Crankshaft Types and Differences

Crankshaft types and
differences
There are three

different manufacturing
processes used in order
to make crank shafts.
1. Casting.
2. Forging.
3. Billet machined.
The first two are

common in the
Volkswagen/Audi
range.
The last one being
more common in super
cars or race cars.
Questions often arise

as to which type crank
shaft is fitted to an
engine you have
opened given the fact
that both 1 and 2 are
fitted to power plants
we're used to dealing
with.
Ill go through them all

below, how to
recognise them, how
they are made, why the
manufacturing process
makes them
recognisable, and the
hardening process
carried out for each
type of crank which
can also effect
appearance.
Ill also go through why

one is better than the
other and why.
1. Cast Cranks.
These are around for a

long time and are
found In a lot of
engines and in both
petrol and diesels.
As the name suggests
these are cast and made
from Malleable Iron.
The shape being
defined by a sand
mould as with many
other engine parts.
These are pretty cheap
to make and hold up
fairly well too so they
are a common choice
for manufacturers.
A sand mould is made
comprising of a top and
bottom half, a pattern
is made in wood or
other material and this
forms the required
shape the mould halves
contain once they are
brought together. The
molten metal flows
into this mould relying
on gravity alone.
Both flat plane (single

plane) and cross plane
cranks can be made
this way fairly easily.
A flat plane crank is
one where the journals
are 180 degrees apart
common in all in-line
four engines.
Therefore only two
mould halves are
needed to make them
as the pattern can be
withdrawn from the
sand mould without
locking. This leads to
fairly quick production
times.
A cross plane crank on

the other hand needs a
mould of multiple parts
because the journals
and counter weights
are not symmetrical
either side of the
parting line(where both
mould halves meet)
Therefore withdrawing
the pattern from just
two halves would be
impossible.
This isn't a major issue
all the same as once the
moulds are figured out
production is just as
fast as for a single
plane crank.
Here is a single plane

crank common to in-
line four engines.
Notice how it is
symmetrical so only
two moulds halves are
needed to cast it. It has
just one casting line
along its centre.
Here is a cross plane
crank common in V
engines. Notice the
journals are 90 degrees
apart. This makes a two
mould cast impossible
as the pattern could not
be withdrawn from the
two mould halves so a
more complex mould
build is needed. On
older cast cranks of this
type many different
parting lines can be
seen in different
locations on the cranks
due to multiple moulds
being used to build the
finished mould.
Its pretty easy to tell if
your crank shaft is cast
by looking at it a bit
closer.
On a cast crank you
will see the parting line
easily. This line is
created where both
mould halves come
together.
The line will be easy to
see, defined, and
approx 2mm wide. On
an in-line 4 flat plane
crank it falls on the
centre line of the crank
also.
I may as well mention
grain structure now at
this stage too, metals
have grain structure,
the easiest way to
describe this without
going into too much
boring detail is to think
of each grain as an
arrow.
When a part is cast
such as the crank above
your spilling in all
these arrows into the
mould at once, and
under atmospheric
pressure. This as you
can imagine leads to
slight chaos within the
mould. The arrows
have no order,
direction, or organised
layout. They also aren't
as close to each other
as they could be. This
in turn effects the over
all strength and
properties of the
finished crank. But it is
a quick process and the
crank can be cast to
pretty much near its
final dimensions so
minimal machine time
is required.
Mould manufacture is
also fairly cost
effective with this
process.
Below is a close up of
a VW cast crank,
notice the defined
parting line and
slightly rough texture
the metal has taken
when poured into the
sand mould.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized
768x1024.
And a close up on the
counter weight
showing sand like
texture.
1024x768.
And the picture below
showing the micro
structure. Notice how
the carbon has clumped
in some places, and
also the general
randomness of the
material itself.
Even on a cut cast
crank I have you can
see the carbon present
on the cut face. This is
the main reason why
cast has such good
wear properties as it is
self lubricating to agree
due to this
carbon/graphite.
1024x768.
Cast cranks can be
flame hardened to
improve wear
resistance in particular
areas.
Flame hardening
involves aiming gas
flames to particular
areas which require
hardening.
This is sometimes done
on a jig having
multiple flame jets
aimed at, in this case
the various bearing
journals.
Once the desired
temperature is reached
the crank is then
quenched in molten
salt and oil.
Water is rarely used in
this direct contact case
as it extracts the heat
so fast as cracking may
occur.
After flame hardening
the casting then
consists of a hard,
wear-resistant outer
layer of martensite and
a core of softer grey
Iron.
Flame-hardened
castings are stress
relieved at 150 to
200°C after quenching
to remove any tension
caused from the
quenching process. It is
at this stage that the
final journal grinding
can occur.
Below is an example of
a flame jig, although it
is for a camshaft the
principles are the same.
Aiming the jets at just
the bearing areas
ensures that the crank
still remains ductile in
other stressed areas.
800x673.
That pretty covers the
basics of cast cranks
and how to recognise
them, now onto forged
cranks.
2. Forged Cranks.
These are a more
robust crank than a cast
crank for a few
reasons.
They are more
commonly found in
higher stressed engines
and come standard in
some 16v engines and
almost all of the 1.8T
engines. I do believe
they feature in the new
fsi engines too,
although I have not yet
got the pleasure of
getting my hands on
one>yet.
A forge crank is made

in a totally different
way to a cast one.
A set of dies are

machined to the
approximate shape of
the crankshaft as
below.
These dies sit in a very
large hydraulic press
having a clamping
force of many many
tons.
A hot bar
approximately 150mm
in diameter is placed
onto the bottom die and
the dies are closed.
The bar is of high
grade steel alloy
containing all the
various metals needed
in order for the finished
crank to fulfil its job.
One benefit of this is
the metal does not need
to have certain
properties required for
casting, fluidity when
molten, etc.
Once the dies are
closed the metal is
squeezed in very
tightly, this has the
effect of making the
metal more dense,
packing the arrows
closer together if you
like, and also given the
fact the entire bar is
pressed into the shape
of the dies the grain
structure also follows
the shape of the crank
throughout too. The
material is then both
compacted and aligned
better than with the
casting process.
Below is a set of
forging dies for a flat
plane crank, these dies
are extremely costly to
manufacture, one of the
reasons why forged
stuff is dearer than cast
counter parts.
Notice the four posts at
the corners, these act as
position and as limit
stops.
768x1024.
Here you can see the
dies fitted to the press
and the heated blank
within.
1023x680.
Brian.G
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1st January
10, 15:09
Brian.G
Paid
Member 3. Billet Cranks.
Billet cranks are the best type of crank you can have in your engine if you want to get the most
it.
They start off again as a very high grade steel containing all the correct alloys needed to meet t
demands. 4340 steel is normally used which contains nickel, chromium, aluminium, and
Join Date: molybdenum amongst other elements.
Feb 2008
Location: The Steel blank is then forged to align the grain and compact all the molecules closer together
West of the case of the forged crank.
Ireland
Posts: 1,543 The dense blank is then ready for machining.
These cranks are the dearest of all for many reasons.
The main one being the amount of time needed to machine them, and also the fact that
approximately 70% of the billet will end up as swarf.
Here you can see a billet crank in various stages of production, it is from a Ferrari.
Its pretty easy to tell a billet crank from any other, for a start it has no part lines or wide flash l
They are usually very nicely machined to very exact specifications.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is siz
800x600.
1024x768.
They also require minimal balancing due to the uniform make up of the material and the extrem
accurate machining carried out throughout.
Billet cranks also have one major manufacturing benefit and that is the blank.
You can xray the blank and carry out any other tests necessary during machining. That way yo
know your going to have the perfect crank once your done milling containing no irregular zone
pockets.
This is not watched as close with cast or forged cranks.
Machining is also a more controlled process over-all so any internal stresses or defects get iron
out through stress relieving during and up to the final machining.
These type cranks are normally hardened at particular areas such as the journals through a nitri
surface hardening process.
The crank is finished machined to the correct tolerances before this begins.
The journals are heated in the presence of ammonia gas, the nitrogen in the gas soaks into the s
The alloying elements in the crank form nitrides towards the surface and form a hard skin arou
the journal.
This is over all an easier process on the crank than the other methods and your not grinding aw
any of it after.
Care should be taken on regrinding a billet crank because this hardened layer is not as thick as
the other methods.
Which one is better and why.
Cast.
Forged.
Billet.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz1TJeuwQV0 < VW 2.0l 16v cutaway video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7rXuaJMhOc < VW 1.8T cutaway video
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215166< Agg 8v Cutaway Pictures.
Last edited by Brian.G; 1st January 10 at 23:46.
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1st January 10, 16:30 #3
danster
Paid Member
Excellent info there!
The pics really show the difference between the cast and
forged cranks.
I found the 2.0 forged cranks are a couple of pounds or so

Join Date: Apr 2008 little lighter than the cast ones.
Posts: 5,435 I weighed them when i was building a 2E 8v and an ABF
16v. Both were standard and not ground or lightened in any
way.
I have also used the forged one out of a Audi 6A 2.0 16v as i
did not need the trigger wheel and presume a 9A 2.0 16v
would be the same too.
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1st January 10, 16:34 #4
Brian.G
Paid Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by danster
Excellent info there!
The pics really show the difference between the cast and
forged cranks.
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: West of Ireland I found the 2.0 forged cranks are a couple of pounds or so
Posts: 1,543 little lighter than the cast ones.
I weighed them when i was building a 2E 8v and an ABF
16v. Both were standard and not ground or lightened in
any way.
I have also used the forged one out of a Audi 6A 2.0 16v as
i did not need the trigger wheel and presume a 9A 2.0 16v
would be the same too.
Indeed, they are a touch lighter due to them being more
dense, therefore they can be made slightly slimmer but have
still hold the strength.
I have a bit left to fill in later on why one is better than the
other, I want to keep it fairly simple and not turn it into a
metallurgy session which can be a bit tiresome to read.
It should still give a good insight to the different types and
processes all the same.
For anyone interested it was this thread that nudged me to do

the above.
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204712
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1.8T cutaway video
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215166<
Agg 8v Cutaway Pictures.
Last edited by Brian.G; 1st January 10 at 16:42.

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1st January 10, 16:40 #5
2dubnick
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great thread, only just had a skim read now but look
Join Date: Nov 2006 forward to a good read later.
Location: Worcester
Posts: 4,313 Cheers Brian
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1st January 10, 20:42 #6
Neal H
Forum User
Well done Brian. Interesting and informative read. What
Join Date: Oct 2007 would be useful would be to add which engine codes used
Posts: 612 which type of crank...
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1st January 10, 23:19 #7
Brian.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neal H
Well done Brian. Interesting and informative read. What
would be useful would be to add which engine codes used
which type of crank...
Join Date: Feb 2008 Yes great idea, could be done here or in another thread?
Location: West of Ireland Maybe here as it would be kept altogether then? I dont know,
Posts: 1,543 up to the mods.
The few Im aware of below.
S=Short nose
L=Long nose.
With some work a long nose 06A crank can be made to fit
the 058 block.
1.8l 8v PG > Cast(s)

1.8l 8v PB > Cast(s)
2.0l 8v 2E > Cast(s)
1.8l 16v KR > Cast(s)
2.0l 16v ABF > Forged(s)
2.0l 8v ABK, 3A, AAD, AAE, ADW > Forged(s)
2.0l 16v 6A, ACE > Forged(s)
1.8l 20vT AEB > Cast(s)
1.8l 20vT AUG > Forged(l)
1.8l 20vT BAM > Forged(l)
Please add more if you know of any

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2nd January 10, 21:00 #8
cerips
Forum User
Good thread Brian,
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 809 some more for the list:-
6A crank has the same part No. on ETKA as ABK, 3A,

AAD, AAE, ADW (All 2.0L 8v) and the ACE (2.0L 16v)
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2nd January 10, 21:06 #9
Brian.G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cerips
Good thread Brian,
some more for the list:-
Join Date: Feb 2008 6A crank has the same part No. on ETKA as ABK, 3A, AAD,
Location: West of Ireland AAE, ADW (All 2.0L 8v) and the ACE (2.0L 16v)
Posts: 1,543
Edited, thanks a lot
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cutaway video
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2nd January 10, 21:51 #10
RobT
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lovin this, nice one
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Cheshire my lad has been making forged plastacine fish since
Posts: 3,393 christmas day
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2nd January 10, 23:26 #11
Toyotec
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Quote:
Please add more if you know of any
1.8l 8v PG, 1H > Cast(s) 0261051013E
1.8l 8v PB, GU > Cast(s) 0261051013 early supeceded by
0261051013E
Join Date: Jul 2006 1.8l 16v KR, PL > Cast(s) 0261051013E
Location: The car in front 2.0l 16v All > Forged(s) 053105101H
is MY Volkswagen 2.0l 8v ABK, 3A, AAD, AAE, ADW > Forged(s) as above.
Posts: 4,209 2.0l 8v AGG, ADY, 2E > Cast (058 block)053105101K, Seat
part #'s suggest use ABF unit.
1.8l 20v ADR, > Cast(s) 026105101R ( manual) 3B Passat/8D
A4
1.8l 20v AEB, APU > Cast(s) 026105101R ( manual) 3B
Passat/8D A4
1.8l 20vT AGU, ARZ, AUM, AUQ, APX,APY, AMK, BAM >
Forged (06A block) 06A105021
1.8 20v AGN > Forged (06A block) 06A105021 Golf Mk4
N/A
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2nd January 10, 23:36 #12
Brian.G
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Fantastic!
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1.8T cutaway video
Join Date: Feb 2008 http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215166<
Location: West of Ireland Agg 8v Cutaway Pictures.
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3rd January 10, 00:09 #13
Toyotec
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2.0 20v ALT > Forged 06A block 06A105021E 3B3 Passat
and 8E Audi A4
2.0 16v FSI AXW > as above
2.0 16v TFSI early 06A105021E then 06A105021S and
06A15021AR
Join Date: Jul 2006 Vortex thread with pictures what the TFSI cranks look like.
Location: The car in front http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3517106
is MY Volkswagen __________________
Posts: 4,209 VW16vT, Skyline GTR or EVO 3. 1WD or 4WD, nothing
comes close to boosted displacement

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3rd January 10, 00:40 #14
Brian.G
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Great stuff, coming along well. Actually, I wonder could
these be tidy'd into some form of table or something?
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Last edited by Brian.G; 3rd January 10 at 00:44.
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3rd January 10, 06:37 #15
mark25
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I thought the crank in the Passat PB engine was different to
Join Date: Oct 2003 the rest of the PB cranks.
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3rd January 10, 12:14 #16
TheSecondComing
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I have a 2E engine in the garage with a forged crank and
Join Date: Oct 2003 rods, for some reason? Maybe a replacement?
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any given day. Cheers,
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The True Christ.
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3rd January 10, 12:45 #17
Toyotec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSecondComing
I have a 2E engine in the garage with a forged
crank and rods, for some reason? Maybe a
replacement?
Join Date: Jul 2006 Might be although Seat says that some may have
Location: The car in front is MY the forged unit found on 16vs
Volkswagen __________________
Posts: 4,209 VW16vT, Skyline GTR or EVO 3. 1WD or
4WD, nothing comes close to boosted
displacement

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3rd January 10, 13:21 #18
Hotgolf
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I've had 2e cranks here nearly identical to valvers. They
Join Date: Apr 2004 seem to swap and change every-so-often.
Location: Bahamas The early cast 20v crank I borrowed not long back was the
Posts: 3,185 best cast cranks I'd seen in a long while. Totally even, with
only the small amount of balancing required.
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5th January 10, 13:40 #19
danster
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May be worth noting which cranks come with the trigger
wheels, aswell as stroke, forged or cast, long or short nose.
Heard the trigger wheel cranks are more awkward to have
lightened because of maintaning the face the wheel goes
onto.
Couple of threads going on about the diesel block and crank
Join Date: Apr 2008 at the moment and there are options on those cranks too.
Posts: 5,435
Diesel cranks.
1Y, AAZ - no trigger wheel, 95.5mm stroke, short nose,
AHU, 1Z - trigger wheel, 95.5mm stroke, short nose,
AGP, AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV - trigger wheel,

95.5mm stroke, long nose,
There may be a change in the way the timing belt pulley is

held / located on the crank nose on some of the TDI cranks.
D instead of keyway.
Not had a chance to double check if these are cast or forged

yet. I think cast but not 100%. Let me know and can edit.
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5th January
#20
10, 17:07
Chris Eyre
Administrator
If poss, it might be worth adding what cars these codes are out of. People
know the mainstream ones, but AGR, ALH etc gets me a big fat fail.
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2003
Location: Quote:
Need to know
basis! Originally Posted by Neal H
Posts: 36,977 Yes, I heard that at 250 rpm the 8v has more torque. Something to do with
the starter motor
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1Y Crank Standard 95.5mm stroke
800x600.
ABF Eurospec Billet Race Crank 92.8mm stroke
800x600.
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Last edited by Brookster; 5th January 10 at 19:35.
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5th January 10, 20:16 #22
danster
Paid Member
The pic of the 1Y crank above shows some kind of tin
wheel with cut out similar to the petrol trigger wheel type.
Are you 100% that is a 1Y crank?
I have not come across this and as the IDI has no
electronic pump control wonder if that is not maybe a TDI
crank?
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,435 Possibly it is a very late IDI one and is used for diagnosis
or pump timing.
The engine codes will be difficult to link to actual cars as

there is such a large range with all the seat, skoda,vw, audi
and ford vehicles that use them.
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6th
January 10,
08:15
Brookster
VW Veteran Brian more pix for you.

800x600.
Join Date:
May 2004
Location:
M1 J40
Posts: 4,662
800x600.
800x600.
800x600.
800x600.

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Crankshaft types and

There are three

The first two are

Questions often arise

Ill go through them all

Ill also go through why

These are around for a

Both flat plane (single

A cross plane crank on

Here is a single plane

A forge crank is made

A set of dies are

Which one is better and why.

Last edited by Brian.G; 1st January 10 at 23:46.

I found the 2.0 forged cranks are a couple of pounds or so

For anyone interested it was this thread that nudged me to do

Last edited by Brian.G; 1st January 10 at 16:42.

The few Im aware of below.

1.8l 8v PG > Cast(s)

Please add more if you know of any

Last edited by Brian.G; 2nd January 10 at 21:06.

6A crank has the same part No. on ETKA as ABK, 3A,

some more for the list:-

315PS 16vT WOLF R build here.

Last edited by Toyotec; 2nd January 10 at 23:49.

315PS 16vT WOLF R build here.

Last edited by Brian.G; 3rd January 10 at 00:44.

315PS 16vT WOLF R build here.

1Y, AAZ - no trigger wheel, 95.5mm stroke, short nose,

AHU, 1Z - trigger wheel, 95.5mm stroke, short nose,

AGP, AQM, AGR, ALH, AHF, ASV - trigger wheel,

There may be a change in the way the timing belt pulley is

Not had a chance to double check if these are cast or forged

Join Date: Oct

4 Cylinder 2036cc & 16valve ABF

Last edited by Brookster; 5th January 10 at 19:35.

The engine codes will be difficult to link to actual cars as

VW Veteran Brian more pix for you.

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