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    H, P, T, P B: Hain Aking

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    Yusuf Khan
    The document provides an overview of the history and process of chain making. It discusses how chains have traditionally been made by hand through laborious processes of hammering, drawing, and soldering metal links. The development of chain making machines beginning in the late 18th century allowed for mass production of chains. The document outlines the processes used in common machine types like cable and curb machines. It also discusses challenges in working with harder metals like platinum and the need for hand fabrication of some chains.

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    H, P, T, P B: Hain Aking

    Uploaded by

    Yusuf Khan
    144 views6 pages
    The document provides an overview of the history and process of chain making. It discusses how chains have traditionally been made by hand through laborious processes of hammering, drawing, and soldering metal links. The development of chain making machines beginning in the late 18th century allowed for mass production of chains. The document outlines the processes used in common machine types like cable and curb machines. It also discusses challenges in working with harder metals like platinum and the need for hand fabrication of some chains.

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    Chain Making

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    The document provides an overview of the history and process of chain making. It discusses how chains have traditionally been made by hand through laborious processes of hammering, drawing, and soldering metal links. The development of chain making machines beginning in the late 18th century allowed for mass production of chains. The document outlines the processes used in common machine types like cable and curb machines. It also discusses challenges in working with harder metals like platinum and the need for hand fabrication of some chains.

    Copyright:

    Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
    Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as docx, pdf, or txt
    144 views6 pages

    H, P, T, P B: Hain Aking

    Uploaded by

    Yusuf Khan
    The document provides an overview of the history and process of chain making. It discusses how chains have traditionally been made by hand through laborious processes of hammering, drawing, and soldering metal links. The development of chain making machines beginning in the late 18th century allowed for mass production of chains. The document outlines the processes used in common machine types like cable and curb machines. It also discusses challenges in working with harder metals like platinum and the need for hand fabrication of some chains.

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    Yusuf Motiwala- PGJM 15 th November

    CHAIN MAKING – HISTORY, PROCESS, TYPES, PROBLEMS


    AND BENEFITS

    The definition of chain is as simple as interlocking links of metal. If the metal happens to be
    precious metal, then we consider the chain jewelry. Gold jewelry chains are now largely made
    by machine. The traditional handmade process for chains is long and laborious, often not
    considered cost effective in an industrial setting. Although some craftsmen still enjoy the original
    process, most jewelry makers purchase or make machine-crafted gold chains.

    History of Chain Making


    As with all jewelry, chain making is not a
    simple process. It too involves a number of
    stages and it's a long way from the raw
    material to the final finished product.
    Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths
    to craft chains from gold and its alloys.
    Neolithic men found gold very pliant, soft
    and supple and they hammered and
    pounded it to take any form and shape and
    also stretch its length. Perhaps this was the
    birth of chain and chain making. Till the 18th
    century chain was handcrafted, laborious
    and time consuming. It still is. By twisting
    and turning the wire different shapes are
    formed and linking one link with the other
    forms the most basic chain. Romans and
    Persians were adept at chain making. They
    used chains on bridles of horses, on vests for protection in war, on doors, in anchors and
    jewelry; chain making was a well practiced art. The wires were made into loops and connected
    to each other to form chains which were used to especially on armor. The loops were sown on
    vests worn by soldiers. Chains constructed in this fashion with interlocking links are called chain
    maille /mail or chain armor. This was the common term used in the medieval times to indicate
    flat chains.

    Before machines took over, goldsmiths used to hand make most chains. They would hammer
    the metal, gold or silver into flat strips. Then they would draw or pull these strips of metal
    through a number of dies to form wires. The wire which was reduced to the diameter or
    thickness required. The wire was then wound around a mandrel forming loops. Mandrel is used
    to shape metal into a desired size or shape by using a tiny hammer. Then it was cut through the
    looped wire. Then they would interlock the loops; bend each link to close it.
    Then use heat to solder each joint. And this process was continued till the desired length is
    completed.

    Such chains and many even today, are handcrafted. Hand fabrication is indispensable in any
    form of jewelry making. Delicate touches, mounting difficult settings or attaching beads need
    skilled fingers. Therefore hand crafting cannot be totally discontinued. However demand
    requires mass production. Mechanization was the obvious answer and this led Jacques de
    Vaucanson, a French man in 1750, to invent a machine which made U shaped wire for mesh
    chain. This progressed into a chain making machine in 1782. Pedaling generated power and this
    machine was highly sought by goldsmiths and craftsmen. By the 1800's different types of chain
    making machines were designed, all based on this basic model. In 1870, this method of chain
    making caught the eyes of Europeans and Americans. In 1893 in Chicago World Exposition,
    Americans for the first time exhibited their model of chain making machine which was
    decidedly better. It was based on better technology, possessed speed and was sophisticated.
    During the sixties Italians became and still remain masters of chain making and chain making
    machines.

    Types of chains
    Variety of designs run riot in the fashion world of
    chains. Broad, thin, light, heavy, ornamental,
    simple, intricate, Princess or Rope, flat or
    cylindrical, lots of styles and motifs abound. Here
    are some contemporary styles:

    Box chain: - a chain with box like wide squares.


    Byzantine chain: -a type of weave which is an old
    world style and is a chain with round links which
    create an intricate design that forms a tube. This
    design is also called birdcage design, idiot box and
    fool's dilemma.
    Cable chain: - a chain with round links all of the
    same size.
    Curb chain: - a chain with oval links that are
    twisted to lie flat.
    Figaro chain: - a pretty popular design that has two
    or three small round links with and long oval link.
    This is a famous Italian design.
    Herringbone chain: - a chain with resembles fish
    bones being thin, small and slanting links that lie
    flat. Also resembles a centipede.
    Fob chain: - a thick chain with an ornamental pendant or seal or charm attached to it.
    Mesh: - thin, delicate, gauzy looking mesh woven from very fine wire, resembling a fabric, like
    chain.
    Omega: - a chain that lies flat and is solid and heavy and the surface made up of thick links.
    Multilayered chain: - a number of thin delicate, soft and pliant chains all strung from two clasps
    form a thick layered look.

    These are some of the common styles of chains available and in no way does this write up sum
    up the gamut of designs available internationally.

    Chain making machines


    There are two main types of chain making machines. The cable machine and the curb chain
    making machine.

    Cable machine Process

    The first step is to feed/introduce wire into a set of straightening rollers.  It then passes into a
    guide and a gripper section.

    This chamber guides it into a chamber called 'stop'. In this section the wire length is measured
    and the size of the link established. This is the first link of the chain. The next pierce of wire is
    measured and is passed through this first link to form a part of the chain. In this way links are
    measured and made and interlocked.  A cutter cuts the wire from the feed stock a forming tooth
    slides out and pushes on the wire to shape it into a U. After the U is formed, a set of jaw like
    clamps holds the wire in place and closes the link to complete the shape. The link is given a
    complete 90 degrees turnabout and the next link making process starts.

    Curb Making Machine


    At first the wire is introduced into a loop like tool. Ii is twisted and coiled into a spiral. As the
    loop revolves the spiral wire is put through the previous loop.
    The loop is closed and a set of jaw like scissors snap and cuts off the spiral. This link is rotated
    and the next spiral is made and this process continues till the desired length is acquired.

    Snake Chain Making Machine


    This machine makes chains from flat stock.

    Ball Chain Making Machine


    This machine is capable of making ball chains from both wire and flat stock.

    Firago Chain Machine


    This machine is able to make two sizes of link since it has two heads.

    Platinum Chain making


    Platinum chain making was not easy since it is a hard metal which is not easy to work with. For
    many years only pliant metals like gold, silver, copper were made into chains. To full fill the
    need for white metal was filled with white gold, rhodium plating or silver. During the nineties,
    the demand for high end products like platinum was greatly desired and hence manufacturers
    started finding ways to make platinum chains. Some started plating the wire with copper to
    make it greasy and slippery as it passed through the machine. This was done so as not to hurt
    the tools. After this the copper was laboriously stripped off the wire. It was time consuming and
    not very profitable. So some manufacturers started chrome plating their tooling system. Today,
    improved grades of carbide has eased the problems not cured it completely. Soldering the links
    is another problem. Heat damages the color and matching the color is difficult. It also gets
    tarnished. A number of methods were used to resolve the problem. The coming of the laser
    welding machine is a boon. It is a clean weld as it is suited for the thermal grade of the
    platinum.
    Some chains are hand made. Glass beads, plastic and resin beads are strung by hand. Pearls are
    also (mostly) hand strung. Bead made from organic material like wood, shell, bones, clay even
    fake ivory are also hand fabricated. Some chains made from gold are also hand fabricated.
    Problems encountered
     Though machines do the elementary work the finished product has to be hand done.

     The finished product is the result of skilled fingers and toiling hands as they decorate, set
    and polish the chain to its final finished stage. Heat and soldering required for completing
    the final product.

     Some chain designs like herring bone require a flattened profile and this has to be done
    by rolling the chain on a rolling mill.

     Secondary operations are needed to make the chain loose and flexible in order to sit
    properly around the neck.

     Decorations like diamond cut are added by using a special machine.

     Tools will wear and tear.

     Machines are expensive to maintain in tip top condition.

     Some parts might not be easily available, especially if it's of an older machine.

     It turns out to be expensive unless used for mass production.

    Benefits of Chain making Machines


     Chains can be massed produced. Variety of designs can be made.

     Complex chains can be made from stamped components which are bent and then
    interlocked.

     It allows the making of thin and light hollow chains.

     Chains can be made in all karats of gold.

     It saves time as a number of chains can be made quickly and accurately.

     It is labor and cost effective.


     In up to date modern machines, which are very expensive, links are automatically welded
    by laser or micro plasma welding torch.

     Wires can be round, oval or square and can be used in machines with ease.

    Thank you.

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