Hen & Chicks Amigurumi

Tori and twins Tama-Go

Contributed by: Lee Mei Li of AmiguruMEI
Skill level: Easy
Duration: About 4 hours
Description: This is the busiest year yet for Mama Tori, who has just given brith to twins Tama and
Go. Both boys love hanging around Mama all day, which isn’t really a bad thing, except for the fact
that they also get into all sorts of trouble, and by that we mean all sorts! Still, Mama Tori is having
the best fun she’s ever had, and is promptly aware that she should be cuddling her babies as much as
she can before they grow up all too quickly!
Abbreviations
• Ch: chain
• Sc: single crochet
• Dc: double crochet
• Inv dec: invisible decrease
• Ss: slip stitch
Materials & Tools
• 2.3mm hook
• 2.5mm hook
• 4mm hook
• Acrylic yarn in white , red, yellow, pink, orange and twig-brown
• Black embroidery floss/crochet thread
• Darning needle
• Polyester fiberfill
• Scissors
• Pins
Tori the mother hen
Body
Tori’s body is worked up faster by using two strands from two different balls of yarn.
With white yarn (from two different balls of yarn) and 4mm hook:
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring {6}
Round 2: [Inc] around {12}
Round 3: [Inc, sc 1] around {18}
Round 4: [Inc, sc 2] around {24}
Round 5: [Inc, sc 3] around {30}
Round 6: [Inc, sc 4] around {36}
Round 7 – 12 (6 rounds altogether): Sc around {36}
Round 13: [Inv dec, sc 4] around {30}
Round 14: [Inv dec, sc 3] around {24}
Round 15: [Inv dec, sc 2] around {18}
Fill with stuffing
Round 16: [Inv dec, sc 1] around {12}
Round 17: [Inv dec] around {6}
Fasten off. Leave a long strand for making eye indentations.
Beak
With yellow yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring {5}
Round 2: [Inc] around {10}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Flatten piece to resemble a triangle.
Wattle
With red yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Ch 2. Sc 1.
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Comb
With red yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Surface crochet in a straight line onto the top-centre of Tori’s body.
Row 1: Sc 1, ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Wings (Make 2)
With white yarn (from two different balls of yarn) and 4mm hook:
Round 1: Sc 3 in magic ring {3}
Round 2: [Inc] around {6}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Blushing Cheeks (Make 2)
With pink yarn and 2.3mm yarn:
Round 1: Sc 5 in magic ring {5}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Eye indentations
1. Take the remaining strand from the body and thread it through a darning needle. Bring it up to a
spot to the left side of the body, ideally below Round 7.
2. Make a horizontal backstitch and bring the yarn back down to the bottom of the body.
3. Gently tug to create an indentation. Repeat on the other side. The indentations should be about 5
stitches away from one another.
4. Bring yarn to the bottom of the head, knot it and trim excess.
Assembly
1. Sew beak between the eye indentations on the body.
2. Sew the wattle on below the beak.
3. Sew on the eyes with black embroidery floss. I used black crochet thread for Tori. Just make
vertical backstitches back and forth between two stitches till the eyes are thick enough for your
liking. I made about 8 backstitches for each eye.
4. Sew on the blushing cheeks.
5. Surface crochet the comb onto the top part of Tori’s body (if you haven’t done it already).
6. Sew on the wings.
7. Tori’s cute little feet can be replicated by sewing on a downwards-pointing arrow with
backstitches using twig-brown yarn.
Baby chicks Tama & Go
Body
With yellow yarn 2.5mm hook:
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring {6}
Round 2: [Inc] around {12}
Round 3: [Inc, sc 1] around {18}
Round 4: [Inc, sc 2] around {24}
Round 5: [Inc, sc 3] around {30}
Round 6: [Inc, sc 4] around {36}
Round 7 – 12 (6 rounds altogether): Sc around {36}
Round 13: [Inv dec, sc 4] around {30}
Round 14: [Inv dec, sc 3] around {24}
Round 15: [Inv dec, sc 2] around {18}
Fill with stuffing
Round 16: [Inv dec, sc 1] around {12}
Round 17: [Inv dec] around {6}
Fasten off. Leave a long strand for making eye indentations.
Beak
With orange yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Round 1:Sc 5 in magic ring {5}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Feathery head
With yellow yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Surface crochet in a straight line onto the top-center of Tama or Go’s body.
Row 1: Sc 1, ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Row 3: Ch 3, sc 2, ss into next sc.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Wings (Make 2)
With yellow yarn and 2.5mm hook:
Round 1: Sc 3 in magic ring {3}
Round 2: [Inc] around {6}
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Eye indentations

Made the same way as Mama Tori’s eye indentations

Assembly
1. Assemble as per the instructions for Mama Tori.
2. For a hint of blush on the cheeks, make several backstitches with pink yarn.
Using double strands of yarn will work up your amigurumi piece in half the time.
More Details on how to crochet the Hen & Chicks Amigurumi

Using double strands of yarn will work up your

amigurumi piece in half the time.

Oval eyes will give your amigurumi a super-kawaii

look. Just make vertical backstitches back and forth between two stitches till the eyes are thick
enough for your liking. I like using sturdy crochet thread for this instead of embroidery floss.
 Surface crochet is a great technique to use when
adding on small and flimsy crochet pieces onto a larger body. Tori’s comb is made using chains,
single crochets, and slip-stitches directly onto the top-center of her body.

The secret to dainty feet is using embroidery, which

we have done with Tori’s feet. Just make simple backstitches to resemble tiny claws.
 Different pairings of hook and yarn sizes yield
different results. Baby chicks Tama and Go are made using essentially the same pattern as Mama
Tori, but with thinner yarn and a smaller hook size.
 Crochet Bunny Pendant
Crochet Pattern
Size (Bunny Only): Mommy 4.5″ x 2.75″, Daughter 2.75″ x 1.75″
Skill level: Easy
Abbreviations:
ch = chain
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Inc = Increment stitch or 2sc
Inv Dec = Invisible Decrement stitch or 2sctog
Rnd = Round
sc = single crochet
slst = slip stitch
st = stitch
Materials & Tools:
1. Crochet raffia yarns, Raffia With Passion, Color: Ivory (as the body), Strawberry (as the bow)
and Kraft (as the nose)
2. Crochet hook 2.5mm
3. Stitch marker
4. Tapestry needle
5. Keychain
6. Tassel with a jump-ring (optional)
7. Small jingle bell with a jump-ring (optional)
8. Warm iron
Crochet Pattern
in American crochet terms
This pattern begins from the ears and works toward the head

Mommy Crochet Bunny

With Ivory Yarn

Ear
Ear 1
Rnd 1: 3sc in magic ring {3}
Rnd 2: Inc around {6}
Rnd 3: (sc, Inc) around {9}
Rnd 4: (Inc, sc 2) around {12}
Rnd 5 to Rnd 8: sc around {12}
Rnd 9: sc around, slst to the first stitch on this round {12}
Fasten
Ear 2
Rnd 1 to Rnd 8: Repeat Rnd 1 to Rnd 8 of Ear 1
Rnd 9: sc around {12}
continue next to include Ear 1 to make the face
Face
Rnd 10: (Inv Dec, sc 2, Inv Dec, sc) at Ear 2, (sc, Inv Dec, sc 2, Inv Dec, sc 2, Inv Dec, sc) at Ear 1,
(sc, Inv Dec, sc 2) at Ear 2 {18}
Rnd 11: sc around {18}
Rnd 12: sc 2, (Inc, sc 5) 2 times, Inc, sc 3 {21}
Rnd 13: (Inc, sc 6) 3 times {24}
Rnd 14: sc3, (Inc, sc 7) 2 times, Inc, sc 4 {27}
Rnd 15: (Inc, sc 8) 3 times {30}
Rnd 16 to Rnd 21: sc around {30}
Rnd 22: (Inv Dec, sc 8) around {27}
Rnd 23: sc 4, (Inv Dec, sc 7) 2 times, Inv Dec, sc 3 {24}
Rnd 24: (Inv Dec, sc 2) around {18}
Rnd 25: (sc, Inv Dec) around {12}
Rnd 26: Inv Dec around {6}
Fasten
Leave a long yarn tail for sewing

Daughter Crochet Bunny

With Ivory Yarn

Ear
Ear 1
Rnd 1: 3sc in magic ring {3}
Rnd 2: Inc around {6}
Rnd 3: (sc, Inc) around {9}
Rnd 4 to Rnd 5: sc around {9}
Rnd 6: sc around, slst to the first stitch on this round {9}
Fasten
Ear 2
Rnd 1 to Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 1 to Rnd 5 of Ear 1
Rnd 6: sc around {12}
continue next to include Ear 1 to make the face
Face
Rnd 7: (sc, Inv Dec, sc) at Ear 2, (Inv Dec, sc) 3 times at Ear 1, (Inv Dec, sc, Inv Dec) at Ear 2 {12}
Rnd 8: sc around {18}
Rnd 9: sc, (Inc, sc 3) 2 times, Inc, sc 2 {15}
Rnd 10: (Inc, sc 4) 3 times {18}
Rnd 11: sc 2, (Inc, sc 5) 2 times, Inc, sc 3 {21}
Rnd 12 to Rnd 14: sc around {21}
Rnd 15: (Inv Dec, sc 5) around {18}
Rnd 16: (sc, Inv Dec) around {12}
Rnd 17: Inv Dec around {6}
Fasten
Leave a long yarn tail for sewing

Crochet Pink Bow

With Strawberry Yarn

Ch 7, Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sc, slst, sc, Hdc, ch, slst into the same last st. Fasten. Leave a long
yarn tail for sewing
 How to Crochet a Mouse
This pattern uses basic stitches

st = stitch

sc = single crochet

2tog = 2 stitches together

sl st = slip stitch

f/o = finish off

Eyes, Nose:

I order all my safety eyes from Lisa & Ed's Eyes and More. Great prices and s/h cost are the best I've found

online. I do not receive any money or reward for directing anyone to their site. I just like them :) I glued

4.5mm eyes in after the ears were sewed in place, I find that easier. But if you want to use the washers of the

safety eyes then make sure to put them in before closing up the head. You don't need to use safety eyes you

could also paint them on. Use a pointed object like a pencil or a pin to dot the eyes in and once the paint is dry

dot on another coat and repeat until you are happy with the look. Once done and paint is dry clip any stray

strands away. You could also use felt, buttons, beads or yarn. I have a tutorial that shows how to install buttons

after the doll has been closed up and this method would also work if you use beads.

Whip stitch in a nose with thread or embroidery thread or yarn. I also think they are just as cute without a face

but the choice is yours and there's many things you could do with the face.

Bring one thread tail up from under the head and leave the other thread tail hanging where you went in. Whip

stitch the nose in. Once done then bring both thread tails out a stitch hole away from the face, knot the tails off

and hide them inside the body. View the video for tips on sewing in the nose.

Mouse: with color of your choice

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

5-6) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

7) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (18)

8-9) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

10) 1sc in next 7st then 2tog (16)

11) 1sc in next 6st then 2tog (14)

12) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (12)

start stuffing the body. Stuff it firm, pushing the stuffing into the sides near the back end to give the body a

more triangular shape. View video for tips on stuffing.

13) 1sc the 2tog (8)

stuff more as needed. Make sure you are going to be happy with how the head looks before finishing off this

row.

14) 2tog twice then f/o leaving a long tail for sewing, you will also be using this yarn tail to crochet a chain for

the tail. Using a yarn needle, neatly weave in and out of the remaining stitches, pull tight to close the gap and

neatly knot off then pull the yarn tail inside the body and right out the back through the magic circle you

started the body with

Chain any length you want the tail then f/o and weave the yarn tail in and out along the chain and knot it off

once you reach the body. Hide the remaining yarn tail inside the body

Ears:

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

2) ch1 and turn, 1sc in each

f/o and leave long tail for sewing. Sew the ears in between the 10th and 11th row. Pin them in place before

sewing them in. When all done, bring the yarn tails out through one hole in the body, knot off then hide inside

the body.
 HEART STITCH
MATERIALS
Willow & Lark Ramble Yarn (137yds/50g)
— Snowdrop/101; Colour A
— Rhubarb Pink/127; Colour B
3.75mm (F/5) Crochet Hook
STITCHES & ABBREVIATIONS
st(s) – stitch(es)
ch – chain stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
cl – cluster stitch
FOUNDATION
Chain in multiples of 6 + 3, in A.
PATTERN
Row 1: Skip 3 ch (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in 4th ch from hook. 1 dc in every
ch. Turn your work.
Row 2: Ch1, 1 sc in same st. 1 sc in every st. Turn your work.
Row 3: Change to colour B. Ch2 (counts as 1st dc of 1st cl), 1 cl in same st.
*Ch2, skip 5 sts, (1 cl, ch2, 1 cl) in next st. Repeat from the * all across. Ch2,
skip 5 sts, 1 cl in next st. Turn your work.
Row 4: Change to colour A. Ch1, 1 sc in same st. Ch1, *1 hdc in the 2nd, 3rd
and 4th skipped sts from the previous row, working around the ‘ch2’. Ch2,
skip next cl, 1 sc in next ‘ch2’ space, ch2, skip next cl. Repeat from the * all
across. 1 hdc in the 2nd, 3rd and 4th skipped sts from the previous row,
working around the ‘ch2’. Ch1, 1 sc in next cl. Turn your work.
Row 5: Ch2 (counts as 1st dc), 1 dc in next ‘ch1’ space. *1 dc in next 3 sts. 1
dc in next ‘ch2’ space, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in next ‘ch2’ space. Repeat from
the * all across. 1 dc in next 3 sts. 1 dc in next ‘ch1’ space, 1 dc in next st.
Turn your work.
REPEAT
Row 2 – 5 until you reach your desired length.
 Ice cream key chain
Ready to make you own ice cream cone key chain?
Round 1: 6 SC in a magic circle
Round 2: SC in each around (6)
Round 3: SC INC in each around (12)
Round 4-5: SC in each around (12)
Round 6: SC in the first, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Rounds 7-8: SC in each around. (18)
Round 9: SC in first two, SC INC in the next. Repeat around. (24)
Round 10-11: SC in each around. (24)
Switch to ice cream color.
Rounds 12-16: SC in each around.
Round 17: SC in the first two, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (18)
Round 18: SC in the first, INV DEC in the next. Repeat around. (12)
Round 19: INV DEC in each around. (6)
Make sure to stuff the top as well as you can (use your stuffing stick to make it through the small
hole). Fasten off and sew the top closed. Using the yarn tail, sew on the key chain through the bottom
loop. Then weave the end through the top (don’t pull too tight or it will make puckers.)
Now turn it so the tip of the cone is pointing up and away from you. Attach yarn the same color as
the ice cream part to the point where you changed the color from cone to ice cream. Chain 2. DC
around each stitch following the bottom portion of the ice cream. Slip stitch to the first stitch and
fasten off. Weave in ends.
Friday, March 3, 2017

Shamrock
953 Flower Crown: Free Crochet Pattern

Green isn't a prominent color in my wardrobe. So when St. Patrick's Day rolls around I'm usually
scrambling to find something to wear. I usually have to settle for an article of clothing that is much
more teal than kelly green or something green I've literally only kept around to wear once a year.
Sometimes, however, I end up just tying a green ribbon in my hair.

I wanted to be prepared this year. One thing I do happen to have in green is yarn, so I decided to start
from there. Instead of just a scarf or hat, I wanted something specifically festive for St. Patrick's Day.
After all, I will probably be pairing it with some less-than-green clothing. I decided I wanted to make
a flower crown. Specifically, a clover flower crown!

I was inspired by the Shell Stitch Crochet Headband on Jenny and Teddy and wanted to make my
own St. Pat's festive version. I really struggled to figure out how to accomplish that task without
making individual clovers and shamrocks and sewing them together, which would have been quite
tedious. I wanted to make this a fairly quick project since it is a wear one-day-a-year thing. I finally
found a way how after watching Crochet Flower Cord Tutorial from Sheruknittingcom on YouTube.
That pattern is quite pretty and the 5-petal flowers would definitely make a lovely spring and
summertime crochet flower crown. I adapted it to be able to make 3- and 4-leaf clovers for St.
Patrick's Day. I decided on mostly 3-leaf clovers, with the scattered 4-leaf shamrock for luck.

Crochet Pattern

Difficulty: Advanced beginner to intermediate

Materials Needed
green yarn*

crochet hook (1-2 sizes smaller than recommended on yarn ball)

scissors

yarn needle or small crochet hook for weaving in ends

* The weight of yarn and the gauge doesn't really matter here since you will be sizing the pattern as
you crochet. I just recommend using a slightly smaller hook to make tighter stitches.

Stitch Glossary (U.S. crochet terms)

ch = chain

yo = yarn over

blo = back loop only

sl st = slip stitch

sc = single crochet

dc2tog = double crochet 2 together

The 2nd leaf of each clover is connected to a chain from the previous clover.
The optional leaf to make a 4-leaf clover is made in between the 2nd leaf and the last leaf.

Picture Tutorial

Make the first tie-back: Make a chain that is 12” long (with aran weight yarn and an 'I' hook, this
was 57 stitches for me). Turn, slip stitch in the back loop only into 2nd chain from hook and across
the chain. You can make the starting chain longer or shorter based on your preference for the length
of the tie.

Make the first clover leaf: Chain 5. Sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. All stitches are worked
into the same stitch as the sc unless otherwise noted.

1st leaf, cont... Dc2tog: yo and insert hook, yo pull thru a loop (2 loops on hook), yo and insert hook,
yo pull thru a loop (3 loops on hook), yo pull thru all 3 loops.

1st leaf, cont... Chain 2, sc. 1st leaf is complete.

2nd leaf: Ch 2. Do the first half of a dc2tog: Yo, insert hook, yo pull thru a loop, yo pull through 2
loops (2 loops on hook)

2nd leaf...cont: Insert hook into the 1st ch of the original ch 5, yo pull thru a loop, yo pull thru the
remaining 3 loops.

2nd leaf...cont: Ch 2, sc. 2nd leaf complete.

Optional Leaf (to make it a 4-leaf clover): Ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sc. Optional leaf is complete.

Last leaf: Ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sl st to first sc from the 1st leaf. Clover is complete.

Repeat the following pattern for each remaining clover:

1st leaf: ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sc.

2nd leaf: ch 2, work the first half of a dc (yo, insert hook, yo pull thru a loop, yo pull thru 2
loops), insert hook into the 1st ch of the ch 5, yo pull thru a loop, yo, pull thru the remaining 3 loops,
ch 2, sc.

Optional leaf (to make 4-leaf clover): ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sc.

Last leaf: ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sl st to first sc.

Stop when your clover chain is almost long enough to fit around your head. My chain was (lucky?)
13 clovers.

Make the 2nd tie-back: Make a chain that is 12” long (should be the same number of chains as the
first tie-back). Turn, sl st blo into 2nd ch from hook and across.

Finish off. Weave in ends

Written Pattern
[first tie-back]

Make a chain that is 12” long (with aran weight yarn and an 'I' hook, this was 57 stitches)

Turn, sl st blo into 2nd ch from hook and across ch.

[clovers]

ch 5

1st leaf: sc into 2nd ch from hook [all stitches worked 2nd ch unless otherwise noted], ch 2, dc2tog,
ch 2, sc,

2nd leaf: ch 2, work the first half of a dc (yo, insert hook, yo pull thru a loop, yo pull thru 2 loops),
insert hook into the 1st ch of the original ch 5, yo pull thru a loop, yo, pull thru the remaining 3 loops,
ch 2, sc,

Optional leaf (to make 4-leaf clover): ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sc,

Last leaf: ch 2, dc2tog, ch 2, sl st to first sc.

Repeat process for making the clovers until it's long enough to fit around head.

[second tie-back]

Make a chain that is 12” long (should be # of chains from first tie-back)

Turn, sl st blo into 2nd ch from hook and across.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

If you make your own, I'd love you see a photo. You can post it to Ravelry or tag me in one of my
social medias (link in sidebar).

Happy Crocheting!
Mittens Ornament

Reading this Pattern and Colour Changes:

Everything is worked in single crochet stitches, except for row 21 where the stitches are
specified. So, in order to indicate the colour-changes, I have omitted the usual “sc” in front
of the stitch counts in any lines with colour-changes and I’ve used the associated colour
letter instead. For example, “Pdec” means to work a sc decrease in pink yarn. “P3, W1”
means to work the next 3 sc in pink and the next 1 sc in white, and so on.
Due to the colour-changes, you may want to have at least two balls of yarn attached to your
project at once by taking one skein of yarn and separating it into several smaller balls. This
cuts down significantly on having to carry your yarn. For example, you could use one white
ball for each side of the fair-isle mittens, rather than having to carry the white across the
back after every other row (regretfully, I didn’t do this and it was definitely a bit tangly).
The bonus part of the colour-changes in an amigurumi is that you don’t have to worry about
what the back of your panels look like! This is why I carry my yarn on the back instead of
carrying it inside the stitch as you go. It prevents any colours from bleeding through where
they shouldn’t. As long as you always carry your yarn on the back of your panel, you won’t
have to weave in any ends and you’ll have a beautiful smooth front with clear lines and
colours.
When changing colours, you will insert your hook into the stitch for the last stitch of Colour A
and pull up a loop. Then, with Colour B, yarn over and complete the stitch by pulling through
both loops with Colour B. Drop your working yarn in Colour A and continue with Colour B.
You will pick your Colour A working yarn back up again on the way back in the next row
when you need it.
*Make sure to always drop your yarn on the WRONG side of your panel!* So, for
example, when you are working on a row where the wrong side of the panel is facing you,
you will have to make a conscious effort to pull your yarn toward you to the wrong side of
the panel when dropping your yarn during a colour-change. This is because it will naturally
drop to the side furthest away from you if you don’t. It doesn’t matter which side you choose
as your “right” or “wrong” side, since the stitches look the same (unlike when working in the
round), just as long as you’re consistent in carrying your yarn!
Colour Legend:
W – White
P – Pink
G – Grey
Pink Fairisle Kawaii Mitten (make 4 panels) starting in Pink:
*Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. The first four rows are worked entirely in pink.*
Row 1: Ch 12, sc across (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), bpdc, fpdc across (11 sts)
*The last fpdc will not be worked around a post, since it’s the last st of the row. Simply insert
your hook from the front and complete a dc like normal.*
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as st), fpdc, bpdc across (11 sts)
*This row should line up such that the fpdc sts are worked over the bpdc of the previous
row, creating a uniform ridge.*
Row 4: Sc across (11 sts)
Now we will start incorporating the white.
Row 5: Pinc, P1, W1, P3, W1, P3, [W1, P1] in last st (13 sts)
Row 6: P13 (13 sts)
Row 7: Pinc, W1, P3, W1, P3, W1, P2, [P1, W1] in last st (15 sts)
Row 8: P15 (15 sts)
Row 9: W1, P3, W1, P3, W1, P3, W1, P2 (15 sts)
Row 10: P15 (15 sts)
Row 11: P2, [W1, P3] three times, W1 in last st (15 sts)
Row 12: P15 (15 sts)
Row 13: [W1, P3] three times, W1, P2 (15 sts)
Row 14: P15 (15 sts)
Row 15: P2, [W1, P3] three times, W1 in last st (15 sts)
Row 16: P15 (15 sts)
Row 17: [W1, P3] three times, W1, P2 (15 sts)
Row 18: Pdec, P11, Pdec (13 sts)
Row 19: Wdec, P3, W1, P3, W1, P1, Pdec (11 sts)
Row 20: Pdec, P7, Pdec (9 sts)
Row 21: Wdec, P1, Phdc 2, Whdc, P1, Pdec (7 sts)
Tie off. Repeat rows 1-21 for the back panel and then make 2 more panels for the second
mitten and set aside for assembly later.
Thumb:
The thumb section will be crocheted directly onto your panels, so you will need to join your
yarn to the panel in the first row after the ribbing rows, as seen below. Keep in mind that, on
two panels, you will need to attach the thumb with the right side of the panel facing you,
and on the other two panels, you will need to join the thumb with the wrong side of the
panel facing you. This ensures the mitten panels all match up and all the ends are on the
inside.
Starting thumb from the front on first panel
Starting thumb from the back on second panel

Row 1: Sc 6 along the edge of the panel (6 sts)

Row 2: Inc, sc 3, dec (6 sts)
Row 3: Dec, sc 3, inc (6 sts)
Row 4: Inc, sc 3, dec (6 sts)
Row 5: Dec, sc 3, inc (6 sts)
Row 6: Dec, hdc 2, dec (4 sts)
Tie off. Repeat for remaining panels.
Snowflake Mitten Front Panel (make 2 for a pair) starting in main colour (in my case,
grey):
Row 1: Ch 12, sc across (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), bpdc, fpdc across (11 sts)
*Remember, the last fpdc will not be worked around a post, since it’s the last st of the row.
Simply insert your hook from the front and work a dc as normal.*
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as st), fpdc, bpdc across (11 sts)
*The fpdcs and bpdcs should line up with the previous row to create uniform ridges.*
Row 4: Sc across (11 sts)
Row 5: Inc, sc 9, inc (13 sts)
Row 6: Sc across (13 sts)
Now we will start incorporating the colour-work for the snowflake pattern.
Row 7: Ginc, G2, P1, G5, P1, G2, Ginc (15 sts)
Row 8: G4, P2, G3, P2, G4 (15 sts)
Row 9: G4, P3, G1, P3, G4 (15 sts)
Row 10: G1, P3, G1, P2, G1, P2, G1, P3, G1 (15 sts)
Row 11: G2, P3, G1, P1, G1, P1, G1, P3, G2 (15 sts)
Row 12: G3, P3, G1, P1, G1, P3, G3 (15 sts)
Row 13: G6, P3, G6 (15 sts)
Row 14: G3, P3, G1, P1, G1, P3, G3 (15 sts)
Row 15: G2, P3, G1, P1, G1, P1, G1, P3, G2 (15 sts)
Row 16: G1, P3, G1, P2, G1, P2, G1, P3, G1 (15 sts)
Row 17: G4, P3, G1, P3, G4 (15 sts)
Row 18: Gdec, G2, P2, G3, P2, G2, Gdec (13 sts)
Row 19: Gdec, G1, P1, G5, P1, G1, Gdec (11 sts)
The last two rows are worked entirely in the main colour.
Row 20: Dec, sc 7, dec (9 sts)
Row 21: Dec, sc, hdc 3, sc, dec (7 sts)
Tie off. Repeat for the other front panel.
Snowflake Mitten Back Panel (or Solid Colour Mittens) (make 2 for a pair of snowflake
mittens or 4 for a pair of solid-colour mittens):
I chose to make the back panel of the snowflake mittens one solid colour (i.e. no pattern on
the back) but, if you want, you could make four panels with the snowflake pattern and make
them reversible, so to speak. If you want to make the back panel just one solid colour like I
did, or want to make your entire mitten in one solid colour, here are the details (the stitch
counts are exactly the same as the front panel above, just easier to read):
Row 1: Ch 12, sc across (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), bpdc, fpdc across (11 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2 (does not count as st), fpdc, bpdc across (11 sts)
Row 4: Sc across (11 sts)
Row 5: Inc, sc 9, inc (13 sts)
Row 6: Sc across (13 sts)
Row 7: Inc, sc 11, inc (15 sts)
Rows 8-17: Sc across (15 sts)
Row 18: Dec, sc 11, dec (13 sts)
Row 19: Dec, sc 9, dec (11 sts)
Row 20: Dec, sc 7, dec (9 sts)
Row 21: Dec, sc, hdc 3, sc, dec (7 sts)
Tie off. Repeat for the other back panel.
Now, crochet the thumbs onto the panels of the mittens as explained in the “Thumb” section
above. Move on to assembly below.
https://www.tyinganend.com/budding-leaf-bookmark/

BUDDING LEAF BOOKMARK

MARCH 18, 2018
INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1 – CH 15. Fasten off.

Step 2 – SL ST in 7th CH. HDC in same (7th) CH. (DC. TR 2. DC. HDC. [SC. CH 1. SC.] in last CH. HDC. DC.
TR 2. DC. HDC. SL ST in same stitch you just worked HDC in)*. SL ST in next (8th) CH.

Step 4 – Insert a hook into next stitch (8th CH). YOH and draw up a loop. Insert a hook into next stitch (SL ST
from very beginning of Step 2). YOH and draw up a loop. YOH and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
Step 5 – Pull a loop about 25″ long. Align the working yarn to 25″ as well then cut it.
Step 6 – Tie a knot with all 3 strands. Tie it again as you overlap the previous knot. Make 2 more big knots.

Step 7 – Cut the loop end and braid it about 11″ (28cm) long. Tie a knot at the end.
Step 8 – (Optional) Put a bead then tie a knot. Cut excess yarn at the end of the knot.
 Moroccan Pen Holder
Round 1: Yarn (A) .Ch 5, sl st in 1st ch to form a ring, ch 3
(consider as 1st dc), 14 dc in the ring, sl st in 1st dc to join. [15
dc]

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st in

1st dc to join. [30 dc]

Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, (dc in next st, 2 dc in next st)

around, sl st in 1st dc to join. [45 dc]

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in 1st dc to join.

Round 5 A: Ch 1, drop your yarn A, attach yarn b in last dc of

round 4, you will work this round using yarn B. Ch 3, 2 dc in the
same st, sk 2 sts, (sh in next st, sk next 2 sts) around, sl st in 1st
dc to join. Watch the video above (time: 6:41)

Round 5 B: You will work in the same round. Ch 1, drop your yarn
B, back to your dropped yarn A, ch 3, dc in next sp bet ch 3 and
dc of prev round {Note: make sure dc goes around sp between 2
sh, securing 2 sps together }, sk next 3 dc, (v-st in next sp bet 2
dc, sk next 3 dc) around, sl st in 1st dc to join. Watch the video
above (time: 10:11)

Round 6 - 11: Repeat round 5 A and B

Round 12-13: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each st around, sl st

in 1st sc to join. [45 sc]

Round 14: (Ch 3, sk next st, sl st in next st) around.

Fasten Off.