Fragrance Report

NOT
SO
SEXY
The health risks of secret

chemicals in fragrance
CANADIAN EDITION
MAY 2010
NOT SO SEXY:
The health risks of secret chemicals
in fragrance
CANADIAN EDITION
ABOUT THE CAMPAIGN FOR SAFE COSMETICS

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is a national coalition
of nonprofit women’s, environmental, public health,
by Heather Sarantis, MS, Commonweal; Olga V. faith and worker safety organizations. Our mission is
Naidenko, PhD, Sean Gray, MS, and Jane Houlihan, to protect the health of consumers and workers by
MSCE, Environmental Working Group; and securing the corporate, regulatory and legislative
Stacy Malkan, Campaign for Safe Cosmetics reforms necessary to eliminate dangerous chemicals
from cosmetics and personal care products.
Canadian Edition Edits by Environmental
Defence Canada.
ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENTAL WORKING GROUP
Additional contributors: Lisa Archer, Breast Environmental Working Group (EWG) is a nonprofit
Cancer Fund; Alexandra Gorman Scranton, research and advocacy organization based in
Women’s Voices for the Earth; Janet Nudelman, Washington DC and founded in 1993. Our team of
Breast Cancer Fund; Mia Davis, Clean Water scientists, engineers, policy experts, lawyers and
Action. computer programmers pores over government data,
legal documents, scientific studies and our own
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics would like to laboratory tests to expose threats to your health and
thank the following people for their review of the environment, and to find solutions. The mission of
sections of this report: Janet Gray, PhD, Vassar the Environmental Working Group (EWG) is to use the
College; Russ Hauser, MD, ScD, MPH, Frederick power of public information to protect public health
Lee Hisaw Professor of Reproductive and the environment. EWG specializes in providing
Physiology, Professor of Environmental and useful resources (like Skin Deep and the Shoppers'
Occupational Epidemiology, Harvard School of Guide to Pesticides in Produce) to consumers while
Public Health and Professor of Obstetrics, simultaneously pushing for national policy change.
Gynecology and Reproductive Biology Harvard
Medical School; Ted Schettler, MD, MPH,
ABOUT ENVIRONMENTAL DEFENCE CANADA
Science and Environmental Health Network;
Environmental Defence protects the environment and
and Anne C. Steinemann, PhD, Professor of Civil
human health. We research. We educate. We go to
and Environmental Engineering, Professor of
court when we have to. All in order to ensure clean air,
Public Affairs, University of Washington.
clean water and thriving ecosystems nationwide, and
to bring a halt to Canada’s contribution to climate
Any errors or omissions in this report are the
change. Nationwide.
responsibility of the Campaign for Safe
Cosmetics and Environmental Defence Canada.
www.environmentaldefence.ca
Support for this project was provided by The
As You Sow Foundation, The Jacob and Hilda
Blaustein Fund, Johnson Family Foundation and
Copyright May 2010 by the Breast Cancer Fund,
The Richard and Rhoda Goldman Fund.
Commonweal and Environmental Working Group.
Canadian product testing funding provided by
Environmental Defence Canada. Environmental
Defence Canada thanks the John Merck Fund
Visit www.environmentaldefence.ca,
and the Marisla Foundation for their support.
www.SafeCosmetics.org and
www.CosmeticDatabase.com for more information.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
A rose may be a rose. But that rose-like fragrance in your perfume may be something else entirely,
concocted from any number of the fragrance industry’s 3,100 stock chemical ingredients, the blend
of which is almost always kept hidden from the consumer.
Laboratory tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and analyzed by Environmental
Working Group found, in all, 40 chemicals in the 17 name-brand tested fragrance products. 38 of
these were secret, or unlabelled, for at least one of the products containing them, while the other
2 were listed on all relevant product labels. Ingredient labels disclosed the presence of another 51
chemical ingredients, giving a total of 91 chemical ingredients altogether in the tested products,
including hidden and disclosed ingredients combined. Of the 17 products tested, 13 were purchased
in the U.S. and four in Canada. The Canadian-purchased products are American Eagle Seventy
Seven, Acqua Di Gio by Giorgio Armani, Light Blue by Dolce & Gabbana, and Quiksilver (for men)
and were, in fact, some of the highest scoring products in terms of number of total chemicals,
secret chemicals, and sensitizing chemicals. Acqua Di Gio contained the highest number of total
chemicals and the highest number of sensitizing chemicals, and American Eagle Seventy Seven
contained the highest number of secret chemicals. Quiksilver (for men) was tied with two others
for the highest number of hormone disrupting chemicals. The Canadian products are highlighted
in red in the report’s charts. None of the chemicals labelled or found in the Canadian products are
on the Canadian Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist, a list of prohibited substances in cosmetics, although
some are restricted in European cosmetics. Products were tested by Analytical Sciences, an
independent laboratory in Petaluma, California.
Key findings:
• Secret chemicals: Laboratory tests revealed 38 secret chemicals in 17 name-brand products,

with an average of 14 secret chemicals per product. American Eagle Seventy Seven
contained 24 secret chemicals, nearly twice the average found in other products tested.
• Multiple sensitizers: The products tested contained an average of 10 chemicals that are
known to be sensitizers and can trigger allergic reactions, such as asthma, wheezing,
headaches and contact dermatitis. All of these were listed on product labels. Giorgio
Armani Acqua Di Gio contained 19 different sensitizing chemicals that can trigger allergic
reactions, more than any other product tested.
• Multiple hormone disruptors: A total of 12 different hormone-disrupting chemicals were

found in the tested products, with an average of four in each product. Three products
each contained seven different chemicals with the potential to disrupt the hormone system:
Halle by Halle Berry, Quiksilver and Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow. In each product, six of
these chemicals mimic the hormone estrogen, and the seventh is associated with thyroid
effects. Some of these potential hormone disruptors were listed on labels; others were
undisclosed and were uncovered in product testing.
continued on next page…
NOT SO SEXY: THE HEALTH RISKS OF SECRET CHEMICALS IN FRAGRANCE | Canadian Edition 2
• Widespread use of chemicals that have not been assessed for safety: Health Canada
does not systematically test fragrance ingredients for safety in personal care products.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), an industry-funded and self-policing body, has
assessed only 19 of the 91 ingredients listed on labels or found in testing for the 17 products
assessed in this study. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the Research
Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), which develop and set voluntary standards for
chemicals in the “fragrance” component of products, have assessed only 27 of the 91
ingredients listed on labels or found in testing for the 17 products assessed in this study,
based on a review of assessments published in the past 25 years.
Results at a glance for all fragrance ingredients combined (disclosed on label or

revealed in product tests)
Average
for all 17 Extreme product (highest number)
fragrances
Chemical ingredients 29 40..........Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio

(tested + labeled)
Secret chemicals 14 24 ..........American Eagle Seventy Seven

(found in testing, not on label)
Sensitizing chemicals 10 19............Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio

(can trigger allergic reactions)
Hormone disruptors 4 7 ..............Halle by Halle Berry, Quiksilver,

(can disrupt natural hormones) Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow
Chemicals not assessed 12 16 Coco Mademoiselle Chanel,

for safety (by government or Halle by Halle Berry, American
industry) Eagle Seventy Seven
Source: Environmental Working Group analysis of product labels and tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. Health risks from
secret chemicals depend on the mixture in each product, the chemicals hazards, the amounts that absorb into the body, and individual vulnerability
to health problems.
Note: Products purchased in Canada are highlighted in red.
People have the right to know which chemicals they are being exposed to. They have the right to
expect the government to protect people, especially vulnerable populations, from hazardous
chemicals. In addition to required safety assessments of ingredients in cosmetics, the laws must be
changed to require the chemicals in fragrance to be fully disclosed and publicly accessible on
ingredient labels.
INTRODUCTION Fragrance, perfume &
cologne – what’s the
difference?
When sprayed or applied on the skin, many chemicals from
perfumes, cosmetics and personal care products are inhaled. Perfumes, colognes and body
Others are absorbed through the skin. Either way, many of these sprays are often called “fragrances.”
chemicals can accumulate in the body. As a result, the bodies of But in Canada, fragrance is
most Americans and Canadians are polluted with considered “an ingredient that
multiple cosmetics ingredients. This pollution begins in the has been added to the cosmetic
womb and continues through life. product in order to produce or
mask a particular odour” (Health
Canada 2008). Fragrance
Most unfortunately, widespread exposure and a long-standing
ingredients may be produced by
culture of secrecy within the fragrance industry continue to put
chemical synthesis or derived
countless people at risk of contact sensitization to fragrances
from petroleum or natural raw
with poorly-tested and intentionally unlabeled ingredients materials. Companies that
(Schnuch 2007). manufacture perfume or cologne
purchase fragrance mixtures
Product tests initiated by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and from fragrance houses (companies
subsequent analyses, detailed in this report, reveal that widely that specialize in developing
recognized brand-name perfumes and colognes contain secret fragrances) to develop their own
chemicals, sensitizers, potential hormone disruptors and chemicals proprietary blends. In addition to
not assessed for safety. Fragrance secrecy in Canada is due to a “scent” chemicals that we
loophole in the Canadian Cosmetic Regulations, which took actually smell, perfumes and
colognes also contain solvents,
effect in 2004. Under the regulations, while all intentional non-
stabilizers, UV-absorbers,
fragrance ingredients must be listed on cosmetics and personal
preservatives and dyes. These
care products, companies can choose to lump intentional
additives are frequently, but not
fragrance ingredients under the generic term “parfum” (Health always, listed on product labels.
Canada 2008). By taking advantage of this loophole, the In contrast, the chemical
cosmetics industry has kept the public in the dark about the components in fragrance can be
ingredients in fragrance, even those that present potential health lumped together and described
risks or build up in people’s bodies. on the label only as “parfum”
although the term “fragrance”
Additionally, Canada does not require manufacturers to is frequently used as well.
systematically test the chemicals used in personal care products
for safety. After these products are on the market, government
product testing is often only done in special circumstances.
As a result, people using perfume, cologne, body spray and
other scented cosmetics, such as lotion and aftershave, are
unknowingly exposed to chemicals that may increase their risk
for certain health problems.
In addition to the secret chemicals found via testing, some chemicals that are disclosed on the labels
of the products in this report also raise safety concerns. They include sunscreen and ultraviolet-protector
chemicals associated with hormone disruption (Schlumpf 2004) and 24 chemical sensitizers that can
trigger allergic reactions (European Commission Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and
Non-Food Products (EC) 1999).
As our test results show, short of sending Most secret chemicals revealed
your favorite perfume to a lab for testing,
shoppers have no way of knowing exactly in fragrance testing have not
which of the 3,100 fragrance ingredients been assessed for safety
may be hiding in their beauty products or
even in their child’s baby shampoo. This 80%
study focused on several categories of
70%
chemicals – specifically volatile compounds,
semi-volatile compounds and synthetic 60%
musks. The laboratory analyses, while 50%

thorough, were not exhaustive, which means
40%
that additional chemicals of concern may
also be present in the tested products. 30%
20%
10%
0%
SECTION 1: Percentage of chemicals not assessed for safety by fragrance

industry.
SECRET CHEMICALS Source: EWG analysis of product labels, tests commissioned
by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and reports of safety
assessments by the Personal Care Products Council and
Avoiding questionable fragrance International Fragrance Association in the past 25 years.
ingredients in personal care products,

under current laws, is nearly impossible.
Numerous products used daily, such as
shampoos, lotions, bath products,
cleaning sprays, air fresheners and laundry
and dishwashing detergents, contain strongly scented, volatile ingredients that are hidden behind the
word “parfum” or “fragrance.” Some of these ingredients react with ozone in the indoor air, generating
many potentially harmful secondary air pollutants such as formaldehyde and ultrafine particles
(Nazaroff 2004).
Increasingly, personal care products have claims like “natural fragrance,” “pure fragrance” or “organic
fragrance.” None of these terms has an enforceable legal definition. All can be misleading. One study
found that 82 per cent of perfumes based on “natural ingredients” contained synthetic fragrances
(Rastogi 1996). Moreover, just because a fragrance ingredient is derived from a plant or an animal
source does not mean it is safe for everyone, since many all-natural and herbal products contain
fragrance allergens (Scheinman 2001).
Ingredients not in a product’s hidden fragrance mixture must be listed on the label. As a result,
manufacturers disclose some chemical constituents on ingredient lists but lump others together in
the generic category of “parfum” or “fragrance.” In fact, “fragrances” are typically mixtures of many
different secret chemicals, like those uncovered in this study.
What Was Found
Laboratory tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics revealed 38 secret chemicals
in 17 name-brand fragrance products, compounds detected in tests but not listed on labels. American
Eagle Seventy Seven contained the greatest number, with 24, followed by Coco Mademoiselle
Chanel with 18, and Britney Spears Curious and Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio with 17. On average, the
fragrance products tested contained 14 secret chemicals not disclosed on labels. Among them are
chemicals associated with hormone disruption and allergic reactions, and many substances that
have not been assessed for safety in personal care products.
The Environmental Working Group assessed these compounds against the published scientific
literature, uncovering a wide range of troubling evidence pointing to potential health hazards and
the likelihood for some of these compounds to accumulate in human tissues or cross the placenta
when pregnant women are exposed. For many of the secret chemicals, no safety studies are
publicly available in the open scientific literature.
When it comes to their use in fragrance, the safety of many of the secret compounds identified in
this study cannot be assessed from the scant records of toxicity data in the public scientific literature.
Of 38 undisclosed chemicals in the 17 fragrance products assessed:
• 10 undisclosed chemicals lack any public toxicity information whatsoever in published

scientific literature, according to EWG’s survey of the federal government’s comprehensive
PubMed online scientific library.
• At least 6 other undisclosed compounds have three or fewer published toxicity studies,
or have been deemed by a government agency to be completely lacking toxicity data
for critical health risks of concern, such as cancer or birth defects. One notable example
is the jasmine-scented chemical called hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate), one of the
most commonly used fragrances in perfumes and colognes. PubMed contains only one
published toxicity study on hedione (Politano 2008), even though more than 1,000 metric
tons of the fragrance compound are used every year worldwide.
• 9 undisclosed chemicals are potential sensitizers or contact allergens, based on laboratory

studies or investigations of human volunteers, including four compounds that companies
must explicitly list on product labels in the EU so consumers can avoid them if they choose.
• 6 undisclosed chemicals are potential hormone disruptors based on published laboratory

or epidemiology studies, including diethyl phthalate, a chemical found in 97 per cent of
Americans (Silva 2004) and linked to sperm damage in human epidemiological studies
(Swan 2008); musk ketone, a synthetic fragrance ingredient that concentrates in human
fat tissue and breast milk (Reiner 2007); octinoxate, a sunscreen chemical that may
affect estrogen and thyroid hormones (Schlumpf 2004); and Tonalide, a synthetic musk
that may interfere with estrogen and androgens (male hormones) (Schreurs 2005).
continued on next page…
• 12 undisclosed chemicals pose other potential health risks. For example, in a recently
published, two-year study of laboratory animals, the National Toxicology Program found
evidence of carcinogenicity for the fragrance compound myrcene (NTP 2009), an ingredient
in 16 of 17 fragrance products assessed in this study. Another study indicates that inhalation
exposure to the fragrance compound p-cymene is associated with neurotoxicity (reduced
density and number of synapses) in laboratory animals (Lam 1996). This compound was
found in 11 of 17 products.
• On average, the 17 name-brand fragrances tested in this study contained nearly equal
numbers of secret and labeled ingredients, with 14 chemicals kept secret but found through
testing, and 15 disclosed on labels.
For most undisclosed ingredients, very few toxicity studies are available. Much of the data that is
available, including studies highlighted above and in Appendix D, indicate cause for concern and
the need for further study.
Popular fragrances contain 14 secret chemicals on average
Source: Environmental Working Group analysis of product labels and tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. Health risks
from secret chemicals depend on the mixture in each product, the chemicals hazards, the amounts that absorb into the body, and individual
vulnerability to health problems.
SECTION 2: SENSITIZERS Allergic effects
associated with exposure
During the last 20 years, fragrance contact allergy has become a to fragranced products
major global health problem (Scheinman 2002). Many scientists
attribute this phenomenon to a steady increase in the use of Headaches
fragrance in cosmetics and household products (Johansen 2000;
Chest tightness and wheezing
Karlberg 2008). Fragrance is now considered among the top
Infant diarrhea and vomiting
five allergens in North America and European countries (de
Groot 1997; Jansson 2001) and is associated with a wide range Mucosal irritation
of skin, eye and respiratory reactions. Repeated, cumulative Reduced pulmonary function
exposure to chemical sensitizers like allergenic fragrance ingre- Asthma and asthmatic
dients increases the chance that a person will develop allergic exacerbation
symptoms later in life (Buckley 2003). A clinical review of Rhinitis and airway irritation
fragrance ingredients found that at least 100 are known to cause
Sense organ irritation
contact allergy (Johansen 2003), a potentially debilitating
Contact dermatitis
condition that can result in itchy, scaly, painful skin. Fragrance-
induced dermatitis (eczema) can develop anywhere on the
Table adapted from Caress and Steinemann 2009.
body, but the hands, face and axillae (underarm, from use of
deodorants) are most often affected. Hand eczema impairs
quality of life and is also of economic consequence for society,
due to allergy sufferers’ missed workdays and need for medical
treatment. Unfortunately, many consumers do not know which
specific chemical ingredient may trigger their fragrance sensitivity
and contact allergy.
In 2007, the American Contact Dermatitis Society

named fragrance “Allergen of the Year.” 20
— American Contact Dermatitis Society 2010
Also unfortunately, scientists have not determined precisely how inhaling perfume chemicals can
cause respiratory distress (Eberling 2004; Schnuch 2010) or how exposures to traces of a fragrance
can trigger contact allergy (EC 1999). They are trying to establish whether reactions are triggered
by scent chemicals themselves (Lastbom 2003), their oxidation products (Christensson 2009) or
other ingredients such as phthalates, which are strongly associated with asthma and other reactive
airway symptoms (Bornehag 2010; Mendel 2007).
Companies using these compounds can choose to comply with concentration limits recommended
by the International Fragrance Association to help prevent users from developing allergies or
contact dermatitis. But these limits are based on the assumption that people are exposed to just
one sensitizer at a time. The prevalence of fragrance allergies suggests that the fragrance industry’s
self-imposed concentration limits are either not followed or not sufficiently protective.
Compared to companies selling in Canada, those marketing fragrances in Europe are required to
fully disclose common allergens. In 1999, the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on
Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP) published a list of well-known allergenic
substances comprised of 24 chemicals and two botanical preparations. These ingredients are all
used as scents, are recognized to be allergens or to form allergenic oxidation products upon storage,
and must be listed on the labels of any personal care product containing them (EC 1999; van
Oosten 2009). The EU’s SCCNFP committee decided these allergenic substances must be listed on
the label whenever their concentration in a leave-on product exceeds 0.001 per cent (10 parts per
million or ppm).
Many of the sensitizing chemicals in perfumes and colognes are also found in a wide range of other
products, increasing a consumer’s total exposures and overall risk for developing allergies. For
example, limonene is a fragrance chemical that is commonly used as a solvent in cleaning products
and degreasers where it may be listed as “citrus oil.” While on the shelf or in the warehouse,
limonene breaks down to form potent sensitizers (Karlberg 1997; Topham 2003). Of additional
concern, limonene can react readily with ozone, both indoors and outdoors, to generate a range of
hazardous pollutants such as formaldehyde, acetaldehyde and ultrafine particles. (Nazaroff 2004;
Singer 2006). Some of these secondary pollutants are carcinogens and pose a variety of other
health concerns such as asthma (USEPA 2005; USEPA 2007a). Another common sensitizer is the
lavender oil component linalool and its derivatives linalyl acetate and linalyl anthranilate, which
form contact allergens when exposed to air (Hagvall, 2008; Skold, 2008). Similarly, geraniol, a rose
oil component, becomes more allergenic upon storage and oxidation (Hagvall, 2007).
What Was Found

Sensitizing chemicals that can trigger allergic reactions were common in the 17 name-brand fragrances
assessed in this study:
• Perfumes, colognes and body sprays contained an average of 10 sensitizing ingredients each.
• Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio contained 19 different sensitizing chemicals, more than any
other product assessed.
• Limonene was found in 16 tested products, the lavender oil component linalool was
found in 14 tested products, and geraniol was found in 12 tested products
• 22 of the 26 EU-recognized sensitizers were found in the products tested in this study.
• Altogether, the 17 products assessed contained 24 chemicals classified as sensitizers or

chemicals with sensitizing potential according to the International Fragrance Association,
the European Union or the peer-reviewed scientific literature (Api 2008; EC 1999).
EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT
TOTAL SENSITIZING CHEMICALS
Table 1:
ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE
Chemical
sensitizers
AMYLCINNAMALDEHYDE
LINALYL ANTHRANILATE
HYDROXYCITRONELLAL
in popular
CINNAMYL ALCOHOL
BENZYL SALICYLATE
BENZYL CINNAMATE
BENZYL BENZOATE
perfumes,
BENZYL ALCOHOL
HEXYL CINNAMAL
LINALYL ACETATE
colognes
CITRONELLOL
ISOEUGENOL
and body
COUMARIN
CINNAMAL
FARNESOL
LIMONENE
GERANIOL
LINALOOL
sprays
EUGENOL
CITRAL
LYRAL
LILIAL
Giorgio Armani
Acqua Di Gio 19
Jennifer Lopez
J. Lo Glow 16
Calvin Klein
Eternity (for women) 15
Bath & Body

Works Japanese
Cherry Blossom 13
Britney Spears
Curious 13
Calvin Klein
Eternity (for men) 13
Quiksilver (for men) 13
Victoria's Secret Dream

Angels Heavenly 13
Coco Mademoiselle
Chanel 12
Clinique Happy 10
Abercrombie &
Fitch Fierce 8
American Eagle
Seventy Seven 7
Hannah Montana
Secret Celebrity 5
Dolce & Gabbana

Light Blue 4
Old Spice After

Hours Body Spray 4
AXE Bodyspray
For Men - Shock 3
Sensitizing chemical listed on ingredient label or found in product testing. Some of these chemicals such as eugenol, lilial or
limonene, were listed on some but not all product labels, while others, such as linalool derivatives linalyl acetate and linalyl
anthranilate, were not listed on any product label.
Source: EWG analysis of product labels and tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
AXE: Beyond hormone
disruptors
SECTION 3: HORMONE DISRUPTORS
Tests found fewer hormone
A significant number of industrial chemicals, including some in disruptors in AXE Body Spray for
fragrances, can act as hormone disruptors by interfering with Men than in all but one other
the production, release, transport, metabolism and binding of product. But that doesn’t mean
the product is safe. On February
hormones to their targets in the body (Gray 2009; Rudel 2007). 10, 2010 the California Air
The greatest concern is that these chemicals, through their ability Resources Board announced that
it was issuing a $1.3 million fine
to mimic or disrupt natural estrogen, testosterone and thyroid
to Conopco Inc. (operating under
pathways, may impair basic body functions like tissue growth and the Unilever name) for contami-
repair that are normally regulated by natural hormone signaling nating California air with volatile
(Soto 2009). Some hormone disruptors can prevent the action organic compounds (VOCs) each
of naturally occurring hormones and interfere with the endocrine time a young man sprays himself
system. Some can also act as hormone mimickers that simulate with AXE. Between 2006 and 2008
the company sold 2.8 million
the activity of hormones, such as estrogen, and send a hormone- products that failed to meet
like signal at the wrong time and to the wrong tissues. Depending California’s clean air standards
on the dose and timing, exposure to hormone disruptors has
been linked to a wide range of health problems (Heindel 2009), (Environmental News Service 2010).
including an increased risk of cancer, especially breast (Breast

Cancer Fund 2008) and prostate (Prins 2008) cancers;
reproductive toxicity and effects on the developing fetus;
early puberty (Caserta 2008); infertility (Guidice 2006); and
predisposi-tion to metabolic disease such as thyroid problems (Jugan 2010) or obesity (Hotchkiss
2008). Certain hormone disruptors can also impact the optimum thyroid levels crucial to normal
brain development and growth in the fetus, infants and young children (Schmutzler 2007).
Recent research has clearly demonstrated that even at low doses, exposure to hormonal disrup-
tors during susceptible periods can have drastic consequences for health later in life. Scientists are
especially concerned about the impact of hormone-disrupting chemicals during critical windows of
development, such as fetal development (Breast Cancer Fund 2008).
However, further research is needed to investigate the connections between endocrine disruptors
and adverse health effects (Charles 2009). Scientists are still trying to understand the human health
implication of lifelong, cumulative exposure to mixtures of hormonally active chemicals. Unfortunately,
the evidence available to-date is dominated by laboratory studies, known as “in vitro assays,” which
focus on interactions between chemicals and hormone receptors in cells grown in laboratory cultures.
A smaller number of “in vivo” studies involving laboratory animals have investigated the effects of
these potential hormone disruptors on living creatures. Even fewer analyses explore the possible
impact of these chemicals on the human hormone system and hormone-responsive organs at current
levels of exposure. Some fragrance ingredients have been tested only in laboratory cell cultures.
A growing body of laboratory and epidemiology studies of fragrance chemicals indicates a wide-rang-
ing spectrum of risk, from immune toxicity to effects on the endocrine system. Since the majority of cos-
metics ingredients have not undergone a comprehensive panel of toxicity tests, scientists often need to
do the detective work in piecing together findings from different experimental systems, making con-
nections among cellular, animal, human and environmental toxicity studies and weighing out the
evidence that is currently available.
What Was Found

Ingredients with the potential to act as hormone disruptors were common in the 17 name-brand
fragrances assessed in this study:
• Perfumes, colognes and body sprays contained an average of four potential hormone-
disrupting ingredients each.
• A total of 12 such ingredients were found in the tested products. Halle by Halle Berry,
Quiksilver and Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow each contained seven different potentially
hormone-disrupting ingredients, the highest number among tested products.
• Altogether, the 12 ingredients may mimic or interfere with estrogen, male hormones
(androgens) and thyroid hormones. Many of the chemicals found can impact more than
one of these systems, but 11 of 12 mimic estrogen or display estrogen-like activity in
laboratory studies.
DISRUPTING CHEMICALS
Table 2:
DIETHYL PHTHALATE
BENZYL SALICYLATE
Hormone-disrupting
BENZYL BENZOATE
BENZOPHENONE-2
BENZOPHENONE-1
chemicals in popular
TOTAL HORMONE
perfumes, colognes
MUSK KETONE
OXYBENZONE
GALAXOLIDE
OCTINOXATE
and body sprays
TONALIDE
LILIAL
BHT
Halle by Halle Berry 7

Quiksilver (for men) 7
Jennifer Lopez J. Lo Glow 7
American Eagle Seventy Seven 6
Bath & Body Works Japanese Cherry Blossom 6
Calvin Klein Eternity (for women) 6
Calvin Klein Eternity (for men) 5
Coco Mademoiselle Chanel 5
Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio 5
Victoria’s Secret Dream Angels Heavenly 4
Britney Spears Curious 4
Clinique Happy 3
Hannah Montana Secret Celebrity 3
Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue 3
Old Spice After Hours Body Spray 2
Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce 1
AXE Bodyspray For Men - Shock 1
Detected in product testing or listed on ingredient label
Source: EWG analysis of product labels and tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and results of hormone system studies in the open
scientific literature
The analysis below reviews in detail available studies on hormone disruption conducted for chemicals
found in the 17 products tested in this study. Importantly, for many ingredients in the tested products,
there is almost no safety information in the public domain. For example, PubMed, the federal
government’s database of peer-reviewed scientific research, contains no toxicity studies for the
sunscreen ingredient diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, known under a trade name
Uvinul A Plus, or the preservative tetradibutyl pentaerithrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, known under
the trade name Irganox1010. The complete list of ingredients with potential endocrine-disrupting
properties may, in fact, be much larger than the 12 discussed below.
• Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) - found in 7 products tested for this report - is a

sunscreen ingredient and UV absorber that has been linked with estrogenic activity in vitro
and in vivo. In laboratory studies with cultured cells, octinoxate binds to and stimulates the
human estrogen receptor (Gomez 2005). Estrogenic effects of octinoxate on fish have
also been reported (Inui 2003). In studies with laboratory animals, exposure to octinoxate
increases the weight of the uterus, a hallmark of estrogenic response and an indicator of
possible adverse long-term health effects in humans and wildlife (Schlumph 2001; 2003).
Octinoxate has been also shown to disrupt the function of hypothalamo-pituitary-thyroid
endocrine pathway and to suppress the levels of thyroid hormones in laboratory animals
(Schmutzler 2004), indicating that it is likely to be a thyroid toxicant as well (Klammer 2007).
• Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) - found in 1 product tested for this report - is a sunscreen

ingredient that has been reported to act as an endocrine disruptor based on studies with
cultured cells and with laboratory animals (Kunz 2006; Nakagawa 2002; NTP 1992).
Oxybenzone stimulates estrogen receptors and increases the weight of the uterus in
exposed rodents (Schlumpf 2004). It has also been shown to antagonize androgen (male
hormone) receptor function in human cancer cells (Ma 2003). A study with cultured cells
also found that oxybenzone increased production of the stress hormone corticosterone
from adrenal gland cells (Ziolkowska 2006). In people, higher maternal exposures to
oxybenzone have been linked to decreased birth weight in baby girls (Wolff 2008).
• Benzophenone-1 - found in 1 product tested for this report - is a sunscreen ingredient that
has been shown to have both estrogenic and androgenic properties, as demonstrated by
its ability to bind and stimulate the human estrogen receptor and to increase uterine
weight in laboratory animals (Suzuki 2005; Schlumpf 2004).
• Benzophenone-2 - found in 1 product tested for this report - is a sunscreen ingredient that
interferes with thyroid function in laboratory animals (Schmutzler 2007; Schlecht 2006).
It also demonstrates estrogenic activity in studies with laboratory animals and in studies of
cultured cells (Schlumpf 2004; Schlecht 2004).
• Diethyl phthalate - found in 12 products tested for this report - is a fragrance solvent that
has been associated with adverse effects on the development of the reproductive system
in epidemiological studies. Although research is not yet definitive on the mechanism of DEP
toxicity, findings from human studies raise strong concerns about the safety of DEP exposures
(Swan 2008). (See Appendix B)
• Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) - found in 6 products tested for this report - is a
preservative and stabilizer. Two studies have linked BHT with adverse effects on the thyroid
(Sondergaard 1982) and possible thyroid carcinogenesis (Ito 1985).
• Synthetic musks Galaxolide, Tonalide and musk ketone - found in 15, 5, and 1 product
tested, respectively for this report - have not yet been tested in long-term studies that could
specifically address effects on the endocrine system (van der Berg 2008). Significant data
gaps and lack of adequate animal or human studies makes definitive characterization of
endocrine toxicity a challenge. However, a substantial body of data from laboratory studies
with cell culture models indicates that these chemicals can affect the function of the human
estrogen receptor as well as receptors for other hormones such as androgen and progesterone
and stimulate the growth of hormone-sensitive cancer cells in vitro (Schreurs 2005). Both
Galaxolide and Tonalide musks contaminate people and the environment worldwide, and
have been associated with toxicity to the endocrine system (van der Burg 2008). A recent
EWG study found both in the cord blood of newborn babies (EWG 2009). (See Appendix C)
• Benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and scent chemical lilial (butylphenyl methylpropional)
- found in 8, 6, and 5 products tested respectively for this report - have demonstrated
estrogenic activity in a recent study with human breast cancer cells (Charles 2009).
Table 3: HORMONE SYSTEM AFFECTED

Twelve fragrance chemicals
that may affect sex hormones Estrogen Androgens Thyroid
and the thyroid (male hormones)
Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) ✔✱ ✱

Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) ✔✱ ✔
Benzophenone-1 ✔✱ ✔
Benzophenone-2 ✔✱ ✔✱
Diethyl phthalate ✔
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) ✱
Galaxolide ✔ ✔
Tonalide ✔ ✔
Musk ketone ✔
Benzyl salicylate ✔
Benzyl benzoate ✔
Lilial (butylphenyl methylpropional) ✔
✔ Potential to disrupt the indicated hormone system based on findings from published cell culture studies
✱ Potential to disrupt the indicated hormone system based on findings from published animal studies
Source: EWG analysis of product labels and tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and results of hormone system studies in the open
scientific literature.
SECTION 4: THE SELF-POLICING FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY
Canada does not require manufacturers to systematically test the chemicals in personal care products
for safety. After these products are on the market, government product testing is often only done
in special circumstances. However, a manufacturer may be requested to supply evidence that a
product is safe (Department of Justice Canada 2010). If a product does not comply with the Canadian
legislation, the government determines a course of action which may be “voluntary measures, warning
letters, import refusal, public advisories, product seizure, and, ultimately, prosecution in the courts”
(Health Canada, 2008). A voluntary approach is encouraged and fines are rare (Health Canada 2009b).
Two industry trade associations administer programs that set voluntary standards, which cosmetic
companies and fragrance houses can choose to follow – or not. The International Fragrance
Association (IFRA) sets standards for chemicals in the “fragrance” component of products, and the
Personal Care Product Association’s (PCPC) Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) suggests voluntary
standards for other cosmetics ingredients in the United States.
CIR: In the absence of government authority, an industry-funded and self-policing body called
the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel vouches for the safety of cosmetic ingredients.
In the 30 years since its creation, this panel has only evaluated 11 per cent of the ingredients
used in cosmetics (EWG 2005). The CIR sets voluntary guidelines and does not actively monitor
products for compliance. Even for the few chemicals it does evaluate, the CIR rarely evaluates
cumulative effects of exposures to toxic cosmetic ingredients over a lifetime; the aggregate
exposure of cosmetic ingredients in combination with other toxic chemical exposures; the timing
of exposure which can magnify the harm, particularly for infants and young children; or worker
exposures in beauty salons and manufacturing plants.
The CIR has assessed only 19 of the 91 ingredients listed on labels or found in testing for the
17 products assessed in this study.
IFRA: IFRA sets voluntary standards for fragrance houses and the manufacturers of fragrance
ingredients. The compliance program, initiated in 2007, tests fragrance samples for prohibited
ingredients (the program historically has only looked at prohibited ingredients and is now begin-
ning to look at restricted ingredients as well). If there are violations, the supplier’s name is
posted on IFRA’s website as not complying with the IFRA Code of Practice. IFRA has banned
or restricted approximately 150 ingredients from fragrance (IFRA 2010).
IFRA’s recommendations are based on research conducted by the Research Institute for
Fragrance Materials (RIFM). IFRA members are given access to a database generated by RIFM
that houses safety information – and testing gaps – on the more than 3,100 fragrance ingredients
used by IFRA members.
IFRA has assessed only 22 of the 91 ingredients listed on labels or found in testing for the 17
products assessed in this study.
The good news, however, is that some companies agree that it is prudent to restrict or eliminate
certain hazardous chemicals from fragrances, such as musks and phthalates. For example, The
Body Shop and Boots have agreed not to use artificial musks and phthalates in their products
(Boots 2005; Body Shop 2008). While these are only two of many chemicals of concern used in
fragrance, this is a step in the right direction that the whole industry should follow. More than 200
companies are also fully disclosing all the ingredients – including fragrance – on their ingredient
labels, as part of their commitment to the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge of safety and
transparency. (See Appendix E for a list of these companies.)
SECTION 5: SAFER PRODUCTS AND SMARTER LAWS

Products we put on our bodies should not contain chemicals that could damage our health. Yet due
to gaping holes in federal law, it is perfectly legal for perfumes, colognes, body lotions, shampoos and
other cosmetics and personal care products to contain sensitizers, hormone disruptors, reproductive
toxicants, carcinogens and other toxic chemicals linked to harmful health effects.
In Canada, cosmetics are regulated under the Cosmetic Regulations of the Food and Drugs Act.
Currently, under this legislation, cosmetics and personal care products are allowed on the market
prior to manufacturers telling the federal government what is in them. In fact, manufacturers and
importers are only required to submit a list of ingredients and their concentrations to Health Canada
up to 10 days after the product is on the market (Department of Justice Canada 2010). When
disclosure finally does take place, loopholes fail to require reporting on byproducts of manufacturing,
also called impurities. The public also has no way of knowing all of the intentional ingredients a
product contains because of the ability to cloak substances under the term “parfum”.
The lack of full disclosure regarding the ingredients that make up fragrance is only one of the
problems associated with the cosmetics industry. While the Government of Canada has a list of
restricted and prohibited ingredients in Canadian cosmetics that helps manufacturers make sure
that they are not selling products that will cause harm (Health Canada 2009a), the legal authority
of this list is unclear and any prohibitions do not pertain to impurities (or byproducts). Furthermore,
there are more than 1,000 chemicals, including carcinogens, mutagens, and reproductive toxicants,
that are legally banned in European cosmetics (European Parliament and Council Directive
2003/15/EC and Cosing 2009), many of which are not on the Canadian Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist.
Additionally, regulatory and standard-setting agencies do not often consider the risk to human health
of cumulative exposures to the same chemical from multiple sources, nor do they consider the
exposures to multiple chemicals from multiple sources.
As our test results show, short of sending your favourite perfume to a lab for testing, shoppers have
no way of knowing exactly which of the 3,100 fragrance ingredients may be hiding in their beauty
products or even in their child’s baby shampoo. This study focused on several categories of chemicals
– specifically volatile compounds, semi-volatile compounds and synthetic musks. The laboratory
analyses, while thorough, were not exhaustive, which means that additional chemicals of concern
may also be present in the tested products.
Campaign for Safe Cosmetics has documented numerous other products that contain harmful
ingredients and unlabelled contaminants, including lipsticks, nail polish, baby shampoo, sunscreen
and others (Campaign for Safe Cosmetics 2010).
Canada Needs a Strengthened Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist and Improved

Public Disclosure
Comprehensive federal safe cosmetics legislation is necessary to give Health Canada the authority
and resources it needs to ensure cosmetics are free of toxic chemicals. New health-protective policies
are needed to protect the safety and health of Canadians from toxic, untested and unregulated
chemicals in the cosmetics and personal care products we buy every day and should include:
1) A European-style ban on harmful and risky substances. Canada needs to follow Europe
by having a list of prohibited or restricted substances that has clear legal authority. In other
words, the law should be written such that it is clear that using prohibited substances on
the Hotlist in personal care products or improperly using restricted substances on the
Hotlist in personal care products is illegal in Canada. Additionally, the Cosmetic Ingredient
Hotlist should be expanded to include a ban on all substances banned in Europe, and
substances known or suspected to be carcinogenic, mutagenic, reproductive toxicants,
developmental toxicants, neurotoxicants, and hormone disruptors.
2) Complete and prior public disclosure of materials in the products. The government has
to know about everything in cosmetics and personal care products being put on store shelves
before they get there, and the public has the right to know everything that is contained in
products that they put on their bodies. Manufacturers should be required to disclose all
substances, intentional ingredients (including fragrance substances) and unintentional ingre-
dients (including impurities), in their products without exception, and this information should
be found on labels and be freely available online before products hit the market.
Be Just Beautiful
One-time use of fragrances highlighted in this report may not cause harm. But cosmetics and personal
care products are used repeatedly and in combination with other consumer products that can also
contain hazardous chemicals. Research by government agencies, academia and independent
organizations finds widespread human exposure to multiple chemicals (CDC 2009); we are all
regularly exposed to various toxic chemicals from our air, water, food and household products.
People can also be exposed to the same chemical from multiple sources. Here’s what you can do
to protect yourself, your loved ones and future generations from unnecessary exposure to toxic
chemicals in personal care products.
1) Choose products with no added fragrance. By choosing products without fragrance,
you can reduce toxic chemical exposures for yourself and your family. It is important to
read ingredient labels, because even products advertised as “fragrance free” may contain a
masking fragrance. Visit our website, www.environmentaldefence.ca, for tips and resources
to help you find safer products, and to link to EWG’s Skin Deep: www.safecosmetics.org.
2) Less is better. If you are very attached to your fragrance, consider eliminating other
fragranced products from your routine, and using fragrance less often.
3) Help pass smarter, health-protective laws. Buying safer, fragrance-free products is a

great start, but we can’t just shop our way out of this problem. In order for safer products
to be widely available and affordable for everyone, we must pass laws that shift the entire
industry to non-toxic ingredients and safer production. Ask that Health Canada be given
the authority and resources it needs to ensure the safety of cosmetics by visiting
www.environmentaldefence.ca.
4) Demand that cosmetics companies fully disclose ingredients and support those that do.
Tell cosmetics companies that you want them to fully disclose the ingredients in the products
they make – including the chemicals that are hiding under the term “fragrance.” You can find
companies’ toll-free customer hotlines on product packages and online, and calling them
only takes a moment. We’ve provided some helpful talking points on our fragrance report
fact sheet, which you can find online at www.environmentaldefence.ca. Companies need to
hear from you, the potential customer – you have the power to vote with your dollars! In the
meantime, support companies that fully disclose ingredients.
APPENDIX A: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics commissioned tests of 17 brand-name fragrance products targeting a
range of chemicals, including volatile and semi-volatile organic compounds.
In the United States, 13 scent products were purchased: 10 through Amazon.com, two at Long’s Drugs/CVS
in Berkeley, California and one through Abercrombie & Fitch’s website. Four products were purchased in
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada: one at American Eagle Outfitters, two at Sephora and one at Sears.
Unopened products were sent to Analytical Sciences, an independent laboratory in Petaluma, California,
for analysis. The testing methodology is described below.
Methodology for laboratory analysis
The laboratory applied slight modifications to standard United States Environmental Protection Agency
methods EPA 8260 (volatiles) and EPA 8270 (semi-volatiles) for lower and higher boiling point chemical
target compounds. For synthetic musks the following paper was used as a guide to develop a specific
sensitive gas chromatography mass spectroscopy method: A.M. Peck, K.C. Hornbuckle, Environ. Sci. Technol.,
38, p367-372, 2004.
Volatile and semi-volatile organic compounds: Fragrance GC/MS methods:

A measured amount of the commercial product was diluted into a specific amount of solvent and mixed
well. One to five microliters of the solvent was introduced into the gas chromatography mass spectrometer
by either a purge and trap technique or by direct injection. The gas chromatographs were programmed
to separate and identify either volatile organic compounds (boiling point less than 150 degrees C) or semi-
volatile organic compounds (boiling point greater than 150 degrees C).
The mass spectrometers were programmed and optimized to identify priority pollutant compounds listed
by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. Over 150 chemical compounds were investigated.
Commonly recognized commercial standards were used to optimize the gas chromatograph and mass
spectrometer. The compounds investigated are listed in EPA method 8260 and 8270.
Significant chromatographic peaks that were not on the specific target list were identified by a comput-
erized search of the National Bureau of Standards (NBS) Mass Spectral Database containing over 100,000
compounds, by comparing significant peaks identified in testing to the NBS database. Chemicals identified
by the NBS library search are considered to be "tentatively" identified compared to other identifications
from this test program that are confirmed with a specific standard matching the exact mass spectral pattern
and the chromatographic retention time for a compound.
Synthetic musks:
500 milligrams of each sample were weighed to the nearest milligram and diluted into exactly 5 milliliters
of hexane. The diluted samples were mixed well and then injected into a very sensitive gas chromatograph
mass spectrometer (Agilent 7890 / 5975C) optimized to detect six musk target compounds using
selective ion monitoring to achieve the lowest detection limits possible. Standards for the following six
target musks were utilized to optimize and calibrate the GC/MS instrument: Cashmeran (DPMI), Traseolide
(ATII), Galaxolide (HHCB), Tonalide (AHTN), Musk Xylene, Musk Ketone. Results for detected musks were
reported in units of parts per million (ug/gm or ppm). When necessary, dilutions and reruns were made
to move detected compounds into the linear calibration range of the instrument. When dilutions were
used for quantitation, detection limits were increased by the dilution factor.
Methodology for data analysis
The Environmental Working Group analyzed 91 ingredients in 17 tested products by (1) assessing the
ingredients against definitive government, academic and industry datasets on chemical toxicity and
regulation; and (2) reviewing public scientific literature available from the fragrance and cosmetic industry
or contained in the federal government’s PubMed scientific library.
Definitive toxicity and regulatory databases had been previously compiled by EWG researchers in EWG’s
Skin Deep cosmetic safety database (www.cosmeticdatabase.com). These databases summarize scientific
information on known and probable carcinogens; reproductive and developmental toxicants; substances
harmful to the nervous, immune and endocrine systems; bioaccumulative chemicals that persist in the
human body; substances toxic to the environment; chemicals restricted for use in cosmetics and personal
care products; and chemicals regulated by various government agencies. Chemical hazard information
compiled from these databases serves as the basis for product and ingredient scoring as described on
the Skin Deep About page (www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/about.php).
EWG imported data on all ingredients in the tested fragrance products (listed on the label and identified
through testing) into EWG’s Skin Deep database, and then individually reviewed the resulting toxicity
profiles produced by linking Skin Deep’s toxicity and regulatory databases to the product ingredients.
EWG relied on three primary sources to identify the range of sensitizers in tested products: (1) information
published on the website of the International Fragrance Association, (2) peer-reviewed scientific literature
and (3) the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products
(SCCNFP) list of common allergenic substances (publication SCCNFP/0017/98). The EU list includes 24
chemicals and two botanical preparations that are allergens or that form allergenic oxidation products
upon storage. Twenty-two of these EU-recognized 26 sensitizers were found in the products tested in
this study. EWG identified two additional ingredients as potential sensitizers, linalyl acetate and linalyl
anthranilate, which are derivatives of the known sensitizer linalool (also found in the products tested).
In total, EWG identified 24 different sensitizers in the tested products.
For identification of potential hormonal disruptors in tested products, EWG relied on peer-reviewed
scientific publications. EWG identified an initial list of relevant references from the Registry of Toxic
Effects of Chemical Substances (RTECS) databases and from PubMed searches. For the 12 ingredients
identified as having a potential to act as hormonal disruptors, EWG selected 20 publications from the
open scientific literature as offering the best evidence currently available on endocrine toxicity for fragrance
ingredients.
To determine the number of ingredients in the tested products that are associated with voluntary industry
standards in the U.S., EWG analyzed the list of ingredients in fragrance products included in this study
against the list of cosmetics and personal care product chemicals assessed by three industry organizations:
the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel; the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the
Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). Analysis of CIR-reviewed ingredients was based on
the official CIR publication on its website (www.cir-safety.org). Analysis of IFRA-reviewed ingredients
was based on the list of 174 substances that have been banned or restricted by IFRA for use in fragrance
products by IFRA-member companies, as listed on its website (www.ifraorg.org). The list of studies
conducted by the RIFM is not available on its website (www.rifm.org) so EWG conducted a PubMed
search for the query “Research Institute for Fragrance Materials” to determine which fragrance ingredients
RIFM has assessed. For the purposes of this analysis, when an ingredient was not listed on the IFRA
website, but had a corresponding assessment from the RIFM Expert Panel published in the open scientific
literature, we considered this ingredient in our database to have been assessed by IFRA. Assessments
considered in this analysis were those published in the past 25 years.
Following this analysis, EWG identified a total of 35 ingredients in the tested products that have not
been assessed by CIR, IFRA or RIFM. Eleven of these ingredients are listed on the label, including five
sunscreen chemicals whose safety when inhaled from perfume and cologne sprays has not been assessed.
Twenty-five unassessed ingredients were found in laboratory tests but were not disclosed on the label
of at least one product assessed in this study.
EWG conducted a thorough search for safety information on unassessed ingredients, including review of
government databases and peer-reviewed publications indexed in PubMed. Of the 25 ingredients not
disclosed on the label, two ingredients are listed by FDA in the list of substances Generally Recognized
As Safe (GRAS) in food for human consumption, while an additional 13 ingredients are listed by FDA as
synthetic flavouring substances and adjuvants permitted for direct addition to food. Many of these have
not been assessed for safety in cosmetics. Of note, many of the ingredients had minimal toxicity infor-
mation in the publicly available literature, even for bioaccumulative and potentially endocrine-disrupting
chemicals such as synthetic musks.
APPENDIX B: DIETHYL PHTHALATE (DEP) SCIENCE REVIEW
Diethyl phthalate (DEP), a synthetic solvent common in fragrance and other personal care products
(Hubinger 2006), is a ubiquitous pollutant of the human body, found in 97 per cent of Americans tested
by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (Silva 2004). A series of recent epidemiological
studies has associated DEP with a range of health problems, including sperm damage in men (Hauser
2008).
Testing by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics found DEP in 12 of 17 fragrance products tested, in widely
ranging concentrations.
• Tests detected higher levels of DEP in the Calvin Klein brand than any other brand assessed,
with Eternity for Women and Eternity for Men containing 32,000 and 19,000 parts per million
(ppm) of DEP, far above the next highest level (Victoria’s Secret Dream Angels Heavenly, at
15,000 ppm).
• Four of five products for men contained DEP, at levels ranging between 130 ppm (Old Spice
Body Spray) and 19,000 ppm (Calvin Klein Eternity for Men). Of products for men, only AXE
Deodorant Body Spray (Shock) contained no detectable residues of DEP.).
• No detectable amounts of DEP were found in fragrances sold under five brand names: AXE,
Bath & Body Works, Clinique, Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani.
Health concerns related to DEP
In human epidemiological studies, DEP exposure has been linked to adverse effects on the reproductive
system:
• In a study of 168 men recruited from the general population, exposure to DEP was associated
with DNA damage in human sperm (Duty 2003).
• Findings from the multi-center Study for Future Families established a strong correlation
between a mother's exposure to DEP and other phthalates during her pregnancy and
changes to the development of her baby boy's genitals (Swan 2005).
• In a study of 130 Danish and Finish infants, scientists noted an association between the levels
of DEP metabolite in the mother’s breast milk and alterations in levels of male sex hormones in
the baby boys (Main 2006).
• In a group of 379 men seeking care at an infertility clinic, exposure to two phthalates, DEP
and DEHP, was correlated to DNA damage in sperm (Hauser 2007).
• A recent study in Mexico associated high levels of urinary DEP and an elevated risk of breast
cancer (Lopez-Carrillo 2010).
• A study of children ages 4 to 9 years linked children's behavior problems to higher maternal
exposure to low molecular weight phthalates such as DEP (Engel 2010).
Although the human health studies summarized above are small-scale, pilot investigations that need to
be confirmed by follow-up research, their results suggest that exposure to DEP may be linked to adverse
human health effects. In all of these studies, scientists compare the risk or the incidence of certain health
problems with the levels of phthalate metabolites detected in study subjects’ urine (Silva 2003). This
type of study design does not allow scientists to establish definitively if DEP is the cause of the health
problems, but it does provide a highly suggestive correlation.
Unlike other phthalates such as di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP) and di-n-butyl phthalate (DBP), DEP
has not shown significant toxicity in any animal model, despite extensive testing (Api 2001). Studies with
laboratory animals where mice and rats have been fed DEP in their diets did not detect anatomical changes
in the male reproductive system, as established for other phthalates (Howdeshell 2008). However, at
the highest levels of exposure, DEP has been linked to liver abnormalities, elevated cholesterol (Sonde
2000) and birth defects (ATSDR 1995). A study published in 2009 reported that a metabolite of DEP,
monoethyl phthalate, lowered the sperm counts and sperm motility in exposed animals (Kwack 2009).
Scientists have not as yet determined the reason for the difference between DEP effects in humans and
in laboratory animals. Importantly, human exposure is primarily dermal (through the skin), while animal
testing is oral (in the diet). These differences in exposure route may have a significant effect on toxicity
and genetic interspecies variations may also be a contributing factor (Swan 2008).
DEP is found in people’s bodies
Numerous studies have detected the metabolite of DEP (known as MEP) in people’s urine – in males and
females of all ages (Silva 2004). Researchers have also detected DEP in human amniotic fluid samples
collected during the second trimester of pregnancy, indicating that the fetus is exposed to phthalates
during critical windows of hormone-driven development (Silva 2004).
How people are exposed to DEP
DEP can enter the body through skin contact, inhalation or ingestion (Adibi 2003). A survey of 406 men
found that those who had used cologne or aftershave in the previous 48 hours had higher urinary levels of
breakdown products of DEP than those who did not (Duty 2005). More than 90 per cent of 163 babies
studied had breakdown products of DEP and other phthalates in their urine. The infants’ phthalate levels
correlated with their mothers’ reported use of baby lotion, powder and shampoo (Sathyanarayaya 2008).
Reviews of DEP safety
Some phthalates, but not DEP, are banned in the European Union and from toys in the United States.
The International Fragrance Association and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel take the position that
DEP is safe for use in fragrance and cosmetics (CIR 2009a; CIR 2009b; IFRA 2009). These organizations’
assessment of DEP safety has not as yet taken into consideration the recent findings from human
epidemiological studies that suggest increased risk for reproductive damage at current levels of exposure.
The Environmental Protection Agency lists DEP as a priority pollutant under the Clean Water Act (USEPA
2002) and DEP toxicity to aquatic species has been reported (Ghorpade 2002; Liu 2002). In late 2009,
EPA identified phthalates as one of six chemical groups to be considered for regulation as potentially
dangerous substances (USEPA 2009b).
Is DEP in fragrance safe?
The verdict is still out on the safety of DEP. However, the growing body of evidence from human studies
suggests that manufacturers should consider using alternative ingredients until further research proves
DEP safe. Importantly, our analysis shows that it is possible to make fragrance products without DEP.
APPENDIX C:
SCIENCE REVIEW FOR MUSK FRAGRANCES IDENTIFIED IN TESTED PRODUCTS
Synthetic musks are a large, poorly-studied class of chemicals added as scents to cosmetics, including
perfumes, lotions and many other personal care products. The few available studies suggest some of
these compounds may disrupt hormone systems or trigger skin sensitization when exposed to UV light
(photosensitization) (Parker 1986).
Product tests initiated by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics revealed the widespread use of synthetic
musks in perfume, cologne and body sprays. Some of the same musks identified in fragrances have also
been found in the cord blood of newborn babies, as well as in blood, breast milk and body fat (EWG
2009).
Testing by the Campaign found synthetic musks in all 17 fragrance products tested.
• Five different synthetic musk chemicals were detected in the 17 products altogether, including
three that have been detected in umbilical cord blood from newborn babies: musk ketone,
Galaxolide and Tonalide (TNO 2005; EWG 2009).
• Twelve products contained more than one synthetic musk. Two products each contained four
different synthetic musks: Quiksilver and American Eagle Seventy Seven (both purchased in
Canada).
• Galaxolide, in 15 of 17 products, was the most common of all the musks detected. Ethylene
brassylate was next, found in 10 products. Studies show that Galaxolide contaminates cord
blood from U.S. newborns and may interfere with estrogen in the body. The toxicity of ethylene
brassylate and its potential to contaminate the human body is largely unknown. Only three
studies in the open scientific literature (PubMed library) mention the chemical.
Two types of musks have been historically used in fragrances, cosmetics and personal care products:
nitromusks and polycyclic musks. Nitromusks, such as musk ketone, are synthetic scent chemicals whose
structure contains nitrogen. Polycyclic musks such as Galaxolide and Tonalide contain more than one
carbon ring (“cycle”) in their structure. New types of synthetic musks are developed frequently and
substituted for older nitromusks that are being banned or phased out on grounds of toxicity (USEPA
2007; Hutter 2009). Almost no studies exist for some musks now commonly used in fragrance, including
ethylene brassylate.
Musk fragrances are produced in high volumes. Industry reported manufacturing or importing between
1 and 10 million pounds of Galaxolide in 2006 alone (USEPA 2009a). For Tonalide, industry reports indicate
that between 1 and 10 million pounds were imported or manufactured in 1998, the last year for which reports
are available (USEPA 2009a). Due to the ubiquity of these chemicals, environmental studies from areas as
diverse as the Great Lakes, Germany and China document widespread Galaxolide and Tonalide contami-
nation of both fresh and marine water samples, air, wastewater and sludge (Chen 2007; Rudel 2006).
Studies report Galaxolide and Tonalide contamination in many species of wildlife: harbor seals, California
sea lions, river otters, bottlenose dolphins, striped dolphins, pygmy sperm whales, Atlantic sharpnose
shark, mink, common merganser, greater and lesser scaup, mallard and Atlantic salmon (Kannan 2005).
Types of musks found in the tested products
All 17 fragrances included at least one of the polycyclic musks – Galaxolide, Tonalide, Cashmeran – as well
as the macrocyclic musk ethylene brassylate.
Human and environmental health concerns related to musks
Little toxicological information is available about musks currently in commerce. One report links Tonalide
to liver toxicity (Steenberg 1999). But other reports say Galaxolide and Tonalide have low acute toxicity.
For lack of currently available adverse evidence, in 2008, the European Union allowed continued use of
both musks in consumer products (Summary Risk Assessment 2008). However, a number of in vitro studies
with cultured cells suggest that these musks may affect the endocrine system by interfering with estrogen,
androgen and/or progesterone hormone receptors (Seinen 1999; Schreurs 2005). Tonalide has been
identified as a photosensitizer, a chemical that becomes more toxic when exposed to sunlight on the skin
(EU 2008). A number of studies have found musks toxic to aquatic life (Luckenbach 2005; Snell 2009).
What does this mean for people who use fragranced products?
Synthetic musk compounds are persistent environmental pollutants in aquatic environments. Both nitro-
musks and polycyclic musks such as Galaxolide and Tonalide can accumulate in the food chain (Dietrich
2004). The combination of widespread human exposure, environmental contamination and persistence
raises questions about the safety of their widespread use in fragranced products. Reducing the volume
of fragranced products in daily use could make a significant difference to pollution in people and the
environment (Roosens 2007).
Studies on toxicity of synthetic musks Galaxolide and Tonalide:
Synthetic musk compounds are persistent environmental pollutants in aquatic environments. Both nitro-
musks and polycyclic musks such as Galaxolide and Tonalide can accumulate in the food chain (Dietrich
2004). The combination of widespread human exposure, environmental contamination and persistence
raises questions about the safety of their widespread use in fragranced products. Reducing the volume
of fragranced products in daily use could make a significant difference to pollution in people and the
environment (Roosens 2007).
Musks have been found in
people’s bodies, including Endocrine disruption potential
newborns
• Galaxolide and Tonalide can bind to and
EWG tests of umbilical cord blood stimulate human estrogen receptor when
found 7 out of 10 babies had been tested by in vitro methods (Seinen 1999).
born with Tonalide and/or Galaxolide Both musks were also shown to affect the
in their blood. Six of 10 samples androgen and progesterone receptors in
contained Galaxolide, four of 10 reporter gene bioassays (Schreurs 2005).
contained Tonalide and three
contained both musks (EWG 2009).
• Tonalide has been reported to increase the
proliferation of estrogen-responsive human
Several studies have linked personal
breast cancer cells (Bitsch 2002).
care products and elevated body
levels of different musks. A 1996
• In an assay with genetically modified fish,
study found Galaxolide and Tonalide
Galaxolide and Tonalide were shown to
in body fat and breast milk after use
of cosmetics and detergents (Rimkus exert antiestrogenic effects (Schreurs 2004).
1996). Another study detected
Galaxolide in the blood of 91 per cent
of Austrian students. A survey on
routes of exposure linked body lotion
to higher Galaxolide concentrations
(Hutter 2005; 2009). A survey of 101
women found that frequent use of Environmental toxicity
perfume during pregnancy resulted
in elevated concentrations of • Musks have been shown to have high
Galaxolide in breast milk (Lignell acute toxicity to fish, especially in the early
2008). life stages (Yamauchi 2008). Musks also
interfere with important detoxification
Blood tests conducted in Austria enzymes in fish (Schnell 2009).
detected Galaxolide in 89 per cent of
53 women over the age of 50 and
• Low concentrations of Tonalide, Galaxolide
associated Galaxolide concentration
and other musks strongly inhibited larval
with frequent use of perfumes,
development in common species of
deodorants and shampoos. In their
crustaceans (Wollenberger 2003).
publication, the Austrian researchers
posit: “These findings could be due
• Exposure of marine mussels to musks
to the higher use of lotions and
crèmes on face and hands and a reduced the mussel’s ability to protect
more frequent use of skin care prod- itself from pollutants (Luckenbach 2005)
ucts because older persons reported and suppressed the growth rate in the larvae
more frequently dry skin. In addition, and juveniles (Gooding 2006).
physiological aging related changes
might be responsible for higher der-
mal absorption of synthetic musks.”
(Hutter 2010)
APPENDIX D: SECRET CHEMICALS DETECTED IN PRODUCT TESTING
Secret ingredients (found in product testing; not listed on labels):

Source: Environmental Working Group analysis of product labels, product tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and the open scientific literature
Ingredient How What is this chemical? Is public safety data available?

many
products
contain
it?
Hedione 16 Synthetic fragrance ingredient, Only one published toxicity study

one of the most commonly used in is found in the online science
perfumes and colognes, with a library PubMed, a developmental
jasmine smell. More than 1,000 toxicity study conducted by the
metric tons of hedione is used New Jersey-based Research
every year worldwide. Institute for Fragrance Materials,
which reported no gross malforma-
tions of rat pups exposed to high
doses in utero (Politano 2008).
Myrcene 16 A naturally occurring and synthe- Ingredient listed in the FDA's “Food
tically produced scent and flavouring additives permitted for direct
chemical, used extensively as an addition to food for human con-
intermediate for production of sumption” (21CFR 172.515). Myrcene,
many fragrance ingredients. especially when oxidized upon air
exposure, can be an irritant and a
weak sensitizer. Recently completed
2-year study by the National Toxi-
cology Panel found that myrcene
had carcinogenic activity in labora-
tory animals (Kohicheskia 2007;
Matura 2005; NTP 2009).
Galaxolide 15 A synthetic polycyclic musk, also Studies of Galaxolide are limited to

known by its chemical name laboratory hormone assays and
abbreviation, HHCB. tests for the presence of the chem-
ical in the environment and people.
Galaxolide has been reported to
interfere with estrogen and androgen
(male) hormones. Galaxolide is bio-
accumulative (builds up in the adipose
tissue) and has been found in the
bodies of humans, in breast milk
and in wildlife (van der Burg 2008).
3,7-dimethyl-1,3, 14 A variant (isomer) of the fragrance No public safety data identified.

7-octatriene and flavouring ingredient ocimene, a Ingredient listed in the FDA's list of
naturally-occurring scent chemical “Food additives permitted for direct
found in essential oils and produced addition to food for human
by industrial chemical synthesis. consumption” (21CFR 172.515).
Linalyl 13 An ester of the common fragrance Ingredient listed in the FDA's “Food
anthranilate ingredient and known sensitizer additives permitted for direct addition
linalool. to food for human consumption”
(21CFR 172.515). Public safety data
limited to sensitization studies.
Oxidation of linalool esters upon
storage and air exposure leads to
formation of allergenic oxidation
products (Hagvall 2008).
many
products
contain
it?
Diethyl phthalate 12 A fragrance solvent commonly used Diethyl phthalate has been tested for
at high concentrations in perfumes reproductive system impacts and
and colognes. estrogenic activity. The chemical is
associated with effects on the repro-
ductive system in human epidemio-
logical studies, including sperm
damage (Hubinger 2008).
Linalyl acetate 11 An ester of the common fragrance Ingredient listed in the FDA's list of
ingredient and known sensitizer substances "Generally Recognized As
linalool. Safe” (21CFR 186.20). Public safety
data limited to sensitization studies.
Oxidation of linalool esters upon
storage and air exposure leads to
formation of allergenic oxidation
products (Hagvall 2008).
Gamma-terpinene 11 A naturally occurring and synthe- Ingredient listed in the FDA's “Food
tically produced scent and flavouring additives permitted for direct addition
chemical, found in many essential to food for human consumption”
oils (Chizzzola 2008). (21CFR 172.515).
p-cymene 11 A naturally occurring and syntheti- Ingredient listed in the FDA's “Food
(paracymene) cally produced scent and flavouring additives permitted for direct addition
chemical; used in manufacture of to food for human consumption”
musks. Known under the names (21CFR 172.515). Inhalation exposure
p-cymene and p-isopropyl-toluene. associated with neurotoxicity (reduced
density and number of synapses) in
laboratory animals (Bohl 1999).
2,6-dimethyl-7- 10 A synthetic solvent and a masking Recent industry review of dihydro-

octen-2-ol ingredient that does not occur in myrcenol reported irritation but lack
nature; commonly included in clean- of sensitization associated with this
ing and deodorizing (air freshener) ingredient. Minimal developmental
products. Also known under its toxicity reported; no studies on
trade name dihydromyrcenol. mutagenicity, genotoxicity or carcino-
genicity conducted (Ham 2009).
Ethylene 10 A macrocyclic musk ingredient, also Ingredient listed in the FDA's “Food
brassylate known under the trade name Musk T. additives permitted for direct addition
to food for human consumption”
(21CFR 172.515). Only three studies on
this ingredient found in PubMed.
Ethylene brassylate has been reported
to induce biochemical changes in skin
cells, but no genotoxicity or estro-
genicity (Abramsson-Zetterberg
2002; Bitsch 2002; Kim 2006).
2-tert-butyl 9 A scent ingredient (US Patent 1988). No toxicity studies identified in

cyclohexanol PubMed.
t-butyl alcohol 8 A common solvent and denaturant; No safety studies identified in open
also used as a flavor ingredient. scientific literature. FDA lists this com-
pound among “Food additives permit-
ted for direct addition to food for
human consumption” (21CFR 172.515).
many
products
contain
it?
Hexyl acetate 7 A scent ingredient and a synthetic No safety studies identified in open
flavouring agent. scientific literature. FDA lists this
compound among “Food additives
permitted for direct addition to food
for human consumption” (21CFR
172.515).
Cis-2,6-dimethyl- 7 Decomposition product from other No toxicity studies identified in

2,6-octadiene scent ingredients (Hattori 2004). PubMed.
Alpha-pinenes 6 Naturally found in oils from pines FDA lists this compound among
and other conifers; also produced “Food additives permitted for direct
synthetically; commonly used as addition to food for human consum-
scent ingredient in a wide range of ption” (21CFR 172.515). Inhalation
consumer products. exposure to high concentrations
associated with irritation of the
respiratory airways. Alpha-pinenes
oxidize upon air exposure to oxygen,
forming potent respiratory irritants
(Neuenschwander 2010; Nielsen
2005; Rohr 2002; Venkatachari 2008).
Cashmeran 6 A synthetic polycyclic musk, also Cashmeran has been reported to

known by its chemical name have estrogen-like activity in
abbreviation DPMI. in laboratory experiments with
cultured cells, but no genotoxicity
(Keuekordes 1997; Mori 2007).
Isopropyl
myristate
6
* A thickening agent and an emollient. Enhances skin penetration and
absorption of other ingredients; has
been associated with allergic contact
dermatitis (Bharati 2004; Panigrahi
2005).
Phenethyl alcohol 6 A flavor ingredient found in essential FDA lists the compound among
oils and produced synthetically. “Food additives permitted for direct
addition to food for human con-
sumption” (21CFR 172.515).
Benzyl acetate 5 A scent chemical and a flavouring FDA lists the compound among
agent that occurs naturally in “Food additives permitted for
essential oils and is also produced direct addition to food for human
synthetically. consumption” (21 CFR 172.515).
Benzyl acetate has been reported to
cause mutations and have carcino-
genic activity in some animal studies
(NTP 1993).
Tonalide 5 A synthetic polycyclic musk also Has been reported to interfere with
known by its chemical name abbre- estrogen and androgen (male)
viation, AHTN. hormones. Tonalide is bioaccumulative
(builds up in the adipose tissue) and
has been found in the bodies of
humans, in breast milk and in wildlife
(van der Berg 2008).
many
products
contain
it?
Trans-beta-ionone 5 In a group of scent chemicals called Several ionones, including beta-

ionones, found in essential oils such ionone, are approved by FDA for use
as rose oil and also produced synthe- as direct food additives (21CFR
tically. Extensively used as fragrance 172.515). Alpha-ionone, a structurally
and flavouring ingredients. similar chemical, is a recognized
consumer allergen. Two recent
industry reports on ionone toxicity
noted the absence of chronic toxicity
and carcinogenicity studies for the
entire group of ionones (Lalko 2007;
RIFM 2007).
Limonene 3
* A fragrance chemical and flavouring
ingredient derived from citrus peel;
Ingredient listed in the FDA's list of
substances "Generally Recognized
also used as a solvent in cleaning As Safe” (21CFR 182.60). Upon storage
products and degreasers. and air exposure, limonene breaks
down to form potent sensitizers.
Listed by the European Union as one
of the known consumer allergens
(EC 1999; Karlberg 1997; Topham 2003).
Terpineol 3 A scent ingredient and a flavouring FDA lists the compound among
agent. “Food additives permitted for direct
addition to food for human consump-
tion” (21CFR 172.515). Studies in the
open scientific literature are focused
primarily on sensitization; studies on
chronic toxicity, reproductive toxicity
or carcinogenicity have not been
done (Bhatia 2008).
Alpha-cedrene 3 A scent ingredient. No studies on alpha-cedrene toxicity

have been identified in PubMed. A
related compound, acetyle cedrene,
has been associated with allergic
contact dermatitis (Handley 1994;
Lapczynski 2006).
Heliotropine 3 A synthetic chemical with a vanilla Known phototoxin (Tenenbaum 1984).

smell and flavour. Also called Piper- FDA lists the compound among
onal. No studies on alpha-cedrene. “Food additives permitted for direct
addition to food for human con-
sumption" (21CFR 182.60).
Eugenol 2
* Scent chemical that occurs naturally
in clove oil.
A known sensitizer; listed by the
European Union as one of most
frequently reported consumer
allergens in fragrances (EC 1999).
Listed by FDA among substances
"Generally Recognized As Safe”
(21CFR 184.1257).
Lilial 2
* Synthetic scent chemical also known
under the name butylphenyl
A skin sensitizer; listed by the Euro-
pean Union as one of most frequently
methylpropional. reported consumer allergens in fra-
grances (EC 1999). Listed by FDA
among substances "Generally Recog-
nized As Safe” (21CFR 184.1257).
many
products
contain
it?
Dimethylbenzyl 2 A scent ingredient; commonly used No toxicity studies for this compound
carbinyl butyrate as flavouring agent. have been identified in PubMed. FDA
lists the compound among “Food
additives permitted for direct addition
to food for human consumption”
(21CFR 172.515).
Octinoxate
*
1 A UV absorber and common
sunscreen chemical.
Associated with adverse impact on
the endocrine system (estrogen and
thyroid hormones). May cause pho-
toallergic effects (Klammer 2007;
Rodriguez 2006).
Benzyl salicylate
*
1 A scent chemical and a UV absorber. Listed by the European Union as
one of the most frequently reported
and well-recognized consumer aller-
gens (EC 1999). FDA allows the use
of this compound as a direct food
additive (21CFR 172.515).
Dihydro-alpha- 1 A scent ingredient, found in pine oil; Published literature limited to irritation
terpinol also known as dihydro-alpha- and sensitization studies. No studies
terpineol. available on chronic, developmental
and reproductive toxicity or carcino-
genicity (Bhatia 2008).
Anethole 1 A scent ingredient and a flavouring FDA lists this compound among
agent. substances "Generally Recognized
As Safe” (21CFR 182.60), despite
reports of liver toxicity and possible
liver carcinogenicity (Marshall 1996;
Newberne 1999).
Butyl acetate 1 A solvent and synthetic flavouring FDA lists the compound among
ingredient. “Food additives permitted for direct
addition to food for human consum-
ption” (21CFR 172.515). Inhalation
exposure has been associated with
irritation, systemic toxicity and
degeneration of the olfactory
epithelium (David 2001).
Isododecane 1 A volatile hydrocarbon used as solvent No toxicity studies identified in

and emollient in cosmetics (CosIng). PubMed.
Isoamyl butyrate 1 A scent ingredient and synthetic FDA lists the compound among
flavouring agent. “Food additives permitted for direct
addition to food for human
consumption” (21CFR 172.515). No
toxicity studies identified in PubMed.
Diethyl succinate 1 A naturally occurring volatile FDA lists the compound among “Food
chemical; used as solvent in additives permitted for direct addi-
fragrance formulations. tion to food for human consumption”
(21CFR 172.515). Acts as a permeation
enhancer (Takahashi 2002). No tox-
icity studies identified in PubMed.
many
products
contain
it?
Musk ketone 1 A synthetic nitromusk Musk ketone accumulates in the

bodies of people and in the environ-
ment; has been associated with
estrogenic effects (Bitsch 2002;
TNO 2005).
✱ = Asterisk identifies ingredients that were disclosed on the label for some of the tested products. For these ingredients, the number
listed in the column “How many products contain it?” is the number of products that did not disclose this ingredient on the label.
Source: Environmental Working Group analysis of product labels, product tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, and the open scientific literature
APPENDIX E: COMPANIES THAT FULLY DISCLOSE INGREDIENTS
As of April 5, 2010, the following companies have fully disclosed all ingredients – including fragrance – on
their ingredient labels and on EWG’s Skin Deep Cosmetics Database as part of their commitment to the
Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge of safety and transparency administered by the Campaign for
Safe Cosmetics. Learn more by visiting www.safecosmetics.org/compact.
A Mano Bath Binda Baby Essentials Dr. Bronner's Magic Soap

Acquarella LLC Bloomin' Cosmetics Earth Mama Angel Baby
Advanced Cosmetic Body Sense EO Products/Small World
Technologies Bombastic Aromatics Trading Co Inc.
African Earth Skincare Botanical Skin Works Edamame, Inc.
Afterglow Cosmetics, Inc. Bottoms Up Pty Ltd Eden's Kiss
Aguacate & Co. Buddha Nose Ltd Elemental Herbs
Alchemilla Bum Boosa Bamboo Baby Elements Naturals
Alexami Cosmetics Wipes Elysian Dream
Alima Cosmetics, Inc. CNaturals, Inc. Emily Skin Soothers, Inc
Alvin Connor Ltd California Baby Enfusia-Cocoon
Amurie Castle Baths Enkido
Apala Beauty Cedar Spring Herb Farm Erth Minerals
Apriori Beauty Chagrin Valley Soap and Craft Essence of Wellbeing
Arganat Inc. Chartreuse, Inc. Eve Organics
Aroma 1 Classy Minerals Ferro Cosmetics
Aromaland Inc. CleanWell Company Florence Quesnel
Aubrey Organics, Inc. Clovertree Apothecary Aromatherapie
Aurora Nova, LLC Coastal Classic Creations French Transit, Ltd
Ava Anderson NonToxic Cocoon Apothecary For My Kids
Avalon Organics Colorganics, Inc Garden Girl Natural Skin Care
Awa Skin Care Consonant Body Organic Garden of Eve
B.SOAPURE LLC Skincare Generation to Generation
BABYBEARSHOP, LLC Cosmetics Without Synthetics Glam-Nation, LLC
BECAUSE Skin Care, LLC Cosmic Tree Essentials Ltd. Glengarry Gardens
Babo Botanicals Cotton Creek Soap and Gluten Free Beauty
Sundries Golden Earth Inc.
Bare Organics Inc.
Daily Essence Good for You Girls
Bath By Bettijo LLC
Dancing Dingo Luxury Soap Green Beauty Cosmetics
Beauté Minéral
Dermaviduals USA Greenbody Greenplanet
Beaute Club
Destiny Boutique HCGCoach.com LLC
Belle's Botanicals
Divine Minerals Herbaliz
Belli Cosmetics
Divine Response
Beyond Coastal
Doctor T's Supergoop! continued on next page…
Herban Lifestyle Mountain Girl Botanics, Ltd. Shea Butter Market
Hippy Heaven Natural Beauty MuLondon Natural Organic Shea-Janee
Holistic Body Care Skincare Silver Unicorn Spirit Gifts
Infantbows, LLC Musq Skin LLC
Inika My Lip Stuff Skin QR Organics
Innocent Oils My Mama's Love SkinGenX
Intelligent Nutrients NONTOXIQUE BEAUTY, LLC Soap for Goodness Sake
Iredale Mineral Cosmetics, Ltd. Naked Soapworks Sun Putty
JaDora Cosmetics Natural Family Botanicals SunCat Natural Mineral Makeup
Jes Collection Health & Beauty, Natural Formulations SunnyWipes
LLC Natural Resource Group Sweetsation Therapy
Jess' Bee Natural NaturalCurls Swissclinical
Jiade Organic Cosmetics Nature's Baby Organics Symmetry Skin Quenchers
Karen's Botanicals Nature's Boundaries TawnaHillBaby
Keys, Inc. Nature's Pharma Tea Naturals Skin Care
Khushi Spa Products Naturity LLC Terressentials
LUVU Beauty Naturoli The Merry Hempsters
La Vie Celeste Naturopathica Holistic Health Trillium Herbal Company
Lalabee Bathworks Nine Naturals Trukid
Lash Advance Novena Cosmeceuticals Inc U.P. Bathworks
Lauren Brooke Mineral Nurture My Body UV Natural International PTY
Cosmetiques Nuvo Cosmetics LTD
Les Parfums d'Isabelle Oblige by Nature UrbanDetox
Lily Organics, Inc. Over the Rainbow Lotions & Verdure Botanoceuticals Skin
Little Forest Natural Baby Notions Care
Products PROVIN Cosmeceuticals Vysada Inc. Ayurvedic Natural
Live Native Pangea Naturals, Inc. Skin Care
Longhairlovers/ICP Corp. Paul Penders Company W.S. Badger Company
Loriannz Pharmacopia Welstar
Loving Naturals Phat Organics/Aloha Products Whole Truth Holistic Health
MOM Enterprises, Inc. Solutions
Pink Quartz Minerals
MadeOn Lotion Bars Wholistic, Inc
Planet Botanicals
Maia's Mineral Galaxy XANGO, LLC
Poof's Closet
MammaMichal Freshly Made All Yellowstone Bees Inc.
Pristine Recovery
Natural Body Care Products Zoe Organics
Pure Anada Cosmetics
Marie Veronique Organics Zosimos Botanicals, LLC
Purple Prairie Botanicals
Max Green Alchemy Ltd. free of, inc.
RJ Mineral Cosmetics
Meadowlake Farm Honeybee ibody science
Products LLC Rejuva Minerals
lolo levu
MendMeShop SAXX Mineral Makeup and
Organics non toxic skin care
Mexitan Products radiantLIFE
Salon Naturals, LLC
MineralFace FX rms beauty
Samantharoma LLC
Mixaroma Inc suki pure skin care
Sensibility Soaps, Inc.
Monet Minerals the formulaah
Serenity Skincare
MoniMay, Inc. thinkbaby and thinksport
Shan Image Consulting
Morning Indigo, LLC Weleda
SheAyurvedics Skin Care
Motherlove Herbal Company
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The health risks of secret

ABOUT THE CAMPAIGN FOR SAFE COSMETICS

• Secret chemicals: Laboratory tests revealed 38 secret chemicals in 17 name-brand products,

• Multiple hormone disruptors: A total of 12 different hormone-disrupting chemicals were

Results at a glance for all fragrance ingredients combined (disclosed on label or

Chemical ingredients 29 40..........Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio

Secret chemicals 14 24 ..........American Eagle Seventy Seven

Sensitizing chemicals 10 19............Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio

Hormone disruptors 4 7 ..............Halle by Halle Berry, Quiksilver,

Chemicals not assessed 12 16 Coco Mademoiselle Chanel,

Note: Products purchased in Canada are highlighted in red.

musks. The laboratory analyses, while 50%

SECTION 1: Percentage of chemicals not assessed for safety by fragrance

ingredients in personal care products,

Of 38 undisclosed chemicals in the 17 fragrance products assessed:

• 10 undisclosed chemicals lack any public toxicity information whatsoever in published

• 9 undisclosed chemicals are potential sensitizers or contact allergens, based on laboratory

• 6 undisclosed chemicals are potential hormone disruptors based on published laboratory

continued on next page…

Popular fragrances contain 14 secret chemicals on average

In 2007, the American Contact Dermatitis Society

— American Contact Dermatitis Society 2010

What Was Found

• Altogether, the 17 products assessed contained 24 chemicals classified as sensitizers or

Bath & Body

Quiksilver (for men) 13

Victoria's Secret Dream

Dolce & Gabbana

Old Spice After

including an increased risk of cancer, especially breast (Breast

What Was Found

Halle by Halle Berry 7

Detected in product testing or listed on ingredient label

Note: Products purchased in Canada are highlighted in red.

• Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) - found in 7 products tested for this report - is a

• Oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) - found in 1 product tested for this report - is a sunscreen

Table 3: HORMONE SYSTEM AFFECTED

Octinoxate (octyl methoxycinnamate) ✔✱ ✱

SECTION 5: SAFER PRODUCTS AND SMARTER LAWS

Canada Needs a Strengthened Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist and Improved

3) Help pass smarter, health-protective laws. Buying safer, fragrance-free products is a

Methodology for laboratory analysis

Volatile and semi-volatile organic compounds: Fragrance GC/MS methods:

Methodology for data analysis

Health concerns related to DEP

DEP is found in people’s bodies

How people are exposed to DEP

Reviews of DEP safety

Is DEP in fragrance safe?

Types of musks found in the tested products

Human and environmental health concerns related to musks

Studies on toxicity of synthetic musks Galaxolide and Tonalide:

Secret ingredients (found in product testing; not listed on labels):

Ingredient How What is this chemical? Is public safety data available?

Hedione 16 Synthetic fragrance ingredient, Only one published toxicity study

Galaxolide 15 A synthetic polycyclic musk, also Studies of Galaxolide are limited to

3,7-dimethyl-1,3, 14 A variant (isomer) of the fragrance No public safety data identified.