symptom. This is because the
form well enough that the primary symptom of a tight H-screw was turned 1/2 turn to create the too-tight symptom
H-screw will be noise after the shift, not a hesitant shift. from a setting that was not too tight in step #44.
Obviously, if the chain will not shift to the A cog at all, 45. [ ] Turn H-screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn
and repeat shift from B to A, checking for
then the H-screw is too tight.
whether hesitation or post-shift clatter is
When repetitive loosening of the H-screw creates no progress, eliminated. Repeat this step as many times
then the inner wire is probably too tight! as necessary until symptoms are eliminated.
43. While pedaling at 60rpm or more, quickly
A simple double-check can be done after the com-
release rear-derailleur inner wire and observe
whether (check one):
pletion of the H-screw adjustment to confirm that it is
[ ] Chain does not hesitate shifting to A; not too loose. Tighten the H-screw 1/2 turn and check the
H-screw should be tightened, go to step 44. shift. Too-tight symptoms should be obvious at this point,
[ ] Chain hesitates or clatters after shifting if the H-screw was set at the best possible setting.
to A; H-screw should be loosened, go to
step 45.
32 – 15
L-screw setting If the chain shifts promptly to the Z cog when first
Having the chain on the correct chainring when checked, it does not mean the adjustment is acceptable.
shifting to the Z cog to check the L-screw is important There is always a range of settings of the L-screw that
because the size of chainring changes the distance between will create an acceptable shift, but only the tightest setting
the guide pulley and the Z cog. The largest chainring that that does so is a good one. The reason for this is that all
would normally be used when the chain is on the Z cog is settings of limit screws tend to change from tighter to
the M chainring on a triple-chainring set or the L chainring looser with time and wear. By setting the screw at the
on a double-chainring set. If the L-screw is set when the tightest good setting, the longest time before the need for
chain is on the H chainring, then the L-screw would end up readjustment is assured. Consequently, if the initial check
even looser. On modern high-performance derailleurs this of the shift to the Z cog shows no negative symptoms, then
would usually be a small difference and would only reduce step #49 is done in order to deliberately create a condition of
the time before the L-screw would need readjustment by a the L-screw being too tight.
small amount. On low-performance derailleurs the conse- When the L-screw is too tight, one of two symptoms
quence would be more critical; setting the L-screw while will be experienced. Either there will be unacceptable noise
the chain is on the H chainring could result in the chain after completing the shift, or there will be a delay, hesita-
shifting into the spokes, particularly when shifting onto tion, or failure to the complete the shift.
the Z cog while the chain is on the L chainring (particularly Unacceptable noise after the completion of the shift
on a bike with three chainrings). can be subtle and can be confused with normal noises
46. [ ] Shift chain to M (triple chainrings) or L (dou- that are always occurring as a chain feeds onto Z cog. Two
ble chainrings) using front-derailleur control. things will clarify whether the noise is normal or from the
The derailleur control should not be used to operate L-screw being too tight. First, when the L-screw is too
the rear derailleur because it can introduce variables that tight, the noise is created by the inner plates of the chain
may make it appear as though the L-screw needs adjustment rubbing against the teeth of the Z cog as the chain feeds
when it does not. To bypass the derailleur control, operate onto the Z cog. By standing behind the bike and looking
the rear derailleur by pulling out on the exposed inner wire under the cogset, this rubbing can be seen and the guide
at the down tube or top tube (wherever it is routed). pulley should appear obviously outward from the Z cog.
47. [ ] Shift chain to Y by pulling on exposed inner If there is noise but the guide pulley lines up directly
wire at down tube or top tube with hand. under or inward of the Z cog, then the noise is not being
caused by a too-tight L-screw. The second way to confirm
Y L whether the noise is because the L-screw is too tight is to
loosen the screw 1/4 turn more. If the noise is reduced,
the over-tight L-screw was the cause. If the noise is not
Y M reduced, then the noise is normal chain noise, a too-loose
B-screw, or even a too-loose L-screw.
The other symptom that the L-screw is too tight is
32.23 These are the correct positions for the chain that the chain hesitates when shifting to the Z cog. This
when preparing to check the shift to the Z cog. hesitation can be a function of slow pedaling or slow
pulling of the inner wire, so be sure these things are
Pedaling cadence is very important when checking
avoided. Not all derailleur systems shift equally quickly,
the shift to the Z cog because slow chain motion creates
so this evaluation is somewhat subjective. The chain
slow shifting. The normal time for a rider to shift to the
should begin to shift the instant the cable is pulled. It
Z cog is when the pedaling speed in the B cog has gotten
should not clatter while shifting. If the cable is pulled
too slow, so there is nothing realistic about checking the
and the shift happens half a pedal stroke later, that is
shift from the Y cog to the Z cog at too high a pedaling
definitely hesitation. Obviously, if the chain will not shift
speed. The 60rpm recommended here is somewhat fast,
to the Z cog at all, then the L-screw is too tight.
so do not pedal faster than 60rpm. 48. While pedaling at approximately 60rpm, pull
The inner wire should be pulled quickly, not gradually, rear-derailleur inner wire quickly and observe
because that is the way it will happen when the rider is whether (check one):
using the derailleur control to operate the rear derailleur. [ ] Chain does not hesitate shifting to Z;
Slow pulling of the inner wire will create a false impres- L-screw should be tightened, go to step 49.
sion that the L-screw is too tight. [ ] Chain hesitates or clatters after shifting
to Z; L-screw should be loosened, go to step
50.
32 – 16
NOTE: Skip step 49 if chain hesitated or clattered
after shifting in step 48.
Cable stressing
A frequently used term is cable stretch. There is never
If there was no symptom of the L-screw being too a great-enough force on the inner wire to permanently
tight in step #48, then one must be created in step #49. change its length (stretch). Somehow, however, cable sys-
There is no great precision needed when creating this tems develop slack rapidly after installation. This develop-
symptom, so half-turn adjustments of the L-screw will ment of slack can compromise the indexing adjustment.
get quick results. Later, when eliminating the too-tight What causes this slack is the inner-wire head seating into its
symptom, greater precision is needed, so the L-screw will socket and the housing ends and fittings seating into their
be loosened by quarter-turn increments. sockets. This can happen gradually, as shifting loads are
repeatedly put on the cable systems, or it can be simulated
by stressing the cable system one time at a substantially
higher load than normal. This over-load stressing also
tests the cable system for integrity.
Since the systems will be over-loaded, it is important
H 2 that the derailleur control and the derailleur be in posi-
H
L tions that can support the load. The derailleur should be
L at its innermost position, supported by the L-screw. The
1
derailleur control should be at its fully released position,
supported by its own internal stop. To accomplish this, the
lever must be operated to put the chain on the A cog, and
Eliminates Creates
hesitation hesitation then the inner wire must be pulled manually while pedaling
or noise or noise to put the chain on the Z cog. Once the chain is in place,
2 1 stop pedaling and pull out hard on the inner wire a few
32.24 Turning the L-screw will change the derailleur’s times. Protect your hand from damage by using a folded
most inward position in the direction indicated by the rag between your hand and the inner wire.
corresponding numbers. 51. [ ] Make sure rear-derailleur control is fully
49. [ ] Turn L-screw 1/2 turn and repeat shift from released.
Y to Z, checking for whether hesitation or 52. [ ] While pedaling, pull on exposed inner wire
post-shift clatter happens. Repeat this step at down tube or top tube until chain is on Z
as many times as necessary until there is cog, then stop pedaling.
either more hesitation on the shift or clatter 53. [ ] With chain still on Z cog, pull hard on
after the shift. exposed inner wire to seat cable heads
If the too-tight H-screw symptom was experienced and housing ends in stops and sockets and
when first checking the shift to the Z cog in step #48, it to test integrity of pinch mechanism and
cable system.
could take any number of quarter turns of the L-screw
54. [ ] Pedal crank so chain returns to A cog.
to eliminate the symptom. On the other hand, if the too-
tight symptom was deliberately created in step #49, then Basic cable tensioning
it should take either one quarter turn or two quarter turns Coarse adjustment of the inner-wire tension is done
of L-screw loosening to eliminate the symptom. This is by pulling or releasing wire through the pinch mechanism
because the L-screw was turned two quarter turns to cre- on the derailleur. Fine tuning will be done afterward by
ate the too-tight symptom from a setting that was not too using the adjusting barrel on the rear derailleur.
tight in step #49. 55. [ ] Loosen inner-wire pinch mechanism. NOTE:
50. [ ] Turn L-screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn With proper amount of loosening, cable can
and repeat shift from Y to Z, checking for slide through pinch mechanism, but cannot
whether hesitation or post-shift clatter is be pulled out side of pinch mechanism.
eliminated. Repeat this step as many times The derailleur adjusting barrel should be turned back
as necessary until symptoms are eliminated. four full turns from fully in so that it can be turned in or
A simple double-check can be done after the com- out to loosen or tighten the inner-wire tension.
pletion of the L-screw adjustment to confirm that it is not The derailleur-control adjusting barrel should be turned
too loose. Tighten the L-screw 1/2 turn and check the back one full turn from fully in so that the rider can easily
shift. Too-tight symptoms should be obvious at this point adjust the wire tension tighter or looser while riding.
if the L-screw was set at the tightest good setting.
32 – 17
56. [ ] Set derailleur adjusting barrel so that it is 61. [ ] While pedaling, move rear-derailleur control
three full turns out from fully in, and set one position to shift chain to B cog.
derailleur-control adjusting barrel so that it is If the inner-wire tension was set correctly in step #57,
one full turn out from fully in. the chain has just shifted to the B cog. Step #62 assumes
The fourth-hand tool is a very convenient tool for that the chain is not rattling against the C cog and starts
removing inner-wire slack, but it can easily be used to make by creating that condition. If that condition exists from
the inner wire much too tight. If the inner wire is being the beginning, just perform the portion of step #62 that
tightened too much by the fourth-hand tool, it will usually loosens the adjusting barrel by 1/4-turn increments to
show up as inward motion of the derailleur parallelogram. eliminate the rattle.
Watch for this while squeezing the fourth-hand tool.
57. [ ] Using fourth-hand tool, gently pull slack
out of inner wire, being sure to stop before
derailleur begins to move.
C
It is easy for the inner wire to slip out of its groove in
the pinch mechanism while the tension is being reset. Be H
sure to check that the inner wire is in place before torquing L
the bolt/nut. If it is out of place, then the correct torque

may not keep it secure.
58. [ ] Making sure inner wire is still seated in 32.25 Turn the adjusting barrel counterclockwise to
groove in pinch mechanism, secure pinch cause the chain the rub against the C cog.
nut/bolt to 35in-lbs.
59. [ ] Put chain in H/B position and check shift 62. [ ] While pedaling, turn adjusting barrel coun-
to A cog. If shift hesitates, inner wire was terclockwise until chain begins to rattle
tightened too much in step 58. against C cog, then turn in adjusting bar-
rel by 1/4-turn increments to eliminate
Indexing adjustment rattle. NOTE: At the point where rattle is
The concept of making an index adjustment is detected, make a visual check from behind
similar to a limit-screw adjustment. There is a range of that the chain is touching the C cog.
adjustments that work, but only the tightest setting is best Steps #63 through #65 check whether there are any
because it allows the greatest amount of deterioration to too-tight symptoms when shifting the rest of the way
happen before the system becomes non-functional. The inward on the cogset (only to the Y cog) and all the way
fundamental approach to the adjustment, therefore, is to back out to the A cog. At any point a too-tight symptom
deliberately create symptoms that the inner wire is too is encountered, the adjusting barrel should be turned
tight, then loosen the adjustment by small increments until clockwise just enough to eliminate the symptom.
the symptom is eliminated. The complication comes from
the fact that when a shift is good to one cog, there may
still be symptoms of a too-tight adjustment when shifting
to another cog. Consequently, the indexing adjustment
consists of shifting into many different gear combinations
H
and loosening the index adjustment each time a too-tight L
symptom is encountered.
The index adjustment should start with the chain on Rubbing
the H chainring and the A cog. 1/4 turn
60. [ ] Shift chain to H/A with derailleur controls.
32.26 Turn adjusting barrel 1/4 turn clockwise to
In the next step, the derailleur control is used to move eliminate rattle of chain against next cog inward. Repeat
the chain to the B cog. One of three things may happen. if necessary and check in all other gear combinations.
First, the chain may fail to make the shift at all, indicating 63. [ ] Shift chain to C cog and check for rattle
that the inner-wire slack was not adequately removed in against next cog inward. Turn in cable
step #57 (which should be redone). Second, the chain will adjusting barrel by 1/4-turn increments to
complete the shift, and it is time to continue with step eliminate rattle if found.
#61. Third, the chain may shift all the way to the C cog, 64. [ ] Continue in-shifts one cog at a time, elim-
indicating that the inner wire was pulled too tight in step inating any rattles found with 1/4-turn
#57 (which should be redone). adjustments of the adjusting barrel, until the
chain is on Y cog.
32 – 18
65. [ ] Shift out one cog at a time, eliminating rat- the wire. Instead it beads up and runs off the wire. Using
tles by turning in adjusting barrel in 1/4-turn a different flux, such as StayKleen (J. W. Harris, Inc.) or
increments, until chain is on A cog. Rubyfluid (Ruby Chemical Co.), may help stainless-steel
After all gear combinations with the H chainring wires accept the solder. The best source for these special
have been checked and too-tight symptoms eliminated, flux products is a welding-supply store.
it is time to run a similar check with the chain on the L As an easier alternative to using soldering wire, con-
chainring. The difference this time is that the chain needs sider using a flux/solder paste mix (Galaxy Fluxo 50/50
to be shifted all the way to the Z cog. or similar). Apply like flux, heat until flux stops bubbling,
66. [ ] Shift chain to L with derailleur control. then wipe off while still hot. This method will work on
67. [ ] Pedal and check for chain rattling on B cog
some coated wires and stainless-steel wires that the solder-
and turn in adjusting barrel to eliminate
wire method does not work on.
rattle if found.
68. [ ] Shift chain to B cog and check for rattle Inner wire
Solder
against next cog inward. Turn in cable
adjusting barrel to eliminate rattle if found.
69. [ ] Continue in-shifts one cog at a time, elim- Solder-gun
inating any rattles found, until the chain is tip
on Z cog.
70. [ ] Shift out one cog at a time, eliminating rat-
tles by turning in adjusting barrel in 1/4-turn 32.27 Correct soldering technique.
increments, until chain is on A cog. 73. [ ] Solder inner-wire end.
If at any time during the index adjustment, symptoms Wire end caps are sometimes used instead of solder
that the cable is too loose are experienced at the same setting to prevent fraying. This will not work. Crimping the cap
that creates symptoms that the inner wire is too tight, then onto the wire frequently causes fraying. A soldered wire will
something is set up wrong, or parts are damaged, worn out, not fray when the cap is crimped on. The real function of
or not compatible. At this point, review the entire setup and the wire cap is to cover the sharp end of the wire.
refer to the troubleshooting information (page 32-30). 74. [ ] Put cap on end of inner wire if desired.
Inner-wire finish
Excess inner wire should be trimmed and finished.
Excess length is unsightly and may get caught in the chain.
Soldering prevents fraying, which allows reuse of the cable TESTING INDEX
whether a wire cap is being used or not. Wire caps do
not prevent fraying, but they do prevent someone getting
PERFORMANCE
The performance of any indexing-rear-derailleur sys-
poked by the wire.
tem can be tested and measured. The procedures described
The fourth hand is put on the inner wire to act
perviously are designed to set the indexing adjustment at
as a gauge to determine how much wire to leave. This
the tightest setting that provides good shifting. If the indexing
remainder does not need to be any more than the fourth
system has normal performance, then there are probably
hand needs to grab.
71. [ ] Put fourth-hand tool on inner wire as if looser settings for the cable that also enable shifting into
removing slack. all the gears. The range of adjusting-barrel positions, from
72. [ ] Trim inner wire with wire cutters just past the tightest that provides good shifting to the loosest that
fourth-hand tool. will allow shifting into all the gears, is called the functional
The next step suggests soldering the end of the wire. range of adjustment (or FRA).
This is easy to do and prevents fraying. To solder, a solder- The performance of all systems deteriorates with
ing gun, thin 40/60 rosin-core solder, and soldering flux are wear, a bent derailleur hanger, and the accumulation of
needed. Put flux on the inner wire. Hold the soldering-gun dirt. When the FRA is narrow, then it will take only a
tip flat against one side of the wire until the flux sizzles away. small amount of riding before service is needed to restore
Still holding the soldering-gun tip flat against one side of acceptable shifting. When the FRA is extremely narrow,
the wire, hold the tip of the solder against the other side finding a correct adjustment at all is a challenge. When the
of the wire, until the heated wire causes the solder to melt FRA is broad, it will take much longer before service is
and flow into the wire. Some wires have a coating or are needed. Consequently, it is to the rider’s and the mechanic’s
stainless steel and will not accept solder. In these cases, the advantage for the system to have a broad FRA.
wire will melt the solder, but the solder will not flow into
32 – 19
There are two reasons to measure the FRA: First, it is too loose; second, when moving the shifter one position
enables an accurate determination of whether parts might to create an out-shift and the chain unavoidably moves two
need replacement or cleaning on a used system; second, cogs, then the cable adjustment is too loose; third, if after
it permits an evaluation of whether a non-recommended completing a shift, the chain clearly is making a noise as a
part compromises indexing performance unacceptably. result of trying to shift to the next cog outward, then the
There is no absolute value for an adequate amount of cable adjustment is too loose. Before concluding that the
FRA. It varies with the brand and quality of equipment, adjustment is too loose based on chain noise after the shift,
as well as some other factors. For most systems, a FRA always look below the cogset to see that the chain is actually
of at least 3/4 turns of the cable adjusting barrel should angled out obviously from the cog it is on.
be expected of new equipment. It is not unusual to get 4. [ ] With chain on H chainring, shift chain from
something more like 4–6 quarter turns. A, to B, to C, etc., until cog Y is reached,
If evaluating properly set up used equipment that all then shift out one at a time until back to
meets manufacturer’s specifications for compatibility and A. Pedal several crank revolutions at each
cog and check for symptoms of indexing
the FRA is not at least 3/4 turn then something in the
adjustment too loose (circle result).
system needs cleaning or replacement. At 1 quarter turn in: too loose? No Yes
If evaluating any equipment, used or new, that does not At 2 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
meet manufacturer’s specifications for compatibility and At 3 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
the FRA is not at least 3/4 turn then the non-matched At 4 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
equipment probably needs to be replaced. At 5 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
If considering installing equipment in a system that At 6 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
may not be compatible, measure the FRA before the At 7 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
change and again afterward. If it is reduced, then the At 8 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
equipment change will downgrade shift performance. If it 5. [ ] With chain on L chainring, shift chain from
A, to B, to C, etc., until cog Z is reached,
is still above three quarter turns, then it may be acceptable
then shift out one at a time until back to
even though it is a downgrade of performance. This test A. Pedal several crank revolutions at each
process applies to mismatching pulley wheels, chains, cog and check for symptoms of indexing
derailleurs and shifters, cable systems, and even mismatch- adjustment too loose (circle result).
ing derailleurs with cogsets. At 1 quarter turn in: too loose? No Yes
At 2 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
MEASURING THE FUNCTIONAL At 3 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes

RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT (FRA) At 5 quarter turns in: too loose? No Yes
1. [ ] Perform an index adjustment using steps
60–65 of the INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
procedure for rear derailleurs.
6. [ ] Repeat steps 3–5 as many times as nec-
2. [ ] Mark adjusting barrel at 12:00 so turns of
essary until first symptom of indexing
adjustment can be tracked.
adjustment being too loose is encountered.
3. [ ] Turn adjusting barrel in (clockwise) 1/4 turn.
Record how many quarter turns it takes to
In the next step, a somewhat subjective evaluation of
reach this point here: ___ quarters.
whether the adjustment is too loose must be made. As the 7. [ ] If comparing performance between two
adjustment is loosened, it is normal for performance to equipment choices, install other equipment
degrade before shifting actually is unacceptable. In an in-the- and repeat steps 1–6, but record new num-
stand test, this loss of performance will be quite notice- ber of quarter turns needed to create symp-
able. It will even reach a point where a delay in releasing tom of indexing adjustment too loose in this
the shifter (after the click is reached) will be required to blank: ___ quarters.
effect the shift. For the rider on the bike, this deterioration The resulting numbers in step #6 and #7 are not the
of performance will take place gradually over a long period FRA because the last adjustment made the shifting non-
of time, without being nearly so noticeable. functional. The actual functional range of adjustment
For this reason, consider a symptom of the cable would be described as 1/4 turn less than the number in
adjustment being too loose to be any of the three following either of these steps. Thus, if the first symptom of too
things: First, when an in-shift cannot be completed except loose showed up at three quarter turns, then the FRA
by moving the shifter two positions, the cable adjustment would be two quarter turns (truly poor).
32 – 20
REAR-DERAILLEUR SERVICE sion pulley may have thinner teeth than the guide pulley,
or there may be a wear difference. If any difference can
be seen at this time, note it in step #4. If no difference
PULLEY-WHEEL REPLACEMENT can be seen now, it is still possible that a difference will
be apparent once the guide pulley is removed. There will
AND CAGE CLEANING be another opportunity to note marks or features when
The rear-derailleur cage and pulleys may need service the guide pulley is removed.
when nothing else in the rear derailleur needs service, 4. [ ] Inspect tension pulley for any marks or fea-
because of wear and the grime that builds up in this area. tures that might distinguish it from guide
This is a very simple service to do. It can be done without pulley, which is often different. Note fea-
derailleur, cable, or chain removal; usually no adjustments tures or marks here: ______________________
are required (unless they were already needed). __________________________________________
5. [ ] If bolt through guide pulley has head on
Pulley-wheel removal outer face of cage, rotate cage counter-
1. [ ] Shift chain to A/L position, then manually clockwise until bolt head is easily accessed.
drop chain off to inside of L chainring so 6. [ ] Remove bolt through guide pulley and
that chain rests on bottom-bracket shell. catch inner cage plate and guide pulley as
2. [ ] Use marker or scribe to put mark on each bolt is withdrawn from them. (Watch care-
derailleur-cage plate near bottom end so that fully for any washers that might be sand-
marks line up with each other and are both wiched between tension pulley and inner
visible from same side of derailleur cage. faces of cage plates.)
The guide pulley often has special features that enhance
shift performance. It may be marked or have features that
distinguish it from the tension pulley. The word “guide” or
letter “G” may appear on the pulley. Shimano pulleys may
have the word “Centeron” on the guide pulley, or the guide
pulley may have a white ceramic bushing and sleeve inside
the pulley. The guide pulley is likely to have thicker teeth
than the tension pulley. The guide pulley may show more
wear on the teeth than the tension pulley.
7. [ ] Inspect guide pulley for any marks or fea-
tures that might distinguish it from tension
pulley, which is often different. Note fea-
tures or marks here: ______________________
__________________________________________
Mark both cage plates Shimano pulley wheels sometimes have soft rubber
32.28 Mark both cage plates to make it easy to seals around the metal dustcaps. These seals have an
restore their correct orientation. inner and outer face, and it is not intuitive which face is
When the tension pulley is removed (if it is an after- which, so observe closely as the seals are removed. Sealed
market cartridge-bearing pulley) there is a good chance cartridge-bearing pulley wheels have a broad, flat rubber
that there are small washers between the pulley wheel and seal and no dustcap. This seal can be carefully pulled out
cage plates so that the cage plates end up correctly spaced with a seal pick so that the bearings can be cleaned and
from each other. Look carefully for these washers, as they greased. Be careful not to bend the seals. The front sides
are easy to lose and hard to replace. are black rubber, but the back faces of these seals are thin
3. [ ] Remove bolt through tension pulley (lower) metal plates that are easily bent.
from either front or back of cage and catch 8. [ ] Carefully remove any dustcaps or seals from
tension pulley as it falls out of cage. (Watch faces of pulley wheels.
carefully for any washers that might be 9. [ ] Remove any bushings from inside of pulley
sandwiched between tension pulley and wheels, noting whether bushings in guide
inner faces of cage plates.) and tension pulleys are different.
Tension pulleys and guide pulleys are often not iden- 10. [ ] Clean all parts thoroughly, including both
tical on indexing derailleurs. The word “tension” or the cage plates.
letter “T” may appear on the tension pulley. The only
difference that may be seen, at this time, is that the ten-
32 – 21
Inspection of pulley wheels the ones that are used on newer Deore XT derailleurs,
Conventional pulley wheels (with bushings) wear out which are 8-speed compatible.
two different ways and both affect shifting performance. “Upgrade” pulley wheels are marketed heavily to
the consumer. These products are promoted as having
more durable teeth and bearings and providing lower
friction. Their metal teeth often make the drivetrain
noisier. Their “sealed” bearings are prone to seizure
because of water-caused grease failure. However, their
teeth are generally more durable. Some make claims of
index compatibility, yet have none of the key features
Fresh Worn of the pulley wheels they are supposed to replace. If
32.29 A fresh guide pulley and a worn one. curious about index compatibility of pulley wheels, test
for it by using the indexing performance test described
Guide pulleys, in particular, develop tooth wear. The
earlier in this chapter (page 32-21).
teeth are normally shaped like short plateaus. As they
wear, the width of the top of the plateau is narrowed and Pulley-wheel installation
the tooth may actually develop a point on top (see figure 11. [ ] Oil bushings and inside faces of dustcaps
32.29). When there is tooth wear on the tension pulley, it lightly or stuff bearings of cartridge-bearing
is usually more on one face of the teeth than the other. pulley wheels with grease.
This often indicates a problem with chainline, hanger 12. [ ] Assemble bushings into pulley wheels and
install dustcaps and seals to each pulley
alignment, or a bent cage.
wheel.
Pulleys also wear between the bushing and the hole in 13. [ ] Treat threads in cage plate for cage bolts
the pulley. This may show up two ways. When the pulley with Loctite 222.
wheel is mounted in the cage, if it has obvious radial play 14. [ ] Hold inner plate and outer plate together and
then it is worn out. Radial play is detected by jerking the find orientation that puts marks together and
pulley wheel up and down on its pivot (see figure 32.30). visible from same side.
Also, when the pulley wheel is apart, a groove may be 15. [ ] Determine which cage plate has an
apparent in the surface of the bushing. unthreaded upper hole. Insert bolt through
upper hole, and slip guide pulley over bolt.
Radial play
(exaggerated) After torquing the cage bolt, the next step checks
whether the pulley rotates freely. If it does not rotate
freely, the bushing may have been left out or switched
between pulleys, spacing washers on cartridge-bearing
pulleys may be out of place, the dustcap or seals may be
out of place, the inner cage plate may be upside down or
facing backward, or non-compatible pulley wheels may be
in use. Failure of the pulley wheel to rotate freely is never caused
by too much torque on the bolt!
16. [ ] Line up other cage plate and thread bolt into
32.30 If the pulley wheel can be moved up and down, hole, torquing to 35in-lbs. Check that guide
the bushing and sleeve are worn out and the pulley pulley rotates freely.
should be replaced. 17. [ ] If derailleur and chain are on bike, place ten-
Cartridge-bearing pulleys fail regularly due to grease sion pulley inside loop of chain and push
failure in the bearings. If, after removing the seals, cleaning tension pulley into lower end of cage.
out the grease, and adding fresh grease, the pulley does not 18. [ ] Line up lower holes of cage plates and ten-
sion pulley and insert bolt through holes.
turn smoothly on its bearing, it should be replaced.
19. [ ] Thread in lower bolt and torque to 35in-lbs.
Replacement of pulley wheels Check that tension pulley rotates freely.
Always replace pulley wheels with original equipment. There is often a keeper tab on one or both of the
Even simple brand-matching may not be enough. For cage plates that helps keep the chain inside the cage. When
example, an older Shimano Deore XT derailleur for use assembling the cage, it is possible to get the chain stuck
with 7-speed cogsets has pulley wheels that are fatter than outside this keeper tab. In the next step, check that the
chain goes straight from the front of the guide pulley to
32 – 22
around the back and bottom of the tension pulley, without
interfering with any parts of the cage plates.
Cage-pivot housing
20. [ ] If derailleur and chain are installed, back-
pedal briefly and observe that chain runs
over pulley wheels and through cage with-
Cage-stop pin 4
out interference. 2
(fixed)
21. [ ] If pulley wheels were replaced, check limit
screws and indexing adjustment.
3
SHIMANO PIVOT SERVICE AND
SPRING ADJUSTMENTS 1
It is important to service the mounting pivot and
cage pivot because dirt and lack of internal lubrication
can severely handicap derailleur performance. The sealed
nature of the pivots makes it pointless to try to flush the Hex-socket cage-retaining bolt
mechanism with solvent and inject lubricant without disas-
32.32 Blow-up of a typical Shimano derailleur with a
sembling the pivots. Additionally, disassembling the cage cage-retaining bolt accessed from the bottom side of the
pivot allows changing the cage-spring tension, which is cage-pivot housing.
useful when mounting the derailleur to an unconventional
derailleur hanger (or other special circumstances).
Over the decades there have been more models of Cage-pivot housing
derailleur made than anyone could ever remember. Many 4
of them are still in use. Most of them require different

2
techniques to service. It is not practical to write compre- 1
hensive instructions on disassembling and servicing rear 3
derailleurs. The following procedure is suitable for a variety
of modern Shimano derailleurs, which are both dominant
in the market and somewhat consistent to each other.
Cage-pivot bolt
Study figures 32.31, 32.32, and 32.33 before proceeding.
Cage-stop pin
Phillips screw 1 Cage-stop pin 32.33 Blow-up of a typical Shimano derailleur with a
cage-mounting bolt accessed from the front of the cage-
pivot housing.
Cage-pivot housing
Disassembling the cage pivot
3 The procedure assumes that the cage plates are sepa-
4
rated and the pulley wheels are removed, which is covered
2 earlier in this chapter (page 32-21).
1. The derailleur may have one of several con-
figurations. Either there is a cage-stop
screw in the face of the outer cage plate
immediately adjacent to the cage-pivot
housing or the cage stop is a fixed pin that
does not unscrew.
[ ] If cage-stop screw is fit by a Phillips
screwdriver, wind derailleur cage slightly
counterclockwise and unscrew Phillips screw.
[ ] If there was no Phillips screw in face of
outer cage plate, look for 2mm hex-socket
set screw recessed in bottom side of cage-
pivot housing and remove screw completely.
32.31 Blow-up of a typical Shimano derailleur with a
cage-mounting screw accessed from the back side of 2. Cage and derailleur body will separate in one of
the cage-pivot housing. three ways:
32 – 23
[ ] If there is a hex-socket bolt head in hole 8. [ ] Find clip that engages groove in mounting bolt
in outward end of cage-pivot housing, turn on back side of mounting pivot and insert tip
bolt counterclockwise to remove it. of small screwdriver between clip and mount-
[ ] If cage-stop pin was unthreaded from face ing bolt to prepare to pry clip out of groove.
of outer cage plate but there is no hole in out- 9. [ ] With screwdriver in place and ready to pry
ward end of cage-pivot housing, look on back out clip, drape rag over hand and derailleur
side of cage pivot housing for small Phillips so that parts will be trapped inside rag when
screw accessible just past edge of cage plate. clip is pried out.
[ ] If cage-stop pin did not thread out of 10. [ ] Pry out clip.
cage plate, look for 2mm hex-socket screw 11. [ ] If plate and spring did not pop off when clip
to thread out of bottom side of cage-pivot was removed, pull out on plate and allow to
housing. When this is removed, cage can be unwind clockwise.
pulled away from back side of housing, at Shimano mounting-pivot springs are not symmetrical.
which time it will unwind. One end fits in the housing and the other end fits in the
[ ] If cage-stop pin is not removable and mounting plate. The difference is not obvious, but the
there is no Phillips screw accessible from illustrations below should make it clear. The end that has
back, no bolt head accessible from front
the spring leg set in from the full diameter of the spring
face of cage pivot housing, or no 2mm hex-
socket screw accessible from bottom side of never goes into a pivot housing.
cage-pivot housing, then cage-pivot assem- 12. [ ] Remove plate, seals, and spring from back
bly cannot be serviced. side of mounting-pivot housing, noting
which end of spring was inserted in housing.
There are usually two holes in the cage plate that the cage-
Full diameter Reduced diameter
pivot spring can engage in. Looked at from the outer face of
the cage plate, the more clockwise hole is the normal position
that creates the lower spring tension. The more counterclock-
wise hole creates an optional high-tension setting.
3. [ ] Remove cage from derailleur and observe
which hole cage-pivot spring engaged in
outer plate. Which hole? ________________ Into pivot housing Out of pivot housing
4. [ ] Remove any seals from cage-pivot housing 32.34 The end of the spring that goes in the housing
or face of cage plate. is on the left. The spring end shown on the right never
5. [ ] Remove spring from cage-pivot housing, not- goes into the housing.
ing which end of spring inserts into housing. 13. [ ] Remove mounting bolt from front of
Disassembling the mounting pivot mounting-pivot housing.
The B-screw will get in the way of manipulating the Cleaning and lubrication
mounting plate when re-assembling the mounting pivot. 14. [ ] Soak derailleur and parts in solvent, then
It should be removed now but measured first, in which scrub with stiff brush to remove all dirt and
case the setting was correct and should be restored. Use grease. Dry thoroughly.
a depth gauge to measure from either end of the screw 15. [ ] Grease springs, cage-pivot stud in outer cage
to the face of the tab into which it is threaded. plate, and smooth shaft of mounting bolt.
6. [ ] Measure length of B-screw protruding from 16. [ ] Oil parallelogram pivots, pinch-mechanism
plate on back of mounting pivot and record threads, and adjusting-barrel threads.
here so that B-screw can be removed and Assembling the mounting pivot
installed without having to readjust. NOTE: See figure 32.35 on page 32-25 for illustra-
B-screw protrusion: _____mm tion of steps 17–21.
7. [ ] Remove B-screw from plate on back of mount- 17. [ ] Place hex key securely in vise with end
ing pivot and pull off any plastic cover. pointing up, and place mounting bolt upside
In steps #8 through #10, the clip that holds the down on hex key.
pivot assembly together is removed. The assembly is 18. [ ] Install any seals in outer face of mounting-
spring-loaded and prone to blowing apart once the clip pivot housing and slip derailleur (outer-face
is removed. The clip itself is prone to flying a long distance down) over mounting bolt.
when it is removed. To prevent this, the removal is done 19. [ ] Insert spring into mounting-pivot housing
with a rag draped over the derailleur and tools, so that and engage end of spring in hole. Make sure
that end of spring with reduced-diameter coil
everything will be trapped if the parts try to fly.
is facing out of mounting-pivot housing.
32 – 24
23. [ ] Holding mounting plate down, rotate derail-
leur clockwise until tab on mounting plate
stops against tab on outside of mounting-
Mounting plate pivot housing.
24. [ ] Carefully pull up mounting plate with pliers so
Seal
that tab on outside of mounting-pivot housing
can rotate clockwise past tab on mounting
Mounting-pivot spring plate, then push mounting plate back in.
25. [ ] Insert clip in groove in mounting bolt.
In the next step, the B-screw position is restored. If
it was not recorded or correct to start with, thread the
B-screw in just enough to engage the threads. It will be
adjusted when the derailleur is installed and adjusted.
26. [ ] Put any plastic cover over mounting plate
and thread in B-screw until protrusion equals
measurement in step 6.
Assembling the cage pivot
27. [ ] Insert spring into cage-pivot housing and
engage end of spring in hole. Make sure that
end of spring with reduced-diameter coil is
facing out of cage-pivot housing.
Mounting bolt 28. [ ] Put seal in place on outer face of outer plate
or on inward end of cage-pivot housing.
29. [ ] Place outer cage pivot into hole in cage-pivot
housing.
Hex key Vise Which cage hole the spring engaged should have been
recorded in step #3. Facing the outer face of the outer
cage plate, the most clockwise hole is the normal position
that provides less tension for the cage-return spring. The
32.35 Assembling the mounting pivot. most counterclockwise hole provides a high-tension set-
20. [ ] Put seal in place between mounting plate ting for the return spring that compensates for age, small
and mounting-pivot housing. cogsets, and non-standard derailleur-hanger designs.
21. [ ] Place mounting plate over bolt and engage 30. [ ] Rotate cage plate to align desired hole with
end of spring in hole in mounting plate. end of spring and engage plate to spring.
31. [ ] Push outer cage plate firmly to end of cage-
pivot housing.
32. [ ] Except models where removal of 2mm hex-
socket bolt disengaged cage from derailleur
body, insert small Phillips screw from back,
or cage-pivot bolt from front, to retain cage
to derailleur body.
32.36 Loading the mounting-pivot spring.

22. [ ] Using pliers to hold mounting plate by the
tab that B-screw threads into, press mount-
ing plate down until it is against upper end
of mounting-pivot housing.
32 – 25
The two cage-attachment systems are easily identified
by looking at the back side of the cage. If there is a bolt
going through the cage into the cage-pivot housing, then
the correct steps to use are labeled bolt-on cage, but if
there is a C-clip in a stud on the back face of the cage, then
Rotate the correct steps to use are labeled clip-on cage.
Hold stationary counterclockwise
Campagnolo cage-pivot disassembly
NOTE: Use PULLEY-WHEEL REPLACEMENT AND CAGE
CLEANING procedure on page 32-21 for pulley
removal before proceeding.
1. [ ] Inspect back face of cage to find bolt with
hex-socket or stud with C-clip on its end.
2. [ ] Inspect for B-screw located in cage pivot.
If it is found here, count turns while turning
32.37 Winding up the cage-tension spring. it clockwise until it stops and record count
here: ______turns. Remove B-screw fully.
33. [ ] Holding derailleur so that outer face is 3. [ ] Bolt-on cage only: Grasp cage and derailleur
visible, rotate outer cage plate counter- body in one hand so they cannot separate
clockwise until cage-stop pin or mounting once bolt is removed, then use 5mm hex
hole for cage-stop screw clears tab on out- key to unthread bolt (bolt remains in cage
side of cage-pivot housing. If cage-stop pin assembly).
is still fixed to cage plate, cage plate will Clip-on cage only: Grasp cage and derailleur
need to be pulled away from cage-pivot body in one hand so they cannot separate
housing just enough to allow cage-stop pin once bolt is removed, then remove clip and
to clear tab on cage-pivot housing. washer that is below clip.
34. [ ] Thread in cage stop pin or 2mm hex- 4. [ ] Carefully allow cage to separate from derail-
socket screw into hole in bottom of cage- leur body and unwind.
pivot housing. 5. [ ] Pull cage assembly (including spring) out of
derailleur body.
SRAM PIVOT SERVICE AND 6. [ ] Separate spring from cage assembly, noting
which hole cage-end of spring engaged.
SPRING ADJUSTMENTS 7. [ ] Bolt-on cage only: Remove washer from end
of cage-pivot bolt, then remove bolt from
Most SRAM rear derailleurs have a cage pivot similar
cage-pivot sleeve.
to the Shimano design shown in figure 32.33 on page 32-
8. [ ] Standard B-screw only: Check if cage-pivot
23. Use the procedure on page 32-23 to service the cage cover separates from cage easily, then
pivot. SRAM derailleurs do not have a mechanism in the remove cover if it does separate easily.
mounting pivot that moves when the derailleur operates, Cage B-screw only: Remove toothed plate
so no service is needed in the mounting pivot. from bottom end of cage-pivot sleeve.
Campagnolo mounting-pivot disassembly
CAMPAGNOLO PIVOT SERVICE 9. [ ] Inspect for B-screw located in mounting pivot.
If it is found here, count turns while turning it
AND SPRING ADJUSTMENTS clockwise until it stops and record count here:
Campagnolo rear derailleurs made from 1998–2003 are _____turns. Remove B-screw fully.
generally similar in design. However, there are two variations 10. [ ] Inspect holes in tension plate (on back face
of where the B-screw is located, and there are two variations of mounting pivot) to determine into which
of how the cage is fixed to the cage pivot. hole a spring leg is inserted and record here:
When there is not a B-screw in the usual location on clockwise hole___ counterclockwise hole___
the mounting pivot, look for a B-screw in the derailleur 11. [ ] Remove clip from mounting bolt. NOTE:
Keep rag over assembly while prying out clip
cage, immediately adjacent to the cage-pivot housing. In
to prevent spring-loaded parts from flying
the following steps, when there are variations in procedure out and causing injury or becoming lost.
to the B-screw location, there are labels on sub-steps with 12. [ ] Remove tension plate and spring from
the notations standard B-screw or cage B-screw. mounting-pivot housing.
32 – 26
Campagnolo cleaning and lubrication 30. [ ] With body still in position described in pre-
vious step, rotate cage counterclockwise
13. [ ] Clean all parts in solvent and dry thoroughly
with rags and compressed air. approximately 3/4 turn until protrusion on
14. [ ] Coat all internal parts with light grease face of cage just clears protrusion on back
(except threads). end of cage-pivot housing, then press cage
15. [ ] Treat pulley-wheel bolts and cage-pivot-bolt assembly fully into cage-pivot housing.
threads with Loctite 242. 31. [ ] Bolt-on cage only: Use 5mm hex key to
16. [ ] Drip oil into parallelogram pivots. thread in cage bolt, then secure to 60in-lbs.
Clip-on cage only: Place washer over stud,
Campagnolo mounting-pivot assembly then install C-clip into slot in stud.
17. [ ] Place 5mm hex key in vise with end pointing 32.[ ] Cage B-screw only: Thread B-screw in fully,
up, then place mounting bolt onto hex key. then back out number of turns recorded in
18. [ ] Place mounting-pivot housing over bolt step 2.
(derailleur front-face down). NOTE: Use PULLEY-WHEEL REPLACEMENT AND CAGE
19. [ ] Install spring into mounting-pivot housing CLEANING procedure on page 32-21 for pulley
into so spring leg engages only hole (spring installation, except install pulleys in accordance
is symmetrical). with rotational-direction arrows that may be
20. [ ] Place mounting-pivot tension plate (smaller- found on some pulleys.
diameter-end first) over mounting bolt, then
rotate to engage spring leg in hole recorded
in step 10.
21. [ ] Grasp protrusion on top face of tension plate
with needle-nose pliers.
DERAILLEUR-HANGER
22. [ ] Rotate derailleur body clockwise just until
triangular protrusion on mounting-pivot
REPAIR
housing clears tab hanging down from ten-
sion plate, then use needle-nose pliers to
press tension plate down until C-clip groove
THREAD CHASING
Derailleur-hanger threads may be fouled with con-
in mounting bolt is exposed.
23. [ ] Install C-clip into groove. taminants or cross-threaded, leading to difficult installation
24. [ ] Standard B-screw only: Install B-screw of the derailleur-mounting bolt. To solve either, use a tap
fully, then back out screw number of turns of the correct size (usually 10 × 1mm) from the back side
recorded in step 9. of the hanger to clean out the threads.
Campagnolo cage-pivot disassembly
25. [ ] Cage B-screw only: Install toothed ring (large- THREAD REPLACEMENT
face first) onto cage pivot, then rotate ring so There are several brands of thread-replacement coils.
toothed section engages protrusion on face These work by enlarging the hole, tapping the hole to an
of cage from which B-screw was removed.
oversize-thread description, and then using a tool that
Standard B-screw only: If cage-pivot-housing
comes with the coil kit to insert a wire coil that matches
cap was removed from cage, install cap
(cupped-face up) to cage pivot and align the new thread description on the outside and creates a
spring hole in cap with spring hole in cage. new set of original threads on the inside. The instructions
26. [ ] Bolt-on cage only: Install bolt through cage that come with the kit should be adequate and should
pivot and place washer on top of bolt threads. differ depending on the brand of thread-repair kit being
27. [ ] Install spring (symmetrical) over cage pivot used. The following steps are generic and may not exactly
and engage spring leg to hole closest to bolt match the brand of kit being used.
hole for upper pulley wheel. 1. [ ] Drill or ream hole in hanger to 13/32"
28. [ ] Insert cage assembly into cage-pivot housing diameter.
of derailleur body and engage spring leg into 2. [ ] Tap hole with oversize tap provided with kit.
only hole in housing. 3. [ ] Treat hole threads with heaviest grade of
29. [ ] Orient assembly so it is being viewed from Loctite available.
front and body is in its normal position. 4. [ ] Use tool that comes in kit to thread in coil
Check that end of cage points somewhere from outer face of dropout, until end of coil
between 3:00 and 6:00. If not, spring is is flush with outer face of hanger.
installed in wrong hole in cage or is not in 5. [ ] Remove coil-insertion tool.
any hole.
32 – 27
6. [ ] Use diagonal side cutter to clip off excess familiar with all the details of proper setup and adjustment
coil length on back side of hanger. as they are done on conventional derailleurs.
7. [ ] Allow Loctite to cure before installing and
securing derailleur. RAPID-RISE PROCEDURES
Derailleur, cable, and chain installation
SLEEVE INSERTS 1. [ ] Align hanger, lubricate derailleur, and install.
Sleeve inserts to repair damaged hanger threads are 2. [ ] With derailleur at rest under Z cog, pull
sleeve nuts that go into an enlarged hanger hole. At the down on derailleur cage to allow upper pul-
time of this writing, the primary product available is the ley to clear cog, then preset L-screw so pul-
Wheels Manufacturing Dropout Saver (DS-1 and DS-2). ley is centered under cog.
When a sleeve insert is used, the hanger is basically being 3. [ ] Pull outward on derailleur to move upper pul-
ley under A cog, then check if pulley stops
sandwiched between a nut on the inside face of the hanger
centered under cog and preset H-screw as
and the derailleur on the outside face. The sleeve inserts necessary.
are effective. The worst problem with them is a tendency 4. [ ] With upper pulley pulled out to A cog and
to disappear when someone unfamiliar with the repair parallelogram positioned parallel to chain
removes the derailleur at a later time. To perform the stay, size housing loop to rear derailleur.
repair, the old threads should be drilled or reamed out to 5. [ ] With derailleur at rest position under Z cog
15/32" diameter. The sleeve nut should be installed from (pull down on cage if upper pulley catches
the back side. Loctite RC680 can be used to reduce the against outer face of cog), install cable sys-
likelihood of the sleeve nut falling out when the derailleur tem, pull slack out of cable with fingers,
is not mounted, but this is no guarantee. then secure pinch mechanism.
6. [ ] Using shift mechanism, move derailleur so
The nut should be held with a cone wrench while the
upper pulley is under A cog, then install and
derailleur-mounting bolt is being secured or loosened. size chain normally.
Limit screw and indexing adjustments
HANGER REPLACEMENT 7. [ ] To set H-screw, use shifters to put chain
A number of brands of bikes with aluminum drop- in Z/H combo, then pull on exposed wire to
outs now have replaceable hangers. These are entirely shift chain from B to A cog. Adjust limit nor-
brand specific and cannot be used on any frame except mally, but pull on cable to check shift to A
the original one for which they were designed. They are instead of releasing cable.
usually held in place by small screws or bolts. The threads 8. [ ] To set L-screw, use shifters to put chain in
should be prepared with Loctite 222 or 242. Z/M combo (Z/L if double chainring), then pull
on exposed wire to shift chain from Z to Y
cog. Adjust limit normally, but release cable
to check shift to Z (instead of pulling cable).
SHIMANO RAPID-RISE Setting the cable tension and adjusting the indexing
are where the most significant differences between Rapid-
DERAILLEURS Rise and conventional derailleurs are found. Everything
involving the cable is exactly reversed with Rapid-Rise.
OVERVIEW Consequently, the slack is removed when the chain is on
the Z cog instead of the A cog. Less obvious is the fact
Shimano Rapid-Rise rear derailleurs differ from others
that when the indexing is adjusted, the adjusting barrel
in that they move outward when the cable is pulled and
should always be turned the opposite way from normal
move inward by means of the parallelogram spring when
to correct any symptom.
the cable tension is released. Their motion is the opposite 9. [ ] Use shifter to put chain on Z cog, then pull
of conventional derailleurs. on exposed inner wire while pedaling until
For many purposes, these derailleurs are no different to chain reaches A cog, then stop pedaling and
install, adjust, or service than regular derailleurs, but some of stress cable system.
the sequences in which things are done need to be changed 10. [ ] Pedal until chain returns to Z cog, then
to make the procedures easier. The following procedure is release pinch mechanism, set adjusting bar-
very generalized for the purpose of illustrating the correct rels, pull slack from inner wire, and secure
sequence to go through derailleur setup and adjustment. pinch mechanism.
The assumption of this procedure is that you are already
32 – 28
As always, the best indexing adjustment is the tight-
est good setting. With Rapid-Rise, however, the tightest
good adjustment is one just short of the point at which
the chain tends to shift outward one cog if the cable is
tightened further (opposite of normal).
11. [ ] Adjust indexing to tightest good setting, turn-
ing adjusting barrel out (counterclockwise) to
improve shifts outward and in (clockwise) to
improve shifts inward (opposite of adjusting
conventional derailleur).
8-, 9-, & 10-SPEED

COMPATIBILITY
Shimano 8/9-speed compatibility
Because nine-speed derailleurs have the same
actuation ratio (the amount the derailleur moves for a
specific amount of inner-wire travel) as derailleurs that
are not nine-speed, they are technically acceptable to
mix. However, on MTB derailleurs, Shimano made other
changes coincidental with introducing nine-speed systems
that also affect interchangeability. The primary concern is
the derailleur capacity. Many Shimano nine-speed MTB
derailleurs work with up to a 34T rear cog. Most pre-
nine-speed derailleurs have a maximum capacity of 32T.
Consequently, if the bike has a nine-speed cogset with a
34T cog, a nine-speed derailleur must be used. Otherwise,
there are no derailleur-compatibility issues.
When replacing pulley wheels, it is important to be
aware that there are nine-speed-specific pulleys. The
significant difference is not the thickness of the pulley
but the number of teeth. Using a pulley wheel with the
wrong number of teeth can adversely affect the maximum-
cog-size capacity and the maximum total capacity of the
derailleur. If the teeth numbers match, the pulleys are
generally compatible.
Campagnolo 8/9/10-speed compatibility
Campagnolo rear derailleurs are compatible with
cogsets with fewer gears than the designation of the
derailleur, as long as the chain matches the derailleur. For
example, a 10-speed rear derailleur with a 10-speed chain
will work on a 9-speed or 8-speed cassette. A 9-speed rear
derailleur with a 9-speed chain will work on an 8-speed
cassette. The Ergopower shifter must always match the
number of gears on the cassette, regardless of the rear-
derailleur rating. Campagnolo says that 2001–2003 9-speed
rear derailleurs are not compatible with pre-2001 9-speed
Ergopower shifters.
32 – 29
REAR-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING (table 32-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The shift to the A cog is slow.
The H-screw is too tight. Loosen H-screw; look for rapid improvement
if the H-screw is the source of the problem.
If the H-screw is not too tight, then the inner-wire ten- Turn in an adjusting barrel or let more inner
sion may be too tight. wire through the pinch mechanism; expect
instant improvement if inner-wire tension was
the source of the problem.
If none of above, the B-screw may be too tight or the Check B-screw adjustment and chain length.
chain may be too short, causing the guide pulley to be Try setting chain at longest length that works
too far below the A cog. to attempt to eliminate symptom.
If none of the above, the cable system may have too Check for poor cable routing, housing dam-
much friction. age, inner-wire damage, inner-wire rust, dirt
on inner wires, or lack of lubrication.
If none of the above, the guide pulley may be worn out. Check guide-pulley teeth and bushing for
wear.
If none of the above, the chain may be worn out. Check chain wear.
If none of the above, dirt may be fouling the cage and/or Disassemble, clean, and lubricate the derail-
mounting pivot, the return spring, or the parallelogram leur.
pivots causing the guide pulley to track too low below
the cogset or the parallelogram to be hesitant to return
to its outermost position.
If none of the above, the derailleur may have too little Try installing a spring over the inner wire
return-spring force to pull the inner wire through the between the rear-derailleur adjusting barrel
housing bends. This is most likely if the derailleur and and the pinch mechanism. Use a compres-
shifter are not brand- and model-matched. sion spring 1.75" long, with a 3/8" diameter
and .035 wire gauge (or larger).
Old-style Campagnolo pulley wheels with low-profile Change pulley wheels to Shimano type.
teeth are being used with a new-style low-profile
chain that does not have side plates extending above
the rollers.
SYMPTOM: There is excessive noise when the chain is on the A cog.
If the guide pulley is offset inward of the A cog, then Check guide-pulley position, then loosen
H-screw or inner-wire tension is too tight. H-screw and/or inner-wire tension.
If the guide pulley is offset outward of the A cog, then Check guide-pulley position, then tighten
H-screw is too loose. H-screw.
If the guide pulley is close to centered under the A cog, Check chainline and chain/cogset compatibility.
check if the chain is rubbing against the B cog where
the top section of chain goes forward to the chainrings.
If this is the case, then the chainline is off or the chain
is a wide chain being used on a narrow-spaced cogset.
SYMPTOM: The chain shifts past the A cog when shifting from the B cog.
The H-screw is too loose. Tighten the H-screw until the symptom goes
away.
If tightening the H-screw creates the symptom that the B-screw adjustment is too tight, chain is too
H-screw is too tight before the original symptom goes short, or the mounting and cage pivots are
away, the guide pulley is too far below the cog. fouled with dirt.
Continued
32 – 30
REAR-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING (table 32-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The shift to the Z cog is slow.
The L-screw is too tight. Loosen the L-screw 1/4 turn at a time.
If derailleur is indexing and the symptom only occurs Rapid improvement should happen with very lit-
when using the derailleur control, inner-wire tension tle adjustment. Tighten inner-wire tension with
is too loose. the adjusting barrel.
The chain is on the H chainring. The shift combination should be avoided.
SYMPTOM: There is excessive noise when the chain is on the Z cog.
If the guide pulley appears offset inward of the Z Tighten the L-screw.
cog, the L-screw is too loose.
If the guide pulley appears offset outward of the Z Loosen the L-screw.
cog, the L-screw is too tight.
If the guide pulley appears somewhat centered under Tighten the B-screw.
the Z cog, then the B-screw may be too loose.
If the B-screw cannot be tightened enough to elimi- Check if the chain can be shortened without
nate the symptom, the chain may be too long. creating a too-short condition.
If the B-screw cannot be tightened enough, the chain Check derailleur capacity.
cannot be shortened, and adjusting the L-screw is no
help, the maximum-cog-size capacity of the derailleur
may have been exceeded.
SYMPTOM: The chain shifts past the Z cog when shifting from the Y cog
The L-screw is too loose. Tighten the L-screw.
If the guide pulley appears far below the Z cog and Loosen the B-screw.
tightening the L-screw creates a slow shift, the B-
screw is too tight.
If loosening the B-screw does not move the guide Use cogset with larger cogs, change derailleur, or
pulley reasonably close to the cog, then the derailleur try changing the spring tension in the cage pivot.
is being used on a cogset smaller than was intended.
SYMPTOM: Some or all in-shifts are slow (rear derailleur is indexing).
Inner-wire tension is too low. Turn adjusting barrel out.
Guide pulley is worn out. Check guide-pulley teeth and bushing for wear.
Chain is worn out. Check chain for wear and replace if necessary.
SYMPTOM: Some or all out-shifts are slow (rear derailleur is indexing).
Inner-wire tension is too high. Turn adjusting barrel in.
Guide pulley is worn out. Check guide-pulley teeth and bushing for wear.
Chain is worn out. Check chain for wear and replace if necessary.
Excess cable-system friction. Check for poor cable routing, housing damage,
inner-wire damage, inner-wire rust, dirt on inner
wires, or lack of lubrication.
If symptom is progressively worse as the chain is Check for too-tight B-screw, too short a chain,
shifted further and further out, the guide pulley may or dirt in the cage and mounting pivots. Correct
be too far below the cogs. any problem found.
Continued
32 – 31

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The chain moves out two positions when the derailleur control is moved one position.
Inner-wire tension is too low. Turn adjusting barrel further out or pull more inner
wire through the pinch mechanism (if the adjusting
barrel is running out of threads).
Derailleur control is not compatible with derailleur Check component compatibility and test shift again
and/or cogset. after replacing any suspect components.
The derailleur control had already been released Recheck the shift.
one position when chain wasn’t moving, so it had
actually been moved two positions.
SYMPTOM: The chain moves in two positions when the derailleur control is moved one position.
Inner-wire tension is too high. Turn adjusting barrel further in or release more
inner wire through the pinch mechanism (if the
adjusting barrel is running out of threads).
The derailleur control had already been moved one Recheck the shift.
position when the chain was not moving, so it had
actually been moved two positions.
SYMPTOM: The chain will not move inward to the next gear when the derailleur control is moved
one position, or the derailleur control must be moved two positions to get the chain to move
inward one position.
Inner-wire tension is too low. Turn adjusting barrel further out or pull more inner
wire through the pinch mechanism (if the adjusting
barrel is running out of threads).
Chain is badly worn out. Check chain wear.
Chain and cogs are not compatible. Check manufacturer’s chain recommendations.
SYMPTOM: With an indexing rear derailleur, the chain makes noise against the next cog inward after
an in-shift to a specific cog but not after making an out-shift to the same cog.
Excess cable-system friction. Check for poor cable routing, housing damage,
inner-wire damage, inner-wire rust, dirt on inner
wires, or lack of lubrication.
Excess friction in the derailleur control caused by Test by temporarily installing a different derailleur
wear, dirt, or lack of lubrication. control. Service the derailleur control if the test
eliminates the symptom.
Continued
32 – 32

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: At one cable-tension adjustment, the shifting acts as though the cable is too tight for some
shifts but acts as though the cable is too loose for other shifts.
Excess cable-system friction. Check for poor cable routing, housing damage, inner-
wire damage, inner-wire rust, dirt on inner wires, or lack
of lubrication.
Incorrect inner wire for derailleur control. Check inner-wire compatibility.
Distance from face of derailleur hanger to Reduce axle spacing to move first cog as close as possible
face of first cog is too great. to the dropout without chain-to-frame interference.
General system congestion from dirt. Clean cogs, chain, inside and outside of derailleur, and
inside derailleur control.
General component incompatibility. Check that derailleur control, derailleur, and cogset are all
compatible.
General system wear. Check chain wear, guide-pulley wear, and derailleur-pivot
wear.
SYMPTOM: The chain shifts out one position on its own when the derailleur control is not being operated.
If derailleur is indexing, inner-wire tension Check and adjust inner-wire tension by turning adjusting
is too low. barrel out.
If derailleur is friction-type, shift-lever fric- Adjust shift-lever friction.
tion is too light.
SYMPTOM: When testing the FRA, the acceptable range is very narrow.
Parts are dirty. Clean drivetrain, derailleur, and derailleur control.
Parts are worn out. Check chain wear, guide-pulley wear, or derailleur-pivot wear.
Excess cable-system friction. Check for poor cable routing, housing damage, inner-
wire damage, inner-wire rust, dirt on inner wires, or lack
of lubrication.
Non-compatible chain is being used. Check chain compatibility.
Non-compatible guide pulley is being used. Use only manufacturer’s original pulley.
Non-compatible cable system is being used. Use only high-quality indexing inner wires of the correct
diameter and compressionless housing.
Derailleur control is not compatible with Check manufacturer’s specifications for compatible com-
derailleur or cogset. ponents.
32 – 33
33 – FRONT DERAILLEURS
Pinch mechanism
Limit screws
Parallelogram
arms
Nose
il
Ta
Outer cage plate
Inner cage plate
NAMING COG AND GEAR COMBINATIONS 33 – 2
COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY 33 – 4
UNDERSTANDING HOW FRONT DERAILLEURS WORK 33 – 6
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 33 – 10
TESTING INDEX PERFORMANCE 33 – 19
MEASURING THE FUNCTIONAL RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT (FRA) 33 – 19
FRONT-DERAILLEUR SERVICE 33 – 20
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING 33 – 20
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER screwed in and out, the relative length or tension of the
cable system is changed.
This chapter is about installing, adjusting, and
Bottom gear: Same as low gear.
servicing front derailleurs. The procedures for instal-
Bottom-pull derailleur: A derailleur that is operated
lation and adjustment make references to installing the
by a cable that comes from below the derailleur (generally
chain, shifter, and cable. These items are covered in the
from below the bottom-bracket shell).
CHAINS, DERAILLEUR CONTROLS, and DERAILLEUR-CABLE
Bottom-swing derailleur: A design that positions
SYSTEMS chapters.
the derailleur cage below the derailleur clamp. May be
The front derailleur procedure assumes that the rear
called normal or traditional (see figure 33.1 for example).
derailleur is already installed. The rear derailleur need not
See top-swing derailleur for opposite configuration.
be precisely adjusted but must be able to move the chain
Cage or plate nose: The front end of the derailleur
to the innermost and outermost cogs. It may seem like
cage or of one of the cage plates.
a good idea to install and adjust the rear derailleur first,
Cage or plate tail: The rear end of the derailleur
because of this. However, the rear-derailleur procedure
cage or of one of the cage plates.
requires that the front derailleur be able to shift the chain
Derailleur cage: The assembly that surrounds and
to the innermost and outermost positions, as well. Which-
moves the chain.
ever is done first, to complete one derailleur adjustment
Down-shift: This is a term that will not be used,
it is necessary to do at least some preliminary work on
because it too is imprecise.
the other derailleur.
E-type derailleur: A derailleur that includes a
There is some confusing and contradictory termi-
mounting bracket that attaches between the bottom
nology used regarding derailleurs, so be sure to review
bracket and the right end of the bottom-bracket shell.
the terminology section to become clear on the terms
E-type derailleurs generally have fixed height and rota-
used by this book.
tional alignment.
H-screw: A limit screw for stopping the derailleur
from shifting the chain out past the outermost chainring.
GENERAL INFORMATION High gear: On front derailleurs, high gear refers
to the chainring furthest from the frame. It is called
high gear because using it results in the highest number
TERMINOLOGY when calculating gear ratios, not because the top of this
Pinch mechanism chainring is higher than the other chainrings (as is com-
Limit screws monly assumed). These two explanations of the term are
consistent with each other but if this same system is used
with rear gears it can be confusing. For this reason, this
book will always use the more wordy alternative outermost
Parallelogram chainring or a letter code that is described in NAMING COGS
arms AND GEAR COMBINATIONS (page 33-2).
Nose
In-shift: A shift to a chainring that is further inward
than the one that the chain is currently on.
Indexing: The type of shifting in which the shift
il mechanism moves in distinct increments. These increments
Ta
Outer cage plate are designed to precisely move the chain from one chainring
Inner cage plate to the next. Indexing has virtually replaced friction shifting.
33.1 Back and face views of a front derailleur. In friction shifting, the lever moves smoothly over its full
range of motion without any incremental stops. It is up to
Adjusting barrel: A hollow screw in the derailleur
the operator to decide what the correct amount of lever
control (and rarely, in the derailleur) that the inner wire
motion is to get from one chainring to the next.
passes through and the housing stops against. As it is
33 – 1
Inner plate: The plate in the derailleur cage that is Under-shift: When the chain does not move far
on the inward side of the chain. enough to shift to and align with the intended chainring.
Innermost chainring: The one that has the least Up-shift: This is a term that will not be used, because
teeth and is closest to the frame. it is an imprecise phrase.
L-screw: A limit screw for stopping the derailleur
from shifting the chain in past the innermost chainring.
Limit screws: Adjustable stops that are used to NAMING COGS AND GEAR
stop the inward and outward motion of the derailleur at COMBINATIONS
points that enable the chain to shift to the innermost and To perform certain adjustments, the chain needs to
outermost chainrings without going too far. be in certain gear combinations. Numbering the gears to
Low gear: On front derailleurs, low gear refers to the identify them does not work, because rear cogsets have
chainring closest to the frame. It is called low gear because between 5 and 10 gears (so the innermost could be called
using it results in the lowest number when calculating gear 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10) and cranksets have between 1 and 3
ratios, not because the top of this chainring is lower than chainrings (so the innermost might be called 1, 2, or 3).
the other chainrings (as is commonly assumed). These To avoid confusion, gears will be assigned codes as
two explanations of the term are consistent with each shown in figures 33.2 and 33.3 (below).
other, but if this same system is used with rear gears it Z
can be confusing. For this reason this book will always Y
use the more wordy alternative innermost chainring or a
letter code that is described in NAMING COGS AND GEAR
COMBINATIONS. B
A
Mounting bolt: This is the bolt through the derailleur 33.2 The outermost cog is always A. The next-to-
clamp that attaches the derailleur to the seat tube. outermost cog is always B. The next-to-innermost cog is
Out-shift: A shift to a chainring that is further out- always Y. The innermost cog is always Z.
ward than the one that the chain is currently on.
L
Outer plate: The plate in the derailleur cage that is M
H
on the outward side of the chain.
Outermost chainring: The one that has the most
teeth and is furthest from the frame. 33.3 The outermost chainring is always H. The
Over-shift: When the chain moves too far to shift to middle chainring of a triple is always M. The innermost
and align with the intended chainring. chainring is always L.
Parallelogram: In regard to the front derailleur, this Using the above diagrams, it should be easy to con-
is the part of the body (consisting of two arms on four clude that putting the chain in a gear combination of A/M
pivots, between the mounting clamp and the cage) that would place the chain in the outermost position in the
moves the derailleur cage inward and outward. rear and the middle position of a triple crank. Y/L would
Pinch mechanism: This is the mechanism that mean the chain was in the next-to-innermost position in
attaches the inner wire to the derailleur. The inner wire is the rear and the innermost in the front.
usually routed through a groove in a plate on the derailleur,
and a bolt or nut presses a washer or plate on top of the
inner wire to trap and compress it in the groove. The groove PREREQUISITES
in the plate is often hidden by the pressure washer/plate. Shifter and cable installation
Return spring: A spring inside the parallelogram that In order to adjust the front derailleur, the derailleur
causes the derailleur to move in as far as the inner-limit screw control and cable system must be installed.
will allow, when the tension on the inner wire is released.
Top gear: Same as high gear.
Top-pull derailleur: A derailleur that is operated by INDICATIONS
a cable that comes from above the derailleur. Maintenance
Top-swing derailleur: A design that positions the Dirt in the parallelogram can affect shifts. This can
derailleur cage above the derailleur clamp. Most useful be cleaned by immersing the fully assembled derailleur in
on rear-suspension frames that don’t have a full seat tube solvent, which can quickly remove the dirt.
to which a bottom-swing derailleur can be installed. See Wear adversely affects the parallelogram pivots. When
bottom-swing derailleur for the opposite configuration. pivots are worn out, the derailleur must be replaced.
33 – 2
Changing chainrings, right crank arm, adjusted. If the inner cage plate is gouged or scarred in
any way, the derailleur should be replaced.
or bottom bracket Abusive shifting, crashes, or failure to secure the
Any time a chainring, the right crank arm, or a bot-
derailleur can bend the cage. Minor bends can be realigned,
tom bracket is changed, it is necessary to check the front
but sometimes the derailleur must be replaced.
derailleur adjustment.
Parallelogram pivots wear out, resulting in excess play
Changing chain in the derailleur. This excess play would show up by wig-
Whenever a chain is replaced, shift performance is gling the tail of the cage in and out.
affected. Fresh chains have less lateral flexibility than worn
chains. Different chains have different performance char-
acteristics. After replacing a chain, the derailleur should TOOL CHOICES
be checked and readjusted if necessary. Table 33-1 (below) lists most of the tools available for
front-derailleur adjustment. Most of them are the same
Symptoms indicating adjustment needed tools used for rear derailleurs. Preferred choices are shown
There are a number of symptoms indicating a prob- in bold type. These highlighted tools are recommended
able need for derailleur adjustment. because of a balance among ease of use, versatility, dura-
If the derailleur under- or over-shifts when shifting bility, and economy.
to the H chainring or the cage rubs the chain The procedures in this chapter also require tools that
while on the H chainring, the front-derailleur must be custom made with inexpensive and readily avail-
H-screw may need adjustment or the derailleur able materials and take just a few minutes to make. The
height and rotation may be wrong. names and instructions for making these tools follow.
If the derailleur under- or over-shifts when shift- Alignment string: This tool is used to set the rota-
ing to the L chainring or the cage rubs the chain tional alignment of the front derailleur. It consists of two 5"
while on the L chainring, the front-derailleur sections of bicycle chain joined by a 12" section of elastic
L-screw may need adjustment or the derailleur cord. The best cord for this purpose is available from fabric/
height and rotation may be wrong. sewing stores and has a metallic gold or silver finish. When
If any shift feels hesitant or results in the cage attaching the cord to the pieces of chain, the cord must exit
rubbing the chain after the shift is completed, the chain the same way on both pieces. For example, the
the indexing needs adjustment. cord can touch a chain roller last on each piece or come
Symptoms indicating derailleur service out a rivet hole in an outer side-plate on each piece, but it
cannot touch a chain roller last on one piece and come out
needed of the hole in a side-plate on the other piece.
If the derailleur is dirty and the inward action is slug-
Cage wedge: This tool is used to hold the derailleur
gish, the derailleur should be removed and cleaned, then
cage out at the correct position while setting the derailleur
installed and adjusted.
height. It is made from a 4" section of 5/8" wooden dowel.
Symptoms indicating derailleur One end of the dowel needs to be cut on the diagonal so
replacement needed there is a 2"-long taper to one end of the dowel. Depending
The inner plate of the cage can get gouged and worn on the derailleur design, this wedge will either be inserted
out from trying to shift when the derailleur is not properly into the parallelogram or between the parallelogram and
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TOOLS (table 33-1)

CAGE ALIGNMENT
Park BT-3 Actually a brake tool for aligning caliper arms, this tool works well for bending
the front-derailleur cage.
FOURTH-HAND (CABLE-TENSION) TOOLS (These tools also used for rear derailleurs and brakes)
33 – 3
the seat tube to temporarily hold the front derailleur out at
the correct position to check the height.
COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY
It is always best to follow manufacturer’s recommend-
ations when selecting components. When incompatible
TIME AND DIFFICULTY components are used together, it is likely to show up as a
Front-derailleur adjustment, including hanger align- shifting problem. Not all such problems are immediately
ment and cable-system setup, is a 12–16 minute job of obvious. If using unmatched components, do not assume
moderately high difficulty. Front-derailleur removal, clean- that there are no compatibility problems until the indexing
ing, installation, and adjustment is a 25–30 minute job of has been checked. There is a section in this chapter that
moderately high difficulty. explains how to test indexing performance.
Derailleur and shifter
COMPLICATIONS With indexing systems, compatibility between the
shifter and derailleur is critical. This is because an indexing
Wobbling chainrings shifter will pull a very specific amount of cable for each
Wobbling chainrings make it difficult to find a limit- click. The derailleur must move a very specific distance
screw setting that enables the shift without ending up with in order to line up with the next chainring. If the amount
the chain rubbing on the derailleur cage. of cable moved is wrong, the derailleur will move the
Chainring wobble can be caused by a number of wrong distance.
things. It could be a loose bottom bracket, mis-mounted The shifter and derailleur should be brand-matched,
crank arm, misaligned chainring-mounting arms, or bent whenever possible. There are, however, a few aftermarket
chainrings. Before adjusting the limit screws, the chainring shifter controls that are made specifically for a different
wobble must be checked, and whatever the problem (if brand of derailleur. Grip Shift controls made for Shimano
any) must be fixed. derailleurs are the most common example.
Component-compatibility problems Even within the same brand, there may be problems.
See COMPONENT COMPATIBILITY (below), for the For example, Shimano Dura-Ace 8-speed derailleur con-
numerous complications you might encounter. trols and derailleurs are not compatible with other 8-speed
models of Shimano equipment.
Damaged derailleur
Bent derailleur cages are fairly common but not Inner wire and derailleur control
always obvious. It is not unusual to spend time adjusting The inner wire must be compatible with the derailleur
the derailleur, only to find that it will never work well due control because it is the combination of the shifter-drum
to cage damage. diameter and the inner-wire thickness that determines how
much cable is moved for a given amount of lever motion.
Worn components other than derailleur See DERAILLEUR CONTROLS (page 30-2) for more informa-
Worn chains, chainrings, cables, and derailleur con- tion on shifter and inner-wire compatibility.
trols can all affect derailleur adjustment. It is usually not
until the attempt to adjust the derailleur fails that these Derailleur and seat-tube size
other factors will be considered, resulting in duplication Derailleurs come with a variety of clamp sizes to fit
of effort to adjust the derailleur. If out-shifts are the a variety of seat-tube sizes. Some seat tubes have a fit-
problem, chainring-tooth wear should be checked. ting built into the side to which the derailleur attaches.
This “braze-on” fitting is virtually universal but requires
Derailleur wear a specially designed derailleur.
Derailleur wear can be difficult to detect. The paral- The common seat-tube sizes are 1" (25.4mm), 1.125"
lelogram pivots develop wear. This wear cannot be quanti- (28.6mm), 1.25" (31.8mm), and 1.375" (34.9mm). The two
fied or seen, except by comparing free play at the tail of middle sizes are most common. The 1.125" size is found
the derailleur to that of a new one of the same model. on most steel-frame bikes, except MTBs with oversize
Dirty drivetrain tubing. The 1.25" size is found on most MTBs and frames
Dirt in the chain, cable system, derailleur control, made of materials other than steel. The rarer 1" size is
and chainrings can affect shift performance. Adjusting a found on inexpensive bikes sold in department stores and
derailleur (particularly an indexing one) without cleaning on old Schwinns. The 1.375" size is found on just a few
the related components is a waste of time. bikes with extremely oversized tubing.
33 – 4
Maximum chainring-size difference Test method: To test whether a derailleur’s maximum

Every derailleur is rated for the largest size difference capacity is being exceeded, follow this procedure.
between chainrings that can be tolerated. This is called the Install the derailleur at the correct height and put a
derailleur’s maximum capacity. The maximum capacity rep- chain through the cage from the top of the inner-
resents the greatest differential that can exist between the most chainring to the top of the outermost rear
number of teeth on the smallest chainring and the largest cog. Pull the chain tight. If the chain drags on the
chainring being used. When this capacity is exceeded, the cross-piece at the tail of the derailleur cage, then
chain will drag on the bottom of the derailleur cage when the maximum capacity has been exceeded. It is not
the chain is in the A/L position (see figure 33.4). The rated meaningful if a slack chain dangles and touches the
capacity can sometimes be exceeded, and there are times cross-piece that connects the cage plates together
when the full rated capacity cannot be used. The rating at the tail of the derailleur cage.
is based on an assumption of the angle between the seat Minimum chainring-size difference
tube and the line from the center of the bottom bracket For every derailleur there is a minimum difference
to the center of the rear wheel. If this angle is less than between the size of the outermost chainring and the
the assumption (shallow seat-tube angle or low bottom next chainring inward. This is a rare problem, but it is
bracket), then the capacity can be exceeded. If this angle important to be aware of it. On most bikes, the differences
is more than the assumption (steep seat-tube angle or between chainrings are usually ten teeth or more. Since
high bottom bracket), then the full rated capacity might most derailleurs have a minimum capacity of eight or ten
not be available to use. teeth, minimum capacity is rarely an issue.
It does show up as an issue when a bike is equipped
with a “half-step” gear selection. Half-step gearing gets its
name from the fact that changing from one chainring to
Under tension another results in about half the change in gear ratio that
To A cog
results from changing from one rear cog to an adjacent
Rub rear cog. When the chainrings are a half-step configuration,
they will have a difference only of 4–6 teeth between
the outermost chainring and the next one in. If the
chainrings are set up like this, it is important to check the
front derailleur’s minimum capacity. Derailleurs that are
described as “alpine” or “cross-over” are never suitable
for use with half-step chainrings.
33.4 The chain drags on the cross-piece of the tail of Some compact drive chainring sets have an 8-tooth
the derailleur cage if the maximum capacity of the derail-
leur is exceeded.
difference between a large chainring with 42 teeth and a
middle chainring with 34 teeth. Many MTB derailleurs are
Ratings for derailleurs can be determined in several not suitable for this 8-tooth difference.
ways.
instruction sheet that comes with a new derail- Front derailleur positioned
leur. This instruction sheet normally includes the over outer chainring
ratings for the derailleur. Some manufacturers
will supply literature on request. Interference between
Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics: cage plate and teeth
derailleur models but is up-to-date for only a
brief time after the date of publication. As of
2003, the most recent edition was published in
1995. It is particularly useful if trying to figure
out the capacity of an older-model derailleur
that is currently on a bike.
Bike-alog: This computerized source reference for 33.5 The bottom edge of the inner cage plate inter-
bicycle parts has capacity information for many feres with the teeth of the middle chainring on a triple
currently available models of derailleurs. crankset when the minimum capacity has been violated.
33 – 5
Ratings for derailleurs can be determined in several part of the derailleur may bump into the seat tube or
ways. itself before the cage has moved enough to complete
Manufacturer’s literature: There is often an the shift. The best solution to this is to change the
instruction sheet that comes with a new derail- bottom bracket to move the chainrings as far out as
leur. This instruction sheet normally includes the chainline will allow. At times, it may be necessary
the ratings for the derailleur. Some manufac- to re-space the rear hub and move the chainring set so
turers will supply literature on request. that the chainrings and rear cogset can both be moved
Sutherland’s Handbook for Bicycle out together to maintain the chainline.
Mechanics: This book includes ratings for
a wide variety of derailleur models but is up-
Derailleur and chain
Indexed derailleurs moved in fixed amounts. The
to-date for only a brief time after the date of
chain must respond as expected for the shift to be
publication. As of 2003, the most recent edition
completed. If the chain has more lateral flexibility than
was published in 1995. It is particularly useful
expected, when the derailleur moves its fixed amount,
if trying to figure out the capacity of an older-
the chain will not respond enough to complete the
model derailleur that is currently on a bike.
shift. Chains vary in lateral flexibility because of brand
Bike-alog: This computerized source reference
differences and wear. If the derailleur manufacturer’s
for bicycle parts has capacity information
recommendations are not followed, shift performance
for currently available models of derailleurs.
may be compromised.
Instead of numerical ratings, there may sim-
Additionally, 9-speed and 10-speed chains per-
ply be a reference to “alpine,” “cross-over,”
form best if a derailleur rated for 9-speed or 10-speed
or “half-step.”
chainrings is used. Derailleurs with these ratings have
Test method: To test whether a derailleur’s min-
narrower cages to correspond with the narrow 9-speed
imum capacity is being exceeded, follow this
chain and even narrower 10-speed chain. When the wrong
procedure. Install the derailleur to the correct
front derailleur is used with these chains, front-derailleur
height on the seat tube. Swing the derailleur out
shift performance will be slower and inconsistent.
far enough that the inner plate swings over the
top of the next-to-outermost chainring. If the Chain and chainrings
inner plate clears, then the minimum capacity The width of a chain must be suitable to the
has not been exceeded. chainring set or it may rub against adjacent chainrings.
Measurement method: If the bottom edge of See the CHAINS chapter (page 26-2 and 26-5). This is
the inner cage plate is never more than 10mm particularly the case if the chainrings are rated for use
below the bottom edge of the outer cage plate, with either a 9-speed or a 10-speed cassette. If these
then the derailleur is half-step compatible. If chainrings are used with a cassette with fewer gears
the offset is greater than 10mm at any point, than for which the chainrings are rated, the chain must
then the derailleur cannot be used with half- still correspond to the chainring rating. For example, if
step chainrings. using 9-speed-rated chainrings with an 8-speed cassette,
an 8-speed chain will work with the cassette but not the
chainrings. For this combination, a 9-speed chain would
work with both the 8-speed cassette and the 9-speed-
Cage offset rated chainrings.
The shaping of the side-plates of the chain affects
a chain’s ability to engage the chainring’s teeth. When
not using the manufacturer’s recommended chain, shift
performance may be compromised.
33.6 Measure cage offset here.
Derailleur and chainring-set position UNDERSTANDING HOW FRONT

It is possible for the chainring set to end up too
close to the frame for the front derailleur to work.
DERAILLEURS WORK
The operation of a front derailleur is relatively com-
This can happen even though chainline is acceptable
plex. By understanding what is happening in a front derail-
and chainring-to-frame clearance is adequate. When
leur, the installation and adjustment procedures outlined
the chainrings are too close to the frame, the moving
here will become clearer.
33 – 6
How a cable moves the derailleur in and H
out
Most derailleur controls operate by pulling the inner Stop tab attached
wire through one or more lengths of housing. The mecha- to parallelogram
nism takes up excess inner wire and pulls the derailleur
to its outermost position. Figure 33.7 shows this in a
simplified form.
Cable pinch
Fixed
Inner wire
Derailleur parallelogram
33.8 A stop tab attached to the parallelogram bumps

Derailleur cage into the H-screw to stop the derailleur’s outward motion.
L-screw
Stop tab attached

to parallelogram
33.7 A derailleur parallelogram is deformed across its
diagonal to deflect it laterally to a more outward position.
The piece of exposed wire closest to the derail-
leur is attached to an arm that serves as an extension
of one of the parallelogram arms. When this lever is
rotated about its pivot, the whole parallelogram structure
changes shape so that it expands or contracts, moving
the derailleur cage out or in. 33.9 A stop tab attached to the parallelogram bumps
into the L-screw to stop the derailleur’s inward motion.
When the tension on the cable is released, a spring
in the parallelogram causes it to return to its original
position.
The importance of derailleur height
One of the most important factors affecting front-
How limit screws work shifting performance is the distance from the derailleur
The two limit screws act like two adjustable barri- cage to the chainrings. Consider the point that the cage
cades. There is usually some projection or surface on a pushes on the chain to be the deflection point (see figure
parallelogram arm that the limit screw butts up against. 33.10, page 33-8). Consider the point that the chain
By adjusting one limit screw, the range of travel for the engages the chainring to be the engagement point (see figure
parallelogram in one direction will be changed. In other 33.11, page 33-8). The engagement point is always at the
words, by loosening the H-screw, the barricade that stops top dead center of the chainring; it never moves.
the outward motion of the parallelogram is changed so As the derailleur moves up, the deflection point
the parallelogram can move further out. By loosening on the chain moves further back in the derailleur cage.
the L-screw, the barricade that stops the inward motion Consequently, as the derailleur moves up, the distance
of the parallelogram is changed, and the derailleur can between the engagement point and the deflection point
move further in. increases. The greater this distance is, the more derailleur
Changing one limit screw does not affect the other. motion is needed to deflect the chain enough to cause it
Changing the H-screw setting only changes the shift to to disengage one chainring and engage another. Figures
the outermost cog. Changing the L-screw only changes 33.10 and 33.11 (page 33-8) show in an exaggerated fash-
the shift to the innermost cog. Figures 33.8 and 33.9 show ion how moving the derailleur up increases the distance
a simplified and exaggerated model of how limit screws from the engagement point to the deflection point.
affect the range of motion of the parallelogram.
33 – 7
straightening tends to move the chain inward. The oppo-
Deflection Engagment site is true if the chain is on one of the outermost cogs
point point when the shift in from the outermost chainring occurs.
Since the chain is fixed to a rear cog that is already further
out than where the chain is being pushed, the tendency
of the chain to straighten out actually resists the inward
33.10 With the derailleur at the recommended height, motion of the chain. Consequently, when a chain is on
the deflection point is only two and a half links behind
the engagement point. an inward cog in the rear, the inward shift of the chain
in front is enhanced; when the chain is on an outward
cog in the rear, the inward shift of the chain is restricted.
Deflection Engagment Whenever chainline is off, one of these two tendencies
point point becomes exaggerated. If the chainrings are too far out
relative to the rear cogs, then the chain has a tendency
to shift too far in the front when being shifted in. If the
chainrings are too far in relative to the rear cogs, then the
33.11 Note how the deflection point has moved to chain resists inward shifts in the front.
three and a half links behind the engagement point now
that the derailleur height has moved up. The tail of the outer cage plate also affects the inward
motion of the chain. When the in-shift starts, the chain is
What happens when the derailleur high on the outermost chainring and is being pushed by
shifts the chain from the outermost the highest, most forward, part of the outer plate. Once
the chain derails, the chain begins to drop to the smaller
chainring inward to the next chainring chainring. At this point, it is lower and further back in
Before reading this, put a bike in the stand and shift the derailleur cage. This is when the motion of the tail
the chain off of the outermost chainring. As you shift, of the derailleur cage affects the shift inward from the
turn the crank very slowly and move the derailleur in very outermost chainring.
slowly. Observe exactly what is happening with the chain Two things determine the range of motion of the tail
and derailleur cage for the duration of the shift. of the outer plate. One is the L-screw setting (double-
When the derailleur moves inward, the nose of the chainring sets) or cable tension (triple-chainring sets). The
outer plate deflects the chain just behind the engagement less the whole mechanism is allowed to travel inward,
point. Since the distance between the deflection point and the less the outer plate will move. The primary function
the engagement point is very small, only minimal cage of the L-screw or cable-tension setting, however, is to
motion is needed to cause the chain to derail to the inside position the inner plate so that it will stop the chain from
of the outermost chainring. moving too far.
Once the chain disengages from the outer chainring, The second factor that influences the inward range
it is moving inward. Something has to stop the chain from of motion of the outer plate is the shape of the derailleur
moving too far. That is accomplished by the inner plate of cage. If the tail of the cage is wide, the tail of the outer
the cage. The rest position of the inner plate is determined plate will not end up as far in when the inner plate arrives
either by the derailleur’s L-screw on a double-chainring at its innermost position. If the tail of the cage is nar-
set or by the indexing adjustment of the cable on a triple- row, the tail of the outer plate will end up further inward
chainring set. If either the L-screw or the cable-tension when the inner plate stops at the same point. The width
adjustment is too loose, then the derailleur cage will move of a derailleur-cage tail can be modified by bending the
too far inward. plates or by changing spacers between the tail ends of
After the nose of the outer plate starts the chain the two plates.
derailment and inward motion, two things can add to
this inward motion. One is the angle of the chain com- What happens when the derailleur
ing from the rear cogs, and the other is the motion of the shifts the chain from a middle chainring
tail of outer plate. to the innermost chainring
Chains naturally want to run straight, rather than in the Before reading this, put a bike in the stand and shift
S-shaped curve that is required when the chain is on two the chain from the middle chainring in. As you shift, turn
gears that are not in line with each other. When the chain the crank very slowly and shift the derailleur in very slowly.
is on an inward cog in the rear and the chain gets released Observe exactly what is happening with the chain and
from the chainring, it tries to straighten itself out. This derailleur cage for the duration of the shift.
33 – 8
This is a more difficult shift than the shift from an the inner plate is adjusted by bending the nose toward or
outer chainring to a middle or inner chainring. The reason away from the chain. This is called toeing the nose. These
is that the top of the middle chainring is much further days, most derailleurs already come with a good amount
below the derailleur, so the deflection point is way back on of toe, but toeing can be used to speed up the shift to the
the outer cage plate. This difference is what led Shimano outer chainring anytime it is sluggish.
to redesign their chainring teeth to make it easier for the Chain angle and load on the chain dramatically affect
chain to derail inward. This way, the outer plate does not this shift. As in the case of in-shifting, the position of
have to move as far to achieve chain derailment. the chain in the rear affects the tendency of the chain to
Other than the fact that this shift naturally demands move one direction or the other. When the chain is in an
more of the derailleur, the principles are the same as the inward position in the rear, it resists outward motion at
shift from the outer chainring. the chainrings. When the chain is in an outward position
in the rear, it encourages the outward motion of the chain.
What happens when the derailleur Load is important because the rising teeth on the chainring
shifts the chain out to the outer being shifted to must help the chain rise by just brushing
chainring against the chain. When there is load on the chain, it keeps
Before reading this, put a bike in the stand and the chain down.
shift the chain from the next-to-outermost chainring
out. As you shift, turn the crank very slowly and move
What happens when the derailleur
the derailleur cage out slowly. Observe exactly what is shifts the chain from an inner chainring
happening with the chain and derailleur cage for the to a middle chainring
duration of the shift. Before reading this, put a bike in the stand and shift
With this shift, the inner plate moves the chain and the chain from the innermost chainring to the middle
the outer plate prevents it from going too far. The shift chainring. As you do this, turn the crankset very slowly,
starts when the tail of the inner plate contacts the chain move the derailleur cage out slowly, and observe exactly
and pushes it outward. The next thing to happen is that what is happening with the chain and derailleur cage for
the teeth of the outer chainring (at about the 10:00 posi- the duration of the shift.
tion) begin to catch the chain, causing it to rise. As the Like the shift to the outermost chainring, this shift
chain begins to rise, it moves in the derailleur cage, and is initiated by the contact of the tail of the inner plate to
the deflection point moves forward. The nose of the inner the chain. This occurs at a considerable distance from the
plate completes the shift by pressing the chain the rest engagement point. Consequently, a great deal of lateral
of the way onto the chainring, close to the engagement motion is required to move the chain enough to engage
point. Because of the short distance between the nose of the middle chainring. As in the case of a shift to the
the inner plate and the engagement point, small changes outermost chainring, the teeth of the middle chainring
in the nose position can make big differences in shift intersect the chain and cause it to rise. Unlike the shift
performance. Although it is the tail of the inner plate that to the outermost chainring, the chain never rises enough
begins the shift, the final position of the nose of the inner to engage the nose of the inner plate. This means that
plate is the most critical factor affecting the completion the deflection point never gets very close to the engage-
of the shift to the outermost chainring. ment point. The only way to keep the chain moving out
Two factors influence the final position of the nose is to move the inner plate outward more. Consequently,
of the inner plate. These are the H-screw setting and the a lot more outward motion is required to shift out to a
width of the nose of the cage. middle chainring than is required to shift out to an outer
When the H-screw is set, it determines the range of chainring. This is perhaps the most demanding shift for
motion of the entire cage. The function of this screw a front derailleur to make.
is to position the outer cage plate close enough to the The amount of outward motion of the cage is con-
outer chainring so that it is impossible for the chain to trolled by the operator on a friction system. It is controlled
move out past the chainring. Consequently, the H-screw by the cable-tension adjustment on an indexing system. It
cannot be used to adjust the final position of the nose is the difficulty of this shift that led Shimano to develop
of the inner plate. the HyperDrive chainring design, which features an extra
Unlike in-shifts, the width of the tail is relatively unim- set of teeth on the inner face of the middle chainring.
portant to out-shifts. It is the cage width at the nose that is These extra teeth help pick up the chain. The HyperDrive
the most important factor. This is controlled by toeing the chainring’s primary teeth are also designed to make it easier
nose of the inner plate. The final position of the nose of for the chain to engage.
33 – 9
The importance of the rotational

alignment of the cage
INSTALLATION AND
Rotational alignment of the derailleur cage (adjusted ADJUSTMENT
by rotating the derailleur mount around the seat tube)
controls two important things. It affects the relative angles
of the cage plates to the chain, and it affects the relative INSTALLATION
width of the cage.
Rotational alignment affects the relative angle of the GEAR COMBINATIONS (page 33-2).
cage plates to the chain. This is most critical when look-
ing at the relationship between the chain and the outer Compatibility checks
cage plate, when the chain is on the large chainring. If the 1. [ ] Check reference information to determine that
chain is on an outer rear cog, the outward motion of the derailleur and derailleur control are compatible.
chain is enhanced; the chance of the chain shifting out
that inner wire, housing, and derailleur con-
past the outer chainring is at its greatest. Consequently, it trol are compatible.
is at this time that it is most important to keep the nose 3. [ ] Check reference information to determine
of the outer plate as close to the outer chainring as pos- that derailleur control is compatible with
sible. The chain angles out to the outermost cog. The brand of crankset and number of chainrings.
outer plate should remain in a position so that it stays 4. [ ] Check reference information to determine if
parallel to the chain when the chain is on the outermost chain is compatible with chainring set.
chainring and rear cog. Make certain that the outer plate
is parallel to the chain and not the chainrings. Otherwise,
Lubrication
Pinch mechanism threads
there will be large gap between the chain and the nose of
the outer plate at the point the chain just clears the tail of
the cage. This reduces the effectiveness of the outer plate
in preventing an over-shift.
Rotational alignment also affects the effective width Both ends
of the derailleur cage. Think of the opening in the back
Both ends
of the cage like a window opening in a wall. If you are
facing the wall directly and the window is right in front
of you, then the full width of the window is apparent
and it would be relatively easy to throw a ball through the
window. On the other hand, if the wall is rotated so that
you are no longer facing the window squarely, its apparent
width is reduced and it becomes much more challenging
to throw the ball through the opening. When a derailleur 33.12 Oil at all these points.
cage is not rotated correctly, it is effectively narrower and 5. Lubricate following points:
it is a lot more likely that the chain will end up rubbing [ ] Both ends of all four parallelogram pivots.
the cage in some gear combination. [ ] Mounting bolt threads.
[ ] Pinch mechanism threads.
ABOUT THE REST Setting derailleur height

NOTE: E-type derailleur is installed with bottom
OF THIS CHAPTER bracket and has no height or rotation adjust-
ment. If E-type derailleur has been installed, go
The rest of this chapter is divided into four parts:
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT to ADJUSTMENT on page 33-12.
TESTING INDEX PERFORMANCE The derailleur height is critical to the performance
FRONT-DERAILLEUR SERVICE of the front derailleur. The height is ideal when the outer
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING cage plate clears the teeth on the outer chainring by 2mm
as it passes over the teeth. The height is acceptable within
a clearance range of 1–3mm.
There are several complications to setting the height.
The cage of front derailleur moves up (bottom-swing
derailleurs) or down (top-swing derailleurs) as it moves
33 – 10
out, so if the height is checked when the outer plate is 9. [ ] Adjust insertion of cage-wedge tool until
not exactly over the teeth of the outer chainring, then the bottom edge of outer cage is directly over
setting will not be accurate. Another complication is that tips of outer-chainring teeth. NOTE: Due to
the teeth on the outer chainring may not be all equal in offset is some cages, this is NOT the same
as setting face of cage flush with face of
height. This may be because the chainring is deliberately
chainring teeth!
not round, or it may be because some teeth are shaped
10. [ ] Rotate crank so that tallest teeth are under-
differently to facilitate shifting. When setting the derailleur neath derailleur cage and find point on outer
height, make sure that the crank is rotated to position the plate at which chainring teeth come closest
tallest teeth under the derailleur cage. The last compli- to bottom edge of outer cage plate.
cation is that the curve of the bottom edge of the outer 11. [ ] Arrange stack of feeler gauges until they
plate may not be concentric to the curve created by the total close to 2mm thickness.
tips of the chainring teeth. This means that the clearance 12. Insert stack of feeler gauges between teeth
between the bottom edge of the outer plate and the teeth and bottom edge of outer cage plate and
may not be uniform over the whole length of the outer determine if they:
[ ] just fit; height is good.
plate. When setting the height, be sure the clearance is
[ ] fit loosely; derailleur should be lowered.
being checked at the point that the bottom edge of the
[ ] fit too tight; derailleur should be raised.
outer plate comes closest to the chainring teeth. 13. [ ] Leave, lower, or raise derailleur on seat
tube as determined in previous step, then
recheck height.
1-3mm
Setting derailleur rotation
The derailleur’s rotational alignment is critical to the
shifting performance. The rotational alignment is ideal
when the portion of the outer plate that overlaps the chain
is parallel to the chain (when the chain is on the outermost
chainring and outermost rear cog).
There are several items to consider when setting
rotational alignment.
One important consideration is that the outer plate of
the derailleur cage is rarely a simple flat shape. Add to that
33.13 The correct range of derailleur height. the fact that the chain is not flat. Consequently, it is difficult
6. [ ] Place derailleur clamp around seat tube, to say that the two are parallel or not parallel. Furthermore,
then install and gently secure mounting the whole length of the outer plate does not overlap the
bolt. NOTE: Secure bolt just enough so chain all at once. The nose is generally above the chain, and
derailleur can be slid up and down only by
from the midpoint to the tail, the outer plate is generally
twisting it around tube. Bolt is too loose
if clamp can be seen moving when tail of
below the chain. The only portion of the cage plate that
cage is moved up and down. matters is the short section that would rub the chain if the
7. [ ] Check that outer plate is close to parallel to cage plate were moved in far enough to contact the chain
outer chainring, and reposition derailleur if it (the overlap zone, see figure 33.14, page 33-12).
is not close to parallel. Another consideration is the fact that the derailleur
Step #8 uses the custom-made cage-wedge tool tends to move while the mounting bolt is being secured.
described in the TOOL CHOICES section on page 33-3. Finally, it makes a difference whether the chain is
Without this tool, in step #9 move the derailleur cage out already installed or the derailleur is being installed before
to the correct position with your fingers while checking the the chain. With the chain already in place, the outer plate
height. The strength of some return springs makes step must be aligned to the chain. That can be somewhat awk-
#9 difficult to perform without the cage-wedge tool. ward. With the chain not in place yet, a simple and superior
8. [ ] Insert cage-wedge tool between parallelo- substitute for the chain is used to align the derailleur. This
gram arms or between parallelogram assem- is the custom-made alignment-string tool described in the
bly and frame (whichever position causes TOOL CHOICES section on page 33-3.
derailleur cage to move in and out as cage- To use the alignment-string tool, clamp or tie the
wedge tool is inserted to different depths).
wheel and the crank so that they cannot rotate (a Quick
Grip clamp can usually be positioned so it will fix both
33 – 11
from turning simultaneously. Place one piece of the chain 14. [ ] Fix crankset and rear wheel from turning,
on the outermost chainring so that the end with the string then place alignment-string tool on outer-
attached is close to 12:00. Place the other piece of chain most chainring and outermost rear cog so
on the outermost rear cog so that the slack is pulled out of string departs both sections of chain in a
similar fashion. Adjust insertion of cage-
the string. It is important that the string attaches to both
wedge tool to hold outer cage plate close to
sections of chain in the same way. If the string lines up
string without cage touching string.
with a chain roller on one section, it should line up with a
In step #15, look for whether the overlap zone of the
chain roller on the other section. If the string comes out
derailleur cage is parallel to the string. To see this best, look
the outer face of one section of chain, it should come out
from straight above the outer face of the derailleur cage.
the outer face of the other section of chain. It is easiest
Putting a piece of brightly colored paper underneath the
to leave the string outside of the derailleur cage.
gap between the string and the cage plate makes it easier
to see whether the gap is uniform over the length of the
overlap zone (uniform gap indicates string and overlap
String
zone are parallel). If further help is needed to see well,
shine a flashlight on the bottom side of the paper. Per-
Overlap zone
fection is desirable, but controlling the derailleur motion
precisely is difficult. A tiny amount of bigger gap toward
the back end of the overlap zone (called a tail-in condi-
33.14 With the wheel and crank fixed from turning, tion) is probably acceptable, but no amount of tail-out
install the derailleur-alignment-string tool in the fashion misalignment is acceptable. Consider .1–.3mm-bigger gap
shown in this illustration (distance between the cogset
at the tail end of the overlap zone to be an acceptable
and chainrings is shortened for this depiction).
degree of error.
15. [ ] Secure mounting bolt by small increments
FLAT OUTER PLATE just until front derailleur cannot be twisted
by hand around seat tube, then tap on pro-
truding part of clamp assembly until overlap
zone of outer cage plate is parallel to string.
String (to A cog) Overlap zone
16. [ ] Secure mounting bolt to 40in-lbs.
17. [ ] Check rotational alignment again, reposition,
and torque again if necessary until alignment
OFFSET OUTER PLATE
is maintained after torquing mounting bolt.
NOTE: If perfect parallel is not achievable, no
amount of larger gap at front of overlap zone
String (to A cog) Overlap zone is acceptable, but .1–.3mm-larger gap at tail
end of overlap zone is acceptable.
OUTER PLATE WITH
INSIDE-ANGLED OFFSET
ADJUSTMENT
String (to A cog) Overlap zone NOTE: Before proceeding further, be sure to be
GEAR COMBINATIONS (page 33-2).
CURVED OUTER PLATE
Presetting limit screws
The limit screws need to be set in a very approximate
String (to A cog) Overlap zone fashion before the cable and chain are installed. The purpose
of this is to keep the chain from shifting off the chainring
33.15 Regardless of the shape of the outer plate, rotate set while performing the final adjustments. Precise adjustment
the derailleur so that the portion of the outer plate in the
overlap zone (see figure 33.14) is parallel to the string of the limit screws must be done after cable installation. Do not waste
connecting cog A to chainring H. NOTE: In the third effort doing steps #18 and #19 too precisely! When the H-screw
example the string is shown inside the cage because the is tightened, it reduces the outward range of motion of the
angle of the inside of the outer plate is different than the derailleur. When the L-screw is tightened, it reduces the
angle on the outside of the outer plate. It is usually easier inward range of motion of the rear derailleur. See figures
to leave the string on the outside and set the rotation to
be off by the degree of the angled offset. 33.16 and 33.17 (page 33.13) for clarification of the conse-
quences on tightening and loosening each limit screw.
33 – 12
Positions
L H
L H
1 reversed on
top-swing
models
Positions
L H
2 reversed on
top-swing
models
a
H
b
2
33.19 Adjust the H-screw so that when the derailleur
1 is pushed outward, the nose of the cage ends up cen-
tered over the H chainring (a=b).
33.16 Turning the H-screw will change the derailleur’s
outward rest position in the direction indicated by the
19. [ ] Adjust H-screw so that when derailleur is
corresponding numbers. pushed out to its limit, outermost chainring
appears in center of cage, halfway between
1 noses of cage plates. NOTE: Cage must be
pushed manually outward to its absolute
limit to check this setting!
L H
2 Cable attachment
When adjusting an indexing derailleur, cable setup is
Positions critical for proper performance. Even if adjusting a derail-
L H
reversed on leur on a bike with the cable already installed, removing

top-swing the cable and setting it up by the procedures outlined in
1 models
a preceding chapter (DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS, page
31-4) is strongly recommended.
2 20. [ ] Use procedures in DERAILLEUR-CABLE SYSTEMS
chapter (pages 31-4 through 31-8) to install
inner wires and housing.
33.17 Turning the L-screw will change the derailleur’s 21. [ ] Put left-side derailleur control in fully
most-inward position in the direction indicated by the released position.
corresponding numbers.
22. [ ] Loosen or disassemble pinch mechanism to
find groove covered by pinch plate or washer.
Positions
Routing the inner wire through the pinch mechanism
L H
reversed on
top-swing correctly can be counterintuitive. The best procedure is
models to disassemble the pinch mechanism in order to find the
groove that the inner wire sits in. The inner wire usually
a does not maintain a straight line as it goes through the
L
b pinch mechanism but instead bends to go over the top
M of the pinch mechanism. See the illustration below for
examples of normal and incorrect cable routing.
H Wire groove Correct Incorrect
33.18 Adjust the L-screw so that the nose of the
derailleur cage plates center to the L chainring (a=b).
NOTE: Remove cage-wedge tool and alignment-
string tool if still installed. Remove devices
Inner wire
Inner wire
keeping wheel and crank from turning if still

installed.
18. [ ] Adjust L-screw so innermost chainring
appears in center of cage, halfway between
33.20 Route the inner wire through the pinch mecha-
noses of cage plates.
nism so that it seats in the groove hidden behind the
pinch plate or pinch washer.
33 – 13
23. [ ] Lay inner wire into groove and gently secure chain while the cranks are turning, once the closest point
pinch bolt/nut just enough to keep wire from is found, the H-screw should be set closer to .5mm of
falling out or slipping. If the pinch plate has clearance. The best way to measure clearance is to insert
a narrow tab that folds over edge of plate a feeler gauge between the cage plate and the chain.
with groove, narrow tab always goes coun-
Because of the difficulties that will be encountered
terclockwise of section of wire entering
when measuring this clearance, the following procedures
pinch mechanism.
for setting the H-screw are based on creating noise
The inner wire needs slack removed, but not too
through a too-tight adjustment, then making small adjust-
much or it will interfere with the setting of the L-screw
ments until the noise is eliminated. Optionally, at the end
(particularly if the preliminary setting of the L-screw was
of the adjustment procedure, the clearance is measured.
too tight). In the next step, pull most of the slack out of
If there is difficulty hearing the changes in the noise, rely
the inner wire before torquing the pinch nut/bolt.
24. [ ] Pull of slack out of inner wire by hand and on the measurement technique.
secure pinch mechanism to 35in-lbs (check
L H
that inner wire is still in groove). 1
NOTE: Install rear derailleur and attach rear cable
system at this time, if not already installed. Positions
L H
Checking chainring wobble 2 reversed on
top-swing
If the chainrings wobble, it interferes with limit-screw models
setting. The next steps checks for wobble and refers to
other chapters for correction of wobble.
25. [ ] Align nose of outer cage plate directly over
teeth of outer chainring. To A cog
26. [ ] Rotate crank and observe whether outer 2
chainring wobbles >.5mm.
27. [ ] See CHAINRINGS chapter (page 23-13) and 1
PRESS-FIT CRANK ARMS chapter (page 20-10) .5–1.0mm
for procedures for aligning chainrings.
33.21 Set the H-screw so that this clearance is
Chain installation and derailleur- achieved when the derailleur stops its outward motion.
capacity checks NOTE: Adjusting the H-screw in direction 1 does not
move the cage, it only changes how far the cage can
The derailleur should be checked for whether its
move in direction 1. Adjusting the H-screw in direction 2
maximum or minimum capacities have been exceeded. only reduces the amount of travel possible in direction 1.
28. [ ] Install chain and size by procedure in CHAINS
chapter (page 26-10). 31. [ ] Use right derailleur control to shift chain to
29. [ ] Put chain in A/L position, put load on chain, A position on rear cogset.
then check if chain touches cross-piece at 32. [ ] While turning crank continuously, pull on
tail of front-derailleur cage. If so, maximum exposed section of inner wire with hand to
capacity has been exceeded. move front derailleur out as far as it will go,
30. [ ] Shift front derailleur until inner cage plate then hold wire firmly in this position while
is just above next-to-outermost chainring. watching gap between outer face of chain
If interference with teeth occurs, minimum and outer cage plate and listening for rub
capacity has been exceeded. between outer cage plate and chain. NOTE:
If chain shifts off outer chainring in this step,
H-screw setting start again with H-screw 1/2 turn tighter.
Set the H-screw to stop the outward motion of the 33. [ ] If rub is not detected: Release wire, turn
derailleur cage at a point where the outer plate clears the H-screw 1/4 turn clockwise, then repeat
chain by .5–1.0mm (with chain in A/H position). step 32 (continue 1/4-turn adjustments
Measuring this is complicated by chainring wobble until rub is detected).
34. [ ] When rub is detected: Release wire, turn
and chain wiggle. The crank must be turned for several
H-screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise, then
revolutions and stopped at the point that there is the least repeat step 32 (continue 1/4-turn adjust-
clearance between the chain and the outer cage plate. If ments until rub is no longer detected).
the chainrings don’t wobble much and the chain doesn’t NOTE: If step 33 was performed to create
wiggle much, then the 1.0mm clearance should be safe. On rub, only 1/4 turn counterclockwise should
the other hand, if there is a lot of lateral motion of the be needed in this step!
33 – 14
Step #35 is optional. With high-quality equipment Because of the difficulties that will be encountered
and very straight chainrings, a slightly better adjustment when measuring this clearance, the following procedures
can be achieved by performing this step. for setting the L-screw are based on creating noise through
35. [ ] Optionally, turn H-screw 1/8 turn clockwise a too-tight adjustment, then making small adjustments
then repeat check for rub again. Undo this until the noise is eliminated. Optionally, at the end of the
adjustment if rub is re-created. adjustment procedure, the clearance is measured. If there
Step #36 is a measurement technique utilizing a feeler is difficulty hearing the changes in the noise, rely on the
gauge to check clearance between the outer face of the measurement technique.
chain and the outer cage plate. As stated at the beginning NOTE: If inner wire is too tight, L-screw cannot be
of this section, there are several complications to taking set.
this measurement, so step #36 should only be performed if 37. [ ] Use derailleur controls to shift chain to Z posi-
there is uncertainty at this point about whether the H-screw tion on rear cogset and L chainring. NOTE:
setting is good at the conclusion of step #34 or #35. If chain shifts off inner chainring in this step,
36. [ ] Only if unsure of rubbing sounds created start again with L-screw 1/2 turn tighter.
and eliminated in steps 32–35, use feeler 38. [ ] While applying resistance to rear-wheel rota-
gauge to confirm that clearance between tion, turn crank slowly and continuously.
outer face of chain and outer cage plate is Watch gap between inner face of chain and
.5–1mm at closest point that occurs during inner cage plate, and listen for rub between
full revolution of chain. inner cage plate and chain.
39. [ ] If rub is not detected: Turn L-screw 1/4 turn
L-screw setting clockwise, then repeat step 38 (continue 1/4-
Set the L-screw to stop the inward motion of the turn-adjustments until rub is detected).
derailleur cage at a point where the inner plate clears the 40. [ ] When rub is detected: Turn L-screw 1/4
chain by .5–1.0mm (with chain in Z/L position). turn counterclockwise, then repeat step 38
Measuring this is complicated by chainring wobble (continue 1/4-turn adjustments until rub is
and chain wiggle. The crank must be turned for several no longer detected). NOTE: If step 39 was
performed to create rub, only 1/4 turn coun-
revolutions and stopped at the point that there is the least
terclockwise should be needed in this step!
clearance between the chain and the outer cage plate. If
Step #41 is optional. With high-quality equipment
the chainrings don’t wobble much and the chain doesn’t
and very straight chainrings, a slightly better adjustment
wiggle much, then the 1.0mm clearance should be safe.
can be achieved by performing this step.
On the other hand, if there is a lot of lateral motion of
41. [ ] Optionally, turn L-screw 1/8 turn clockwise
the chain while the cranks are turning, once the closest then repeat check for rub again. Undo this
point is found, the L-screw should be set closer to .5mm adjustment if rub is re-created.
of clearance. The best way to measure clearance is to insert Step #42 is a measurement technique utilizing a feeler
a feeler gauge between the cage plate and the chain. gauge to check clearance between the outer face of the
chain and the outer cage plate. As stated at the beginning
1
of this section, there are several complications to taking
this measurement, so step #42 should only be performed if
L H
there is uncertainty at this point as to whether the L-screw

2
setting is good at the conclusion of step #40 or #41.
42. [ ] Only if unsure of rubbing sounds created and
Positions
eliminated in steps 38–41, use feeler gauge
L
reversed on
top-swing to confirm that clearance between inner face
of chain and inner cage plate is .5–1mm at
H
.5–1.0mm models
1 closest point that occurs during full revolu-
tion of chain.
2 Fine-tuning shift to outer chainring
To Z cog
Once the H-screw is set, the chain should shift effort-
lessly to the H chainring. In some cases, the shift may be
slow or hesitant. In this case, some further adjustment is
needed, but not of the H-screw. Instead, the angle of the
33.22 Set the L-screw so that this clearance is nose of the inner cage plate must be changed.
achieved when the derailleur stops its inward motion.
33 – 15
When the chain is in a more-inward position in the stretch it. Somehow, however, cable systems develop
rear, the angle of the chain retards out-shifting at the slack rapidly after installation. This development of slack
chainrings. Consequently, to test whether further tuning can compromise the indexing adjustment. What causes
is needed, the chain should be on the most inward cog it this slack is the inner-wire head seating into its socket
would normally be on when shifting to the H chainring. and the housing ends and fittings seating into theirs. This
This is the Y cog. The shift to the H chainring should can happen gradually, as shifting loads are repeatedly put
always be made from the adjacent inward chainring, which on the cable systems, or it can be simulated by stressing
would be the L chainring on a double-chainring set or the the cable system one time at a substantially higher load
M chainring on a triple-chainring set. than normal. This overload stressing also tests the cable
system for integrity.
Y L Since the systems will be overloaded, it is important
that the derailleur control and the derailleur be in posi-
tions that can support the load. The derailleur should be
Y M at its outermost position, supported by the H-screw. The
derailleur control should be at its fully released position,
supported by its own internal stop. To accomplish this,
33.23 Correct chain position when checking the shift the lever must be operated to put the chain on the L
to the H chainring. chainring, and then the inner wire must be pulled manu-
ally (while pedaling) to put the chain on the H chainring.
43. [ ] Double chainrings only: Put the chain in the
Once the chain is in place, stop pedaling and pull out
Y/L position.
Triple chainrings only: Put the chain in the
hard on the inner wire a few times. Protect your hand
Y/M position. from damage by using a folded rag between your hand
When the rider shifts to the H chainring, it is usually and the inner wire.
47. [ ] Make sure front derailleur control is fully
because the pedaling speed is getting too high in the cur-
released.
rent chainring. It is a false test to check the shift to this
48. [ ] While pedaling, pull on exposed inner wire
chainring while pedaling slowly. For this test, the minimum at down tube or top tube until chain is on H
pedaling speed should be 60rpm, and there is nothing chainring, then stop pedaling.
unrealistic about testing the shift at 80rpm. 49. [ ] With chain still on H chainring, pull hard
44. [ ] While pedaling at 60rpm or more, shift on exposed inner wire to seat cable head
chain to H chainring and observe whether and housing ends in stops and sockets and
chain shifts promptly or with clatter and/or to test integrity of pinch mechanism and
hesitation. cable system.
45. [ ] If shift is too slow, use Park BT-3 to bend 50. [ ] Pedal crank so chain returns to A cog.
nose of inner cage plate closer to chain
(without bending it far enough that it will Basic cable tensioning
rub when chain is on H chainring). Coarse adjustment of the inner-wire tension is done
by pulling or releasing wire through the pinch mechanism
Park BT-3
on the derailleur. Fine tuning will be done afterward by
using the adjusting barrel on the derailleur control.
51. [ ] Loosen pinch mechanism. NOTE: With
proper amount of loosening, cable can slide
through pinch mechanism but cannot be
pulled out side of pinch mechanism.
Before starting, the derailleur-control adjusting
33.24 Bending the nose of the inner plate closer to barrel should be four full turns out from fully in, so
the chain can improve the shift to the H chainring. that it can be turned in or out to loosen or tighten the
46. [ ] Shift chain in one chainring and check shift inner-wire tension.
to H chainring again. If shift hesitates, toe 52. [ ] Set derailleur-control adjusting barrel so that
nose further and check shift again. it is four full turns out from fully in.
The fourth hand is a very convenient tool for removing
Cable stressing inner-wire slack, but it can easily make the inner wire
Cable stretch is a commonly misused term. There is much too tight. Watch for any outward motion of
really never enough force on the inner wire to actually
33 – 16
the derailleur, indicating the fourth-hand tool is being 58. [ ] While applying resistance to rear-wheel rota-
squeezed too tightly. tion, turn crank very slowly and continuously.
53. [ ] Using fourth-hand tool, gently pull slack Watch gap between inner face of chain and
out of inner wire, being sure to stop before inner cage plate, and listen for rub between
derailleur begins to move. inner cage plate and chain.
It is easy for the inner wire to slip out of its groove 59. [ ] If rub is not detected: Turn adjusting barrel
in the pinch mechanism while the tension is being reset. 1/2 turn out (counterclockwise), then repeat
steps 56–58 (continue 1/2-turn adjustments
Be certain that the inner wire is in place before torquing
until rub is detected).
the bolt/nut. If it is out of place, then the correct torque
60. [ ] When rub is detected: Turn adjusting bar-
may not keep it secure. rel 1/4 turn in (clockwise), then repeat
54. [ ] Making sure inner wire is still seated in groove steps 56–58 (continue 1/4-turn adjust-
in pinch mechanism, secure pinch nut/bolt. ments until rub is no longer detected).
55. [ ] Put chain in Z/L position, then check for rub NOTE: If step 59 was performed to create
(same technique as step 38). If rub occurs, rub, only 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise should
inner wire was tightened too much in step be needed in this step!
53 (loosen pinch mechanism and repeat 61. [ ] Shift chain back to A/H position and check
from step 53). for rub between chain and outer cage plate.
Indexing adjustment NOTE: If rub did not exist in this position
The concept of making an index adjustment is similar at completion of adjusting H-screw, excess
cable loosening (clockwise adjusting-barrel
to a limit-screw adjustment. There is a range of adjust-
changes) occurred in step 60 or derailleur
ments that work, but the tightest setting is best, since rotation is too tail out.
that allows for the greatest amount of deterioration to In step #62, it is important that the front derailleur
happen before the system becomes non-functional. The gets shifted fully inward. Some derailleur controls take
most effective approach to adjustment, therefore, is to more than one click to get to the most-inward position,
deliberately create symptoms that the inner wire is too so be sure to move the release lever several times to be
tight, then loosen the adjustment by small increments until certain the derailleur is fully inward. These interim clicks
the symptom is eliminated. are found on both Shimano and Campagnolo integrated
Z shift/brake levers and are used for fine-tuning the front-
H derailleur position for certain gear combinations.
62. [ ] Shift chain back to Z/L position and check
for rub between chain and inner cage plate.
Z NOTE: If rub did not exist in these positions
H
at completion of adjusting L-screw, insuf-
ficient cable loosening (clockwise adjusting-
barrel changes) occurred in step 60 or
33.25 Starting chain position when checking the
derailleur rotation is too tail out.
indexing adjustment.
56. [ ] Shift chain to Z/H position. Inner-wire finish
Z Excess length is unsightly and may get caught in the chain.
L
Soldering prevents fraying and therefore allows the cable
to be reused whether a wire cap is used or not. Wire caps
Z M
do not prevent fraying, but they do prevent someone get-
ting poked by the wire.
The fourth-hand tool can be placed on the inner wire
to act as a gauge to determine how much wire to leave.
33.26 Final chain position when checking the indexing
adjustment. This remaining wire does not need to be any more than
what the fourth hand needs to grab.
57. [ ] Double chainring only: Shift chain to L 63. [ ] Trim inner wire with wire cutters 30–35mm
chainring. past pinch mechanism.
Triple chainring only: Shift chain to M
The next step suggests soldering the end of the wire.
chainring.
This is easy to do and prevents fraying. To solder, a solder-
ing gun, thin 40/60 rosin-core solder, and soldering flux
33 – 17
are needed. Put flux on the inner wire. Hold the soldering
gun tip flat against one side of the wire until the flux sizzles L
B H
away. Still holding the soldering gun tip flat against one side
of the wire, hold the tip of the solder against the other
L
side of the wire until the heated wire causes the solder
to melt and flow into the wire. Some wires are specially B M
coated or made of stainless steel and will not accept solder.
In these cases the wire will melt the solder, but the solder 33.28 Correct chain position to check the shift to the
will not flow into the wire. Instead, it beads up and runs L chainring.
off the wire. Using a different flux, such StayKleen (J. W.
65. [ ] Double-chainring: Put chain in B/H position.
Harris, Inc.) or Rubyfluid (Ruby Chemical Co.), may help Triple-chainring: Put chain in B/M position.
stainless-steel wires accept the solder. The best source for The rider will usually shift to the L chainring
these special flux products is a welding-supply store because the pedaling speed is too slow. It is unrealistic
Inner wire to check whether the shift is too slow if the test is per-
Solder formed at a high pedaling speed. Too slow a pedaling
speed is also unrealistic. Keep the pedaling speed close
to 60rpm for the following test.
Solder-gun
tip
66. [ ] While pedaling at no more than 60rpm,
check shift to L chainring.
67. Check one of following results:
33.27 Correct soldering technique. [ ] Shift hesitated or chain did not complete
shift to L chainring; L-screw needs to be
As an easier alternative to using soldering wire, con- turned 1/8 turn counterclockwise.
sider using a flux/solder paste mix (Galaxy Fluxo 50/50 [ ] Shift was good; no further L-screw
or similar). Apply like flux, heat until flux stops bubbling, adjustment needed.
then wipe off while still hot. This method will work on Often it is not possible to fully eliminate hesitation
some coated wires and stainless-steel wires that the solder- in the shift to the L chainring. There are three limits to
wire method does not work on. how much the L screw can be loosened. First, part of the
Wire end caps are sometimes used instead of solder derailleur may bump into itself or the frame, in which case
to prevent fraying. This will not work. Crimping the cap further loosening of the limit screw will not result in addi-
onto the wire frequently causes fraying. A soldered wire will tional inward motion of the derailleur. Second, the cable
not fray when the cap is crimped on. The real function of tension, which has already been set for optimal indexing,
the wire cap is to cover the sharp end of the wire. may create an inner limit that is more restrictive than the
64. [ ] Solder inner-wire end. Put cap on end of screw. Consider a slightly looser indexing adjustment to
inner wire if desired. allow a looser L-screw setting. In both these cases, stop
Fine-tuning shift to inner chainring adjusting the screw when the derailleur stops responding
Occasionally, additional adjustment may be needed to with additional inward motion. If the shift is still unac-
get the chain to shift quickly to the innermost chainring. ceptable, examine other factors, such as derailleur height
The normal way to improve this shift is to sacrifice the and rotation. Third, if the inside clearance in the Z/L gear
.5–1.0mm clearance between the chain and the inner cage combination exceeds 4mm, stop loosening the screw
plate that has been set with the L-screw. Be careful; the because more clearance than 4mm is certain to cause an
clearance should never exceed 4mm. over-shift to occur.
The most difficult time for the chain to shift to the 68. [ ] Repeat step 66 (and 67 if necessary) until
innermost chainring is when the chain is on the outermost shift is good. Stop if derailleur does not
move further or if chain/inner-cage-plate
portion of the rear cogset. The B cog is the furthest-out
clearance reaches 4mm (with chain in Z/L
position that is normal for the chain to be in when shift- position).
ing to the L chainring. When testing the shift to the L After loosening the L-screw to improve a hesitant shift
chainring, the correct starting position is with the chain to the L chainring, it is important to check that the chain
in the B/H position (double-chainring sets) or the B/M does not then over-shift when in other gear combinations.
position (triple-chainring sets). If the L-screw is too loose, the chain will try to shift in
past the L chainring. This is most likely to occur when the
chain is on the inner portion of the rear cogset, because
33 – 18
this position encourages inward motion of the chain. Put longer before service is needed. Therefore, it is to the
the chain in the Z/H position (double-chainring sets) or rider’s and the mechanic’s advantage for the system to
the Z/M position (triple-chainring sets) to test the chain’s have a broad FRA.
tendency to shift in past the L chainring. There are two reasons to measure the FRA. First, it
enables an accurate determination of whether parts might
Z L
H need replacement or cleaning on a used system. Second,
it permits an evaluation of whether a non-recommended
part negatively affects indexing performance.
Z L
M There is no absolute value for an appropriate FRA. It
varies with the brand and quality of equipment, as well as
some other factors. For popular systems, a FRA of about
33.29 Correct chain position when checking for an two quarter turns of the cable-adjusting barrel should be
over-shift to the L chainring. expected of new equipment. One of the most critical
69. [ ] Double chainrings: Shift chain to Z/H position. things to getting a decent FRA is proper rotational align-
Triple chainrings: Shift chain to Z/M position. ment of the derailleur.
70. [ ] While pedaling at no more than 60rpm, shift If evaluating properly set up used equipment that
chain repeatedly to L chainring to check for meets manufacturer’s specifications for compatibility and
tendency of chain to shift too far. the FRA is not at least two quarter turns, then something
If there is not an L-screw setting that eliminates in the system needs to be cleaned or replaced.
slow shifting without introducing over-shifting, then If evaluating any equipment, used or new, that does not
there is likely a problem with chainline (chainrings are meet manufacturer’s specifications for compatibility and
too far out). It could also be that the tail of the derail- the FRA is not at least two quarter turns, then the non-
leur cage needs to be customized (widened) to reduce matched equipment probably needs to be replaced.
the tendency to over-shift. If considering installing equipment on a system that
71. Check one of following options: may not be compatible, measure the FRA before the change
[ ] Chain shows no tendency to over-shift in and again afterward. If it is reduced, then the equipment
step 70; L-screw setting is final. change will downgrade shift performance. If it is still above
[ ] Chain does show tendency to over-shift
one quarter turn, then it may be acceptable even though it is
in step 70; chainline should be checked and
modifying width of tail of derailleur cage
a downgrade of performance. This test process applies to
should be considered. mis-matching chains, derailleurs and shifters, cable systems,
and even derailleurs with chainring sets.
TESTING INDEX MEASURING THE FUNCTIONAL

PERFORMANCE RANGE OF ADJUSTMENT (FRA)
1. [ ] Perform an index adjustment using steps
The performance of any indexing front-derailleur sys- 56–62 of the INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
tem can be tested and measured. The procedures described procedure for front derailleurs (page 33-17).
previously are designed to set the indexing adjustment at 2. [ ] Turn adjusting barrel in 1/4 turn.
the tightest setting that allows for good shifting. If the indexing 3. [ ] Shift chain to A/H position.
system has normal performance, then there are probably 4. Check for chain rubbing outer cage plate and
looser settings for the cable that also allow proper shifts check one of following options:
[ ] No rub; shift chain back to M chainring
into all the gears. The range of adjusting-barrel positions
and repeat steps 2–4.
from the tightest that provides good shifting to the loos- [ ] Chain rubs; inner-wire tension is too
est that will allow shifting into all the gears is called the loose. Record number of turns to create too
functional range of adjustment (FRA). loose symptom here: _____ quarter turns.
The performance of all systems deteriorates with wear 5. [ ] If measuring FRA to evaluate a component
and the accumulation of dirt. When the FRA is narrow, change, install new component and repeat
it will take only a small amount of riding before service steps 1–4.
is needed to restore acceptable shifting. When the FRA
is extremely narrow, finding a correct adjustment at all
is challenging. When the FRA is broad, it will take much
33 – 19
FRONT-DERAILLEUR
SERVICE
The only service performed on front derailleurs is
removal and cleaning of the fully assembled derailleur;
most front derailleurs are not designed to be disassembled
to any significant degree. It is a good idea to perform a few
inspections before installing the derailleur. Before install-
ing the derailleur, inspect for cracks in the mounting clamp
and for roughness or gouges in the inner cage plate.
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING (table 33-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The shift to the H chainring is slow.
Inner wire is not tight enough. Shift to L chainring and check inner-wire tension.
The inner-cage-plate nose needs toe adjustment. Trying bending inner cage-plate nose toward chain.
The H-screw is too tight. This is only the cause if Loosen H-screw only enough to create up to
the chain is also rubbing the outer cage plate when 1.0mm clearance between chain and outer cage
the chain is in the A/H position. plate (when the chain is in the A/H position).
The derailleur is mounted too high. Check and correct derailleur height.
The chainring teeth are worn out. Compare teeth to a new chainring of the same type.
The inner cage plate is chewed up. Inspect plate and replace the derailleur if the cage
plate is damaged.
SYMPTOM: The chain is shifting past the H chainring.
If the derailleur rotation is correct, then the H- screw Check derailleur rotation and tighten H-screw to
is too loose. create no more than 1.0mm clearance between
the cage and the outer cage plate (when the chain
is in the A/H position).
If the clearance between the chain and the outer Check and correct derailleur rotation, then set limit
cage plate is correct, then the derailleur is posi- screws and cable tension again.
tioned with the tail rotated too far in.
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the outer cage plate continuously when the chain is in the A/H position.
The H-screw setting is too tight. Adjust the H-screw so that the chain clears the
outer cage plate by at least .5mm.
The inner-wire tension is too low on an indexing Follow the recommended procedure to set the
derailleur. indexing adjustment for the front derailleur.
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the outer cage plate intermittently.
The chainrings are out of true. Check and align the chainrings until they wobble
less than .5mm.
If clearance is good when checked in the bike No adjustment can be made to correct this condition.
stand, then the chainrings, bottom-bracket spindle,
and/or frame are flexing under load.
There is play in the bottom-bracket bearings. Check and adjust the bottom bracket.
Continued
33 – 20
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TROUBLESHOOTING (table 33-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When the H-screw is loosened to eliminate a rub between the chain and outer cage plate, a
rub develops between the chain and the inner cage plate.
The derailleur’s rotational alignment is wrong. Check and align the derailleur’s rotation so that
the outer cage plate is parallel to the chain when
the chain is in the A/H position.
The chainrings have too much wobble. Check and align the chainrings.
The nose of the inner cage plate is toed toward Reduce the inner-cage-plate nose toe and check
the chain too much. whether the shift to the H chainring is still good
when the chain is on the Y cog in the rear.
SYMPTOM: The shift to the L chainring is slow.
The L-screw is too tight. Loosen the L-screw by 1/8-turn increments until
the shift improves.
The inner-wire tension is too tight. Check and adjust the inner-wire tension.
The derailleur rotation is wrong, with the tail of Check and align the derailleur’s rotation so that
the derailleur too far out compared to the nose. the outer cage plate is parallel to the chain (when
the chain is in the A/H position).
The derailleur is too high, particularly if the Check and correct derailleur height.
chainring set is a triple.
There is excess friction in the cable system. Remove, inspect, and correct any problems with
the cable system.
The derailleur is fouled with dirt. Remove and clean the derailleur.
SYMPTOM: Loosening the L-screw makes no improvement in the slow shift of the chain to the L
chainring.
The inner-wire tension is too tight. Check and adjust the inner-wire tension.
The chainrings are too close to the frame and some Check for interference between the frame and
part of the derailleur is bumping into the seat tube the bottom inside pivot of the derailleur’s paral-
or itself before the cage has moved far enough. lelogram or for a fully compressed parallelogram;
if interference exists, replace the bottom bracket
with one that moves the chainrings as far out as
chainline will allow.
SYMPTOM: The chain is shifting past the L chainring.
The L-screw is too loose. Tighten the L-screw by 1/8-turn increments until
symptom goes away.
If tightening the L-screw results in the chain being Check and correct the chainline error.
slow to shift to the L chainring without eliminating
the over-shift, then the chainline is off (with the
chainrings too far out relative to the rear cogs).
Continued
33 – 21

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: When the L-screw is loosened approximately 1/8 turn to eliminate a slow shift to the L
chainring, then the chain develops a tendency to shift past the L chainring.
The chainline is off, with the chainrings too far out Check and correct the chainline error.
relative to the rear cogs.
The rotation of the derailleur is wrong, with the Check and align the derailleur’s rotation so that
tail end too far in compared to the nose. the outer cage plate is parallel to the chain (when
The tail of the derailleur cage is too narrow. Widen the tail of the cage by changing spacers or
by bending the tail end of the outer plate.
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the inner cage plate continuously when the chain is in the Z/L position.
The L-screw is too tight. Loosen the L-screw.
The inner-wire tension is too tight. Check and loosen the inner-wire tension.
There is excess friction in the cable system. Remove, inspect, and correct problems in cable
system.
SYMPTOM: The rubs the inner cage plate intermittently when the chain is in the Z/L position.
Chainring wobble is excessive. Check and align chainrings.
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the outer cage plate when the chain is on the L chainring and one of the
outer rear cogs.
The L-screw is too loose. Tighten the L-screw as much as possible without
creating a slow shift to the L chainring or a rub
between the chain and inner cage plate (when the
chain is in the Z/L position).
The derailleur’s rotational alignment is off, with Check and align the derailleur’s rotation so that
the tail too far in compared to the nose. the outer cage plate is parallel to the chain (when
If the derailleur is non-indexing, it may not be The operator needs to trim the cage position with
designed to clear the chain in all gear combinations the derailleur control.
without its position being manually trimmed.
The tail of the derailleur cage is too narrow for the Add spacers to the tail of the cage or deform the
gear setup and bike. outer plate at the tail end to widen the tail end
of the cage.
SYMPTOM: The shift from the L chainring to the M chainring is slow.
Inner-wire tension is too low if the derailleur is Check the indexing adjustment of the front derailleur.
indexing.
The teeth on the M chainring are worn out. Compare teeth to a new chainring of the same type.
SYMPTOM: The shift from the H chainring to the M chainring is slow.
Inner-wire tension is too tight if the derailleur is Check the indexing adjustment of the front derailleur.
indexing.
There is excess friction in the cable system. Remove, inspect, and correct problems in the
cable system.
Continued
33 – 22

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the inner cage plate after shifting to the M chainring (the derailleur is indexing).
Inner-wire tension is too tight if the derailleur is Check the indexing adjustment of the front derailleur.
indexing.
There is excess friction in the cable system. Remove, inspect, and correct problems in cable
system.
SYMPTOM: The chain rubs the outer cage plate when the chain is on the M chainring and is shifted to
one of the outer rear cogs.
If the derailleur is indexing, the inner-wire tension Check and correct the indexing adjustment.
is too low.
The derailleur’s rotational alignment is off, with Check and align the derailleur’s rotation so that
the tail too far in compared to the nose. the outer cage plate is parallel to the chain (when
If the derailleur is non-indexing, it may not be The operator needs to trim the cage position with
designed to clear the chain in all gear combinations the derailleur control.
without its position being manually trimmed.
The tail of the derailleur cage is too narrow for the Add spacers to the tail of the cage or deform the
gear setup and bike. outer plate at the tail end to widen the tail end
of the cage.
SYMPTOM: There is a tick once per crank revolution, whenever the chain is on the H chainring.
The tail of the derailleur cage is interfering with The H-screw is too loose or the derailleur is
the crank arm. rotated with the tail too far out.
SYMPTOM: The tail of the derailleur cage hits the crank arm when the derailleur is properly rotated and
the H-screw setting is correct.
The crankset does not provide enough clearance Change derailleurs to one with a flatter outer cage
between the arm and the outer chainring for the plate (no tail offset) or compromise the rotational
derailleur being used. alignment of the derailleur (check for ill conse-
quences if the compromise is made).
SYMPTOM: There is a continuous scraping sound when the chain is on the H chainring, but the chain is
not rubbing either cage plate.
The minimum capacity of the derailleur has been Change the derailleur or the size of the next-to-
exceeded and the teeth of the next-to-outermost outermost chainring.
chainring are rubbing on the inner cage plate.
The outer cage plate is rubbing on a chainring guard. Remove the chainring guard or compromise the
derailleur height or rotation (check for ill conse-
quences if the compromise is made).
SYMPTOM: The chain drags over the cross-piece at the tail of the derailleur cage when the chain is in
the A/L position.
Chain is dangling when there is no load. If the symptom only occurs when chain is not
under load, it is not a problem.
Derailleur is mounted too high. Check and correct derailleur-mounting height.
If symptom occurs when derailleur height is correct Change the derailleur to one that can handle the
and there is load on the chain, the maximum capac- difference in largest and smallest chainring sizes,
ity of derailleur has been exceeded. or change size of chainrings so that the difference
is within the capacity of the derailleur being used.
33 – 23
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
Cast clamp
Lever
Rubber cover (rolled up)
Lever body
Pull-up strap
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
MTB-BRAKE LEVERS 34 – 4
REMOVAL 34 – 4
INSPECTION 34 – 4
INSTALLATION, ALIGNMENT, AND SECURITY 34 – 4
INNER-WIRE ATTACHMENT 34 – 5
DROP-BAR BRAKE LEVERS 34 – 5
FIT OF LEVERS TO DROP BARS 34 – 5
REMOVAL 34 – 6
INSPECTION 34 – 6
INSTALLATION, ALIGNMENT, AND SECURITY 34 – 6
INNER-WIRE ATTACHMENT 34 – 7
BMX/FREESTYLE-BRAKE LEVERS 34 – 7
UPRIGHT-BAR BRAKE LEVERS 34 – 8
BRAKE-LEVER COMPATIBILITY 34 – 8
BRAKE-LEVER TROUBLESHOOTING 34 – 8
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Cable housing: The outer sheath of the cable system.
It stops against the adjusting barrel or a non-adjustable
This chapter is about the levers used to operate the
fitting on the lever body.
brakes. It covers brake levers for flat bars on MTBs, drop-
Cast clamp: The portion of a lever body that wraps
bars on road bikes, BMX/freestyle bars, and upright-bars.
around the handlebar. A cast clamp is usually an integrated
For most of these, several subjects are covered, including
part of the lever body, but sometimes the clamp is made
installation, inner-wire attachment, failures, and service.
in two pieces; half the clamp is cast as part of the lever
body and the other half is attached by two bolts (or a hinge
and a bolt). Some brake levers are fixed to the handlebar
GENERAL INFORMATION with a cast clamp and others are fixed to the handlebar
with a pull-up strap.
Ferrule: Any of a wide variety of shapes of fittings
TERMINOLOGY that adapt the end of the cable housing to fit to the socket
Adjusting barrel: A hollow screw that changes the in the lever body or adjusting barrel. Also called end cap.
effective length of the brake inner wire. It is inserted into Inner wire: The wire that attaches to the lever arm,
the lever body. The brake inner wire goes through the passes through the lever body and adjusting barrel, then
adjusting barrel. The outer end of the adjusting barrel has through the cable housing, and attaches to the brake.
a socket into which the cable housing is inserted. Lever arm: The part of the brake lever that is moved
Barrel locknut: A nut threaded onto the adjusting toward the handlebar to apply the brakes.
barrel between the socket end of the adjusting barrel and Lever body: The part of the brake lever that is fixed
the lever body. This nut is secured against the lever body to to the handlebar and does not move when the lever is
keep the position of the adjusting barrel from changing. operated.
Brake caliper: This is the mechanism at the wheel Lever pivot: The shaft on which the lever arm pivots.
that closes the brake pads against the braking surface when Mounting bolt: A bolt that causes a cast clamp or
pressure is applied to the brake lever. strap clamp to tighten around the handlebar to secure the
Brake lever: The lever mechanism that is operated lever body to the handlebar.
to control the brake calipers at the wheels. Pivot bolt: A lever pivot that threads into the lever
Cable anchor: The part of the lever arm to which the body. It can also thread into a nut fixed to a socket in the
brake inner wire attaches. It might be a simple socket in lever body.
the body of the lever arm or it may be a pivoting mecha- Pivot bushing: A plastic bushing that fits between
nism (with a socket for the inner-wire head) attached to the lever arm and the pivot stud/bolt.
the lever arm. Pivot stud: An unthreaded lever pivot that slides or
presses into the lever body.
Cast clamp Pull-up strap
Pull-up bolt
34.1 An MTB lever with a cast clamp.

34.2 An MTB lever with a pull-up strap.
34 – 1
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
Pull-up bolt: A bolt that holds the lever body to the
pull-up strap. As the bolt is tightened, it secures the body
INDICATIONS
to the handlebar. Symptoms indicating a brake lever
Pull-up nut: The nut into which the pull-up bolt should be replaced
threads. Brake levers need to be replaced for four reasons:
Pull-up strap: A flexible steel strap that holds the bends in the lever at any point, cracks in any part of the
lever body to the handlebar. Some brake levers are fixed lever, stripped threads for the mounting bolt in the cast
to the handlebar with a pull-up strap, while others are body, or excessive play in the lever pivot that cannot be
fixed to the handlebar with a cast clamp. See figures 34.2 adjusted out or repaired by replacing pivot bushings.
(page 34-1) and 34.3.
Strap clamp: This is like a cast clamp with a hinge Symptoms indicating brake levers need
or hook on one end, but the separate part that wraps service
around the side of the handlebar opposite the lever body Brake levers need service for many reasons:
is a semi-flexible plate of metal, rather than a rigid casting. Pull-up mechanisms fail and need to be replaced.
The strap clamp is found most often on BMX/freestyle Levers operate roughly because of dirt in the
bikes and on bikes with upright bars, such as are found pivots.
on classic 3-speeds. Levers operate roughly because of lack of lubri-
cation in the pivots.
Jerky brake operation or squeaks indicate that the
cable anchors need lubrication.
Bent adjusting barrels should be replaced.
Lever Slop in the lever pivots indicates that the pivots
need adjustment or that the bushings need to
Rubber cover (rolled up)
be replaced.
In some types of levers, sticky lever action might
Lever body
indicate that a bent pivot stud needs replace-
ment.
Pull-up strap
Symptoms indicating a brake lever
34.3 A typical brake lever for drop bars on a road bike. needs to be repositioned
The position of the brake levers is critical to the safe
operation of the brakes. The brake levers need to be read-
Strap clamp ily accessible from any normal riding position, and they
should be positioned so that the rider can operate the
Hinge/hook levers with a minimum of hand and wrist contortion.
One way to identify whether brake levers need to be
repositioned is to ride the bike and operate the levers from
all normal hand positions on the handlebar. If some hand
positions provide dramatically easier access to the levers
than others, then the levers should be repositioned. If the
wrist must be cocked too close to its limit of range of
motion to operate the brake lever, then a better position
should be found.
You should also review the positioning guidelines
34.4 An inexpensive BMX/freestyle lever (more expen- offered in this chapter.
sive levers are similar in design to MTB levers).
Symptoms indicating a brake lever
needs to be secured
PREREQUISITES The issues of lever security are different for brake
To install a brake lever, it is necessary to know how to levers on road bikes with drop bars and for brake levers
adjust the brake. In many cases it is also necessary to know on off-road bikes. On drop-bar road bikes, the lever bod-
how to install handlebar coverings, such as tape or grips. ies are often used like handlebar extensions and twisted
34 – 2
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
with great force, but on all other types of bikes the lever Interference with derailleur controls
bodies are never grasped. For this reason, brake levers on Brake levers and derailleur controls are often mounted
drop bars should be virtually rigid on the handlebar. Any close together on MTB handlebars. The manufacturers of
time the lever rotates easily around a drop handlebar, the each cannot anticipate all the designs that might exist or
lever should be secured to the limit of the equipment. be created. Consequently, there is sometimes interference
For all other brake-lever types, there is a desirable degree between the brake lever and the derailleur control, even if
of freedom to rotate; freedom to rotate prevents damage both are mounted correctly. Sometimes a minor change in
to the brake levers when they experience impact. More the position of the derailleur control is all that is needed. Do
details on lever security are provided in the instructions not compromise the brake lever position. On rare occasions,
for lever installation. it might be necessary to change either the brake lever or the
Handlebar and stem replacement derailleur control to eliminate this interference.
To replace a stem, at least one brake lever must be Compatibility with brake calipers
removed and then properly installed on the bars. To Brake levers may be incompatible with some brake
replace the handlebars, both levers must be removed and calipers. The distance from the center of the lever pivot
then properly installed on the bars. to the center of the cable anchor determines the amount
General brake service of inner wire that will be moved per degree of lever arm
Any time a mechanic services the brakes in any way, motion. If a replacement brake lever has a significantly
the brake levers should be given a thorough inspection. larger dimension between the lever pivot and cable anchor,
If the levers are damaged, they should be replaced. If then the lever will move the pads much more quickly to the
misaligned, they should be aligned. The levers should braking surface. This will result in greater maximum power
be torqued to the recommended torque and checked for but less ability to modulate the brake. If a replacement
security. If operating roughly, the levers should be cleaned brake lever has a significantly smaller dimension between
or lubricated. the lever pivot and cable anchor, then the lever will move
the pads much less quickly to the braking surface. This
will result in less maximum power but greater ability to
TOOL CHOICES modulate the brake.
The only special tool recommended for brake-lever Failure of pull-up-strap system
service is a Park SD-1. This is a T-handled screwdriver with Pull-up-strap systems are prone to several types of
a hollow-ground tip. This tool is essential for the proper failure that prevent the lever from securing fully.
installation of slotted-head pull-up bolts. Some types of pull-up nuts are not fixed to the pull-up
strap. When the system has too much slack, the pull-up nut
TIME AND DIFFICULTY can disengage, resulting in a failure of the lever to secure
and damage to the pull-up strap. The strap is damaged
Installing or servicing a brake lever is a relatively easy
job that should only take 1–2 minutes. Adjusting the brakes because the nut usually remains engaged to one end of
because a brake lever has been replaced requires substan- the strap; when the nut is pulled up, only one end of the
tially more work than simply installing a brake lever. strap is pulled, which destroys its symmetry.
A pull-up strap can crack or break where it joins the
pull-up nut. This damage cannot be seen except when the
COMPLICATIONS brake lever is off the bar and disassembled.
Fit of brake levers to different-size bars The threads on the pull-up nut or pull-up bolt often
For most types of brake levers, fit to the handlebar strip. This damage is hidden inside the lever.
is simple. For example, if installing a brake lever on an Levers will not secure
MTB handlebar, use an MTB brake lever; fit is assured. Levers may fail to secure for a variety of reasons due
Brake levers that fit on road-bike handlebars are more to fit problems or parts failure. In some cases, the lever
complicated. There are three basic sizes of drop bars and will fail to secure adequately even when everything is the
different pull-up straps available to fit the different sizes correct size and nothing has failed. This can be caused by
of bars. For more information on the sizes of straps and two things. Plastic lever bodies do not offer enough fric-
handlebars, see table 34-1 (page 34-6). tion against the bar to prevent slippage. Chrome-plated-
steel bars are more slippery than aluminum bars and can
keep levers from properly securing. The combination of
34 – 3
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
a plastic lever body and a chrome-plated-steel handlebar 6. [ ] Pull lever arm toward handlebar, align inner
is certain to be a problem. Without changing the equip- wire with slot in cable anchor, then pull
ment, there is no solution. The mechanic must make sure inner-wire head out of cable anchor.
that everything is in working order and the maximum 7. [ ] Loosen mounting bolt or pull-up bolt.
8. [ ] Slide lever off end of handlebar.
allowable torque is used.
ABOUT THE REST INSPECTION

9. [ ] Inspect lever body and lever arm for cracks.
OF THIS CHAPTER 10. [ ] Inspect lever arm for bends.
The rest of this chapter is divided into six sections. Loose lever pivots detract from the rider’s feeling of
The first section is MTB-BRAKE LEVERS. It is followed, control. Wiggle the end of the lever arm side to side to
in order, by DROP-BAR BRAKE LEVERS, BMX/FREESTYLE- check for excessive play. A couple of millimeters is normal,
BRAKE LEVERS, UPRIGHT-BAR BRAKE LEVERS, BRAKE- but more than that should be eliminated, if possible. Some
LEVER COMPATIBILITY, and finally BRAKE-LEVER TROU- MTB lever pivots are adjustable and some are not. If the
BLESHOOTING. pivot bolt threads into a nut in a socket, then the lever
Detailed information about removal, installation, pivot is probably not adjustable. If the nut is exposed, then
inspection, and installation is provided about MTB brake the pivot is adjustable. To adjust, loosen the nut, turn the
levers and brake levers for drop-bars on road bikes. For pivot bolt clockwise, then secure the nut while holding the
BMX/freestyle levers and levers for upright-bars, only bolt stationary. If the adjustment is made too tight, then
significant differences from the other types of levers the lever will not return when released (once the brake
are covered. The BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS chapter cov- system is fully set up).
ers setup of the cable system. Individual chapters about 11. [ ] Inspect lever pivot for looseness and adjust
different types of brake calipers cover the setup of the if possible.
calipers and attachment of the cable system.
LUBRICATION
12. [ ] Oil both sides of lever arm at lever pivot.
MTB-BRAKE LEVERS 13. [ ] Oil cable-anchor pivots or inside cable-head

socket in lever arm if socket is in aluminum
For purposes of installation and removal, MTB-brake casting.
levers come in several varieties. These are closed-clamp 14. [ ] Grease adjusting-barrel threads if not already
types, open-clamp types, closed-strap types, and open- obviously greased.
strap types. The open-clamp and open-strap types can be If the lever will be secured, it is critical that the
removed and installed without sliding the lever over the mounting-bolt/pull-up-bolt threads are lubricated, because
end of the bar. The closed-clamp and closed-strap varieties the recommended torques are based on the assumption
must be slid off and on the end of the bar. Since the vast that the threads are lubricated. If the threads are visible
majority of MTB-brake levers are of the “closed” variety, and clearly have lubrication on them, it is reasonable to
the following procedure assumes this type. assume that no more need be added. If the threads are
NOTE: If working on a bike with already installed not visible or no lubrication can be seen, even if it means
levers, go to the section of this procedure removing the bolt, the threads should be lubricated.
called INSPECTION for used bikes or LUBRICATION 15. [ ] Oil mounting-bolt or pull-up-bolt threads if
for new bikes. not obviously lubricated already.
REMOVAL INSTALLATION, ALIGNMENT,

1. [ ] Remove grip(s).
2. [ ] If mounted outward from brake lever, AND SECURITY
remove derailleur control. There are right and left brake levers for MTBs. When
3. [ ] Unhook cable system from brake caliper(s). the lever is on the correct side, the mounting bolt will be
4. [ ] Align slots in lever body, adjusting barrel, on the back/bottom face of the lever. If the wire head is
and barrel locknut. installed in a socket that is on one face of the lever arm, this
5. [ ] Pull housing out of end of adjusting barrel socket also will be on the back/bottom face of the lever.
and drop inner wire through slots in lever
body, adjusting barrel, and barrel locknut.
34 – 4
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
16. [ ] If derailleur control is to be mounted inward
of brake lever (most non-integral derailleur
controls except twist grips), install it on bar
first, but do not secure.
17. [ ] Slide brake lever over end of handlebar.
18. [ ] Install twist-grip-type derailleur control onto
handlebar (if any).
19. [ ] Install grip fully onto bar.
20. [ ] Position brake lever as far outward as grip 45º
(and twist grip) will allow. (Some old-style
brake levers are so long that this position-
ing would place the tip of the lever arm past
the outward end of the grip. In this case,
position the brake lever as far outward as
possible without the tip of the lever extend-
ing beyond the outward end of the grip.)
54 3 2 1
76 34.6 Set the rotational position of the lever so that the
plane that the lever swings in is 45° down from flat.
25. [ ] Lever with cast clamp: Secure mounting bolt
to 35–60in-lbs.
As far out Lever body held on by pull-up strap: Secure
as possible pull-up bolt to 60–70in-lbs.
26. [ ] Viewing from rider’s perspective, check
that both levers extend in front of handlebar
equally, indicating that their rotational posi-
tions match.
34.5 Set the lateral position of the brake lever as close INNER-WIRE ATTACHMENT
to the grip as possible. 27. [ ] Align slots in adjusting barrel and barrel lock-
21. [ ] Gently secure mounting bolt or pull-up bolt. nut with slot in bottom of lever body.
(Lever should still easily rotate around bar.) 28. [ ] Pull lever to grip and place inner-wire head in
To properly align the brake levers, the bike needs cable anchor.
29. [ ] Swing wire up into slots in lever body,
to be at the angle that it would be when sitting on level
adjusting barrel, and barrel locknut.
ground. This can be done several ways. If the bike is 30. [ ] Turn adjusting barrel or locknut so that slot
known to have a level top tube, then use a dial protrac- no longer lines up with slot in lever body.
tor to check that the top tube is parallel to the ground.
If it is not known whether the top tube is level or it is
known that it is not, then use a tape measure to measure
from the center of each axle to the ground. If the axles
are equidistant from the ground, then the bike is in the
DROP-BAR BRAKE LEVERS
“on-ground” position.
22. [ ] Put bike at angle it would be when sitting on FIT OF LEVERS TO DROP BARS
level ground. Drop-style handlebars are made in several dimensions
23. [ ] Place dial protractor on lever body so that at the point the brake levers mount. Therefore, the pull-up
dial is visible from side of bike. (If lever body straps used for mounting brake levers to drop bars also
has no flat surface, hold protractor so that come in a variety of sizes. The nature of a pull-up strap
its base is parallel to the plane in which the
permits it to work only within a limited range of handle-
lever arm swings.)
24. [ ] Adjust lever position until protractor reads bar dimensions. No pull-up strap will work across the full
45° (±5° is acceptable range). range of available handlebar diameters.
To determine the handlebar dimension, measure the
diameter of the bar at the end. Measuring in the curve where
the brake lever mounts will yield inaccurate results. Use a
caliper and measure to the nearest tenth of a millimeter.
34 – 5
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
The size of pull-up straps cannot be determined by
measurement because of their flexible nature. Virtually all
LUBRICATION
12. [ ] Oil both sides of lever arm at lever pivot.
straps are marked with a size. If there is no size on a strap, 13. [ ] Oil cable-anchor pivots.
then a trial-and-error process is necessary to determine 14. [ ] Grease adjusting-barrel threads if not already
whether the strap will fit the bar. A strap that is too small obviously greased (if any).
will be difficult to slide over the end of the bar, even when If the lever is to be secured, it is critical that the pull-
the pull-up bolt is fully loosened. A strap that is too large up-bolt threads are lubricated, because the recommended
will not secure the lever, even when the maximum torque torques are based on the assumption that the threads are
is put on the pull-up bolt. lubricated. If the threads are visible and clearly have
PULL-UP STRAP FIT (table 34-1) lubrication on them, it is reasonable to assume that no
Strap size Fits handlebar sizes more need be added. If the threads are not visible or no
lubrication can be seen, even if it means removing the
22.0mm 22.0–22.2mm
bolt, the threads should be lubricated.
23.5mm 23.5–23.8mm 15. [ ] Oil pull-up-bolt threads if not obviously lubri-
23.8mm 23.5–23.8mm cated already.
23.8–24.2mm 23.8–24.2mm
24.2mm 24.0–24.2mm
INSTALLATION, ALIGNMENT,
NOTE: If working on a bike with already installed
levers, go to the section of this procedure called AND SECURITY
INSPECTION for used bikes or LUBRICATION for new There are right and left brake levers for road bikes.
bikes. If you’re mounting an aero’ lever, in nearly all cases the
socket for the housing in the base of the lever will be on
the inward face. Some inexpensive levers have auxiliary
REMOVAL levers attached or mounts for the future attachment of
1. [ ] Remove handlebar covering.
auxiliary levers. The auxiliary levers (or mounts for them)
2. [ ] Remove derailleur control if mounted in end
of handlebar.
go on the inward side of the lever. Levers with integrated
3. [ ] Unhook or detach cable system from brake shifters should be the easiest to figure out. When the
caliper(s). lever is correctly mounted, the shifter housing-stop
4. [ ] Pull housing away from brake lever a few should point inward.
inches. 16. [ ] Slide brake lever over end of handlebar.
5. [ ] Push inner wire into brake-lever body to 17. [ ] Slide lever up bar until it is obviously too
unseat inner-wire head from cable anchor. high.
6. [ ] Manipulate inner wire to move it through 18. [ ] Place straight edge flat on bottom side of
slot in cable anchor and remove inner wire handlebar so that it extend forward of han-
from brake lever, or push inner wire fully dlebar by several inches.
through cable anchors that have no slot. The brake-lever-height setting described in step
7. [ ] Loosen pull-up bolt until it almost disengages #19 creates equal access to the lever, whether the rider
the pull-up nut. is riding on the tops of the bars or on the drops. Some
8. [ ] Slide lever off end of handlebar. riders might prefer access from one riding position more
than another. It is acceptable to move the tip of the lever
INSPECTION up or down 1/2" from the position in step #19, at the
customer’s request, only. Deviations greater than 1/2" will
9. [ ] Inspect lever body and lever arm for cracks.
10. [ ] Inspect lever arm for bends. make it too difficult to access the brake lever from one
Loose lever pivots detract from the rider’s feeling of of the riding positions and should not be done even at
control. Wiggle the end of the lever arm side to side to customer request.
check for excessive play. A couple of millimeters is normal, 19. [ ] Slide brake lever down until tip of lever
but more than that should be eliminated, if possible. Most reaches straight edge (with lever arm fully
released or fully forward).
drop-bar brake levers have bushings between the lever arm
and the pivot. That bushing can wear out, but replacement
bushings are only sporadically available.
11. [ ] Inspect lever pivot for looseness and replace
bushings if possible.
34 – 6
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
24. [ ] When both levers are installed, lay straight
edge across both lever bodies, and compare
straight edge to flat center section of han-
dlebar to see if brake-lever heights are equal.
X. H
T.
MA
2" A B
+1/ 2"
– /
1
34.9 If lever heights are equal, the straight edge

34.7 Acceptable brake-lever height. should end up parallel to the center section of the han-
20. [ ] Adjust tip of lever arm up or down no more dlebar (A and B should be equal).
than 1/2" to suit rider preference, if any. 25. [ ] When both levers are secure, press them
21. [ ] Gently secure pull-up bolt. (Lever should still firmly toward each other with force of
easily rotate around bar.) approximately 75 pounds to check security.
Lever rotation affects access to the lever as well. If
the levers are rotated in, they are harder to use. If they
are rotated out, they tend to get bumped and hit more. INNER-WIRE ATTACHMENT
The best way to see the lever rotation is to get a view- 26. [ ] Aero’ levers only: Compress lever arm,
point from high above the handlebars. The imaginary insert inner wire through cable anchor, then
insert inner wire through lever body.
centerline of each brake lever should be parallel to the
Non-aero’ levers only: Compress lever arm,
imaginary centerline through the stem (see figure 34.8).
insert inner-wire head through hole in top
If the wheel is in, it can be used as a reference, instead of lever body, then hook inner wire into
of the stem. cable anchor.
BMX/FREESTYLE-BRAKE
LEVERS
For most purposes, BMX/freestyle-brake levers are
the same as MTB-brake levers. Refer to the earlier section
about MTB-brake levers for full information. The pri-
mary differences are with the rotational angle and with the
torque required for levers that use a strap clamp, instead
of the cast clamp found on MTB-brake levers. For these
different specifications, see the following special notes.
NOTE: The rotational position of a BMX/freestyle
lever should be so that the lever is rotated
down 25–30° from horizontal.
34.8 Brake lever rotational alignment. NOTE: Many BMX/freestyle levers have a strap
22. [ ] Rotate brake lever so that centerline of lever clamp that holds the lever to the handlebar.
body is parallel to centerline of stem. The torque on the bolt that tightens this type
23. [ ] Hex- or hex-socket-head bolts: Secure pull- of strap should be 25–35in-lbs.
up bolt to 70–85in-lbs.
Slot-head bolts: Secure bolt to equivalent
of 18–24lbs applied simultaneously at both
ends of a Park SD-1 screwdriver handle.
34 – 7
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
UPRIGHT-BAR BRAKE Relying on these arbitrary labels is unnecessary.

Instead, a single measurement can be taken on a brake
LEVERS lever to determine whether it has a high-leverage ratio or
a low-leverage ratio. Two measurements are needed to cal-
Upright bars are the classic type of handlebar most
culate a ratio. These measurements are the distance from
often found on 3-speed bicycles. They are also called
the lever pivot to the center of the cable-anchor point
tourist bars. Upright bars might also be found on bikes
(see figure 34.10) and the distance from the cable-anchor
with derailleurs.
pivot to the end of the brake lever. The first measurement
The brake levers that go on these handlebars are unique
is all that is needed to identify the leverage ratio, since the
but simple. The general principles that apply to other types
second measurement is a relative constant.
of brake levers apply to these as well. When installing or
If the lever-pivot to cable-anchor point measurement is
aligning these brake levers, use the following guidelines.
25mm or less, the lever is a high-leverage-ratio brake lever
1. The rotational angle should be 15º–30º out from
suitable only for use with cantilever brakes, U-brakes, and
directly below the grip.
road-style sidepull/dual-pivot brakes. If the lever-pivot to
2. If retained by a pull-up strap, the pull-up-bolt
cable-anchor point measurement is 30mm or more, the lever
torque should be 60–70in-lbs (15–17lbs at both
is a low-leverage-ratio brake lever suitable only for use with
ends of a Park SD-1 screwdriver handle).
MTB linear-pull brakes and mechanical disc brakes.
3. If retained by a strap clamp, torque bolt to
25–35in-lbs.
BRAKE-LEVER
COMPATIBILITY
Not all brake levers are compatible with all types
of brakes. Cantilever brakes, U-brake, and road-style
sidepull/dual-pivot brakes require a relatively high-
leverage-ratio brake lever. MTB linear-pull and mechan-
ical disc brakes require a relatively low-leverage-ratio
brake lever. Lever ratios are not published, but brake
levers are often labeled as linear-pull compatible or V-brake
compatible. When a brake lever is not labeled in one of 34.10 Lever pivot to cable-anchor point on an MTB
these two ways, it probably is not a low-leverage-ratio lever and a road lever.
lever, but this is not a reliable guideline.
BRAKE-LEVER TROUBLESHOOTING (table 34-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Brake lever will not secure on the handlebars at the recommended torque.
Pull-up strap is the wrong size. Check strap and bar size, then look in table 34-1
(page 34-6) for fit.
Pull-up-bolt or mounting-bolt threads have seized. If the threads are seized, the bolt will be difficult
to loosen. Use penetrating oil and force the bolt
loose, then replace damaged parts.
Lever body is plastic; normal security cannot be Advise the customer of the problem and recom-
achieved. mend replacement of the brake levers.
Handlebar is chrome-plated steel; normal secu- Advise the customer of the problem and recom-
rity cannot be achieved with a pull-up-strap-type mend replacement of either the handlebars or
brake lever. brake levers.
Continued
34 – 8
34 – BRAKE LEVERS
BRAKE-LEVER TROUBLESHOOTING (table 34-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Mounting bolt or pull-up bolt will not reach recommended torque.
Threads of bolt or nut have stripped. Replace the damaged part.
Threads in lever-body casting have stripped. In some cases, a thread coil can be installed. If
there is not enough material or access, replace the
brake lever.
Pull-up strap has failed. Replace the pull-up strap.
Lever body is cracked. Inspect the lever body for cracks. Replace the
brake lever if any cracks are found.
Pull-up stud is cracked. Disassemble the lever and replace the pull-up stud.
SYMPTOM: Brake lever will not return fully when released.
Cable system or caliper is causing the problem. Detach the inner wire from the brake lever and
see if the problem persists. If not, the problem is
with the cable system or caliper (see appropriate
troubleshooting charts for these items).
Adjustable pivot is too tight. Loosen the pivot adjustment (if adjustable).
Lever pivot needs oil. Oil the lever pivot.
Lever pivot needs cleaning. Remove and clean the brake lever.
Rubber cover is interfering with lever. Peel back the cover to check if the symptom per-
sists. If it does, then reposition or trim the cover.
Pivot area of lever arm is bent. Remove the lever arm and inspect for a bend in
the pivot area. If there is one, replace the lever
arm or the brake lever.
Pivot stud is bent. Remove and inspect the pivot stud. Replace it if it
is bent.
SYMPTOM: Pull-up strap fails when pull-up bolt is correctly torqued.
Error in using or reading torque wrench. Check the recommended torque value and the set-
ting on the torque wrench, if the torque wrench is
the preset type.
Pull-up bolt was previously over-torqued or torqued Replace the damaged parts and use the recom-
repeatedly in the past. mended torque.
SYMPTOM: Brake lever does not operate smoothly.
Lever-arm pivots need oil. Oil on both sides of the lever-arm pivots.
Cable-anchor socket or anchor pivots need oil. Oil the cable-anchor socket or the cable-anchor
pivots.
Cable system or caliper is the source of the problem. Inspect cable system and caliper if oiling the brake
lever does not solve the problem.
SYMPTOM: A squeak (or similar noise) comes from the brake lever when it is operated.
Cable-anchor socket or anchor pivot needs oil. Oil the cable-anchor socket.
SYMPTOM: Lever arm is bent.
Impact from crash has bent lever arm. Replace the part or the whole brake lever.
34 – 9
35 – BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS
End view Flat-wound with sheath cut away
End view Round-wound with sheath cut away

CABLE TYPES AND COMPATIBILITY 35 – 2
INNER WIRES 35 – 2
INNER-WIRE HEADS 35 – 3
HOUSINGS 35 – 3
SIZING AND ROUTING HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 3
SIZING HOUSING TO IMPROVE BRAKE PERFORMANCE 35 – 3
MTB-BRAKE-LEVER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 4
DROP-BAR/AERO’-BRAKE-LEVER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 5
DROP-BAR/NON-AERO’-BRAKE-LEVER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 6
BMX/FREESTYLE-BRAKE-LEVER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 7
UPRIGHT-BAR BRAKE-LEVER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 7
REAR-HOUSING-STOP LOOPS 35 – 7
REAR-CALIPER HOUSING LOOPS 35 – 8
PREPARATION AND INSTALLATION OF THE CABLE SYSTEM 35 – 8
HOUSING-END FINISH 35 – 8
INSTALLING FERRULES 35 – 9
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Inner wire: The wire that is attached to the brake
lever, passes through housing on the way to the brake,
This chapter is about setting up and servicing the
and then attaches to the brake. At times it may just
cables that operate the brakes. It covers selection of the be called the wire.
inner wire and housing, as well as the sizing and prepara- Inner-wire head: The barrel-shaped or mushroom-
tion of the housings. Attaching the inner wire to the brake shaped bead at the end of the inner wire. It fits in a socket
lever is covered in the previous chapter. Attaching the inner in the brake-lever arm.
wires to the brakes and adjusting the tension on the inner Wound housing: This type of housing, typically
wire is covered in the RIM BRAKES chapter (at different used on brakes, consists of a single coil wound from one
locations for different types of calipers). end of the housing to the other. It is usually covered in
a plastic sheath and often has a liner inside. To identify
it, look at the cut end. It will look like the end of a coil
GENERAL INFORMATION spring. If not sure after looking at the end, strip off the
plastic sheath for a few millimeters at the end. Whether it
is a single coil (wound) or multi-strand (compressionless)
TERMINOLOGY will become clear.
Adjusting barrel: A hollow screw that changes the
effective length of the brake inner wire. It is inserted
into the lever body. The brake inner wire goes through the
PREREQUISITES
Whenever cables are serviced or installed, brake
adjusting barrel. The outer end of the adjusting barrel has adjustments must be done.
a socket into which the cable housing is inserted.
Cable: The term cable is used to refer to the complete
cable system, including the inner wire, housings, and fit- INDICATIONS
tings. The term cable is often used to refer to the inner wire
as well. To avoid confusion, this book will always use cable
Maintenance
Cables just wear out. There may be no overt symptoms,
to describe the whole system and inner wire to describe the but a cable can operate sluggishly just because it is old. Cables
wire portion of the cable system. are vital to brake performance and are relatively inexpensive.
Compressionless housing: This is housing that has It is no extravagance to regularly replace the cable system,
stiff wires embedded in it that run along the length of the particularly if you are adjusting a brake.
housing to reduce compression. To identify this housing,
look at the cut end. Many wire ends will be seen. This housing Difficult brake operation
is used exclusively on derailleur systems! When the lever becomes difficult to operate and
Drawn wire: Wires that have been drawn through a lubing the brake lever does not solve the problem, it is
die to change their shape. The process flattens the indi- likely there is a cable problem.
vidual strands of the inner wire so that the surface of the Rusty or damaged inner wire
inner wire is smoother. Inner wires fail because they get rusty, fray, become
Ferrule: A cap that fits on the end of the housing to kinked, or because the wire sheath tears on a Gore-Tex cable.
improve its fit into a housing stop. Also called end cap. Replace all wires with these problems, even when the damage
Housing: The outer sheath that covers portions of the does not seem to be in a critical location.
inner wire. It is used to guide the inner wire around bends
and to connect points that move in relation to each other. Damaged and dirty housings
Housing liner: A plastic sheath inside the housing Housings fail because they get kinked or bent and
that is used to reduce friction. It is almost always fixed because the plastic outer sheath cracks. Dirt can also get
inside a housing and substantially increase friction.
permanently in place.
Housings get kinked or bent because of impact and
Housing stop: A socket-like fitting on the frame,
over-extension, but they also get damaged in the same way
brake lever, or brake. The stop is the point where the
because they are mis-sized. Kinked and bent housings should
housing ends and the inner wire continues.
35 – 1
be replaced, unless the housing is too long and the damage with different braking systems. The next section is SIZ-
is confined to an area that will be cut off. ING HOUSING LOOPS, which covers how to determine the
Dirt gets inside housings and increases friction. There optimum length of housing loops to either brake and to
is no good way to inspect for it, and there is no good way brake levers of all types. The final section is PREPARATION
to clean it out. It could be abrasive particles embedded in AND INSTALLATION OF THE CABLE SYSTEM, which cov-
the inner liner. This hidden dirt is the likely reason that ers housing-end finishing, cable-system lubrication, and
a used cable system that looks fine still does not feel as routing considerations.
good as when new. This hidden dirt is reason enough to Unlike most chapters in this book, there is no section
routinely replace cable systems when adjusting brakes. on troubleshooting. This is because cable problems are
Handlebar and stem changes covered in the RIM BRAKES chapter (page 36-44).
When the handlebar width, stem height, and stem
length are changed, the loops of housings at the brake
levers need to be re-sized. If the brake levers are moved
further away because of wider bars or longer stem, it usu- CABLE TYPES AND
ally means cable replacement.
COMPATIBILITY
TOOL CHOICES INNER WIRES
The only tools required for installation of cables are
appropriate tools for cutting inner wire and housing. Pre- Inner wires differ by diameter, type of surface, and
ferred tools are in bold. Tools are preferred because of a type of construction.
balance among versatility, quality, and economy. Inner-wire diameter
CABLE TOOLS (table 35-1) Wire diameter is important in regard to compatibility
Tool Fits and considerations with the housing. Conventional housing has a 5mm outside
7–8" diagonal side Cuts wound housing diameter; wires of 1.5–1.8mm diameter will fit this size.
cutter, any brand Oversize brake-cable housing has a diameter of 6mm and
Felco C7 Deluxe Cuts inner wires and com- works with inner wires with a 2.0mm diameter.
pressionless housing; most There are no real advantages to the oversize-cable sys-
durable and precise tem, and manufacturers don’t design cable systems this way
Jag CC-167 Cuts inner wires and com- any more. Some older bikes have brake-lever fittings and
pressionless housing frame fittings that are designed for the 6.0mm housing. If
Park CN-10 Cuts inner wires and com- this is the case, then it is best to use the oversize cables.
pressionless housing, Inner-wire surface
includes ferrule crimper Unlike indexing-derailleur systems, brake systems will
Pedro’s 6451250 Cuts inner wires and com- work adequately no matter what the quality of the cable is.
pressionless housing To optimize performance, however, a smooth cable surface
Shimano TL-CT10 Cuts inner wires and com- is preferred to a rough surface. One way to ensure that the
pressionless housing, wire is smooth enough is to use drawn inner wires, which have
includes ferrule crimper the smoothest surface available. Most drawn inner wires will
United Bicycle Removes burr from filed or be marketed as such, but their appearance will identify them
Tool MS-BURR ground housing end as well. Drawn inner wires have a more reflective surface,
VAR 990 Cuts inner wires and com- and the individual strands are much less obvious. When
pressionless housing looking at drawn inner wire, instead of seeing individual
strands, it just looks like there are tiny grooves spiraling
ABOUT THE REST around the inner wire. Drawn inner wire also feels much
smoother when pulled between the fingertips.
OF THIS CHAPTER Inner-wire construction
The rest of this chapter is divided into several sections.
The first is CABLE TYPES AND COMPATIBILITY, which cov- Most inner wires today are a simple twisted wire. Sev-
ers the different types of inner wires and housings used eral strands are laid parallel and then twisted together all at
for brake systems and compatibility of the different types once. There is another construction, which might be called
braided. It is not actually braided but has that appearance.
35 – 2
It is made by making several very small twisted-wire cables exposed metal inside. The ones without a liner generate
and then twisting these together to make a larger cable. more friction and are more likely to rust solid, rendering
This braided (or double-twisted) inner wire is more supple the brake useless. Wound housing might be “flat wound”
than the same thickness of a simple twist. For this reason, or “round wound.” The flat-wound variety is more com-
most 2.0mm inner wires are the braided type. mon, stiffer, and stronger; flat-wound housing is made
from wire that is flat.
INNER-WIRE HEADS End view Flat-wound with sheath cut away
Barrel heads
The barrel-headed inner wire is used on virtually all
brake levers except those found on brake levers made for
drop-bars on road bikes. This type has a cylinder-shaped
head that is usually slightly longer than its diameter. The End view Round-wound with sheath cut away
wire goes into the side of the cylinder.
35.3 Flat-wound and round-wound housing types.

35.1 Inner wire with barrel head.
The most common barrel diameter is approximately
7.0mm. An 8.0mm-size barrel has been made, but wires
with this size barrel are probably very difficult to find. The
7.0mm size can be used, instead.
SIZING AND ROUTING
The length of the barrel also varies. Even if the barrel
protrudes from the socket or anchor, it is not a problem
HOUSING LOOPS
unless the barrel interferes with the lever body. Barrels that
are too long can easily be filed shorter. SIZING HOUSING TO IMPROVE
Mushroom heads BRAKE PERFORMANCE
Mushroom heads are used almost exclusively on Sizing the housing loops is critical to good brake
brake levers made for use on drop-bars for road bikes. performance for several reasons. The shorter the housing,
The mushroom head typically has two diameters. The the less friction there will be on the inner wire (to a point).
inner wire comes out the end of a narrower cylinder with When the housing is too short, then it bends more, which
a 3.5–4.0mm diameter that mushrooms out to 6.0mm increases friction and increases compression under load.
at the end. The additional compression creates lost brake-lever motion.
Tight bends should be avoided because they cause the
coils in the housing to open more. When the brake inner
wire is under load, these coils compress, which causes lost
lever motion and effort.
35.2 Inner wire with mushroom head. The housing loop at the brake lever must also be
sized to permit a normal range of motion of the han-
dlebar or the housings will be damaged when the bar
HOUSINGS moves to its limit.
Housing for brake systems must of be the wound The goal, when sizing any housing loop, is to make
variety. The compressionless variety is not designed to it as short as possible without creating any abrupt bends
withstand the loads that are put on brake inner wires. or limiting the handlebar’s range of motion.
Catastrophic failure could result if compressionless housings were Most factories set up new bikes with brake-lever
used on a brake system! housings that are much longer than is ideal. This may be
Wound housings have a metal strip that is wound because it allows use of the same cable sets on multiple
like a coil spring. Most wound housing has a plastic liner bike sizes, or it may be because the factory anticipates
inside to reduce friction, but some cheap varieties are that the shop may end up putting on a longer stem for
35 – 3
the customer (requiring more cable length). Unfortunately, 1 – Rotate to limit 3 – Trim here
bikes routinely set up with housings too long train the (180º max.) 2 – Pull tight
customer’s (and the mechanic’s) eyes to accept something
wrong as normal. Do not let any preconceptions about
what looks normal prevent the decision to correctly size
the housing loops.
MTB-BRAKE-LEVER
HOUSING LOOPS
Normal routing
It is normal that the cable from the right lever go to
the rear brake. It may be changed at customer request
but not because the shop decides that the unconventional
routing is better and should be the shop standard. Anyone
that has ever ridden a bike with hand brakes expects the
right lever to operate the rear brake; it would be danger-
ous to surprise someone with a bike that had levers set
up opposite from the norm.
Sizing right-lever housing loop
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire com-
ing out of brake lever. 35.4 Sizing the housing loop from a right-side MTB lever.
There may be a housing stop for the rear-brake cable
at the front end of the top tube, either centered on the Sizing left-lever housing loop
top or offset to the right or left side. If the housing stop The loop of housing from the left lever may go to any
is centered on the top of the tube, then the loop from one of several locations; it may end at a stop on top of the
the right lever may go around either side of the stem. If stem, at a stop on the bottom of the stem, at a stop built
the bars are narrow or the stem is short, it may be pre- into the headset, at a stop built in to a bridge that connects
ferred to go around the left side of the stem to correct the two sides of the fork, or at the brake. In every case, the
the abrupt bend. If the housing stop is on the right side housing-loop length should be set as short as possible,
of the frame, then the housing loop must pass the right without creating an abrupt bend where it enters the stop
side of the stem. If the housing stop is on the left side at either end. The loop should also be routed so that it
of the frame, then the housing loop must pass the left does not have to deflect around anything.
side of the stem. 2
2. [ ] Route housing to housing stop on frame that 1
will be used, making sure that loop does not 3
have to deflect around derailleur cables.
NOTE: See figure 35.4 for illustration of steps 3–5.
side opposite the side of the stem on which
the housing is routed.
4. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past hous-
ing stop that is on frame (without damag-
ing housing), making sure housing remains
inserted in housing stop on brake lever.
5. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with 35.5 When the housing length is correct, it enters the
closed end of housing stop on frame. stop on the top of the stem in a straight line (1). When
6. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut the housing length is too long (2) or too short (3), the
housing enters the stop on top of the stem at an angle.
housing at mark.
35 – 4
2 ous to surprise someone with a bike that had levers set

1 up opposite from the norm.
3
Sizing right-lever housing loop
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing into socket on base of
lever body.
2 [ ] Route housing so that it comes out of base
of lever body and gradually transitions to
underside of handlebar, unless a groove is
35.6 When the housing length is correct, it enters the provided in face of handlebar in which to
stop below the stem in a straight line (1). When the hous- route housing.
ing length is too long (2) or too short (3), the housing 3. [ ] Retain housing to handlebar temporarily with
enters the stop below the stem or at the brake at an angle.
adhesive tape or ties, only to point that han-
If one end of the housing ends at a stop on a caliper dlebar covering will end near stem.
arm, then the motion of the caliper arm should be con- There may be a housing stop for the rear-brake cable
sidered. When sizing the housing, the caliper arm should at the front end of the top tube either centered on the top
be in a position close to its actual working position. or offset to the right side. If the housing stop (or guide)
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing onto inner wire com- is centered on the top of the tube, then the loop from
ing out of brake lever. the right lever may go around either side of the stem;
2. [ ] Find route for housing from lever to other stop usually, it is preferred to go around the left side of the
(at stem, headset, bridge, or caliper) that is stem to reduce the abruptness of the bend. However, if
as direct as possible without any unnecessary
the housing stop is on the right side of the frame, then
deflections or avoidable abrupt bends.
3. [ ] If housing will be routed to stop on a caliper
the housing loop must pass the right side of the stem. If
arm, use brake fourth-hand tool to hold pads the housing stop is on the left side of the frame, then the
to rim to put caliper in its working position. housing loop must pass the left side of the stem.
4. [ ] With housing positioned adjacent to stop 4. [ ] Route housing to housing stop on frame that
that is closer to brake, adjust housing longer will be used.
and shorter until length is found that keeps 5. [ ] Rotate handlebars to limit (90° max.) to side
abrupt bends to a minimum where housing opposite side of stem that housing is routed on.
enters stops. 6. [ ] Pull housing as far as it will go past hous-
5. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with ing stop on frame (without damaging hous-
closed end of housing stop. ing), making sure housing remains inserted
6. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut in housing stop on brake lever and does not
housing at mark. pull out of tape or tie on handlebar.
DROP-BAR/AERO’-BRAKE-LEVER 8. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut
HOUSING LOOPS housing at mark.
Aero’ brake levers are designed to have the brake-

cable housing routed along the handlebar (underneath the
handlebar covering). Non-aero’ levers have free loops of
housing that rise several inches above the brake lever and
handlebar. The housing leaves the aero’ lever at its base
and remains adjacent to the handlebar until it reaches the
end of the handlebar covering, a few inches from the point
the handlebar goes into the stem. 35.7 Cable routing from aero’ brake levers.
Normal routing Sizing left-lever housing loop
It is normal that the cable from the right lever go to
The loop of housing from the left lever may go to any
the rear brake. It may be changed at customer request
number of locations. It may end at a stop on the bottom
but not because the shop decides that the unconventional
of the stem, at a stop built into the headset, at a stop built
routing is better and should be the shop standard. Anyone
in to a bridge that connects the two sides of the fork, or
that has ever ridden a bike with hand brakes expects the
at the brake. In every case, the housing-loop length should
right lever to operate the rear brake; it would be danger-
be set as short as possible without creating an abrupt bend
35 – 5
where it enters the stop or departs from the handlebar. It Even
should also be routed so that it does not have to deflect
around anything. 105–125mm 4–5"
If one end of the housing ends at a stop on a caliper
arm, then the motion of the caliper arm should be con-
sidered. When sizing the housing, the caliper arm should
be in a position close to its actual working position.
1. [ ] Slide piece of housing into socket on base of
lever body.
2 [ ] Route housing so that it comes out of base
of lever body and gradually transitions to
underside of handlebar, unless a groove is
provided in face of handlebar in which to 35.8 Normal cable routing when the housing stop on
route housing. the front brake is on the bike’s left side.
3. [ ] Retain housing temporarily with adhesive
Even
tape or ties to handlebar (only to point han-
dlebar covering will end near stem).
105–125mm 4–5"
4. [ ] Find route for housing from handlebar to
other stop (at stem, headset, bridge, or cal-
iper) that is as direct as possible, without any
unnecessary deflections or abrupt bends.
5. [ ] If housing will be routed to stop on a caliper
arm, use brake fourth-hand tool to hold pads
to rim to put caliper in its working position.
6. [ ] With housing positioned adjacent to stop,
adjust housing longer and shorter until
length is found that keeps abrupt bends to a
minimum (where housing enters stops). 35.9 Normal cable routing when the housing stop on
7. [ ] Mark housing at point that is even with the front brake is on the bike’s right side.
closed end of housing stop.
8. [ ] Remove housing from inner wire and cut Sizing right-lever housing loop
housing at mark. 1. [ ] Insert ferrule into hole in top of lever body.
2. [ ] Insert one end of housing piece into ferrule.
DROP-BAR/NON-AERO’-BRAKE- There may be a housing stop (or housing guide) for
the rear-brake cable at the front end of the top tube, either
LEVER HOUSING LOOPS centered on the top or offset to the right or left side. If
Non-aero’ brake levers are brake levers that are the housing stop (or guide) is centered on the top of the
designed to have the brake-cable housings rise out of the tube, then the loop from the right lever may go around
top of the lever bodies and form free loops that go over either side of the stem. If the front brake has a housing
the top of the handlebar on the way to the brakes. stop on the right side of the bike, it may be preferred to
Normal routing go around the left side of the stem to make the front and
It is normal that the cable from the right lever go to rear loops appear more symmetrical. If the housing stop
the rear brake. It may be changed at customer request is on the right side of the frame, then the housing loop
but not because the shop decides that the unconventional must go by the right side of the stem. If the housing stop
routing is better and should be the shop standard. Anyone is on the left side of the frame, then the housing loop must
that has ever ridden a bike with hand brakes expects the go by the left side of the stem.
right lever to operate the rear brake; it would be danger- Some bikes are set up with the housing loops
ous to surprise someone with a bike that had levers set from the brake levers routed under the handlebar. This
up opposite from the norm. decreases support for the housing, leading to an increase
The housing loops should be of equal height and in housing failure; routing over the top of the handlebar
should peak at a height of 115mm (±10mm) above the is strongly recommended.
handlebar. This is equal to a height of 4.5" (±.5"). 3. [ ] Route housing over handlebar, past correct
side of stem, and to housing-stop/guide on
frame.
35 – 6
4. [ ] Adjust length of loop so that it peaks 6. [ ] Mark housing at point even with closed end
115mm (±10mm) above top of handlebar. of housing stop, then cut housing at mark.
Make loop height equal to left-side loop, if
left-side loop is in acceptable height range.
5. [ ] If housing will stop at fitting on top tube, BMX/FREESTYLE-BRAKE-LEVER
mark housing at point that is even with
closed end of housing stop on frame, then
HOUSING LOOPS
cut housing at mark. Sizing and routing the right-brake-lever
6. [ ] If housing will go through a tunnel guide and
will not stop until it is past the seat tube,
housing loop
use tape to temporarily fix housing to top The housing loop from the right brake lever goes
tube when loop height is correct. Excess to the top tube in most cases but on occasion goes to a
housing length will be removed when sizing device on the stem called a rotor.
loop at rear brake. If the housing loop goes to the top tube, it should
be set just long enough to allow full rotation of the
Sizing left-lever housing loop handlebar or 360° of rotation (whichever comes first).
The loop of housing from the left lever may go to
The housing should go below the handlebar and stay to
a variety of locations. It may end at a stop built into the
the right side of the stem.
headset, at a stop built in to a bridge that connects the
If the housing is routed to a rotor, it should be a
two sides of the fork, or at the brake. The stop at the
gentle curve that is as short as possible without creating
brake may be on the left, the right, or even at the center.
any abrupt bends at either end.
In every case, the housing-loop length should be set at
a length that makes it equal in height to the right-lever Sizing and routing the left-brake-lever
loop (unless the right-lever loop is outside the acceptable housing loop
range). It should also be routed so that it does not have The housing loop from the left brake lever usually
to deflect around anything. goes directly to the brake but is sometimes routed down
If one end of the housing ends at a stop on a caliper through the center of the stem.
arm, then the motion of the caliper arm should be con- If the loop of housing goes directly to the brake, the
sidered. When sizing the housing, the caliper arm should brake pads must be held to the rim while sizing the housing
be in a position close to its actual working position. loop. The loop should be a gentle curve that is as short as
1. [ ] Insert ferrule into hole in top of lever body. possible, without creating any abrupt bends at either end.
2. [ ] Insert one end of housing piece into ferrule. The housing should stay in front of the handlebar.
3. [ ] If housing stop is on brake caliper, use brake
If the housing is routed into the center of the stem, the
fourth-hand tool to hold pads to rim so that
loop should be a gentle curve that is as short as possible
housing stop will be in its working position.
without creating any abrupt bends at either end. The housing
If the housing stop for the front brake is in any of the
should stay in front of the handlebar.
following locations, on the left side of the brake caliper,
on the headset, on the center of a bridge between the
sides of the fork, or on the brake at the center, then the UPRIGHT-BAR BRAKE-LEVER
left-lever housing loop should come down on the left side
of the stem. If the housing stop is on the right side of HOUSING LOOPS
the brake, then the housing loop should come down on The housing loop from the right lever should be set
the right side of the stem. up in the same fashion as on an MTB right lever. The
Some bikes are set up with the housing loops housing loop for the left lever should be set up in the same
from the brake levers routed under the handlebar. This fashion as a BMX/freestyle left lever that has housing
increases housing bends, leading to an increase in hous- routed directly to the brake.
ing failure; routing over the top of the handlebar is
strongly recommended.
4. [ ] Route housing over handlebar, past correct
REAR-HOUSING-STOP LOOPS
The loop can go around either side of the seat post/seat
side of stem, and to housing stop.
tube, except that it should be on the opposite side of any
5. [ ] Adjust length of loop so that it peaks
115mm (±10mm) above top of handlebar. seat post quick-release lever. The length of the loop should
Make loop height equal to right-side loop, if be set to minimize abrupt bends where the housing enters
right-side loop is in acceptable height range. the stops and to minimize double bends. If the housing stop
is a hanger mounted to the seat-post binder, the angle of
35 – 7
the hanger might need to be adjusted. The hanger position operating position. For this reason, the brake pads should
should be set so that the inner wire will come out of the always be held to the rim when sizing a loop of housing
hanger parallel to the line of the hanger or any adjusting that goes to the caliper. The length of the loop should be
barrel on the hanger. set to minimize abrupt bends where the housing enters
the stops and to minimize double bends.
2
1
3 PREPARATION AND
INSTALLATION OF THE
CABLE SYSTEM
35.10 When housing is the correct length, it enters
the stop straight (1). When it is too long (2) or too short
(3), then it bends at the point it enters the stop. HOUSING-END FINISH
After cutting a piece of wound housing to length, the
end must be properly finished to optimize brake perfor-
mance. The fresh-finished surface should cover all 360° of
the end of the housing, and the surface should be perpen-
1 dicular to the axis of the housing. A hand file or grinder can
2 be used to clean up the end of the housing. After the end
has been filed or ground, a taper reamer is used to remove
any internal burr that may have been created during the
35.11 When an adjustable cable hanger is correctly filing or grinding.
aligned, then the inner wire leaves the adjusting barrel 1 2 3
without a bend (1). If the hanger is incorrectly aligned,
the inner wire changes direction as soon as it exits the
adjusting barrel (2).
REAR-CALIPER HOUSING LOOPS

2 4 5 6
35.13 1. Mangled coil: needs to be re-cut. 2. Good

cut: ready for finishing. 3. Incompletely filed or ground
end. 4. Filed end not perpendicular to housing axis. 5.
Completely finished end ready for reaming. 6. Filed and
reamed housing end.
35.12 When the length of the housing loop to a rear
sidepull brake is correct, then it enters the adjusting bar- When using a grinder to finish the end of the housing,
rel in a straight line (1). If the length is too long (2) or a great deal of care must be used to prevent heat from
too short (3), then the housing bends as it enters the building up and melting the outer plastic sheath or inner
adjusting barrel. liner. Press the end of the housing very lightly against
The position of the housing stop on a caliper changes the grinding wheel to reduce heat. A useful technique to
as the caliper opens and closes. The small amount of keep the housing cool is to dip the end into a water bath
motion that occurs under normal operation of the caliper after every 2–3 seconds of grinding. The housing should
is not an issue; however, when the caliper is not hooked up, be supported on the tool rest on the grinder to keep the
the housing stop will move a significant distance from its housing aligned to the wheel surface and to prevent the
35 – 8
end of the housing from being pulled out of line by the
grinding wheel.
A file is slower to use but less likely to create enough
heat to melt the plastic on the housing. Care must be taken
to keep the end of the housing perpendicular to the file
face to prevent the finished face of the housing from
ending up at the wrong angle.
After filing or grinding a piece of housing, the inner
liner may need to be reopened and the burrs left by the
filing or grinding removed. A pushpin or a seal pick are
useful devices for reopening the inner liner. A miniature
taper reamer (of the type used with a rotary/Dremmel
tool) is useful for removing the burr from the inside of
the housing end.
INSTALLING FERRULES
It is important to use ferrules anytime they will fit. Fit a
ferrule onto the housing and check if the ferrule will install
into the housing stop or adjusting barrel. Shimano STI
levers and Campagnolo Ergopower integrated shift/brake
levers do not accept ferrules on the brake housing. If it
fits without jamming, it must be used. Dia-Compe aero’
brake levers use a special ferrule that has a larger O.D.
than common ferrules.
Crimping ferrules onto housing
Ferrules come from the factory crimped onto the
housing so that they won’t get lost in transit. Once a
cable is installed on a bike, there is no advantage to
having the ferrules crimped on. Crimping is a waste
of time and it complicates reusing ferrules. Crimping
ferrules is not recommended.
LUBRICATION
Any housing used for brake systems should be lined
with a plastic sheath. Performance will always be improved
by dripping or spraying oil into the housing before install-
ing the cable system. Grease should not be used because
it can congeal when it gets cold or old, which lowers the
performance of the cable system.
Unlined housing is not recommended, but if used,
the best lubricant is grease, which should be put on
the inner wire.
35 – 9
36 – RIM BRAKES
36 – RIM BRAKES
PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS 36 – 8
SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD ALIGNMENT 36 – 8
THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT 36 – 10
SMOOTH-STUD/CURVED WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT 36 – 11
SMOOTH-STUD/SLOPED WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT 36 – 13
CANTILEVER CALIPERS 36 – 15
CALIPER-ARM INSTALLATION 36 – 15
ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER 36 – 17
PAD-ALIGNMENT PREPARATION 36 – 21
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 36 – 22
PAD CENTERING 36 – 24
FINISHING 36 – 25
SIDEPULL CALIPERS 36 – 25
DOUBLE-NUT-PIVOT SERVICE 36 – 25
SAFETY-PIVOT SERVICE 36 – 27
CALIPER ATTACHMENT AND LUBRICATION 36 – 29
PAD ADJUSTMENTS 36 – 29
CABLE ATTACHMENT AND CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 36 – 30
CENTERING ADJUSTMENT 36 – 30
FINISHING 36 – 31
DUAL-PIVOT CALIPERS 36 – 31
DISASSEMBLING THE CALIPER 36 – 31
ASSEMBLING THE CALIPER 36 – 32
MOUNTING CALIPER TO FRAME 36 – 34
INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING PADS 36 – 35
CABLE ATTACHMENT, CLEARANCE, AND CENTERING ADJUSTMENTS 36 – 36
FINISHING 36 – 36
CENTERPULL CALIPERS 36 – 36
CALIPER MOUNTING 36 – 36
PIVOT ADJUSTMENT 36 – 36
PAD INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENTS 36 – 37
CABLE ATTACHMENT, CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT, AND CENTERING 36 – 37
FINISHING 36 – 38
U-BRAKE CALIPERS 36 – 38
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY 36 – 38
ASSEMBLING CALIPER ARMS 36 – 39
INSTALLATION OF CALIPER ARMS 36 – 39
PAD INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 36 – 40
INSTALLING AND SIZING STRADDLE WIRE 36 – 40
SETTING RETURN-SPRING TENSION: DIA-COMPE AD-990/992 36 – 41
SETTING PAD CLEARANCE 36 – 41
PAD CENTERING 36 – 41
FINISHING 36 – 41
BMX/FREESTYLE CABLE DETANGLERS 36 – 42
GYRO CABLE DETANGLER 36 – 42
FINISHING 36 – 42
RIM-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING 36 – 44
36 – RIM BRAKES
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Brake pad: The rubber piece that rubs against
the rim.
This chapter is about the mechanisms mounted near
Brake shoe: The assembly that holds the rubber piece
the wheel that apply pressure to the rim to control the
that rubs on the rim.
bike’s speed. This chapter does not cover brakes that are
Braking surface: The relatively flat face of the rim
mounted at the hub or brakes that are hydraulically oper-
that the brake pads contact.
ated. The brake calipers in this chapter are operated by a
Cable carrier: Connects the primary brake wire
wire-cable system, which is covered in the earlier chapter,
to the straddle wire. The cable carrier contains a pinch
BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS. When working on the brake cali-
mechanism that secures it to the primary wire.
pers covered in this chapter, it is usually necessary to work
Caliper arm: The lever arm that applies braking force
with the brake levers (covered in the earlier chapter, BRAKE
to one side of the rim. The brake caliper always consists
LEVERS) and the brake-cable system, as well.
of two caliper arms that work in opposition to each other.
After the GENERAL INFORMATION section, this chapter
A caliper arm can also just be called an arm.
has a section about brake-pad-alignment systems and sepa-
Cantilever caliper: A caliper system that has each
rate sections for several different styles of brake calipers.
caliper arm mounted to its own pivot; the pivots are fixed
These sections are: PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS, CANTILE-
to the frame or fork and are mounted below the rim.
VER CALIPERS (includes linear-pull or V-brake calipers),
SIDEPULL CALIPERS, DUAL-PIVOT CALIPERS, CENTERPULL
CALIPERS, and U-BRAKE CALIPERS. There is also a section
called BMX/FREESTYLE BRAKE-CABLE DETANGLERS. After
the sections on specific types of caliper systems, there is a
section called FINISHING that applies to completing brake
work on all types of calipers, and then the chapter ends
with the section RIM-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING.
GENERAL INFORMATION
TERMINOLOGY
Adjusting barrel: A hollow screw that changes the
effective length of the brake inner wire. It is inserted into 36.1a A cantilever brake caliper.
the lever body, a caliper arm, or a hanger or stop on the Centerpull caliper: A caliper system that has two
frame. The brake inner wire goes through the adjusting pivots mounted on an arch; the pivots are above and
barrel. The outer end of the adjusting barrel has a socket outward of the rim (see figure 36.1b, page 36-2). The
into which the cable housing is inserted. centerpull caliper gets its name from the fact that the
Alignment washers: Sloped, concave, or convex cable system goes directly to the center of the caliper. The
washers that permit the brake shoe to be aligned at dif- name is misleading, because U-brakes (and most cantile-
ferent angles for pad toe and vertical-angle adjustment. vers) have this same feature but differ in other ways. It is
Brake caliper: The mechanism that applies braking the number and location of the pivots that are unique to
force to the rim. It consists of caliper arms mounted on centerpull calipers.
pivots. A brake shoe is mounted on one end of the cal- Dual-pivot caliper: A caliper system that has two pivots;
iper arm. The cable system is attached to the other end the pivot for one arm is centered over the top of the rim
of the caliper arm. The brake caliper can also simply be (like a sidepull caliper), and the pivot for the other arm is
called a caliper. above and outward from the rim (like a centerpull caliper).
See figure 36.2 on page 36-2.
36 – 1
36 – RIM BRAKES
Front of brake (or front of caliper): Any reference
Straddle wire to the front of the brake applies to the portion that faces
Mounting bolt out from the frame or fork. This applies to both front
and rear brakes. All references to the rear of the brake
will mean the portion closest to the frame or fork. Again,
this applies to both brakes.
Left pad: Always refers to a brake pad on the left side
Bridge of the bike. Because the right and left sides of the caliper
are not terms based on location on the bike, it is possible
Pivot Pivot to have a left pad on a right caliper arm or vice versa.
Left side of brake (or left side of caliper): This
reference always applies to the left side of the caliper, as
seen when viewing the portion of the caliper that faces
out from the frame or fork. It does not refer to a particular
side of the bike.
Linear-pull caliper: A brake that has two nearly verti-
cal caliper arms to which the cable system is attached at the
top. The arms are installed to brake-pivot studs attached
to the frame or fork. The brake-pivot studs are the same
36.1b A typical centerpull caliper. type and position used for cantilever brakes. Also known
as a V-brake or a transverse-wire brake. Sometimes referred
to as a sidepull brake, which can be very confusing since
this term is also used for a traditional brake used with
Right-arm/sidepull pivot many road bikes and BMX/freestyle brakes.
Left-arm/centerpull pivot Link wire/unit: Used instead of a straddle wire
(hidden) on some cantilever brakes, the link unit connects to one
caliper arm and diverts the primary wire to the other
caliper arm.
Pad centering: The adjustment of the pad clearances
on both sides of the rim to be equal.
Pad clearance: The clearance between the pad face
and the rim.
Pad height: An adjustment of the brake pad that sets
the face of the pad so that it contacts the rim’s braking
surface at the right height.
Pad tangent: An adjustment of the brake pad that
sets whether both ends of the pad are the same height
relative to the rim.
36.2 A dual-pivot caliper.
Pad toe: An adjustment of the brake pad that
Entry-end (of brake pad): The end of the pad that sets whether both ends of a pad reach the rim simul-
a point on the rim reaches first as the rim rotates through taneously or not.
the brake pads. Traditionally, the word back-end would be Pad vertical angle: An adjustment of the pad that
used, but this only makes sense when the brakes are located sets whether the top and bottom edges of the pad face
somewhere near the top of the wheel, which is not always reach the rim’s braking surface simultaneously.
the case on suspension bikes. Pinch mechanism: A bolt and/or nut that secures
Exit-end (of brake pad): The end of the pad that a the inner wire to a caliper arm or a cable carrier.
point on the rim reaches last as the rim rotates through Pivot bolt: A bolt that goes through the pivot hole in a
the brake pads. Traditionally, the word front-end would caliper arm. Most typically, a pivot bolt is found in sidepull
be used, but this only makes sense when the brakes are brakes, where it also serves as a mounting bolt.
located somewhere near the top of the wheel, which is Pivot bushing: The bushing inside the pivot hole
not always the case on suspension bikes. of the caliper arm. Some pivot bushings are fixed to the
caliper arm and rotate with it. Other pivot bushings rotate
36 – 2
36 – RIM BRAKES
independently of the caliper arm and stay fixed to the a linear-pull caliper (which may also be called a V-brake
pivot stud once the caliper arm is mounted. caliper or a transverse-wire caliper.)
Pivot stud: A hollow stud, smooth on the outside and
threaded on the inside, that a cantilever arm or U-brake
arm is mounted on. Some pivot studs are brazed or welded
onto a frame; pivot studs may be threaded into a mount
that is part of the frame or fork.
Quick release: A mechanism that changes the pad
clearance so that the tire will clear the brake pads when
the wheel is removed.
Rear of brake (or rear of caliper): Any reference
to the rear of the brake applies to the portion that faces
toward the frame or fork. This applies to both front and
rear brakes. All references to the front of the brake/caliper
will mean the portion facing away from the frame or fork.
Again, this applies to both brakes.
Right pad: Always refers to a brake pad on the
right side of the bike. Because the right and left sides
of the caliper are not terms based on location on the 36.3 A typical sidepull caliper.
bike, it is possible to have a right pad on a left caliper
arm or vice versa. Smooth-stud brake shoe: A brake shoe that has
Right side of brake (or right side of caliper): This an un-threaded shoe stud. It is retained to the caliper by
reference always applies to the right side of the caliper, as means of an eyebolt called a shoe-anchor bolt.
seen when viewing the portion of the caliper that faces out Spring plate: A surface with one or more holes into
from the frame or fork. It does not refer to a particular which the caliper-arm return spring inserts.
side of the bike. Straddle wire: A cable on a cantilever, centerpull, or
Shoe-anchor bolt: The shoe-anchor bolt is an eye- U-brake that goes from one side of the caliper to the other
bolt that the stud of a smooth-stud brake shoe inserts to connect the caliper arms. By means of a cable carrier,
into in order to mount the brake shoe to the caliper arm. the primary wire pulls up on the straddle wire.
An eyebolt is a bolt with a hole in its head. When the Threaded-stud brake shoe: A brake shoe that has a
shoe-anchor bolt is pulled through the caliper arm, the threaded stud. It is retained to the caliper by a nut threaded
shoe stud is pressed against the face of the caliper arm onto the stud.
and immobilized. Tranverse-wire caliper: The technically correct
Shoe-anchor nut: The nut that threads onto the term for the brake that is often called a V-brake or
shoe-anchor bolt to pull the shoe-anchor bolt through the linear-pull brake.
caliper arm to secure the brake shoe to the caliper arm.
Shoe-fixing nut/bolt: A shoe-fixing bolt is a bolt that
threads directly into a brake shoe to secure it to a caliper arm.
A shoe-fixing nut threads onto the stud of a threaded-stud
brake shoe to secure the shoe to the caliper arm.
Shoe stud: The post that connects the brake shoe to
the caliper arm. It may be threaded or un-threaded.
Sidepull caliper: A caliper that is distinguished by Pivots/
two things: The caliper arms share a common pivot (cen- mounts
tered above the rim) that also serves as the mount for the
caliper, and the cable system attaches to the caliper by
means of the housing stopping at one arm and the inner
wire attaching to the other arm. The sidepull caliper gets
its name from the fact that the common configurations 36.4 A typical U-brake.
of this design rely on a cable system routed to the side of U-brake caliper: A caliper that is a cross between
the caliper. Sidepull caliper is sometimes used to describe centerpull and cantilever calipers. Like a centerpull, the
pivots are located above and outward of the rim. Unlike
36 – 3
36 – RIM BRAKES
the centerpull caliper, the pivots are fixed to the frame or when servicing a caliper. These items are covered in the
fork, rather than to part of an arch integral to the caliper. BRAKE-CABLE SYSTEMS chapter (page 35-1).
Unlike the cantilever caliper, the pivots are above, instead
of below, the rim.
Hub adjustment
If a hub is loose, it will result in lateral motion of
V-brake caliper: Shimano’s name for what is com-
the rim. That affects pad clearance and pad centering.
monly known as a linear-pull caliper. V-brake is often
Hubs should be adjusted to eliminate visible motion of
used to apply to brakes of this type that are not made
the rim. Hub adjustment is covered in chapter 12 (LOOSE-
by Shimano, which should be avoided since the term is a
BALL HUBS) at various locations, due to the variety of
trademark. The V-brake name is often misunderstood to
loose-ball hub designs.
refer to the shape of the brake. When Shimano coined
the term, it referred to the fact that the brake lever that Rim true
is part of the system had variable leverage. See linear- Lateral true of the rim affects pad-clearance and pad-
pull caliper and sidepull caliper for additional terminology centering adjustments. Dish errors affect centering adjust-
regarding this type of brake. ments and pad-height adjustments on brake calipers that
mount on pivot studs, such as cantilevers and U-brakes.
Round errors affect setting pad height; if the rim braking
surfaces have a pronounced slope, round errors create
erratic brake feel. Spoke-tension errors do not affect brakes,
but they lead to unstable true. For truing rims, see WHEEL
TRUING AND REPAIR (starts on page 17-11).
Wheel installation
The wheels must be properly aligned in the bike
before the pads can be adjusted. The vertical position of
the wheel affects pad height. The centering of the wheel
in the frame or fork will affect pad-centering adjustments,
and in many cases the centering of the wheel will affect
pad-height adjustments.
36.5 A typical linear-pull caliper.

INDICATIONS
Maintenance
Brake systems need periodic maintenance because
PREREQUISITES pads wear and cable systems deteriorate. Because of safety
Brake calipers are part of a system. To service the issues, shops should encourage periodic preventive main-
caliper without checking or servicing the other parts of tenance, rather than limiting service to repair of existing
the system could be considered negligent. This omis- problems. It is a reasonable policy to require service of
sion is also just bad service. The system consists of the entire brake system if any work is to be done on the
the brake lever, the cable system, the caliper (including brake system at all.
pads), and the rim. Replacing the wheel or rim
Brake lever When a rim or wheel is replaced with one that is
When servicing brake calipers, the brake should be not identical, changes in the shape of the rim can cause
checked for damage, proper alignment, and security. The problems with the brakes. Changes in rim width affect
inner wire is likely to need attachment to the brake lever. pad clearance, pad height, and pad vertical angle. Changes
All of these items are covered in the BRAKE LEVERS in the angle of the rim’s braking surface affect the pad’s
chapter (page 34-1). vertical angle. Changes in the height of the rim’s braking
surface can affect pad height. When a rim or wheel is
Brake-cable system replaced with one that is not identical, count on doing
Attachment of the cable system to the caliper is cov- extensive brake work.
ered in the procedures in this chapter, but cable-system
replacement, sizing, and lubrication should all be done
36 – 4
36 – RIM BRAKES
Symptoms indicating need for pad poor vertical-angle alignment, pads worn unevenly because
of being positioned too high or low on the rim’s braking
replacement and alignment surface, pad faces contaminated by metal fragments, pads
worn so that grooves or other patterns in the face are gone,
and pads worn 50% or more.
Symptoms indicating need for pivot
adjustment or service
Wear from exess toe
Some calipers have adjustable pivots and others do
Wear from too high or low not. Sidepull and dual-pivot calipers usually have adjust-
able pivots. Loose pivots can cause brakes to squeal and
Wear from poor
vertical angle to feel grabby. Either of these symptoms should lead to
alignment inspection for free play in the pivot adjustment if the
caliper has an adjustable pivot. If the pivot adjustment
36.6 Pad wear that indicates poor pad alignment.
is too tight, the caliper will fail to open fully when the
It would be a good idea to replace brake pads any time brake lever is released. This symptom can be caused by
any type of brake service is being performed. There are, several other factors including excess cable friction, lack
however, some specific conditions that indicate the pads of lubrication on pivot surfaces, damaged pivot studs, and
should be replaced. These include pads worn unevenly weak or damaged return springs.
because of excess toe, pads worn unevenly because of
RIM-BRAKE TOOLS (table 36-1)

THIRD-HAND TOOLS (for holding pads to rim)
Park BT-1 Inexpensive, not universally effective
Park BT-5 Expensive “universal” tool that is not truly universal
United Bicycle Tool WB-BRK A truly universal third-hand tool borrowed from the carpentry trade
(called Quick Grip, also)
Wire-types, various manufacturers Inexpensive consumer tools, not universally effective
FOURTH-HAND TOOLS (for pulling slack from brake inner wire, same tool used for derailleurs)
SIDEPULL-CALIPER TOOLS
Park BT-3 (pair) Used for twisting ends of caliper arms to toe brake pads
Park CBW-6 Set (includes CBW-1 through CBW-5) of thin 8mm, 9mm, 10mm,
and 11mm wrenches for brake-pivot nuts
Park OBW-1 10mm & 13mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot
adjustment
Park OBW-2 11mm & 12mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot
adjustment
Park OBW-3 14mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot adjustment,
with pronged end for muscling caliper springs to adjust centering
United Bicycle Tool SR-AT/TI Very useful for disengaging and engaging caliper springs
CANTILEVER-CALIPER TOOLS
Bicycle Research BM-1 Mill for repairing pivot-stud damage and cleaning paint off pivot
stud
Shimano TL-CB-10 Set of 6 tools for setting up Shimano Pro-Set-type brakes with link
wires
36 – 5
36 – RIM BRAKES
Symptoms indicating need for clearance be a mistake to complete the brake work, then imply to
the customer that everything is acceptable. If the rim has
or centering adjustment a significant flat spot, then pads that are set at the correct
Pad clearance may need adjustment because the pads
height will rub the tire at the flat spot. If the braking sur-
are too far or too close to the rim. When the pads are too
face of the rim is distorted (bulging out or indented), then
far from the rim, the brake lever will come too close to the
the brakes will grab whenever the damaged section moves
handlebar or grip during brake operation, and braking force
through the brake pads. If the rim cannot be brought into
will be limited. When the pads are too close to the rim, three
a condition of true with 1mm or less lateral wobble, then
problems occur: It is difficult to keep the pads from rubbing
brake clearance must be compromised (either by letting
the rim, the rider cannot use the brake levers comfortably, and
brakes rub or leaving them too loose). The importance of
on some brakes it becomes difficult to use the release system
taking a good look at the wheels before selling a customer
to move the pads away from the rim for wheel removal.
brake work cannot be over-emphasized.
On most brake types, the pads need to be centered
to reduce the likelihood of the pads rubbing the rim Wheel-installation problems
when the brakes are not in use. On some caliper designs, It is very important to make sure the wheels are
notably on dual-pivot calipers, when the pads are not correctly installed before starting any brake work. For
properly centered, the brakes tend to push the rim to example, if cantilever pads are adjusted to a rim that is
one side during brake operation. This increases the force 3–4mm off-center in the fork, when the wheel is posi-
needed to apply the brakes. tioned correctly, the pad heights could easily be off enough
to cause a pad to hit the tire or drop below the rim.
TOOL CHOICES Damaged pivot studs
Some brake tools are virtually universal, while others Cantilever pivot studs can be easily damaged in a crash
are specific to certain brands and models of brakes. Table or by over-tightening the caliper-arm mounting bolt. When
36-1 (page 36-5) lists all the tools for the job. The preferred a pivot stud is crash-damaged, there is a chance that it may
choices are in bold. A tool is preferred for a balance among break off during use of the brake. Furthermore, if the
ease of use, quality, versatility, and economy. When more pivot stud is bent, it may be very difficult to correctly align
than one tool for one function is bold, it means that several the pads. When a mounting bolt is tightened too much on
tools are required for different configurations of parts. a caliper arm that has a bushing fixed to it, the pivot stud
takes the load of the mounting bolt. The result can be that
the end of the pivot stud can become mushroomed and
TIME AND DIFFICULTY inhibit the pivoting of the caliper arm. This condition can
Brake service (including caliper, cable system, and be repaired by delicate filing or by patient use of emery
lever) is a 10–25 minute job of moderate difficulty. The cloth to reduce the diameter. The Bicycle Research BM-1
wide range is because of the differences in types of brakes mill makes this repair quickly, precisely, and easily.
and because it would be considered normal to include
some minor lateral rim truing in many cases. This time is Mis-positioned pivot studs
for a single brake, not a pair. Unfortunately, it is not unusual for bikes to be manu-
factured with poorly positioned cantilever pivot studs. If
the pivot studs are not parallel to each other and to the
COMPLICATIONS central plane of the wheel, then it can be difficult to cor-
Rim-true problems rectly adjust pad toe. If the pivot studs are too low or too
It is normal to anticipate having to touch-up the lateral high, then it can be difficult to adjust the vertical angle of
true so that pads do not rub at a reasonable clearance setting. the pads. In both cases, a repair can be made by changing
In many cases, the condition of the rim cannot be made the angle of the pad face with emery cloth. The negative
reasonable with just a touch-up. Ideally, this should be deter- consequence is the reduced pad wear life.
mined at the time the repair is checked into the shop. If it is Mis-positioned spring plates
not caught at this time, the mechanic is faced with choosing The spring plates are usually an integral part of the
between compromising the brake adjustment, giving away pivot stud. If the pivot studs are not rotated equally, then
extensive time for rim work, or putting the job on hold until the spring-hole heights may not be symmetrical, making it
the customer authorizes the necessary rim work. difficult to center a cantilever brake. Holes can be enlarged
Some rim problems cannot be repaired and com- with some difficulty. The only other alternative is to delib-
promise the brake performance to the point that it would erately distort one of the springs in the brake.
36 – 6
36 – RIM BRAKES
Sidepull- and centerpull-brake reach first set up but then become a problem as the brake pads
The reach range of a brake caliper is the range of wear. If necessary, shorten the ideal straddle-wire length
height that the brake pads can be positioned within, or the link-unit length in order to maintain at least 20mm
measured from the center of the caliper-mounting bolt. of exposed wire between the cable-carrier/link-unit head
Sidepull- and centerpull-brake calipers come in different and the housing stop.
reaches. If a caliper with incorrect reach is installed on Loose pivots on cantilevers
the bike, it can be impossible to set the brake-pad height Cantilever brakes usually do not have an adjustment
correctly. Minor improvement can be made by lengthening to reduce play in the pivots, but excess play can cause
the slot into which the shoe stud is inserted. brakes to squeal. If a cantilever arm has a fixed pivot
Poor routing design at the seat cluster bushing, then the manufacturer is relying on the pivot-
On some frames, the rear brake cable is forced to stud manufacturer to provide a stud with the correct
make some awkward changes in direction in a very con- dimension. If the pivot stud is loose in the bushing and
fined area. This can cause several problems. The loop of causing squeal, a shim can be made out of thin steel, such
housing may end up with compound bends that increase as feeler-gauge blades that are less than.2mm thick. When
cable friction. This may cause the brake to feel spongy cantilevers have independent pivot bushings (rotate sepa-
and to fail to fully release. On very small-frame bikes with rately from the caliper arm), then the cantilever manu-
cantilever brakes, this has been such a problem that the facturer is in control of the tolerances on both critical
frame designers have tried to dispense with the piece of parts and sloppy pivots are rarely an issue.
housing in this location. The alternative is some sort of Damaged caliper parts
metal tube that routes the bare wire around the seat tube. Damaged caliper arms and pivot bolts are dangerous.
These tubes also create extra friction and sometimes force Bent parts should not be bent back. If the parts are avail-
the inner wire to approach the caliper at an odd angle. able, then they should be replaced. Most often, it is neces-
That can adversely affect brake centering. sary to replace the whole caliper.
Compatibility of levers and calipers Alignment washers and shoe studs
Not all brake calipers are compatible with all types with memory
of brake levers. If the lever pulls too little cable, then the Alignment washers and smooth shoe studs often
brake pads will need to be set very close, and maximum get imprinted by the surface they press against when the
brake force will still be limited. If the lever pulls too much brake shoe is secured. If the pad was secured when it was
cable, it is less of a problem, but the brake pads would improperly aligned, then it may tend to seek the same
need to have more clearance than normal so that the rider improper position each time the pad is secured. Sometimes
would not have to operate the brake with fingers fully the imprinted surfaces can be cleaned up with a file or
extended. Additional information on lever and caliper emery cloth. Sometimes rotating a washer, or switching it
compatibility can be found on page 34-8. to the opposite side of the caliper, will solve the problem.
Fat tires with narrow rims and Other times it will be necessary to replace the washers or
cantilevers brake shoe to solve the problem.
When fat tires are used with narrow rims, pads on
cantilever brakes may interfere with the tire when the
pad height is correct. There is no good solution that
ABOUT THE REST
does not involve changing equipment; compromising OF THIS CHAPTER
ideal pad height is the only choice except changing the The remaining sections in this chapter are:
tire, rim, or brake caliper (to something other than a PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS
conventional cantilever). CANTILEVER CALIPERS
SIDEPULL CALIPERS
Small frames and cable-carrier clearance DUAL-PIVOT CALIPERS
Small frames with conventional cantilever brakes CENTERPULL CALIPERS
sometimes have a clearance problem between the cable U-BRAKE CALIPERS
carrier (or link-unit head) and the stop for the cable hous- BMX/FREESTYLE BRAKE-CABLE DETANGLERS
ing. If the cable carrier is too close, then it may stop at FINISHING
the housing stop before full braking force is applied to RIM-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING
the rim. It can appear to be acceptable when the brake is
36 – 7
36 – RIM BRAKES
Each caliper section contains sub-sections about pivot
overhaul and adjustment (when appropriate), caliper instal-
SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD
lation, cable attachment, pad alignment, and clearance ALIGNMENT
and centering adjustments. Each of these sections may This type of pad-alignment system is found on dual-
be further subdivided into further sub-sections that cover pivot calipers, sidepull calipers, and centerpull calipers.
specifics for a variety of brakes. This means that to com- A threaded stud on the brake shoe fits in a slot in the
plete a section (on cantilever brakes for example), it will caliper arm. Height and tangent of the pad are fully
be necessary to skip over several sub-sections that apply adjustable, but no adjustments for toe or vertical angle
only to brakes of another type. This is necessary because are built into the system.
of the recent proliferation of brake-caliper designs.
Height adjustment
1. [ ] Loosen mounting nut/bolt.
Good height (sidepull
PAD-ALIGNMENT linear pull, cantilever,

dual-pivot right arm)
Too high
SYSTEMS
There are four systems for aligning brake pads. Many
of these apply to several types of brake calipers. Rather
than repeating the same alignment technique for several
systems, each is described in detail in this section, before
description of the various brake-caliper types. In the
procedure for a specific caliper type, you will be asked to
identify the pad-alignment system. It is assumed that you
will already be familiar with the different systems or that Good height Too low
(centerpull, U-brake,
you will refer back to this section to determine the correct
dual-pivot left arm)
method of pad alignment.
36.7 Proper pad height varies with the type of brake.
The simplest alignment system is a plain threaded-
stud pad in a slot in the caliper arm. With this system, the 2. [ ] Slide shoe stud up/down in slot until desired
stud is always perpendicular to the mounting surface on height setting is achieved.
3. [ ] Gently secure mounting nut/bolt.
the caliper arm. For obvious reasons, this system is called
simple threaded-stud-pad alignment. A variation on Tangent alignment
this system relies on a set of concave and convex washers 4. [ ] View brake pad from side of bike, then move
between the caliper arm and the shoe, and between the viewpoint up or down until top corners of
caliper arm and the mounting nut. These washers permit brake shoe are even with top edge of rim.
the stud to be moved away from a perpendicular position A B
to the mounting face of the caliper arm so that more
alignments can be done. This system is called threaded- Good tangent ft rr
(A=B)
stud/curved-washer pad alignment.
There are two pad-alignment systems in which the
shoe stud is smooth, instead of threaded. One smooth- Poor tangent ft rr
stud system features a curved washer between the shoe
stud and face on the caliper arm. This system is called
smooth-stud/curved-washer pad alignment. The Poor tangent ft rr
other of these systems features a sloped washer between
the shoe stud and the caliper arm face. This system is called
smooth-stud/sloped-washer pad alignment. 36.8 When pad tangent alignment is correct, the upper
front and rear corners of the pad are equidistant from
the top of the rim (A=B).
5. [ ] Twist brake shoe around axis of shoe stud
until front and back corners of pad are
simultaneously even with top edge of rim.
36 – 8
36 – RIM BRAKES
6. [ ] Check that height adjustment is still cor- Because simple threaded-stud shoes have no means
rect, then stabilize shoe with fingers or for adjusting toe, some rather crude means must be used
adjustable wrench while tightening mount- to make this alignment. The most common method is to
ing nut to 50–60in-lbs. twist the caliper arms to align the pads. This method is
Vertical-angle alignment suitable in most cases, but when the calipers are too strong
There is no easy adjustment for vertical-angle align- or too finely finished, the preferred method is to modify
ment. The vertical angles of the faces on different brake the face of the pad by holding it against a spinning grinding
pads vary. One type of pad may match the angle of the wheel. The following procedure covers the arm-twisting
rim’s braking surface closely, while another may not. If method only (see figure 36.12). When twisting arms, it is
possible, change pads to get a closer vertical-angle align- important to not twist the pivot bolt or mounting bolt of
ment between the pad face and rim. The following proce- the caliper. To prevent this, both caliper arms should be
dure should be considered a good option if the vertical- worked with at once. If one needs to be twisted and not
angle alignment is close, but the procedure should not be the other, then support one with the tool while bending
ignored even if there is a big angle difference. When there the other. If both need twisting, twist both at once.
is a big difference in the angles, pad wear will be rapid and Good Too little
the clearance adjustment will be lost quickly. .5–1.5mm <.5mm
Good vertical-angle Poor vertical-angle alignment
alignment
rotation rotation
Too much Reversed

36.9 The vertical angle of the pad face should closely >1.5mm
match the vertical angle of the rim’s braking surface.
7. [ ] Place strip of 80-grit emery cloth between
rim and brake pad (grit toward pad face).
8. [ ] Squeeze pads against rim with third-hand tool. rotation rotation
80-grit emery cloth

36.11 Properly toed pads should clear the rim by
.5–1.5mm at the entry-end of the pad when the exit-end
just touches the rim.
10. [ ] Place Park BT-3 on each caliper arm, above
or below pad (whichever is most convenient).
1–1.5mm 1–1.5mm
Caliper arm Caliper arm

36.10 With the aligned pad pressed against the emery
cloth, move the emery cloth and rim back and forth until
the pad has been sanded to match the rim’s vertical angle.
9. [ ] Rotate wheel and emery cloth back and
forth through brake pads until vertical angle
of pad face matches angle of rim face.
Toe alignment
Park BT-3 Park BT-3
Brake pads need toe to reduce squeal, particularly when
the pads are new. When a pad is properly toed, the exit-end Rim
of the pad should reach the rim before the entry-end of rotation
the pad (see figure 36.11). If both brakes were at the 12:00 36.12 Use Park BT-3 tools to twist the caliper arms to
position on the wheel, toe could be described as having the adjust toe.
front ends of the brake pads reach the rim before the rear 11. [ ] Apply twisting load to arm(s) until desired
ends. If pads have broken in properly to the rim, no toe amount of clearance is achieved at rim
should be needed, unless the pads squeal on a test ride. entry-end of brake pad(s).
36 – 9
36 – RIM BRAKES
THREADED-STUD/CURVED- zip tie (henceforth called toe-tie) in place, toe adjustment

is semi-automatic. Moving the toe-tie closer to the exit-
WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT end of the brake pad increases the amount of toe. Using
This type of pad-alignment system is primarily found different thicknesses of toe-ties is another way to change
on cantilever brakes and U-brakes. It is also found on the amount of toe. Manipulation of the washer may be
upgrade pad sets that can be used with any caliper that necessary to finesse the alignment.
comes with a simple threaded-stud pad-alignment sys-
Toe-tie
tem. A threaded stud on the brake shoe fits in a slot in
the caliper arm. Height and tangent of the pad are fully
adjustable (in the same way as the simple threaded-stud
system), but alignment washers between the shoe and the
caliper arm permit simultaneous alignment of the toe and Rim rotation
vertical angle of the pad face.
Toe alignment
Brake pads need toe to reduce squeal, particularly when
the pads are new. When a pad is properly toed, the exit-end
of the pad should reach the rim before the entry-end of the
pad. If both brakes were at the 12:00 position on the wheel,
toe could be described as having the front ends of the brake Toe-tie moved forward
pads reach the rim before the rear ends reach the rim. If 36.14 Toe-ties can be moved toward the exit-end of
the pad to increase the toe.
pads have broken in properly to the rim, no toe should be
needed, unless the pads squeal on a test ride. 1. [ ] Complete ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER proce-
dure (page 36-17) for the type of cable sys-
tem being used.
2. [ ] Check that toe-tie and exit-end of brake pad
are both contacting rim simultaneously and
manipulate curved washer between arm and
shoe to improve toe as necessary.
Rim rotation
Vertical-angle alignment
Vertical-angle alignment can also be affected by chang-
ing the position of the curved washer against the inside
face of the caliper arm. When this washer is pushed in one
direction, the pad face angles down. When the washer is
pushed in the other direction, the pad face angles up. Some
Convex washer moved to create toe mechanics find it easier to manipulate the washer to align
36.13 When the convex washer is moved forward or the pad. Other mechanics find that the easier approach is to
backward, the end of the pad moves in or out. manipulate the pad to position the washer. The procedure
The curved washer between the inside face of the for setting the toe usually also sets the vertical-angle align-
caliper arm and the brake shoe enables toe adjustment. ment, but it may need additional fine tuning.
When this washer is pushed one way, the forward end of Good vertical-angle Poor vertical-angle alignment
alignment
the pad moves in. When the washer is pushed the other
way, the forward end of the pad moves out. Some mechan-
ics find it easiest to manipulate the washer to align the pad.
For other mechanics, the easiest approach is to manipulate
the pad in order to position the washer. If the mounting
nuts are loose and the cable is adjusted so that the caliper 36.15 The vertical angle of the pad face should closely
arms are pressing the pads against the rim, the pads will
automatically align to have no toe. To adjust pad toe, a When manipulating the washer or pad to improve
spacer can be put between the entry-end of the pad and the vertical angle of the pad face, it is not unusual for
the rim to space it further out. A zip tie wrapped around the height of the pad to end up too high or too low.
the entry-end of the pad makes a good spacer. With this The height is adjusted later, so do not compromise the
36 – 10
36 – RIM BRAKES
vertical-angle alignment at this time in order to maintain 9. [ ] Check that all alignments were maintained
acceptable height. during securing of mounting nut.
3. [ ] Inspect at either end of brake pad to see
if vertical angle of pad face is parallel to
vertical angle of rim face, then manipulate SMOOTH-STUD/CURVED-
washer between caliper arm and shoe up or
down to fine tune alignment.
WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT
This type of alignment system is found on most
Tangent alignment Shimano cantilevers, many other cantilevers, and some
4. [ ] View brake pad from side of bike and move U-brakes. The front of the caliper arm has a curved face
viewpoint up or down, until top corners of against which an oppositely curved washer is nestled. The
brake shoe are even with top edge of rim. shoe stud is inserted through a hole in a shoe-anchor bolt.
5. [ ] Twist brake shoe around axis of shoe stud, The stud of the shoe-anchor bolt is inserted through the
until front and back corners of pad are
curved washer and the slot in the face of the caliper arm.
Like other pad-alignment systems, height is adjusted by
A B
moving the bolt up and down in the slot (see figure 36.18).
Good tangent ft rr Tangent is aligned by rotating the shoe about the axis of
(A=B) its stud. Toe is adjusted by means of moving the curved
washer in the face of the caliper arm (see figure 36.19,
page 36-12), which enables the end of the shoe anchor to
Poor tangent ft rr
twist in or out (relative to the rim). Vertical angle of the
pad is adjusted by rotating the shoe-anchor bolt about its
axis (see figure 36.21, page 36-12).
Poor tangent ft rr
Height
Shoe-anchor bolt
36.16 When pad-tangent alignment is correct, the
upper front and rear corners of the pad are equidistant
from the top of the rim.
Height adjustment Vertical-angle alignment
Good height (sidepull

linear pull, cantilever, Too high
Convex washer
dual-pivot right arm)
Height
36.18 Height is adjusted by moving the shoe-anchor

bolt up or down in the slot. Vertical-angle alignment is
done by rotating the shoe-anchor bolt around its axis.
Toe alignment
Brake pads need toe in order to reduce squeal. This
is particularly true when the pads are new. When a pad is
properly toed, the exit-end of the pad should reach the
Good height Too low rim before the entry-end of the pad. If both brakes were
(centerpull, U-brake,
dual-pivot left arm)
at the 12:00 position on the wheel, toe could be described
as having the front ends of the brake pads reach the rim
36.17 Proper pad height varies with the type of brake. before the rear ends reach the rim. If pads have broken
6. [ ] Slide shoe stud up/down in slot until desired in properly to the rim, no toe should be needed, unless
height setting is achieved. If acceptable height the pads squeal on a test ride.
cannot be achieved, compromise vertical angle The curved washer between the face of the caliper
just enough to enable setting of height.
arm and the shoe-anchor bolt enables toe adjustment, by
7. [ ] Gently secure mounting nut/bolt.
8. [ ] Stabilize shoe with fingers or adjustable
allowing the head of the shoe-anchor bolt to pivot toward
wrench while tightening mounting nut to or away from the rim. When the head of the shoe-anchor
50–60in-lbs. bolt pivot moves out from the rim, the exit-end of the pad
moves in. Conversely, when the head of the shoe anchor
36 – 11
36 – RIM BRAKES
bolt pivot moves in toward the rim, the exit-end of the
pad moves out. Some mechanics find it easier to align the
pad by manipulating the shoe anchor. For other mechanics,
the easier approach is to position the shoe-anchor bolt by
manipulating the pad. If the shoe-anchor nut is loose and
Front brake Plastic housing Rear brake
the shoe stud is pushed to press the pad against the rim,
the pads will automatically align to have no toe. To adjust
pad toe, a spacer can be put between the entry-end of the
pad and the rim to space it further out. A zip tie wrapped
around the entry-end of the pad makes a good spacer. Front of bike
With this zip tie (henceforth called toe-tie) in place, toe 36.20 The plastic housings reverse orientation on
adjustment is semi-automatic. Moving the toe-tie closer front and rear brakes.
to the exit-end of the brake pad increases the amount of 1. [ ] Complete ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER proce-
toe. Using different thicknesses of toe-ties is another way dure (page 36-17) for the type of cable sys-
to change the amount of toe. Manipulation of the washer tem being used.
may be necessary to finesse the alignment. 2. [ ] Push in on shoe stud to press pad against
rim, then check that toe-tie and exit-end of
Cross-section of caliper arm
Toe-tie brake pad are both contacting rim simulta-
neously; manipulate shoe-anchor-bolt head
in or out to improve toe as necessary.
Washer Vertical-angle alignment
moves Vertical-angle adjustment is also enabled by changing
outward
the position of the shoe-anchor bolt, but in this case it
Shoe-anchor Shoe-anchor bolt is done by rotating the shoe-anchor bolt around its axis.
bolt rotates inward When the bolt is rotated in one direction, the pad face
angles down and when it is rotated in the other, the pad
36.19 When a toe-tie is put between the entry-end
of the pad and the rim, it causes the head of the shoe- face angles up. Some mechanics find it easier to align the
anchor bolt to rotate toward the rim and the convex pad by manipulating the bolt. For other mechanics, the
washer to twist and move outward. easiest approach is to manipulate the pad in order to posi-
Some Shimano calipers have an automatic-toeing sys- tion the bolt. If done properly, the procedure for setting
tem called Easy-Set. With the Easy-Set system, there is no the toe usually also sets the vertical-angle alignment. If it
need to use toe-ties or any other system that creates toe does, it may still need fine tuning.
alignment before the shoe-anchor nut is tightened. This
system, instead, relies on a special washer between the shoe Height
stud and the curved washer to automatically create toe.
The washer sits inside a plastic housing that fits flat against
the curved washer. It appears flat but has a distinctly sloped
face that faces out from the brake caliper. The washer is Vertical-angle alignment
designed to collapse on one side, but not on the other. The
side of the washer that collapses is in the lower portion
of the plastic housing. When the low side of the plastic
housing is on the rim-side of the shoe-anchor bolt, the Height
end of the pad that is in front of the face of the caliper
arm moves closer to the rim. When the low side of the 36.21 Rotate the shoe-anchor bolt around its axis to
plastic housing is on the non-rim-side of the shoe-anchor change the vertical-angle alignment.
bolt, the end of the pad that is in back of the face of the When rotating the shoe-anchor bolt to improve
caliper arm moves closer to the rim. Use the figure 36.20 the vertical angle of the pad face, it is not unusual for
as a guide to positioning the plastic housings. the pad to end up too high or too low. The height is
adjusted later, so do not compromise the vertical-angle
alignment at this time.
36 – 12
36 – RIM BRAKES
Good vertical-angle Poor vertical-angle alignment 6. [ ] Slide shoe stud up/down in slot until desired
alignment height setting is achieved. If acceptable
height cannot be achieved, compromise ver-
tical angle just enough to enable setting of
height (see figure 36.24).
7. [ ] Stabilize shoe-anchor bolt with hex key and
tighten shoe-anchor nut to 70–80in-lbs.
36.22 The vertical angle of the pad face should closely 8. [ ] Check that all alignments were maintained
during securing of shoe-anchor nut.
3. [ ] Inspect at both ends of brake pad to see if
vertical angle of pad face is parallel to vertical
angle of rim face, then rotate shoe anchor SMOOTH-STUD/SLOPED-
bolt around its axis to fine tune alignment.
WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT
Tangent alignment This type of alignment system is commonly found
4. [ ] View brake pad from side of bike and move on older Shimano cantilevers and on many aftermarket
viewpoint up or down until top corners of cantilevers. The front of the caliper arm has a flat face.
brake shoe are even with top edge of rim. The shoe stud is inserted through a hole in a shoe-anchor
A B bolt. The stud of the shoe-anchor bolt is inserted through
the sloped washer and through the slot in the face of the
Good tangent ft rr
caliper arm. The sloped washer has a tab at its perimeter.
(A=B)
Like some other pad-alignment systems, height is adjusted
by moving the shoe-anchor bolt up and down in the slot
Poor tangent ft rr and tangent is aligned by rotating the shoe about the axis
of its stud. Toe is adjusted by moving the tab on the sloped
washer between the 10:00 and 2:00 position. That enables
Poor tangent ft rr the end of the shoe anchor to twist in or out (relative to the
rim). Vertical angle of the pad is adjusted by rotating the
shoe-anchor bolt around its axis (see figure 36.25).
36.23 When pad-tangent alignment is correct, the
upper front and rear corners of the pad are equidistant Toe alignment
5. [ ] Twist brake shoe around axis of shoe stud
until front and back corners of pad are Sloped washer
Height adjustment
Good cantilever Too high A B
pad height
B A Shoe-anchor bolt
36.25 When the tab on the sloped washer is rotated

back and forth, the end of the pad moves in or out.
Brake pads need toe in order to reduce squeal. This
Good U-brake
is particularly true when the pads are new. When a pad is
Too low
pad height properly toed, the exit-end of the pad should reach the
36.24 Correct pad height varies depending on the type rim before the entry-end of the pad. If both brakes were
of brake caliper. at the 12:00 position on the wheel, toe could be described
as having the front-ends of the brake pads reach the rim
before the rear-ends reach the rim. If pads have broken
in properly to the rim, no toe should be needed, unless
the pads squeal on a test ride.
36 – 13
36 – RIM BRAKES
The sloped washer between the face of the caliper Good vertical-angle Poor vertical-angle alignment
arm and the shoe-anchor bolt enables toe adjustment by alignment
allowing the head of the shoe-anchor bolt to pivot toward
or away from the rim (see figure 36.25, page 36-13). When
the head of the shoe-anchor bolt pivots out from the rim,
the exit-end of the pad moves in. Conversely, when the
head of the shoe-anchor bolt pivots in toward the rim, 36.27 The vertical angle of the pad face should closely
the exit-end of the pad moves out. The only way to align match the vertical angle of the rim’s braking surface.
the toe is to rotate the sloped washer. 3. [ ] Inspect at either end of brake pad to see if
1. [ ] Complete ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER proce- the vertical angle of the pad face is parallel
dure (page 36-17) for the type of cable sys- to the vertical angle of the rim face, then
tem being used. rotate shoe-anchor bolt around its axis to
2. [ ] Push on end of shoe stud to move pad to fine tune alignment.
rim, then check that toe-tie and exit-end of
brake pad are both contacting rim simulta- Tangent alignment
neously; manipulate sloped-washer tab in or 4. [ ] View brake pad from side of bike and move
out to improve toe as necessary. viewpoint up or down until top corners of
brake shoe are even with top edge of rim.
Vertical-angle alignment 5. [ ] Twist brake shoe around axis of shoe stud
Vertical-angle alignment is also enabled by changing until front and back corners of pad are
the position of the shoe-anchor bolt, but in this case it simultaneously even with top edge of rim.
is done by rotating the shoe-anchor bolt around its axis. A B
When the bolt is rotated in one direction, the pad face
angles down, and when it is rotated in the other, the pad Good tangent ft rr
face angles up. Rotating the shoe-anchor bolt changes the (A=B)
effective position of the sloped washer; it is likely the toe
will need fine tuning if the shoe-anchor bolt needs rota- Poor tangent ft rr
tion to adjust the vertical-angle alignment.
Poor tangent ft rr
Keep fixed 36.28 When pad-tangent alignment is correct, the

upper front and rear corners of the pad are equidistant
Height adjustment
Rotate 6. [ ] Slide shoe stud up/down in slot until desired
height setting is achieved. If acceptable height
cannot be achieved, compromise vertical angle
just enough to enable setting of height.
36.26 The vertical-angle alignment is adjusted by

rotating the shoe-anchor bolt around its axis.
When rotating the shoe-anchor bolt to improve
the vertical angle of the pad face, it is not unusual for
the pad to end up too high or too low. The height is
adjusted later, so do not compromise the vertical-angle
alignment at this time.
36.29 To adjust pad height, move the shoe-anchor

bolt up and down in the slot in the caliper arm.
36 – 14
36 – RIM BRAKES
Good cantilever- Too high back of bike), whether the pad should face in any direc-
pad height tion in regard to the rim’s rotation (exit-end or entry-end),
or whether there are any other indications that a pad is a
left or right pad.
Some pads are specifically designed to work only on
the front or back of the bike. This is often done so that a
longer pad can be used. Longer pads often come with the
stud off-center. The shorter end of the pad always faces
the frame or fork, so that the pad will clear the frame or
work when the brakes are released.
Too low It is not unusual for a pad to be specifically designed
Too low
for its orientation to the rim’s rotation. If the shoe is open
36.30 Correct cantilever brake-pad height. at one end so that the pad rubber can be slid in or out,
7. [ ] Stabilize shoe-anchor bolt with hex key and then the open end must be the entry-end, and the closed
tighten shoe-anchor nut to 70–80in-lbs (23– end would consequently be the exit-end. This orientation
27lbs@3'). prevents the pad from sliding out of the shoe. When a
8. [ ] Check that all alignments were maintained
manufacturer marks a pad with the word forward, the end
during securing of shoe-anchor nut.
that is forward would be the exit-end of the pad.
Some pads are marked for left and right usage. Shimano
has done this for years, putting an L or R directly on the pad.
CANTILEVER CALIPERS Usually, however, it is unlikely that a pad will be marked this
way. A combination of other markings may, in effect, make
This section covers cantilevers equipped with several
a pad a left or right pad. If a pad were marked for the front
different cable systems, including straddle wires, link wires,
of the bike, curved so that it had a specific top side, and
link units, and transverse wires (such as those found on
marked with an arrow or the word forward (for direction of
linear-pull brakes). Several different pad-alignment systems
rim rotation), then it could only go on one side of the front
are found on cantilever brakes; the following procedure
brake to meet all these criteria.
defines the alignment tolerances, but it is expected that 1. [ ] Check for any indications of which side
you will refer back to PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS for the of each brake pad is top side, which end
alignment procedure. of each pad should point to direction rim
rotates, whether pads are specific to front
CALIPER-ARM INSTALLATION or rear of bike, and for any markings that
indicate pads are specific to left or right side
If working on a bike with the caliper arms already of the bike.
installed, it is still a good idea to remove and reinstall them The next step suggests installing toe-ties in the face
using the following procedure. Pivot cleaning, pivot greasing, of the brake shoes. Toe-ties are simply zip ties. Placing
pivot-stud inspection, and spring greasing are very important and toe-ties on the pad is a convenient way to set the toe
should not be taken for granted! adjustment. The amount of toe can be controlled by using
When installing caliper arms, it is a good idea to check toe-ties of different thickness and by how far the toe-tie
the pads for proper orientation. Usually, a left-rear caliper is installed from the entry-end of the brake pad. If the
arm and a right-front caliper arm are interchangeable, brake pads are well broken-in to the rim, the next step
except that the pads might be facing in the wrong direc- should be skipped.
tion were you to switch the arms from one end of the 2. [ ] Install toe-ties to entry-ends of pads.
bike to the other. Before preparing to install the caliper arms on the pivot
Brake pads often have distinctly different top and bot- studs, it is a good idea to test-fit the caliper arms on the
tom sides. If the pad is curved over its length, it should pivot studs. If the fit is difficult, it could be caused by sev-
be clear which side is the top. Obviously, the curve of the eral things. Paint or rust on a pivot stud can make it a tight
pad should match the curve of the rim. Pads that are not fit; these conditions can easily be repaired by using some
curved may, nonetheless, still have distinct top and bot- medium-grit emery cloth on the pivot stud. Pivot studs
tom sides. Usually, if there is a manufacturer’s name on could be mushroomed on the end, if caliper-mounting bolts
only one side of the pad, that would be the top side. If have been over-tightened. This mushrooming damage is
it is not clear which side of the pad should face up, then harder to repair with emery cloth. A Bicycle Research BM-1
determine whether there is a front or back end (front or
36 – 15
36 – RIM BRAKES
is a simple and effective tool that will repair mushrooming, dustcaps were also marked for left and right side of the
as well as remove paint with ease. brake with an L or R. Particularly as the brakes are getting
If the bike is used, it is a good idea to inspect the pivot older, it is a good idea to select the spring hole that sets
studs for bends or cracks at the base. It is not a good idea the brake at the NORMAL setting.
to bend pivot studs back into alignment. Cracked studs
M M
are a safety and liability risk that no one should take. If G G
the pivot stud is not replaceable, it may still be possible to
repair it without brazing. Some types of brazed-on pivot SLR
AL
studs can be repaired with a replacement retained by a bolt
NORM
SL
MAL
R
that attaches to the original pivot-stud base.
OR
R
3. [ ] Grease outside of pivot studs. N R
4. [ ] Grease outside of any bushings to be
installed over pivot studs.
36.31 Shimano SLR and NORMAL spring and dustcap
It is very critical that the caliper arms be well-secured, orientations.
but the design of pivot studs prevents using high torques
7. [ ] Select spring for each side so that spring will
on the mounting bolts (mushrooming of the pivot stud
coil tighter as brake pad moves in toward
may occur). The solution to this is to use Loctite 242 to rim, then install spring in caliper.
retain the mounting bolt securely without relying on high 8. [ ] Put any dustcaps or spring-adjusting nuts
torque. The Loctite should be put inside the pivot stud, not (if any) on back side of caliper and any
on the mounting bolt threads; Loctite on the bolt threads removable bushings (greased) inside of
has a tendency to back out of the pivot-stud hole and get caliper hole.
into the space between the pivot stud and the caliper arm. 9. [ ] Slide caliper assembly onto pivot stud. If
The factory often puts dry Loctite on the mounting bolt there are multiple spring holes in spring-
that is good for several installations. If the bolt can be mounting plate, make sure springs go in
middle holes.
threaded in by hand, then fresh Loctite is needed.
10. [ ] If caliper is Dia-Compe 984 or similar (with
5. [ ] Use Loctite 242 inside pivot-stud threads
spring-tension-adjusting nut on front of cal-
unless mounting bolts have dry factory Loc-
iper), install nut on face of caliper.
tite in good condition on threads.
11. [ ] Install, but do not tighten, mounting bolts.
6. [ ] Grease any coil springs that will be enclosed
inside caliper arms. All caliper arms have a bushing that fits between the
There are springs specific to the left and right caliper pivot stud and the caliper arm to act as a bearing. In some
arms. When a spring is on the correct side, it will always cases, the bushing is a fixed and permanent part of the
coil tighter as the caliper arm moves the pad closer to the caliper arm. In other cases, the bushing is either removable
rim and uncoil as the pad moves away from the rim. Over or can be rotated in the caliper arm. If a caliper arm has
the years, Shimano has remained very consistent and used a fixed bushing, the head of the mounting bolt presses
a silver spring in the right caliper arm and a gold spring against the end of the pivot stud. In these cases, low torque
in the left caliper arm (left and right when facing front of is needed to prevent mushrooming the pivot stud. If the
caliper, not in regard to side of bike). caliper arm has an independent bushing (removable or
Coil springs often have one leg that fits into a hole in free-rotating), then the head of the mounting bolt presses
the spring-mounting plate at the base of the pivot stud and against the bushing. In these cases, the bushing can take
another leg that goes in a hole in the caliper arm. When a higher torque than the pivot stud, and the bushing needs
spring has legs of different lengths, the longer leg almost higher torque to prevent it from turning. Inspect the cali-
always fits into the spring-mounting plate at the base of per arm to determine whether it has a fixed bushing or
the pivot stud. an independent bushing.
Certain vintages of Shimano brakes had multiple holes Some caliper arms have a nut (or plate) that is installed
inside the caliper arm into which the spring leg installs. in front of or behind the caliper arm, to which the spring
This was done to offer the option of setting up the brake is attached. This is seen on some Dia-Compe and SunTour
with a soft (SLR) feel or firmer (NORMAL) feel. After brakes. This feature is usually found on one caliper arm.
putting the spring into one of the holes, a dustcap is placed This spring-tension-adjusting nut (or plate) will stay at the
over the spring. The triangular indicator on the caliper position it is set when the mounting bolt is secured. When
arm points either to the SLR or NORMAL notation on securing the mounting bolt in the next step, position the
the dustcap, depending into which hole in the caliper arm spring tension nut so that the positions of the caliper arms
the spring was installed. These SLR/NORMAL-marked on each side of the wheel are symmetrical.
36 – 16
36 – RIM BRAKES
12. [ ] Fixed-bushing caliper(s): Secure to 25in-lbs.
Independent-bushing caliper(s): Secure to Cable carrier
50–60in-lbs.
If the brake uses a link-wire or link-unit cable- St
ire ra
w dd
attachment system, the brake pads can interfere with l e le
w
getting the cable-attachment system set up properly. For dd Primary wire ire
ra
this reason, if the brake has one of these cable systems, St
the next step requires positioning the pads so that they
will miss the rim when the caliper arms move in. On
the other hand, brakes with straddle wires or transverse
wires require that the pads are in a normal position in
order to attach the cable system to the caliper arms.
The pads should be set up close to their final position,
but precision adjustment is done later.
13. [ ] Link-wire and Link-unit systems: Position
pads so that they will go below rim when 36.33 A cantilever with a straddle wire.
caliper arms move in.
Primary wire
Straddle-wire and linear-pull systems: Posi-
tion pads on caliper to approximately correct
height, tangent, and toe. Leave nuts/bolts
just tight enough to keep shoe in place.
Link-unit head
ATTACHING CABLE TO w
ire Lin
k-
CALIPER -u
ni
t un
it
ho
At this point, determine whether the brake system nk us
Li in
g
uses a straddle wire, a link wire, or a link unit or is a linear- Link unit
pull system. Figures 36.32, 36.33, 36.34, and 36.35 show
examples of each cable system. Once the system is identi-
fied, use the appropriate following section for attaching the Primary
wire
cable system to the calipers.
Primary wire
36.34 A cantilever with a link unit.

Link-wire head
ire Pr
im
w
n k ar
Li y
w
ire
73
A/
36.32 A cantilever with a link wire.
36.35 A linear-pull brake with a transverse wire.
36 – 17
36 – RIM BRAKES
Straddle-wire-system cable attachment 3. [ ] Lubricate threads of pinch mechanism on

cable carrier.
Straddle-wire systems are found on older Shimano
4. [ ] Slide cable carrier over primary wire so that
cantilever brakes and almost all current cantilever brakes nut faces out from frame or fork.
made by companies other than Shimano. Newer Shimano 5. [ ] Position cable carrier on primary wire so bot-
cantilevers use link wires, link units, or transverse wires. tom edge of cable carrier clears tire tread by
It is not unusual to find Shimano cantilevers that were 35–45mm or just clears reflector bracket.
designed with link wires or link units converted to a 6. [ ] Hold cable-carrier bolt with wrench, then
straddle-wire setup. torque nut to 50–70in-lbs.
1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not 7. [ ] Hold pads to rim with third-hand tool.
already installed. 8. [ ] Thread straddle cable through cable carrier
2. [ ] Set cable-system adjusting barrel to 3 full and caliper-arm pinch mechanism, then hook
turns out from fully in position. straddle-wire bead into other caliper arm.
The cable carrier should be installed on the primary 9. [ ] Use fourth-hand tool on end of straddle
wire so that the name and the nut both face out from the wire to pull slack out of straddle wire and
frame or fork, and so that the trough the straddle wire sits inner wire.
10. [ ] Torque caliper-arm pinch to 50–70in-lbs.
in is on the side of the cable carrier that faces the frame
11. [ ] Remove third-hand tool. NOTE: Both brake
or fork. The purpose of this is threefold: It creates access pads should be rubbing the rim at this time!
so that the nut can be tightened with a torque wrench; it
creates clearance so that the cable carrier does not interfere Link-wire-system cable attachment
with the headset cup; and it is aesthetically correct. Link-wire systems are found on a series of Shimano
Traditional cable carriers with a simple pinch mecha- cantilever models that were called Pro-Set cantilevers.
nism are being replaced by carriers made out of extruded The link wire replaces the straddle wire and cable carrier.
aluminum in all types of fanciful shapes. These are most The straddle-wire/cable-carrier system is prone to several
often used to replace link-unit and link-wire systems, problems that Shimano helped to solve with the link-wire
on the premise that the link-unit or link-wire system is system (see figure 36.32, page 36-17).
too troublesome to learn to set up properly. Most of Brake performance is closely tied to the geometry of
these fancier cable carriers attach to the wires by means the cable-attachment system. Since straddle wires have
of set screws, rather than a pinch mechanism. A pinch adjustable length, there is no good way for the manu-
mechanism works by squeezing the wire between two flat facturer to ensure the brake system would be set up with
surfaces; pinch mechanisms flatten and distort the wires optimum performance. The link-wire system solves this
but do not break strands. Set screws work by biting into problem because the link wire has a fixed length.
the wire; they are designed to do this biting on solid metal The fact that cable carriers can float back and forth on
surfaces, not wires. Set screws cause wires to fray; cable carriers the straddle wire creates problems with creating a stable
that use set screws to secure the wire should not be used! pad-centering adjustment. The fixed nature of the link
wire also solves this problem.
Shimano’s original attempts at using a link wire did
not rely on using their Pro-Set tools to set up the link
wire. Mechanics found setup to be very problematic. After
35–45mm a short period, Shimano introduced their Pro-Set tools
for setting up link-wire systems. The Pro-Set tools make
clearance and centering adjustments semi-automatic, if
properly used. If the Pro-Set tools are not used, setting
up a brake with a link wire can be problematic.
Link wires come in a variety of sizes that are marked
with a letter or a letter/number combination. The letters
are A, B, C, D, E, and S. The A and B sizes are most com-
monly seen. When replacing a link wire, try to match the
existing size. If a longer link wire is used, watch out for
the link-wire head getting too close to the housing stop.
36.36 Position the cable carrier on the primary wire so A clearance of 20mm is required between the link-wire
that it clears the tire tread by 35–45mm. head and the housing stop.
36 – 18
36 – RIM BRAKES
1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not 9. [ ] Use fourth-hand tool to pull slack out of pri-
already installed. mary wire until both caliper arms are against
2. [ ] Set cable-system adjusting barrel to 3 full ends of Pro-Set tool; make sure that tool is
turns out from fully in position. properly seated on wires and link-unit head.
There are two ends to the link wire. One end is sim- (Rotate pads down if pads touch rim before
ply a lead cylinder that is called the bead; the other end Pro-Set tool seats against caliper arms.)
has another bead that is trapped between two plates. The 10. [ ] Torque caliper-arm pinch to 50–70in-lbs.
primary wire is routed through these two plates, as well. 11. [ ] Hold head of bolt in link unit with wrench
and torque nut to 35–45in-lbs.
The two plates are called the link-wire head. There is a
12. [ ] Do not remove Pro-Set tool at this time.
pinch bolt and nut through the link-wire head that fixes 13. [ ] Position pad faces against rim and snug
the head to the primary wire. shoe-anchor nuts.
3. [ ] Lubricate threads of pinch mechanism on 14. [ ] Hold shoes to rim with third-hand tool.
link-wire head. 15. [ ] Loosen shoe-anchor nuts.
4. [ ] Slide link-wire head over primary wire so 16. [ ] Move calipers/Pro-Set tool assembly to one
that aluminum side faces out from frame or side or other until equal amounts of shoe stud
fork when bead of link wire points to caliper protrude from each shoe-anchor bolt, then
arm that has socket for link-wire bead. gently secure one shoe-anchor nut. NOTE:
5. [ ] Oil threads of pinch bolt on caliper arm. Side with loose shoe-anchor nut will be first
6. [ ] Thread primary wire under pinch plate on side on which to adjust pad alignment.
caliper arm. 17. [ ] Remove third-hand tool but do not remove
7. [ ] Hook link-wire bead into socket on other cal- Pro-Set tool at this time.
iper arm.
Shimano Pro-Set tools are marked with the same Link-unit-system cable attachment
letter codes as the link wires. There is also a number on Shimano invented the link-unit system to replace the
the tool. The number corresponds to the length of the link-wire system. Link units are used on Shimano brakes
exposed wire in the link wire (from the edge of the bead called M-system brakes. The link unit serves all the pur-
to where the wire enters the head). The number is useful poses and functions of the link-wire system but does not
if the marking cannot be found on the link wire. It is also require the use of Pro-Set tools to set it up. A link unit
useful if the link wire is a non-Shimano imitation (which consists of a link wire, a link-wire head, and a piece of
is likely to be mis-marked). housing attached to the head that goes to the caliper arm
with the pinch mechanism. The piece of housing fixes
the distance of the head from the right caliper arm and
eliminates the need for the Pro-Set tool.
Loose Link-unit head
ire Lin
k-
t w un
uni it
nk- ho
us
Li
73
ProSet tool A in
g
A/
Link unit
Contact
Pull
Pads below rim
36.37 A link-wire setup, with a Pro-Set tool in place. 36.38 A link-unit system.
8. [ ] Select Shimano Pro-Set tool that has match- 1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not
ing letter to letter that appears on link wire; already installed.
install tool so that link-wire head is nestled in 2. [ ] Set cable-system adjusting barrel to 3 full
cradle at center of tool and so that primary turns out from fully in position.
wire and link wire are in slots at ends of tool.
36 – 19
36 – RIM BRAKES
Link units come in a variety of sizes. They may be
marked with letters A, B , C, or D. The A and B sizes are
the most common. When replacing a link unit, try to match
the existing size. If a longer link unit is used, watch out Alignment line
for the link-unit head ending up too close to the housing
stop. A clearance of at least 20mm is required between
the link-unit head and the housing stop. A
3. [ ] Lubricate threads of pinch mechanism on
caliper arm.
2 – Slide wire over ramp
1 – Insert L R
4 – Tighten BACK VIEW
Contact Adjust clockwise to increase R,

counterclockwise to increase L
3 – Pull 36.41 Use adjusting barrel to move link-unit head up
until alignment line points to A.
11. [ ] Use cable adjusting barrel to raise link-
unit head up until alignment line points to
36.39 Installing the primary wire into the link unit.
position A in figure 36.41. (Use straight
4. [ ] Thread primary wire through link-unit head edge to extend alignment line to make align-
and then through link-unit housing. ment easier to sight.)
5. [ ] Move primary wire over ramp and into work- 12. [ ] Use adjusting screw in side of right caliper
ing slot in link-unit head. arm to center arms to rim to <1mm dif-
6. [ ] Hook lead bead on link unit into caliper arm. ference. Measure from each caliper to rim as
7. [ ] Insert primary wire through pinch mech- shown in figure 36.41.
anism on right caliper arm, then tighten
pinch bolt just enough so that cable can still Linear-pull-system cable attachment
slide through pinch mechanism. A linear-pull brake differs in appearance from a
8. [ ] Push on link-unit head until link-unit housing cantilever but acts in essentially the same fashion. It is
stops against caliper arm. simpler to set up than most cantilever brakes because the
primary wire attaches directly to the caliper arms, much
like a sidepull brake.
Alignment line 1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not
already installed.
2. [ ] Set cable-system adjusting barrel to 6 full
turns out from fully in position.
Maintain contact right caliper arm.
4. [ ] Hold pads to rim with third-hand tool.
It is possible to set up a linear-pull brake so that the
ends of the caliper arms actually end up touching under
certain conditions. That, of course, makes the application of
36.40 Use a fourth hand on the primary wire to align additional brake force impossible. To ensure that this does
the alignment line with the link-unit wire. not happen, the manufacturer provides washers that can be
9. [ ] Move primary wire through link-unit housing moved to different locations to compensate for different
with fourth-hand tool to align alignment line in combinations of rim and pivot-stud width. The washers are
link-unit head so that groove is aligned to link- the same concave types used for pad alignments. There is
unit wire. (Use straight edge to extend align- one 6mm-thick concave washer and another that is 3mm
ment line to make alignment easier to see.) thick. They can be switched back and forth between their
10. [ ] Torque caliper-arm pinch to 50–70in-lbs. positions inward and outward of the caliper arm to change
36 – 20
36 – RIM BRAKES
the distance between the ends of the caliper arm when the
pads meet the rim. See figure 36.42 and try switching the
washers if the dimension is less than 39mm.
39mm or more
Convex washer
Concave washer
Contacting
36.44 A threaded-stud/curved-washer pad-alignment
design.
Shoe-anchor nut
36.42 If the dimension shown is less than 39mm,

switch the positions of the 3mm and 6mm concave
washers in the pad-mounting hardware.
5. [ ] Measure from end of bracket that holds
Convex washer Concave washer
cable-guide tube to edge of pinch-bolt head.
6. [ ] If dimension in previous step is <39mm,
reinstall pads with 6mm concave washers Shoe-anchor
between caliper arm and brake shoe, and bolt
3mm concave washers between caliper arm
and mounting nut.
7. [ ] Insert cable-guide tube into bracket in left arm.
8. [ ] Insert inner wire through cable-guide tube Shoe stud
and through pinch mechanism.
9. [ ] Pull slack wire through pinch mechanism
until pads are against rim, then torque pinch
bolt to 50–70in-lbs.
PAD-ALIGNMENT PREPARATION 36.45 A smooth-stud/curved-washer pad-alignment

design.
1. [ ] Loosen shoe-mounting bolts/nuts just enough
so that shoe alignment can be manipulated
with your fingers (except link-wire and link-
Concave/convex
unit brakes; this step is already done).
washers
Determine the type of pad-alignment system used
on the calipers. Use the procedures in the earlier section
for SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD ALIGNMENT (page 36-
8), THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT Sloped washer
(page 36-10), SMOOTH-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD
ALIGNMENT (page 36-11), or SMOOTH-STUD/SLOPED- Shoe-anchor
WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT (page 36-13). Align the pads bolt
to the tolerances described in step 2.
Shoe stud
36.46 A smooth-stud/sloped-washer pad-alignment

design.
36.43 A simple threaded-stud-pad-alignment design.
36 – 21
36 – RIM BRAKES
Proper pad height is a very critical to the correct instal-
lation of cantilever brakes. The nature of a typical canti-
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
1. [ ] Remove Pro-Set tool from link-wire system,
lever arm causes the pads to arc significantly downward if applicable.
as the pads move in toward the rim. The inward motion The brake system is ready to be stressed. To stress the
that results from compression after the pads contact the system, squeeze the lever 10 times, as hard as it would be
rim causes even more downward motion. Over time, pad squeezed in a panic stop. This stressing procedure performs
wear has an even greater effect on the height of the pad several functions: It seats wire beads into their sockets fully;
when it reaches the rim. For these reasons, it is critical it seats housing ends into the stops fully; it double-checks
to set the pads as high on the rim as is safe when setting that pinch mechanisms are adequately secure; it confirms
up cantilever brakes. Normally, this highest setting would that pads are adequately secure; and it tests for defective
place the top edge of the pad even with the top edge of wire beads that could pop off under high load.
the braking surface on the rim. Unfortunately, the brak- 2. [ ] Stress cable system by pulling on lever
ing surface is not always clearly delineated. If the braking equivalent of 10 hard panic stops.
surface gradually transitions to the “top” of the rim, the 3. [ ] Inspect for pads that have lost alignment
correct height is somewhat subjective. Certainly, the top and wires that have slipped through pinch
edge of the pad should not be more than 1mm below mechanisms.
the top edge of the rim. Figure 36.47 shows good canti- Before going to the next step, which leads directly to
lever-pad height on a rim with a clearly delineated braking setting the pad clearance, it is important to understand the
surface and on a rim with a gradual transition from the parameters for pad clearance. There are two parameters:
top of the braking surface to the top of the rim. After When the pads first reach the rim, the lever should have at
setting pad height to the ideal position, it is important to least 25mm of clearance to the grip, and when the pads are
check whether the pads interfere with the tire after the held to the rim by hand, it should be relatively effortless
brakes are released. This cannot be checked until the brake to release the cable system from the caliper.
setup is completed. The 25mm clearance between the lever and the grip
Top of brake Top of brake is the rule that determines that the brakes are safely set
surface is clear surface unclear up. If there is not enough lever travel left after the pads
first reach the rim, then the potential braking force will be
compromised. The 25mm tolerance is adequate for virtu-
ally all brakes, but for some low-performance equipment
you might exercise discretion and set a larger clearance.
Good Good Too low
Second, the cables system should release effortlessly.
36.47 Correct cantilever-pad height. It is common for mechanics to set brake-pad clearance
2. [ ] Determine what pad-alignment system tighter than necessary. There is a belief that it makes
to use by looking at the way shoes are the brakes “feel better” and that it is a hallmark of a
mounted to caliper arm, then use appropriate meticulous mechanic. These misdirected goals should be
pad-alignment-system procedure to achieve avoided. Instead, adhere to this second parameter. The
following tolerances (in order indicated by primary convenience feature that is established by fol-
pad-alignment-system procedure):
lowing this guideline is that it will be easy for the rider to
Pad toe: Entry-end of pad clears rim by
release the brakes when wheel removal is required. The
.5–1.5mm when exit-end touches rim.
Vertical angle: Vertical angle of pad face is common mechanic’s error is to check the cable-system
parallel to vertical angle of rim face. release with the benefit of a mechanic’s strong fingers.
Pad tangent: Top corners of pad are equi- The procedure recommends handicapping yourself by
distant from top edge of rim. using any finger combination not including your thumb, to
Pad height: Top edge of pad face is even simulate a rider with more typical finger strength. Another
with top edge of rim’s braking surface is that the brake lever will travel a reasonable amount
(unless interference with tire occurs when before engaging the pads to the rim. When the lever does
caliper is released). not travel far before pad engagement, riders with short
Smooth-stud engagement: Position shoes so
fingers have to operate the brake levers with fingers that
that both contact rim and amount of shoe
are uncomfortably extended. The additional pad clearance
stud protruding past anchor bolts is equal on
both sides. that is created by this parameter makes it more convenient
for the rider to install the wheel without the rim rubbing
the pads. You (the mechanic) will appreciate the extra pad
36 – 22
36 – RIM BRAKES
clearance established when this rule is followed. Extra pad 2. [ ] If lever clears grip by <25mm in previous
clearance makes the pad-centering adjustment easier. step, turn cable adjusting barrel out (up to 5
4. [ ] Go to step 1 of Straddle-wire-system clearance, full turns out from fully in) to tighten cable,
Link-wire-system clearance, Link-unit-system clear- then check lever clearance again. (If clear-
ance, or Linear-pull-system clearance (page 36-24), ance is still <25mm after turning adjusting
as appropriate. barrel out to 5-turn limit, return to ATTACHING
CABLE TO CALIPER and start over.)
Straddle-wire-system clearance 3. [ ] Hold pads to rim with one hand and pull link-
1. [ ] Pull on brake lever just until pads touch rim wire bead out of socket in caliper arm using
and check if clearance between lever and any combination of fingers not including
grip is <25mm. your thumb.
2. [ ] If lever clears grip by <25mm in previous If, in the next step, the adjusting barrel cannot be
step, turn cable adjusting barrel out (up
turned in far enough to create easy cable-system release,
to 5 full turns out from fully in) to tighten
cable, then check lever clearance again.
several things may have gone wrong in the setup of the
(If clearance is still <25mm after turning brake. It is possible that the adjusting barrel was not out
adjusting barrel out to 5-turn limit, turn three full turns before attaching the cable to the caliper,
adjusting barrel in 2 full turns, then pull the Pro-Set tool was not properly installed, the Pro-Set
approximately 2–3mm of straddle wire tool was removed before the pads were adjusted, or that
through caliper-arm pinch mechanism; too much tension was put on the wire by the fourth-hand
check lever clearance again.) tool. All of these problems are best solved by starting over
3. [ ] Hold pads to rim with one hand and pull again at ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER (page 36-17).
straddle-wire bead out of socket in caliper 4. [ ] If link-wire bead is too difficult to remove,
arm using any combination of fingers not turn adjusting barrel in 1 full turn and check
including your thumb. again. Repeat adjustment if link-wire-bead
4. [ ] If straddle-wire bead is too difficult to removal remains difficult. (If link-wire-
remove, turn adjusting barrel in 1 full turn bead removal is still difficult after turning
and check again. Repeat adjustment if adjusting barrel fully in, return to ATTACHING
straddle-wire removal remains difficult. (If CABLE TO CALIPER and start over.)
straddle-wire removal is still difficult after 5. [ ] Unhook link-wire bead, remove toe-ties, then
adjusting barrel is fully in, release 2–3mm re-hook link-wire bead.
of straddle wire through caliper-arm pinch
mechanism, secure pinch mechanism, then Link-unit-system clearance
check straddle-wire removal again.) There is a line on the face of the link-unit head that
5. [ ] Unhook straddle wire, remove toe-ties, then is supposed to come close to lining up with the link wire
rehook straddle wire. when the brake is all set up. Establishing this alignment
Link-wire-system clearance ensures that the cable geometry will offer maximum
1. [ ] Pull on brake lever just until pads touch rim brake performance.
and check if clearance between lever and 1. [ ] Check if alignment line in link-unit head falls
grip is <25mm. between A and C in figure 36.48.
In the next step, if the adjusting barrel needs to be
turned out more than a total of five full turns to correct the
condition of the lever getting too close to the grip, several
things may have gone wrong in the setup of the brake. It Alignment line
is possible that the primary wire has slipped through the
pinch mechanism, the housing ends were never fully seated
in the stops, or that the pads were not set to contact the A
rim when the pad alignment was done with the Pro-Set
tool in place. All of these problems require that you start
C
over at ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER (page 36-17).
36.48 After stressing the cable system, the align-
ment line in the link-unit head should point between
points A and C.
36 – 23
36 – RIM BRAKES
2. [ ] If alignment line failed to point between
points A and C as in figure 36.48, move
Linear-pull-system clearance
1. [ ] Pull on brake lever just until pads touch rim
inner wire through pinch mechanism on cali- and check if clearance between lever and
per arm to improve alignment. grip is <25mm.
3. [ ] Pull on brake lever just until pads touch rim 2. [ ] If lever clears grip by <25mm in previous
and check if clearance between lever and step, turn cable adjusting barrel out (up to 5
grip is <25mm. full turns out from fully in) to tighten cable,
In the next step, if the adjusting barrel must be turned then check lever clearance again. (If clear-
out more than 5 full turns (or if the alignment line would ance is still <25mm after turning adjusting
end up pointing above point A) to prevent the lever from barrel out to 5-turn limit, turn adjusting bar-
coming closer than 25mm to the grip when the pads con- rel in 2 full turns, then pull approximately
tact the rim, several things may have gone wrong in the 2–3mm of wire through caliper-arm pinch
setup of the brake. It is possible that the primary wire has mechanism; check lever clearance again.)
slipped through the pinch mechanism, the housing ends 3. [ ] Hold pads to rim with one hand and pull cable-
guide tube out of bracket on left caliper arm.
were not fully seated in the stops, or that the pads were set
4. [ ] If cable-guide tube is too difficult to remove,
to contact the rim when the alignment line was pointing turn adjusting barrel in 1 full turn and check
above point A. All of these problems require that you start again. Repeat adjustment if cable-guide-tube
over at ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER (page 36-17). removal remains difficult. (If cable-guide-
4. [ ] If lever clears grip by <25mm in previous tube removal is still difficult after adjust-
step, turn cable adjusting barrel out (up to 5 ing barrel is fully in, release 2–3mm of
full turns out from fully in or until alignment wire through caliper-arm pinch mechanism,
line points no higher than point A) to tighten secure pinch mechanism, then check cable-
cable, then check lever clearance again. guide-tube removal again.)
(If clearance is still <25mm after turning 5. [ ] Remove toe-ties or other toeing devices.
adjusting barrel out to limit, return to ATTACH-
ING CABLE TO CALIPER and start over.)
5. [ ] Hold pads to rim with one hand and pull link- PAD CENTERING
wire bead out of socket in caliper arm using
any combination of fingers not including Caliper with spring-tension-adjusting nut
your thumb. Spring-tension-adjusting nuts are usually found on
If, in the next step, the adjusting barrel cannot be the back side of the left caliper arm but may be found on
turned in far enough (or the alignment line must point the faces of both caliper arms. The caliper-mounting bolt
below point C) to create easy cable-system release, several should be loosened to adjust the spring-tension-adjusting
things may have gone wrong in the setup of the brake. nut(s). A cone wrench works well on spring-tension-
It is possible that the adjusting barrel was not out three adjusting nuts located on the back side of the caliper.
full turns before attaching the cable to the caliper or that 1. [ ] Operate brake several times, then check
the pads were set to contact the rim when the alignment whether pads clear rim equally.
2. [ ] If caliper has a cable-carrier/straddle-wire-
line was pointing below point A. All of these problems are
cable-attachment system, try sliding carrier
best solved by starting over again at ATTACHING CABLE toward side with too much pad clearance;
TO CALIPER (page 36-17). operate brake and see if centering improves
6. [ ] If link-unit wire bead is too difficult to and cable carrier holds its position.
remove, turn adjusting barrel in 1 full turn 3. [ ] Loosen caliper-mounting bolt on caliper arm
and check again. Repeat adjustment if link- that has spring-tension-adjusting nut on
unit wire-bead removal remains difficult, front or back face of caliper arm.
but do not adjust until alignment line points 4. [ ] Rotate spring-tension-adjusting nut either
below point C as in figure 36.48. (If link- way until pad centering is acceptable.
unit wire-bead removal is still difficult after 5. [ ] Holding spring-tension-adjusting nut sta-
turning adjusting barrel in to limit, return to tionary, torque caliper-arm-mounting bolt to
ATTACHING CABLE TO CALIPER and start over.) 50–60in-lbs.
7. [ ] Unhook link-unit wire bead, remove toe-ties,
then re-hook link-unit wire bead.
36 – 24
36 – RIM BRAKES
6. [ ] Operate brake and check whether further
adjustment is needed.
FINISHING
See the section called FINISHING (page 36-42) for cable
Caliper with spring-tension-adjusting finish, rim cleaning, and test-ride procedures.
screw
Spring-tension-adjusting screws adjust the position
of a spring-mounting plate located inside the caliper arm
(where it cannot be seen). The spring-tension-adjusting SIDEPULL CALIPERS
screw might be a recessed hex socket screw or an exposed This section contains the following sub-sections,
Phillips screw. The spring-tension-adjusting screw is usu- which may all be used or can be used in part:
ally located on the right caliper arm on the outside edge DOUBLE-NUT PIVOT SERVICE
above the arm pivot and below the shoe mount. Turning SAFETY-PIVOT SERVICE
the screw into the caliper arm always increases spring CALIPER ATTACHMENT AND LUBRICATION
tension and clearance on the side where the screw is PAD ADJUSTMENT
found. Turning the screw out of the caliper arm always CABLE ATTACHMENT AND CLEARANCE
decreases spring tension and clearance on the side where ADJUSTMENT
the screw is found. CENTERING ADJUSTMENT
1. [ ] Operate brake several times, then check Even if the brake caliper is not being disassembled as
whether pads clear equally. part of the brake service, it is nonetheless a good idea to
2. [ ] If caliper has a cable-carrier/straddle-wire- readjust the pivots. Loose pivots cause brake squeal and
cable-attachment system, try sliding carrier “grabby” feeling brakes. It is important to remember that
toward side with too much pad clearance; loose pivot-adjusting nuts on a double-nut-type pivot can
operate brake and see if centering improves
cause the brake to come apart!
and cable carrier holds its position.
3. [ ] Tighten spring-tension-adjusting screw to The PAD ADJUSTMENT section provides alignment
increase clearance of pad attached to caliper tolerances only. You must refer back to the earlier sec-
arm that has spring-tension-adjusting screw tion, PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS, to use the procedure
or loosen spring-tension-adjusting screw to for aligning the pads. (Page numbers are provided in the
decrease clearance of pad attached to cal- procedure when needed.)
iper arm that has spring-tension-adjusting
screw.
4. [ ] Operate brake and check whether pad clear- DOUBLE-NUT-PIVOT SERVICE
ance is uniform on both sides. If not, repeat The double-nut-pivot type of sidepull caliper is
adjustment of spring-tension-adjusting characterized by two nuts that are locked to each other
screw. on the face of the caliper. These nuts are used to adjust
Changing shoe-stud engagement the pivot. The other common type of pivot design is the
When setting up brakes with smooth-stud brake safety-pivot type, which has a bolt head on the front of
shoes, the objective is to have the same amount of shoe the pivot, instead of the two nuts.
stud protruding out past both anchor bolts. If the cen- Spring-mounting
tering methods described above do not get the pads equally plate
centered, check whether the shoe studs are protruding
evenly. If not, the shoe alignments should be redone. Be Pivot bolt
certain to set the shoe studs equally.
If the shoe-stud engagements are equal, the cable
system is set up properly, and the brakes still cannot be Spring
centered, there are usually other problems with the brakes.
These problems could be sticky caliper-arm pivots, dam-
aged springs, mis-installed springs, or simply that the wheel
is poorly centered between the pivot studs. If any of these
problems are found, they should be addressed. If there is
Double-nuts
still a problem equalizing pad clearance, then shoe-stud
engagement in the shoe anchor bolts can be deliberately
offset to improve pad-clearance symmetry.
36.49 Double-nut-pivot-design sidepull caliper.
36 – 25
36 – RIM BRAKES
Disassembly 12. [ ] Remove brake pads for replacement or

cleaning. Note front and back ends of pads
1. [ ] Grasp back end of pivot/mounting bolt in
soft jaws of bench vise. and mark pads so that they will not be
2. [ ] Disconnect springs from caliper arms by switched between front and back of bike.
popping them out of their mounts with Cleaning and inspection
screwdriver or Langley fifth-hand tool. 13. [ ] Clean all parts in solvent.
3. [ ] Hold inner nut stationary while turning outer 14. [ ] Inspect pivot bolt for bends.
nut counterclockwise, until removed. 15. [ ] Inspect caliper arms for bends.
4. [ ] Remove inner nut. 16. [ ] Inspect pivot bolt and adjusting nuts for
5. [ ] Remove front washer(s) and note damaged threads.
orientation(s). 17. [ ] Inspect adjusting nuts for damaged flats.
6. [ ] Remove front caliper arm and look for wash- 18. [ ] Inspect spring for stiffness (should be too
ers stuck on back side of arm. stiff to remove or install without tools,
7. [ ] Remove any washers between front and except when lever has return spring).
back caliper arms. Shimano Dura-Ace caliper
#BR7400 may have central washer that is Assembly and lubrication
sandwich of a plastic washer (contains 14 19. [ ] Grasp pivot bolt by mounting end in soft
tiny 2mm ball bearings) between two metal jaws of vise.
washers. Be careful when separating wash- 20. [ ] Lubricate pivot and threads in front of
ers so that balls do not drop out. spring-mounting plate only.
8. [ ] Remove back caliper arm and look for In the next step, the spring is put into the spring-
washer stuck on back side of arm. Note ori- mounting plate. Be careful, it is easy to install the spring
entation of washer. incorrectly. The spring should be oriented so that coils
9. [ ] Remove any washer left on pivot bolt and protrude back from mounting point and are beside the
note its orientation.
mounting plate (not above or below). Most calipers are
10. [ ] Note orientation of spring and remove it
designed so that the slot in the spring-mounting plate
from slot in spring-mounting plate.
should be above the pivot bolt. If, however, mounting the
If you are disassembling front and rear calipers at the
spring above the pivot bolt causes the coils to rise above
same time, it is critical that you do not mix up the arms.
the caliper arms, then the slot in the spring-mounting plate
They may be different lengths, or they may have been
belongs below the pivot bolt.
twisted to create the pad-toe adjustment. When caliper
21. [ ] Place spring in spring-mounting plate.
arms have been twisted for toe adjustment, the direction 22. [ ] Place back washer in its correct orientation
of twist on the front is opposite of that used on rear on pivot.
calipers. Use a scribe to mark the back face of each caliper 23. [ ] Oil front and back of rear caliper arm at pivot.
arm. A single scribe mark can be used to indicate a front 24. [ ] Place rear caliper arm on pivot, but do not
caliper arm, and a double scribe mark can indicate a rear engage spring.
caliper arm. 25. [ ] Place middle washer(s) on pivot. (Oil bear-
11. [ ] If disassembling front and rear brakes, mark ings in Shimano Dura-Ace #BR-7400 middle
front and rear arms with different marks. washer.)
Brake pads that have broken in to the rim should 26. [ ] Oil front and back of front caliper arm at pivot.
always be reinstalled at their original locations and orien- 27. [ ] Place front caliper arm on pivot, making sure
tations, even if there were no original orientation guide- that cable-pinch-mechanism end of arm is
below housing stop end of rear caliper arm.
lines on the pads. A convenient way to mark pads is to
Do not engage spring ends at this time.
use the corner edge of a file to put a groove in the back 28. [ ] Place front washer(s) on pivot in correct ori-
and bottom edge of the pad. This location for the groove entation.
is well hidden from view when the pad is on the bike and 29. [ ] Thread on two front nuts.
has no effect on braking quality. By putting the groove 30. [ ] Engage spring ends to posts on back face
on the back and bottom edge, there is no way the pad can of caliper arms and lubricate points at which
be installed incorrectly. See figure 36.52 (page 36-28) for they bear against arms. Additional oil may
clarification as to where the pads should be marked. Once be needed in coils themselves, between coils
again, one mark can be used to signify front brake and and spring-mounting plate, and between
two marks to signify rear brake. spring and rear caliper arm.
31. [ ] If shoes have been removed, oil mounting
threads and mount shoes securely.
36 – 26
36 – RIM BRAKES
32. [ ] Additional oiling should be done on pinch- 39. [ ] Check for knocking again and repeat
mechanism threads, cable-adjusting-barrel adjustment as many times as necessary
threads, and quick-release-mechanism pivots. to eliminate knocking that indicates pivot
adjustment is loose.
Pivot adjustment In the next step, the pivot adjustment is checked for
Adjustment can be accomplished with the brake still
excessive tightness. It can appear that the adjustment is
mounted on the bike, as long as it is secure, The adjust-
too tight because the spring is too soft. The spring should
ment can also be done with the mounting bolt secure in
be stiff enough that it cannot be removed or installed
a vise with soft jaws.
comfortably by hand (unless lever has return spring). Soft
Adjust looser Adjust tighter
springs should be replaced. Soft springs can be stiffened,
if necessary, by bending the ends further away from each
other. Use pliers on each end of spring to spread the
spring ends further apart.
Release 40. [ ] To check for too-tight pivot adjustment,
adjustment squeeze caliper arms together about 1/2",
then release them slowly. If they do not
open all way by themselves, adjustment
may be too tight or spring too soft. Check
Secure spring before loosening adjustment.
adjustment 41. [ ] To loosen adjustment, hold inner nut sta-
tionary while breaking loose outer nut,
then turn inner nut 10° counterclockwise
(about 3/4" at end of 4.5" wrench) and hold
it at this position while re-securing outer
nut. Repeat adjustment until knocking is
detected, then return to last setting.
36.50 Proper setup for adjusting the pivot on a
double-nut-type pivot. The adjustment can be done with
the caliper on the bike or mounted in the vise.
SAFETY-PIVOT SERVICE
33. [ ] If brake was not just oiled, oil front and back Disassembly
of each caliper arm at pivot and at points at The safety-pivot type of sidepull caliper is distinguished
which spring ends bear against caliper arms. by the fact that the pivot bolt has a head on the front of
34. [ ] If brake adjusting nuts are still locked the caliper, unlike the double-nut type, which has two nuts
together, hold inner one stationary and break threaded onto the pivot bolt at the front of the caliper. The
loose outer nut. adjustment nut and locknut are located between the caliper
35. [ ] Turn inner nut clockwise until it bears and the mounting point on the frame or fork. On some
against caliper arms, then turn it counter-
models, there is no adjustment locknut and the adjustment
clockwise 90°.
36. [ ] Holding inner nut stationary, tighten outer
must be done with the caliper mounted on the bike (the
nut to torque of 50–70in-lbs. mounting nut serves as the adjustment locknut).
37. [ ] Grasp bottoms of caliper arms and jerk
them vigorously forward and back to check
for any knocking sensation that indicates Sandwich washer
adjustment is too loose. (occasionally)
For the proper directions to turn the inner nut and
outer nut for adjusting and securing the pivot adjustment,
see figure 36.50. Adjusting nut
38. [ ] To tighten adjustment, hold inner nut sta-
Locknut
tionary while breaking loose outer nut, then
turn inner nut 10° clockwise (about 3/4"
at end of 4.5" wrench) and hold it at this
position while re-securing outer nut.
In the next step, it is important to eliminate all play Pivot bolt
from the pivot adjustment. Loose pivot adjustments cause
grabby brakes and squealing brakes. 36.51 Safety-pivot-design sidepull caliper.
36 – 27
36 – RIM BRAKES
1. [ ] Remove brake from bike.
2. [ ] Disengage spring. With many models, spring Notch
needs to be rotated up for wrench access to
adjusting nut (nut closest to caliper). Back of brake
The adjustment locknut (outer nut) on some models Front of brake
of Shimano brakes is a 12-point nut that is fit only by a
13mm or 14mm box-end wrench. In the next step, the end 36.52 Notch the back, bottom edge of the pad. Use
of the pivot bolt is grasped in the vise; the box-end wrench one notch for front-brake pads or two notches for rear-
needs to be placed over the end of the pivot bolt first. brake pads.
3. [ ] Mount pivot bolt in soft jaws of vise. 8. [ ] Remove brake pads for replacement or
4. [ ] Facing caliper from its back, hold inner nut cleaning. Note front and back ends of pads
stationary with cone wrench, then turn outer and mark pads so that they will not be
nut counterclockwise to break it loose. switched between front and back of bike.
5. [ ] With caliper in hand (not in vise), hold nuts
and arms stationary while turning pivot-bolt Cleaning and inspection
head counterclockwise to unthread it from 9. [ ] Clean all parts in solvent.
nuts. Note order and orientation of each nut 10. [ ] Inspect pivot bolt for bends.
as it comes off. 11. [ ] Inspect caliper arms for bends.
In the next step, a simple washer may be found 12. [ ] Inspect pivot bolt and adjusting nuts for
between the caliper arms. There may also be a more damaged threads.
complex thrust washer with bearings. The thrust washer 13. [ ] Inspect adjusting nuts for damaged flats.
is a sandwich with a plastic retainer containing 14 tiny 14. [ ] Inspect spring for stiffness (should be too
stiff to remove or install without tools
2mm bearings. Because the bearings are easily lost, be
except when lever has return spring).
careful when separating the metal washer from either face
of the plastic retainer. Assembly and lubrication
6. [ ] Remove caliper arms and washers, noting 15. [ ] Oil pivot area of pivot bolt.
order and orientation of each. 16. [ ] Oil threads for adjusting nut(s).
If you are disassembling front and rear calipers at the 17. [ ] Install front washer on pivot.
same time, it is critical that you do not mix up the arms. 18. [ ] Oil front and rear face of front caliper arm at
They may be different lengths or they may have been twisted pivot point.
19. [ ] Install front caliper arm on pivot.
to create the pad-toe adjustment. When caliper arms have
20. [ ] Install middle washer(s) and bushing (if any).
been twisted for toe adjustment, the direction of twist on
Oil bearings in Shimano sandwich washer
the front is opposite of that used on rear calipers. Use a with bearings.
scribe to mark the back face of each caliper arm. A single 21. [ ] Oil front and rear face of rear caliper arm at
scribe mark can be used to indicate a front caliper arm, and pivot point.
a double scribe mark can indicate a rear caliper arm. 22. [ ] Install rear caliper arm on pivot.
7. [ ] If disassembling front and rear brakes, mark 23. [ ] Install rear washer.
front and rear arms with different marks. In the next step, the spring is put into the spring-
Brake pads that have broken in to the rim should mounting plate. Be careful, it is easy to install the spring
always be reinstalled at their original locations and orien- incorrectly. The spring should be oriented so that coils
tations, even if there were no original orientation guide- protrude back from mounting point and are beside the
lines on the pads. A convenient way to mark pads is to mounting plate (not above or below). Most calipers are
use the corner edge of a file to put a groove in the back designed so that the slot in the spring-mounting plate
and bottom edge of the pad. This location for the groove should be above the pivot bolt. If, however, mounting the
is well hidden from view when the pad is on the bike and spring above the pivot bolt causes the coils to rise above
has no effect on braking quality. By putting the groove the caliper arms, then the slot in the spring-mounting plate
on the back and bottom edge, there is no way the pad can belongs below the pivot bolt.
be installed incorrectly. See figure 36.53 for clarification 24. [ ] Thread on spring-mounting plate in correct
as to where the pads should be marked. Once again, one orientation, until it is just close enough to
mark can be used to signify front brake and two marks caliper to allow installation of spring. Then
to signify rear brake. install spring.
25. [ ] Thread pivot bolt rest of way into spring-
mounting plate.
26. [ ] Install outer nut.
36 – 28
36 – RIM BRAKES
Pivot adjustment 37. [ ] To loosen adjustment, hold inner nut sta-

tionary while breaking loose outer nut,
The pivot adjustment on a safety-pivot caliper has to
then turn inner nut 10° counterclockwise
be done with the caliper removed from the bike. (about 3/4" at end of 4.5" wrench) and hold
27. [ ] Mount pivot bolt in soft jaws of vise.
it at this position while re-securing outer
28. [ ] Flip spring up out of way if it prevents
nut. Repeat adjustment until knocking is
access to inner nut with wrench from above.
detected, then return to last setting.
29. [ ] If brake was not just oiled, oil front and back
of each caliper arm and points at which
spring ends bear against caliper arms.
In the next step, make the adjustment while viewing
CALIPER ATTACHMENT AND
the caliper from its back face. LUBRICATION
30. [ ] If brake adjusting nuts are still locked 1. [ ] Make sure radiused washer is between brake
together, hold inner nut (spring-mounting and mounting surface if mounting surface is
plate) stationary while turning outer nut curved.
counterclockwise. 2. [ ] Treat mounting-nut threads with Loctite
31. [ ] Turn inner nut clockwise until it bears 242, unless mounting nut has nylon insert.
against caliper arms. Then turn it counter- 3. [ ] Put caliper-mounting stud in mounting hole
clockwise 90°. and thread nut on end of mounting stud (use
32. [ ] Holding inner nut stationary, tighten outer flat washer under hex nut that seats against
nut to torque of 50–70in-lbs. flat surface; use radiused washer under hex
33. [ ] Grasp bottoms of caliper arms and jerk nut that seats against curved surface).
them vigorously forward and back to check 4. [ ] Holding pads firmly to rim, torque mounting
for any knocking sensation that indicates nut to 70–85in-lbs.
adjustment is too loose. 5. [ ] Oil between pivot-bolt head (or double nuts)
34. [ ] To tighten adjustment, hold inner nut sta- and face of front caliper arm, between
tionary while breaking loose outer nut, then caliper arms at pivot, at back side of back
turn inner nut 10° clockwise (about 3/4" caliper arm at pivot, where springs push
at end of 4.5" wrench) and hold it at this against posts on back side of caliper arms,
position while re-securing outer nut. pinch-mechanism threads, shoe-mounting
In the next step, it is important to eliminate all play threads, and adjusting-barrel threads.
from the pivot adjustment. Loose pivot adjustments cause
grabby brakes and squealing brakes.
35. [ ] Check for knocking again and repeat
PAD ADJUSTMENTS
1. [ ] Check each pad for directional arrows and/or
adjustment as many times as necessary right/left indications; make sure pads will be
to eliminate knocking that indicates pivot installed with arrows pointing in the direction
adjustment is loose. of rim rotation and that any pad marked with
In the next step, the pivot adjustment is checked for “R” is mounted on right side of bike and any
excessive tightness. It can appear that the adjustment is marked with “L” is on left side of bike.
too tight because the spring is too soft. The spring should Determine what type of pad-alignment system is on
be stiff enough so that it cannot be removed or installed the calipers. Use the procedures in the earlier section for
comfortably by hand (unless lever has return spring). Soft SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD ALIGNMENT (page 36-8)
springs should be replaced. Soft springs can be stiffened, or THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT
if necessary, by bending the ends further away from each (page 36-10). Align the pads to the tolerances described
other. Use pliers on each end of spring to spread the in step 2.
spring ends further apart.
36. [ ] To check for too-tight pivot adjustment,
squeeze caliper arms together about 1/2",
then release them slowly. If they do not
open all way by themselves, adjustment
may be too tight or spring too soft. Check
spring before loosening adjustment.
36.53 A simple threaded-stud pad-alignment design.
36 – 29
36 – RIM BRAKES
2. [ ] Lubricate threads of pinch mechanism on cal-
iper arm and threads of cable adjusting barrel
on other caliper arm, if not already done.
Many sidepull calipers come equipped with a quick
Convex washer release (QR) mechanism. This mechanism is usually a lever
that can be flipped up or down to change the pad clearance
Concave washer in order to facilitate wheel removal. The cable-pinch mech-
36.54 A threaded-stud/curved-washer pad-alignment anism is usually attached to the QR mechanism. When
design. the QR mechanism is operated, it should be possible to
see the pinch mechanism moving closer to and further
Sidepull-caliper pads move down as they move in. So
from the cable-housing stop. When the two are closer
that the pads do not end up too low, they should be set so
together, the QR mechanism is in the released position,
that the top edge of the pad is even with the top edge of
and when the two are farther apart, the QR mechanism
the rim’s braking surface. Complicating pad-height setting
is in the non-released (brake operational) position. The
is the fact that the top edge of the braking surface is not
brake should be set up with the QR mechanism in the
always distinct. Sometimes the rim begins to curve inward
non-released position.
gradually and the braking surface just “fades” away. In this 5. [ ] Make sure QR mechanism lever is in non-
case, consider the edge of the braking surface to be the released position.
point of transition at which the surface of the rim changes 6. [ ] Thread inner wire through cable adjusting
from facing toward the pad to facing more up. In no case barrel and cable-pinch mechanism.
should the top edge of the left pad be more than 1mm 7. [ ] Draw slack out of cable with fourth-hand tool.
below the absolute top of the rim. 8. [ ] Secure pinch bolt to torque of 50–70in-lbs.
Top of brake Top of brake
9. [ ] Stress cable system by pulling against lever
surface is clear surface unclear 10 times with maximum force that would be
used during a panic stop.
10. [ ] Set up stack of feeler gauges to equal 3mm
(or use 3mm hex key) to check clearance at
exit-end of one brake pad when other pad is
Good Good Too low held to rim.
11. [ ] If clearance is >3mm, draw more wire
36.55 Correct sidepull caliper-pad height. through pinch mechanism.
2. [ ] Determine which pad-alignment system to 12. [ ] When clearance is <3mm, turn down cable
use by looking at the way the shoes are adjusting barrel(s) until clearance is 3mm.
mounted to caliper arm, then use appropriate 13. [ ] If clearance is still <3mm when adjusting
pad-alignment-system procedure to achieve barrel is fully down, let 2–3mm more cable
following tolerances (in order indicated by through pinch mechanism and check clear-
pad-alignment-system procedure): ance again.
Vertical angle: Vertical angle of pad face is CENTERING ADJUSTMENT
parallel to vertical angle of rim face.
Pad tangent: Top corners of pad are equi-
Double-nut-caliper pad centering
NOTE: In steps 1 and 2, references to clockwise
distant from top edge of rim. and counterclockwise are as seen when view-
Pad height: Top edge of pad face is even ing the brake from its front.
with top edge of rim’s braking surface. 1. [ ] If right pad is closer to rim, rotate inner
nut (on front of brake) and mounting nut
CABLE ATTACHMENT AND simultaneously counterclockwise the same
amount to rotate pivot assembly.
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 2. [ ] If left pad is closer to rim, rotate outer nut
1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not (on front of brake) and mounting nut simul-
already installed. taneously clockwise the same amount to
rotate pivot assembly.
36 – 30
36 – RIM BRAKES
3. [ ] Operate brake with lever to check result of The left caliper arm is the middle piece of the
adjustment. brake. It is the one that operates like a sidepull-
4. [ ] Repeat adjustment in either direction as nec- caliper arm, arcing on a pivot that is centered
essary. over the rim.
Safety-pivot-caliper pad centering The remaining piece, closest to the frame or fork, is
1. [ ] With one wrench on pivot-bolt head and similar to the bridge of a centerpull caliper. Due
another wrench on mounting nut, rotate to this similarity, it is called the half-bridge.
both wrenches simultaneously clockwise to At the center of the brake, there is a bolt that
move left pad away from rim, or simultane- also serves to mount the brake to the bicycle
ously counterclockwise to move right pad and also as a pivot bolt for the left arm. It will
away from rim (viewed from front of brake). be called the center pivot. With the other parts
2. [ ] Operate brake with lever to check result of
that make up the pivot assembly, it is called the
adjustment.
3. [ ] Repeat adjustment in either direction as nec- center-pivot assembly.
essary. The right caliper arm is mounted to the half-bridge.
The bolt that holds these together is referred to
as the right-pivot bolt. With the accompanying
FINISHING parts, it is called the right-pivot assembly.
See the section called FINISHING (page 36-42) for cable One more unique part is found on top of the
finish, rim cleaning, and test-ride procedures. extreme right end of the left caliper arm. It is a
screw that can fit a Phillips or standard screw-
driver. It is used to center the caliper arms and
DUAL-PIVOT CALIPERS is called the centering screw.

NOTE: If adjusting brakes only and no pivot
The dual-pivot brake is unique, with one caliper arm adjustment is necessary, go to MOUNTING CALI-
operating like a sidepull-caliper arm and the other operat- PER TO FRAME (page 36-34).
ing like a centerpull-caliper arm. This section contains the following sub-sections,
All references to the brake in this section will be the which may all be used or can be used in part:
same, regardless of the brake’s position on the bike. Sim- DISASSEMBLING THE CALIPER
ply put, the right arm is on the right as viewed from the ASSEMBLING THE CALIPER
face of the brake. “Front” is the face of the brake and MOUNTING CALIPER TO FRAME
“rear” is the back side of the brake (the part that faces INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING PADS
the frame or fork). CABLE ATTACHMENT, CLEARANCE, AND CEN-
TERING ADJUSTMENTS
If the brake caliper is not being disassembled as part
of the brake service, it is still a good idea to use the part
of the ASSEMBLING THE CALIPER section on pivot adjust-
ment (page 36-33). Loose pivots can cause the brakes to
Half-bridge
squeal and feel grabby.
Center pivot The PAD ADJUSTMENT section provides alignment
Set screw
tolerances only. You will need to refer back to the earlier
Centering screw
section, PAD-ALIGNMENT SYSTEMS, to use the procedure
for aligning the pads (page number provided in the pro-
Right cedure when needed).
pivot
DISASSEMBLING THE CALIPER

1. [ ] Remove caliper assembly from bike.
36.56 Shimano dual-pivot caliper. 2. [ ] Use pliers to disengage spring, then remove
The caliper consists of three main pieces and two rectangular sleeve on the springs (Shimano
pivots. Refer to figure 36.56. non-Dura-Ace only).
The right caliper arm is the most-forward piece. 3. [ ] Remove brake shoes and note and mark
right/left and front/back orientations as
It is the one that operates like a centerpull arm,
necessary.
arcing on a pivot that is outward of the rim.
36 – 31
36 – RIM BRAKES
4. [ ] If intending to disassemble or adjust center 15. [ ] Remove spring from groove in back face
pivot only, face brake and push down and of half-bridge, being sure to observe how
in on right arm to expose center pivot-bolt unique end of spring fits in groove so that
head (Shimano only). spring cannot pull straight out.
16. [ ] Thread center-pivot bolt counterclockwise
Disassembling right pivot out front of assembly, being careful to not
NOTE: Shimano and Campagnolo dual-pivot cal- let assembly fall apart.
ipers differ primarily in regard to the design of 17. [ ] With bolt out, disassemble center-pivot
the right pivot. In steps 5–7, use procedure assembly and observe sequence of parts.
variation specific to each brand. 18. [ ] From face of left caliper arm, remove small
NOTE: Campagnolo brake has a set screw in washer.
one of the faces of the hex nut on the back 19. [ ] From inside hole in left caliper arm, remove
of the right-pivot assembly that will destroy plastic bushing (except Campagnolo).
the threads on the pivot stud if not loosened
Depending on the model, there may be a simple
before turning the hex nut!
5. [ ] Shimano: Hold pivot bolt stationary with
washer or a sandwich-washer between the left caliper
4mm hex key. arm and the half-bridge. Be careful when separating the
Campagnolo: Loosen set screw in wrench caliper arm and half-bridge because the sandwich washer
flat of rearmost nut on right-pivot assembly. has 12 tiny 2mm bearings trapped in holes in the plastic
6. [ ] Shimano: Turn 10mm nut on back side of washer, which are easily lost.
half-bridge counterclockwise (facing back) to 20. [ ] From between left caliper arm and half-
break nut loose and remove nut. bridge, remove washer or sandwich-washer
Campagnolo: Hold square nut stationary and assembly.
unthread hex nut on back side of right-pivot
assembly.
7. [ ] Shimano: Turn pivot bolt counterclockwise ASSEMBLING THE CALIPER
(facing front) to remove bolt. 21. [ ] Lubricate washer or sandwich washer that
Campagnolo: Unthread square nut from back goes between left arm and half-bridge and
side of right-pivot assembly. place it between these two pieces.
8. [ ] Disassemble pivot assembly and observe 22. [ ] Lubricate small washer that goes on face of
sequence of parts. left arm and place it on face of left arm.
23. [ ] Lubricate larger-diameter threads of center-
Disassembling center-pivot assembly pivot bolt. Slip bolt into face of left caliper
NOTE: There is a set screw in the half-bridge arm and thread it fully into half-bridge.
(or the nut on the back of the center-pivot 24. [ ] Place spring and large washer onto back of
assembly) that will destroy the threads on the center-pivot assembly.
pivot stud if not loosened before turning the 25. [ ] Thread nut onto center-pivot bolt (Shimano:
center pivot. make sure subtly concave face is against
9. [ ] Loosen set screw on bottom of half-bridge large washer).
immediately below center-pivot bolt with
2mm hex wrench (set screw is on rearmost Adjusting center-pivot assembly
nut of center-pivot assembly on Dura-Ace Even if the caliper has not been disassembled, it is a
and Campagnolo models). good idea to adjust the pivots to eliminate any free play.
10. [ ] Place wrench on nut on back side of half- Such play can cause brakes to squeal and feel grabby. The
bridge (12-point nuts require box-end Shimano center-pivot assembly can be adjusted without
wrench) and then secure threaded end of disassembling the right-pivot assembly. With the mount-
the center-pivot bolt in soft jaws in vise.
ing bolt held in soft jaws of a vise, by pushing down and
(Place assembly in vise so that you can eas-
in on the right-pivot assembly, the head of the center-
ily face back side of assembly.)
11. [ ] Holding half-bridge stationary, turn nut coun- pivot bolt becomes exposed. The Campagnolo center-
terclockwise to break it loose. pivot assembly is only accessible after disassembling the
12. [ ] Remove assembly from vise. right-pivot assembly.
13. [ ] Thread off nut.
14. [ ] Slip off large, thin washer.
36 – 32
36 – RIM BRAKES
tension. On Shimano Dura-Ace and Campagnolo models,
Secure there is a threaded adjustment for changing spring tension.
The tighter setting is for excess cable friction that results
from long or unusual routings.
Tighten Release 35. [ ] Secure set screw in half-bridge (or locknut on
Hold back side of half-bridge) with 2mm hex key.
(in vise) NOTE: If brake being serviced is a Campagnolo
model, go to MOUNTING CALIPER TO FRAME(page
36-34).
Tighten
Assembling Shimano right pivot
Even if the caliper has not been disassembled, it is a
good idea to adjust the pivots to eliminate any free play.
Such play can cause brakes to squeal or feel grabby. The
Shimano right-pivot assembly can be adjusted without
Loosen
removing the caliper from the bike.
Insert and secure

(after adjustment)
Secure in vise
36.57 Adjusting the center-pivot assembly. or bike
26. [ ] Place wrench on nut.
27. [ ] Grasp threaded-end of center pivot firmly in
soft jaws of vise with assembly positioned
so that you are facing its back side.
28. [ ] Turn half-bridge clockwise until it bottoms
out, then counterclockwise about 60°.
29. [ ] Holding half-bridge stationary with your fin-
gers, turn nut clockwise to tighten it against
half-bridge to a torque of 60–70in-lbs.
30. [ ] Jerk in and out on end of left caliper arm to
check for free play or knock.
31. If knock is felt:
[ ] Hold half-bridge stationary. Release
[ ] Break nut loose (counterclockwise).
Tighten Secure
[ ] Turn half-bridge clockwise so that its end Loosen
moves 5–10mm.
[ ] Hold half-bridge stationary and secure nut. 36.58 Adjusting a Shimano right-pivot assembly.
[ ] Check for knock again. Repeat step 31 as
36. [ ] Lubricate both sides of both washers, inside
many times as necessary until no knock is felt.
and outside of bushing, and threads of right-
32. If no knock is felt, check that left caliper arm
pivot bolt.
is pivoting freely without excessive drag. If
37. [ ] Sandwich large washer between back of
excessive drag is felt:
right caliper arm and front of right end of
[ ] Hold half-bridge stationary.
half-bridge.
[ ] Break nut loose (counterclockwise).
38. [ ] Put small washer on face of right caliper arm.
[ ] Turn half-bridge counterclockwise so that
39. [ ] Put right-pivot bolt through right caliper arm
its end moves 5–10mm.
and thread it fully into half-bridge.
[ ] Hold half-bridge stationary and secure nut.
40. [ ] Thread on, but do not secure, 10mm nut on
[ ] Check for excessive drag again. Repeat
back side of half-bridge.
step 32 as many times as necessary until
41. [ ] Mount brake securely to frame or fork.
knock is felt, then return to last setting.
42. [ ] Turn right-pivot bolt clockwise (facing brake)
33. [ ] Shimano non-Dura-Ace only: Slip spring
until it bottoms out, then back it off 90°.
sleeve onto spring.
43. [ ] Hold right-pivot bolt stationary while securing
34. [ ] Engage spring in its notch on back side of
10mm nut to torque of 50–70in-lbs.
left caliper arm.
44. [ ] Jerk in and out on end of right caliper arm
On Shimano non-Dura-Ace calipers, the sleeve on
and check for free play or knock.
the spring can be flip-flopped two ways to adjust spring
36 – 33
36 – RIM BRAKES
[ ] Hold bolt stationary. Turn clockwise to
tighten adjustment
[ ] Break loose 10mm nut.
[ ] Turn bolt clockwise (1/2" at end of 3" Turn clockwise to
hex key secure adjustment
[ ] Hold bolt stationary and secure 10mm nut.
[ ] Check for knock again. Repeat step 45 as
many times as necessary until no knock is felt.
46. If no knock is felt, check that right caliper arm
is pivoting freely without excessive drag. If
[ ] Hold bolt stationary.
[ ] Break loose 10mm nut.
[ ] Turn bolt counterclockwise (1/2" at end
of 3" hex key).
[ ] Hold bolt stationary and secure 10mm Secure in vise
nut again.
[ ] Check for excessive drag again. Repeat 36.60 Adjusting a Campagnolo right-pivot assembly.
step 46 as many times as necessary until
52. [ ] Grasp bottom end of right caliper arm in soft
knock is felt, then return to last setting.
jaws in vise, with back face of brake up.
NOTE: Go to MOUNTING CALIPER TO FRAME.
53. [ ] Turn square nut clockwise until bottomed,
Assembling Campagnolo right pivot then back of approximately 90°.
Even if the caliper has not been disassembled, it is a 54. [ ] Hold square nut stationary and secure hex
good idea to adjust the pivots to eliminate any free play. nut to torque of 50–70in-lbs.
55. [ ] Jerk in and out on end of right caliper arm
Such play can cause brakes to squeal or feel grabby. The
and check for free play or knock.
Campagnolo right-pivot assembly can be adjusted without
removing the caliper from the bike. [ ] Hold square nut stationary.
Set screws [ ] Break loose hex nut.
[ ] Turn square nut clockwise (1/2" at end of
3" wrench).
[ ] Hold square nut stationary and secure
hex nut again.
Square nut [ ] Check for knock again. Repeat step 56 as
many times as necessary until no knock is
Center pivot Half-bridge felt, then secure 2mm set screw in wrench
flat on hex nut.
Right pivot 57. If no knock is felt, check that right caliper arm
is pivoting freely, without excessive drag. If
Centering screw
[ ] Hold square nut stationary.
[ ] Break loose hex nut.
[ ] Turn square nut counterclockwise (1/2"
36.59 Campagnolo dual-pivot assembly. at end of 3" wrench).
[ ] Hold square nut stationary and secure
47. [ ] Lubricate sandwich washer, then assemble
hex nut again.
centering cam and washer onto pivot stud in
[ ] Check for excess play again. Repeat step
back face of right arm.
57 as many times as necessary until knock
48. [ ] Place half-bridge over right-arm pivot stud.
is felt, then return to last setting and secure
49. [ ] Put small washer on back face of half-bridge.
2mm set screw in wrench flat on hex nut.
50. [ ] Grease square-head sleeve nut, then thread
onto pivot stud so that sleeve goes inside
hole in half-bridge.
51. [ ] Thread nut onto right-arm pivot stud, but do
MOUNTING CALIPER TO FRAME
1. [ ] Treat mounting-nut threads with Loctite
not secure.
242, unless mounting nut is hex-nut vari-
ety with nylon insert for thread locking
(leave untreated).
36 – 34
36 – RIM BRAKES
2. [ ] Install mounting stud on back of caliper into
hole in frame or fork, then thread mounting
nut onto mounting stud.
3. [ ] Install brake pads so that they will strike
rim at normal position. This is not final pad
adjustment.
Shimano and Campagnolo dual-pivot brakes have cen-
tering screws that must be used to make an adjustment in Convex washer
either direction. The screws are located in different places.
For Shimano, look for a Phillips screw on top of the left Concave washer
caliper arm at its rightmost end. For Campagnolo, look 36.62 A threaded-stud/curved-washer design.
for a recessed set screw in the outward face of the right
Pad height is a very different with dual-pivot brakes. The
caliper arm, just below the right pivot.
4. [ ] Shimano: Adjust centering screw so bottom right pad swings up as it moves in, and the left pad swings
edge of its head is even with top of hole into down as it moves in. Consequently, the right-pad height needs
which screw is installed. to be set so that its bottom edge is even with the bottom edge
Campagnolo: Adjust centering screw so that of the rim’s braking surface, and the left-pad height needs to
it is in one full turn out from flush with face be set so that its top edge is even with the top edge of the
of right caliper arm. rim’s braking surface. Although it looks unusual, dual-pivot
5. [ ] Hold caliper so that pads are equidistant pad heights are correct when the heights are not even. Com-
from rim, then secure mounting nut to plicating pad-height setting further is the fact that the bottom
torque of 70–85in-lbs. and top edges of the braking surface are not always distinct;
sometimes the rim begins to curve inward gradually and the
INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING braking surface just “fades” away. In this case, consider the
edge of the braking surface to be the point of transition at
PADS which the surface of the rim changes from facing toward the
1. [ ] Check each pad for directional arrows and/or pad to facing more up or down. In no case should the top
right/left indications; make sure pads will be
edge of the left pad be more than 1mm below the absolute
installed with arrows pointing in the direction
of rim rotation and that any pad marked with
top of the rim and in no case should the bottom edge of the
“R” is mounted on right side of bike and any right pad extend below the rim.
marked with “L” is on left side of bike. Good left-pad
Determine what sort of pad-alignment system is on height Good right-pad
height
the calipers. Use the procedures in the earlier section for
SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD ALIGNMENT (page 36-8)
or THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD ALIGNMENT
(page 36-10). Align the pads to the tolerances described
in the next step. 36.63 Correct dual-pivot pad height.
2. [ ] Determine which pad-alignment system to
use by looking at the way the shoes are
mounted to caliper arm, then use appro-
priate pad-alignment-system procedure to
achieve following tolerances (in order indi-
cated by pad-alignment-system procedure):
36.61 A simple threaded-stud pad-alignment design. Vertical angle: Vertical angle of pad face is
distant from top edge of rim.
Right-pad height: Bottom edge of pad face
is even with bottom edge of rim’s braking
surface.
Left-pad height: Top edge of pad face is
even with top edge of rim’s braking surface.
36 – 35
36 – RIM BRAKES
CABLE ATTACHMENT, 14. [ ] Move inner wire through pinch mechanism

to change clearance if adjusting barrel can-
CLEARANCE, AND CENTERING not move down far enough or if adjusting
barrel must be moved up >4mm from bot-
ADJUSTMENTS tomed to make clearance tight enough.
Cable attachment
1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not
already installed.
FINISHING
finish, rim cleaning, and test-ride procedures.
right caliper arm and threads of cable adjust-
ing barrel on left caliper arm.
4. [ ] Hold pads to rim with third-hand tool. CENTERPULL CALIPERS
5. [ ] Make sure QR mechanism lever is fully
down.
6. [ ] Thread inner wire through cable adjusting CALIPER MOUNTING
barrel and cable-pinch mechanism. 1. [ ] Install radius washer between caliper and
7. [ ] Draw slack out of cable with fourth-hand tool. frame, wherever frame/fork mounting sur-
8. [ ] Secure pinch bolt to torque of 50–70in-lbs. face is not flat. Reflector bracket may serve
9. [ ] Stress cable system by pulling against lever this function in some cases.
10 times with maximum force that would be 2. [ ] Install radius bushing between frame/fork
used during a panic stop. and mounting nut, if surface is not flat.
The mounting nut should be the type with a nylon
Adjusting pad center insert so that it cannot work loose. If no such nut is avail-
The purpose of the centering adjustment is to ensure able, use Loctite 222 or 242 on the threads.
that the pads reach the rim simultaneously. The centering 3. [ ] Install flat washer under mounting nut.
adjustment is not primarily designed to ensure that the The brake should be mounted loosely enough so
pads end up equally clear of the rim when released, as a that it can be centered by hand but securely enough that
sidepull or cantilever does. When the centering is set so it will not shift on its own. A nylon insert or Loctite on
that the pads reach the rim simultaneously, they will also the threads, not high torque, ensures that brake will not
end up clearing the rim almost evenly. If not set in this work loose.
way, then the first pad to reach the rim will push the rim 4. [ ] Secure nut to torque of 12–36in-lbs.
to the side until the other pad meets the rim. This then
requires higher braking effort.
10. [ ] Operate brake and observe whether brake LUBRICATION
tends to push rim to one side or one pad 1. [ ] Oil arm pivots at front and back of each arm.
reaches rim before other. If either condition 2. [ ] Oil spring ends where they bear against
exists, centering adjustment is needed. caliper-arm posts and bridge posts.
11. [ ] Turn centering screw clockwise to move the 3. [ ] Oil sockets in caliper arm for straddle wire
brake’s right pad (as seen when facing brake) end(s) and pinch mechanism (if any).
away from rim and left pad toward rim. 4. [ ] Oil threads of any pinch mechanism on
12. [ ] Turn centering screw counterclockwise to straddle wire or primary wire.
move brake’s right pad (as seen when facing 5. [ ] Oil threads of adjusting barrel at end of
brake) toward rim and left pad away from rim. cable housing.
6. [ ] On many Weinmann and Dia-Compe brakes,
Fine tuning brake-pad clearance there is tab on back side of front caliper arm
When released, each pad should clear the rim by at that rides in slot in face of rear caliper arm
least 1mm and a maximum of 2mm. The clearances need so that arms always move in unison. Oil tab.
not be precisely identical. Use feeler gauges to check clear-
ance at the point the pad(s) is closest to the rim.
13. [ ] Move cable adjusting barrel in to increase PIVOT ADJUSTMENT
clearance or out to reduce clearance, until Most centerpull pivots are not adjustable. Non-
each pad clears rim by 1–2mm. adjustable pivots are characterized by the lack of a locknut
on the back end of the pivot bolt or by a locknut mounted
in a recess in the back side of the brake-arm bridge. The
36 – 36
36 – RIM BRAKES
pivot is usually a bushing that is longer than the hole in
the caliper arm. When the pivot bolt is tightened, it seats
against the bushing but not the caliper arm. The bolt
should be checked for proper security on all new bikes
and during all repair situations. The bushing parts may be
replaced, when available, to reduce free play in the pivots,
but this is rarely done. Convex washer
Adjustable pivots are found on some models, including
the old Shimano Tourney centerpull. When the pivot is Concave washer
adjustable, there will be a fully accessible locknut for each
pivot bolt on the back side of the brake-arm bridge. Hold 36.65 A threaded-stud/curved-washer pad design.
the pivot bolt stationary, then turn the locknut counter- Pads on centerpull calipers swing up as they move in;
clockwise (as viewed from the back of the caliper) to set the pad height so that the bottom edge of the pad is
release the pivot bolt. The pivot bolt may now be turned even with the bottom edge of the rim’s braking surface.
clockwise to reduce play or counterclockwise to reduce Bad
binding. After changing the adjustment, hold the pivot
bolt stationary and secure the locknut.
PAD INSTALLATION AND Good
ALIGNMENTS 36.66 Correct centerpull pad height.

1. [ ] Rock caliper bridge side to side until pads 3. [ ] Determine which pad-alignment system to
are equidistant from rim. use by looking at the way the shoes are
2. [ ] Check each pad for directional arrows and/or mounted to caliper arm, then use appro-
right/left indications; make sure pads will be priate pad-alignment-system procedure to
installed with arrows pointing in the direction achieve following tolerances (in order indi-
of rim rotation and that any pad marked with cated by pad-alignment-system procedure):
“R” is mounted on right side of bike and any Pad toe: Entry-end of pad clears rim by
marked with “L” is on left side of bike. .5–1.5mm when exit-end touches rim.
Determine what type of pad-alignment system is on Vertical angle: Vertical angle of pad face is
the calipers. Use the procedures outlined in the earlier parallel to vertical angle of rim face.
section for SIMPLE THREADED-STUD-PAD ALIGNMENT Pad tangent: Top corners of pad are equi-
(page 36-8) or THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD
Pad height: Bottom edge of pad face is even
ALIGNMENT (page 36-10). Align the pads to the tolerances with bottom edge of rim’s braking surface.
described in the next step.
CABLE ATTACHMENT,
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT,
AND CENTERING
1. [ ] Set cable adjusting barrels so that they are
turned 3–4 turns out from fully in.
2. [ ] Hook cable carrier onto straddle wire (name
36.64 A simple threaded-stud pad-alignment design. side of carrier should face out).
3. [ ] Thread primary wire through pinch bolt. If
pinch bolt is in carrier correctly, primary wire
should be on same side of cable carrier as
straddle wire.
5. [ ] Check that wire end is properly seated in
lever and that housing ends are fully seated
in their stops and adjusting barrels.
36 – 37
36 – RIM BRAKES
6. [ ] Use fourth-hand tool to simultaneously
tighten straddle wire and primary wire
REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY
1. [ ] Disconnect cables.
by bracing fourth-hand on bottom side of
2. [ ] Turn mounting bolt(s) counterclockwise
cable carrier, then pulling primary wire
(spring tension will be lost) to remove. (On
through pinch bolt.
Dia-Compe #AD-990/992, mounting bolts
7. [ ] Secure pinch nut enough to hold cable tem-
are hex-socket bolts, not large nuts with
porarily, then remove fourth-hand tool.
13mm pair of flats and 19mm hex.)
8. [ ] Use an open-end 8mm, 9mm, or 10mm
3. [ ] Caliper arms should pull off studs once
wrench to hold pinch bolt while tightening
mounting bolts are removed.
nut to torque of 50–70in-lbs, then remove
third-hand tool. Disassembling Shimano U-brake
9. [ ] Stretch cable system by squeezing lever It is not necessary to disassemble these brakes for
firmly at least 10 times. If cable seems to slip, adequate cleaning and lubrication. It is recommended to leave
loosen cable pinch and repeat from step 4.
Shimano U-brakes assembled, except to replace damaged parts!
10. [ ] Check pad clearance by pushing one pad to
rim while measuring gap between other pad
and rim at closest point.
11. [ ] Use cable adjusting barrel to adjust clear-
ance so that gap at one pad (when other
touches rim) is 2–3mm. If clearance cannot
be achieved when adjusting barrel is turned
all the way in, or out more than 5 full turns,
then cable must be reset in cable-carrier
pinch mechanism.
12. [ ] Center pads by rocking caliper bridge to one
side or other by hand. Loosen mounting nut
if necessary.
Tension plate
Dust cover
FINISHING
finish, rim cleaning, and test-ride procedures. 36.67 Shimano U-brake.
1. [ ] Remove plastic dustcap or “shark’s tooth.”
2. [ ] Put a hex key of appropriate size in spring-
U-BRAKE CALIPERS tension plate.

3. [ ] For inner arm (no pinch bolt), turn hex key
U-brake calipers are similar to centerpull brakes, but small amount clockwise while pressing in.
the pivot studs are an integral part of the frame, rather Then pull out with wrench and let tension
than simply a part of a caliper bridge that is bolted to the plate unwind (counterclockwise). Tension
frame. The fact that the pivot studs are part the frame plate should pull out after spring tension is
makes U-brakes appear similar to cantilever brakes, but the released.
3. [ ] For outer arm (with pinch bolt), turn hex key
dimensions and locations of the pivot studs in relation to
small amount counterclockwise while pressing
the rim are completely different. Because of those differ- in. Then pull out with wrench and let tension
ences, U-brakes are a completely different brake system plate unwind (clockwise). Tension plate should
than cantilever brakes. pull out after spring tension is released.
Another variety of brakes, called Rollercam brakes, 4. [ ] Pull spring(s) out and observe which end of
fits on the same pivot studs as U-brakes. Rollercam each spring was in caliper arm and which
brakes have been discontinued and never were as color spring was in each arm.
popular as U-brakes. Parts availability is limited. Ser-
vice instructions for Rollercam brakes are not included
in this book. It is strongly recommended to replace
problematic Rollercam brakes with U-brakes.
36 – 38
36 – RIM BRAKES
Disassembing Dia-Compe AD-990/992 Assembling Shimano U-brake

1. [ ] Grease springs.
2. [ ] Install gold spring in arm without pinch bolt.
Long end should be pointing out and should
be winding in clockwise direction.
3. [ ] Install silver spring in arm with pinch bolt.
Long end should be pointing out and should
be winding in counterclockwise direction.
Dust cover 4. [ ] Install tension plates with hex-socket fitting
face out, with end of spring in hole in plate.
5. [ ] Plate on gold spring should be wound
clockwise about 60°, until tab on perimeter
of plate is past stop inside arm. Then, press
in firmly on tension plate with hex key to
seat it in arm.
6. [ ] Plate on silver spring should be wound
Spring-adjuster nut counterclockwise about 60°, until tab on
perimeter of plate is past stop inside arm.
36.68 Dia-Compe AD-990 U-brake. Then, press in firmly on tension plate with
hex key to seat it in arm.
Ratchet
7. [ ] Place dustcap(s) over tension plate so
protruding spring will engage slot in back
of dustcap and so two notches in back
perimeter of dustcap line up with stop tabs
inside arm(s).
36.69 Dia-Compe AD-992 spring-tension mechanism.

1. [ ] Pull off large spring-tension nut or ratchet.
INSTALLATION OF CALIPER
2. [ ] Remove plastic dust cover. ARMS
3. [ ] Pull out spring, observing which color spring
comes from which arm. Dia-Compe AD-990/992
1. [ ] Install arm without pinch bolt first, then
other arm.
ASSEMBLING CALIPER ARMS 2. [ ] Grease springs.
3. [ ] Install gold spring in pinch-bolt arm and sil-
All models of U-Brakes fit the same pivot studs as
ver spring in arm without pinch bolt.
Rollercam brakes but not the same pivot studs as canti-
4. [ ] Install dust covers.
levers. The pivot stud should be 9mm outside diameter and
5. [ ] Install spring-adjuster nuts.
16.5mm long. It may be an internal or external thread. A 6. [ ] Model AD-992 only: Install right and left ratch-
conversion kit may be needed if the pivot stud is male. ets. Then install and secure mounting bolts.
1. [ ] Fit caliper arm(s) onto pivot stud(s) and Model AD-990 only: Install, but do not
check whether they are good fit. secure, mounting bolts.
2. [ ] If they are tight going on, pivot stud may be
rusted, covered with paint, or swollen at tip Shimano
if mounting bolt was over-tightened. In any 1. [ ] Install arm without pinch bolt first, then
case, reduce diameter with an emery cloth. other arm.
3. [ ] If pivot stud is short, it will not protrude 2. [ ] Thread in, but do not secure, mounting
past end of brass bushing in caliper arm bolts/nuts.
when arm is slipped all way on. File or grind 3. [ ] Hold caliper arms in their fully open position
back end of bushing in arm to shorten it. while securing mounting bolts/nuts to torque
4. [ ] Remove caliper arm after checking fit. of 50–60in-lbs.
5. [ ] Grease outside of pivot stud(s).
6. [ ] Add Loctite 222 or 242 to female threads
(in pivot stud or mounting nut).
36 – 39
36 – RIM BRAKES
PAD INSTALLATION AND setting up U-brakes. Normally, this lowest setting would
place the bottom edge of the pad even with the bottom
ADJUSTMENT edge of the braking surface on the rim. Unfortunately, the
1. [ ] Loosen shoe-mounting bolts/nuts just braking surface is not always clearly delineated. If the brak-
enough so that shoe alignment can be ing surface gradually transitions to the “bottom” of the
manipulated with your fingers. rim, then the correct height is somewhat subjective. The
Determine what type of pad-alignment system is on following illustration shows good U-brake-pad height on
the calipers. Use the procedures outlined in the earlier a rim with a clearly delineated braking surface.
section for THREADED-STUD/CURVED-WASHER PAD ALIGN- Bad
MENT (page 36-10) or SMOOTH-STUD/CURVED-WASHER
PAD ALIGNMENT (page 36-11). Align the pads to the toler-
ances described in the next step.
Good
36.72 Correct U-brake-pad height.
2. [ ] Determine which pad-alignment system to
use by looking at the way the shoes are
mounted to caliper arm, then use appropriate
pad-alignment-system procedure to achieve
Convex washer
following tolerances (in order indicated by
pad-alignment-system procedure):
Concave washer Pad toe: Entry-end of pad clears rim by
36.70 A threaded-stud/curved-washer pad-alignment .5–1.0mm when exit-end touches rim.
design. Vertical angle: Vertical angle of pad face is
Shoe-anchor nut
Pad height: Bottom edge of pad face is even
with bottom edge of rim’s braking surface.
Smooth-stud engagement: Position shoes so
Convex washer Concave washer that both contact rim and amount of shoe
stud protruding past anchor bolts is equal on
Shoe-anchor both sides.
bolt
INSTALLING AND SIZING

Shoe stud
STRADDLE WIRE
1. [ ] Install brake lever and cable system, if not
already installed.
2. [ ] Lubricate threads of pinch mechanism on cal-
iper arm and threads of cable adjusting barrel.
36.71 A smooth-stud/curved-washer pad-alignment 4. [ ] Install cable carrier on primary brake wire so
design. that name side and/or pinch nut faces away
from frame or fork.
Pad height is a very critical consideration with U-brakes. 5. [ ] Position cable carrier so that there is min-
The nature of a typical U-brake arm causes the pads to imum of 20mm between it and anything that
move up significantly as the pads move in toward the rim. it would bump into when cable is pulled by
The compression after the pads contact the rim also results brake lever. It is preferable to have similar
in significant upward motion. The additional pad travel that clearance (minimum 20mm) between bottom
results from pad wear has an even greater effect on the of carrier and caliper arms, if possible.
height of the pad as it reaches the rim. For these reasons, 6. [ ] Hook one end of straddle wire into caliper
it is critical to set the pads as low on the rim as is safe when arm with socket. This socket should be oiled.
36 – 40
36 – RIM BRAKES
7. [ ] Place straddle wire in cable-carrier cradle, 5. [ ] If adjusting barrel is already 5 full turns out
between carrier and primary cable. and brake lever is too close to handlebar
8. [ ] Thread end of straddle wire through pinch when pads reach rim, loosen straddle-wire
mechanism. Oil pinch-bolt threads. pinch bolt and draw more cable through
9. [ ] With brake pads held to rim by third-hand tool, with fourth-hand tool.
simultaneously draw slack out of straddle wire
and primary wire with fourth-hand tool.
10. [ ] Secure pinch bolt to torque of 50–70in-lbs. PAD CENTERING
Shimano types
SETTING RETURN-SPRING A tension-adjusting screw for the left arm return
spring is recessed in a hole in the outward side of the
TENSION: DIA-COMPE AD-990/992 caliper arm. It is fit by a 2mm hex key.
AD-990 1. [ ] If pad is too close on left, turn screw clock-
wise to increase clearance on left side and
1. [ ] Loosen mounting bolts if they have been
secured. reduce clearance on right side.
2. [ ] Turn left tension-adjusting nut approxi- 2. [ ] If pad is too close on right, turn screw coun-
mately 20°–30° clockwise and hold it sta- terclockwise to decrease clearance on left
tionary while tightening mounting bolt to side and increase clearance on right side.
50–60in-lbs. 3. [ ] Operate brake two or three times, then
3. [ ] Turn right tension-adjusting nut approxi- recheck pad centering and adjust further if
mately 20°–30° counterclockwise, then necessary.
hold it stationary while tightening mounting Dia-Compe types
bolt to 50–60in-lbs. The spring tension on either side is adjustable, but
AD-992 only one side needs to be adjusted to improve the cen-
1. [ ] If brake return springs have too much ten- tering. The AD-990 must have its mounting bolt loosened
sion already, release torque on mounting before the spring-adjuster nut can be turned.
bolts and tension will be lost. Do not turn the adjuster nut past the MAX mark on
2. [ ] Secure mounting bolts to 50–60in-lbs. the AD-992. If the mark is reached, loosen both mount-
3. [ ] Turn spring adjusters with 19mm wrench ing bolts to release all tension and start from scratch. Do
to add tension. Turn left one clockwise to
not force the spring-adjusting nuts in the opposite direction to reduce
increase tension and turn right one counter-
the tension!
clockwise to increase tension.
1. [ ] If left pad is too close to rim, turn left spring-
4. [ ] Make sure mark on spring adjuster does not
adjuster nut clockwise to increase clearance
pass MAX mark on outside of caliper arm.
on left and reduce clearance on right.
2. [ ] If right pad is too close to rim, turn right
SETTING PAD CLEARANCE spring-adjuster nut counterclockwise to
increase clearance on right and reduce clear-
1. [ ] Squeeze brake lever firmly 10 times so that
cable system will be stressed and checked ance on left.
for failure.
2. [ ] Release lever, then pull it gently until pads just
touch rim. There should be minimum 25mm
FINISHING
clearance at this point between lever and bar. See the section called FINISHING (page 36-42) for cable
3. [ ] If there is >25mm clearance, turn cable finish, rim cleaning, and test-ride procedures.
adjusting barrel in to reduce clearance at
lever when pads reach rim. If cable adjusting
barrel does not provide enough adjustment,
loosen straddle-wire pinch bolt and let some
more cable back through pinch mechanism.
4. [ ] If there is <25mm clearance and cable
adjusting barrel is less than 5 full turns out
of lever, use adjusting barrel (until it is up to
5 full turns out) to adjust clearance.
36 – 41
36 – RIM BRAKES
BMX/FREESTYLE CABLE heads to release from bearing unit.) When

done, bearing unit should be parallel to lower
DETANGLERS cable-stop plate. A tiny gap should be visible

between lower cable-stop plate and bottom
of bearing unit, as well.
GYRO CABLE DETANGLER 16. [ ] Check for lost motion at lever when brake is
operated. Use adjusting barrels at either end
1. [ ] Disassemble headset and remove upper of single piece of housing on upper cable
pressed head-tube race. unit to eliminate this lost motion.
2. [ ] Install lower cable-stop plate (cupped-face 17. [ ] Pull slowly on lever until pads just contact
down) over head tube, then press in race rim, then measure between upper cable-
and assemble headset to point adjustable stop plate and top of bearing unit (where
race is installed. they would contact if they moved closer).
3. [ ] Install 6mm spacer washer on top of adjust- Less than 6mm indicates pads are too far
able race. from rim (ideally, it should be more than
4. [ ] Place Gyro bearing unit over headset with 7mm). NOTE: At all times, make pad-clear-
slotted plate up. ance adjustments at brake caliper! Adjust-
5. [ ] Install upper cable-stop plate (cupped-face ing pad-clearance at detangler or brake
up). Aluminum plate: Install with writing in lever will reduce maximum brake power
front and right-side up. available!
6. [ ] Install any necessary washers and stem,
then adjust headset normally.
7. [ ] Install brake caliper and adjust pads.
8. [ ] Install lower cable-unit adjusting barrels into
lower cable-stop plate until ends of adjusting FINISHING
barrels are flush with top surface of plate,
then secure adjusting-barrel locknuts. (Lower
Trimming, soldering, and capping wires
cable unit has heads on double-cable portion
but no head on single-cable portion.)
Excess length is unsightly and may get caught in the wheel
9. [ ] Hook wire heads into lower plate of bearing or brake. Soldering prevents fraying and allows reuse of
unit. the cable whether a wire cap is used or not. Wire caps do
10. [ ] Size housing at rear caliper, then route wire not prevent fraying, but they do prevent someone getting
through housing and into caliper. poked by the wire.
11. [ ] Adjust cable at caliper (by adjusting barrel, Trim the inner wire to leave about 25–30mm of wire
if any, or at pinch mechanism) to achieve past the pinch mechanism. Before doing this, check to see
desired pad clearance (V-brake: 1–1.5mm if the caliper manufacturer has provided a spot to hook
per side), then center caliper. the free end of the wire behind the caliper arm. If there
12. [ ] Thread upper cable-unit adjusting barrels
is a good spot to do this, leave the wire just long enough
fully into upper cable-stop plate (longer
housing segment, if any, of double cable
to hook it in place.
1. [ ] Trim inner wire with wire cutters 25–30mm
segment goes to opposite side of bike from
past cable-pinch mechanism.
brake lever being used).
13. [ ] Hook cable heads into slots in upper plate of The next step suggests soldering the end of the wire.
bearing unit. This is easy to do and prevents fraying. To solder, a solder-
14. [ ] Attach single-cable end of upper-cable unit ing gun, thin 40/60 rosin-core solder, and soldering flux
to brake lever, then turn adjusting barrel(s) are needed. Put flux on the inner wire. Hold the solder-
fully in. ing gun tip flat against one side of the wire until the flux
15. [ ] At this point, bearing unit should be resting sizzles away. Still holding the soldering gun tip flat against
on top of lower cable stop and when operat- one side of the wire, hold the tip of the solder against
ing brake, lower unit should be heard striking the other side of the wire until the heated wire causes
lower cable stop when lever is released. Turn
the solder to melt and flow into the wire. Some wires are
adjusting barrels in upper cable stop each 1/2
turn, then check again for this noise. Repeat
specially coated or made of stainless steel and will not
half-turn adjustment of both adjusting barrels accept solder. In these cases the wire will melt the solder,
as many times as necessary to eliminate this but the solder will not flow into the wire. Instead, it beads
noise. (This process insures that there is no up and runs off the wire.
slack on upper wires, which would allow wire
36 – 42
36 – RIM BRAKES
Inner wire
Solder
Solder-gun
tip
36.73 Correct soldering technique.

2. [ ] Solder inner wire end.
Wire-end caps are sometimes used instead of solder
to prevent fraying. This will not work. Crimping the cap
onto the wire frequently causes fraying. A soldered wire will
not fray when the cap is crimped on. The real function of
the wire cap is to cover the sharp end of the wire.
3. [ ] Put cap on end of inner wire if desired.
Rim cleaning and test-ride procedures
It is always important to clean the braking surface
on a rim as you finish any brake job. It is also a very
good idea to test-ride the bike at that time. Cleaning the
rims with alcohol or acetone removes residues left from
hands or just dirt left over from riding. Removing either
ensures optimum brake performance. Test-riding should
be done to check for squeal and to check overall brake
performance. If squeal is detected, check for caliper-arm
pivot play and adequate brake-pad toe.
36 – 43
36 – RIM BRAKES
RIM-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 36-2)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Brake squeals when applied hard or softly.
Loose pivot(s). Adjust pivot(s) if adjustable and/or replace pivot
bushings. Condition is not always correctable, par-
ticularly with cantilever brakes.
Contamination on rims (oil or dirt). Clean rims with solvent or heavy-duty cleanser
that leaves no residue.
Brakes shoes need toe adjustment. Toe pads to a maximum clearance of 1.5mm at
tail end of pad.
Caliper arms are flexing. Long and/or skinny caliper arms are prone to flex-
ing, which can only be prevented by using higher-
quality, stiffer arms.
Humidity conditions. Changes in humidity may change a brake’s ten-
dency to squeal; there is no solution.
Contamination on pad faces. Replace pads or regrind pad face(s).
Pads incompatible with rim. Changing brands of pads may reduce squeal.
Pads not broken in to rim. New pads may squeal under high braking force
only, then not squeal once they have conformed
to the shape of the rim. Recheck all pad align-
ments or run emery cloth between the pads and
the rim while applying the brakes gently to accel-
erate pad break-in.
SYMPTOM: Brake mechanism(s) squeak when applied and/or released.
Lever pivot(s) need oil. Oil lever pivots.
Cable-anchor pivots in lever need oil. Oil cable-anchor pivots.
Cable-end socket for barrel-ended cable needs oil Oil cable-end socket.
in lever.
Spring ends need oil where they brace against cali- Oil spring ends.
per arms.
Spring coils need oil. Oil spring coils.
SYMPTOM: Sidepull caliper will not hold its center adjustment.
Caliper-mounting nut not secure. Secure caliper-mounting nut.
Spring not fixed securely in slot in spring-mounting Peen down slot in spring-mounting plate to eliminate
plate. play between spring and spring-mounting plate.
Caliper pivots need oil. Oil caliper pivots.
Spring ends need oil. Oil spring ends.
Spring is fatigued. Replace spring.
SYMPTOM: Properly centered sidepull caliper has one arm that moves in before the other.
Cable housing resists motion of only one caliper arm. This is a normal response and needs no correc-
tion. The arms act uniformly once both pads
reach the rim.
Housing loop to rear brake may be too short, par- Lengthen housing loop.
ticularly on BMX bikes, so that it loses all bow
before the pad contacts the rim.
Continued
36 – 44
36 – RIM BRAKES
RIM-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 36-2 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Sidepull-caliper-pivot adjustment does not stay correctly adjusted.
Improper centering technique. See section on sidepull-caliper-centering adjustment
(page 36-30).
Inadequate adjustment security. Reset adjustment and secure adequately.
Heavy-duty use. Treat adjustment nut and adjustment-locknut
threads with Loctite 222 and reset adjustment.
SYMPTOM: Sidepull-caliper-pivot adjustment remains too tight no matter how it is adjusted.
Adjustment nut or pivot-bolt threads are stripped. Inspect and replace damaged parts.
Return spring is fatigued. Check and replace spring.
SYMPTOM: Sidepull caliper will not release completely after release of the lever.
Pivot needs oil. Oil pivot.
Pivot too tight. Adjust pivot to eliminate bind and/or play.
Spring fatigued. Check and replace spring.
Friction in cable system. Inspect for poor cable routing, then remove cable
system and inspect for rust, kinks, improperly fin-
ished housing ends, and lack of lubrication.
Sticky lever. See BRAKE LEVERS chapter (page 34-8).
SYMPTOM: Centerpull caliper will not hold its centering adjustment.
Mounting nut not secure. Secure mounting nut.
SYMPTOM: Cantilever brakes cannot be properly centered.
Wheel out-of-center in frame/fork. Check and correct wheel centering.
Pivot studs in need of grease. Remove calipers and grease pivot studs.
Link wire improperly set up. Set up again, using proper Pro-Set tool and tech-
nique.
Primary wire approaches brake from off-center It may be necessary to deviate from standard
approach. setup procedures to center brake when frame
manufacturer forces primary wire to approach
brake from off-center.
Caliper arm not pivoting freely on damaged (flared) Remove arm and use Bicycle Research BM-1 pivot-
pivot stud. stud mill (or emery cloth) to reduce flare.
Pivot bushing of caliper arm longer than pivot stud. File caliper-pivot bushing shorter.
Deformed mounting washer pressing against face Replace washer.
of caliper arm.
Depth of shoe stud in each anchor bolt not equal. Reset shoe-stud depth.
Damaged, mis-matched, or mis-installed springs. Disassemble caliper and inspect springs.
Springs not engaged in equal hole positions in Reposition springs.
multiple-hole pivot studs.
Pivot studs mis-positioned. Not correctable.
Continued
36 – 45
36 – RIM BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Cantilever arm is not pivoting freely.
Pivot stud needs grease. Grease pivot stud.
Pivot stud flared from over-tight mounting bolt. Remove arm and use Bicycle Research BM-1 pivot-
stud mill (or emery cloth) to reduce flare.
Rust on pivot stud. Clean with emery cloth and grease.
Caliper-arm-pivot bushing longer than pivot stud. File bushing shorter.
Deformed mounting washer pressing against face Replace washer.
of caliper arm.
SYMPTOM: Cantilever pads force their way to below the rim.
Pads adjusted too low on rim. Reset pads to as high as possible on rim face.
Poor vertical-angle alignment causes pads to travel Align vertical angle of pad face to match vertical
too far. angle of rim face.
V-shaped rim cross-section incompatible with can- – Use firm pads to reduce deflection.
tilever brakes. – Switch rim to more vertical or inverted-slope
face.
SYMPTOM: Cantilever pads cannot be adjusted to have proper height and vertical-angle alignment at
the same time.
Improper pivot-stud position in relation to rim. – No complete solution possible; sacrifice proper
alignment for best possible height.
– Wider rim, narrower rim, or rim with taller braking
surface may help.
Caliper arm with threaded-stud/curved-washer If available, switch fat washers from outboard of
pad-alignment system is having to swing too far caliper arm to between caliper arm and brake shoe.
to reach rim.
SYMPTOM: U-Brake will not release completely when hooked up, even though there is no problem with
the cables detached.
Straddle wire too short. Lengthen straddle wire.
SYMPTOM: Shimano U-Brake cannot be centered using the correct technique on the adjustment screw.
Pivot stud rusty or needing lube. Remove, clean, and lube.
Improper mounting. Loosen mounting bolts and resecure with both cal-
iper arms open fully, to reset basic spring tension.
Rim cannot be centered to pivot studs. Loosen mounting bolt on side where clearance is
greater and re-secure caliper arm with pad rotated
closer to rim.
Poorly matched springs. Reset the basic spring tension to be higher or
lower as necessary on just one side.
Continued
36 – 46
36 – RIM BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Brake levers bottom out easily when pads are set at minimal clearance to the rims.
Excess housing-loop length. Shorten housing loops to minimum recom-
mended length.
Spongy housing. Upgrade housing.
Poorly finished housing ends and/or lack of end Finish properly and use end caps.
caps where they might improve fit.
Light-duty inner wires. Upgrade inner wires.
Levers mis-positioned on handlebars. Reposition levers to recommended guidelines.
Mismatched leverage ratio of lever and caliper arms. Replace one or the other, using brand- and model-
matched equipment whenever possible.
Poor vertical-angle pad alignment on cantilever Realign vertical-angle alignment of pads.
brakes.
SYMPTOM: Brake has inadequate stopping power, but levers are not bottoming out on handlebars.
Excess cable friction. Set housing-loop lengths properly, lubricate
cables, finish ends properly, and use end caps
where appropriate.
Poor pad alignment. Realign pads to improve contact to rim.
Pad surfaces hardened from overheating or age. Replace pads.
Cable carrier, link-wire head, or link-unit head is Check that there is 20mm clearance between
bumping into housing stop. cable carrier, link-wire head, or link-unit head and
housing stop.
Straddle wire too long. Shorten straddle wire to minimum recommended
length.
Oil on rim. Clean rim and replace pads.
Water on rim. Use high-performance brake pads.
SYMPTOM: Brake levers require a very high force to start motion, or when pulled gently, they seem to
move as though indexed (jerky, not smooth).
where appropriate.
Adjustable pivot adjusted too tight. Check pivot adjustment.
Caliper pivot(s) need lubrication. Lubricate caliper pivots.
Cable-anchor pivot in lever sticking. Oil cable-anchor pivot.
Barrel-type cable end sticking in lever socket. Lubricate cable-end socket.
SYMPTOM: Levers require excess force to pull.
Dual-pivot caliper is off-center, causing rim to Check and correct pad centering.
deflect laterally before second pad will contact.
where appropriate.
Caliper-spring tension set too high. Reset caliper-spring tension.
Lever pivots and caliper pivots sticky. Oil all pivots.
SYMPTOM: Cable frays where it leaves brake lever.
Bent or kinked cable housing. Replace or trim housing.
Continued
36 – 47
36 – RIM BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Lever fails to release.
Caliper pivot sticking. Check pivot adjustment, pivot lubrication, pivot
studs for damage or rust, or for deformed washer
on face of caliper.
Calipers with adjustable spring tension set too soft. Reset spring tension.
where appropriate.
Lever pivot sticking. Oil pivot.
Adjustable lever pivot too tight. – Check for gum-cover interference.
– Check for bent pivot or lever.
– Adjust lever pivot.
SYMPTOM: Brakes are grabby or lack sensitivity.
Pivot adjustment loose. Eliminate all free play if possible.
Wide or narrow seam on rim. No solution.
Offset seam on non-welded rim. Use rim pliers to eliminate offset.
Damaged rim sidewalls bulging out. Use rim pliers to eliminate bulge.
Rim out-of-round (particularly with sloped side- Improve rim round.
wall rims).
Improper match of lever and caliper. Use brand- and model-matched parts.
where appropriate.
SYMPTOM: Brake pads rub tire.
Pad height set wrong. Reset pad height.
Loose sidepull-caliper pivot. Eliminate all free play.
Wheel mounted incorrectly. Check and remount wheel height and center.
Brake caliper’s reach too short for frame and Replace calipers.
wheel combination.
36 – 48
37 – DISC BRAKES
Compression nut 13mm nut Cartridge

retainer
Hose Cover Gasket

Compression fitting Bladder
Lever body
NOTE: LEVER ASSEMBLY SHOWN Bleed screw
AT 3/4 SCALE OF CALIPER ASSEMBLY
Boot
Hose
Wavy washer
Clip
Cylinder cartridge Pivot shaft
Compression nut Wavy washer

Lever
Compression fitting Banjo bolt
O-ring
Banjo fitting
Back caliper-half
O-ring
O-ring Front caliper-half

Piston seal Bleed valve
Piston
Piston
Piston seal
Bleed-valve cover
Caliper bolt
Pad Oval washer

Pad
Caliper bolt
Oval washer
Caliper-mounting bolt
37 – DISC BRAKES
GENERAL INFORMATION 37 – 1 MAGURA DISC BRAKES: GUSTAV M 37 – 28
TERMINOLOGY 37 – 1 TOOLS 37 – 28
PREREQUISITES 37 – 2 BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 28
INDICATIONS 37 – 2 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 29
TOOL CHOICES 37 – 3 INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 37 – 30
COMPLICATIONS 37 – 4 FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 30
ABOUT THE REST OF THIS SECTION 37 – 4 MAGURA DISC BRAKES:
GENERAL SERVICES 37 – 5 SINGLE-PISTON MODELS 37 – 31
WHEEL-BUILDING GUIDELINES 37 – 5 TOOLS 37 – 31
ROTOR INSTALLATION 37 – 5 BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 31
WHEEL INSTALLATION 37 – 5 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 33
MILLING I.S. MOUNTS 37 – 6 INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 37 – 33
ROTOR ALIGNMENT 37 – 6 FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 33
AVID MECHANICAL DISC 37 – 8 MAGURA DISC BRAKES:
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 37 – 8 DUAL-PISTON MODELS 37 – 34
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ONLY 37 – 9 TOOLS 37 – 34
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 9 BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 34
CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 9 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 35
FORMULA DISC BRAKES: INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 37 – 35
4RACING & B4 SERIES 37 – 11 FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 36
BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 11 SHIMANO DISC BRAKES:
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT 37 – 12 MECHANICAL MODELS 37 – 37
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 12 CALIPER INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 37 – 37
HYDRAULIC SERVICES 37 – 12 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 38
CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 14 CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 38
LEVER OVERHAUL 37 – 14
SHIMANO DISC BRAKES:
HAYES DISC BRAKES: HMX-1 (MECHANICAL) 37 – 15
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT 37 – 15 DUAL-PISTON MODELS 37 – 39
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 15 TOOLS 37 – 39
CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 16 ASSEMBLY AND OIL FILLING 37 – 39
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND ALIGNMENT 37 – 41
HAYES DISC BRAKES: HYDRAULIC MODELS 37 – 17 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 42
ABOUT THIS SECTION 37 – 17 HOSE REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 42
TOOLS 37 – 17 BLEEDING 37 – 42
BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 17
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 17 SHIMANO DISC BRAKES:
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT 37 – 19 DEORE XT (QUAD-PISTON) 37 – 43
INSTALLING OR SIZING HOSE 37 – 19 BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 43
FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 20 PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 46
CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 20 BLEEDING 37 – 46
MASTER-CYLINDER SERVICE: COMP, MAG, DH, & 98/99 37 – 21 SRAM 9.0 & GRIMECA SYSTEM 8
MASTER-CYLINDER SERVICE: HFX-9 BRAKE LEVER 37 – 22 DISC BRAKES 37 – 47
RESERVOIR SERVICE: HFX-9 BRAKE LEVER 37 – 23 BRAKE INSTALLATION 37 – 47
HOPE DISC-BRAKES: PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 48
CLOSED 2, MINI, & M4 37 – 23 HOSE INSTALLATION 37 – 49
MINI & M4 INSTALLATION 37 – 23 DISC-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING 37 – 50
CLOSED 2 INSTALLATION 37 – 24
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT 37 – 24
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37 – 24
INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 37 – 25
MINI/M4 FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 25
CLOSED 2 FILLING AND BLEEDING 37 – 26
CALIPER OVERHAUL 37 – 27
37 – DISC BRAKES
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Bleed valve: A permanent part of the caliper that
is opened and closed for the purpose of bleeding the
This chapter covers a broad range of hydraulic and hydraulic system.
mechanical disc brakes. Hydraulic disc brakes utilize Brake lever: The lever attached to the handlebar that is
hydraulic mechanisms to transfer load from the brake operated by the rider to control the brakes. If the disc brake
lever to the caliper. Mechanical disc brakes utilize a cable is hydraulic, the brake lever includes the master cylinder.
system (just like a typical rim brake) to transfer load from Caliper: The mechanism that is fixed to the frame or
the brake lever to the caliper. In addition to sections for fork and encloses a part of the rotor. Inside the caliper are
specific brands and models, this chapter includes sections the pads and the mechanisms that convert the load being
that apply to all disc brakes, such as rotor installation and created at the brake lever to the loads that are applied to
repair, wheel-design guidelines, and wheel installation. the pads to resist the rotation of the rotor.
Caliper arm: Found on mechanical disc brakes, this is
the lever arm that converts the linear motion of the brake
GENERAL INFORMATION cable into rotational motion of the mechanisms inside the
caliper. One end of the arm pivots in the caliper body and
the other end has a pinch mechanism for attachment of
TERMINOLOGY the cable. Although the caliper arm is a simple lever arm,
Adapter bracket: Adapts caliper designed for one its shape may not be long and skinny as one might expect
type of mount to fit on a different type of mount. from an item called an “arm.”
Ball ramp: A mechanical device that converts rota- Compression fitting: A piece that is compressed
tional motion into linear motion by means of ball bearings between two parts of the assembly at the end of a hydrau-
moving from one end of a sloped ramp to the other end lic hose. The compression causes the fitting to maintain a
of the sloped ramp. pressure-tight fit to the hose. This fitting is shaped some-
Banjo bolt: The part of a banjo fitting that goes what like an olive, so it is sometimes called an olive fitting
through the banjo head and into the caliper or brake lever. or is abbreviated to olive.
There is an oil path that starts in the threaded end of the Compression nut/sleeve: Part of the fitting at the
bolt and comes out of the side of the bolt near its head. end of a hydraulic hose. When the compression nut or
Banjo fitting: A fitting shaped like a banjo that con- compression sleeve is threaded toward another part, the
nects a hydraulic hose to the caliper or brake lever. Banjo compression fitting that is between the two parts is delib-
fittings enable adjustment of the direction from which the erately crushed. Also called hose nut.
hose approaches the caliper or brake lever. Diaphragm: Found in the master-cylinder reservoir
Barbed fitting: A fitting for the end of the hydraulic on hydraulic brake levers, this rubber cover is elastic so
hose that has sharp-edged rings on the fitting that inserts there is room for the hydraulic fluid to expand when it is
into the end of the hose. The sharp-edged rings are heated. Also may be called a membrane.
angled such that the edges don’t catch when the fitting Disc: Alternate word for rotor.
is being inserted but do catch if the fitting tries to slide DOT fluid: Department Of Transportation stan-
out of the hose. dardized hydraulic fluid. Currently, DOT 3 and DOT 4
Bleed: The process of eliminating unwanted air from are utilized in some bicycle disc brakes. DOT 3 and DOT
a hydraulic system. 4 are generally considered interchangeable, but DOT 5 is
Bleed bolt/screw: A bolt or screw that must be unique. Some hydraulic brakes use mineral oil or some other
removed so that a bleed fitting can be installed into the proprietary fluid. It is absolutely essential to only use the
caliper or lever for the purpose of bleeding the system. fluid specified by the brake manufacturer because other fluid
Bleed fitting: A fitting that is installed into the caliper types will always render the brake inoperable.
or brake lever for the purpose of bleeding the system. The Fixed fitting: A threaded fitting on the end of a
bleed fitting is threaded into the hole from which the bleed hydraulic hose that is permanently attached at the factory.
bolt or bleed screw was removed.
37 – 1
37 – DISC BRAKES
Fixed pad: A brake pad that does not move in end that is in the slave cylinder, or it could be attached to
response to application of the brake. Instead, the moving the ball-ramp mechanism in a mechanical disc brake.
pad deflects the rotor so that the rotor contacts the fixed Reservoir: A cavity in a hydraulic brake lever that
pad. The position of the fixed pad needs to be adjusted contains reserve hydraulic fluid. This extra fluid is drawn
as part of initial setup and as part of maintenance. into the system to compensate for the increased volume
Hayes mount: See post mount. inside the slave cylinder that results from pad wear.
Hose: The plastic tube (or braided-wire-covered Rotor: The flat disc fixed to the hub that provides
plastic tube) that connects a hydraulic brake lever to a the braking surface the pads rub against when the brake
hydraulic caliper. is operated.
I.S. mount: International Standard mount. These Seal: A ring made of rubber-like material that seals
mounts for the caliper are unthreaded eyelets through the gap between a piston and the cylinder wall, the gap
which bolts are inserted before being threaded into the between different parts of the caliper body, or the gap
caliper (or into the adapter bracket). The axis of the holes between a banjo fitting and the banjo-fitting mount or
in the mounts is perpendicular to the plane of the rotor. banjo-bolt head.
The distance between the holes in the mounts, the dis- Slave cylinder: The hydraulic cylinder that is located
tance from the inside faces of the mounts to the rotor, in the caliper.
and the position of the mounts relative to the hub axle
are all parts of the standard. Brakes are made either to fit
I.S. mounts or post mounts. Adapter brackets are used to PREREQUISITES
convert between the two types of mounts. For installation of all types of disc brakes, familiarity with
Master cylinder: The hydraulic cylinder that is installation and alignment of brake levers is required.
located in the brake lever. Also called pump. For installation and for all services for disc brakes,
Membrane: See diaphragm. familiarity with wheel installation is required.
Mineral oil: A mineral-based hydraulic fluid that is For installation and service of mechanical disc brakes,
not DOT fluid. Mineral oil cannot be used in any brake familiarity with brake-cable systems is required.
for which DOT fluid is specified by the manufacturer. When converting a bike to disc brakes, including
Olive: See compression fitting. replacing the hub in an existing wheel, familiarity with
Pad: The parts that press against the rotor to resist wheel building is required.
its rotation. One face of the pad is a composite material, For service of all disc brakes, if loose hub bearings
and the other face is metallic. are causing the rotor to rub the pads or caliper, familiarity
Pad adjuster: A mechanism in a caliper that moves with hub-bearing adjustment is required.
the pad close to or further from the rotor.
Piston: A plate or solid cylinder that fits snugly inside INDICATIONS
a master cylinder or slave cylinder. When the piston in the
master cylinder is pushed further in by the motion of the New-bike assembly
brake lever, hydraulic fluid is displaced through the hose New bikes equipped with disc brakes may require
and into the slave cylinder. The additional fluid in the slave simple adjustments to correct excess or insufficient pad
cylinder pushes the piston in the slave cylinder outward, clearance, poor rotor alignment, sizing of cables or hoses,
which in turn pushes the pad to the rotor. or caliper alignment.
Post mount: A specification for the mounting of Maintenance
a caliper to the frame or fork. The holes in the mounts All disc brakes: Disc brakes need regular inspection
are threaded, and the axis of the holes are parallel to the for worn-out pads. As pads wear, simple adjustments can
plane of the rotor. The distance between the holes in the be made to maintain brake performance, but at some point
mounts, the distance from the centers of the mount holes the abrasive material on the pads will wear completely
to the rotor, and the position of the mounts relative to the away. Without periodic inspection for wear, in all likelihood
hub axle are all parts of the specification. Brakes are made worn-out pads will be discovered as a result of catastrophic
either to fit the I.S. mount or the post mount. Adapter brake failure. The brake rotor will also be destroyed if the
brackets are used to convert between the two types of pads are allowed to completely wear out.
mounts. Also called Hayes mount. Hydraulic disc brakes: Periodic replacement of
Pressure plate: A plate that applies pressure to the hydraulic fluids reduces wear in the master cylinder and
pad so the pad will rub on the rotor. The pressure plate slave cylinder. Most other services after initial setup are
could be the end of the slave piston opposite from the
37 – 2
37 – DISC BRAKES
performed in response to one of the symptoms listed to the hub. If neither solution works, try aligning the rotor
in this section. by bending it. Many rotors can be realigned satisfactorily,
Mechanical disc brakes: The cable system and the but if they are warped from overheating or kinked from
internal mechanisms can become sluggish from loss of impact, replacement may be the only option.
lubrication or internal contamination.
Double-pump needed for firm feel
Excessive lever travel This is usually caused by improper initial setup.
Excess travel of the brake lever before the brake The fixed pad may not be close enough to the rotor,
responds may indicate the pad clearance needs adjustment, the caliper alignment might be bad, or the slave piston
particularly with mechanical disc brakes and single-piston may not have been properly retracted when the hydraulic
hydraulic disc brakes. Since this adjustment is likely to be system was filled.
the result of pad wear, always inspect the pads before
adjusting clearance. In some cases, the pads are adjusted
Lever feels soft after pads contact rotor
This generally indicates air in the hydraulic system
by means of a pad adjuster, and in some cases the cable
(bleed needed), poor alignment of the caliper resulting in
tension needs adjustment (mechanical disc brakes only).
a too-loose pad-clearance adjustment to eliminate pad rub,
Intermittent, light pad rub or a too-loose pad-clearance adjustment to compensate
Rhythmic, intermittent rub that changes with the for a wobbling rotor.
speed of the bike indicates either a wobbling rotor or On a hydraulic system, if the soft feel is not solved by
too little pad clearance. If the brakes can be loosened bleeding, rotor alignment, and caliper alignment, then pis-
to eliminate the rub without reducing stopping power, ton seals in the slave and/or master cylinders are failing.
no further service is needed. If the rub cannot be elimi-
nated without compromising brake performance, the rotor
Lack of modulation on a mechanical
needs to be trued or replaced and/or the caliper needs to disc brake
be reinstalled with better alignment. Lack of lubrication or dirt contamination in the
Intermittent rub that has no pattern may be caused by cable system or inside the caliper can cause loss of
loose hub bearings, a loose rotor, or a loose caliper. ability to modulate the brakes. Service the cable sys-
tem first, then consider overhauling the caliper if the
Constant rub after hard braking symptom remains.
The fluid in hydraulic brakes heats up and expands
with long or hard braking. If the rub condition goes away Hydraulic fluid leaks
once the brakes have had time to cool down, the fluid Some master cylinders will leak if the bike is stored in
expansion is the culprit. With some brake designs, the the wrong position. If the problem occurs only when the
heat-caused expansion is always a problem, but bleed- bike is stored in certain positions, no service is needed, but
ing the brakes may be a solution. Poor caliper alignment the bike should never be stored in the offending position.
contributes to this problem. A leak where a line fitting attaches to a line, the
brake lever, or the caliper may simply indicate the fitting
Metallic scraping sounds needs to be tightened. There may also be O-rings or
These noises can be caused by worn-out pads or by compression fittings in the hose attachments that need
rub between the rotor and the caliper body. Inspect for to be replaced.
pad wear, rotor wobble, loose hub bearings, loose caliper- Leaks from where a hose attaches to a fixed fitting,
mounting bolts, and misalignment of the caliper. or leaks anywhere in a hose not at a fitting, indicate the
Rubbing immediately after wheel hose has failed and must be replaced.
Leaks anywhere in the caliper other than at fittings
installation indicate the caliper needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
The slightest change in wheel position can introduce
a rub when everything is correctly adjusted. Before per-
forming any services, check whether moving the wheel TOOL CHOICES
slightly eliminates the problem. Table 37-1 (page 37-4) lists the disc-brake-specific
Wobbling rotor tools that are needed for all types of disc brakes. All the
Rotors may wobble due to poor fabrication, poor tools are necessary, unless they are specific to a model you
installation, impact during transport or a crash, or from will not be servicing. Additional bicycle-specific tools and
overheating. Wobble may also be the result of loose hub common mechanic’s tools are needed but are not included
bearings. Check hub bearings first, then reinstall the rotor
37 – 3
37 – DISC BRAKES
in this table. Bleed-tool kits are specific to models and are more than what is required, additional flat washers can be
listed at the beginning of each bleeding procedure. added between the alignment washers and the mounting
DISC-BRAKE TOOLS (table 37-1) surface to move the caliper out a little further.
Tool Fits and considerations Hose routing
Morningstar Dial gauge for rotor align- If a bicycle is originally equipped with disc brakes,
Roc-Tech ment; DPD-20 works in there are already fittings for the hoses. If there are no
DPD-20 or DP-TS-2 bike, DP-TS-2 works in fittings specific to disc-brake hoses, a variety of manufac-
Park TS-2 truing stand turers make adapters for attaching hoses directly to the
Magura Facing tool improves align- frame or to the cable fittings on the frame.
Disc Optimizer ments of caliper installed
on I.S. mounts Lever interference with derailleur control
With no predictability, certain combinations of brake
Jag Mounting Shims .2mm shims for aligning
DCA025 caliper on I.S. mounts levers and derailleur controls will interfere with each other
without removing bolts when both are positioned correctly. If unable to change
Jag Line Cutter Cuts hoses to size (except the brake lever or derailleur control to eliminate the prob-
WST010 stainless steel) lem, always compromise the derailleur-control position,
Jag Needle Driver Installs barbed fitting into
not the brake-lever position.
WST012 hydraulic hose Mount compatibility
There is a seemingly endless variety of adapter brackets
COMPLICATIONS made for every combination of caliper model with front
or rear mounts, I.S. mounts or post mounts, and with mul-
Low braking power with new pads tiple rotor sizes. Determining the correct adapter can be
All manufacturers state that new pads need to “burn daunting, and there is not necessarily an adapter made for
in” before full braking power is realized. Recommenda- every possible combination. The brake manufacturers are
tions vary from 30–100 hard stops before the system will the most reliable source of information on which adapter
function optimally. works for each situation for each of their models.
Poor alignment of mounts Rotor compatibility
Although calipers have varying amounts of align- The number of mounting holes, the size of the
ment adjustment, the directions and ranges of adjustment mounting holes, the diameter of the circle that goes
needed to compensate for poorly aligned mounts on the through the centers of the mounting holes, and the dis-
frame or fork may not be sufficient to make the brake tance from the rotor-mounting surface to the inside face
perform correctly. If the frame or fork has I.S. mounts, of the dropout are all standardized. However, rotors may
or the caliper is mounted to a bracket that converts I.S. vary in outside diameter, thickness, and the height of the
mounts to post mounts, there is a milling tool made for braking surface. It may be possible to compensate for
improving the alignment. If the caliper attaches directly differences in diameter by changing brackets or by using
to post mounts (no adapter bracket), there is no tool for spacers between the caliper and the mount. The substitute
improving the alignment. rotor may be thinner than the original rotor but never
Whichever the mount type, there is an alternate way to thicker. The height of the surface the pads contact may
optimize alignment for calipers that attach directly to post be more than the original rotor but may never be less than
mounts or attach by means of a bracket that converts I.S. it is on the original rotor.
mounts to post mounts. The concave/convex washer sets
that are used to align threaded-stud brake pads on linear-pull
brakes can be used between the caliper and the mounts to ABOUT THE REST
allow angular adjustment of the caliper. Longer mounting OF THIS SECTION
bolts are required and a larger rotor is required. Using these The next section of this chapter, GENERAL SERVICES,
washers moves the caliper out approximately 5mm, so the applies to all disc brakes, regardless of brake type or brand.
bolts need to be longer by that amount, and the diameter This section includes subsections for WHEEL-BUILDING
difference of the rotor needs to be double the change in GUIDELINES, ROTOR INSTALLATION, WHEEL INSTALLA-
caliper position. There is not always a rotor available that will TION, MILLING I.S. MOUNTS, and ROTOR ALIGNMENT.
have the correct diameter and thickness to work with this Following GENERAL SERVICES are sections specific to
modification. If the next-size rotor is only a few millimeters the service of different brands and models of brakes. Use
37 – 4
37 – DISC BRAKES
the contents of this chapter to locate the correct section Repeated installation and removal of the rotor is likely to
for the brake being serviced. necessitate replacement of the tightening plates.
3. [ ] Shimano only: Place one tightening plate
(thin plate shaped somewhat like a chain
side-plate) over each pair of holes with flat
GENERAL SERVICES side of each plate against rotor.
4. [ ] Thread in all six rotor bolts until heads just
contact rotor.
WHEEL-BUILDING GUIDELINES 5. [ ] Use marker to mark bolts clockwise 1–6.
6. [ ] Tighten bolts in 1, 3, 5, 2, 4, 6 sequence
The recommended cross patterns are limited to 3X
to recommended torque (see table 37-2).
(32-spoke wheels) and 3X or 4X (36-spoke wheels). Low-
For unlisted brands with no manufacturer’s
spoke-count wheels such as Shimano XT and XTR wheels instructions available, use “Others” row.
that are designed for disc brakes may have fewer crosses, but
this should not be considered evidence that conventional ROTOR-BOLT TORQUES (table 37-2)
wheels with 32 or 36 spokes don’t really need to be built Manufacturer Torque recommendation
with at least a 3X pattern. Deceleration from braking occurs Avid 55in-lbs
more rapidly than acceleration, so the torsional loads from Formula 52in-lbs
deceleration are much higher than those generated during Grimeca 44–62in-lbs
acceleration. The recommended cross patterns are required Hayes 55in-lbs
to transfer the higher torsional loads that disc brakes can
Hope 36in-lbs
generate during rapid deceleration.
Due to the high loads encountered during braking, Shimano 18–35in-lbs
spokes should have a minimum 2.0mm diameter at the SRAM 44–62in-lbs
ends. Butted spokes are acceptable as long as the end Others 55in-lbs
diameters are at least 2.0mm. 7. [ ] Shimano only: Pry under raised edge of each
Some brake manufacturers require that the left-side tightening plate to fold plate up against one
head-out spokes radiate clockwise from the hub and that flat of each triangular bolt head.
the right-side head-in spokes radiate counterclockwise 8. [ ] Inspect closely for Loctite on rotor and clean
from the hub. These are the same directions that result thoroughly.
from following the wheel-lacing instructions in this man- 9. [ ] Clean entire rotor thoroughly with alcohol
ual. The vernacular terms for these patterns are that the or other zero-residue solvent. NOTE: Avoid
touching rotor after cleaning—clean immedi-
“pulling” spokes are “head out” and the “pushing” spokes
ately if rotor is touched again at any time!
are “head in.” An alternate term to “pulling” is “trailing”
and an alternate term to “pushing” is “leading.”
WHEEL INSTALLATION
ROTOR INSTALLATION The additional loads on the wheel that are associated
with powerful disc brakes make wheel security an even
1. [ ] Place rotor on hub with rotation arrow fac-
ing out from hub. If rotor has no rotation greater concern than it is normally. Standard quick-release
arrow, convention is that arms spiral out- mechanisms (5mm shaft diameter) must be steel. Proper
ward in counterclockwise direction. NOTE: adjustment and closure of the quick release is absolutely
Spiral arms on some brands extend out with critical (see INSTALLING THE WHEEL page 18-14). To keep
a clockwise rotation when directional arrow the rider’s hands away from hot rotors and sharp-edged
is correctly oriented. rotors, the quick release is installed opposite of normal,
2. [ ] If rotor-mounting bolts are being reused, lightly with the lever on the non-rotor side of the wheel.
treat threads with Loctite 242 or 290 (not 1. [ ] Quick-release wheels only: Install quick-
needed for first-time installation unless bolt release mechanism opposite of normal so
threads are uncoated from manufacturer). lever is on non-rotor side of hub.
Steps #3 and #7 apply to Shimano rotors only. The 2. [ ] Caliper not installed or not secure: Install
tightening plates installed in step #3 are bent so that they wheel to be centered in fork or between
rear frame stays (or suspension links), then
work as a lock to prevent accidental loosening of the rotor
secure wheel.
bolts (see figure 37.4, page 37-45). If removing a rotor, it is
necessary to flatten the plate again before loosening a bolt.
37 – 5
37 – DISC BRAKES
3. [ ] Caliper already installed and secure: Install 1. [ ] Install dummy axle into round hole in bench
wheel so rotor fits in between pads, then with flat on dummy aligned to bench-fixing
secure wheel. Spin wheel and check for knob (100mm dummy is for fork dropouts,
rotor rubbing pads. If rub exists, reposition and 135mm dummy is for rear dropouts).
wheel to minimize rub. 2. [ ] Adjust end of dummy axle that is on same
side of bench as mill to protrude 45–55mm
from face of bench, then secure bench-fixing
MILLING I.S. MOUNTS knob tightly so bench cannot slip.
3. [ ] Loosen set screw in side of mill stop so mill
Tool-part terminology shaft is free to move through mill guide.
The Magura Disc Optimizer is a milling tool that is 4. [ ] Install dummy axle fully into dropouts, then
used to improve the alignment of the caliper to the rotor. adjust quick-release so dummy axle is retained
It can be used on I.S. mounts or on an adapter bracket but is just free enough to rotate in response to
that converts post mounts to be I.S. mounts. It cannot be firm finger pressure on end of bench.
used in situations where the caliper mounts directly to post 5. [ ] Rotate bench so mill lines up with hole in
mounts without an adapter bracket. The tool consists of either I.S. mount, then slide pilot shaft on
several parts. Be familiar with the following terms before end of mill into hole.
trying to use the Disc Optimizer. 6. [ ] Apply cutting oil to mill and inside face of
Bench: A square block of metal that has a round I.S. mount. NOTE: Cutting oil should be
applied frequently during milling process.
hole through which the dummy axle installs and a long
7. [ ] While pressing in gently on mill knob, turn
slot in which the mill guide slides toward and away from mill knob clockwise to begin milling face of
the dummy axle. mount. Every 2–3 full rotations, pull back on
Bench-fixing knob: The knob that threads into the mill knob and inspect cutting progress. Stop
bench. The knob is tightened to fix the location of the milling when fresh-milled surface makes a
bench on the dummy axle. complete 360º circle around mount hole.
Dummy axle: Installs in the dropouts with a standard 8. [ ] With mill in contact with face of mount,
quick-release mechanism in place of the hub. A long flat slide mill stop firmly against face of bench
is milled into the dummy axle over its full length. The and secure set screw.
tool includes two dummy axles. The shorter one is used 9. [ ] Pull mill knob so mill pilot is clear of mount,
then rotate bench and slide mill guide on
in 100mm-wide front dropouts, and the longer one is used
bench so mill aligns with other mount.
in 135mm-wide rear dropouts. 10. [ ] While pressing in gently on mill knob, turn
Mill: The cutting tool on one end of the mill shaft. mill knob clockwise to begin milling face of
Mill guide: The assembly installed in the slot in the mount. Continue until no new material is
bench that allows the mill assembly to move back and being milled.
forth between the two mounts and through which the 11. [ ] If fresh-milled surface makes a complete
mill shaft is inserted. 360º circle around 2nd mount hole: Proce-
Mill knob: The plastic knob that is used to turn the dure is complete. Remove tool.
mill shaft and the mill. If milling is not complete at end of step 10:
Mill pilot: A round stud on the end of the mill that Loosen mill stop and continue milling until mill-
ing is complete on second mount. Continue by
inserts into the hole in the I.S. mount.
performing step 8 again (on 2nd mount), then
Mill shaft: A long, round shaft that has a mill on one repeat steps 9 and 10 on 1st mount.
end and a knob on the other end. The shaft may have two
parts if the 50mm extension is installed.
Mill stop: A hex-shaped piece of metal on the mill ROTOR ALIGNMENT
shaft that is adjusted to set the distance the mill can travel. The following procedure utilizes the Morningstar
A set screw in one of the sides of the mill stop is tight- Roc-Tech rotor-alignment gauge. The tool is made in
ened against the flat on the mill shaft to fix the position several versions, which differ only in the way that the
of the mill stop. tool is mounted.
The tool consists of three basic parts: the mounting
Milling procedure system, the gauge-alignment system, and the dial gauge.
The following procedure presumes you are familiar
There are mounts made for using the tool in a Park
with the tool-part terms listed directly above in the Tool-
TS-2 truing stand, a Park TS-3 truing stand, and directly
part terminology section.
to the axle (in place of the QR skewer). The version that
37 – 6
37 – DISC BRAKES
replaces the axle can be used with the wheel in the bike 13. [ ] If needle is ≤2 marks to right of 0: No wob-
or with the wheel in a truing stand. bles to right need correction, go to step 17.
The dial gauge consists of a two-needle dial, a rotating If needle is >2 marks to right of 0: Use
face (for setting the tool to “zero”), and a contact plunger marker to mark edge of rotor at center
point of foot.
with a plastic foot that rubs on the rotor.
14. [ ] Rotate mark about 1/4 turn away from foot,
The gauge-alignment system consists of two smooth
then flex rotor to left a few millimeters.
shafts and a clamp. One of the smooth shafts is per- 15. Return mark to center of foot, then check
manently fixed to the mount (the mount shaft), and the which condition applies to needle location.
other smooth shaft is permanently fixed to the gauge (the A. [ ] >2 marks to right of 0
gauge shaft). B. [ ] Between ≤2 marks to left of 0 and ≤2
The clamp slides on both shafts at once when the marks to right of 0
clamp knob is loosened. Sliding the clamp along the mount C. [ ] Left of 0 >2 marks
shaft moves the gauge to the right distance out from the 16. [ ] 15A is checked: Repeat step 14–15 (increas-
axle so the gauge foot will align with the braking surface ing amount rotor is flexed to left by very small
amount) until needle is ≤2 marks to right of
on the rotor. Sliding the clamp along the gauge shaft moves
0. Erase mark, then restart at step 12.
the foot in and out relative to the rotor face.
15B is checked: Repeat step 12. Then if
1. [ ] Depending on tool model, secure mount to
needle is >2 marks to right of 0, repeat
the truing stand or through hub axle.
steps 13–15. Continue this cycle until
2. [ ] Loosen clamp knob, then slide dial gauge
needle never swings >2 marks to right of 0.
along mount shaft until center of contact
NOTE: Erase mark each time a correction is
plunger is approximately even with center of
made to point needle is ≤2 marks right of 0.
braking surface on rotor.
15C is checked: Start again at step 14, but
3. [ ] Slide gauge shaft in or out of clamp until
move rotor to right less than amount it was
small needle on dial points between -1 and
initially moved to left.
-2 and large needle points to 6:00 position.
17. [ ] Rotate wheel slowly two revolutions while
4. [ ] Secure clamp knob just tight enough so
only watching needle swings to left of 0,
shafts cannot slide, but shafts can still twist
then put wheel at point that creates largest
inside clamp.
swing to left.
5. [ ] Rotate foot on contact plunger so neither
18. [ ] If needle is ≤2 marks to left of 0: No wob-
heel or toe of foot extends beyond braking
bles to left need correction, go to step 22.
surface of rotor.
If needle is >2 marks to left of 0: Use
6. [ ] Rotate clamp around mount shaft so heel
marker to mark edge of rotor at center
and toe both contact rotor surface.
point of foot.
7. [ ] If necessary, rotate dial shaft in clamp to
19. [ ] Rotate mark about 1/4 turn away from foot,
fine tune height of foot.
then flex rotor to right a few millimeters.
8. [ ] Secure clamp knob.
20. Return mark to center of foot, then check
9. [ ] Check whether full length of foot is contact-
which condition applies to needle location.
ing braking surface, small needle on dial is
A. [ ] >2 marks to left of 0
between -1 and -2, and large needle points
B. [ ] Between ≤2 marks to left of 0 and ≤2
to somewhere between 5:00 and 7:00 posi-
marks to right of 0
tions. NOTE: Repeat steps 1–8 if these con-
C. [ ] Right of 0
ditions are not met.
21. [ ] 20A is checked: Repeat step 19–20 (increas-
10. [ ] Rotate wheel slowly (approximately 5 sec-
ing amount rotor is flexed to right by very
onds per revolution) while watching large
small amount) until needle is ≤2 marks to left
needle on dial for periodic jumps and steady
of 0. Erase mark, then restart at step 17.
periods, then stop wheel rotation at point
20B is checked: Repeat step 17. Then if
needle is steady. NOTE: If there are no
needle is >2 marks to left of 0, repeat steps
steady periods, stop wheel when needle is
18–20. Continue this cycle until needle
at middle of its range of motion.
never swings >2 marks to left of 0. NOTE:
11. [ ] Rotate dial-gauge face so “0” is at needle.
Erase mark each time a correction is made
12. [ ] Rotate wheel slowly two revolutions while
to point needle is ≤2 marks left of 0.
only watching needle swings to right of 0,
20C is checked: Start again at step 19, but
then put wheel at point that creates largest
move rotor to left less than amount it was
swing to right.
initially moved to right.
37 – 7
37 – DISC BRAKES
22. [ ] Remove Roc-Tech tool, then clean rotor 3. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Loosen caliper bolts and
thoroughly with zero-residue solvent (such treat with Loctite 242.
as alcohol). Post mounts only: Treat caliper bolts with
Loctite 242.
4. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Thread caliper bolts in
fully, but do not tighten. NOTE: Caliper
AVID MECHANICAL DISC should still move side to side on bracket,
but there should be as little as possible slop
Requirements between caliper and bracket.
The caliper attaches directly to post mounts or to I.S. 5. [ ] Turn both red pad adjusters fully counter-
mounts by means of a variety of adapters. This cable- clockwise.
operated disc brake requires a low-leverage brake lever of 6. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Place caliper over rotor
with mounting bracket behind mount eyes
the type used with linear-pull rim brakes. Caliper overhaul
on frame/fork.
requires the Avid lockring tool #MDT-1.
Post mounts only: Place caliper over rotor
Terminology and align caliper bolts with holes in post
Bracket bolt: Retains adapter bracket to I.S. mounts, then thread caliper bolts into
mounts. post mounts (do not tighten). NOTE: Cali-
per should still move side to side on post
Caliper bolt: Retains caliper directly to post mount
mounts, but there should be as little as pos-
or to adapter bracket that attaches to I.S. mounts. sible slop between caliper and posts.
Caliper-mounting tab: A part of the caliper body 7. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Install bracket bolts with
that protrudes from the caliper and through which the washers, cock caliper in direction of wheel
caliper bolts are inserted to attach the caliper to the adapter rotation, then torque bolts to 80in-lbs.
brackets or to the post mounts. 8. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully clockwise, then
Cam: Internal assembly that includes the ball ramps. 10 clicks counterclockwise.
CPS washers: A concave-faced and convex-faced pair 9. [ ] Turn outer-pad adjuster fully clockwise (rotor
of washers that are assembled with curved faces toward should be fully immobilized).
each other. CPS washers are located between the caliper 10. [ ] Secure caliper bolts to 80in-lbs.
11. [ ] Attach brake cable to brake lever, then
and the adapter bracket (or post mounts) and between the
thread adjusting barrel fully in.
caliper and the caliper-bolt heads. When correctly installed, 12. [ ] Oil pinch-mechanism threads.
the caliper-mounting tabs should be sandwiched between 13. [ ] Install wire through housing stop on caliper
the convex washers, with the concave washers separated and through pinch mechanism.
by the mounting tab and two convex washers. 14. [ ] Use 4th-hand tool to pull slack from wire
Pad adjuster: Red-plastic knobs on each face of (arm should not rotate), then secure pinch
the caliper. mechanism to 80in-lbs.
15. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever with normal
braking force to test cable seating and secu-
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND rity. Check if lever has free play and repeat
ADJUSTMENT slack-removal step if it does. NOTE: Use
brake-lever adjusting barrel to remove small
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION amount of free play, but do not adjust to
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see point caliper arm moves!
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel 16. [ ] Turn pad adjusters fully counterclockwise.
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure 17. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster 4 clicks clockwise.
(page 37-5). (b) Operate brake.
2. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Remove bracket bolts from (c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
bracket (if installed), then treat threads with (d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created,
Loctite 242. then turn adjuster 2 clicks counterclockwise
Post mounts only: Install to one caliper bolt to eliminate rub (repeat if necessary).
in order: flat washer, CPS washers (concave- 18. [ ] (a) Turn outer-pad adjuster 4 clicks clockwise.
washer first), caliper-mounting tab (so rotor (b) Operate brake.
slot faces out), CPS washers (convex-washer (c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
first). Assemble other bolt and CPS washer (d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created,
set into other caliper-mounting tab to match then turn adjuster 2 clicks counterclockwise
first bolt and CPS-washer set. to eliminate rub (repeat if necessary).
37 – 8
37 – DISC BRAKES
19. [ ] Squeeze brake lever until pads just contact 4. [ ] Clean measuring-caliper jaws of any oil or
rotor, then measure lever-to-grip clearance. grease with zero-residue solvent (such as
If necessary, loosen outer-pad adjuster 2 alcohol), then measure pad thickness (includ-
clicks at a time until desired lever travel is ing backing plate). NOTE: If pad appears to be
achieved (minimum clearance of 25mm). worn irregularly, measure at thinnest point.
20. [ ] Adjust brake-return force up or down as AVID PAD WEAR (table 37-3)
desired with spring-tension adjuster (located
near base of caliper arm). Overall thickness Remaining life
21. [ ] Trim inner wire to length that cannot reach 4.00mm 100%
to nearest point on rotor slot, then solder 3.75mm 75%
and cap wire.
3.50mm 50%
3.25mm 25%
CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT ONLY 3.00mm Replace immediately
When the pads become thinner from wear, the lever 5. [ ] Assemble pads to 4-prong spring with braking
travel will get excessive. With other cable-operated brakes, surfaces facing each other, with spring prongs
it is normal to tighten the cable. NOTE: Never tighten the adjacent to braking material and contacting
cable on Avid mechanical brakes to correct for excess lever backing plate, and with spring eyes at ends of
travel! Instead, the pad adjusters are adjusted again, much assembly near pad tabs.
like the original setup. 6. [ ] Insert pad/spring assembly into rotor slot so
1. [ ] Turn pad adjusters fully counterclockwise. pad tabs and spring eyes are at end of slot
2. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster 4 clicks clockwise. closest to housing stop.
(b) Operate brake.
(c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
(d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created, CALIPER OVERHAUL
then turn adjuster 2 clicks counterclockwise If the brake feels sluggish or stiff to operate or the
to eliminate rub (repeat if necessary). pads fail to release from the rotor when the brake lever is
3. [ ] (a) Turn outer-pad adjuster 4 clicks clockwise. released, the cable or the caliper may need service. Cable
(b) Operate brake. service is the same as all cable-operated brakes. Always
(c) Spin wheel and check for rub. check the cable condition before servicing the caliper. The
(d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created,
caliper has delicate internals that can become congested
then turn adjuster 2 clicks counterclockwise
to eliminate rub (repeat if necessary).
with dirt or become sluggish from loss of lubrication. The
4. [ ] Squeeze brake lever until pads just contact caliper can be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated with
rotor, then measure lever-to-grip-clearance. the following procedure.
If necessary, loosen outer-pad adjuster 2 The following procedure applies to the second-
clicks at a time until desired lever travel is generation version of the brake, characterized by a spring-
achieved (minimum clearance of 25mm). tension adjuster at the base of the caliper arm (adjuster
moves with caliper arm). First-generation calipers have
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY the spring-tension adjuster in the caliper body (adjuster
remains stationary while caliper arm moves). First-genera-
Pads should be replaced when combined thickness of
tion calipers are serviced with the same general approach
backing plate and braking material is 3.1mm or less.
as the following procedure for second-generation calipers,
1. [ ] Remove wheel.
2. [ ] Loosen both pad adjusters fully.
but pad installation and removal differs slightly and the
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be spring-tension adjuster (parts located behind the caliper
touched with fingers or contaminated with arm) is slightly different. With proper care given to keep-
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- ing track of sequences and orientation of spring-tension-
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and adjuster parts, it should be possible to use this procedure
reinstalled without being contaminated. for first-generation calipers.
3. [ ] Find tab on edge of pads. One at a time,
deflect tab toward center of rotor slot, then Disassembly
pull firmly on tab to pull pad out. When both NOTE: This procedure must be started with cali-
pads are removed, carefully extract 4-prong per mounted securely on bike and pads still
spring from rotor slot. installed in caliper.
1. [ ] Detach cable from caliper arm.
2. [ ] Remove wheel (if still installed).
37 – 9
37 – DISC BRAKES
3. [ ] Rotate outer-pad adjuster fully counter-
clockwise.
Assembly
In several of the following assembly steps, caliper
4. [ ] Insert pad-spacer tool (red-plastic tool sup-
plied with brake) between pads, then rotate
parts are greased. Avid has guidelines for the type and
inner-pad adjuster fully clockwise. amount of grease that apply to all the steps that mention
5. [ ] Pull off outer-pad-adjuster knob (smaller red grease. The grease must be resistant to high temperatures.
knob). If knob is difficult to remove, wedge Bicycle-specific greases approved by Avid for use in the
cutting edges of diagonal side cutter under caliper are Finish Line and Pedro’s synthetic greases.
knob, then use cutter to lever off knob. NOTE: Grease should always be applied sparingly to
6. [ ] Use 2.5mm hex key to set spring-tension avoid any run out at high temperatures! Automotive and
adjuster to 12 full turns out from fully in. marine greases that have sufficient resistance to high tem-
7. [ ] While pushing in firmly on caliper arm peratures and are specified as highly water resistant include
to retain spring-loaded parts, use 11mm Lubriplate 1552, Penzoil 707L, Sta-Lube Multi-purpose
wrench to unthread caliper-arm locknut.
Marine Grease, and Valvoline Durablend.
8. [ ] If parts have not fallen off, remove following
23. [ ] Treat inner pressure-plate threads with
parts in order: detent washer, round washer,
grease, then drop plate (shaft-end first) into
caliper arm, spring-adjuster plate, rub-
hole in outer face of caliper body.
ber seal, coil spring, hex-hole washer, and
24. [ ] Insert finger through same hole to press plate
lockring retainer. NOTE: It will be necessary
toward hole in inner face of caliper, rotate
to tap on back face of caliper to get lockring
plate shaft counterclockwise to engage
retainer to fall out.
threads, then thread plate fully into hole.
9. [ ] Break loose lockring with Avid lockring tool
25. [ ] Align rectangular hole in inner pad-adjuster
(#MDT-1), but do not remove lockring.
knob (larger red knob) with flats on inner
10. [ ] Remove caliper from bike (at bracket bolts
pressure-plate shaft, then snap knob into
or caliper bolts) and perform next steps in a
place.
good location to keep track of small parts.
26. [ ] Assemble pads to 4-prong spring with brak-
11. [ ] Use Avid lockring tool to remove lockring.
ing surfaces facing each other, spring prongs
12. [ ] With caliper outer face pointing up, pull on
adjacent to braking material and contacting
pad-adjuster shaft to remove cam assembly.
backing plate, and spring eyes at ends of
13. [ ] Watching for loose ball bearings between
assembly near pad tabs.
them, separate inner and outer cams.
27. [ ] Insert pad/spring assembly into rotor slot so
14. [ ] Pull outer pressure plate from inner (floating)
pad tabs and spring eyes are at end of slot
cam (retained by strong spring clip).
closest to housing stop.
15. [ ] Unthread adjuster shaft from inner cam.
28. [ ] Turn inner pad-adjuster knob fully clockwise.
16. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully counterclock-
29. [ ] Grease threads of outer pad-adjuster shaft,
wise in caliper body.
then fully thread adjuster into inner face of
17. [ ] Find tabs on edges of pads. One at a time,
inner (floating) cam.
deflect tab toward center of rotor slot, then
30. [ ] Engage stud of outer pressure plate into hole
pull firmly on tab to pull pad out. When both
in inner face of inner (floating) cam.
pads are removed, carefully extract 4-prong
31. [ ] Grease ramps in faces of inner and outer
spring from rotor slot.
cams and grease shaft of inner cam.
18. [ ] Pull off inner-pad-adjuster knob (large red
32. [ ] Place 5/16" (4mm) bearing into each ramp
knob).
in inner cam.
19. [ ] Turn inner-adjuster shaft clockwise until
33. [ ] Place outer cam on top of bearings, then
inner pressure plate is disengaged from cali-
rotate outer cam until cams seat together
per body, then drop pressure plate out hole
fully.
in outer face of caliper.
34. [ ] With outer face of caliper facing up, drop
Cleaning and inspection cam assembly into hole in outer face of
20. [ ] Except for brake pads and rubber seals, caliper body. NOTE: Align tab on outer cam
clean all parts thoroughly in solvent. with slot in hole.
21. [ ] Inspect ball ramps in cams for galling and 35. [ ] Grease lockring thread, place lockring into
inspect seals for tears, cracks, and nicks. caliper-body hole (flatter-face first), then care-
22. [ ] Being careful not to contaminate pad sur- fully use lockring tool to thread in lockring
faces, measure brake-pad thickness (including (use care to avoid cross-threading lockring).
backing plate). See table 37-3 (page 37-9) for 36. [ ] Treat caliper-mounting bolts with Loctite 242.
wear-life guidelines.
37 – 10
37 – DISC BRAKES
37. [ ] Attach caliper to frame or fork and gently
secure bolts (alignment is not final).
BRAKE INSTALLATION
38. [ ] Secure lockring to 140–150in-lbs. The following procedure assumes a new brake in out-
39. [ ] Place lockring retainer in body (cupped-face of-the-box condition is being installed. This is a closed
first) so notch in inner perimeter engages tab system that is already full of brake fluid.
on outer cam and so protrusions on outer 1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
perimeter engage notches in lockring. procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
40. [ ] Place hex-hole washer on shaft to engage ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
hex flats on shaft. in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
41. [ ] Place rubber seal (cupped-face first) over (page 37-5).
short-leg end of spring, then engage leg into 2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
hole in seal. handlebar.
42. [ ] Engage short leg of spring to spring hole 3. [ ] Install Formula brake lever to bar in final posi-
in spring-adjuster plate (bolt head should tion, then use T25 Torx bit to secure lever-
be counterclockwise of tab into which it is clamp bolts to 22in-lbs, maintaining equal
installed if plate is facing correct direction). gaps between clamp halves at both bolts.
43. [ ] Orient spring-adjusting assembly so spring 4. [ ] If mounting bolts are not new, with factory-
leg aligns with hole in outer cam, then install applied thread-locking compound intact, treat
assembly into cavity in caliper. mounting-bolt threads with Loctite 242.
44. [ ] Treat inner-cam-shaft threads with one drop NOTE: If installing post-mount version of either
of Loctite 290 (or equivalent). model, go to step 10.
45. [ ] Orient caliper arm so stop tab on back face of 5. [ ] Remove red-plastic pad spacer from
arm is just clockwise of bolt in spring-adjuster between pads, then place caliper over
assembly, press caliper arm in firmly, then rotor so threaded mounting holes are
rotate caliper arm less than 60º counterclock- located behind I.S. mounts. NOTE: Do not
wise so hex hole in caliper arm lines up with operate brake lever at any time while neither
hex flats on shaft and caliper arm seats fully pad spacer nor rotor are between pads!
(maintain pressure on face of caliper arm). 6. [ ] 4Racing only: Install bracket bolts through
46. [ ] Place round washer and then detent washer I.S. mounts and into threaded holes, then
over shaft, then engage 11mm nut. gently secure bolts.
47. [ ] Torque 11mm nut to 55–60in-lbs. B4 only: Install long caliper bolt through
48. [ ] Seat edge of rubber seal into seat in face of I.S. mount closer to hose end of caliper and
caliper arm. short caliper bolt through other I.S. mount,
49. [ ] Line up rectangular hole in outer-pad- then gently secure bolts.
adjuster knob with flats on shaft, then push 7. [ ] Operate brake lever several times, then turn
knob firmly on until it snaps into place. wheel and inspect for rub between inner pad
50. [ ] Loosen both pad adjusters fully, then and rotor.
remove pad-spacer tool. NOTE: Shims used in step 8 not supplied with brake.
51. [ ] Turn spring-adjuster bolt fully in. 8. [ ] If pad is rubbing rotor: Loosen bracket
52. [ ] Loosen caliper-mounting bolts. bolts and insert .2mm disc-brake shim
53. [ ] Install wheel to final position, then perform between each I.S. mount and bracket.
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT proce- Gently secure bolts, check for rub again,
dure (page 37-8). and repeat as necessary.
9. [ ] If pad is not rubbing rotor: Loosen bracket
bolts, cock caliper firmly in direction of wheel
rotation, then tighten bracket bolts to 80in-lbs.
FORMULA DISC BRAKES: 10. [ ] Post mounts only: Place mounting tabs over
post-mount holes, then install mounting bolts
4RACING & B4 SERIES (with washers) through mounting tabs and
into post mounts.
This section covers the Formula 4Racing and B4 mod- 11. [ ] Post mounts only: Tighten mounting bolts until
els. This section does not cover any Formula mechanical just bottomed, then back off 1/4 turn. NOTE:
disc brakes, the Open System model, or the Evoluzione Caliper should be able to slide laterally under
9.5 model. bolt heads.
12. [ ] Post mounts only: Operate brake lever several
times, then squeeze and hold brake lever while
securing bolts to 80in-lbs each.
37 – 11
37 – DISC BRAKES
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT HYDRAULIC SERVICES

Formula brake levers can be adjusted for reach. The Formula hydraulic disc brakes use DOT 3/DOT4
reach adjustment has no effect on the brake adjustment, fluid. NOTE: DOT 3/DOT4 fluid is caustic to skin and
other than the fact that reducing the reach reduces the eyes! Wear safety glasses and protective gloves at all times
available lever travel. A knurled plastic cap at the base of during these procedures! DOT 3/DOT4 will dissolve
the brake lever must be pried out to access the 3mm hex- paint; position all equipment to minimize exposure or
socket fitting that is turned to adjust the reach. cover surfaces that may be exposed. Use of mineral oil in
these brakes will render them inoperable. DOT 5.1 fluid
is compatible with the materials in the brake but cannot
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY be mixed with DOT 3/DOT4 fluid. Changing fluid types
Pads should be replaced when combined thickness of is only recommended if overhauling both cylinders and
backing plate and braking material is 3.1mm or less. replacing the hose.
Hydraulic service (bleeding or filling the system) needs
2. [ ] Remove e-clip from pad-retaining bolt (inside
to be done for maintenance, hose replacement, or after
face of caliper, opposite end from hose
attachment), then remove pad-retaining bolt. caliper overhaul. Formula recommends fluid replacement
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be every two years. Hoses are replaced if they are leaking,
touched with fingers or contaminated with being upgraded, or the length needs to be changed.
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- Although Formula literature indicates hoses can be
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and shortened, the banjo fittings on the samples obtained for
reinstalled without being contaminated. writing these procedures were crimped on permanently.
3. [ ] One at a time, withdraw pads (start at end For any of the following procedures, a Formula bleed kit
where pad-retaining bolt was removed, (#FD50902-00) is required. The bleed kit contains fittings
using seal pick or small screwdriver).
for all models of Formula brakes, only some of which fit
When both pads are removed, carefully
4Racing and B4 models. Use the smaller-thread hex fitting
extract 4-prong spring from rotor slot.
4. [ ] Clean measuring-caliper jaws of any oil or attached to the syringe for bleeding at the brake-lever and
grease with zero-residue solvent (such as caliper banjo fittings. Use the smooth, cylindrical fitting
alcohol), then measure pad thickness (includ- for the waste line and fill line attached to the caliper when
ing backing plate). NOTE: If pad appears to be flushing and filling the system. Use the smooth, cylindrical
worn irregularly, measure at thinnest point. fitting attached to the syringe for filling the reservoir after
FORMULA PAD-WEAR (table 37-4) flushing the system.
Overall thickness Remaining life Hose replacement
4.00mm 100% NOTE: Remove brake pads and fill cavity with feeler
gauges or shims so pistons cannot push out.
3.75mm 75%
1. [ ] Position bike so brake lever is in same orien-
3.50mm 50% tation as though bike were on flat ground.
3.25mm 25% 2. [ ] Remove banjo bolt from banjo fitting in
3.00mm Replace immediately brake lever, then separate fitting from lever
(watch for O-rings on faces of banjo fitting).
5. [ ] Assemble pads to 4-prong spring with brak-
NOTE: Secure free end of old hose so it is
ing surfaces facing each other and spring
higher than rest of hose and caliper.
prongs adjacent to braking material and con-
3. [ ] Attach new hose to brake lever, with O-rings
tacting backing plate.
positioned between fitting and lever and
6. [ ] If installing new pads, use box end of 8mm
between banjo bolt and banjo fitting. Secure
combination wrench to seat pistons fully
banjo bolt so hose angle is at desired posi-
into cylinders.
tion, then torque banjo bolt to 70in-lbs.
7. [ ] Insert pad/spring assembly first into end of
4. [ ] Secure loose end of new hose so it is higher
rotor slot opposite from pad-retaining-bolt
than brake lever.
hole, then seat end of assembly that pad-
5. [ ] Remove bleed screw from center of banjo-
retaining bolt goes through.
bolt head, watching for O-ring under bleed
8. [ ] Treat pad-retaining-bolt threads with Loctite
screw (remove O-ring).
290, then install bolt and torque to 50in-lbs.
9. [ ] Install e-clip to end of pad-retaining bolt.
37 – 12
37 – DISC BRAKES
6. [ ] Assemble smaller-thread, hex-shaped bleed 9. [ ] Install bleed fitting into brake-lever banjo-
fitting and plastic tube to syringe, then sub- bolt head, then slowly depress syringe
merge tip of bleed fitting into new brake plunger until only clean brake fluid is exiting
fluid and pull syringe plunger until 10cc of waste hose.
brake fluid is in syringe. 10. [ ] Remove waste-hose assembly from caliper,
7. [ ] Install bleed fitting into banjo-bolt head, then then install O-ring and bleed screw into
slowly depress syringe plunger until brake banjo-bolt head.
fluid just begins to exit free end of hose. 11. [ ] Remove syringe assembly from brake lever,
8. [ ] Detach caliper from frame or fork. then install O-ring and bleed screw into
9. [ ] Position caliper so banjo-bolt head is on top banjo-bolt head.
of caliper and parallel to ground. 12. [ ] Remove bleed screw from end of reservoir
10. [ ] With caliper maintained in this position, opposite from brake-lever clamp (use T10
remove banjo bolt from banjo fitting in cali- Torx key).
per, then separate fitting from caliper (watch 13. [ ] Switch smooth, cylindrical bleed fitting to
for O-rings on faces of banjo fitting). syringe, fill syringe with 10cc fresh fluid, then
11. [ ] Install banjo-bolt and O-rings to banjo fitting install bleed fitting into end of reservoir body.
on new hose. 14. [ ] With syringe held in plunger-up position,
12. [ ] Attach free end of new hose and banjo bolt stroke plunger up and down repeatedly,
to caliper and gently secure (banjo fitting watching for air bubbles in tube and dia-
should be free to turn with light pressure). phragm. Stop pumping when no more air
13. [ ] Attach caliper to frame or fork (alignment bubbles are seen in tube or in diaphragm and
and final security not done now). diaphragm is full of fluid. NOTE: Reservoir
14. [ ] Align banjo fitting at caliper to desired angle, diaphragm can be ruptured if syringe plunger
then secure banjo fitting to 70in-lbs. is pushed too far!
15. [ ] Leave bleeding syringe attached to brake 15. [ ] Remove syringe assembly from reservoir,
lever. Perform Bleeding system procedure then install bleed screw.
(page 37-13, start at step 4). 16. [ ] Go to Bleeding system to complete service.
16. [ ] Use steps 4–12 of BRAKE INSTALLATION (page
37-11) to install and align caliper. Bleeding system
NOTE: Remove brake pads and fill cavity with feeler
Flushing and filling system gauges or shims so pistons cannot push out.
NOTE: Remove brake pads and fill cavity with feeler 1. [ ] Remove bleed screw from center of brake-
gauges or shims so pistons cannot push out. lever banjo-bolt head, watching for O-ring
1. [ ] Remove bleed screw from center of banjo- under bleed screw (remove O-ring).
bolt head in caliper, watching carefully for 2. [ ] Assemble smaller-thread, hex-shaped bleed
O-ring under bleed screw (remove O-ring). fitting and plastic tube to syringe, then sub-
2. [ ] Install smooth, cylindrical bleed fitting (with merge tip of bleed fitting into new brake
long plastic hose attached) into banjo-bolt fluid and pull syringe plunger until 10cc of
head, then route hose to waste receptacle. brake fluid is in syringe.
3. [ ] Remove bleed screw from center of banjo- 3. [ ] Install bleed fitting into banjo-bolt head.
bolt head in brake lever, watching for O-ring 4. [ ] Squeeze brake lever to grip, then use strap
under bleed screw (remove O-ring). to hold brake lever in closed position.
4. [ ] Use 1/8" flat screwdriver to pry cover off 5. [ ] With syringe held in plunger-up position,
brake-lever reservoir. Remove bolts from stroke plunger up and down repeatedly,
diaphragm retainer (2mm hex key), then lift watching for air bubbles in tube. Stop pump-
retainer and diaphragm out of brake lever. ing and release plunger when no more air
5. [ ] Clean inside of reservoir and diaphragm. bubbles are seen in tube.
6. [ ] Install diaphragm and retainer into reservoir 6. [ ] Use 1/8" flat screwdriver to pry cover off
and retain with bolts (2mm hex key). brake-lever reservoir (unless already removed
7. [ ] Squeeze brake lever to grip, then use strap for filling reservoir).
to hold brake lever in closed position. 7. [ ] Release strap retaining brake lever, then
8. [ ] Assemble smaller-thread, hex-shaped bleed inspect reservoir diaphragm. Full diaphragm
fitting and plastic tube to syringe, then sub- has smooth dome shape. If dome looks col-
merge tip of bleed fitting into new brake lapsed, slowly push syringe plunger in just
fluid and pull syringe plunger until 20cc of until dome is full. Install reservoir cover.
brake fluid is in syringe. NOTE: Reservoir diaphragm can be ruptured
if syringe plunger is pushed too far!
37 – 13
37 – DISC BRAKES
8. [ ] Remove syringe assembly from brake 7. [ ] Use pliers to pull pistons out of inside faces
lever, then install bleed-screw O-ring and of caliper halves. NOTE: If pistons did not pop
bleed screw. out far enough in step 2, inject compressed air
9. [ ] Operate brake lever to feel for excess com- in oil ports where banjo bolt was removed—
pressibility (indicating air is still in system). If use caution and protective eye wear!
lever feel is normal, go to step 17. 8. [ ] Carefully use seal pick to remove quad-
NOTE: Continue from step 10 only if lever feel is ring seals from grooves in cylinders. NOTE:
too soft after completing step 9. Scratching cylinders with seal pick will
10. [ ] Squeeze brake lever to grip, then use strap destroy caliper!
to hold brake lever in closed position. 9. [ ] Install new quad ring into each cylinder.
11. [ ] Position bike so caliper is above lever and 10. [ ] Push new pistons (cupped-face out) into
head of caliper banjo-bolt is parallel to cylinders until ends of piston are flush with
ground and on top face of caliper. ends of cylinders.
12. [ ] Remove bleed screw from center of banjo- 11. [ ] Place O-ring in groove around banjo-bolt
bolt head, watching for O-ring under bleed hole, then mate caliper halves together.
screw (remove O-ring). 12. [ ] Treat threads of bolt(s) removed in step 6
13. [ ] Install syringe with bleed fitting into banjo-bolt with Loctite 290.
head. 13. [ ] 4Racing only: Install hex-socket bolt through
14. [ ] With syringe held in plunger-up position, outer caliper half (in hole furthest from
stroke plunger up and down repeatedly, banjo-bolt hole), then thread bolt into hole in
watching for air bubbles in tube. Stop pump- inner caliper half (snug gently).
ing and release plunger when no more air 14. [ ] 4Racing and B4: Install remaining bolt
bubbles are seen in tube. through hole in outer-caliper half that is clos-
15. [ ] Release strap retaining brake lever. est to banjo-bolt hole, then thread bolt into
16. [ ] Remove bleed fitting from caliper, then hole in inner caliper half (snug gently).
install O-ring and bleed screw. 15. [ ] Attach caliper to frame or fork (snug bolts
17. [ ] Carefully clean entire system, including gently, security and alignment not final).
rotor, of residual brake fluid. 16. [ ] Torque bolts installed in steps 13–14 to
18. [ ] Remove spacers from caliper, then use steps 40in-lbs.
5–9 of PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY (page 37-12) 17. [ ] Install banjo-bolt and O-rings to banjo fitting
to install pads. on free end of hose.
19. [ ] Use steps 4–12 of BRAKE INSTALLATION (page 18. [ ] Attach free end of hose and banjo bolt
37-11) to install and align caliper. to caliper and gently secure (banjo fitting
should be free to turn with light pressure).
19. [ ] Align banjo fitting at caliper to desired angle,
CALIPER OVERHAUL then secure banjo bolt to 70in-lbs.
If the caliper is leaking fluid at the pistons, a piston 20. [ ] Complete Flushing and filling system (page
kit should be installed. The kit includes new pistons 37-13).
and seals. 21. [ ] Use steps 4–12 of BRAKE INSTALLATION (page
1. [ ] Use steps 1–3 of PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 37-11) to install and align caliper.
(page 37-12) to remove pads.
2. [ ] Operate brake lever so pistons push out of
cylinders. LEVER OVERHAUL
3. [ ] Remove banjo bolt from caliper, then sepa- At the time of this writing, master-cylinder overhaul
rate banjo fitting from caliper (watch for was not supported by Formula (unique tools not avail-
O-rings on both faces of banjo fitting). able). If leaks are happening at master cylinder, lever
4. [ ] 4Racing only: Break loose caliper bolt in replacement is required.
outer face of caliper at end of caliper oppo-
site from banjo-bolt hole (use 3mm hex key),
then break loose bolt adjacent to hole for
banjo bolt (T25 Torx key).
B4 only: Break loose remaining bolt in outer
face of caliper (4mm hex key).
5. [ ] Remove caliper from frame or fork.
6. [ ] Remove bolt(s) broken loose in step 4, then
separate caliper halves (watch carefully for
O-ring sandwiched between faces of caliper).
37 – 14
37 – DISC BRAKES
HAYES DISC BRAKES: 7. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Install bracket bolts with
washers, cock caliper firmly in direction of
HMX-1 (MECHANICAL) wheel rotation, then torque bolts to 110in-lbs.

8. [ ] Thread caliper bolts in fully, but do not
This section covers installation, adjustment, caliper tighten (caliper should still move side to side
overhaul, and pad replacement of the Hayes HMX-1 on bracket or posts).
mechanical disc brake, introduced in 2000. 9. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster 1/4 turn (6 clicks on
knob) clockwise.
Requirements 10. [ ] Attach brake cable to brake lever, then
The caliper attaches directly to post mounts or to I.S. thread adjusting barrel out 6 full turns.
mounts by means of a variety of adapters. This cable- 11. [ ] Oil caliper pinch-mechanism threads.
operated disc brake requires a low-leverage brake lever 12. [ ] Install wire through housing stop on caliper
of the type used with linear-pull rim brakes. (or adjusting barrel) and pinch mechanism.
13. [ ] Use 4th-hand tool to pull slack from wire,
Terminology then secure pinch mechanism to 55in-lbs
Bracket bolt: Retains adapter bracket to I.S. (rotor should be fully immobilized).
mounts. 14. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever with normal
Caliper bolt: Retains caliper directly to post mount braking force to test cable seating and secu-
or to adapter bracket that attaches to I.S. mounts. rity. Check if rotor is still immobilized and
Pad adjuster: Knob or large flat bolt on inner face repeat slack-removal step if not.
of the caliper used to adjust inner pad. 15. [ ] Turn lever adjusting barrel fully clockwise.
16. [ ] While compressing brake lever firmly, secure
caliper-adjusting bolts to 110in-lbs.
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND 17. [ ] Turn inner pad adjuster fully counterclock-
wise.
ADJUSTMENT 18. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster clockwise 1/6
If the brake caliper is already installed but the brakes turn (4 knob clicks) clockwise.
are loose and need adjustment, or the brake pads have just (b) Operate brake.
been replaced, start with step #7. (c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION (d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created.
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see 19. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster 1/12 turn coun-
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel terclockwise (2 knob clicks).
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure (b) Operate brake.
(page 37-5). (c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
2. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Remove bracket bolts from (d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is eliminated.
bracket (if installed) and treat threads with 20. [ ] Squeeze brake lever until pads just contact
Loctite 242. rotor, then measure lever-to-grip clearance.
3. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Assemble caliper to If necessary, use adjusting barrel at caliper
bracket, but engage bolts only 1–2 turns. (if any) or brake lever to maintain minimum
Depending on the vintage, two types of inner-pad clearance of 25mm.
adjusters might be seen. The early ones were fit by a 21. [ ] Trim inner wire to length that cannot reach
to nearest point on rotor slot, then solder
4mm hex key. The more recent ones have no hex-key fit-
and cap wire.
ting but have a plastic knob. If the knob is hard to turn,
the mechanism needs lubrication. NOTE: Avoid getting
lubricant on brake pads or rotor! PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY
4. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully counterclock- Pads should be replaced when thickness of braking
wise. material is .45mm or less.
5. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Loosen caliper bolts (if 1. [ ] Remove wheel.
tight) and treat with Loctite 242. NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be
Post mounts only: Treat caliper bolts with touched with fingers or contaminated with
Loctite 242. grease or oil of any type. With proper atten-
6. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Place caliper over rotor, tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and
with mounting bracket behind I.S. mounts. reinstalled without being contaminated.
Post mounts only: Place caliper over rotor, 2. [ ] Remove pads by pulling on tabs (pads are
with mounting holes over post holes. held in place by spring clips on back faces of
pads).
37 – 15
37 – DISC BRAKES
3. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge 7. [ ] Holding onto pad tab, lift pad/pressure-plate
end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue assembly out of outer caliper body, then
solvent (such as alcohol), then measure remove pad from pressure plate.
braking-material thickness with depth gauge. 8. [ ] Remove all three 1/4" ball bearings from
NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly, inside caliper body, then remove ball-retainer
measure at thinnest point. plate from caliper body.
HAYES PAD WEAR (table 37-5) 9. [ ] Remove outer ball ramp, bearing retainer,
and bearing cup from outer body.
Braking-material thickness Remaining life 10. [ ] Clean and inspect all parts, using mild deter-
1.80mm 100% gent and water or isopropyl alcohol. NOTE:
1.42mm 75% Do not use brake cleaner or other solvents!
11. [ ] Position frame/fork so inside face of outer
1.04mm 50%
caliper body points straight up.
0.66mm 25% 12. [ ] Insert bearing cup (cupped-face up) into
0.30mm Replace immediately outer caliper body.
4. [ ] Clean inside caliper around piston with water In several of the following assembly steps, caliper
and detergent on brush, or isopropyl alcohol. parts are greased. The grease must be resistant to high
NOTE: Do not use automotive brake clean- temperatures and water. NOTE: Grease should always
ers! Damage will occur! be applied sparingly to avoid any run out at high tem-
5. [ ] Observe that one pad has tab in line with peratures! Automotive and marine greases that have
retaining spring and other pad has tab that is sufficient resistance to high temperatures and are speci-
offset to retaining spring. fied as highly water resistant include Lubriplate 1552,
6. [ ] Install pad with in-line tab in outer side of Penzoil 707L, Sta-Lube Multi-purpose Marine Grease,
caliper slot, then install other pad in inner
and Valvoline Durablend.
side of caliper slot. If pads are properly
13. [ ] Lightly grease bearing retainer, then install
installed, spring resistance will be felt when
into caliper body so flatter face of retainer
pushing each tab toward the other.
ring faces out of caliper body.
14. [ ] Lightly grease outer ball ramp, then insert
ball ramp (ramp-face up).
CALIPER OVERHAUL 15. [ ] Rotate ball ramp so that any of three gaps
between ramps aligns with triangular notch
If the brake feels sluggish, stiff to operate, or the
in caliper body (at edge of piston hole).
pads fail to release from the rotor when the brake lever is 16. [ ] Fill hole in caliper with ball-point pen or similar
released, the cable or the caliper may need service. Cable shaft, then place one 1/4" ball bearing in deep
service is the same as all cable-operated brakes. Always end of each ramp in ball ramp (in caliper).
check the cable condition before servicing the caliper. The 17. [ ] Place ball-retainer plate over 1/4" bearings.
caliper has delicate internals that can become congested 18. [ ] Lightly grease ball ramps on face of pressure
with dirt or become sluggish from loss of lubrication. The plate and perimeter of pressure plate.
caliper can be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated with 19. [ ] Drop pressure plate into caliper, then align
the following procedure. dot (in pressure-plate face) close to triangu-
1. [ ] Detach and remove cable from caliper. lar notch in caliper face so that grooves in
2. [ ] Use pick or small screwdriver to gently pry piston align with splines in caliper. Pressure
cover off outer face of caliper. plate should install until face is flush with
3. [ ] Insert a small leverage bar (such as 1/8" slot- top of hole in caliper body.
ted screwdriver) through spring loop exposed 20. [ ] Select brake pad that has tab in line with
by removing cover, then lever spring loop up mounting slot, then install pad to pressure
until pin can be removed from spring loop and plate so spring engages stud on face of piston.
caliper with needle-nose pliers. 21. [ ] Install wheel.
4. [ ] Remove caliper arm from outer face of cali- 22. [ ] Position frame/fork so outer face of caliper
per, then remove plastic seal from back face points straight up.
of caliper arm or from face of caliper. 23. [ ] Put one drop of Loctite 290 in each threaded
5. [ ] Holding on to inner caliper body, remove hole in inner caliper-body half, then place
two caliper bolts from front face of caliper, inner caliper-body half against rotor and align
then separate caliper halves. caliper-bolt holes of both caliper halves.
6. [ ] Position frame/fork so outer face of caliper 24. [ ] Insert bolts through outer caliper body and
points straight to floor, then remove wheel. thread bolts into inner caliper body.
37 – 16
37 – DISC BRAKES
25. [ ] Torque bolts to 100in-lbs. 1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
26. [ ] Insert plastic seal into outer face of caliper. procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
27. [ ] Insert caliper arm into caliper body so ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
pinch bolt is directly over most-clock- in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
wise caliper bolt, then press in on arm (page 37-5).
and rotate approximately 60° until three 2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
prongs on inner end of lever engage three handlebar.
notches in face of ball ramp. 3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
28. [ ] Insert leverage tool into spring loop and tional position, then secure mounting bolts
lever loop up until leverage tool is flat. Wind to 15–20in-lbs.
spring 180º counterclockwise, then insert 4. [ ] Use small slotted screwdriver to turn reach
spring pin through loop. Lower loop and seat adjusting screw (in brass fitting at inner end
pin into nearest notches. of brake lever) fully counterclockwise, then
29. [ ] Install cover plate with tab in notch that back in two full turns. NOTE: Reach adjust-
puts logo in most horizontal position, then ment does not affect clearance adjustment
attach cable and perform pad adjustment or brake operation—this adjustment is only
(step 4 and steps 8–21, page 37-15). intended to make reach appropriate for
average-sized hands.
5. [ ] I.S. mounts only: Treat bracket bolts with
Loctite 242. Place adapter bracket on inside
HAYES DISC BRAKES: face of mounts, thread in bracket bolts, then
firmly cock bracket in direction of wheel
HYDRAULIC MODELS rotation while securing bolts to 110in-lbs.
6. [ ] Treat caliper-bolt threads with Loctite 242.
7. [ ] Place caliper over rotor, align mounting
ABOUT THIS SECTION holes in caliper with post or bracket holes,
then install caliper bolts (thread bolts in as
This section specifically covers Hayes hydraulic disc-
far as possible without limiting side-to-side
brake models, including the original 1998/1999 model,
motion of caliper).
the HFX-Mag, the HFX-Mag Plus, the DH Purple, the 8. [ ] Squeeze brake lever firmly, then secure
Comp, and the HFX-9. This does not include the Hayes caliper bolts to 110in-lbs. Release lever and
cable-actuated disc brake system (HMX-1). The proce- check clearance between rotor and cali-
dures covered in this section include lever installation, per pads. Rotor should be centered in slot
hose installation, filling and bleeding the system, caliper between pads. If not, loosen bolts and align
installation, caliper overhaul, and pad replacement. caliper to achieve equal pad clearance on
each side of rotor, then secure bolts.
TOOLS
No special tools are required for normal installation PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY
and adjustment. Hose replacement and bleeding and fill- Pads should be replaced when thickness of braking
ing the system requires a Hayes bleed kit (#98-14546), material is .45mm or less.
which consists of a two hoses, a plastic bleed fitting, an 1. [ ] Remove wheel.
aluminum bleed fitting, and a squeeze bottle. NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be
touched with fingers or contaminated with
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten-
BRAKE INSTALLATION tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and
reinstalled without being contaminated.
The following procedure is used to install a new brake,
2. [ ] Remove pads by pulling on tabs (pads are
which includes a lever, hose, and caliper, which are pre-
held in place by spring clip on back faces
assembled, filled, and bled. If the hose needs to be sized,
of pads).
it is preferable to first install the brake with this procedure,
then perform the hose-sizing procedure. If the hose is
too short to reach the brake lever without being kinked,
temporarily compromise the brake lever and handlebar
positions until completion of this procedure.
37 – 17
37 – DISC BRAKES
Compression nut 13mm nut Cartridge

retainer
Hose Cover Gasket

Compression fitting Bladder
Lever body
NOTE: LEVER ASSEMBLY SHOWN Bleed screw
AT 3/4 SCALE OF CALIPER ASSEMBLY
Boot
Hose
Wavy washer
Clip
Cylinder cartridge Pivot shaft
Compression nut Wavy washer

Lever
Compression fitting Banjo bolt
O-ring
Banjo fitting
Back caliper-half
O-ring
O-ring Front caliper-half

Piston seal Bleed valve
Piston
Piston
Piston seal
Bleed-valve cover
Caliper bolt
Pad Oval washer

Pad
Caliper bolt
Oval washer
37.1 Typical Hayes hydraulic disc brake. Hose attachments and lever design may vary with model year.
37 – 18
37 – DISC BRAKES
3. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge on). The fixed type threads directly into the caliper and is
end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue fit by a 10mm open-end wrench.
solvent (such as alcohol), then measure NOTE: This brake contains DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake
braking-material thickness with depth gauge. fluid, which is a skin and eye irritant, damages
NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly, paint, and destroys brake pads. Working with the
measure at thinnest point. hose means fluid will be released. Wear appro-
HAYES PAD WEAR (table 37-6) priate safety equipment to protect eyes and skin!
1. [ ] Remove wheel and brake pads.
Overall thickness Remaining life
2. [ ] All except HFX-9: Slide plastic sleeve on
1.80mm 100% lever-end of hose away from brake lever,
1.42mm 75% then unthread 10mm hose-nut fitting from
1.04mm 50% brake lever. Pull hose straight off brake lever.
HFX-9 only: Slide plastic sleeve on lever-
0.66mm 25%
end of hose away from brake lever, then
0.30mm Replace immediately unthread 8mm hose-nut fitting from lever
4. [ ] Clean inside caliper around piston with water and slide fitting down hose. Pull hose from
and detergent on brush, or isopropyl alcohol. inward end of lever.
NOTE: Do not use automotive brake clean- 3. [ ] Only if replacing banjo-type hose: Unthread
ers! Damage will occur! 10mm hose nut at caliper end of hose and
5. [ ] Use box end of 10mm combination wrench pull hose off banjo fitting.
to depress pistons back into caliper. NOTE: Only if replacing fixed-fitting hose: Unthread
Avoid pressing on studs in centers of pis- 10mm hose nut at caliper end of hose.
tons! Pistons may need to be rocked back 4. [ ] Only if replacing banjo-type hose: Install
and forth to depress fully. 10mm fitting removed from caliper end of
6. [ ] Observe that one pad has tab in line with old hose onto new hose (round-end first).
retaining spring and other pad has tab that is 5. [ ] Only if replacing banjo-type hose: Place new
offset to retaining spring. compression bushing over caliper end of hose,
7. [ ] Install pad with in-line tab in outer side of then press hose onto barbed fitting (long nip-
caliper slot, then install other pad in inner ple) protruding from banjo fitting. Secure hose
side of caliper slot. nut to 40in-lbs, plus one full turn.
8. [ ] Install wheel. Only if replacing fixed-fitting hose: Place
O-ring over threads on end of fixed hose fit-
ting, then install hose fitting into caliper and
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT secure to 60in-lbs.
Hayes brake levers can be adjusted for reach. The reach 6. [ ] Route hose to lever and decide on appro-
adjustment has no effect on the brake adjustment, other priate length. Use sharp razor knife or hose
than the fact that reducing the reach reduces the available cutter to trim hose to desired length. End
should be cut as square as possible.
lever travel. A 3/32" flat screwdriver is used to turn the
7. [ ] All except HFX-9: Place plastic fitting
piston rod in the brake lever to change the reach. cover (small-end first), hose nut (round-
end first), then new compression bushing
INSTALLING OR SIZING HOSE (silver) onto cut end of hose.
HFX-9 only: Place plastic fitting cover
If the caliper hose is damaged, too short, or too long, (small-end first), hose nut (hex-end first),
then it is necessary to install a new hose or re-size the exist- then new compression bushing (gold) onto
ing hose. The same procedure suffices for both. A hose cut end of hose. Insert new barbed fitting
is too short if it must bend sharply at any time. A hose (long-end first) into end of hose (barbed-
is too long only if it interferes with other components or fitting shoulder flush to end of hose).
snags on things during use of the bicycle. Performance of 8. [ ] All except HFX-9: Press hose onto barbed
the brake system is unaffected by hose length. fitting (long nipple) protruding from brake
Hayes brakes have been designed with two types of lever. Secure hose nut to 40in-lbs, plus one
hose fittings for the caliper end of the hose. One type is a full turn. Slide plastic cover over nut.
HFX-9 only: Insert fitting on end of hose into
banjo fitting. The banjo fitting is removable from the hose
brake lever, slide compression fitting to end
and is secured by means of a threaded compression fitting. of hose, then thread in hose nut and secure
The other type is a fixed hose end (permanently crimped to 60in-lbs. Slide plastic cover over nut.
37 – 19
37 – DISC BRAKES
9. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure 12. [ ] Squeeze bottle 5 seconds and release 3 sec-
(immediately following). onds, repeating cycle continuously until no
bubbles appear in bottle hose during release,
then squeeze bottle continuously until fresh
FILLING AND BLEEDING fluid with no bubbles is seen coming out hose
Filling and bleeding are normally done as part of hose at brake lever. NOTE: Maintain pressure on
replacement, hose sizing, or when repairing a leak in the bottle at completion of bleeding cycle!
system. Hayes does not recommend filling and bleeding 13. [ ] While maintaining pressure on bottle, secure
as routine maintenance. bleed fitting.
NOTE: This brake contains DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake 14. [ ] Remove bottle hose from bleed fitting, then
fluid, which is a skin and eye irritant, damages install rubber cap on bleed fitting.
paint, and destroys brake pads. Wear appropriate 15. [ ] All except HFX-9: Remove waste line from
safety equipment to protect eyes and skin! brake lever and install bleed screw until O-ring
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike. begins to compress.
2. [ ] Remove both brake pads. HFX-9 only: Remove waste line from brake
3. [ ] Put bike in position so that bleed valve is lever and press in bleed-fitting cap.
pointing straight up. Remove rubber cap 16. [ ] Clean caliper of any fluid, then install brake
fully from bleed fitting. pads and wheel.
4. [ ] All except HFX-9: Position handlebar so grip 17. [ ] Operate brake and check for soft or spongy
is 45º to ground (outer-end up). Rotate lever feel and leaks at hose fittings, bleed fitting,
body on handlebar so it is pointing straight and bleed screw. Repeat bleeding procedure
up from handlebar. if brake feels soft or spongy.
HFX-9 only: Position handlebar so grip is
exactly parallel to ground. Rotate lever body
on handlebar so it is pointing straight up CALIPER OVERHAUL
from handlebar. Hayes supports overhauling the caliper. If a leak
5. [ ] Suspend waste-oil receptacle from brake lever. develops at the pistons, then seals in the caliper need to be
6. [ ] All except HFX-9: Remove Phillips bleed replaced. If the studs on the pistons that engage the pads
screw from brake lever, then insert hose are bent or broken, the pads will fall out. In this case, the
(with conical bleed fitting attached) into piston(s) need replacement. An overhaul kit includes new
brake-lever bleed hole. Other end of hose pistons, piston seals, and a transfer-port O-ring. All new
goes into empty waste receptacle. parts should be used when servicing the caliper. The O-ring
HFX-9 only: Use fingers or small screwdriver is a special material, so no substitution should be made.
to pry up plastic cap (do not remove Torx NOTE: This brake contains DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake
screws), then insert hose (with aluminum fluid, which is a skin and eye irritant, damages
bleed fitting attached) into brake-lever bleed paint, and destroys brake pads. Servicing the
hole. Other end of hose goes into empty caliper will drain the entire system of brake
waste receptacle. fluid. Wear appropriate safety equipment to
NOTE: End of hose in waste receptacle protect eyes and skin!
should never be submerged in waste oil. 1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike.
7. [ ] Fill squeeze bottle from bleed kit with fresh 2. [ ] Remove pads from caliper.
oil from sealed and uncontaminated container 3. [ ] Unthread bolt through banjo fitting so hose
of DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. NOTE: DOT 5 detaches from caliper. Rubber O-rings on
or mineral oil are not acceptable substitutes! bolt will retain bolt is banjo fitting.
8. [ ] Place remaining hose on nozzle of squeeze 4. [ ] Unthread two bolts in outer face of caliper
bottle. and separate caliper halves, watching for
9. [ ] Place other end of squeeze-bottle hose over small O-ring that is sandwiched between
bleed fitting, then secure hose to bleed fit- caliper halves.
ting with zip tie. 5. [ ] Remove caliper from mount.
10. [ ] Keeping squeeze bottle upside down, 6. [ ] Thread a short 6×1mm bolt into hole where
squeeze and release several times to release banjo-fitting bolt was removed.
air bubbles in hose up into bottle. 7. [ ] Wrap rag around one caliper half, leaving
11. [ ] Unthread bleed valve 1/4 turn. transfer port (small hole in center of O-ring
that was sandwiched between caliper halves)
uncovered by rag.
37 – 20
37 – DISC BRAKES
8. [ ] Place rubber-tipped air gun against transfer- 1. [ ] Remove hose from lever (if not servicing
port hole, then use compressed air to blow whole brake system, fix end of hose point-
piston out of caliper half. Piston should be ing up to retain fluid).
caught in rag. 2. [ ] Unthread 13mm nut where hose came off
9. [ ] Repeat steps 7–8 for other side, then (do not push in on shaft from which nut is
remove bolt that was threaded into banjo- being removed).
bolt hole. Depending on model and vintage, one of three differ-
10. [ ] Remove seal from inside each cylinder. NOTE: ent methods of lever-pivot removal is needed. There are
Avoid scratching cylinder or seal groove! lever pivots with a clip on the end (clip type), with 4mm
11. [ ] Clean all parts with alcohol and dry with hex-socket bolts in each end (bolt type), or with no clip
compressed air. Thoroughly blow out all
or bolts (press type).
holes, including bleed fitting, which should
3. [ ] Clip-type lever pivots only: Pry clip of lever-
be loosened to blow dry.
pivot shaft and push out pivot shaft. NOTE:
12. [ ] Lubricate new seals with DOT 3 or DOT 4,
Watch for wavy washers sandwiched
then seat carefully in grooves.
between lever and lever body!
13. [ ] Lubricate pistons with DOT 3 or DOT 4,
Bolt-type lever pivots only: Remove bolts
then press carefully into caliper halves until
from each end of lever pivot.
pistons seat fully (below seals). Difficulty
Press-type lever pivots only: Support lever
seating pistons indicates seals are not in
body over open vise jaw (with lever pivot
grooves properly.
over opening), then use drift and mallet to
14. [ ] Place transfer-port O-ring into seat in one
drive out pin. When lever is free from body,
caliper half.
remove plastic bushings from both faces of
15. [ ] Treat caliper-half bolts with Loctite 290.
lever-pivot hole.
16. [ ] Place caliper halves together, then thread in
4. [ ] Use very small slotted screwdriver to thread
bolts (do not secure bolts).
reach adjuster clockwise until it threads out
17. [ ] Thoroughly clean outside of caliper. Alcohol
of brass fitting in lever.
is preferred.
5. [ ] Pull master-cylinder cartridge out back end
18. [ ] Install caliper to mounts and gently snug
of lever body.
mounting bolts.
6. [ ] Remove round gasket from inside of lever
19. [ ] Secure caliper-half bolts to 90–120in-lbs.
body where end of cylinder cartridge seated
20. [ ] Inspect O-rings on banjo bolt and replace
inside body (gasket may have remained on
if torn or damaged. Special O-rings are
hose end of cartridge).
required that are part of a banjo-service kit.
NOTE: The master-cylinder cartridge may come out
21. [ ] Place banjo fitting on caliper and secure
by itself or with other pieces. Step 7 assumes
banjo bolt to 55in-lbs.
the other pieces have remained in the lever
22. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure (page
body. If not, remove them in reverse order from
37-20).
the cartridge instead (bladder and cartridge
23. [ ] Install wheel, then perform steps 5–8 of
retainer come off hose end of cartridge).
BRAKE INSTALLATION (page 37-17).
7. [ ] Remove cartridge retainer (plastic piece into
which bleed screw is threaded) from lever
MASTER CYLINDER SERVICE: body. Cartridge bladder may come out with
cartridge retainer or may stay inside lever
COMP, MAG, DH, & 98/99 body (remove it).
This procedure covers all Hayes levers made though 8. [ ] Remove shaft boot (smaller rubber boot)
2003, with the exception of the HFX-9. The simplest from small shaft at end of cylinder cartridge.
means to identify whether a lever is covered by this service 9. [ ] Use internal snap-ring pliers to remove snap-
ring in end of cartridge, then remove flat
is to look for a Phillips screw on the bottom edge of the
washer, piston (leave seals on), spring guide
brake-lever body (the bleed screw). If a plastic cap is in
(shaft inside spring), and coil spring.
this location instead, the lever is the HFX-9 type. 10. [ ] Thoroughly clean lever body and cylinder
Hayes supports servicing the master cylinder. If a leak cartridge (unless being replaced) with alco-
develops at the master cylinder (not at the hose), then the hol and blow dry with compressed air.
lever should be rebuilt. This usually just requires a service 11. [ ] Insert coil spring into cartridge body, making
kit, which includes a new piston (with seals), a new boot, sure that spring seats in small hole in hose
new bladder, a gasket, and special grease. All new parts end of cartridge body.
should be used when servicing the lever. 12. [ ] Insert spring guide into spring.
37 – 21
37 – DISC BRAKES
13. [ ] Lubricate seals on new piston with grease 28. [ ] Clip-type lever pivots only: Place second
supplied with service kit, then install open wavy washer between lever and lever body,
end of piston over spring and into cartridge. then push lever-pivot shaft fully through and
14. [ ] Place flat washer over piston, then install push retaining ring onto shaft.
snap-ring (flatter-face out). 29. [ ] Put new compression bushing on end of
15. [ ] Insert cartridge shaft through small hole in hose, then engage hose nut to lever. Secure
shaft boot, making sure boot seats between hose nut to 40in-lbs, then tighten one full
raised rings on shaft, then seat large end of turn more.
boot onto cartridge body. 30. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure (page
16. [ ] Grease shaft boot with special grease sup- 37-20).
plied with service kit.
17. [ ] Insert cartridge into plastic cartridge retainer
so cartridge body sticks out of retainer in MASTER CYLINDER SERVICE:
same direction as long plastic prong on
retainer points, then seat cartridge into
HFX-9 BRAKE LEVER
retainer with a “snap.” This procedure covers the HFX-9 brake lever. The
18. [ ] Grease inside edges of both ends of car- simplest means to identify whether a lever is covered by
tridge bladder with special grease, then slide this service is to look for a plastic cap on the bottom
bladder (large-end first) over cartridge. edge of the brake-lever body (the bleed-fitting cover). If
19. [ ] Line up oval shape of bladder end with oval a Phillips screw is in this location, instead, the lever is not
shape of plastic cartridge retainer, then seat the HFX-9 type.
bladder onto ridges of retainer. Hayes supports servicing the master cylinder. If a
20. [ ] Seat small end of bladder onto end of car- leak develops at the master cylinder (not at the hose),
tridge and against ridge on cartridge.
then the lever should be rebuilt. This usually just requires
21. [ ] Rotate cartridge in cartridge retainer so flat
a service kit, which includes a new piston (with seals) and
on end of cartridge faces same direction as
long prong on cartridge retainer. special grease.
22. [ ] Place new gasket over end of cartridge. 1. [ ] Remove hose from lever (if not servicing
23. [ ] Insert cartridge into lever body fully. Check whole brake system, fix end of hose point-
that flat on cartridge has engaged flat inside ing up to retain fluid).
lever body by trying to rotate exposed end 2. [ ] Remove brake lever from handlebar.
of cartridge. It should not rotate. 3. [ ] Remove bolts from each end of lever pivot.
24. [ ] Thread on 13mm nut (hex-end first) and When lever is free from body, remove plastic
secure to 55in-lbs. bushings from both ends of lever-pivot hole.
25. [ ] Engage brass bushing of lever to threaded 4. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to thread reach adjuster
shaft at back end of cartridge, then use clockwise until it threads out of fitting in lever.
small slotted screwdriver to thread shaft 5. [ ] Use internal snap-ring pliers to remove snap-
fully into brass bushing. ring inside outward end of lever body, then
26. [ ] Clip-type lever pivots only: Start lever pivot remove flat washer, push rod, piston (leave
into outer face of lever body, then place seals on), and coil spring.
wavy washer over shaft once it just pro- 6. [ ] Thoroughly clean lever body and all parts with
trudes inside lever body. alcohol and blow dry with compressed air.
Press-type lever pivots only: Install bushings 7. [ ] Assemble spring to end of piston without
in each end of lever-pivot hole. socket for push-rod ball. Lubricate piston
27. [ ] Clip-type lever pivots only: Place lever inside seals with supplied grease, then drop assem-
lever body, then push lever-pivot shaft par- bly into cylinder (spring-end first).
tially through lever. 8. [ ] Lubricate ball end of push rod with supplied
Bolt-type lever pivots only: Treat bolt grease.
threads with drop of Loctite 242. Install 9. [ ] Place flat washer over piston, then install
bolts through holes in sides of lever body, snap-ring (flatter-face out).
then secure bolts to each other. 10. [ ] Engage bushing of lever to threaded shaft
Press-type lever pivots only: Support lever at back end of cartridge, then use 2mm hex
body over open vise jaw (with lever-pivot hole key to thread shaft fully into bushing.
over opening), then use mallet to drive in pin. 11. [ ] Install bushings in each end of lever-pivot hole.
12. [ ] Treat bolt threads with drop of Loctite 242.
Install bolts through holes in sides of lever
body, then secure bolts to each other.
37 – 22
37 – DISC BRAKES
13. [ ] Install brake lever to handlebar. between the pads and the rotor. With the addition of
14. [ ] Put new compression bushing (gold) on end commonly available .2mm shims, shim spacing can be
of hose and new barbed insert into end of achieved that is between the increments that are possible
hose (long-end first). Then engage hose nut with the stock shims. For example, two .2mm shims cre-
to lever. Secure hose nut to 60in-lbs.
ate .4mm spacing, one .2mm shim and one .25mm shim
15. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure (page
create .45mm spacing, three .2mm shims create .6mm
37-20).
spacing, and two .2mm shims and one .25mm shim cre-
ate .65mm spacing. Using only the stock shims, changes
RESERVOIR SERVICE: may only be made in .25mm increments, which may well
HFX-9 BRAKE LEVER be too coarse an adjustment.
NOTE: Due to extremely tight clearances between
1. [ ] Remove reservoir-cap bolts from brake lever pads and rotor found on these brakes, milling
(T10 Torx key fits). mounts should be considered mandatory.
2. [ ] Remove reservoir-cap/bladder assembly from 1. [ ] Perform MILLING I.S. MOUNTS procedure (page
lever (do not separate bladder from cap). 37-6).
3. [ ] Clean all parts with alcohol. 2. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
4. [ ] Inspect parts for damage and replace as procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
needed. ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
5. [ ] Install reservoir-cap/bladder assembly into in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
brake-lever body. (page 37-5). NOTE: Extreme tight clearances
6. [ ] Install bolts and secure with T10 Torx key. of these brakes result in rubbing with the
7. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure (page least amount of rotor wobble. If possible,
37-20). true rotor to two-mark range on Morningstar
Roc-Tech gauge.
3. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
HOPE DISC BRAKES:

handlebar.
4. [ ] Install Hope brake lever to bar in final posi-
CLOSED 2, MINI, & M4

tion, then use 4mm hex bit to secure lever-
clamp bolts to 35in-lbs (maintaining equal
This section covers Hope Closed 2, Mini, and M4 disc gaps between clamp halves at both bolts).
brakes. The Mini is a two-piston caliper and is used with 5. [ ] Place caliper over rotor and behind I.S.
a Hope Mini lever, which has a square reservoir. Further mounts.
verification that the caliper is the Mini can be made by 6. [ ] Install bolts through mounts and into caliper,
then gently secure bolts (about 20–30in-lbs).
examining the shaft that goes through the caliper and pad
7. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times.
eyes. If the shaft has a 2.5mm hex socket on the outer
Spacing these calipers to minimize pad rub is very
end, the caliper is the Mini model. The only other Hope
painstaking. Even under ideal conditions, light rub
two-piston caliper (the Closed 2 model) has two split pins
should be considered acceptable. Hope defines light
going through the caliper and the pad eyes. The Hope
rub as rub that cannot be heard over the normal noise
M4 is the only four-piston caliper made by Hope. It also
of the tire on the dirt.
utilizes the Hope Mini lever. The Closed 2 lever has a large 8. [ ] Spin wheel and check for pad rub. If rub-
knob on top of a 12-sided reservoir. bing, inspect for rub between inner pad and
inner face of rotor. NOTE: If no pad rub is
MINI & M4 INSTALLATION experienced, go to step 10.
9. [ ] If rubbing is experienced in step 8, remove
This section covers Hope Mini and M4 disc brakes. caliper and add .2mm shim between each
The following procedure assumes a new brake in out- mount and caliper, then repeat steps 6–8.
of-the-box condition is being installed. This is a closed Continue this cycle each time rub is still
system that is already full of brake fluid. If hose sizing is encountered, increasing shim-stack thick-
needed, install the brake completely (including all caliper ness by smallest possible increment each
alignments), then use the hose-sizing procedure. time. NOTE: If an increase in shim-stack
The brake comes with .25mm, .75mm, and 1.5mm thickness of .1mm or less causes rub to
caliper-mounting shims (four of each), but these may switch to outer pad or both pads rub at
one setting, rotor needs to be trued and/or
prove insufficient for the precise caliper alignment
mounts need to be milled (if either process
required by the minute clearances these brakes have was omitted).
37 – 23
37 – DISC BRAKES
10. [ ] Remove one caliper bolt, treat threads with 9. [ ] Spin wheel and check for pad rub. If rub-
Loctite 242, then install bolt and torque to bing, inspect for rub between inner pad and
70in-lbs. Repeat for other bolt. NOTE: While inner face of rotor. NOTE: If no pad rub is
tightening bolts, firmly cock caliper in direc- experienced, go to step 11.
tion it will move with brake loads! 10. [ ] If rubbing is experienced in step 9, remove
caliper and add .2mm shim between each
mount and caliper, then repeat steps 8–9.
CLOSED 2 INSTALLATION Continue this cycle each time rub is still
This section covers Hope Closed 2 disc brakes. encountered, increasing shim-stack thick-
The following procedure assumes a new brake in out- ness by smallest possible increment each
of-the-box condition is being installed. This is a closed time. NOTE: If an increase in shim-stack
system that is already full of brake fluid. If hose sizing is thickness of .1mm or less causes rub to
needed, install the brake completely (including all caliper switch to outer pad, loosen pad adjuster. If
both pads rub at one setting, rotor needs to
alignments), then use the hose-sizing procedure.
be trued and/or mounts need to be milled (if
The brake comes with .25mm, .75mm, and 1.5mm either process was omitted).
caliper-mounting shims (four of each). With the addition 11. [ ] Remove one caliper bolt, treat threads with
of commonly available .2mm shims, shim spacing can be Loctite 242, then install bolt and torque to
achieved between the increments that are possible with 70in-lbs. Repeat for other bolt. NOTE: While
the stock shims. For example, two .2mm shims create tightening bolts, firmly cock caliper in direc-
.4mm spacing, one .2mm shim and one .25mm shim tion it will move with brake loads!
create .45mm spacing, three .2mm shims create .6mm
spacing, and two .2mm shims and one .25mm shim cre-
ate .65mm spacing. Using only the stock shims, changes
LEVER-REACH ADJUSTMENT
Hope brake levers can be adjusted for reach. The
may only be made in .25mm increments, which may well
reach adjustment has no effect on the brake adjustment,
be too coarse an adjustment.
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION other than the fact that reducing the reach reduces the
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see available lever travel. Some models have a 2mm hex-socket
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel bolt (in the end of the pivot that is attached to the piston
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure rod) that must be loosened before making the adjustment.
(page 37-5). Depending on the model, to change the reach, a 2mm or
2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from 2.5mm hex key is used to turn the piston rod.
handlebar.
3. [ ] Install Hope brake lever to bar in final posi-
tion, then use 4mm hex bit to secure lever- PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY
clamp bolts to 35in-lbs, maintaining equal Pads should be replaced when combined thickness of
gaps between clamp halves at both bolts. backing plate and braking material is 2.25mm or less.
4. [ ] Place caliper over rotor and behind I.S. 1. [ ] Remove wheel.
mounts. 2. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Use needle-nose pliers to
5. [ ] Install bolts through mounts and into cali- remove clip from inner end of bolt that goes
per, but leave them 2 turns out from fully through pad eyes (two bolts and clips on M4).
installed. Closed 2 only: Use pliers to squeeze
6. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times. together ends of split pins that go through
This brake is a closed system and does not have self- caliper, then pull pins out.
adjusting clearance. The travel-adjust knob on the lever is 3. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Use 2.5mm hex key to
used to compensate for pad wear and to compensate for unthread pad-retaining bolt(s).
the brake getting too tight when it heats up. Therefore, the NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be
pad adjuster needs to be set for reasonable clearance to the touched with fingers or contaminated with
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten-
rotor and to allow for later loosening of the clearance.
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and
7. [ ] Place .4mm feeler gauge between inner
reinstalled without being contaminated.
face of rotor and inner pad, then turn travel-
4. [ ] Use finger to push through access hole (on
adjust knob on brake lever until feeler gauge
outside edge of caliper) to push pad/spring
fits with no slop and drags very lightly as it
set out through rotor slot (two sets on M4).
is being withdrawn.
5. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Separate pads from 4-prong
8. [ ] Secure bolts to approximately 20–30in-lbs.
spring(s).
37 – 24
37 – DISC BRAKES
6. [ ] Clean measuring-caliper jaws of any oil or 2. [ ] Use 8mm wrench to unthread hose nut from
grease with zero-residue solvent (such as brake lever.
alcohol), then measure pad thickness (includ- 3. [ ] Use screwdriver to slightly pry open slot in
ing backing plate). NOTE: If pad appears to be compression fitting, then slide fitting away
worn irregularly, measure at thinnest point. from end of hose.
HOPE PAD WEAR (table 37-7) NOTE: At conclusion of step 4, brake fluid can
come out of hose. If at all possible, keep open
Overall thickness Remaining life end of hose pointing upward and avoid letting
4.30mm 100% hose dangle or swing.
3.73mm 75% 4. [ ] Carefully pry between hose and fitting to
which it is installed, then gently pull hose off
3.15mm 50%
fitting.
2.58mm 25% 5. [ ] Only if replacing hose: Repeat steps 2–4 for
2.00mm Replace immediately end of hose at caliper.
7. [ ] Clean inside caliper around piston with water 6. [ ] If hose needs to be routed through closed
and detergent on brush, or isopropyl alcohol. frame fittings, adjust bike position so hose
NOTE: Do not use automotive brake clean- may remain pointed up while routing hose
ers! Damage will occur! through fittings.
8. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Assemble pads to 4-prong 7. [ ] Only if replacing hose: Slide hose nut (small-
spring(s) with braking surfaces facing each end first) and compression fitting (after hose
other, spring prongs adjacent to braking nut) onto each end of new hose.
material and contacting backing plate, and 8. [ ] Use razor knife or hose cutter to cut hose to
spring eyes at ends of assembly near pad desired length (cut must be clean and square).
tabs. 9. [ ] Push hose back onto fitting in end of brake
9. [ ] Mini/M4 only: If installing new pads, use lever.
box end of 10mm combination wrench to 10. [ ] Slide compression fitting back to end of hose.
depress pistons fully. 11. [ ] Engage hose nut to threads on brake lever,
Closed 2 only: If installing new pads, turn then secure hose nut to 70in-lbs.
travel adjuster (on brake lever) fully counter- 12. [ ] Only if replacing hose: Repeat steps 9–11
clockwise. for end of hose at caliper.
10. [ ] Insert pads into rotor slot so pad tabs line up 13. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Perform MINI/M4 FILLING AND BLEED-
with retaining-bolt or split-pin holes. ING procedure (immediately following).
11. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Treat threads on retaining Closed 2 only: Perform CLOSED 2 FILLING AND
bolt(s) with Loctite 242, then install bolt(s) BLEEDING procedure (page 37-26).
and torque to 35in-lbs.
Closed 2 only: Install new split pins through
caliper and pad holes (from outside face to
MINI/M4 FILLING AND BLEEDING
inside face). Bleeding should be done anytime the hose is separated
12. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Install clip(s) into slots in from the caliper or brake lever or anytime the brake develops
end(s) of pad-retaining bolt(s). a spongy, soft feel. Hope recommends flushing the system
Closed 2 only: On back face of caliper, use every four years for normal use or annually for heavy, extreme,
pliers to bend long side of each split pin or downhill use.
away from short sides of pins. The only tools and supplies required for bleeding the
13. [ ] Install wheel. system are a foot-long section of 1/4" I.D. clear vinyl tubing
14. [ ] Closed 2 only: Turn travel adjuster clockwise and a container of DOT 5 brake fluid. Mineral oil cannot
until lever travel is sufficient.
be used under any circumstances. Theoretically, DOT 3 and
DOT 4 could be used, but only with all new hose, O-rings,
INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE and seals throughout. The caliper and brake lever would also
This procedure is designed for shortening an exist- need to be totally purged of DOT 5 fluid.
ing hose or installing a new hose. A new hose needs to 1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–5
(page 37-24). NOTE: If bleeding rear brake,
be installed if the existing hose is too short or there are
make sure front brake is safe from oil spilling
leaks in the hose. The existing hose should be shortened from rear-brake lever!
at the brake lever if it is too long. 2. [ ] Use 10mm box-end wrench to depress pis-
1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–5 tons fully into cylinders.
(page 37-24).
37 – 25
37 – DISC BRAKES
3. [ ] Wedge stack of feeler gauges or other spac- 20. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever multiple
ers into rotor slot to keep pistons from mov- times to allow pad clearance to self-adjust,
ing back out during bleeding process. then squeeze lever firmly to check for any
4. [ ] Position handlebars or brake lever so reser- remaining softness that indicates air is still in
voir cover on brake lever is exactly parallel line and bleed procedure should be repeated.
with ground. 21. [ ] Return brake lever to normal position if it
5. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove bolts from res- was moved for bleed procedure, then secure
ervoir cover. bolts to 35in-lbs.
NOTE: Wear protective eye wear and rubber
gloves while working with brake fluids!
6. [ ] Remove cover and diaphragm. CLOSED 2 FILLING AND BLEEDING
7. [ ] Remove rubber cover from bleed valve on Bleeding should be done anytime the hose is separated
caliper. from the caliper or brake lever or anytime the brake develops
8. [ ] Attach waste line to bleed valve and dangle a spongy, soft feel. Hope recommends flushing the system
free end into empty waste receptacle. every four years for normal use or annually for heavy, extreme,
NOTE: At no time should this end of waste or downhill use.
line become submerged in fluid.
The only tools and supplies required for bleeding the
9. [ ] Fill reservoir with new fluid.
10. [ ] Press slowly on brake lever until resistance
system are a foot-long section of 1/4" I.D. clear vinyl tubing
is felt, then maintain resistance through next and a container of DOT 5 brake fluid. Mineral oil cannot
step. NOTE: If lever is closed too rapidly, be used under any circumstances. Theoretically, DOT 3 and
fluid will erupt out of reservoir! DOT 4 could be used, but only with all new hose, O-rings,
11. [ ] Use 8mm open-end wrench to open bleed and seals throughout. The caliper and brake lever would also
valve 1/4 turn momentarily (watching for air need to be totally purged of DOT 5 fluid.
bubbles in line), then quickly close valve again. 1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–5
NOTE: If pressure on brake lever was being (page 37-24). NOTE: If bleeding rear brake,
maintained correctly and bleed valve was make sure front brake is safe from oil spilling
opened and closed correctly, lever will move in from rear-brake lever!
toward grip but stop before reaching grip. 2. [ ] Wedge stack of feeler gauges or other spac-
12. [ ] Release brake lever and check fluid level ers into rotor slot to keep pistons from mov-
in reservoir. At no time should reservoir ing back out during bleeding process.
become empty; typically, lever can be 3. [ ] Position handlebars or brake lever so reser-
closed and released 5–6 times before reservoir cover on brake lever is exactly parallel
voir gets too low. with ground.
13. [ ] Repeat steps 10–12 until fluid is passing NOTE: Wear protective eye wear and rubber
continuously through waste line with com- gloves while working with brake fluids!
plete absence of air bubbles. If flushing sys- 4. [ ] Use 26mm wrench to remove cap from
tem of old fluid, also repeat until only clean brake lever.
fluid is seen in waste line. 5. [ ] Unthread cap from reservoir piston (hold pis-
14. [ ] With rag or oil-absorbent material positioned ton and turn cap clockwise).
to catch overflow from reservoir, fill reser- 6. [ ] Remove rubber cover from bleed valve on
voir to top edge. caliper.
15. [ ] Place diaphragm over top of reservoir, allow- 7. [ ] Attach waste line to bleed valve and dangle
ing oil to overflow. free end into empty waste receptacle.
16. [ ] Place cover over diaphragm, then install NOTE: At no time should this end of waste
cover screws (gently snug—do not over- line become submerged in fluid.
tighten). 8. [ ] Fill reservoir with new fluid.
17. [ ] Thoroughly clean brake lever, hose, caliper, 9. [ ] Press slowly on brake lever until resistance
and accidental-spill locations of all brake fluid. is felt, then maintain resistance through next
18. [ ] Remove waste line from bleed valve, then step. NOTE: If lever is closed too rapidly,
install rubber cover on valve. fluid will erupt out of reservoir!
19. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 6–13
(page 37-25).
37 – 26
37 – DISC BRAKES
10. [ ] Use 8mm open-end wrench to open bleed person is needed in step 10 to operate a
valve 1/4 turn momentarily (watching for air bicycle pump.
bubbles in line), then quickly close valve again. 1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–5
NOTE: If pressure on brake lever was being (page 37-24).
maintained correctly and bleed valve was 2. [ ] Perform steps 2–4 of INSTALLING AND SIZING
opened and closed correctly, lever will move in HOSE procedure (page 37-25), then fix free
toward grip but stop before reaching grip. end of hose in position slightly higher than
11. [ ] Release brake lever and check fluid level brake lever to reduce fluid loss.
in reservoir. At no time should reservoir 3. [ ] Closed 2 only: Use 5mm hex key to break
become empty; typically, lever can be loose caliper-half bolts (hex-socket bolts in
closed and released 5–6 times before reser- outer face of caliper).
voir gets too low. Mini/M4 only: Use 4mm hex key to break
12. [ ] Repeat steps 9–11 until fluid is passing con- loose caliper-half bolts (hex-socket bolts in
tinuously through waste line with complete inner face of caliper).
absence of air bubbles. If flushing system of 4. [ ] Remove caliper from fork or frame. Reinstall
old fluid, also repeat until only clean fluid is shims and bolts to caliper so as not to lose
seen in waste line. track of shim spacing.
13. [ ] With rag or oil-absorbent material positioned 5. [ ] Remove caliper-half bolts from caliper, then
to catch overflow from reservoir, fill reser- separate caliper halves. NOTE: Watch for
voir to top edge. O-ring trapped between caliper halves.
14. [ ] Place reservoir piston (large-end up) into top of 6. [ ] Closed 2 only: Use pin spanner to unthread
reservoir, pressing in gently until piston O-ring pistons to their limit (do not force).
is fully inside reservoir (allow oil to overflow). 7. [ ] Open bleed valve 1/2 turn, then place
15. [ ] Thread shaft inside reservoir cap into hole in presta-valve air pump over bleed valve.
piston, just until end of cap reaches reservoir. 8. [ ] Cover transfer hole (oil passage between
16. [ ] Press down gently on cap while turning cap caliper halves) with thumb. Enclose caliper
clockwise to engage threads on reservoir, half in rag to prevent piston(s) from shooting
then secure cap to 20in-lbs. out uncontrollably.
17. [ ] Turn travel adjuster on top of cap fully coun- 9. [ ] M4 only: Position fingers of one hand over
terclockwise. both pistons to feel progress of removal. In
18. [ ] Open bleed valve 1/4 turn momentarily to step 10, if one piston is coming out faster
allow pistons to retract. If pistons do not than other, apply resistance with finger so
retract automatically, use box end of 10mm pistons will come out simultaneously.
combination wrench to depress pistons. 10. [ ] Operate pump slowly to force piston(s) out
19. [ ] Thoroughly clean brake lever, hose, caliper, of caliper half.
and accidental-spill locations of all brake fluid. 11. [ ] To remove piston in other caliper half,
20. [ ] Remove waste line from bleed valve, then repeat steps 7–10, but attach rubber-tipped
install rubber cover on valve. compressed-air blow gun to hose fitting.
21. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 6–14 12. [ ] Use soft pick to remove seals from cylinders.
(page 37-25). 13. [ ] Clean all parts thoroughly with isopropyl
22. [ ] Adjust travel-adjust knob on brake lever to alcohol, then dry completely.
achieve acceptable lever travel. 14. [ ] Lubricate new piston seals with DOT 5
23. [ ] Squeeze brake lever firmly to check for any brake fluid, then carefully seat seals in
remaining softness that indicates air is still in grooves inside cylinders.
line and bleed procedure should be repeated. 15. [ ] Mini/M4 only: Lubricate pistons with DOT 5
24. [ ] Return brake lever to normal position if it brake fluid, then seat pistons into cylinders
was moved for bleed procedure, then secure (flat-face first).
bolts to 35in-lbs. Closed 2 only: Lubricate pistons with DOT
5 brake fluid, then seat pistons into cylinders
(threaded-hole-face first).
CALIPER OVERHAUL 16. [ ] Closed 2 only: When threaded portion of
Caliper overhaul is done if piston seals are leaking oil piston reaches thread, screw piston in and
or if changing the inner caliper half to convert the caliper secure with pin spanner (approximately
to fit a different frame or fork. The following procedure 20in-lbs torque).
applies to Closed 2, Mini, and M4 models. 17. [ ] Place new O-ring in groove in face of caliper
NOTE: The following procedure will require more (where oil port connects two caliper halves),
hands than one mechanic possesses. A second then assemble caliper halves together.
37 – 27
37 – DISC BRAKES
18. [ ] Treat caliper-half bolts with Loctite 290, 3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and
then install bolts through one caliper half rotational position, then secure mounting
and thread fully into other caliper half. bolts to 35in-lbs.
19. [ ] Remove caliper bolts and shims from outer 4. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw
caliper half. Treat bolt threads with Loctite (at lever pivot) to middle of range (approxi-
242, then reinstall caliper and shims to mately two turns from either end of range).
mounts, securing bolts to 70in-lbs. NOTE: Reach adjustment doesn't affect
20. [ ] Secure caliper-half bolts to 70in-lbs. clearance adjustment or brake operation.
21. [ ] Gently secure bleed valve. This adjustment is only to make reach
22. [ ] Perform steps 9–13 of INSTALLING AND SIZ- appropriate for average-sized hands.
ING HOSE procedure (page 37-25), including
steps that refer to bleeding procedure for Caliper installation and adjustment
type of caliper being overhauled. The caliper assembly consists of two basic parts; the
caliper mount and the caliper. The caliper mount has two
threaded holes into which the bolts that go through the
frame or fork mounting holes are threaded. There is a
MAGURA DISC BRAKES: smooth stud fixed to the caliper mount that goes through
a hole in the caliper and a smooth stud fixed to the caliper
GUSTAV M that goes through a hole in the caliper mount.
This section specifically covers the Magura Gustav There are several models of caliper mounts available.
M disc-brake system. The procedures covered in this sec- A bolt threaded into the end of the smooth stud fixed to
tion include lever installation, hose installation, filling and the caliper mount retains the caliper to the mount. This
bleeding the system, caliper installation, and pad replace- bolt can be removed to separate the two. It should be
ment. This section does not cover rebuilding the caliper, reinstalled with Loctite 222 and torqued to 26in-lbs.
which Magura does not support. The caliper mount floats side to side on the two
smooth studs. This floating design allows the caliper to
move laterally to accommodate rotor wobble. Observe that
TOOLS there is a slot in the caliper mount that coincides with the
No special tools are required for normal installation slot between the two brake pads in the caliper.
and adjustment. Hose replacement and bleeding and filling The Gustav M brake has no adjustments for pad
the system require a syringe, a bleed fitting, a hose, and a clearance. It is not problematic if it rubs lightly at times,
tool for holding the hose when installing the barbed fitting, similar to motorcycle and automotive disc brakes.
all of which are part of the Gustav Service Kit. NOTE: For frames or forks with Hayes-type post
mounting (bolt holes aligned parallel to bike,
BRAKE INSTALLATION rather than perpendicular to bike), an adapter
plate must be mounted first. Install adapter
The following procedure is used to install a new and secure bolts to 55–70in-lbs.
brake (includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which are pre- 5. [ ] Remove plastic pad spacer (if any) from
assembled, filled, and bled. If the hose needs to be sized, between brake pads, then slide caliper over
it is preferable to first install the brake with this procedure, rotor and align bolt holes in caliper with
then perform the hose-sizing procedure. If the hose is mounting holes of fork or frame.
too short to reach the brake lever without being kinked, 6. [ ] If caliper-mounting bolts are being reused,
temporarily compromise the brake lever and handlebar treat threads with Loctite 242 (not needed
positions until completion of this procedure. for first-time installation).
7. [ ] Install and gently snug caliper-mounting
Rotor, wheel, and brake-lever installation bolts. Check clearance between rotor and
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION slot in caliper mount. Rotor should be cen-
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see tered in slot. If rotor is closer to inside edge
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel of slot, adjust clearance by remounting cali-
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure per with .2mm shim washer between caliper
(page 37-5). and each fork/frame mount, then check cen-
2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from tering again.
handlebar. 8. [ ] Once centering is adequate, secure caliper-
mounting bolts to 50in-lbs.
37 – 28
37 – DISC BRAKES
9. [ ] Secure hose to frame and/or fork, then the distance between the ears. If the measurement is
turn handlebars and/or move suspension 4.8mm or less, the pads must be replaced. With fresh
through its full range to check for interfer- pads in the caliper, this measurement is about 6.8mm.
ence with hose. Remaining pad life can be estimated by calculating the
reduction of the current measurement from the original
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 6.8mm as a percentage of the 2mm of total wear life.
In other words, if the current measurement is 5.8mm
The pads have “ears” at the end of the caliper
opposite the hose. A shaft goes through the ears, (1mm reduction from 6.8mm), then the pads have 50%
which retains the pads in the caliper. With the brake of their life remaining (1mm is 50% of 2mm).
1. [ ] Remove wheel, then unthread bolt through
operated, to close the pads firmly to the rotor, measure
ends of pad plates with 2mm hex key.
Magura disc-tube (unfinished end)

Cover bolts
Plastic cover
Reservoir cover
Membrane
Olive
Sleeve nut
Reservoir
Barb fitting
Master cylinder
Magura disc-tube
Caliper mount (prefit end)
Banjo
assembly
Rotor slot
Magura disc-tube
(“straight-in” prefit end)
Caliper
Bleed screw
Pad
retaining
bolt Caliper
.2mm shim retaining bolt
Pad washer*
Four-prong spring
*Amount varies to cen-
ter caliper-mount rotor
Pad slot to rotor
Frame/fork mount
(not part of brake)
37.2 Magura Gustav M caliper and brake lever.
37 – 29
37 – DISC BRAKES
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be 3. [ ] Only if replacing hose, install bolt (with new
touched with fingers or contaminated with washer) through banjo fitting (or thread in
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- hex fitting built into end of hose) and secure
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and to 35in-lbs. NOTE: Use only hoses marked
reinstalled without being contaminated. “Magura disc-tube.”
2. [ ] Remove pads and 4-prong spring out rotor 4. [ ] Route hose to lever and decide on appropri-
slot in inner edge of caliper. ate length. Use hose cutter or sharp razor
3. [ ] Clean inside caliper at piston with water knife to trim hose to desired length. End
and detergent on brush. NOTE: Don't use should be cut as square as possible.
automotive brake cleaners, as seal damage 5. [ ] Place plastic fitting cover (small-end first),
will occur! sleeve nut (hex-end first), then new Magura
4. [ ] Assemble replacement pads and 4-prong olive fitting (black, never brass) onto cut end
spring so braking-material sides face each of hose.
other and spring is sandwiched between 6. [ ] Press hose into slot in red tool (part of ser-
them, with prongs contacting metal plates vice kit) so approximately 20mm of hose
(not contacting surface of braking material). extends past tool, then insert new barbed
When properly assembled, tips of spring fitting into hose until fitting head contacts
prongs point to edge of pads from which hose. If installation is difficult, sandwich red
pad ears extend. tool and hose in soft jaws of vise and tap
5. [ ] Install pad assembly into caliper slot so barbed fitting in with plastic mallet.
closed end of spring goes in first and ear 7. [ ] Insert end of hose into hole in brake lever,
ends of pads are at end of caliper opposite then hand-thread sleeve nut into brake lever.
from where hydraulic hose attaches. 8. [ ] After installing sleeve nut as far as possible
6. [ ] Treat pad-retaining-bolt threads with Loctite by hand, secure nut to 35in-lbs.
222. 9. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure imme-
7. [ ] Install pad-retaining bolt through hole in diately following.
inner face of caliper and through holes in
ears of pads, then secure bolt to 9in-lbs.
8. [ ] Face back side of caliper, put your thumbs FILLING AND BLEEDING
into access holes on back face of caliper, Filling and bleeding are normally done as part of hose
then press firmly against inner brake pad. replacement or sizing. Magura does not recommend filling
This causes slave pistons to retract fully and bleeding as routine maintenance.
into caliper, which allows adequate clear- NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit-
ance for the rotor. ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads!
9. [ ] Install wheel. 1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike.
2. [ ] Remove both brake pads.
INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 3. [ ] Put bike in position so that head of bleed
screw (at opposite end of caliper from hose)
If the caliper hose is damaged, too short, or too long, is at top of caliper.
then it is necessary to install a new hose or re-size the exist- 4. [ ] Remove bleed screw with 5mm hex key.
ing hose. The same procedure suffices for both. A hose is NOTE: Brake fluid must be Magura Blood or other
too short if it must bend sharply at any time. A hose is too 5wt mineral oil (suspension fluids). Under no
long only if it interferes with other components or snags conditions use DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5 fluids!
on things during use of the bicycle. Performance of the Magura Blood is preferred over other mineral
brake system is not affected by hose length. oils unless filling a completely dry system (not
1. [ ] Slide plastic sleeve on lever-end of hose all mineral oils mix well).
away from brake lever, then unthread 8mm 5. [ ] If necessary, attach hose and 6mm-thread
hose fitting from brake lever. It may be nec- bleed fitting to syringe, then fill syringe with
essary to remove brake lever from handlebar oil. With syringe upright, pump until all air
if hose twists with fitting. bubbles are out of syringe and bleed hose.
2. [ ] Only if replacing hose, unthread bolt through 6. [ ] Thread bleed fitting into caliper where bleed
banjo fitting (or hex-fitting built into end of screw was removed and gently secure fitting.
hose) at brake caliper. 7. [ ] Position bike and/or brake lever so that
reservoir cap on face of brake lever is com-
pletely horizontal.
37 – 30
37 – DISC BRAKES
8. [ ] Use T7 Torx wrench to remove 4 bolts that
retain reservoir cap, then remove cap and
BRAKE INSTALLATION
rubber membrane. The following procedure is used to install a new
9. [ ] Slowly pump syringe contents into system, brake (includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which are pre-
being prepared to catch overflow at lever. assembled, filled, and bled. If the hose needs to be sized,
Continue pumping until no air bubbles are it is preferable to first install the brake with this procedure,
seen in reservoir. then perform the hose-sizing procedure. If the hose is
10. [ ] Place rubber membrane into bottom face of too short to reach the brake lever without being kinked,
reservoir cap, then insert four bolts into res- temporarily compromise the brake lever and handlebar
ervoir cap. positions until completion of this procedure.
11. [ ] Place reservoir-cap assembly on top of lever
so that overflow hole in edge of reservoir Rotor, wheel, and brake-lever installation
cap will be at top edge of cap when brake 1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
lever is in normal position. procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
12. [ ] Gradually tighten 4 bolts in crisscross pattern ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
until all are tight to equivalent of 5in-lbs. in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
13. [ ] Return bike to position that puts caliper in (page 37-5).
same position as when bleed screw was 2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
removed, then unthread bleed fitting from handlebar.
caliper. 3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
14. [ ] Install bleed screw into caliper and secure to tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
51in-lbs. 35in-lbs.
15. [ ] Clean caliper of any oil, then install brake 4. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw
pads and wheel. (at lever pivot) to middle of range (approxi-
16. [ ] Operate brake and check for soft or spongy mately two turns from either end of range).
feel and leaks at hose fittings and bleed NOTE: Reach adjustment does not affect
screw. Repeat bleeding procedure if brake clearance adjustment or brake operation.
feels soft or spongy. This adjustment is only intended to make
reach appropriate for average-sized hands.
Caliper installation and adjustment
MAGURA DISC BRAKES: NOTE: For frames or forks with Hayes-type post
mounting (bolt holes aligned parallel to bike,
SINGLE-PISTON MODELS rather than perpendicular to bike), an adapter

plate must be mounted first. Install adapter
This section specifically covers the Magura Louise and secure bolts to 55–70in-lbs.
and Clara single-piston disc brakes. These same models 5. [ ] Loosen volume-adjusting bolt on outer face
made in 2002 and 2003 are dual-piston brakes, which are of caliper fully with 5mm hex key.
covered in MAGURA DISC BRAKES: DUAL-PISTON MOD- 6. [ ] Remove fixed-pad adjusting plate from
ELS (page 37-34). The single-piston models covered in inside face of caliper with 5mm hex key,
this section have hex-socket pad adjusters in both faces treat threads with Loctite 242, then install
plate until face is just flush with inner face
of the caliper. Service techniques are identical for both
of caliper.
systems. The procedures covered in this section include 7. [ ] Remove plastic pad spacer (if any) from
lever installation, hose installation, filling and bleeding the between brake pads, then slide caliper over
system, caliper installation, and pad replacement. This sec- rotor and align bolt holes in caliper with
tion does not cover rebuilding the caliper, which Magura holes in mounts.
does not support. 8. [ ] If caliper-mounting bolts are being reused,
treat threads with Loctite 242 (not needed
for first-time installation).
TOOLS 9. [ ] Install and gently snug caliper-mounting
No special tools are required for normal instal- bolts. Check clearance between rotor and
lation and adjustment. Hose replacement and bleeding inner edge of caliper slot (spin rotor). If
and filling the system require a syringe, a bleed fitting, there is contact, remount caliper with .2mm
hose, and a tool for holding the hose when installing the shim washer between caliper and each I.S.
barbed fitting (the “red tool”), all of which are part of mount (or post-adapter bracket) and check
for rub again.
the Louise Service Kit.
37 – 31
37 – DISC BRAKES
10. [ ] Once clearance is adequate, secure caliper- 12. [ ] With wheel spinning, slowly tighten volume-
mounting bolts to 50in-lbs. NOTE: While adjusting bolt on outer face until slight rub is
tightening bolts, firmly cock caliper in direc- heard, then loosen bolt just enough to elim-
tion it will move with brake loads! inate rub.
11. [ ] With wheel stationary, turn fixed-pad 13. [ ] Operate brake several times, then spin wheel
adjusting plate on inner face of caliper clock- to check for rub. If rub persists, only the
wise just until gap between pad and rotor volume-adjusting bolt needs to be loosened.
disappears, then loosen just enough to see 14. [ ] Secure hose(s) to frame and/or fork, then
gap again. Spin wheel and check for rub. turn handlebars and/or move suspension
If rub occurs, loosen adjusting plate a tiny through its full range to check for interfer-
amount and check again. ence with hose(s).
Cover bolts
Reservoir cover
Membrane
Reservoir
Barb fitting
Lever body Sleeve nut
(master cylinder)
Olive
Fixed-pad Magura disc-tube
adjusting plate Plastic cover
Ear (prefit end)
Magura disc-tube
Ear (unfinished end)
Pads Volume adjuster
Bleed screw
.2mm shim washer (quantity

Caliper varies for caliper alignment)
(slave cylinder)
.2mm shim washer Caliper-mounting bolt

(quantity varies for
caliper alignment) Caliper-mounting bolt
37.3 Magura single-piston caliper and brake lever. Some models have a single screw through the center of the res-
ervoir cover.
37 – 32
37 – DISC BRAKES
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 1. [ ] Fully loosen volume-adjusting bolt in outer

face of caliper with 5mm hex key.
The pads have “ears,” which protrude out a small slot 2. [ ] Slide plastic sleeve on lever-end of hose
in the outer edge of the caliper (opposite the slot for the away from brake lever, then unthread 8mm
rotor). With the brake operated, to close the pads firmly hose fitting from brake lever. It may be nec-
to the rotor, measure the distance between the ears. essary to remove brake lever from handlebar
1. [ ] Compress brake lever, then use inside-width if hose twists with fitting.
jaws of caliper to measure distance between 3. [ ] Only if replacing hose, unthread hose fitting
pad ears (in access hole in outer edge of from brake caliper.
caliper). Compare measurement to values in 4. [ ] Only if replacing hose, thread end of hose
table 37-8 to determine remaining pad life. with pre-installed fitting into caliper and
MAGURA PAD WEAR (table 37-8) secure to 35in-lbs. NOTE: Use only hoses
marked “Magura disc-tube.”
Pad-ear clearance Remaining life 5. [ ] Route hose to lever and decide on appropri-
6.50mm 100% ate length. Use hose cutter or sharp razor
5.88mm 75% knife to trim hose to desired length. End
5.25mm 50% should be cut as square as possible.
6. [ ] Place plastic fitting cover (small-end first),
4.63mm 25% sleeve nut (hex-end first), then new Magura
4.00mm Replace immediately! olive fitting (black, never brass) onto cut
2. [ ] Remove wheel, then unthread fixed-pad end of hose.
adjusting plate from inner face of caliper. 7. [ ] Press hose into slot in red tool so approxi-
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be mately 20mm of hose extends past tool,
touched with fingers or contaminated with then insert new barbed fitting into hose until
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- fitting head contacts hose. If installation is
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and difficult, sandwich red tool and hose in soft
reinstalled without being contaminated. jaws of vise and tap barbed fitting in with
3. [ ] Pull both pads out hole where adjusting plate plastic mallet.
was removed. A magnet can be used. 8. [ ] Insert end of hose into hole in brake lever,
4. [ ] Clean inside of caliper (in vicinity of piston) then hand-thread sleeve nut into brake lever.
with water and detergent on brush. NOTE: 9. [ ] After installing sleeve nut as far as possible
Do not use automotive brake cleaners! Seal by hand, secure nut to 35in-lbs.
damage will occur! 10. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure.
5. [ ] Install first pad so braking material faces
you and the pad “ear” goes out slot in outer
edge of caliper.
FILLING AND BLEEDING
6. [ ] Install second pad so braking material faces Filling and bleeding are normally done as part of hose
away from you and pad “ear” goes out slot replacement or sizing. Magura does not recommend filling
in outer edge of caliper. and bleeding as routine maintenance.
7. [ ] Loosen volume-adjusting bolt on outer face NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit-
of caliper fully with a 5mm hex key. ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads!
8. [ ] Treat threads of fixed-pad adjusting plate 1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike.
with Loctite 242, then install plate until face 2. [ ] Remove fixed-pad adjusting plate from inner
is just flush with inner face of caliper. face of caliper, then remove both brake pads.
9. [ ] Install wheel, then perform steps 11–13 of 3. [ ] Put bike in position so that outer face of cal-
Caliper installation and adjustment (page 37-32). iper is pointing straight up.
4. [ ] Loosen volume-adjusting bolt in outer face
of caliper fully with 5mm hex key.
INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE 5. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove bleed screw
If the caliper hose is damaged, too short, or too long, from center of volume-adjusting bolt.
then it is necessary to install a new hose or re-size the exist- NOTE: Brake fluid must be Magura Blood or other
ing hose. The same procedure suffices for both. A hose is 5wt mineral oil (suspension fluids). Under no
conditions use DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5 fluids!
too short if it must bend sharply at any time. A hose is too
Magura Blood is preferred over other mineral
long only if it interferes with other components or snags
oils unless filling a completely dry system (not
on things during use of the bicycle. Performance of the all mineral oils mix well).
brake system is not affected by hose length.
37 – 33
37 – DISC BRAKES
6. [ ] If necessary, attach hose and bleed fitting
to syringe, then fill syringe with fluid. With
TOOLS
syringe upright, pump until all air bubbles are No special tools are required for normal instal-
out of syringe and bleed hose. lation and adjustment. Hose replacement and bleeding
7. [ ] Thread bleed fitting into caliper where bleed and filling the system require a syringe, a bleed fitting,
screw was removed. hose, and a tool for holding the hose when installing the
8. [ ] Position bike and/or brake lever so that barbed fitting (the “red tool”), all of which are part of
reservoir cap on face of brake lever is com- the Magura Bleed Kit (#0721 294).
pletely horizontal.
9. [ ] Use 2mm hex key (T7 Torx wrench for
Clara model) to remove 4 bolts that retain BRAKE INSTALLATION
reservoir cap, then remove cap and rubber The following procedure is used to install a new
membrane. NOTE: Several models have oval brake (includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which is pre-
cap with single T7 Torx bolt in center. assembled, filled, and bled. If the hose needs to be sized,
10. [ ] Slowly pump syringe contents into system,
it is preferable to first install the brake with this proce-
being prepared to catch overflow at lever.
dure, then perform the hose-sizing procedure. If hose is
Continue pumping until no air bubbles are
seen in reservoir. too short to reach brake the lever without being kinked,
11. [ ] Place rubber membrane in bottom face of temporarily compromise the brake lever and handlebar
reservoir cap, then insert 4 bolts into res- positions until completion of this procedure.
ervoir cap (oval cap has single bolt). 1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
12. [ ] Place reservoir-cap assembly on top of lever procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
so that overflow hole in edge of reservoir ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
cap will be at top edge of cap when brake in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
lever is in normal position. (page 37-5).
13. [ ] Rectangular cap: Gradually tighten 4 bolts in 2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
crisscross pattern until all are tight to equiva- handlebar.
lent of 5in-lbs. 3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
Oval cap: Tighten bolt to 5in-lbs. tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
14. [ ] Return bike to position that puts face of cal- 35in-lbs.
iper pointing up, then unthread bleed fitting 4. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw
from caliper. (at lever pivot) to middle of range (approxi-
15. [ ] Install bleed screw into caliper and secure to mately two turns from either end of range).
8in-lbs. NOTE: Reach adjustment does not affect
16. [ ] Install wheel, then install pads and clearance adjustment or brake operation.
adjust clearance as per steps 3–8 of PAD This adjustment is only intended to make
REPLACEMENT ONLY (page 37-33). reach appropriate for average-sized hands.
17. [ ] Operate brake and check for soft or spongy Depending on the model and year, the caliper attaches
feel and leaks at hose fittings and bleed to the frame or fork by one of three different methods.
screw. Repeat bleeding procedure if brake Calipers are made to mount directly to I.S. mounts (I.S.
feels soft or spongy. direct), directly to post mounts (post direct), or to I.S.
mounts by means of an adapter bracket (I.S. bracket).
5. [ ] Remove any pre-installed mounting bolts
MAGURA DISC BRAKES:

from caliper and bracket (if any), then treat
all bolt threads with Loctite 242.
DUAL-PISTON MODELS
6. [ ] I.S. bracket only: Place bracket inside of I.S.
mounts, install bolts through mounts and into
This section covers the 2001 Julie and the 2002–2003 bracket, then secure bolts to 51in-lbs. NOTE:
Clara, Julie, Louise, and Marta models. These models have Firmly cock bracket in direction it will move
no hex-socket fittings in the caliper faces for pad adjust- with brake loads while tightening bolts!
7. [ ] All except I.S. direct: Install bolts through
ment, as is the case with Louise and Clara single-piston
caliper holes into post holes or bracket holes
models (see MAGURA DISC BRAKES: SINGLE-PISTON just until caliper can still move side to side.
MODELS, page 37-31). 8. [ ] All except I.S. direct: Squeeze brake lever so
pads are pressing firmly against rotor, then
secure bolts to 51in-lbs.
37 – 34
37 – DISC BRAKES
9. [ ] I.S. direct only: Place caliper over rotor and 5. [ ] Clean measuring-caliper jaws of any oil or
behind I.S. mounts, then squeeze brake lever grease with zero-residue solvent (such as
so pads are pressing firmly against rotor. alcohol), then measure pad thickness, includ-
Inspect gap between mounts and caliper to ing backing plate (see table 37-9 for wear
estimate shim needs. NOTE: Shim washers tolerances). NOTE: If pad appears to be worn
(.2mm) are used to fine tune caliper posi- irregularly, measure at thinnest point.
tion. Some rear calipers require 1mm spacer MAGURA PAD WEAR (table 37-9)
between mounts and caliper in addition to
the few shims normally used to align caliper. Overall thickness Remaining life
10. [ ] Release brake lever, then place shims total- 3.90mm 100%
ling approximately .2mm less than gaps 3.55mm 75%
observed in step 9 between each mount and
3.20mm 50%
caliper and install bolts through mounts and
into caliper (secure bolts temporarily). 2.85mm 25%
11. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times, 2.50mm Replace immediately
then spin wheel and check for rub between 6. [ ] Assemble pads together so braking surfaces
pads and either face of rotor. are in contact and pads are oriented in mir-
12. [ ] If inner pad rubs: Reinstall caliper with addi- ror image of each other.
tional .2mm shim on each bolt and check 7. [ ] All except Marta: Install pads into rotor slot
for rub again. Repeat this step as necessary and check that holes in pad ears line up with
until rub is eliminated. hole in caliper for split pin. If inner and outer
If outer pad rubs: Reinstall caliper with one pads are reversed, holes will not line up.
less .2mm shim on each bolt and check for Marta only: Install pads into rotor slot so
rub again. Repeat this step as necessary holes in ears line up with hole in caliper for
until rub is eliminated. pad-retaining bolt.
13. [ ] Once rub is minimized, secure bolts to 8. [ ] All except Marta: Install new split pin into
51in-lbs. NOTE: While tightening bolts, outer face of caliper (make sure pin goes
firmly cock caliper in direction it will move through holes in pads), then use pliers to bend
with brake loads! longer end of pin away from shorter end.
Marta only: Treat pad-retaining bolt threads
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY with Loctite 242, then install bolt into outer
face of caliper and through holes in pad
Pads should be replaced when combined thickness of ears. Secure bolt to 9in-lbs.
backing plate and braking material is 2.65mm or less. 9. [ ] If new pads have been installed, press flat
Pads must be removed from these brakes to measure screwdriver against inside face of each pad
wear. Slightly different removal and installation procedures to depress pistons fully into caliper. NOTE:
are required for Marta models. Screwdriver tip must be clean! Use flat face
1. [ ] Remove wheel. of screwdriver, not edge, to press against
2. [ ] All except Marta: Use pliers to unbend end pads so as not to damage pad face!
of split pin protruding from inside face of 10. [ ] Install wheel.
caliper, then pull pin out from other side.
Marta only: Remove bolt in outer face of cal-
iper opposite from hose with 2mm hex key. INSTALLING AND SIZING HOSE
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be If the caliper hose is damaged, too short, or too long,
touched with fingers or contaminated with then it is necessary to install a new hose or re-size the exist-
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- ing hose. The same procedure suffices for both. A hose is
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and too short if it must bend sharply at any time. A hose is too
reinstalled without being contaminated. long only if it interferes with other components or snags
3. [ ] Use finger to pull brake pads out of caliper.
on things during use of the bicycle. Performance of the
4. [ ] Clean inside caliper (in vicinity of pistons)
with water and detergent on brush. Used
pads being reinstalled may be wiped with Wire-mesh-covered hoses cannot be sized. Plastic
clean rag (no dirt, solvents, or lubricants on hoses can be sized. The end of the hose at the caliper is
rag). NOTE: Do not use automotive brake fixed, and the end of the hose at the lever can be sized.
cleaners! Seal and pad damage will occur!
37 – 35
37 – DISC BRAKES
1. [ ] Slide plastic sleeve on lever end of hose 6. [ ] Position handlebars and brake lever so reser-
away from brake lever, then unthread 8mm voir cover is parallel to ground.
hose fitting from brake lever. It may be nec- 7. [ ] Unthread reservoir cover screw(s) with T7
essary to remove brake lever from handlebar Torx key, then pull off reservoir cover and
if hose twists with fitting. separate diaphragm from cover (or from top
2. [ ] Only if replacing hose, unthread hose fitting of reservoir).
from brake caliper. 8. [ ] Assemble hose to bleed fitting with 6mm
3. [ ] Only if replacing hose, thread end of hose thread and install O-ring over thread. Attach
with pre-installed fitting into caliper and other end of hose to syringe.
secure to 35in-lbs. NOTE: Use only hoses NOTE: Brake fluid must be Magura Blood or other
marked “Magura disc-tube.” 5wt mineral oil (suspension fluids). Under no
4. [ ] Route hose to lever and decide on appropri- conditions use DOT 3, DOT 4, or DOT 5 fluids!
ate length. Use hose cutter or sharp razor Magura Blood is preferred over other mineral
knife to trim hose to desired length. End oils unless filling a completely dry system (not
should be cut as square as possible. all mineral oils mix well).
5. [ ] Place plastic fitting cover (small-end first), 9. [ ] Insert bleed fitting into brake fluid, then pull
sleeve nut (hex-end first), then new Magura on syringe plunger until syringe is completely
olive fitting (black, never brass) onto cut full. Turn syringe over to allow air bubbles to
end of hose. rise into hose, then depress plunger until no
6. [ ] All except Julie: Press hose into slot in air remains in hose.
red tool so approximately 20mm of hose 10. [ ] All except Marta: Use 3mm hex key to
extends past tool, then insert new barbed remove bleed screw from to edge of caliper
fitting into hose until fitting head contacts (adjacent to hose).
hose. If installation is difficult, sandwich red Marta only: Use 3mm hex key to remove
tool and hose in soft jaws of vise and tap bleed screw from outer face of caliper.
barbed fitting in with plastic mallet. 11. [ ] Thread bleed fitting on syringe assembly into
7. [ ] Insert end of hose into hole in brake lever, caliper where bleed screw was removed.
then hand-thread sleeve nut into brake lever. 12. [ ] Slowly pump syringe contents into system,
8. [ ] After installing sleeve nut as far as possible being prepared to catch overflow at lever
by hand, secure nut to 35in-lbs. with rag. As opposed to catching overflow,
9. [ ] Perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure imme- consider periodically removing oil from reser-
diately following. voir with second syringe. Continue pumping
until no air bubbles are seen in reservoir.
13. [ ] Place diaphragm in bottom face of reservoir
FILLING AND BLEEDING cap, then insert bolt(s) into reservoir cap.
Filling and bleeding are normally done as part of hose 14. [ ] Place reservoir-cap assembly on top of lever
replacement or sizing. Magura does not recommend filling so that overflow hole in edge of reservoir
and bleeding as routine maintenance. cap will be at top edge of cap when brake
NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit- lever is in normal position.
ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads! 15. [ ] Rectangular cap: Gradually tighten 4 bolts in
1. [ ] Remove wheel from bike. crisscross pattern until all are tight to equiva-
2. [ ] Press flat screwdriver against inside face of lent of 5in-lbs.
each pad to depress pistons fully into caliper. Oval cap: Tighten bolt to 5in-lbs.
NOTE: Screwdriver tip must be clean! Use Marta only: Gradually tighten bolts in alter-
flat face of screwdriver, not edge, to press nating pattern until both are tight to 5in-lbs.
against pads so as not to damage pad face! 16. [ ] Remove syringe assembly.
3. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 2–3 17. [ ] Install bleed screw into caliper and secure to
(page 37-35). 22in-lbs.
4. [ ] Insert thick end of yellow Magura transport 18. [ ] Remove spacer from caliper, then thoroughly
tool between pistons or wedge stack of feeler clean and dry lever, caliper, and oil spills.
gauges tightly between pistons. 19. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 4–10
5. [ ] All except Marta: Position bike so that (page 37-35).
line through bolts that hold caliper halves 20. [ ] Operate brake and check for soft or spongy
together is parallel to ground. feel and leaks at hose fittings and bleed
Marta only: Position bike so that hose enter- screw. Repeat bleeding procedure if brake
ing caliper is exactly vertical. feels soft or spongy.
37 – 36
37 – DISC BRAKES
SHIMANO DISC BRAKES: 7. [ ] Install bracket bolts with washers, then

torque bolts to 70in-lbs. NOTE: While tight-
MECHANICAL MODELS ening bolts, firmly cock caliper in direction it

will move with brake loads!
All Shimano mechanical disc brakes require the same Some versions of this brake have a safety-wire mecha-
service procedures, regardless of model name. Models nism to secure the bracket bolts. Other versions utilize
covered by this procedure include Deore and Nexave plastic clips as secondary locks for the bracket bolts. If
brakes, but both model names are also used on dual- there are holes through the sides of the bolts, use the
piston hydraulic brakes. safety wire version of the following steps. If the bolt
Requirements heads have deep serrations, use the safety clip version of
The caliper attaches directly to I.S. mounts by means step #8, then skip to step #12. Figure 37.4 (page 37-45)
of an adapter bracket. The adapter bracket would need to includes a diagram that shows how the safety wire appears
be removed to install the brake to post mounts. Doing so when correctly installed by steps #8 – #12.
8. [ ] Safety clips only: Snap clips over bolt heads
would require changing the caliper bolts and eliminating
so prongs are immediately clockwise of
a safety clip on the end of one of the caliper bolts, which
mount eye.
may void the warranty and create a liability exposure. This Safety wire only: Feed 6" safety wire half-
cable-operated disc brake requires a low-leverage brake way through upper mounting-bolt head, wrap
lever of the type used with linear-pull rim brakes. one end clockwise around bolt head to meet
other end, then twist ends together tightly
Terminology with pliers until twisted section is approxi-
Bracket bolt: Retains adapter bracket to I.S. mately 50mm long.
mounts. 9. [ ] Safety wire only: Wrap twisted pair clock-
Caliper bolt: Retains caliper directly to adapter wise around bolt head less than one full
bracket that attaches to I.S. mounts. turn, then pull wire to second bolt head
Caliper-mounting tab: A part of the caliper body so that it approaches second bolt head on
that protrudes from the caliper and through which the opposite side from where it left first bolt
caliper bolts are inserted to attach the caliper to the adapter head (wire goes on diagonal line from first
brackets or to the post mounts. bolt to second bolt). Insert one wire end
Pad adjuster: Large, flat hex-socket bolt on inner face through first wire hole in bolt head, then out
second wire hole.
of caliper body that is used to adjust position of inner pad.
10. [ ] Safety wire only: Wrap remaining wire end
counterclockwise around second bolt until
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND it reaches point first wire end comes out of
second bolt, then tightly twist ends together.
ADJUSTMENT 11. [ ] Safety wire only: Hook second twist around
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION section of twisted wire between bolts so
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see that loose end cannot get tangled in brake
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel mechanism.
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure 12. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully clockwise (rotor
(page 37-5). should be fully immobile).
2. [ ] Remove bracket-mounting bolts from 13. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster counterclockwise
bracket (if installed) and treat threads with 2/6 turn (track flats or corners on hex key).
Loctite 242. 14. [ ] Attach brake cable to brake lever, then
3. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully counterclockwise. thread adjusting barrel out 6 full turns.
4. [ ] Loosen caliper bolts and treat with 15. [ ] Thread caliper adjusting barrel out 3 full turns.
Loctite 242. NOTE: One caliper bolt has a 16. [ ] Oil caliper pinch-mechanism threads.
safety-retaining clip at bottom end of bolt. 17. [ ] Install wire through adjusting barrel on cali-
Unthreading bolt too far will cause clip to fail! per and through pinch mechanism.
5. [ ] Thread caliper bolts in fully, but do not 18. [ ] Use 4th-hand tool to pull slack from wire,
tighten (caliper should still move side to side then secure pinch mechanism to 70in-lbs
on bracket). (rotor should be fully immobilized).
6. [ ] Place caliper over rotor, with bracket behind 19. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever with normal
I.S. mounts. braking force to test cable seating and secu-
rity. Check if rotor is still immobilized and
repeat slack-removal step if not.
37 – 37
37 – DISC BRAKES
20. [ ] Secure caliper bolts to 70in-lbs.
21. [ ] Safety clips only: Snap clip over bolt head
CALIPER OVERHAUL
closest to adjusting barrel so prong is imme- If the brake feels sluggish, stiff to operate, or the
diately clockwise of adapter bracket. pads fail to release from the rotor when the brake lever is
22. [ ] Turn both adjusting barrels fully clockwise. released, the cable or the caliper may need service. Cable
23. [ ] Turn inner-pad adjuster fully counterclockwise. service is the same as all cable-operated brakes. Always
24. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster two detents clock- check the cable condition before servicing the caliper. The
wise (about 1/3 turn), then remove hex key. caliper has delicate internals that can become congested
(b) Operate brake. with dirt or become sluggish from loss of lubrication. The
(c) Spin wheel and check for rub. caliper can be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated with
(d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is created.
the following procedure.
25. [ ] (a) Turn inner-pad adjuster one detent coun-
terclockwise, then remove hex key.
2. [ ] Position frame/fork so inside face of caliper
(b) Operate brake.
faces up.
(c) Spin wheel and check for rub.
3. [ ] Remove clip from end of caliper-retaining bolt.
(d) Repeat a, b, c steps until rub is eliminated.
4. [ ] Remove caliper-half bolts and inner caliper
26. [ ] Squeeze brake lever until pads just contact
half.
rotor, then measure lever-to-grip clearance.
5. [ ] Remove pads and spring from pad-retaining
If necessary, use adjusting barrels to main-
bolt.
tain minimum clearance of 25mm.
6. [ ] Remove circlip from outer caliper half.
27. [ ] Trim inner wire to length that it cannot reach
7. [ ] Remove keyed plate from outer caliper half.
to nearest point on rotor slot, then solder
8. [ ] Remove spiral spring.
and cap wire.
9. [ ] Remove inner ball ramp (hex-shaped stud)
from outer caliper half.
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 10. [ ] Use magnet to remove 3 ball bearings.
11. [ ] Move bike to normal upright position.
1. [ ] Remove wheel, then remove clip from end
of caliper-retaining bolt. 12. [ ] Use #0 Phillips screwdriver to remove cover
2. [ ] Remove caliper bolt. plate on outer face of caliper (watch for
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be locking washer below plate).
touched with fingers or contaminated with 13. [ ] Use 10mm wrench to remove nut and
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- washer on outer face of caliper arm.
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and 14. [ ] Remove caliper arm, spring, and brass
reinstalled without being contaminated. washer from outer face of caliper. Remove
3. [ ] Remove pads and spring from rotor slot. outer ball ramp from inner face of caliper.
4. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge 15. [ ] Clean parts (except pads) and inside of caliper
end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue with solvent, then dry all parts thoroughly.
solvent (such as alcohol), then measure In several of the following assembly steps, caliper
braking-material thickness with depth gauge parts are greased. The grease must be resistant to high
(see table 37-10 for wear tolerances). temperatures and water. NOTE: Grease should always be
NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly, applied sparingly to avoid any run out at high tempera-
measure at thinnest point. tures! Automotive and marine greases that have sufficient
SHIMANO PAD WEAR (table 37-10) resistance to high temperatures and are specified as highly
water resistant include Lubriplate 1552, Penzoil 707L,
Braking-material thickness Remaining life
Sta-Lube Multi-purpose Marine Grease, and Valvoline
2.00mm 100%
Durablend.
1.65mm 75% 16. [ ] Lightly grease ball ramp with threaded stud
1.25mm 50% (including smooth part of stud), then install
0.90mm 25% (threaded-end first) into inner face of caliper.
17. [ ] Place brass washer over threaded stud, then
<.50mm Replace immediately
place coil spring onto outer face of caliper,
5. [ ] Assemble sandwich of pads and 4-prong engaging spring leg in hole.
pad spring, then insert into rotor slot. 18. [ ] Place caliper arm on top of spring, engag-
6. [ ] Treat pad-retaining-bolt threads with Loctite ing spring in un-threaded hole in caliper arm,
242, then install bolt and gently snug. then seat caliper arm onto splines on ball-
7. [ ] Engage clip into end of pad-retaining bolt. ramp stud.
37 – 38
37 – DISC BRAKES
19. [ ] Treat ball-ramp-stud threads with Loctite
290. Install washer and nut on ball-ramp
TOOLS
stud, then secure nut to 40in-lbs. New brakes come unfilled, with the hose, brake lever,
20. [ ] Place lock washer over nut so tabs contact and rotor separate. Hose replacement and bleeding and
face of caliper arm and oval holes in tabs are filling the system require an oral syringe (not supplied),
over cover-screw holes. a few inches of 1/8"-I.D. clear hose (some supplied with
21. [ ] Install cover and screws. brake but more length is useful), and a tool (#TL-BH61)
22. [ ] Turn bike so inside face of caliper points for holding the hose when installing the barbed fitting
straight up. (the “yellow tool” that is provided with the brake or with
23. [ ] Place lightly greased ball bearings in ramps a replacement hose).
inside caliper.
24. [ ] Place lightly greased inner ball ramp (ramp-
face first) into caliper.
25. [ ] Place lightly greased spiral spring (small-end
ASSEMBLY AND OIL FILLING
The following procedure is used to install a new brake
first) onto piston.
(includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which is unassembled
26. [ ] Place keyed plate (flat-face first) over spi-
and not filled with brake fluid.
ral spring and rotate caliper arm up to 60º
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
clockwise, so that keyed plate seats over
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
piston hex and keyed-plate keys fit into slots
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6).
in caliper body. Then engage circlip to retain
2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
keyed plate.
handlebar.
27. [ ] Assemble sandwich of pads and 4-prong pad
3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
spring, then place onto pad-retaining bolt.
tional position, then gently secure bolt.
28. [ ] Treat caliper-half bolts with Loctite 290.
4. [ ] Remove orange covers from hose holes in
29. [ ] Assemble caliper halves, then thread in
caliper and brake lever.
caliper-half bolts and secure to 80in-lbs.
5. [ ] Type A only: Attach banjo fitting to caliper
30. [ ] Engage clip into end of pad-retaining bolt.
(no O-rings) and gently secure bolt so banjo-
fitting is fixed, pointing in direction from
which hose will approach when it is secured
SHIMANO DISC BRAKES: to frame or fork.

Type B only: Loosely install hose nut into
DUAL-PISTON MODELS caliper, then insert hose into nut (no olive
fitting or torque at this time).
This section covers the 2001–2003 Deore and 6. [ ] Route hose along frame or fork, accounting
Nexave hydraulic disc brakes. There are two different for length change as suspension compresses
configurations, which have more similarities than dif- and extends. Temporarily fix hose at point it
ferences. Model names and numbers are not a conve- will last contact frame or fork before going
nient way to identify the designs. Instead, visual clues to brake lever.
7. [ ] Rear brake only: Turn handlebars to full-right
are provided here, and the designs are arbitrarily called
position (180º maximum).
type A and type B. The difference in hoses is the quick- 8. [ ] Adjust loop of hosing as short as pos-
est difference that might be observed. One design has sible without causing abrupt bend as it
banjo fittings (type A) at both ends of the hose, and the approaches brake lever (type A goes straight
other design has in-line hoses (type B). The brake-lever down from lever, and type B goes straight
reservoir caps are slightly different, as well. One cap is out of hole in tip of lever).
pointed at one end and curved inward at the other end 9. [ ] Use hydraulic hose cutter or sharp razor
(type A), and the other cap is pointed at both ends (type knife to cut hose precisely perpendicular at
B). Finally, there are visual differences in the caliper. One point determined in step 8. Remove hose
design has three hex-socket bolts in the outer face of and all fittings from brake lever and caliper.
10. [ ] Position bike so bleed valve on caliper is at
the caliper (type A), and the other design has no bolts in
highest point on caliper.
the outer face of the caliper (type B). Throughout these 11. [ ] Position handlebar and brake lever so reser-
procedures, when there are steps that vary for these two voir cover is parallel to ground.
designs, they are labeled type A or type B. 12. [ ] Remove screws and washer from reservoir
cover, then separate cover and diaphragm
from reservoir.
37 – 39
37 – DISC BRAKES
13. [ ] Type A only: Remove spring clip on pad- 21. [ ] Remove rubber cover completely from bleed
retaining bolt (on inside face of caliper), valve, then remove bleed valve (type A: use
then use 3mm hex key to unthread and 6mm open-end wrench; type B: use 8mm
remove bolt. open-end wrench).
Type B only: Use pliers to straighten bent 22. [ ] Attach 1" piece of tubing to bleed-valve nip-
end of split pin (inside face of caliper), then ple, then insert tip of oral syringe into other
remove split pin from outside face of caliper. end of hose.
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be NOTE: Brake fluid must be Shimano Mineral Oil
touched with fingers or contaminated with (#SH-DB-OIL).
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- 23. [ ] Submerge bleed valve into oil, pull on
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and plunger until syringe is full, turn syringe over
reinstalled without being contaminated. so air bubbles go into hose and bleed valve,
14. [ ] Remove brake pads and 4-prong spring, then then push in plunger to purge air.
insert yellow tool into cavity where pads 24. [ ] Thread bleed valve (with syringe attached)
were removed. Without yellow tool, wedge fully into hole in caliper, then back out 1/8
stack of feeler gauges into cavity. turn.
15. [ ] Type B only: Clamp hose in yellow tool in 25. [ ] Slowly push in plunger, watching for oil
vise so 20mm of hose extends beyond tool, emerging in bottom of brake-lever reservoir.
then insert barbed fitting into end of hose. NOTE: Excess plunger speed will cause oil to
Tap fitting down with plastic mallet until erupt out top of reservoir.
hose contacts wide part of fitting. Repeat 26. [ ] As reservoir fills close to top, stop push-
for other end of hose. ing in on plunger and use second syringe to
16. [ ] Type B only: Remove hose from yellow tool, almost empty reservoir.
then install hose nut (hex-end first) and olive 27. [ ] Close brake lever to handlebar, then press
fitting over end of hose. and release plunger while watching for air
17. [ ] Starting at caliper, route end of hose with- bubbles moving in and out of bleed valve.
out any fittings attached through any closed 28. [ ] Repeat steps 25–27 until no air bubbles are
hose guides (or attach hose by clips or seen leaving bleed valve.
straps to frame or fork). 29. [ ] Close bleed valve and secure to 35–55in-lbs.
18. [ ] Type A only: Place O-ring onto banjo bolt, 30. [ ] Remove hose and syringe from bleed valve
insert banjo bolt through banjo fitting, place and install rubber cover on bleed valve.
second O-ring over banjo-bolt threads, then 31. [ ] Install diaphragm and reservoir cover to
install banjo assembly to caliper. Torque bolt reservoir, then install washers and screws
to 45–60in-lbs. (snug gently).
Type B only: Insert end of hose with fittings 32. [ ] Remove yellow tool or other spacers from
assembled into hole in caliper (to approxi- cavity in caliper. Check that pistons are fully
mately 14mm depth), push olive fitting into depressed. If not, apply pressure with box
hole, then thread in hose nut and secure to end of 10mm combination wrench to each
45–60in-lbs. piston until both are fully depressed.
19. [ ] Type A only: Install hose nut (hex-end first) 33. [ ] Thoroughly clean and dry caliper, brake
and olive fitting onto hose, hold end of hose lever, and any oil spills. Use alcohol or
close to its final position at brake lever, then detergent-water combination. NOTE: Do not
insert nipple of banjo fitting fully into end of use solvents or automotive brake cleaner!
hose so that face of banjo is aligned flat to 34. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 4–9
face of brake-lever hole. (page 37-42).
Type B only: Install hose nut (hex-end first) 35. [ ] Loosen caliper bolts 1–2 turns.
and olive fitting onto hose. 36. [ ] Install wheel in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION
20. [ ] Type A only: Place O-ring onto banjo bolt, procedure (page 37-5).
insert banjo bolt through banjo fitting, place 37. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times
second O-ring over banjo-bolt threads, then to allow pad clearance to self-adjust, then
install banjo assembly to brake lever. Torque squeeze lever firmly to check for softness or
bolt to 45–60in-lbs. spongy feeling that indicates air is in system
Type B only: Insert end of hose with fit- (indicates need for bleeding).
tings assembled into hole in brake lever (to 38. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
approximately 14mm depth), push olive fit- tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
ting into hole, then thread in hose nut and 55–70in-lbs.
secure to 45–60in-lbs.
37 – 40
37 – DISC BRAKES
39. [ ] Remove bolts retaining caliper assembly to 9. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times,
frame or fork. then spin wheel and check for rub between
pads and either face of rotor.
10. [ ] If inner pad rubs: Reinstall caliper with addi-
CALIPER INSTALLATION AND tional .2mm shim on each bolt and check
ALIGNMENT for rub again. Repeat this step as necessary
until rub is eliminated.
This procedure assumes the lever, caliper, and hose If outer pad rubs: Reinstall caliper with one
are assembled and the system has been filled. less .2mm shim on each bolt and check for
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION rub again. Repeat this step as necessary
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see until rub is eliminated.
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel 11. [ ] Once rub is minimized, secure bolts to
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure 55–70in-lbs. NOTE: While tightening bolts,
(page 37-5). firmly cock caliper in direction it will move
2. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw with brake loads!
(at lever pivot) to three full turns clock- Some versions of these brakes have a safety-wire
wise from fully counterclockwise. NOTE:
mechanism to secure the bracket bolts. Other versions
Reach adjustment does not affect clearance
adjustment or brake operation. This adjust-
utilize plastic clips as secondary locks for the bracket bolts.
ment is only intended to make reach appro- If there are holes through the sides of the bolts, use the
priate for average-sized hands. safety wire versions of the following steps. If the bolt
Depending on the model and year, the caliper attaches heads have deep serrations, use the safety clip versions
to the frame or fork by one of three different methods. of steps #12 – #15. Figure 37.4 (page 37-45) includes a
Calipers are made to mount directly to I.S. mounts (I.S. diagram that shows how the safety wire appears when
direct), directly to post mounts (post direct), or to I.S. correctly installed by steps #12 – #15.
mounts by means of an adapter bracket (I.S. bracket). 12. [ ] Safety clips only: Snap clips over bolt heads
3. [ ] Remove pre-installed mounting bolts from so prongs are immediately clockwise of
caliper and bracket (if any), then treat all mount eye.
bolt threads with Loctite 242. NOTE: 20mm Safety wire only: Feed 6" safety wire half-
bolts are used in all applications except way through upper mounting-bolt head, wrap
direct mounting to posts, in which case one end clockwise around bolt head to meet
24mm bolts are used! other end, then twist ends together tightly
4. [ ] I.S. bracket only: Place bracket inside of with pliers until twisted section is approxi-
I.S. mounts, install bolts through mounts mately 50mm long.
and into bracket, then secure bolts to 13. [ ] Safety wire only: Wrap twisted pair clock-
55–70in-lbs. NOTE: While tightening bolts, wise around bolt head less than one full
firmly cock bracket in direction it will move turn, then pull wire to second bolt head
with brake loads! so that it approaches second bolt head on
5. [ ] All except I.S. direct: Install bolts through opposite side from where it left first bolt
caliper holes into post holes or bracket holes head (wire goes on diagonal line from first
just until caliper can still move side to side. bolt to second bolt). Insert one wire end
6. [ ] All except I.S. direct: Squeeze brake lever so through first wire hole in bolt head, then out
pads are pressing firmly against rotor, then second wire hole.
secure bolts to 55–70in-lbs. 14. [ ] Safety wire only: Wrap remaining wire
7. [ ] I.S. direct only: Place caliper over rotor and end counterclockwise around second bolt
behind I.S. mounts, then squeeze brake lever until it reaches point first wire end comes
so pads are pressing firmly against rotor. out of second bolt, then tightly twist ends
Measure gap between mounts and caliper together.
(with feeler gauges) to estimate shim needs. 15. [ ] Safety wire only: Hook second twist around
NOTE: Shim washers (.2mm and .5mm) are section of twisted wire between bolts so
used to fine tune caliper position. that loose end cannot get tangled in brake
8. [ ] Release brake lever, then place shims (total- mechanism.
ling approximately .2mm less than gap 16. [ ] Safety clips only: Snap clip over bolt head
measurements made in step 8) between closest to hose so prong is immediately
each mount and caliper and install bolts clockwise of adapter bracket.
through mounts and into caliper (secure
bolts temporarily).
37 – 41
37 – DISC BRAKES
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY on things during use of the bicycle. Performance of the
Pads should be replaced when the braking-material 1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–3
thickness is reduced at any point to .65mm. (page 37-42).
1. [ ] Remove wheel. 2. [ ] Type A only: Remove bolts in both banjo fit-
2. [ ] Type A only: Remove clip from end of pad- tings, then separate banjo fittings from cali-
retaining bolt, then use 3mm hex key to per and brake lever.
remove bolt. Type B only: Unthread hose nut at brake
Type B only: Use needle-nose pliers to lever and caliper, then pull hose out of lever
straighten bent end of split pin, then pull pin and caliper.
out of caliper. 3. [ ] Perform ASSEMBLY AND OIL FILLING (page 37-39)
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be steps 5–34, skip steps 35–36, then perform
touched with fingers or contaminated with step 37.
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- 4. [ ] If need for bleeding is evident in step 37,
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and perform BLEEDING procedure (immediately
reinstalled without being contaminated. following).
3. [ ] Remove pads and spring from rotor slot. 5. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
4. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue 55–70in-lbs.
solvent (such as alcohol), then measure
braking-material thickness with depth gauge
(see table 37-11 for wear tolerances).
NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly,
BLEEDING
Bleeding is normally done as part of new installation,
measure at thinnest point.
hose replacement, or hose sizing.
SHIMANO PAD WEAR (table 37-11) NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit-
Braking-material thickness Remaining life ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads!
2.00mm 100%
(page 37-42).
1.65mm 75% 2. [ ] Use box end of 10mm combination wrench
1.25mm 50% to depress pistons fully into cylinders.
0.90mm 25% 3. [ ] Install yellow tool in pad cavity, or wedge
stack of feeler gauges between pistons.
4. [ ] Position bike so bleed valve on caliper is at
5. [ ] If new pads have been installed, press box highest point on caliper, then completely
end of 10mm combination wrench against remove rubber cover from bleed valve.
pistons to depress pistons fully. 5. [ ] Attach waste line to bleed valve and arrange
6. [ ] Assemble sandwich of pads and 4-prong waste receptacle below end of line (line should
pad spring, then insert into rotor slot. not be submerged in fluid at any time).
7. [ ] Type A only: Treat pad-retaining-bolt threads 6. [ ] Position handlebar and brake lever so reser-
with Loctite 242, then install bolt and torque voir cover is parallel to ground.
to 18–35in-lbs. NOTE: Brake fluid must be Shimano Mineral Oil
Type B only: Insert split pin into outer face (#SH-DB-OIL).
of caliper, through holes in pads, and out 7. [ ] Remove screws and washer from reservoir
back face of caliper. cover, then separate cover and diaphragm
8. [ ] Type A only: Engage clip into end of pad- from reservoir. If reservoir is low, fill with
retaining bolt. new fluid.
Type B only: Use needle-nose pliers to bend 8. [ ] Open bleed valve 1/8 turn.
longer end of split pin away from shorter end. 9. [ ] While watching oil flow out waste line,
9. [ ] Install wheel. squeeze brake lever to grip (hold there), then
close bleed valve.
HOSE REPLACEMENT ONLY 10. [ ] Release brake lever, then top off reservoir.
11. [ ] Repeat steps 8–10 numerous times. Imme-
If the caliper hose is damaged, too short, or too long, diately or after several repetitions, air will be
then it is necessary to install a new hose or re-size the exist- seen in waste line. Continue repeating steps
ing hose. The same procedure suffices for both. A hose is 8–10 until air stops appearing in waste line.
too short if it must bend sharply at any time. A hose is too 12. [ ] Close bleed valve and secure to 35–55in-lbs.
long only if it interferes with other components or snags
37 – 42
37 – DISC BRAKES
13. [ ] Remove hose and syringe from bleed valve 4. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw
and install rubber cover on bleed valve. (at lever pivot) to middle of range (approxi-
14. [ ] Install diaphragm and reservoir cover to mately six turns from either end of range).
reservoir, then install washers and screws NOTE: Reach adjustment does not affect
(snug gently). clearance adjustment or brake operation.
15. [ ] Remove yellow tool or other spacers from This adjustment is only intended to make
cavity in caliper. Check that pistons are fully reach appropriate for average-sized hands.
depressed. If not, apply pressure with box 5. [ ] Check for O-rings in recess in each face of
end of 10mm combination wrench to each banjo fitting at each end of hose. O-rings
piston until both are fully depressed. should not protrude.
16. [ ] Thoroughly clean and dry caliper, brake 6. [ ] Slide rubber cover over banjo fitting at one
lever, and any oil spills. Use alcohol or end of hose.
detergent-water combination. NOTE: Do not 7. [ ] Place covered banjo fitting over hole at inner
use solvents or automotive brake cleaner! end of brake-lever body, then thread in hol-
17. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 4–9 low bolt finger tight (do not secure). Check
(page 37-42). for protruding O-ring and correct.
18. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota- 8. [ ] With bike in on-ground position (axles equal
tional position, then secure mounting bolt to height), align banjo fitting at lever to point
55–70in-lbs. straight down, then secure banjo-fitting bolt
19. [ ] Install wheel. to 45–60in-lbs. Check for protruding O-ring
again and correct.
9. [ ] Attach other banjo fitting to caliper and
install, but do not secure, bolt. Check for
SHIMANO DISC BRAKES: protruding O-ring and correct.
10. [ ] Rotate banjo fitting at caliper to point away
DEORE XT (QUAD-PISTON) from caliper and to be parallel to plane of
rotor slot (in or out 10° is acceptable), then
This section specifically covers the Shimano Deore
secure to 45–60in-lbs. Check for protruding
XT M755 disc brake system, including lever installation, O-ring and correct.
hose installation, filling and bleeding the system, caliper
installation, and pad replacement. This section does not Filling system with oil
cover rebuilding the caliper, which Shimano does not This segment of the procedure describes filling a
support. There are four bolts holding the two caliper new (empty) system or flushing and refilling a used sys-
halves together, but nothing can be accomplished by tem. Certain steps, as noted, apply to a limited number
separating the halves. of these alternate procedures. In step #11, the reser-
voir cover is removed. If the brake is used, at this point
inspect the brake fluid. If it is dark and discolored, it
BRAKE INSTALLATION should be replaced.
The following procedure is used to install a new brake NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit-
(includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which is provided ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads!
unassembled and not filled with brake fluid. The hose can- 11. [ ] Position bike so plate on top of brake-lever
not be sized but is available in many lengths. Before doing reservoir is completely flat and parallel to
actual assembly, loosely install caliper, lever, and hose, then ground. Remove cover-plate screws, metal
check suitability of hose length. cover, plastic cover, then rubber diaphragm
1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION from reservoir.
procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see 12. [ ] Arrange hose and caliper so they dangle
ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel straight down from lever, without bends or
in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure kinks in the hose, with room for a waste-oil
(page 37-5). receptacle below.
Brake lever and hose installation (page 37-46).
2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from 14. [ ] Use box end of 10mm combination wrench
handlebar. to depress pistons fully into cylinders.
3. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota- 15. [ ] Install yellow tool in pad cavity, or wedge
tional position, then secure mounting bolt to stack of feeler gauges between pistons.
55–70in-lbs. 16. [ ] Only if filling empty system: Turn bleed
valve 1/8 turn counterclockwise to open.
37 – 43
37 – DISC BRAKES
17. [ ] Only if flushing and refilling system: Open 34. [ ] If caliper-mounting bolts are being reused,
bleed valve 1/8 turn, pump brake lever treat threads with Loctite 242 (not needed
repeatedly to clear oil from system, then allow for first-time installation).
several minutes for draining to complete. 35. [ ] Put longer caliper-mounting bolt through
18. [ ] Remove rubber cover completely from bleed frame/fork mounting hole further from drop-
valve, then remove bleed valve (use 8mm out and shorter bolt through other frame/
open-end wrench). fork mounting hole (leave bolts loose at least
19. [ ] Attach 1" piece of tubing to bleed-valve nip- 2 full turns).
ple, then insert tip of oral syringe into other 36. [ ] Install wheel in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION
end of hose. procedure (page 37-5).
NOTE: Brake fluid must be Shimano Mineral Oil 37. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times
(#SH-DB-OIL). to allow pad clearance to self-adjust, then
20. [ ] Submerge bleed valve into oil, pull on squeeze lever firmly to check for softness or
plunger until syringe is full, turn syringe over spongy feeling that indicates air is in system
so air bubbles go into hose and bleed valve, (perform BLEEDING procedure on page 37-46
then push in plunger to purge air. after conclusion of caliper alignment).
21. [ ] Thread bleed valve (with syringe attached) 38. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
fully into hole in caliper, then back out 1/8 tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
turn. 55–70in-lbs.
22. [ ] Slowly push in plunger, watching for oil
emerging in bottom of brake-lever reservoir. Caliper alignment
NOTE: Excess plunger speed will cause oil to 39. [ ] Close brake lever firmly toward grip and
erupt out top of reservoir. secure with strap or clamp.
23. [ ] As reservoir fills close to top, stop push- 40. [ ] Use feeler gauge to determine gap between
ing in on plunger and use second syringe to inside faces of mounts (or bracket on post
almost empty reservoir. mount) and face of mounting eyes of caliper.
24. [ ] Close brake lever to handlebar, then press When recording these measurements, con-
and release plunger while watching for air sider mount point closest to dropout to be
bubbles moving in and out of bleed valve. near mount. Near: _____mm Far: _____mm
25. [ ] Repeat steps 22–24 until no air bubbles are 41. [ ] Remove bolt from near mount, then install
seen leaving bleed valve. shim stack (equal to near gap recorded in
26. [ ] Close bleed valve and secure to 35–55in-lbs. step 40) between mount face and caliper (if
27. [ ] Remove hose and syringe from bleed valve unable to match exactly, set shim stack to
and install rubber cover on bleed valve. no more than .1mm less than gap). Reinstall
28. [ ] Check and refill reservoir to overflow point bolt and snug gently.
as needed. 42. [ ] Remove bolt from far mount, then reinstall
29. [ ] Assemble plastic reservoir cap to metal cap, with shim stack (equal to far gap recorded in
then assemble diaphragm to plastic cap. step 40) between mount face and caliper (if
30. [ ] Fill grooves in bottom face of diaphragm unable to match exactly, set shim stack to
with oil, then quickly place cap assembly on no more than .1mm less than gap). Reinstall
reservoir and secure cap with screws. bolt and snug gently.
31. [ ] Remove yellow tool or other spacers from In the next step, inspect for rub between the pads and
cavity in caliper. Check that pistons are fully rotor. Light rub is tolerable, but changing the shim thick-
depressed. If not, apply pressure with box ness between the caliper mount and caliper can correct
end of 10mm combination wrench to each excessive rubbing. Rubbing is easy to hear, but locating
piston until all are fully depressed. whether it is against the outer pad or inner pad can be
32. [ ] Thoroughly clean and dry caliper, brake difficult. Try back-lighting the gaps between the pads and
lever, and any oil spills. Use alcohol or the rotor with a flashlight, or try a .05mm feeler gauge
detergent-water combination. NOTE: Do not
between each pad and the rotor. Unlike some disc-brake
use solvents or automotive brake cleaner!
systems, this brake is self-adjusting for pad clearance, so
(page 37-46). there is no manual adjustment to eliminate rub other than
NOTE: For frames or forks with Hayes-type post changing the shim stacks.
mounting (bolt holes aligned parallel to bike, 43. [ ] Release brake lever, then spin wheel and
rather than perpendicular to bike), an adapter listen for rubs. If rubbing is heard, inspect
plate must be mounted first. Install adapter closely for whether it is at inner or outer pad
and secure bolts to 55–70in-lbs. and at which end of pad rub is occurring.
37 – 44
37 – DISC BRAKES
When changing the shim stack to reduce rub, using 44. [ ] Use different combinations of .2mm and
different combinations of shims can make adjustments .5mm shims to move one end of caliper in
by as little as .1mm increments. It is acceptable to shim or out, then check again for rub and redo
each bolt differently. Possible combinations are: shimming as necessary until rubs are mini-
mized or eliminated.
.2mm – one .2mm shim
45. [ ] Release bolts, firmly cock caliper in direction
.4mm – two .2mm shims
of rotor rotation, then torque mounting bolts
.5mm – one .5mm shim to 55–70in-lbs. Check for change in rub and
.6mm – three .2mm shims correct if necessary.
.7mm – .5mm and .2mm shim
.8mm – four .2mm shims
Safety plate and Cap bolts

triangle-head bolts
Metal reservoir cap
Folded up Plastic reservoir cap

ROTOR SECURITY
(close-up and edge view) Banjo bolt
O-ring
Reservoir diaphragm
Orientation of
O-ring safety wire on
Reservoir
caliper-mounting
bolts
Banjo fitting
Reach adjust
Lever-mounting bolt Caliper Banjo fitting
* Variable mix of .2mm and .5mm

washers to adjust pad clearance
* O-ring
2mm washer
O-ring
Bleed valve Banjo bolt
2mm washer
* Clip
Bleed-valve cover
Pad
Pad
Pad-retaining bolt
Four-prong spring
37.4 This is a Shimano Deore XT caliper and brake lever. Note details for the safety-wire system and the rotor
safety plates. SRAM 9.0 and Grimeca System 8 brakes are similar but lack the safety-wire system and the safety
plates on the rotor. The SRAM/Grimeca reservoir diaphragm and cap configuration may also be slightly different.
37 – 45
37 – DISC BRAKES
46. [ ] Feed 6" safety wire halfway through upper 5. [ ] Clean inside caliper (in vicinity of pistons)
mounting-bolt head, wrap one end clockwise with alcohol or water-and-detergent solu-
around bolt head to meet other end, then tion. NOTE: Do not use automotive brake
twist ends together tightly with pliers until cleaners! Seal damage will occur!
twisted section is approximately 50mm long.
47. [ ] Wrap twisted pair clockwise around bolt Pad installation
head less than one full turn, then pull wire to NOTE: If original pads are being reinstalled and
second bolt head so that it approaches sec- brake lever has not been squeezed while pads
ond bolt head on opposite side from where or rotor were out, then skip step 6.
it left first bolt head (wire goes on diagonal 6. [ ] Use box end of a 10mm combination
line from first bolt to second bolt). Insert one wrench to push pistons back into caliper.
wire end through first wire hole in bolt head, 7. [ ] Assemble in order on work surface: first pad
then out second wire hole. (metal-side down), pad spring (with prongs
48. [ ] Wrap remaining wire end counterclockwise straddling braking material), then second pad
around second bolt until it reaches point first (metal-side up).
wire end comes out of second bolt, then 8. [ ] Pick up assembly, then inspect all four
tightly twist ends together. prongs of spring to verify spring ends are
49. [ ] Hook second twist around section of twisted not beyond ends of metal pad backs or
wire between bolts so that loose end cannot resting against face of braking material.
get tangled in brake mechanism. 9. [ ] Squeeze pads together, then insert pad
50. [ ] Secure hose(s) to frame and/or fork, then stack into slot in outside edge of caliper.
turn handlebars and/or move suspension 10. [ ] Press pad stack in until holes in pads and
through its full range to check for interfer- 4-prong spring line up with hole in caliper
ence with hose(s). for pad-retaining bolt, then insert bolt (treat
threads with Loctite 222).
11. [ ] Secure pad-retaining bolt to 20–35in-lbs,
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY then install clip in slot in end of bolt.
Pads should be replaced when the braking-material
13. [ ] Operate brake, then spin rotor and check for
thickness is reduced at any point to .65mm.
unacceptable pad rub. Adjust shims as nec-
Pad removal essary to reduce rub.
2. [ ] Remove clip from end of pad-retaining bolt,
then unthread bolt. BLEEDING
NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be Bleeding is normally done as part of new installation,
touched with fingers or contaminated with hose replacement, or hose sizing.
grease or oil of any type. With proper atten- NOTE: At all times while working with oil, it is crit-
tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and ical to keep oil off rotor surface and brake pads!
reinstalled without being contaminated. 1. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 1–3
3. [ ] Pull out 4-prong spring and pads (remove (page 37-46).
through access in outer edge of caliper). 2. [ ] Use box end of 10mm combination wrench
4. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge to depress pistons fully into cylinders.
end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue 3. [ ] Install yellow tool in pad cavity, or wedge
solvent (such as alcohol), then measure stack of feeler gauges between pistons.
braking-material thickness with depth gauge 4. [ ] Position bike so bleed valve on caliper is at
and compare to values in table 37-12. highest point on caliper, then completely
NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly, remove rubber cover from bleed valve.
measure at thinnest point. 5. [ ] Attach waste line to bleed valve and arrange
SHIMANO DEORE XT PAD WEAR (table 37-12) waste receptacle below end of line (line should
not be submerged in fluid at any time).
Braking-material thickness Remaining life
6. [ ] Position handlebar and brake lever so reser-
2.00mm 100% voir cover is parallel to ground.
1.65mm 75% NOTE: Brake fluid must be Shimano Mineral Oil
1.25mm 50% (#SH-DB-OIL).
0.90mm 25%
37 – 46
37 – DISC BRAKES
7. [ ] Remove screws and washer from reservoir
cover, then separate cover and diaphragm
BRAKE INSTALLATION
from reservoir. If reservoir is low, fill with The following procedure is used to install a new brake
new fluid. (includes a lever, hose, and caliper), which are provided
8. [ ] Open bleed valve 1/8 turn. assembled and pre-bled. The hose cannot be sized but
9. [ ] While watching oil flow out waste line, is available in many lengths. If a different hose length
squeeze brake lever to grip (hold there), then than the one installed on the brake needs to be installed,
close bleed valve. complete the brake installation procedure, then perform
10. [ ] Release brake lever, then top off reservoir. a hose replacement.
11. [ ] Repeat steps 8–10 numerous times. Imme- 1. [ ] Install rotor to hub using ROTOR INSTALLATION
diately or after several repetitions, air will be procedure (page 37-5), then align rotor (see
seen in waste line. Continue repeating steps ROTOR ALIGNMENT, page 37-6). Install wheel
8–10 until air stops appearing is waste line. in bike using WHEEL INSTALLATION procedure
12. [ ] Close bleed valve and secure to 35–55in-lbs. (page 37-5).
13. [ ] Remove hose and syringe from bleed valve 2. [ ] Remove existing brake lever, if any, from
and install rubber cover on bleed valve. handlebar.
14. [ ] Assemble diaphragm to bottom of reser- 3 [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
voir cover, then fill grooves in diaphragm tional position, snug bolts gently and evenly
with fluid. until gaps at both ends of clamp are equal,
15. [ ] Install diaphragm and reservoir cover to then alternate 1/4 turns on each bolt until
reservoir, then install washers and screws both are secure to 45–60in-lbs. NOTE: Fol-
(snug gently). lowing SRAM-recommended torques will
16. [ ] Remove yellow tool or other spacers from result in damage!
cavity in caliper. Check that pistons are fully 4. [ ] Adjust reach with 2mm hex-socket screw
depressed. If not, apply pressure with box (at lever pivot) to middle of range (approxi-
end of 10mm combination wrench to each mate six turns from either end of range).
piston until both are fully depressed. NOTE: Reach adjustment does not affect
17. [ ] Thoroughly clean and dry caliper, brake clearance adjustment or brake operation.
lever, and any oil spills. Use alcohol or This adjustment is only intended to make
detergent-water combination. NOTE: Do not reach appropriate for average-sized hands.
use solvents or automotive brake cleaner! 5. [ ] If caliper-mounting bolts are being reused,
18. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 4–13 treat threads with Loctite 242 (not needed
(page 37-46). for first-time installation).
19. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota- 6. [ ] Put longer caliper-mounting bolt through
tional position, then secure mounting bolt to frame/fork mounting hole further from drop-
55–70in-lbs. out and shorter bolt through other frame/
20. [ ] Install wheel. fork mounting hole (leave bolts loose at least
2 full turns).
7. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times
to allow pad clearance to self-adjust, then
SRAM 9.0 & GRIMECA squeeze lever firmly to check for softness
or spongy feeling that indicates air is in sys-
SYSTEM 8 DISC BRAKES tem (perform FILLING AND BLEEDING procedure
on page 37-49 after conclusion of caliper-
This section specifically covers SRAM 9.0 and
Grimeca System 8 disc brakes, which are identical. These alignment procedure).
8. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
brakes are very similar to the Shimano Deore XT M755
tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
disc brake system but are different enough that the Deore
45–60in-lbs.
XT service procedure should not be used for the SRAM
and Grimeca brakes. The services covered include lever Caliper alignment
installation, hose installation, filling and bleeding the 9. [ ] Close brake lever firmly toward grip and
system, caliper installation, and pad replacement. This secure with strap or clamp.
section does not cover rebuilding the caliper, which is
not supported by either manufacturer.
37 – 47
37 – DISC BRAKES
10. [ ] Use feeler gauge to determine gap between NOTE: Braking surface of pads must never be
inside faces of mounts (or bracket on post touched with fingers or contaminated with
mount) and face of mounting eyes of caliper. grease or oil of any type. With proper atten-
When recording these measurements, con- tion, pads can be removed, inspected, and
sider mount point closest to dropout to be reinstalled without being contaminated.
near mount. Near: _____mm Far: _____mm 3. [ ] Pull out 4-prong spring and pads (remove
11. [ ] Remove bolt from near mount, then install through access in outer edge of caliper).
shim stack (equal to near gap recorded in 4. [ ] Clean measuring caliper (at depth-gauge
step 10) between mount face and caliper (if end) of any oil or grease with zero-residue
unable to match exactly, set shim stack to solvent (such as alcohol), then measure
no more than .1mm less than gap). Reinstall braking-material thickness with depth gauge
bolt and snug gently. and compare to values in table 37-13.
12. [ ] Remove bolt from far mount, then reinstall NOTE: If pad appears to be worn irregularly,
with shim stack (equal to far gap recorded in measure at thinnest point.
step 10) between mount face and caliper (if SRAM/GRIMECA PAD WEAR (table 37-13)
unable to match exactly, set shim stack to
no more than .1mm less than gap). Reinstall Braking-material thickness Remaining life
bolt and snug gently. 1.90mm 100%
In the next step, inspect for rub between the pads and 1.68mm 75%
rotor. Light rub is tolerable, but changing the shim thick- 1.35mm 50%
ness between the caliper mount and caliper can correct 1.03mm 25%
excessive rubbing. Rubbing is easy to hear, but locating
whether it is against the outer pad or inner pad can be
difficult. Try back-lighting the gaps between the pads and 5. [ ] Clean inside caliper (in vicinity of pistons)
the rotor with a flashlight, or try a .05mm feeler gauge with alcohol or water-and-detergent solu-
tion. NOTE: Do not use automotive brake
between each pad and the rotor. Unlike some disc-brake
cleaners! Seal damage will occur!
systems, this brake is self-adjusting for pad clearance, so
there is no manual adjustment to eliminate rub other than Pad installation
changing the shim stacks. NOTE: If original pads are being reinstalled and
13. [ ] Release brake lever, then spin wheel and brake lever has not been squeezed while pads
listen for rubs. If rubbing is heard, inspect or rotor were out, then skip step 6.
closely for whether it is at inner or outer pad 6. [ ] Use box end of a 10mm combination
and at which end of pad rub is occurring. wrench to push pistons back into caliper.
14. [ ] Use different combinations of .2mm and 7. [ ] Assemble in order on work surface: first pad
1.0mm shims to move one end of caliper in (metal-side down), pad spring (with prongs
or out, then check again for rub and redo straddling braking material), then second pad
shimming as necessary until rubs are mini- (metal-side up).
mized or eliminated. 8. [ ] Pick up assembly, then inspect all four
15. [ ] Release bolts, firmly cock caliper in direction prongs of spring to verify spring ends are
of rotor rotation, then torque mounting bolts not beyond ends of metal pad backs or
to 90–105in-lbs. Check for change in rub resting against face of braking material.
and correct if necessary. 9. [ ] Squeeze pads together, then insert pad
16. [ ] Secure hose(s) to frame and/or fork, then stack into slot in outside edge of caliper.
turn handlebars and/or move suspension 10. [ ] Press pad stack in until holes in pads and
through its full range to check for interfer- 4-prong spring line up with hole in caliper for
ence with hose(s). pad-retaining shaft, then insert shaft.
11. [ ] Install clip in slot in end of bolt.
PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY 13. [ ] Operate brake, then spin rotor and check for
Pads should be replaced when the braking-material unacceptable pad rub. Adjust shims as nec-
thickness is reduced at any point to .75mm. essary to reduce rub.
Pad removal
2. [ ] Remove e-clip from end of pad-retaining
shaft, then pull shaft out of caliper.
37 – 48
37 – DISC BRAKES
HOSE INSTALLATION 9. [ ] Position bike so plate on top of brake-lever

reservoir is completely flat and parallel to
NOTE: This brake contains DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake
ground. Remove cover-plate screws, metal
fluid, which is a skin and eye irritant, damages
cover, and rubber diaphragm from reservoir.
paint, and destroys brake pads. Wear appropriate
safety equipment to protect eyes and skin!
(page 37-48).
11. [ ] Use box end of 10mm combination wrench
(page 37-48).
to depress pistons fully into cylinders.
2. [ ] Detach clamps or straps that retain hose to
12. [ ] Install Shimano yellow tool in pad cavity,
frame or fork.
or wedge stack of feeler gauges between
3. [ ] Unthread bolts from banjo fittings and
pistons.
remove hose from brake lever and caliper.
13. [ ] Remove rubber cover completely from bleed
4. [ ] Install O-rings in recess in each face of banjo
valve on caliper.
fitting at each end of hose. O-rings should
14. [ ] Fix clear-vinyl waste line to bleed nipple,
not protrude.
then route free end of waste line into waste
5. [ ] Place banjo fitting over hole at inner end of
receptacle. Alternatively, place a leak-free
brake-lever body, then thread in hollow bolt
plastic bag over free end of waste line and
finger tight (do not secure). Check for pro-
use zip tie to secure bag to waste line.
truding O-ring and correct.
15. [ ] Assemble reservoir bleed cap to top of
6. [ ] With bike in on-ground position (axles equal
reservoir (yellow plate with larger screws),
height), align banjo fitting at lever to point
then secure screws until bleed-cap gasket
straight down, then secure banjo-fitting bolt
forms tight seal to reservoir.
to 45–60in-lbs. Check for protruding O-ring
16. [ ] Fill syringe with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid.
again and correct.
NOTE: DOT 5 or mineral oil are not accept-
7. [ ] Attach other banjo fitting to caliper and
able substitutes!
install, but do not secure, bolt. Check for
17. [ ] Firmly insert syringe into hole in top of bleed
protruding O-ring and correct.
cap.
8. [ ] Rotate banjo fitting at caliper to point away
18. [ ] Turn bleed valve 1/8-turn counterclockwise
from caliper and to be parallel to plane of
to open.
rotor slot (in or out 10° is acceptable), then
19. [ ] While steadily depressing syringe plunger,
secure to 45–60in-lbs. Check for protruding
pump brake lever repeatedly while watching
O-ring and correct.
oil exiting through waste line.
Filling and bleeding 20. [ ] Release brake lever and stop depressing
This procedure requires a Grimeca bleed kit (sold syringe plunger when syringe has only 1–2cc
by Vuelta through BTI), which includes fluid, a syringe, of brake fluid remaining.
21. [ ] Close bleed valve, then remove waste line
a reservoir bleed cap, and waste lines. If this kit is not
and install rubber cover on valve.
available, the Shimano Deore XT filling (page 37-43) and 22. [ ] If air bubbles were still coming out waste
bleeding (page 37-46) procedures work with two excep- line at conclusion of step 20, or if flushing
tions: 1. DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid must be used system and dirty fluid was still coming out
(absolutely no exceptions!). 2. Extreme care must be of waste line in step 20, remove syringe
taken when compressing the brake lever, due to the fact from bleed cap and repeat steps 16–21.
that the SRAM/Grimeca reservoir lacks the deflector plate 23. [ ] With rag positioned to catch spill, remove
found in the Shimano lever that prevents fluid from erupt- syringe from bleed cap.
ing from the reservoir if the lever is closed too rapidly. 24. [ ] Remove bleed cap from reservoir.
This segment of the procedure describes filling a new 25. [ ] Check and refill reservoir to overflow point
as needed.
(empty) system or flushing and refilling a used system. In
26. [ ] Assemble diaphragm to underside of reser-
step #9, the reservoir cover is removed. If the brake is voir cap, then fill grooves in bottom side of
used, at this point inspect the brake fluid. If it is dark and diaphragm with brake fluid.
discolored, it should be replaced. 27. [ ] While holding rag under reservoir, position
NOTE: This brake contains DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake cap/diaphragm assembly close to reservoir,
fluid, which is a skin and eye irritant, damages then turn assembly over quickly and seat
paint, and destroys brake pads. Wear appropriate onto reservoir.
safety equipment to protect eyes and skin! 28. [ ] Install screws into reservoir cover, then
tighten screws just until they feel bottomed.
37 – 49
37 – DISC BRAKES
29. [ ] Remove yellow tool or other spacers from 32. [ ] Perform PAD REPLACEMENT ONLY steps 4–13
cavity in caliper. Check that pistons are fully (page 37-46).
depressed. If not, apply pressure with box 33. [ ] Install brake lever in normal lateral and rota-
end of 10mm combination wrench to each tional position, then secure mounting bolt to
piston until both are fully depressed. 45–60in-lbs.
30. [ ] Thoroughly clean and dry caliper, brake
lever, and any oil spills. Use alcohol or
detergent-water combination. NOTE: Do not
use solvents or automotive brake cleaner!
31. [ ] Squeeze and release brake lever 3–4 times
to allow pad clearance to self-adjust, then
squeeze lever firmly to check for softness
or spongy feeling that indicates air is in sys-
tem. Repeat steps 13–30 if air is in system.
DISC-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 37-14)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Pads rub irregularly.
Loose caliper. Check all caliper bolts and secure to manufacturer’s
specification.
Loose rotor. Check all rotor bolts and secure to manufacturer’s
specification.
Loose hub bearings. Check at rim for knocking sensation when rim is jerked
side to side. Service bearings if knock is detected.
SYMPTOM: Pads rub rhythmically and can be heard while riding bike.
Rotor is out of true. True rotor to less than .004" (.1mm) lateral devia-
tion. Replace rotor if tolerance cannot be achieved.
SYMPTOM: Pads rub continuously.
Caliper is not centered to rotor. Check wheel installation. Adjust caliper position if
realignment of wheel does not solve problem.
Non-self-adjusting hydraulic brake is adjusted Adjust oil-volume adjuster (if any) and adjust fixed-pad
too tightly. adjuster (if any).
Mechanical disc brake is adjusted too tightly. Adjust pad adjuster(s) until rub is eliminated. Adjust
cable tension only if there is no outer-pad adjuster.
SYMPTOM: Pad rub developed immediately after reinstalling wheel.
Wheel has not been installed in original alignment. Realign wheel.
SYMPTOM: Slot between pads is too narrow for rotor to fit in when reinstalling wheel.
Lever was compressed while rotor was not Remove wheel and depress pistons back into caliper.
between pads on self-adjusting hydraulic caliper. NOTE: Most brands require pad removal to do this, but
Magura requires pads be left in place.
SYMPTOM: Pad rub develops only after extended braking.
Heat is expanding brake fluid. If model is non-self-adjusting (closed type with no dia-
phragm in reservoir), loosen volume adjuster (adjuster
may be on brake lever or on caliper). There is no solu-
tion if brake is self-adjusting type; brakes may be insuf-
ficient for type of use.
Continued
37 – 50
37 – DISC BRAKES
DISC-BRAKE TROUBLESHOOTING (table 37-14 continued)

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Uneven pad wear, with entry end of one pad more worn and exit end of other pad more worn.
Poor caliper alignment in horizontal plane due to –If caliper is aligned with shims, reduce shim-stack
poor alignment of mounts and/or wrong shims thickness at mount located near end of outer pad
between I.S. mounts and caliper. that is less worn, and increase shim-stack thickness
at mount located near end of outer pad that is more
worn. Install new pads.
–If caliper is type with oval mounting holes that
allow lateral adjustment of caliper position, install
new pads and realign caliper.
SYMPTOM: Uneven pad wear, with outer edge of one pad more worn and inner edge of other pad
more worn.
Poor caliper alignment in vertical plane due to –If caliper is Avid brand, perform caliper installation
poor alignment of mounts. and alignment as described in CALIPER INSTALLATION
AND ADJUSTMENT (page 37-8).
-If caliper mounts directly to I.S. mounts, perform
MILLING I.S. MOUNTS procedure (page 37-6).
–If neither of above possibilities are options, see
Poor alignment of mounts (page 37-4).
SYMPTOM: Top edges of pads are not worn at all, and worn section of pad has curve that matches
outer edge of rotor.
If brake is not mounted to an adapter, rotor is Determine correct rotor diameter for caliper/mount
wrong diameter. combination.
Adapter bracket is wrong one for caliper/mount/ Determine correct adapter for combination. Change
rotor-diameter combination. rotor to one of larger diameter if no adapter exists
for existing combination.
SYMPTOM: Rotor has been rubbing on side of slot in caliper, but pads are not worn beyond
acceptable tolerance.
Brake with mechanical pad adjuster was not set Replace caliper if wear in rotor slot has created a
up correctly (fixed pad was not positioned cor- notch or corner. If caliper is not damaged, install new
rectly when caliper was aligned and secured). pads and perform caliper alignment correctly.
SYMPTOM: Metallic scraping sound occurs only when brakes are applied.
Pad-return springs are rubbing on rotor. –If pad spring has a deliberate offset in one prong to
act as a wear indicator, pads are due to be replaced.
–Check for damaged (bent) pad-return spring and
repair or replace spring.
–If spring is not damaged, pads are worn beyond
safe limits—replace immediately!
Backing plate of pad is rubbing rotor. Pads are worn beyond safe limits—replace immediately!
SYMPTOM: Metallic scraping sound occurs when brakes are not being applied.
Rotor is rubbing sides of slot in caliper. –Check and correct rotor wobble and caliper alignment.
–Check for loose rotor bolts, loose caliper bolts, and
loose hub bearings. Correct as necessary.
Edge of rotor is rubbing bottom of rotor slot in Determine mismatched part and replace.
caliper, due to unacceptable combination of rotor
diameter, adapter-bracket type, and caliper.
Bolts through I.S. mount are protruding too far Inspect for interference between rotor and bolts,
and hitting rotor arms. then replace bolts with shorter ones or install wash-
ers under heads of bolts.
Continued
37 – 51
37 – DISC BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Brakes squeal when operated.
Loose rotor bolts or caliper bolts. Check and secure all bolts.
New pads need to break in. Allow several dozen hard stops for break-in before
seeking other solution.
Pads have been contaminated with skin oils, Clean rotor with alcohol and install new pads.
lubricants, or brake fluid.
Harmonic vibrations being created by particular Try alternate brand of pads or try mixing brands or
combination of materials. compositions of pads (metallic or non-metallic).
SYMPTOM: Braking power reduced when new pads installed.
New pads need to break in. Allow several dozen hard stops for break-in before
seeking other solution.
SYMPTOM: Braking power reduced immediately after performing hydraulic service, but lever feels nor-
mal.
Pads have been contaminated with skin oils, Clean rotor with alcohol and install new pads.
lubricants, or brake fluid.
SYMPTOM: Lever feels soft or spongy after performing hydraulic service.
Self-adjusting pistons need to adjust. Ignore if symptom goes away after 3–4 strokes of
lever. If not, perform bleeding service.
Air in hydraulic system from improper setup. Perform bleeding service.
Air introduced into system because lever was With bike in normal position, allow time for air to rise
compressed while bike was inverted (during to top of hose, then operate brake lever repeatedly
accident or storage). to bleed air in master cylinder back into reservoir. If
symptom persists, perform full bleeding procedure.
SYMPTOM: Mechanical disc brake is grabby, or it feels difficult to modulate amount of braking force.
Friction in cable system. Service cable.
Non-compatible lever. Switch lever to linear-pull-style lever (pivot-to-cable-
anchor distance of 30mm or more).
Lack of lubrication or contamination inside caliper. Overhaul caliper.
SYMPTOM: Lever travels too far before braking is initiated.
Mechanical pad adjuster is too loose. Change pad-adjuster setting.
Mechanical system cable is too loose. Check if delay occurs between start of lever motion
and start of caliper-arm motion. Tighten cable to
eliminate delay.
Cable tension is too low on mechanical brake Tighten cable.
with no outer-pad adjuster.
Hydraulic-system volume adjuster too loose. Change volume-adjuster position.
Low level of hydraulic fluid. Check pad wear. Check fluid level in reservoir and
increase if low. Clean system thoroughly, apply con-
stant high pressure to lever, and check for leaks in
hose system, at caliper, and at lever.
SYMPTOM: Lever travels too little before braking is initiated.
Reach adjustment on lever is wrong. –Hydraulic brakes only: Find and adjust reach screw.
—Mechanical disc brakes only: Detach cable sys-
tem, find and adjust reach mechanism in lever,
then re-attach cable and perform normal clearance
adjustments.
Continued
37 – 52
37 – DISC BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Lever feels firm initially, then softens noticeably as pressure is maintained.
Hydraulic seal is failing in master cylinder Replace seals and piston if lever is serviceable.
(brake lever). Replace lever if non-serviceable model.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks from hose fittings.
Fittings need to be secured. Clean thoroughly at leaking fitting, secure bolt or nut
to manufacturer’s recommended torque, then put
sustained high pressure on brake lever and inspect
for new leaks.
O-rings in banjo fitting are damaged or out of Separate banjo fitting from caliper or brake lever,
position. replace O-rings, reinstall fitting, bleed system, then
put sustained high pressure on brake lever and
inspect for new leaks.
Compression fitting (olive) is damaged. Disassemble hose fitting, trim 1/4" from end of hose,
install new compression fitting, and reassemble hose
connection. Bleed system, then put sustained high
pressure on brake lever and inspect for new leaks.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks from hose.
Hose is cracked due to abuse or poor setup. Check if hose length is too short or if hose is being
hyperextended or crushed during fork rotation or
suspension action. Replace hose or hose assembly,
making sure length and routing are good.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks at bleed screw or bleed valve.
Bleed valve or bleed screw is loose. Secure bleed screw, then put sustained high pres-
sure on brake lever and inspect for new leaks.
Bleed valve or screw has damaged O-ring seal. Replace O-ring, then put sustained high pressure on
brake lever and inspect for new leaks.
Bleed screw has poor seal at conical tip. Install bleed screw with Loctite 222 on threads.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks from reservoir cover.
If leak occurs only for short time when brake is Check system periodically to see if leak continues.
new or just after hydraulic service, top of dia- Try to keep top side of diaphragm dry when servic-
phragm was contaminated with fluid. ing reservoir.
Cover screws are loose. Secure cover screws, clean reservoir area thor-
oughly, and check system regularly for reoccurrence.
Diaphragm is damaged or out of position. Remove reservoir cover, inspect diaphragm, then
realign or replace diaphragm as necessary.
Normal, if leak only occurs when bike is hung Avoid storing bike in these positions.
upside down or hung from front wheel.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks from cavity in brake-lever body out of which lever comes.
Hydraulic seal is failing in master cylinder (brake Replace seals and piston if lever is serviceable.
lever). Replace lever if non-serviceable model.
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks in caliper in cavity for brake pads.
Hydraulic seal is failing in slave cylinder (caliper). Replace seals and piston if caliper is serviceable.
Replace caliper if non-serviceable model.
Scratch in cylinder or in seal groove in cylinder Replace caliper.
if rebuild fails to stop leak.
Continued
37 – 53
37 – DISC BRAKES

Cause Solution
SYMPTOM: Oil leaks from seam between parts of caliper.
Caliper-half bolts loose. Check and secure bolts holding caliper halves
together.
O-ring seal between caliper halves out of place Disassemble caliper and replace O-ring with manu-
or damaged. facturer’s original part only.
SYMPTOM: Pistons develop progressive stickiness after fluid change, or cylinders develop leaks shortly
after fluid change.
Non-compatible brake fluid has been introduced Disassemble system completely, clean all parts to
to system. be 100% free of existing fluids, replace all seals
and hoses, then assemble system and refill with
compatible fluid.
SYMPTOM: Brake seems to jerk or snap when used for first time only or each time brake is applied
after having been used last to resist rolling backward on a hill.
Caliper or bracket mounted to I.S. mounts was Loosen bolts, then cock caliper or bracket correctly
not cocked firmly in direction of rotor rotation while securing bolts to manufacturer’s recommended
before securing bolts. torque. If bolt torques are correct and symptom con-
tinues to occur once after each application of brake
in reverse, symptom can be ignored.
37 – 54
BARNETT’S MANUAL
5TH EDITION
VOLUME 4:
SUSPENSION
and APPENDIX
by John Barnett,

by John Barnett

Volume 4: Suspension and Appendix
the publisher.
Printed in the USA
VeloPress
1830 N. 55th Street


GUIDE TO VOLUMES
Volume 4 of Barnett’s Manual covers just two topics: suspension forks and rear shocks. In addition, there is an
appendix of reference information that applies to all four volumes.
There are, of course, are a few unavoidable exceptions. For example, when working on suspension forks, the wheel needs to
be removed and reinstalled (Volume 2), the fork needs to be removed from the bike and reinstalled (Volume 2), and the brake
needs to be disconnected and re-attached (Volume 3).
The contents below provide an exact list of what is covered in this volume, chapter by chapter, and a general idea of

CHAPTERS 1 — 15

CHAPTERS 16 — 27

CHAPTERS 28 — 37

38 — SUSPENSION FORKS AND REAR SHOCKS
39 — APPENDIX
38 – SUSPENSION FORKS AND REAR SHOCKS

Stanchion caps
Nylock nut Spring
Spring cap base plate
Preload Split ring

Spring
washers
Circlip
Wavy washer
Valve plate
Cylindrical key
Spring Detent ring

Compression
damper spacers Ball bearing
Damper
adjuster
Rebound
damper
Top-out
spring Spring Spring
(partial) (partial)
Base valve
Adjuster
Wavy
rod
washer
Plastic
washer Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Base valve
plate
Snap ring Shaft cap
Top-out
Coil-spring ring spring
Dust wiper
Snap ring Base valve
Metal washer Plastic washer
Wavy washer
Oil-pressure seal
Plastic washer
Base valve plate
Bushings – 2 in each slider

Slider (not pictured) Slider Snap ring
(partial) (partial)
Crush washer
Crush washer retainer
Hollow bolt
OIL-VISCOSITY TESTING 38 – 5
CANE CREEK REAR SHOCKS 38–6
MANITOU FORK TOOLS 38–9
MANITOU ’00–’01 MAGNUM FORKS 38–10
MANITOU ’02 SIX DELUXE & ’00–’01 SX FORKS 38–14
MANITOU ’98–’01 X-VERT COIL-SPRING FORKS 38–19
MANITOU ’02–’03 SIX & ’03 AXEL FORKS (SPORT, COMP, ELITE, & SUPER) 38–24
MANITOU ’02 MARS & ’03 SKAREB COIL FORKS 38–30
MANITOU ’02–’03 BLACK COIL FORKS (SPORT, COMP, ELITE) 38–34
MANITOU ’03 BLACK ELITE COIL FORK 38–40
MANITOU ’03 SHERMAN FORKS 38–46
MANITOU ’00–’01 MARS & X-VERT AIR-SPRING FORKS 38–51
MANITOU ’02–’03 BLACK AIR FORKS 38–56
MANITOU ’02 MARS & ’03 SKAREB AIR FORKS (ELITE, SUPER, DIVA) 38–62
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’00–’02 NON-CARTRIDGE & INTEGRATED STANCHIONS 38–67
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’00–’02 NON-CARTRIDGE & REMOVABLE STANCHIONS 38–73
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’00–’02 CARTRIDGE & INTEGRATED STANCHIONS 38–78
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’00–’02 CARTRIDGE & REMOVABLE STANCHIONS 38–83
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’02 MXC+ECC AIR 38–88
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’02 MARATHON & ’03 MARATHON SL 29" 38–91
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’00 Z1 X-FLY & Z2 X-FLY 38–95
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’01–’03 SHIVER 38–99
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’03 MX & ’03 JR. T 38–103
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’03 SL MODELS 38–108
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’03 COIL & CARTRIDGE 38–113
MARZOCCHI FORKS: ’03 DIRTJUMPER 38–118
ROCKSHOX OVERVIEW 38–122
ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE 38–123
ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL UNDAMPED FORKS 38–124
ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–124
ROCKSHOX DUAL-COIL OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–128
ROCKSHOX AIR-ASSIST OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–132
ROCKSHOX U-TURN OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–136
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–139
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 38–143
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL HYDRA-AIR FORKS 38–146
ROCKSHOX U-TURN PURE DELITE FORKS 38–150
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL PURE DELITE FORKS 38–154
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR PURE DELITE FORKS 38–157
Continued
Chapter 38 contents (continued)

ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL PURE FORKS 38–161
ROCKSHOX U-TURN PURE FORKS 38–165
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL PURE FORKS 38–169
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR PURE FORKS 38–174
ROCKSHOX REMOTE DAMPER-CONTROL INSTALLATION 38–178
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR CARTRIDGE FORKS 38–179
ROCKSHOX ’00–’03 BOXXER FORKS 38–181
ROCKSHOX ’99–’03 SID REAR SHOCK 38–187
CANNONDALE HEADSHOK 38–188
CANNONDALE LEFTY 38–194
CANNONDALE TELESCOPE-BEARING SERVICE 38–201
FOX ’02–’03 FORKS 38–204
FOX AIR-SHOCK (FLOAT MODELS) 38–211
CANE CREEK REAR SHOCKS MANITOU FORKS (CONTINUED)

AD-4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–68 BLACK SUPER AIR (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . 38–56
AD-5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–68 MAGNUM (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–10
AD-8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–68 MAGNUM R (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–10
AD-10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–68 MARS (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51
CANNONDALE FORKS MARS C (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51
HEADSHOK (’92–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–188 MARS CL (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51
LEFTY (’00–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–194 MARS DIVA (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
TELESCOPE-BEARING SERVICE (’92–’03) . 38–201 MARS COMP (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–30
FOX FORKS MARS ELITE (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51
FLOAT R (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 MARS ELITE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
FLOAT RL (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 MARS SUPER (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
FLOAT RLC (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 MARS SUPER (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51
VANILLA R (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 SIX (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24
VANILLA RL (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 SIX COMP (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24
VANILLA RLC (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–204 SIX DELUXE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14
FOX FLOAT REAR SHOCKS . . . . . . . . . 38–211 SIX ELITE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24
MANITOU FORKS SIX SPORT (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24
AXEL COMP (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24 SIX SUPER (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24
AXEL ELITE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24 SHERMAN BREAKOUT (’03) . . . . . . . . 38–46
AXEL SUPER (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–24 SHERMAN FIREFLY (’03) . . . . . . . . . . 38–46
BLACK COMP 80/100 (’02–’03) . . . . . . 38–34 SHERMAN FLICK (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–46
BLACK COMP LOCKOUT (’02–’03) . . . . . 38–34 SHERMAN SLIDER (’03) . . . . . . . . . . 38–46
BLACK ELITE 80/100 (’02–’03) . . . . . . . 38–34 SKAREB COMP (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–30
BLACK ELITE 100/120 (’02–’03) . . . . . . 38–34 SKAREB DIVA (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
BLACK ELITE AIR (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . 38–56 SKAREB ELITE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
BLACK ELITE COIL (’03) . . . . . . . . . . 38–40 SKAREB SUPER (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–62
BLACK ELITE LOCKOUT (’02–’03) . . . . . 38–34 SX 100 (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14
BLACK SPORT 80/100 (’02–’03) . . . . . . 38–34 SX (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14
BLACK SPORT 100/120 (’02–’03) . . . . . 38–34 SX E (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14
Continued
MODEL INDEX
(Continued)
MANITOU FORKS (CONTINUED) ROCKSHOX FORKS
SX LT (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14 BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE . . . . . . . . . 38–123
SX R (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–14 BOXXER (’01–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–181
X-VERT AIR (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–51 DUKE C AIR (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–139
X-VERT (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–19 DUKE C U-TURN (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–136
X-VERT SUPER (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . 38–19 DUKE RACE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–143
X-VERT SUPERNOVA (’00–’01) . . . . . . . 38–19 DUKE RACE 80 & 100 (’03) . . . . . . . . . 38–169
X-VERT DC (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–19 DUKE SL AIR (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–139
X-VERT CARBON (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . 38–19 DUKE SL AIR (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–154
MARZOCCHI FORKS DUKE SL U-TURN (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–150
DIRTJUMPER (I & II) (’02) . . . . . . . . . 38–67 DUKE XC AIR (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–139
DIRTJUMPER (I, II, & III) (’03) . . . . . . . 38–118 DUKE XC U-TURN (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–136
JR. T (’00–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–73 JUDY C (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–128
JR. T (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–103 JUDY C80/C100 (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . 38–124
MARATHON (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–91 JUDY TT (’01–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–124
MARATHON S (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–113 JUDY RACE (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–128
MARATHON SL (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–108 JUDY SL (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–128
MARATHON SL 29" (’03) . . . . . . . . . 38–91 JUDY SL (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–132
MR. T (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–83 JUDY XC (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–128
MX (COMP & PRO) (’03) . . . . . . . . . . 38–103 JUDY XC (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–132
MXC (AIR & COIL) (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–67 PILOT C (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–124
MXC+ECC AIR (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–88 PILOT SL (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–132
SHIVER DH (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–99 PILOT XC (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–132
SHIVER (DC & SC) (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . 38–99 PSYLO C (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–136
SUPER T (’01–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–83 PSYLO XC (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–136
SUPER T (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–113 PILOT RACE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–146
X-FLY (’01–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–78 PSYLO RACE (’01–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–174
Z1 (CR & QR20) (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–83 PSYLO RACE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–165
Z1 MCR (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–78 PSYLO SL (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–161
Z1 DROPOFF (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–73 PSYLO SL (’02–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–165
Z1 DROPOFF (’01–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–67 PSYLO XC (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–124
Z1 DROPOFF (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–113 REMOTE CONTROL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–178
Z1 FREERIDE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–78 SID 100 (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–146
Z1 FREERIDE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–113 SID RACE (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–179
Z1 FREERIDE SL (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–108 SID RACE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–174
Z1 WEDGE (’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–67 SID RACE (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–157
Z1 X-FLY (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–95 SID SL (’01–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–174
Z2 ATOM (’00–’02) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–78 SID TEAM (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–174
Z2 X-FLY (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–95 SID WORLD CUP (’03) . . . . . . . . . . . 38–174
Z3 (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–67 SID XC (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–146
Z3 QR20 (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–73 ROCKSHOX REAR SHOCKS
Z3.5 (AIR & COIL) (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . 38–67 SID (’99–’03) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–187
Z4 (AIR & COIL) (’00–’01) . . . . . . . . . 38–67
Z5 (AIR & COIL) (’00) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–73
Z5 (AIR & COIL) (’01) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38–67
ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Circlip: Like an internal snap-ring, but with no holes
for snap-ring pliers to engage. The end of the ring needs
This chapter is about suspension forks and shock
to be deflected radially toward the center so that it can be
units used on suspension frames. After some general
pried out of its slot.
information, there are sections for specific types of
Coil spring: A coiled metal wire that compresses
equipment. See this chapter’s contents pages to deter-
under load, then vigorously returns to its original length
mine what equipment is covered and where it is located
when the load is relieved.
in the chapter.
Coil-spring ring: An elastic ring constructed of a
The GENERAL INFORMATION section that begins this
tightly wound coil spring. The coil-spring ring is part of a
chapter covers generic terminology, prerequisites, indi-
seal; its function is to make the soft lip of a seal fit more
cations, time and difficulty ratings for suspension service,
tightly to the shaft or tube that goes through the seal, in
and complications that may occur. Unlike most chapters
order to improve the imperviousness of the seal.
in this manual, this GENERAL INFORMATION section does
Compression: The phase of the suspension
not include a section on tool choices. Instead, the intro-
operation in which the wheel travels up, or travels closer,
duction to each procedure includes tool choices specific
to the frame.
to that section.
Compression rod (or shaft): See plunger shaft.
Compression damping: Restriction of the rate that
the suspension compresses under load.
GENERAL INFORMATION Cylinder: The part of a rear shock in which the piston
slides. It may also be called shock body.
Damping: A function that modifies the rate of sus-
TERMINOLOGY pension compression or rebound.
Air spring: An enclosed body of air that shrinks in Detent: An indentation that causes a rotating adjuster
volume as the suspension is compressed. This reduction to stop at fixed increments. It often operates by means of
in size acts like a spring, because the air has a tendency to a spring-loaded ball bearing pressing into the detent.
return vigorously to its original volume. Dropout: The end of the slider where the wheel
Arch: See slider brace. attaches.
Boot: See dust boot. Durometer: A method of describing the firmness
Bottom-out bumper: A bumper that softens the of an elastomer spring. High-durometer elastomers are
impact that occurs when a suspension is compressed to stiffer.
its limit. See bumper and top-out bumper. Dust boot: A soft, flexible sleeve (usually with an
Bushing: A cylindrical sleeve that acts as a bearing. accordion-like shape) that covers the portion of the stan-
Bumper: A rubber or elastomer device that cushions chion tube that goes in and out of the slider. Dust boot may
the impact of a shock or fork when it reaches the end of be shortened to boot.
its travel. Dust wiper: See wiper seal.
C-clip: A metal ring with a wide gap that allows E-clip: Like a c-clip, but with a third tab on the inner
expansion; the outer perimeter of the ring is a smooth perimeter directly opposite the gap in the clip.
circle, and the ends have two tabs (on the inner perimeter) Elastomer spring: A spring made from a rubber-like
that engage the groove in which the C-clip sits. C-clips substance; when an elastomer spring is compressed, it
sit in grooves on the outside of cylinders. C-clips are tends to return to its original length vigorously. Elasto-
unlike external snap-rings in that they push on and off mers have some potential to provide damping by con-
the side of the cylinder on which they are mounted. verting dynamic energy to heat energy as they heat up
External snap-rings are expanded by a tool called snap- from repeated compression. Elastomer spring will often be
ring pliers so that they can be slipped on and off the shortened to elastomer.
end of the cylinder. External snap-ring: A metal ring with a gap in it
that allows expansion; the inner perimeter of the ring is
38 – 1
a smooth circle, and the ends have two tabs (on the outer suspension unit. In most cases, the comparable part on a
perimeter) with holes that are engaged by snap-ring pliers suspension fork is the stanchion tube.
for purposes of removing and installing the ring. External Plunger shaft: The shaft in a fork that supports the
snap-rings sit in grooves on the outside of cylinders. bottom end of a spring but has no other function (such
Fork crown: The component that joins the stanchion as damping). May be abbreviated to plunger.
tubes to the fork column. Positive spring: A spring that resists the compression
Hydraulic oil: A fluid that is used in some suspension of the fork or shock.
designs to provide damping. It is usually a mineral oil with Preload: A condition of compressing a spring before
special characteristics that determine how it reacts when the operating loads are put on the suspension so that it
exposed to compressed air, how it changes viscosity when its provides a stiffer spring rate.
temperature changes, and how it moves through valves. Rear shock: The spring and/or damper unit that
Inner tubes (or legs): The smaller diameter tubes on provides suspension to a pivoting structure attached to
a fork that insert further inside the larger diameter tubes the rear of a frame.
in order to enable the fork to compress. In most cases Rebound: The phase of the suspension operation in
these are the stanchions, and they are usually the upper which the wheel returns to its original position, following
portion of the fork. completion of the compression phase. When a suspension
Internal snap-ring: A metal ring with a gap that rebounds, it is extending its length.
allows compression. The outer perimeter of the ring is a Rebound damping: Restriction of the rate that the
smooth circle, and the ends have two tabs (on the inner suspension rebounds when load is relieved.
perimeter) with holes that are engaged by snap-ring pliers Sag: The amount a suspension fork compresses under
for purposes of removing and installing the ring. Internal the static load of the rider in a normal riding position.
snap-rings sit in grooves on the inside of cylinders. Seal: A neoprene-rubber ring, sometimes reinforced
Inverted fork: A fork that has the outer tubes at the with a metal washer, that fits tightly between two compo-
upper end. nents in order to prevent escape of oil or air pressure.
Lockout: A control that closes the valve in a damper Seal nut: A threaded cap on the end of a damper
to limit the ability of the shock or fork to change length cylinder or fork tube that includes a seal at the point a
in response to loads. damper shaft passes through the nut.
Lower tube: See slider. Shock oil: See hydraulic oil.
Lowers: The set of lower tubes on a fork. Slider: The tube of a suspension fork that remains
MCU elastomer: This stands for micro-cellular fixed to the wheel. It slides up and down on, or in, the
urethane elastomer. Micro-cellular urethane is full of stanchion as the suspension operates. The comparable
tiny air cells that act like springs when the elastomer is part on a rear shock is the cylinder.
compressed. May be abbreviated to MCU. Slider brace: An arch that joins the two sliders
Negative spring: A spring that applies load in the together. It may also serve as a mount for the cable-
opposite direction of the positive spring, for the purpose housing stop for the front brake. It is sometimes called a
of making the fork or shock compress more easily in brake arch or fork brace.
response to a load. Spring progression: The rate at which the resistance
Neutral shaft: See plunger shaft. of a spring increases as it is compressed.
O-ring: A soft, flexible neoprene-rubber ring Spring rate: The amount of load required to com-
with a round cross-section that is used for sealing and press a spring a specified distance.
retention. Spring stack: A grouping of parts that might include
Oil weight: A description of the relative viscosity of some or all of these parts: multiple springs, spring con-
an oil, such as hydraulic oil. Oils with low weight numbers nectors, washers, and spacers.
(5w or 10w) flow through valves with less resistance; oils Stanchion cap: The cap that covers the top end of
with high weight numbers (15w or 20w) flow through an upper tube.
valves with more resistance. Stanchion clamp: The portion of the fork crown
Outer tubes (or legs): The larger diameter tubes on that clamps around the top of the stanchion tube.
a fork that slide over the smaller diameter tubes in order Stanchion tube: The suspension-fork tube fixed to
to enable the fork to compress. In most cases these are the the fork crown. It remains stationary during the operation
sliders, and they are usually the lower portion of the fork. of the suspension. The comparable part on rear suspen-
Piston: The part of a rear-suspension spring/damper sions is the piston. Stanchions are usually inner tubes, but
that slides back and forth inside the main body of the would be outer tubes on forks that are an inverted design.
38 – 2
Stiction: The tendency of parts that slide against
each other to remain stuck together until adequate force
INDICATIONS
is expended to cause them to begin moving in relation Oil maintenance
to each other. Suspension systems that use oil for damping purposes
Stroke: The distance a rear shock changes in length need periodic oil changes. Oil breaks down and becomes
as it functions. Stroke is related to travel, but the travel of contaminated. Performance and durability can be improved
a rear-suspension structure is a multiple of the stroke, as by periodic oil changes. Oil systems are temperature-range
a result of the combinations of the leverage ratios of the sensitive, so it may be necessary to put in lighter-weight oils
various arms or links in the rear-suspension structure. for cold weather and heavier-weight oils for hot weather.
Suspension: A device that permits a wheel to travel Manufacturers’ recommendations for oil changes range
up and down independently of the rest of the bicycle. from as little as 25 hours of riding to as much as 100 hours
Suspension fork: A bicycle fork that incorporates a of riding, depending on the design of the fork, the severity
suspension device. of riding conditions and riding style, and the amount of
Top-out bumper: A bumper that softens the impact moisture and mud exposure.
that occurs when the load is taken off a suspension so
that the suspension is allowed to rebound to its limit (also
Air pressure maintenance
Air-spring systems can bleed air slowly even when the
called rebound bumper).
seals have not lost their integrity. Periodic pressurization
Top-out spring: A coil spring that softens the
is needed, but probably not as often as for a tire.
impact that occurs when the load is taken off a suspen-
sion and it rebounds to its limit (also called rebound bumper Seal maintenance
or rebound spring). Seals wear out and periodically need replacement. If
Travel: The amount that the wheel moves between seals are not maintained, then they may fail and cause air
the most compressed and most extended states of the pressure loss or oil loss in a suspension system.
suspension.
Upper tube: See stanchion tube.
Bushing maintenance
Bushings are bearings between a fork stanchion tube
Uppers: The set of upper tubes on a fork.
and a slider. When bushings wear they should be replaced.
Valve: A mechanism that controls the flow of oil
Worn bushings cause slop between the stanchion and slider,
between a stanchion and slider, or between a piston
and they cause stiction by allowing the stanchion to misalign
and cylinder.
with the slider when the fork is fully extended.
Viscosity: A description of how a liquid flows. Liq-
uids with high viscosity are thicker and flow less easily or Dirt and lubrication maintenance
quickly than liquids with low viscosity. Dirt contaminates a suspension as the stanchion
or piston goes in or out of the slider or cylinder. Dirt
increases wear and friction, so suspensions should be
PREREQUISITES cleaned periodically. Greases are used to reduce friction
For changing fork oil and enhance seals. Eventually, however, grease dissolves
There are no prerequisites for performing an oil and breaks down. Periodic regreasing of bushings, elasto-
change in most suspension forks except wheel removal mers, and seals improves durability, maintains seal integrity,
and installation. However, it is usually more efficient and reduces stiction.
to remove the fork from the bike, in which case wheel Symptoms indicating
removal, brake caliper removal, and headset disassembly
are required.
need of seal replacement
If an air-spring system fails to hold air pressure
For suspension-fork overhaul for a reasonable time, or leaks oil at the seal, then seal
Wheel removal and brake service are always required. It replacement is needed.
is optional, but recommended, to remove the fork from
the frame, which requires headset overhaul and stem
Symptoms indicating
removal and installation. need of bushing replacement
If the bike exhibits symptoms of a loose headset
For service of rear shocks (but the headset is not loose), then the bushings between
There are usually no prerequisites for any type of the stanchions and sliders in the fork are probably worn
service that can be performed on a rear-suspension out. Clunking sounds when hitting bumps or applying the
spring/damper.
38 – 3
brake, knocking sensations, or a feeling of sloppiness in Bike-Alog (a subscription bicycle-industry database) or the
the handling all may indicate worn bushings. bicycle manufacturers can be a source of this information.
In some cases, the model year of other original equipment
Symptoms indicating on the bike can be a clue, if you have catalogs from those
need of general overhaul component manufacturers.
In addition to the presence of symptoms indicating All manufacturers put a serial number or bar code
need for seal or bushing replacement, problems with on the slider or fork crown. As a last resort, contact the
excess stiction or failure of the suspension mechanism manufacturer and request identification from the serial
to compress or rebound properly indicate that the sus- number or bar code. This may be time consuming.
pension should be fully serviced.
Difficult seal removal on forks
Seals are deliberately a very tight fit. Most forks with
TIME AND DIFFICULTY seals require some sort of puller, but some manufacturers
An oil change on a fork is a 12–20 minute job of expect the mechanic to use brute force. These methods
little difficulty. A spring change on a coil-spring fork is are inconsistent, messy, and potentially dangerous.
a 9–12 minute job of little difficulty. A complete service
of a fork (without bushing and seal replacement) is a Air contamination in rear shocks
55–70 minute job of moderate difficulty. Bushing and seal Certain units are designed to have no air in the cham-
replacement can add 10–25 minutes to a fork service. A ber where there is oil. The presence of air may be noisy,
complete service of a rear shock is a 20–40 minute job or it may interfere with the passage of oil through tiny
of moderate difficulty. Rear linkage pivot service can take valve holes. Furthermore, air can introduce a spring effect.
5–10 minutes per pivot. Special care is required to get the unit assembled without
air getting inside, and in some cases it is required to per-
form the assembly while the whole unit is submerged in
COMPLICATIONS the same hydraulic oil that is going inside the unit.
Difficult year and model identification Frozen bolts in bottom of slider
Unfortunately, manufacturers are not good at marking A number of products put bolts down in the bottom
forks in a way that clearly designates the model and the of the slider, where moisture from condensation collects.
year. Often, what information there is appears on a decal, This can lead to corrosion developing on threads and very
which can be removed or damaged. Marzocchi is the only difficult bolt removal. Persistence and penetrating oil are
company that has consistently put model-year information the only solutions.
on the decals (during the 2000–2003 period).
When it is helpful, the introduction to each procedure
Stripped threads in fork crowns and sliders
Very soft materials, such as aluminum and magnesium,
in this chapter includes a description of the distinguishing
are used in certain sliders and fork crowns. Internal threads
characteristics of the covered models and model years.
in these parts strip easily when bolts are over-tightened.
If you have a collection of manufacturers’ literature with
Use Loctite to eliminate the need for higher torques, and
images of the models, then decal styles, slider-casting styles,
always use torque wrenches.
and fork-crown styles can help identify the model year.
Several manufacturers have a two-digit year indication Unreplaceable bushings
cast into the back face of the sliders. This may be on the Some poorly designed forks rely on bushings that
back of the arch, or the back face or inside face of the are a permanent part of the slider or the stanchion tube.
bottom end of one of the slider tubes. This year informa- The only way to replace these bushings is to replace the
tion is not necessarily the model year, because it typically slider or stanchion, which is usually impractical (due to
indicates the date the casting went into production, which price or availability).
can be one year ahead of the model year, since next-year
models are introduced in the middle of the preceding year.
Wear on impractical-to-replace parts
Some forks are designed so that the bushings slide up
If the same casting was used for several model years, this
and down against the inside surface of an aluminum or
information might be more than one year earlier than the
magnesium slider. These softer materials wear out easily;
actual model year.
replacement is usually impractical (due to price or avail-
When the fork is original equipment on a bike, and
ability). Stanchion tubes can fail in two ways: The surface
the model year of the bike can be identified, this can be
may become nicked or scratched so that seal integrity is lost,
a good indicator of the model year of the fork or shock.
or the stanchions may become bent from excessive load.
38 – 4
Clip failure OIL-VISCOSITY TESTING

The clips used in suspensions are delicate; expansion Viscosity testing is needed for two reasons. First, there
or compression is required to install them, and they are is no way to know what oil is being removed from a sus-
easily damaged. If slightly deformed, they may appear to be pension without testing. If the original oil is unknown,
secure, but may fail during use. There may be a great deal then there is no way to know what might be suitable as
of load placed on these clips. Most clips have asymmetrical a replacement. Second, manufacturers’ weight ratings of
faces; the flatter face has sharp corners on the edges, and their own oils are often unreliable. By testing, it is possible
the less-flat face has more rounded corners on the edges. to know how different oils compare. Because weights are
As a rule, always install these clips so that the flatter side misleading, table 38-1 simply ranks all bicycle suspen-
faces away from the direction of the load (or pressure), that sion oils at eight relative levels. Oils that test similarly in
is, against the item being retained by the clip. the viscosity test are grouped together, regardless of the
Hydraulic-oil toxicity manufacturers’ weight designations.
The fluids used in oil-damped systems may be toxic. Viscosity testing of suspension oil
Minimize your exposure and wear rubber gloves while The viscosity of shock-fork oil has a large impact on
working with these units. the performance of the fork. The oil-viscosity table (page
RELATIVE VISCOSITY TABLE FOR BICYCLE SUSPENSION OILS (table 38-1)

Viscosity level 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Drain Time 22sec 33sec 40sec 50sec 59sec 77sec 86sec 140sec
Finish Line 2.5wt 5wt 5wt/10wt 10wt 10wt/15wt 15wt 15wt/20wt 20wt
1:1 1:1 3:1
Buzzy’s1 3wt 5wt 5wt/7wt 7wt/10wt 7wt/10wt N/A N/A N/A
1:4 2:1 1:2
RockShox N/A 5wt 5wt/10wt 5wt/10wt 5wt/10wt 15wt N/A N/A
1:1 1:2 1:3
Maxima2 N/A 5wt N/P N/P 7.5wt N/P 10wt N/A
Marzocchi N/A N/A N/A 7.5wt N/A N/A N/A N/A
Spectro SX-4003 N/A N/A N/A 5wt4 N/A N/A N/A N/A
Spectro Golden N/A 85/1505 85/125 125/1506 N/A N/A N/A N/A
1:1
Motorex7 N/A 5wt N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
Mountainspeed N/A N/A N/A 5wt 5wt/10wt 10wt N/A N/A
1:1
1
Also known as Englund’s.
2
Used in Manitou forks through 2002, not compatible with 2003 and later Manitou forks.
3
Stock oil brand in Cannondale Headshock and Lefty forks.
4
This Spectro is not the same makeup as the Golden Spectro, and cannot be used in blends with the other Spectro oils.
5
May be sold as 2.5wt.
6
May be sold as 7.5wt.
7
This is stock oil in Manitou forks starting in 2003.
For each brand and viscosity level, a weight or weight blend is shown. A weight blend is a two-part number, indi-
cating the weights to be blended and the ratio of the blend. For example, the blend of Buzzy’s oil for viscosity level 3
is “5wt/7wt, 1:4.” This means mix one part of Buzzy’s 5wt with 4 parts of Buzzy’s 7wt. DO NOT MIX BRANDS!
If a brand is marked N/P (not permitted) at certain viscosity levels, then that brand does not endorse blending. The
N/A mark means no oil or oil blend was available at that level for that brand (at the time the table was created).
If desiring a matching viscosity for the new oil, choose a viscosity level with a drain time that is within three sec-
onds of the time you measure for the existing oil. If desiring a reduction in damping, choose a lower viscosity level.
If desiring an increase in damping, choose a higher viscosity level. Consider a change of one level to be minor, two
levels to be major, and three levels to be drastic.
38 – 5
38-5) and oil viscosity-test procedure (following) can help also virtually no difference between the AD-8 and AD-10.
the mechanic estimate the current relative viscosity of a There are small technique differences between the 4 or 5
shock oil. and the 8 or 10, but one procedure with notations about
When a shock fork is disassembled, most mechanics the differences follows. The AD-12 is comparable to the
simply remove the old oil and dump it in the recycling AD-10, so follow all AD-10 notations when working on
barrel. The new oil selected may be quite different than and AD-12.
the old oil. This will, of course, affect the handling in a
way which may or may not be desired by the customer. It
is possible to determine the approximate viscosity of the TOOLS
old oil, then compare it to known viscosities of popular There are no special tools provided by the manu-
brands. It is likely that the old oil is dirty. This particulate facturer for working on these shocks. The AD-4 and
matter may, in fact, have changed the viscosity of the oil. AD-8 have a large ring that is unthreaded by hand that
However, because the dirty oil is what the customer was can be difficult to break loose. Wrapping a large rubber
most currently using, it is still appropriate to test the old band around the ring, such as the rubber band that comes
oil. Remember that the test rates the “effective viscosity” in Aheadset packages, improves grip. A section of inner
of the old oil, not necessarily its original viscosity. tube also works, but not quite as well.
Needed testing equipment

The test results in table 38-1 were achieved at a tem- FULL SHOCK SERVICE
perature of approximately 68º–72º Fahrenheit. A 20cc Services include cleaning and lubrication, replacement
oral syringe (with 20mm I.D. and a 1.8mm orifice) and a of seals when air leaks develop, and changing the valving
stopwatch are the only tools required. The specific brand for tuning purposes (AD-4 and AD-5 only).
of syringe used to create this table was Monoject. Disassembly
Viscosity-test procedure 1. [ ] Depress valve plunger to deflate shock.
2. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Loosen compression
1. [ ] If testing used oil, strain oil through cof-
fee filter to remove particles. New or used, and rebound adjusters to just short of point
make sure oil is close to 68º–72º to get where O-rings are revealed.
comparable results to table 38-1. 3. [ ] Clamp body eyelet carefully into soft jaws in
2. [ ] Remove syringe plunger and place syringe vise (use rag to protect finish).
tip down into top of clear plastic bottle. If 4. [ ] Wrap wide rubber band around black ring at
syringe is close fit, poke breathing hole in top of body to improve grip, then turn ring
top of bottle. counterclockwise to unthread.
3. [ ] Pour oil to be tested into syringe until it 5. [ ] Pull up on shaft to remove shaft/piston
reaches 20cc line, then start stopwatch assembly from shock body.
when level drops to 15cc line. 6. [ ] Clamp eyelet end of shaft assembly in the
4. [ ] Stop timer when syringe is empty and drips soft jaws in vise (protect finish with rag).
are hanging from syringe tip for a moment 7. [ ] Use pin spanner (Park SPA-1) to unthread
before releasing. piston.
5. [ ] Consider results within plus or minus three 8. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Remove compression
seconds of time values listed in the Drain- cylinder and compression washer from inside
Time row of table 38-1 to be matching. If of shaft assembly, and record compression
results fall between two levels, select clos- washer thickness here: _______
est level, or blend a different ratio for more 9. [ ] AD-4 and AD-8: Pull seal head off shaft,
precise match. then inspect and remove damaged seals and
O-rings.
AD-5 and AD-10: Pull lockring off shaft
assembly, then pull seal bushing off shaft
CANE CREEK REAR SHOCKS assembly. Inspect and remove damaged seals
and O-rings from lockring and seal bushing.
10. [ ] AD-4 and AD-5 only: Pull up on white plastic
ABOUT THIS SECTION plug to remove it from volume adjusting plate.

AD-8 and AD-10 only: Pull on aluminum
This section applies to the following models: AD-4, adjuster rod to remove it from volume
AD-5, AD-8, and AD-10. Procedurally, there is virtually adjusting plate.
no difference between the AD-4 and AD-5, and there is
38 – 6
Lockring
Seal bushing LEGEND
AD-4
Seal head
AD-5
AD-8
AD-10
Compression
adjusting rod
Shaft
Rebound
adjusting rod
Damping
C R
adjusters Compression
shim
Compression
cylinder
Rebound
valve
Compression
shim
Piston
Ramp
housing
Circlip
Rebound
adjuster ramp
Compression
adjuster ramp
Plug
Circlip
Volume
adjusting
plate
Cylinder
38.1 Cane Creek AD-4, AD-5, AD-8, and AD-10 shocks.
38 – 7
11. [ ] Remove shaft from vise, then insert rubber- 24. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Thread silver adjusting
tipped blow gun into hole in volume adjusting screw into hole marked “C” and black adjust-
plate and use compressed air to force out ing screw into hole marked “R,” taking care
plate. NOTE: Be prepared for plate and not to deform or tear O-rings. Thread in bolts
two small plastic adjusting ramps to fly just until first calibration mark on smooth bolt
out of shaft! shaft reaches the top of hole.
12. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Inspect inside shaft 25. [ ] AD-4 and AD-5 only: Insert white plug into
for valve adjuster ramps that may have volume adjusting plate.
remained in shaft during step 11. AD-8 and AD-10 only: Grease blunt end of
13. [ ] Inspect and remove damaged O-rings from adjuster-rod assembly, mate valve adjuster
volume adjusting plate. ramps together, then install ramp assembly
14. [ ] Remove compression and rebound adjusters onto blunt end of adjuster-rod assembly.
fully. O-rings will provide light resistance to Insert assembly into ramp housing inside
removal after threads are disengaged. shaft so that slope of ramps face toward
15. [ ] Use 8mm socket to remove valve nut from holes for valve adjusters.
bottom face of piston. 26. [ ] Insert volume adjusting plate into shaft,
16. [ ] Remove washer, then remove compression smooth-face up, until it seats fully.
valve shim and record thickness here: ______ 27. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Place compression
valve shim on top of valve adjusting rod,
Cleaning then place compression cylinder (notched
17. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry end first) on top of compression valve shim.
with compressed air and/or lint-free rag. 28. [ ] Thread in and secure piston.
Volume adjustment 29. [ ] Grease inside of shock body with recom-
18. [ ] If it is desired to change volume to change mended grease, then carefully slide over pis-
spring rate, carefully remove circlip inside ton.
shaft and move to higher groove to 30. [ ] Turn shock over and carefully grasp body
increase spring rate, or lower groove to eyelet in vise.
decrease spring rate. 31. [ ] AD-4 and AD-8 only: Thread seal head into
shock body as far as it will go (wrap with
Assembly rubber band to improve grip).
19. [ ] Replace all damaged O-rings and seals that AD-5 and AD-10 only: Slide bushing seal as
were removed, then grease all O-rings. far as it will go into body, then slide lockring
20. [ ] Install compression shim, small washer, and over seal bushing and thread it onto body
then valve nut into piston. (until lockring covers half of wire clip at end
21. [ ] AD-4 and AD-8 only: Slide seal head onto of body threads).
closed end of shaft, threaded-end first. 32. [ ] Inflate shock. Cover with soapy water to
AD-5 and AD-10 only: Install seal bushing check for leaks.
(small end first) over closed end of shaft,
then install lockring (knurled-end first) over
closed end of shaft. TUNING OPTIONS
22. [ ] Secure eyelet end of shaft into vise (open-
end up). Air pressure
23. [ ] AD-8 and AD-10 only: Inspect ramp hous- A simple formula can be used to determine an appro-
ing inside shaft unit. It must be aligned priate pressure for the shock, depending on the rider’s
with its center divider parallel to axis of weight: rider’s weight (in pounds) + 10 = pressure (in psi).
holes for adjuster bolts. Push one adjuster If the rider finds the suspension bottoms out too frequently,
bolt into its hole to see if tip of bolt appears the pressure should be increased. If the rider finds the
inside ramp housing. If not, try rotating suspension is too stiff, pressure should be reduced. Adjust-
ramp housing 180°. ments should be made in 5lb increments.
In the next step, when the bolts with O-rings are
inserted into the holes in the shaft, it is difficult not to Air volume
damage the O-rings by catching them on the lips of the These shocks have a volume adjusting plate in the
holes. Use a small chamfering tool to chamfer the holes shaft section of the shock. Changing the volume changes
and it will be no problem. how progressive the spring is. For example, with the plate
adjusted to reduce volume, even if the starting pressure is
constant, it will take more force to compress the suspension
38 – 8
fully. The suspension will be progressively more stiff the
more it is compressed and less likely to bottom on big hits. MANITOU FORK TOOLS
Conversely, if the plate is adjusted to increase volume, even Servicing Manitou forks requires several unique tools
if the starting pressure is constant, it will take less force to used for Manitou forks only and also requires some general
compress the suspension fully. The suspension will be less suspension-specific tools that are used when servicing
stiff when it is compressed the same amount, and the ride several brands of forks. The unique tools fall into two
will be softer. categories: bushing-service tools and lubrication tools. The
general suspension tools include a variety of customized
Compression and rebound adjusters sockets, a long extension, oral syringes for hydraulic oil,
The AD-8 and AD-10 have external adjusters for com- and an optional oil-level gauge.
pression and rebound damping. They are clearly marked.
The rider should determine the optimal settings by using
simple trial and error. The AD-4 and AD-5 have no external BUSHING-SERVICE TOOLS
adjustment, but rebound damping can be adjusted by means Manitou has had three different series of bushing
of replacing the valve nut with one with a different-size removal and installation tools as of 2003.
orifice, and compression damping is adjusted by changing The original tool (not made since 1999) worked
a valve shim washer inside the shock. with forks that had 28.6mm or 30.0mm stanchions. The
directions in this manual do not describe the use of this
AD-4 and AD-5 compression shim washers vintage of tool.
Cane Creek makes available a tuning kit with an The next tool set was manufactured from 2000
assortment of thicknesses of compression shim wash- through 2002. It worked with forks that had 25.4mm,
ers. Changing the compression washer is the only way 28.6mm, or 30.0mm stanchions. The directions in this
to change the compression damping on the AD-4 and manual cover the use of this tool set. The bushing
AD-5. The washer(s) should be changed on the AD-8 and remover from this period was Answer tool #85-309, and
AD-10 only if the external adjuster cannot be loosened the installer was Answer tool #85-3911.
or tightened enough to achieve the desired amount of The most recent tool set was introduced in 2003. It
damping. All models have a compression washer that is includes a kit (#85-5193) that contains all the common
removed in step #16 (of the preceding procedure) from parts to the bushing remover and installer that do not
beneath the valve nut. Another compression washer is the change when the stanchion diameter changes, as well as
washer removed in step #9 (AD-8 and AD-10 only). a kit including all the size-specific tool parts for bushing
Three washers are available with thickness measure- removal and installation. The size-specific kits are:
ments of .10mm, .15mm, and .20mm. These increments 25.4mm stanchions #85-5191
are large, so in most cases a change of one step up or 28.6mm stanchions #85-5189
down should be the most attempted at first. 30.0mm stanchions #85-5194
AD-4 and AD-5 valve orifice diameter 32.0mm stanchions #85-5192
The tuning kit also includes three sizes of valve nuts, Bushing removers
with orifice diameters of .56mm, .61mm, and .66mm. The remover tool consists of the following parts:
These are used to adjust the rebound damping on the Tube with lip on one end and threads on other –
AD-4 and AD-5 only. Smaller orifice size creates greater “column”
damping. To identify the size of the installed valve or the Aluminum knurled cylinder – “handle”
replacement valve, look for a number stamped on the side Short cylinder split along its length – “expander”
of the valve. The number 6 indicates the smallest size, 7 7–1/2" tube – “long tube”
the middle size, and 8 the largest size. Unfortunately, early Steel knurled cylinder on acme-threaded shaft–
production runs of the shocks and the tune-up kits had “slide hammer”
unmarked valves. In this case, the only way to identify The #85-309 remover has two of everything above,
the size is by purchasing very rare drill bits in wire sizes except the slider hammer (one) and the expanders (three).
#71 and #73. If the #71 fits in the hole, then it is the The expanders are identified by measuring the wall-thick-
largest. If the #71 doesn’t fit, but the #73 does fit, it is ness. The 1.2mm wall-thickness expander fits forks with
the middle size. If neither fits, then it is the smallest size. 25.4mm stanchions. The 1.4mm wall-thickness expander fits
These inexpensive drill bits are available from Grainger forks with 28.6mm stanchions. The 2.0mm wall-thickness
Industrial Supply (www.grainger.com) and are part num- expander fits forks with 30.0mm stanchions. The 3.0mm
bers 1F945 and 1F950. wall-thickness expander fits forks with 32.0mm stanchions.
38 – 9
If this tool set is missing parts needed for any these fork needed. For forks with oil lubrication, an oral syringe with
diameters, or it needs to be upgraded to work with forks at least a 20cc capacity is needed.
with 32.0mm stanchions, there are kits available for each
stanchion diameter. These kits include the remover-tool
parts and the installer-tool parts that are unique for each OIL-LEVEL TOOLS
stanchion diameter. The kits are: When adjusting oil level, a caliper or machinist’s rule
25.4mm stanchions #85-5191 can be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121)
28.6mm stanchions #85-5189 is more convenient. This tool has a calibrated straw attached
30.0mm stanchions #85-5194 to a syringe. An adjustable stop plate on the straw is set to the
32.0mm stanchions #85-5192 desired oil depth, then the straw is inserted into the oil and
the plate rests on the stanchion. When the syringe plunger is
Bushing installers pulled up, only the oil above the desired level is sucked out.
The installation tool consists of the following parts:
12" threaded rod – “shaft”
Multi-stepped cylinder, measuring 25.5mm, GENERAL SUSPENSION TOOLS
28.5mm, 30mm, or 32mm diameter at its sec- When servicing these forks, there are frequent occa-
ond-largest point – “installation mandrel” sions to use sockets on low-profile plastic or aluminum
Two-step cylinder – “sizing mandrel” fittings. These types of fittings require modification of
Donut-shaped rings – “sizing rings” the sockets to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets have
25.4mm O.D. cylinder, 17mm-long – “17mm a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to start a
spacer” millimeter or more from the end of the socket. File or
Sleeve with calibrations – “depth gauge” grind the socket ends so the flats start immediately at the
3"-long sleeve – “upper sleeve” end of the socket. For Manitou forks, 20mm, 24mm, and
Round plate with slot – “slotted plate” 27mm are the socket sizes that need this modification.
Knurled steel cylinder with hole in one end – In addition to common-size hex keys, bit sockets, and
“weight” other wrenches, a 10" drive extension and a 7/16" socket
The ’00–’02 vintage #85-3911 installer included every- are needed on several models.
thing in the above list to fit 25.4mm, 28.6mm, and 30.0mm
stanchion forks including various sizes of installation
mandrels, sizing rings, depth gauges, and upper sleeves.
If this tool set is missing parts needed for any these fork MANITOU ’00–’01
diameters, or it needs to be upgraded to work with forks
with 32.0mm stanchions, there are kits available for each
MAGNUM FORKS
stanchion diameter. These kits include the remover-tool
parts and the installer-tool parts that are unique for each ABOUT THIS SECTION
stanchion diameter. The kits are: This section covers the 2000-2001 Manitou Magnum
25.4mm stanchions #85-5191 models including the Magnum and Magnum R. Whenever
28.6mm stanchions #85-5189 a procedure is different for these two models, the alternate
30.0mm stanchions #85-5194 steps are clearly marked.
32.0mm stanchions #85-5192
The ’03 remover/installer tool #81-5193 only includes
the non-size-specific parts from the items list above and TOOL REQUIREMENTS
requires the addition of the four size-specific kits listed See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
in the preceding paragraph to work with forks of all
stanchion diameters. STICTION CORRECTION
If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly and
LUBRICATION TOOLS fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess fric-
Manitou forks either have Microlube grease ports on tion between the stanchions and the bushings). The Mag-
the backs of the sliders, or they are lubricated by injecting num fork models can be lubricated without disassembly
oil during assembly. For bushing lubrication on forks with by using the Prep M grease gun. As of 2003, Manitou
Microlube, a Manitou Prep M grease gun (#85-3812) is changed their Prep M grease from a Maxima product
(green) to a Motorex product (amber). The greases should
38 – 10
not be mixed. If the matching grease is not available, then Spring removal
the slider should be removed and cleaned of the other 1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully
grease before adding new grease. counterclockwise, counting turns: _________
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. 2. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left stanchion
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each cap.
slider so they are free of dirt. 3. [ ] Remove stanchion cap from left side, then
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past pull out cap and spring. If coil spring does
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper not come out, there are parts left behind
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease (turn fork over to retrieve them).
into each Microlube port.
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, Right-leg disassembly
observing whether stiction is reduced. 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan-
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary chion cap (leave in place for now).
to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution 5. [ ] Magnum R only: Withdraw compression
because injecting too much grease can force damper from top of stanchion (be prepared
upper bushing out top of slider. An increase in for oil to spill).
force required to pump grease indicates grease Magnum only: Remove right stanchion cap.
cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in 6. [ ] Magnum R only: While pumping fork gently,
forks with badly worn bushings. pour oil out of right leg into waste receptacle.
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
attach boots. (stock is 5wt).
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn, Slider and shaft removal
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush- 8. [ ] Attach 6mm bit socket to long extension,
ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which then insert extension into fitting inside bot-
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/ tom of left stanchion (hole may be difficult
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually to find). Turn counterclockwise at least 6
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised. turns, then withdraw tools.
9. [ ] Repeat previous step for right side.
10. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions (note
OIL CHANGE ONLY whether oil is in sliders), then remove boots.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping 11. [ ] Remove C-clip from both shafts, then slide
bottom-out bumpers off shafts.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
12. [ ] Magnum R only: Slide left shaft out top of
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7.
stanchion.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 49 (ignore adjust-
Magnum only: Slide both shafts out tops of
ing final oil level).
stanchions.
13. [ ] Magnum R only: Remove top-out bumper
4. [ ] Repeat step 49 (do adjust final oil level).
from left shaft.
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 50.
Magnum only: Remove top-out bumpers
from both shafts.
SPRING CHANGE ONLY 14. [ ] Magnum R only: Push rebound-damper shaft
into seal nut (leaving 1/2" sticking out), then
2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly. use 11/16" socket to unthread seal nut from
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 47. bottom end of right stanchion.
The original preload setting will probably need to be Cleaning and inspection
changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS 15. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
at the end of this section). with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
plastic and rubber parts!
FULL FORK SERVICE 16. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical slider tube, seal nut needs replacement).
position with back side facing you for follow- 17. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. dropouts for bends and cracks.
38 – 11
Stanchion Compression
cap damper * Stanchion cap
(preload adjuster)
Elastomer spring
Coil spring
Top-out connector
bumper
Boot
(2)
Plunger Rebound
shaft damper *
Coil spring
Shaft guide Seal Top-out bumper

nut
* Shaft guide
Bumper
Clip Bottom-out
bumper
Clip
* Magnum R only Plunger shaft
Bushing
Slider (partial)
Slider (partial)
38.2 Manitou Magnum fork (Magnum R variations marked with *).
38 – 12
18. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating on 30. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
bushings will be partially missing, exposing through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
brass flecks or metal base material, if bush- TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
ings are worn out. wrench to tighten nut.
19. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper 31. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide
shaft for scratches or wear marks. whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel,
Bushing removal reassemble tool with 1.005 and then 1.004
For information on bushing removal and installation sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. tight, use 1.006 and then 1.005 sizes (etc.).
NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings are not being When satisfied with fit, assemble installa-
replaced. tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on
20. [ ] Install expander with 1.2mm wall thickness sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then
(tapered-end first) on small column, then larger sizing ring).
install smaller long tube. 32. [ ] Place larger O.D. bushing over sizing rings
21. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle, and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
then thread handle onto column. of Loctite 680 on bushing.
22. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use 33. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
slide hammer to push expander through first of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- drel is only partially above top of slider.
mately even with top of slider brace). 34. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
23. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up).
hammer to pull bushing from slider. 35. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
24. [ ] Repeat steps 22–23 for remaining bushings through bushing. Remove tools, then install
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider bushings in other slider.
for each lower bushing).
Shaft and slider installation
Bushing installation 36. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders.
For information on bushing removal and installation NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. 37. [ ] Magnum R only: Place threaded end of seal
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one nut onto threaded end of rebound (right)
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For shaft, then thread seal nut into bottom of
example, 1.003 and 1.004 can be used together, but 1.003 right stanchion and gently secure (<10in-
lbs). NOTE: Seal-nut lip must seat against
and 1.005 cannot be used together. Always start installation
stanchion.
with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to
38. [ ] Magnum R only: Install small cylindrical top-
the stanchions. If the fit proves too tight, then use the out bumper on left shaft.
next larger pair on the mandrel instead. Magnum only: Install small cylindrical top-
25. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following out bumper on both shafts.
order to either end of shaft: 39. [ ] Magnum only: Insert shaft into top of right
nut stanchion so end of shaft comes out bottom
25.5mm mandrel (large-end first) of stanchion.
1.003 sizing ring 40. [ ] Install 6mm bit socket on long extension
17mm spacer into top of left plunger shaft, then use tool
1.004 sizing ring to insert shaft assembly into top of left stan-
washer chion (leave tool engaged to shaft).
nut 41. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully onto both
26. [ ] Secure nuts together with assembly fully at shafts (small-end first, if any), then engage
end of shaft, then install third nut on other clips in slots in both shafts.
end of shaft just until it is engaged. 42. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions.
27. [ ] Place smaller O.D. bushing over sizing rings 43. [ ] Push slider assembly fully onto stanchions.
and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
680 on bushing. 44. [ ] Turn extension clockwise to fully engage left
28. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on shaft into slider and secure to 10in-lbs.
top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
like it has “bottomed.”
29. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
and against end of slider (flat-face up).
38 – 13
45. [ ] Engage 6mm bit socket and extension into MAGNUM RIDE KITS
right shaft, then turn extension clockwise
Model Color Rider weights Part #
to fully engage right shaft into slider and
secure to 10in-lbs. All Blue 100-150lbs 85-9124
46. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider All Red 150-170lbs 85-9125
fully. All Yellow >170lbs 85-9126
47. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
heavy grease and insert into left leg, then Rebound damping adjustment
secure cap to 30in-lbs. The Magnum R has non-adjustable rebound damping,
48. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1.
but changing oil weight can change the amount of damp-
Right leg assembly ing. The recommended oil is 5wt. Increasing the weight
49. [ ] Magnum R only: Fill leg until surface of increases damping, and decreasing the weight reduces
oil is approximately 100mm below top of damping. Make changes by small increments.
fork crown, pump slider up and down until The Magnum has no damping.
bubbles stop rising in oil, then adjust final oil
level to correct value from following table. Compression-damping adjustment
NOTE: Unacceptable oil level can severely Only the Magnum R has compression damping. It
compromise fork performance and rider is non-adjustable, but changing the oil weight changes
safety. Under no conditions set an oil level the level of damping. Any change made will affect the
outside the acceptable range! rebound damping in the same way, and possibly to a
MAGNUM R OIL DEPTHS higher degree. The recommended oil is 5wt. Increasing
Model Max. level Ideal level Min. level the weight increases damping, and decreasing the weight
00 Magnum R 89mm 101mm 120mm reduces damping. Make changes by small increments.
01 Magnum R 95mm 108mm 120mm
50. [ ] Magnum R only: Thread in compression
damper and secure to 30in-lbs.
Magnum only: Thread in right stanchion cap
MANITOU ’02 SIX DELUXE
and secure to 30in-lbs.
51. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
& ’00–’01 SX FORKS
to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
Microlube port on back side of sliders. ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2002 Manitou Six Deluxe
TUNING OPTIONS model and the 2000-2001 SX models (SX LT, SX 100,
SX, SX R, and SX E). This section does not cover the
Sag adjustment ’02 Manitou Six Comp, Elite, or Super models, which
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the are covered elsewhere in this chapter. There are no ’02
rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding SX models or Six Deluxe models before ’02. Although
position. The preload knob on top of the left leg this section is not specifically for ’99 SX models, it can
adjusts the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces sag. There be used as a rough guide for these, as well. The primary
are approximately eight full turns of adjustment. For differences of the ’99 SX models are that the spring and
these forks, the recommended sag is 12–16mm. If there damper sides are reversed, the bushings must be greased
is too much sag with a full clockwise adjustment of during assembly since there are no Microlube ports, and
the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier weight range the ride kits listed in the TUNING OPTIONS section are
is needed. If there is too little sag with a full coun- not applicable. The ’99 SX E is also different in that
terclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a ride the SX E only and All except SX E references in the
kit for a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct procedure do not apply, since this fork has oil damping,
sag has been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding unlike the ’01 SX E.
style, the rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride An Anti-Bob (or Lok-Out) compression damper was
kit for a heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never an option on some of these forks.
bottoms the fork due to a very non-aggressive riding
style, a ride kit for a lighter rider will provide a more
comfortable ride. TOOL REQUIREMENTS
See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
38 – 14
STICTION CORRECTION The original preload setting will probably need to be

changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
at the end of this section).
fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess friction
between the stanchions and the bushings). The Six fork
models can be lubricated without disassembly by using FULL FORK SERVICE
the Prep M grease gun. As of 2003, Manitou changed NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
their Prep M grease from a Maxima product (green) to clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
a Motorex product (amber). The greases should not be position with back side facing you for follow-
mixed. If the matching grease is not available, then the ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
slider should be removed and cleaned of the other grease Spring removal
before adding new grease. 1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. counterclockwise, counting turns: _________
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each 2. [ ] Use 27mm socket to remove stanchion cap
slider so they are free of dirt. from left side, then pull out cap and spring
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past assembly (if elastomers and/or coil spring do
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper not come out, turn fork over so remaining
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease spring parts will fall out). NOTE: Use fingers
into each Microlube port. (or pliers if necessary) on models without
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, wrench flats.
observing whether stiction is reduced.
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as nec- Right-leg disassembly
essary to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use cau- 3. [ ] Use 27mm socket to unthread right stan-
tion because injecting too much grease can chion cap (leave in place for now). NOTE:
force upper bushing out top of slider. An Use fingers (or pliers if necessary) on models
increase in force required to pump grease without wrench flats.
indicates grease cavity is full, but this won’t 4. [ ] All except Lok-Out and SX E: Withdraw
be experienced in forks with badly worn compression damper from top of stanchion
bushings. (be prepared for oil to spill).
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then Lok-Out only: Pull damper up until resis-
attach boots. tance is felt, then continue to pull up gently
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn, while applying a circular rocking motion to
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease stanchion cap until damper pulls up effort-
lessly (be prepared for oil to spill).
cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush-
SX E only: Withdraw stanchion cap.
ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which 5. [ ] All except SX E: While pumping fork gently,
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/ pour oil out of right leg into waste receptacle.
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually 6. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised. (stock is 5wt).
Slider and shaft removal
OIL CHANGE ONLY NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 7. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot-
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping tom of left leg. If necessary, use 6mm bit
socket on extension to keep shaft inside bot-
tom of left stanchion from turning.
8. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Pull rebound-damper
knob off bottom of right leg.
9. [ ] All except SX E: Use 8mm hex key or bit
socket to remove hollow bolt in bottom of
right slider.
SX E only: Use 4mm hex key to unthread
bolt on bottom of right leg. If necessary, use
SPRING CHANGE ONLY 6mm bit socket on extension to keep shaft
inside bottom of left stanchion from turning.
2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly. Remove reducer bushing from hole in slider.
38 – 15
10. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions (note 26. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle,
whether oil is in sliders), then remove boots. then thread handle onto column.
11. [ ] All except SX E: Remove clip and bottom- 27. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use
out bumper(s) from left-side shaft. slide hammer to push expander through first
SX E only: Remove clip and bottom-out bushing (until top of long tube is approxi-
bumper(s) from both shafts. mately even with top of slider brace).
12. [ ] Slide left shaft out top of stanchion (both 28. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide
sides on SX E). hammer to pull bushing from slider.
13. [ ] Remove top-out bumper from left shaft. 29. [ ] Repeat steps 27–28 for remaining bushings
14. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Rotate rebound- (except tool can be inserted fully into slider
damper shaft until bearing trapped under for each lower bushing).
clear plastic sleeve is visible on top of shaft,
then remove sleeve and bearing. Bushing installation
15. [ ] All except SX E: Use snap-ring pliers to In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one
remove clip from end of shaft, then remove time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For
washer and bottom-out bumper. example, 1.128 and 1.129 can be used together, but 1.128
16. [ ] All except SX E: Push rebound-damper shaft and 1.130 cannot be used together. Always start installation
into seal nut (leaving 1/2" sticking out), then with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to
use 24mm socket to unthread seal nut from the stanchions. If the fit proves too tight, then use the
bottom end of right stanchion. next larger pair on the mandrel instead.
17. [ ] All except SX E: Remove damper assembly 30. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following
from stanchion, then remove seal nut from order to either end of shaft:
shaft. nut
18. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Use damper knob 28.5mm mandrel (large-end first)
to unthread adjusting rod in end of rebound- 1.128 sizing ring
damper shaft, then apply sidewise leverage 17mm spacer
to the knob while withdrawing adjusting rod 1.129 sizing ring
from damper shaft. washer
19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals, nut
then pry seals out of top ends of sliders. 31. [ ] Secure nuts together with assembly fully at
Cleaning and inspection end of shaft, then install third nut on other
20. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry end of shaft just until it is engaged.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 32. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
plastic and rubber parts! 680 on bushing.
21. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears 33. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
slider tube, seal nut needs replacement). like it has “bottomed.”
22. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and 34. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
dropouts for bends and cracks. and against end of slider (flat-face up).
23. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Cream-colored 35. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
plastic coating in bushings will be partially through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
missing, exposing metal base material, if TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
bushings are worn out. wrench to tighten nut.
24. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper- 36. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then larger sizing ring).
install long tube. 37. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
of Loctite 680 on bushing.
38 – 16
Plunger
shaft Stanchion
Compression cap
Seal damper
Bushing
Elastomer
Bushing spring
Connector
Top-out Elastomer
bumper spring
Coil spring
connector
Coil
spring
Slider
Rebound
damper
Boot (2)
Detent
bearing
Hollow
bolt
Seal
Shaft guide
nut
5mm bolt Clip
Rebound Bumper
Bottom-out
adjuster bumper
Bumper
Bottom-out
Stanchions
bumper
38.3 A representative Manitou SX or Six Deluxe fork. Some models have no rebound or compression dampers.
38 – 17
38. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top Repeat exactly for second side, except install
of shaft with weight until nut on top of man- reducer bushing in bottom of slider before
drel is only partially above top of slider. installing 4mm bolt.
39. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over 53. [ ] All except SX E: Check if rebound-damper
shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up). shaft is inserted in hole in bottom end or
40. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull right slider. If not, use extension to push
through bushing. Remove tools, then install down on top of damper shaft.
bushings in other slider. 54. [ ] All except SX E: Thread 8mm hollow bolt into
end of damper shaft, then secure to 30in-lbs.
Shaft and slider installation 55. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Insert rebound-
41. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders, then install damper adjuster knob into rebound damper.
coil-spring rings in seals (if any). 56. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider
42. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Use rebound-damper fully.
knob to thread rebound-adjusting rod fully into NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
bottom end of rebound-damper shaft. 57. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. heavy grease and insert into left leg, then
43. [ ] All except SX E: Place threaded end of seal secure cap to 30in-lbs. NOTE: Models with
nut onto threaded end of rebound (right) shaft, no wrench flats should be finger-tight only;
then thread seal nut into bottom of right stan- cap lip must seat on top of fork crown.
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: 58. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1.
Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion.
44. [ ] Install accordion-shaped top-out bumper Right-leg assembly
onto left-side shaft. 59. [ ] All except SX E: Fill leg until surface of
45. [ ] All except SX E: Install 6mm bit socket on oil is approximately 100mm below top of
long extension into top of plunger shaft, then fork crown, pump slider up and down until
use tool to insert shaft assembly into top of bubbles stop rising in oil, then adjust final oil
left stanchion (leave tool engaged to shaft). level to ideal oil level from following table.
SX E only: Drop plunger shaft with top- NOTE: Unacceptable oil level can severely
out bumper into left leg and other plunger compromise fork performance and rider
shaft into right leg. Shake assembly until safety. Under no conditions set an oil level
both shafts drop through guide nuts in bot- outside the acceptable range!
toms of stanchions.
46. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully onto both
SIX DELUXE & SX OIL DEPTHS
shafts (small-end first), then engage clip in Year/model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
slot in left shaft. (SX E, perform this step on 99 SX 83mm 102mm 114mm
both sides). 00 SX 89mm 101mm 121mm
47. [ ] All except SX E: Install washer on rebound 00 SX w/ Lok-Out 95mm 101mm 108mm
shaft, then install snap-ring into groove on 01 SX 95mm 108mm 121mm
shaft.
02 Six Deluxe 95mm 108mm 121mm
48. [ ] SX R & Six Deluxe only: Rotate shaft so
hole for bearing is on top, then place bear- In the following step, models with the Lok-Out damper
ing in hole and push clear plastic sleeve need special precautions. There is an O-ring that makes the
over bearing. damper a very tight fit. If the damper is not installed correctly,
49. [ ] Treat threads inside of both shafts with
the O-ring may end up torn or displaced. Test-compress the
Loctite 242.
fork when assembly is complete. If flipping the lockout lever
50. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions.
51. [ ] Push slider assembly fully onto stanchions. makes no difference, the O-ring needs to be checked.
52. [ ] All except SX E: Thread 4mm bolt into bot- 60. [ ] All except Lok-Out and SX E: Insert com-
tom of left slider, then secure to 30in-lbs. pression damper into top of right leg.
(If necessary, use ratchet drive on extension Lok-Out only: Insert compression damper
to keep shaft from turning, then remove bit into right leg until resistance is felt, then
socket and extension.) work damper carefully in by pushing down
SX E only: Insert 6mm bit socket on long gently while rocking stanchion cap in a cir-
extension into top of left stanchion and cular motion, until it inserts effortlessly.
engage to plunger shaft. Then thread in 4mm
bolt and secure to 30in-lbs, using ratchet
drive to prevent extension from turning.
38 – 18
61. [ ] All except Lok-Out and SX E: Thread in E, which has no damping. For the non-adjustable models,
compression damper and secure to 30in-lbs. oil weight can be changed to change damping.
NOTE: Models with no wrench flats should be
finger-tight only; cap lip must seat on top of Compression-damping adjustment
fork crown. The SX R and Six Deluxe models have an external
SX E only: Thread cap into top of right stan- compression-damping adjustment (a knob on the top of
chion and secure to 30in-lbs. NOTE: Models the right leg). The user generally does this adjustment to
with no wrench flats should be finger-tight suit his or her riding style. If the most clockwise adjustment
only; cap lip must seat on top of fork crown. does not create enough damping for the rider’s preference,
62. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease higher-weight oil could be used, but this will also affect
to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
the rebound damping by an even greater degree. Make
Microlube port on back side of sliders.
changes in oil weight by very small increments. All other
models have non-adjustable damping, except the SX E,
TUNING OPTIONS which has no damping. For the non-adjustable models, oil
weight can be changed to change damping.
Sag adjustment Forks that have been modified with the Anti-Bob or Lok-
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider Out damper do not have external adjustment. With these, the
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. damper must be removed to make an adjustment. A small
The preload knob on top of the left leg adjusts the sag. hex-socket screw just above the piston is turned clockwise
Clockwise rotation reduces sag. There are approximately in half-turn increments to increase the damping.
8-10 full turns of adjustment. The recommended sag is
12–16mm. If there is too much sag with a full clockwise
adjustment of the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier
weight range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full
counterclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a ride
MANITOU ’98–’01 X-VERT
kit for a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag
has been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style the
COIL-SPRING FORKS
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride kit for a heavier
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due ABOUT THIS SECTION
to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for a lighter This section covers the 1998–2001 Manitou X-Vert
rider will provide a more comfortable ride. models. The following procedures cover some models
exactly and other models closely. For the 2000 and 2001
SX & SIX DELUXE RIDE KITS X-Vert, X-Vert Super, and X-Vert Supernova models, the
Model Color Weights Part #
procedure can be followed exactly. For the 2000 and 2001
SX (SX, R, E, LT) & Six Blue 100-150lbs 85-9127 X-Vert DC and X-Vert Carbon models (both of which are
SX (SX, R, E, LT) & Six Red 150-170lbs 85-9128 double-crown forks), the primary differences are in the
SX (SX, R, E, LT) & Six Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9129 spring stack. These differences include different numbers
SX (SX, R, E, LT) & Six Black >190lbs 85-9219 of coil and elastomer springs and an extra rod between
SX E Black >190lbs 85-9218 the stanchion cap and the top of the spring stack. Addi-
SX 100 Blue 100-150lbs 85-9184 tionally, the DC and Carbon have different numbers of
SX 100 Red 150-170lbs 85-9185 bottom-out bumpers (both sides). Additional variation
SX 100 Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9186 in all models may be seen in the compression damper.
SX 100 Black >190lbs 85-9223 On these models, the stock configuration is an externally
adjustable TPC or TPC+ damper, but an available option
Rebound-damping adjustment was the Anti-Bob (or Lok-Out) damper.
The SX R and Six Deluxe models have external rebound The ’98 and ’99 forks have a significant difference from
damping adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). the later model years. Forks from this period have the spring
The user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her rid- and damper sides reversed from the way the procedure is
ing style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not create written. These forks are easily identified by the fact that the
enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil preload adjuster is on the right side. In addition, forks from
could be used, but this will also affect the compression damp- these years have no Microlube grease ports, so the bushings
ing. Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. All must be greased during assembly. Finally, the ’99 X-Vert E
other models have non-adjustable damping, except the SX had slightly different dampers than all the other models.
38 – 19
TOOL REQUIREMENTS SPRING CHANGE ONLY

See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3.
2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly.
If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
and fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess at the end of this section).
friction between the stanchions and the bushings). The
’00 and ’01 X-Vert fork models can be lubricated without
disassembly by using the Prep M grease gun. As of ’03, FULL FORK SERVICE
Manitou changed their Prep M grease from a Maxima NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
product (green) to a Motorex product (amber). The
position with back side facing you for follow-
greases should not be mixed. If the matching grease is not ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
available, then the slider should be removed and cleaned
of the other grease before adding new grease. Spring removal
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. 1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each counterclockwise, counting turns: _________
slider so they are free of dirt. 2. [ ] Use 27mm socket to fully unthread left cap.
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past NOTE: If there are no wrench flats, use fin-
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper gers (or pliers if necessary) to remove cap.
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease 3. [ ] Pull out cap and elastomer/coil spring
into each Microlube port. assembly. All parts may come out together,
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, or it may be necessary to turn fork over to
observing whether stiction is reduced. get parts that separated from cap.
essary to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use cau-
Right-leg disassembly
4. [ ] Use 27mm socket to unthread right stan-
tion because injecting too much grease can
chion cap (leave in place for now). NOTE: If
force upper bushing out top of slider. An
there are no wrench flats, use fingers (or pli-
increase in force required to pump grease
ers if necessary) to remove cap.
indicates grease cavity is full, but this won’t
5. [ ] All except Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models: With-
be experienced in forks with badly worn
draw compression damper from top of stan-
bushings.
chion (be prepared for oil to spill).
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then
Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models only: Pull damper
attach boots.
up until resistance is felt, then continue
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn, to pull up gently while applying a circu-
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease lar rocking motion to stanchion cap until
cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush- damper pulls up effortlessly (be prepared
ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which for oil to spill).
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/ 6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually right leg into waste receptacle.
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised. 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
(stock is 5wt).
OIL CHANGE ONLY Slider and shaft removal

An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 8. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot-
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping tom of left leg. If necessary, use 6mm bit
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). socket on extension to keep shaft inside bot-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7. tom of left stanchion from turning.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 59 (ignore adjust- 9. [ ] Pull rebound-damper knob off bottom of
ing final oil level). right leg.
3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7. 10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to remove
4. [ ] Repeat step 59 (do adjust final oil level). hollow bolt in bottom of right slider.
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 60–61. 11. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions (note
whether oil is in sliders), then remove boots.
38 – 20
Plunger
shaft Stanchion
Compression cap
Seal damper
Bushing
Elastomer
Bushing spring
Connector
Top-out Elastomer
bumper spring
Coil spring
connector
Coil
spring
Slider
Rebound
damper
Boot (2)
Detent
bearing
Hollow
bolt
Seal
Shaft guide
nut
5mm bolt
Bottom-out
Rebound Bumper
bumper
adjuster
Bottom-out
Bumper
bumper
Stanchions
38.4 Manitou ’00 X-Vert fork.
38 – 21
12. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers and spacer off left 29. [ ] Repeat steps 27–28 for remaining bushings
shaft. (except tool can be inserted fully into slider
13. [ ] Slide left shaft out top of stanchion. for each lower bushing).
14. [ ] Remove accordion-shaped top-out bumper
from shaft. Bushing installation
15. [ ] While removing first bottom-out bumper on In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one
right shaft, be prepared to catch small ball time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For
bearing trapped under bumper on right shaft, example, 1.186 and 1.187 can be used together, but 1.186
then remove spacer and other bumper. and 1.188 cannot be used together. Always start installation
16. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to
(leaving 1/2" sticking out), then use 24mm the stanchions. If the fit proves too tight, then use the
socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end next larger pair on the mandrel instead.
of right stanchion. 30. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following
17. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion, order to either end of shaft:
then remove seal nut from shaft. nut
18. [ ] Use damper knob to unthread adjusting rod 30.0mm mandrel (large-end first)
in end of rebound-damper shaft, then apply 1.186 sizing ring
sidewise leverage to the knob while with- 17mm spacer
drawing adjusting rod from damper shaft. 1.187 sizing ring
19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals, washer
then pry seals out of top ends of sliders. nut
Cleaning and inspection 31. [ ] Secure nuts together with assembly fully at
20. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry end of shaft, then install third nut on other
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: end of shaft just until it is engaged.
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 32. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
plastic and rubber parts! and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
21. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears 680 on bushing.
or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in 33. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
slider tube, seal nut needs replacement). top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
22. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and like it has “bottomed.”
dropouts for bends and cracks. 34. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
23. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in and against end of slider (flat-face up).
bushings will be partially missing, exposing 35. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
brass flecks or metal base material, if bush- through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
ings are worn out. TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
24. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper wrench to tighten nut.
shaft for scratches or wear marks. 36. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace
Bushing removal installation mandrel with sizing mandrel,
For information on bushing removal and installation reassemble tool with 1.188 and then 1.187
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too
NOTE: Skip to step 40 if bushings are not being tight, use 1.189 and then 1.188 sizes (etc.).
replaced. When satisfied with fit, assemble installa-
25. [ ] Install expander with 2.0mm wall thickness tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then
install long tube. larger sizing ring).
26. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle, 37. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
then thread handle onto column. and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
27. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use of Loctite 680 on bushing.
slide hammer to push expander through first 38. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
mately even with top of slider brace). drel is only partially above top of slider.
28. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide 39. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
hammer to pull bushing from slider. shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up).
40. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
through bushing. Remove tools, then install
bushings in other slider.
38 – 22
Shaft and slider installation Right-leg assembly

41. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders, then install 59. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is at ideal level
coil-spring rings in seals (if any). (see following chart), pump slider up and
42. [ ] Use rebound-damper knob to thread rebound- down until bubbles stop rising in oil, then
adjusting rod fully into bottom end of rebound- readjust oil level. NOTE: Unacceptable oil
damper shaft. level can severely compromise fork perfor-
43. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded mance and rider safety. Under no conditions
end of rebound (right) shaft. set an oil level outside the acceptable range!
44. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
X-VERT COIL-SPRING OIL DEPTHS
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: Year/Model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion. 98 X-Vert 76mm 95mm 114mm
45. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers and spacer onto 98 TI 127mm 152mm 178mm
right shaft, just until they clear hole for 98 R 178mm 203mm 228mm
detent bearing, then insert bearing in hole 99 X-Vert & E 76mm 89mm 114mm
and pull bumper stack down just enough to
99 R, TI, & Carbon 178mm 203mm 228mm
cover bearing.
46. [ ] Install accordion-shaped top-out bumper 99 T 203mm 229mm 254mm
onto left shaft. 00 X-Vert & Super 76mm 83mm 89mm
47. [ ] Install 6mm bit socket on long extension into 00-01 DC 203mm 229mm 254mm
top of plunger shaft, then use tool to insert 00-01 Carbon 178mm 203mm 228mm
shaft assembly into top of left stanchion
01 X-Vert & Super 89mm 95mm 102mm
(leave tool engaged to shaft).
48. [ ] Install bumper/spacer stack on bottom of 01 Supernova 108mm 114mm 120mm
left shaft. In the following step, models with the Anti-Bob/Lok-
49. [ ] Slide both upper bumpers fully up shafts. Out damper need special precautions. There is an O-ring
50. [ ] Treat threads inside of both shafts with
that makes the damper a very tight fit. If the damper is
Loctite 242.
not installed correctly, the O-ring may end up torn or
51. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions.
52. [ ] Push slider assembly fully onto stanchions. displaced. Test-compress the fork when assembly is com-
53. [ ] Thread 4mm bolt into bottom of left slider, plete. If flipping the lockout lever makes no difference,
then secure to 30in-lbs. (If necessary, use the O-ring needs to be checked.
ratchet drive on extension to keep shaft 60. [ ] Models with no Anti-Bob/Lok-Out only:
from turning, then remove bit socket and Insert compression damper fully into right
extension.) stanchion.
54. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of right Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models only: Insert com-
shaft (make sure that threads inside right pression damper into right leg until resistance
shaft are down to end of hole in slider), then is felt, then work damper carefully in by push-
thread in hollow bolt and secure to 30in-lbs. ing down gently while rocking stanchion cap
NOTE: If shaft will not seat, it may need to in a circular motion, until it inserts effortlessly.
be aligned with hole. 61. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure
55. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into to 30in-lbs. NOTE: Models with no wrench
rebound damper. flats should be finger-tight only, cap lip must
56. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider fully. seat on top of fork crown.
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. 62. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
57. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
heavy grease and insert into left leg, then Microlube port on back side of sliders.
secure cap to 30in-lbs. NOTE: Models with
no wrench flats should be finger-tight only,
cap lip must seat on top of fork crown. TUNING OPTIONS
58. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1. Sag adjustment
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
The preload knob on top of the left leg adjusts the sag.
Clockwise rotation reduces sag. There are approximately
10 full turns of adjustment.
38 – 23
the right leg). The user generally does this adjustment to
X-VERT SAG SETTINGS suit his or her riding style. If the most clockwise adjustment
Travel Sag range does not create enough damping for the rider’s preference,
105mm 18–24mm higher-weight oil could be used, but this will also affect the
120mm 25–28mm compression damping. Make changes in oil weight by very
180mm 28–36mm small increments. Changing oil weight is the only way to
change damping on the X-Vert E.
If there is too much sag with a full clockwise
adjustment of the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier Compression-damping adjustment
weight range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full These forks have an external compression-damping
counterclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a ride adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg). The user
kit for a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding
has been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not create
the rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride kit for a enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight
heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the oil could be used, but this will also affect the rebound
fork due to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit damping by an even greater degree. Make changes in oil
for a lighter rider will provide a more comfortable ride. weight by very small increments.
Kits listed in the table below with no part number that Forks that have been modified with the Anti-Bob or Lok-
are noted as “original” are only available with the fork and Out damper do not have external adjustment. With these, the
are not available separately. damper must be removed to make an adjustment. A small
X-VERT COIL-SPRING RIDE KITS hex-socket screw just above the piston is turned clockwise
Year/Model Color Rider weights Part #
in half-turn increments to increase the damping.
98-99 X-Vert & E Blue 100-150lbs 85-3838
98-99 X-Vert Red 150-170lbs 85-3839
98-99 X-Vert
98-99 R & T
Yellow 170-190lbs
Blue 100-150lbs
85-3840
85-3871
MANITOU ’02–’03 SIX &
98-99 R & T Red 150-170lbs 85-3872 ’03 AXEL FORKS (SPORT,
98-99 R & T
98 TI
Yellow 170-190lbs
Blue 100-150lbs
85-3873
85-3841 COMP, ELITE, & SUPER)
98 TI Red 150-170lbs 85-3842
98 TI Yellow 170-190lbs 85-3843 ABOUT THIS SECTION
00-01 X-Vert & Super Blue 100-150lbs 85-9100 This section covers the 2002 Manitou Six models
00-01 X-Vert & Super Red 150-170lbs 85-9178 including the Comp, Elite, and Super sub-models, the
00-01 X-Vert & Super Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9099 2003 Manitou Six and Six Sport models, and the 2003
00-01 X-Vert & Super Black >190lbs 85-9225 Axel models (Comp, Elite, Super, and Super Lockout).
00-01 DC Blue 100-150lbs 85-9102 This section does not cover the 2002 Manitou Six Deluxe,
00-01 DC Red 150-170lbs 85-9179 which is more similar to 2000 and 2001 Manitou SX mod-
00-01 DC Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9101
els and is covered elsewhere in this chapter.
These models are divided into two basic groups:
00-01 Carbon Blue 100-150lbs 85-9228
those with no oil damping (’02 Six Comp, ’03 Six, and
00-01 Carbon Red 150-170lbs 85-9079
’03 Six Sport) and those with oil damping (’02 Six Elite,
00-01 Carbon Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9080
’02 Six Super, and all ’03 Axel forks). One of two features
00-01 Carbon Black 170-190lbs 85-9236 make it possible to distinguish these two groups. Those
01 Supernova Blue 100-150lbs 85-9227 with damping have either an adjustment knob on top of
01 Supernova Red 150-170lbs original the right side of the fork crown or a cap with the words
01 Supernova Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9229 “Fluid Flow Damping” in the same location. The forks
01 Supernova Black >190lbs 85-9235 with damping also have variations in whether the damp-
ing is adjustable or not. If there is an adjustment knob on
Rebound-damping adjustment top of the right side of the fork crown, the compression
These forks (except X-Vert E) have an external damping is adjustable. If there is an adjustment knob on
rebound-damping adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the bottom of the right leg, then the rebound damping
38 – 24
is adjustable. If there is a knob on top of the right side
labeled “Lockout,” the fork has a lockout feature and
OIL CHANGE ONLY
internally adjusted damping.
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
For simplicity, when procedures vary for different mod-
els, the variations are not labeled by model name, but by 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7.
whether they apply to a model without damping, with non- 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 56 (ignore adjust-
adjustable damping, or with adjustable damping. The steps ing final oil level).
that require different procedures for these different designs 3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7.
are labeled undamped models only, damped models 4. [ ] Repeat step 56 (do adjust final oil level).
only, non-adjustable damped models only, adjustable 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 57.
damped models only, or lockout models only.
SPRING CHANGE ONLY

TOOL REQUIREMENTS 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3.
See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. 2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly.
STICTION CORRECTION TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY

fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess fric-
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 8–14 (ignore
tion between the stanchions and the bushings). These fork steps done to right shaft).
models can be lubricated without disassembly by using the 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 41–55.
Prep M grease gun. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–5.
M grease from a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 56 (adjusting final
product (amber). The greases should not be mixed. If the oil depth only).
matching grease is not available, then the slider should be 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 57.
removed and cleaned of the other grease before adding
new grease.
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. FULL FORK SERVICE
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
slider so they are free of dirt. clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past position with back side facing you for follow-
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease Spring removal
into each Microlube port. 1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, counterclockwise, counting turns: _________
observing whether stiction is reduced. 2. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove preload-adjuster
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as nec- knob.
essary to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use cau- 3. [ ] Use 20mm socket to remove stanchion cap
tion because injecting too much grease can from left side, then pull out cap and spring.
increase in force required to pump grease Right-leg disassembly
indicates grease cavity is full, but this 4. [ ] All except adjustable damped and lockout
won’t be experienced in forks with badly models: Use 27mm socket to unthread right
worn bushings. stanchion cap (leave in place for now).
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then Adjustable damped models only: Use 2mm
attach boots. hex key to remove compression damper
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn, knob, then use 20mm socket to unthread
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease right stanchion cap (leave in place for now).
Lockout models only: Turn lockout to off
position. Use 2mm hex key to remove retain-
ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which
ing bolt and remove knob, then use 20mm
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/ socket to unthread right stanchion cap.
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised.
38 – 25
5. [ ] Damped models without lockout only: With- 19. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears
draw compression damper from top of stan- or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in
chion (be prepared for oil to spill). slider tube, seal nut needs replacement).
Lockout models only: Pull damper up until 20. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
resistance is felt, then continue to pull up dropouts for bends and cracks.
gently while applying a circular rocking 21. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in
motion to stanchion cap until damper pulls bushings will be partially missing, exposing
up effortlessly (be prepared for oil to spill). brass flecks or metal base material, if bush-
Undamped models only: Remove right stan- ings are worn out.
chion cap. 22. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
6. [ ] Damped models only: While pumping fork shaft for scratches or wear marks.
gently, pour oil out of right leg into waste
receptacle. Bushing removal
7. [ ] Damped models only: Measure oil viscosity For information on bushing removal and installation
and record: _______wt (stock is 5wt). tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
NOTE: Skip to step 39 if bushings are not being
Slider and shaft removal replaced.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 23. [ ] Install expander with 1.4mm wall thickness
8. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot- (tapered-end first) on larger column, then
tom of left leg. If necessary, use 6mm bit install long tube.
socket on extension to keep shaft inside bot- 24. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle,
tom of left stanchion from turning. then thread handle onto column.
9. [ ] Adjustable damped models only: Use 2mm 25. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use
hex key (or #1 Phillips) to unthread screw slide hammer to push expander through first
in rebound-adjuster knob on bottom of right bushing (until top of long tube is approxi-
slider, then remove knob. mately even with top of slider brace).
10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft 26. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide
in bottom of right slider clockwise at least 7 hammer to pull bushing from slider.
full turns. 27. [ ] Repeat steps 25–26 for remaining bushings
11. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions (note (except tool can be inserted fully into slider
whether oil is in sliders), then remove boots. for each lower bushing).
12. [ ] Damped models only: Remove C-clip from
left-side shaft, then slide bottom-out bum- Bushing installation
pers and spacer off shafts. In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one
Undamped models only: Remove C-clip and time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For
bottom-out bumper from both shafts. example, 1.128 and 1.129 can be used together, but 1.128
13. [ ] Slide left shaft out top of stanchion (all and 1.130 cannot be used together. Always start installation
undamped models, also do this on right side). with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to
14. [ ] Remove O-ring, top-out spring, rubber ring,
the stanchions. If the fit proves too tight, then use the
and clip from left shaft. Note if clip comes
next larger pair on the mandrel instead.
from upper or lower slot (circle one).
28. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following
15. [ ] Damped models only: Push rebound-damper
order to either end of shaft:
shaft into seal nut (leaving 1/2" sticking
nut
out), then use 24mm socket to unthread
28.5mm mandrel (large-end first)
seal nut from bottom end of right stanchion.
1.128 sizing ring
16. [ ] Damped models only: Remove damper
17mm spacer
assembly from stanchion, then remove seal
1.129 sizing ring
nut from shaft.
washer
17. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals,
nut
then pry seals out of top ends of sliders.
29. [ ] Secure nuts together, with assembly fully at
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 30. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
plastic and rubber parts! 680 on bushing.
38 – 26
Preload knob
Fluid Flow damper
Undamped
Stanchion cap
Lockout
Spring
(partial)
Clip (100mm travel)
Stanchion
Clip (80mm travel)
(partial)
1Models with dampers only Stanchion

(partial)
2Both sides on undamped models
Plunger2
Rebound damper1
Boot
O-ring1
Rubber ring
Conical bumper1
Top-out spring Foam ring
O-ring
Wiper seal Spacer sleeve1
Conical bumper
Clip2 Bushing
Shaft guide2 Seal nut1
Bushing
Slider (partial) Slider (partial)
Bottom bolt Rebound knob*

(not all models)
38.5 Manitou Axel and Six forks.
38 – 27
31. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on 45. [ ] Damped models only: Install spacer sleeve
top of shaft with weight until assembly feels (large-end first) onto rebound damper shaft.
like it has “bottomed.” 46. [ ] Treat threads inside of left shaft with Loctite
32. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft 242.
and against end of slider (flat-face up). 47. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions.
33. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull 48. [ ] Push slider assembly fully onto stanchions.
through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED 49. [ ] Thread 4mm bolt into bottom of left slider,
TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end then secure to 30in-lbs. (If necessary, use
wrench to tighten nut. ratchet drive on extension to keep shaft
34. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide from turning, then remove bit socket and
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace extension.)
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel, 50. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of right
reassemble tool with 1.130 and then 1.129 shaft while turning 8mm bit socket counter-
sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too clockwise in bottom end of shaft to engage
tight, use 1.131 and then 1.130 sizes (etc.). it to slider threads, then secure shaft to
When satisfied with fit, assemble installa- <10in-lbs.
tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on 51. [ ] Adjustable damped models only: Insert
sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then rebound-damper adjuster knob into rebound
larger sizing ring). damper, rotate fully clockwise, then reinstall
35. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings knob so indicator points close to “More” on
and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops decal. Retain knob with 2mm hex-socket
of Loctite 680 on bushing. bolt (or Phillips screw), then turn knob fully
36. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top counterclockwise.
of shaft with weight until nut on top of man- 52. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider
drel is only partially above top of slider. fully.
37. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up). 53. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
38. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull heavy grease and insert into left leg, then
through bushing, remove tools, then install secure cap to 30in-lbs.
bushings in other slider. 54. [ ] Install preload-adjuster knob, then secure
with 2mm hex-socket bolt.
Shaft and slider installation 55. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1.
39. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders, then install
coil-spring rings in seals (if any). Right-leg assembly
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 56. [ ] Damped models only: Fill leg until surface
40. [ ] Damped models only: Place threaded end of of oil is approximately 100mm below top of
seal nut onto threaded end of rebound (right) fork crown, pump slider up and down until
shaft, then thread seal nut into bottom of right bubbles stop rising in oil, then adjust final oil
stanchion and secure to <10in-lbs). NOTE: level to correct value from following table.
Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion. NOTE: Unacceptable oil level can severely
41. [ ] Insert clip into original slot on plunger shaft, compromise fork performance and rider
or change location to change travel (lower safety. Under no conditions set an oil level
slot is for 80mm travel, slot above flange is outside the acceptable range!
for 100mm travel).
42. [ ] Install flat rubber ring, top-out spring, and
SIX & AXEL OIL DEPTHS
O-ring onto bottom of plunger shaft. Model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
43. [ ] Damped models only: Install 6mm bit socket Six Elite 80 100mm 105mm 110mm
on long extension into top of plunger shaft, Six Elite 100 106mm 111mm 116mm
then use tool to insert shaft assembly into top Six Super 80 100mm 105mm 110mm
of left stanchion (leave tool engaged to shaft).
Six Super 100 106mm 111mm 116mm
Undamped models only: Do Damped models
Axel Comp 114mm 119mm 124mm
only version of this step on both sides of
fork, leaving tool in place on second side. Axel Elite 106mm 111mm 116mm
44. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully onto both Axel Super 100mm 105mm 110mm
shafts (small-end first), then engage clip in Axel Lockout 87mm 92mm 97mm
slot in left shaft (all but Elite & Super, install
clip on both shafts).
38 – 28
57. [ ] Lockout models only: Insert compression
damper into right leg until resistance is felt,
SIX & AXEL RIDE KITS
then work damper carefully in by pushing Model Color Rider weights Part #
down gently while rocking stanchion cap in ’02 Comp Blue 100-150lbs 85-4815
a circular motion, until it inserts effortlessly. ’02 Comp Red 150-170lbs 85-4816
Secure cap to 30in-lbs. ’02 Comp Yellow >170lbs 85-4817
Non-adjustable damped models only: Thread in
’02 Elite & Super Blue 100-150lbs 85-4826
compression damper and secure to 30in-lbs.
Adjustable damped models only: Thread in ’02 Elite & Super Red 150-170lbs 85-4827
compression damper and secure to 30in-lbs, ’02 Elite & Super Yellow >170lbs 85-4828
then install adjuster knob and secure screw. ’03 Six & Six Sport Blue 100-150lbs 85-5167
Undamped models only: Thread in right stan- ’03 Six & Six Sport Red 150-170lbs 85-5168
chion cap and secure to 30in-lbs. ’03 Six & Six Sport Yellow >170lbs 85-5169
58. [ ] Lockout only: Use wrench to check hex
’03 Axel (all) Blue 100-150lbs 85-5239
shaft is fully clockwise, place lockout knob
on cap so lever points to “off,” then gently ’03 Axel (all) Red 150-170lbs 85-5240
secure screw with 2mm hex key. ’03 Axel (all) Yellow >170lbs 85-5241
59. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each Rebound-damping adjustment
Microlube port on back side of sliders. The Six Super and the Axel Elite and Super models
have an external rebound-damping adjustment (a knob
on the bottom of the right leg). The user generally does
TUNING OPTIONS this adjustment to suit his or her riding style.
The Six Elite and Axel Comp are non-adjustable, but
Travel adjustment changing oil weight can change the amount of damp-
Travel is internally adjustable by means of changing ing. The recommended oil is 5wt. Increasing the weight
the location of a clip inside the fork. See TRAVEL CHANGE increases damping, and decreasing the weight reduces
ONLY at the beginning of this section for the correct damping. Make changes by small increments.
procedure. Travel is largely a matter of rider preference. The ’02 Six Comp, ’03 Six, and ’03 Six Sport have
More travel allows the fork to handle bigger bumps, but no damping.
negatively affects the center of gravity of the bike and
the handling by raising the front end of the bike. Higher Compression-damping adjustment
amounts of travel also increase loads the frame expe- The Six Elite, Six Super, Axel Comp, Axel Elite, and
riences during frontal impact. Axle Super have compression damping. It is non-adjustable,
but changing the oil weight changes the level of damping.
Sag adjustment Any change made will affect the rebound damping in the
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the same way, and possibly to a higher degree. The recom-
rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding mended oil is 5wt. Increasing the weight increases damping,
position. The preload knob on top of the left leg and decreasing the weight reduces damping. Make changes
adjusts the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces sag. There by small increments.
are approximately two full turns of adjustment. For The Axel Super Lockout has internally adjustable
80mm travel forks, the recommended sag is 12–16mm. damping. The compression damper must be removed.
For 100mm travel forks, the recommended sag is 18– There is a small hex-socket screw just above the piston.
24mm. If there is too much sag with a full clockwise It should be adjusted in half-turn increments. If the most
adjustment of the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping
weight range is needed. If there is too little sag with a for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could be used,
full counterclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, but this will also affect the rebound damping by an even
a ride kit for a lighter weight range is needed. If the greater degree. The stock oil is 5wt. Make changes in oil
correct sag has been achieved, but due to an aggressive weight by very small increments.
riding style the rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a The ’02 Six Comp, ’03 Six, and ’03 Six Sport have
ride kit for a heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never no damping.
bottoms the fork due to a very non-aggressive riding
style, a ride kit for a lighter rider will provide a more
comfortable ride.
38 – 29
MANITOU ’02 MARS & ’03 5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary
to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution
SKAREB COIL FORKS because injecting too much grease can force
upper bushing out top of slider. An increase in
force required to pump grease indicates grease
ABOUT THIS SECTION cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in

forks with badly worn bushings.
This section covers the 2002 Mars Comp model 6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then
and the 2003 Skareb Comp model. These two forks attach boots.
are the only 2002 or 2003 Mars or Skareb models that As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn,
have a coil-spring system instead of an air-spring sys- there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease
tem. This section does not cover any other Mars or cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush-
Skareb models. ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which
The Mars and Skareb forks have two different sys- can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/
tems for bushing lubrication. The Mars utilizes grease, steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually
and has what Manitou calls “Microlube” grease ports done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised.
on the back face of each slider tube about 2–3" below
the tops of the tubes. The Skareb utilizes oil, and has
what Manitou calls “Semi-bath” lubrication. The Skareb OIL CHANGE ONLY
may have bumps in the casting where Microlube grease An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
ports would be located, but there are no holes for grease damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
injection. For simplicity, when procedures vary for these (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
two lubrication systems, the differences are labeled with 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7.
Microlube only or Semi-bath only notations.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS 4. [ ] Repeat step 56 (do adjust final oil level).
STICTION CORRECTION SPRING CHANGE ONLY

If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly 2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly.
and fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 53–54.
friction between the stanchions and the bushings). The The original preload setting will probably need to be
Mars fork model can be lubricated without disassembly changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
by using the Prep M grease gun. The Skareb model at the end of this section).
is oil lubricated and requires overhaul if stiction is
occurring. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep M
grease from a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex FULL FORK SERVICE
product (amber). The greases should not be mixed. NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
If the matching grease is not available, then the slider clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
should be removed and cleaned of the other grease position with back side facing you for follow-
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
before adding new grease.
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. Spring removal
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each 1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully
slider so they are free of dirt. counterclockwise, counting turns: _________
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past 2. [ ] Use 27mm socket to fully unthread left cap.
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper 3. [ ] Pull out cap and elastomer/coil spring
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease assembly. All parts may come out together,
into each Microlube port. or it may be necessary to turn fork over to
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, get parts that separated from cap.
chion cap (leave in place for now).
38 – 30
Preload knob TPC Quick Range Fluid Flow Lock Out
Stanchion cap (with preload adjuster)
Spring
(partial)
Stanchion
(partial)
Boot
Stanchion
(partial)
Foam ring
Wiper seal
Bushing
Bushing
Sponge
(Skareb only) Rebound damper
Plunger shaft
Bottom bolt Conical bumper

Top-out
bumper
Rebound knob Spacer sleeve
Shaft guide
Conical bumper Seal nut

Clip O-ring
38.6 Mars and Skareb coil forks.
38 – 31
5. [ ] Withdraw compression damper from top of 20. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
stanchion (be prepared for oil to spill). dropouts for bends and cracks.
6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of 21. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in
right leg into waste receptacle. bushings will be partially missing, exposing
7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt brass flecks or metal base material, if bush-
(stock is 5wt). ings are worn out.
22. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper
Slider and shaft removal shaft for scratches or wear marks.
8. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot- Bushing removal
tom of left leg. If necessary, use 6mm bit For information on bushing removal and installation
socket on extension to keep shaft inside bot- tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
tom of left stanchion from turning. NOTE: Skip to step 39 if bushings are not being
9. [ ] Use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to replaced.
unthread screw in rebound adjuster knob on 23. [ ] Install expander with 1.4mm wall thickness
bottom of right slider, then remove knob. (tapered-end first) on larger column, then
10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft install long tube.
in bottom of right slider clockwise at least 7 24. [ ] Assemble slide hammer assembly to handle,
full turns. then thread handle onto column.
11. [ ] Microlube only: Pull slider assembly off stan- 25. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use
chions (note whether oil is in sliders), then slide hammer to push expander through first
remove boots. bushing (until top of long tube is approxi-
Semi-bath only: Being prepared for oil in mately even with top of slider brace).
slider, pull slider assembly off stanchions. 26. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide
12. [ ] Microlube only: Remove C-clip from left-side hammer to pull bushing from slider.
shaft, then slide bottom-out bumpers and 27. [ ] Repeat steps 25–26 for remaining bushings
spacer off shafts. (except tool can be inserted fully into slider
Semi-bath only: Noting order, remove any for each lower bushing).
clips, spacers, foam sponges, or bum-
pers from both shafts (sponges may have Bushing installation
remained in sliders). In the next, step, only two sizing rings are used at one
13. [ ] Slide left shaft out top of stanchion. time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For
14. [ ] Remove accordion-shaped top-out bumper example, 1.128 and 1.129 can be used together, but 1.128
from shaft. and 1.130 cannot be used together. Always start installation
15. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to
(leaving 1/2" sticking out), then use 24mm
socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end
of right stanchion.
16. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
then remove seal nut from shaft.
nut
17. [ ] Microlube only: Remove coil-spring rings (if
any) from seals, then pry seals out of top
1.128 sizing ring
ends of sliders.
17mm spacer
Semi-bath only: Remove coil-spring rings
1.129 sizing ring
(if any) from seals, pick foam rings out
washer
from below seals, then pry seals out of top
nut
ends of sliders.
with lint-free rag and compressed air (includ- 30. [ ] Place smaller O.D. bushing over sizing rings
ing sponges removed from Skareb). NOTE: and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 680 on bushing.
plastic and rubber parts! 31. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
19. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears or top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
nicks and replace as needed (Mars only, if oil like it has “bottomed.”
is in slider tube, seal nut needs replacement). 32. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
38 – 32
33. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull 48. [ ] Microlube only: Push slider assembly onto
through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED stanchions until ends of shafts reach holes
TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end in bottoms of sliders.
wrench to tighten nut. Semi-bath only: Push slider assembly 3"
34. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide onto stanchions and inject 16cc of 5-30w
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace motor oil into hole in bottom of each slider.
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel, Then push slider assembly onto stanchions
reassemble tool with 1.130 and then 1.129 until ends of shafts reach holes in bottoms
sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too of sliders.
tight, use 1.131 and then 1.130 sizes (etc.). 49. [ ] Thread 4mm bolt into bottom of left slider,
When satisfied with fit, assemble installa- then secure to 30in-lbs. (If necessary, use
tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on ratchet drive on extension to keep shaft
sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then from turning, then remove bit socket and
larger sizing ring). extension.)
35. [ ] Place larger O.D. bushing over sizing rings 50. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of right
and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops shaft while turning 8mm bit socket counter-
of Loctite 680 on bushing. clockwise in bottom end of shaft to engage
36. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top it to slider threads, then secure shaft to
of shaft with weight until nut on top of man- <10in-lbs.
drel is only partially above top of slider. 51. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
37. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over rebound damper, rotate fully clockwise,
shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up). then reinstall knob so indicator points close
38. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull to “More” on decal. Retain knob with 2mm
through bushing. Remove tools, then install hex-socket bolt (or Phillips screw), then turn
bushings in other slider. knob fully counterclockwise.
52. [ ] Snap boots onto seals (if any), then extend
Shaft and slider installation slider fully.
39. [ ] Semi-bath only: Insert foam rings just above NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
upper bushings. 53. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
All: Tap seals into tops of sliders, then heavy grease and insert into left leg, then
install coil-spring rings in seals (if any). secure cap to 30in-lbs.
40. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded 54. [ ] Install preload-adjuster knob, then secure
end of rebound (right) shaft. with 2mm hex-socket bolt.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 55. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1.
41. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: Right-leg assembly
Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion. 56. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is approximately
42. [ ] Install accordion-shaped top-out bumper 100mm below top of fork crown, pump slider
onto left shaft. up and down until bubbles stop rising in oil,
43. [ ] Install 6mm bit socket on long extension into then adjust final oil level to ideal level from
top of plunger shaft, then use tool to insert following table. NOTE: Unacceptable oil level
shaft assembly into top of left stanchion can severely compromise fork performance
(leave tool engaged to shaft). and rider safety. Under no conditions set an
44. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumper(s) fully onto oil level outside the acceptable range!
shaft(s) (small-end first), then engage clip (if
any) in slot in left shaft.
MARS & SKAREB COMP OIL DEPTHS
45. [ ] Microlube only: Install spacer sleeve (large- Model/damper Max. level Ideal level Min. level
end first) onto rebound damper shaft. Mars/FFD 100mm 105mm 110mm
Semi-bath only: Install spacer sleeves (large- Skareb/FFD 114mm 119mm 124mm
end first) onto shafts, then install foam Skareb/Lock Out 105mm 107mm 110mm
sponges onto sleeves.
46. [ ] Treat threads inside of left shaft with Loctite 57. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to
242. 30in-lbs.
47. [ ] Microlube only: Lightly oil foam rings inside 58. [ ] Microlube only: Use Manitou Prep M grease
boots, then slide small ends of boots onto gun and grease to inject 50–75 squirts of
stanchions, being careful not to dislodge grease into each Microlube port on back
foam rings. side of sliders.
38 – 33
TUNING OPTIONS is by changing the oil weight. Higher-weight oil increases

compression damping, but it will also increase rebound
Sag adjustment damping (to an even higher degree).
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider If the fork has been retrofit with a Lock Out compres-
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The sion damper, there is an internal damping adjustment. The
preload knob on top of the left leg adjusts the sag. Clock- compression damper must be removed, which is covered in
wise rotation reduces sag. There are approximately two full the Mars and Skareb air-forks section (page 38-62). There
turns of adjustment. The recommended sag for this model is a small hex-socket screw just above the piston. It should
is 12–16mm. If there is too much sag with a full clockwise be adjusted in half-turn increments. Lock Out dampers
adjustment of the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier require special care during installation, so use the installation
weight range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full procedure from the Mars and Skareb air-forks section.
has been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style the
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride kit for a heavier MANITOU ’02–’03 BLACK
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due
to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for a lighter COIL FORKS
rider will provide a more comfortable ride.
MARS COMP COIL RIDE KITS
(SPORT, COMP, ELITE)
Color Rider weights Part #
Blue 100-150lbs 85-9127 ABOUT THIS SECTION
Red 150-170lbs 85-9128 This section covers the 2002 and 2003 Manitou Black
Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9129
coil-spring models, with the exception of the 2003 Black
Elite Coil. The models covered in this section are:
Black >190lbs 85-9219
Sport 80/100 (Fluid Flow compression damper)
SKAREB COMP RIDE KITS Elite 80/100 TPC+ (TPC+ compression damper)
Color Rider weights Part # Comp 80/100 (Fluid Flow compression damper)
Blue 100-150lbs 85-5041 Comp Lock Out (Lock Out compression damper)
Red 150-170lbs 85-5042
Elite 80/100 (Quick Range compression damper)
Elite 80/100 TPC+ (TPC+ compression damper)
Yellow 170-190lbs 85-5043
Sport 100/120 (Fluid Flow compression damper)
Black >190lbs 85-5173
Elite 100/120 (Quick Range compression damper)
Elite 100/120 TPC+ (TPC+ compression damper)
Rebound-damping adjustment Elite Lock Out (Lock Out compression damper)
These forks have an external rebound-damping
All models have Quick Range rebound dampers. The 2003
adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user
Black Elite Coil that is covered elsewhere in this chapter is
generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style.
easily distinguished by the presence of a travel-adjustment
If the most clockwise adjustment does not create enough
lever on the top of the left leg.
damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could
This section does not cover the Black Elite Air 80 or
be used, but this will also affect the compression damping.
Black Super Air models, which are covered elsewhere in
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
this chapter.
Compression-damping adjustment For simplicity, when procedures vary for different
If the fork has an external compression-damping models, the variations are not be labeled by model name,
adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg), the user but by the type of compression damper (Fluid Flow, Lock
generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding Out, Quick Range, or TPC+). The different compression
style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not create dampers are easy to identify before starting the procedure.
enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight The Fluid Flow damper has no adjustment knob, and
oil could be used, but this will also affect the rebound “Fluid Flow Damping” is on the stanchion cap in raised
damping by an even greater degree. Make changes in oil letters. The Lock Out damper has a knob with that name
weight by very small increments. on it and the words “off ” and “on” on the knob. The
If the fork has no knob on top of the right leg, Quick Range damper has an adjustment knob with a lever
then the only way to change the compression damping that points down and the notation “– Compression +”
38 – 34
on it. The TPC+ adjustment knob has no notations and
is the only knob that turns several rotations.
OIL CHANGE ONLY
Many of these models have an external travel adjuster.
The travel adjuster is a red knob on the bottom of the
left leg. The 2003 Sport and Comp models have internally 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7.
convertible travel. Differences due to the presence of a 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 63 (ignore adjust-
travel-adjust or travel-conversion mechanism are noted as ing final oil level).
Travel-adjust only, Convertible travel only, or Fixed 3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7.
travel. External travel adjustment is covered in TUNING 4. [ ] Repeat step 63 (do adjust final oil level).
OPTIONS at the end of this section. 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 64–67.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS SPRING CHANGE ONLY

See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3.
2. [ ] Replace springs on cap and spring assembly.
If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly and changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess friction at the end of this section).
between the stanchions and the bushings). The Black fork
models can be lubricated without disassembly by using the
Prep M grease gun. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER
M grease from a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex If the travel-adjust knob has not been properly set up,
product (amber). The greases should not be mixed. If the the fork will not change travel when the knob is changed
matching grease is not available, then the slider should be between travel settings. For the purpose of taking advan-
removed and cleaned of the other grease before adding tage of this feature, or for the purpose of disassembling
new grease. the fork safely, the adjuster must be reclocked. The fol-
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. lowing procedure includes a test for whether the travel-
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each adjustment feature is functioning correctly and a method
slider so they are free of dirt. for correcting it if not.
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper
Testing travel adjustment
NOTE: This procedure can be performed with fork
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease
in bike, but if fork is being removed for other
reasons, this procedure is more easily done
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times,
with fork out of bike.
1. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
long-travel position.
essary to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use cau-
2. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
tion because injecting too much grease can
release fork.
3. [ ] Use marker on stanchion to mark top of
increase in force required to pump grease
slider seal or boot.
indicates grease cavity is full, but this won’t
4. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully counterclock-
be experienced in forks with badly worn
wise to short-travel position.
bushings.
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then
release fork.
attach boots.
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn,
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease 7. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush- long-travel position.
ing. Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which 8. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/ release fork.
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually 9. [ ] Compare marks. If marks are not approxi-
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised. mately 20mm apart, travel adjuster is not
working.
38 – 35
Reclocking travel adjuster while applying a circular rocking motion to

stanchion cap until damper pulls up effort-
1. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove travel adjuster
knob, then pull off travel-adjust detent lessly (be prepared for oil to spill).
mechanism. 6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
2. [ ] With fork upside down and compressed as right leg into waste receptacle.
much as possible, rotate hex-shaped travel- 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
adjust shaft clockwise until spring resistance (stock is 5wt).
is felt, then release shaft and allow it to Slider and shaft removal
return to its natural position. NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
3. [ ] Install detent mechanism so knob in back 8. [ ] Travel adjust only: Use 2mm hex key to
face engages corresponding depression in unthread bolt on bottom of left leg. Remove
bottom face of slider. travel-adjust knob and detent mechanism.
4. [ ] Install travel-adjust knob so knob points at 9. [ ] Use wrench to unthread 7/16" hex-head bolt
longer-travel setting and engages hex shaft, on bottom of left leg.
then secure bolt. 10. [ ] Use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to
5. [ ] Repeat travel adjustment test. unthread screw in rebound-adjuster knob on
bottom of right slider, then remove knob.
FULL FORK SERVICE 11. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft
in bottom of right slider clockwise at least 7
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
full turns.
13. [ ] Slide spacer sleeves, washer (left side only),
Spring removal and bottom-out bumpers off ends of shafts.
NOTE: When servicing travel-adjustable models, 14. [ ] Push left shaft mostly into guide nut at
turn travel knob to longest-travel setting, then bottom of left stanchion, then use 24mm
compress and release fork before proceeding. socket to unthread guide nut and remove
If fork fails to go to long-travel mode, perform assembly (including shaft).
RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER before proceeding! 15. [ ] All: Remove guide nut and spring from bot-
1. [ ] Turn preload adjuster on top of left leg fully tom of left shaft (spring will easily separate
counterclockwise, counting turns: _________ from guide nut once shaft is removed).
2. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove preload knob, Travel adjust only: Pull travel-adjust rod from
then use 20mm socket to fully unthread left bottom of left shaft, then remove travel-
stanchion cap. adjust tabs from slots in left shaft.
3. [ ] Pull out cap and spring assembly. Convertible travel only: If converting travel,
remove clip from top end of shaft and rein-
Right-leg disassembly stall in other slot (bottom slot is short-travel
4. [ ] TPC+ & Fluid Flow only: Use 27mm socket position, top slot is long-travel position).
to unthread right stanchion cap (leave in 16. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut
place for now). (leaving 1/2" sticking out), then use 24mm
Quick Range only: Use 2mm hex key to socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end
unthread bolt that retains compression- of right stanchion.
damper knob, then remove adjusting knob 17. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
and small plastic washer that is under adjust- then remove seal nut from shaft.
ing knob. Use 20mm socket to unthread 18. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals,
stanchion cap. then pry seals out of top ends of sliders.
Lock Out only: Turn lockout to off position.
Pry name plate off top of lockout knob. Use Cleaning and inspection
2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to remove retain- 19. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
ing bolt and remove knob, then use 27mm with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
socket to unthread right stanchion cap. Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
5. [ ] All except Lock Out: Withdraw compression plastic and rubber parts!
damper from top of stanchion (be prepared 20. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears
for oil to spill). or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in
Lock Out only: Pull damper up until resis- slider tube, seal nut needs replacement).
tance is felt, then continue to pull up gently 21. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
dropouts for bends and cracks.
38 – 36
Preload knob TPC+ TPC Quick Range Fluid Flow Lock Out
Stanchion cap (with preload adjuster)
Spring Travel-adjust tabs*

(partial)
*Not present on models
without travel adjust
Plunger shaft
Stanchion
(partial)
Boot
Stanchion
Foam ring (partial)
*Not present on
models without Wiper seal
travel adjust
**Left item with
Bushing
travel adjust,
right item with
non-travel adjust Bushing
Travel-adjust
rod* Slider (partial) Slider (partial) Rebound damper
Rebound
**Top-out Bolt knob
spring or
bumper Detent
mechanism*
Shaft guide Travel-adjust

knob* Conical bumper
Conical bumper
**Washer *Not present on Spacer sleeve

or clip models without
travel adjust
**Left item with Seal nut
travel adjust,
Spacer sleeve
right item with O-ring
non-travel adjust
38.7 Black coil-spring fork. Note variations of compression-damper types and travel-adjust feature.
38 – 37
22. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Cream-colored 34. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
plastic coating in bushings will be partially through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
missing, exposing metal base material, if TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
bushings are worn out. wrench to tighten nut.
23. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper 35. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then larger sizing ring).
install long tube. 36. [ ] Place larger O.D. bushing over sizing rings
25. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle, and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
then thread handle onto column. of Loctite 680 on bushing.
26. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use 37. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
slide hammer to push expander through first of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- drel is only partially above top of slider.
mately even with top of slider brace). 38. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
27. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up).
28. [ ] Repeat steps 26–27 for remaining bushings through bushing. Remove tools, then install
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider bushings in other slider.
Bushing installation 40. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders.
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one 41. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For end of rebound (right) shaft.
example, 1.186 and 1.187 can be used together, but 1.186 NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
and 1.188 cannot be used together. Always start installation 42. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest fit to chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
43. [ ] Hook one spring coil of top-out spring under
bar inserted through threaded end of guide
nut, then insert left shaft through spring
and then nut.
nut
44. [ ] Travel adjust only: Insert travel-adjust tabs into
slot in left shaft, then insert travel-adjust rod
1.186 sizing ring
fully and rotate rod until tabs are engaged and
17mm spacer
move in and out with rod rotation (leave tabs in
1.187 sizing ring
and slide spring/nut assembly up to cover tabs).
washer
45. [ ] Install 6mm bit socket on long extension
nut
into top of left shaft, then insert assembly
(tool-end first) into bottom of left stanchion.
end of shaft, then install third nut on other
46. [ ] With bit-socket/extension still in place, use
end of shaft just until it is engaged.
24mm socket to thread guide nut into stan-
31. [ ] Place smaller O.D. bushing over sizing rings
chion and secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: Guide-
and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
nut lip must seat against stanchion.
680 on bushing.
47. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully up both
32. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
shafts (small-end first), install washer onto
left shaft, then slide spacer sleeves (large-
ends first) onto both shafts.
33. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
48. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions,
making sure foam rings are not dislodged as
they pass over ends of stanchion tubes.
38 – 38
49. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto stanchion tubes.
50. [ ] Carefully push slider assembly onto stan-
Right-leg assembly
63. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is approximately
chions about 3" (slider brace in back), then 120mm below top of fork crown, pump slider
engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers. up and down until bubbles stop rising in oil,
51. [ ] With fork in upright position (perfectly ver- then adjust final oil level to correct value from
tical), push slider assembly fully on, then following table. NOTE: Unacceptable oil level
return fork to horizontal position. can severely compromise fork performance
52. [ ] Travel adjust only: Thread hollow bolt clock- and rider safety. Under no conditions set an
wise into bottom end of left slider to engage oil level outside the acceptable range!
it to shaft threads (use extension to push
down on top of left shaft). Then secure bolt BLACK COIL-SPRING OIL DEPTHS
to 30in-lbs (hold bolt still and use torque Black type Max. level Ideal level Min. level
wrench on extension). Fluid Flow 114mm 119mm 124mm
All except travel adjust: Thread solid bolt TPC+ 91mm 95mm 100mm
clockwise into bottom end of left slider to
Quick Range 114mm 119mm 124mm
engage it to shaft threads (use extension to
push down on top of left shaft). Then secure Lock Out 105mm 108mm 111mm
bolt to 30in-lbs (hold shaft still and use In the following step, models with the Lock Out damper
torque wrench on bolt). need special precautions. There is an O-ring that makes the
53. [ ] Use extension to push down on right shaft
damper a very tight fit. If the damper is not installed correctly,
while using 8mm bit socket in bottom end of
shaft to turn shaft counterclockwise until it
the O-ring may end up torn or displaced. Test-compress the
is fully engaged. fork when assembly is complete. If flipping the lockout lever
54. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into makes no difference, the O-ring needs to be checked.
rebound damper, rotate fully clockwise, 64. [ ] All except Lock Out: Insert compression
then reinstall knob so indicator points close damper into right leg.
to “More” on decal. Retain knob with 2mm Lock Out only: Insert compression damper
hex-socket bolt (or Phillips screw), then turn into right leg until resistance is felt, then
knob fully counterclockwise. work damper carefully in by pushing down
55. [ ] Travel adjust only: With fork fully com- gently while rocking stanchion cap in a cir-
pressed, use travel-adjust knob to turn cular motion, until it inserts effortlessly.
adjuster fully clockwise. It may be necessary 65. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to
to remove and reposition knob counterclock- 30in-lbs.
wise on shaft and rotate it again to complete 66. [ ] Quick Range only: Use compression-damper
this step. Remove knob. knob to make sure adjuster is fully counter-
56. [ ] Travel adjust only: Place travel-adjust detent clockwise (it may be necessary to reposition
mechanism against bottom end of left slider knob on adjuster at least once).
and rotate until alignment tab seats in notch 67. [ ] Lock Out only: Place lockout knob on cap,
in slider face. secure with bolt, then fix lockout name plate
57. [ ] Travel adjust only: Place wavy washer on on top of knob.
top of detent mechanism, then place travel- Quick Range only: Place small plastic washer
adjust knob over detent mechanism so that on top of compression-damper adjuster, then
lever points to longer-travel setting. place knob on adjuster so knob lever is in
58. [ ] Travel adjust only: Thread in and gently counterclockwise-most possible position. Use
secure 2mm hex-socket bolt to secure 2mm hex-socket bolt to secure knob.
travel-adjust knob. 68. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
59. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
fully. Microlube port on back side of sliders.
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
60. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
heavy grease and insert into left leg, then TUNING OPTIONS
secure cap to 30in-lbs. Travel adjustment
61. [ ] Install preload-adjuster knob, then secure Models with external travel adjustment have a red
with 2mm hex-socket bolt.
knob at the bottom of the left leg. To adjust the travel,
62. [ ] Restore preload setting recorded in step 1.
set the knob to the desired travel, then fully compress
and release the fork.
38 – 39
Sag adjustment Rebound-damping adjustment

Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider This fork has an external rebound-damping adjustment
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user generally
The preload knob on top of the left leg adjusts the sag. does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the
Clockwise rotation reduces sag. There are approximately most clockwise adjustment does not create enough damp-
two full turns of adjustment. The following table shows ing for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could be
the recommended sag for each travel range. used, but this will also affect the compression damping.
BLACK SAG SETTINGS Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
Travel Sag range Compression-damping adjustment
80mm 12–16mm The Quick Range and TPC+ models have a compres-
100mm 18–24mm sion-damping-adjustment knob on the right leg. The user
120mm 25–28mm generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding
style. The Lock Out models have internal adjustment. The
If there is too much sag with a full clockwise
compression damper must be removed, revealing a hex-
adjustment of the preload knob, a ride kit for a heavier
socket screw just above the piston. It should be adjusted
weight range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full
in half-turn increments. If the most clockwise adjustment
does not create enough damping for the rider’s preference,
higher-weight oil could be used, but this will also affect the
has been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style
rebound damping by an even greater degree. The stock oil is
the rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride kit for a
5wt. Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the
Fluid Flow Damping is non-adjustable, but changing the
fork due to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for
oil weight changes the level of damping. Any change made
a lighter rider will provide a more comfortable ride. Before
will affect the rebound damping in the same way, and possibly
changing ride kits for these reasons, determine if the user
to a higher degree. The recommended oil is 5wt. Increasing
is aware of the travel-adjustment feature and whether he
the weight increases damping, and decreasing the weight
or she is experiencing an unacceptable rate of bottoming
reduces damping. Make changes by small increments.
only at the less-appropriate travel setting.
’02 BLACK RIDE KITS
MANITOU ’03 BLACK
Travel Color Rider weights Part #
80/100mm Blue 100-150lbs 85-4843
80/100mm
80/100mm
Red
Yellow
150-170lbs
170-190lbs
85-4844
85-4845
ELITE COIL FORK
80/100mm Black >190lbs 85-4846
100/120mm Blue 100-150lbs 85-4859 ABOUT THIS SECTION
100/120mm Red 150-170lbs 85-4860 This section covers the 2003 Manitou Black Elite
100/120mm Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4861 coil-spring model, which is the only 2002 or 2003 model
100/120mm Black >190lbs 85-4862 with a travel-adjustment knob on the top of the left
leg. All other Black models from these years either have
’03 BLACK RIDE KITS an air spring, no external travel adjustment, or a travel-
Travel Color Rider weights Part # adjustment knob on the bottom of the left leg. All of
80/100mm Green <130lbs 85-4970 these are covered elsewhere in this section.
80/100mm Blue 130-150lbs 85-4971 When procedures vary for different models, the varia-
80/100mm Red 150-170lbs 85-4972 tions are not be labeled by model name, but by the type of
80/100mm Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4973 compression damper (Lock Out, Quick Range, or TPC+).
80/100mm Black >190lbs 85-4974 The different compression dampers are easy to identify
100/120mm Green <130lbs 85-4975
before starting the procedure. The Lock Out damper has
a knob with that name on it and the words “off ” and “on”
100/120mm Blue 130-150lbs 85-4976
on the knob. The Quick Range damper has a knob with a
100/120mm Red 150-170lbs 85-4977
lever that points down and the notation “– Compression
100/120mm Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4978
+” on it. The TPC+ knob has no notations, and it is the
100/120mm Black >190lbs 85-4979 only knob that turns several rotations.
38 – 40

STICTION CORRECTION RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER

If the travel-adjust knob has not been properly set up,
If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly and the fork will not change travel when the knob is changed
fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess friction between travel settings. For the purpose of taking advan-
between the stanchions and the bushings). The Black fork tage of this feature, or for the purpose of disassembling
models can be lubricated without disassembly by using the the fork safely, the adjuster must be reclocked. The fol-
Prep M grease gun. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep M lowing procedure includes a test for whether the travel-
grease from a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex product adjustment feature is functioning correctly and a method
(amber). The greases should not be mixed. If the matching for correcting it if not.
grease is not available, then the slider should be removed and
cleaned of the other grease before adding new grease. Testing travel adjustment
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. NOTE: This procedure can be performed with fork
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each in bike, but if fork is being removed for other
slider so they are free of dirt. reasons, this procedure is more easily done
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past with fork out of bike.
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper 1. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease long-travel position.
into each Microlube port. 2. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times, release fork.
observing whether stiction is reduced. 3. [ ] Use marker on stanchion to mark top of
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary slider seal or boot.
to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution 4. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully counterclock-
because injecting too much grease can force wise to short-travel position.
upper bushing out top of slider. An increase in 5. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
force required to pump grease indicates grease release fork.
cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in 6. [ ] Use marker on stanchion to mark top of
forks with badly worn bushings. slider seal or boot.
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then 7. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
attach boots. long-travel position.
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn, 8. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease release fork.
9. [ ] Compare marks. If marks are not approxi-
mately 20mm apart, travel adjuster is not
working.
can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually Reclocking travel adjuster
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised. 1. [ ] If travel test has failed, compress and
release fork with knob in most clockwise
position, then rotate knob fully clockwise
OIL CHANGE ONLY and release to see if knob springs slightly
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the back on its own.
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping 2. [ ] If knob springs back from clockwise limit:
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). Turn knob fully counterclockwise, remove
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7. and reinstall knob onto shaft 1/6 turn further
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 64 (ignore adjust- clockwise, then test travel adjustment again.
ing final oil level). Repeat this step until spring-back is gone.
3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7. If knob does not spring back from clockwise
4. [ ] Repeat step 64 (do adjust final oil level). limit: Turn knob fully clockwise, remove and
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 65–68. reinstall knob onto shaft 1/6 turn further
counterclockwise, then test travel adjustment
again. Repeat this step until test is passed.
SPRING CHANGE ONLY
38 – 41
3. [ ] If travel cannot be successfully reclocked in 10. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to unthread screw in
step 2, internal travel mechanism is damaged. rebound-adjuster knob on bottom of right
NOTE: Due to possibility of left stanchion cap slider, then remove knob.
being under high spring load, proceed with 11. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft in
extreme caution when unthreading cap! right slider clockwise at least 7 full turns.
FULL FORK SERVICE 13. [ ] First noting sequences and orientations,
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and slide spacer sleeves, washers (if any), and
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical bottom-out bumpers off ends of shafts.
position with back side facing you for follow- 14. [ ] Push left shaft mostly into guide nut at
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. bottom of left stanchion, then use 24mm
socket to unthread guide nut and remove
Spring removal assembly (including shaft).
NOTE: When servicing travel-adjustable models,
15. [ ] Remove guide nut and spring from bottom
turn travel knob to longest-travel setting, then
of left shaft (spring will easily separate from
compress and release fork before proceeding.
guide nut once shaft is removed).
If fork fails to go to long-travel mode, perform
16. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut
RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER before proceeding!
1. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove travel-adjuster
socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end
knob.
of right stanchion.
2. [ ] Use 20mm socket to fully unthread left stan-
17. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
chion cap.
remove O-ring from base of shaft threads,
3. [ ] Pull out cap and spring assembly.
then remove seal nut from shaft.
Right-leg disassembly 18. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals,
4. [ ] TPC+ only: Use 27mm socket to unthread then pry seals out of top ends of sliders.
right stanchion cap (leave in place for now).
Quick Range only: Use 2mm hex key to
19. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
unthread bolt that retains compression-damper
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
knob, then remove adjusting knob and small
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
plastic washer that is under adjusting knob.
plastic and rubber parts!
Use 20mm socket to unthread stanchion cap.
20. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears
Lock Out only: Turn lockout to off position.
or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in
Pry name plate off top of lockout knob and
slider tube, seal nut needs replacement).
use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to remove
21. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
retaining bolt and remove knob. Then use
27mm socket to unthread right stanchion cap.
22. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Cream-colored
5. [ ] All except Lock Out: Withdraw compression
plastic coating in bushings will be partially
damper from top of stanchion (be prepared
missing, exposing metal base material, if
for oil to spill).
bushings are worn out.
Lock Out only: Pull damper up until resis-
23. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper
tance is felt, then continue to pull up gently
shaft for scratches or wear marks.
while applying a circular rocking motion to
stanchion cap until damper pulls up effort- Bushing removal
lessly (be prepared for oil to spill). For information on bushing removal and installation
6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
right leg into waste receptacle. NOTE: Skip to step 40 if not replacing bushings.
7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt 24. [ ] Install expander with 2.0mm wall thickness
(stock is 5wt). (tapered-end first) on larger column, then
Slider and shaft removal install long tube.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 25. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle,
8. [ ] Insert spring (not dowel) into top of left then thread handle onto column.
stanchion to put pressure on plunger assem- 26. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use
bly while performing next step. slide hammer to push expander through first
9. [ ] Use wrench to unthread 7/16" hex-head bolt bushing (until top of long tube is approxi-
on bottom of left leg. mately even with top of slider brace).
38 – 42
Travel-adjust knob TPC+
Stanchion cap
Plastic washer
Spring assembly
Spring
(partial)
Boot
Stanchion
Foam ring (partial)
Plunger shaft
(travel-adjust Wiper seal
mechanism
built in) Bushing
Bushing
Slider (partial) Slider (partial) Rebound damper
Bolt Rebound
knob
Top-out spring
Shaft guide Conical bumper
Conical washer Spacer sleeve

Washer
Seal nut
Spacer sleeve
O-ring
38.8 A Black Elite coil fork with top-position travel-adjust mechanism.
38 – 43
27. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide 39. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
hammer to pull bushing from slider. through bushing, remove tools, then install
28. [ ] Repeat steps 26–27 for remaining bushings bushings in other slider.
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider
for each lower bushing). Shaft and slider installation
40. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders.
Bushing installation 41. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one end of rebound (right) shaft.
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
example, 1.186 and 1.187 can be used together, but 1.186 42. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
and 1.188 cannot be used together. Always start instal- chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
lation with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest
fit to the stanchions. bar inserted through threaded end of guide
29. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following nut, then insert left shaft through spring
order to either end of shaft: and then nut.
nut 44. [ ] Rotate travel adjuster on top of left shaft
30.0mm mandrel (large-end first) assembly until travel-adjust tabs are retracted.
1.186 sizing ring 45. [ ] Insert assembly into bottom of left stanchion.
17mm spacer 46. [ ] Use 24mm socket to thread guide nut into
1.187 sizing ring stanchion and secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
washer Guide-nut lip must seat against stanchion.
nut 47. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully up both
30. [ ] Secure nuts together, with assembly fully at shafts (small-end first), install washers (if
end of shaft, then install third nut on other any) onto shafts, slide spacer sleeves (large-
end of shaft just until it is engaged. ends first) onto both shafts, then install O-
31. [ ] Place smaller O.D. bushing over sizing rings ring over threads on end of right shaft.
and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite 48.[ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchion
680 on bushing. tubes, making sure foam rings are not dis-
32. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on lodged as they pass over ends of stanchions.
top of shaft with weight until assembly feels 49. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto stanchion tubes.
like it has “bottomed.” 50. [ ] Carefully push slider assembly onto stan-
33. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft chions about 3" (slider brace in back), then
and against end of slider (flat-face up). engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers.
34. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull 51. [ ] With fork in upright position (perfectly ver-
through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED tical), push slider assembly fully on, then
TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end return fork to horizontal position.
wrench to tighten nut. 52. [ ] Thread 7/16" hex-head bolt clockwise into
35. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide bottom end of left slider to engage it to shaft
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace threads (use spring to push down on top of
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel, left shaft), then secure bolt to 40–50in-lbs.
reassemble tool with 1.188 and then 1.187 53. [ ] Use spring to push down on right shaft
sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too while using 8mm bit socket in bottom end of
tight, use 1.189 and then 1.188 sizes (etc.). shaft to turn shaft counterclockwise until it
When satisfied with fit, assemble installa- is fully engaged.
tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on 54. [ ] Insert damper-adjuster knob into rebound
sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then damper, rotate fully clockwise, then reinstall
larger sizing ring). knob so indicator points close to “More” on
36. [ ] Place larger O.D. bushing over sizing rings decal. Retain knob with 2mm hex-socket
and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops bolt, then turn knob fully counterclockwise.
of Loctite 680 on bushing. 55. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a
37. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top heavy grease and check for nylon washer on
of shaft with weight until nut on top of man- top of travel adjuster.
drel is only partially above top of slider. 56. [ ] With fork fully compressed, insert spring in
38. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over right stanchion and use spring assembly to
shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up). turn travel adjuster clockwise until spring
resistance is felt.
38 – 44
57. [ ] Push slider fully down and check if spring 68. [ ] Lock Out only: Place lockout knob on cap,
coils are completely inside stanchion. If not, secure with bolt, then fix lockout name plate
repeat previous step. on top of knob.
58. [ ] Use marker to place matching marks Quick Range only: Place small plastic washer
between hex shaft (on top of spring assem- on top of compression-damper adjuster, then
bly) and fork crown. place knob on adjuster so knob lever is in
59. [ ] While pressing firmly down on slider, thread counterclockwise-most possible position. Use
in left stanchion cap and secure to 30in-lbs. 2mm hex-socket bolt to secure knob.
60. [ ] If marks have misaligned, use 7mm wrench 69. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
to rotate hex shaft counterclockwise until to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
matching marks line up. Microlube port on back side of sliders.
61. [ ] Make sure plastic washer(s) that retain knob 70. [ ] Perform travel-adjustment test, then reclock
screw into travel-adjuster knob are installed. travel adjuster as necessary.
62. [ ] Install travel-adjuster knob onto hex shaft in
most clockwise position that allows lever on
knob to clear fork crown, then gently secure
TUNING OPTIONS
knob-retaining screw. Sag adjustment
Right-leg assembly Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider sits
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The Black
63. [ ] Snap boots onto seals. Elite with top travel adjust has no preload to adjust sag. Sag
64. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is approximately can only be changed by changing the ride kit. The following
120mm below top of fork crown, pump table shows the recommended sag for each travel range.
slider up and down until bubbles stop rising
in oil, then adjust final oil level to correct
BLACK SAG SETTINGS
value from following table. NOTE: Unac- Travel Sag range
ceptable oil level can severely compromise 80mm 12–16mm
fork performance and rider safety. Under 100mm 18–24mm
no conditions set an oil level outside the 120mm 25–28mm
acceptable range!
If there is too much sag, a ride kit for a heavier weight
BLACK COIL-SPRING OIL DEPTHS range is needed. If there is too little sag, a ride kit for a
Black type Max. level Ideal level Min. level lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag has been
TPC+ 91mm 95mm 100mm achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style the rider
Quick Range 114mm 119mm 124mm regularly bottoms the fork, use a ride kit for a heavier rider.
Lock Out 105mm 108mm 111mm Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to a
In the following step, models with the Lock Out very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for a lighter rider
damper need special precautions. There is an O-ring will provide a more comfortable ride. Before changing
that makes the damper a very tight fit. If the damper is ride kits for these reasons, determine if the user is aware
not installed correctly, the O-ring may end up torn or of the travel-adjustment feature and whether he or she is
displaced. Test-compress the fork when assembly is com- experiencing an unacceptable rate of bottoming only at
plete. If flipping the lockout lever makes no difference, the less-appropriate travel setting.
the O-ring needs to be checked. ’03 BLACK ELITE RIDE KITS
65. [ ] All except Lock Out: Insert compression Travel Color Rider weights Part #
damper into right leg. 80/100mm Green <130lbs 85-4970
Lock Out only: Insert compression damper
80/100mm Blue 130-150lbs 85-4971
into right leg until resistance is felt, then
work damper carefully in by pushing down 80/100mm Red 150-170lbs 85-4972
gently while rocking stanchion cap in a cir- 80/100mm Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4973
cular motion, until it inserts effortlessly. 80/100mm Black >190lbs 85-4974
66. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to 100/120mm Green <130lbs 85-4975
30in-lbs.
100/120mm Blue 130-150lbs 85-4976
67. [ ] Quick Range only: Use compression-damper
knob to make sure adjuster is fully counter- 100/120mm Red 150-170lbs 85-4977
clockwise (it may be necessary to reposition 100/120mm Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4978
knob on adjuster at least once). 100/120mm Black >190lbs 85-4979
38 – 45
Travel adjustment bushings) is the problem. The Sherman model is oil lubricated
There is a travel-adjustment knob on the left leg. To and requires slider removal if stiction is occurring.
adjust the travel, set the knob to the desired travel, then fully
compress and release the fork. Clockwise is the long-travel
setting, and counterclockwise is the short-travel setting.
Rebound-damping adjustment OIL CHANGE ONLY
This fork has an external rebound-damping adjustment
(a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user generally
does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the
most clockwise adjustment does not create enough damp-
ing for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could be 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 63 (ignore adjust-
used, but this will also affect the compression damping. ing final oil level).
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. 3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7.
Compression-damping adjustment 4. [ ] Repeat step 63 (do adjust final oil level).
The Quick Range and TPC+ models have a compres-
sion-damping-adjustment knob on the top of the right leg.
The user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her SPRING CHANGE ONLY
riding style. The Lock Out models have internal adjustment. 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3.
The compression damper must be removed to reveal a small 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 55–62.
hex-socket screw just above the piston. It should be adjusted 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 67.
in half-turn increments. If the most clockwise adjustment
RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER
If the travel-adjuster knob has not been properly
rebound damping by an even greater degree. The stock oil is
set up, the fork will not change travel when the knob is
5wt. Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
changed between travel settings. For the purpose of taking
advantage of this feature, or for the purpose of disas-
sembling the fork safely, the adjuster must be reclocked.
MANITOU ’03 SHERMAN The following procedure includes a test for whether the
travel-adjustment feature is functioning correctly and a
FORKS method for correcting it if not.
Testing travel adjustment
ABOUT THIS SECTION NOTE: This procedure can be performed with fork
in bike, but if fork is being removed for other
This section covers the 2003 Manitou Sherman coil- reasons, this procedure is more easily done
spring models. This includes the Breakout, Firefly, Flick, with fork out of bike.
and Slider sub-models. 1. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
All of these sub-models except the Slider have exter- long-travel position.
nal travel adjustment. When procedures are unique due to 2. [ ] Compress fork as fully as possible, then
this feature, the variations are labeled Travel adjust only. release fork.
The models with travel adjustment are easy to identify 3. [ ] Use marker on stanchion to mark top of
before starting the procedure by inspecting for a travel-
4. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully counterclock-
adjustment knob on top of the left leg.
wise to short-travel position.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS release fork.
7. [ ] Turn travel-adjuster knob fully clockwise to
STICTION CORRECTION long-travel position.
release fork.
fully, stiction (excess friction between the stanchions and the
38 – 46
9. [ ] Compare marks. If marks are not approxi-
mately 20mm apart, travel adjuster is not
working. 8. [ ] Insert spring (not dowel) into top of left
Reclocking travel adjuster stanchion to put pressure on plunger assem-
1. [ ] If travel test has failed, compress and bly while performing next step.
release fork with knob in most clockwise 9. [ ] Use wrench to unthread 7/16" hex-head bolt
position, then rotate knob fully clockwise on bottom of left leg.
and release to see if knob springs slightly 10. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to unthread screw in
back on its own. rebound-adjuster knob on bottom of right
2. [ ] If knob springs back from clockwise limit: slider, then remove knob.
Turn knob fully counterclockwise, remove 11. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft
and reinstall knob onto shaft 1/6 turn further in bottom of right slider clockwise at least 7
clockwise, then test travel adjustment again. full turns.
Repeat this step until spring-back is gone. 12. [ ] Being prepared for oil in slider, pull slider
If knob does not spring back from clockwise assembly off stanchions.
limit: Turn knob fully clockwise, remove and 13. [ ] Noting order and orientation, remove any
reinstall knob onto shaft 1/6 turn further spacers, foam sponges, or bumpers from both
counterclockwise, then test travel adjustment shafts (sponges may have remained in sliders).
again. Repeat this step until test is passed. 14. [ ] Push left shaft mostly into guide nut at
3. [ ] If travel cannot be successfully reclocked bottom of left stanchion, then use 24mm
in step 2, internal travel mechanism is socket to unthread guide nut and remove
damaged. NOTE: Due to possibility of left assembly (including shaft).
stanchion cap being under high spring 15. [ ] Remove guide nut and spring from bottom
load, proceed with extreme caution when of left shaft (spring will easily separate from
unthreading cap! guide nut once shaft is removed).
16. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut
FULL FORK SERVICE socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and of right stanchion.
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical 17. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
position with back side facing you for follow- remove O-ring from base of shaft threads,
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. then remove seal nut from shaft.
18. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals,
Spring removal pick foam rings out from below seals, then
NOTE: When servicing travel-adjustable models, pry seals out of top ends of sliders.
turn travel knob to longest-travel setting, then
compress and release fork before proceeding. Cleaning and inspection
If fork fails to go to long-travel mode, perform 19. [ ] Clean all parts (including sponges) with mild
RECLOCKING TRAVEL ADJUSTER before proceeding! detergent and dry with lint-free rag and com-
1. [ ] Travel adjust only: Use 2mm hex key to pressed air. NOTE: Avoid using solvents to
remove travel-adjust knob. prevent damage to plastic and rubber parts!
2. [ ] Use 20mm socket to fully unthread left stan- 20. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears
chion cap. or nicks and replace as needed.
3. [ ] Pull out cap and spring assembly. 21. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
Right-leg disassembly 22. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Cream-colored
4. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to unthread bolt that plastic coating in bushings will be partially
retains compression-damper knob, then missing, exposing metal base material, if
remove adjusting knob and O-ring that is bushings are worn out.
under adjusting knob. Use 20mm socket to 23. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound damper
unthread stanchion cap. shaft for scratches or wear marks.
5. [ ] Withdraw compression damper from top of
stanchion (be prepared for oil to spill). Bushing removal
6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of For information on bushing removal and installation
right leg into waste receptacle. tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt NOTE: Skip to step 40 if not replacing bushings.
(stock is 5wt).
38 – 47
24. [ ] Install expander with 3.0mm wall thickness 36. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
install long tube. of Loctite 680 on bushing.
25. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle, 37. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
then thread handle onto column. of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
26. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use drel is only partially above top of slider.
slide hammer to push expander through first 38. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up).
mately even with top of slider brace). 39. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
27. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide through bushing, remove tools, then install
hammer to pull bushing from slider. bushings in other slider.
28. [ ] Repeat steps 26–27 for remaining bushings
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider Shaft and slider installation
for each lower bushing). 40. [ ] Insert foam rings on top of upper bushings,
then tap seals into tops of sliders.
Bushing installation 41. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one end of rebound (right) shaft.
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
example, 32.08 and 32.10 can be used together, but 32.08 42. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
and 32.15 cannot be used together. Always start instal- chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
fit to the stanchions. bar inserted through threaded end of guide
29. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following nut, then insert left shaft through spring
order to either end of shaft: and then nut.
nut 44. [ ] Rotate travel adjuster on top of left shaft
32.0mm mandrel (large-end first) assembly until travel-adjust tabs retract.
32.08 sizing ring 45. [ ] Insert assembly into bottom of left stanchion.
17mm spacer 46. [ ] Use 24mm socket to thread guide nut into
32.10 sizing ring stanchion and secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
washer Guide-nut lip must seat against stanchion.
nut 47. [ ] Slide bottom-out bumpers fully up both
30. [ ] Secure nuts together, with assembly fully at shafts (small-end first), install washers (if
end of shaft, then install third nut on other any) onto shafts, slide spacer sleeves (large-
end of shaft just until it is engaged. ends first) onto both shafts, then install O-
31. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings ring over threads on end of right shaft.
and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite 48.[ ] Install foam sponges onto spacer sleeves.
680 on bushing. 49. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto stanchion tubes.
32. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on 50. [ ] Carefully push slider assembly onto stan-
top of shaft with weight until assembly feels chions about 3" (slider brace in back), then
like it has “bottomed.” engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers.
33. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft 51. [ ] Inject 16cc of 5w-30w motor oil into hole in
and against end of slider (flat-face up). bottom end of each slider, then push slider
34. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull assembly on just until both shafts reach
through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED holes in bottoms of sliders.
TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end 52. [ ] Thread 7/16" hex-head bolt clockwise into
wrench to tighten nut. bottom end of left slider to engage it to shaft
35. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide threads (use spring to push down on top of
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace left shaft), then secure bolt to 40–50in-lbs.
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel, 53. [ ] Use spring to push down on right shaft
reassemble tool with 32.15 and then 32.10 while using 8mm bit socket in bottom end of
sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too shaft to turn shaft counterclockwise until it
tight, use 32.18 and then 32.15 sizes (etc.). is fully engaged.
When satisfied with fit, assemble installa- 54. [ ] Insert damper-adjuster knob into rebound
tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on damper and retain knob with 2mm hex-
sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then socket bolt.
larger sizing ring). NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
38 – 48
Travel-adjust knob TPC+
Stanchion cap
Plastic washer
Spring assembly
Spring
(partial)
Boot
Stanchion
Foam ring (partial)
Plunger shaft
(travel-adjust Wiper seal
mechanism
built in) Bushing
Bushing
Sponge
Rebound damper
Top-out spring
Bolt Rebound
knob
Shaft guide Conical bumper
Conical washer Spacer sleeve

Washer
Seal nut
Spacer sleeve
O-ring
38.9 Manitou Sherman fork.
38 – 49
55. [ ] Grease spring assembly thoroughly with a be changed by changing the ride kit. The following table
heavy grease and check for nylon washer on shows the recommended sag for each travel range.
top of travel adjuster.
56. [ ] Travel adjust only: With fork fully com- SHERMAN SAG SETTINGS
pressed, insert spring in right stanchion and Travel Sag range
use spring assembly to turn travel adjuster 110mm 22–37mm
clockwise until spring resistance is felt. 130mm/132mm 26–32mm
57. [ ] Travel adjust only: Push slider fully down and 152mm 30–38mm
check if spring coils are completely inside
stanchion. If not, repeat previous step. If there is too much sag, a ride kit for a heavier weight
58. [ ] Travel adjust only: Use marker to place range is needed. If there is too little sag, a ride kit for a lighter
matching marks between hex shaft (on top weight range is needed. If the correct sag has been achieved,
of spring assembly) and fork crown. but due to an aggressive riding style the rider regularly bot-
59. [ ] While pressing firmly down on slider, thread toms the fork, use a ride kit for a heavier rider. Conversely, if
in left stanchion cap and secure to 30in-lbs. the rider never bottoms the fork due to a very non-aggressive
60. [ ] Travel adjust only: If marks have misaligned,
riding style, a ride kit for a lighter rider will provide a more
use 7mm wrench to rotate hex shaft coun-
terclockwise until matching marks line up.
comfortable ride. Before changing ride kits for these reasons,
61. [ ] Travel adjust only: Make sure plastic determine if the user is aware of the travel-adjustment feature
washer(s) that retain knob screw into travel- and whether he or she is experiencing an unacceptable rate
adjust knob are installed. of bottoming only at the less-appropriate travel setting.
62. [ ] Travel adjust only: Install travel-adjust knob ’03 SHERMAN RIDE KITS
onto hex shaft in most clockwise position
Model Color Rider weights Part #
that allows lever on knob to clear fork crown,
then gently secure knob-retaining screw. Flick & Firefly Blue 130-150lbs 85-5178
Flick & Firefly Red 150-170lbs 85-5178
Right-leg assembly Flick & Firefly Red 150-170lbs 85-5183 (Ti)
Flick & Firefly Yellow 170-190lbs 85-5179
63. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is below top of
fork crown by amount in “Max” column in Flick & Firefly Yellow 170-190lbs 85-5184 (Ti)
following table, pump slider up and down Flick & Firefly Black 190-215lbs 85-5181
until bubbles stop rising in oil, then adjust Breakout Blue 130-150lbs 85-4956
final oil level to ideal level from following Breakout Red 150-170lbs 85-4957
table. NOTE: Unacceptable oil level can
Breakout Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4958
severely compromise fork performance and
rider safety. Under no conditions set an oil Breakout Black 190-215lbs 85-4959
level outside the acceptable range! Slider Blue 130-150lbs 85-5287
SHERMAN OIL DEPTHS Slider Red 150-170lbs 85-5288

Slider Yellow 170-190lbs 85-5289
Sherman type Max. level Ideal level Min. level
Slider Black 190-215lbs 85-5290
Single crown 86mm 88mm 91mm
Double crown 205mm 210mm 215mm
Travel adjustment
64. [ ] Insert compression damper into right leg. All of these models, except the Slider, have a travel-
65. [ ] Thread in damper. Torque to 30in-lbs. adjustment knob at the top of the left leg. To adjust the
66. [ ] Place seal O-ring on top of compression- travel, set the knob to the desired travel, then fully com-
damper adjuster, place knob on adjuster, then
press and release the fork. Clockwise is the long-travel
use 2mm hex-socket bolt to secure knob.
67. [ ] Travel adjust only: Perform travel-adjustment
setting, and counterclockwise is the short-travel setting.
test, then reclock travel adjuster as necessary. Rebound-damping adjustment
This fork has an external rebounding-damping
TUNING OPTIONS adjustment on the bottom of the right leg. The user gen-
erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style.
Sag adjustment If the most clockwise adjustment does not create enough
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. be used, but this will also affect the compression damping.
The Sherman has no preload to adjust sag. Sag can only Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
38 – 50
Compression-damping adjustment 4. [ ] Compress and release fork several times,

The Quick Range and TPC+ models have an external
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary
compression-damping adjuster on top of the right leg. The to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution
user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding because injecting too much grease can force
style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not create upper bushing out top of slider. An increase in
enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil force required to pump grease indicates grease
could be used, but this will also affect the rebound damp- cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in
ing by an even greater degree. The stock oil is 5wt. Make forks with badly worn bushings.
changes in oil weight by very small increments. 6. [ ] Push seals back into sliders, then attach
boots.
As noted in step #5, when bushings are badly worn,
there will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease
MANITOU ’00–’01 MARS & cavity is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bush-
X-VERT AIR-SPRING FORKS can lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/
steerer assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually
done as part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised.
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the air-spring 2000–2001 Manitou
Mars and X-Vert Air models. This includes: OIL CHANGE ONLY
’01 X-Vert Air An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
’01 Mars, Mars Elite, Mars Super damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
’00 Mars, Mars C, Mars CL (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
The Mars models that have no further designation 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7.
(Elite, Super, C, or CL) are referred to in the procedure as 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 64 (ignore adjust-
“basic Mars,” because calling them just “Mars” could cause ing final oil level).
them to be confused with the whole Mars model group. In
some Manitou literature, this model is called the Mars 1. 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 65–66.
The 2002 air-spring Mars models are covered else-
where in this chapter.
RIDE-KIT CHANGE ONLY
See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. NOTE: Extension cannot be used to push
rebound-damper shaft down to get threads
STICTION CORRECTION engaged in step 57. If problem occurs, pull

slider off and repeat step 52.
If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly and The original air-pressure setting will probably need
fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess friction to be changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING
between the stanchions and the bushings). These fork mod- OPTIONS at the end of this section).
els can be lubricated without disassembly by using the Prep
M grease gun. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep M
grease from a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex product FULL FORK SERVICE
(amber). The greases should not be mixed. If the matching NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
grease is not available, then the slider should be removed and clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
cleaned of the other grease before adding new grease.
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider.
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each Air-cap removal
slider so they are free of dirt. 1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper If pressure is low, inflate and use soapy
bushing is rising, inject 10 pumps of grease water to check for leaks at valve or at
into each Microlube port. perimeter of stanchion cap.
38 – 51
2. [ ] Use 27mm socket to remove left cap. ’00 Mars only: Unthread guide nut from bot-
3. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion. tom of left stanchion, then remove plunger
shaft and elastomer spring assembly.
Right-leg disassembly 16. [ ] Remove guide nut and top-out bumper from
4. [ ] All except Anti-Bob models: Use 27mm bottom of left shaft.
socket to unthread right stanchion cap
In the next step, the air piston is removed. This should
(leave in place for now). NOTE: If there are
no wrench flats, use fingers (or pliers if nec-
only be done if there was a problem with low pressure
essary) to remove cap. identified in step 1, but no leaks were found in step 1.
Anti-Bob models only: Pry off Anti-Bob name 17. [ ] Only if replacing it, remove air piston by
plate, remove screw that retains lever, then inserting a long shaft (<12mm diameter)
use 27mm socket to unthread right stan- into bottom of right stanchion, then tap on
chion cap (leave in place for now). shaft to drive air piston out top of stanchion.
5. [ ] All except Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models: With- 18. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft into seal nut
draw compression damper from top of stan- (leaving 1/2" sticking out), then use 24mm
chion (be prepared for oil to spill). socket to unthread seal nut from bottom end
Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models only: Pull damper up of right stanchion.
until resistance is felt, then continue to pull up 19. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
gently while applying a circular rocking motion then remove seal nut from shaft.
to stanchion cap until damper pulls up effort- 20. [ ] All with adjustable rebound damping: Use
lessly (be prepared for oil to spill). damper knob to unthread adjusting rod in
6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of end of rebound-damper shaft, then apply
right leg into waste receptacle. sidewise leverage to the knob while with-
7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt drawing adjusting rod from damper shaft.
(stock is 5wt). 21. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals,
then pry seals out of top ends of sliders.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. Cleaning and inspection
8. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot- 22. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
tom of left leg. with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
9. [ ] Pull rebound-damper knob off bottom of Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
right leg (no knob on basic ’01 Mars). plastic and rubber parts!
10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to remove 23. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears or
hollow bolt in bottom of right slider. nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in slider
11. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions (note tube, seal nut needs replacement). If piston
whether oil is in sliders), then remove boots. was removed, replace black seal on piston.
12. [ ] X-Vert Air only: Slide bottom-out bumpers 24. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
and spacer off left shaft. dropouts for bends and cracks.
Mars only: Remove clip from left shaft, then 25. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in
pull off bottom-out bumper (may be cone or bushings will be partially missing, exposing
accordion shape). brass flecks or metal base material, if bush-
13. [ ] All Mars with adjustable rebound damping: ings are worn out.
Rotate rebound-damper shaft until bearing 26. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
trapped under clear plastic sleeve is visible on shaft for scratches or wear marks.
top of shaft, then remove sleeve and bearing. Bushing removal
14. [ ] X-Vert Air only: While removing first bottom- For information on bushing removal and installation
out bumper on right shaft, be prepared to
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
catch small ball bearing trapped under bum-
NOTE: Skip to step 43 if not replacing bushings.
per on right shaft. Then remove spacer and
27. [ ] X-Vert only: Install expander with 2.0mm
other bumper.
wall thickness (tapered-end first) on larger
Mars only: Remove snap-ring, washer, and
column, then install long tube.
bumper (cone or accordion) from right shaft.
Mars only: Install expander with 1.4mm wall
15. [ ] All except ’00 Mars: Unthread guide nut from
thickness (tapered-end first) on larger col-
bottom of left stanchion, remove plunger-
umn, then install long tube.
shaft assembly, then drop coil spring and air-
28. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle,
piston shaft out bottom of left stanchion.
then thread handle onto column.
38 – 52
Valve cap
Stanchion
Plunger cap
shaft
Compression
Air piston
Seal damper
Bushing
Bushing
Piston shaft
Top-out
bumper
Elastomer
spring
Slider
Rebound
damper
Boot (2)
Detent
bearing
Hollow
bolt
Seal
Shaft guide
nut
5mm bolt
Bottom-out
Rebound Bumper
bumper
adjuster
Clip
Bumper
Stanchions
38.10 ’01 X-Vert air-spring fork.
38 – 53
29. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use 35. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
slide hammer to push expander through first top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- like it has “bottomed.”
mately even with top of slider brace). 36. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
30. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide and against end of slider (flat-face up).
31. [ ] Repeat steps 29–30 for remaining bushings through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
for each lower bushing). wrench to tighten nut.
38. [ ] X-Vert only: Test-fit stanchion in bushing
Bushing installation and decide whether fit is too tight. If too
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one tight, replace installation mandrel with siz-
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For ing mandrel, reassemble tool with 1.188
example, 1.186 and 1.187 can be used together, but 1.186 and then 1.187 sizing rings and repeat pro-
and 1.188 cannot be used together. Always start instal- cedure. If still too tight, use 1.189 and then
lation with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest 1.188 sizes (etc.). When satisfied with fit,
fit to the stanchions. assemble installation mandrel with sizing
32. [ ] X-Vert only: Assemble bushing-installer parts rings finally used on sizing mandrel (smaller
in following order to either end of shaft: sizing ring first, then larger sizing ring).
nut Mars only: Test-fit stanchion in bushing and
30.0mm mandrel (large-end first) decide whether fit is too tight. If too tight,
1.186 sizing ring replace installation mandrel with sizing man-
17mm spacer drel, reassemble tool with 1.130 and then
1.187 sizing ring 1.129 sizing rings and repeat procedure. If
washer still too tight, use 1.131 and then 1.130
nut sizes (etc.). When satisfied with fit, assem-
Mars only: Assemble bushing-installer parts ble installation mandrel with sizing rings
in following order to either end of shaft: finally used on sizing mandrel (smaller sizing
nut ring first, then larger sizing ring).
28.5mm mandrel (large-end first) 39. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
1.128 sizing ring and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
17mm spacer of Loctite 680 on bushing.
1.129 sizing ring 40. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
washer of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
nut drel is only partially above top of slider.
Only two sizing rings are used at one time, and these 41. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
shaft and against end of slider (flat face up).
should always be consecutive sizes. For example, 1.128 and
42. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
1.129 can be used together, but 1.128 and 1.130 cannot be
through bushing. Remove tools, then install
used together. Always start installation with the smallest pair, bushings in other slider.
which provides the tightest fit to the stanchions. If the fit
proves too tight, then use the next larger pair on the mandrel Shaft and slider installation
instead. If your tool is missing the 1.129–1.132 set of sizing 43. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders, then install
rings, Answer tool #85-5189 is a kit of all the parts of the coil-spring rings in seals (if any).
44. [ ] All with adjustable rebound damping: Use
bushing removal and installation tools that are unique to
rebound-damper knob to thread rebound-
forks with 28.6mm stanchions. If your tool is missing the adjusting rod fully into bottom end of
1.186–1.191 set of sizing rings, Answer tool #85-5194 is a kit rebound-damper shaft.
of all the parts of the bushing removal and installation tools 45. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded
that are unique to forks with 30.0mm stanchions. end of rebound (right) shaft.
33. [ ] Secure nuts together, with assembly fully at NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
end of shaft, then install third nut on other 46. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
end of shaft just until it is engaged. chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
34. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion.
680 on bushing.
38 – 54
47. [ ] X-Vert only: Slide bottom-out bumpers and
spacer onto right shaft, just until they clear
Right-leg assembly
64. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is at ideal level
hole for detent bearing, then insert bear- from following chart. Pump slider up and
ing in hole and pull bumper stack down just down until bubbles stop rising in oil, then
enough to cover bearing. readjust oil level. NOTE: Unacceptable oil
Mars only: Slide bottom-out bumper (coni- level can severely compromise fork perfor-
cal ones small-end first) and washer onto mance and rider safety. Under no conditions
right shaft, then engage snap-ring in groove. set an oil level outside the acceptable range!
Place bearing in hole in shaft, then push
detent sleeve over bearing. X-VERT AIR & MARS OIL DEPTHS
48. [ ] Install accordion-shaped top-out bumper and Year/Model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
guide nut (threaded-end first) onto left shaft. 01 X-Vert Air 89mm 95mm 102mm
49. [ ] Thoroughly grease elastomer or coil spring 00 Mars (all) 95mm 101mm 108mm
with heavy grease, then assemble spring
01 Mars 101mm 114mm 127mm
and air-piston shaft to top of left shaft.
50. [ ] Insert left-side assembly into left stanchion 01 Mars Elite 95mm 101mm 108mm
and secure guide nut to <10in-lbs. NOTE: 01 Mars Super 89mm 95mm 102mm
Nut lip must contact stanchion.
In the following step, models with the Anti-Bob/Lok-
51. [ ] X-Vert only: Install bumper/spacer stack on
bottom of left shaft. Out damper need special precautions. There is an O-ring
Mars only: Install bumper (small-end first, if that makes the damper a very tight fit. If the damper is
any), then clip, on bottom of left shaft. not installed correctly, the O-ring may end up torn or
52. [ ] Pull both shafts fully down, then slide both displaced. Test-compress the fork when assembly is com-
upper bumpers fully up shafts. plete. If flipping the lockout lever makes no difference,
53. [ ] Treat threads inside of both shafts with the O-ring needs to be checked.
Loctite 242. 65. [ ] Models with no Anti-Bob/Lok-Out only: Insert
54. [ ] Slide small ends of boots onto stanchions. compression damper fully into right stanchion.
55. [ ] Push slider assembly fully onto stanchions. Anti-Bob/Lok-Out models only: Insert com-
56. [ ] Thread 4mm bolt into bottom of left slider, pression damper into right leg until resistance
then secure to 30in-lbs. is felt, then work damper carefully in by push-
57. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of right ing down gently while rocking stanchion cap
shaft (make sure that threads inside right in a circular motion, until it inserts effortlessly.
shaft are down to end of hole in slider), then 66. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to
thread in hollow bolt and secure to 30in-lbs. 30in-lbs.
NOTE: If shaft will not seat, it may need to 67. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease
be aligned with hole. to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each
58. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into Microlube port on back side of sliders.
rebound damper.
59. [ ] Snap boots onto seals, then extend slider
fully. TUNING OPTIONS
60. [ ] If air piston was removed, carefully insert Sag adjustment
air piston into top of left stanchion (cup- Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the
face up), using a gentle downward pres- rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding posi-
sure applied with a rotating motion around tion. Air pressure and the ride kit being used combine to
perimeter of cap. determine the sag.
61. [ ] Pour 3cc of 20-50wt motor oil (or other suit-
able air-piston lube) into left stanchion.
SAG SETTINGS
62. [ ] Thread in stanchion cap and secure to Travel Sag range
30in-lbs. 80mm (Mars) 12–16mm
63. [ ] Inflate air piston to 110% of original pres- 105mm (X-Vert) 18–24mm
sure, or to 75% of rider weight (190psi max-
imum safe pressure), then install valve cap. If the wrong ride kit for the rider’s weight is in the
fork, adjusting the air pressure alone to achieve the correct
sag could be inappropriate. The recommended pressure
of 75% of the rider’s body weight should be considered
a starting point. Try different pressures to achieve the
38 – 55
correct sag, but be aware that large pressure changes can also affect the rebound damping by an even greater degree.
cause the fork to not use all its travel (too much pressure) Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. On
or bottom too easily (too little pressure). the model without a damping adjustment, changing oil
If the correct sag has been achieved, but due to an weight is the only way to change the damping.
aggressive riding style the rider regularly bottoms the fork,
use a ride kit for a heavier rider and/or increase the pressure.
Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to a very
non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for a lighter rider will MANITOU ’02–’03
provide a more comfortable ride. Kits with no part number
that are noted as “original” in the following table are only BLACK AIR FORKS
available with the fork, and are not available separately.
X-VERT & MARS AIR-SPRING RIDE KITS ABOUT THIS SECTION
Year/Model Color Rider weights Part # This section covers the 2002 and 2003 Manitou Black
01 X-Vert Air Blue <150lbs 85-9189 air-spring forks, including the following models:
01 X-Vert Air Red 150-170lbs original ’02–’03 Elite Air 80
01 X-Vert Air Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9190 ’02 Super Air 100
01 X-Vert Air Black >190lbs 85-9226 ’02 Super Air 100 Lock Out
00 Mars Green <150lbs 062895
’02 Super Air 120
’02 Super Air 120 Lock Out
00 Mars Blue 150-170lbs 041424
’03 Super Air 80/100 Lock Out
00 Mars Red 170-190lbs 041425
’03 Super Air 100/120 Lock Out
00 Mars Yellow >190lbs 041426
The models that do not have “Lock Out” in their
01 Mars Blue <150lbs 85-9187 name all have Quick Range compression damping. For
01 Mars Red 150-170lbs original simplicity, when procedures vary for different models, the
01 Mars Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9188 variations are not be labeled by model name, but by the
01 Mars Black >190lbs 85-9226 type of compression damper (Lock Out or Quick Range).
The different compression dampers are easy to identify
Rebound-damping adjustment before starting the procedure. The Lock Out damper
These forks (except the basic model of ’01 Mars) have has a knob with that name on it and the words “off ”
an external rebound-damping adjuster (a knob on the bot- and “on” on the knob. The Quick Range damper has an
tom of the right leg). The user generally does this adjust- adjustment knob with a lever that points down and the
ment to suit his or her riding style. If the most clockwise notation “– Compression +” on it.
adjustment does not create enough damping for the rider’s The ’03 Super Air models have a travel-adjustment
preference, higher-weight oil could be used, but this will mechanism (a knob at the bottom of the left leg). For sim-
also affect the compression damping. Make changes in oil plicity, when procedures vary for different models because
weight by very small increments. On the model without of the travel adjustment, the variations are not be labeled by
the damping adjustment, changing oil weight is the only model name, but by the notation Travel adjust only.
way to change the damping. This section does not cover the Black coil-spring
Compression-damping adjustment models, which are covered elsewhere in this chapter.
These forks have an external compression-damping
adjuster (a knob on the top of the right leg) or an Anti- TOOL REQUIREMENTS
Bob lever, except the basic model of ’01 Mars, which has See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
neither. If there is external damping adjustment, the user
The models with Anti-Bob have a small hex-socket screw STICTION CORRECTION
on the compression-damper shaft just above the piston. To If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly and
adjust these, remove the compression damper and adjust fully, stiction (excess friction between the stanchions and
the hex-socket screw in half-turn increments. Whichever the bushings) is the problem. The Black fork models can be
the method of adjustment, if the most clockwise adjust- lubricated without disassembly by using the Prep M grease
ment does not create enough damping for the rider’s gun. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep M grease from
preference, higher-weight oil could be used, but this will a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex product (amber).
38 – 56
The greases should not be mixed. If the matching grease is 120 models can be converted to 100mm of travel (part
not available, then the slider should be removed and cleaned # 85-4818). The shaft assembly in the bottom of the left
of the other grease before adding new grease. leg must be replaced in order to do this. The procedure
1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider. is essentially the same as replacing a ride kit.
2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each The ’03 Super Air 80/100 and Super Air 100/120 have
slider so they are free of dirt. external travel adjustment at the bottom of the left leg.
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past Since this is an adjustment and not a service, it is covered
upper bushing, or for any sign that upper
in TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section.
FULL FORK SERVICE
5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution position with back side facing you for follow-
because injecting too much grease can force ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
force required to pump grease indicates grease Air-cap removal
cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in 1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
forks with badly worn bushings. measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.
6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then If pressure is low, inflate and use soapy
attach boots. water to check for leaks at valve or at
As noted in step 5, when bushings are badly worn, there perimeter of stanchion cap.
will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease cavity 2. [ ] Use 20mm socket to remove left cap.
is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bushing. 3. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion.
Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which can NOTE: Air piston may fall out when fork is
inverted, particularly if fork is compressed
lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/steerer
rapidly. This is not a problem, but piston
assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually done as should not be forced out.
part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised.
4. [ ] Quick Range only: Use 2mm hex key to
OIL CHANGE ONLY unthread bolt that retains compression-
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the damper knob, then remove knob and small
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping plastic washer that is under knob. Use 20mm
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). socket to unthread stanchion cap.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7. Lock Out only: Turn lockout to off position.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 66 (ignore adjust- Pry name plate off top of lockout knob, use
ing final oil level). 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to remove retain-
3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7. ing bolt and remove knob, then use 27mm
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 66–70. socket to unthread right stanchion cap.
5. [ ] Quick Range only: Withdraw compression
damper from top of stanchion (expect oil spill).
RIDE-KIT CHANGE ONLY Lock Out only: Pull damper up until resis-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 8–15. tance is felt, then continue to pull up gently
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 46–62. while applying a circular rocking motion to
NOTE: Extension cannot be used to push stanchion cap until damper pulls up effort-
rebound-damper shaft down to get threads lessly (be prepared for oil to spill).
engaged in step 56. If problem occurs, pull 6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
slider off and repeat step 50. right leg into waste receptacle.
The original air-pressure setting will probably need 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
to be changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING (stock is 5wt).
OPTIONS at the end of this section). Slider and shaft removal
TRAVEL CONVERSION 8. [ ] Travel adjust only: Use 2mm hex key to
unthread bolt on bottom of left leg, then
The Black Super Air 100 models can be converted to remove knob and detent mechanism.
120mm of travel (part #85-4808), and the Black Super Air
38 – 57
All: Use wrench to unthread 7/16" hex-head
bolt on bottom of left leg.
Bushing removal
For information on bushing removal and installation
9. [ ] Use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to
unthread screw in rebound-adjuster knob on
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
NOTE: Skip to step 42 if bushings are not being
bottom of right slider, then remove knob.
replaced.
10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft
26. [ ] Install expander with 2.0mm wall thickness
in bottom of right slider clockwise at least 7
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then
full turns.
install long tube.
27. [ ] Attach slide hammer assembly to handle,
then thread handle onto column.
12. [ ] Remove C-clip from left-side shaft, then slide
28. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use
spacer and bottom-out bumpers off shafts.
slide hammer to push expander through first
13. [ ] Unthread guide nut from bottom of left stan-
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi-
chion, then remove plunger-shaft assembly.
mately even with top of slider brace).
14. [ ] All except travel adjust: Remove guide nut and
29. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide
top-out bumper from bottom of left shaft.
hammer to pull bushing from slider.
Travel adjust only: Remove guide nut and
30. [ ] Repeat steps 28–29 for remaining bushings
spring from bottom of left shaft (spring will
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider
easily separate from guide nut once shaft is
removed). Pull travel-adjust rod from bottom
of left shaft, then remove travel-adjust tabs Bushing installation
from slots in left shaft. In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one
15. [ ] Drop coil spring and air-piston shaft out bot- time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For
tom of left stanchion.
example, 1.186 and 1.187 can be used together, but 1.186
In the next step, the air piston is removed. This should
and 1.188 cannot be used together. Always start instal-
only be done if there was a problem with low pressure
identified in step #1, but there were no leaks at the valve
fit to the stanchions.
or stanchion cap. 31. [ ] Assemble bushing-installer parts in following
16. [ ] Only if replacing it, remove air piston by order to either end of shaft:
inserting a long shaft (<12mm diameter) nut
into bottom of right stanchion, then tap on 30.0mm mandrel (large-end first)
shaft to drive air piston out top of stanchion. 1.186 sizing ring
17. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft mostly into seal 17mm spacer
nut, until about 1/2" of shaft is exposed. 1.187 sizing ring
18. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread seal nut from washer
bottom end of right stanchion. nut
19. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion, 32. [ ] Secure nuts together, with assembly fully at
then remove seal nut from shaft. end of shaft, then install third nut on other
20. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings (if any) from seals, end of shaft just until it is engaged.
then pry seals out of top ends of sliders. 33. [ ] Place smaller O.D. bushing over sizing rings
Cleaning and inspection and onto mandrel. Put 3–4 drops of Loctite
21. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry 680 on bushing.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 34. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to top of shaft with weight until assembly feels
plastic and rubber parts! like it has “bottomed.”
22. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears 35. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
or nicks and replace as needed (if oil is in and against end of slider (flat-face up).
slider tube, seal nut needs replacement). 36. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
23. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
dropouts for bends and cracks. TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
24. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in wrench to tighten nut.
bushings will be partially missing, exposing
brass flecks or metal base material, if bush-
ings are worn out.
25. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
shaft for scratches or wear marks.
38 – 58
AIR
Valve cap TPC Quick Range Lock Out
Stanchion cap (with air valve)
Air piston
Stanchion
(partial)
Piston shaft
Boot
Stanchion
Spring Foam ring (partial)
Wiper seal
Bushing
Bushing
Slider (partial) Slider (partial) Rebound damper

Plunger shaft
Bolt
Reboundknob
Conical bumper
Bottom-out
bumper
Spacer sleeve
Shaft guide

Clip O-ring
38.11 Black Air fork.
38 – 59
37. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide 51. [ ] Install spacer sleeve (large-end first) onto
whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace rebound-damper shaft.
installation mandrel with sizing mandrel, 52. [ ] Treat threads inside left shaft with Loctite
reassemble tool with 1.188 and then 1.187 242.
sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too 53. [ ] Lightly oil foam rings inside boots, then slide
tight, use 1.189 and then 1.188 sizes (etc.). small ends of boots onto stanchions, being
When satisfied with fit, assemble installa- careful not to dislodge foam rings.
tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on 54. [ ] Place coil-spring ring on each stanchion,
sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then then carefully push slider assembly fully
larger sizing ring). onto stanchions.
38. [ ] Place larger O.D. bushing over sizing rings 55. [ ] Travel adjust only: Thread hollow bolt clock-
and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops wise into bottom end of left slider to engage
of Loctite 680 on bushing. it to shaft threads (use extension to push
39. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top down on top of left shaft). Then secure bolt
of shaft with weight until nut on top of man- to 30in-lbs (hold bolt still and use torque
drel is only partially above top of slider. wrench on extension).
40. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over All except travel adjust: Thread solid bolt
shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up). clockwise into bottom end of left slider to
41. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull engage it to shaft threads (use extension to
through bushing, remove tools, then install push down on top of left shaft). Then secure
bushings in other slider. bolt to 30in-lbs (hold shaft still and use
torque wrench on bolt).
Shaft and slider installation 56. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of
42. [ ] Tap seals into tops of sliders. right shaft while turning 8mm bit socket
43. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded counterclockwise in bottom end of shaft
end of rebound (right) shaft. to engage it to slider threads. Then secure
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. shaft to <10in-lbs.
44. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan- 57. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: rebound damper, rotate fully clockwise,
Seal-nut lip must seat against stanchion. then reinstall knob so indicator points close
45. [ ] If removed, oil air piston and carefully insert to “More” on decal. Retain knob with 2mm
into top of left stanchion (cup-face up). hex-socket bolt (or Phillips screw), then turn
46. [ ] Grease coil spring thoroughly, then insert knob fully counterclockwise.
spring/shaft assembly, shaft-end first, into 58. [ ] Travel adjust only: With fork fully com-
bottom of left stanchion. pressed, use travel-adjust knob to turn
47. [ ] All except travel adjust: Install top-out bum- adjuster fully clockwise. It may be necessary
per fully onto remaining uninstalled shaft, to remove and reposition knob counterclock-
then put guide nut (threaded-end first) over wise on shaft and rotate it again to complete
end of shaft. this step. Remove knob.
Travel adjust only: Hook one spring coil of 59. [ ] Travel adjust only: Place travel-adjust detent
top-out spring under bar inserted through mechanism against bottom end of left slider
threaded end of guide nut, then insert left and rotate until alignment tab seats in notch
shaft through spring and then nut. Insert in slider face.
travel-adjust tabs into slot in left shaft, then 60. [ ] Travel adjust only: Place wavy washer on
insert travel-adjust rod fully and rotate rod top of detent mechanism, then place travel-
until tabs are engaged and move in and out adjust knob over detent mechanism so that
with rod rotation (leave tabs in and slide lever points to longer-travel setting.
spring/nut assembly up to cover tabs). 61. [ ] Travel adjust only: Thread in and gently
48. [ ] Install shaft assembly into bottom of left stan- secure 2mm hex-socket bolt to secure
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE: travel-adjust knob.
Guide-nut lip must seat against stanchion. 62. [ ] Engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers, snap
49. [ ] Install bottom-out bumper (small-end first) boots onto seals, then extend slider fully.
fully up shaft (to contact guide nut) and NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
install clip into shaft. 63. [ ] Pour 3cc of 20-50wt motor oil (or other suit-
50. [ ] Pull rebound shaft fully out, then install able air-piston lube) into left stanchion.
remaining bottom-out bumper (small-end 64. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to
first) fully up shaft (to contact seal nut). 30in-lbs.
38 – 60
65. [ ] Inflate air piston to 110% of original pres-
sure, or to following guidelines, then install
TUNING OPTIONS
valve cap. Sag adjustment
80–100mm travel: 75% of rider weight Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
120mm travel: 50% of rider weight sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air
(190psi maximum safe pressure)
pressure and the ride kit being used combine to determine
Right-leg assembly the sag. If the wrong ride kit for the rider’s weight is in the
66. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is approximately fork, adjusting the air pressure alone to achieve the correct
120mm below top of fork crown. Pump slider sag could be inappropriate. The recommended pressure
up and down until bubbles stop rising in oil, of 75% of the rider’s body weight should be considered a
then adjust final oil level to correct value from
starting point (50% for 120mm travel models). Try differ-
following table. NOTE: Unacceptable oil level
can severely compromise fork performance ent pressures to achieve the correct sag, but be aware that
and rider safety. Under no conditions set an large pressure changes can cause the fork to not use all its
oil level outside the acceptable range! travel (too much pressure) or bottom too easily (too little
pressure). The following table shows the recommended
BLACK AIR-FORK OIL DEPTHS sag for each travel range.
Travel/damper Max. level Ideal level Min. level
80/Quick Range 114mm 119mm 124mm
BLACK SAG SETTINGS
Travel Sag range
80mm 12–16mm
100/Lock Out 103mm 108mm 111mm
100mm 18–24mm
120mm 25–28mm
120/Lock Out 107mm 108mm 117mm
100/120 TPC+ 91mm 95mm 99mm If the correct sag has been achieved, but due to an
In the following step, models with the Lock Out aggressive riding style the rider regularly bottoms the fork,
damper need special precautions. There is an O-ring use a ride kit for a heavier rider and/or increase the pres-
that makes the damper a very tight fit. If the damper is sure. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due
not installed correctly, the O-ring may end up torn or to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for a lighter
displaced. Test-compress the fork when assembly is com- rider will provide a more comfortable ride.
plete. If flipping the lockout lever makes no difference, ’02 BLACK AIR-FORK RIDE KITS
the O-ring needs to be checked. Model Color Rider weights Part #
67. [ ] Quick Range only: Insert compression Elite Air Blue 100-150lbs 85-4851
damper into right leg. Elite Air Red 150-190lbs 85-4926
Lock Out only: Insert compression damper
Elite Air Yellow 190-215lbs 85-4856
into right leg until resistance is felt, then
work damper carefully in by pushing down Super Air Blue 100-150lbs 85-4865
gently while rocking stanchion cap in a cir- Super Air Red 150-190lbs 85-4833
cular motion, until it inserts effortlessly. Super Air Yellow 190-215lbs 85-4871
68. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to
30in-lbs. ’03 BLACK AIR-FORK RIDE KITS
69. [ ] Quick Range only: Use compression-damper Model Color Rider weights Part #
knob to make sure adjuster is fully counter- Elite Air Green 100-130lbs 85-4976
clockwise (it may be necessary to reposition
Elite Air Blue 130-150lbs 85-4980
knob on adjuster at least once).
70. [ ] Lock Out only: Place lockout knob on cap, Elite Air Red 150-170lbs 85-4981
secure with bolt, then fix lockout name plate Elite Air Yellow 170-190lbs 85-4982
on top of knob. Elite Air Black >190lbs 85-4977
Quick Range only: Place small plastic washer Super Air 80/100 Blue 100-150lbs 85-4985
on top of compression-damper adjuster, then
Super Air 80/100 Red 150-190lbs 85-4986
place knob on adjuster so knob lever is in
counterclockwise-most possible position. Use Super Air 80/100 Yellow 190-215lbs 85-4987
2mm hex-socket bolt to secure knob. Super Air 100/120 Blue 100-150lbs 85-4988
71. [ ] Use Manitou Prep M grease gun and grease Super Air 100/120 Red 150-190lbs 85-4989
to inject 50–75 squirts of grease into each Super Air 100/120 Yellow 190-215lbs 85-4990
Microlube port on back side of sliders.
38 – 61
Rebound-damping adjustment TOOL REQUIREMENTS

All these forks have an external rebound-damping See MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9.
adjuster (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user
If the most clockwise adjustment does not create enough STICTION CORRECTION
damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil could If a fork does not compress and extend smoothly
be used, but this will also affect the compression damping. and fully, this problem can be caused by stiction (excess
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. friction between the stanchions and the bushings). The
Mars fork model can be lubricated without disassembly
Compression-damping adjustment by using the Prep M grease gun. The Skareb model is oil
The Quick Range models have an external com- lubricated and requires slider removal if stiction is occur-
pression-damping adjuster (a knob on the top of the right ring. As of ’03, Manitou changed their Prep M grease from
leg). The user generally does this adjustment to suit his or a Maxima product (green) to a Motorex product (amber).
her riding style. The Lock Out models have an internal The greases should not be mixed. If the matching grease
adjustment. The compression damper must be removed. is not available, then the slider should be removed and
There is a small hex-socket screw just above the piston. It cleaned of the other grease before adding new grease.
should be adjusted in half-turn increments. For all these
models, if the most clockwise adjustment does not create Mars procedure
enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight 1. [ ] Lift boots and pry up seals on each slider.
oil could be used, but this will also affect the rebound 2. [ ] Wipe Microlube ports on back face of each
slider so they are free of dirt.
damping by an even greater degree. The stock oil is 5wt.
3. [ ] While watching for grease oozing up past
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. upper bushing, or for any sign that upper
MANITOU ’02 MARS &

’03 SKAREB AIR FORKS

5. [ ] Repeat steps 3–4 as many times as necessary
to eliminate stiction. NOTE: Use caution
(ELITE, SUPER, DIVA)

because injecting too much grease can force
force required to pump grease indicates grease
cavity is full, but this won’t be experienced in
ABOUT THIS SECTION forks with badly worn bushings.
This section covers the 2002 Mars and 2003 Skareb 6. [ ] Push seals back into tops of sliders, then
air-spring forks, including the Elite, Super, and Diva sub- attach boots.
models. This section does not cover the Mars Comp or As noted in step 5, when bushings are badly worn, there
Skareb Comp (coil spring) models, which are covered will be no increase in pumping effort when the grease cavity
elsewhere in this chapter. is filled and the excess starts oozing out the top bushing.
The Super and Diva models have a lockout damper, but Because this is an indication of worn bushings, which can
the Elite does not. Variations in procedure that are due to this lead to damage of the expensive stanchion/crown/steerer
difference are labeled Elite only or Super & Diva only. assembly, a bushing replacement service (usually done as
The Mars and Skareb forks have two different systems part of a complete rebuild) is strongly advised.
for bushing lubrication. The Mars utilizes grease and has
what Manitou calls “Microlube” grease ports on the back
Skareb procedure
To change the bushing lubricant in the Skareb forks,
face of each slider tube about 2–3" below the tops of the
perform FULL FORK SERVICE steps #8–#11, #21, and
tubes. The Skareb utilizes oil and has what Manitou calls
#54. Then, secure the left bottom bolt and the right shaft
“Semi-bath” lubrication. The Skareb may have bumps in
to 30in-lbs each.
the casting where Microlube grease ports would be located,
but there are no holes for grease injection. For simplicity,
when procedures vary for these two lubrication systems, OIL CHANGE ONLY
the differences are labeled with Microlube only or Semi- An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
bath only notations. damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
38 – 62
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–7. 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 62 (ignore adjust- (stock is 5wt).
3. [ ] Repeat steps 4–7 (including adjusting final Slider and shaft removal
oil level). NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
4. [ ] Repeat step 62. 8. [ ] Use 4mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot-
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 63–65. tom of left leg.
9. [ ] Use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to
unthread screw in rebound-adjuster knob on
RIDE-KIT CHANGE ONLY bottom of right slider, then remove knob.
10. [ ] Use 8mm hex key or bit socket to turn shaft
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 46–58. in right slider clockwise at least 7 full turns.
NOTE: Extension cannot be used to push 11. [ ] Microlube only: Pull slider assembly off stan-
rebound-damper shaft down to get threads chions (note whether oil is in sliders), then
engaged in step 56. If problem occurs, pull remove boots.
slider off and repeat step 50. Semi-bath only: Being prepared for oil in
The original air-pressure setting will probably need slider, pull slider assembly off stanchions.
12. [ ] Microlube only: Remove C-clip from left-side
to be changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING
shaft, then slide bottom-out bumpers and
OPTIONS at the end of this section).
spacer off shafts.
Semi-bath only: Noting order, remove any
FULL FORK SERVICE clips, spacers, foam sponges, or bum-
pers from both shafts (sponges may have
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical remained in sliders).
position with back side facing you for follow- 13. [ ] Unthread guide nut from bottom of left stan-
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. chion, then remove plunger-shaft assembly.
14. [ ] Remove guide nut and top-out bumper from
Air-cap removal bottom of left shaft.
1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then 15. [ ] Drop coil spring and air-piston shaft out bot-
measure existing air pressure: ________ psi. tom of left stanchion.
If pressure is low, inflate and use soapy In the next step, the air piston is removed. This should
water to check for leaks at valve or at only be done if there was a problem with low pressure
perimeter of stanchion cap. identified in step #1, but there were no leaks at the valve
2. [ ] Use 20mm socket to remove left cap. or stanchion cap.
3. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion. 16. [ ] Only if replacing it, remove air piston by
NOTE: Air piston may fall out when fork is inserting a long shaft (<12mm diameter)
inverted, particularly if fork is compressed into bottom of right stanchion, then tap on
rapidly. This is not a problem, but piston shaft to drive air piston out top of stanchion.
should not be forced out. 17. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft mostly into seal
Right-leg disassembly nut, until about 1/2" of shaft is exposed.
4. [ ] Elite only: Use 27mm socket to unthread 18. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread seal nut from
right stanchion cap (leave in place for now). bottom end of right stanchion.
Super & Diva only: Turn lockout to off 19. [ ] Remove damper assembly from stanchion,
position. Pry name plate off top of lockout then remove seal nut from shaft.
knob, use 2mm hex key (or #1 Phillips) to 20. [ ] Microlube only: Remove coil-spring rings (if
remove retaining bolt and remove knob, any) from seals, then pry seals out of top
then use 27mm socket to unthread right ends of sliders.
stanchion cap. Semi-bath only: Remove any coil-spring rings
5. [ ] Elite only: Withdraw compression damper from from seals, pick foam rings out from below
top of stanchion (be prepared for oil spill). seals, then pry seals out of top of sliders.
Super & Diva only: Pull damper up until
resistance is felt, then continue to pull up
21. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
gently while applying a circular rocking with lint-free rag and compressed air (includ-
motion to stanchion cap until damper pulls ing sponges removed from Skareb). NOTE:
up effortlessly (be prepared for oil to spill). Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of plastic and rubber parts!
right leg into waste receptacle.
38 – 63
AIR
Valve cap Quick Range Fluid Flow Lock Out
Stanchion cap (with air valve)
Air piston
Stanchion
(partial)
Piston shaft
Boot
Stanchion
(partial)
Foam ring
Spring
Wiper seal
Bushing
Bushing
Sponge
(Skareb only) Rebound damper
Plunger shaft
Bottom bolt Conical bumper

Bottom-out
bumper
Rebound knob Spacer sleeve
Shaft guide

Clip O-ring
38.12 Mars and Skareb air-spring forks.
38 – 64
22. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears or 35. [ ] Place correct-size slotted plate over shaft
nicks and replace as needed (Mars only, if oil and against end of slider (flat-face up).
is in slider tube, seal nut needs replacement). 36. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
23. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and through bushing, then remove tools. SPEED
dropouts for bends and cracks. TIP: Use an 11/16" ratcheting box-end
24. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Plastic coating in wrench to tighten nut.
bushings will be partially missing, exposing 37. [ ] Test-fit stanchion in bushing and decide
brass flecks or metal base material, if bush- whether fit is too tight. If too tight, replace
ings are worn out. installation mandrel with sizing mandrel,
25. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper reassemble tool with 1.130 and then 1.129
shaft for scratches or wear marks. sizing rings and repeat procedure. If still too
tight, use 1.131 and then 1.130 sizes (etc.).
Bushing removal When satisfied with fit, assemble installa-
For information on bushing removal and installation tion mandrel with sizing rings finally used on
tools, see MANITOU FORK TOOLS on page 38-9. sizing mandrel (smaller sizing ring first, then
NOTE: Skip to step 42 if bushings are not being larger sizing ring).
replaced. 38. [ ] Place larger-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
26. [ ] Install expander with 1.4mm wall thickness and onto installation mandrel. Put 3–4 drops
(tapered-end first) on larger column, then of Loctite 680 on bushing.
install long tube. 39. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap on top
27. [ ] Attach slide-hammer assembly to handle, of shaft with weight until nut on top of man-
then thread handle onto column. drel is only partially above top of slider.
28. [ ] Insert column into slider, then gently use 40. [ ] Place upper sleeve and slotted plate over
slide hammer to push expander through first shaft and against end of slider (flat-face up).
bushing (until top of long tube is approxi- 41. [ ] Tighten nut until both sizing rings pull
mately even with top of slider brace). through bushing, remove tools, then install
29. [ ] Turn assembly upside down and use slide bushings in other slider.
hammer to pull bushing from slider.
30. [ ] Repeat steps 28–29 for remaining bushings Shaft and slider installation
(except tool can be inserted fully into slider 42. [ ] Semi-bath only: Insert foam rings just above
for each lower bushing). upper bushings.
All: Tap seals into tops of sliders, then
Bushing installation install coil-spring rings in seals (if any).
In the next step, only two sizing rings are used at one 43. [ ] Place threaded end of seal nut onto threaded
time, and these should always be consecutive sizes. For end of rebound (right) shaft.
example, 1.128 and 1.129 can be used together, but 1.128 NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
and 1.130 cannot be used together. Always start instal- 44. [ ] Thread seal nut into bottom of right stan-
lation with the smallest pair, which provides the tightest chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
fit to the stanchions.
45. [ ] If removed, oil air piston and carefully insert
into top of left stanchion (cup-face up).
46. [ ] Grease coil spring thoroughly, then insert
nut
spring/shaft assembly shaft-end first into
bottom of left stanchion.
1.128 sizing ring
47. [ ] Install top-out bumper fully onto remain-
17mm spacer
ing uninstalled shaft, then put guide nut
1.129 sizing ring
(threaded-end first) over end of shaft.
washer
48. [ ] Install shaft assembly into bottom of left stan-
nut
chion and gently secure (<10in-lbs). NOTE:
Guide-nut lip must seat against stanchion.
end of shaft, then install third nut on other
49. [ ] Install bottom-out bumper (small-end first)
end of shaft just until it is engaged.
fully up shaft (to contact guide nut) and
33. [ ] Place smaller-O.D. bushing over sizing rings
install clip into shaft.
50. [ ] Pull rebound shaft fully out, then install
680 on bushing.
remaining bottom-out bumper (small-end
34. [ ] Insert assembly into slider, then tap gently on
first) fully up shaft (to contact seal nut).
38 – 65
51. [ ] Microlube only: Install spacer sleeve (large- MARS AIR-FORK OIL DEPTHS
end first) onto rebound-damper shaft.
Mars model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
Semi-bath only: Install spacer sleeves (large-
end first) onto shafts, then install foam Elite 100mm 105mm 110mm
sponges onto sleeves. Super 90mm 95mm 102mm
52. [ ] Treat threads inside left shaft with Loctite Diva 90mm 95mm 102mm
242.
53. [ ] Microlube only: Lightly oil foam rings inside SKAREB AIR-FORK OIL DEPTHS
boots, then slide small ends of boots onto Skareb model Max. level Ideal level Min. level
stanchions, being careful not to dislodge Elite 115mm 119mm 125mm
foam rings.
Super 105mm 107mm 110mm
54. [ ] Microlube only: Push slider assembly onto
stanchions until ends of shafts reach holes Diva 105mm 107mm 110mm
in bottoms of sliders. In the following step, models with the Lock Out
Semi-bath only: Push slider assembly 3" onto damper need special precautions. There is an O-ring
stanchions. Inject 16cc of 5w-30w motor oil
that makes the damper a very tight fit. If the damper is
into hole in bottom of each slider, then push
not installed correctly, the O-ring may end up torn or
slider assembly onto stanchions until ends of
shafts reach holes in bottoms of sliders. displaced. Test-compress the fork when assembly is com-
55. [ ] Thread 4mm bolt into bottom of left slider, plete. If flipping the lockout lever makes no difference,
then secure to 30in-lbs. the O-ring needs to be checked.
56. [ ] Use extension to push down on top of right 63. [ ] Elite only: Insert compression damper into
shaft while turning 8mm bit socket counter- right leg.
clockwise in bottom end of shaft to engage Super & Diva only: Insert compression
it to slider threads, then secure shaft to damper into right leg until resistance is felt,
<10in-lbs. then work damper carefully in by pushing
57. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into down gently while rocking stanchion cap in
rebound damper, rotate fully clockwise, a circular motion, until it inserts effortlessly.
then reinstall knob so indicator points close 64. [ ] Thread in compression damper and secure to
to “More” on decal. Retain knob with 2mm 30in-lbs.
hex-socket bolt (or Phillips screw), then turn 65. [ ] Super & Diva only: Place lockout knob on
knob fully counterclockwise. cap, secure with bolt, then fix lockout name
58. [ ] Snap boots onto seals (if any), then extend plate on top of knob.
slider fully. 66. [ ] Microlube only: Use Manitou Prep M grease
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. gun and grease to inject 50–75 squirts of
59. [ ] Pour 3cc of 20-50wt motor oil (or other suit- grease into each Microlube port on back side
able air-piston lube) into left stanchion. of sliders.
60. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to 30in-
lbs.
61. [ ] Inflate air piston to 110% of original pres- TUNING OPTIONS
valve cap.
Sag adjustment
80mm travel: 75% of rider weight
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air
(190psi maximum safe pressure)
pressure and the ride kit being used combine to determine
Right-leg assembly the sag. If the wrong ride kit for the rider’s weight is in the
62. [ ] Fill leg until surface of oil is approximately fork, adjusting the air pressure alone to achieve the correct
100mm below top of fork crown. Pump sag could be inappropriate. The recommended pressure
slider up and down until bubbles stop rising of 75% of the rider’s body weight should be considered a
in oil, then adjust final oil level to correct
starting point. Try different pressures to achieve the correct
value from following table. NOTE: Unac-
ceptable oil level can severely compromise sag, but be aware that large pressure changes can cause the
fork performance and rider safety. Under fork to not use all its travel (too much pressure) or bottom
no conditions set an oil level outside the too easily (too little pressure). The recommended sag for this
acceptable range! model is 12–16mm. If the correct sag has been achieved, but
due to an aggressive riding style the rider regularly bottoms
the fork, use a ride kit for a heavier rider and/or increase
38 – 66
the pressure. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the on top of the fork crown. The presence of this charac-
fork due to a very non-aggressive riding style, a ride kit for teristic, found in combination with stanchions that are
a lighter rider will provide a more comfortable ride. integrated with the fork crown, make it certain that the
MARS & SKAREB AIR-FORK RIDE KITS fork being considered is part of the group covered in this
section. Identification by this means is better than relying
Color Rider weights Part #
on model names, since there are similarly named forks
Green 100-125lbs 85-4808
that do not belong in the same group. The specific model
Blue 125-150lbs 85-4878 names that this section covers (as long as the fork does
Red 150-170lbs 85-4927 have integrated stanchions and is not a 2003 model) are:
Yellow 170-190lbs 85-9188 ’02 Dirtjumper (1 & 2)
Black >190lbs 85-5174 ’02 MXC (Air & Coil)
’02 MXR (Air & Coil)
Rebound-damping adjustment ’01–’02 Z1 Dropoff
All these forks have an external rebound-damping ’02 Z1 Wedge
adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The ’00–’01 Z3 (all sub-models)
user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding ’00–’01 Z3.5 (Air & Coil)
style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not create ’00–’01 Z4 (Air & Coil)
enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight ’01 Z5 (Air & Coil)
oil could be used, but this will also affect the compression There are Z3 and Z5 models that do not have inte-
damping. Make changes in oil weight by very small incre- grated stanchions that are not covered by this section.
ments. Potential confusion also exists with the Z1 and MXC
designations, both of which have model variations (with
Compression-damping adjustment integrated stanchions) that are not part of this group.
The Elite has an external compression-damping adjuster
There are many Z1 models that have a cartridge-damper
(a knob on the top of the right leg). The user generally does
system, and these are covered in different sections for
this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. The Super and
Marzocchi forks with cartridge dampers and integrated or
Diva models have an internal adjustment. The compression
removable stanchions. Z1 models with cartridge dampers
damper must be removed. There is a small hex-socket screw
have at least one damping adjuster (a slotted rod) protrud-
just above the piston. It should be adjusted in half-turn incre-
ing from a stanchion cap. The ’02 MXC + ECC model
ments. With all the models, if the most clockwise adjustment
also has a cartridge damper (with a lever) and is covered
in its own section in this chapter.
Within the group covered in this section, there are
rebound damping by an even greater degree. Make changes
variations in spring type (coil or air), coil-spring preload
in oil weight by very small increments.
adjustment (internal or external), and damping adjustment
(none, internal, or external).
If there are adjustment knobs on the stanchion
MARZOCCHI FORKS: caps, then there are coil springs inside. If there are no
knobs, but there are covers that can be removed from
’00–’02 NON-CARTRIDGE & the cap, then removing a cover will reveal a hex fitting
(internal preload adjustment) or an air valve. Variations
INTEGRATED STANCHIONS in procedure that are due to the spring differences are
marked either coil only or air only. Variations in proce-
dure that are due to the coil-spring preload differences
ABOUT THIS SECTION are marked either external preload or internal preload.
This section covers a group of Marzocchi forks that These preload distinctions are combined with the “coil
utilize a damping system that is not a cartridge and have only” distinction, when they apply.
stanchions that are integrated with the fork crown (non- If the fork has externally adjustable damping, there is
removable). Models with the same damping system, but a knob on the bottom of one or both slider tubes. There
with removable stanchions, require different service tech- is no way to determine from the outside whether a fork
niques and are covered elsewhere in this chapter. with no bottom-adjusters has internal valve adjustments
The distinguishing characteristic of the non-cartridge- or no valve adjustments except by knowing the model
damping system is that there are no damping adjustments name (see TUNING OPTIONS, Rebound-damping adjustment)
38 – 67
or by internal inspection. When the stanchion caps have
been removed and the oil has been drained, if a visual
OIL CHANGE ONLY
inspection of the damper pistons reveals a 3mm hex fit-
ting in the top of a piston, then there is internal valving
adjustment. Variations in procedure that are due to the 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–8.
damping-adjustment difference are marked either inter- 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 67–68.
nal adjust only or bottom adjust only. Some models 3. [ ] Repeat step #6 (both sides).
with bottom-adjusting valves have one bottom adjuster, 4. [ ] Repeat steps 67–68.
and some have two. Variations in procedure that are due 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 69–73.
to this difference are marked either dual bottom adjust
only or single bottom adjust only.
SPRING CHANGE ONLY
In addition to common tools, working on these forks 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 69–72.
requires some relatively unique tools. The original preload setting will probably need to be
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on at the end of this section).
these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R-
5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer
#R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver,
FULL FORK SERVICE
or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals. clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp position with back side facing you for follow-
of the type made for the purpose of carrying a bike in a ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
pickup truck.
Models with air springs have an air valve recessed
Disassembly
1. [ ] Coil, external preload only: Counting turns,
in the stanchion cap. A pump adapter #R-5321038 for turn both preload adjusters fully counter-
these valves is required, in addition to a high-quality clockwise and record number of turns here:
shock pump. left side ____ right side ____
A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile Coil, internal preload only: Remove rubber
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modifica- covers from stanchion caps, then use 4mm
tion of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets hex key to turn both preload adjusters fully
typically have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats counterclockwise and record number of
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. turns here: left side ____ right side ____
Air only: Remove valve caps on tops of stan-
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately at
chions. Use pump to measure existing pres-
the end of the socket. sures, then deflate valves.
For models with bottom-adjusting valves, a 15mm left side ____psi right side ____psi
socket at least 83mm long is required. A regular 15mm 2. [ ] Air only: If pressure loss is apparent, pres-
socket with an extension is not a suitable substitute, but surize valve and check with soapy water at
this combination is required for other procedures. valve and stanchion-cap perimeter. If no air
For models with internal damping adjustment, a 9"- is being lost, oil leaks at tops or bottoms of
long 3mm hex key is required. sliders are source of pressure loss (deflate
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings valves again).
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are 3. [ ] Use 21mm socket to remove left stanchion
cap.
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
4. [ ] Coil only: Withdraw spacer (if any),
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil washer, and spring(s) from left side.
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can NOTE: Depending on model, there may be
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is 1 or 2 springs per side.
more convenient. 5. [ ] Coil only: Repeat steps 3–4 for right side,
then thread right cap back into stanchion.
38 – 68
Both sides have matching the coil-

Preload spring or air-spring configurations
Air (shown to left).
stanchion stanchion
cap Dampers may be any combination Wiper seal
cap of the three types shown directly
below.
Sleeve Clip
INTERNAL-
ADJUST
Washer DAMPER Oil-pressure
seal
BOTTOM- C-clip NON- Washer

ADJUST ADJUSTABLE
DAMPER Valve
Spring DAMPER
(partial)
Split ring
Bushing
Damper
Stanchion
(partial)
Slider (partial)
Bottom nut
Top-out
Adjuster rod
spring
(valve and
c-clip shown Rebound-
Stop plate adjuster knob
just above rod)
(bottom-adjust-
Valve spring types only)
Valve plate
O-ring
Foot cap
O-ring
e-clip
Aluminum
sleeve
Snap ring
38.13 Marzocchi non-cartridge, integrated-stanchion forks (’00–’02) have two spring types and three damper types.
38 – 69
6. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump 21. [ ] Try to pull foot cap off with fingers. If it
slider and drain oil into empty waste recep- will not come off easily, put damper in vise
tacle. Stuff stanchion with lint-free shop upside down (do not clamp), with foot cap
paper towel to prevent further draining. at base end of shaft resting on top of vise
7. [ ] With fork in upright vertical position, remove jaws. Then tap on end of shaft with plastic
other stanchion cap, then repeat step 6. mallet to remove foot cap.
8. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt 22. [ ] Remove O-ring from end of shaft, then pull
(stock is 7.5wt). off aluminum sleeve, spring/valve-plate
9. [ ] Internal adjust only: Use long, 3mm hex key assembly, stop plate, and top-out spring
to rotate damping adjuster(s) fully counter- from damper shaft. NOTE: Older models
clockwise, counting turns, and record here: have a simple plastic plate for a valve, rather
left side ____ right side ____ than a coil-spring/plastic-plate assembly.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 23. [ ] Remove split ring from piston head.
10. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Locate whether 24. [ ] All except dual bottom adjust: Repeat steps
rebound-damping adjuster is on bottom of 21–23 for other damper.
left or right side, or both, and note here: Dual bottom adjust only: Repeat steps 16–
adjuster on right ____ left ____ 23 for other side.
11. [ ] Bottom adjust only: On inside face of 25. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
adjuster side, find hole near bottom of slider on tops of slider tubes.
and insert small tool to depress locking stud
for adjuster cap, then remove adjuster cap Cleaning and inspection
(both sides, if dual bottom-adjust model). 26. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water
12. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Use extra-long 15mm solution, then dry with compressed air and/
socket to remove nut(s) inside bottom(s) of or lint-free paper shop towels.
slider tube(s). 27. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
All others: Use 15mm socket on extension 28. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
to remove nuts inside bottoms of slider. bends.
13. [ ] Stuff bottoms of slider tubes with shop tow- 29. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
els, then pull slider off. 30. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
14. [ ] Remove snap-rings in bottoms of stan- marks, nicks, and scratches.
chions, then withdraw damper assemblies. 31. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops
15. [ ] Remove O-rings from foot caps at bottoms of sliders indicates oil-pressure seals are
of damper shafts. If O-ring(s) are not there, worn out.
they may have remained at bottom of slider 32. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
tube(s). NOTE: Some models have O-rings partially missing if bushings are worn out.
on bottom nuts, in which case there are no NOTE: Skip to step 43 if bushings and seals are
O-rings on foot caps. not being replaced.
16. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Use adjuster knob to Seal and bushing removal
rotate rod in adjuster-side damper assembly NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider
fully clockwise. assembly in fork clamp.
17. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Count grooves in 33. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
adjuster rod, including one for e-clip that is 34. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider.
below threaded stud on bottom of damper 35. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
shaft: ______ grooves. screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on
18. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Use pick to remove top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal
small e-clip on adjuster rod at base of (both sides).
adjuster-side damper shaft. NOTE: Skip to step 40 if bushings are not being
19. [ ] All adjustable dampers: Use pick to remove replaced.
circlip inside damper-piston head. 36. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals.
20. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Rotate knob fully coun- 37. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves
terclockwise until adjustable valve threads from sliders.
out top end of piston, then push adjuster rod
out top of piston. Seal and bushing replacement
Internal adjust only: Use 3mm hex key 38. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at
to turn adjustable valve clockwise until it either side of tubes, not at front or back.
threads out top end of piston. 39. [ ] Place washer on top of each bushing.
38 – 70
40. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face 58. [ ] Single bottom adjust only: Insert damper
first into slider tube. Then use seal installer with adjusting rod into bottom of adjuster-
to drive in seal (both sides). side stanchion (see step 10). Then insert
41. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat other damper into other stanchion.
with seal installer. All others: Insert damper assemblies into
42. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then both stanchions.
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring 59. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot-
rings if dust wipers are new). toms of stanchions.
60. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion.
Assembly 61. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non-
43. [ ] Install split ring into groove in damper-piston lithium suspension-specific grease.
head. 62. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions.
44. [ ] Install short top-out spring onto damper 63. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Turn fork so bottom
shaft. is angled up 45º. Place open 15mm nut
45. [ ] Install stop plate onto damper shaft. (hex-end first) over adjuster rod, use long
46. [ ] Install valve plate or spring/valve-plate 15mm socket to engage nut to damper-shaft
assembly (flat-face last) onto damper shaft. threads, then torque to 95in-lbs. (It may be
NOTE: Older models have a simple plastic necessary to push on top of damper while
plate for a valve, rather than a coil-spring/ engaging nut).
plastic-plate assembly. Dual bottom adjust only: Repeat this step for
47. [ ] Install aluminum sleeve (cupped-face first) second side.
onto damper shaft. NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
48. [ ] Install O-ring into groove on end of damper 64. [ ] All except dual bottom adjust: Push down
shaft (some pre-’02 models have no O-ring). on damper, then use regular 15mm socket
49. [ ] Place foot cap (tapered-end first) onto on extension to engage bottom nut, then
damper shaft, then seat until O-ring (if any) secure to 95in-lbs.
is covered. Non-bottom adjust only: Repeat this step for
50. [ ] Repeat steps 43–49 for other damper. second side.
51. [ ] Install O-rings onto foot caps. 65. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Align locking stud on
52. [ ] Identify which damper is bottom-adjustable adjuster-cap assembly with hole on inside
damper by finding which one has hole in face of adjuster-side slider tube, then press
bottom end of shaft. cap into tube while rotating knob to engage
53. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Install grooved end of adjusting rod. Check that stud has engaged
adjuster rod into top end of adjuster-side hole in slider.
damper until number of grooves counted in Dual bottom adjust only: Repeat this step for
step 17 are exposed at bottom of damper. second side.
54. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Install e-clip in adjuster- NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
rod slot that is just below damper shaft. 66. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil-
55. [ ] Bottom adjust only: Insert threaded end of spring rings to dust wipers.
adjustable valve into top of piston, then use 67. [ ] Add 75cc new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt
adjusting knob to turn rod clockwise until is stock).
valve is bottomed inside piston head. 68. [ ] With fork close to fully compressed, slowly
Internal adjust only: Insert threaded end and carefully pump slider up and down 1–
of adjustable valve into top of piston, then 2", repeatedly, until bubbles stop rising.
use 3mm hex key to thread valve counter- 69. [ ] With slider fully up, measure oil depth from
clockwise until valve is bottomed inside top of fork crown and adjust until depth is
piston head. correct in both stanchions (see following
56. [ ] Adjustable valve only: Install circlip in piston table). NOTE: Subtract 5mm from depth
head to retain adjustable valve. value for riders over 180lbs.
57. [ ] Internal adjust only: Restore damping
setting(s) recorded in step 9. OIL DEPTH
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. Spring Travel Depth
Coil 130mm 50mm
Coil 100–110mm 45mm
Coil 80mm 40mm
Air all 40mm
38 – 71
70. [ ] Coil only: Extend slider fully, then install MARZOCCHI COIL SPRINGS
coil springs. NOTE: If fork has multiple
Travel (mm) Color-length (mm) Rider weight Part #
springs on each side, install longest first
80 None-1651 145–180lbs 5141158
and shortest last.
71. [ ] Coil only: Install washer (cupped face, if any, 80 Yel/Blue-1652 120–155lbs 850658
up) and sleeve (if any) on top of each spring. 80 Green-165 145–180lbs 5141184
72. [ ] Thread in stanchion caps and secure to 80 Wht/Blue-1652 145–180lbs 850659
95in-lbs. 80 Red/Blue-165 2
180–240lbs 850660
73. [ ] Coil only: Reset preload adjuster to setting
100–110 None-1851 145–180lbs 5141156
recorded in step 1 (internal preload models,
install caps over preload adjusters). 100–110 Yellow-185 120–155lbs 5141112
Air only: Pressurize both sides to pressure 100–110 White-185 145–180lbs 5141113
recorded in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING 100–110 Red-185 170–205lbs 5141114
OPTIONS, then install valve caps. 100–110 Green-185 195–240lbs 5141190
130 None-2131 145–180lbs 5141155
TUNING OPTIONS 130 Yellow-213 120–155lbs 5141162
130 White-213 145–180lbs 5141163
Sag adjustment 130 Red-213 170–205lbs 5141164
130 Green-213 195–240lbs 5141191
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. On
coil-spring models, the preload adjusters on top of the 1
Progressive (non-linear) spring has closer-spaced
legs adjust the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces sag. On air- coils at top end of spring.
spring models, the air pressure adjusts sag. The following
2
These are dual-rate spring sets and consist of
two springs per side.
table shows the recommended sag for each travel range.
The following table of air pressures is a starting
SAG SETTINGS point. Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame
Travel Sag range design can and will lead to choosing an air pressure out-
80mm 8–16mm side the recommended starting range. Consider 65psi a
100mm 20–30mm maximum pressure.
110mm 22–33mm MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES
130mm 25–40mm Rider weights Pressure range
If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjust- 120–155lbs 20–30psi
ment of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight 155–180lbs 27–37psi
range, or an air-pressure increase, is needed. If there is 180–220lbs 35–45psi
too little sag with a full counterclockwise adjustment of >210lbs 42–55psi
the preload knob, a spring for a lighter weight range, or
an air-pressure decrease, is needed. If the correct sag has Rebound-damping adjustment
been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style, the Models without adjustable damping can be tuned by
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a spring or air pres- changing oil weight only. The following models have no
sure for a heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never damping adjustment:
bottoms the fork due to a very non-aggressive riding style, ’02 Dirtjumper 2
a spring or air pressure for a lighter rider will provide a ’00 1 Z3.5 Coil
more comfortable ride. ’01 Z5 (Air & Coil)
The following table of coil springs shows the correct ’00 Z3 M 80
spring for different weight ranges. Note that the ranges ’00 Z4 Air
overlap. For extreme conditions and aggressive riding If the year and model cannot be determined, internal
styles, when a rider’s weight is in the overlap zone, use inspection is the only way to identify whether a fork has
the higher range that includes the rider’s weight. no adjustment or an internal adjustment.
The remaining forks in this section have either an
external rebound-damping adjustment on the bottom(s)
of the slider tube(s) or an internal adjustment in the stan-
chions. With an external adjuster, the user generally does
38 – 72
this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. When there external), damping adjustment (none or internal), damper
is no external adjustment, the stanchion cap and spring removal (out bottom or top of stanchions), and wheel-
must be removed to perform the adjustment. A 3mm hex attachment systems (normal or QR20).
key at least 9" long is needed to reach the adjustment. If there are adjustment knobs on the stanchion caps,
In either case, if the most counterclockwise adjustment then there are coil springs inside. If there are no knobs, but
(viewed from above) does not create enough damping for there are covers that can be removed from the cap, then
the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used. removing a cover will reveal a hex fitting (internal preload
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. adjustment) or an air valve. Variations in procedure that are
due to the spring differences are marked either coil only or air
only. Variations in procedure that are due to the coil-spring
preload difference are marked either external preload or
MARZOCCHI FORKS: internal preload. These preload distinctions are combined
’00–’02 NON-CARTRIDGE & with the coil only distinction, when they apply.
There is no way to determine from the outside
REMOVABLE STANCHIONS whether a fork has internal valve adjustments or no valve
adjustments. When the stanchion caps have been removed
and the oil has been drained, if a visual inspection of the
ABOUT THIS SECTION damper pistons reveals a 3mm hex fitting in the top of
This section covers a group of Marzocchi forks that a piston, then there is internal valving adjustment. Varia-
utilize a damping system that is not a cartridge and have tions in procedure that are due to the damping-adjustment
stanchions that are removable from the fork crown. Mod- difference are marked internal adjust only. Variations in
els with the same damping systems, but with non-remov- procedure that are due to crown differences are marked
able (integrated) stanchions, require different service either single crown only or double crown only.
techniques and are covered elsewhere in this chapter. The Z5 models are unique in that the dampers are
The distinguishing characteristic of the non-cartridge- removed out the tops of the stanchions. Variations in
damping system is that there are no damping adjustments on procedure that are due to the this difference are marked
top of the fork crown. The presence of this characteristic, Z5 only or all except Z5.
found in combination with stanchions that are removable
from the fork crown, make it certain that the fork being
considered is part of the group covered in this section.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
In addition to common tools, working on these forks
Identification by this means is better than relying on model requires some relatively unique tools.
names, since there are similarly named forks that do not If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools
belong in the same group. The specific model names that that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on
this section covers (as long as the fork does have removable these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R-
stanchions) are: 5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer
’00 Z1 Dropoff #R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver,
’00–’01 Z3 QR20 or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals.
’00–’02 Jr. T A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp
’00 Z5 (Air & Coil) of the type made for the purpose of carrying a bike in a
There are Z3 and Z5 models that do not have integrated pickup truck. The QR20 models require a Hurricane Fork
stanchions that are not covered by this section. Potential Up (#1011C) adapter to fit the fork clamp.
confusion also exists with the Z1 designation, which has Models with air springs have a Schrader air valve on the
model variations, with removable stanchions, that are not stanchion cap. A high-quality shock pump is needed.
part of this group. There are many Z1 models that have a A 26mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
cartridge-damper system, and these are covered in differ- aluminum fittings. This type of fitting requires modification
ent sections for Marzocchi forks with cartridge dampers of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets have a
and integrated or removable stanchions. Z1 models with bevel in the end that causes the flats to start a millimeter or
cartridge dampers have at least one damping adjuster (a more from the end of the socket. File the socket end so the
slotted rod) protruding from a stanchion cap. internal flats start immediately at the end of the socket.
Within the group covered in this section, there are varia- An extension is needed to use a socket on nuts located
tions in crown type (single crown or dual crown), spring up to 4" inside the bottoms of the slider tubes.
type (coil or air), coil-spring preload adjustment (internal or
38 – 73
For models with internal damping adjustment, a 9" 3. [ ] Single crown only: Disassemble headset,
long 3mm hex key is required. then remove fork from frame.
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings Dual crown only: Loosen all upper crown
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are bolts, then disassemble headset and remove
fork from frame.
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
4. [ ] Single crown, external preload only:
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
Remove circlips from stanchion caps, then
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can loosen crown bolts and remove fork assem-
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is bly from crown.
more convenient. Single crown, all except external preload:
Loosen crown bolts and remove fork assem-
OIL CHANGE ONLY bly from crown.

5. [ ] Clamp left stanchion securely in rubber-
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the padded bike-stand clamp.
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping 6. [ ] External preload only: Use 26mm socket to
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). remove left stanchion cap.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1. Internal preload only: Use T-handle 4mm hex
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 5–10. key to depress left stanchion cap 15mm,
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 63–64. then push internal circlip down at point
4. [ ] Repeat step 9 (both sides). opposite gap in clip. Withdraw clip, then
5. [ ] Repeat steps 63–64. carefully release pressure on T-handle to
6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 65–75. allow cap to come out.
Air only: Depress left stanchion cap 15mm,
then push internal circlip down at point oppo-
SPRING CHANGE ONLY site gap in clip. Withdraw clip, then use hand
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1. pump to pressurize cap and force it out.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–8 (both sides). 7. [ ] Coil only: Withdraw spacer (if any), washer,
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 65–75. additional spacer (if any), and spring(s) from
The original preload setting will probably need to be left side. NOTE: Depending on model, there
changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS may be 1–3 springs per side.
at the end of this section). 8. [ ] Clamp right stanchion in bike-stand clamp.
9. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump
slider and drain oil into empty waste recep-
FULL FORK SERVICE tacle. Stuff stanchion with lint-free shop
paper towel to prevent further draining.
Disassembly 10. [ ] Repeat steps 5–9 for other side.
1. [ ] Coil, external preload only: Counting turns, 11. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
turn both preload adjusters fully counter- (stock is 7.5wt).
clockwise and record number of turns here: 12. [ ] Remove stanchion from bike-stand clamp,
left side ____ right side ____ then secure fork column in clamp instead.
Coil, internal preload only: Use 4mm hex 13. [ ] Single crown only: Clamp stanchions back
key to remove covers from stanchion caps, into fork crown (gently snug bolts).
then use 4mm hex key to turn both preload 14. [ ] Internal adjust only: Use long, 3mm hex key
adjusters fully counterclockwise and record to rotate damping adjuster(s) fully counter-
number of turns here: clockwise, counting turns, and record here.
left side ____ right side ____ left side ____ right side ____
Air only: Remove valve caps on tops of stan- NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
chions. Use pump to measure existing pres- 15. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to remove
sures, then deflate valves. nuts inside bottoms of slider tubes. If nut
left side ____psi right side ____psi spins without unthreading, press on damper
2. [ ] Air only: If pressure loss is apparent, pres- through top of stanchion.
surize valve and check with soapy water at 16. [ ] Stuff bottoms of sliders with lint-free paper
valve and stanchion cap perimeter. If no air shop towels, then pull slider off.
is being lost, oil leaks at tops or bottoms of
sliders are source of pressure loss (deflate
valves again).
38 – 74
Circlip
Fork crown
Wiper seal
Triple-dip clip This configuration Stanchion cap

is external preload
Seal adjuster/threaded-
cap variation.
Washer Sleeve
Washer
Bushing
NOTE: Right and left

sides are identical.
Spring
Split ring
Plunger rod
Sliders
Top-out
spring
Stop ring
Plastic washer
Valve sleeve
Snap-ring Stanchion
Foot valve
(cap)
Bolt
38.14 A typical Marzocchi non-cartridge, removable-stanchion fork.
38 – 75
17. [ ] All except Z5: Remove snap-rings in bot- 36. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
toms of stanchions, then withdraw damper screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on
assemblies. top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal
Z5 only: Remove foot caps from bottoms of (both sides).
dampers, then remove damper assemblies NOTE: Skip to step 41 if not replacing bushings.
out tops of stanchions. 37. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals.
18. [ ] All except Z5: Remove O-rings from foot 38. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves
caps at bottoms of damper shafts. If O-ring(s) from sliders.
are not there, they may have remained at
bottom of slider(s). NOTE: Some models have Seal and bushing replacement
O-rings on bottom nuts, in which case there 39. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at
are no O-rings on foot caps. either side of tubes, not at front or back.
19. [ ] Internal adjust only: Use pick to remove 40. [ ] Place washer on top of each bushing.
circlip inside damper-piston head. 41. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face
20. [ ] Internal adjust only: Use 3mm hex key first into slider tube, then use seal installer
to turn adjustable valve clockwise until it to drive in seal (both sides).
threads out top end of piston. 42. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat
21. [ ] All except Z5: Try to pull foot cap off with with seal installer.
fingers. If it will not come off easily, put 43. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then
damper in vise upside down (do not clamp) seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
with foot cap at base end of shaft resting on rings if dust wipers are new).
top of vise jaws. Then tap on end of shaft Assembly
with plastic mallet to remove foot cap. 44. [ ] Install split ring into groove in damper-piston
22. [ ] All except Z5: Remove O-ring from end of head.
shaft (if any), then pull off aluminum sleeve, 45. [ ] Install short top-out spring onto damper shaft.
spring/valve-plate assembly, and stop plate. 46. [ ] All except Z5: Install stop plate onto damper
NOTE: Older models have a simple plastic shaft.
plate for a valve, rather than a coil-spring/ 47. [ ] All except Z5: Install valve plate or spring/
plastic-plate assembly. valve-plate assembly (flat-face last) onto
23. [ ] Remove top-out spring from damper shaft. damper shaft. NOTE: Older models have a
24. [ ] Remove split ring from piston head. simple plastic plate for a valve, rather than a
25. [ ] Repeat steps 18–24, as applicable, for other coil-spring/plastic-plate assembly.
damper. 48. [ ] All except Z5: Install aluminum sleeve
26. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers (cupped-face first) onto damper shaft.
on tops of sliders. 49. [ ] All except Z5: Install O-ring into groove on
Cleaning and inspection end of damper shaft (some pre-’02 models
have no O-ring).
27. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water
solution, then dry with compressed air and/ 50. [ ] All except Z5: Place foot cap (tapered-end
or lint-free paper shop towels. first) onto damper shaft, then seat until O-
28. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks. ring (if any) is covered.
29. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for 51. [ ] Repeat steps 44–50 for other damper.
bends. 52. [ ] Install O-rings (if any) onto foot caps.
30. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage. 53. [ ] Internal adjust only: Use 3mm hex key to
31. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear thread adjustable valve counterclockwise
marks, nicks, and scratches. into piston head, then install circlip in piston
32. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid- head to retain adjustable valve. Repeat for
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out. other side if both sides are adjustable.
33. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be 54. [ ] Internal adjust only: Restore damping
partially missing if bushings are worn out. setting(s) recorded in step 14.
NOTE: Skip to step 44 if bushings and seals are NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
not being replaced. 55. [ ] All except Z5: Insert damper assemblies into
both stanchions.
Seal and bushing removal Z5 only: Insert dampers through tops of
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider stanchions, then install foot caps on ends of
assembly in fork clamp. damper shafts.
34. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders. 56. [ ] All except Z5: Install snap-rings (flatter-face
35. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. out) into bottoms of stanchions.
38 – 76
57. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. 69. [ ] External preload only: Use alcohol to clean
58. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in slider tubes with stanchions and inside of bike-stand clamp,
non-lithium suspension-specific grease. then secure one stanchion in bike stand
59. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. clamp and tighten stanchion cap to 95in-lbs.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. Repeat for other side.
60. [ ] While pushing down on damper from above 70. [ ] Remove stanchion-clamp bolts from fork
with spring or similar device, use regular crown, treat threads with Loctite 242, then
15mm socket on extension to engage bot- reinstall bolts.
tom nut, then secure to 95in-lbs. Repeat for 71. [ ] All: Clamp fork column in bike-stand clamp.
other side. Single crown only: Insert stanchions fully
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. into fork crown and snug all bolts gently.
61. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil- 72. [ ] External preload only: Install circlips in
spring rings to dust wipers. grooves in flats of caps.
62. [ ] Remove leg assembly from fork crown, then 73. [ ] Single crown only: Torque all bolts to 70in-
install leg assembly upright in vise (use fork lbs. Side-by-side bolts should be torqued
clamp secured in vise). in alternation, repeatedly, until neither bolt
63. [ ] Single crown except Z5: Add 90cc new oil rotates at 70in-lbs.
to each stanchion (7.5wt is stock). 74. [ ] Coil only: Reset preload adjuster to setting
Z5 only: Add 100cc new oil to each stan- recorded in step 1 (internal preload models,
chion (7.5wt is stock). install caps over preload adjusters).
Double crown only: Add 160cc new oil to Air only: Pressurize both sides to pressure
each stanchion (7.5wt is stock). recorded in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING
64. [ ] With fork close to fully compressed, slowly OPTIONS, then install valve caps.
and carefully pump slider, repeatedly, up and 75. [ ] Single crown only: Install fork in frame and
down 1-2" until bubbles stop rising. assemble headset.
65. [ ] With stanchions fully down, measure oil Dual crown only: Remove upper-crown
depth from top of stanchions and adjust bolts, then install fork in frame and assemble
until depth is correct in both stanchions (see headset, including upper crown (no bolts).
following table). Adjust headset, then treat crown bolts with
Loctite 242, then secure upper-crown bolts
OIL DEPTH to 105in-lbs. Remove lower-crown bolts,
Spring Travel (mm) Depth treat with Loctite 242, then install and
Coil 150+ 90mm torque to 105in-lbs.
Coil 130 50mm
Coil 100–110 45mm TUNING OPTIONS
Coil 80 40mm
Air all 40mm
Sag adjustment
66. [ ] Coil only: Extend stanchions fully, then sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. On
install coil springs. NOTE: If fork has multi- coil-spring models, the preload adjusters on top of the legs
ple springs on each side, install longest first
adjust the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces sag. On air-spring
and shortest last.
models, the air pressure adjusts sag. The following table
67. [ ] Single crown coil only: Install preload washers
and spacers (if any) on top of each spring. shows the recommended sag for each travel range.
Dual crown coil only: Install long spacer, SAG SETTINGS
washer, and short spacer on top of springs. Travel Sag range
68. [ ] External preload only: Thread in stanchion
100mm 20–30mm
caps fully, but do not secure.
Internal preload only: Grease stanchion cap 110mm 22–33mm
O-ring and insert stanchion cap. Use T-handle 130mm 25–40mm
4mm hex key to depress left stanchion cap 150mm 30–45mm
10–15mm, then seat internal circlip into 170mm 35–50mm
groove inside stanchion. Repeat other side.
Air only: Grease stanchion cap O-ring and If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjustment
insert stanchion cap 10–15mm below top of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight range,
of stanchion, then seat internal circlip into or an air-pressure increase, is needed. If there is too little
groove inside stanchion. Repeat other side. sag with a full counterclockwise adjustment of the preload
38 – 77
knob, a spring for a lighter weight range, or an air-pressure
decrease, is needed. If the correct sag has been achieved,
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES
Rider weights Pressure range
but due to an aggressive riding style, the rider regularly
120–155lbs 20–30psi
bottoms the fork, use a spring or air pressure for a heavier
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to 155–180lbs 27–37psi
a very non-aggressive riding style, a spring or air pressure 180–220lbs 35–45psi
for a lighter rider will provide a more comfortable ride. >210lbs 42–55psi
The following table of coil springs shows the correct
spring for different weight ranges. Note that the ranges Rebound-damping adjustment
overlap. For extreme conditions and aggressive riding Models without adjustable damping can be tuned by
styles, when a rider’s weight is in the overlap zone, use changing oil weight only. The following models have no
the higher range that includes the rider’s weight. damping adjustment:
’00 Z5 QR20 (Air & Coil)
MARZOCCHI COIL SPRINGS ’00 Z5 Flylight Air
If the year and model cannot be determined, internal
100–110 None-1851 145–180lbs 5141156 inspection is the only way to identify whether a fork has
100–110 Yel-185 120–155lbs 5141112 no adjustment or an internal adjustment.
100–110 Wht-185 145–180lbs 5141113 The remaining forks in this section have an internal
100–110 Red-185 170–205lbs 5141114 adjustment in the stanchions. When there is no external
100–110 Grn-185 195–240lbs 5141190 adjustment, the stanchion cap and spring must be removed
130 None-2131 145–180lbs 5141155 to perform the adjustment. A 3mm hex key at least 9" long
130 Yel-213 120–155lbs 5141162 is needed to reach the adjustment. If the most counter-
130 Wht-213 145–180lbs 5141163 clockwise adjustment (viewed from above) does not create
130 Red-213 170–205lbs 5141164 enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight
130 Grn-213 195–240lbs 5141191
oil should be used. Make changes in oil weight by very
small increments.
150 (top) Cyan-1501 145–180lbs 5141110
150 (bottom) Red-185 145–180lbs 5141114
150 (top) Wht-150 120–155lbs 5141117
150 (bottom) Yel-185
150 (top) Red-150
120–155lbs 5141112
145–180lbs 5141109
MARZOCCHI FORKS:
150 (bottom) Wht-185 145–180lbs 5141113 ’00–’02 CARTRIDGE &
150 (top) Cyan-1501
150 (bottom) Grn-185
195–240lbs 5141110
195–240lbs 5141190 INTEGRATED STANCHIONS
170 (top) Yel/Blue-165 2
120–155lbs 850658
170 (top) Grn-165 145–180lbs 5141184 ABOUT THIS SECTION
170 (top) Wht/Blue-165 2
170–205lbs 850659 This section covers a group of Marzocchi forks that
170 (top) Red/Blue-1652 195–240lbs 850660 utilize a cartridge-damping system and have stanchions
170 (bottom) Red-1853 All weights 5141114 that are integrated with the fork crown (non-removable).
1
Models with the same damping system, but with remov-
coils at top end of spring. able stanchions, require different service techniques and
2
These upper springs are dual-rate and consist of are covered elsewhere in this chapter.
two springs. The distinguishing characteristic of the cartridge-damp-
3
This bottom spring is used for all rider weights, ing system is that there are damping adjustments on top of
and tuning is done by changing upper springs the fork crown. There may be one side with a slotted rod
or spring sets only. protruding from the top of the cap, or one side with a slotted
The following table of air pressures is a starting rod and the other with a lever. The combination of either of
point. Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame these characteristics, found in combination with stanchions
design can and will lead to choosing an air pressure out- that are integrated with the fork crown, make it certain that
side the recommended starting range. Consider 65psi a the fork being considered is part of the group covered in this
maximum pressure. section. Identification by this means is better than relying on
model names, since there are similarly named forks that do
38 – 78
not belong in the same group. The specific model names that Models with air springs have an air valve recessed in the
this section covers (as long as the fork does have integrated stanchion cap. A pump adapter #R-5321038 for these valves
stanchions and is not a 2003 model) are: is required, in addition to a high-quality shock pump.
’00–’02 Z2 Atom (all sub-models) A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
’01 Z1 MCR aluminum fittings. This type of fitting requires modification
’02 Z1 Freeride of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets have
’01–’02 X-Fly a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to start a mil-
Potential confusion exists with the Z1 and X-Fly limeter or more from the end of the socket. File the socket
designations, both of which have model variations that end so the flats start immediately at the end of the socket.
are not part of this group. There are some Z1 models A regular 15mm socket with an extension that can
that do not have a cartridge-damper system, and these reach 4" into the slider tubes is needed.
are covered in different sections for Marzocchi forks Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
with non-cartridge dampers and integrated or removable have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are
stanchions. Z1 models with non-cartridge dampers have needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
no damping adjuster (a slotted rod) protruding from a A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
stanchion cap. There is an ’00 X-Fly that has a completely volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can
different design with no damping adjustments on top of be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is
the stanchions and with air valves located on the slider more convenient.
tubes. This fork is covered in its own section.
Within the group covered in this section, there are varia-
tions in spring type (coil or air) and damping adjustment OIL CHANGE ONLY
(rebound only, or an ECC damper and a rebound damper). An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
ECC stands for Extension Control Cartridge and is charac- damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
terized by a lever on top of the stanchion cap that rotates (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
90 degrees to lock the fork in the compressed position.
If there are adjustment knobs on the stanchion caps, 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 48–50.
then there are coil springs inside. If there are no knobs, 4. [ ] Repeat step 11 (both sides).
the fork has air springs. Variations in procedure that are 5. [ ] Repeat steps 48–50.
due to the spring differences are marked either coil only 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 51–59.
or air only.
The damping system has either a single damper or dual
dampers. Variations in procedure that are due to the dif- SPRING CHANGE ONLY
ferences in number of dampers are marked either single
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–9 (both sides).
damper only or double damper only. The double-damper
models have one ECC damper, which requires different The original preload setting will probably need to be
procedures than the non-ECC side. Variations in procedure changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
that are due to this difference are marked ECC only. at the end of this section).
TOOL REQUIREMENTS FULL FORK SERVICE

In addition to common tools, working on these forks NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
requires some relatively unique tools. clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools position with back side facing you for follow-
that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R-
5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer
Disassembly
1. [ ] Coil only: Counting turns, turn both preload
#R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, adjusters fully counterclockwise and record
or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals. here: left side ____ right side ____
A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp Air only: Remove valve caps on tops of stan-
of the type made for the purpose of carrying a bike in a chions. Use pump to measure existing pres-
pickup truck. The QR20 models require a Hurricane Fork sures, then deflate valves.
Up (#1011C) adapter to fit the fork clamp. left side ____psi right side ____psi
38 – 79
2. [ ] Air only: If pressure loss is apparent, pres- 17. [ ] Double damper only: Remove snap-rings
surize valve and check with soapy water at in bottoms of stanchions, then withdraw
valve and stanchion cap perimeter. If no air damper assemblies.
is being lost, oil leaks at tops or bottoms of Single damper only: Remove snap-rings
sliders are source of pressure loss (deflate in bottoms of stanchions, then withdraw
valves again). damper assembly and plunger assembly.
3. [ ] Counting turns, turn damping-adjuster rod 18. [ ] Remove aluminum sleeve and top-out spring
fully counterclockwise and record here: from cartridges (or cartridge and plunger
right side ____ assembly).
4. [ ] ECC only: Turn ECC lever to counterclock- 19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
wise position, then use 2mm hex key to on tops of sliders.
remove ECC lever.
5. [ ] Coil only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen set Cleaning and inspection
screws in preload adjusters, then remove 20. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water
adjusters. solution, then dry with compressed air and/
6. [ ] Coil only: Remove e-clip(s) from stud(s) pro- or lint-free paper towels.
truding from stanchion caps. 21. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
7. [ ] All: Use 21mm socket to remove left stan- 22. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
chion cap. bends.
Air only, damper side(s): Use 10mm open- 23. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
end wrench to hold red locknut below stan- 24. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
chion cap stationary, while turning stanchion marks, nicks, and scratches.
cap counterclockwise to remove it from 25. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid-
damper rod. ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out.
8. [ ] Coil double damper only: Unthread preload 26. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
sleeve (clockwise) from damper rod. partially missing if bushings are worn out.
Coil single damper only: Push preload stud NOTE: Skip to step 37 if not replacing bushings
out of stanchion cap, then unthread preload and seals.
sleeve from stud. Seal and bushing removal
9. [ ] Coil only: Remove washer and spring from NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider
left side. assembly in fork clamp.
10. [ ] Coil only: Repeat previous three steps for 27. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
right side, push slider fully up, use e-clip 28. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider.
to retain stanchion cap back on rod, then 29. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
thread in stanchion cap. screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on top
11. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump of washer, then pry out seal (both sides).
slider and drain oil into empty waste recep- NOTE: Skip to step 34 if not replacing bushings.
tacle. Pump ECC/damper rod (if any) to drain 30. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals.
additional oil. 31. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves
12. [ ] Put fork in vertical position, then reinstall from sliders.
left stanchion cap.
13. [ ] Coil only: Remove other e-clip and stanchion Seal and bushing replacement
cap, repeat step 11, then remove remaining 32. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at
stanchion cap. either side of tubes, not at front or back.
Air only: Remove right stanchion cap, 33. [ ] Place washer on top of each bushing.
repeat step 11, then remove remaining 34. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face
stanchion cap. first into slider tube, then use seal installer
14. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt to drive in seal (both sides).
(stock is 7.5wt). 35. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. with seal installer.
15. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to remove 36. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then
nuts inside bottoms of sliders. It may be seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
necessary to apply pressure through top of rings if dust wipers are new).
stanchion to stop cartridge from spinning.
16. [ ] Stuff bottoms of sliders with shop towels,
Assembly
37. [ ] Install top-out springs onto cartridge bodies
then pull slider off.
(or cartridge body and plunger).
38 – 80
ECC knob AIR COIL

Preload knob
AIR COIL COIL AIR Valve cap C-clip
Preload
knob
Valve cap
Valve cap C-clip Stanchion
cap
Stanchion Air stanchion cap

cap Preload
sleeve
Locknut Preload Washer
sleeve
Top-out spring
Washer
Sleeve
Sleeve Preload
stud
Stanchion
Washer (partial)
Spring
(partial)
Sleeve
Aluminum Spring
sleeve (partial)
Snap ring
Wiper seal
Spring
ECC cartridge (partial) Clip
Oil-pressure
seal Rebound
damper
Washer
Plunger
LEFT SIDE: RIGHT SIDE:

May be ECC or Rebound
plain plunger. Bushing damper used
Either may be with air spring
with air spring or coil spring.
or coil spring.
Slider (partial)
Bottom nut
38.15 ’02 Marzocchi cartridge, integrated-stanchion fork. Note the variety of springs and dampers.
38 – 81
38. [ ] Install aluminum sleeve (notched-end first) Air only: Pull rod(s) up fully, then engage
onto cartridge bodies (or cartridge body stanchion cap to rod (thread on fully). Hold
and plunger). red locknut with 10mm open-end wrench
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. and secure cap to 55in-lbs.
39. [ ] Single damper only: Insert plunger assembly 53. [ ] Coil double damper only: Place plastic
into bottom of left stanchion. washer (flat face first) over top of rod, then
ECC only: Insert ECC cartridge (brass stud thread on preload sleeve until a few threads
on top) into bottom end of left stanchion. are exposed.
40. [ ] Insert remaining cartridge in bottom of right Coil single damper only: Thread preload
stanchion. stud into preload sleeve until a few threads
41. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot- are exposed.
toms of stanchions. 54. [ ] Coil only: Snap stanchion cap onto preload
42. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. sleeve, then install e-clip in slot in rod.
43. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non- 55. [ ] Coil only: Install preload adjuster onto rod,
lithium suspension-specific grease. then gently secure set screw.
44. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. 56. [ ] All except single-damper air: Repeat steps
45. [ ] Coil only: While using spring to push down 52–55 for other side.
on cartridge (or plunger), use 15mm socket 57. [ ] Double damper only: Push slider fully down,
on extension to engage nut to stud on bot- then thread in both stanchion caps and
tom of cartridge (or plunger). Then secure to secure to 95in-lbs.
95in-lbs (both sides). Coil single damper only: Push slider fully
Air only: While using adjusting rod to push down, place plastic washer (flat-face first)
down on cartridge (or use 1/2" dowel or on top of left spring, then thread in both
similar rod on plunger), use 15mm socket stanchion caps and secure to 95in-lbs.
on extension to engage nut to stud on bot- Single-damper air only: Push slider fully
tom of cartridge (or plunger). Then secure to down, then thread in both stanchion caps
95in-lbs (both sides). and secure to 95in-lbs.
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. 58. [ ] Coil only: Turn both preload adjusters
46. [ ] ECC only: Pull ECC rod fully out and use fully counterclockwise, then reset preload
ECC lever to check that ECC is adjusted fully adjuster to setting recorded in step 1.
counterclockwise. Air only: Pressurize both sides to pressure
47. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil- recorded in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING
spring rings to dust wipers. OPTIONS, then install valve caps.
48. [ ] Add 70cc new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt 59. [ ] ECC only: Attach ECC lever to ECC rod and
is stock). gently secure bolt.
49. [ ] With fork close to fully compressed, slowly
and carefully pump slider up and down 1–
2", repeatedly, until bubbles stop rising. TUNING OPTIONS
50. [ ] Pump rod(s) up and down until no bubbles
are seen, then leave rod(s) fully down.
Sag adjustment
51. [ ] With slider fully up, measure oil depth from Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
top of fork crown and adjust until depth is cor- sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. On
rect in both stanchions (see following table). coil-spring models, the preload adjusters on top of the legs
adjust the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces sag. On air-spring
OIL DEPTH models, the air pressure adjusts sag. The following table
Spring Travel Depth
shows the recommended sag for each travel range.
Coil 130mm 55mm
Coil 100–110mm 50mm
SAG SETTINGS
Travel Sag range
Coil 80mm 45mm
80mm 8–16mm
Air all 40mm
100mm 20–30mm
52. [ ] Coil double damper only: Pull left rod up
110mm 22–33mm
fully, then drop spring over rod and catch
rod before it drops. 130mm 25–40mm
Coil single damper only: Drop spring into left If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjust-
stanchion. ment of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight
range, or an air-pressure increase, is needed. If there is
38 – 82
too little sag with a full counterclockwise adjustment of Rebound-damping adjustment
the preload knob, a spring for a lighter weight range, or All the forks in this section have an external rebound-
an air-pressure decrease, is needed. If the correct sag has damping adjustment on the top of the right stanchion.
been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style, the With an external adjuster, the user generally does this
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a spring or air pres- adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the most clock-
sure for a heavier rider. Conversely, if the rider never wise adjustment does not create enough damping for the
bottoms the fork due to a very non-aggressive riding style, rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used. Make
a spring or air pressure for a lighter rider will provide a changes in oil weight by very small increments.
more comfortable ride.
The following table of coil springs shows the correct Extension-control adjustment
spring for different weight ranges. Note that the ranges Some of these forks have a lever on top of the left leg
overlap. For extreme conditions and aggressive riding that is an extension control (ECC). In the more clockwise
styles, when a rider’s weight is in the overlap zone, use position, the ECC lever causes the fork to stay compressed
the higher range that includes the rider’s weight. at the lowest point achieved while the lever is in this position.
Once the lever is turned counterclockwise, the fork returns
MARZOCCHI COIL SPRINGS to normal operation. The user typically operates this lever
to change fork performance during climbing conditions.
80 None-1651 145–180lbs 5141158
80 Yel/Blue-165 2
120–155lbs 850658
80 Green-165 145–180lbs 5141184
80 Wht/Blue-165 2
145–180lbs 850659 MARZOCCHI FORKS:
80
100–110
Red/Blue-1652
None-1851
180–240lbs 850660
145–180lbs 5141156 ’00–’02 CARTRIDGE &
100–110
100–110
Yellow-185
White-185
120–155lbs 5141112
145–180lbs 5141113
REMOVABLE STANCHIONS
100–110 Red-185 170–205lbs 5141114
100–110 Green-185 195–240lbs 5141190 ABOUT THIS SECTION
130 None-213 1
145–180lbs 5141155 This section covers a group of Marzocchi forks that
130 Yellow-213 120–155lbs 5141162 utilize a cartridge-damping system and have stanchions
130 White-213 145–180lbs 5141163
that are removable from the fork crown. Models with
the same damping system, but with integrated (non-
130 Red-213 170–205lbs 5141164
removable) stanchions, require different service tech-
130 Green-213 195–240lbs 5141191
niques and are covered elsewhere in this chapter.
1
Progressive (non-linear) spring has closer-spaced The distinguishing characteristic of the cartridge-
coils at top end of spring. damping system is that there are damping adjustments
2
These are dual-rate spring sets and consist of on top of the fork crown. There may be two sides with
two springs per side.
silver slotted rods protruding from the tops of the caps,
The following table of air pressures is a starting point.
or one side with a silver rod and one with a black rod. The
Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame design can and
combination of either of these characteristics, found in
will lead to choosing an air pressure outside the recommended
combination with stanchions that are removable from the
starting range. Consider 65psi a maximum pressure.
fork crown, make it certain that the fork being considered
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES is part of the group covered in this section. Identifica-
Rider weights Pressure range tion by this means is better than relying on model names,
120–155lbs 20–30psi since there are similarly named forks that do not belong
155–180lbs 27–37psi in the same group. The specific model names that this
180–220lbs 35–45psi section covers (as long as the fork does have removable
>210lbs 42–55psi stanchions) are:
’00 Z1 CR
’00 Z1 QR20
’00 Mr. T
’01–’02 Super T
38 – 83
TOOL REQUIREMENTS FULL FORK SERVICE

requires some relatively unique tools.
Disassembly
1. [ ] Counting turns, turn both preload adjusters
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools fully counterclockwise and record here:
that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on left side ____ right side ____
these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R- 2. [ ] Counting turns, turn damping-adjuster rods
5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer fully counterclockwise and record here:
#R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, left side ____ right side ____
or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals. 3. [ ] Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen set screws in
A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp preload adjusters, then remove adjusters.
of the type made for the purpose of carrying a bike in a 4. [ ] Remove e-clips from studs protruding from
stanchion caps.
pickup truck. The QR20 models require a Hurricane Fork
5. [ ] Single crown only: Disassemble headset,
Up (#1011C) adapter to fit the fork clamp. then remove fork from frame.
A 26mm socket is required that is used on low profile Dual crown only: Loosen all upper-crown
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modi- bolts, then disassemble headset and remove
fication of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. fork from frame.
Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that causes the 6. [ ] Single crown only: Loosen crown bolts.
internal flats to start a millimeter or more from the end 7. [ ] Single crown only: Remove circlips from
of the socket. File the socket end so the internal flats start stanchion caps, then pull leg assembly out
immediately at the end of the socket. of fork crown.
A regular 15mm socket with an extension that can 8. [ ] Clamp left leg securely in rubber-covered
bike-stand clamp.
reach 4" into the slider tubes is needed.
9. [ ] Use 26mm socket to remove left stanchion
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings cap.
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are 10. [ ] Unthread preload sleeve (clockwise) from
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. damper rod.
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil 11. [ ] Remove washer and spring(s) from stan-
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can chion. NOTE: Depending on model, each
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is side may have 1–3 springs.
more convenient. 12. [ ] Clamp other stanchion in bike-stand clamp.
13. [ ] Tip fork to upside down, then pump slider
and drain oil into empty waste receptacle.
OIL CHANGE ONLY Pump rod (if any) to drain additional oil.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the Stuff stanchion with lint-free shop paper
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping towel to prevent further draining.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 14. [ ] Return fork to vertical position, then repeat
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–15. steps 9–13 for other side.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 48–50. 15. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
3. [ ] Repeat step 13 (both sides). (stock is 7.5wt).
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 51–53. 16. [ ] Remove stanchion from bike-stand clamp,
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 54–68. then secure fork column in clamp instead.
17. [ ] Single crown only: Clamp stanchions back
into fork crown (gently snug).
SPRING CHANGE ONLY NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
18. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to remove
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 8–12 (both sides). nuts inside bottoms of sliders. It may be
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 54–68. necessary to use a spring to apply pres-
The original preload setting will probably need to be sure from top of stanchion to stop cartridge
changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS from spinning.
at the end of this section).
20. [ ] Remove snap-rings in bottoms of stan-
chions, then withdraw damper assemblies.
21. [ ] Remove aluminum sleeve and top-out spring
from cartridges.
38 – 84
Adjuster
Circlip
E-clip
Stanchion Circlip
cap
The configuration below

Preload is found on the left side
sleeve of single-damper models.
Plastic
washer
Wiper seal
Adjuster
Coil spring Triple-dip
clip E-clip
Seal Stanchion
cap
Washer
Stanchion Preload
sleeve
Bushing
Preload
stud
Plastic
washer
Stanchion
Coil spring
Damper Sliders
Boot
Top-out Plunger
spring Boot shaft
The configuration above

is found on both sides
of two-damper models.
Top-out
spring
Nut
38.16 A typical Marzocchi cartridge, non-integrated-stanchion fork.
38 – 85
22. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers 44. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot-
on tops of sliders. toms of stanchions.
Cleaning and inspection 46. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non-
23. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water lithium suspension-specific grease.
solution, then dry with compressed air and/ 47. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions.
or lint-free paper shop towels. 48. [ ] While using spring to push down on car-
24. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks. tridge, use 15mm socket on extension to
25. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for engage nut to stud on bottom of cartridge,
bends. then secure to 95in-lbs (both sides).
26. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage. NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
27. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear 49. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil-
marks, nicks, and scratches. spring rings to dust wipers.
28. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid- 50. [ ] Remove leg assembly from fork crown, then
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out. install leg assembly upright in vise (use fork
29. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be clamp secured in vise).
partially missing if bushings are worn out. 51. [ ] Add 70cc new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt
NOTE: Skip to step 40 if bushings and seals are is stock).
not being replaced. 52. [ ] With fork close to fully compressed, slowly
Seal and bushing removal and carefully pump stanchions up and
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider down an inch or two, repeatedly, until bub-
assembly in fork clamp. bles stop rising.
30. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders. 53. [ ] Pump rods up and down until no bubbles are
31. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. seen, then leave rods fully down.
32. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert 54. [ ] With stanchions fully down, measure oil
screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on depth from top of stanchions and adjust
top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal until depth is correct in both stanchions (see
(both sides). following table).
NOTE: Skip to step 37 if bushings are not being OIL DEPTH
replaced. Spring Travel (mm) Depth (mm)
33. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals.
Coil 150+ 90
34. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves
from sliders. Coil 130 50
Seal and bushing replacement 55. [ ] Pull left rod up fully, then drop spring(s) over
rod and catch rod before it drops. NOTE: If
35. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at
model has multiple springs, install longest
either side of tubes, not at front or back.
spring first and shortest spring last.
36. [ ] Place washer on top of each bushing.
56. [ ] Place plastic washer (flat-face first) over top
37. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face
of rod, then thread on preload sleeve until a
first into slider tube. Then use seal installer
few threads are exposed.
to drive in seal (both sides).
57. [ ] Snap stanchion cap onto preload sleeve,
38. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat
then install e-clip in slot in rod.
with seal installer.
58. [ ] Install preload adjuster onto rod, then gently
39. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then
secure set screw.
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
59. [ ] Repeat steps 55–58 for other side.
rings if dust wipers are new).
60. [ ] Pull stanchions fully up, then thread in stan-
Assembly chion caps.
40. [ ] Install top-out springs onto cartridge bodies. 61. [ ] Clean stanchions and inside of bike-stand
41. [ ] Install aluminum sleeve (notched-end first) clamp with alcohol.
onto cartridge bodies. 62. [ ] Secure left stanchion in bike-stand clamp,
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. then secure stanchion cap to 95in-lbs.
42. [ ] Insert cartridge with black adjusting rod (if Repeat for other side.
any) into bottom of left stanchion, or either 63. [ ] Remove stanchion-clamp bolts from fork
damper if they are identical. crown, treat threads with Loctite 242, then
43. [ ] Insert remaining cartridge in bottom of right reinstall bolts.
stanchion.
38 – 86
64. [ ] All: Clamp fork column in bike-stand clamp,
Single crown only: Insert stanchions fully
MARZOCCHI COIL SPRINGS
into fork crown and snug all bolts gently.
65. [ ] Single crown only: Install circlips in grooves 130 None-2131 145-180lbs 5141155
in flats of caps. 130 Yel-213 120-155lbs 5141162
66. [ ] Torque all bolts to 70in-lbs. Side-by-side bolts 130 Wht-213 145-180lbs 5141163
should be torqued in alternation, repeatedly, 130 Red-213 170-205lbs 5141164
until neither bolt rotates at 70in-lbs.
130 Grn-213 195-240lbs 5141191
67. [ ] Turn both preload adjusters fully counter-
clockwise, then reset preload adjuster to 150 (top) Cyan-150 1
145-180lbs 5141110
setting recorded in step 1. 150 (bottom) Red-185 145-180lbs 5141114
68. [ ] Single crown only: Install fork in frame and 150 (top) Wht-150 120-155lbs 5141117
assemble headset. 150 (bottom) Yel-185 120-155lbs 5141112
Dual crown only: Remove upper-crown bolts,
150 (top) Red-150 145-180lbs 5141109
then install fork in frame and assemble head-
set, including upper crown (no bolts). Adjust 150 (bottom) Wht-185 145-180lbs 5141113
headset, then treat crown bolts with Loctite 150 (top) Cyan-1501 195-240lbs 5141110
242 and secure all crown bolts to 105in-lbs. 150 (bottom) Grn-185 195-240lbs 5141190
170 (top) Yel/Blue-1652 120-155lbs 850658
TUNING OPTIONS 170 (top)

170 (top)
Grn-165
Wht/Blue-1652
145-180lbs
170-205lbs
5141184
850659
Sag adjustment 170 (top) Red/Blue-165 2
195-240lbs 850660
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the 170 (bottom) Red-1853 All weights 5141114
rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding posi- 1
tion. On coil-spring models, the preload adjusters on top
coils at top end of spring.
of the legs adjust the sag. Clockwise rotation reduces 2
These upper springs are dual-rate and consist of
sag. The following table shows the recommended sag two springs.
for each travel range. 3
This bottom spring is used for all rider weights
SAG SETTINGS and tuning is done by changing upper springs
Travel Sag range or spring sets only.
130mm 25-40mm Rebound-damping adjustment
150mm 30-45mm All the forks in this section have an external
170mm 35-50mm rebound-damping adjustment on the top of the right
If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjust- stanchion. If each side has a slotted rod and both are
ment of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight silver, both are rebound-damper adjustments. With an
range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full coun- external adjuster, the user generally does this adjustment
terclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a spring for to suit his or her riding style. If the most clockwise
a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag has adjustment does not create enough damping for the
been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style, the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used.
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a spring for a heavier Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due If changing oil weight to change damping, only change
to a very non-aggressive riding style, a spring for a lighter the side(s) with a silver adjusting rod.
rider will provide a more comfortable ride. Compression-damping adjustment
The following table of coil springs shows the correct If one of the two slotted rods is silver and one is
spring for different weight ranges. Note that the ranges black, the black one is a compression-damping adjust-
overlap. For extreme conditions and aggressive riding ment. With an external adjuster, the user generally does
styles, when a rider’s weight is in the overlap zone, use this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the most
the higher range that includes the rider’s weight. clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping for
the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used.
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. If
changing oil weight to change damping, only change the
side with a black adjusting rod.
38 – 87
MARZOCCHI FORKS: OIL CHANGE ONLY

’02 MXC+ECC AIR damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
ABOUT THIS SECTION 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 58–60.
This section specifically covers the Marzocchi 3. [ ] Repeat step 5 (both sides).
MXC+ECC Air fork. The MXC Coil and MXC Air 4. [ ] Repeat steps 58–60.
forks are covered in a separate section. The characteristic 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 61–65.
of this fork that distinguishes it from other MXC models
is the ECC lever on top of the left stanchion cap. ECC
stands for Extension Control Cartridge. The lever on top
FULL FORK SERVICE
of the stanchion cap rotates clockwise 90 degrees to lock clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
the fork in the compressed position. The characteristic position with back side facing you for follow-
that distinguishes this fork from all other ECC-equipped ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
models is the lack of an external damping adjustment on
the top of the non-ECC side. Disassembly
1. [ ] Remove valve caps on tops of stanchions,
use pump to measure existing pressures,
TOOL REQUIREMENTS then deflate valves.
left side ____psi right side ____psi
2. [ ] Turn ECC lever to counterclockwise position,
then use 2mm hex key to remove ECC lever.
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools 3. [ ] Use 21mm socket to unthread left stanchion
that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on cap, then push sliders up.
these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R- 4. [ ] Use 10mm open-end wrench to hold red
5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer locknut below stanchion cap stationary,
#R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, then turn stanchion cap counterclockwise to
or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals. remove it from ECC rod.
A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp 5. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump
of the type made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck. slider and drain oil into empty waste recep-
A pump adapter #R-5321038 for the air valves is tacle. Pump ECC rod to drain additional oil.
Stuff stanchion with lint-free paper shop
required, in addition to a high-quality shock pump.
towel to prevent further draining.
A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile 6. [ ] With fork in vertical position, remove other
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modifica- stanchion cap and repeat steps 4–5.
tion of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
typically have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats (stock is 7.5wt).
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately 8. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to remove
at the end of the socket. nuts inside bottoms of sliders.
A regular 15mm socket with an extension that can 9. [ ] Stuff bottoms of slider tubes with shop tow-
reach 4" into the slider tubes is needed. els, then pull slider off.
10. [ ] Remove snap-rings in bottoms of stan-
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are 11. [ ] Remove O-ring from foot cap at bottom of
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. non-ECC damper shaft. If O-ring is not there,
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil it may have remained at bottom of slider.
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can 12. [ ] Put right damper in vise upside down (do not
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is clamp), with foot cap at base end of shaft
more convenient. resting on top of vise jaws, then tap on end of
shaft with plastic mallet to remove foot cap.
13. [ ] Remove O-ring from end of shaft, then pull
off aluminum sleeve, valve plate, stop plate,
and top-out spring from damper shaft.
14. [ ] Remove split ring from piston head.
38 – 88
Valve cap
ECC knob
Valve cap
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Stanchion cap Stanchion
cap
Locknut
C-clip
Aluminum sleeve
Valve
Snap-ring
Split ring
ECC cartridge
Damper shaft
Wiper seal
Clip
Oil-pressure
seal
Washer
Top-out spring
Stop plate
Valve spring
Bushing Valve plate
O-ring
Top-out spring
Foot cap
O-ring
Slider (partial) Slider (partial) Aluminum sleeve
Snap ring
Bottom nut
38.17 Marzocchi MXC+ECC fork.
38 – 89
15. [ ] Remove aluminum sleeve and top-out spring
from ECC cartridge.
Assembly
36. [ ] Install split ring into groove in non-ECC
16. [ ] Counting turns, use 3mm hex key to turn damper-piston head.
adjustable valve in top of non-ECC damper 37. [ ] Install long top-out spring onto same damper
fully counterclockwise: _____turns. shaft.
17. [ ] Use pick to remove clip inside top of non- 38. [ ] Install stop plate onto same damper shaft.
ECC damper, then unthread adjustable valve 39. [ ] Install valve plate (protrusion-face first) onto
fully clockwise. same damper shaft.
18. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers 40. [ ] Install aluminum sleeve (cupped-face first)
on tops of sliders. onto same damper shaft.
Cleaning and inspection 41. [ ] Install O-ring into groove on end of same
19. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water damper shaft.
solution, then dry with compressed air and/ 42. [ ] Place foot cap (tapered-end first) onto
or lint-free paper shop towels. same damper shaft, then seat until O-ring
20. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks. is covered.
21. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for 43. [ ] Install short top-out spring onto ECC
bends. cartridge, then install aluminum sleeve
22. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage. (notched-end first) below spring.
23. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear 44. [ ] Insert threaded end of adjustable valve into
marks, nicks, and scratches. top of non-ECC damper piston, then use
24. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid- 3mm hex key to turn valve counterclockwise
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out. until valve is bottomed inside piston head.
25. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be 45. [ ] Install circlip in piston head to retain adjust-
partially missing if bushings are worn out. able valve.
NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings and seals are NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
not being replaced. 46. [ ] Insert ECC cartridge into bottom end of left
stanchion.
Seal and bushing removal 47. [ ] Insert other damper into bottom of right
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider stanchion.
assembly in fork clamp. 48. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot-
26. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders. toms of stanchions.
27. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. 49. [ ] Install O-ring on non-ECC damper foot cap.
28. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert 50. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion.
screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on 51. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non-
top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal lithium suspension-specific grease.
(both sides). 52. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions.
NOTE: Skip to step 33 if bushings are not being 53. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to engage
replaced. nut (one with O-ring) to stud on bottom of
29. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals. ECC cartridge, then secure to 95in-lbs.
30. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves 54. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to engage
from sliders. remaining nut and secure to 95in-lbs.
Seal and bushing replacement 55. [ ] Pull ECC rod fully out and use ECC lever to
31. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at
check that ECC is adjusted fully counter-
either side of tubes, not at front or back.
clockwise.
56. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil-
spring rings to dust wipers.
57. [ ] Restore damper setting recorded in step 16.
58. [ ] Add 70cc new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt
is stock).
and carefully pump slider repeatedly up and
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
down 1–2" until bubbles stop rising.
60. [ ] Pump ECC rod up and down until no bubbles
are seen, then leave rod fully down.
38 – 90
61. [ ] With slider fully up, measure oil depth from to reach the adjustment. If the most counterclockwise
top of fork crown and adjust until depth is adjustment (viewed from above) does not create enough
40mm from top of crown. damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil
62. [ ] Pull ECC rod up fully, then engage ECC stan- should be used. Make changes in oil weight by very small
chion cap to rod (thread on fully). Hold red
increments. Change the oil weight only in the right side.
locknut with 10mm open-end wrench and
secure cap to 55in-lbs. Extension-control adjustment
63. [ ] Thread in stanchion caps and secure to This fork has a lever on top of the left leg that is an
95in-lbs. extension control (ECC). In the more clockwise position,
64. [ ] Pressurize both sides to pressure recorded the ECC lever causes the fork to stay compressed at the
in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING OPTIONS,
lowest point achieved while the lever is in this position.
then install valve caps.
65. [ ] Attach ECC lever to ECC rod and gently
Once the lever is turned counterclockwise, the fork returns
secure bolt. to normal operation. The user typically operates this lever
to change fork performance during climbing conditions.
TUNING OPTIONS
Sag adjustment MARZOCCHI FORKS:
The air pressure adjusts sag. The following table shows
’02 MARATHON &
the recommended sag for each travel range. ’03 MARATHON SL 29"
SAG SETTINGS
Travel
80mm
Sag range
8–16mm
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section specifically covers the 2002 Marzocchi
100mm 20–30mm Marathon fork and 2003 Marathon SL 29" air-spring
If there is too much sag at the high end of the recom- forks. The characteristic that distinguishes Marathon air-
mended air-pressure range, a setting for a heavier weight spring models from other Marzocchi air-spring models
range is needed. If there is too little sag at the low end is the presence of two air valves under the left-side valve
of the recommended range, a setting for a lighter weight cap. There are ’03 Marathon air-spring models not cov-
range is needed. If the correct sag has been achieved, ered by this section, as well. These are easily distinguished
but due to an aggressive riding style, the rider regularly from the ’03 Marathon SL 29" by the location of the
bottoms the fork, use a setting for a heavier rider. Con- bottom bolts. The two models covered in this section
versely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to a very have bottom bolts hidden inside wells in the bottoms
non-aggressive riding style, a setting for a lighter rider will of the sliders. The ’03 Marathon models not covered in
provide a more comfortable ride. this section have bottom bolts exposed at the bottoms
The following table of air pressures is a starting point. of the sliders, adjacent to the dropouts.
Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame design can and
will lead to choosing an air pressure outside the recommended
starting range. Consider 65psi a maximum pressure.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES requires some relatively unique tools.
Rider weights Pressure range If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools
120–155lbs 20–30psi that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on
155–180lbs 27–37psi these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R-
180–220lbs 35–45psi 5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer
>210lbs 42–55psi #R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver,
or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals.
Rebound-damping adjustment A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp
This fork has a rebound adjustment inside the right of the type made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck.
stanchion. The stanchion cap must be removed to perform A pump adapter #R-5321038 for the air valves is
the adjustment. A 3mm hex key at least 9" long is needed required, in addition to a high-quality shock pump.
38 – 91
A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile 6. [ ] Pull stanchion cap up, then clamp shaft in
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modifica- shaft clamp and unthread stanchion cap
tion of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets from shaft.
typically have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats 7. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump
slider and drain oil into empty waste recep-
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket.
tacle. Stuff stanchion with lint-free paper
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately
shop towel to prevent further draining.
at the end of the socket. 8. [ ] With fork in vertical position, remove circlip
A shaft clamp is required (Marzocchi #R-5106). from stud in center of right stanchion cap.
Any pair of radius blocks to fit an 8mm shaft can be 9. [ ] Unthread stanchion cap, then pull cap off rod.
substituted. 10. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump
A regular 15mm socket with an extension that can slider and drain oil into empty waste recep-
reach 4" into the slider tubes is needed. tacle. Stuff stanchion with lint-free paper
To service the seals in the negative-air cartridge, a shop towel to prevent further draining.
bullet tool #R-5126CD is needed to protect the seals 11. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
(stock is 7.5wt).
during reassembly.
12. [ ] Use 15mm socket or 6mm hex-bit socket on
volume is needed. extension to remove nuts inside bottoms of
sliders. NOTE: If cartridges spin with nuts,
OIL CHANGE ONLY contact Marzocchi for technical assistance.
13. [ ] Push cartridges out tops of sliders.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 14. [ ] Stuff bottoms of sliders with shop towels,
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping then pull slider off.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). NOTE: The air cylinder can only be checked for
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–11. leaks once removed. Reinstall stanchion cap,
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 52–53. pressurize, then submerge to check for leaks.
3. [ ] Repeat steps 7 and 10. 15. [ ] Grasp bottom end of air cylinder firmly in
4. [ ] Repeat steps 52–53. soft jaws, then use 19mm deep socket to
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 54–60. unthread air-cylinder cap (do not remove).
16. [ ] Pull on rod to withdraw air piston and cap,
FULL FORK SERVICE but do not separate them from each other.
17. [ ] Remove split ring and O-rings from air piston.
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and 18. [ ] Only if leaks were detected at point shaft
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical enters air cartridge, pull air-cylinder cap off
position with back side facing you for follow- shaft.
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. 19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
Disassembly on tops of sliders.
1. [ ] Unthread left-side valve cap and use seal
pick to remove rubber plug in right-side
damping adjuster. solution, then dry with compressed air and/
2. [ ] Rotate damping knob on right-side stanchion or lint-free paper shop towels.
cap to reveal air valve. Use pump to mea- 21. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
sure existing pressures (skip center valve on 22. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column
left), then deflate valves: for bends.
left _____psi right _____psi 23. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
3. [ ] Rotate damping knob fully counterclockwise, 24. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
then use 2mm hex key to carefully remove marks, nicks, and scratches.
knob, detent stud, and detent spring. 25. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops
4. [ ] If pressure loss is apparent, pressurize posi- of sliders indicates oil-pressure seals are
tive-air valves and check with soapy water worn out.
at valve. If no air is being lost, oil leaks at 26. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
tops or bottoms of sliders are source of partially missing if bushings are worn out.
pressure loss (deflate valves again). 27. [ ] Inspect air-piston shaft for wear. If worn, new
5. [ ] Use 21mm socket to unthread left stanchion damper shaft and air-cylinder cap are needed.
cap (do not remove).
38 – 92
Valve cap
ECC knob
Detent stud
Stanchion cap and spring
C-clip
Stanchion
cap
Negative-air-
cylinder head
Negative-air
piston shaft
and piston
Wiper seal
Clip
Oil-pressure
seal
ECC cartridge
Negative-air Washer
cylinder
Bushing
O-ring
O-ring
Split ring
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Bottom nut
38.18 ’02 Marzocchi Marathon fork (also typical of ’03 Marathon SL 29").
38 – 93
28. [ ] Inspect diagonally split oil ring (from air pis- 50. [ ] Install air cartridge into top of left stanchion
ton) for deformations. and ECC cartridge into top of right stanchion.
NOTE: Skip to step 39 if bushings and seals are 51. [ ] Use 15mm socket or 6mm hex-bit socket on
not being replaced. extension to thread on each bottom nut and
secure each to 95in-lbs.
Seal and bushing removal 52. [ ] Pour 50cc of 7.5wt oil into left stanchion,
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider then slowly pump the stanchion up and
assembly in fork clamp. down 1–2" until air is no longer coming up
29. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders. through oil (top of air cylinder will appear
30. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. above oil).
31. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert 53. [ ] Pour 50cc of oil (7.5wt is stock) into right
screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on stanchion and allow bubbles to quit rising
top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal in oil. Then pour 100cc more oil into right
(both sides). stanchion.
NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings are not being 54. [ ] Clamp air-piston shaft in shaft clamp, then
replaced. thread in stanchion cap and secure to 55in-lbs.
32. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals. 55. [ ] Pull ECC rod fully up, check that O-ring is
33. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves in second groove, then seat remaining stan-
from sliders. chion cap onto rod until groove for c-clip is
Seal and bushing replacement exposed. Then install c-clip.
34. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots are at 56. [ ] Push slider down, then thread in both stan-
either side of tubes, not at front or back. chion caps and secure to 95in-lbs.
35. [ ] Place washer on top of each bushing. 57. [ ] Inflate valves at perimeters of stanchion
36. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face caps to pressures measured in step 2 or to
first into slider tube, then use seal installer guidelines in TUNING OPTIONS.
to drive in seal (both sides). 58. [ ] Inflate valve in center of left stanchion cap
37. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat to triple amount of pressure set in step 57
with seal installer. (maximum 170psi).
38. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then 59. [ ] Install spring and detent stud (round end up)
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring into hole in right stanchion cap, then align
rings if dust wipers are new). flatted hole in bottom of rebound knob with
flatted stud. Secure knob to stud.
Assembly 60. [ ] Press rubber plug into right stanchion cap,
39. [ ] Lubricate air-piston O-rings, then install O- then thread valve cap onto left stanchion cap.
rings in air piston.
40. [ ] Check if diagonally split oil ring has a closed
split (contact or overlap is good). If not, coil TUNING OPTIONS
ring tighter so contact or overlap is achieved
when ring is relaxed. Sag adjustment
41. [ ] Carefully install split ring over top of piston Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
head into groove. Squeeze and release diag- sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
onally split ring to check whether gap width The air pressure adjusts sag. The following table shows
changes. If gap opens and closes, remove the recommended sag for each travel range.
ring, recompress, and install again.
42. [ ] If air-piston cap was removed, place bullet
SAG SETTINGS
tool over shaft, then install cap. Travel Sag range
43. [ ] Insert air piston into air cylinder. 80mm 8–16mm
44. [ ] Treat air cylinder cap with Loctite 242, then 100mm 20–30mm
thread into cylinder.
45. [ ] Grasp bottom end of air cartridge firmly in
If there is too much sag at the high end of the recom-
soft jaws, then secure cap. mended air-pressure range, a setting for a heavier weight
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. range is needed. If there is too little sag at the low end
46. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. of the recommended range, a setting for a lighter weight
47. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non- range is needed. If the correct sag has been achieved,
lithium suspension-specific grease. but due to an aggressive riding style, the rider regularly
48. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. bottoms the fork, use a setting for a heavier rider. Con-
49. [ ] Pull both rods fully out of cartridges. versely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to a very
38 – 94
non-aggressive riding style, a setting for a lighter rider will are that there are no valves or adjusters in the stanchion
provide a more comfortable ride. caps, and there are air valves on the slider tubes near the
The following table of air pressures is a starting point brake-pivot studs. Identification by this means is better
for the positive springs (perimeter of each stanchion cap). than relying on model names, since there are similarly
Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame design named forks that do not belong in the same group. The
can and will lead to choosing an air pressure outside the specific model names that this section covers are:
recommended starting range. Consider 60psi a maximum ’00 Z1 X-Fly QR20
pressure. The negative-spring air pressure (center of left ’00 Z1 X-Fly
cap) should be three times the positive-spring pressure ’00 Z2 X-Fly
(maximum 170psi). Potential confusion exists with ’01–’02 X-Fly air-
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES spring models. If unsure of the model year, rely on the
previously listed distinguishing characteristics.
120–155lbs 20–30psi
155–180lbs 27–37psi TOOL REQUIREMENTS
180–220lbs 35–45psi In addition to common tools, working on these forks
>210lbs 42–55psi requires some relatively unique tools.
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools
Rebound-damping adjustment that work on virtually all other Marzocchi forks work on
This fork has a multi-position rebound-adjustment these models. For seal removal, a slider protector #R-
knob on the right stanchion cap. The most counterclock- 5089-AB is required. For seal installation, a seal installer
wise of the positions is the minimum rebound-damping #R-5090 is required. A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver,
setting. Turning the knob clockwise increases the rebound or similar leverage tool, is needed for removing the seals.
damping. The most clockwise position turns on the ECC A useful tool for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp
function. If the most clockwise adjustment before the of the type made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck.
ECC function does not create enough damping for the The QR20 models require a Hurricane Fork Up (#1011C)
rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used. Make adapter to fit on the fork clamp.
changes in oil weight by very small increments. Change The Z2 X-Fly QR20 has air valves at the front of
the oil weight only in the right side. the slider tubes. A pump adapter #R-5321038 for these
valves is required, in addition to a high-quality shock pump
Extension-control adjustment (pump needed for all models).
This fork has either a three-position or five-position
A Marzocchi bullet tool #R-5082CD is necessary for
knob on top of the right leg that is an extension control
overhaul of all the models covered in this section.
(ECC) and a rebound-damping adjustment. In the most
A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
clockwise of positions, the ECC lever causes the fork to
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modifica-
stay compressed at the lowest point achieved while the
tion of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets
lever is in this position. Once the lever is turned coun-
typically have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
terclockwise, the fork returns to normal operation. The
user typically turns on the ECC function to change fork
performance during climbing conditions.
at the end of the socket.
A regular 10mm socket with an extension that can
reach 4" into the slider tubes is needed.
MARZOCCHI FORKS: Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are
’00 Z1 X-FLY & Z2 X-FLY needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can
ABOUT THIS SECTION be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is
This section covers a group of air-spring Marzocchi more convenient. To inject oil into holes that are 4" into
forks that are pressurized in the slider tubes, which is the bottoms of the sliders, an oral syringe with a hose
unlike all other air-spring models (pressurized in the stan- fitted to the tip is needed.
chions). The distinguishing characteristics of these models
38 – 95
OIL CHANGE ONLY 13. [ ] Place shaft bullet on end of damper shaft,
then pull spring and seal-pack assembly off
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the as a unit. Repeat for other side.
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping 14. [ ] Remove split rings from piston heads.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 15. [ ] Only if air pressure was being lost into stan-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 3–5. chions (hiss occurred when removing stan-
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 53. chion caps), remove seals from seal packs.
3. [ ] Repeat step 4. 16. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
4. [ ] Repeat step 53. on tops of sliders.
FULL FORK SERVICE solution, then dry with compressed air and/
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and or lint-free paper shop towels.
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical 18. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
position with back side facing you for follow- 19. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. bends.
20. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
Disassembly 21. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
1. [ ] Remove valve caps from valves (located marks, nicks, and scratches.
near brake-pivot studs, front or back), use 22. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid-
pump to measure existing pressures, then ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out.
deflate valves: left _____psi right _____psi 23. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
2. [ ] If pressure loss is apparent, pressurize valve partially missing if bushings are worn out.
and check with soapy water at valve. If no air 24. [ ] Inspect damper shafts for wear. If worn, new
is being lost at valves, check for leaks at tops damper shafts and seal packs are needed.
and bottoms of sliders (deflate valves again). 25. [ ] Inspect diagonally split oil rings (from
3. [ ] Use 21mm socket to remove left stanchion damper pistons) for deformations.
cap. If pressure loss has been apparent, NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings and seals are
inflate valve on this side and look for bub- not being replaced.
bles rising in oil (in stanchion). If bubbles are
seen, seals in seal pack on damper are bad. Seal and bushing removal
Deflate valve again. NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider
4. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump assembly in fork clamp.
slider and drain oil into empty waste recep- 26. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
tacle. Stuff stanchion with lint-free shop 27. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider.
paper towel to prevent further draining. 28. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
5. [ ] Return fork to vertical position, then repeat screwdriver under oil-pressure seal and on
steps 3–4 for other side. top of washer, then pry out oil-pressure seal
6. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt (both sides).
(stock is 7.5wt). NOTE: Skip to step 33 if bushings are not being
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. replaced.
7. [ ] Use extra-long 2.5mm hex key to turn 29. [ ] Remove washers that were below seals.
adjusters (access through bottom of sliders) 30. [ ] Use seal pick to remove bushing sleeves
fully counterclockwise, counting turns (do from sliders.
not force): left side _____ right side _____
8. [ ] Use 10mm socket on extension to remove
Seal and bushing replacement
31. [ ] Insert bushings into sliders so slots expose
nuts inside bottoms of sliders.
air holes on inward sides of sliders.
33. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open face
10. [ ] Remove caps from ends of damper shafts
and remove O-rings from outsides of caps.
NOTE: If either or both O-rings are missing,
inspect inside sliders.
11. [ ] Remove snap-rings in bottoms of stanchions.
12. [ ] Being prepared for more oil drainage, with-
draw damper assemblies from stanchions.
38 – 96
O-ring
Stanchion cap
Configuration below is
identical on both sides
Wiper seal
Seal ring Triple-dip clip

Seal ring
Stanchions Seal
Washer
Bushing
Damper rod
Air
valve
O-ring
Adjuster bolt
Top-out spring
Washer
*Seal pack is:

Parker seal (flat-side down)
Seal pack*
Body (O-ring end down)
Parker seal (flat-side up)
Washer Sliders
Snap-ring
Cap
O-ring
Nut
38.19 ’01 Marzocchi Z1 X-Fly fork.
38 – 97
35. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then 53. [ ] Fill each stanchion with the correct volume
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring and weight of oil.
rings if dust wipers are new). Z2 (80mm travel) – 60cc (7.5wt is stock)
Z1 (100mm travel) – 75cc (7.5wt is stock)
Assembly 54. [ ] Thread in stanchion caps and secure to
36. [ ] Install thicker split rings into topmost 95in-lbs.
grooves in damper-piston heads. If correct, 55. [ ] Pressurize both sides to pressure recorded
there should be two grooves in piston head in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING OPTIONS,
below each ring. then install valve caps.
37. [ ] Check if diagonally split oil rings have a
closed split (contact or overlap is good). If
not, coil ring(s) tighter so contact or overlap
of ends is achieved when ring is relaxed.
TUNING OPTIONS
38. [ ] Carefully install split rings over tops of piston Sag adjustment
heads into groove just below other split ring. Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
39. [ ] Squeeze and release diagonally split rings to sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
check whether gap width changes. If gap The air pressure adjusts sag. The following table shows
opens and closes, remove ring, recompress, the recommended sag for each travel range.
and install again.
40. [ ] If seals in seal packs were removed, install SAG SETTINGS
new seals (cupped-face out) into seal pack(s). Travel Sag range
41. [ ] With damper upside down, install spring 80mm 8–16mm
over shaft, then shaft bullet on shaft. Place 100mm 20–30mm
spring, washer, seal pack (O-ring-end last),
and second washer on shaft bullet, then use If there is too much sag at the high end of the recom-
top washer to push assembly onto shaft. mended air-pressure range, a setting for a heavier weight
Repeat for other damper. range is needed. If there is too little sag at the low end
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. of the recommended range, a setting for a lighter weight
42. [ ] Carefully insert damper assemblies into bot- range is needed. If the correct sag has been achieved,
toms of stanchions until grooves for snap- but due to an aggressive riding style, the rider regularly
rings are exposed.
bottoms the fork, use a setting for a heavier rider. Con-
43. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot-
versely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due to a very
toms of stanchions.
44. [ ] Push caps onto damper shafts until O-rings non-aggressive riding style, a setting for a lighter rider will
are covered, then install remaining O-rings provide a more comfortable ride.
onto caps. The following table of air pressures is a starting
45. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. point. Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame
46. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non- design can and will lead to choosing an air pressure out-
lithium suspension-specific grease. side the recommended starting range. Consider 65psi a
47. [ ] Install slider halfway onto stanchions. maximum pressure.
Inspect inside of bottoms of sliders—shaft
caps should not be filling holes in bottoms MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES
of sliders. Rider weights Pressure range
48. [ ] Use syringe with hose to inject 7cc of 120–155lbs 20–30psi
7.5wt hydraulic oil into each hole in bot- 155–180lbs 27–37psi
toms of sliders.
180–220lbs 35–45psi
49. [ ] Push sliders fully on.
>210lbs 42–55psi
50. [ ] Use 10mm socket on extension to thread
on each bottom nut and secure each to
95in-lbs. Rebound-damping adjustment
51. [ ] Restore damping adjustments recorded in These forks have a rebound adjustment inside the
step 7 with 2.5mm hex key. bottoms of each slider tube. A 2.5mm hex key at least
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. 4" long is needed to reach the adjustment. If the most
52. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil- clockwise adjustment (viewed from below) does not create
spring rings to dust wipers. enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-weight
oil should be used. Make changes in oil weight by very
small increments.
38 – 98
MARZOCCHI FORKS: be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is

more convenient.
’01–’03 SHIVER
OIL CHANGE ONLY
ABOUT THIS SECTION An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
This section covers a group of Marzocchi forks that
utilize a cartridge-damping system and have inverted 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–12.
legs (outer legs attached to crown, inner legs attached 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 52–54.
to wheel). The model names for the forks covered in 3. [ ] Repeat step 10 (both sides).
this section are: 4. [ ] Repeat steps 52–54.
’01 Shiver DH Race (dual crown) 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 55–67.
’02–’03 Shiver DC (dual crown)
’02–’03 Shiver SC (single crown)
Within the group covered in this section, there are SPRING CHANGE ONLY
variations in crown type (single or dual). Variations in
2. [ ] Loosen upper-crown bolts (dual crown only).
procedure that are due to the differences in crown type 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 7–9 (both sides).
are marked either single crown only or dual crown only. 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 55–62.
Some of these differences are specific to the crown type, 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 66.
but there are differences between the single crown and 6. [ ] Secure upper crown bolts to 95in-lbs.
dual crown models that have no direct relationship to The original preload setting will probably need to be
the crown type. Because the difference in crown types is changed to achieve the correct sag (see TUNING OPTIONS
immediately obvious, and all the other unrelated differ- at the end of this section).
ences are consistent to each crown type, the only indica-
tions of whether a step in the procedure applies are the
crown-type markings. FULL FORK SERVICE
NOTE: Because this is an inverted fork, the terms
“stanchions” and “sliders” might be misinter-
TOOL REQUIREMENTS preted if used in the following procedure. For
this reason, the two tube sets are referred to
requires some relatively unique tools. here as “upper tubes” and ”lower tubes.”
The single crown and dual crown models have differ- Disassembly
ent bushing designs, and each type requires unique bushing 1. [ ] Counting turns, turn both preload adjusters
tools. For double-crown seal removal only, an upper-tube fully counterclockwise and record here.
protector #R-5099 is required. For double-crown seal left____ right____
installation, a seal installer #R-5098 is required. A 10" long 2. [ ] Dual crown only: Counting turns, turn damp-
(or longer) screwdriver, or similar leverage tool, is needed ing-adjuster rods fully counterclockwise and
record here. left____ right____
for removing the double-crown model seals. For the single-
Single crown only: Counting turns, turn
crown model, there are no special tools for seal removal, damper adjuster rod fully counterclockwise
but a unique seal installer (#R-5107) is required. and record here: ____.
A 21mm (single crown), 24mm (single crown), or 3. [ ] Single crown only: Use 2mm hex key to
28mm (dual crown) socket is required that is used on remove ECC lever from left upper-tube cap.
low-profile aluminum fittings. These types of fittings All: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen set screws
require modification of the socket to achieve acceptable in preload adjusters, then remove adjusters.
purchase. Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that 4. [ ] Single crown only: Remove e-clips from
causes the internal flats to start a millimeter or more from studs protruding from upper-tube caps.
the end of the socket. File the socket end so the internal 5. [ ] Single crown only: Disassemble headset,
then remove fork from frame.
flats start immediately at the end of the socket.
Dual crown only: Loosen all upper-crown
A regular 15mm socket with an extension that can bolts, then disassemble headset and remove
reach 4" into the lower tubes is needed. fork from frame.
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil 6. [ ] Clamp fork column in bike-stand clamp with
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can back face of fork toward you.
38 – 99
7. [ ] Use socket to remove left upper-tube cap. 23. [ ] Remove plastic lower-tube protectors.
8. [ ] Unthread preload sleeve (clockwise) from 24. [ ] Single crown only: Use small flat screw-
damper rod. driver to pry dust wipers out bottoms of
There is a minor difference between the ’01 and upper tubes. NOTE: Avoid scratching lower
’02/’03 models in the sequence of spacers, washers, tubes! Some cosmetic damage to bottom
and springs inside the upper tubes. Look for model-year ends of upper tubes may be unavoidable!
indications on the fork to be prepared for this. There are 25. [ ] Single crown only: Use seal pick to remove
clip inside each upper tube.
no other external differences. If there is no model-year
26. [ ] Single crown only: Pull firmly on lower tubes
indication on the fork, simply read both versions of the to extract lower tubes from upper tubes
next step so you will be able to recognize which applies by (both sides). NOTE: Firm resistance will be
the sequence of parts encountered during disassembly. encountered due to the fact that oil-pressure
9. [ ] ’02/’03 only: Remove washer, sleeve, and seals are being extracted from upper tubes!
spring from upper tube. 27. [ ] Single crown only: Carefully spread gap in
’01 only: Remove washer, spring, sleeve, upper bushing with screwdriver, then pull
and pronged washer from upper tube. upper bushing off top end of lower tube.
10. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump 28. [ ] Single crown only: Remove lower bushings,
lower tube and drain oil into empty waste washers, oil-pressure seals, clips, and dust
receptacle. Pump rod to drain additional oil. wipers from lower tubes.
Stuff upper tube with lint-free paper shop 29. [ ] Double crown only: Put slider protector on
towel to prevent further draining. top of slider, insert screwdriver under oil-
11. [ ] Return fork to vertical position, then repeat pressure seal and on top of washer, then pry
steps 7–10 for other side. out oil-pressure seal (both sides).
12. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt 30. [ ] Double crown only: Remove washers that
(stock is 7.5wt). were below seals.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 31. [ ] Double crown only: Remove bushings and
13. [ ] Use 15mm socket on extension to remove spacer from inside upper tubes. NOTE: It may
nuts inside bottoms of lower tubes. It may be necessary to carefully strike bottom end
be necessary to use a spring to apply pres- of upper tube squarely against wooden sur-
sure from top of upper tube to stop cartridge face to release bushings. If this fails, carefully
from spinning. insert a tool to catch and extract bushings!
14. [ ] Push damper assemblies out tops of upper
tubes. Seal and bushing replacement
15. [ ] Double crown only: Pull lower tubes out of 32. [ ] Single crown only: Cover sharp edges of
upper tubes, then remove coil-spring rings bushing grooves in lower tubes with thin
from dust wipers. layer of tape.
16. [ ] Stuff bottoms of lower tubes with shop 33. [ ] Single crown only: Install new dust wipers
towels. (cupped-face last) onto tops of lower tubes,
then install clips, oil pressure seals (cupped-
Cleaning and inspection face last), washers, and lower bushings
17. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water (coating on inside) onto lower tubes.
solution, then dry with compressed air and/ 34. [ ] Single crown only: Remove tape (clean off
or lint-free paper shop towels. adhesive), then install upper bushings (coat-
18. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks. ing on outside) into grooves in lower tubes.
19. [ ] Inspect upper-tube tubes and fork column 35. [ ] Single crown only: Rotate bushings so gaps
for bends. are at sides of tubes, then insert lower tubes
20. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage. into bottom ends of upper tubes until oil-
21. [ ] Inspect outside of lower tubes for wear pressure seal is against upper tube.
marks, nicks, and scratches. 36. [ ] Single crown only: Sandwich seal installer
22. [ ] Oil loss at bottoms of upper tubes indicates around lower tube so just bushings are
oil-pressure seals are worn out. between tool and upper tubes, then use tool
NOTE: Skip to step 45 if bushings and seals are to drive in bushings (both sides).
not being replaced. 37. [ ] Single crown only: Repeat technique in step
Seal and bushing removal 36 to install washer and oil-pressure seal in
each upper tube.
NOTE: Removing dust seals and oil-pressure seals
will destroy them. Proceed with seal and bushing
service only if all replacement parts are available.
38 – 100
Preload knob
Clip
ETA lever
Preload knob Stanchion cap

Clip
Stanchion cap
Preload sleeve
Washer
Preload sleeve
Washer Spacer
Spacer
Spring
(partial)
Spring
(partial)
Bushing
Bushing
Washer
Oil-pressure
seal
Clip
ETA cartridge Wiper seal Rebound damper
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Bottom nuts
38.20 ’03 Marzocchi Shiver SC fork.
38 – 101
38. [ ] Single crown only: Install clip into bottom of 56. [ ] Pull left rod up fully, then drop spring over
each upper tube, then use seal installer to rod and catch rod before it drops.
drive in dust seals. 57. [ ] ’02/’03 only: Place black sleeve (longer
39. [ ] Double crown only: Insert bushing, spacer, sleeve, if any) and plastic washer (flat face
and bushing in each upper tube (splits in first) over top of rod, then thread on preload
bushings should be at sides of tubes, not sleeve until a few threads are exposed.
front or back). ’01 only: Place pronged washer, sleeve,
40. [ ] Double crown only: Place washer on top of spring, and plastic washer (flat face first)
each bushing. over top of rod, then thread on preload
41. [ ] Double crown only: Grease oil-pressure seal sleeve until a few threads are exposed.
and place open-face first into slider tube. Then 58. [ ] Snap upper-tube cap onto preload sleeve, then
use seal installer to drive in seal (both sides). install e-clip in slot in rod.
42. [ ] Double crown only: Install clip on top of 59. [ ] Install preload adjuster onto rod, then gently
each seal, then seat with seal installer. secure set screw.
43. [ ] Double crown only: Install dust wiper 60. [ ] Repeat steps 56–59 for other side.
on top of each seal, then seat with seal 61. [ ] Pull lower tubes fully up, then thread in
installer (remove coil-spring rings if dust upper-tube caps.
wipers are new). 62. [ ] Secure upper-tube cap to 95in-lbs. Repeat
44. [ ] Install lower-tube protectors. for other side.
63. [ ] Double crown only: Remove upper-tube
Assembly clamp bolts from fork crown, treat threads
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. with Loctite 242, then reinstall bolts.
45. [ ] Double crown only: Install coil-spring rings 64. [ ] Double crown only: Torque all bolts to 70in-
onto lower tubes. lbs. Side-by-side bolts should be torqued
46. [ ] Double crown only: Install lower-tube in alternation, repeatedly, until neither bolt
assembly into bottoms of upper tubes. rotates at 70in-lbs.
47. [ ] Insert cartridge with brass adjusting rod (if 65. [ ] Turn both preload adjusters fully counter-
any) into top of left upper tube, or insert clockwise, then reset preload adjusters to
either damper if they are identical. settings recorded in step 1.
48. [ ] Insert remaining cartridge in top of right 66. [ ] Single crown only: Install ECC lever.
upper tube. 67. [ ] Single crown only: Install fork in frame and
49. [ ] While pushing down on cartridge, use 15mm assemble headset.
socket on extension to engage nut to stud Dual crown only: Remove upper-crown bolts,
on bottom of cartridge, then secure to 95in- then install fork in frame and assemble head-
lbs (both sides). set, including upper crown (no bolts). Adjust
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. headset, then treat crown bolts with Loctite
50. [ ] Push lower tubes down fully. 242, then secure all crown bolts to 105in-lbs.
51. [ ] Double crown only: Install coil-spring rings
onto dust seals.
52. [ ] Single crown only: Add 75cc new oil to
each upper tube (7.5wt is stock).
TUNING OPTIONS
Double crown only: Add 150cc new oil to Sag adjustment
each upper tube (7.5wt is stock). Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
53. [ ] With fork close to fully compressed, slowly sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
and carefully pump lower tubes up and The preload adjusters on top of the legs adjust the sag.
down an inch or two, repeatedly, until bub- Clockwise rotation reduces sag. The following table shows
bles stop rising. the recommended sag for each travel range.
54. [ ] Pump rods up and down until no bubbles are
seen, then leave rods fully down. SAG SETTINGS
55. [ ] Single crown only: With upper tubes and Travel Sag range
rods fully down, measure oil depth from 130mm 25–40mm
top of upper tubes and adjust until depth is 190mm 40–57mm
45mm on both sides.
Double crown only: With upper tubes fully If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjust-
down, measure oil depth from top of upper ment of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight
tubes and adjust until depth is 75mm in range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full coun-
both upper tubes. terclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a spring for
38 – 102
a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag has
been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style, the MARZOCCHI FORKS:
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a spring for a heavier
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due
’03 MX & ’03 JR. T
to a very non-aggressive riding style, a spring for a lighter
rider will provide a more comfortable ride. ABOUT THIS SECTION
The following table of coil springs shows the correct This section covers these 2003 Marzocchi models:
spring for different weight ranges. Note that the ranges MX Comp Coil
overlap. For extreme conditions and aggressive riding MX Comp ETA
styles, when a rider’s weight is in the overlap zone, use MX Comp Aria
the higher range that includes the rider’s weight. MX Pro Coil
MARZOCCHI COIL SPRINGS MX Pro ETA
Travel (mm) Color Rider weight Part # MX Pro Aria
130 (SC) None1 145–180lbs 5141155
Jr. T
All of these models, except the Jr. T, have 30mm stan-
130 (SC) Yellow 120–155lbs 5141162
chions. Of the ’03 models, only MX forks and the Marathon
130 (SC) White 145–180lbs 5141163
series have 30mm stanchions. The ’03 Jr. T is a double-crown
130 (SC) Red 170–205lbs 5141164
fork with 32mm stanchions. If the decals are intact, the model
130 (SC) Green 195–240lbs 5141191 and model year should be evident, but if not, the nuts on
190 (DC) None 120–155lbs 5141235 the bottoms of the sliders can be a model-year indicator.
190 (DC) None 145–180lbs 5141203 Pre-’03 models have the bottom nuts up inside wells in the
190 (DC) None 180–210lbs 5141202 bottom ends of the sliders, but as of ’03, all models in these
1
Progressive (non-linear) spring has closer-spaced series have bottom nuts exposed at the very bottoms of the
coils at top end of spring. sliders. The MX models for 29" forks are the exception for
the location of the bottom nuts. Additionally, all of the forks
Rebound-damping adjustment covered in this section have either two preload knobs or
All the forks in this section have an external rebound- have an air valve on one side and an ETA (Extension Travel
damping adjustment on the top of the right, or both, upper Adjustment) lever on the other side.
tubes. With an external adjuster, the user generally does For comparison, the ’03 Marathon models either have
this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the most air valves on both sides or a preload knob on one side and
clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping for an ETA lever on the other side. The ’03 Marathon models
the rider’s preference, higher-weight oil should be used. are covered in a separate section.
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. If In summary, the combination of exposed bottom
changing oil weight to change damping, only change the nuts, 30mm stanchions, and the presence of dual pre-
side(s) with an adjusting rod. load and no ETA (or a single air spring) indicates the
Extension-control adjustment fork is a MX or EXR model covered by this section. The
The single-crown model has a lever on top of the left combination of a double crown, 32mm stanchions, and
leg that is an extension control (ECC). In the more clockwise the presence of dual plastic preload knobs indicates the
position, the ECC lever causes the fork to stay compressed fork is a Jr. T covered by this section.
at the lowest point achieved while the lever is in this position. If there are adjustment knobs on both stanchion caps,
Once the lever is turned counterclockwise, the fork returns then there are coil springs in each side. If there is an air-
to normal operation. The user typically operates this lever to valve cap on the right side and an ETA lever on the left
change fork performance during climbing conditions. side, then the right side is an air spring and the left side
is a coil spring. If there are air-valve caps on both sides,
the fork has dual air springs. Variations in procedure that
are due to the spring differences are marked either dual
coil only, dual air only, or coil + air only. Variations
in procedure that are due to the presence or absence of
the ETA feature are marked either ETA only or non-ETA
only. Additionally, some models have an external rebound
adjuster on the bottom of the right side. Variations in
procedure that are due to the presence or absence of the
38 – 103
external rebound adjustment feature are marked either
external adjust only or all except external adjust. The
OIL CHANGE ONLY
MX models for 29" wheels have a different bushing sys-
tem. Variations in procedure for the bushing difference are
marked MX 29" only. The Jr. T requires different tools 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–10.
for seal and bushing removal and installation, but the pro- 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 46–47.
cedure is no different than the MX and EXR models. 3. [ ] Repeat steps 7–9 (both sides).

requires some relatively unique tools. SPRING CHANGE ONLY
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools At the time of this writing, no spring kits were listed
that work on virtually all other post-’02 Marzocchi forks for any of these forks. The coil + air spring models are
work on these models. Manitou bushing removers for forks adjusted for rider weight and style by adjusting air pressure,
with matching stanchion diameters are a suitable substitute so there would be no need for spring changes.
for the Marzocchi tools, but all other tools are unique.
MX and EXR seal & bushing tools:
Slider protector: #R-5089-AB FULL FORK SERVICE
Seal installer: #R-5090
Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for Jr. T) position with back side facing you for follow-
Upper-bushing installer: #R-5114 BZ/R ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
Lower-bushing installer: #R-5115 BZ/R
Jr. T seal & bushing tools: Disassembly
Slider protector: #R-5124/C 1. [ ] Coil + air only: Remove valve cap on top of
right stanchion. Use pump to measure exist-
Seal installer: #R-5123/C
ing pressure, then deflate. right side: ____psi
Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for MX) Dual coil only: Turn preload knobs fully
Upper-bushing installer: #R-5116 AA/R counterclockwise, counting turns.
Lower-bushing installer: #R-5117 AA/R left side ____ right side ____
A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, or similar leverage Dual air only: Remove valve caps on top of
tool, is needed for removing the seals. Another useful tool stanchions. Use pump to measure existing
for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp of the type pressures, then deflate.
made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck. The QR20 left side ____ right side ____
models require a Hurricane Fork Up (#1011C) adapter 2. [ ] ETA models only: Turn ETA lever to counter-
to fit on the fork clamp. clockwise position, then use 2mm hex key
to remove ETA lever.
A unique ultra-thin wall 12mm socket (Marzocchi
3. [ ] ETA models only: Use 21mm socket to
#R-5122/C) is required on several models. unthread left stanchion cap, then push
A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile sliders up.
aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modifica- Non-ETA models only: Use 21mm socket to
tion of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets unthread both stanchion caps, then remove
typically have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats spacers, washers, and springs. Reinstall
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. right stanchion cap. NOTE: Jr. T has two
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately springs per side, separated by a washer.
at the end of the socket. 4. [ ] ETA models only: Use 10mm open-end
Internal snap-ring pliers are required for these wrench to hold red locknut below stanchion
cap stationary, then turn stanchion cap coun-
forks. The snap-rings have 1.2mm holes. Tips that
terclockwise to remove it from ETA rod.
closely fit this size hole are needed. Bent tips are pref- 5. [ ] ETA models only: Remove red locknut from
erable to straight tips. ETA rod, then remove spring cap. NOTE:
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil If locknut is jammed at bottom of threads,
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can thread two extra locknuts onto rod, lock
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is together, then hold top nut while breaking
more convenient. loose the jammed one.
38 – 104
Valve cap Valve cap

ETA lever
Stanchion cap Stanchion
(with preload) cap (air)
Stanchion Stanchion
cap cap (air)
Preload sleeve RIGHT SIDE:

Stanchion May have coil or
Locknut (partial)
Washer air spring with
Spring cap internal-adjust
or bottom-adjust
damper.
Spring Spring
C-clip
(partial) (partial)
Spring Valve
(partial)
Split ring
Split ring
Damper
Spring base
Damper
Wiper seal
Clip
Oil-pressure
seal Rebound-
adjuster rod
Stanchion (rod and
(partial) Bushing e-clip on
bottom-adjust
types only)
Bushing
Slider (partial) Top-out

LEFT SIDE: spring
Top-out
May have ETA cartridge Stop plate
spring
(with coil spring, only)
or may have a non- Stop plate Valve spring
adjustable damper.
Non-adjustable-damper
Valve plate Valve plate
version may be with air
spring or may be with Bottom nuts O-ring
O-ring
coil spring.
Foot cap Foot cap
O-ring O-ring
Rebound-
adjuster e-clip
ETA cartridge Aluminum knob Aluminum
sleeve sleeve
Snap-ring Snap-ring
38.21 The ’03 Marzocchi MX fork series features several combinations of springs and dampers.
38 – 105
6. [ ] ETA models only: Remove spring, then com-
press ETA rod fully.
Seal and bushing removal
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider
7. [ ] Non-ETA side(s) only: Tip fork to 45º assembly in fork clamp.
inverted position, then pump slider and drain 24. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
oil into empty waste receptacle. 25. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider.
ETA side only: Tip fork to 45º inverted posi- 26. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
tion, then pump slider and drain oil into screwdriver under oil-pressure seal, then pry
empty waste receptacle (watch for spring out oil-pressure seal (both sides).
base plate falling out). Pump ETA rod to
The following steps (#27 – #30) utilize a Marzocchi
drain additional oil (leave fully compressed).
8. [ ] Stuff stanchion with lint-free paper shop
bushing-removal tool. If you are already equipped with a
towel to prevent further draining. Manitou bushing remover for forks with 30mm stanchions,
9. [ ] With fork in vertical position, remove other this is sufficient for removing bushings in these forks. In
stanchion cap and repeat step 7. this case, refer to one of the Manitou procedures for forks
10. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt with 30mm stanchions (X-Vert or Black models).
(stock is 7.5wt). NOTE: Skip to step 33 if not replacing bushings.
NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position. 27. [ ] MX and EXR only: Install pilot cylinder
11. [ ] External adjust only: Use 2mm hex key (large-end first) onto bushing-extractor shaft,
to remove adjuster knob, then use 12mm then install 32mm extractor plate (small-face
socket to remove right bottom nut and 6mm first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt.
bit socket to remove left bottom nut. Jr. T only: Install pilot cylinder (small-end
All except external adjust: Use 12mm socket first) onto bushing-extractor shaft, then
to remove bottom nuts. install 34mm extractor plate (small-face
NOTE: If nut(s) won’t spin off, press from first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt.
above with spring or plastic pipe. 28. [ ] All except MX 29": With extractor plate
12. [ ] Stuff holes in bottoms of slider tubes with tipped at angle, install plate through bushing,
shop towels, then pull slider off. then seat pilot cylinder into top of slider tube.
13. [ ] ETA only: Remove ETA assembly from MX 29" only: Remove washer, then use fin-
left stanchion or slider (whichever it has ger or seal pick to withdraw bushing sleeve.
remained with). 29. [ ] All except MX 29": With slider held upside
Non-ETA only: Remove snap-ring in bottom down, use slide hammer to remove bushing.
of left stanchion, then withdraw damper 30. [ ] Repeat steps 28-29 for lower bushing, then
assembly. repeat bushing removal for other side.
14. [ ] Remove snap-ring in bottom of right stan-
chion, then withdraw damper assembly.
Seal and bushing replacement
15. [ ] Remove aluminum cylinder from bottom end Marzocchi makes a pair of bushing installers for 30mm-
of damper(s), and remove split ring(s) from stanchion forks and a pair of bushing installers for 32mm-
top(s) of piston head(s). stanchion forks. To select the correct pair, check the fit of
16. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers the bushings to the small end of the tools. The longer one
on tops of sliders. of the pair is used first (to install the lower bushing), then
Cleaning and inspection the shorter one is used for the upper bushing.
31. [ ] All except MX 29": Install smaller-O.D.
bushing onto small end of longer bush-
solution, then dry with compressed air and/
ing installer, tap on installation tool until
or lint-free paper shop towels.
bushing is fully installed, then pull out tool
18. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
(repeat for other side).
19. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
MX 29" only: Install bushing sleeve with
bends.
slot at 3:00 or 9:00 position, then install
20. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
washer on top of bushing (both sides).
21. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
32. [ ] All except MX 29": Install larger-O.D.
marks, nicks, and scratches.
bushing onto small end of shorter bush-
22. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid-
ing installer, tap on installation tool until
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out.
bushing is fully installed, then pull out tool
23. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
(repeat for other side).
partially missing if bushings are worn out.
NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings and seals are
first into slider tube, then use seal installer
not being replaced.
38 – 106
34. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat 50. [ ] ETA only: Install red locknut fully onto rod,
with seal installer. then engage ETA stanchion cap to rod
35. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then (thread on fully, then back off 1/2 turn).
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring Hold red locknut with 10mm open-end
rings if dust wipers are new). wrench, then secure cap to 55in-lbs.
51. [ ] With slider fully down, thread in stanchion
Assembly caps and secure to 95in-lbs.
36. [ ] Install split ring(s) into groove(s) in damper- 52. [ ] Coil + air only: Pressurize right side to pres-
piston head(s). sure recorded in step 1, or to guidelines in
37. [ ] Install aluminum sleeve (cupped-face first) TUNING OPTIONS, then install valve cap.
onto damper shaft(s). Dual coil only: Restore preload setting
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. recorded in step 1.
38. [ ] ETA only: Insert ETA cartridge into bottom Dual air only: Pressurize both sides to pres-
end of left stanchion. sure recorded in step 1, or to guidelines in
39. [ ] ETA only: Insert damper assembly into bot- TUNING OPTIONS, then install valve cap.
tom of right stanchion. 53. [ ] ETA only: Attach ETA lever to ETA rod and
Non-ETA only: Insert dampers into bottoms secure bolt with 2mm hex key.
of stanchions.
40. [ ] Install snap-ring (flatter-face out) into bottom
of right stanchion (non-ETA, both sides).
TUNING OPTIONS
42. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. Sag adjustment
43. [ ] External adjust only: Pushing down on Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
damper/cartridge from above, engage 12mm sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The
hex nut into bottom of right slider and 6mm air pressure adjusts sag on the forks with an air valve on
hex-socket nut into bottom of left slider. the right, and the preload knobs adjust sag on the dual-coil
All except external adjust: Pushing down on models. The following table shows the recommended sag
damper/cartridge from above, engage 12mm
for each travel range.
hex nuts into bottoms of both sliders.
44. [ ] Secure both bottom nuts to 95in-lbs. SAG SETTINGS
45. [ ] External adjust only: Install adjusting knob Travel Sag range
onto bottom of right stanchion, then secure 85mm 9–17mm
with 2mm hex key.
100mm 20–30mm
46. [ ] ETA only: Pull ETA rod fully out and use ETA 105mm 21–32mm
lever to check that ETA is adjusted fully If there is too much sag at the high end of the recom-
counterclockwise. mended air pressure range, an air pressure for a heavier
47. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil- weight range is needed (or different coils for dual-coil
spring rings to dust wipers.
models). If there is too little sag at the low end of the
48. [ ] Slowly add new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt
is stock). See following table for volumes. recommended range, an air pressure for a lighter weight
range is needed (or different coils for dual-coil models). If
INITIAL OIL VOLUME* the correct sag has been achieved, but due to an aggressive
Model Travel/Size ETA side Damper sides(s) riding style, the rider regularly bottoms the fork, use an air
MX (all) 85 or 105 100cc 115cc pressure for a heavier rider (or different coils for dual-coil
EXR 100 n/a 115cc models). Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork
MX (all) 29" 90cc 105cc due to a very non-aggressive riding style, an air pressure
Jr. T 170 n/a 250cc for a lighter rider will provide a more comfortable ride
* See TUNING OPTIONS (spring rate) for additional guid- (or different coils for dual-coil models).
ance on final oil volume and/or level. For models with air springs (or air preload), the fol-
49. [ ] ETA only: Pull ETA rod fully up, then install lowing table of air pressures is a starting point. Variations
spring base plate (flat-face up), spring, and in riding style, conditions, and frame design can and will
spring cap (small-end first) over ETA rod. lead to choosing an air pressure outside the recommended
Dual coil only: Push slider fully down, then starting range. Consider 65psi a maximum pressure.
install springs, washers, and spacers on
each side.
38 – 107
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES or subtracted should change the height by approximately

5mm, which is a good increment to work with.
120–155lbs 30–40psi
Rebound-damping adjustment
155–180lbs 35–45psi The models with adjustable rebound damping have
180–210lbs 42–52psi a rebound adjuster inside the right stanchion or on the
>210lbs 52–65psi bottom of the right leg. If there is no adjustment knob
on the bottom of the right leg, the stanchion cap must be
Spring rate and oil level removed to perform the adjustment. A 3mm hex key at
The manufacturer provides oil volumes, but not final least 9" long is needed to reach the adjuster. If the most
oil levels. The volume data provided by the manufacturer counterclockwise adjustment (viewed from above) does
has proven to be inconsistent, self contradictory, and not create enough damping for the rider’s preference,
generally unreliable. The recommendations in this sec- higher-weight oil should be used. Make changes in oil
tion have been based on actual measurement for some weight by very small increments. Change the oil weight
models, but in some cases they are extracted from the only in the right side.
manufacturer’s original recommendations.
The manufacturer no longer provides oil level Extension-travel adjustment
information, which is the final way to determine that the This fork has a lever on top of the left leg that is an
amount of oil is correct. Low or high oil levels create two extension travel adjustment (ETA). In the more clockwise
different symptoms. By understanding these symptoms, position, the ETA lever causes the fork to stay compressed
the mechanic can determine if the oil level needs to be at the lowest point achieved while the lever is in this posi-
changed, but it is a trial-and-error method and may require tion (except that 30mm of travel is always retained). Once
several trips to the shop by the customer. the lever is turned counterclockwise, the fork returns to
When the oil level is too low, there are two symptoms normal operation. The user typically operates this lever to
that might occur: change fork performance during climbing conditions.
1. The fork will rebound harshly (sudden increase in
rate of rebound) at the end of the rebound stroke.
2. The fork will bottom too easily at an air pres-
sure or coil-spring preload setting that achieves MARZOCCHI FORKS:
the correct sag.
When the oil level is too high, there are two symptoms
’03 SL MODELS
that might occur:
1. The fork is unresponsive to small and medium ABOUT THIS SECTION
impacts. Compression is generally harsh. This section covers the 2003 Marzocchi Marathon
2. The fork never compresses fully under any con- SL and 2003 Z1 Freeride SL forks. The 2002 Marathon,
ditions, even though the air-pressure or coil-spring 2003 Marathon 29" SL, 2003 Marathon S, and all non-air
preload settings achieve the correct amount of sag. 2003 Freeride models are covered in other sections. If the
In previous model years, the manufacturer did provide decals are intact, model names and model years should
oil level information for similar, but not identical, forks. be evident. If there are no decals, the primary charac-
HISTORICAL OIL DEPTHS teristic that distinguishes these forks is the presence of
Spring Travel (mm) Depth a five-position knob on top of the right stanchion. The
Coil 150+ 90mm
Marathon 29" SL also has the five-position knob, but it
has bottom nuts in recessed wells in the bottoms of the
Coil 130 50mm
slider tubes. The SL models that are covered in this sec-
Coil 100–110 45mm
tion have exposed nuts at the very bottoms of the legs,
Coil 80 40mm
adjacent to the dropouts.
Air all 40mm The only difference between the covered models
The oil level is measured when the fork is fully com- that affects procedure is that the Marathon has 30mm
pressed and the coil springs (if any) are removed. Any stanchions, and the Z1 Freeride has 32mm stanchions.
cartridge shafts should also be compressed. From the Consequently, different tools are needed for removing
top of the stanchion, the recommended oil levels were and installing seals and bushings.
historically between 40mm and 55mm. Each 2cc added
38 – 108

In addition to common tools, working on these forks 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 6 (do one side at a
requires some relatively unique tools. time).
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools 4. [ ] Repeat steps 51–53.
that work on virtually all other post-’02 Marzocchi forks 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 54–60.
work on these models. Manitou bushing removers for forks
with matching stanchion diameters are a suitable substitute
for the Marzocchi tools, but all other tools are unique. FULL FORK SERVICE
Marathon seal & bushing tools:
Slider protector: #R-5089-AB position with back side facing you for follow-
Seal installer: #R-5090 ing “left” and “right” references to correspond.
Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for Freeride SL)
Upper-bushing installer: #R-5114 BZ/R Disassembly
Lower-bushing installer: #R-5115 BZ/R These forks have three air springs (two positive and
Z1 Freeride seal & bushing tools: one negative). The positive air-spring valves are on the
Slider protector: #R-5124/C outer perimeter of each stanchion cap, under the plastic
Seal installer: #R-5123/C covers. The negative spring is in the center of the left
Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for Marathon SL) stanchion cap. To access the air springs on the left, the
Upper-bushing installer: #R-5116 AA/R entire cap is unthreaded. To access the air spring on the
Lower-bushing installer: #R-5117 AA/R right, the rubber plug is pulled from the plastic knob, then
A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, or similar leverage the knob is rotated until the air valve is revealed.
tool, is needed for removing the seals. Another useful tool 1. [ ] Remove valve caps on tops of stanchions.
Use pump to measure existing positive pres-
for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp of the type
sures, then deflate all valves.
made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck. The QR20 right side ____psi left side ____psi
models require a Hurricane Fork Up (#1011C) adapter 2. [ ] If pressure loss is apparent, pressurize valve
to fit on the fork clamp. and check with soapy water at valve and
Additional Marzocchi tools are needed. One of the stan- stanchion cap perimeter. If no air is being
chion caps is threaded onto a cartridge shaft. A Marzocchi lost, oil leaks at tops or bottoms of sliders are
#R-5160/CD shaft clamp (or any other 8mm radius block) source of pressure loss (deflate valves again,
is needed to hold the shaft. A high-quality shock pump for leaving pump adapter in negative spring).
the air valves is required for the air-spring model. A pump 3. [ ] Turn ECC knob to counterclockwise position.
adapter #R-5321038 is also required for these models. To Watching carefully for spring-loaded detent
stud under knob, use 2mm hex key to remove
service the seals in the negative-air cartridge, bullet tool #R-
ECC knob, then remove stud and spring.
5126CD is needed to protect the seals during reassembly. A 4. [ ] Remove C-clip from stud protruding from
unique ultra-thin wall 12mm socket (Marzocchi #R-5122/C) right stanchion cap.
is required on Z1 models. 5. [ ] Use 21mm socket to remove right stanchion
A 21mm socket is required for use on low-profile alumi- cap (push slider up as necessary to lift cap).
num fittings. This type of fitting requires modification of the 6. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then pump
socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets have a bevel slider and drain oil into empty waste recep-
in the end that causes the internal flats to start a millimeter tacle. Pump rod to drain additional oil.
or more from the end of the socket. File the socket end so 7. [ ] Put fork in vertical position, reinstall right
the flats start immediately at the end of the socket. stanchion cap to ECC rod, then install stan-
chion cap to stanchion.
8. [ ] Remove pump adapter from left cap.
volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can Unthread left stanchion cap, push slider fully
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is up, then pull left rod fully up. Clamp left rod
more convenient. in shaft clamp and unthread stanchion cap
from rod. Repeat step 6 for left side.
OIL CHANGE ONLY 9. [ ] Remove remaining stanchion cap.
10. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the (stock is 7.5wt).
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
38 – 109
11. [ ] Use 6mm bit socket to remove nuts on bot- NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings are not being
toms of sliders. It may be necessary to apply replaced.
pressure through top of stanchion to stop 30. [ ] Marathon only: Install pilot cylinder (large-
cartridges from spinning. end first) onto bushing-extractor shaft, then
12. [ ] Stuff bottoms of sliders with shop towels, install 32mm extractor plate (small-face
then pull slider off. first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt.
13. [ ] Remove cartridges from stanchions or sliders Freeride only: Install pilot cylinder (small-
(wherever they remained). end first) onto bushing-extractor shaft, then
14. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers install 34mm extractor plate (small-face
on tops of sliders. first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt.
15. [ ] Reinstall left stanchion cap securely to 31. [ ] With extractor plate tipped at angle, install
air-cartridge shaft. Inflate to 150psi, then plate through bushing, then seat pilot cylin-
immerse unit to check for leaks at bottom of der into top of slider tube.
cartridge and at point shaft enters cartridge. 32. [ ] With slider held upside down, use slide ham-
16. [ ] Deflate cartridge and remove stanchion cap. mer to remove bushing.
17. [ ] Carefully clamp bottom end of negative-air 33. [ ] Repeat steps 31-32 for lower bushing, then
cartridge in soft jaws of vise, then unthread repeat bushing removal for other side.
seal head from top end of cartridge.
18. [ ] Only if air cartridge was leaking at point of Seal and bushing replacement
shaft entry, remove seal head from rod. Marzocchi makes a pair of bushing installers for
19. [ ] Pull rod assembly out of air cartridge, then 30mm-stanchion forks and a pair of bushing installers
remove O-ring from piston if air leak was for 32mm-stanchion forks. To select the correct pair,
found at bottom of cartridge. check the fit of the bushings to the small end of the
tools. The longer one of the pair is used first (to install
Cleaning and inspection the lower bushing), then the shorter one is used for the
solution, then dry with compressed air and/ upper bushing.
or lint-free paper towels. 34. [ ] Install smaller-O.D. bushing onto small end
21. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks. of longer bushing installer. Tap on installa-
22. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for tion tool until bushing is fully installed, then
bends. pull out tool (repeat for other side).
23. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage. 35. [ ] Install larger-O.D. bushing onto small end of
24. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear shorter bushing installer. Tap on installation
marks, nicks, and scratches. tool until bushing is fully installed, then pull
25. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid- out tool (repeat for other side).
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out. 36. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face
26. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be first into slider tube, then use seal installer
partially missing if bushings are worn out. to drive in seal (both sides).
NOTE: Skip to step 39 if bushings and seals are 37. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat
not being replaced. with seal installer.
Seal and bushing removal seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider rings if dust wipers are new).
assembly in fork clamp.
27. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders. Assembly
28. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
29. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert 39. [ ] If negative-air piston O-rings were leaking,
screwdriver under oil-pressure seal, then pry install new O-rings on piston.
out oil-pressure seal (both sides). 40. [ ] Lubricate air-piston O-rings, then insert piston
The following steps (#30 – #33) utilize a Marzocchi and rod assembly into negative-air cartridge.
41. [ ] If air-cartridge seal head was removed, install
bushing-removal tool. If you are already equipped with a
bullet tool on end of cartridge rod, then install
Manitou bushing remover for forks with 30mm or 32mm seal-head over bullet tool and onto rod.
stanchions, this is sufficient for removing bushings in these 42. [ ] Treat seal-head threads with Loctite 242.
forks. In this case, refer to one of the Manitou procedures 43. [ ] Carefully grasp bottom end of air cartridge
for forks with 30mm stanchions (X-Vert or Black models) in soft jaws in vise, then secure seal head to
or 32mm stanchions (Sherman models). cartridge body (stop at point cartridge slips).
44. [ ] Pull both rods fully up in cartridges.
38 – 110
Valve cap
ECC knob
Detent stud
Stanchion cap and spring
C-clip
Stanchion
cap
Negative-air-
cylinder head
Negative-air
piston shaft
and piston
Wiper seal
Clip
Oil-pressure
seal
ECC cartridge
Negative-air
cylinder Bushing
Bushing

O-ring
O-ring
Split ring
Bottom nut
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
38.22 ’03 Marzocchi Marathon SL fork.
38 – 111
45. [ ] Install ECC cartridge in bottom of right stan-
chion.
SAG SETTINGS
46. [ ] Insert air cartridge in bottom of left stanchion. Travel Sag range
47. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. 85mm 9–17mm
48. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non- 105mm 21–32mm
lithium suspension-specific grease.
49. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. The following table of air pressures is a starting point.
50. [ ] While using rod to push down on cartridge, Variations in riding style, conditions, and frame design can and
use 6mm bit socket to engage nut to studs will lead to choosing an air pressure outside the recommended
on bottom of cartridges, then secure to starting range. Consider 65psi a maximum pressure.
95in-lbs (both sides).
MARZOCCHI AIR PRESSURES
51. [ ] Use knob to check that brass stud on ECC
rod is adjusted fully counterclockwise. 120–155lbs 20–30psi
52. [ ] Push slider down to bottom of normal travel 155–180lbs 27–37psi
range (sliders will come off if pushed too far), 180–220lbs 35–45psi
then engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers. >210lbs 42–55psi
is stock). See following table for volume.
Spring rate and oil level
INITIAL OIL VOLUME* The manufacturer provides oil volumes, but not final
Model ECC side Negative air side oil levels. The volume data provided by the manufacturer
Marathon SL 85 90cc 70cc has proven to be inconsistent, self contradictory, and
Marathon SL 105 90cc 70cc generally unreliable. The recommendations in this sec-
Marathon SL 29 80cc 60cc tion have been based on actual measurement for some
Z1 Freeride SL 125cc 105cc models, but in some cases they are extracted from the
* See TUNING OPTIONS (spring rate) for additional guid-
manufacturer’s original recommendations.
ance on final oil volume and/or level. The manufacturer no longer provides oil level
information, which is the final way to determine that the
54. [ ] Pull right rod up fully, engage stanchion cap
to rod, then install C-clip to rod. amount of oil is correct. Low or high oil levels create two
55. [ ] Pull left rod up fully, clamp rod in shaft different symptoms. By understanding these symptoms,
clamp, then secure stanchion cap to rod to the mechanic can determine if the oil level needs to be
55in-lbs. changed, but it is a trial-and-error method and may require
56. [ ] Push slider fully down, then thread in both several trips to the shop by the customer.
stanchion caps and secure to 95in-lbs. When the oil level is too low, there are two symptoms
57. [ ] Pressurize both sides to pressure recorded in that might occur:
step 1 (or to guidelines in TUNING OPTIONS). 1. The fork will rebound harshly (sudden increase in
58. [ ] Inflate valve in center of left stanchion cap
rate of rebound) at the end of the rebound stroke.
to triple amount of pressure set in step 57
2. The fork will bottom too easily at an air pres-
(max. 150psi).
59. [ ] Install spring and detent stud (round-end up) sure or coil-spring preload setting that achieves
into hole in left stanchion cap. Align flatted the correct sag.
hole in bottom of rebound knob with flatted When the oil level is too high, there are two symptoms
stud, then secure knob to stud. that might occur:
60. [ ] Press rubber plug into left stanchion cap, then 1. The fork is unresponsive to small and medium
thread valve cap onto right stanchion cap. impacts. Compression is generally harsh.
2. The fork never compresses fully under any con-
TUNING OPTIONS ditions, even though the air pressure or coil-spring
preload settings achieve the correct amount of sag.
Sag adjustment In previous model years, the manufacturer did pro-
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider vide oil level information for similar, but not identical,
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. forks. The oil level is measured when the fork is fully
The air pressure adjusts sag. The following table shows compressed, and the coil springs (if any) are removed.
the recommended sag for each travel range. Any cartridge shafts should also be compressed. From the
top of the stanchion, the recommended oil levels were
38 – 112
historically between 40mm and 55mm. Each 2cc added is a small shaft with a screwdriver slot. A bottom rebound
or subtracted should change the height by approximately adjuster is a plastic knob on the bottom of the slider.
5mm, which is a good increment to work with. Variations in procedure that are due to the differ-
HISTORICAL OIL DEPTHS ences between dampers are marked either ETA only, top
rebound only, or bottom rebound only. Differences
Spring Travel (mm) Depth
in stanchion diameters do not affect the procedure that
Coil 150+ 90mm
is used, but they do affect the tool choices for seal and
Coil 130 50mm
bushing removal and installation.
Coil 100–110 45mm
Coil 80 40mm
Air all 40mm TOOL REQUIREMENTS
If performing seal or bushing service, the same tools
MARZOCCHI FORKS: that work on virtually all other post-’02 Marzocchi forks
work on these models. Manitou bushing removers for forks
’03 COIL & CARTRIDGE with matching stanchion diameters are a suitable substitute
for the Marzocchi tools, but all other tools are unique.
Marathon seal & bushing tools:
ABOUT THIS SECTION Slider protector: #R-5089-AB
This section covers 2003 Marzocchi Marathon, Super Seal installer: #R-5090
T, and Z1 forks, including the following models: Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for Z1/Super T)
Marathon S Upper-bushing installer: #R-5114 BZ/R
Z1 Dropoff Lower-bushing installer: #R-5115 BZ/R
Z1 Freeride Z1 and Super T seal & bushing tools:
Super T Slider protector: #R-5124/C
There are ’03 Marathon and Z1 models this section Seal installer: #R-5123/C
does not cover. Additionally, Marathon, Z1, and Super Bushing removal: #R-5118 (same for Marathon S)
T models from before ’03 are covered in other sections. Upper-bushing installer: #R-5116 AA/R
If the decals are intact, model names and model years Lower-bushing installer: #R-5117 AA/R
should be evident. If there are no decals, first look for a A 10" long (or longer) screwdriver, or similar leverage
distinguishing characteristic that separates ’03 models from tool, is needed for removing the seals. Another useful tool
’02 models. This characteristic is the location of the nuts for seal and bushing service is a fork clamp of the type
on the bottoms of the legs. The ’02 forks have bottom made for carrying a bike in a pickup truck. The QR20
nuts hidden inside wells in the bottoms of the legs. The models require a Hurricane Fork Up (#1011C) adapter
’03 models have exposed nuts at the very bottoms of the to fit on the fork clamp.
legs, adjacent to the dropouts. After establishing the fork A unique ultra-thin wall 12mm socket (Marzocchi #R-
is a ’03 model, all ’03 models not covered by this section 5122/C) is required on Z1 and Super T models.
can be eliminated by observing the stanchion caps. The A 21mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
models covered by this section have aluminum preload aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modi-
knobs with two flats on each knob on each stanchion cap. fication of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase.
A ’03 fork with plastic preload knobs or plastic air-valve Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that causes the
caps is covered in a different section. internal flats to start a millimeter or more from the end
Within the group covered in this section, there are varia- of the socket. File the socket end so the internal flats start
tions in damping adjustment (an ETA damper and a top immediately at the end of the socket.
rebound adjuster, an ETA damper and a bottom rebound Internal snap-ring pliers are required for the Z1
adjuster, or two top rebound adjusters) and variations in Dropoff. The snap-rings have 1.2mm holes. Tips that
stanchion diameter (30mm and 32mm). ETA stands for closely fit this size hole are needed. Bent tips are prefer-
Extension Travel Adjustment and is characterized by a lever able to straight tips.
on top of the stanchion cap that rotates 90 degrees to lock A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
the fork in the compressed position. A top rebound adjuster volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can
38 – 113
be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is 9. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Repeat previous
more convenient. three steps for right side.
Bottom rebound only: Repeat steps 6 and 8
for right side.
OIL CHANGE ONLY 10. [ ] Push slider fully up. Use e-clip to retain
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the stanchion cap back on right rod (or preload
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping stud), then thread in stanchion cap.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 11. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–15. pump slider and drain oil into empty waste
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 45–47. receptacle. Pump rod to drain additional oil.
3. [ ] Repeat step 11 (both sides). NOTE: Watch for spring base-plate washer
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 45–47. falling out as oil drains (one or both sides).
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 48–56. 12. [ ] Put fork in vertical position, reinstall left
stanchion cap to rebound-damper/ETA rod,
then install stanchion cap to stanchion.
SPRING CHANGE ONLY 13. [ ] Remove other C-clip and stanchion cap from
At the time of this writing, no spring kits were listed right side, then repeat step 11 for right side.
for any of these forks. 14. [ ] Remove remaining stanchion cap.
15. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt
(stock is 7.5wt).
FULL FORK SERVICE NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
16. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Use 6mm bit
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical socket to remove nuts on bottoms of slid-
position with back side facing you for follow- ers. It may be necessary to apply pressure
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. through top of stanchion to stop cartridges
from spinning.
Disassembly Bottom rebound only: Use 6mm bit socket
1. [ ] Counting turns, turn both preload adjusters to remove nut on bottom of left slider and a
fully counterclockwise and record here. deep 12mm socket to remove nut from bot-
left side ____ right side ____ tom of right slider. It may be necessary to
2. [ ] Top rebound only: Counting turns, turn apply pressure through top of stanchion to
adjuster rod in stanchion cap(s) fully coun- stop cartridge or piston from spinning.
terclockwise and record here. 17. [ ] Stuff holes in bottoms of sliders with shop
left side ____ right side ____ towels, then pull slider off.
Bottom rebound only: Counting turns, turn 18. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Remove car-
knob on bottom of right leg fully counter- tridges from stanchions or sliders (wherever
clockwise and record here: ____. NOTE: Use they remained).
2mm hex key to remove knob. Bottom rebound only: Remove snap-ring
3. [ ] ETA only: Turn lever to counterclockwise posi- from bottom of right stanchion, then
tion, then use 2mm hex key to remove lever. remove damper assembly. Remove ETA
4. [ ] Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen set screws in cartridge from stanchion or slider (wher-
preload adjusters, then remove adjusters. ever it remained).
5. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Remove C-clips 19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
from studs protruding from stanchion caps. on tops of sliders.
Bottom rebound only: Remove C-clip from
stud protruding from left stanchion cap. Cleaning and inspection
6. [ ] Use 21mm socket to remove left stanchion 20. [ ] Clean all parts with detergent-and-water
cap (push slider up as necessary to lift cap). solution, then dry with compressed air and/
7. [ ] Unthread preload sleeve (clockwise) from rod. or lint-free paper towels.
8. [ ] Remove washer(s), spacer (if any), and 21. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
spring(s) from left side. Note spacer and 22. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
spring lengths here: bends.
left spacer ______mm spring ______mm 23. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
right spacer ______mm spring ______mm 24. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
NOTE: Number of springs and washer num- marks, nicks, and scratches.
ber and sequence varies with model. 25. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid-
ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out.
38 – 114
Preload knob
ETA lever C-clip
Preload knob
C-clip Stanchion cap
Stanchion cap Preload

sleeve
Preload Washer
sleeve
Spacer
Washer
Spacer
Spring
(partial)
Spring
(partial)
Wiper seal
Stanchion
(partial) Clip
Stanchion
Oil-pressure (partial)
seal
Bushing
Bushing
ETA cartridge

Rebound-damper
cartridge
Bottom nut
38.23 A typical ’03 Marzocchi cartridge fork with coil springs.
38 – 115
26. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be 36. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face
partially missing if bushings are worn out. first into slider tube, then use seal installer
NOTE: Skip to step 39 if bushings and seals are to drive in seal (both sides).
not being replaced. 37. [ ] Install clip on top of each seal, then seat
Seal and bushing removal 38. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then
NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring
assembly in fork clamp. rings if dust wipers are new).
27. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
28. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider. Assembly
29. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
screwdriver under oil-pressure seal, then pry 39. [ ] ETA only: Insert ETA cartridge (brass stud
out oil-pressure seal (both sides). on top) into bottom end of left stanchion.
The following steps (#30 – #33) utilize a Marzocchi Non-ETA only: Insert rebound cartridge into
bushing-removal tool. If you are already equipped with a bottom of left leg.
Manitou bushing remover for forks with 30mm or 32mm 40. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Insert remaining
stanchions, this is sufficient for removing bushings in these cartridge in bottom of right stanchion.
Bottom rebound only: Insert damper assem-
forks. In this case, refer to one of the Manitou procedures
bly into bottom of right stanchion, then
for forks with 30mm stanchions (X-Vert or Black models) install snap-ring (flat-face out).
or 32mm stanchions (Sherman models). 41. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion.
NOTE: Skip to step 36 if bushings are not being 42. [ ] Thoroughly grease seals in sliders with non-
replaced. lithium suspension-specific grease.
30. [ ] Marathon only: Install pilot cylinder (large- 43. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions.
end first) onto bushing-extractor shaft, then 44. [ ] All except bottom rebound: While using
install 32mm extractor plate (small-face spring to push down on cartridge, use 6mm
first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt. bit socket to engage nut to studs on bot-
All except Marathon: Install pilot cylinder tom of cartridges, then secure to 95in-lbs
(small-end first) onto bushing-extractor shaft, (both sides).
then install 34mm extractor plate (small-face Bottom rebound only: While using spring to
first) onto shaft and install retaining bolt. push down on cartridge, use 6mm bit socket
31. [ ] With extractor plate tipped at angle, install to engage nut to stud on bottom of left car-
plate through bushing, then seat pilot cylin- tridge, then secure to 95in-lbs. Repeat for
der into top of slider tube. right side, using 12mm socket.
32. [ ] With slider held upside down, use slide ham- NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
mer to remove bushing. 45. [ ] ETA only: Pull ETA rod fully out and use
33. [ ] Repeat steps 31-32 for lower bushing, then lever to check that rod is adjusted fully
repeat bushing removal for other side. counterclockwise.
Seal and bushing replacement 46. [ ] Push slider down to bottom of normal travel
range (sliders will come off if pushed too far),
Marzocchi makes a pair of bushing installers for
then engage coil-spring rings to dust wipers.
30mm-stanchion forks and a pair of bushing installers
for 32mm-stanchion forks. To select the correct pair, is stock). See following table for volume.
check the fit of the bushings to the small end of the
tools. The longer one of the pair is used first (to install INITIAL OIL VOLUME*
the lower bushing), then the shorter one is used for the Model Left side Right side
upper bushing. Marathon S ETA-100cc Cartridge-115cc
34. [ ] Install smaller-O.D. bushing onto small end Z1 Dropoff ETA-125cc SSV-140cc
of longer bushing installer. Tap on installa- Z1 Freeride ETA-125cc Cartridge-140cc
tion tool until bushing is fully installed, then Super T Cartridge-245cc Cartridge-245cc
pull out tool (repeat for other side).
* See TUNING OPTIONS (spring rate) for additional guid-
35. [ ] Install larger-O.D. bushing onto small end of
ance on final oil volume and/or level.
shorter bushing installer. Tap on installation
tool until bushing is fully installed, then pull 48. [ ] Pull left rod up fully, install spring base-plate
out tool (repeat for other side). washer over rod, then drop left-side spring(s)
over rod and catch rod before it drops.
38 – 116
49. [ ] Place left-side spacer (if any) onto rod, then
plastic washer (flat-face first) over top of
Spring rate and oil level
The manufacturer provides oil volumes, but not final
rod, then thread on preload sleeve until a
few threads are exposed.
oil levels. The volume data provided by the manufacturer
50. [ ] Snap stanchion cap onto preload sleeve, has proven to be inconsistent, self contradictory, and
then install C-clip in slot in rod. generally unreliable. The recommendations in this sec-
51. [ ] All except bottom rebound: Repeat steps tion have been based on actual measurement for some
48–51 for other side. models, but in some cases they are extracted from the
Bottom rebound only: Drop spring and manufacturer’s original recommendations.
spacer into right stanchion. The manufacturer no longer provides oil level
52. [ ] Push slider fully down, then thread in both information, which is the final way to determine that the
stanchion caps and secure to 95in-lbs. amount of oil is correct. Low or high oil levels create two
53. [ ] Install preload adjuster onto rod, then gently
different symptoms. By understanding these symptoms,
secure set screw.
54. [ ] Turn both preload adjusters fully counter-
the mechanic can determine if the oil level needs to be
clockwise, then reset preload adjusters to changed, but it is a trial-and-error method and may require
setting recorded in step 1. several trips to the shop by the customer.
55. [ ] ETA only: Attach ETA lever to ETA rod and When the oil level is too low, there are two symptoms
gently secure bolt. that might occur:
56. [ ] Restore rebound damper adjustment(s) 1. The fork will rebound harshly (sudden increase in
recorded in step 2. rate of rebound) at the end of the rebound stroke.
57. [ ] Super T only: After installing fork and 2. The fork will bottom too easily at an air pres-
adjusting headset, secure upper-crown bolts sure or coil-spring preload setting that achieves
to 50in-lbs.
the correct sag.
When the oil level is too high, there are two symptoms
TUNING OPTIONS that might occur:
1. The fork is unresponsive to small and medium
Sag adjustment impacts. Compression is generally harsh.
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider 2. The fork never compresses fully under any con-
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. ditions, even though the air pressure or coil-spring
The preload adjusters on top of the legs adjusts the sag. preload settings achieve the correct amount of sag.
Clockwise rotation reduces sag. In previous model years, the manufacturer did provide
SAG SETTINGS oil level information for similar, but not identical, forks.
Travel Sag range The oil level is measured when the fork is fully compressed
85mm 9–17mm and the coil springs (if any) are removed. Any cartridge
105mm 21–32mm shafts should also be compressed. From the top of the
130mm 26–39mm stanchion, the recommended oil levels were historically
170mm 34–51mm
between 40mm and 55mm. Each 2cc added or subtracted
should change the height by approximately 5mm, which
If there is too much sag with a full clockwise adjust- is a good increment to work with.
ment of the preload knob, a spring for a heavier weight
range is needed. If there is too little sag with a full coun-
HISTORICAL OIL DEPTHS
Spring Travel (mm) Depth
terclockwise adjustment of the preload knob, a spring for
a lighter weight range is needed. If the correct sag has Coil 150+ 90mm
been achieved, but due to an aggressive riding style, the Coil 130 50mm
rider regularly bottoms the fork, use a spring for a heavier Coil 100–110 45mm
rider. Conversely, if the rider never bottoms the fork due Coil 80 40mm
to a very non-aggressive riding style, a spring for a lighter Air all 40mm
rider will provide a more comfortable ride.
At the time of this writing, coil-spring kits for the ’03 Rebound-damping adjustment
models were not yet available. The coil forks in this section have an external
rebound-damping adjustment on the top of the right
stanchion (both sides for Super T) or the bottom of the
right stanchion (Z1 Dropoff). With an external adjuster,
38 – 117
the user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her
riding style. If the most clockwise adjustment does not
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
create enough damping for the rider’s preference, higher-
weight oil should be used. Make changes in oil weight by
If performing seal or bushing service, the same
very small increments.
tools that work on virtually all other 32mm-stanchion,
Extension adjustment post-’02 Marzocchi forks work on these models. For
The Marathon S and Z1 forks have a lever on top of bushing removal, use Marzocchi #R-5118. Manitou
the left leg that is an extension travel adjustment (ETA). bushing-removal tools for the 32mm stanchions are a
In the more clockwise position, the ETA lever causes suitable alternative. For installing bushings, use #R-5116
the fork to stay compressed at the lowest point achieved AA/R for the upper bushings and #R-5117 AA/R for the
while the lever is in this position. Once the lever is turned lower bushings (no alternatives). For seal removal, a slider
counterclockwise, the fork returns to normal operation. protector #R-5124/C is required. For seal installation, a
The user typically operates this lever to change fork per- seal installer #R-5123/C is required. A 10" long (or longer)
formance during climbing conditions. screwdriver, or similar leverage tool, is needed for remov-
ing the seals. A useful tool for seal and bushing service
is a fork clamp of the type made for carrying a bike in a
pickup truck. The QR20 models require a Hurricane Fork
MARZOCCHI FORKS: Up (#1011C) adapter to fit on the fork clamp.
’03 DIRTJUMPER A high-quality shock pump for the air valves is

required, but no special valve adapters are needed.
ABOUT THIS SECTION aluminum fittings. These types of fittings require modi-
fication of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase.
This section specifically covers these 2003 Marzocchi
models: Dirtjumper I, Dirtjumper II, and Dirtjumper III. Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that causes the
For simplicity, the numbers 1, 2, and 3 are used from here internal flats to start a millimeter or more from the end
on, instead of I, II, and III. Models with the same names of the socket. File the socket end so the internal flats start
from previous years are covered in a different section. immediately at the end of the socket. An unmodified deep
If the decals are intact, the model and model year 12mm socket is needed for models with external rebound-
should be evident. In the absence of decals, there are damping adjustment.
several features that can be observed to determine if the A unique ultra-thin wall 12mm socket (Marzocchi #R-
fork is a ’03 Dirtjumper. First, check that the fork is a 5122/C) is required on Z1 models.
single-crown design, is upright (not inverted), and has Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
32mm stanchions. Next, look for the nuts on the bottoms have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this size hole are
of the sliders. Pre-’03 models have the bottom nuts up needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
inside wells in the bottom ends of the sliders, but as of A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
’03, all Dirtjumpers have bottom nuts exposed at the very volume is needed. When adjusting oil level, a caliper can
bottoms of the sliders. For final confirmation that the be used, but a Motion Pro oil-level gauge (#08-0121) is
fork is a ’03 Dirtjumper, examine the stanchion caps; all more convenient.
of the ’03 Dirtjumpers have two air-Preload valves and no
other adjustments on the stanchion caps. In contrast, other OIL CHANGE ONLY
upright ’03 models with 32mm stanchions may have two An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
air valves on top, but they also have an extension-adjust- damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
ment knob (ETA) on top of the left stanchion. (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
In summary, ’03 Dirtjumpers are single-crown and 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–6.
upright forks with exposed bottom nuts, 32mm stan- 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 39–40.
chions, dual air-Preload valves, and no ETA knob. 3. [ ] Repeat steps 3–5 (both sides).
Some models have an external rebound adjuster on 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 41–45.
the bottom of the right side. Variations in procedure that
are due to the presence or absence of the external rebound
adjustment feature are marked either “external adjust only”
or “all except external adjust.”
38 – 118
SPRING CHANGE ONLY 9. [ ] Remove snap-rings in bottoms of stan-

At the time of this writing, no spring kits were listed 10. [ ] Remove aluminum cylinder from bottom end
for any of these forks. These models are adjusted for rider of dampers and remove split rings from tops
weight and style by adjusting air pressure, so there would of piston heads.
be no need for spring changes. 11. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers
on tops of sliders.
TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT Cleaning and inspection

These forks were made in 110mm travel and 130mm
travel versions. The only difference between these versions solution, then dry with compressed air and/
or lint-free paper shop towels.
are the top-out (rebound) springs that are positioned under-
13. [ ] Inspect dropouts and fork crown for cracks.
neath the damper-piston heads. The 110mm version uses 14. [ ] Inspect stanchion tubes and fork column for
spring #5141234/C, and the 130mm version uses spring bends.
#5141231/C. A full fork service is required to change the 15. [ ] Inspect all O-rings for damage.
springs. When the damper assemblies are removed, the caps 16. [ ] Inspect outside of stanchions for wear
on the bottoms of the shafts need to be forcibly removed to marks, nicks, and scratches.
access the springs. Due to the difficult nature of removing 17. [ ] Inspect seals for tears. Oil loss at tops of slid-
these caps, and the fact that it is unnecessary for all other ers indicates oil-pressure seals are worn out.
types of service, the cap removal is not included in the 18. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. Coating will be
following overhaul procedure. partially missing if bushings are worn out.
NOTE: Skip to step 31 if bushings and seals are
not being replaced.
FULL FORK SERVICE Seal and bushing removal
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and NOTE: Install fork clamp in vise, then secure slider
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical assembly in fork clamp.
position with back side facing you for follow- 19. [ ] Pry dust wipers out tops of sliders.
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. 20. [ ] Remove clip inside each slider.
Disassembly 21. [ ] Put slider protector on top of slider, insert
1. [ ] Remove valve caps on tops of stanchions. screwdriver under oil-pressure seal, then pry
Use pump to measure existing pressures, then out oil-pressure seal (both sides).
deflate. left side ____psi right side ____psi The following steps (#22 – #25) utilize a Marzocchi
2. [ ] Use 21mm socket to unthread both stan- bushing-removal tool. If you are already equipped with
chion caps, then remove spacers and a Manitou bushing remover for forks with 32mm stan-
springs. Reinstall right stanchion cap. chions, this is sufficient for removing bushings in these
3. [ ] Tip fork to 45º inverted position, then forks. In this case, refer to one of the Manitou procedures
pump slider and drain oil into empty waste for forks with 32mm stanchions (Sherman models).
receptacle. NOTE: Skip to step 31 if bushings are not being
4. [ ] Stuff stanchion with lint-free paper shop replaced.
towel to prevent further draining. 22. [ ] Install pilot cylinder (small-end first) onto
5. [ ] With fork in vertical position, remove other bushing-extractor shaft, then install 34mm
stanchion cap and repeat step 3. extractor plate (small-face first) onto shaft
6. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _____wt and install retaining bolt.
(stock is 7.5wt). 23. [ ] With extractor plate tipped at angle, install
NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position. plate through bushing, then seat pilot cylin-
7. [ ] External adjust only: Use 2mm hex key der into top of slider tube.
to remove adjuster knob, then use 12mm 24. [ ] With slider held upside down, use slide ham-
socket to remove right bottom nut and 6mm mer to remove bushing.
bit socket to remove left bottom nut. 25. [ ] Repeat steps 23-24 for lower bushing, then
All except external adjust: Use 6mm bit repeat bushing removal for other side.
socket to remove bottom nuts.
NOTE: If nut(s) won’t spin off, press from Seal and bushing replacement
above with spring or plastic pipe. Marzocchi makes a pair of bushing installers for
8. [ ] Stuff holes in bottoms of slider tubes with 30mm-stanchion forks and a pair of bushing installers
shop towels, then pull slider off. for 32mm-stanchion forks. To select the correct pair,
38 – 119
Valve cap Both sides have coil springs

and air-valve stanchion caps
Air for spring preload (shown to left).
stanchion Dampers may be any combination Wiper seal
cap of the three types shown directly
below.
Clip
INTERNAL-
Sleeve ADJUST
DAMPER
Oil-pressure
seal
BOTTOM- NON-
ADJUST C-clip ADJUSTABLE
DAMPER DAMPER Bushing
Valve
Bushing
Split ring
Spring
(partial)
Slider (partial)
Piston shaft
Bottom nut
Stanchion
(partial)
Rebound-
adjuster knob
(bottom-adjust-
types only)
Top-out
Adjuster rod
spring
(valve and
c-clip shown Stop plate
just above rod)
Valve spring
Valve plate
O-ring
Foot cap
O-ring
e-clip
Aluminum
sleeve
Snap ring
38.24 Marzocchi ’03 Dirtjumper forks all have coil springs and air preload but may have several damper configurations.
38 – 120
check the fit of the bushings to the small end of the 45. [ ] Pressurize both sides to pressure recorded
tools. The longer one of the pair is used first (to install in step 1, or to guidelines in TUNING OPTIONS,
the lower bushing), then the shorter one is used for the then install valve caps.
upper bushing.
26. [ ] Install smaller-O.D. bushing onto small end of TUNING OPTIONS
longer 32mm bushing installer. Tap on instal-
lation tool until bushing is fully installed, then Sag adjustment
pull out tool (repeat for other side). Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
27. [ ] Install larger-O.D. bushing onto small end sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
of shorter 32mm bushing installer. Tap on The air pressure adjusts sag on these forks. Marzocchi’s
installation tool until bushing is fully installed, recommended air pressures have proven to be unreliable
then pull out tool (repeat for other side). guidelines. Start at 10psi, then work upward in 5psi incre-
28. [ ] Grease oil-pressure seal and place open-face ments until the desired sag is achieved. Consider 65psi to
first into slider tube, then use seal installer
be the maximum pressure. The following table shows the
recommended sag for each travel range.
with seal installer. SAG SETTINGS
30. [ ] Install dust wiper on top of each seal, then Travel Sag range
seat with seal installer (remove coil-spring 110mm 22–33mm
130mm 26–39mm
Assembly
31. [ ] Install split rings into grooves in damper- Spring rate and oil level
piston heads. The manufacturer provides oil volumes, but not final
32. [ ] Install aluminum sleeves (cupped-face first) oil levels. The volume data provided by the manufacturer
onto damper shafts. has proven to be inconsistent, self contradictory, and
generally unreliable. The recommendations in this sec-
33. [ ] Insert dampers into bottoms of stanchions.
34. [ ] Install snap-rings (flatter-face out) into bot-
tion have been based on actual measurement for some
toms of stanchions. models, but in some cases they are extracted from the
35. [ ] Place coil-spring rings onto each stanchion. manufacturer’s original recommendations.
36. [ ] Install slider fully onto stanchions. The manufacturer no longer provides oil level
37. [ ] External adjust only: Pushing down on information, which is the final way to determine that the
damper from above, engage 12mm hex nut amount of oil is correct. Low or high oil levels create two
into bottom of right slider and 6mm hex- different symptoms. By understanding these symptoms,
socket nut into bottom of left slider. the mechanic can determine if the oil level needs to be
All except external adjust: Pushing down on changed, but it is a trial-and-error method and may require
damper/cartridge from above, engage 6mm
several trips to the shop by the customer.
hex-socket nuts into bottoms of both sliders.
38. [ ] Secure both bottom nuts to 95in-lbs.
When the oil level is too low, there are two symptoms
39. [ ] External adjust only: Install adjusting knob that might occur:
onto bottom of right stanchion, then secure 1. The fork will rebound harshly (sudden increase in
with 2mm hex key. rate of rebound) at the end of the rebound stroke.
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. 2. The fork will bottom too easily at an air pres-
40. [ ] Push slider down fully, then engage coil- sure or coil-spring preload setting that achieves
spring rings to dust wipers. the correct sag.
41. [ ] Slowly add new oil to each stanchion (7.5wt When the oil level is too high, there are two symptoms
is stock). that might occur:
110mm travel 135cc per side
1. The fork is unresponsive to small and medium
130mm travel 140cc per side
impacts. Compression is generally harsh.
and carefully pump slider repeatedly up and 2. The fork never compresses fully under any con-
down 1–2" until bubbles stop rising. ditions, even though the air pressure or coil-spring
43. [ ] Push slider fully down, then install springs preload settings achieve the correct amount of sag.
and spacers on each side. In previous model years, the manufacturer did pro-
44. [ ] With slider fully down, thread in stanchion vide oil level information for similar, but not identical,
caps and secure to 95in-lbs. forks. The oil level is measured when the fork is fully
38 – 121
compressed, and the coil springs (if any) are removed. RockShox spring systems
Any cartridge shafts should also be compressed. From Single coil: Features a single coil spring plus an elas-
the top of the stanchion, the recommended oil levels tomer spring on the left side. The distinguishing charac-
were historically between 40mm and 55mm. Each teristic is a single preload knob on the left side.
2cc added or subtracted should change the height by Dual coil: Features coil springs on both sides. The
approximately 5mm, which is a good increment to work distinguishing characteristic is the presence of a preload
with for tuning purposes. knob on both stanchion caps.
HISTORICAL OIL LEVELS Air Assist: Features a single coil spring with an air
Spring Travel (mm) Depth preload system. The distinguishing characteristic is a single
Coil 150+ 90mm air valve in the left stanchion cap, but this characteristic
Coil 130 50mm is shared by the dual air and air coil spring systems. The
Coil 100–110 45mm presence of air valves on both stanchion caps, a damping
Coil 80 40mm control on the right stanchion cap, or the Duke name in
Air all 40mm raised letters on the sliders rules out the fork as an Air
Assist model.
Rebound-damping adjustment U-Turn: Features a coil spring with external travel
The Dirtjumper 1 has an external rebound adjuster on adjustment. The distinguishing characteristic is an orange
the bottom of the right leg. The Dirtjumper 2 has internal knob on the left stanchion cap.
rebound adjusters inside both legs. The Dirtjumper 3 has Air coil: Features an air spring on the left side with a
no rebound adjustment. For the internal adjustment, a negative coil spring. The distinguishing characteristic of
3mm hex key at least 9" long is needed to reach the adjust- this system is an air valve on the left stanchion cap, found
ment. The hex key comes with the aftermarket forks and in combination with an air valve or damping adjustment
is available from Marzocchi separately, but a part number on the right stanchion, or the Duke name in raised letters
was not available at the time of this writing. If the most on the sliders. RockShox uses the Hydra-Air name for this
counterclockwise adjustment (viewed from above) does spring, but since they use the same name for a damper
not create enough damping for the rider’s preference, system, the Hydra-Air name is not used here.
higher-weight oil should be used. Make changes in oil Dual Air: Features a positive air spring and a negative
weight by very small increments. Change the oil weight air spring in the left leg. The distinguishing characteristic
only in the right side. is an air valve on the bottom of the left leg.
RockShox damper systems
Undamped: Features the absence of any oil-damping
ROCKSHOX OVERVIEW system in the fork. The most distinguishing characteristic

is a right stanchion cap with no knobs or valves, found in
In the 2001–2003 period covered by this manual, combination with a preload knob on the left stanchion
RockShox has utilized six spring systems and six damping cap and no damper knob on the bottom of the right leg.
systems. Although this creates 36 possible combinations, However, this same combination of features can be found
during this period RockShox has only combined these on forks with an open damper with no external adjust-
systems 16 different ways. ment. The final determination may require removing the
Model years and names are an inconsistent way to right stanchion cap to inspect for oil in the stanchion.
identify which combination of spring and damper systems Open damper: Features a damper in the right side
are in the fork. For this reason, the following RockShox that is submerged in an open reservoir of oil. The most
procedures are grouped by spring and damper combina- distinguishing characteristic is a right stanchion cap with
tion, not by model names. The model years and names no knobs or valves, but undamped models share this
of the forks covered by each procedure are listed at the characteristic. With the additional presence of a damper
beginning of each procedure. knob on the bottom of the right slider, an open damper
RockShox bushing and seal service procedures are is a certainty. Without the damper knob on the bottom,
quite consistent between the models, even when the spring the final determination may require removing the right
and damper systems are highly variable. For this reason, stanchion cap to inspect for oil in the stanchion.
there is a separate ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE Hydra-Air: Features a damper in the right side that
section that is referenced in the procedure for each spring is submerged in an open reservoir of oil, and it has a
and damper combination. positive air spring attached to the top of the damper. The
38 – 122
distinguishing characteristic of forks with this damper is Older removal tools have two extractor plates and
that they are one of the only models from the 2001–2003 will not work with Duke and Psylo forks until upgraded
period with an air valve in the right stanchion cap. The with #110-007499-00.
presence of an air valve in the bottom of the left leg or 2. [ ] Measure stanchion diameter, then select
the Duke name in raised letters on the slider rules out the first extractor plate that is longer than stan-
fork having a Hydra-Air damper. chion diameter.
Pure DeLite: Features an enclosed damper in the 3. [ ] Remove retaining bolt. Install extractor plate
(flat-face first) onto extractor bar, with bev-
right leg with an air valve in the right stanchion cap for
eled end of plate on same edge of bar as
adjusting the damping. The distinguishing characteristics small bump (near retaining-bolt hole). Install
of 2001–2003 forks with this damper is the presence of retaining bolt.
air valves in both stanchion caps, found in combination 4. [ ] Install large end of extractor bar horizontally
with the Duke name in raised letters on the sliders, or in vise (use maximum force), with beveled
found in combination with an air valve on the bottom end of extractor plate pointing down.
of the left leg. NOTE: If removing seals (an earlier step) was omit-
Pure: Features an enclosed damper in the right leg ted, steps 5–7 will go very poorly!
with damping knobs on the top (possibly with a remote 5. [ ] Push slider onto end of extractor tool until
control attached) and bottom of the right leg. The dis- plate is past bushing, then pull out on slider
until plate catches on back edge of bushing.
tinguishing characteristic is the presence of the knob on
6. [ ] Tap on top of slider tube with plastic mallet
the right stanchion cap. until bushing comes out.
Cartridge: Features a self-contained, non-serviceable 7. [ ] Repeat steps 4–6 for remaining bushings.
damping cartridge in the left leg. The distinguishing char-
acteristic is a left stanchion cap with no knobs or air valves, Bushing installation
found in combination with air valves on the top and bottom For installing the bushings, a basic tool and several
of the right leg. adapter kits are required. The basic tool has no function-
ality without any of the adapter kits. The specific tools
RockShox Boxxer forks needed are:
The Boxxer forks are fundamentally dual coil, open Universal Bushing Installer #110-006352-00
damper forks, but have some unique characteristics that Judy/Pilot/SID adapter #140-002860-00
justify covering them in their own section. Duke/Psylo adapter #110-006354-00
8. [ ] Install basic tool in vise, with vertical plate
in vise jaw and shaft located beyond end of
vise.
ROCKSHOX BUSHING & 9. [ ] Judy/Pilot/SID only: Place 30mm-O.D.
sleeve on shaft.
SEAL SERVICE Psylo only: Place longer stepped sleeve
(large-diameter-end first) onto shaft.
This section cannot be performed as a stand-alone
procedure, but is performed in the middle of a full fork Duke only: Place longer stepped sleeve
service procedure when it is determined that the seals or (large-diameter-end first) onto shaft.
seals and bushings need to be replaced. In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals are being replaced, but recommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Sus-
not bushings, perform steps 1, 8, and 19–21. pension-specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be
1. [ ] XXX seal models only: Only if replacing compatible, but check labels for references to lithium.
bushings or oil-pressure seals, pry out oil- 10. [ ] Grease smaller-O.D. bushing inside and out,
pressure seals. NOTE: Bushing-installation then place bushing on shaft.
tool required to install either. 11. [ ] Place slider over shaft so front of slider
faces away from vise.
Bushing removal 12. [ ] Insert small end of drift into hole in bottom
The remover tool (#110-006351-00) has several end of slider, then tap drift with plastic mal-
pieces, which are described below with the names that let until slider bottoms (if not using drift, tap
are used in the procedure: carefully on bottom of slider, but do not tap
Long metal bar – “extractor bar” on dropout).
Oblong plate (2, 3, or 4) – “extractor plate” 13. [ ] Repeat steps 10–12 for other lower bushing.
6mm hex-socket bolt – “retaining bolt”
38 – 123
14. [ ] Judy/Pilot/SID only: Remove long sleeve models, the ’01 TT can have its bushings replaced. The
from tool shaft. procedure for bushing replacement is the same as other
Psylo and Duke only: Replace stepped long RockShox models described elsewhere in this chapter.
sleeve on shaft with stepped short sleeve
(large-diameter-end first).
15. [ ] Grease larger-O.D. bushing inside and out, FULL FORK SERVICE
then place bushing on shaft.
16. [ ] Place slider over shaft so front of slider Disassembly
faces away from vise. For a complete clean and lubrication service, the top caps
17. [ ] Insert small end of drift into hole in bottom must be removed, and the spring stack must be removed from
end of slider, then tap drift with plastic mal- the right side. Depending on the model, there can be several
let until slider bottoms. different sequences of coil springs, spacers, and elastomers.
18. [ ] Repeat steps 15–17 for other upper bushing. Bolts on the bottoms of the sliders need to be removed to
Some pre-’02 models have a seal system called Triple separate the sliders from the stanchions. The ’01 TT is sim-
X (XXX). This consists of a wiper seal, a foam ring, and ilar to other Judy forks in that the bolts must be loosened,
then a tight-fitting oil-pressure seal located just above the then tapped in until the heads seat against the sliders, before
upper bushing. In the next step, the bushing installation removing the bolts. Plunger shafts remove out the top of
tool is used to install the oil-pressure seal. the stanchions once the sliders have been separated.
19. [ ] Triple X seal models only: Remove short
sleeve from shaft. Place lower seal (cupped- Cleaning and lubrication
face up) on shaft, then place slider over Clean all parts, then grease the inside of the sliders,
shaft. Use drift to drive slider down fully. the stanchions, and the spring(s).
Repeat on both sides.
20. [ ] Place plastic sleeve on shaft, then place Assembly
dust-wiper seal (cupped-face up) on plastic Drop the plunger shafts into the stanchions, then
sleeve. If new, oil foam ring with 5wt shock slide the slider assembly onto the stanchions. Treat the
oil, then install foam ring on top of seal. bottom bolts with Loctite 242, then install the bolts and
21. [ ] Place slider over shaft and use drift to seat torque them to 60in-lbs.
slider onto wiper seal. Repeat step 20 and Install the spring stack, maintaining the order of parts
this step for other side. NOTE: Ignore steps that were removed.
for greasing bushings, foam-ring installation, Install the stanchion caps, then secure to 40in-lbs.
and wiper-seal installation when returning to
full fork service procedure.
SPRING-RATE CHANGE
The ’02 models can have the spring rate changed. The
ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL light-spring configuration has a simple coil spring, with

nothing inside the coil. If a stiffer spring is desired, an
UNDAMPED FORKS elastomer rod (#110-006171-00) can be installed inside

the coil spring. If the elastomer rod is currently installed,
it can be removed to soften the spring.
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers service of the Judy ’01–’05 TT,
Judy ’01–’03 C80, Judy ’01–’03 C100, Judy ’04–’05 XC,
and the ’03–’05 Pilot C. ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL
Due to the simple nature of these forks, a detailed
service procedure is not included here. Instead, a simple
OPEN-DAMPER FORKS
overview of the service procedures and specifications is
described, on the assumption that the mechanic is some- ABOUT THIS SECTION
what familiar with other Judy and Pilot models. This section covers the 2001 Psylo XC fork.
Only two types of service are possible on these models.
The fork can be disassembled, cleaned, and greased, or the
spring can be removed and modified for tuning purposes. In TOOL REQUIREMENTS
addition to modifying the spring, there is a preload adjuster In addition to common tools, working on this fork
for changing the spring characteristics. Unlike the ’02–’05 requires some relatively unique tools.
38 – 124
Stanchion cap
with preload Stanchion cap
Stanchion
(partial)
Spring
(partial)
Stanchion
(partial)
Rebound damper
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Oil-pressure
Travel-adjust seal
plunger Washer
Bushing
Valve
Bushing
Snap-ring
Crush washer
Shaft guide
Crush-washer retainer
Snap-ring
Bottom bolt
Rebound adjuster
38.25 RockShox single-coil open-damper fork.
38 – 125
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification
FULL FORK SERVICE
of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi- clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats position with back side facing you for follow-
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
at the end of the socket. Spring-stack removal
1. [ ] Counting turns, turn preload adjuster on top of
left leg counterclockwise fully: ______ turns.
have 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are 2. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left cap, then
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. remove spring.
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc Right-leg disassembly
capacity is useful, as well. 3. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan-
chion cap.
For travel adjustment, a 3/8" to 1/2" wide, 12" long
4. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
(shaft length) slotted screwdriver is required. right leg into waste receptacle, then plug
stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY 5. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
(stock is 5wt).
2. [ ] Use long screwdriver to access adjuster in Slider and shaft removal
bottom of stanchion. Full counterclockwise NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
is 125mm travel. Full clockwise is 80mm 6. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound-
travel. There is approximately 1mm of adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then
change for each full revolution. pull knob off.
3. [ ] Install spring (large-end first). 7. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 40–41. toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolts
with plastic mallet until both seat against
SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY slider tubes.

8. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until
Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate the about 6" of stanchion is exposed.
rider’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms too 9. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below
frequently, the existing spring may be for a lighter or less both sliders, move fork to vertical position
aggressive rider. If the fork never bottoms, the spring may and allow oil to drain from legs.
be for a heavier or more aggressive rider. Before chang- 10. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
ing the spring, adjust the preload to its limit to see if the return fork to horizontal position.
frequency of bottoming can be improved. If this still does 11. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring
from left stanchion, then pull plunger-shaft
not make the desired improvement, try changing the travel
assembly out of left stanchion (separate
(internal adjustment). See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of shaft guide from plunger).
this section for spring-rate guidelines. 12. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–2. bottom of right stanchion.
2. [ ] Thoroughly grease new spring, then install 13. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with-
the spring (large-end first). draw damper assembly from right stanchion.
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 40–41. 14. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings.
OIL CHANGE ONLY Cleaning and inspection
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 15. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping and nut for damage. If damaged, remove
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). crush washers from crush-washer retainers.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 3–5. 16. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 38. with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
3. [ ] Repeat step 4. Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 38–41. plastic and rubber parts!
17. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
38 – 126
18. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and 35. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan-
dropouts for bends and cracks. chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
19. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are of left slider and thread into shaft.
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in 36. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
bushings will be partially missing, exposing 37. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
brass flecks or metal base material. rebound damper.
20. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
shaft for scratches or wear marks. Right-leg assembly
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE 38. [ ] Pour 140cc of appropriate oil into top of
procedure. right stanchion.
39. [ ] Thread stanchion cap into right stanchion,
Shaft and slider installation then secure cap to 40in-lbs.
NOTE: Skip to step 24 if bushings were replaced.
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
Left-leg assembly
40. [ ] Thread stanchion cap in and secure to
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- 40in-lbs.
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, 41. [ ] Set preload to setting recorded in step 1.
but check labels for references to lithium.
21. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
The techniques in steps #22 and #23 are for installing TUNING OPTIONS
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
Sag adjustment and spring change
the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The
& SEAL SERVICE steps #19 – #21 (page 38-124).
spring strength and the preload adjustment determine the
22. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
in each slider. sag. A firmer spring and/or a clockwise preload adjust-
23. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider ment creates less sag. A softer spring and/or a counter-
with plastic mallet, then install coil-spring clockwise preload adjustment creates more sag. More sag
rings on seals. provides overall comfort, but reduces the amount of
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. available travel for big hits.
24. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of Check sag by measuring the change in distance from
right stanchion. the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown
25. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flat-face after the rider gets on the bike.
out).
26. [ ] Heavily grease main spring. SAG SETTINGS
27. [ ] Assemble plunger-shaft guide (cup-face first) Travel Sag range
to plunger shaft, then install plunger shaft in 100mm 18–25mm
bottom of left stanchion 125mm 20–31mm
28. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or
pull on right shaft so both shafts are even. ’01 PSYLO XC SPRINGS
29. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi- Rider’s weight Color Part #
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
<100lbs Silver 110-005592-07
chions, stopping when sliders are about half
way up stanchions (shafts should not be 100–120lbs White 110-005592-00
contacting holes in bottoms of sliders). 120–160lbs Yellow 110-005592-01
30. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil in left slider. 160–180lbs Orange 110-005592-02
31. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider 180–200lbs Red 110-005592-03
contacts both shafts.
200–230lbs Green 110-005592-04
32. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
bottom bolts. 230–260lbs Blue 110-005592-05
33. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into >260lbs Black 110-005592-06
right slider and thread into shaft. If correct sag cannot be achieved, or the fork bottoms
34. [ ] Install spring (large-end first) into top of left
too infrequently or too frequently, consider changing the
stanchion.
spring. Use the preceding table to determine the correct
spring for the rider’s weight. Consider a more aggressive
rider to be in a weight range higher than the rider’s actual
38 – 127
weight. Note that when changing the variable travel on A 22mm or 24mm socket is required that is used on
the ’01 model, a spring change may be needed. low-profile plastic fittings. These types of fittings require
modification of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase.
Rebound-damping adjustment Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that causes the
This fork has an external rebound-damping adjustment internal flats to start a millimeter or more from the end
(a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user generally of the socket. File the socket end so the internal flats start
does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the maxi- immediately at the end of the socket.
mum clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used. Make have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are
changes in oil weight by very small increments. needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
volume is needed.
ROCKSHOX DUAL-COIL TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY

OPEN-DAMPER FORKS All of these sub-models, except the C, have internal
travel adjustment. Complete disassembly is required to
change the travel.
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers service of 2001 Judy forks includ-
ing the C, XC, SL, and Race sub-models. SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY
The SL and Race sub-models differ from the other Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate
sub-models in this section by how the damper and plunger the rider’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms too
shafts are removed from the stanchions. Procedures that frequently, the existing spring may be for a lighter or less
are different because of this variation are marked either all aggressive rider. If the fork never bottoms, the spring may
except Race or SL/Race only. The SL and Race models be for a heavier or more aggressive rider. Adjust the preload
are easily distinguished from the others by examining the to its limit to see if the frequency of bottoming can be
stanchion material (aluminum, not steel). improved. If this does not make the desired improvement,
The C sub-model has an extra spacer on top of the try changing the springs (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end
springs. The C sub-model has no externally distinguishing of this section for spring-rate guidelines).
features except for the model decal. Variations in pro- 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3 (both sides).
cedure that are due to this difference are marked either 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 40–43.
all except C or C only.
The C sub-model is different from the other models
because it lacks an external rebound-damping adjustment.
OIL CHANGE ONLY
Differences in procedures due to this variation are marked damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
either all except C or C only. (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
The C sub-model has one more difference. Unlike 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–6.
the other sub-models, it has no travel adjustment. Simply 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 39.
ignore all references to “All-Travel spacers.” 3. [ ] Cap both stanchions.
Most of these models have a feature called “XXX seal,” 4. [ ] Repeat step 4 on both sides.
but some don’t have this design. When the slider is removed, 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 38–44.
the difference is readily apparent. Models with XXX seals
have a foam ring and a black rubber oil-pressure seal below
the grey wiper seal and the top bushing. The non-XXX
FULL FORK SERVICE
design has only the grey wiper seal. Differences due to this clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
variation are marked XXX seal models only. position with back side facing you for follow-
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
38 – 128
Stanchion
cap
Wiper seal
Stanchions
Foam ring
Seal
Upper bushing
Lower bushing
Coil spring
*All-travel
spacer (top
position)
Sliders Spring
retainer
*All-travel Split ring

spacers may
be both in
top position,
both in bot-
tom position, Damper
or split (as
shown).
Lower spring
*All-travel spacer Plunger shaft

(bottom position)
8mm
crush washer
8mm crush washer
Crush washer
retainer Crush washer
retainer
8mm
hollow bolt 8mm bolt
Brass washer
Damping
Homer valve
adjuster
Snap-ring
38.26 Typical RockShox dual-coil open-damper fork.
38 – 129
Spring-stack removal 12. [ ] SL/Race only: Remove shaft guide (Homer

Valve), brass washer, then plastic All-Travel
1. [ ] Turn spring adjuster fully counterclockwise,
counting number of turns on each side. spacers (if any) from bottoms of shafts.
No. of turns on right: ______ 13. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
No. of turns on left: ______ then pry out wiper seals from tops of sliders.
2. [ ] Use 22mm or 24mm socket to unthread left 14. [ ] Remove foam rings (if any) from sliders.
stanchion cap and remove cap (spring and Cleaning and inspection
All-Travel spacer may be attached to cap or 15. [ ] Measure coil springs and replace if length is
may remain in stanchion). unacceptable (too short).
3. [ ] All except C: If spring did not come out Models Unacceptable
with cap, remove spring from stanchion (All- All-Travel models ≤200mm
Travel spacer may be attached to spring, or Other 63/80mm models ≤156mm
may remain in stanchion). All top-out springs ≤22mm
C only: Remove plastic spring spacer, then 16. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
remove spring (All-Travel spacer may be with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
attached to spring or may remain in stan- Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
chion). plastic and rubber parts!
In the next step, the oil is drained into a waste recep- 17. [ ] Inspect wiper seals and damper-shaft split
tacle. It is a good idea to retain a small amount of the ring for nicks or tears.
oil for a viscosity test (described in the beginning of this 18. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom
chapter). If the user has changed the oil to alter damping bolts for damage. If damaged, remove crush
washers from crush-washer retainers.
performance, the test will let you know whether to use the
19. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
manufacturer’s recommended weight or not. deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
4. [ ] Turn fork over to drain oil into waste 20. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
receptacle. NOTE: Be prepared for white All- dropouts for bends and cracks.
Travel spacer(s) and/or black spring retainer 21. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
to fall out with oil. worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
5. [ ] If spring retainer did not fall out, tap on bushings will be partially missing, exposing
slider with mallet until it drops out. brass flecks or metal base material.
6. [ ] Plug stanchion with lint-free paper shop 22. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
towel, then repeat steps 2–5 for right side shaft for scratches or wear marks.
(pump fork gently while draining oil). 23. [ ] XXX seal models only: Only if replacing
Slider and plunger/damper removal bushings or oil-pressure seals, pry out oil-
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. pressure seals. NOTE: Bushing installation
7. [ ] All except C: On bottom of right slider, turn tool required to install either.
rebound-adjuster knob counterclockwise NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
fully, then pull knob off. replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
8. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts in bot- procedure.
toms of sliders 5 full turns, tap on bolt
heads with plastic mallet until heads are
Slider and plunger/damper installation
back against sliders, then remove bolts.
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
9. [ ] With oil-waste receptacle positioned to
catch draining oil, turn fork to vertical ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
position and allow oil to fully drain. NOTE: specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
Pull sliders almost fully off stanchions to but check labels for references to lithium.
facilitate draining. 24. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
10. [ ] Pull slider and boots (if any) off stanchions. The techniques in steps #25 and #26 are for installing
11. [ ] All except SL/Race: Turn fork over and push the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
plunger and damper out tops of stanchions. available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
Remove white plastic All-Travel spacers (if the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
any) from shafts. & SEAL SERVICE procedure.
SL/Race only: Remove snap-rings from bot- 25. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
toms of stanchions and pull plunger and in each slider.
damper out bottoms of stanchions.
38 – 130
26. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with 40. [ ] All except C: Install correct number of
plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings spacers to bottoms (large-diameter ends)
on seals. of springs. Use following guide to create
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. desired amount of travel.
27. [ ] Install All-Travel spacers on damper and 63mm travel: no spacers on springs
plunger shafts with small-diameter ends 80mm travel: one spacer per spring
up. Use following guide to create desired 100mm travel: two spacers on springs
amount of travel. NOTE: There should be no remaining spacers!
63mm travel: two spacers per shaft 41. [ ] Install springs in stanchions (small-ends up).
80mm travel: one spacer per shaft 42. [ ] C only: Install spring spacers (if any) in stan-
100mm travel: no spacers on shafts chions (large-diameter ends up).
NOTE: Any remaining spacers go on bot- 43. [ ] Thread top caps into stanchions and torque
toms of main springs! plastic caps to 40in-lbs.
28. [ ] SL/Race only: Install brass washer, then 44. [ ] Reset spring preload on each top-cap
Homer Valve (cupped-end first) onto damper adjuster.
and plunger shafts.
29. [ ] All except SL/Race: Drop damper shaft (one
with washers under piston) into right stan- TUNING OPTIONS
chion and plunger shaft into other stanchion.
Shafts should protrude from stanchions.
Sag and preload adjustment
SL/Race only: Insert damper shaft (one with Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
washers under piston) into bottom of right sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The
stanchion and plunger-shaft assembly in left spring strength and the preload adjustment determine the
stanchion, then install snap-rings (flatter- sag. A firmer spring and/or a clockwise preload adjust-
face out) into each stanchion. ment creates less sag. A softer spring and/or a counter-
30. [ ] Slide boots (if any) onto stanchions. clockwise preload adjustment creates more sag. More sag
In step #31, the wiper seals are greased. RockShox rec- provides overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- available travel for big hits.
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, Check sag by measuring the change in distance from
but check labels for references to lithium. the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown
31. [ ] Fill pockets in wiper seals with non-lithium after the rider gets on the bike. RockShox recommends
grease. the following amounts of sag, depending on the maximum
32. [ ] Guide slider assembly onto stanchions. travel of the fork.
33. [ ] Replace crush washers on bottom bolts (if
removed). SAG SETTINGS
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. Travel Sag range
34. [ ] All except C: Put drop of Loctite 242 on 63mm 7–15mm
threads of bolts, insert hollow bolt into
80mm 13–20mm
bottom of right slider and other bolt in left
100mm 18–25mm
slider. Then thread bolts into shafts.
C only: Put drop of Loctite 242 on threads Adjust the preload adjusters (up to 5 full turns from
of bolts, insert bolts into bottoms of sliders, loosest to tightest) to achieve sag in the recommended
then thread bolts into shafts. range. Check sag by measuring the change in distance
35. [ ] Secure both bolts to 60in-lbs.
from the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the
36. [ ] All except C: Install adjuster knob into right-
side bolt, turn fully clockwise (1/4 turn range
crown after the rider gets on the bike. If it is not possible
of motion possible), then remove knob and to achieve the recommended sag with the existing springs,
reinstall so indicator points at “+” on decal. then consider changing springs.
37. [ ] Attach boots (if any) to wiper seals. Use the following tables to determine the correct spring
for the rider’s weight. Consider a more aggressive rider to be
Spring-stack installation in a weight range higher than the rider’s actual weight.
38. [ ] Install spring retainers into each stanchion
(short-end up), then inspect whether they
are fully seated.
39. [ ] Pour 5wt oil into each stanchion (30cc in
left side and 130cc in right side).
38 – 131
JUDY SPRING COMBINATIONS TOOL REQUIREMENTS

Rider weight Left spring Right spring In addition to common tools, working on these forks
<100lbs White Yellow requires some relatively unique tools.
100-150lbs Yellow Yellow A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
125-175lbs Yellow Red fittings. These types of fittings require modification of the
150-200lbs Red Red socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typically have
175-225lbs Red Black a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to start a
200-250lbs Black Black millimeter or more from the end of the socket. File the
socket end so the internal flats start immediately at the end
JUDY SPRINGS (EXCEPT C) of the socket.
Spring rate Color Part # A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
Extra Soft White 110-005555-00 volume is needed. An oral syringe for injecting oil in a
Soft Yellow 110-005555-01 small hole is useful, but not mandatory.
Medium Red 110-005555-02 A Schrader valve pump is needed on all models. Some
Firm Black 110-005555-03
models may have a sports-ball type valve that requires an
inflation needle. The needle should have a hole in its end,
JUDY C SPRINGS not the side.
Spring rate Color Part #
Extra Soft
Soft
White
Yellow
110-005548-01
110-005548-02
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY
These forks have internal travel adjustment. Complete
Medium Red 110-005548-03 disassembly is required to change the travel.
Firm Black 110-005548-04
Rebound damping OIL CHANGE ONLY

C only: The damping valve of these model forks There is oil in three locations in these forks. In the
affects rebound only. The valving cannot be adjusted, but right leg, there is oil in the stanchion and slider that
RockShox recommends switching to 15wt oil if rebound simultaneously provides damping and bushing lubrica-
damping is inadequate. tion. There is oil in the left stanchion that lubricates the
All except C: The damping valve of these forks spring and air seal. Finally, there is oil the left slider that
affects rebound only. The valving is adjustable by means lubricates the left bushings. The damping oil in the right
of the knob on the bottom of the right leg, which has a can reasonably be replaced without performing a full fork
range of adjustment of slightly less than 90°. Turn the service. The lubricant in the left stanchion can easily be
knob clockwise to increase rebound damping. RockShox replaced, but there is little reason to do it. To replace the
recommends switching to 15wt oil if rebound damping lubricant in the left slider requires a full fork service.
is insufficient with the knob turned all the way in the An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
clockwise direction. damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
ROCKSHOX AIR-ASSIST 3.
4.
[
[
] Repeat step 6.
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 37.
OPEN-DAMPER FORKS 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 42.
ABOUT THIS SECTION FULL FORK SERVICE

This section covers the 2002 Judy XC and SL models clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
and the 2003 Pilot XC and SL models. position with back side facing you for follow-
The SL versions have adjustable rebound damping, but ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
the XC versions do not. Variations in procedure due to this
difference are marked either SL only or XC only. Air-cap and spring removal
The left stanchion cap contains an air valve that may
be one of two types. It may be a standard Schrader valve,
38 – 132
Valve cap
Stanchion cap
Stacnhion cap
Split ring
Spring
guide Rebound damper
U-cup seal
Spring Plunger
Top-out
spring
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Stanchion
(partial)
Bushing
Bushing
Top-out spring
All-Travel
spacer
(80mm-setting Crush washer
only)
Bottom bolt
Stanchion
(partial)
Rebound adjuster
38.27 Typical RockShox Air-Assist open-damper fork.
38 – 133
or it may be a rubber valve of the type found on sports 13. [ ] Remove U-cup seal from plunger shaft.
balls. If it is the sports-ball type, an inflation needle is NOTE: RockShox requires seal replacement
needed. The type with the hole on the end of the needle, each time it is removed.
rather than the side of the needle, is recommended. 14. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg. Use then pry out wiper seals from tops of sliders.
pump (with lubricated sports needle, if no Cleaning and inspection
Schrader valve) to measure existing air pres- 15. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
sure: ________ psi, then deflate. NOTE: If with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
pressure is low, inflate and use soapy water Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
to check for leaks at valve or at perimeter of plastic and rubber parts!
stanchion cap. 16. [ ] Inspect wiper seals for nicks or tears.
2. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread left stanchion 17. [ ] Inspect damper-shaft split ring for nicks.
cap and remove cap. 18. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom
3. [ ] Remove plastic spring spacer, then remove bolts for damage. If damaged, remove crush
spring (All-Travel spacer may be attached to washers from crush-washer retainers.
spring or may remain in stanchion). 19. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
In the next step, the oil is drained into a waste recep- deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
tacle. It is a good idea to retain a small amount of the 20. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
oil for a viscosity test (described in the beginning of this dropouts for bends and cracks.
chapter). If the user has changed the oil to alter damping 21. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
performance, the test will let you know whether to use the worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
manufacturer’s recommended weight or not. bushings will be partially missing, exposing
4. [ ] Turn fork over to drain oil into waste recep- brass flecks or metal base material.
tacle, then plug stanchion with lint-free shop 22. [ ] Inspect stanchions for scratches or wear
paper towel. NOTE: Be prepared for white marks.
All-Travel spacer to fall out with oil. NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
Right-cap removal procedure.
chion cap and remove cap. Slider and plunger/damper installation
6. [ ] Turn fork over to drain oil into waste recep- NOTE: Skip to step 25 if bushings were replaced.
tacle, pumping fork gently to assist draining. In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
Slider and plunger/damper removal specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
but check labels for references to lithium.
7. [ ] SL only: On bottom of right slider, turn
rebound-adjuster knob counterclockwise
fully, then pull knob off.
The technique in step #24 is for installing the seals
8. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts in bot- without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is avail-
toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolt able, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform the
heads with plastic mallet until heads are wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING &
back against sliders, then remove bolts. SEAL SERVICE procedure.
9. [ ] With oil-waste receptacle positioned to 24. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider
catch draining oil, turn fork to vertical with plastic mallet, then install coil-spring
position and allow oil to fully drain. NOTE: rings on seals.
Pull sliders almost fully off stanchions to NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
facilitate draining. 25. [ ] Install All-Travel spacers on damper and
10. [ ] Pull slider and boots off stanchions. plunger shafts with small-diameter ends
11. [ ] Turn fork over and push damper out top of up. Use following guide to create desired
right stanchion. Remove plastic All-Travel amount of travel.
spacers (if any) from shaft. 80mm travel: one spacer per shaft
12. [ ] Push left-side plunger to top of stanchion, 100mm travel: no spacers on shafts
then rotate spring guide to help U-cup seal NOTE: 100mm travel only, one spacer goes
clear threads in top of stanchion. Remove on bottom of main spring!
plastic All-Travel spacers (if any) from shaft. 26. [ ] Drop damper shaft (one with washers under
piston) into right stanchion. Shaft should
protrude from stanchions.
38 – 134
27. [ ] Install new oiled U-cup seal (cup-face up) 43. [ ] Pressurize left leg to pressure measured
into groove in plunger-shaft head, then care- in step 1, or to following guidelines, then
fully insert plunger assembly into top of left install valve cap.
stanchion.
28. [ ] Slide boots onto stanchions.
PRESSURE GUIDELINES
Rider weight Pressure
In the next step, the wiper seals are greased.
RockShox recommends non-lithium grease for this <140lbs none
purpose. Suspension-specific greases can reasonably 140–160lbs 0–5psi
be assumed to be compatible, but check labels for 160–180lbs 5–10psi
references to lithium. 180–220lbs 10–15psi
29. [ ] Fill pockets in wiper seals with non-lithium >220lbs 15–20psi
grease.
30. [ ] Guide slider assembly onto stanchions, stop-
ping before sliders contact shafts. TUNING OPTIONS
31. [ ] With bottom ends of slider higher than top
ends, inject or pour 30cc of 10wt oil into hole Sag and preload adjustment
in bottom of left slider, then carefully push Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
slider on until shafts contact bottom of sliders. sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The
32. [ ] Replace crush washers on bottom bolts (if air pressure determines the sag. A pressure near the top
removed). of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure
33. [ ] SL only: Put drop of Loctite 242 on threads near the bottom of the recommended range creates more
of bolts, insert hollow bolt into bottom of sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the
right slider and other bolt in left slider, then amount of available travel for big hits.
thread bolts into shafts.
Check sag by measuring the change in distance from
XC only: Put drop of Loctite 242 on threads
the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown
of bolts, insert bolts into bottoms of sliders,
then thread bolts into shafts. after the rider gets on the bike. RockShox recommends
34. [ ] Secure both bolts to 60in-lbs. the following amounts of sag, depending on the maximum
35. [ ] SL only: Install adjuster knob into right-side travel of the fork.
bottom bolt, turn fully clockwise (1/4 turn SAG SETTINGS
of motion possible), then remove knob and
Travel Sag range
reinstall so indicator points at “+” on decal.
36. [ ] Attach boots to wiper seals. 80mm 13–20mm
100mm 18–25mm
Spring-stack installation
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. To change the sag on SL and XC models, change the
37. [ ] Pour 160cc of 5wt oil into right stanchion. air pressure.
38. [ ] Pour 10cc of 5wt oil into left stanchion.
39. [ ] Install correct number of spacers on spring.
Rebound damping
Use following guide to create desired XC only: The damping valve in this fork affects
amount of travel. rebound only. The valving is not intended to be adjusted,
80mm travel: no spacer but RockShox recommends switching the oil in the right
100mm travel: one spacer on spring leg to 15wt oil if rebound damping is inadequate, or 5wt
NOTE: There should be no remaining spac- if damping is too great.
ers if travel is not being changed, but if SL only: The damping valve in this fork affects
converting an 80mm travel fork to 100mm rebound only. The valving is adjustable by means of the
travel, one spacer should be left over. knob on the bottom of the right leg, which has a range
40. [ ] Install spring in left stanchion. of adjustment of slightly less than 90°. Turning the knob
41. [ ] Install spring guide in left stanchion (large-
clockwise increases rebound damping. RockShox recom-
diameter end up).
42. [ ] Thread stanchion cap with air valve into left mends switching the oil in the right to 15wt if rebound
stanchion and other cap into right stanchion, damping is insufficient with the knob turned all the way
then torque caps to 40in-lbs. clockwise, or 5wt if the damping is excessive with the
knob turned fully counterclockwise.
38 – 135
ROCKSHOX U-TURN 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–4.

2. [ ] With fork horizontal, do FULL FORK SERVICE
OPEN-DAMPER FORKS step 9 (on right side only).

3. [ ] Pull U-Turn assembly to remove it.
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 2–3 to new U-Turn
ABOUT THIS SECTION assembly.

This section covers the 2002–2003 Psylo C/XC 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 36.
models and the 2003 Duke C U-Turn and Duke XC 7. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 38–39.
U-Turn models. 8. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 43–44.
The C and XC models are slightly different. Only the
XC has external rebound adjustment. Steps that are unique
for this reason are marked with the notation XC only. OIL CHANGE ONLY
TOOL REQUIREMENTS (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
In addition to common tools, working on these forks 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 5–7.
requires some relatively unique tools. 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 41.
A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile 3. [ ] Repeat step 6.
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 41–42.
of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi-
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
FULL FORK SERVICE
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
at the end of the socket. position with back side facing you for follow-
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
have 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are Spring-stack removal
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. 1. [ ] Turn travel-adjust knob on top of left stan-
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil chion counterclockwise fully.
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc 2. [ ] Use hex key to remove bolt in travel-adjust
capacity is useful as well. knob, then remove knob.
3. [ ] Use magnet to remove detent balls and
springs from left stanchion cap.
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread left cap, but
These models have external travel adjustment. Turn- do not attempt to remove cap.
ing the orange-plastic U-Turn knob on top of the left
stanchion changes the travel. Full counterclockwise is
125mm travel. Full clockwise is 80mm travel. There are chion cap.
approximately 60 clicks of the knob from lock to lock, 6. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
so each 20 clicks creates 15mm of travel change. The ’03 right leg into waste receptacle, then plug
models have travel increments on the left stanchion tube stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
that can be used as an approximate guide. 7. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
(stock is 5wt).
SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY Slider and shaft removal

Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate
8. [ ] XC only: On bottom of right slider, turn
the rider’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms
rebound-adjuster knob counterclockwise
too frequently, the existing spring may be for a lighter
fully, then pull knob off.
or less aggressive rider. If the fork never bottoms, the 9. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
spring may be for a heavier or more aggressive rider. toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolts
Before changing the spring, adjust the travel range to with plastic mallet until both seat against
its limit to see if the frequency of bottoming can be slider tubes.
improved. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this sec-
tion for spring-rate guidelines.
38 – 136
U-Turn knob Stanchion cap
Detent balls and springs
Stanchion cap
(with attached Stanchion
spring and shaft) (partial)
Spring
(partial)
Rebound damper
Stanchion
(partial) Wiper seal
Foam ring
Bushing
Shaft guide Washer
(with top-out
spring) Bushing
Valve
Snap-ring
Snap-ring
Crush washer
Bottom bolt
Rebound adjuster
38.28 RockShox U-Turn open-damper fork.
38 – 137
10. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until 27. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
about 6" of stanchion is exposed. plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
11. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below on seals.
both sliders, move fork to vertical position NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
and allow oil to drain from legs. 28. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of
12. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then right stanchion.
return fork to horizontal position. 29. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter-
13. [ ] Pull shaft/spring assembly out top of left face out).
stanchion. 30. [ ] Heavily grease main spring.
14. [ ] Remove snap-ring from bottom of left stan- 31. [ ] Install top-out-spring assembly in bottom
chion. or left stanchion and retain with snap-ring
15. [ ] Remove top-out-spring assembly from inside (flatter-face out). Then insert shaft/spring
stanchion (if it did not come out with shaft/ assembly into top of left stanchion until shaft
spring assembly). protrudes from bottom of left stanchion.
16. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in 32. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or
bottom of right stanchion. pull on right shaft so both shafts are even.
17. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with- 33. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
draw damper assembly from right stanchion. tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
18. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals, chions, stopping when sliders are about half
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. way up stanchions (shafts should not be
contacting holes in bottoms of sliders).
Cleaning and inspection 34. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil in left slider.
19. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt 35. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
and nut for damage. If damaged, remove contacts both shafts.
crush washers from crush-washer retainers. 36. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
20. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry bottom bolts.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 37. [ ] XC only: Insert bolt with hole through center
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to into right slider and thread into shaft.
plastic and rubber parts! C only: Insert bottom bolt into right slider
21. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, and thread into shaft.
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. 38. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan-
22. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
dropouts for bends and cracks. of left slider and thread into shaft.
23. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are 39. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in 40. [ ] XC only: Insert rebound-damper adjuster
bushings will be partially missing, exposing knob into rebound damper.
brass flecks or metal base material.
24. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper Right-leg assembly
shaft for scratches or wear marks. NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be 41. [ ] Pour 140cc of appropriate oil into top of
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE right stanchion.
procedure. 42. [ ] Thread stanchion cap into right stanchion,
then secure cap to 40in-lbs.
NOTE: Skip to step 28 if bushings were replaced. Left-leg assembly
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec- 43. [ ] Thread in stanchion cap. Torque to 40in-lbs.
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- 44. [ ] Insert detent springs and balls in every third
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, hole in stanchion cap, then install travel-
but check labels for references to lithium. adjuster knob.
The techniques in steps #26 and #27 are for installing
TUNING OPTIONS
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform Sag adjustment and spring change
the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
& SEAL SERVICE procedure. sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
26. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings The spring strength and travel setting determine the sag.
in each slider. A firmer spring and/or a clockwise travel adjustment
38 – 138
(travel decrease) creates less sag. A softer spring and/or The Duke C has no external rebound adjustment.
a counterclockwise travel adjustment (travel increase) cre- Steps that are different for this reason are marked with
ates more sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it the notations Duke C only and all except Duke C.
reduces the amount of available travel for big hits.
the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown TOOL REQUIREMENTS
after the rider gets on the bike. In addition to common tools, working on these forks
SAG SETTINGS A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
Travel Sag range plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification
80mm 13–20mm of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi-
100mm 18–25mm cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
125mm 20–31mm to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket.
PSYLO U-TURN SPRINGS at the end of the socket.
Rider’s weight Rate/color Part # A 10" ratchet extension or other long, narrow shaft
<140lbs Soft/yellow 110-006270-01
is required.
For the ’02 80mm-travel models, internal snap-ring pli-
140-170lbs Medium/red 110-006270-02
ers with straight tips that are able to reach at least 20mm
170-200lbs Firm/blue 110-006270-03
into a stanchion tube are required to service the forks with
>200lbs Extra firm/black 110-006270-04
80mm of travel. Other snap-rings found in all the models
DUKE U-TURN SPRINGS are most easily removed with bent-tip internal snap-ring
Rider’s weight Rate Part #
pliers. The holes in all the snap-rings are 1.2mm diameter.
For measuring the air-spring pressures and for
<140lbs Soft/yellow 110-007371-01
inflating the air springs, a high quality, Schrader-valve
140-170lbs Medium/red 110-007371-02
shock pump is needed.
170-200lbs Firm/blue 110-007371-03
>200lbs Extra firm/black 110-007371-04 volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 15cc
capacity is useful as well.
Only the XC has an external rebound-damping
adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user OIL CHANGE ONLY
generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the
the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used. (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
Make changes in oil weight by very small increments. 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1.
Changing oil weight is the only way to change damp- 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 4–6.
ing on the C sub-model. 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 52.
4. [ ] Repeat step 5.
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL FULL FORK SERVICE

OPEN-DAMPER FORKS NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
ABOUT THIS SECTION ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
This section covers 2002 Duke C/XC/SL models Air-cap removal
and the 2003 Duke C/XC models. 1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
These models have either 80mm or 100mm of travel. measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.
Depending on the amount of travel, slightly different pro- NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
cedures apply. Steps that are different for the 80mm-travel soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at
configuration are marked with the notation 80mm travel perimeter of stanchion cap.
only. This does not apply to the 2003 Duke C and XC.
38 – 139
Valve cap
Stanchion cap
Stanchion cap
(with air valve)
Air piston
Stanchion
(partial)
*80mm Duke only
Rebound damper
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Bumper
Oil-pressure
seal
Negative spring
Bushing
Snap-ring*
Bushing Washer
Valve
Snap-ring
Stanchion
O-ring (partial)
Crush washer
Snap-ring* Bottom bolt

Wavy washer
Shaft guide
Snap-ring
Rebound adjuster
38.29 A RockShox air-coil open-damper fork.
38 – 140
2. [ ] Deflate valve, then use 24mm socket to ’03 only: Use seal pick to withdraw blow-
remove left cap. off valve, flat washer, wavy washer, and
3. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion second flat washer from inside bottom of
(’03 100mm-travel: loose spacer may fall right stanchion.
out, also), then plug stanchion with lint-free 19. [ ] ’02 80mm-travel only: Remove second snap-
paper towel. ring from inside right stanchion.
20. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with-
Right-leg disassembly draw rebound-damper assembly.
4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove right stanchion 21. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from seals, then
cap. pry seals out tops of sliders.
5. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of 22. [ ] Remove foam rings from insides of sliders.
right leg into waste receptacle, then plug
stanchion with lint-free paper towel. Cleaning and inspection
6. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt 23. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom
(stock is 5wt). bolts (or bolt and nut) for damage. If dam-
aged, remove crush washers from crush-
Slider and shaft removal washer retainers.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 24. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
7. [ ] All except Duke C: On bottom of right slider, with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
turn rebound-adjuster knob clockwise fully, Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
then pull knob off. plastic and rubber parts!
8. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on 25. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
bottom of both legs 5 full turns, then tap deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
on bolts with plastic mallet to seat heads NOTE: If positive-spring air-pressure loss was
against sliders. being experienced and there were no leaks at
9. [ ] Remove both bolts (or bolt and nut) com- air cap in step 1, air-piston O-ring is bad.
pletely, then pull slider down about 6". 26. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
10. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below dropouts for bends and cracks.
both sliders, move fork to vertical position 27. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
and allow oil to drain from legs. worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
11. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then bushings will be partially missing, exposing
return fork to horizontal position. brass flecks or metal base material.
12. [ ] While pressing in on white plastic shaft 28. [ ] Inspect stanchions for scratches or wear
guide with 13mm socket, use bent-tip snap- marks.
ring pliers to remove snap-ring from bottom NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
of left stanchion. replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
13. [ ] ’02 only: Tip fork down to remove plastic procedure.
shaft guide from bottom of left stanchion,
then use seal pick to withdraw wavy washer. Shaft and slider installation
’03 only: Tip fork down to remove plastic NOTE: Skip to step 32 if bushings were replaced.
shaft guide from bottom of left stanchion, In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
then use seal pick to withdraw wavy washer ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
and flat washer. specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
14. [ ] ’02 80mm-travel only: Push left shaft in but check labels for references to lithium.
fully, then use snap-ring pliers to remove 29. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
second snap-ring in left leg.
15. [ ] Insert long shaft into top of left stanchion
to push air-piston assembly out bottom of the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
stanchion. available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
16. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft mostly into the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
blow-off valve (yellow plastic) until about & SEAL SERVICE procedure.
1/2" of shaft is exposed. 30. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
17. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring. in each slider.
18. [ ] ’02 only: Use seal pick to withdraw blow-off 31. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider
valve and flat washer from inside bottom of with plastic mallet, then install coil-spring
right stanchion. rings on seals.
38 – 141
32. [ ] Insert piston end of rebound damper into 47. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
bottom of right stanchion. 48. [ ] All except Duke C: Insert rebound-damper
33. [ ] ’02 80mm-travel only: Install snap-ring adjuster knob into rebound damper, then
into right stanchion (flatter-face first). turn knob clockwise fully. Check if indica-
Install flat washer, then install yellow tor on knob is pointing to clockwise end of
blow-off valve (cup-face first, push firmly range arrow. If it is not, then remove and
until snap-ring seats). reinstall knob to achieve this alignment.
’02 100mm-travel only: Install flat washer
and yellow blow-off valve (cup-face first). Left-leg assembly
’03 only: Install flat washer, wavy washer, NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
second flat washer, and yellow blow-off 49. [ ] Pour 3cc of RockShox RedRum into left
valve (cup-face first). stanchion.
34. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter- 50. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to 40in-
face out). lbs.
In the next step, air-piston O-rings are lubricated
with oil. RockShox recommends using their proprietary valve cap.
RedRum product, of course. Other oils may react poorly
with the O-rings, so do not substitute for this oil without POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES
being certain the substitute is suitable. Rider weight Pressure range
35. [ ] Oil air-piston O-ring with RedRum, then care- <140lbs 80–115psi
fully insert piston assembly into bottom of 140–160lbs 115–130psi
left stanchion. 160–180lbs 130–145psi
36. [ ] ’02 80mm-travel only: Install snap-ring into
180–200lbs 145–160psi
left stanchion (flatter-face first), then tempo-
rarily press in shaft guide to check whether >200lbs 180psi
snap-ring is seated fully.
37. [ ] ’02 only: Insert wavy washer into left stan- Right-leg assembly
chion. 52. [ ] 80mm-travel only: Pour 125cc of 5wt oil
’03 only: Insert flat washer and wavy into right leg.
washer into left stanchion. 100mm-travel only: Pour 140cc of 5wt oil
38. [ ] Insert shaft guide (cupped-face first) into left into right leg.
stanchion. 53. [ ] Install right stanchion cap and secure to
39. [ ] While pressing firmly in on shaft guide with 40in-lbs.
socket, install snap-ring (flatter-face out)
into left stanchion.
40. [ ] Pull or push left shaft until it is out fully,
TUNING OPTIONS
then push or pull on right shaft so both Sag adjustment
shafts are even. Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
41. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi- sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan- pressure determines the sag. A pressure in the upper end
chions, stopping when sliders are about half of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in
way up stanchions (shafts should not be the lower end of the recommended range creates more
sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the
42. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into hole in left
slider. amount of available travel for big hits.
43. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider SAG SETTINGS
contacts both shafts. Travel Sag range
80mm 13–20mm
bottom bolts (or bolt and nut).
45. [ ] All except Duke C: Insert bolt with hole 100mm 18–25mm
in center into bottom of right slider and Rebound-damping adjustment
thread into shaft.
All these models, except the Duke C, have an external
Duke C only: Insert bolt into bottom of right
rebound-damping adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the
slider and thread into shaft.
46. [ ] Insert other bolt into left slider and thread right leg). The user generally does this adjustment to suit his
into shaft. or her riding style. If the maximum clockwise adjustment
38 – 142
heavier oil could be used. For the Duke C, changing oil weight
is the only way to change the damping. Make changes in oil
OIL CHANGE ONLY
weight by very small increments. Increasing the oil volume
up to 140cc (80mm-travel models only) also increases the
amount of rebound damping. This also changes the spring 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1.
rate (see following information on spring rate). 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 6–8.
Spring-rate adjustment 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 55.
The spring rate can be made more progressive than the 4. [ ] Repeat step 7.
stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means that as
the fork approaches full compression, it reacts like it has a
stronger spring than it has at the beginning of the compres- FULL FORK SERVICE
sion stroke. This means that the fork will feel comfortable NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
on small bumps, but it will be less likely to compress fully clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
on big hits. To increase the spring rate, increase the RedRum position with back side facing you for follow-
volume in the positive air chamber to as much as 10cc. ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
Air-cap removal
1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.

NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
OPEN-DAMPER FORKS soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at

perimeter of stanchion cap.
2. [ ] Unthread valve cap on bottom of left leg,
then measure existing air pressure: _____ psi.
ABOUT THIS SECTION NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
This section covers all 2002 Duke Race fork only. soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at
3. [ ] Deflate both valves.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left cap.
In addition to common tools, working on these forks 5. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion.
6. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove stanchion cap.
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification 7. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi- right leg into waste receptacle, then plug
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. 8. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately (stock is 5wt).
A 10" ratchet extension or other long, narrow shaft
is required. 9. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound knob
Internal snap-ring pliers with straight tips that are able clockwise fully, then pull knob off.
to reach at least 20mm into a stanchion tube are required. 10. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolt on bottom
Other snap-rings found in all the models are most easily of right slider 5 full turns. Use 10mm wrench
removed with bent-tip internal snap-ring pliers. The holes to unthread nut on bottom of left slider until
in all the snap-rings are 1.2mm diameter. end of nut is even with end of air valve. Tap
For measuring the air-spring pressures and for on bolt and nut with plastic mallet until both
inflating the air springs, a high quality, Schrader-valve seat against slider tubes.
11. [ ] Remove both bolts (or bolt and nut) com-
shock pump is needed.
pletely, then pull slider down about 6".
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil 12. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 15cc both sliders, move fork to vertical position
capacity is useful as well. and allow oil to drain from legs.
13. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
return fork to horizontal position.
38 – 143
Valve cap
Stanchion cap
Stanchion cap
(with air valve)
Rebound damper
Stanchion
(partial)
Air piston
Wiper seal
Stanchion
Foam ring (partial)
Bushing
Snap-ring
Bushing
Negative Washer
air piston
Valve
Snap-ring
Slider (partial) Slider (partial) Snap-ring
Wavy washer
Shaft guide Crush washer

Snap-ring Bottom nut
Valve cap Bottom bolt
Rebound adjuster
38.30 RockShox Dual-Air open-damper fork.
38 – 144
14. [ ] While pressing in on white plastic shaft In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
guide with 13mm socket, use bent-tip snap- ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
ring pliers to remove snap-ring from bottom specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
of left stanchion. but check labels for references to lithium.
15. [ ] Tip fork down to remove plastic shaft guide 31. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
from bottom of left stanchion, then use seal
pick to withdraw wavy washer.
16. [ ] Push left shaft in fully, then use snap-ring
pliers to remove second snap-ring in left leg. available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
17. [ ] Insert long shaft into top of left stanchion the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
to push air-piston assembly out bottom of & SEAL SERVICE procedure.
stanchion. 32. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
18. [ ] Push rebound-damper shaft mostly into in each slider.
blow-off valve (yellow plastic) until about 33. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
1/2" of shaft is exposed. plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
19. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring. on seals.
20. [ ] Use seal pick to withdraw blow-off valve NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
and flat washer from inside bottom of right 34. [ ] Insert piston end of rebound damper into
stanchion. bottom of right stanchion.
21. [ ] Remove second snap-ring from inside right 35. [ ] Install snap-ring into right stanchion (flatter-
stanchion. face first) and install flat washer. Then install
22. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with- yellow blow-off valve (cup-face first, push
draw rebound-damper assembly. firmly in until snap-ring seats).
23. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from seals, then 36. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter-
pry seals out tops of sliders. face out).
24. [ ] Remove foam rings from insides of sliders. In the next step, air-piston O-rings are lubricated
with oil. RockShox recommends using their proprietary
Cleaning and inspection RedRum product, of course. Other oils may react poorly
25. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom
bolts (or bolt and nut) for damage. If dam- with the O-rings, so do not substitute for this oil without
aged, remove crush washers from crush- being certain the substitute is suitable.
washer retainers. 37. [ ] Oil air-piston O-ring and air-sleeve-head O-
26. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry rings with RedRum, then install air-sleeve/
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: shaft-guide assembly (piston-end first) onto
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to bottom of air-piston shaft. Snap-ring and
plastic and rubber parts! wavy washer should be on top of shaft
27. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, guide. Carefully insert piston assembly into
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. bottom of left stanchion, stopping with
NOTE: If positive-spring air-pressure loss snap-ring, wavy washer, and shaft guide
was being experienced and there were no outside of stanchion.
leaks at air cap in step 1, air-piston O-ring is 38. [ ] Install snap-ring into left stanchion (flatter-face
bad. If negative spring was losing pressure, first), then temporarily press in shaft guide to
O-ring in lower head is bad. check whether snap-ring is seated fully.
28. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and 39. [ ] Insert wavy washer into left stanchion.
dropouts for bends and cracks. 40. [ ] Insert shaft guide (cupped-face first) into left
29. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are stanchion.
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in 41. [ ] While pressing firmly in on shaft guide with
bushings will be partially missing, exposing socket, install snap-ring (flatter-face out)
brass flecks or metal base material. into left stanchion.
30. [ ] Inspect stanchions for scratches or wear 42. [ ] Pull or push left shaft until it is out fully,
marks. then push or pull on right shaft so both
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be shafts are even.
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE 43. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
procedure. tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
Shaft and slider installation way up stanchions (shafts should not be
NOTE: Skip to step 34 if bushings were replaced. contacting holes in bottoms of sliders).
44. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt oil into hole in left slider.
38 – 145
45. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in
contacts both shafts. the lower end of the recommended range creates more
46. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the
bottom bolts (or bolt and nut). amount of available travel for big hits.
47. [ ] Insert bolt with hole in center into bottom of
right slider and thread into shaft.
48. [ ] Thread nut onto shaft threads.
Negative-spring adjustment
Using a pressure at the lower end of the recom-
49. [ ] Torque bolt to 60in-lbs and torque nut to
45in-lbs. mended negative-spring air-pressure range makes the
50. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into fork less prone to react to pedaling forces, but this will
rebound damper, then turn knob clockwise compromise comfort. Using a pressure at the higher end
fully. Check if indicator on knob is pointing of the recommended range makes the ride more com-
to clockwise end of range arrow. If it is not, fortable, but this increases the tendency of the fork to
then remove and reinstall knob to achieve compress in response to pedaling forces.
this alignment.
Left-leg assembly This model has an external rebound-damping adjust-
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user gen-
51. [ ] Pour 3cc of RockShox RedRum into left side. erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If
52. [ ] Install left cap and secure to 40in-lbs.
the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough
sure, or to following guidelines, then install damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be
valve cap. used. Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
Increasing the oil volume to 140cc also increases the amount
POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES of rebound damping. This also changes the spring rate (see
Rider weight Pressure range following information on spring rate).
<140lbs 80–115psi
140–160lbs 115–130psi
Spring-rate adjustment
The spring rate can be made more progressive than
160–180lbs 130–145psi
the stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means
180–200lbs 145–160psi
that as the fork approaches full compression, it reacts
>200lbs 180psi
like it has a stronger spring than it has at the beginning
54. [ ] Inflate negative spring to 105% of pressure of the compression stroke. This means that the fork will
recorded in step 1, or to following guide- feel comfortable on small bumps, but it will be less likely
lines, then install valve cap. to compress fully on big hits. To increase the spring rate,
NEGATIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES increase the RedRum volume in the positive air chamber
Rider weight Pressure range to as much as 10cc.
<140lbs 60–115psi
140–160lbs 95–130psi
160–180lbs
180–200lbs
110–145psi
125–160psi
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL
>200lbs 160–180psi HYDRA-AIR FORKS
Right-leg assembly
55. [ ] Pour 125cc of 5wt oil into right leg. ABOUT THIS SECTION
56. [ ] Install right stanchion cap and secure to This section covers the 2001 SID XC and 100 models
40in-lbs. and the 2003 Pilot Race.
TUNING OPTIONS TOOL REQUIREMENTS

Sag adjustment In addition to common tools, working on these forks
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider requires some relatively unique tools.
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. A 22mm or 24mm socket is required that is used on
The recommended sag for this model is 13–20mm. Air low-profile fittings. These types of fittings require mod-
pressure determines the sag. A pressure in the upper end ification of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase.
38 – 146
Valve cap Valve cap
Stanchion cap Stanchion cap
Air piston
Air piston
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Flat washer
Wavy washer
Valve
Circlip
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Rebound damper
Oil-pressure
seal
Plate
Bushing
Bushing
Negative spring
Crush washer
Crush-washer retainer Top-out spring
Bottom bolt All-Travel spacer

(XC Only)
Rebound adjuster
38.31 ’01 RockShox SID100 or SID XC air-coil Hydra-Air fork.
38 – 147
Sockets typically have a bevel in the end that causes the 4. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
internal flats to start a millimeter or more from the end plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
of the socket. File the socket end so the internal flats start Right-leg disassembly
immediately at the end of the socket. 5. [ ] Use 22mm or 24mm socket to unthread
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil right stanchion cap.
volume is needed. As oil needs to be installed through a 6. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
small hole, an oral syringe is useful, but not necessary. plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
OIL CHANGE ONLY NOTE: Put fork in upside-down position.
7. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound-
adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then
pull knob off.
8. [ ] Remove adjuster from bottom of right leg
and compress fork fully.
9. [ ] Unthread bolts at bottoms of slider about
5 turns each, then tap on each with mallet
until each bolt head seats against slider.
10. [ ] Remove both bolts, then plug left bolt hole
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY with cork or wad of paper towel.
In the next step, the oil is drained into a waste recep-
Only the SID XC has a travel-change option. Models
that are configured with 63mm of travel can be converted tacle. It is a good idea to retain a small amount of the
to 80mm by removal of the All-Travel spacer. The 80mm oil for a viscosity test (described in the beginning of this
configuration can be converted to 63mm by adding an chapter). If the user has changed the oil to alter damping
All-Travel spacer (not included with the fork). performance, the test will let you know whether to use the
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–20. manufacturer’s recommended weight or not.
2. [ ] On right-side damper assembly, add All- 11. [ ] With waste receptacle ready to catch sus-
Travel spacer (for 63mm) or remove All- pension oil that will come out right bolt hole,
Travel spacer (for 80mm). turn fork right-side up. Pull slider down until
3. [ ] Unthread piston from shaft, then install it it is almost off stanchions, then push down
on other end of shaft. NOTE: If original ori- on right air piston to facilitate draining (put
entation is lost, 63mm configuration is with plug back in top of stanchion).
piston installed in long end of shaft (end 12. [ ] Pull plug from bolt hole in left slider and use
marked with groove). receptacle to catch lubricant that will drain.
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 22. 13. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 31–52. return fork to horizontal position.
14. [ ] Turn stanchion assembly upside down, then
push shafts into stanchions. (They may pro-
FULL FORK SERVICE trude slightly from Homer valves.)
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and 15. [ ] Put 15mm socket on extension, then press
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical socket firmly against Homer valve while
position with back side facing you for follow- hooking notched end of retaining ring (in end
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. of stanchion) with seal pick to pull retaining
ring out. Repeat for other side.
Air-cap removal 16. [ ] Extract both Homer valves, pull wavy
1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on tops of both legs, then washer(s) out of each stanchion (one or two
measure existing air pressure: ________ psi. may be found), then remove both flat alu-
NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use minum washers.
soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at 17. [ ] Insert bottom bolt back into each shaft, then
perimeter of stanchion cap. pull on bolts to remove shaft assemblies.
2. [ ] Deflate all valves. 18. [ ] Remove bottom bolts from shafts.
3. [ ] Use 22mm or 24mm socket to remove left 19. [ ] Slide negative-spring assembly off left shaft.
stanchion cap. 20. [ ] Remove All-Travel spacer (if any) and top-
out spring assembly from damper, then
remove split ring from damper piston.
38 – 148
21. [ ] Remove coil-spring ring from wiper seals, RedRum product, of course. Other oils may react poorly
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. with the O-rings, so do not substitute for this oil without
Cleaning and inspection being certain the substitute is suitable.
22. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom 33. [ ] Oil right-side air-piston O-ring with RedRum,
bolts for damage. If damaged, remove crush then insert piston end of rebound damper
washers from crush-washer retainers. assembly into bottom of right stanchion.
23. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry 34. [ ] Install flat washer, then wavy washer into
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: bottom of right stanchion (make sure each
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to seats flatly).
plastic and rubber parts! 35. [ ] Install Homer valve (cup-face first) into bot-
24. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, tom of right stanchion.
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. 36. [ ] Place retaining ring on top of Homer valve,
NOTE: If positive-spring air-pressure loss was then place 15mm socket (on extension) on
being experienced and there were no leaks at top of Homer valve.
air caps in step 1, air-piston O-ring(s) are bad. 37. [ ] Use socket and extension to depress Homer
25. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and valve, then tip square end of retaining ring
dropouts for bends and cracks. into groove inside stanchion. Slide socket
26. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are outward to cover seated end of ring, then
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in “rotate” socket around inside of stanchion
bushings will be partially missing, exposing to seat rest of ring.
brass flecks or metal base material. 38. [ ] Install negative spring on bottom of left-
27. [ ] Inspect stanchions for scratches or wear side shaft, then lubricate air-piston O-ring
marks. with RedRum.
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be 39. [ ] Carefully insert piston assembly into bottom
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE of left stanchion, until shaft is even with end
procedure. of stanchion.
40. [ ] Repeat steps 34–37 for left side.
Shaft and slider installation Oil filling and final assembly
In the next step, the bushings are greased.
41. [ ] Pour 5cc of RedRum in each stanchion,
RockShox recommends non-lithium grease for this lubricate stanchion-cap O-rings, then install
purpose. Suspension-specific greases can reasonably caps and secure to 40in-lbs.
be assumed to be compatible, but check labels for 42. [ ] Pressurize left stanchion to 50psi, then pres-
references to lithium. surize right stanchion just until right shaft
28. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders. protrudes equally to left shaft.
The techniques in steps #29 and #30 are for installing NOTE: Put fork in position that puts bottom ends of
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is sliders about 2" higher than tops of stanchions.
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform 43. [ ] Lubricate all four bushings with RedRum.
the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING 44. [ ] Place slider on stanchion assembly until
& SEAL SERVICE procedure. stanchions just engage first set of bushings.
29. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings 45. [ ] Inject 100cc of suspension oil (15wt recom-
in each slider. mended) into hole in end of right slider.
30. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider 46. [ ] Inject 10cc of RedRum into hole in end of
with plastic mallet, then install coil-spring left slider.
rings on seals. 47. [ ] Gently compress slider until shafts reach
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. holes in slider.
31. [ ] Install split ring in rebound-damper piston, 48. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
then install top-out spring onto bottom of bottom bolts.
piston (plastic-cap-end down). 49. [ ] Install hollow bolt into right leg and secure
32. [ ] 63mm travel only: Install All-Travel spacer to 60in-lbs, then install damping adjuster.
into bottom end of top-out spring. 50. [ ] Install remaining bolt into left leg and secure
to 60in-lbs.
with oil. RockShox recommends using their proprietary
38 – 149
51. [ ] Inflate each side to 105% of amounts
recorded in step 2 (extra 5% accounts for ROCKSHOX U-TURN
loss into pump when measurements were
taken). NOTE: Due to negative spring, it PURE DELITE FORKS
may be necessary to check pressure in
each side twice.
SID AIR-SPRING PRESSURES
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2003 Duke SL U-Turn fork.
Rider weight Both sides
<120lbs
120–140lbs
30–40psi
40–50psi
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
140–160lbs 50–60psi
160–180lbs 55–65psi
>180lbs 65–75psi
NOTE: To prevent pressure loss, never exceed 100psi! of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi-
52. [ ] Install valve caps in stanchion caps. cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
TUNING OPTIONS File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately
Sag adjustment Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips.
pressure determines the sag. A pressure in the upper end A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc
the lower end of the recommended range creates more capacity is useful as well.
sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the A 7/8" O.D., 13" long wooden dowel or PVC pipe is
amount of available travel for big hits. required (substituting a metal rod is unacceptable).
SAG SETTINGS A high-quality shock pump and a valve tool (for hold-
Travel Sag range ing a valve open) are also required.
63mm 7–15mm
80mm 13–20mm TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY
100mm 18–25mm This fork has an external travel adjustment (orange
knob) on top of the left stanchion cap.
All these models have an external rebound-damping
adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY
user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her rid- Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate
ing style. If the maximum clockwise adjustment does not the rider’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms
create enough damping for the rider’s preference, heavier too frequently, the existing spring may be for a lighter
oil could be used. Make changes in oil weight by very or less aggressive rider. If the fork never bottoms, the
small increments. spring may be for a heavier or more aggressive rider.
Before changing the spring, adjust the travel range to
Spring-rate adjustment its limit to see if the frequency of bottoming can be
The spring rate can be made more progressive than improved. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this sec-
the stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means tion for spring-rate guidelines.
that as the fork approaches full compression, it reacts 1. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–5.
like it has a stronger spring than it has at the beginning 2. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 9 (left side only).
of the compression stroke. This means that the fork will 3. [
] Pull on the U-Turn assembly to remove it.
feel comfortable on small bumps, but it will be less likely 4. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 3–4 to new U-Turn
to compress fully on big hits. To increase the spring rate, assembly.
increase the RedRum volume in the positive air chambers 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 42–43.
to as much as 10cc. 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 50–51.
38 – 150
Valve cap
U-Turn knob
Stanchion cap
(with air valve)
Detent balls and springs
Stanchion cap
(with spring and shaft)
Stanchion
(partial)
Spring
(partial)
Floating piston
Damping cylinder
Wiper seal
Stanchion
(partial) Foam ring
Bushing
Bushing
Shaft guide
(with top-out
spring)
Snap-ring
Rebound
Crush washer damper
Bottom bolt
Wavy washer
Seal head
Rebound adjuster Snap-ring
38.32 RockShox U-Turn Pure DeLite fork.
38 – 151
OIL CHANGE ONLY 15. [ ] Remove snap-ring from bottom of right stan-
chion, then withdraw damper assembly from
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the right stanchion.
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping 16. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, wiggle
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). and pull on aluminum seal head to remove
1. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1. rebound-damper assembly from cylinder
2. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 6–12. (white plastic ring should remain on cylinder).
3. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 15–17. Then drain oil from cylinder and measure vis-
4. [
] Clean inside of cylinder, rebound damper, cosity (15wt is stock).
and seal head. 17. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper, then
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 29–39. remove wavy washer from seal head.
6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 45–53. 18. [ ] Place dowel/pipe upright on bench, place cyl-
inder over dowel/pipe (white-ring-end up), then
FULL FORK SERVICE grasp cylinder firmly and push down to bench
to force floating piston out end of cylinder.
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and 19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings.
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. Cleaning and inspection
20. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt
Spring-stack removal and nut for damage. If damaged, remove
1. [ ] Remove valve cap on right stanchion cap, crush washers from crush-washer retainers.
then deflate valve. 21. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
2. [ ] Turn travel-adjust knob on top of left stan- with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
chion counterclockwise fully. Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
3. [ ] Use hex key to remove bolt in travel-adjust plastic and rubber parts!
knob, then remove knob. 22. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
4. [ ] Use magnet to remove detent balls and deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
springs from left stanchion cap. 23. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
5. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread left cap (5 full dropouts for bends and cracks.
turns), but do not attempt to remove cap. 24. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
Right-leg disassembly worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
bushings will be partially missing, exposing
chion cap, then pull cap out (slight vacuum brass flecks or metal base material.
must be overcome). 25. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper
7. [ ] Pour oil out of right leg into waste receptacle, shaft for scratches or wear marks.
then plug with lint-free paper shop towel. NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
Slider and shaft removal procedure.
8. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn knob counter- Shaft and slider installation
clockwise fully, then pull knob off. NOTE: Skip to step 29 if bushings were replaced.
9. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot- In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
toms of sliders 4 full turns. Tap on bolts with ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
plastic mallet until both seat against slider. specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
10. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until but check labels for references to lithium.
about 6" of stanchion is exposed. 26. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
11. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below The techniques in steps #27 and #28 are for installing
both sliders, move fork to vertical position the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
and allow oil to drain from legs. available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
& SEAL SERVICE procedure.
13. [ ] Pull shaft/spring assembly out top of left
stanchion.
in each slider.
14. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in
28. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
bottom of left stanchion, then retrieve top-out-
plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
spring assembly from bottom of stanchion.
on seals.
38 – 152
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 47. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
29. [ ] Secure dowel/pipe in vertical in bench vise contacts both shafts.
with 135mm of dowel/pipe above vise. 48. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
30. [ ] Lubricate floating piston with shock oil, bottom bolts.
place floating piston on clean bench top 49. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into
(cupped-face down), then press cylinder right slider and thread into shaft.
(white-ring-end up) onto floating piston. 50. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan-
31. [ ] Place cylinder on top of dowel/pipe (white- chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
ring-end up), then press down until cylinder of left slider and thread into shaft.
sits on vise jaws. 51. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
32. [ ] Fill cylinder to 20mm from top with shock 52. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
oil (15wt is stock). rebound damper.
33. [ ] Place wavy washer on seal head, install seal
head (small-end first) onto rebound-damper Stanchion cap assembly
shaft, then seat seal head against stop just NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
below rebound-damper piston. 53. [ ] Secure right stanchion cap to 40in-lbs, then
34. [ ] Holding seal head (not damper shaft), slowly install valve cap.
and carefully work piston and seal head into 54. [ ] While pressing firmly down on slider,
cylinder until O-ring on seal head is fully thread left stanchion cap fully in and
inside cylinder. NOTE: Do not push on shaft! secure to 40in-lbs.
A small amount of oil should flow out or oil 55. [ ] Insert detent springs and balls in every third
level was too low. Inability to press in seal hole in stanchion cap, then install travel-
head fully indicates oil level was too high. adjuster knob.
35. [ ] Install right stanchion cap with just 2 full
turns of engagement, then install valve-core
TUNING OPTIONS
tool on valve to keep valve open. Sag adjustment and spring change
36. [ ] Remove cylinder from dowel/pipe, turn over, Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
then pour 3cc 15wt shock oil (or RedRum) sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
into top end of cylinder.
The spring strength and travel setting determine the sag.
37. [ ] Insert cylinder assembly into bottom end of
A firmer spring and/or a clockwise travel adjustment
right stanchion, then press on seal head (not
shaft) to seat fully in stanchion (cylinder (travel decrease) creates less sag. A softer spring and/or
should snap onto O-ring on bottom end of a counterclockwise travel adjustment (travel increase) cre-
stanchion cap, which should be installed). ates more sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. reduces the amount of available travel for big hits.
38. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter- Check sag by measuring the change in distance from
face out). the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown
39. [ ] Remove valve-tool from right stanchion after the rider gets on the bike.
cap, thread cap in fully, then pressurize More sag provides overall comfort, and it increases the
valve to 50psi (see TUNING OPTIONS for pres-
amount of available travel for big hits.
sure choices).
40. [ ] Install top-out-spring assembly in bottom of SAG SETTINGS
left stanchion. Travel Sag range
41. [ ] Install snap-ring (flatter-face out) into bot- 80mm 13–20mm
tom of left stanchion.
100mm 18–25mm
42. [ ] Heavily grease main spring.
43. [ ] Insert shaft/spring assembly into top of left 125mm 20–31mm
stanchion until shaft protrudes from bottom
of left stanchion.
DUKE U-TURN SPRINGS
44. [ ] Pull both shafts fully out. Rider’s weight Rate Part #
45. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi- <140lbs Soft/yellow 110-007371-01
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan- 140-170lbs Medium/red 110-007371-02
chions, stopping when sliders are about half 170-200lbs Firm/blue 110-007371-03
way up stanchions (shafts should not be
46. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil in both sliders.
38 – 153
Pure Delite air valve 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 5–11.

This fork has an air valve on top of the right leg that
4. [ ] Clean inside of cylinder, rebound damper,
pressurizes the Pure Delite damper. The allowable pressure and seal head.
range is 20–60psi. This pressure simply helps the damp- 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 29.
ing valve work properly and is not intended as a tuning 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 31–39.
device. However, increasing the pressure will reduce sag, 7. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 44–52.
and reducing the pressure will increase sag. Always stay
in the pressure range of 20–60psi.
FULL FORK SERVICE
Rebound-damping adjustment NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
This fork has an external rebound-damping adjustment clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
(a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user generally
does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If the maxi-
mum clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping Air-cap removal
for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used. Make 1. [ ] Remove valve cap on right stanchion cap,
changes in oil weight by very small increments. then deflate valve.
2. [ ] Remove valve cap on top of left leg, then
measure existing air pressure: _________psi
ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL soapy water to check for leaks at valve or
PURE DELITE FORKS 3. [ ] Deflate valve, then use 24mm socket to
remove left cap.
4. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
ABOUT THIS SECTION plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
This section covers the 2003 Duke SL (air) fork. Right-leg disassembly
chion cap, then pull cap out (slight vacuum
TOOL REQUIREMENTS must be overcome).
In addition to common tools, working on these forks 6. [ ] Pour oil out of right leg into waste receptacle,
requires some relatively unique tools. then plug with lint-free paper shop towel.
plastic fittings. This type of fitting requires modification of
the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typically 7. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn knob counter-
have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to start a clockwise fully, then pull knob off.
millimeter or more from the end of the socket. File the socket 8. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
end so the flats start immediately at the end of the socket. toms of sliders 4 full turns. Tap on bolts
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings with plastic mallet until both seat against
have 1.2mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are slider tubes.
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. 9. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil about 6" of stanchion is exposed.
10. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc
both sliders, move fork to vertical position
capacity is useful as well. A 7/8" O.D., 13" long wooden and allow oil to drain from legs.
dowel or PVC pipe is required (substituting a metal rod 11. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
is unacceptable). A high-quality shock pump and a valve return fork to horizontal position.
tool (for holding a valve open) are also required. 12. [ ] While pressing in on white plastic shaft
guide with 13mm socket, use bent-tip snap-
OIL CHANGE ONLY ring pliers to remove snap-ring from bottom

of left stanchion.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 13. [ ] Tip fork down to remove plastic shaft
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping guide from bottom of left stanchion, then
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). use seal pick to withdraw wavy washer
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1. and flat washer.
38 – 154
Valve cap Valve cap

(with air valve) (with air valve)
Air piston
Stanchion
(partial)
Stanchion
(partial)
Floating piston
Wavy washer Damping cylinder

Shaft guide
Snap-ring
Wiper seal
Bumper Foam ring
Bushing
Bushing
Coil negative
spring
Rebound
O-ring Crush washer damper
Bottom bolt
Wavy washer
Seal head
Rebound adjuster Snap-ring
38.33 RockShox air-coil Pure DeLite fork.
38 – 155
14.[ ] Insert long shaft into top of left stanchion 28. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
to push air-piston assembly out bottom of plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
stanchion. on seals.
15. [ ] Remove snap-ring from bottom of right stan- NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
chion, then withdraw damper assembly from 29. [ ] Secure dowel/pipe in vertical in bench vise
right stanchion. with 135mm of dowel/pipe above vise.
16. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, wiggle 30. [ ] Lubricate floating piston with shock oil
and pull on aluminum seal head to remove and place on clean bench top (cupped-face
rebound-damper assembly from cylinder down). Then press cylinder (white-ring-end
(white plastic ring should remain on cylinder). up) onto floating piston.
Then drain oil from cylinder and measure vis- 31. [ ] Place cylinder on top of dowel/pipe (white-
cosity (15wt is stock). ring-end up), then press down until cylinder
17. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper, then sits on vise jaws.
remove wavy washer from seal head. 32. [ ] Fill cylinder to 20mm from top with shock
18. [ ] Place dowel/pipe upright on bench, place cyl- oil (15wt is stock).
inder over dowel/pipe (white-ring-end up), then 33. [ ] Place wavy washer on seal head, install seal
grasp cylinder firmly and push down to bench head (small-end first) onto rebound-damper
to force floating piston out end of cylinder. shaft, then seat seal head against stop just
19. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals, below rebound-damper piston.
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. 34. [ ] Holding seal head (not damper shaft), slowly
and carefully work piston and seal head into
Cleaning and inspection cylinder until O-ring on seal head is fully
20. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt inside cylinder. NOTE: Do not push on shaft!
and nut for damage. If damaged, remove A small amount of oil should flow out or oil
crush washers from crush-washer retainers. level was too low. Inability to press in seal
21. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry head fully indicates oil level was too high.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 35. [ ] Install right stanchion cap with just 2 full
plastic and rubber parts! turns of engagement, then install valve-core
22. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, tool on valve to keep valve open.
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. 36. [ ] Remove cylinder from dowel/pipe. Turn
23. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and over, then pour 3cc 15wt shock oil (or
dropouts for bends and cracks. RedRum) into top end of cylinder.
24. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are 37. [ ] Insert cylinder assembly into bottom end
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in of right stanchion, then press on seal head
bushings will be partially missing, exposing (not shaft) to seat fully in stanchion (cylin-
brass flecks or metal base material. der should snap onto O-ring on bottom end
25. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper of stanchion cap, which should be partially
shaft for scratches or wear marks. installed).
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE 38. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter-
procedure. face out).
Shaft and slider installation 39. [ ] Remove valve-tool from right stanchion
NOTE: Skip to step 29 if bushings were replaced. cap, thread cap in fully, then pressurize
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec- valve to 50psi (see TUNING OPTIONS for pres-
sure choices).
40. [ ] Assemble flat washer, wavy washer, and
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, shaft guide (cupped-face first) to bottom of
but check labels for references to lithium. air-piston shaft.
26. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders. 41. [ ] Lubricate air-piston O-ring with RedRum,
The techniques in steps #27 and #28 are for installing then insert air-spring assembly into bottom
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is of left stanchion.
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform 42. [ ] While pressing firmly in on shaft guide with
the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING socket, install snap-ring (flatter-face out)
& SEAL SERVICE procedure. into left stanchion.
in each slider.
38 – 156
43. [ ] Pull or push left shaft until it is out fully,
then push or pull on right shaft so both
This model has an external rebound-damping adjust-
shafts are even.
44. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user gen-
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan- erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If
chions, stopping when sliders are about half the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough
way up stanchions (shafts should not be damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used.
contacting holes in bottoms of sliders). Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
46. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
contacts both shafts. The spring rate can be made more progressive than the
47. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means that as
bottom bolts. the fork approaches full compression, it reacts like it has a
48. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into stronger spring than it has at the beginning of the compres-
right slider and thread into shaft. sion stroke. This means that the fork will feel comfortable
49. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan- on small bumps, but it will be less likely to compress fully
chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom on big hits. To increase the spring rate, increase the RedRum
of left slider and thread into shaft. volume in the positive air chamber to as much as 10cc.
50. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
51. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
rebound damper.
Pure Delite air valve
This fork has an air valve on top of the right leg that
Stanchion-cap assembly pressurizes the Pure Delite damper. The allowable pressure
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. range is 20–60psi. This pressure simply helps the damping
52. [ ] Secure right stanchion cap to 40in-lbs, then valve work properly and is not intended as a tuning device.
install valve cap. However, increasing the pressure will reduce sag, and reduc-
53. [ ] Pour 3cc of RedRum into left stanchion.
ing the pressure will increase sag. Always stay in the pressure
54. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to
range of 20–60psi.
40in-lbs.
valve cap.
POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR
Rider weight
<140lbs
Pressure range
80–115psi
PURE DELITE FORKS
140–160lbs
160–180lbs
115–130psi
130–145psi
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2003 SID Race fork.
180–200lbs 145–160psi
>200lbs 180psi
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
TUNING OPTIONS In addition to common tools, working on these forks
Sag adjustment A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
pressure determines the sag. A pressure in the upper end
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in
the lower end of the recommended range creates more
Servicing the SID models requires the use of a SID
SAG SETTINGS cartridge-retaining tool (#140-001905-00).
Travel Sag range A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil
80mm 13–20mm volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc
100mm 18–25mm capacity is useful as well.
38 – 157
A 7/8" O.D., 13" long wooden dowel or PVC pipe is Slider and shaft removal
required (substituting a metal rod is unacceptable). NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
A high-quality shock pump and a valve tool (for hold- 8. [ ] Use 10mm wrench to unthread nut on bot-
ing a valve open) are also required. tom of left slider until end of nut is even
with end of air valve. Tap on nut with plas-
tic mallet until it seats against slider tube.
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY 9. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound-
The travel on this fork can be adjusted by changing adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then
internal spacers. pull knob off.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–5. 10. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolt on
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 8–17. bottoms of right slider 4 full turns. Tap
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 43–54. on bolt with plastic mallet until it seats
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 56–60. against slider tube.
11. [ ] Remove bolt, then pull slider down until
about 6" of stanchion is exposed.
OIL CHANGE ONLY 12. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the both sliders, move fork to vertical position
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping and allow oil to drain from legs.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 13. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
1. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 1. return fork to horizontal position.
2. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 6–14. 14. [ ] Pull conical rubber bumpers off both shafts,
3. [
] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 18–22. then push both shafts in until 1/2" shows.
4. [
] Clean inside of cylinder, rebound damper, 15. [ ] Use SID cartridge-retaining tool to turn cap
and seal head. on bottom of left stanchion clockwise until
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 33. threads are fully disengaged.
6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 35–56. 16. [ ] Pull air-spring assembly from bottom of left
stanchion.
17. [ ] Pull bottom air-seal assembly from bottom
FULL FORK SERVICE of air-piston shaft. If changing a 63mm
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and travel setup to 80mm, remove spacer from
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical below air piston.
position with back side facing you for follow- 18. [ ] Use SID cartridge-retaining tool to turn cap
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. on bottom of right stanchion clockwise until
threads are fully disengaged.
Air-cap removal 19. [ ] Withdraw damper assembly from right stan-
1. [ ] Remove valve cap on right stanchion cap, chion.
then deflate valve. 20. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, wiggle
2. [ ] Remove valve cap on top of left leg, then and pull on aluminum seal head to remove
measure existing air pressure: _________psi rebound-damper assembly from cylinder, then
NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use drain oil from cylinder and measure viscosity
soapy water to check for leaks at valve or (15wt is stock).
perimeter of stanchion cap. 21. [ ] Remove flat washer that was between cap
3. [ ] Remove valve cap on bottom of left leg, and seal head, then remove seal head from
then measure existing air pressure: _____psi damper shaft.
NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use 22. [ ] Place dowel/pipe upright on bench, place cyl-
soapy water to check for leaks at valve. inder over dowel/pipe (cupped face of piston
4. [ ] Deflate valves, then use 24mm socket to against dowel/pipe), then grasp cylinder firmly
remove left cap. and push down to bench to force floating pis-
5. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then ton out end of cylinder.
plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel. 23. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
Right-leg disassembly pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings.
6. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan- Cleaning and inspection
chion cap, then pull cap out (slight vacuum 24. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt
must be overcome). and nut for damage. If damaged, remove
7. [ ] Pour oil out of right leg into waste receptacle, crush washers from crush-washer retainers.
then plug with lint-free paper shop towel.
38 – 158
Valve cap Valve cap

(with air valve) (with air valve)
Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Floating piston
Air piston
Damping cylinder
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Bushing
Bushing
Negative
air piston
Washer
Rebound
Slider (partial) Slider (partial) damper
Retaining cap
Bottom-out Crush washer

Washer
bumper
Seal head
10mm nut
Bottom bolt
Retaining cap
Valve cap
Bottom-out
Rebound adjuster bumper
38.34 RockShox Dual-Air Pure DeLite fork.
38 – 159
25. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 39. [ ] Install right stanchion cap with just 2 full
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to turns of engagement, then install valve-core
plastic and rubber parts! tool on valve to keep valve open.
26. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, 40. [ ] Remove cylinder from dowel/pipe, turn over,
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. then pour 3cc 15wt shock oil (or RedRum)
27. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and into top end of cylinder.
dropouts for bends and cracks. 41. [ ] Insert cylinder assembly into bottom end
28. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are of right stanchion, install flat washer into
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in stanchion, then thread bottom stanchion cap
bushings will be partially missing, exposing counterclockwise into stanchion. NOTE: Do
brass flecks or metal base material. not push shaft in or secure cap now!
29. [ ] Inspect stanchions and rebound-damper NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
shaft for scratches or wear marks. 42. [ ] Remove valve tool from right stanchion
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be cap, thread cap in fully, then pressurize
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE valve to 50psi (see TUNING OPTIONS for pres-
procedure. sure choices).
43. [ ] Assemble bottom air-seal assembly (piston-
Shaft and slider installation end first) to air-piston shaft. If converting
NOTE: Skip to step 33 if bushings were replaced. 80mm travel setup to 63mm, snap spacer
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox onto air-piston shaft just below piston.
recommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Sus- 44. [ ] Lubricate air-piston O-ring with RedRum,
pension-specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be then insert air-spring assembly into bottom
compatible, but check labels for references to lithium. of left stanchion.
30. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders. 45. [ ] Press in both shafts until 1/2" of each is
The techniques in steps #31 and #32 are for installing exposed, then use SID cartridge-retaining
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is tool to thread caps in fully (counterclock-
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform wise) and secure caps to 20in-lbs.
46. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push
or pull on right shaft so both shafts are
even. Install conical bottom-out bumper
(large-end first) fully on to each shaft.
in each slider.
47. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
on seals.
33. [ ] Secure dowel/pipe in vertical in bench vise
with 135mm of dowel/pipe above vise.
49. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
34. [ ] Lubricate floating piston with shock oil
contacts both shafts.
and place on clean bench top (cupped-face
down). Then press cylinder onto floating pis-
bottom bolts.
ton.
51. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into
35. [ ] Place cylinder on top of dowel/pipe, then
right slider and thread into shaft.
press down until cylinder sits on vise jaws.
52. [ ] Insert other bottom bolt into bottom of left
36. [ ] Fill cylinder to 20mm from top with shock
slider and thread into shaft.
oil (15wt is stock).
53. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
37. [ ] Install seal head (small-end first) onto rebound-
damper shaft, then seat seal head against stop
rebound damper.
just below rebound-damper piston.
38. [ ] Holding seal head (not damper shaft), slowly Stanchion cap assembly
and carefully work piston and seal head into NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
cylinder, until O-ring on seal head is fully 55. [ ] Secure right stanchion cap to 40in-lbs, then
inside cylinder. NOTE: Do not push on shaft! install valve cap.
A small amount of oil should flow out or oil 56. [ ] Pour 3cc of RedRum into left stanchion.
level was too low. Inability to press in seal 57. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to
head fully indicates oil level was too high. 40in-lbs.
38 – 160
58. [ ] Inflate air piston to 105% of original pres- create enough damping for the rider’s preference, heavier
sure, or to following guidelines, then install oil could be used.
valve cap.
POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES The spring rate can be made more progressive than
Rider weight Pressure range the stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means
<140lbs 80–115psi that as the fork approaches full compression, it reacts
140–160lbs 115–130psi like it has a stronger spring than it has at the beginning
160–180lbs 130–145psi of the compression stroke. This means that the fork will
180–200lbs 145–160psi feel comfortable on small bumps, but it will be less likely
>200lbs 180psi to compress fully on big hits. To increase the spring rate,
59. [ ] Inflate negative spring to 110% of pressure
increase the RedRum volume in the positive air chamber
recorded in step 3 or to following guidelines. to as much as 10cc.
NEGATIVE-SPRING PRESSURE Pure Delite air valve
Rider weight Recreational use Racing use This fork has an air valve on top of the right leg that
<120lbs 70–80psi 40–60psi pressurizes the Pure Delite damper. The allowable pressure
120–140lbs 80–100psi 60–80psi range is 20–60psi. This pressure simply helps the damp-
140–160lbs 100–120psi 80–100psi ing valve work properly and is not intended as a tuning
160–180lbs 120–140psi 100–120psi device. However, increasing the pressure will reduce sag,
>180lbs 140–160psi 120–140psi and reducing the pressure will increase sag. Always stay
in the pressure range of 20–60psi.
60. [ ] Install valve caps to both air valves.
TUNING OPTIONS
Sag adjustment
ROCKSHOX SINGLE-COIL
PURE FORKS
of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in ABOUT THIS SECTION
the lower end of the recommended range creates more This section covers the 2001 Psylo SL model.
sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the This fork came stock with a compression-damper
amount of available travel for big hits. knob on the right stanchion cap. A cable-operated remote
SAG SETTINGS control in place of the knob is an upgrade that may have
Travel Sag range
been done, or it can be done as part of the service for this
fork. Steps that are different due to this variation are marked
80mm 13–20mm
with the notations remote only or all except remote. See
100mm 18–25mm
the ROCKSHOX REMOTE-DAMPER CONTROL INSTALLATION
section if simply converting an existing fork.
mended negative-spring air-pressure range makes the TOOL REQUIREMENTS
fork less prone to react to pedaling forces, but this will In addition to common tools, working on these forks
compromise comfort. Using a pressure at the higher end requires some relatively unique tools.
of the recommended range makes the ride more com- A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
fortable, but this increases the tendency of the fork to plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification
compress in response to pedaling forces. of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi-
Rebound-damping adjustment cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
This model has an external rebound-damping adjust- to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket.
ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately
generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding at the end of the socket.
style. If the maximum clockwise adjustment does not
38 – 161
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings Right-leg disassembly
have 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole size are 3. [ ] All except remote: Use hex key to unthread
needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. bolt in center of compression-damper knob,
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil then remove knob.
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc Remote only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen
capacity is useful as well. A 5"-long piece of 1/4" plastic cable pinch, remove cable, then use 2.5mm
tubing that fits on the tip of the syringe is also required. hex key to remove bolt in center of remote
mechanism and remove remote knob
(remove coil spring from underside remote of
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY remote knob or top of stanchion cap).
This model has internal travel adjustment. Use a 3/8" 4. [ ] All except remote: Use magnet to remove
to 1/2" wide, 12" long (shaft length) slotted screwdriver detent ball and spring from stanchion cap.
Remote only: Use 2mm hex key to loosen
to access the adjuster in the bottom of the stanchion. Full
binder on remote housing stop, then remove
counterclockwise is 125mm travel. Full clockwise is 80mm housing stop.
travel. There is 1mm of change for each full revolution. 5. [ ] Unthread and remove compression-damper
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–2. rod from right stanchion cap (oil may spill)
2. [ ] Upon completing the adjustment, install 6. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan-
spring (large-end first). chion cap, then carefully withdraw damper.
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 59–60. 7. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
8. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt
Springs may be replaced to accommodate the rider’s (stock is 5wt).
weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms too frequently,
the existing spring may be for a lighter or less aggressive Slider and shaft removal
rider. If the fork never bottoms, the spring may be for a NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
heavier or more aggressive rider. Before replacing a spring, 9. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound
adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then
try changing the travel. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end
pull knob off.
of this section for spring-rate guidelines. 10. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolts with
2. [ ] Thoroughly grease new spring, then install
plastic mallet until both seat against sliders.
spring (large-end first) into stanchion.
11. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until
12. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below
OIL CHANGE ONLY both sliders, move fork to vertical position
and allow oil to drain from legs.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the 13. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping return fork to horizontal position.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 14. [ ] Push shaft out top of left stanchion.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–8. 15. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 45–46. bottom of right stanchion.
3. [ ] Repeat step 7. 16. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with-
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 45–48. draw damper assembly from right stanchion.
17. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, pull
FULL FORK SERVICE rebound damper out of cylinder (white plas-
tic ring should remain on cylinder).
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and 19. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper.
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical 20. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
position with back side facing you for follow- pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings.
Spring-stack removal Cleaning and inspection
1. [ ] Counting turns, turn preload adjuster on top of and nut for damage. If damaged, remove
left leg counterclockwise fully: ______ turns. crush washers from crush-washer retainers.
2. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left cap, then
remove spring.
38 – 162
Stanchion cap Compression

(with preload) knob
Detent ball
and spring
Damper
Spring
cylinder
(partial)
Adjuster rod
Stanchion
(partial)
Rebound
damper
Compression
Plunger damper
(with travel Wiper seal
adjuster)
Foam ring
Oil-pressure
seal
Bushing
Bushing
Crush washer Wavy washer

Shaft guide
Seal head
Stanchion
Snap-ring (partial)
Bottom bolt Snap-ring
Rebound adjuster
38.35 RockShox single-coil Pure fork.
38 – 163
22. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry 38. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into holes in
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: both sliders.
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 39. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
plastic and rubber parts! contacts both shafts.
23. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, 40. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. bottom bolts.
24. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and 41. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into bot-
dropouts for bends and cracks. tom of right slider and thread into shaft.
25. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are 42. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan-
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
bushings will be partially missing, exposing of left slider and thread into shaft.
brass flecks or metal base material. 43. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
26. [ ] Inspect stanchions, rebound-damper shaft, 44. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
and air-piston shaft for scratches or wear rebound damper.
marks.
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be Right-leg assembly
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
procedure. 45. [ ] Pour 65cc of appropriate oil into top of
damper cylinder.
Shaft and slider installation 46. [ ] Carefully pump slider repeatedly to clear air
NOTE: Skip to step 30 if bushings were replaced. from oil (no bubbles will be seen rising).
In the next step, the bushings are greased. 47. [ ] Wearing safety glasses to protect eyes
RockShox recommends non-lithium grease for this from spurting oil, slowly insert compression
purpose. Suspension-specific greases can reasonably damper into top end of damper cylinder,
be assumed to be compatible, but check labels for then secure cap to 40in-lbs.
48. [ ] Assemble 5" of 1/4" plastic tubing to end
references to lithium.
of 20cc (or larger) syringe. Remove plunger
from syringe.
The techniques in steps #28 and #29 are for installing 49. [ ] Insert syringe assembly fully into hole in top
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is of compression damper (syringe should be
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform upright and stable).
the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING 50. [ ] Fill syringe to 10cc line, then cover top of
& SEAL SERVICE procedure. syringe with clean, lint-free paper towel.
28. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings 51. [ ] Carefully pump slider up and down,
in each slider. observing whether air bubbles enter syringe
29. [ ] Tap wiper seals into slider with plastic mal- and observing bottom level of oil at bottom
let, then install coil-spring rings on seals. of each down stroke.
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 52. [ ] Stop pumping when no more air bubbles
30. [ ] Install lower oil seal (small-end first) onto are seen and bottom level of oil is no longer
rebound-damper shaft. changing. Slider should be fully down.
31. [ ] Insert piston end of rebound-damper assembly 53. [ ] Carefully withdraw syringe and tubing, being
into white-plastic-ring end of oil cylinder. prepared for some oil overflow.
32. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of 54. [ ] Insert and fully thread in compression-
right stanchion. adjuster rod, being prepared for overflow.
33. [ ] Install snap-ring in stanchion (flat-face out). 55. [ ] With compression-adjuster rod fully clock-
34. [ ] Heavily grease main spring. wise, pull firmly up on slider. If slider moves
35. [ ] Install plunger shaft in left stanchion, then up more than 5–6mm, air is in system
install coil spring (large-end first). Press on (repeat steps with syringe).
spring to help seat plunger so shaft comes 56. [ ] All except remote: Place detent spring and
out bottom of stanchion. bearing in hole in top cap that is closest to 6
36. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or o’clock (viewed from back of fork).
pull on right shaft so both shafts are even. 57. [ ] All except remote: Place compression-
37. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi- adjuster lever on top of top cap with lever
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan- pointing to 6 o’clock, then secure bolt into
chions, stopping when sliders are about half compression lever.
way up stanchions (shafts should not be 58. [ ] All except remote: Set compression lever to
contacting holes in bottoms of sliders). full counterclockwise position.
38 – 164
Left-leg assembly ’01 PSYLO 100–125MM TRAVEL RANGE

59. [ ] Thread stanchion cap in. Torque to 40in-lbs. Rider’s weight Color Part #
60. [ ] Set preload to setting recorded in step 1.
<100lbs Silver 110-005592-07
NOTE: Go to ROCKSHOX REMOTE DAMPER CONTROL IN-
STALLATION if reinstalling remote (page 38-178). 100–120lbs White 110-005592-00
NOTE: Stop here if not installing remote control. 120–160lbs Yellow 110-005592-01
160–180lbs Orange 110-005592-02
TUNING OPTIONS 180–200lbs

200–230lbs
Red
Green
110-005592-03
110-005592-04
Sag adjustment and spring change 230–260lbs Blue 110-005592-05
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider >260lbs Black 110-005592-06
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The
spring strength and the preload adjustment determine the Rebound-damping adjustment
sag. A firmer spring and/or a clockwise preload adjust- All these forks have an external rebound-damping adjust-
ment creates less sag. A softer spring and/or a counter- ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user gen-
clockwise preload adjustment creates more sag. More sag erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If
provides overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough
available travel for big hits. damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used.
Check sag by measuring the change in distance from Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
after the rider gets on the bike. Compression-damping adjustment
Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the These forks have an external compression-damping
rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg). The user
position. Turning the preload adjustment counterclock- generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding
wise increases sag, and turning it clockwise increases it. style. A full clockwise adjustment will lock the fork so it
More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the will not compress in most conditions. A blow-off valve
amount of available travel for big hits. permits the fork to compress in response to a very big
hit even if it is locked out. If the maximum unlocked
SAG SETTINGS clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping
Travel Sag range for the rider’s preference, heavier oil can be used. Make
80mm 13–20mm changes in oil weight by very small increments. Changing
100mm 18–25mm oil weight will simultaneously affect rebound damping,
125mm 20–31mm and to an even greater degree.
If correct sag cannot be achieved, or the fork bottoms
too infrequently or too frequently, consider changing the
spring. Use the following tables to determine the correct
spring for the rider’s weight. Consider a more aggressive rider ROCKSHOX U-TURN
to be in a weight range higher than the rider’s actual weight.
Note that when changing the travel between the 80–100mm
PURE FORKS
range and the 100–125mm range, a spring change may be
needed, even though the rider’s weight has not changed. ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2002–2003 Psylo SL and 2003
’01 PSYLO 80–100MM TRAVEL RANGE Psylo Race models.
Rider’s weight Color Part # The ’03 Psylo Race has a remote (cable-operated)
<100lbs White 110-005592-00 compression-damper control. The other models came
100–120lbs Yellow 110-005592-01 stock with a compression-damper knob on the right
120–160lbs Orange 110-005592-02 stanchion cap. A cable-operated remote control in place
160–180lbs Red 110-005592-03 of the knob is an upgrade that may have been done, or
180–200lbs Green 110-005592-04 it can be done as part of the service for this fork. Steps
200–230lbs Blue 110-005592-05 that are different due to this variation are marked with
>230lbs Black 110-005592-06 the notations remote only or all except remote. See
38 – 165
the ROCKSHOX REMOTE-DAMPER CONTROL INSTALLATION 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 49–50.
section if simply converting an existing fork. 3. [ ] Repeat step 9.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
In addition to common tools, working on these forks FULL FORK SERVICE
requires some relatively unique tools. NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats Spring-stack removal
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. 1. [ ] Turn travel-adjust knob on top of left stan-
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately chion counterclockwise fully.
2. [ ] Use hex key to remove bolt in travel-adjust
knob, then remove knob.
3. [ ] Use magnet to remove detent balls and
have 1.2mm or 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole springs from left stanchion cap.
size are needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread left cap, but
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil do not remove cap.
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc
capacity is useful as well. A 5"-long piece of 1/4" plastic Right-leg disassembly
5. [ ] All except remote: Use hex key to unthread
tubing that fits on the tip of the syringe is also required.
bolt in center of compression-damper knob,
then remove knob.
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY Remote only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen
cable pinch, remove cable, then use 2.5mm
Turning the orange-plastic U-Turn knob on top of the
hex key to remove bolt in center of remote
left stanchion fully counterclockwise creates 125mm of mechanism and remove remote knob
travel. Fully clockwise is 80mm travel. There are approxi- (remove coil spring from underside remote of
mately 60 clicks of the knob from lock to lock, so each remote knob or top of stanchion cap).
20 clicks creates 15mm of travel change. 6. [ ] All except remote: Use magnet to remove
detent ball and spring from right stanchion
SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY cap.

Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate the rid- binder on remote housing stop, then remove
er’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms too frequently, housing stop.
the existing spring may be for a lighter or less aggressive rider. 7. [ ] Unthread and remove compression-damper
If the fork never bottoms, the spring may be for a heavier or rod from right stanchion cap (oil may spill).
more aggressive rider. Before changing the spring, adjust the 8. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan-
travel range to its limit to see if the frequency of bottoming chion cap, then carefully withdraw damper.
9. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
can be improved. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this
section for spring-rate guidelines.
stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–4 first.
2. [ ] With the fork horizontal, do FULL FORK SERVICE
(stock is 5wt).
step 12 on right side only, then pull on U-Turn
assembly to remove it from fork. Slider and shaft removal
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 39. NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 46–47. 11. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound-
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 63–64. adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then pull
knob off.
OIL CHANGE ONLY 12. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolts
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the with plastic mallet until both seat against
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping slider tubes.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 13. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–10. about 6" of stanchion is exposed.
38 – 166
U-Turn knob Compression

knob
Detent balls Detent ball

and springs and spring
Stanchion cap Damper

(with spring cylinder
and shaft)
Adjuster rod
Spring
(partial)
Rebound
damper
Compression
damper
Stanchion Wiper seal

(partial)
Foam ring
Bushing
Shaft guide
(with top-out
spring) Bushing
Snap-ring

Seal head
Stanchion
(partial)
Rebound adjuster
38.36 RockShox U-Turn Pure fork.
38 – 167
14. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below 30. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
both sliders, move fork to vertical position in each slider.
and allow oil to drain from legs. 31. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
15. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
return fork to horizontal position. on seals.
16. [ ] Pull shaft/spring assembly out top of left NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
stanchion. 32. [ ] Install lower oil seal (small-end first) onto
17. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in rebound-damper shaft.
bottom of left stanchion, then retrieve top-out- 33. [ ] Insert piston end of rebound-damper
spring assembly from bottom of stanchion. assembly into white-plastic-ring end of oil
18. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in cylinder.
bottom of right stanchion. 34. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of
19. [ ] Withdraw damper assembly from right stan- right stanchion.
chion. 35. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter-
20. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, pull face out).
rebound damper out of cylinder (white plas- 36. [ ] Heavily grease main spring.
tic ring should remain on cylinder). 37. [ ] Install top-out-spring assembly into stan-
21. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper. chion.
22. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals, 38 [ ] Install snap-ring (flatter-face out) into bot-
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. tom of left stanchion.
39. [ ] Insert shaft/spring assembly into top of left
Cleaning and inspection stanchion until shaft protrudes from bottom
23. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt of left stanchion.
and nut for damage. If damaged, remove 40. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or
crush washers from crush-washer retainers. pull on right shaft so both shafts are even.
24. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry 41. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to chions, stopping when sliders are about half
plastic and rubber parts! way up stanchions (shafts should not be
25. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, contacting holes in bottoms of sliders).
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. 42. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into holes in
26. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and both sliders.
dropouts for bends and cracks. 43. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
27. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are contacts both shafts.
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in 44. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
bushings will be partially missing, exposing bottom bolts.
brass flecks or metal base material. 45. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into bot-
28. [ ] Inspect stanchions, rebound-damper shaft, tom of right slider and thread into shaft.
and air-piston shaft for scratches or wear 46. [ ] While pressing on spring in top of left stan-
marks. chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be of left slider and thread into shaft.
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE 47. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
procedure. 48. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
Shaft and slider installation rebound damper.
NOTE: Skip to step 32 if bushings were replaced. Right-leg assembly
In the next step, the bushings are greased. NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
RockShox recommends non-lithium grease for this 49. [ ] Pour 65cc of appropriate oil into top of
purpose. Suspension-specific greases can reasonably damper cylinder.
be assumed to be compatible, but check labels for 50. [ ] Carefully pump slider repeatedly to clear air
references to lithium. from oil (no bubbles will be seen rising).
29. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders. 51. [ ] Wearing safety glasses to protect eyes
The techniques in steps #30 and #31 are for installing from spurting oil, slowly insert compression
the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is damper into top end of damper cylinder,
available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
38 – 168
52. [ ] Assembly 5" of 1/4" plastic tubing to end SAG SETTINGS
Travel Sag range
from syringe.
53. [ ] Insert syringe assembly fully into hole in top 80mm 13–20mm
of compression damper (syringe should be 100mm 18–25mm
upright and stable). 125mm 20–31mm
54. [ ] Fill syringe to 10cc line, then cover top of
syringe with clean, lint-free paper towel.
If correct sag cannot be achieved, or the fork bot-
55. [ ] Carefully pump slider up and down, toms too infrequently or too frequently, consider changing
observing whether air bubbles enter syringe the travel setting or the spring. Use the following table
and observing bottom level of oil at bottom to determine the correct spring for the rider’s weight.
of each down stroke. Consider a more aggressive rider to be in a weight range
56. [ ] Stop pumping when no more air bubbles higher than the rider’s actual weight.
are seen and bottom level of oil is no longer
changing. Slider should be fully down.
PSYLO U-TURN SPRINGS
57. [ ] Carefully withdraw syringe and tubing, being Rider’s weight Rate/color Part #
prepared for some oil overflow. <140lbs Soft/yellow 110-006270-01
58. [ ] Insert and fully thread in compression- 140-170lbs Medium/red 110-006270-02
adjuster rod, being prepared for overflow. 170–200lbs Firm/blue 110-006270-03
59. [ ] With compression-adjuster rod fully clock-
wise, pull firmly up on slider. If slider moves
up more than 5–6mm, air is in system
(repeat steps with syringe).
60. [ ] All except remote: Place detent spring and These forks have an external rebound-damping adjust-
bearing in hole in top cap that is closest to 6 ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user gen-
o’clock (viewed from back of fork). erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If
61. [ ] All except remote: Place compression- the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough
adjuster lever on top of top cap with lever damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used.
pointing to 6 o’clock, then secure bolt into Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
compression lever.
62. [ ] All except remote: Set compression lever to Compression-damping adjustment
full counterclockwise position. These forks have an external compression-damping
adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg). The user
Left-leg assembly generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding
63. [ ] While pressing down firmly on slider, thread
stanchion cap in and secure to 40in-lbs.
style. A full clockwise adjustment will lock the fork so it
64. [ ] Insert detent springs and balls in every third will not compress in most conditions. A blow-off valve
hole in stanchion cap, then install travel- permits the fork to compress in response to a very big
adjuster knob. hit even if it is locked out. If the maximum unlocked
NOTE: Go to ROCKSHOX REMOTE DAMPER CONTROL IN- clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping
STALLATION if reinstalling remote (page 38-178). for the rider’s preference, heavier oil can be used. Make
NOTE: Stop here if not installing remote control. changes in oil weight by very small increments. Changing
oil weight will simultaneously affect rebound damping,
TUNING OPTIONS and to an even greater degree.
Sag adjustment and spring change

sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. The ROCKSHOX AIR-COIL
spring strength and the travel adjustment determine the sag.
A firmer spring and/or a longer travel adjustment creates PURE FORKS
less sag. A softer spring and/or a shorter travel adjustment
creates more sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it
reduces the amount of available travel for big hits.
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2003 Duke Race 80 and Duke
Race 100 models.
after the rider gets on the bike.
38 – 169
These models came stock with a compression-damper
knob on the right stanchion cap. A cable-operated remote
FULL FORK SERVICE
control in place of the knob is an upgrade that may have clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
been done, or it can be done as part of the service for this position with back side facing you for follow-
fork. Steps that are different due to this variation are marked ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
with the notations remote only or all except remote. See
the ROCKSHOX REMOTE-DAMPER CONTROL INSTALLATION Air-cap removal
1. [ ] Remove valve cap on right stanchion cap,
then deflate valve.
2. [ ] Remove valve cap on top of left leg, then
TOOL REQUIREMENTS measure existing air pressure: _________psi
soapy water to check for leaks at valve or
requires some relatively unique tools. perimeter of stanchion cap.
A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile 3. [ ] Deflate valve, then use 24mm socket to
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification remove left cap.
of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi- 4. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
5. [ ] All except remote: Use hex key to unthread
at the end of the socket. bolt in center of compression-damper knob,
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings then remove knob.
have 1.2mm or 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit this hole Remote only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen
size are needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. cable pinch. Remove cable, then use 2.5mm
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil hex key to remove bolt in center of remote
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc mechanism and remove remote knob
capacity is useful as well. A 5"-long piece of 1/4" plastic (remove coil spring from underside remote of
tubing that fits on the tip of the syringe is also required. remote knob or top of stanchion cap).
6. [ ] All except remote: Use magnet to remove
A high-quality shock pump is required for the air
detent ball and spring from right stanchion
spring. cap.
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY binder on remote housing stop, then remove
housing stop.
These models can be converted between 80mm and
7. [ ] Unthread and remove compression-damper
100mm travel setups by changing the air-piston/negative- rod from right stanchion cap (oil may spill).
spring assembly. 8. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread right stan-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–4. chion cap, then carefully withdraw damper.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 11–19. 9. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 38–50. right leg into waste receptacle, then plug
4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 65–67. stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
OIL CHANGE ONLY (stock is 5wt).
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh the Slider and shaft removal
damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
(see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 11. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound knob
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–2. counterclockwise fully, then pull knob off.
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 5–10. 12. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolts on bot-
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 51–52. toms of sliders 5 full turns. Tap on bolts
4. [ ] Repeat step 9. with plastic mallet until both seat against
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 51–64. slider tubes.
6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 67. 13. [ ] Remove bolts, then pull slider down until
38 – 170
Valve cap
Compression
Stanchion cap knob
(with air valve)
Detent ball
and spring
Damper
cylinder
Stanchion
(partial)
Wavy washer
Adjuster rod
Shaft guide
Air piston Plastic

bushing
Snap-ring
Rebound
damper
Compression
damper
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Bushing
Bushing
Bumper
Negative
coil spring Crush washer Wavy washer
Seal head
Stanchion
(partial)
O-ring
Rebound adjuster
38.37 RockShox air-coil Pure fork.
38 – 171
14. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below The techniques in steps #32 and #33 are for installing
both sliders, move fork to vertical position the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
and allow oil to drain from legs. available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
15. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
16. [ ] While pressing in on white plastic shaft
guide with 13mm socket, use bent-tip snap-
in each slider.
ring pliers to remove snap-ring from bottom
of left stanchion.
17. [ ] Tip fork down to remove plastic shaft
on seals.
guide from bottom of left stanchion.
18.[ ] Use seal pick to withdraw wavy washer
34. [ ] Install lower oil seal (small-end first) onto
and flat washer.
rebound-damper shaft.
19.[ ] Insert long shaft into top of left stanchion
35. [ ] Insert piston end of rebound-damper
to push air-piston assembly out bottom of
assembly into white-plastic-ring end of oil
stanchion.
cylinder.
20. [ ] Use snap-ring pliers to remove snap-ring in
36. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of
bottom of right stanchion.
right stanchion.
21. [ ] Withdraw damper assembly from right stan-
37. [ ] Install snap-ring in right stanchion (flatter-
chion.
face out).
22. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, pull
38. [ ] Assemble flat washer, wavy washer, and
rebound damper out of cylinder (white plas-
shaft guide (cupped-face first) to bottom of
tic ring should remain on cylinder).
air-piston shaft.
23. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper.
39. [ ] Lubricate air-piston O-ring with RedRum.
24. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals,
40. [ ] Insert air-spring assembly into bottom of left
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings.
stanchion.
Cleaning and inspection 41. [ ] While pressing firmly in on shaft guide with
25. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom bolt socket, install snap-ring (flatter-face out)
and nut for damage. If damaged, remove into left stanchion.
crush washers from crush-washer retainers. 42. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or
26. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry pull on right shaft so both shafts are even.
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: 43. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
plastic and rubber parts! chions, stopping when sliders are about half
27. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, way up stanchions (shafts should not be
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. contacting holes in bottoms of sliders).
28. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and 44. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into holes in
dropouts for bends and cracks. both sliders.
29. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are 45. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in contacts both shafts.
bushings will be partially missing, exposing 46. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on
brass flecks or metal base material. bottom bolts.
30. [ ] Inspect stanchions, rebound-damper shaft, 47. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into bot-
and air-piston shaft for scratches or wear tom of right slider and thread into shaft.
marks. 48. [ ] While pressing on piston in top of left stan-
NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be chion, insert other bottom bolt into bottom
replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE of left slider and thread into shaft.
procedure. 49. [ ] Torque bolts to 60in-lbs.
Shaft and slider installation rebound damper.
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec- Right-leg assembly
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
51. [ ] Pour 65cc of appropriate oil into top of
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
damper cylinder.
but check labels for references to lithium. 52. [ ] Carefully pump slider repeatedly to clear air
31. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders. from oil (no bubbles will be seen rising).
38 – 172
53. [ ] Wearing safety glasses to protect eyes
from spurting oil, slowly insert compression
TUNING OPTIONS
damper into top end of damper cylinder, Sag adjustment
then secure cap to 40in-lbs. Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
54. [ ] Assemble 5" of 1/4" plastic tubing to end sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air
from syringe.
55. [ ] Insert syringe assembly fully into hole in top of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in
of compression damper (syringe should be the lower end of the recommended range creates more
upright and stable). sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the
56. [ ] Fill syringe to 10cc line, then cover top of amount of available travel for big hits.
syringe with clean, lint-free paper towel. SAG SETTINGS
57. [ ] Carefully pump slider up and down,
Travel Sag range
observing whether air bubbles enter syringe
and observing bottom level of oil at bottom 80mm 13–20mm
of each down stroke. 100mm 18–25mm
58. [ ] Stop pumping when no more air bubbles
are seen and bottom level of oil is no longer Rebound-damping adjustment
changing. Slider should be fully down. These forks have an external rebound-damping adjust-
59. [ ] Carefully withdraw syringe and tubing, being ment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The user gen-
prepared for some oil overflow. erally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. If
60. [ ] Insert and fully thread in compression-
the maximum clockwise adjustment does not create enough
adjuster rod, being prepared for overflow.
61. [ ] With compression-adjuster rod fully clock-
damping for the rider’s preference, heavier oil could be used.
wise, pull firmly up on slider. If slider moves Make changes in oil weight by very small increments.
up more than 5–6mm, air is in system Compression-damping adjustment
(repeat steps with syringe). These forks have an external compression-damping
62. [ ] All except remote: Place detent spring and
adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg). The user
bearing in hole in top cap that is closest to 6
o’clock (viewed from back of fork). generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding
63. [ ] All except remote: Place compression- style. A full clockwise adjustment will lock the fork so it
adjuster lever on top of top cap with lever will not compress in most conditions. A blow-off valve
pointing to 6 o’clock, then secure bolt into permits the fork to compress in response to a very big
compression lever. hit even if it is locked out. If the maximum unlocked
64. [ ] All except remote: Set compression lever to clockwise adjustment does not create enough damping
full counterclockwise position. for the rider’s preference, heavier oil can be used. Make
Left-leg assembly changes in oil weight by very small increments. Changing
65. [ ] Pour 3cc of RedRum into left stanchion. oil weight will simultaneously affect rebound damping,
66. [ ] Install left stanchion cap and secure to and to an even greater degree.
40in-lbs.
sure, or to following guidelines, then install The spring rate can be made more progressive than the
valve cap. stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means that as
the fork approaches full compression, it reacts like it has a
POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE GUIDELINES stronger spring than it has at the beginning of the compres-
Rider weight Pressure range sion stroke. This means that the fork will feel comfortable
<140lbs 80–115psi on small bumps, but it will be less likely to compress fully
140–160lbs 115–130psi on big hits. To increase the spring rate, increase the RedRum
160–180lbs 130–145psi volume in the positive air chamber to as much as 10cc.
180–200lbs 145–160psi
>200lbs 180psi
STALLATION if reinstalling remote (page 38-178).
NOTE: Stop here if not installing remote control.
38 – 173
ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 12–19.

PURE FORKS 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 67–73.
ABOUT THIS SECTION OIL CHANGE ONLY

This section covers the 2001–2002 Psylo Race, the damping fluid. It might also be done to change the damping
2001–2002 SID SL, the 2002 SID Race, and the 2003 SID (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section).
World Cup and SID Team models. 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–3.
The Psylo and SID models have different systems 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 6–11.
for retaining parts in the bottoms of the stanchions. 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 53–54.
Variations due to these differences are labeled Psylo 4. [ ] Repeat step 10.
only or SID only. 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 53–66.
These models usually came stock with a compression- 6. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 70–73.
damper knob on the right stanchion cap. A cable-operated
remote control in place of the knob is an upgrade that may
have been done, or it can be done as part of the service for this
FULL FORK SERVICE
fork. Steps that are different due to this variation are marked clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical
with the notations remote only or all except remote. See position with back side facing you for follow-
the ROCKSHOX REMOTE-DAMPER CONTROL INSTALLATION ing “right” and “left” references to correspond.
Air-cap removal
1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
TOOL REQUIREMENTS measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.
soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at
requires some relatively unique tools. perimeter of stanchion cap.
A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile 2. [ ] Unthread valve cap on bottom of left leg,
plastic fittings. These types of fittings require modification then measure existing air pressure: _____ psi.
of the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi- NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats soapy water to check for leaks at valve.
to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket. 3. [ ] Deflate valves, then remove valve core in
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately stanchion cap.
at the end of the socket. 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left cap.
Servicing SID models requires the use of a SID 5. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
cartridge-retaining tool (#140-001905-00).
For Psylo service, internal snap-ring pliers are Right-leg disassembly
required. One snap-ring has 1.2mm holes, and another 6. [ ] All except remote: Use hex key to unthread
has 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely fit both these hole sizes bolt in center of compression-damper knob,
are needed. Bent tips are preferable to straight tips. then remove knob.
For measuring the air-spring pressures and for Remote only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen
cable pinch. Remove cable, then use 2.5mm
inflating the air springs, a high quality, Schrader-valve
hex key to remove bolt in center of remote
shock pump is needed. A valve-core tool is needed to
mechanism and remove remote knob
keep air valves open at certain points. (remove coil spring from underside remote of
A metric-calibrated (cc) container for measuring oil remote knob, or top of stanchion cap).
volume is needed, and an oral syringe with at least 20cc 7. [ ] All except remote: Use magnet to remove
capacity is useful as well. A 5"-long piece of 1/4" plastic detent ball and spring from right stanchion
tubing that fits on the tip of the syringe is also required. cap.
binder on remote housing stop, then remove
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY housing stop.
The travel on these forks can be adjusted by changing 8. [ ] Unthread and remove compression-damper
internal spacers. rod from right stanchion cap (oil may spill).
38 – 174
Valve cap
Compression
All-Travel spacer knob
Stanchion cap (80mm only)
(with air valve) Detent ball
Plastic washer and spring
Bumper Damper
cylinder
Stanchion Wavy washer
(partial)
Adjuster rod
Air sleeve
Air cylinder
Rebound
damper
Snap-ring Compression
damper
Wiper seal
Foam ring
Bushing
Air piston
Bushing

Seal head
Stanchion
(partial)
Bottom nut
Valve cover
Rebound adjuster
38.38 RockShox Psylo with Dual-Air spring system and Pure damping.
38 – 175
chion cap, then carefully withdraw damper.
10. [ ] While pumping fork gently, pour oil out of and nut for damage. If damaged, remove
right leg into waste receptacle, then plug crush washers from crush-washer retainers.
stanchion with lint-free paper towel. 27. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry
11. [ ] Measure oil viscosity and record: _______wt with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE:
(stock is 5wt). Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to
Slider and shaft removal plastic and rubber parts!
NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position. 28. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears,
12. [ ] On bottom of right slider, turn rebound- deformation, or nicks and replace as needed.
adjuster knob counterclockwise fully, then NOTE: If positive-spring air-pressure loss
pull knob off. was experienced and there were no leaks at
13. [ ] Use 5mm hex key to unthread bolt on bot- air cap in step 1, air-piston O-ring is bad. If
tom of right slider 5 full turns. Use 10mm negative spring was losing pressure and no
wrench to unthread nut on bottom of left leaks were detected at valve, replace O-rings
slider, until end of nut is even with end of in lower air-seal assembly.
air valve. Tap on bolt and nut with plastic 29. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and
mallet until both seat against slider tubes. dropouts for bends and cracks.
14. [ ] Remove bolt and nut completely, then pull 30. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
slider down until about 6" of stanchion is worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
exposed. bushings will be partially missing, exposing
15. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below brass flecks or metal base material.
both sliders, move fork to vertical position 31. [ ] Inspect stanchions, rebound-damper shaft,
and allow oil to drain from legs. and air-piston shaft for scratches or wear
16. [ ] Pull slider assembly off stanchions, then marks.
return fork to horizontal position. NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
17. [ ] Psylo only: Use bent-tip snap-ring pliers to replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
remove snap-ring from bottom of left stan- procedure.
chion.
SID only: Remove conical bottom-out bum-
per from left shaft, then use SID cartridge-
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox
retaining tool to turn cap on bottom of left
stanchion clockwise until threads are fully
recommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Sus-
disengaged. pension-specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be
18. [ ] Remove air-spring assembly from bottom of compatible, but check labels for references to lithium.
left stanchion. 32. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
19. [ ] Psylo only: Pull air-piston assembly out bot- The techniques in steps #33 and #34 are for installing
tom end of air cylinder (black plastic ring the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
should remain on air cylinder). available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
20. [ ] Pull bottom air-seal assembly off bottom of the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
air-piston shaft. & SEAL SERVICE procedure.
21. [ ] Psylo only: Use snap-ring pliers to remove 33. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
snap-ring in bottom of right stanchion. in each slider.
SID only: Remove conical bottom-out bum- 34. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider
per from right shaft, then use SID cartridge- with plastic mallet, then install coil-spring
retaining tool to turn cap on bottom of right rings on seals.
stanchion clockwise until threads are fully NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
disengaged. Remove cap and washer. 35. [ ] Install lower oil seal (small-end first) onto
22. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, with- rebound-damper shaft.
draw damper assembly from right stanchion. 36. [ ] Psylo only: Insert piston end of rebound-
23. [ ] Watching for additional oil drainage, pull damper assembly into white-plastic-ring end
rebound damper out of cylinder (white plas- of oil cylinder (longer cylinder).
tic ring, if any, should remain on cylinder). SID only: Insert piston end of rebound-
24. [ ] Remove seal head from rebound damper. damper assembly into oil cylinder.
25. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals, 37. [ ] Insert damper assembly into bottom end of
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. right stanchion.
38 – 176
38. [ ] Psylo only: Install round-O.D. snap-ring in 49. [ ] Insert bolt with hole through center into bot-
right stanchion (flatter-face out). tom of right slider and thread into shaft.
SID only: Install washer and lower stanchion 50. [ ] Thread nut onto shaft threads.
cap onto right shaft and into bottom of stan- 51. [ ] Torque bolt to 60in-lbs and torque nut to
chion. Thread cap in counterclockwise and 45in-lbs.
secure to 20in-lbs. Install conical bumper on 52. [ ] Insert rebound-damper adjuster knob into
shaft (large-end first) rebound damper.
39. [ ] Only if changing travel: Change travel spac-
ers (split plastic cylinders) on air-piston shaft Right-leg assembly
to appropriate configuration from following NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
table. Spacers go directly below piston. 53. [ ] Pour 65cc of appropriate oil into top of
damper cylinder.
Travel Spacers
54. [ ] Carefully pump slider repeatedly to clear air
Psylo 80mm Both from oil (no bubbles will be seen rising).
Psylo 100mm 25mm only 55. [ ] Wearing safety glasses to protect eyes
Psylo 105mm 20mm only from spurting oil, slowly insert compression
Psylo 125mm None damper into top end of damper cylinder,
SID 63mm 17mm
56. [ ] Assemble 5" of 1/4" plastic tubing to end
SID 80mm None of 20cc (or larger) syringe. Remove plunger
In the next step, air-piston O-rings are lubricated from syringe.
with oil. RockShox recommends using their proprietary 57. [ ] Insert syringe assembly fully into hole in top
of compression damper (syringe should be
RedRum product, of course. Other oils may react poorly
upright and stable).
with the O-rings, so do not substitute for this oil without 58. [ ] Fill syringe to 10cc line, then cover top of
being certain the substitute is suitable. syringe with clean, lint-free paper towel.
40. [ ] Psylo only: Oil air-piston O-ring with RedRum, 59. [ ] Carefully pump slider up and down,
then carefully insert piston assembly into observing whether air bubbles enter syringe,
black-plastic-ring end of air cylinder. and observing bottom level of oil at bottom
SID only: Oil air-piston O-ring with RedRum, of each down stroke.
then carefully insert piston assembly into 60. [ ] Stop pumping when no more air bubbles
bottom of left stanchion tube. are seen and bottom level of oil is no longer
41. [ ] Psylo only: Oil bottom air-seal-head O-rings changing. Slider should be fully down.
with RedRum, then install seal-end first onto 61. [ ] Carefully withdraw syringe and tubing, being
piston shaft and into end of air cylinder. prepared for some oil overflow.
SID only: Oil bottom air-seal-head O-rings 62. [ ] Insert and fully thread in compression-
with RedRum, then install seal-end first onto adjuster rod, being prepared for overflow.
piston shaft and into end of stanchion. 63. [ ] With compression-adjuster rod fully clock-
42. [ ] Psylo only: Install air-cylinder assembly into wise, pull firmly up on slider. If slider moves
bottom of left stanchion. up more than 5–6mm, air is in system
43. [ ] Psylo only: Install round-I.D. snap-ring into (repeat steps with syringe).
bottom of left stanchion. 64. [ ] All except remote: Place detent spring and
SID only: Thread cap in counterclockwise bearing in hole in top cap that is closest to 6
and secure to 20in-lbs. Install conical bum- o’clock (viewed from back of fork).
per on shaft (large-end first). 65. [ ] All except remote: Place compression-
44. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or adjuster lever on top of top cap with lever
pull on right shaft so both shafts are even. pointing to 6 o’clock, then secure bolt into
45. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi- compression lever.
tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan- 66. [ ] All except remote: Set compression lever to
chions, stopping when sliders are about half full counterclockwise position.
contacting holes in bottoms of sliders). Left-leg assembly
46. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into hole in 67. [ ] Pour 3–5cc of RedRum into left stanchion.
each slider. 68. [ ] Psylo only: Press left stanchion cap into air
47. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until slider cylinder, then carefully engage cap threads.
contacts both shafts. SID only: Engage left stanchion-cap threads
48. [ ] Install new crush washers (if necessary) on into left stanchion.
bottom bolt and nut. 69. [ ] Secure left stanchion cap to 40in-lbs.
38 – 177
70. [ ] Install valve core in stanchion cap.
71. [ ] Inflate positive spring to 110% of pressure
recorded in step 1 or to following guidelines.
mended negative-spring air-pressure range makes the
POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE fork less prone to react to pedaling forces, but this will
Rider weight Pressure range compromise comfort. Using a pressure at the higher end
<120lbs 70–80psi of the recommended range makes the ride more com-
120–140lbs 80–100psi fortable, but this increases the tendency of the fork to
140–160lbs 100–120psi compress in response to pedaling forces.
160–180lbs 120–140psi Rebound-damping adjustment
>180lbs 140–180psi These models have an external rebound-damping
72. [ ] Inflate negative spring to 110% of pressure adjustment (a knob on the bottom of the right leg). The
recorded in step 2 or to following guidelines. user generally does this adjustment to suit his or her rid-
PSYLO NEGATIVE-SPRING PRESSURE ing style. If the maximum clockwise adjustment does not
create enough damping for the rider’s preference, heavier
Rider weight Pressure range
oil could be used. Make changes in oil weight by very
<140lbs 60–115psi
small increments.
140–160lbs 95–130psi
160–180lbs 110–145psi Compression-damping adjustment
180–200lbs 125–160psi These models have an external compression-damping
>200lbs 160–180psi adjustment (a knob on the top of the right leg). The user
SID NEGATIVE-SPRING PRESSURE A full clockwise adjustment will lock the fork so it will not
Rider weight Recreational use Racing use compress in most conditions. A blow-off valve permits
<120lbs 70–80psi 40–60psi the fork to compress in response to a very big hit even
120–140lbs 80–100psi 60–80psi if it is locked out. If the maximum unlocked clockwise
140–160lbs 100–120psi 80–100psi
adjustment does not create enough damping for the rider’s
preference, heavier oil could be used. Make changes in oil
160–180lbs 120–140psi 100–120psi
weight by very small increments. Changing oil weight will
>180lbs 140–160psi 120–140psi
simultaneously affect rebound damping, and to an even
73. [ ] Install valve caps to both air valves. greater degree.
STALLATION if reinstalling remote (page 38-178).
NOTE: Stop here if not installing remote control.
The spring rate can be made more progressive than
the stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means
that as the fork approaches full compression, it reacts
TUNING OPTIONS like it has a stronger spring than it has at the beginning
of the compression stroke. This means that the fork will
Sag adjustment feel comfortable on small bumps, but it will be less likely
to compress fully on big hits. To increase the spring rate,
increase the RedRum volume in the positive air chamber
to as much as 10cc.
of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in
the lower end of the recommended range creates more
SAG SETTINGS
ROCKSHOX REMOTE
Travel Sag range DAMPER-CONTROL
63mm
80mm
10–16mm
13–20mm
INSTALLATION
This section is used for reinstalling, or converting to,
100mm 18–25mm
a remote control (lever on handlebar) on any RockShox
125mm 20–31mm
fork with the Pure damping system. The Pure damping
38 – 178
system is readily identified by either the presence of an
adjusting knob on top of the right leg or the presence of ROCKSHOX DUAL-AIR
a remote control on the handlebar that is connected by
cable to the top of the right leg.
CARTRIDGE FORKS
1. [ ] Converting existing knob only: Unthread bolt
from center of compression-damper knob.
Remove knob, then remove detent ball and
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers the 2001 RockShox SID Race.
spring (save bolt).
2. [ ] Turn compression-damper rod fully clock-
wise with fingers. Check that lockout func-
tion is working properly before proceeding.
TOOL REQUIREMENTS
3. [ ] Install remote housing stop so timing mark
(small protrusion on top face) is at 1:00
(rider’s perspective), but do not secure. A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
4. [ ] Place remote knob on damper rod so that fittings. These types of fittings require modification of the
bump at cable-pinch screw is at 7:00–8:00 socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typically have
(do not turn rod). a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to start a
5. [ ] Holding knob stationary, rotate housing stop millimeter or more from the end of the socket. File the
counterclockwise to point it contacts bump socket end so the internal flats start immediately at the end
on remote knob, then secure binder bolt on of the socket.
housing stop. A 10" ratchet extension or other long, narrow shaft
6. [ ] Rotate knob counterclockwise until cable- is required. Servicing this SID model requires the use of
pinch screw is at timing mark on housing
a SID cartridge-retaining tool (#140-001905-00). An oral
stop (approximately 12:00).
7. [ ] Remove knob, grease spring coil generously, syringe with at least 20cc capacity is useful as well.
then install short leg of spring coil into small
hole in knob (opposite cable-pinch screw).
8. [ ] Reinstall knob with long end of spring in
CARTRIDGE CHANGE ONLY
whichever detent-spring hole positions
The damping cartridge is non-serviceable. If oil is
cable-set screw as close to 12:00 as pos- leaking, the cartridge needs replacement.
sible, then install bolt through center of knob 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–10.
and gently secure bolt. 2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 14–15.
9. [ ] With remote-contol lever fully released and 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE step 17.
in-line cable-adjusting barrel fully shortened, 4. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 27–28.
route wire into housing stop, around remote- 5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 31–44.
knob, and into cable-pinch.
10. [ ] Check that cable-housing ends are fully
seated, then rotate remote knob 60º clock-
FULL FORK SERVICE
wise from 12:00 position. Pull slack from
wire, then secure cable-pinch screw with
1.5mm hex key.
11. [ ] Operate remote lever to check that lockout
function works. If not, check for slack cable Air-cap removal
and remove slack with adjusting barrel. If 1. [ ] Unthread valve cap on top of left leg, then
lockout is not functioning but cable has no measure existing air pressure: ________ psi.
slack, loosen housing-stop binder bolt, then NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
set stop a few degrees further clockwise soapy water to check for leaks at valve or at
and recheck lockout function. perimeter of stanchion cap.
12. [ ] When lockout function has been verified, 2. [ ] Unthread valve cap on bottom of left leg,
check that remote knob releases 3/8 of a then measure existing air pressure: ________
turn (135º) counterclockwise from lockout psi. NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate and use
position when release button is pushed. If soapy water to check for leaks at valve.
not, check for tight cable. If cable is not too 3. [ ] Deflate all valves.
tight, repeat from step 8, but with spring 4. [ ] Use 24mm socket to remove left cap.
positioned one hole more counterclockwise 5. [ ] Pour air-piston lubricant out of stanchion, then
in stanchion cap. plug stanchion with lint-free paper towel.
38 – 179
Slider and shaft removal 22. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
worn out, cream-colored plastic coating in
6. [ ] Use 8mm wrench to unthread nut on bottom bushings will be partially missing, exposing
of right slider, then turn nut around and use brass flecks or metal base material.
nut as a drift to tap shaft into slider. 23. [ ] Inspect stanchions, rebound-damper shaft,
7. [ ] Use 10mm wrench to unthread nut on bot- and air-piston shaft for scratches or wear
tom of left slider until end of nut is even marks.
with end of air valve. Tap on nut with plas- NOTE: If oil-pressure seals or bushings need to be
tic mallet until it seats against slider tube. replaced, go to ROCKSHOX BUSHING & SEAL SERVICE
8. [ ] Remove nuts completely, then pull slider procedure.
down until about 6" of stanchion is exposed. Shaft and slider installation
9. [ ] With waste receptacle positioned below NOTE: Skip to step 27 if bushings were replaced.
both sliders, move fork to vertical position In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
and allow oil to drain from legs.
return fork to horizontal position. specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible,
11. [ ] Remove conical bottom-out bumper from but check labels for references to lithium.
left shaft, then use SID cartridge-retaining 24. [ ] Grease bushings inside sliders.
tool to turn cap on bottom of left stanchion The techniques in steps #25 and #26 are for installing
clockwise until threads are fully disengaged. the seals without a bushing-installation tool. If the tool is
12. [ ] Remove air-spring assembly from bottom of available, it is preferable to use it, in which case perform
left stanchion. the wiper-seal installation steps in the ROCKSHOX BUSHING
13. [ ] Pull bottom air-seal assembly off bottom of & SEAL SERVICE procedure.
air-piston shaft. 25. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings
14. [ ] Remove conical bottom-out bumper from in each slider.
right shaft, then use SID cartridge-retaining 26. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with
tool to turn cap on bottom of right stanchion plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings
clockwise until threads are fully disengaged. on seals.
15. [ ] Withdraw damper assembly from right stan- NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
chion. 27. [ ] Insert damper cartridge into bottom of right
16. [ ] Remove coil-spring ring from wiper seals, stanchion. Thread cap in counterclockwise
pry out wiper seals, then remove foam rings. and secure to 20in-lbs. Install conical bum-
Cleaning and inspection per on shaft (large-end first).
17. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom
nuts for damage. If damaged, remove crush with oil. RockShox recommends using their proprietary
washers from crush-washer retainers. RedRum product, of course. Other oils may react poorly
18. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry with the O-rings, so do not substitute for this oil without
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: being certain the substitute is suitable.
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 28. [ ] Oil air-piston O-ring with RedRum, then care-
plastic and rubber parts! fully insert piston assembly into bottom of
19. [ ] Holding damper cartridge in normal upright left stanchion tube.
position, slowly cycle damper shaft fully up 29. [ ] Oil bottom air-seal-head O-rings with RedRum,
and down, feeling for changes in resistance then install seal-end first onto piston shaft
indicating air is in damper. Replace damper if and into end of stanchion.
symptom is detected. 30. [ ] Thread cap in counterclockwise and secure
20. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, to 20in-lbs. Install conical bumper on shaft
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. (large-end first).
NOTE: If positive-spring air-pressure loss 31. [ ] Pull left shaft until it is out fully, then push or
was experienced and there were no leaks at pull on right shaft so both shafts are even.
air cap in step 1, air-piston O-ring is bad. If 32. [ ] Check that foam rings are correctly posi-
negative spring was losing pressure and no tioned, then carefully guide slider onto stan-
leaks were detected at valve, replace O-rings chions, stopping when sliders are about half
in lower air-seal assembly. way up stanchions (shafts should not be
21. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and contacting holes in bottoms of sliders).
dropouts for bends and cracks. 33. [ ] Inject 10cc of 5wt shock oil into hole in
each slider.
38 – 180
34. [ ] Slowly push slider up stanchions until both
shafts protrude from slider.
bottom nuts.
mended negative-spring air-pressure range makes the
36. [ ] Thread nut with 8mm head onto right shaft. fork less prone to react to pedaling forces, but this will
37. [ ] Thread other nut onto left-shaft threads. compromise comfort. Using a pressure at the higher end
38. [ ] Torque nuts to 45in-lbs. of the recommended range makes the ride more com-
fortable, but this increases the tendency of the fork to
Left-leg assembly compress in response to pedaling forces.
39. [ ] Pour 3–5cc RedRum into top of left stanchion.
40. [ ] Engage left stanchion-cap threads into left Spring-rate adjustment
stanchion. The spring rate can be made more progressive than
41. [ ] Secure left stanchion cap to 40in-lbs. the stock setup. A more progressive spring rate means
42. [ ] Inflate positive spring to 110% of pressure that as the fork approaches full compression, it reacts
like it has a stronger spring than it has at the beginning
’01 RACE POSITIVE-SPRING PRESSURE of the compression stroke. This means that the fork will
Rider weight Pressure range feel comfortable on small bumps, but it will be less likely
<120lbs 70–80psi to compress fully on big hits. To increase the spring rate,
120–140lbs 80–100psi increase the RedRum volume in the positive air chamber(s)
140–160lbs 100–120psi to as much as 10cc.
160–180lbs 120–140psi
>180lbs 140–180psi
43. [ ] Inflate negative spring to 110% of pressure
ROCKSHOX ’00–’03
SID NEGATIVE-SPRING PRESSURE BOXXER FORKS
Rider weight Recreational use Racing use
<120lbs
120–140lbs
70–80psi
80–100psi
40–60psi
60–80psi
ABOUT THIS SECTION
This section covers service of the 2000–2003 Boxxer
140–160lbs 100–120psi 80–100psi forks. The ’03 models have several different features from
160–180lbs 120–140psi 100–120psi the earlier years. Variations in procedure that are due to
>180lbs 140–160psi 120–140psi these differences are labeled ’03 only or ’00–’02 only.
44. [ ] Install valve caps to all air valves. Additionally, the ’03 Boxxer Race has no compression
damper, but the ’03 Boxxer Team and World Cup do have
a compression damper. Variations in procedure that are
TUNING OPTIONS due to these differences are labeled ’03 Race only or ’03
Sag adjustment T/WC only (T/WC for Team/World Cup).
sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position. Air TOOL REQUIREMENTS
pressure determines the sag. A pressure in the upper end In addition to common tools, working on these forks
of the recommended range creates less sag. A pressure in requires some relatively unique tools.
the lower end of the recommended range creates more If performing bushing service, the same tools that
sag. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the work on all other RockShox forks work on these models,
amount of available travel for big hits. with the addition of Boxxer-specific adapters for the
SAG SETTINGS bushing-installation tool. The tool-model numbers are
Travel Sag range listed in the bushing removal and installation section.
63mm 7–15mm A 24mm socket is required that is used on low-profile
80mm 13–20mm fittings. These types of fittings require modification of the
100mm 18–25mm
socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typically
have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats to
start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket.
38 – 181
File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately performance, the test will let you know whether to use the
at the end of the socket. manufacturer’s recommended weight or not.
Internal snap-ring pliers are required. The snap-rings 3. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Turn fork over to drain oil into
have 1.2mm holes and 2.0mm holes. Tips that closely waste receptacle (pump fork gently while
fit this hole size are needed. Bent tips are preferable to draining oil).
straight tips. ’03 only: Turn fork over to drain oil into
waste receptacle (watching for white spring
perch, pump fork gently while draining oil).
volume is needed. 4. [ ] Plug stanchion with lint-free paper shop
towel, then repeat steps 1–3 for right side.
SPRING REPLACEMENT ONLY Slider removal
Springs may need to be replaced to accommodate NOTE: Put fork in horizontal position.
the rider’s weight and riding style. If the fork bottoms 5. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Use 6mm hex key to unthread
too frequently, the existing spring may be for a lighter or bolts in bottoms of sliders 4 full turns. Tap
less aggressive rider. If the fork never bottoms, the spring on bolt heads with plastic mallet until heads
may be for a heavier or more aggressive rider. Adjust the are back against sliders, then remove bolts.
’03 only: Use 5mm hex key to unthread
preload to its limit to see if the frequency of bottom-
bolts in bottoms of sliders 3 full turns. Tap
ing can be improved. If this does not make the desired
on bolt heads with plastic mallet until heads
improvement, try changing the springs. are back against sliders, then remove bolts.
1. [ ] Loosen upper-crown bolts. 6. [ ] With oil-waste receptacle positioned to
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–2 (both sides). catch draining oil, turn fork to vertical
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 89–92 and 94. position and allow oil to fully drain. NOTE:
Pull sliders almost fully off stanchions to
OIL CHANGE ONLY facilitate draining.

7. [ ] Pull slider off stanchions.
An oil change needs to be done periodically to refresh
the damping fluid. It might also be done to change the Rebound-damper disassembly
damping (see TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section). 8. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Remove snap-ring in bottom
1. [ ] Remove the fork. of right stanchion, then withdraw rebound-
2. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 1–4 and 38-128. damper assembly (black aluminum shaft).
3. [ ] Cap both stanchions. ’03 only: Remove snap-ring in bottom of
4. [ ] Repeat steps 1 and 3 (both sides). right stanchion, then withdraw rebound-
5. [ ] Do FULL FORK SERVICE steps 87–94. damper assembly (steel shaft).
9. [ ] Retrieve split ring and spring-base plate from
top end of damper or from bottom of stan-
FULL FORK SERVICE chion (if they did not come out with damper).
10. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Pull base valve off bottom
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical of damper shaft and separate body, plastic
position with back side facing you for follow- valve plate, and washers (3).
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. ’03 only: Pull base-valve assembly off bot-
tom of damper shaft and separate body,
Spring-stack removal valve, and washer.
1. [ ] Use 24mm socket to unthread left stanchion 11. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Unsnap top-out spring from bot-
cap and remove cap. tom of damper-piston head and remove spring.
2. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Remove spacer washers and ’03 only: Remove All-Travel spacer (6" travel
spacer rod, then remove spring. setup only) and top-out spring from damper.
’03 only: Remove spacer washers. All-Travel 12. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Use seal pick to carefully
sleeve (not in this location if set up for 6" remove circlip in top of piston.
travel), then remove spring (white spring 13. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Remove wavy washer from
perch may be attached to bottom of spring piston head.
or may fall out later while draining oil). 14. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Use magnet to retrieve cylin-
In the next step, the oil is drained into a waste recep- drical key from between detent mechanism
tacle. It is a good idea to retain a small amount of the and inside of piston head.
oil for a viscosity test (described in the beginning of this 15. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Carefully turn damper over and
chapter). If the user has changed the oil to alter damping catch detent ring and detent ball.
38 – 182
Stanchion caps
Nylock nut Spring
Spring cap base plate
Preload Split ring

Spring
washers
Circlip
Wavy washer
Valve plate
Cylindrical key
Spring Detent ring

Compression
damper spacers Ball bearing
Damper
adjuster
Rebound
damper
Top-out
spring Spring Spring
(partial) (partial)
Base valve
Adjuster
Wavy
rod
washer
Plastic
washer Stanchion Stanchion
(partial) (partial)
Base valve
plate
Snap ring Shaft cap
Top-out
Coil-spring ring spring
Dust wiper
Snap ring Base valve
Metal washer Plastic washer
Wavy washer
Oil-pressure seal
Plastic washer
Base valve plate
Bushings – 2 in each slider

Slider (not pictured) Slider Snap ring
(partial) (partial)
Crush washer
Crush washer retainer
Hollow bolt
38.39 ’00–’02 RockShox Boxxer fork.
38 – 183
16. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Unthread shaft cap from bot- ’03 only: Only if replacing bushings or seals,
tom of damper shaft, then push damper pry out dust wipers and oil-pressure seals.
adjuster rod out bottom of shaft. NOTE: Bushing installation tool required to
install either.
Compression-damper/plunger disassembly NOTE: Skip to step 53 if bushings and oil-pressure
17. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Remove snap-ring in seals are not being replaced.
bottom of right stanchion, then withdraw NOTE: If oil-pressure seals are being replaced, but
compression-damper assembly (grey shaft). not bushings, perform steps 50–52, then skip
’03 Race only: Remove snap-ring in bottom to step 56.
of right stanchion, then withdraw plunger
assembly. Bushing removal
18. [ ] Retrieve split ring and spring-base plate from The remover tool (#70096) has several pieces, which
top end of damper or from bottom of stan- are described below with the names that are used in the
chion if they did not come out with damper. procedure:
19. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Pull base valve off bot- Long metal bar – “extractor bar”
tom of damper shaft and separate body,
Oblong plate (4) – “extractor plate”
plastic valve plate, and washers (2).
’03 Race only: Pull top-out spring assembly 6mm hex-socket bolt – “retaining bolt”
off bottom of plunger shaft, then remove Older removal tools have two extractor plates and
All-Travel spacer (6" travel setup only). will not work with Duke, Psylo, and Boxxer forks until
20. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Unsnap top-out spring upgraded.
from bottom of damper-piston head and 32. [ ] Measure stanchion diameter, then select the
remove spring. first extractor plate that is longer than stan-
21. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Unthread shaft cap from chion diameter.
bottom of damper shaft. 33. [ ] Remove retaining bolt. Install extractor plate
22. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Insert 3mm hex key into (flat-face first) onto extractor bar with bev-
damper adjuster rod in shaft cap, then eled end of plate on same edge of bar as
unthread nylock nut from top end of damper small bump (near retaining-bolt hole). Install
adjuster assembly. retaining bolt.
’03 T/WC only: Pull adjuster assembly out of 34. [ ] Install large end of extractor bar securely
damper, then remove O-ring from adjuster. in vise with beveled end of extractor plate
23. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Remove plastic spring cap, pointing down.
spring, and valve plate from valve assembly. NOTE: If removing seals (an earlier step) was omit-
ted, steps 35–37 will go very poorly!
Cleaning and inspection 35. [ ] Push slider onto end of extractor tool until
24. [ ] Clean all parts with mild detergent and dry plate is past bushing, then pull out on slider
with lint-free rag and compressed air. NOTE: until plate catches on back edge of bushing.
Avoid using solvents to prevent damage to 36. [ ] Tap on top of slider tube with plastic mallet
plastic and rubber parts! until bushing comes out.
25. [ ] Inspect wiper seals and damper-shaft glide 37. [ ] Repeat steps 35–36 for remaining bushings.
rings for nicks or tears.
26. [ ] Inspect plastic crush washers on bottom Bushing installation
bolts for damage. If damaged, remove crush For installing the bushings, a basic tool and several
washers from crush-washer retainers. adapter kits are required. The basic tool has no function-
27. [ ] Check all O-rings and rubber seals for tears, ality without any of the adapter kits. The specific tools
deformation, or nicks and replace as needed. needed are:
28. [ ] Inspect stanchions, crown, fork column, and Universal Bushing Installer #110-006352-00
Boxxer shaft base #110-006352-00
29. [ ] Inspect bushings for wear. If bushings are
worn out, plastic coating in bushings will be Boxxer sleeve set #110-006357-00
partially missing, exposing brass flecks or 38. [ ] Assemble shaft base and shaft to top of
metal base material. base plate.
30. [ ] Inspect stanchions and damper shafts for 39. [ ] Install vertical plate of base plate in vise with
scratches or wear marks. edge of vertical plate even with end of vise
31. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Only if replacing bushings or jaw and shaft located beyond end of vise.
seals, pry out dust wipers, remove snap- 40. [ ] Place Boxxer long sleeve on shaft.
rings and flat washers, then pry out oil- In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec-
pressure seals. ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension-
38 – 184
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, 59. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Place upside-down damper
but check labels for references to lithium. shaft over detent ring so bearing will be
41. [ ] Grease smaller-O.D. bushing inside and out, positioned in range of detent teeth on end of
then place bushing on shaft. adjuster rod.
42. [ ] Place slider over shaft so front of slider 60. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Turn assembly over, then use
faces away from vise. 3mm hex key to rotate adjuster rod until slot
43. [ ] Insert small end of drift into hole in bottom in perimeter of detent ring lines up with slot
end of slider, then tap slider (not dropout) inside head of piston, then drop cylindrical
with plastic mallet until slider bottoms. key into slot.
44. [ ] Repeat steps 41–43 for other lower bushing. 61. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Place wavy washer on top of
45. [ ] Replace long sleeve on shaft with short detent ring, then install split ring in head of
Boxxer sleeve. piston. If possible, install with ring split in
46. [ ] Grease larger-O.D. bushing inside and out, line with slot for cylindrical key.
then place bushing on shaft. 62. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Install top-out spring
47. [ ] Place slider over shaft so front of slider onto damper shaft and snap into groove on
faces away from vise. bottom end of piston head.
48. [ ] Insert small end of drift into hole in bottom 63. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Assemble black base-valve body
end of slider, then tap slider (not dropout) (flat-face first) onto bottom of damper shaft.
with plastic mallet until slider bottoms. ’03 Race, 6" travel only: Install top-out spring
49. [ ] Repeat steps 46–48 for other upper bushing. onto rebound damper (snaps into place), then
50. [ ] Remove short sleeve from shaft. Place lower snap All-Travel spacer into bottom of top-
seal (cupped-face up) on shaft, then place out spring (cap on bottom of spring must be
slider over shaft. Tap on slider (not dropout) removed first if converting from 7" travel).
to drive slider down fully. Repeat both sides. ’03 Race, 7" travel only: Install top-out spring
51. [ ] Oil foam rings if new, then install foam rings onto rebound damper.
in each slider. 64. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Insert plastic washer,
52. [ ] Tap wiper seals into top of each slider with wavy washer, then plastic washer into
plastic mallet, then install coil-spring rings base valve.
on seals. 65. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install black valve plate (flat-
face last) onto shaft and against bottom of
Slider preparation base valve.
NOTE: Skip to step 56 if bushings were replaced. 66. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install spring base-plate (long-
In the next step, the bushings are greased. RockShox rec- end up) on top of piston.
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- 67. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install split ring into groove in
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, piston head with smaller overlapping tab on
but check labels for references to lithium. upper end.
NOTE: Skip to step 56 if oil-pressure seals were
Compression-damper assembly
68. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Place valve plate (cup-face
replaced.
first) onto damper adjuster rod.
69. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Place spring on top of valve
in each slider.
plate, then insert spring cap into end of spring.
70. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Thread nylock nut onto
adjuster rod until about 1–2mm of threaded
on seals.
stud is exposed above nut.
71. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Thread valve assembly
Rebound-damper assembly into damper shaft.
56. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Insert damper adjuster rod 72. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Install top-out spring
(open-end first) into bottom of damper shaft, onto damper shaft and snap into groove on
then use 3mm hex key to rotate rod until pin bottom end of piston head.
on top is opposite slot inside piston head. ’03 Race, 6" travel only: Snap All-Travel
’03 T/WC only: Insert damper adjuster assem- spacer into top-out spring (cap on top of
bly into damper. spring must be removed first if converting
57. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Thread shaft cap into from 7" travel), then slide top-out spring
bottom of shaft. assembly onto plunger shaft.
58. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Turn detent ring upside down ’03 Race, 7" travel only: Slide top-out spring
and place bearing in cup in edge of ring. assembly onto plunger shaft.
38 – 185
73. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Assemble silver base- ’03 T/WC only: Install white spring perch
valve body (flat-face first) onto bottom of (long-end first) in top of right stanchion.
damper shaft.
74. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Insert wavy washer, Oil filling and spring-stack installation
then plastic washer, into base valve. NOTE: Put fork in vertical position.
75. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Install white valve 87. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Pour 200cc of 10wt oil into
plate (flat-face last) onto shaft and against left stanchion. NOTE: 5wt oil recommended
bottom of base valve. if both springs are soft (white).
76. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install spring base-plate (long- ’03 Race only: Pour 170cc of 5wt oil into
end up) on top of piston. left stanchion.
77. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install split ring into groove in ’03 T/WC only: Pour 160cc of 10wt oil into
piston head with smaller overlapping tab on left stanchion. NOTE: 5wt oil recommended
upper end. if both springs are soft (white).
88. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Pour 185cc of 15wt oil into
Damper/plunger installation right stanchion.
78. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Compress split ring into groove ’03 only: Pour 180cc of 5wt oil into right
in compression-damper piston (silver shaft), stanchion.
then carefully insert damper assembly into 89. [ ] Install springs in stanchions.
left stanchion. NOTE: Inspect closely during 90. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Install spring spacers in stan-
insertion for whether split ring is remaining chions (large-diameter-ends up).
fully inside groove in piston. ’03 Race, 7" travel only: Install All-Travel
’03 T/WC only: Insert compression-damper spacers into top of each stanchion.
assembly into left stanchion. ’03 T/WC only: Install longer All-Travel spacer
’03 Race only: Insert plunger-shaft assembly in right stanchion, then install shorter All-
into left stanchion. Travel spacer into left stanchion.
79. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Seat valve base into 91. [ ] Install preload spacer washers (if any) in
stanchion tube, then retain with snap-ring stanchions.
(flatter-face out). 92. [ ] Thread stanchion caps into stanchions and
’03 Race only: Seat top-out-spring assembly torque caps to 40in-lbs.
into stanchion tube, then retain with snap-ring 93. [ ] Install fork into frame.
(flatter-face out). 94. [ ] Check security of all stanchion-clamp bolts
80. [ ] All except ’03 Race: Repeat steps 78–79 for in both fork crowns (65in-lbs).
other side.
’03 Race only: Repeat step 78 for other side.
Seat valve base into stanchion tube, then TUNING OPTIONS
retain with snap-ring (flatter-face out).
Slider installation Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the
In step #81, the wiper seals are greased. RockShox rec- rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding posi-
ommends non-lithium grease for this purpose. Suspension- tion. More sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces
specific greases can reasonably be assumed to be compatible, the amount of available travel for big hits. Sag is adjusted
but check labels for references to lithium. by means of changing the number of preload spacers
81. [ ] Fill pockets in wiper seals with non-lithium installed under the stanchion caps. If it is not possible to
grease. achieve the desired sag with the existing springs, or the fork
82. [ ] Guide slider assembly onto stanchions. bottoms too easily or not enough, then consider changing
83. [ ] Replace crush washers on bottom bolts (if springs. The following table of spring combinations shows
removed).
the recommended springs for different rider weights.
84. [ ] Put drop of Loctite 242 on threads of bolts, BOXXER SPRING COMBINATIONS
insert bolts into bottoms of sliders, then Rider weight Left spring Right spring
thread bolts into shafts. 100-120lbs White White
85. [ ] Secure both bolts to 60in-lbs.
120-150lbs White Silver
86. [ ] ’00–’02 only: Inspect in top of stanchion
tube for whether spring base plates are long- 150-185lbs Silver Silver
ends up on tops of damper assemblies. 185-220lbs Silver Yellow
’03 Race only: Install white spring perches 220-250lbs Yellow Yellow
(long-end first) in tops of both stanchions. >250lbs Yellow Red
38 – 186
5. [ ] Remove valve caps and install pump on each
BOXXER SPRING PART NUMBERS valve to determine current pressures:
Spring rate Color Part # Compression spring: ______psi
Soft White 110-004704-00 Negative spring: ______psi
Medium Silver 110-004705-00 NOTE: If pressure loss is suspected, inflate
Firm Yellow 110-004706-00 both springs to different high pressures, then
submerge in water to check for leaks. If there
Extra firm Red 110-004707-00
are no external leaks but pressures in springs
tend to equalize, fixed-piston O-ring is leaking.
Damping adjustment 6. [ ] Deflate valves, then remove valve cores.
The rebound damper is in the right leg, and the com- 7. [ ] Remove travel-indicator O-ring from damping
pression damper is in the left leg. The dampers are adjusted body.
by means of turning an adjusting rod (accessible through 8. [ ] Use SID Spanner to turn silver ring (at bot-
the holes in the bottom bolts) with a 3mm hex key. Turn tom of canister) fully counterclockwise, then
the rods clockwise to increase damping. pull canister up off damper body.
9. [ ] Remove O-ring and split glide ring from fixed
piston on damping body.
ROCKSHOX 10. [ ] Clean all parts with warm soapy water, then
’99–’03 SID REAR SHOCK dry with compressed air and lint-free paper
shop towels.
11. [ ] If air loss is suspected, inspect inside of can-
ABOUT THIS SECTION ister and outside of damper body for wear
marks and scratches.
This section is written specifically about the ’99–’03 12. [ ] If air loss was found occurring at silver ring,
SID Adjust rear shocks. Two other models, the SID (non- replace O-ring inside canister lid.
adjustable) and the SID Adjust Remote, are similar enough 13. [ ] If air loss was occurring at between canister
that the following procedure can be used with little variation. and damper body, replace all seals and wip-
The procedure requires two tools that are unique to the ers in end of canister.
SID models. The unique tools are the SID Spanner Wrench Canister assembly
#140-001969-00 and the SID Bullet #140-001437-00. 14. [ ] Grasp canister-eyelet flats in soft jaws in
Some of the models in this group have a service- vise, avoiding clamping on adjuster knob.
able damper, but shop service is limited by the fact 15. [ ] Install O-ring and glide ring onto fixed piston.
that 175psi compressed gas must be injected into the 16. [ ] Use Judy Butter or other non-lithium grease to
shock at a rapid rate. A hand-operated shock pump or a grease fixed piston O-ring and wipers, seals,
typical compressor (125psi limit) is not suitable for this. and bearing in small-I.D. end of canister.
17. [ ] Place SID Bullet over damper-body eyelet.
Because of this limitation, the following procedure does
18. [ ] Being careful not to displace fixed-piston
not include damper service.
glide ring, slowly slide large end of canister
Shock removal over damper body and fixed piston, but stop
1. [ ] Note orientation of shock in frame and short of engaging canister eyelet.
which way air valves point. 19. [ ] Rotate canister so air valve on canister
2. [ ] Remove mounting hardware and remove aligns with air valve on canister eyelet.
shock from frame. 20. [ ] Press canister firmly down onto canister
3. [ ] Counting clicks, turn red damping adjuster eyelet until it seats fully.
(if any) fully counterclockwise: ______clicks. 21. [ ] Thread canister ring onto canister eyelet and
lightly snug with SID Spanner Wrench.
Removal of air canister 22. [ ] Install travel-indicator O-ring on damper body.
4. [ ] Clamp canister eyelet in soft jaws of vise, 23. [ ] Install valve cores into valves.
being careful to avoid adjusting knob (if any). 24. [ ] Inflate compression spring to original pres-
sure, then inflate negative spring to 125%
of original pressure (due to low volume, neg-
ative spring loses significant pressure when
attaching pump to take original reading).
25. [ ] Install valve caps.
38 – 187
Shock installation damper replacement, damper overhaul, and service of the

26. [ ] Check whether flats of damper-body eyelet telescope bearings.
are in line with flats of canister eyelet and
rotate damper body as necessary to achieve
good alignment. HEADSHOK VARIETIES
27. [ ] Place shock in position on frame (in origi- The these forks are made in several spring and damper
nal orientation and with air valves pointing configurations. The letter codes D, DD, DL, M, MC, and
original direction), then install and secure SL in the model name indicate the configuration. Use the
mounting hardware. following guide to identify the configuration of the fork
being serviced.
TUNING OPTIONS M series: Coil/elastomer spring, or plain elastomer
spring, and friction damping cartridge. The identifying
Compression-spring pressure feature of this series is that the cap on the top of the fork
RockShox provides few guidelines except to say (above the stem) is neither a lever or a knob, and there is
that pressure should be adjusted to achieve the rear sag no air valve in the bottom of the fork crown. The M series
(seat-to-floor distance change with rider on bike) that includes MC50 and MC60 (1996 and 1997) forks.
is recommended by the bicycle manufacturer. In their D series: Coil/elastomer spring, or plain elastomer
example, they suggest a 15–30% sag measurement for spring, and oil damping cartridge with lockout. The identify-
“cross-country riding” and suggest that the rider weight ing features of this series are that the cap on the top of the
should be the starting point for the compression-spring fork (above the stem) is a two-position knob or lever, and
air pressure (175lb rider, start with 175psi). there is no air valve in the bottom of the crown. In certain
locations, these are also called DD forks, but the absence
Negative-spring pressure of an air valve makes the fork part of the D series.
RockShox suggests starting with a pressure equal to
DL series: Air spring and oil damping cartridge with
the compression spring setting, plus or minus 20psi.
lockout. The identifying feature of this series is that the cap
Damping adjustments on the top of the fork (above the stem) is a two-position
The shock has a red knob for adjusting rebound knob or lever, and there is an air valve in the bottom of
damping. Tightening the knob increases the damping. the crown. In certain locations, these are also called DD
There are approximately 35 clicks of adjustment between forks, but the presence of an air valve makes the fork part
fully open and fully closed (four full turns). of the DL series.
SL series: Air spring and oil damping cartridge with
five degrees of adjustment. The identifying feature of this
series is that the cap on the top of the fork (above the
CANNONDALE HEADSHOK stem) is a knob that has five positions. Current models
This section covers HeadShok DD, Fatty, MC, and have SL in the name, but Fatty 50 and Fatty 70 (1996 and
P-Bone forks made from 1992 through 2003. All of these 1997) forks lack the SL designation.
forks are characterized by having the suspension contained
in the head tube. Cannondales with suspension in the fork
leg(s) are either Moto models (dual telescoping legs) or HEADSHOK TOOL SELECTION
Lefty models (single telescoping leg). HeadShok forks with Several unique Cannondale tools are needed, depend-
an air valve on top are different from the models covered ing on the type of service being performed. The following
in this section. For these top-air models, fork removal and list of tool names and model numbers indicates the types
boot replacement are the only non-factory services that of service for which each tool is used.
Outer cap tool HD136 all
can be performed. Castle tool HDTL146 all except boot replacement
The HeadShok system is highly serviceable. There are Hinged pin tool* HDTL148 all except boot replacement
common and necessary services that are easy to perform, Bearing driver HDTL149 all except spring & damper
and there are less-common services that can be very com- replacement
Bullet tool HDTL168 lockout damper overhaul
plex to perform. The services included in this section are
Bullet tool HD134 Fatty 50/70 damper overhaul
presented in an order that starts with the most common Shaft clamp HDTL187 damper overhaul
and simple services and ends with the most complex. The Slot tool KT006 damper overhaul
different levels of service are boot replacement and bear- Migration tool KT016 all except boot replacement
ing lubrication, headset-bearing replacement, spring service, Race retainer KT002\ telescope bearing service
*Pre-1999 DD series and MC series friction dampers
38 – 188
Top cap
(telescope cap)
Damper body
Top seal head

Set screw and O-ring
Piston
Damper-body O-ring
Lower seal-head O-ring*
Cup seal**
*Installs to outside
of lower seal head
Lower seal head
** Installs inside
of lower seal head
Cup seal**
Air piston
Piston O-ring
Shaft O-ring
Piston O-ring
Spring cap
Seal-head O-ring
Piston O-ring
Negative spring
Air cylinder
Spring cap
Shims
O-ring
Shaft cap (plate)
Platic sleeve
Valve cap
38.40 Cannondale Headshok damper and air spring.
38 – 189
HEADSHOK BOOT REPLACEMENT 12. [ ] While holding fork up, tap on top of bearing
driver with mallet until lower bearing is fully
& BEARING LUBRICATION seated in head tube.
13. [ ] Install stem and secure bolt(s) to Cannon-
Regular boot replacement is critical to the longevity of
dale’s recommended torque:
the telescope bearings, replacement of which can be very
Single bolt: 120–144in-lbs
time-consuming or expensive. Once a boot is torn, criti-
Double bolt: 77–94in-lbs
cal bearing contamination starts happening immediately. 14. [ ] D/DL only: Place damper-adjuster knob (if
Replace boots that look dry, have any superficial hairline any) on top of large hex fitting, then treat
cracks, have lost any elasticity, or are known to be more bolt threads with Loctite 242 and thread
than one year old. bolt into shaft to retain knob.
1. [ ] Remove front wheel. SL only: Use screwdriver to turn shaft
2. [ ] Turn damper knob (if any) fully counterclockwise to gentle stop. Install knob with
clockwise. ball plunger aligned to groove in cap, then
3. [ ] D/DL only: Remove retainer bolt from top of rotate knob fully clockwise. While pressing
damper-adjuster knob, then pull off knob. firmly down on knob, secure set screw in
SL only: Use 3mm hex key to loosen set side of knob.
screw in side of knob, then pull off knob. M only: Attach plastic cover to top of tele-
M only: Remove plastic telescope cover scope.
(retained by through-bolt). 15. [ ] Install front wheel.
4. [ ] Remove stem.
Some models have a mechanism on top of the tele-
scope that is easily damaged by impact. In the next step, HEADSHOK HEADSET-BEARING
Cannondale’s outer-cap tool (for unthreading the telescope
cap) is placed over this mechanism for protection. Any other
REPLACEMENT
The headset (steering) bearings are cartridge bearings
cylinder that allows the impact to be applied directly to the that can be replaced if they feel tight, gritty, or sloppy.
telescope cap and not through the mechanism on top of 1. [ ] Perform steps 1–7 of HEADSHOK BOOT REPLACE-
the cap can be used instead of the outer-cap tool. MENT & BEARING LUBRICATION.
5. [ ] Place outer-cap tool on top of fork column,
then use mallet to strike outer-cap tool until Lower-bearing replacement
fork is separated from head tube. 2. [ ] Use adjustable pin tool such as Park SPA-4
6. [ ] Cut zip ties at top and bottom ends of old (green handles) to unthread ring at bottom
boot, then remove old boot. of outer telescope tube.
7. [ ] Carefully inspect inner telescope tube for 3. [ ] Turn Cannondale outer-cap tool upside down
corrosion. NOTE: Any corrosion indicates on bench top, then place fork upside down
mandatory replacement! on top of pin tool.
8. [ ] Apply thin coating of Royal Purple grease 4. [ ] While holding ring up at fork crown, use
(Cannondale specification) to bearing races mallet to strike down on lower bearing,
exposed on inner tube. alternating at two points 180º apart. NOTE:
9. [ ] Install new boot (smaller-end first) over top Gentle impact and patience is required; doz-
of fork, then carefully stretch boot over ens of taps may be needed.
lower bearing. Seat upper end of boot on 5. [ ] When bearing has dropped approximately
aluminum ring just below bearing, then seat 10mm, since tube is slightly smaller diam-
lower end of boot over lip on fork crown. eter, it should be possible to move bearing
10. [ ] Secure boot at both ends with zip ties. by hand. NOTE: There is a tendency for the
In the next two steps, the lower bearing is pressed back bearing to jam in this area if it tips slightly.
6. [ ] When bearing reaches wide point 2" before
into the head tube. It is awkward and difficult to press it
end of tube, repeat steps 3–4 until bearing
in by applying impact to the underside of the fork crown. is past wide point.
In these steps, Cannondale’s bearing driver (normally used 7. [ ] Turn fork over and remove bearing.
to press the bearings into the top of the head tube and 8. [ ] Treat threads where bottom ring attaches to
onto the telescope tube) is used in a novel way to seat the tube with Loctite 242, then thread ring on
fork back into the head tube. The steps may appear to be and snug securely with pin spanner.
illogical, but the desired result is easily achieved. 9. [ ] Treat mounting point for lower bearing with
11. [ ] Insert fork into head tube, then place bear- Loctite 242, then slide new bearing onto top
ing driver on upper bearing. of telescope.
38 – 190
10. [ ] Place Cannondale bearing driver over tube 3. [ ] DL and SL only: Pressurize fork and check
and against bearing. for air loss at valve (if so, tighten or replace
11. [ ] Holding fork in air by legs (do not support valve core). Pressure loss without leaks at
fork on surface), strike bearing driver with valve indicates O-rings on air piston need
mallet just until bearing clears upper-bearing replacement.
mount point. 4. [ ] DL and SL only: Deflate air spring.
12. [ ] While still holding fork in air by legs, use 5. [ ] Turn damper knob (if any) fully counter-
bearing driver as a slider hammer to seat clockwise.
bearing onto lower mount point (all the way 6. [ ] D/DL only: Remove retainer bolt from top of
against bottom ring). damper-adjuster knob, then pull off knob.
13. [ ] Perform steps 8–10 of HEADSHOK BOOT SL only: Use 3mm hex key to loosen set
REPLACEMENT & BEARING LUBRICATION. screw in side of knob, then pull off knob.
M only: Remove plastic telescope cover
Upper-bearing replacement (retained by through-bolt).
14. [ ] Use drift or punch from below to drive old 7. [ ] Remove stem.
bearing out top of head tube.
Some models have a mechanism on top of the tele-
15. [ ] Treat upper bearing-mount point on tele-
scope tube and inside of upper end of head
scope that is easily damaged by impact. In the next step,
tube with Loctite 242. Cannondale’s outer-cap tool (for unthreading the telescope
16. [ ] Insert fork into head tube, place new bearing cap) is placed over this mechanism for protection. Any other
onto fork, then place bearing driver on upper cylinder that allows the impact to be applied directly to the
bearing. telescope cap and not through the mechanism on top of
17. [ ] Perform steps 12–15 of HEADSHOK BOOT the cap can be used instead of the outer-cap tool.
REPLACEMENT & BEARING LUBRICATION. 8. [ ] Place outer-cap tool on top of fork column,
then use mallet to strike outer-cap tool until
fork is separated from head tube.
HEADSHOK SPRING SERVICE Regular boot replacement is critical to the longevity of
The air spring can be serviced, or the coil spring the telescope bearings, replacement of which can be very
replaced, without performing a major service. time-consuming or expensive. Once a boot is torn, bear-
1. [ ] Do HEADSHOK DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps ing contamination starts happening immediately. Replace
1–7, then steps 11–19.
boots that look dry, have any superficial hairline cracks,
2. [ ] Do HEADSHOK DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps
43–48, then steps 54–56. have lost any elasticity, or are known to be more than
one year old. Replacing the boot every time the damper
is being serviced is strongly recommended.
HEADSHOK DAMPER 9. [ ] Inspect boot for tears and cracks and
REPLACEMENT remove if not acceptable.

10. [ ] Clamp outer telescope in bike-stand clamp.
1. [ ] Do HEADSHOK DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps 11. [ ] D/M only: Counting turns, use hex key to
1–7, then steps 12–15. turn hex bolt in center of top cap fully coun-
2. [ ] Do HEADSHOK DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD 48–50, terclockwise: ________ turns.
then steps 55–56. 12. [ ] Use outer-cap tool to unthread telescope cap.
For damper/spring upgrade compatibility, see 13. [ ] M only: Pull telescope cap fully up, then slide
HEADSHOK OPTIONS. plastic or elastomer spacer on shaft down
until wrench flats on shaft are exposed.
14. [ ] M only: Use 10mm or 11mm wrench to
HEADSHOK DAMPER & SPRING hold shaft stationary while using pin tool
REBUILD to unthread telescope cap from shaft, then
remove plastic or elastomer spacers.
Disassembly 15. [ ] M only: Press fork up into outer telescope,
1. [ ] Remove front wheel and remove valve cap then use castle tool (or hinged pin tool) to
(if any) on underside of fork crown. unthread cartridge from inner telescope tube.
2. [ ] DL and SL only: Measure existing pressure D/DL & SL only: Press fork up into outer
and record here: _________psi telescope, then carefully engage castle tool
to top of damper cartridge and unthread
cartridge (it is critical not to scratch damper
shaft with sharp edges of castle tool).
38 – 191
16. [ ] Withdraw cartridge from telescope 30. [ ] Install damper-shaft assembly into top (wide)
assembly. end of damper body, then secure top body
17. [ ] DL & SL only: Turn fork over so air cartridge cap with pin spanner.
drops out top of telescope assembly, then 31. [ ] Install Phillips screw in side of damper body.
remove circlip in bottom of fork crown. In the next two steps, references to Fatty 50 and
D/M only: Turn fork over so spring drops Fatty 70 cartridges are made. These cartridges are the
out top of telescope assembly, then push only ones with 15.9mm shafts (all others are 12.7mm).
bottom plug into fork. Remove circlip, then Because Cannondale does not sell a shaft clamp for the
push bottom plug out bottom of fork.
15.9mm shafts, several of the steps for the Fatty 50/70
18. [ ] DL & SL only: Use hand pump to carefully
and slowly inflate air-spring cartridge to dampers must be done differently.
remove air piston. 32. [ ] Fatty 50/70 only: Carefully clamp damper
19. [ ] D, DL, & SL only: Holding damper cartridge body upside down in soft jaws in vise.
upright, slowly pump damper shaft up and All except Fatty 50/70: Use shaft clamps to
down, feeling for irregular resistance and lis- clamp damper assembly upside down in vise
tening for noises. Either symptom indicates (clamp on upper end of shaft as close to
oil loss and need for replacement of all seals telescope cap as possible).
in cartridge. 33. [ ] Fatty 50/70 only: Pull damper body fully up,
NOTE: Before proceeding, telescope-bearing con- then fill body with Spectro SX 400 shock oil
dition should be inspected. See CANNONDALE to 8mm from end of body.
TELESCOPE-BEARING SERVICE steps 2–4 now! All except Fatty 50/70: Push shaft fully
down, then fill body with Spectro SX 400
Oil-damper service shock oil to 8mm from end of body.
NOTE: Steps 20–43 are for D, DL, and SL oil-damper 34. [ ] Slowly and carefully, pump body (or shaft)
service only. For installation of new damper or up and down 5–10 times, then allow air
for continuation of M series, skip to step 44. bubbles on top of oil to fully dissipate.
In the next two steps, a plate is removed from the In the next step, a Cannondale shaft bullet #HDTL168
bottom end of the damper shaft. Not all versions have or #HD134 is used. The HDTL168 fits all dampers with
this plate, in which case these steps are skipped. a 12.7mm shaft, and the HD134 fits Fatty 50/70 dampers
20. [ ] Use Cannondale shaft clamps to clamp onto with a 15.9mm shaft.
bottom end of damper shaft so damper is 35. [ ] Place Cannondale shaft bullet on top of
upside down in vise. NOTE: Damper will be shaft, then slide body cap (threaded-end
destroyed in this step if clamped on end of first) fully onto shaft.
shaft with telescope cap! 36. [ ] Remove shaft bullet, then engage plastic
21. [ ] Use pin spanner to unthread plate from end slot tool to bottom body cap.
of shaft, then remove damper from vise. 37. [ ] Hold body stationary and thread bottom
22. [ ] Remove washers, spring-end plates, spring, body cap into body just until O-ring reaches
and O-ring from shaft. end of body and watch for oil overflow (lack
23. [ ] Remove plastic sleeve from end of cartridge of overflow indicates insufficient oil quan-
body. tity). Continue to slowly thread in cap, peri-
24. [ ] Hold damper body upside down in one hand odically backing cap out a few degrees to
and use plastic slot-tool to unthread slotted allow excess oil to escape past O-ring, until
cap from bottom end of damper body (be entire O-ring is fully inside body.
prepared for oil to spill out). 38. [ ] Place small O-ring over end of shaft.
25. [ ] Turn damper body over and pump oil into 39. [ ] Attach spring caps to spring and install
waste receptacle. spring over shaft.
26. [ ] Remove set screw (if any) from side of 40. [ ] Place washers on top of spring cap.
damper body with #1 Phillips screwdriver. 41. [ ] Shaft-plate models only: Treat shaft-end
27. [ ] Use pin spanner to remove upper body cap plate threads with Loctite 242, then gently
from body, then withdraw shaft and piston secure into shaft.
assembly from damper body. 42. [ ] Engage plastic sleeve to end of damper body.
28. [ ] Clean all parts with warm soapy water, then
dry thoroughly with lint-free paper shop tow- Assembly
els and/or compressed air. 43. [ ] DL & SL only: Lubricate air-piston O-rings,
29. [ ] Replace rings and seals on both body caps, then insert air piston flat-end first into air
damper piston, air piston, and Phillips screw. cylinder (opening air valve will allow easier
insertion).
38 – 192
44. [ ] Thread bearing-migration tool fully into top 54. [ ] Install stem and secure bolt(s) to Cannon-
of telescope assembly. With telescope fully dale’s recommended torque:
extended, check whether top of telescope Single bolt: 120–144in-lbs
tube is within range of 70/80 slot of migra- Double bolt: 77–94in-lbs
tion tool or up to 1mm above slot (ideal). NOTE: When securing double bolts, always
NOTE: For damper/spring upgrade compatibility, alternate between bolts repeatedly until both
see HEADSHOK OPTIONS. bolts won’t turn at desired torque!
45. [ ] DL & SL only: Install circlip in groove in bot- 55. [ ] D/DL only: Place damper-adjuster knob (if
tom end of inner telescope tube. any) on top of large hex fitting, then treat
D/M only: Insert bottom plug in bottom end bolt threads with Loctite 242 and thread
of inner telescope tube, then install circlip in bolt into shaft to retain knob.
groove to retain plug. SL only: Use screwdriver to turn shaft
46. [ ] DL & SL only: Drop air cylinder (valve-end clockwise to gentle stop. Install knob with
first) into telescope assembly. ball plunger aligned to groove in cap, then
D/M only: Thoroughly grease spring assem- rotate knob fully clockwise. While pressing
bly, then drop spring into telescope assembly. firmly down on knob, secure set screw in
NOTE: Before installing damper into telescope, side of knob.
confirm O-ring is present at top end of threads! M only: Restore preload setting recorded in
47. [ ] Treat damper-body threads with Loctite step 11, then attach plastic cover to top of
242, then drop damper assembly into tele- telescope.
scope (damper shaft should be fully up). 56. [ ] Install front wheel.
48. [ ] Pushing fork up into telescope assembly,
carefully use castle tool (or hinged pin tool)
to thread damper assembly into telescope HEADSHOK TUNING OPTIONS
assembly.
49. [ ] Treat telescope-cap threads with Loctite
242, then thread it into telescope and Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the rider
secure to 100in-lbs. sits statically on the bike in the normal riding position.
50. [ ] DL & SL only: Inflate air spring to 115% of On forks with air springs, the air pressure determines
original pressure and install valve cap. In the sag. A pressure near the top of the recommended
absence of valid initial pressure reading, start range creates less sag. A pressure near the bottom of the
with 70% of rider weight (200psi max.). recommended range creates more sag. More sag provides
M only: Install plastic or elastomer bottom- overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of available
out sleeves on shaft, thread telescope cap travel for big hits. On forks with coil springs, the preload
on, then hold shaft with 10mm or 11mm adjustment and the spring rate determine the amount of
wrench while securing telescope cap.
sag. A more clockwise preload adjustment or a stiffer
51. [ ] If boot was removed, slide new boot (small-
hole-end first) over telescope and lower spring creates less sag. A more counterclockwise preload
bearing. Seat top end of boot on ring below adjustment or a softer spring creates more sag. More sag
bearing and bottom end of boot below lip on provides overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of
fork crown, then retain boot with zip ties. available travel for big hits.
In the next two steps, the lower bearing is pressed back Check sag by measuring the change in accordion-boot
into the head tube. It is awkward and difficult to press it length between when the rider is off and on the bike.
in by applying impact to the underside of the fork crown. Cannondale recommends the following amounts of sag,
In these steps, Cannondale’s bearing driver (normally used depending on the maximum travel of the fork.
to press the bearings into the top of the head tube and 60–70mm travel: 3.5mm
onto the telescope tube) is used in a novel way to seat the 80mm travel: 6.0–9.5mm
fork back into the head tube. The steps may appear to be On a coil-spring fork, if the desired sag amount can-
illogical, but the desired result is easily achieved. not be set by the preload adjustment, a softer or stiffer
52. [ ] Insert fork into head tube, then place bear- spring is needed. If the correct sag can be set, but the
ing driver on upper bearing. fork never bottoms, a softer spring is needed. If the cor-
53. [ ] While holding fork up, tap on top of bearing rect sag can be set, but the fork bottoms too frequently, it
driver with mallet until lower bearing is fully indicates a stiffer spring is needed. See HEADSHOK OPTIONS
seated in head tube. (page 38-194) for spring choices.
38 – 193
HEADSHOK OPTIONS CANNONDALE LEFTY

Cartridge options This section covers Lefty M, Lefty DLR, Carbon
Many HeadShok forks fit more than one cartridge and Lefty DLR, and Carbon Lefty ELO forks made from 2000
spring system. An alternate cartridge can be an upgrade to through 2003. All of these forks are characterized by a single
a damper/spring system with a more sophisticated damper fork leg (on the left side). Cannondale forks with two legs
and/or spring and may sometimes increase travel. In the are either Moto models (dual telescoping legs) or HeadShok
following table, the travel (increased or not) that results models (rigid legs and suspension in the head tube).
from the alternate is shown in parenthesis. The alternate The Lefty shock system is highly serviceable. There
is not always an upgrade. A lesser cartridge may be chosen are common and necessary services that are easy to per-
due to preference, price, or availability. form, and there are less-common services that can be very
complex to perform. The services included in this section
HEADSHOK CARTRIDGE OPTIONS are presented in an order that starts with the most com-
Year Original model Alternate (resulting travel) mon and simple services and ends with the most complex.
’92–’96 DD50, MC50, DD60+HD110 (50), The different levels of service are boot replacement and
Fatty 50 Fatty 50 (50) bearing lubrication, headset-bearing replacement, battery
’97–’98 MC60 DD60, Fatty-70 (60) replacement (ELO), spring service, damper replacement,
’97–’98 Fatty 70 FT70 (70) damper overhaul, and telescope-bearing service.
’97–’98 DD60 (except Fatty 70 (60),
’98
in Fatty D)
DD60 (in Fatty
FT70 (60)
Fatty 70 (70),
LEFTY VARIETIES
The Lefty M/DLR and Carbon Lefty DLR/ELO
D only) FT70 (70)
have slightly different designs. These differences require
’99 FT70 DL70 (70) completely different procedures for some services and
’99 DD60 Fatty 70 (60) minor variations in other services. When entire proce-
DL70 (70) dures are unique to one variety or another, the title to the
’00–’01 MC70 FT70 (70), DL70 (70) procedure includes the applicable models. Variations in
’99–’03 MC80 FT80 (80), DL80 (80) common procedures that are due to these differences are
’99 FT80 MC80 (80), DL80 (80) labeled Carbon only or All except Carbon.
’00–’03 DL70 FT70 (70), MC70 (70) There are two versions of the Lefty DLR. The early
’99–’03 DL80 FT80 (80), MC80 (80) Lefty DLR (version SS100 for purposes of this manual)
does not have a 40mm hex fitting on top of the upper
HD110: Coil spring to replace original elastomer
tube. The later DLR (version 2.0 for the purposes of this
MC series: Coil spring, friction damper
manual) has a 40mm hex fitting on the top of the upper
DD series: Coil spring, oil damper with lockout tube. Variations in common procedures that are due to
DL series: Air spring, oil damper with lockout these differences are labeled SS100 only or 2.0 only.
Fatty: Air spring, 5-position damper, no lockout
FT: Air spring, 5-position damper, no lockout
TOOL SELECTION
Spring options Several unique Cannondale tools are needed, depend-
Models with coil/elastomer springs can be tuned for ing on the type of service being performed. The following
different rider weight and riding style with springs that list of tool names and model numbers indicates the types
have different rates. The following table shows the avail- of service for which each tool is used. Most of the tools
able spring choices for each travel variation of forks with in this list are common to performing the comparable ser-
coil/elastomer springs. vices on HeadShok forks. The castle tools are unique.
Castle tool HDTL200*
all except boot replacement
HEADSHOK COIL-SPRING OPTIONS Castle tool KT004 all except boot replacement
Travel Soft Medium Firm Bearing driver HDTL148headset-bearing replacement
60mm HD110/GRE HD110/BLU HD110/RED Bullet tool HDTL168damper overhaul
Shaft clamp HDTL187damper overhaul
70mm HD177/BLK HD177/GRY HD177/WHT Slot tool KT006 damper overhaul
80mm HD155/GRE HD155/BLU HD155/RED Migration tool KT016 damper or telescope-bearing
service
Race retainer KT002\ telescope bearing service
* SS100 only (no 40mm hex fitting on top of leg)
38 – 194
Top cap
(telescope cap)
Damper knob Air piston
Damper body Piston O-ring
Piston O-ring
Top seal head

Lockout lever Set screw and O-ring
Air cylinder
Upper-tube
collar
Piston
Metal sleeve/
lockout assembly
Cup seal**
*Installs to outside
of lower seal head
Lower seal head
** Installs inside
of lower seal head
Cup seal**
Shaft O-ring
Plastic
Spring cap
spacer
sleeve
Negative spring
Valve cap
Seal-head O-ring
Spring cap
Piston O-ring
Shims
O-ring
Shaft cap (plate)
38.41 Cannondale Lefty DLR 2.0 damper and spring.
38 – 195
In addition to other common bike-mechanic tools, a 8. [ ] Install foam filter ring over axle end, around
40mm headset-race spanner is needed on Carbon Lefty axle/lower-tube elbow, and over each disc-
models if performing any damper, spring, or battery brake mount. Then work ring into upper boot.
service. For headset-bearing installation, the best tool 9. [ ] Slide upper boot onto bottom end of upper
tube (past silver ring by about 1").
is the Park HHP-1.
10. [ ] Apply thin coating of Royal Purple grease
(Cannondale specification) to entire axle/
BOOT REPLACEMENT & elbow/disc-brake-mount area.
11. [ ] Carefully avoiding getting grease on fingers
BEARING LUBRICATION or outside of boot, install new accordion
boot (larger-end first) over axle end. Then
Telescope-bearing lubrication work boot partly around elbow.
Inspection and lubrication of the telescope bearings 12. [ ] Stretch end of boot over lower disc-brake
can be done by doing part of Boot replacement. mount, then work half of boot over mount.
1. [ ] Do Boot replacement steps 2–3. 13. [ ] Work any remaining portion of boot around
2. [ ] Do Boot replacement steps 15–17. elbow, then continue to work boot over both
Boot replacement disc-brake mounts.
14. [ ] Remove bolt from mount and clean axle/
Regular boot replacement is critical to the longevity of
elbow/disc-brake-mount area.
the telescope bearings, replacement of which can be very 15. [ ] Apply thin coating of Royal Purple grease to
time-consuming or expensive. Once a boot is torn, criti- bearing races exposed on inner tube.
cal bearing contamination starts happening immediately. 16. [ ] Seat upper end of lower boot just above sil-
Replace boots that look dry, have any superficial hairline ver ring, then overlap bottom end of upper
cracks, have lost any elasticity, or are known to be more boot with top end of lower boot.
than one year old. 17. [ ] Bearing lubrication only: Secure zip tie at
1. [ ] Loosen disc-brake mounting bolts (do not point boots overlap (procedure finished).
remove), slide disc brake out of slotted Boot replacement only: Secure boots at both
mounts, then remove front wheel (loosen ends with zip ties.
bolt on right end of axle). 18. [ ] Grease tapered cone on axle and grease
2. [ ] Bearing lubrication only: Carefully cut zip tie threads inside end of axle.
at bottom of upper boot, slide upper boot 19. [ ] Install front wheel on axle, thread in bolt,
up about 1", then slide top of bottom boot then secure bolt to 133in-lbs.
down as far as it will go. 20. [ ] Engage disc-brake caliper to slotted mounts
Boot replacement only: Cut zip ties at top, with alignment shims (if any) between
middle, and bottom ends of both boots, then mounts and caliper.
cut boots to remove. 21. [ ] Secure caliper-mounting bolts to 69–78in-lbs.
3. [ ] Carefully inspect inner telescope tube for
corrosion. NOTE: Any corrosion indicates
mandatory replacement! LEFTY DLR & LEFTY M
4. [ ] Thoroughly clean entire axle/elbow/disc-
brake-mount area
LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Leg removal is required for headset-bearing service
5. [ ] Remove foam filter ring from inside of upper
boot. and is recommended for damper/spring service and
In the next step, a bolt and nut are installed in the needle-bearing service. If not removing the leg for the
lower disc-brake mount to protect the boots (and fingers!) recommended procedures, it is still essential to remove the
from getting torn on the sharp edges of the mount. A disc-brake caliper and wheel. Use the disc-brake caliper
6x1mm socket-head bolt approximately 10mm long is and wheel removal and installation steps from the follow-
the ideal size. ing procedure (step #1 and steps #17 – #20).
6. [ ] Install bolt in lower disc-brake mount, then Removal
secure nut to bolt. 1. [ ] Loosen disc-brake mounting bolts (do not
7. [ ] Install upper boot (breathing-hole-end last) remove), slide disc brake out of slotted
over axle end, around axle/lower-tube mounts, then remove front wheel (loosen
elbow, over each disc-brake mount, and bolt on right end of axle).
onto lower tube. 2. [ ] DLR only: Turn damper knob (red) and lock-
out lever fully counterclockwise.
3. [ ] DLR only: Pull damper knob out.
38 – 196
There are two versions of the Lefty DLR and one ver- DLR 2.0 only: Install lockout lever and check
sion of the Lefty M. The early Lefty DLR (version SS100 range of motion. If lever is not in a suitable
for purposes of this procedure) does not have a 40mm hex position (should not interfere with knee or
fitting on top of the upper tube. The later DLR and the M frame and should not be pointing out to left
at any points in its range of motion), pull
(version 2.0 for the purposes of this procedure) both have
lever off and reposition.
a 40mm hex fitting on the top of the upper tube.
16. [ ] DLR only: Insert red damper knob, rotating
4. [ ] SS100 only: Use flat blade of screwdriver to
as necessary to get slot to align and allow
pry under cap (plastic lip just below lockout
knob to seat fully.
lever) to remove cap and lockout lever (do
17. [ ] Grease tapered cone on axle and grease
not separate cap and lever).
threads inside end of axle.
2.0 only: Use 40mm headset wrench to
18. [ ] Install front wheel on axle, thread in bolt,
unthread upper-tube collar. NOTE: Loose
then secure bolt to 133in-lbs.
parts are exposed by removal of upper-tube
19. [ ] Engage disc-brake caliper to slotted mounts
collar; remove metal sleeve (all) and lockout
with alignment shims (if any) between
assembly (DLR only) or handle leg so that
mounts and caliper.
parts don’t fall out.
20. [ ] Secure caliper-mounting bolts to 69–78in-lbs.
5. [ ] Measure amount upper tube protrudes above
upper crown. Protrusion: _________mm
6. [ ] Loosen upper-tube clamp bolts (upper and
lower crown), then slide upper tube down
CARBON LEFTY (DLR & ELO)
enough to clear upper crown. LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
7. [ ] Pull foam bumper off upper tube. NOTE: Inject Leg removal is required for headset-bearing service
water under foam to make this easier. and is recommended for damper/spring service and
8. [ ] Remove leg from lower crown. needle-bearing service. If not removing the leg for the
Installation recommended procedures, it is still essential to remove the
9. [ ] Align groove in upper tube with spline in disc-brake caliper and wheel. Use the disc-brake caliper
lower crown, slide upper tube into crown, and wheel removal and installation steps from the follow-
then gently secure lower-crown bolts. ing procedure (step #1 and steps #16 – #19).
10. [ ] Install foam bumper on upper tube. The ELO model has electronic lockout and is easily
11. [ ] Arrange any brake and derailleur cables that identified by the electric switch on the handlebar and the
are routed on left side of head tube to go wiring going to the leg. Any Carbon Lefty without this
between Lefty upper tube and head tube.
is the DLR version. The DLR and ELO versions of the
12. [ ] Loosen lower-crown bolts, align upper
crown with upper tube, slide upper tube
Carbon Lefty require minor differences in procedure.
into upper crown until protrusion recorded Variations in procedure due to these differences are
in step 5 is restored, then gently secure all labeled DLR only and ELO only.
upper-tube clamp bolts.
13. [ ] Remove only one upper-tube clamping bolt
Removal
1. [ ] Loosen disc-brake mounting bolts (do not
from either crown, treat threads with Loctite remove), slide disc brake out of slotted
242, then secure to 55–65in-lbs. Repeat for mounts, then remove front wheel (loosen
all upper-tube clamping bolts. bolt on right end of axle).
NOTE: When securing double bolts, always 2. [ ] ELO only: Clip zip tie that secures ELO
alternate between bolts repeatedly until both switch to handlebar, then wind up wiring
bolts won’t turn at desired torque! and switch so they can be neatly secured to
14. [ ] SS100 only: Push cap/lockout-lever assembly upper tube with zip tie or tape.
into upper tube, rotating lever as necessary 3. [ ] Remove stem.
to allow assembly to seat fully. 4. [ ] Loosen clamp bolts on upper and lower fork
2.0 only: Install metal sleeve (all) and lock- crowns.
out assembly (DLR only) if removed. Treat 5. [ ] Strike top of fork column with plastic mallet
upper-tube collar threads with Loctite 242, to break column free of bearings. Use plastic
then secure to 250in-lbs. or wood dowel to finish removing column.
15. [ ] SS100 only: If lever is not in a suitable 6. [ ] Pull leg to side to remove assembly from
position (should not interfere with knee or head tube.
frame and should not be pointing out at any
points in its range of motion), pull lever off
and reposition.
38 – 197
Installation 7. [ ] Install bearing and bottom plate of HHP-1

(without stepped pilot) onto bottom of HHP-1.
7. [ ] Position left-side routed brake and derailleur
cables between upper and lower crowns 8. [ ] Watching alignment carefully, tighten HHP-1
while sliding leg assembly over ends off just enough to seat both bearings fully, then
head tube (cables must end up between remove tool.
head tube and leg). 9. [ ] All except Carbon: Perform steps 9–20 of
8. [ ] Place upper-bearing seal over upper bearing. LEFTY DLR & LEFTY M LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
9. [ ] Align holes in crowns with holes in headset Carbon only: Perform steps 7–19 of CARBON
bearings, then insert fork column from below. LEFTY (DLR & ELO) LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
10. [ ] Tap bottom of fork column with plastic mal- 10. [ ] All except Carbon: Install and align stem on
let until fully seated (if column binds, check fork column.
alignments and check for tight clamp bolts). 11. [ ] All except Carbon: Secure stem bolt(s) to
11. [ ] Install and align stem on fork column. Cannondale’s recommended torque:
12. [ ] Secure stem bolt(s) to Cannondale’s recom- Single bolt: 120–144in-lbs
mended torque: Double bolt: 77–94in-lbs
Single bolt: 120–144in-lbs NOTE: When securing double bolts, always
Double bolt: 77–94in-lbs alternate between bolts repeatedly until both
NOTE: When securing double bolts, always bolts won’t turn at desired torque!
alternate between bolts repeatedly until both
bolts won’t turn at desired torque!
13. [ ] ELO only: Reinstall ELO switch to handlebar.
CARBON LEFTY ELO
14. [ ] Remove clamp bolts from fork crown and
treat threads with Loctite 242.
BATTERY REPLACEMENT
The battery can be replaced by using steps from the
15. [ ] Install clamp bolts and secure to 75–85in-lbs. DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD section.
16. [ ] Grease tapered cone on axle and grease 1. [ ] Do DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps 4–5 (ignore
threads inside end of axle. pulling wire and switch through collar).
17. [ ] Install front wheel on axle, thread in bolt, 2. [ ] Do DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps 50–54.
then secure bolt to 133in-lbs.
18. [ ] Engage disc-brake caliper to slotted mounts
with alignment shims (if any) between
mounts and caliper.
LEFTY SPRING SERVICE AND
19. [ ] Secure caliper-mounting bolts to 69–78in-lbs. DAMPER REPLACEMENT
The air spring can be serviced or the Lefty M main
coil spring replaced.
LEFTY HEADSET-BEARING 1. [ ] Do DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps 1–15.
SERVICE 2. [ ] Do DAMPER & SPRING REBUILD steps 39–56.
The headset (steering) bearings are cartridge bearings
that can be replaced if they feel tight, gritty, or sloppy.
1. [ ] All except Carbon: Perform steps 1–8 of
LEFTY DAMPER & SPRING
LEFTY DLR & LEFTY M LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION. REBUILD
Carbon only: Perform steps 1–6 of CARBON
LEFTY (DLR & ELO) LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
Disassembly
1. [ ] All except Carbon: Perform steps 1–8 of
2. [ ] All except Carbon: Loosen stem bolts and
LEFTY DLR & LEFTY M LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
remove stem.
Carbon only: Perform steps 1–6 of CARBON
3. [ ] All except Carbon: Strike top of fork column
LEFTY (DLR & ELO) LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
with plastic mallet to break column free of
2. [ ] All except Carbon: Carefully clamp upper
bearings. Use plastic or wood dowel to fin-
tube in bike-stand clamp.
ish removing column.
Carbon only: Install fork column into crowns,
4. [ ] Use a punch to remove bearings from both
secure crown bolts, then carefully clamp fork
ends of head tube.
column in bike-stand clamp.
5. [ ] Treat outside of new bearings with Loctite
3. [ ] 2.0 DLR only: Turn red damper knob and
242.
lockout lever fully counterclockwise, then pull
6. [ ] Assemble bearing to top of head tube, then
off knob and lever.
install Park HHP-1 (without stepped pilot)
into bearing and head tube.
38 – 198
4. [ ] Carbon DLR only: Use 40mm headset 12. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Withdraw cartridge from tele-
wrench to unthread upper-tube collar. scope assembly and remove castle-slider tool.
Carbon ELO only: Use 40mm headset M only: Withdraw cartridge from telescope
wrench to unthread upper-tube collar. Sepa- assembly.
rate ELO switch from upper tube (if secured 13. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Turn leg over so air cartridge
there during leg removal), then pull wire and drops out top of telescope assembly.
switch through collar. M only: Turn leg over so spring drops out
5. [ ] DLR/M 2.0 only: With leg fully compressed, top of telescope assembly.
remove metal sleeve (all) and lockout assem- 14. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Use hand pump to carefully
bly (DLR only). and slowly inflate air-spring cartridge to
ELO only: With leg fully compressed, care- remove air piston.
fully pull up ELO controller (do not wiggle 15. [ ] Holding damper cartridge upright, slowly
forcefully), then pull battery out. pump damper shaft up and down, feeling for
6. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Remove rubber plug from bot- irregular resistance and listening for noises.
tom of leg, then remove valve cap. Either symptom indicates oil loss and need
M only: Remove rubber plug from bottom for replacement of all seals in cartridge.
of leg. NOTE: Before proceeding, telescope-bearing con-
7. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Measure existing pressure dition should be inspected. See CANNONDALE
and record here: _________ psi TELESCOPE-BEARING SERVICE steps 2–4 now!
M only: Counting turns, use hex key to turn
hex-socket bolt in bottom of leg fully coun- Oil-damper service
terclockwise: _________ turns NOTE: Steps 16–38 are for oil-damper service only.
8. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Pressurize fork and check For installation of new damper, skip to step 39.
for air loss at valve (if air is lost, tighten or In the next two steps, a plate is removed from the
replace valve core). Pressure loss without bottom end of the damper shaft. Not all versions have
leaks at valve indicates O-rings on air piston this plate, in which case these steps are skipped.
need replacement. 16. [ ] Use Cannondale shaft clamps to clamp onto
In the next three steps, one of two Lefty castle-tool sets bottom end of damper shaft so damper is
is used, depending on whether the fork is the SS100 or 2.0 upside down in vise. NOTE: Damper will be
variety. The SS100 requires the HDTL200 castle-tool set, destroyed in this step if clamped on end of
shaft with telescope cap!
and the 2.0 requires the KT004 castle-tool set. Both sets
17. [ ] Use pin spanner to unthread plate from end
consist of a longer castle tool with a hole for a 3/8" driver of shaft, then remove damper from vise.
and a shorter castle tool called the castle slider. The castle 18. [ ] Remove washers, spring-end plates, spring,
slider is the same on both tools and has four prongs on one and O-ring from shaft.
end and a wide slot in the other end. The castle tool for the 19. [ ] Remove plastic sleeve from end of cartridge
HDTL200 also has four prongs on the end, but the KT004 body.
castle tool has four wide tabs protruding from the end. 20. [ ] Hold damper body upside down in one hand
9. [ ] SS100 only: Use HDTL200 castle tool and use plastic slot-tool to unthread slotted
to unthread shaft cap (2-3" down inside cap from bottom end of damper body (be
upper tube). prepared for oil to spill out).
M only: With leg compressed, use open-end 21. [ ] Turn damper body over and pump oil into
wrench on shaft flats to hold shaft station- waste receptacle.
ary while using hex key to unthread bolt in 22. [ ] Remove set screw (if any) from side of
shaft cap, then remove shaft cap. damper body with #1 Phillips screwdriver.
10. [ ] DLR/ELO only: With leg compressed, slide 23. [ ] Use pin spanner to remove upper body cap
castle-slider tool fully onto square head just from body, then withdraw shaft and piston
below shaft cap, then deflate fork. assembly from damper body.
11. [ ] SS100 only: While compressing fork fully, 24. [ ] Clean all parts with warm soapy water, then
engage HDTL200 tool to shaft cap, push in dry thoroughly with lint-free paper shop tow-
firmly on tool, then turn tool counterclock- els and/or compressed air.
wise to unthread damper cartridge. 25. [ ] Replace rings and seals on both body caps,
DLR/ELO 2.0 only: Engage KT004 castle damper piston, air piston, and Phillips screw.
tool to shaft cap to unthread cartridge. 26. [ ] Install damper-shaft assembly into top (wide)
M only: Engage KT004 castle tool to damper end of damper body, then secure top body
cartridge to unthread cartridge. cap with pin spanner.
27. [ ] Install Phillips screw in side of damper body.
38 – 199
28. [ ] Use shaft clamps to clamp damper assembly 43. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Drop air cylinder (valve-end
upside down in vise (clamp on upper end of first) into telescope assembly.
shaft as close to telescope cap as possible). M only: Drop preload assembly into telescope
29. [ ] Pull damper body fully up, then fill body (adjuster-bolt first), then drop thoroughly
with Spectro SX 400 shock oil to 8mm greased spring into telescope assembly.
from end of body. NOTE: Before installing damper into telescope,
30. [ ] Slowly and carefully, pump body up and confirm O-ring is present at top end of threads!
down 5–10 times, then allow air bubbles on 44. [ ] DLR/ELO only:
top of oil to fully dissipate. a. Slide castle slider onto square head
31. [ ] Place Cannondale shaft bullet on top of under shaft cap.
shaft, then slide body cap (threaded-end b. Compress damper and engage tool
first) fully onto shaft. prongs to notches in damper body.
32. [ ] Remove shaft bullet, then engage plastic c. Turn damper rod (flat tab) fully clockwise.
slot tool to bottom body cap. d. Treat damper threads with Loctite 242.
33. [ ] Hold body stationary and thread bottom e. Drop damper assembly into telescope.
body cap into body just until O-ring reaches M only: Pull damper shaft fully up, treat
end of body. Watch for oil overflow (lack of damper threads with Loctite 242, then drop
overflow indicates insufficient oil quantity). damper assembly into telescope.
Continue to slowly thread in cap, periodi- 45. [ ] SS100 only: Pressing lower tube up fully for
cally backing cap out a few degrees to allow duration of this step, insert HDTL200 tool into
excess oil to escape past O-ring, until entire upper tube and engage tool prongs to shaft
O-ring is fully inside body. cap. Turn tool clockwise to thread in cartridge,
34. [ ] Place small O-ring over end of shaft. then remove HDTL200.
35. [ ] Attach spring caps to spring and install DLR/ELO 2.0 only: Pressing lower tube up
spring over shaft. fully for duration of this step, insert KT004
36. [ ] Place washers on top of spring cap. tool into upper tube and engage tool prongs
37. [ ] Shaft-plate models only: Treat shaft-end to shaft cap. Turn tool clockwise to thread in
plate threads with Loctite 242, then gently cartridge, then remove KT004.
secure into shaft. M only: Engage KT004 castle tool to damper
38. [ ] Engage plastic sleeve to end of damper body. cartridge to thread in cartridge.
46. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Inflate air spring to 50psi,
Assembly push lower tube up, then remove castle-
39. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Lubricate air-piston O-rings, slider tool.
insert air piston flat-end first into air cylin- 47. [ ] SS100 only: Treat shaft-cap threads with
der, then use dowel to press piston in fully Loctite 242, use HDTL200 castle tool to
(opening air valve will allow easier insertion). thread in shaft cap, then secure cap to
40. [ ] Thread bearing-migration tool fully into top of 250in-lbs.
telescope assembly. M only: Treat shaft-cap-bolt threads with
41. [ ] SS100 only: With telescope fully extended, Loctite 242. With leg compressed, place
check whether top of telescope tube is within shaft cap on shaft, thread in bolt, then use
range of ’00 Lefty slot of migration tool or up open-end wrench on shaft flats to hold shaft
to 1mm above slot (ideal). stationary while using hex key to secure bolt.
2.0 non-Carbon only: With telescope fully 48. [ ] DLR/ELO only: Inflate air spring to 110% of
extended, check whether top of telescope original pressure recorded in step 6. Install
tube is within range of ’01 Lefty slot of migra- valve cap, then install plug into elbow. NOTE:
tion tool or up to 1mm above slot (ideal). In absence of valid initial pressure reading,
Carbon only: With telescope fully extended, start with 70% of rider weight (200psi max.).
check whether top of telescope tube is within M only: Restore preload setting recorded in
range of Carbon Lefty slot of migration tool step 6, then install plug into elbow.
or up to 1mm above slot (ideal). 49. [ ] All except Carbon: Perform steps 9–20 of
42. [ ] If top of telescope is below recommended LEFTY DLR & LEFTY M LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
slot, tap gently down with migration tool until Carbon only: Remove fork column from
top of tube is within recommended range. crowns, then perform steps 7–19 of CARBON
LEFTY (DLR & ELO) LEG REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(skip attaching ELO switch to handlebar).
38 – 200
50. [ ] Carbon DLR only: Install metal spacer sleeve travel for big hits. On forks with coil springs, the preload
and lockout assembly into upper tube. adjustment and the spring rate determines the amount
Carbon ELO only: With fork compressed, of sag. A more clockwise preload adjustment or a stiffer
install battery into upper tube so terminals spring creates less sag. A more counterclockwise preload
snap in to place.
adjustment or a softer spring creates more sag. More sag
51. [ ] Carbon ELO only: With fork compressed,
provides overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of
rotate battery and shaft cap clockwise
together until three metal pins (in shaft cap) available travel for big hits.
are on right side of battery and two metal Check sag by measuring the change in accordion-boot
pins are on left side. length between when the rider is off and on the bike.
52. [ ] Carbon ELO only: Inspect bottom of ELO con- Cannondale recommends the following amounts of sag,
troller to find double and triple sockets that depending on the maximum travel of the fork.
correspond to double and triple pin sets. 85mm travel: 6.0–9.5mm
53. [ ] Carbon ELO only: Insert ELO controller into 100mm travel: 12.5–16.0mm
upper tube so sockets line up with pins. If in On the Lefty M, if the desired sag amount cannot be
correctly, wire should point to front.
set by the preload adjustment, a softer or stiffer spring is
54. [ ] Carbon DLR only: Treat upper-tube collar
needed. If the correct sag can be set, but the fork never
threads with Loctite 242, thread onto upper
tube, then secure to 250in-lbs. bottoms, a softer spring is needed. If the correct sag can be
Carbon ELO only: Treat upper-tube collar set, but the fork bottoms too frequently, a stiffer spring is
threads with Loctite 242, insert switch and needed. In the following table, Lefty M spring sets include
wire through collar, thread collar onto upper matching positive and negative springs. Damper removal is
tube, then secure to 250in-lbs. required to change either, and minor damper disassembly
55. [ ] Carbon DLR only: Install lockout lever and is needed to change the negative spring.
check range of motion. If lever is not in a On the DLR and ELO Lefty forks, sag is adjusted by
suitable position (should not interfere with changing air pressure, but there are various rates of nega-
knee or frame and should not be pointing out
tive springs for different rider weight ranges. The negative
to left at any points in its range of motion),
spring has two functions. The firmer the negative spring,
pull lever off and reposition.
Carbon ELO only: Secure ELO switch to han- the more responsive the fork is to initial compression. The
dlebar with zip tie. negative spring is also a top-out spring. In the following
56. [ ] Carbon DLR only: Insert red damper knob, table, DLR and ELO springs are negative springs only.
rotating as necessary to get slot to align and Damper removal and minor damper disassembly is needed
allow knob to seat fully. to change the negative spring.
Use the following guidelines to select the best spring
TUNING OPTIONS rate by rider weight:
<150lbs soft rate
Head-tube angle adjustment 140–180lbs medium rate
The Lefty M and Lefty DLR can be adjusted for head- >200lbs firm rate
tube angle by changing the position of the upper tube in LEFTY COIL-SPRING OPTIONS
the crowns. NOTE: The distance from the top of the Fork Soft Medium Firm
tire to the bottom of the lower crown must never be
M HD219/GRE HD219/BLU HD219/RED
less than 110mm! This value insures that there will always
DLR HD212/GRE HD212/BLU HD212/RED
be tire clearance, even when the fork is fully compressed.
The Carbon Lefty forks are not adjustable for head-tube ELO HD212/GRE HD212/BLU HD212/RED
angle. Use Loctite 242 and proper torquing technique.
CANNONDALE TELESCOPE-
On forks with air springs, the air pressure determines
the sag. A pressure near the top of the recommended
BEARING SERVICE
Telescope-bearing service presents the mechanic
range creates less sag. A pressure near the bottom of the with several challenges. Anticipate that initial attempts
recommended range creates more sag. More sag provides will take an inordinate amount of time and patience, and
overall comfort, but it reduces the amount of available
38 – 201
that without frequent repetition, little improvement will 5. [ ] All except Carbon: Clamp outer tube gently in
be made in this regard. bike-stand clamp (tube should be horizontal).
Additionally, it is challenging to have an adequate inven- Carbon only: Clamp fork column gently in
tory of parts. One fork has four needle-bearing strips (same bike-stand clamp (tube should be horizontal).
6. [ ] HeadShok only: Use pin spanner to unthread
strips used in all forks), four outer races, and four inner
cap on bottom end of outer tube.
races. Due to different lengths and thicknesses of bearing
Lefty only: Use pin spanner to unthread
races, a minimum of eight sets of outer bearing races and cap on bottom end of outer tube, then
43 sets of inner races are needed to be adequately prepared remove outer-race retaining clip at bottom
to service any HeadShok or Lefty fork. of outer tube (see outer-race retaining clip
When sizing inner bearing races, there is a trial-and- removal steps a–c below).
error process of selecting the correct race thickness that a. Push lower telescope in until bottom ends
could involve selecting from up to 11 different thickness of inner races are 4–5mm inside upper tube.
races up to 15–20 times. These races differ by .001" b. Depress end of one outer race, then use
(.254mm) increments and are unmarked. A high-quality seal pick to pull clip out at that race.
c. Continue to work around outer tube,
micrometer or digital caliper that reads in ten-thousandth-
depressing end of each outer race and pull-
inch (or thousandth-millimeter) increments is needed to
ing clip out at that point.
keep track of the sizes, or the mechanic must have a flaw- 7. [ ] ’99–’03 only: Insert race clip tool into top of
lessly meticulous nature to keep track of the different sizes telescope so lobes are between races, then
and not get them mixed up. rotate tool to disengage clip (remove clip).
To date, Cannondale has maintained a successful 8. [ ] Insert rubber end of race-clip tool about
factory-service program for shops and mechanics who half way into outer tube (pushing down
decide that telescope-bearing service is impractical. inner tube).
9. [ ] Move one of rubber bands down to secure
Evaluation inner races to inner tube.
Unless clear symptoms (bearing slop or bearing tight- 10. [ ] Withdraw inner tube until about 1" of each
ness) already exist, partial disassembly of the HeadShok bearing strip is exposed, then move other
or Lefty is required to determine if the telescope bearings rubber band down to secure bearing strips.
need service. 11. [ ] Withdraw inner tube fully.
1. [ ] Use appropriate procedure to remove spring 12. [ ] Remove four outer races from outer tube,
and damper cartridge from fork. then clean and inspect races. If outer races
2. [ ] With bike upright and head tube close to ver- are stained, corroded, or pitted, measure
tical, push fork up fully and observe rate of length and thickness and record here:
drop when fork is released. Ideally, fork should length: ______mm/in thickness: ______mm/in
drop slowly and reach full extension. If fork 13. [ ] Remove needle-bearing strips, leaving inner
does not drop fully, or drops suddenly with a races on inner telescope tube.
clunk, telescope bearings need service. 14. [ ] Mark four inner races A, B, C, and D going
3. [ ] If fork appears to be satisfactory in step 2, clockwise from front-of-fork mark on inner
grasp bottom of fork and jerk it forward and tube.
back, as is checking for a loose headset. If 15. [ ] Remove four inner races from inner tube.
knock is felt, telescope bearings need service.
4. [ ] If fork appears to be satisfactory in steps
16. [ ] Clean and inspect four inner races (one at
2 and 3, slowly push fork up and down.
time) and re-mark each one after it is cleaned.
Smooth drag is normal, but gritty sensations
17. [ ] If any inner races are pitted, stained, or cor-
or inconsistent drag indicate telescope bear-
roded, or telescope had free play or was too
ings need service.
tight, inner races need to be replaced.
Disassembly 18. [ ] Clean inside of outer tube and outside of
1. [ ] Perform appropriate procedure to remove inner tube.
fork, spring and damper system, and boots. 19. [ ] Inspect headset bearing on outer tube for
2. [ ] Make mark on front of inner telescope tube grittiness or excess play. If worn, tap it off
to indicate front of bike. with mallet, then use Cannondale bearing
3. [ ] Make mark on front of outer telescope tube driver to install new bearing.
to indicate front of bike. 20. [ ] Inspect inner tube for any signs of corrosion.
4. [ ] Put two rubber bands on bottom end of NOTE: Any corrosion is safety hazard; inner
outer tube just above bearing. tube should not be reinstalled!
38 – 202
NOTE: If all bearings and races are in good condi- 26. [ ] Slide inner tube into outer tube slowly, just
tion, and there were no symptoms encountered until second rubber band reaches outer
during evaluation steps, skip to step 30. tube. Watch for outer races pushing out top
of outer tube and inner races sliding down
Sizing inner races inner tube. Reposition races as needed.
If the telescope has free play or excess friction, or Leave outer race retaining tool just engaged
if you lost track of the correct positions for the inner in top end of outer tube.
races, the following trial-and-error method must be used 27. [ ] Wiggle inner tube side to side on A/C axis
to determine which races go in which position. and observe whether there is free play
The following steps are the exact procedure used (knock). Wiggle inner tube side to side on
to size the inner races. The general approach is to start B/D axis and observe whether there is free
with thinnest inner races to create a deliberately sloppy play (knock).
28. [ ] If there is knock, replace one of inner races
fit, then gradually increase race thickness until slop is just
on that axis (A/C and/or B/D) with next-
eliminated. Finally increase race thicknesses by a pre-deter-
thicker race. Be sure to put rubber band
mined amount to create a precise interference fit. back on bearing strips before inner tube
NOTE: Inner races vary by thickness, length, and is fully removed. Each time there is still
type (clip holes or no clip holes). Length and type knock, replace race that was not replaced
must always match originals! The sizing proce- in previous test (in example tests below,
dure is only to determine correct thickness. strikethrough values need replacement and
21. [ ] Put thinnest available inner race on each of italic value is next dimension change to
four flats on inner tube. Check each race for make).
bow, then position it so center of race bows A/C knock test 1:
out from inner tube. Retain four inner races A=.021" & C=.021" (knock still detected)
at bottom end with rubber band (about 1/2" A=.022" & C=.021" (increase A)
from bottom ends of inner races). If inner A/C knock test 2:
races have holes for race clip to engage, A=.022" & C=.021" (knock still detected)
just portion of race with hole should extend A=.022" & C=.022" (increase C)
beyond top of inner tube. A/C knock test 3:
22. [ ] HeadShok only: Install four outer races A=.022" & C=.022" (knock still detected)
(matching length and thickness of origi- A=.023" & C=.022" (increase A)
nals) in grooves in outer tube. If any race 29. [ ] When knock has been eliminated in both axes
is bowed, install it so it bows in at center. (they will not necessarily both take same num-
Install races so bottom ends are flush with ber of adjustments), remove assembly one
bottom end of outer tube. Retain races by more time. This time, increase all four races
inserting rubber end of race-clip tool into top by one thickness each (in examples below,
end of outer tube (about halfway into tube). strikethrough values are dimensions when
Lefty only: Install four outer races (matching knock was eliminated in both axis, and bold
length and thickness of originals) in grooves values are final dimension changes to make).
in outer tube. If any race is bowed, install it Example 1, knock eliminated in both axis:
so it bows in at center. Install races so cut- A=.023", C=.023", B=.023", D=.023"
outs are just concealed in outer tube. Retain A=.024", C=.024", B=.024", D=.024"
races by inserting rubber end of race-clip tool Example 2, knock eliminated in both axis:
into top end of outer tube (mostly into tube). A=.022", C=.023", B=.025", D=.024"
23. [ ] Secure four bearing strips to inner races A=.023", C=.024", B=.026", D=.025"
(wide face of retainer should be against
inner race) with rubber band. Assembly
24. [ ] Slide bearing strips up until half of each one 30. [ ] ’99–’03 only: When final races are being
is extending beyond top ends of inner races, installed, position them so any bows are
and position rubber band so it is about 1/2" bowing out at center and holes for clip are
below top end of inner tube. just above top of inner tube. Then secure
25. [ ] Make sure front mark on inner tube is ori- them with rubber band at their bottom ends.
ented to front mark on outer tube, then Pre-’99 only: When final races are being
carefully insert inner-tube assembly into installed, position them so any bows are
outer tube until rubber band retaining bear- bowing out at center and ends are flush
ing strips reaches bottom of outer tube. with top of inner tube. Then secure them
Then move rubber band onto outer tube. with rubber band at their bottom ends.
38 – 203
31. [ ] Grease bearing strips (Cannondale requires
use of Royal Purple grease), then secure FOX ’02–’03 FORKS
them again to inner races with half their This section covers the 2002–2003 Vanilla R, RL, and
length protruding beyond inner races. RLC forks, and the 2002–2003 Float R, RL, and RLC
32. [ ] Carefully insert assembly into outer tube, cor- forks, in all travel configurations.
recting race creep as it happens.
33. [ ] HeadShok only: Remove rubber band around
bearing strips when it reaches outer tube. TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
Lefty only: Remove rubber band around The following list of tools are required to perform
inner races when it reaches outer tube. complete service of these forks, in addition to com-
Push inner tube in until ends of inner races mon wrenches, sockets, a high-quality shock pump, and
are 4–5mm inside outer tube, then engage a torque wrench.
outer-race clip to races.
34. [ ] Remove rubber band around inner races SPECIAL TOOLS
when it reaches outer tube, then push inner Tool Function
tube in fully. 1.5mm hex key RLC lockout-lever set screws
35. [ ] HeadShok only: Inspect inner strips at top 2.0mm hex key all other set screws
of inner tube. If strip is low but hole is par-
26mm socket* stanchion caps
tially exposed, use flat screwdriver as a
lever to pry strip further out until all strips Park OBW-2 12mm thin wrench for removing
are even and all holes are exposed enough stanchion cap from damper
to engage clip. NOTE: If strips cannot be 13mm crowfoot damper service
adequately evened, repeat assembly proce- 16mm crowfoot damper service
dure from step 30. Fox shaft clamp damper service
36. [ ] HeadShok only: Inspect outer strips at top #803-00-080
end of outer tube. If at least three threads 320 grit sandpaper damper service
are exposed above each strip, heights can
be evened by temporarily installing telescope *A 26mm socket is required for use on low-profile
cap. NOTE: If strips are too high, repeat fittings. These types of fittings require modification of
assembly procedure from step 30. the socket to achieve acceptable purchase. Sockets typi-
37. [ ] Treat threads on bottom end of outer tube cally have a bevel in the end that causes the internal flats
with Loctite 242, then gently secure cap on to start a millimeter or more from the end of the socket.
bottom end of outer tube with pin spanner. File the socket end so the internal flats start immediately
38. [ ] ’99–’03 only: Push inner tube fully up, then
place retaining clip on top of inner tube with
In addition to common solvents, cleansers, Loctite,
four tabs in gaps between inner races.
39. [ ] ’99–’03 only: Insert retaining-clip tool into and other regular supplies, Fox Suspension Fluid #025-
assembly so four lobes are positioned above 03-004-A is required. Due to a viscosity outside the range
four clip tabs, then press tool in and rotate of virtually all other bicycle shock oils, no substitutions
tool to engage clip tabs in race holes. are recommended.
40. [ ] Thread bearing-migration tool fully into inner
tube, then repeatedly push it down into
assembly (using gentle force) until appropri- SPRING CHANGE ONLY
ate depth mark is even with (or below) top The Vanilla models have a coil spring that can be
of outer tube. Distinct bottoming sensation changed to customized the performance of the fork for
will be felt when bearing strips are correctly an individual rider. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this
positioned. Remove migration tool. section for spring choices.
41. [ ] Turn fork upside down and pull legs and 1. [ ] Do FULL FORK TEARDOWN steps 1 and 8.
inner tube up, then release them. If tele- 2. [ ] Replace spring.
scope collapses under its own weight, then 3. [ ] Do FULL FORK REBUILD steps 71 and 72.
correct thicknesses of inner races have been
used. If it will not compress without press-
ing it together by hand, then thickness of
inner races needs to be reduced on either or
both A/C axis and B/D axis.
42. [ ] Install boot, spring, and damper assembly,
then install fork, stem, and wheel.
38 – 204
Rebound knob
Stanchion cap
Lockout lever
Rebound adjuster
Travel spacer Compression knob
Lockout adjuster
Travel spacer
Detent ball and spring
Helper
spring
Stanchion cap
Spring Compression needle

(partial) Upper seal head
Compression spring
13mm shim
Sleeve
Spring washer Compression valve
18mm shim 21.5mm shim
Split ring 16.5mm shim
Rebound piston
Travel spacer
Top-out spring 17mm shim
13mm shim Rebound-
Rebound-piston bolt adjuster base
Plunger
Bolt Travel spacer
O-ring
Stanchion Stanchion Detent screw, ball,
(partial) (partial) and spring (one set
per side)
Rebound damper
Damper body
Wiper seal Check-valve bolt
Blow-off piston
Spiral spring
Foam ring
Blow-off spring
Adjuster screw
Slider Slider
(partial) (partial)
18mm shim
Crush washer Base valve
Bottom nut
Detent screw, spring, and ball

Lockout-threshold knob
38.42 Fox ’02 Vanilla RLC fork.
38 – 205
TRAVEL CHANGE ONLY Recording settings

1. [ ] Vanilla only: Counting clicks, rotate preload
Vanilla models knob on left stanchion cap fully counter-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK TEARDOWN steps 1–12, 23 clockwise: _____ clicks.
(inspect and remove any damaged O-rings Float only: Unthread valve cap on top of
from stud on bottom of plunger), and 24–29. left leg, then measure existing air pressure:
2. [ ] Push slider up, then remove travel spacers _____ psi. NOTE: If pressure is low, inflate
from damper assembly. and use soapy water to check for leaks at
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK REBUILD steps 53–55 and 62–74. valve or at perimeter of stanchion cap.
Note that when changing the travel, a spring change 2. [ ] Counting clicks, rotate red rebound-damper
may be needed, even though the rider’s weight has not knob fully counterclockwise: _____ clicks.
changed. See TUNING OPTIONS at the end of this section 3. [ ] RL/RLC only: Turn blue lockout lever fully
for information on spring rates. counterclockwise.
4. [ ] RLC only: Counting clicks, turn blue adjuster
Float models knob located under lockout lever fully coun-
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK TEARDOWN steps 1, 6–12, and 23. terclockwise: _____ clicks.
2. [ ] Inspect and remove any damaged O-rings from NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position with bot-
stud on bottom of plunger and air piston. tom ends of sliders about 1/2" below top ends
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK REBUILD steps 53–55 and 71–73. of sliders.
5. [ ] RLC only: Counting clicks, turn blue lockout-
OIL CHANGE ONLY threshold knob fully counterclockwise:

_____ clicks.
Changing oil on Vanilla and Float models requires
such a high degree of teardown that unless the fork has Left-leg disassembly
NOTE: This fork has an unusual number of parts,
seen very little use since it was new or fully serviced, it
often with very minor differences between tiny
may be more practical to just do a full service.
similar parts. Follow good mechanical practice
1. [ ] Do FULL FORK TEARDOWN steps 1–31 and 65.
and lay out all parts as they are removed in a
2. [ ] Pump damper assembly clear of oil and
meticulous sequential arrangement on an oil-
thoroughly clean stanchions.
absorbent mat or lint-free paper shop towels!
3. [ ] Do FULL FORK REBUILD steps 47–75.
6. [ ] Use 10mm socket to unthread left-side bot-
tom nut. NOTE: If shaft seems to spin with
FULL FORK TEARDOWN nut, push slider up firmly while using ratchet
to spin nut quickly.
This procedure covers Vanilla (coil spring) and
7. [ ] Use seal pick to remove crush washer from
Float (air spring) models. Variations in procedure due to nut, then thread nut back on 3–4 threads.
these differences are labeled Vanilla only or Float only. 8. [ ] Vanilla only: Use 26mm socket to unthread
Each of these model series are available in R, RL, and left stanchion cap, then remove cap, spac-
RLC sub-models, which are different damper configura- ers (if any), and spring.
tions. The R dampers have a single damping adjustment Float only: Depressurize air valve, then use
(rebound) on top of the right stanchion. The RL has 26mm socket to unthread and remove left
the same rebound damper and also has a lockout lever stanchion cap.
located immediately below the rebound knob. The RLC 9. [ ] Vanilla only: Plug top of stanchion with wad
has a third knob (a compression damper) underneath of lint-free paper shop towels.
Float only: Pour fluid out top of left stan-
the lockout lever and also has a lockout-threshold
chion, then plug top of stanchion with wad
adjuster on the bottom of the right slider. Variations of lint-free paper shop towels.
in procedure due to these different dampers are labeled 10. [ ] Use plastic mallet to tap on bottom nut,
RL only, RLC only, or RL/RLC only. then remove nut.
NOTE: Fork should be removed from bike and 11. [ ] With waste cup positioned below left slider,
clamped in bike-stand clamp in normal vertical rotate slider to vertical position, then pump
position with back side facing you for follow- slider to drain oil into cup (expect about 20cc).
ing “right” and “left” references to correspond. 12. [ ] Plug hole with small wad of lint-free paper
shop towels.
38 – 206
Right-leg disassembly 29. [ ] Use 26mm socket to unthread stanchion cap.

30. [ ] Pull out stanchion cap and damper assembly.
NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position with
bottom ends of sliders about 2" above top Damper-assembly tear down
ends of sliders. 31. [ ] Use Park OBW-2 to hold flats just below
13. [ ] RLC only: Use 2mm hex key to loosen set stanchion cap while using 26mm socket to
screw, then pull off lockout-threshold knob. unthread cap.
14. [ ] Use 10mm socket to unthread right-side bot- 32. [ ] Pull cap off shaft, watching for shim wash-
tom nut. NOTE: If shaft seems to spin with ers (2) stuck on bottom of cap or remaining
nut, push slider up firmly while using ratchet behind on shaft.
to spin nut quickly. 33. [ ] Remove shims.
15. [ ] Use seal pick to remove crush washer from 34. [ ] Use seal pick to carefully work damper pis-
nut, then thread nut back on 3–4 threads. ton out of bottom end of cap.
16. [ ] Place 10mm socket on nut, use plastic mal- 35. [ ] Remove spring and compression-damper
let to tap on socket, then remove nut. needle from underside of cap.
17. [ ] With waste cup positioned below left slider, 36. [ ] Use lockout lever to unthread lockout
rotate slider to vertical position, then pump adjuster from top of cap.
slider up and down to drain oil into cup 37. [ ] Use brass radius blocks to clamp damper
(expect about 100–120cc). body in soft jaws in vise, then tighten vise.
18. [ ] Plug hole with small wad of lint-free paper 38. [ ] Vanilla only: Remove travel spacers (if any)
shop towels. from rebound-shaft assembly. Circle spacers
Slider/plunger/damper removal present: None---20mm---25mm
39. [ ] Vanilla only: Push helper spring up from car-
NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position with
bottom ends of sliders about 2" above top tridge body, then use 16mm open-end wrench
ends of sliders. to unthread seal head from top of body.
19. [ ] Being prepared for more oil, pull slider off Float only: Use 16mm open-end wrench to
stanchions. unthread seal head from top of body.
20. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from wiper seals. 40. [ ] Pull shaft assembly out of body.
21. [ ] Using 1/8" screwdriver in notches under 41. [ ] Remove body from vise, then drain oil into
wiper-seal lips, carefully pry out wiper seals waste receptacle.
and remove foam rings. 42. [ ] Install damper body upside down in brass
22. [ ] Remove towel plug from top of left stanchion. blocks (in vise).
23. [ ] Vanilla only: Push plunger shaft out top of left 43. [ ] Use 13mm open-end wrench to unthread
stanchion, then remove travel spacers (if any) base valve from damper body.
from plunger shaft and record spacers here: 44. [ ] RLC only: Use 2mm hex key to remove set
Circle spacers present: None---20mm---25mm screw, detent spring, and detent ball from
Float only: Push air-piston assembly out side of base valve.
top of left stanchion, then remove black 45. [ ] Clamp 13mm open-end wrench in soft jaws
travel spacer (if any) from shaft and circle (in vise) with open end protruding from end
spacer found here: None---20mm (1) of vise, then place base valve upside down
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. in wrench.
24. [ ] Use 2mm hex key to remove bolt in 46. [ ] RLC only: Use 12mm socket to remove check-
rebound-damper knob, then pull of rebound- valve bolt from end of base valve, watching
damper knob. carefully for spring and shim below bolt.
25. [ ] RL/RLC only: Use 1.5mm hex key to loosen 47. [ ] Remove spiral spring and shim from base
set screws in top of lockout lever 2 turns valve.
each. NOTE: Do not remove screws; tiny 48. [ ] Remove blow-off piston and blow-spring
ball bearings will be lost! from base valve. (RL only, additional spring
26. [ ] RL only: Pull lockout lever off stanchion cap. preload washer may come out here.)
RLC only: Pull lockout lever off compression- 49. [ ] RLC only: Using fingers (or needle-nose pli-
adjuster knob. ers, if necessary), unthread adjuster screw
27. [ ] RLC only: Watching carefully for 1/8" ball from base valve, then remove O-ring from
bearing stuck to bottom of compression- adjuster screw.
adjuster-knob, pull off knob. 50. [ ] Place 9mm open-end wrench on rebound-
28. [ ] RLC only: Use pencil magnet to remove bear- damper shaft flats (just below rebound-
ing (if not stuck to compression-adjuster knob) damper piston).
and detent spring from top of stanchion cap.
38 – 207
51. [ ] Holding shaft with 9mm wrench, use 10mm
socket to unthread rebound-piston bolt
FULL FORK REBUILD
(watch carefully for shims between bolt Damper-assembly rebuild
head and piston). 1. [ ] Assemble threaded base to rebound-adjuster
52. [ ] Remove shims from face of piston. rod, then install and secure retaining bolt.
53. [ ] Remove piston from shaft (watching care- 2. [ ] Install rebound-adjuster rod into bottom of
fully for shims, spring washer, and sleeve), rebound shaft (start clockwise with 1.5mm
then remove split ring from piston. hex key at bottom), then finish counter-
54. [ ] Remove shim, spring washer, sleeve, and clockwise with rebound-damper knob, until
second shim washer from shaft. rebound-adjuster rod is fully up.
55. [ ] Vanilla only: Remove seal head from shaft, NOTE: In this procedure, all O-rings are described
then remove coil-helper spring. by their approximate O.D. When different O-
Float only: Remove seal head from shaft. rings share O.D., additional information is in-
56. [ ] Remove O-ring from rebound adjuster at top cluded.
of shaft assembly. Example: thick 10mm or thin 10mm.
57. [ ] Remove set screws, detent springs, and 3. [ ] Install 5mm O-ring in slot in top of rebound-
detent balls from plate at end of rebound- adjuster rod.
shaft assembly. NOTE: In following steps, detent springs and set
58. [ ] Turn rebound-adjuster rod clockwise so it screws are installed. Not all detent springs and
threads out bottom of main shaft, then pull set screws are same size, so pay close atten-
rebound adjuster out of main shaft. tion to dimensional descriptions.
59. [ ] Use 1.5mm hex key to remove bolt inside 4. [ ] Treat threads of both 3.4mm-long detent
threaded base of rebound adjuster, then set-screws with drop of Loctite 222 (OK
separate threaded base from rod. to substitute 242).
Cleaning and inspection 5. [ ] Install detent ball, 2.9mm-O.D. detent spring
and detent set-screw in both sides of plate
60. [ ] Organize all set screws, detent springs, and
at end of rebound-shaft assembly. NOTE:
detent balls into groups labeled by assembly
Set screws should only be screwed in until
before disorganizing layout for cleaning.
flush with edge of plate!
61. [ ] Remove all remaining O-rings and rubber
6. [ ] Vanilla only: Install helper spring (capped-
seals from parts. Inspect for splits, tears,
end first) onto rebound-shaft assembly.
cracks, and separations, then replace bad O-
7. [ ] Install 14mm O-ring into groove inside hex
rings with good ones. Bundle all O-rings on
end of seal head, install 19mm O-ring to
zip tie for cleaning.
groove in outside of hex head, then install
62. [ ] Clean all O-rings and seals with warm soapy
22mm O-ring just past threads on seal head.
water, then dry with compressed air and
8. [ ] Carefully install seal head (hex-end first) onto
lint-free paper shop towels.
rebound-shaft assembly. NOTE: Extreme care
63. [ ] Inspect all shim washers for bends, then
needed to not damage plastic coating inside
bundle shim washers on zip tie for cleaning.
hole in seal head! Inspect carefully after
64. [ ] Clean all metal parts with alcohol, solvent,
installation for fragments of plastic!
or warm soapy water, then dry with com-
9. [ ] Install 13mm-O.D. shim on end of rebound-
pressed air and lint-free paper shop towels.
shaft assembly.
65. [ ] Use alcohol on swab or lint-free paper shop
10. [ ] Install 10mm-O.D. sleeve on end of rebound-
towels to clean inside and outside of slider.
shaft assembly.
66. [ ] Place 320-grit sand paper on super-flat sur-
11. [ ] Install 13mm-O.D. double-spring washer on
face, then place base valve (flat-face down)
end of rebound-shaft assembly.
on sand paper. Keeping base valve flat on
12. [ ] Install 18mm-O.D. shim on end of rebound-
sand paper at all times, work valve in figure-
shaft assembly.
eight pattern for a few seconds. Clean base
13. [ ] Install piston (18mm-O.D.-face first) on end
valve again.
of rebound-shaft assembly. Check that shim
67. [ ] Place 320-grit sand paper on super-flat sur-
is aligned, then install split ring in groove in
face, then place compression piston (flat-
perimeter of piston.
face up) on sand paper. Keeping base valve
14. [ ] Install 17mm-O.D. shim to face of piston.
flat on sand paper at all times, work valve in
15. [ ] Install 13mm shim on top of 17mm-O.D.
figure-eight pattern for a few seconds. Clean
shim, then carefully align holes in shims with
compression piston again.
hole in face of piston.
38 – 208
16. [ ] Thread in piston-head bolt, making sure 38. [ ] Install thick 10mm O-ring on lockout-
shoulder under bolt head goes through shims adjuster screw.
(and does not trap shims). 39. [ ] Use lockout knob to install lockout-adjuster
17. [ ] Holding flats on rebound shaft with 9mm screw into top of right stanchion cap until
open-end wrench, torque piston bolt to hex stud is flush with top face of knob.
50in-lbs. 40.[ ] Install 4mm O-ring into slot in compression-
18. [ ] RLC only: Install 5mm O-ring onto base- damper needle, then install compression-
valve adjuster screw. damper needle (round-end first) into small
19.[ ] RLC only: Thread adjuster screw fully into hole in bottom face of right stanchion cap.
large end of base valve. 41. [ ] Install compression-damper-needle spring
20. [ ] RLC only: Treat base-valve detent set-screw (light 10×4mm) onto needle.
(2.5mm long) with drop of Loctite 222 (OK 42. [ ] Install 22mm O-ring in perimeter of compres-
to substitute 242). sion piston.
21. [ ] RLC only: Install detent ball, 3.2mm-O.D. 43. [ ] Install compression piston (flatter-face first)
detent spring (large-end first), and set screw into bottom of right stanchion cap so round
into side of base valve. NOTE: Screw in until hole in piston aligns with compression-rod
flush only, do not tighten! needle.
22. [ ] Install 13mm open-end wrench horizontal 44. [ ] Place 16.5mm-O.D. shim on damper shaft.
and flat in vise with open end extending 45. [ ] Place 21.5mm-O.D. shim on damper shaft.
beyond end of vise, then place base valve 46. [ ] Thread right stanchion cap assembly onto
(large-end up) into open-end wrench. damper shaft, hold shaft head stationary
NOTE: In following step, one of two 10mm long, with Park OBW-2, then use 26mm socket to
4mm diameter springs are installed. One is torque cap to 95in-lbs.
clearly a heavier wire gauge than the other.
Check closely before doing step 23! Slider/plunger/damper assembly
23. [ ] Install blow-off spring (heavy 10×4mm) 47. [ ] Install oiled foam rings into tops of slider.
into end of base valve. (RL may have spring 48. [ ] Remove coil-spring rings from dust wipers.
washer that was under blow-off spring.) 49. [ ] Press dust wipers into sliders until lips fully
24. [ ] Install check piston (cupped-end first) onto contact tops of sliders.
blow-off spring. NOTE: Put fork in near-horizontal position with bot-
25. [ ] Place 18mm O.D. shim on face of base valve. tom ends of sliders 1" below level of top ends
26. [ ] Place spiral spring (large-end first) on top of sliders.
of shim. 50. [ ] Put coil-spring rings onto stanchions.
27. [ ] Thread base-valve bolt into base valve, 51. [ ] Engage slider mostly onto stanchions.
making sure shoulder under bolt head goes 52. [ ] Install coil-spring rings onto dust wipers,
through shim (and does not trap shim). then push slider on fully.
28. [ ] Use seal pick through base-valve ports to gen- 53. [ ] No travel change: Install travel spacers on
tly poke shim and confirm it is not trapped. plunger shaft (above top-out spring) as
29. [ ] Torque base-valve bolt to 75in-lbs. recorded in TEARDOWN step 23.
30. [ ] Clamp damper cylinder (close to center) in Travel change: Install spacer(s) for desired
brass blocks (in soft jaws in vise). amount of travel:
31. [ ] Install 22mm O-ring on base valve at base Vanilla 125mm travel: no spacers
of large threads, install thin 10mm O-ring in Vanilla 100mm travel: 20mm
groove in base-valve stud, then install 9mm Vanilla 80mm travel: 20mm and 25mm
O-ring just past stud threads. Float 100mm travel: no spacers
32. [ ] Treat large threads on base valve with Float 80mm travel: 20mm
Loctite 242. 54. [ ] Inject 30cc of shock oil into left stanchion.
33. [ ] Thread base valve into cylinder, then use 55. [ ] Vanilla only: Install thin 10mm O-ring into
13mm crowfoot to torque to 55in-lbs. groove below bottom plate on plunger.
34. [ ] Turn cylinder over in brass clamps. Install 9mm O-ring just past stud threads,
35. [ ] Treat seal-head threads (on rebound-shaft then install plunger shaft into top end of
assembly) with Loctite 242. left stanchion so shaft comes out hole in
36. [ ] Insert rebound piston into cylinder, then bottom of slider.
thread in seal head by hand.
37. [ ] Use 16mm crowfoot to torque seal head to
55in-lbs.
38 – 209
Float only: Install thin 10mm O-ring into 70. [ ] Engage rebound-damper knob to flats on
groove below bottom plate on plunger. rebound-adjuster shaft, then install bolt (hold
Install 9mm O-ring just past stud threads, knob to prevent rotation while securing bolt).
install O-ring into air piston, then install 71. [ ] Vanilla only: Install spring and remaining
plunger shaft into top end of left stanchion spacers in left stanchion.
so shaft comes out hole in bottom of slider. Float only: Pour 5cc shock oil into left stan-
56. [ ] Install damper assembly into top of right chion (on top of air piston).
stanchion so shaft comes out hole in bot- 72. [ ] Install stanchion cap with fingers, then
tom of slider. secure to 165in-lbs.
57. [ ] Install new crush washers on studs, thread
on bottom nuts, then torque nuts to 50in-lbs Restore settings
(apply pressure through tops of stanchions 73. [ ] Vanilla only: Turn preload knob clockwise by
to keep studs from spinning). number of clicks recorded in TEARDOWN step 1.
58. [ ] RLC only: Install lockout-threshold knob Float only: Inflate valve to 110% of pressure
to stud protruding from bottom nut, then recorded in TEARDOWN step 1, or to following
secure set screw. manufacturer’s guidelines.
NOTE: Put fork in vertical position. FLOAT PRESSURE GUIDELINES
59. [ ] Pull right stanchion cap fully up, then set Rider’s weight Recommended pressure
slider height so right stanchion cap is about
1" above crown. <125lbs 45psi
60. [ ] Install 30mm O-rings into grooves above 125–135lbs 50psi
threads in both stanchion caps. 135–145lbs 55psi
61. [ ] Pouring slowly, and periodically pumping 145–155lbs 65psi
slider to work oil in, put 160cc of shock oil
155–170lbs 75psi
into right slider.
62. [ ] No travel change only: Install travel spacers 170–185lbs 85psi
as recorded in TEARDOWN step 38 to top end 185–200lbs 95psi
of rebound-damper assembly. 200–215lbs 105psi
Travel change only: Install spacer(s) for
215–230lbs 115psi
desired amount of travel.
Vanilla 125mm travel: 20mm and 25mm 230–250lbs 125psi
Vanilla 100mm travel: 25mm 74. [ ] Turn rebound-damper knob fully counter-
Vanilla 80mm travel: no spacers clockwise, then clockwise by number of
63. [ ] Push slider fully down, hand thread right clicks recorded in TEARDOWN step 2.
stanchion cap into stanchion, then torque 75. [ ] Turn lockout-threshold knob fully counter-
stanchion cap to 165in-lbs. clockwise, then clockwise by number of
64. [ ] RLC only: Install 3.2mm-O.D. detent spring clicks recorded in TEARDOWN step 4.
(small-end first) into small hole in right cap,
then install detent ball on top of spring.
65. [ ] RLC only: Grease blue compression-adjuster TUNING OPTIONS
knob on its bottom face, then place knob
on cap so detents are above detent ball and Sag adjustment and spring change
long groove will engage domed end of com- Sag is the amount the fork compresses when the
pression-damper needle. rider sits statically on the bike in the normal riding posi-
66. [ ] RL/RLC only: Use lockout lever to turn tion. On the Vanilla models, the spring strength and the
lockout-adjuster hex stud fully clockwise preload adjustment determine the sag. A firmer spring
(lever may need to be removed and reposi- and/or a clockwise preload adjustment creates less sag.
tioned several times). A softer spring and/or a counterclockwise preload
67. [ ] RL/RLC only: Grease socket in underside of adjustment creates more sag. On the Float models, the
lockout lever, then engage to hex stud so
air pressure determines the sag. A higher pressure cre-
lever points to 6:00.
68. [ ] RL/RLC only: Use 1.5mm hex key to gen- ates less sag. A lower pressure creates more sag. More
tly snug all three set screws on top face of sag provides overall comfort, but it reduces the amount
lockout knob, then back each out 1/4 turn. of available travel for big hits.
69. [ ] Treat retaining bolt for rebound-damper knob Check sag by measuring the change in distance from
with Loctite 222 (OK to substitute 242). the top of the slider tube to the bottom of the crown
after the rider gets on the bike.
38 – 210
SAG SETTINGS The RLC models have a lockout-threshold adjustment

Travel Sag range (a blue knob on the bottom of the right leg). The adjustment
80mm 12–20mm
determines the amount of impact that will cause the fork to
compress when the lockout is engaged. The user generally
100mm 15–25mm
does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. The knob
125mm 19–31mm
has twelve clicks of adjustment. One click back from full
For Float models, change pressure by 5psi increments clockwise is a normal setting. Clockwise increases the load
to adjust sag. level at which the lockout is bypassed, and counterclockwise
For the Vanilla models, if correct sag cannot be achieved, decreases the load level at which the lockout is bypassed.
or the fork bottoms too infrequently or too frequently, con-
sider changing the spring rate. A rate increase decreases sag
and reduces bottoming. Note that when changing the travel, a
spring change may be needed, even though the rider’s weight
has not changed. The 25lb/in rate is standard for 125mm
FOX AIR-SHOCK (FLOAT
travel, the 35lb/in rate is standard for 100mm travel, and the MODELS)
45lb/in rate is standard for 80mm travel. This section covers the service of the air spring on
’02 VANILLA SPRING RATES the 2000–2003 Float, Float R, and Float RC rear shocks.
The oil damper is factory service only.
Rate Color Part #
No special tools are required for the service, other
10lb/in Black 039-05-000-A
than a high-quality shock pump.
18lb/in Purple 039-05-007-A
25lb/in Blue 039-05-001-A
35lb/in Green 039-05-002-A REMOVAL AND INSPECTION
45lb/in Yellow 039-05-003-A Removal
60lb/in Orange 039-05-004-A 1. [ ] Use pump to measure existing air pressure
75lb/in Red 039-05-005-A and record here: _____psi
2. [ ] Note orientation of shock (end of shock
Rebound-damping adjustment and side of bike where valves and knobs
These models have a red knob on the top of the right are located) so it can be reinstalled in
leg that is an external rebound-damping adjustment. The user same position.
generally does this adjustment to suit his or her riding style. 3. [ ] Depressurize shock, then remove bolts in
The knob has twelve clicks of adjustment. Six clicks from both eyelets to remove shock from frame.
either end is a normal setting. Clockwise decreases rebound Inspection
speed, and counterclockwise increases rebound speed. 4. [ ] Install valve-core tool to keep air valve open,
Compression-damping adjustment then compress and release shock. If shock
stays in compressed position, damper ser-
The RLC models have an external rebound-damping
vice is probably needed (factory only).
adjustment (a blue knob on the top of the right leg, below 5. [ ] Pressurize shock to approximately 200psi,
the lockout lever). The user generally does this adjustment then submerge in water to check for leaks.
to suit his or her riding style. The knob has nine clicks of Leaks may be found at valve core, base of
adjustment. Four clicks from either end is a normal setting. valve, at valve end of canister, or where
Clockwise decreases compression speed (firmer feel), and damper body goes in and out of canister.
counterclockwise increases compression speed. NOTE: Leaks at valve core or base of valve
can be fixed without disassembly of shock.
Lockout and lockout threshold All other symptoms require air-spring rebuild
The RL and RLC models have a lockout adjustment and replacement of all seals.
(a blue lever on the top of the right leg). The lockout pre-
vents the fork from compressing, unless a large enough
impact is experienced to bypass the lockout by means of a AIR-SPRING REBUILD
blow-off valve. The user generally does this adjustment to Air-canister removal
suit his or her needs at different points in a ride. The lever 6. [ ] Carefully clamp air-canister eyelet flats in
engages lockout at the 6:00 position (rider’s perspective), soft jaws in vise (use rag to protect finish).
and releases lockout at 3:00. Rotation counterclockwise past NOTE: Avoid clamping on damping adjuster!
3:00 is normal, but it creates no further change. 7. [ ] Remove valve cap and deflate air valve.
38 – 211
8. [ ] Remove travel-indicator O-ring from damper 23. [ ] Install second large white Teflon bearing in
body. piston seal groove on opposite side of black
9. [ ] Insert rag through damper-body eyelet to ring from first Teflon bearing.
prevent canister body from shooting off end 24. [ ] Carefully install one of remaining white
of shock in case of incomplete depressur- Teflon bearings in lower of two grooves in
ization. NOTE: If this happens, it is caused small-diameter end of canister.
by a condition known as “stuck down,” and 25. [ ] Grease remaining black ring with squarish
shock should be returned to authorized ser- cross-section, then install ring in seal groove
vice center for repair! adjacent to first Teflon bearing. NOTE: Make
10. [ ] Grasp canister eyelet with hands and turn sure black ring is not twisted!
it counterclockwise to unthread it. Then 26. [ ] Carefully install remaining Teflon bearing in
remove canister from end of damper body same groove on opposite side of black ring
(rag must be removed first). from first Teflon bearing.
27. [ ] Install wiper seal in upper groove in small-
Seal and bearing removal diameter end of canister so flatter face of
11. [ ] Remove O-ring from canister cap. wiper seal faces into canister, then grease
12. [ ] Use seal pick to carefully remove black ring wiper seal.
and both white Teflon rings from air piston 28. [ ] Install large O-ring onto canister cap
on damper body. NOTE: Use care to avoid between end of threads and lip.
scratching groove that rings seat in; air leaks
will result! Air canister installation
13. [ ] In small end of canister, carefully use seal 29. [ ] Carefully clamp air-canister eyelet flats in
pick to remove black dust-wiper seal at end soft jaws in vise (use rag to protect finish).
of canister. 30. [ ] Place large-diameter end of canister over
14. [ ] Just below seal that was just removed, care- damper body, then carefully guide end of
fully use seal pick to remove black ring that canister over piston bearings and seal with a
is sandwiched between two white rings, gentle rocking motion.
then remove white rings. NOTE: Use care to 31. [ ] While compressing damper, continue to
avoid scratching groove that rings seat in; push canister over piston until it reaches
air leaks will result! threads on canister cap (air resistance must
be overcome), then turn canister clockwise
Cleaning and inspection to engage threads. NOTE: If air resistance
15. [ ] Carefully clean outside of damper body and is too difficult to overcome, it may be eas-
piston with non-abrasive, lint-free rag and ier to install shock in frame and apply load
mild detergent or solvent. NOTE: Avoid to frame to compress damper while thread-
saturating damper body and use solvent or ing on canister.
detergent only to dampen rag! 32. [ ] Secure canister hand-tight to canister cap.
16. [ ] Carefully clean inside of canister with non- 33. [ ] Pressurize shock to 200psi and submerge to
abrasive, lint-free rag and mild detergent check for leaks, then depressurize.
or solvent. 34. [ ] Install new travel-indicator O-ring over end
17. [ ] Dry parts with compressed air and/or non- of damper body.
abrasive, lint-free rag. 35. [ ] Inflate shock to 105% of pressure
18. [ ] Inspect bore of canister and seal grooves in recorded, then install valve cap. NOTE: If
small end of canister for scratches, dents, or original pressure is suspect, pressurize to
abrasions that might cause air leaks. achieve sag of 25% of shock stroke. Maxi-
19. [ ] Inspect outside of damper body and seal mum pressure is 300psi!
groove in piston for scratches or abrasions
that might cause air leaks.
Seal and bearing installation
20. [ ] Use lightweight non-lithium grease to grease
seal grooves in piston and canister.
21. [ ] Install one white Teflon bearing (larger size
of two) in seal groove in piston.
22. [ ] Grease larger black ring with squarish cross-
section, then install it in groove in piston
adjacent to Teflon bearing. NOTE: Make sure
ring is not twisted!
38 – 212
39 – APPENDIX
ABOUT THE APPENDIX The tools in the lists in this appendix are loosely coded
for importance or priority of acquisition. If a tool name
This appendix contains the following sections.
is shown in bold type in these lists, it is either likely to be
TORQUE EQUIVALENCIES
needed on a regular basis or is considered indispensable
RECOMMENDED TOOLS
even if it is not needed regularly. The remaining tools
The TORQUE EQUIVALENCIES section (page 39-2) lists
(not in bold type) are either more specialized (needed for
inch-pound torques in 5in-lb increments; for each listing,
procedures that not all bike shops or mechanics elect
the ft-lb, kgf-cm, and Nm equivalent is provided. This
to perform), make performing common procedures
information is useful if a torque wrench that does not
more convenient but are not essential to performing
have inch-pound units is being used. In addition, there are
these procedures, or fit less-common configurations of
multiplication formulas for converting from any torque
components. These classifications are “loose” because
unit to any other torque unit.
these factors are very much determined by differences
For those of you familiar with earlier editions of this
in markets, differences in business approaches, and just
manual, two sections might be obvious in their absence
personal preference.
from this appendix. The list of common torque values and
Although this tool-acquisition prioritization is not
the illustrated guide to torques both became impractical
intended as a guideline of recommended tools for the
short cuts for looking up torques as more manufacturers
home mechanic, the home mechanic should certainly
have made torque recommendations commonly avail-
select tools from the prioritized (bold) items before con-
able. The primary function of these omitted sections
sidering the other tools. Because the home mechanic does
was to provide guidelines in the absence of manufac-
not work on all of the bicycle equipment encountered by
turers’ recommendations. Now, the most convenient
the professional, many of the prioritized tools simply don’t
source of information for torque values are within the
apply, but since the home mechanic might work on any
specific procedures throughout this manual. If product-
of the equipment encountered by the professional, there
specific recommendations cannot be found within the
is simply no practical way to produce a list specific to the
procedures, every effort should be made to get the values
home mechanic. As a home mechanic, you can also reduce
from manufacturer’s published information (in product
the tool list simply by choosing which procedures you are
packaging, manufacturer’s product-service manuals, and
confident and willing to perform. Cost of tools compared
manufacturer’s web sites). Some convenience has been
to the cost of professional service and your budgetary
sacrificed here for the sake of avoiding misleading infor-
limits also can significantly narrow the tool choices. Finally,
mation and potentially dangerous consequences.
there are tools that lack the efficiency and durability the
The RECOMMENDED TOOLS section compiles all the
professional demands but that the home mechanic will
required and preferred tools from each chapter. In addi-
find completely satisfactory.
tion, bicycle-specific tools and non-bicycle tools that are
Conspicuously missing from the tool lists anywhere
required for a wide variety of procedures and have not
in this manual are tool sets and tool kits. Distributors
been listed in any other chapter are listed in this section
and manufacturers create kits and sets to simplify choices
under the heading of GENERAL MECHANIC’S TOOLS. The
for people who don’t feel they have enough time or
lists of bicycle-specific recommended tools are extracted
knowledge to make the choices, which is contrary to the
from the tool lists and recommendations in each chapter.
basic approach taken throughout this manual. Such tool
The difference between the lists in these two locations is
kits and tool sets are often misunderstood to be more
that the tools mentioned within the topic chapters include
economical than purchasing the tools individually. In
all the tools that are available for each function, but the
fact, the opposite is true. The kits and sets often include
tools listed in this appendix are the tools that are preferred
tools that may not be a preferred choice, so eventually the
for each function. For reasons of availability, budget, or
meticulous mechanic also purchases the preferred tool,
personal preference, one might choose a tool that appears
resulting in a double expenditure. Furthermore, the kits
in the topic chapters that is not the choice included in this
and sets often contain a range of sizes or options that
appendix. Page 39-3 is a page guide for the recommended
might never be utilized.
tool lists, arranged alphabetically by procedure.
39 – 1
39 – APPENDIX
TORQUE EQUIVALENCIES
Inch Approximate Approximate Approximate Inch Approximate Approximate Approximate
pounds Foot pounds Kilograms force per Newton pounds Foot pounds Kilograms force per Newton
(in-lbs) (ft-lbs) centimeter (kgf-cm) meters (Nm) (in-lbs) (ft-lbs) centimeter (kgf-cm) meters (Nm)
5 .4 6 .6 280 23.3 323 31.6
10 .8 12 1.1 285 23.8 328 32.2
15 1.3 17 1.7 290 24.2 334 32.8
20 1.7 23 2.3 295 24.6 340 33.3
25 2.1 29 2.8 300 25.0 346 33.9
30 2.5 35 3.4 305 25.4 351 34.5
35 2.9 40 4.0 310 25.8 357 35.0
40 3.3 46 4.5 315 26.3 363 35.6
45 3.8 52 5.1 320 26.7 369 36.2
50 4.2 58 5.6 325 27.1 374 36.7
55 4.6 63 6.2 330 27.5 380 37.3
60 5.0 69 6.8 335 27.9 386 37.8
65 5.4 75 7.3 340 28.3 392 38.4
70 5.8 81 7.9 345 28.8 398 39.0
75 6.3 86 8.5 350 29.2 403 39.5
80 6.7 92 9.0 355 29.6 409 40.1
85 7.1 98 9.6 360 30.0 415 40.7
90 7.5 104 10.2 365 30.4 421 41.2
95 7.9 109 10.7 370 30.8 426 41.8
100 8.3 115 11.3 375 31.3 432 42.4
105 8.8 121 11.9 380 31.7 438 42.9
110 9.2 127 12.4 385 32.1 444 43.5
115 9.6 133 13.0 390 32.5 449 44.1
120 10.0 138 13.6 395 32.9 455 44.6
125 10.4 144 14.1 400 33.3 461 45.2
130 10.8 150 14.7 405 33.8 467 45.8
135 11.3 156 15.3 410 34.2 472 46.3
140 11.7 161 15.8 415 34.6 478 46.9
145 12.1 167 16.4 420 35.0 484 47.5
150 12.5 173 16.9 425 35.4 490 48.0
155 12.9 179 17.5 430 35.8 495 48.6
160 13.3 184 18.1 435 36.3 501 49.1
165 13.8 190 18.6 440 36.7 507 49.7
170 14.2 196 19.2 445 37.1 513 50.3
175 14.6 202 19.8 450 37.5 518 50.8
180 15.0 207 20.3
185 15.4 213 20.9 Torque-conversion multiplications
190 15.8 219 21.5 The following multiplications can be used for convert-
195 16.3 225 25.4 ing torques from one unit to another.
200 16.7 230 22.6 in-lbs × .083 = ft-lbs
205 17.1 236 23.2 in-lbs × 1.15 = kgf-cm
210 17.5 242 23.7 in-lbs × .113 = Nm
215 17.9 248 24.3
220 18.3 253 24.9 ft-lbs × 12.0 = in-lbs
225 18.8 259 25.4 ft-lbs × 13.8 = kgf-cm
230 19.2 265 26.0 ft-lbs × 1.36 = Nm
235 19.6 271 26.6
240 20.0 276 27.1 kgf-cm × .870 = in-lbs
245 20.4 282 27.7 kgf-cm × .073 = ft-lbs
250 20.8 288 28.2 kgf-cm × .098 = Nm
255 21.3 294 28.8
Nm × 8.851 = in-lbs
260 21.7 300 29.4
Nm × .7376 = ft-lbs
265 22.1 305 29.9
Nm × 10.2 = kgf-cm
270 22.5 311 30.5
275 22.9 317 31.1
39 – 2
39 – APPENDIX
RECOMMENDED TOOLS
PROCEDURE PAGE
Bottom bracket (adjustable-cup type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-5
Bottom bracket (cartridge-bearing type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-5
Bottom bracket (tapping and facing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-4
Brakes (cables) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-12
Brakes (disc type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-12
Brakes (rim-brake type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-12
Cassettes (freehub) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-10
Chainrings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-9
Chains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-11
Chainline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-11
Crank arms (press-fit type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-9
Cranksets (one-piece and BMX types) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-9
Derailleurs (cables) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-11
Derailleurs (controls) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-11
Derailleurs (front and rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-11
Forks (column sizing and threading) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-4
Forks (counter-reaming and facing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-6
Frame, fork, and dropout alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-4
Freewheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-10
General mechanic’s tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-15
Headsets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-6
Head tube (reaming and facing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-6
Hubs (cartridge-bearing type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-7
Hubs (loose-ball type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-7
Pedals (bearing service) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-7
Pedals (installation and removal) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-9
Repair stands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-10
Seat and seatpost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-11
Seat tube (hones and reamers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-4
Suspension forks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-13
Tires and tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-7
Wheels (lacing and building) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-8
Wheels (truing and repair) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39-8
39 – 3
39 – APPENDIX
FORK-COLUMN SIZING AND THREADING TOOLS (extracted from table 6-1 & 6-2)
Hacksaw 28–32 teeth per inch
VAR 929 Fork mitre fits threaded and threadless 1", 1–1/8", and 1–1/4" forks
General BHE Deburring tool for removing internal burrs from cut tube
Hozan C432C Complete handle and dies for BSC 1" × 24tpi thread, 1–1/8" × 26tpi, and 1–1/4" ×
26tpi forks
SEAT-TUBE HONE AND REAMER TOOLS (extracted from table 7-1)

Flex Hone BC20 13/16"–7/8" (BMX), fits common fork columns also
Flex Hone BC22 7/8"–15/16" (BMX), fits larger fork columns also
Flex Hone BC25.4 25.0–27.4mm seat tubes (also fits in 1" threaded fork columns)
Flex Hone AL25.4 25.0–27.4mm aluminum seat tubes
Flex Hone BC27 26.4mm–28.0mm seat tubes
Flex Hone BC29 Oversize seat tubes up to 31.6mm (also fits in 1–1/8" threaded fork columns)
REAR-TRIANGLE, FORK, AND DROPOUT-ALIGNMENT TOOLS (extracted from table 8-1)

Used steel bottom- In conjunction with a high-quality vise and heavy-duty bench, a good way to hold
bracket cups in as- the frame by the bottom bracket
sorted thread types
Park FAG-2 Accurately compares relative positions of left and right stays for centering pur-
poses
Park FFS-1 Leverage tool used for bending rear stays and fork blades
VAR 478 Fork-alignment jig fits all sizes of fork columns, not as easy to use as Park FCG-1
Stein FG Fork-alignment gauge used to check whether fork needs alignment before removing
it from bike
Stein J Dropout-alignment tools that are adjustable infinitely, clamps very securely by means
of QR levers; calibrated so width can be checked simultaneously
Stein J14 Dropout-alignment tools for BMX/Freestyle dropouts that fit 14mm axles
BOTTOM-BRACKET-TAPPING/FACING TOOLS (extracted from table 2-1 & 3-1)

Park BTS-1 Piloted tap handles w/ 1.37" × 24tpi BSC/ISO taps, includes facer also
Park 693 36mm × 24tpi Italian tap for BTS-1, two needed
Park 694 35mm × 1mm French tap for BTS-1, two needed
39 – 4
39 – APPENDIX
ADJUSTABLE-CUP BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS (extracted from table 9-1)

FIXED-CUP TIGHTENING (cup already installed)
Stein FCC2 Attaches to nut-type and bolt-type spindles to retain spanners to cup
Park HCW-3 Slotted 36mm spanner fits with right crank still mounted, if inner ring does not
overlap fixed cup (also fits 25mm one-piece bottom-bracket cones and nuts)
Park HCW-4 36mm fixed cup (also fits pin-hole adjustable cups w/ 29mm dia. hole pattern)
Park HCW-11 16mm flats found on old English and some Taiwan fixed cups (also fits
adjustable cups with slots or square holes)
Park HCW-13 36mm fixed cup (also has 3-hook lockring spanner for 3-notch lockrings)
FIXED-CUP INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL
Park BBT-8 Fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700) fixed cups
Park TWB-368 Crowfoot adapter that allows use of torque wrench with BBT-8
VAR 30 w/ 30/2 & 30/3 Fits 35mm, 35.4mm, 36mm, 36.7mm, 37.7mm, and 38mm fixed cups
LOCKRING TOOLS
Hozan C203 Pliers fit even-notched lockrings securely
Hozan C205 Single-hook design (other end fits headset lockrings)
Park BBT-7 Multiple-hook design fits Shimano XTR (BB-M950) and Dura-Ace (BB-7700)
aluminum lockrings
Park HCW-13 Three-hook design fits common three-notch lockrings (also fits 36mm fixed
cups)
ADJUSTABLE-CUP PIN SPANNERS
Park SPA-1 (green) Light-duty adjustable with 3.0mm pins
Park SPA-2 (red) Light-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
VAR 13 Heavy-duty adjustable with 2.4mm pins
16MM FLATS ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with 16mm wrench flats)
SLOTTED ADJUSTABLE-CUP SPANNERS (for adjustable cup with square holes or slots in its face)
Park HCW-11 Good tool, only one made for the job (works on similar fixed cups also)
SPLINED-FACE ADJUSTABLE CUP SPANNERS (Dura-Ace BB-7700 bottom bracket)
Park BBT-2 Accepts 3/8" driver (also fits Shimano and ISIS cartridge bottom brackets)
THREAD-IN CARTRIDGE-BEARING BOTTOM-BRACKET TOOLS (extracted from table 10-1)

SHIMANO-STYLE AND ISIS-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Park BBT-2 Use with 3/8" drive or 32mm headset wrench (older versions not ISIS compatible)
Stein BBT/Bolt Long 8mm bolt used to retain above tools when used with square-taper spindles
CAMPAGNOLO-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Park BBT-5 Fits Campagnolo splined cups (also fits Campagnolo cassette lockring)
PHIL WOOD-STYLE SPLINED CUPS
Phil Wood Fits Phil Wood splined cups
NOTCHED-FLANGE MOUNTING RINGS (all varieties)
TruVativ Fits notched-flange TruVativ ISIS bottom brackets, use with 1/2" drive or
BB-02-SPL-TOOL 32mm headset wrench (Park BBT-8 or Shimano TL-UN96 that fits certain XTR
and Dura-Ace non-cartridge bottom brackets are poor substitutes)
Park BBT-3 Fits notched-flange cups on KSS bottom brackets
Campagnolo 1130050 Fits notched-flange cups on Campagnolo, Sachs (works with torque wrench)
39 – 5
39 – APPENDIX
FORK COUNTER-REAMING/FACING TOOLS (extracted from table 5-1)

Park CRC-1 Complete counter-reaming/facing tool with 26.5mm and 27.1mm reamers for 1" forks and
30.1mm reamer for 1–1/8" fork (good clearance and precise pilot)
HEAD-TUBE REAMING/FACING TOOLS (extracted from table 4-1)

Park HTR-1 Complete reaming/facing tool w/ 30.0mm reamer, includes all necessary pi-
lots to face head tubes, instead of requiring additional 29.8mm, 33.8mm, and
36.8mm reamers
Park 690-XL plus 768 Facer and pilot set for Cane Creek Zero Stack® headset standard
Park 756-S Facer and reamer for Cane Creek Integrated System® headset standard
Park 758-S Facer and reamer for OnePointFive headset standard
Park 750 Enlarges HTR-1 centering cone to work with 756-S and 758-S mills
VAR CD-03600-41.80 Mills Campagnolo-design integrated head tubes (from United Bicycle Tool,
order their item #VR-60080)
HEADSET TOOLS (extracted from table 11-1)

ADJUSTABLE RACE SPANNERS/PLIERS
Stein FS Fork-stabilizing tool used to keep fork from turning while adjusting headset
LOCKNUT WRENCHES/SPANNERS (all are 8-flat semi-box style – open at one flat only)
Park HW-2 Precise fitting 12"-long 32 & 36mm locknut tool
Park TWB-32 Crowfoot adapter to enable use of torque wrench on 32mm
Park TWB-366 Crowfoot adapter to enable use of torque wrench on 36mm 6-flat nuts
LOCKRING WRENCHES/PLIERS
Hozan C205 Single-peg-style wrench fits all headset lockrings, also fits bottom-bracket
lockrings
Hozan C203 Lockring pliers fit all lockrings with even number of notches
HEAD-TUBE-RACE/MOUNT REMOVERS
Park RT1 Fits all headset sizes
CROWN-RACE/MOUNT REMOVERS
Park CRP-1 Works on all 1", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", & 1.5" fork columns
HEAD-TUBE RACE/MOUNT PRESSES
Park HHP-1 Fits all sizes of headsets, uses stepped inserts, also fits one-piece bottom-bracket
cups
CROWN-RACE/MOUNT INSTALLERS
Park CRS-1 Use as a slide hammer, or hit with ballpeen; includes three shapes of adapters for
1" headset fork crowns, and three shapes of adapters for 1–1/8" headsets
THREADLESS-HEADSET TOOLS
Park TNS-2 Installs star nut in 1–1/4" fork columns (no guide system)
Park TNS-3 Installs star nut in freestyle headset w/ hollow top-cap bolt (no guide system)
Stein SF-1 Faces bottom of stem to improve adjustable-race alignment
Wheels Mfg. Startool Installs star nut for in 1" & 1–1/8" fork columns, uses guide system for alignment
39 – 6
39 – APPENDIX
LOOSE-BALL-HUB TOOLS (extracted from table 12-1)

Hozan C354 Axle vise w/ threaded holes for holding axle during hub disassembly, grips
very securely
Park AV-3 Axle vise w/ smooth 9, 10, & 14mm holes for holding axle during hub
disassembly
Stein HV-1 Hub vise for holding hub during adjustment
Bicycle Research TC/S Thread chaser set for numerous thread descriptions of axles with
inch pitch
Campagnolo 1170004 Dustcap puller for Campagnolo C-Record hubs
Park SCW-13 through SCW-20 Sizes 13–20mm with good leverage and hand cushioning, thin design
fits all cones
CARTRIDGE-BEARING-HUB TOOLS (extracted from chapter 13)

Bicycle Research SBR-K Bearing extractor set fits all sizes of cartridge bearings used in cartridge-
bearing hubs
Bicycle Research SBI-K Bearing press fits all sizes of cartridge-bearing hubs.
Chris King Hub Service Kit Removers, presses, and bearing adjuster for service of Chris King hubs
ADJUSTABLE-CONE/CUP-PEDAL BEARING TOOLS (table 14-1)

Campagnolo 7130025 Campy adjustable-cup “three-bearing” models called TBS, SGR, Record, and
Croce deAune
Campagnolo 7130034 Campagnolo QR pedals with removable bearing unit
Campagnolo 710 Dustcap spanner for classic Campagnolo Nuovo Record and Super Record road
quill-style pedals
Park HCW3 25mm bottom-bracket adjustable-cup spanner for Shimano adjustable-cup models
with 25mm locknut, including Ultegra PD-6400, 105 PD-1050, Exage PD-A450,
PD-A550
Look Moab Tool Bearing-unit-removal tool for accessing bearings on Look pedals
washer between locknut and cone, including BMX and downhill models
washer between locknut and cone, including Deore XT PD-M735, Deore DX PD-
M650, PD-M525, Ultegra PD-6402, PD-A525
Shimano TL-SH-PD40 Bearing-unit-removal tool for accessing bearings on following models: Dura-Ace
PD-7410, Ultegra PD-6400, Ultegra PD-6401, Ultegra PD-6402, 105SC PD-1055,
105SC PD-1056, PD-M737, PD-M525, PD-A525, and any other models w/
20.7mm diameter 10-tooth spline just outward of the mounting-wrench flats
Shimano TL-SH-PD30 Lockring tool for adjustable-cup models including Dura-Ace PD-7400 and Dura-Ace
PD 7401, or any other model with a 8-face locknut with concave faces
TIRE AND TUBE TOOLS (extracted from chapter 19)

Park TL-10 Superior tire-removal tool works on all tires except MTB downhill and BMX freestyle
Tube patching supplies Any brand with patches that have “feathered” edges
Park TL-5 Heavy-duty tire levers for MTB downhill and BMX freestyle
39 – 7
39 – APPENDIX
WHEEL-LACING AND BUILDING TOOLS (table 16-1)

Bike-alog Spokemaster Recommended (see spoke-length-system reviews on page 16-3)
Bicycle Research ND-1 Offset screwdriver for speed-threading of nipples
Z-Tech Aero Driver Installs nipples in deep-section rims
Hozan C700 Relatively inexpensive spoke-threading machine (impractical for more
than 2–3 spokes at a time); valuable for creating replacement spokes in
unusual sizes for wheels that just need a few spokes replaced
Phil Wood Spoke Length Expensive, precise, and durable (superior variety of gauge notches that
Gauge retain accuracy)
DT Spoke Freeze Thread-preparation compound reduces corrosion and vibration loosening
Sanford Sharpie Fine Point Used for marking on hub and rim (to keep track of where spokes will go)
permanent marker
Wheelsmith RimRods TL102 Used for accurately measuring effective rim diameter
WHEEL-REPAIR TOOLS (table 17-1)

NIPPLE WRENCHES (inaccurately called “spoke wrenches”)
Campagnolo UT-HU070 Fits 5.5mm hex-head nipples in many Campagnolo wheels
Park SW-0 Black wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.2mm nipples
Park SW-1 Green wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.3mm nipples
Park SW-2 Red wrench fits 2.0/1.8mm-gauge spokes with 3.5mm nipples
Park SW-3 Blue wrench fits 12-gauge spoke nipples
Park SW-4 Yellow wrench fits 11-gauge spoke nipples
Park SW-10 Adjustable-clamping wrench fits all odd sizes and partially damaged nipples
Spline Drive S/T Fits spline-drive nipples
TENSION METERS (all choices need periodic recalibration; check with supplier for price and availability)
Wheelsmith N001 Less expensive, durable, less-precise readings, good documentation
SPOKE CUTTERS
Small bolt cutter (various) Heavy-duty spoke cutter for cutting out old spokes
DISHING TOOLS
Park WAG-4 Light-duty tool fits 20" wheels and larger, only tool that works with tire
in place; best use is for determining wheel dish error before tire removal
VAR 143 Heavy-duty, quick and easy to use, fits 20" wheels and larger
SPOKE-STABLIZING TOOLS
Twist Resist 2 Securely and harmlessly grips spokes to prevent twisting and wind-up;
left-hand and right-hand versions available, invaluable with straight-pull
and non-round spokes
AXLE ADAPTERS
Cannondale QCTL108 Enables installation of Cannondale Lefty wheel in regular truing stand
Cannondale HD122 Enables installation of any 20mm-axle wheels in regular truing stand
RIM REPAIR TOOLS
Bicycle Research RS-1 Pliers-type tool squeezes blips out of rims and aligns offset, spliced rim
seams
TRUING STANDS AND STAND ACCESSORIES
United Bicycle Tool CV-290 Metric feeler gauge set for measuring round, lateral, and dish errors
Park TS-2 Durable, easy wheel in/out, easy adjust of reading gauges
Park TSB-2 Tilt base for Park TS-2 helps compensate for mounting TS-2 at poor height
39 – 8
39 – APPENDIX
PRESS-FIT CRANK-ARM TOOLS (extracted from table 20-1)

EXTRACTORS
Campagnolo UT-FC060 Standard-thread extractor, works with bolt-type square spindles only
Pedro’s 6541205 Dedicated extractor for common types of spline-fit cranks (Octalink and ISIS)
Sugino Maxi 203 Standard-thread extractor, works with old-style, nut-type, square spindles only
OTHER CRANK-ARM TOOLS
Bicycle Research TC-8 Thread chaser, repairs mangled 22×1mm crank-arm threads
Shimano TL-FC20 Fits 2-pin-hole dust cap on older Shimano crank arms
Stein CES Converts stripped 22×1mm threads to 24×1.5mm; comes with shop extractor
(24×1.5mm) and self-extractor system to be left installed in crank; works with
bolt-type square spindles and splined-fit cranks; expensive but indispensable
ONE-PIECE AND BMX CRANKSET TOOLS (extracted from table 22-1)

LOCKNUT, ADJUSTABLE-CONE, and FIXED-CONE WRENCHES
15" adjustable wrench Used to fit locknuts and cones with wrench fittings that do not match any
bicycle-specific tools; use also for high leverage periodically needed on Bicy-
cle Research CP-1
Park HCW-3 25mm open end for locknut and some adjustable cones
Park SPA-4 Fits slots in face of some adjustable cones
Hozan C205 Hook spanner fits some fixed cones
CUP and CARTRIDGE-BEARING PRESSES
Bicycle Research CP-1 Fits bottom-bracket pressed cups and BMX headset cups
Bicycle Research BMX-P Fits bottom-bracket cartridge-bearing units with 3/4", 20mm, or 22mm I.D.
CHAINRING TOOLS (extracted from table 23-1)

CHAINRING-BOLT TOOLS
Sugino 207 Fits rare 10mm sleeve nuts
VAR 352 Fits 12mm sleeve nuts; simultaneously stabilizes sleeve nut while built-in hex key is used
to tighten or loosen bolt
CHAINRING-ALIGNMENT TOOLS
VAR 940 Wide engagement prevents damage, use two at a time for control
PEDAL-REMOVAL/INSTALLATION TOOLS (extracted from table 24-1)

PEDAL WRENCHES
Park PW-3 Fits 15mm and 9/16", acceptable durability and excellent hand protection
Park PW-4 Fits 15mm only, extra long, good mechanical advantage and hand protection
Park TWB-15 15mm crowfoot adapter for using torque wrench with pedal installation
THREAD-REPAIR TOOLS
Eldi 2299 Oversize tap and thread-bushing set for repairing stripped mounting threads in crank
39 – 9
39 – APPENDIX
FREEWHEEL AND FREEHUB TOOLS (extracted from table 25-1)

SPLINED-FREEWHEEL REMOVERS (see figures 25.5, 25.6, 25.7, and 25.8 on page 25-5)
Park FR-4 Thin-wall tool fits Atom, Regina, and Zeus w/ 20.4mm hole
Bicycle Research CT3 Fits Atom, Maillard, Normandy, Schwinn freewheels w/ 30mm hole
Shimano TL-FW20 Thick-wall tool fits old Shimano w/ 18.8mm hole (requires axle removal)
Bicycle Research CT6MB Fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole; heavy-duty, thick-wall
CT6MB requires axle removal
Park FR-1 Thin-wall tool fits Shimano and Sachs freewheels w/ 21.9mm hole
Bicycle Research CT5 Fits rare TDC three-spline freewheel
NOTCHED-FREEWHEEL REMOVERS (see figures 25.9, 25.10, 25.11, and 25.12 on pages 25-5 and 25-6)
Shimano TL-FW10 Fits Shimano/Regina 2-notch freewheels
Bicycle Research CT-9 Fits Campagnolo 2-notch
Shimano TL-FW45 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels
Park FR-6 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels on hub with 14mm axle
Keng Pey 921 Fits 4-notch BMX freewheels that are slightly smaller than standard
Lifu 09D1 Fits Shimano and SunTour 2-notch BMX freewheels
CASSETTE-LOCKRING REMOVERS
Park FR-5 Fits Shimano HG/IG lockrings
Park BBT-5 Fits Campagnolo cassette-cog-retaining lockrings
COG TOOLS (for stabilizing or turning cassette or freewheel cogs)
Stein HH-11/14 Double-ended three-pin tool holds cassette stationary while using lockring
tool; fits 11, 12, 13, and 14 cogs, but ideally two tools still needed if using
this brand (works best if each end is dedicated to one size)
Bicycle Research CV1 Freewheel vise holds freewheel for cog removal
Pamir TW-1 Strong sprocket remover with excellent hand protection; hex fitting fits
Shimano cog and lockring tools; reasonably compatible with all cog sets
COG- and BEARING-SERVICE TOOLS
Rohloff HG/IG-Check Excellent tool for checking cog wear on all brands and models of cogs
Park GSC-1 Cleaning tool for cogs
Shimano TL-FH40 For securing race or disassembling freehub body
Morningstar FHB1 Adapter allows flushing Shimano (except Dura-Ace 6- & 7-speed) freehub
bodies with solvent and air
Morningstar J4M Removes dustcap from Shimano freehub body
Stein FWG Adapter allows flushing most freewheels with solvent and air
FREEHUB-BODY REMOVERS
Shimano TL-FH10 For removing Dura-Ace freehub body
10mm Hex-bit socket For removing most Shimano and SunTour freehub bodies
BICYCLE REPAIR STANDS (extracted from chapter 1)

Park PRS-3 Single-arm repair stand, available in free-standing (most flexibility), bolt-to-floor
(sturdiest), and bench-mount (least space) options
39 – 10
39 – APPENDIX
CHAIN TOOLS (extracted from table 26-1)

INSTALLATION AND REMOVAL TOOLS
Park CT-3 Screw-type, HG/IG compatible, best tool for tight-link removal
Park CT-7 Fits 1/2" × 1/8" and 1/2" × 3/16" (415-size chain) BMX freestyle chains
Shimano TL-CN31 Screw-type tool compatible with all chains (including 9-speed and 10-speed),
durable, easy to use; lacks tight-link removal feature (use Park CT-3)
WEAR-MEASUREMENT TOOLS
Park CC-2 Numerical gradations, accurate and consistent
CHAINLINE TOOLS (extracted from chapter 27)

CHAINLINE-MEASUREMENT TOOLS
Stein CLC-2 Used to measure relative position of chainrings and rear cogs
SEATPOST TOOLS (extracted from chapter 29)

SEAT-TUBE-MEASUREMENT TOOLS
Stein SZ-1 Stepped-increment rods used to measure diameter of inside of seat tube
DERAILLEUR-CONTROL TOOLS (extracted from chapter 30)

STI LEVER TOOLS
Shimano TL-ST01 For installing derailleur-control/brake-lever assembly into brake-lever body
Shimano TL-ST02 For disassembly of Dura-Ace and other STI lever assemblies for more thorough cleaning
DERAILLEUR-CABLE TOOLS (extracted from table 31-1)

Felco C7 Deluxe Cuts inner wires and compressionless housing; most durable and precise
REAR-DERAILLEUR TOOLS (extracted from table 32-1)

HANGER ALIGNMENT
Park DAG-1 Low-play pivot, easy to use and to measure errors, fits all wheel sizes
FOURTH-HAND (CABLE-TENSION) TOOLS (These tools also used for front derailleurs and brakes)
FRONT-DERAILLEUR TOOLS (extracted from table 33-1)

CAGE ALIGNMENT
Park BT-3 Actually a brake tool for aligning caliper arms, this tool works well for bending
the front-derailleur cage.
39 – 11
39 – APPENDIX
BRAKE-CABLE TOOLS (extracted from table 35-1)

7–8" diagonal side cutter, any brand Cuts wound housing
United Bicycle Tool MS-BURR Removes burr from filed or ground housing end
RIM-BRAKE TOOLS (extracted from table 36-1)

THIRD-HAND TOOLS (for holding pads to rim)
United Bicycle Tool A truly universal third-hand tool borrowed from the carpentry trade (called
WB-BRK Quick Grip, also)
SIDEPULL-CALIPER TOOLS
Park BT-3 (pair) Used for twisting ends of caliper arms to toe brake pads
Park OBW-1 10mm & 13mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot adjustment
Park OBW-2 11mm & 12mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot adjustment
Park OBW-3 14mm thin offset wrench for brake centering and pivot adjustment, with
pronged end for muscling caliper springs to adjust centering
United Bicycle Tool Very useful for disengaging and engaging caliper springs
SR-AT/TI
CANTILEVER-CALIPER TOOLS
Bicycle Research BM-1 Mill for repairing pivot-stud damage and cleaning paint off pivot stud
Shimano TL-CB-10 Set of 6 tools for setting up Shimano Pro-Set-type brakes with link-wires
DISC-BRAKE TOOLS (extracted from table 37-1 and chapter 37)

Morningstar Roc-Tech Dial gauge for rotor alignment; DPD-20 works in bike, DP-TS-2 works
DPD-20 or DP-TS-2 in Park TS-2 truing stand
Magura Disc Optimizer Facing tool improves alignments of caliper installed on I.S. mounts
Jag Mounting Shims DCA025 .2mm shims for aligning caliper on I.S. mounts without removing bolts
Jag Line Cutter WST010 Cuts hoses to size (except stainless steel)
Jag Needle Driver WST012 Installs barbed fitting into hydraulic hose
Avid Locking Tool MDT-1 Removes and installs splined lockring when overhauling Avid mechani-
cal disc-brake caliper
Formula bleed kit FD50902-00 Bleed fittings, bleed lines, and syringe for Formula hydraulic disc brakes
Hayes bleed kit 98-14546 Bleed fittings, bleed lines, and syringe for Hayes hydraulic disc brakes
Magura Mini kit 0322143-US Bleed fittings, bleed lines, and syringe for Magura hydraulic disc brakes
Shimano TL-BH61 Clamp for holding hose while cutting, doubles as spacer for pistons
when performing filling or bleeding procedures
BTI GM-860202 Includes bleed fittings, hoses, and fluid for SRAM 9.0/Grimeca System
8 disc brakes (sold by BTI)
Fill and waste lines Several feet of clear-vinyl tubing in all inside diameters between 1/8"
and 5/16" (available from hardware stores and aquarium/pet stores)
United Bicycle Supply RS-SYR 20cc oral syringe for filling and bleeding hyraulic systems; syringes
should be used once and disposed of (buy in bulk)
39 – 12
39 – APPENDIX
SUSPENSION TOOLS (extracted from chapter 38)

SUSPENSION-SPECIFIC TOOLS NOT MADE BY SUSPENSION-FORK MANUFACTURERS
20mm, 21mm, 22mm, Low-profile plastic and aluminum fittings on all brands of forks require cus-
24mm, 26mm custom- tom-modified sockets that have ends ground or filed flat to improve engage-
ground sockets ment; specific sizes for each brand are listed throughout chapter 38, but sizes
needed for each brand change with regularity; sizes shown here cover all
known fittings seen through 2003
Extra-deep sockets: Shafts protruding through nuts on various suspension fittings require the
10mm (RS) use of extra-deep sockets; sizes shown are all need for all brands; codes
11mm & 7/16" (AM) after sizes indicate fork brands: RockShox (RS), Answer/Manitou (AM), or
15mm & 19mm (MZ) Marzocchi (MZ); best source is Grainger Tool Company
Extra-long bit sockets: Hex-socket fittings deep inside stanchion tubes require hard-to-find 5"-long bit
5mm & 6mm sockets in sizes listed; try Grainger Tool Company (Proto-brand bit sockets)
CalVan 521 snap-ring Internal/external snap-ring pliers with replaceable tips of various sizes, angles,
pliers and lengths (from United Bicycle Tool, order item CV-521)
Topeak TES-2 e-shock 250 psi capacity, digital readout, swiveling hose for easy access in all postions,
MasterBlaster pump bleed-off valve
Fork mount (various) Fork holder for securing bike in truck bed; use to secure slider for bushing service
Hurricane Fork Up Adapts forks with 20mm thru-axle to fit fork mount (for bushing service)
adapter 1011C
Motion-Pro Oil Level Suction device used for precise adjustment of oil level in stanchion tube; order
Gauge MP-OLG from United Bicycle Supply or MN-08121 from BTI
Fill lines Several feet of clear-vinyl tubing in all sizes between 1/8" and 5/16" I.D. and
also 1/4" O.D. (available from hardware stores and aquarium/pet stores)
United Bicycle Supply 20cc oral syringe for filling and bleeding hyraulic systems; syringes should be
RS-SYR used once and disposed of (buy in bulk)
CANNONDALE FORK TOOLS
Outer cap tool HD136 Fork removal plus all damper and spring services (all models except Lefty)
Castle tool HDTL146 All damper and spring services (all models except Lefty)
Pin tool HDTL148 Pre-1999 DD series and MC series damper and spring services
Bearing driver HDTL149 All fork removals and headset-bearing replacement
Bullet tool HDTL168 Damper overhaul for models with lockout
Bullet tool HD134 Fatty 50/70 damper overhaul
Shaft clamp HDTL187 Damper overhaul (all models)
Slot tool KT006 Damper overhaul (all models)
Migration tool KT016 Telescope-bearing adjustment (travel loss) for all models
Race retainer KT002\ Telescope-bearing overhaul (all models)
Castle tool HDTL200* Lefty SS100 (no 40mm hex fitting on top of leg), all services except fork
removal and headset-bearing service
Castle tool KT004 Lefty (all with 40mm hex cap on top of leg), all services
MANITOU FORK TOOLS
Answer 85-5193 Bushing removal/installation tool for all Manitou models; addition of four kits
listed next is required to make this tool work with each stanchion diameter
Answer 85-5191 Kit required so 85-5193 can be used on 25.4mm-stanchion models
Continued
39 – 13
39 – APPENDIX
SUSPENSION TOOLS (continued, extracted from chapter 38)

MARZOCCHI FORK TOOLS
Slider protector Protects slider from damage when removing seals from forks with 30mm
R-5089-AB stanchions
Seal installer R-5090 Installs seals in forks with 30mm stanchions
Pump adapter Needed to pressurize numerous models (1998-2003)
R-5321038
Seal installer Installs seals in Shiver DC only
R-5098-AC/C
Slider protector Protects Shiver DC slider from damage when removing seals from sliders
R-5099-AC
Bushing installers Installs upper bushings and lower bushings in 2003 and later models with
R-5114-BZ/R and 30mm stanchions (both needed)
R-5115-BZ/R
Bushing installers Installs upper bushings and lower bushings in 2003 and later models with
R-5116-AA/R and 32mm stanchions (both needed)
R-5117-AA/R
Seal installer R 5123/C Install seals in all models with 32mm stanchions except Shiver SC/DC
Slider protector Protects slider from damage when removing seals from forks with 32mm stan-
R-5124/C chions, except Shiver SC/DC
Foot-Nut socket Ultra-thin-wall socket required for access to bottom nuts that retain sliders on
R 5122/C all 2003 and later models with 32mm stanchions
Shaft clamp R-5106 Fits air-piston shaft on all Marathon models with air springs
Marathon bullet tool Required for reassembly of all Marathon models with air springs
R-5126CD
X-Fly bullet tool Required for reassembly of 2000 Z1/Z2 X-Fly models with air springs
R-5082CD
Shiver SC seal installer Installs seals in Shiver SC only
R-5107
ROCKSHOX FORK TOOLS
Bushing remover Bushing removal tool fits all RockShox models
110-006351-00
Bushing Installer Basic bushing-installation tool, needs following three kits to be complete
110-006352-00
Adapter kit Kit required so basic bushing intaller can be used on Judy, Pilot, and SID mod-
110-002860-00 els (28.6mm stanchions)
Adapter kit Kit required so basic bushing intaller can be used on Duke and Psylo models
110-006354-00 (30.0mm stanchions)
Adapter base & sleeves Additional base and sleeves required so basic bushing intaller can be used on
110-006352-00 and Boxxer models
110-006357-00
Cartridge tool Required for servicing most SID forks (removes internals from bottoms of
140-001905-00 stanchions)
FOX FORK TOOLS
Shaft clamp Required for overhaul of 2002–2003 Fox Vanilla and Float Forx
803-00-080
39 – 14
39 – APPENDIX
GENERAL MECHANIC’S TOOLS

NOTE: Brands, models, and sources shown for following tools are selected for simplicity of aquisition,
with ample consideration given to quality and economy. Many alternate brands, models, and sources
are completely suitable. Craftsman tools are sold by Sears. Tools listed as “UB Tool” may be made by
United Bicycle Supply (formerly known as United Bicycle Tool) or may be made by other manufacturers,
in which case the UB Tool item number has been used (for simplicty of aquistion). If you are a consumer
and not able to do business with UB Tool, contact Barnett Bicycle Institute directly for source informa-
tion for UB Tool items.
Craftsman 39840 Magnetic-base angle-finding tool
Craftsman 38292 Plastic/rubber mallet
Craftsman 39484 12oz. ballpeen hammer
Craftsman 3559 Hacksaw
UB Tool GN-DGT Metric/inch digital caliper with .01mm/.005" increments
UB Tool EL-2349 Metric and inch thread-pitch gauge
Craftsman 39395 Metric/inch tape measure
UB Tool GN-300ME 6" metric rule
UB Tool GN-BHE For removing burrs from inside edge of cut or faced tubes
UB Tool SP-368 Tubing/pipe cutter for sizing handlebars & threadless fork columns
Stein KT For knurling fork columns, handlebars, and seatposts to improve fit
Hozan K4B (UB Tool) Tapered reamer for enlarging small holes
Craftsman 41489 Micro-screwdriver set: slotted blades 5/64–5/32"; Phillips #00, #0, #1
Craftsman 41295 4"-long #2 Phillips
Craftsman 41589 4"-long 1/8" slotted screwdriver
Craftsman 41581 4"-long 3/16" slotted screwdriver
Craftsman 41586 1–3/4"-long 5/16" slotted screwdriver
Craftsman 47641 Hand impact driver set, for removing rusted and frozen screws
UB Tool BH-L Ball-head L-bend hex-key set (2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 5, and 6 millimeters)
UB Tool AL-800 T-handle hex-key set (2.5, 3, 4 ,5, and 6 millimeters)
Craftsman 46294 1/16–3/16" 8-piece folding hex-key set
Craftsman 42673 3mm hex-bit socket, 3/8" drive
Torx bit sockets (various) Set or individually, including at least T7, T10, T15, and T20 sizes (automo-
tive parts store may be best source)
Craftsman 44602 6" adjustable wrench
Craftsman 44603 8" adjustable wrench
Craftsman 42969 7–17mm combination wrench set
Craftsman 44808 3/8" ratchet drive, 7–3/4" long, reversible
Craftsman 43150 3/8" drive metric socket set, 7–16mm
Craftsman 44434 3/8" drive metric socket, 17mm
Continued
39 – 15
39 – APPENDIX
GENERAL MECHANIC’S TOOLS (Continued)

1/4"- or 3/8"-drive beam- 5in-lb increments, top of scale 75in-lbs or more
style in-lb torque wrench
(various brands)
3/8"-drive in-lb ratcheting 1in-lb increments, bottom setting below 40in-lbs (preferably under 30in-lbs),
torque wrench (various) top setting 200in-lbs or more
3/8"-drive ft-lb ratcheting .5ft-lb (or 5in-lb) increments, bottom setting below 15ft-lbs (180in-lbs) or
torque wrench (various) less, top setting 50ft-lbs (600in-lbs) or more
Craftsman 45103 8" needle-nose plier
Craftsman 45378 6–3/4" slip-joint plier
Craftsman 45381 9–1/2 arc-joint plier
Craftsman 45342 7–1/2" vise grips
UB Tool WL1745 4–1/2" Wilton vise
UB Tool UB-JAW4 Soft jaws for vise; use one set for grasping textured objects, use other for
(two sets) grasping flat-surface objects that will not mar soft-jaw surface
UB Tool WE-315D6 Tap set, including 10 × 1mm, 3 × .5mm, 5 × .8mm, 6 × 1mm
UB Tool VA-21916 Handle for taps up to 6 × 1mm
UB Tool VA-21911 Handle for 10 × 1mm through 9/16" × 20 taps and small reamers
UB Tool MS-BSD 6 × 1mm thread die
UB Tool MSD-10X1D 10 × 1mm thread die
UB Tool VA-21932 Handle for 6 × 1mm and 10 × 1mm thread die
UB Tool BI-10K Thread repair kit for stripped 10mm × 1mm threads
UB Tool BI-10R Reamer needed to prepare hole for 10mm × 1mm thread repair
UB Tool BI-6K Thread repair kit for stripped 6mm × 1mm threads
UB Tool BI-5K Thread repair kit for stripped 5mm × .8mm threads
UB Tool WB-DS1 & WB- Sleeve nuts for replacing stripped threads in derailleur hangers
DS2
UB Tool WB-DS/DRILL Drill bit for preparing derailleur hanger for WB-DS1 & WB-DS2
Snap-on TF1124B Inch-pitch thread file
Snap-on TFM7530B Metric-pitch thread file
Craftsman 6813 Drill bit set 11/64–1/2"
Craftsman 10218 1/2" chuck reversible drill
Craftsman 61052 Electric rotary tool
Craftsman 53060 Rotary tool accessory kit, includes grinding stones, cut-off wheels
Craftsman 17643N Air compressor, 3.5hp, 125psi line pressure
Craftsman 19062 6" bench grinder
Craftsman 43022 Punch, drift, and chisel set
UB Tool AL-2979 Seal pick and scribe tool
UB Tool UB-MAG Magnet
UB Tool GN-FHT6 (three) File handles
UB Tool SM-MB10 10" flat bastard file
UB Tool SM-MSC10 10" flat second-cut (mill bastard) file
UB Tool SM-RB10 10" round bastard file
Craftsman 6757 Needle file set for precision shaping
39 – 16

Bennet Bycicle Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bennet Bycicle Manual

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bennet Bycicle Manual

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Barnett's Manual 5th Edition—ISBN 0-931382-29-8—Copyright © 2003 by John Barnett—All duplication prohibited

Illustration, Design, and Composition

COPYRIGHT AND REPRODUCTION NOTICE

Barnett’s Manual: Analysis and Procedures for Bicycle Mechanics

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data applied for.

Printed in the USA

Distributed in the Unites States and Canada by Publishers Group West.

To purchase additional copies of this book or other VeloPress books, call

Cover design by Rebecca Finkel, F+P Graphics

BUT WHY REGISTER?

Shop name (if any): _____________________________________________

City:__________________________ State:____________ Zip:__________

REGISTER NOW (or you’ll probably forget)!

This page is blank by popular request of purchas-

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

ABOUT BARNETT BICYCLE INSTITUTE

Use the registration page to become

VOLUME 1: BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS, FRAMES, FORKS, AND BEARINGS

VOLUME 2: WHEELS, TIRES, AND DRIVETRAIN

VOLUME 3: HANDLEBARS, SEATS, SHIFT SYSTEMS, AND BRAKES

VOLUME 4: SUSPENSIONS AND APPENDIX

PURPOSES OF THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION – 1

PURPOSES OF THIS BOOK Volume Three – Chapters 28–37: Handlebars,

ABOUT THE CHAPTER

TERMINOLOGY procedure about to be undertaken is considered difficult

THE MAKINGS OF A GOOD UNDERSTANDING

NUMBERING OF TABLES AND ×

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS for me to focus on writing this book. Furthermore, Mr.

1 – BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

This 26tpi gauge (marked 26G)

Correct (engaging knife edges)

Correct (thread axis perpen-

Incorrect (thread axis paral-

Incorrect (below knife edges)

Incorrect (in part of jaw that

1 – BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

GENERAL TERMINOLOGY OF BICYCLE PARTS 1–1

1 – BASIC MECHANICAL SKILLS

Chain stay Down tube

OF BICYCLE PARTS Bottom-bracket shell

1.2 Parts of the drivetrain.

Correct (engaging knife edges)

1/16 inch increments, so always round up to the near-

est 1/16 inch or its decimal equivalent to arrive at the .6 .4

If the thread measures 5.9mm— it is 6.0mm.

If the thread measures .370"— it is .375".

If the thread measures 23/64"— it is 3/8". .1

Diameter may be measured in inches or millimeters.

PRESS FITS surfaces so that they will be free of lubrication, corrosion,

GREASE FAILURE (table 1-2)

1.12 Six-point socket (left) and twelve-point socket

1.15 Two wrenches arranged for good mechanical

1.18 These are the three positions in which the Park

2 – TAPPING BOTTOM-BRACKET-SHELL THREADS

2 – TAPPING BOTTOM-BRACKET-SHELL THREADS

GENERAL INFORMATION 2–1

2 – TAPPING BOTTOM-BRACKET-SHELL THREADS

ABOUT THIS CHAPTER Crank-arm removal and installation

2.3 If installing taps in a BSC, ISO, or Swiss threaded

2.6 The cut-and-clear technique: cut (1), clear (2),

City:________________ State: Zip: