Afmm Workbook

NED UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING
ADVANCED FABRIC MANUFACTURING MECHANISMS

(TE-462 )
FINAL YEAR
NAME: __________________________
ROLL NO: _______________________
BATCH: __________________________
Advanced Fabric Manufacturing Mechanisms
PRACTICAL PLAN
S. Date Practical Titles Remarks

No
1 To study cam shedding mechanism on Air Jet
weaving machine (ZA 705) and to calculate warp
tension during cam shedding and draw geometry
of the shed
2 To study cam shedding mechanism on Rapier
weaving machine and to calculate warp tension
during cam shedding in the Rapier weaving
machine and draw geometry of the shed
3 To study Dobby shedding in the shuttle weaving
machine and explain its working with the help of
illustrations.
4 To study Jacquard shedding mechanism and

explain its working with the help of illustrations.
5 To determine repeat/design of the Jacquard

fabric provided. Find number of hooks and their
configuration required for its construction on
Jacquard machine.
6 To study Air jet Weft insertion mechanism and
to measure timings of Air jet weaving machine
for the primary motions. Draw timing diagrams
7 To study the Weft Insertion System of Projectile
Weaving Machine and to measure timings of
Projectile weaving machine equipped with
Jacquard for the primary motions and draw
timing diagrams
8 To study the drive transmission and picking
mechanism of Projectile Weaving machine.
9 To study the weft insertion mechanism of Rapier

weaving machine and to measure timings of
Rapier weaving machine for the primary
motions. Draw timing diagrams
10 To study the fundamental warp knitting stitches
on knitting board
1
11 To study towel manufacturing on Terry weaving

machine. Calculate pile height, pile ratio and pile
yarn consumption of the terry samples provided
12 To study different types of selvedge formation

mechanisms
13 To study fabric manufacturing on knit-braider
machine
14 To study fabric defects and identify defects on
the fabric samples provided.
2
Practical No. 1
Objective:
To study cam shedding mechanism on Air Jet weaving machine (ZA 705) and to calculate warp
tension during cam shedding and draw geometry of the shed.
Introduction:
Cam shedding, also known as tappet shedding, is the control of the movement of heald shafts in
weaving simple constructions by means of cams or tappets. These cams convert the rotary motion
of the main shaft of the weaving machine into the reciprocating motion of the heald frames.
The main parts include: Motor, Motor pulley, M/C pulley, Crank shaft, Crank shaft gear, Bottom
shaft gear, Bottom shaft, Tappet, Connecting rod, Heald shaft, Top arm
Figure 1: Cam Shedding
Driving of shedding tappet:

At first machine pulley gets drive by belt from motor pulley. Then machine pulley, which is
directly joined with the crank shaft, gives motion to bottom shaft. This crank shaft gives motion
to bottom shaft via gearing. Two tappets are joined with the bottom shaft. So when bottom shaft
moves then the tappets also rotate. When it gets contact with treadle bowl it lifts the treadle levers
and the heald shafts are lifted by treadle levers via links. As this is a negative shedding tappet the
heald shafts are lowered by their own weight.
They are of two main types:

1) Positive shedding tappet: In positive cam shedding, the heddle (or heald) shafts are both raised
and lowered by the tappets.
2) Negative shedding tappet: In negative cam shedding, the heald shafts are either raised or
lowered by the mechanism but are returned by the action of an external device, usually springs.
3
The maximum number of heald shafts controlled by tappet shedding is 12, but this is not possible
in practice.
SHED GEOMETRY: On a weaving loom, warp yarn are divided into two half to make up a shed.
This division makes up a specific geometry of divided warp yarns called “Shed Geometry”.
Shed Geometry plays vital role in controlling warp yarns: Tension, Elongation and Friction
between them. Resultantly this helps in controlling: Weft Density of Fabric by controlling pick
penetration, Warp and weft yarn breakages and loom stoppages, hence machine efficiency. And
also help to control/avoid fabric faults produced due to these.
A simplified geometry of the shed is shown Figure 2.
Figure 2: Geometry of shed

The main shed parameters are as follows:
 L 1: length of the front shed
 L2: length of the back shed
 H : shed height
When the healds are on the warp line (healds are levelled), the path taken by the warp is the
shortest. However, as the healds move away from the warp line, the warp takes a longer path.
Thus, warp yarns are extended which has to be compensated either by the extensibility of the warp
or by the regulation of the yarn delivery system. If the length of the back shade is increases, then
yarn extension is reduced and this if preferred for weaving delicate yarns like silk. However,
shorter back shed creates clearer shed and it is preferred for weaving coarser and hairy yarns. It is
important to understand the factors which influence the degree of yarn extension during the shed
formation. A simplified mathematical model has been presented to relate the warp strain with the
shed parameters.
CALCULATION OF WARP STRAIN DURING SHEDDING:
4
Figure 3: Warp strain during shedding
Let us consider h as half of the shed height. Therefore, H = 2h
The ratio of lengths of front and back shed is called shed symmetry parameter ( i ).
5
Observation:
SERIAL ROTATION SHED OPENING
NO.
1 2 3 4
1 0°
2 90°
3 180°
4 270°
Results:
6
Practical No. 2
OBJECTIVE:
To calculate warp tension during Tappet Shedding in the Rapier weaving machine and draw
geometry of the shed.
Weaving is one of the most important fabric manufacturing processes. For producing good quality
fabric proper warp tension is a vital need. High tension may cause high warp breakage and low
tension can cause different fabric faults. For ensuring proper warp tension, electronic warp control
(EWC) is used in the modern loom. But changing of different loom setting points can play an
important role in determining proper warp tension which may be an important tool for eliminating
starting mark, weaving damage, frequent false stoppage etc. As tension varies with the change of
fabric structure, the tension should be readjusted just after changing any design.
SHEDDING:
In weaving, the shedding is the temporary separation between upper and lower warp yarns
through which the weft is woven. The shed is created to make it easy to interlace the weft into the
warp and thus create woven fabric.
Shedding can be of three types:
i. Cam shedding
ii. Dobby shedding
iii. Jacquard shedding
The shedding mechanism in the Rapier loom available in the Weaving Lab is Cam Shedding.
Cam shedding can further be divided into two types:
i. Positive Shedding: Cam is used to lifting as well as lowering of harness frames.

ii. Negative shedding: The frames are raised using Cam, but lowering of frames is done
by ropes or spring.
Here, negative cam shedding mechanism is observed in rapier loom in which frames are lifted with
the help of Cam. As the frame lifts, a string winds around a roller which is unwound to lower the
frame.
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Geometry Of The Shed:
T1
T2
W
L1 = 18 cm
L2 = 40 cm
H = 14.8 cm
Observations:
DEGREE OF MAIN DISTANCE TRAVELLED
SHAFT BY RAPIER(cm)
0 0
20 1
40 3.5
60 6.7
80 8.4
100 9
120 9
140 9
260 11
280 8.6
300 6.9
320 3.6
340 1.5
360 0
8
DEGREES OF MAIN TAKER DISTANCE (cm)

SHAFT
20 2
40 8.8
60 17.5
80 37
100 59
120 83
140 107
160 122.5
180 128
200 123
220 108
240 84
260 60
280 38
300 20.2
320 9.2
340 2.5
360 0
Calculations:
FOR FRONT SHED: 3
3
L132 = L122 + h2
L12 = (L13 – h )1/2
1 2
L12 = (18 – 7.4)1/2 2
L12 = 3.255 cm
FOR BACK SHED:
3
L342 = L242 + h2
L24 = (L34 – H)1/2
L24 = (40- 7.4) 1/2

2 4
L24 = 5.709 cm
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TOTAL LENGTH = L= LF + LB
Total length = 3.255 + 5.709
Total length = 8.964 cm
Warp Tension (T) = (W x L) / (2 H)
W= 100 N
T = (100 N x 8.964 cm) / (2 x 14.8 cm)
T = 30.2 N
Result:
Hence, the warp tension has been found to be 30.2 N.
10
Practical No.3
Objective:
To study dobby shedding in the shuttle weaving machine and explain its working with the help of
illustrations.
Theory:
Dobby: Dobby is a shedding mechanism placed on the top of the loom in order to produce figured
patterns by using large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. This is a compact,
electronically guided shedding motion and capable of having up to 28 shafts. More complex and
versatile shedding motion. A dobby loom, therefore, can have up to 28 shafts, and much greater
weave repeat is possible. Design may be woven with two or more basic weaves and their variation.
Such fabrics may be referred as dobby cloths or dobby weave, towels usually show geometric
designs when pattern is provided by dobby.
Scope of dobby: The scope of dobby is limited between a tappet and a jacquard. The number of
shafts that can be actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control
48 shafts (maximum). However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied
fibres. Again, for cotton and allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these case
healds are operated by jacks and levers.
Classification Of Dobby:Dobby shedding classify in a number of ways.
According to lift:
(a) Single lift
(b) Double lift
According to position of heald shaft:
(a) Vertical
(b) Horizontal
According to driving of heald shaft:
(a) Positive
(b) Negative
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Negative dobby shedding: In this type of shed, lowering of the heald frame occurred
mechanically.
Construction: In the negative shedding the heald frames are operated by the jack & lever. The
levers are connected with the knife and the knifes are attached with the driving rod by means of
connecting needle. A pattern is used here according to the weave plan. When the teeth of chain is
come to the contact of chain drum then whole the arrangement moves together and lowering of the
heald frame is occurred by the spring as shown in Figure 1.
Figure 1 Negative dobby shedding

Working Principle: The lowering of the heald frame is happens here by spring or jack lever.
When the pattern cylinder doesn’t find peg on the pattern drum then back lever and jack lever
bring the heald frame in downward direction, therefore the lowering of the heald frame is occurred
by means of spring tension.
Advantages of Negative Dobby:

1. Highly complex and critical fabrics can be weaved.
2. At a time, it can control many heald frame
3. More faster than the positive dobby as well as over conventional loom
4. Can produce close bottom shed
Disadvantages of Negative Dobby:

1. In this shed only lowering of the shed is possible
2. Due to more stress, yarn breakages more
3. It is not good for heavier fabric
4. It does not provide more high speed to the loom
12
Positive Dobby Shedding: In this type of shed lifting & lowering of the heald frame both is
possible. lifting is occurred by means of jack & lever, and lowering is occurred by means of
spring under tension.
Figure 2 Negative dobby shedding
Construction and Working Principle: Positive dobby shedding is the combination of three
Cylinders, jack lever, spring and a shaft. Between the three cylinders a shaft is fulcrum in one side
the upper cylinder moves as the anti-clockwise and lower cylinder moves as the clock wise
direction. The main cylinder when get motion from the shaft when it found peg or pattern plan
then the cylinder attached with the upper half toothed disc. So that the heald frame is up, & when
the pattern cylinder doesn’t found peg then the main cylinder attached with the lower half toothed
disc and the spring retains the heald frame to the downward direction as Figure 2.
Result:
The study of different type of dobby shedding mechanism has been carried out.
13
Practical No. 03
Objective:
To study Jacquard Shedding Mechanism and explain its working with the help of illustrations.
Apparatus:
Staubli’s DX-100 Electronic Jacquard Machine
Theory:
For Flat Fabrics And Terry Cloth:

The electronic Jacquard machines DX 100 and DX 110 are particularly suited to the fabrication of
Flat fabrics and terry cloth. They can be equipped with a maximum Number of 1408 or 2688
hooks. The novel machine design, which also includes patented M6, ensures Maximum
profitability in Fabric production. Maintenance is reduced to a minimum owing To two parallel
shafts control by Cam unit, a pioneering mechanical Concept. These machines are particularly
reliable and easy-to-use. The compact design, outstanding for its simplicity, is a guarantee of even
longer working life. Its modern Conception contains special Kinematics that provide DX 100And
DX 110 accurate operation, Exempt from vibration, even at High speed.
An Extensive Range Of Use:

Jacquard machines DX 100 and DX 110 are suitable for all the different weft insertion systems,
for excellent results in virtually all applications, including terry, furnishing, decorative, silk and
clothing
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fabrics. Owing to Stäubli’s know how, Jacquard machines and harnesses are perfectly adapted to
weaving machines to guarantee optimal installation output.
Transmission:
The DX 100 and DX 110 are delivered with the adaptation elements required for each type of
weaving machine pre-installed. The trans-mission is based on a card and drive with bevel gears,
whose position is determined according to the weaving machine to optimize the card and shaft
angle. For wide reed spaces, the optional addition of a modulator accelerates shed opening. The
compact structure of DX 100 and DX 110 machines enables them to be used on standard frames
and in low-ceiling weaving rooms.
Transmission System
Control Box:
Each machine has its own electrical power supply and is equipped with an electronic controller
and is equipped with a JC6 electronic controller with touch screen. This user-friendly interface
between the user and the DX features the latest generation of microprocessor. A flash disk
advantageously replaces hard drive technology and patterns can be transferred either via USB key,
external drive or the network. The latter offers multiple possibilities and facilitates weaving room
management or several remote sites.
15
The M6 Module:
The patented M6 module ensures the connection between the lifting mechanism and the harness.
Compact, and engineered from composite materials, the M6 module is sealed and wear resistant
and consumes very little energy.
Selecting Hooks in a Module:

The double roller enables the upper and lower shed position of the harness cords in double lift.
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Low Shed Position

The electromagnet (f) is activated .The retaining hook (c) does not retain the mobile hook (a) which
follows the lowering knife (e).
Upper Shed Position
The electromagnet (f) is not activated. The retaining hook (c) retains the mobile hook (a).
Simplified Kinematics
Only minimum maintenance is required with a simplified kinematic system. Years of wear-free
running are guaranteed. Knives are moved by a main shaft underneath the lower shed position and
Owing to their compact design and numerous configuration possibilities, the DX100 and DX 110
adapt easily to all weaving requirements. They can be easily adapted into existing plants having
just a small amount of available space. The connections with the harness allow easy installation
and thus reduce start-up time. Thanks to its simple operation, personnel training time is reduced;
the weaving installation thus is operational much faster. Reduced maintenance During the Jacquard
machine design phase, Stäubli engineers addressed the specific c needs and problems of weaving
installations.
Reduced Maintenance
The DX 100 / DX 110’s robust construction is adapted to daily use. Even in a highly dusty
environment, the machines require only a minimum amount of maintenance. For the DX 110, the
fan filters are cleaned by vacuum cleaning without any disassembly. Centralized lubrication points
are easily accessible and can be checked without difficulty.
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Harnesses
Developed thanks to Stäubli’s know-how, our harnesses are designed for all applications: labels,
silk goods, lining, clothing, upholstery fabrics, table and bed linen, automotive seats, airbags,
bedspreads, terry cloth and pile fabric .Our harness specialists have developed a line of harness
cords, heddles and springs depending on the article, the characteristics of the warp yarn and the
weaving conditions. The comber boards are made and drilled to customer specifications .The links
between the harness cords and the heddles, the heddles and the springs are designed to meet all
your needs.
Harness Frames
Blowbar Blowing System

Designed to facilitate the cleaning of harness springs, Stäubli developed the BLOBAR automatic
blowing system, at the back of the down pull frame. The pneumatic blowing device limits f y
deposit and facilitates manual cleaning.
Blow bar blowing system
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Practical No.5
Objective:
To measure timings of Air jet weaving machine for the primary motions. Draw timing diagram.
Theory:
The air jet weaving machines are the weaving machines with the highest weft insertion rate and
are considered as the most productive in the manufacturing of light to medium weight fabrics,
preferably made of cotton and certain man-made fibres. It has technically positive results with
heavy weight fabrics (denims) and also for terry production.
Primary motions of the weaving machine:

These are fundamental or essential motions. Without these motions, it is practically impossible to
produce a fabric. It is for this reason that these motions are called ‘primary’ motions. There are
three primary motions in the process of weaving.
A. Shedding: The shedding mechanism separates the warp threads into two layers or divisions
to form a tunnel known as ‘shed’.
B. Picking: The picking mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the
other through the shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier, a needle, an air-jet or a
water-jet. The inserted weft thread is known as “pick”.
C. Beat-up: The beat-up mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread
(pick) into the already woven fabric at a point known as “fell of the cloth”.
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Importance of timings in weaving fabrics:

Timings are very important as they decide the opening and closing of the shed, the dwell time, the
insertion of the weft yarn and the beat up mechanism. It is important for a weaving machine to
have proper timings in order to weave an acceptable fabric. If the timings are not proper, the fabric
that will be produced may be defected.
Measuring the loom timings:

There is a mark present on the wheel of the main shaft which is driven by the main motor. The
wheel is rotated slowly in order to measure the timings (degrees) with the help of the mark present
on the wheel.
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Timings of the primary motions of an air jet loom [Model No. GA 605
XIANYANG]:
TIMING FUNCTIONS
0 Beat-up
90 Shed opens & pick insertion starts
147 Shed is full open Dwell time
190 Shed starts closing (shed is full open)
270 Shed closes
290 Cross shed
360 Beat-up
Shed opens & pick insertion starts

90
180 0 Beat-up
270 290 Cross shed

Shed closes
21
Practical No. 06
Objective:
To determine the repeat design of Jacquard fabric provided. Find number of hooks and their
configuration required for its construction on Jacquard machine.
Theory:
The Jacquard machine is a device fitted to a power loom that simplifies the process of
manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns. Initially the jacquard loom was designed in
such a way that it could control a small number of ends by virtue of punch cards.
With the increasing pace of technological advancements, the Jacquard fabric is now woven using
a computerized process. The modern computer controlled jacquard looms don’t have any punched
cards, and can have thousands of hooks. The threading of yarns in the Jacquard loom is a labor
intensive process where thousands of hooks are threaded with numerous yarns, but the
computerized process automates the whole designing process making it less time consuming and
more quality intensive which creates complex designs with ease. The threading of yarns in the
Jacquard loom is a labor intensive process where thousands of hooks are threaded with numerous
yarns, but the computerized process automates the whole designing process making it less time
consuming and more quality intensive which creates complex designs with ease.
The following figure shows a lifting plan that can be made using a jacquard loom.
22
Sample Fabric:
Result:
Number of repeat/design on the Jacquard fabric provided are _____________
Number of hooks required for the given construction of fabric on Jacquard machine___________
23
Practical No. 07
Objective:
To study the weft insertion mechanism of Projectile Weaving Machine and to measure timings of
Projectile Weaving Machine for primary motions. Draw timings diagrams.
Theory:
Projectile weaving machine comes under the category of shuttle-less loom. In projectile looms a
small metal device resembling a bullet in appearance known as “projectile” with a clamp for
gripping the yarn at one end, is used for filling the weft yarn. The projectile which is then propelled
into and through the shed. The number of projectiles used for the weft insertion depends on the
weaving width. The projectile with their grippers take out the weft yarn from big cross-wound
bobbins and insert it into the shed always in the same direction.
The mechanism for the weft insertion in projectile machine is as follow:
 The generated energy is stored in a spring or torsion rod and release it suddenly when
required.
 Because the energy is released suddenly, the weft carrier speed is independent of the loom
speed.
 The force exerted by the torsion rod is greatest at the instant of release and decreases
steadily to zero.
 In this mechanism, a more uniform acceleration can be achieved
The components help in the weft insertion in projectile loom are:
 Weft accumulator:
The weft yarn accumulator is present between the weft package and the weft brake of weaving
machine. It draws the weft yarn at a constant speed from the package and winds in parallel winding
onto the smooth accumulator drum. The winding speed can be adjusted with the help of a
potentiometer.
 Yarn brake:
It is part of the yarn the yarn tensioner. Its work is to brake the weft yarn at the end of weft insertion.
 Yarn Tensioner:
The weft tensioner is arranged between weft packages and shed. It comprises of weft brake and
weft tensioner lever. It take up the inserted weft thread so that it can be gripped on the both sides
in stretched condition by selvedge grippers. It also takes up the cut off weft end during recovery
period so that it can be taken over in the stretched condition by the next projectile. It also acts as a
buffer as it delivers the stores between weft package and projectile during acceleration stage.
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 Projectile feeder :
The projectile feeder is provided with a gripping element .Its gripping element is controlled by a
gripper spring. The gripping force of gripping jaws of projectile feeder is checked by a spring
balance. Its work is to hold or grip the weft yarn from the projectile opener.
 Projectile feeder opener:

The projectile feeder opener opens the projectile feeder by forcing the gripping elements of the
feeder apart to free the weft yarn.
 Projectile:
It is the main weft insertion element of the projectile loom which insert the weft yarn across the
width of the machine. It has a gripping element which acts as a spring.
 Projectile lifter:
It is present at the picking side of the machine. It lifts the projectile expelled by the receiving unit
to the level of the weft threads held by the gripping element of projectile feeder.
 Picking shoe:
The picking lever carries the picking shoe at its top end. Its work is to accelerate the projectile
into the shed.
 Selvedge gripper:
It grips the selvedges on both picking and receiving sides such that the tension of the fabric remain
constant.
 Cutter:
The cutting device is driven by special coupling flanges which belongs to the tucking unit that is
used to cut off the tucked in selvedge on the picking and receiving side.
 Brakes at receiving side:

The brakes system are present on the receiving side i.e. front, rear and lower brake. The brakes are
used to stop the weft present in projectile at the receiving unit.
 Expeller:
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It ejects the projectile out of the receiving unit into the conveyer in such a way that the projectile
comes to rest between two links of conveyer chain.
 Conveyor belt:
It transports the projectile expelled by the expeller back to picking unit underneath warp. It is
driven by pinion shaft from picking unit.
Procedure:
The projectile which is expelled by the receiving side through conveyer chains to the picking side
is inserted to the projectile lifter. The projectile opener which is operated by the eccentric cam
forces the projectile gripper apart and after this both lifter and opener lifted upward bring projectile
with opened gripper to the level of weft thread held by gripping element of projectile feeder. The
feeder opener forces the gripping element of projectile feeder apart to free the weft yarn.
Simultaneously the projectile opener moves back enabling the projectile gripper to hold the weft
end. As soon as projectile left the lifter, both projectile lifter and projectile opener moves down to
take up next projectile. Soon after the picking takes place the projectile feeder moves inward
toward the edge of fabric where its gripping element are opened up again by inner projectile feeder
opener. The weft that is held by the gripping element on picking side due to the backward
movement of the feeder opener is then cut by the scissors provided at the cloth end and the
projectile feeder moves back to its original position to feed the weft end for the next projectile
brought by the projectile lifter and opener. The same action is repeated on every revolution of
machine.
Observation:
S.No. Timings Primary motion
01. 50º Movement of tensioner arm
02. 68º Gripper projection
03. 100º Un wounding of yarn
04. 193º Return of tensioner to original position
05. 203º Second brake shoe application
06. 233º Maximum shed open

07. 240º Upward movement of tensioner
08. 280º Return of projectile to picking side
09. 305º Cutting action by scissor
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10. 310º-342º Projectile arrived at the receiving unit
27
Practical No. 08
Objective:
To study the drive transmission and picking mechanism of projectile weaving machine.
Drive Transmission Mechanism:

Main motor gives drive to the fly wheel which has shaft called main shaft. The main shaft gives
drive to another shaft which gives drive to the other parts like reed (through slay).
The main shaft transfers power to the auxiliary shaft and then to the cross shaft on the picking
side.
Auxiliary shaft which is then responsible to transfer power to the following:
 Projectile feeder movement

 Expeller
 Opener
 Breaks controlling system
Cross shaft on the picking side gives drive to the following:
 Pinion shaft: give drive to the conveyer belt, projectile lifter and opener.
 Pick finding shaft: it has torsion rod inside
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Figure 1: Drive transmission
PICKING MECHANISM:
 Main parts:
I. Torsion bar:
As shown in figure 2-1, it has splined ends, is secured firmly at the clamping flange with provision
for adjusting the twisting angle. The twisting length of the torsion bar is 721 mm. Its diameter is
15, 17 or 19mm depending upon the model. Larger the diameter higher the initial projectile speed.
The angular twisting of torsion bar at commencement of picking is 28 - 32
II. Picking shaft:

The free end of the torsion bar is linked with the picking shaft through splines.
III. Picking lever:

The picking lever is clamped on the picking shaft.
IV. Picking shoe:

The picking lever carries the picking shoe at its top end.
V. Picking shaft lever:

It is a rigid part of the picking shaft.
VI. Toggle plates:

The toggle plates centered at O carry a roller, and connected to the picking shaft lever through a
link. They are curved at the bottom.
VII. Picking cam:

It is mounted on a shaft J and rotated by bevel wheels once every pick. It rotates in the direction
of the arrow shown in figure. It carries a roller after the nose part.
VIII. Oil brake:

The shock of the picking is taken by the oil brake.
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Figure 2: Major parts of picking mechanism
 Mechanism:
Torsion rod in the twisted important part on this mechanism. The torsion rod is twisted around the
fixed position and the twisting is maximum 30. And the picking mechanism is function of this rod,
it is made by alloy metal. The twisting of tension rod is provided by the side way movement of the
togglelever-4. When cam pushes the antifriction roller the side way movement is performed. The
roller fixed to the cam-2 will prevent the opposite movement. When the rollers just free from the
curved contour then the side way movement of the toggle lever is released and picking is done.
Oil brake prevents the unlimited movement of the picking lever. Picking force depends on the
twisting of torsion rod. Twisting increases with the width of the loom and coarseness of the weft
yarn.
Cam beat-up mechanism or how the weft yarn is release from the projectile guide during beat up:
When projectile runs through the guide unison with weft yarn lay in to the guide. The two
antifriction rollers follow the two cams it means antifriction roller-1 follow the outer profile of
cam-1and antifriction roller-2 so on. The nose of the cam-2 pressed the antifriction roller-2 at left
side direction. At instant the antifriction roller-2 moves downward by the curvature portion of cam.
So the sley right side and as a result the weft yarn releases from the guide by the slot of the guide
and at a time reed beat-up the newly inserted weft to the fell of the cloth. If should be noted that
two cams are used to limit the movement of the sley. Here smooth beat-up is obtained by the rotary
motion of cam and there is no eccentric motion.
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Practical No.9
Objective:
To study the weft insertion mechanism of Rapier weaving machine and to measure timings of
Rapier weaving machine for the primary motions. Draw timing diagrams.
Theory:
Rapier loom is a shuttle less weaving loom in which the filling yarn is carried through the shed of
warp yarns to the other side of the loom by finger like carriers called rapiers. One end of a rapier,
a rod or steel tape, carries the weft yarn. The other end of the rapier is connected to the control
system. The rapier moves across the width of the fabric, carrying the weft yarn across through the
shed to the opposite side. The rapier is then retracted, leaving the new filling in place.
Timings of rapier machine
360o
300o shed closed
90o max shed open

weft yarn insert
cross timing
shed closed
180o
Figure 2
Yarn feeding mechanism: Weft feeder 2 draws the weft yarn off cross-wound package 1
and coils it on the accumulator drum 3 at a preset speed (Figure 2). As soon as sufficiently large
weft yarn supply has been wound on, weft reserve monitor 4 interrupts the coiling process until
the weft yarn has been inserted. The weft yarn is therefore always un-wound from the same drum
diameter at weft insertion and thus maintains a defined weft tension. Brake ring 5 prevents
31
ballooning during drawing-off. Weft yarn is tensioned by electromagnetic weft brake 6.

Monitoring device 7 monitors the pick during a defined insertion period.
Figure 2
Weft Insertion Mechanism: (Figure 3) shows the schematic of weft insertion diagram. In
Phase A, weft finger 1 places the pick in the ready position. Left-hand rapier 2 seizes the pick and
clamps it, and weft cutter 4 cuts it off. In Phase B, the left-hand rapier transfers the pick to right-
hand rapier 3. In Phase C, the right-hand rapier withdraws the pick and releases it. The reed beats
up the inserted pick to the cloth fell.
Driving Mechanism: Main motor drives disc flywheel via three V-belts. The electromagnetic
clutch transmits the torque to the driving gear wheel and the main shaft. The weaving machine or
the shedding mechanism is slowly turned forward and backward by creep speed motor. The disc
fly wheel increases the moving mass and contributes to the smooth-running weaving machine.
32
Figure 3
Observation:
Degrees Primary motions
0 Rapier fingers are at back position.
90 Maximum shed opening.
180 Weft transfer through the shed.
300 Cross timing of the shed.
360 Shed closed
Result:
Timings of rapier machine are carried out to study the weft insertion mechanism of rapier weaving
machine.
33
Practical No. 10
Objective:
To study the fundamental warp knitting stitches on knitting board
Apparatus:
Knitting Board, Rope for making loops
Theory:
Warp knitting is the process of making a fabric in which the loops form in a vertical or warp wi
se direction; the yarn is prepared as warp on beams with one or more yarns for each needle. The f
abric has a flatter, closer, less elastic knit than weft knit and is very often run resistant.
Stitch:
The stitch is the smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics. It consists of a yarn loop
, which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops. There are three b
asic knitted stitches: KNIT, TUCK and MISS (float or non-knit) which form the starting point for
the entire range of weft knitted structure.
Wale and Course:
The series of loops that intermesh in a vertical direction are known as 'Wale'.
The loops that are inter-connected widthwise are known as 'Course'. (One traverse is equal to two
courses.)
The pillar stitch:
In the pillar or chain stitch, the same guide always overlaps the same needle. This lapping move
ment will produce chains of loops in unconnected wales, which must be connected together by th
e underlaps of a second guide bar. Generally, pillar stitches are made by front guide bars, either t
o produce vertical stripe effects or to hold the inlays of other guide bars into the structure.
Open-lap pillar stitches are commonly used in warp knitting. They can be unroved from the end
knitted last
34
Figure 1: Open lap pillar stitch
Closed-lap pillar stitches are employed on crochet machines because the lapping movement is s
imple to achieve and is necessary when using self-closing carbine needles, which must always be
fed with yarn from the same side
Figure 2: Closed lap pillar stitch
The Tricot stitch
Tricot lapping or 1 x 1 is the simplest of these movements, producing overlaps in alternate wales
at alternate courses with only one yarn crossing between adjacent wales. Two yarns will cross bet
ween wales with a 2x1 or cord lap, three yarns with a 3x1 or satin lap, four yarns with a 4x1 or ve
lvet lap, etc.
35
1×1 Tricot stitch (Open) is very light and elastic. It can be stretched in all directions and is only
used for fabrics that do not require high degree of stability.
Figure 3: 1x1 Tricot stitch ( open)
1×1 Tricot stitch (open) is also very light, inconsistent in shape and easily stretched and distorte
d
Figure 4: 1x1 Tricot stitch ( closed)
Knitting Board: Knitting board is made of wooden base with the screws mounted on it at a speci
fied distance to represent the needles of warp knitting machines. These screws help to make the n
eat and clean loop structure.
No of knitting boards are available in the Fabric Manufacturing Lab. Various kind of fundamenta
l weft and warp knitted structures could be made on it with relative ease.
36
Result:
The pillar stitch open and closed and tricot stitch 1×1 open and closed were formed on knitting b
oard. The stitches were formed in a way that the technical back side of the stitches was on the fro
nt of the board. In warp knitting fabrics, underlaps are on the front of the technical back of structu
re therefore the limbs of the loops were on the back side.
Figure 5: 1x1 Tricot stitch (closed)
37
Figure 6: Pillar stitch (open)
Figure 7: Pillar stitch (closed)
38
Practical No. 11
Objective:
To study the towel manufacturing on Terry weaving machine. Calculate pile height, pile ratio and
pile yarn consumption of the terry samples provided.
Introduction:
Terry is described as a textile product which is made with loop pile on one or both sides generally
covering the entire surface or forming strips, checks, or other patterns (with end hems or fringes
and side hems or selvages).
Pile formation through Terry Motion:

In terry fabric manufacturing two sheets of warp threads run simultaneously of which one is kept
under normal tension and other is kept under loose tension. The threads normal tension warp sheet
are ground and threads of loose tension warp sheet are for pile the sequence of operation during
weaving for pile formation in 3- picking is given below
• Insertion of first pick as per the design with loose beating
• Allow a predetermined gap near the fell of the cloth
• Insertion of second pick following the first pick is loose beating
• Insertion of third pick with heavy beating and brings all the three pick to the fell of the cloth.
The production of terry fabrics is a complex process and is only possible on specially equipped
weaving machines. Three yarn systems are woven in the terry loom compared to the two system
types of traditional weaving: Ground warp, pile warp and weft. The two warps are processed
simultaneously: the ground warp, with tightly tensioned ends and the pile warp with lightly
tensioned ends. A special weaving method enables loops to be handled with the lightly tensioned
warp ends on the surface. Ground warps and pile warps are unwound separately, warped onto two
different section beams and sized separately.
39
Equipment:
Air-jet Terry weaving machine Figure 1.
Figure 5
Steps of Terry Weaving:

The components of an air- jet terry weaving machine are seen in Figure 1. The pile warp ends are
let off from the pile warp beam (2), guided through the measuring unit (3), then join with ground
warp ends which are let off from ground warp beam (1) and guided through the whip roll. Next,
the two warp systems are threaded through the drop wires, the headles, reed and with the control
of cloth take up (6) are wound onto cloth roll after weaving(7). Positive controlled whip roll for
ground warp (5) determines the length of ground warp to be let off, while terry motion (4) assures
integration among pile and ground warp let off and cloth take up.
Pile Ratio
Lengths of pile warp per unit length of fabric in warp direction. As the ratio increases, the weight
and thickness of the towel increases.
Pile Height
Height of the pile yarn loop formed at the surface of the terry product.
40
Observations:
 Given specimens are ______ pick terry.
Pile yarn
Specimen Pile ratio Pile height
consumption
Results
41
Practical No. 12
Objective:
To study different types of selvedges formation mechanisms.
Selvedge:
An edge produced on woven fabric during manufacturing that prevents it from untangle.
It serves the following purposes:
1. To bind at least one of the extreme ends with the weft for preventing fraying of the cloth.
2. To provide extra strength in the edge’s where the cloth is held by clips in the subsequent
finishing process.
3. To provide end capable of withstanding of greater abrasion by the reed occurring at the edges
of the warp.
4. To provide space for ornamentation as in saree or dhoti identification.
Types Of Selvedges Mechanisms:
According to the interlacing or the type of loom these are classified into two types namely
1. Conventional selvedge
2. Unconventional selvedge
Conventional selvedge
It is formed because the shuttle contains enough weft for several picks, and picking motion is
arranged in both the side of the loom.
Unconventional selvedge
It is employed in the conventional loom like rapier, air jet, projectile weaving, as the picking
42
mechanism is arranged only at one side of the loom .
Four kinds of selvedges can be formed:

 Tucked-in selvedges
 Chain stitch selvedge
 Leno selvedges
 Fused selvedges
Tucked In Selvedge:
A device is used to tuck and hold the cut ends into the fabric edge. In tucked-in selvedge, the
fringed edges of the weft yarns are woven back into the body of the fabric using a special tuck-in
mechanism. As a result, the weft density is doubled in the selvedge area. The tucked-in selvedge
is form on projectile weaving machines.
Tucked in selvedge
Chain stitch selvedge:
These type of selvedge are mostly produced in shuttle less narrow fabric weaving mechanism in
which the picking takes place by means of needle.
43
Chain stitch selvedge
Leno selvedge:
These selvedge are obtained by binding the weft with strong additional threads working in gauze
weave and by eliminating through cutting the protruding weft ends.Half cross leno weave fabrics
have excellent shear resistance. They are made with special leno weaving harnesses. The leno
selvedge is formed on projectile loom.
Leno selvedge
Fused selvedge:
These are obtained by pressing a hot mechanical elements on the fabric edge. Some times used to
split the wider fabrics into narrow fabrics.
44
Practical No. 13
Objective:
To study the fabric manufacturing By Knit Braider machine.
Description:
Combining latch needle knitting with reciprocating yarn feeds, Knit Braiders offer the utmost in
versatility to produce single or multi-color cords (with or without core), flat and tubular flat laces
and trims that resemble braided materials. Because yarn packages are stationary, costly yarn
respooling (bobbin winding) is eliminated and production speeds are increased. The knit braiders
is used for knit braiding shoelaces, soft and hard drawstrings, cords and ropes and gasketing
materials up to 1/2″ round and 3/4″ flat width.
Working Principle:
The traditional circular braiding machine contains a series of bobbins of yarn mounted on a moving
track at the bottom of the machine.The braid is produced as the bobbins move in and out around
the base of the machine, much as maypole dancer do. Interweaving yarns by weaving by braiding
produces a flexible fabric; the fabric can be stretched in one direction, but it contracts in the other.
Needle System:
Latch needles on single cylinder and single feed system with two stitch repeat sequence.
Cylinder Sizes:
Working diameters from .18″ to .57″ [5 to 14 mm]. Needle gauges from 5 to 15 needles per inch.
Operating Speeds:
800 to 1000 cpm {dependent on needle gauge of machine}.
Applications:
Solid or multi-color tubular knits for use as shoestrings and laces, decorative cords, drawstrings,
bag handles, trimmings, ropes, all with or without cores, elastic or rigid cords, and gasketing
materials. Produces tubular flat and flat materials used as athletic shoelaces and trims.
45
Options:
Roll-up attachments, stop-motions, elastic power feed, and counters.
46
Practical No 14
Objective:
To study fabric defects and identify defects on the provide fabric samples.
Theory:
Fabric defect is an undesirable fault in the fabric which deteriorates the quality of fabric and makes
it inferior.
A number of faults occur in fabric during weaving process. They are caused due to several reasons.
1. Warp way defect.

2. Weft way defect.
3. Fabric faults common to both warp and weft.
Major Defects Found In Woven Fabric:

Various types of faults found in woven fabric has mentioned below:
1. Broken ends or warp
A defect in the woven is fabric caused by a warp yarn that was broken during weaving or finishing.
2. Broken picks or weft
A filling yarn that is broken during the weaving of fabric.
3. Loose warp
This type of fault is produced in woven fabric when the tension of warp yarn is slow.
4. Loose weft or snarl
It is produced in woven fabric due to the looseness of filling yarn.
47
5. Double ends
This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric when the two ends of warp sticks get together after
sizing.
6. Tight ends
If the tension of warp yarn is more than the other ends present in the loom then this type of fault
is produced in woven fabric.
7. Float of warp
If someone pulls the fabric together the cloth roller intentionally or unintentionally then this kind
of defect is produced in woven fabric.
8. Wrong end color
It is produced in woven fabric due to wrong drawing of colored yarn.
9. Miss pick
This kind of defect is produced in woven fabric when operator starts a stopped machine without
picking the broken weft from the shade.
10. Double pick
It is produced in woven fabric when the cutter doesn’t work properly.
11. Weft bar
When count of yarn varies from one cone to another cone then a bar of weft will be appeared in
fabric after weaving.
12. Ball
If the warp is too much hairy then the reed will create ball in warp yarn in between reed and heald
shaft. If the ball is small enough to pass through the dent of reed then those will form the ball in
fabric.
13. Hole
A fabric’s imperfection in which one or several yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an
opening.
48
14. Tails out
This kind of fault is produced in woven fabric if the cutter doesn’t work properly.
15. Temple mark
If the placement of ring in the temple bar is wrong or the pressure of temple to the fabrics is too
high then this type of fault is produced.
16. Reed mark
In woven fabrics, a crack between the groups of warp ends either continuous or at intervals. It is
may be caused by the wrong drawing-in of the warp or damage to the reed wires.
17. Slub
If the yarn contains unexpected slub in it then it will be appeared in the fabric as a fault.
18. Thick and thin places
The fabric defect in which fabric count varies more than a specified percentage from the intended
count. If the thick or thin place is more than one inch (2.54cm) wide then it is considered as a
major defect in fabric grading.
A segment of yarn at least ¼ inch (0.6 cm) long that is noticibly thicker than adjacent portions of
yarn is called thick place.
A segment of yarn at least 25% smaller in diameter than adjacent portions of yarn is called thin
place.
19. Oil spot or stain
Discoloration on a local area of a substrate that may be resistant to remove by laundering or dry
cleaning. It occurs during spinning, weaving or finishing. It is aso often seen in the woven fabric.
It is also produced in woven fabric if too much oiling has done on the loom parts.
20. Bad or defective selvedge
Bad selvedge in woven fabric is due to the faulty weaving. Here, warp ends being set too far apart
for the thickness of the yarn or in finished fabric.
49
Observations
It is observed that the considered fabric sample in the lab has following faults.
1. Broken ends or warp

2. Broken picks or weft
3. Loose warp
4. Loose weft or snarl
5. Double end
6. Tight end
7. Float of warp
8. Wrong end color
9. Miss pick
10. Double pick
11. Weft bar
12. Ball
13. Hole
14. Tails out
15. Temple mark
16. Reed mark
17. Slub
18. Thick and thin place
19. Oil spot or stain
20. Defective selvedge
1. Broken ends 2. Broken picks
50
3. Loose warp 4. Loose weft
5. Double ends 6. Tight ends
51
7. Float of warp 8. Wrong end color
9. Miss pick 10. Double picks
52
11. Weft bar 12. Ball
13. Hole 14. Tails out
53
15. Temple mark 16. Reed mark
17. Slub 18. Thick place
54
19. Oil spot or stain 20. Defective selvedge
Results:
Different faults in the fabric reduce the fabric quality and gives bad appearance.
55

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NED UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY

DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING

ADVANCED FABRIC MANUFACTURING MECHANISMS

S. Date Practical Titles Remarks

4 To study Jacquard shedding mechanism and

5 To determine repeat/design of the Jacquard

9 To study the weft insertion mechanism of Rapier

11 To study towel manufacturing on Terry weaving

12 To study different types of selvedge formation

Figure 1: Cam Shedding

Driving of shedding tappet:

They are of two main types:

Figure 2: Geometry of shed

CALCULATION OF WARP STRAIN DURING SHEDDING:

Figure 3: Warp strain during shedding

Let us consider h as half of the shed height. Therefore, H = 2h

i. Positive Shedding: Cam is used to lifting as well as lowering of harness frames.

Geometry Of The Shed:

DEGREES OF MAIN TAKER DISTANCE (cm)

L24 = (L34 – H)1/2

L24 = (40- 7.4) 1/2

Total length = 3.255 + 5.709

Total length = 8.964 cm

Warp Tension (T) = (W x L) / (2 H)

T = (100 N x 8.964 cm) / (2 x 14.8 cm)

Classification Of Dobby:Dobby shedding classify in a number of ways.

Figure 1 Negative dobby shedding

Advantages of Negative Dobby:

Disadvantages of Negative Dobby:

Figure 2 Negative dobby shedding

For Flat Fabrics And Terry Cloth:

An Extensive Range Of Use:

Selecting Hooks in a Module:

Low Shed Position

Upper Shed Position

Blowbar Blowing System

Blow bar blowing system

Primary motions of the weaving machine:

Importance of timings in weaving fabrics:

Measuring the loom timings:

Shed opens & pick insertion starts

270 290 Cross shed

 Projectile feeder opener:

 Brakes at receiving side:

05. 203º Second brake shoe application

06. 233º Maximum shed open

08. 280º Return of projectile to picking side

09. 305º Cutting action by scissor

10. 310º-342º Projectile arrived at the receiving unit

Drive Transmission Mechanism:

 Projectile feeder movement

Figure 1: Drive transmission

II. Picking shaft:

III. Picking lever:

IV. Picking shoe:

V. Picking shaft lever:

VI. Toggle plates:

VII. Picking cam: