TREK & MOUNTAIN 96 - Jan.-Febr.2020

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S sn St
Lild a es; 40 WINTER GEAR
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I Bu d lin s p GUIDE!
K
S O... xe sea All the essential kit rounded
T fi er up + the six items that could
W Use ov save your life p74
O
H le; afe
ho s
CMD ARETE
AND 9 OTHER AMAZING WINTER RIDGES TO TRY P26
PLUS
MAKALU BASE CAMP TREK
WILL COPESTAKE INTERVIEW
ACONCAGUA PROFILE
ISSUE 96
JAN/FEB 2020
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THE TEAM
Editor/Publisher
Chris Kempster
(chris@trekandmountain.com)
Art Editor
Kevin Lowery
(kev@trekandmountain.com)
Sub Editor
Amanda Travis
(amanda@trekandmountain.com)
Mountaineering Editor
Will Harris
(will@trekandmountain.com)
Gearhead Editor
Jon Doran
(jon@trekandmountain.com)
Technical Editor
Alun Richardson
(alun@trekandmountain.com
CONTRIBUTORS
Editorial
James Cruikshank, Kathi Habermann, Welcome to our winter even more! And what better you that bit safer when heading
Will Harris, Pete Hill, Will Legon,
W.H.Murray, Alun Richardson, Paul
special – and the irst way to spend days like these out into the cold. Elsewhere in
Smith issue of the new decade! This than on one of Scotland’s many the issue we have an interview
Photography winter has been pretty patchy magniicent ridges, such as the with former Scottish
Will Copestake, James Cruikshank,
Kathi Habermann,
so far – both at home in the UK CMD Arete (p26) or one of the Adventurer of the Year, Will
Alun Richardson and in the Alps – but this only nine other ridges we’ve chosen Copestake (p52), an excerpt
Cover image makes it even more special on in this month’s cover feature? from W.H.Murray’s
Alun Richardson
days when it all comes together. The lipside of winter, of autobiography on page 18, and
Printing
Stephens & George There’s nothing better than course, is that the risk factor an account of a trek to Makalu
Distribution when the sky is blue, the snow increases signiicantly, so we’ve Base Camp on page 60.
Warners is crisp, and your route affords included some skills that could Enjoy the issue and stay safe!
Licensing enquiries
licensing@trekandmountain.com you stunning views of the prove vital in our Skills section
surrounding mountains, and (p40) and a run-down of all the
because you’ve battled the essential kit you need in the
Thanks to...
Vertebrate Publishing, Will Copestake, elements on so many other winter mountains on page 74 Chris Kempster
Will Legon at will4adventure.com days, you appreciate these days – hopefully this will help make Editor/Publisher
VISIT US ONLINE
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©Copyright 2020
Trek & Mountain W.H MURRAY ALUN RICHARDSON WILL LEGON trekandmountain.com
W.H.Murray (1913-1996) A British Mountain A hugely experienced
While every effort is made to ensure the advice
was a mountaineer and Guide for over 30 years, outdoor instructor, Will POST: Trek & Mountain
and information printed in this publication is
accurate, the publishers cannot be held liable
writer who was most
active before the Second
Alun has led treks and
expeditions all around
runs a range of outdoor
courses including rock
Subscriptions, Select
for any damage of any nature arising from the World War and took part the world. He was part climbing, navigation and Publisher Services Ltd,
information printed or by the activities in several Himalayan of the successful irst aid, as well as leading
undertaken by readers of the magazine. expeditions in the 50s. He Gurkha Everest overseas treks from PO Box 6337,
later campaigned for Expedition in 2017, and he Europe to South America.
protecting Scotland’s is also in demand as an Find out more at www.
Bournemouth BH1 9EH
wilderness areas. outdoors photographer. will4adventure.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 3
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Inside January/February 2020
Features Carn Mor

18 The Evidence of
Things Not Seen
In an extract from his
26 Dearg Arete
autobiography, W.H.Murray
describes crossing the Khumbu
Icefall for the first time in 1951
26 Cover Feature: Carn

Mor Dearg Arete
Alun Richardson describes a
winter traverse of one of the very
finest ridges in Britain
52 The Interview:
Will Copestake
We speak to the Scottish
adventurer about trekking and
kayaking in Patagonia, Iceland,
New Zealand and the Highlands
60 Makalu Base Camp 52

With teahouses now available
on the route, a trek to Makalu
Base Camp is a great option for
independent trekkers, according
to Kathi Habermann and James
Cruikshank
60 18
winter, including recommendations
Gear for specific makes/models of kit
72
84 Tested: Petzl Nomic
70 Gear News Will Harris tries out the latest
The latest stories from the world of version of Petzl’s popular ice and
outdoor clothing and equipment mixed climbing axes
72 First Look: Rab 84 Tested: Mountain

Ladakh GTX Jacket Hardwear Alpine Light 35
Jon Doran tries out a versatile new Amanda Travis shoulders a highly-
Gore-Tex mountain shell from Rab spec’d mountain pack
74 Gear Guide: Winter 85 Tested: Montane

Mountaineering Prism Jacket
Will Harris gives a run down on Chris Kempster dons an update of
all the kit you need for the British the classic insulation piece
85 Tested: Alpkit 86 Six of the Best: Winter

Jeanius Jeans Survival Gear
Chris Kempster kicks back We choose six essential items for
84 85 74 with some comfy trousers for

bouldering and casual use
staying warm and safe in winter
conditions
Inside January/February 2020
Regulars 16
10 Trailhead
Our action-packed front section,
including: Fjällräven Classic UK,
Exped News, and Talks & Events
16 Summit
Send in your best mountain pix for a
chance to win a great prize
24 Subscribe
Subscribe to Trek & Mountain and
receive a free Leatherman multi-tool
38 Trek Directory
Trekking and expedition companies
to consider for your next trip
88 Back Issues
Missed an issue? Complete your
Trek & Mountain collection here 90 10
89 Next Month
A sneak peak inside the next
edition of Trek & Mountain
90 Peak Profile: Aconcagua

Profile of the highest peak in the
Southern and Western Hemispheres
40 42 46
40 Knowledge: 42 Trek Basics: Part 3 46 Masterclass: Snow
Climbing on fixed ropes – Staying safe Holes & Shelters
On some expeditions you’ll be Will Legon continues his series The ability to make a snow hole
required to ascend and descend with a look at what you can do to or snow shelter could literally
fixed ropes – here’s our guide to avoid trouble, and what to do in save your life in winter – here
doing it safely... the case where you can’t we show you some options
6 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020
“There is nothing ahead, beside,
or behind me. Only the ground
underneath my feet and the sound of
my laboured breath as I pump my legs
up the mountain, now with no way of
knowing how far it is to the top.”
JON GUPTA | Alpine Athlete
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NEWS • EVENTS • OPINION • BOOKS & FILMS
FJÄLLRÄVEN
CLASSIC
COMES TO UK
Swedish outdoor brand’s trekking event will
be held on 9-11th July in the Cairngorms
2020 will be an exciting year for Fjällräven journey won’t always be easy, but the sense
as the Swedish brand hosts the irst ever of achievent participants will enjoy when
Classic UK in Scotland’s wild and awe- reaching the end will make it well worth the
inspiring, Cairngorms National Park. Taking effort. With everything you need on your
place this summer from the 9th–11th of back, it’s a chance to live simply, walk at
July, the new route is part of an initiative by your own pace and reconnect with nature.
the brand to extend its legendary Classic As with all Classic events, Fjällräven will
trekking events across the globe and support participants to make the most
enable outdoor enthusiasts all over the of their trip. There will be experts at
world to discover the joys of being out various checkpoints along the route
in nature. where walkers can get advice, restock
Fjällräven’s passion for trekking is real. with food and gas and even enjoy the odd
What essentially started with Fjallraven treat. With the logistics taken care of,
founder Åke Nordin inviting groups of people participants are able to enjoy and make
to experience the outdoors with his new the most of this incredibly memorable
functional, durable clothes and equipment trek of a lifetime.
in the 1970s, stayed with the brand, Tickets for Classic UK will go on sale on
developed and grew to become the irst 23rd January at 9am. As places are limited,
Fjällräven Classic event in Sweden 2005. people will have 12 hours on the 23rd to
Since then, the event has expanded and now register their interest after which tickets
eight Classic events across the world will see will be randomly assigned and those
thousands of nature-lovers strapping on selected will receive an email with a link
their backpack and experiencing the joy of a to buy tickets. Tickets not purchased
self-supported, multi-day trekking within 12 hours of the email being sent
adventure. will then be offered to the next person on
Held in one of the UK’s most remote and the list.
dramatic landscapes, the Classic UK aims to Trek & Mountain was lucky to attend the
demonstrate that you don’t need to travel Classic in Sweden in 2015, and if the UK
far and wide to spend time outdoors. The event is anything like as friendly, well-
event’s 60km route is one of contrasts. organised and well-supported as the
Stretching from the manicured parklands of Swedish event, it will be a huge success.
Blair Castle in Perthshire, through dense Good luck everyone!
woodlands and into steep valleys
surrounded by some of Scotland’s most More info on the Fjällräven Classic UK at
iconic mountains. Finishing at Glenmore, the https://classic.jallraven.com/uk/
TRAILHEAD EXPEDITION NEWS
EXPEDITION NEWS
SUCCESS IN PATAGONIA AND

HIMALAYAN WINTER UPDATES
Mammut Pro Team athletes Stephan is looking to complete what he considers to be
Siegrist and Nicolas Hojac have the irst true winter ascent of Broad Peak. The
completed the irst ascent of the northeast irst winter climb took place in March 5, 2012,
face of Cerro Cachet in Patagonia. The peak but Urubko believes that a climb must be
has only been climbed twice before, and never completed by 28th February – the
by the northeast face. Siegrist and Hojac meteorological end of the winter season – in
rated the most dificult part of the mixed order to count as a winter climb. So far,
route M7+. the team have reached 6650m. There is a
Alex Txikon, together with a large team, possibility that he may head to K2 after
reached base camp at the foot of Ama Dablam Broad Peak.
(6848m) and are now preparing to start the Simone Moro and Tamara Lungar have
climb, weather permitting. The climbers and a oficially ended their expedition to
trekking group reached base camp at 4600m, Gasherbrum I in the Karakoram. The team
safe and healthy, after enjoying six days of had planned to climb Gasherbrum I, descend to
trekking in great weather. Contrary to Alex’s the Gasherbrum La, and possibly head to
previous winter expeditions up the Khumbu Siegrist and Hojac Gasherbrum II if conditions permitted.
valley, they have found the trail covered in snow on Cerro Cachet However, after Lungar successfully crossed a
from Namche Bazaar, at about 3400m. The crevasse in the iceields at the base of the
snow-covered terrain has allowed Alex and the mountain, the snow bridge collapsed under
team to put into practice one of the lessons is Jost Kobusch who is attempting to solo Moro’s feet causing him to fall 20 feet into the
learnt last winter on K2. “In just four hours, the West Ridge without supplementary crevasse. Lungar was pulled to the edge of the
we’ve built an igloo for the night,” Alex oxygen and no Sherpa support. He is back crevasse, and with the rope wrapped around
announced. “They are not so easy to build, but at base camp after reaching the Lho La Pass her hand – causing excruciating pain – she was
I’d say we’re kind of experts by now.” He said, at 6146m. able to hold him while he secured an ice screw,
“While some of our climbing mates shivered as Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal team preventing them both from falling deep into the
the night fell, we enjoyed a constant -2 degrees are attempting K2 with no Os. In the last crevasse. Moro was able to free himself after
C inside the igloo.” update from Mingma, they had arrived at Broad two hours, after which they returned to base
Txikon is planning on climbing Ama Dablam, Peak base camp, taking longer than expected camp where they were both evacuated by a
then heading to Everest for his third attempt of due to deep snow. The team were heading to Pakistani military helicopter to Skardu for
a winter summit. Also attempting Everest K2 base camp the following day. Denis Urubko medical checks.
GADGET OF THE MONTH
PowerTraveller Kestrel 40 £99 WHAT WE LIKE?

No-one likes carrying
more devices than they
WHAT WE
DON’T LIKE?
Although the Kestrel 40
A solar panel/battery combo for the outdoors HOW DOES IT need to when on a trek or feels well-made and
WORK? expedition (or even a capable of standing up to a
WHAT IS IT? There are two ways to weekend away) so having fair bit of abuse, you must
The PowerTraveller charge up the Kestrel’s a combined battery and be a bit aware of dust and
Kestrel 40 combines battery: either via the solar panel is a deinite water ingression, as the
a 12-watt foldable solar panel, which has a boon. The Kestrel 40 is unit has an IPX6 rating
solar panel with a handy stand for inding also impressively rather than the IPX7 rating
10,000mAh the best angle to harvest compact, with its slim of stablemates such as the
battery in a the sun’s rays; or via a depth in particular – Extreme solar panel and
compact mini-USB to USB lead even when folded – battery. It can deal with
package that which plugs into your making it easier to pack splashes of water but
weighs a bit computer or USB wall than a chunky battery. don’t submerge it or else
over half a plug. There are four LEDs The four eyelets and two you risk permanent
kilo and has which show you how supplied karabiners damage to the unit.
a footprint much charge is in the enable you to attach it to
of 260mm x 155mm battery, and charging up your pack for charging WHERE TO GET IT?
(folded). It offers two 5V your devices is as easy on the move, and the The Kestrel 40 is available
USB outputs and can GPS units, headtorches, as plugging them into dual USB outputs mean to purchase online at the
charge devices such as action cameras and one of the Kestrel’s two you can charge two manufacturer’s website:
smartphones, tablets, more. USB ports. devices at once. www.powertraveller.com
MOUNTAIN BOOTS
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TRAILHEAD TALKS & EVENTS
TALKS & EVENTS
Edinburgh Mountain Kendal Mountain

Film Festival Festival Film & Speaker
February 15-16 Tour February 6 – June 19
After a two-year break, the Edinburgh To celebrate its 40th anniversary,
Mountain Film Festival (EMFF) is Kendal Mountain Festival is expanding
returning to the Gordon Aikman Lecture its popular UK Tour to 40 dates, including
Theatre in Edinburgh. Sure to catch the eye – for the irst time – several venues in Ireland.
are ilms featuring very young and very old Alongside a selection of the world’s best
athletes: a posse of young mountain bikers adventure ilms, each tour date features top
from Whistler; a 4-year-old skier on the speakers with headliners including Jenny
slopes of Aonach Mor at Nevis Range; and Graham, the fastest women to cycle round
97-year-old runner George Etzweiler, among Banf Mountain Film the world; Jason Mallinson, a member of the
others. Of course, there are also athletes in Festival World Tour famous diving team who rescued 12 Thai
the ‘expected age bracket’ doing incredible schoolboys from a looded cave; endurance
things: a female climber scales apparently
18 January – 26 May athlete Anna McNuff, who ran 4,000km
blank rock faces using holds the size of a The Banff Mountain Film Festival across Britain completely barefoot; and top
pinhead, without ropes; the parkour athletes, World Tour is back for 2020, British alpinist (and Trek & Mountain
on a stomach-lurching rooftop race in Paris; a bringing a brand-new selection of contributor) Tom Livingstone. Each event is
blind man attempts to lead-climb the Old gripping action and adventure ilms to hosted by a member of the Festival
Man of Hoy sea stack on Orkney. The festival venues in the UK and Ireland. Film presenting team, providing exclusive
also welcomes three speakers to the stage: highlights include: ‘Spectre Expedition behind-the-scenes insights into the world of
Jenny Graham recounts her world-record – Mission Antarctica’, an epic tale of Leo adventure ilmmaking. Tour sponsors
breaking unsupported cycle around the Houlding and his teammates’ attempt Fjällräven will welcome audiences to each
world; Anna McNuff after her 2,620 mile to reach the summit of one of the most event, and there will be plenty of chances to
barefoot run through Britain; and Leon remote mountains on earth; and ‘The win prizes from Fjällräven and support
McCarron shares his 1,000 mile walk through Ladakh Project’ that follows French sponsors Mountain Equipment and Pala
the heart of the Holy Land. athlete Nouria Newman as she tackles Eyewear.
More info: www.emf.co.uk a 375km solo kayaking expedition down More info: www.mountainfest.co.uk
the most remote and daunting rivers in
the Indian Himalaya. The ilm ‘Up to
Speed’ puts a spotlight on the
extraordinary discipline of speed
climbing, featuring in the in Olympic
Games for the irst time ever at Tokyo
2020. As well as thrilling ilms, each
event features a free prize draw for
exciting outdoorsy goodies from the
tour partners.
More info: www.banf-uk.com
COLIN PRIOR RECEIVES AWARD

Leading Scottish landscape photographer wins the Scottish Award for Excellence in Mountain Culture
Organisers of The Fort photography in Scotland whose most inaccessible locations for
William Mountain Festival work has been showcased all the precise moment when
have announced that world- over the world, Colin Prior (who weather and light conditions
renowned photographer, Colin graced the cover of issue 61 of perfectly combine at the ‘golden
Prior, is the twelfth recipient of Trek & Mountain, left) is an hour’ of dawn or dusk.
the Scottish Award for artist and technician who Colin Prior once said of his
Excellence in Mountain Culture. expertly creates the illusion of photography: “To know a
Nominated by the public and his three dimensionality in two mountain is to understand its
peers as a mountain hero who dimensional images. His rhythms and then become part
celebrates achievement, majestic photographs of the of them. To photograph
accomplishment and the spirit hugely iconic Scottish mountains successfully
of adventure, Colin joins mountains capture sublime demands what the Arctic Inuit
previous esteemed winners moments of light, colour and refer to as ‘quinuituq’ which
including Andy Nisbet, Dr Adam land. They are also the result of translated means ‘deep
Watson, Jimmy Marshall, Myrtle McNeish in the Excellence in meticulous research, planning, patience’ – literally waiting
Simpson, Ian Sykes, Dr Hamish Mountain Culture Hall of Fame. preparation and skill, often hours for one second, or in my
MacInnes and Cameron As a visionary of landscape involving repeated trips to the case, years for one second.”
Online at alpkit.com or available in-store Get ready to win winter with the right layering, whether out to run,
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TRAILHEAD READERS’ PHOTOS
Summit
Sponsored by...
Send your mountain pix to summit@trekandmountain.com for a chance to win a great prize!
Manaslu trek
Matt Jones
This photo is from my recent
Manaslu circuit trek which I
found out about from your
magazine’s ‘Where to Trek 2019’
article. This night shot was taken
in Samagaun on a rest day while
trekking around Manaslu, the
eighth highest peak in the world
(8156m). In the morning, I had
walked to a nearby glacial lake
with stunning mountain scenery.
I spent the afternoon drinking
tea and chatting with a local
scarf saleswoman. She told me
about how she had crossed the
Larkya La (5106m), the high
point on the circuit, many times
and that I would be very cold
unless I wore a scarf! I did end
up buying a scarf from her and
wore it that evening while taking
pictures of Manaslu and the
Milky Way.
Rjukan, Norway
Chris Blundred
Here is a photo from my recent cold morning as we headed out
ice climbing trip to Rjukan in to Krokan. Despite the cold, we
southern Norway. Climbers began climbing, and it
travel to Rjukan from all over to immediately started warming
climb during the winter months. up as soon as we got on the ice,
On this day, it was a particularly making for a great day!
Bavaria the 30th December in the

Rolf Rosenstock morning during a hike to the
This photo was taken at the Eiskapelle, otherwise known as
Watzmann East Wall in Bavaria, the ‘Ice Chapel’. We travelled
Germany, also called the there by boat via the Königsee,
Batholomä Wall. It was taken on a stunning natural lake.
Scottish Highlands
Gareth Reilly
“Do you have crampons?” “No.” “Winter

Gloves?” “No. Whatever you pack, just do it
x2.” This was the response from my mate
on assessing him for our annual winter
foray. Nevertheless, it’s a good job I have
an addiction to eBay and was able to
provide the aforementioned items. Our
shifts rarely match so whatever the
weather, something was getting done. I’d
watched the weather report earnestly and
my initial plan of doing the Northern
Pinnacles was out the window, so I
suggested a high camp, followed by the
Liathach ridge in the morning. We started
at 5am in Glasgow. After driving 230 miles,
a hard slog to the bealach, some frantic
searching for some level ground before it
got dark, boiling some snow, a boil in the
bag between two, -90C weather, and a
frozen bum from an inadequate roll mat,
needing a pee first thing led me to getting
out of the tent. I’m glad I got up and caught
this amazing sunrise, an awe inspiring
sight that left me genuinely speechless for
a good 10 minutes. It was a once-in-a-
lifetime moment aided by serendipity and
circumstance. It has certainly whet the
appetite for future adventures.
Snowdon Horseshoe
Nathan Taylor
Goch ridge which is definitely not one for
the faint-hearted. We summited Crib Goch
The Prize! WORTH
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We had perfect hiking conditions for our
Snowdon Horseshoe trip during the last few
then Snowdon before finishing with Y
Lliwedd and headed back to the car park. It
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The Evidence of Things Not Seen
THE EVIDENCE
OF THINGS
NOT SEEN
W.H.MURRAY
Muztagh Tower (right),

irst climbed in 1956
In an extract from his autobiography, W.H.Murray recalls the first crossing of the
Khumbu Icefall in 1951 and muses on the first ascent of Muztagh Tower in 1956
When long ago I first thought to write of awesome obstacles, his eyes shone. Sella’s taken at other angles.
my life on mountains, I had hopes to regale famous photograph – a telephoto at Two years later, I was climbing with
readers with the more vivid memories, eighteen miles range from the foot of the friends in Garhwal and Kumaon. Within a
which would naturally include moments of Golden Throne – hung on his bedroom month of our return, China invaded Tibet.
danger, hairbreadth escapes, the suspense of wall. I took one look at that monolith, That event sharply reminded Michael Ward
exploration, and their direct opposites when nearly 10,000 feet of unbroken rock – and me, and Tom Bourdillon, that the old
relaxation brings new insights. Always I had impossible! The thought came to me approach to Everest through Tibet being
tried to keep in mind the principle at the involuntarily, despite the lessons I thought I now closed, a new one might be opening:
back of Tom Longstaff’s words: ‘Number knew by heart. Mercifully, I held my tongue because Tilman, that same autumn of 1950,
your red letter days by camps, not summits.’ and swallowed my laughter. I did not want had been allowed to go up the Khumbu
Enjoyable as the recall was, I had begun to embarrass the boy. The North Wall of the Glacier from Nepal with Houston’s
to think near its close that much of it could Eiger, which had just been climbed, looked American party. A new reconnaissance of
seem to be a beating about the bush, an by comparison stumpy and practicable. Yet Everest from Nepal seemed to us an urgent
evasion of the real issue, which was: what John was no wild-eyed youth. He had need. Tilman had photographed its west
had mountains taught me in the course of a common sense and an orderly mind. Behind side from 18,000 feet on Kala Patar, at six
long life? What if anything had I learned of his glasses were quiet eyes and a quality of miles’ range. I asked him what he thought.
real value – real not just for me but stillness. I liked him. He knew already that His reply was unequivocal, characteristically
hopefully for others too? I had learned a he had a first-class brain, and seemed able to terse: ‘Impossible. No route.’ Confounded as
multitude of things, and have been trying relax in that awareness. When he grew up, I felt, I was not unduly dismayed. I knew
already to set some of them down, both in he would act with authority without that no one could say such a thing of any
this book and its predecessors. Two remain seeming aggressive – and also, I felt sure, obstacle without rubbing his nose against it,
outstanding. They are important: enough grow out of his Muztagh folly. and Tilman’s nose was not six miles long.
for a short conclusion to the Himalayan Even Tom Longstaff whose opinion I am unable to criticise his opinion. Had I
chapters. I respected before all others had written, not been saying the same thing, inwardly, of
The first of these is the value of ‘The Muztagh Tower will remain inviolate.’ the Muztagh Tower? Meantime, the
commitment, and the second, its corollary, The war with Germany carried us off. Himalayan Committee of the Royal
that all obstacles are impostors, and none When we were demobbed, John went to Geographical Society and Alpine Club
impossible. I will explain these two, but first, Oxford and soon became president of the backed Tilman. That was hardly surprising.
let me say that I do know the aphorism, Oxford University Mountaineering Club. They had read Mallory’s report of the
‘Nothing is impossible for the man who His boyhood dream was still with him. Khumbu side (seen from the col east of
doesn’t have to do it himself.’ The words Sella’s photograph still hung on his wall at Pumori):
have a glib ring, spoken perhaps by one who college, and still I discounted all thought of
has not yet discovered commitment’s secret. his acting, for he could not climb to my ‘I do not much fancy it would be
When I began climbing as a young man, standard on rock and ice, and I reckoned my possible, even if one could get up the
one of the first things I had to learn, if only standard not equal to his Muztagh. I had glacier … the western glacier and the
by slow degrees, was a proper irreverence for not seen his collection of photographs, slopes above revealed one of the most
the pundits of my own country, that is, awful and utterly forbidding scenes ever
when they told me, as they did from time to observed by man.’
time, that a rock route was impossible, or
else ‘unjustifiable under snow and ice’. In my Tilman’s emphatic words therefore came
early years on Scottish mountains, I began as a clincher. The RGS would grant us no
to appreciate the truth of Fridtjof Nansen’s “The News Chronicle money for Everest. So we each agreed to put
words, spoken out of his Arctic travels: ‘The
difficult is that which can be done at once,
heard of our plan and up £300 of our own, and on that basis I
went ahead and organised. The News
the impossible that which takes a little offered £40,000 on Chronicle heard of our plan and offered
longer.’ But I still had to learn their truth £40,000 on condition that we took along a
more thoroughly. condition that we took staff photographer, and a reporter with
In 1939 I had found a friend in John
Hartog, then a schoolboy of seventeen at
along a photographer, and freedom to write as he chose. We turned
that down as likely to generate ballyhoo of a
Westminster. He told me that ever since he a reporter with freedom kind we were unwilling to suffer. At the last
was fourteen his ambition had been to moment The Times gave £5,000 with no
climb one particular peak in the Karakoram to write as he chose.” strings attached, but too late to be of
– the Muztagh Tower. When he spoke of its practical use – it went not to us to buy
gear, but to the Himalayan Committee, Nuptse. No sérac had toppled. Longstaff had
who later refunded our expenses. been right as usual. Subsequent history has
Throughout we had good moral support “As soon as we climbed shown the whole obstacle – so intimidating
from the RGS. on our first ascent – to be like every other,
One month before we set off, Eric on to Pumori’s flank in an imposter, not impossible. Nonetheless, it
has been one of the mountain’s principal
Shipton had arrived back from China,
where he’d held a consulate. We asked him
late September, and killers – not to be underestimated.
to lead. No one knew Everest better than he; looked on to Everest’s In 1953 a large British party duly arrived
so it seemed appropriate to give him the and, using assault tactics, climbed Mount
position which I happily resigned. He told western flank from Everest for the first time. No previous
expedition had ever been so well equipped –
me that he too had seen Everest’s west side
from the Pumori Col, and agreed with
20,000 feet, the route to a gun for lobbing bombs on to unsafe snow
Mallory and Tilman – no route from the the south col lay plain slopes to clear the route, walkie-talkies,
Khumbu – but he would come because he’d extendable metal bridges for crossing
love to visit the Sherpas’ homeland and here before our eyes.” crevasses, rope ladders. Oxygen apparatus
was an expedition already organised and and clothing were of a calibre hitherto
ready to go. I could not help reflecting that waiting below, we feared still more the unavailable. Stores for the expedition
if he’d come home from China just a few threat of the Nuptse flanks above. weighed 71–2 tons and 350 porters were
months earlier, there would have been no The farther we went the more tortuous required to carry it. Colonel Hunt had
British expedition to Sola Khumbu in 1951. grew the route. The glacier became badly planned his expedition with thoroughness,
The upshot was, of course, that as soon as riven with dark cracks running in every learning from the accumulation of
we climbed on to Pumori’s flank in late direction. When an ice axe was thrust hard knowledge and experience won in adversity
September, and looked on to Everest’s through, it was apt to meet empty space. We by the climbers of ten previous expeditions
western flank from 20,000 feet, the route to were not wearing crampons, and glad of it. – but the judgement and efficiency with
the south col lay plain before our eyes. At one passage through séracs, a giant pillar, which he drew on that knowledge were his
Despite the expert’s opinions, we had as tall as the Tower of Pisa, leaned so far out own.
been right. that we expected to see it topple at any At last, a man had stood on the world’s
No less plain rose that major obstacle, the moment. We crept past, holding our breath. summit.
Khumbu Icefall; it looked to us all like a At the last, we faced a final wall of ice. After
death-trap. Hanging glaciers draped the two abortive attempts, a route to the top was MUZTAGH TOWER
flanks of both its containing ridges. Judged cut by Tom Bourdillon. We had made it – After that, I ought to have learned my lesson
by alpine standards, the avalanches falling the way ahead looked clear to the south col. – but my grasp of it still fell short: We live
from these must surely rake the icefall from But not quite: a vast crevasse, 100 feet broad and learn but not the wiser grow. Pomfret’s
side to side. I could already see that debris at its narrowest, barred the full breadth of one-line shaft might have been aimed
scarring the Nuptse wall had shot out to the glacier. We could go no further. straight at me. Thus, when John Hartog told
near the icefall’s centre. Could we justly ask We had won – but hadn’t won. It was me that he soon hoped to have time and
Sherpas to go there? Doubts filled our hard to have come past the difficulties, to be money to make his attempt on the Muztagh
minds. But long as we watched and waited, so near the summit ridges and to see the Tower, I gave no positive encouragement. In
no other ice blocks fell. I then remembered upper mountain clear and beckoning. It 1956 Hartog was aged thirty-four and
the advice given me by Tom Longstaff when looked eminently climbable. We knew now working as a nuclear physicist. He invited
he had first heard of our reconnaissance: that the mountain would not be ours – not Tom Patey, Ian McNaught-Davis and Joe
‘My guess is that you’ll find the ice on the today. But its day would come. I had Brown to join his team. That they were able
mountain’s south-west side much more believed in this way to the summit and we to climb the mountain at short notice that
viscous than that on the north, therefore, had dispelled the psychological barrier of summer, with minimum reconnaissance and
less prone to avalanche.’ the inaccessible and the negative attitudes it no hitches, was due entirely to John’s
I mentioned this to Eric. He was naturally had engendered. We had climbed up and we twenty-year research. He had in his
uncertain. had climbed down the impossible! possession every known photograph of the
We made three probing climbs to search Gainsaying the pundits we had found the mountain from ground and air at every
that icy chaos for a safe route through, and route up Everest. This route would ‘go’. We angle. Every written report had been
in late October began our final ascent of the could pass it to our successors. To gain the collected, filed and analysed. Never before
whole icefall. Nearly a month of dry upper glacier and to make a tolerably safe had an unclimbed peak of the Karakoram
weather had reduced its snow-cover. It was route for porters up the icefall would need been so thoroughly studied by a man
now in extremely open, rickety condition. long aluminium ladders and much fixed trained to research from his youth. His was
The glacier seemed to have been moving rope. We could not have foreseen the need the first attempt from any nation, yet he
down in uncoordinated jerks. Less than two for these ladders – hardly a usual piece of knew already that his best approach was by
hours up, we came on a badly shattered area, mountaineering equipment. But it wasn’t a the Muztagh and Chagaran Glaciers, and his
which had greatly changed in the last five usual route and their absence had stopped most hopeful route the north-west ridge.
days. It looked as if up-heaved and shaken us. We were disappointed. At the same time At his first try, the twin summits were
by earthquake. The upper glacier overhung we were triumphant at having found the climbed. There has since been a wrong
the lower, and between them a great chasm way and the key to the world’s highest tendency to give all credit to his
had opened, jammed tight with ice blocks mountain – I felt vindicated. In the future a companions by reason of their great skills
the size of houses. A glassy bridge spanned party would come this way bringing with it and known names. The truth is, while they
the nearer part of this chasm. As we roped the necessary equipment to bridge these all had need of each other, the Muztagh
carefully across, we could feel it trembling huge crevasses and they would succeed. Tower had been Hartog’s peak, his the
beneath our feet. I felt terrified, Shipton too. In one long day of nervous tension, we chosen route, his the long-term
He muttered to me, ‘We shouldn’t be here.’ I had climbed up and down that icefall commitment, and so principally his the
agreed. Quite apart from the blue depth without incident. Nothing had fallen from first ascent. He was the vital initiator,
Crossing the Everest Reconnaissance

Changri La Expedition 1951
Everest and Lhotse

from Pumori
Eric Shipton, Bill Murray, Tom Bourdillon,

Earle Riddiford, Michael Ward and Ed Hillary
W.H.Murray in
his boathouse
The Khumbu Icefall,
irst crossed in 1951
the linchpin and energy source in you can attain it too, as often as not. The no doors are closed. Ways through will
conception. The route as climbed was pages of mountain literature through the always be found.
thought to be technically the hardest done years give endless testimony. Dreams are That brings me to commitment. When
at that time in Asia. It made history for for action. three friends and I thought to make our
another and better reason: following the That truth has a universal application, very first expedition to the Himalaya, we
ascent of Everest and eight other 8,000- without limit other than needful time for were dreaming in particular of Garhwal and
metre peaks by ponderous expeditions, penetration. When I was young, we dreamed Kumaon, but were not yet committed.
mounted at high cost and manageable only that Everest might be climbed one day Dearly we wanted to go, yet we wondered:
by use of army-type logistics, the Muztagh without oxygen, and were derided by the Could we raise the money? Dared we
came as a pointer to the future. It seemed to physiologists. We dreamed of space travel to jeopardise our jobs? Did we know enough
clear the air. It directed the climbing world’s the moon and planets, and were derided by about Himalayan conditions? We dithered
attention to the new goal – not height for the physicists. And so it is on every plane. and delayed, but not too long. The great
its own sake as before, but to high standard This year, in a debate broadcast from Oxford change came when with sudden resolve we
climbing on lower peaks done alpine-style University, I heard those who dreamed of put down our money and booked a passage
by small, swift parties and with costs cut man’s union with Deity derided by the to India. A simple but vital act. We were
from £100,000 or more to £4,000 or less. biologist-philosophers. We may all be slow committed. Our change in fortune was then
The Muztagh story had begun with a to learn, but slowest of all are the men of so rapid, much of it through prompt help
schoolboy’s dream. John Hartog was so science when they lack vision. I do not seek from members of the Himalayan Club, that
unassuming that I forbore to scoff, but to abrogate reason, but to raise it. A camel I felt moved at the time to set down this
confess I had thought his dream impractical. cannot pass through the eye of a needle. record:
This is an old, old story, which we all have to Vision can. There are many doors closed in ‘Until one is committed there is hesitancy,
keep in mind – that dreams are more potent this world to a handicapped man or woman. the chance to draw back, always
than reason: that if you can dream a thing But for mankind, of which we all are part, ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of
initiative and creation, there is one

elementary truth, ignorance of which kills
countless ideas and splendid plans: that the
GET THE BOOK…
moment one commits oneself, then
Providence moves too. All kinds of things ‘The Evidence of during which he explored
occur to help one that would not otherwise Things Not Seen’ is Himalayan peaks never
have occurred. A whole series of events the autobiography before attempted
issues from the decision, raising in one’s of remarkable by Westerners, and
favour all manner of unforeseen incidents, mountaineer, writer and established the crucial
and meetings, and material assistance, which environmentalist W.H. Khumbu Icefall route
no man could have dreamt would have Murray. After being up Everest. Written just
come his way. I have a deep respect for one introduced to climbing before his death in 1996,
of Goethe’s couplets: in his early twenties, and with a foreword
Murray’s early Scottish by renowned Scottish
“Whatever you can do, or dream you can, climbs were brought mountaineer Hamish
begin it, to a halt by the Second MacInnes, this is a must-
Boldness has genius, power, and magic World War, which saw him read for anyone for which
in it.”’ spend three years as a the mountains are still a in paperback and ebook
Nazi prisoner of war. source of wonder. format on 6th February,
The Himalaya has finally taught me that After the war, Murray both priced at £12.99.
man, given single-minded commitment, is complete three ‘The Evidence of Things More info at: www.v-
in the long run not subject to impossible Himalayan expeditions, Not Seen’ is published publishing.com
obstacles.
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Nearing the top of Carn Mor Dearg, with the CMD
Arete leading away to the summit of Ben Nevis
CARN MOR DEARG ARETE
Picture Perfect
Traversing the Carn Mor Dearg Arete on a perfect winter day is one of the greatest
experiences the British mountains have to offer, says Alun Richardson...
WORDS & PICTURES: ALUN RICHARDSON
The Ben’s north face
from Carn Mor Dearg
W
ith peaks dressed in weather, Scotland will often make you winter mountaineering creates images of
their stunning winter wait for days like this, but when all the ropes, helmets, crampons, ice axes, steep
coats, interesting and stars align most would agree that one of slopes and avalanches. Hillwalking, on
challenging terrain, these peachy days will make up for all the the other hand, is probably perceived as a
perfect air quality and more challenging ones you are sure to less serious activity undertaken in gentler
the sense of satisfaction as you inally experience. terrain. Therein lies the problem; there
make your way down to the valley at the The day out described in this article is may be times when winter walkers think
end of a day – a clear and crisp winter the sort of route that begs the question they are only hillwalking when in reality
day in the Scottish mountains is hard to ‘when does winter walking become they have stepped into the terrain of the
beat. Of course, given its changeable winter mountaineering?’ For many people mountaineer. The important distinction is
whether the conditions underfoot and

the terrain require ice axe and crampons
and the skills to use them.
This long route deinitely straddles the
ine line between rambling and
scrambling, is deinitely winter
mountaineering, but never enters
‘climbing’ terrain. It requires steady
crampon skills, the ability to move
conidently over winter terrain and, for
some nervous walkers, a 30m rope would
be comforting on exposed sections. It
irst ascends the stunning East Ridge of
Carn Mor Dearg and then continues
along what is possibly the grandest ridge
walk in the UK – the Carn Mor Dearg
arete (CMD arete) – to inally reach the
summit of Ben Nevis.
The East Ridge approach is hidden
away amongst the wild and desolate
scenery of the Allt Daim valley and the
blocky crest of the CMD arete offers airy
positions and the inest views of Ben
Nevis’ north face, something the ‘pony’ or
‘tourist’ route misses out on completely.
I have extolled the magniicence of this
route so there must surely be a downside
– and there is, I’m afraid – it is a big day
out, taking somewhere between 9 and 12
hours! You will of course reach the top of
Ben Nevis (1334m), the highest point in
the UK. The Ben has an interesting name
which is an Anglicisation of the Gaelic
name ‘Beinn Nibheis’. ‘Beinn’ is Gaelic for
mountain, but ‘Nibheis’ has a variety of
possible derivations ranging from
‘malicious’ or ‘venomous’ to ‘heaven’s Reaching the top
clouds’ and even ‘top of a man’s head’. My of the East Ridge
favourite translation is ‘the mountain with

its head in the clouds’, but those that love
it refer to it as simply ‘the Ben’. It was not
until 1847 that Ben Nevis was conirmed
by the Ordnance Survey as the highest
mountain in Great Britain ahead of its
Cairngorm rival Ben Macdui.
Carn Mor Dearg (1220m) is also no
slouch in the height stakes, being the
ninth highest mountain in the UK and one
of only nine that exceed 4000 feet. Its
name roughly translates as ‘Giant Red
Peak’, which is an apt title even if it is
dwarfed somewhat by the massive bulk
of Ben Nevis across Coire Leis to the
west. The red in its name comes from the
colour of the sandstone, which is very
apparent on the summit ridge – when it is
clear of snow, that is.
WALK-IN OPTIONS
The day before our ascent we did our
usual preparations for a day out in the
winter hills: checked the weather and
avalanche forecasts, coloured in the
avalanche prone slopes on the map,
recorded important compass bearings,
packed our rucksacks and set our alarms At the top of
for early o’clock. the East Ridge
There are a number of options for
xxxxx
Reaching the top of Carn Mor Dearg
Arete and the summit of the Ben
accessing the East Ridge (we chose and as soon as you feel comfortable the conditions underfoot – deep soft
the easiest!): there is the traditional long start contouring the slopes on the left snow or icy conditions can make
walk from the Nevis Gorge car park at the side (true right side) of the river. This progress slower.
head of the road up Glen Nevis. can sometimes be time consuming when
Alternatively you can start from the Nevis the snow is deep and soft. As you walk CMD ARETE
Ski Range car park 10km from Fort up the valley you will pass three east- The 1.5km CMD arete is a ine curving
William along the A82 to Inverness. facing ridges that drop into Allt Daim, line with low technical dificulties (grade
Follow forestry tracks to emerge at a dam the East Ridge of Carn Mor Dearg 1), making it a ine choice for all it
(NN 162759) on the west bank of the Allt being the furthest. For those with a adventurous walkers. The crest of the
Coire Guibhsachan, then head to the more adventurous bent, the east ridge arête soon narrows after descending
watershed (NN 187722). from Carn Dearg Meadhonach is a from the summit of Carn Mor Dearg,
We opted for the one-off (8am grade 2 winter climb and highly but if the crest proves too airy for you
prompt), climbers’ gondola ride from recommended. the dificulties are easily turned. When
the Nevis Ski Range (do check it is Either way, you are rewarded by a walk you reach the head of Coire Leis, steep
running by calling 01397 705825/6). If that winds its way up a beautifully- crags appear which are are best avoided
the gondola is unable to operate due to shaped valley to a wild and remote- by moving to the left of the crest. The
high winds (or for those who prefer to feeling col. The East Ridge we are views across Coire Leis to the north
walk!) the same point can be reached interested in rises above the col and there face of Ben Nevis are breathtaking,
within 90 minutes by following a path are a number of ways to start it with the full extent of the magniicent
under the gondola line. I can’t deny that depending on the snow conditions. In cliffs laid out before you. We spotted
ski lifts are ugly, but they are convenient itself it is nowhere dificult, but some of 30+ climbers on the face the day we did
and they are soon lost from sight as the slopes are steep and toward the top it the route.
soon as you enter the Allt Daim valley. narrows to a ine ‘alpine’ ridge and steady There is no easy escape from the CMD,
The gondola ride also makes the route footwork is needed before reaching the but if the conditions are good it is
a reasonable proposition for mere summit of Carn Mor Dearg. Reaching the possible to descend north into Coire Leis
mortals, especially when daylight is summit is ‘crunch time’, the moment at the lowest point on the traverse. This
shortened in winter. when you have to decide to descend the emergency descent passes to the left of
The gondola reaches 650m (NN north ridge over Carn Dearg Meadhonach some old broken abseil posts (they may
186756), and from here you traverse and back to the gondola or to continue have been removed). In anything but
southwest for 1km to reach the descent along the CMD arête. Your decision will perfect conditions this is a serious way
into the Allt Daim valley. Start descending depend on your itness, the weather and down, steep with avalanche risk, and
when it is icy climbing facing-in may On top of the Ben’s

be required. The CMD ridge soon summit shelter
rises quickly to the shoulder of Ben
Nevis and the summit plateau of the
UK’s highest peak. When the weather
is good expect to be amongst lots
of people who have come up the
‘pony track’.
If time allows and the weather is
favourable, it is worth taking a few
moments on the summit to take in
the views and think about its history.
The Edinburgh botanist James
Robertson made the irst recorded
ascent on the 17th August, 1771. The
summit observatory was built in the
summer of 1883 and was in operation
until 1904. The meteorological data
collected during this period are still
important for understanding Scottish
mountain weather. C.T.R. Wilson’s
stint in the observatory was the
inspiration for the invention of the
‘cloud chamber’, so important in
discovering quantum particles. The
irst path to the summit was built
at the same time as the observatory
and was designed to allow ponies
to carry up supplies. The opening of
the path and the observatory
made the ascent of the Ben
Iconic view of
the CMD Arete
increasingly popular, all the more so good. To descend safely in low visibility, Nevis, or alternatively turn north-
after the arrival of the West Highland follow these instructions: from the northeast to enter the Allt a Mhuilinn
Railway in Fort William in 1894. summit cairn follow a bearing of 231 – but bear in mind this can become
degrees for 150m; stop here and set impossible to cross if swollen. Ford the
DESCENT ROUTES your compass to a bearing of 282 burn and pick up the outward path on the
There are a number of ways down, degrees and walk in that direction far side; at the deer fence and car park,
depending on whether you have left a car, following the odd cairn for just under descend the road to Torlundy, or for the
or are catching a bus or hitching a lift 1km to reach the top of the zigzag path (if ski centre follow the forest track which
back to the Nevis Range car park. They all it is visible). soon cuts right into the woods.
initially follow the main tourist route. The The path eventually crosses the Red If all has gone to plan, you should have
summit of Ben Nevis is a notoriously Burn before reaching a path junction. enjoyed a fantastic day in the Scottish
treacherous place to be when visibility is From here you can either turn left and mountains, and have a memory to
poor and your navigation skills need to be follow the main tourist path down to Glen cherish for years to come.
THE KNOWLEDGE
CMD ARETE: What you need to know before you go
PARKING steep terrain in crampons. Ben Nevis Inn bunkhouse www.travelinescotland.com/

Park at the ski centre 7 miles Climbing experience is not tel 01397 701227. Glen Nevis welcome.do
north of Fort William - www. required, but the ground is Youth Hostel tel 0870 004
nevisrange.co.uk. If you are blocky and a good sense of 1120
leaving a car, park in Glen balance is needed. GUIDEBOOKS AND MAPS
Nevis, near Cafe Beag Maps OS Explorer 392
and the SYHA hostel or the GETTING THERE (1:25,000)
Ben Nevis Inn. WHAT TO PACK Fly to Edinburgh, Glasgow, OS Explorer 399 (1:25,000)
50L rucksack, winter boots, or Inverness, where you Harvey/BMC Ben Nevis
warm trousers, three layers, can rent a car. Fort William (1:40,000)
CONDITIONS small duvet jacket or extra is a 3-hour drive from OS Landranger 41 (1:50,000)
The ridge is climbable in leece, balaclava or leece Edinburgh 2.5-hour from ‘Scotland’s Mountain Ridges’
all winter conditions, but hat, waterproof jacket and Glasgow or 1.5-hour from by Dan Bailey (Cicerone)
care should be taken in very trousers, ski goggles, warm Inverness. Fort William
strong winds. gloves, lightweight survival also lies on the West
shelter, food and drink, Highland line from Glasgow, USEFUL WEBSITES
crampons, one ice axe one of the most picturesque www.sais.gov.uk
EXPERIENCE AND and an optional 30m mainline railway lines in www.metoice.gov.uk/
FITNESS walking rope. the UK. public/weather/mountain-
The route is at least 18km, Numerous bus services are forecast
with over 1km of vertical also available from Glasgow, www.mwis.org.uk/
ascent. Expect it to take 9 WHERE TO STAY Inverness and Edinburgh,
hours, but it could be a lot Inchree Chalets and whilst those who live south
more! On top of the usual bunkhouse www.inchree. of the Scottish border can FLORA AND FAUNA
skills of winter walking such com. Tourist info Fort William even take a sleeper bus In the winter lora and
as navigation and avalanche (0845 22 55 121); Spean from London. There is a bus fauna are not so visible, but
assessment you will need Bridge (0845 22 55 121); service from fort William to you may see ravens, snow
experience of walking on Ballachulish (08452 255 121) the Nevis Range Ski centre: bunting and mountain hare.
Fiacaill Ridge in the Cairngorms
(image by Ibex Mountain Guides)
9 OTHER GREAT
WINTER RIDGES
Paul Lewis of Peak Mountaineering picks out nine other classic Scottish
ridges to climb in winter, and explains just why they are so good..
AONACH EAGACH RIDGE, consequences of slipping off the ridge winds and with heavy snow falling – it’s
GLENCOE (GRADE II) will be very serious, there are dificulties deinitely on the list for a revisit! The
that can only be overcome with good NE ridge is a great outing in a remote
One of the most famous (and certainly technical skills and it is a long route that’s location and without signiicant
narrowest) of the mainland ridges and a needs itness and speed to get it technical dificulty, although is has more
route with everything. My preference is to completed in a short winter day. Beyond challenging ground near the top and
head east to west which means, after the that, the stunning location in the Glencoe parties need to be competent at route
initial straightforward scramble up to Am valley, the continually interesting route inding. My group approached from the
Bodach, a tricky downclimb to access the and its place in Scottish history put it right main Lairig Ghru path until the fords
ridge proper. From there a series of at the top of every winter mountaineer’s across the Allt a’ Choire Mhòir. From
narrow ridges, scrambly ground and ‘to do’ list. there we crossed the Allt na Lairig Ghru
stunning views lead, via the Munro top and made our way over rough ground
of Meall Dearg, to the end of any into Garbh Choire. We were on a snow-
dificulties beyond Stob Coire Leith. NORTH EAST RIDGE OF holing adventure but there is the option
Finding the safe descent is key, but once ANGEL’S PEAK, to use the Garbh Choire Bothy, although
down at the road you’ll relect on what CAIRNGORMS (GRADE I) I understand it is in poor condition and
a fantastic adventure it’s been. Bear in you may, of course, ind it full anyway.
mind that the ridge is inescapable for I have only done this once and, although Overall, a great mountaineering outing
much of its length, it has a descent that it is really one to be savoured on a clear for those in search of more isolated
can be tricky to ind and follow, the day, my ascent was in unexpectedly high adventures.
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FIACAILL RIDGE, LIATHACH, TORRIDON around and up on to the summit of
CAIRNGORMS (GRADE II) (GRADE II) Meallan Odhar, a broad ridge leads to
the obvious crest of the Forcan Ridge.
Fiacaill Ridge is reached from the Along with the Aonach Eagach and maybe There is technically interesting ground
Cairngorm ski area and makes a pleasant An Teallach, the traverse of Liathach and a notorious ‘bad step’ that either
option for a short day. The walk-in is ranks right up there with the most needs a conident down climb or abseil,
pleasant and the technical dificulties – committing of lower grade mainland ridges but it won’t feel long enough by the time
although fairly short-lived – are fun and and, particularly in winter, it is a major you are reaching the Saddle summit. The
satisfactorily challenging. The ridge is undertaking. Liathach lies in Torridon Scottish Avalanche Information Service
reached by walking below the ski lifts in a which, although staggeringly beautiful, is forecasts don’t cover this area so care
westerly direction along the well used an imposing and dramatic landscape needs to be taken with the snowpack, but
path towards Coire an t-Sneachda (watch which all adds to the drama of the route. this is sure to be a route that long lives in
out for the point where the path splits after The traverse is long, technically intricate memory.
about 500m). As the path turns and with few escape options – attempters
northwards, the broad hump of the should ensure they have the skills
Fiacaill Ridge, which separates Coire an required. Having said that, although CASTLE RIDGE,
t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain, comes sections like the traverse of the Am BEN NEVIS
into view. Head across open ground and Fasarinen pinnacles can provide brilliant (GRADE III)
follow the blunt rib towards the more technical scrambling, there are some
technical ground. Once the ridge is dificulties that can be avoided by lanking Compared to the more sought-after
completed a nice loop can be made either paths. I guarantee that, although the ridges of Ben Nevis, Castle Ridge is prone
towards Cairngorm or around the Coire traverse will live in the memory for ever, it to being overlooked. However, although
an Lochain. will also make you work for those it is a steeper winter route with
memories! challenging terrain and – in some
conditions – potential avalanche danger
SOUTH EAST RIDGE AND on the approach, for those with the
ARETE OF THE COBBLER PINNACLE RIDGE ON required skills it offers a ine mountain
(GRADE III) SGURR NAN GILLEAN, day out. Approach by following the Allt
SKYE a’ Mhuillinn path towards the Charles
The Cobbler, at 884m, is relatively low (GRADE IV) Inglis Clark (CIC) Hut and the ridge,
compared to some of the peaks in this list. which is the irst of the great ridges on
However, it is a majestic mountain with If you have been to Skye and looked at the North Face, starts from the gully
three shapely peaks framing the skyline. It Sgurr Nan Gillean then you will have below the large buttress called ‘The
also makes a good stopping off option for looked up at Pinnacle Ridge. It’s a big Castle’. The climbing increases in
those heading up to the north or, indeed, route on a big mountain feature on a big dificulty as height is gained so
back down to the south. The South East mountain – and technically it’s the hardest don’t be fooled into thinking it is an
Ridge and Arete is an exciting traverse of route on this list (although some easy option.
the south and central peaks which offers guidebooks give this grade IV, I would
interesting technical ground and, on a personally say the ridge settles at around
clear day, stunning vistas. The route starts grade III in most conditions), but it really EAST RIDGE
at an obvious skyline ridge and what does offer an absolutely brilliant mountain OF THE NORTH
follows is a brilliant line up to the col day out. Technically interesting ground is BUTTRESS OF STOB BAN,
splitting the peaks. A tricky down climb or interspersed with stunning vistas, ground FROM GLEN NEVIS
abseil accesses the arete that then leads to that parties can move together on and a (GRADE II/III)
the summit block. Summit selies route inding challenge to ind the descent
obligatory! line. It will certainly draw on a broad For something a little less well known
range of mountain skills as well as the the East Ridge of the North Buttress,
ability to ascend rocky ground in winter whilst being quite a mouthful, makes a
T&M Editor Chris
on the Forcan Ridge conditions and descending from the Third pleasant and fun day out. From the Glen
Pinnacle also requires a 20m abseil. Yes, Nevis Youth Hostel the summit cone of
this route really has it all! Stob Ban is a spectacular feature drawing
the eye of the winter mountaineer, and
this shapely mountain – at a metre below
FORCAN RIDGE OF THE the one thousander mark – offers a
SADDLE, GLEN SHIEL great winter day out. The East Ridge of
(GRADE II) the North Buttress varies slightly in
grade depending on the line taken, but
A traverse of the Forcan Ridge always whichever line is taken it still requires
feels like a classic Alpine day out. Maybe good technical and route inding ability.
it is the feeling that it is right in the heart After a rambling but still enjoyable
of big mountains or maybe it’s the terrain lower section the upper part gets more
-–whatever it is, this is a great adventure deined, and what follows is a pleasant
for those with the required skills. Just corner followed by some lovely knife-
driving up the A87 Glen Shiel road sets edge aretes. The descent back into
the scene and, after parking and then Glen Nevis, while obviously needing
following the obvious stalkers’ path care, is straight forward enough.
On the Aonach Eagach
ridge (pic Dan Parry)
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Expert advice
from T&M’s
mountain
professionals...
40 Knowledge:
Using fixed ropes Many Himalayan peaks
Pete Hill explores the use of require the use of fixed ropes
fixed lines (or ropes) in an
expedition setting
44 Trek Basics,
Part 3: Staying
Safe HOW TO... CLIMB
Will Legon takes a look at
the planning and practices
that’ll help you avoid trouble
while abroad on an expedition
ON FIXED ROPES
On some expeditions you’ll be required to ascend and descend fixed ropes
48 Masterclass:
Snow Holes and – Pete Hill gives some pointers for doing it safely...
Shelters
Being able to build a
shelter in an emergency
could save you and your The use of fixed ropes (or could be used, but they will a short time due to the cutting
group’s lives in the winter ‘lines’) is a feature of stretch when loaded, and there effect of people pulling on it
mountains – we show you how many expeditions, and could will also be the problem of the constantly as they made their
be just a short distance over an sawing action caused by way up and down the rope.
awkward section of ground, or frequent loading and unloading Ropes that cross steep
for a large distance up the flank of body weight across a rocky ground tend to be put
of a huge snow face. section of rock; this can under a lot more pressure, as
OUR EXPERTS The seriousness of using a damage or even cut right the weight of the climber is
This month’s Mountain Skills team fixed rope for an ascent or through the rope over time. A usually committed to the rope
descent should never be fixed rope that crosses a as footing can be hard to gain.
GLENMORE LODGE underestimated, and it’s vital section of snowy ground may The techniques for negotiating
Scotland’s national outdoor to always make sure that the be relatively easy to negotiate. them will often rely on using
training centre offers a wide
rope is safe and secure, It will be anchored at each end, just the rope for ascent, with
range of courses and
instruction. www. checking any knots and and probably by a variety of two jamming devices being
glenmorelodge.org.uk rub points for signs of wear points along its length. This used, one each for a hand and
and tear. can be done by using snow a foot.
WILL LEGON The most common type of stakes, deadmen or even
Will is an experienced outdoor rope will be the low-stretch buried oxygen cylinders in the ASCENDING FIXED
instructor who runs courses on
first aid, rock climbing, nav and
variety, where the weight of a highest areas. A snow bollard ROPES ON SNOW
more. www.will4adventure.com climber will not cause much as the top anchor would also This is the way in which fixed
elongation. Dynamic ropes be suitable, but would only last ropes are most commonly
MOUNTAIN SKILLS KNOWLEDGE FIXED ROPES
climber’s harness is a cowstail get their feet flat and have a secure anchor immediately
with a karabiner. When they a breather. adjacent to them. A large
reach an intermediate anchor The top of the fixed rope pyramid of snow may also
point, the cowstail is clipped needs to have been set up at a help, or the use of oxygen
above it on to the new section place that is safe enough for bottles. If the rope is anchored
of rope, before the clamp is the climbers to unclip and low to the snow surface, such
taken off the rope just move away from their security, as with a deadman, it can
ascended, then placed on the so care should be taken when easily become drifted over and
next section. This ensures that doing so that there is no impossible to find, even in
the climber is at no time chance of a slip causing a long relatively good visibility.
unprotected, as if they took the slide back down the hill. A figure-of-eight abseil
clamp off the rope without the device will commonly be used
cowstail back-up, and slipped, DESCENDING FIXED for descent, as this will be easy
they would have the possibility ROPES ON SNOW to handle with large gloves on,
of falling a large distance. The top of any fixed rope and will not jam up on snowy
Resting is important, section needs to be clearly ropes. It is important that this,
especially at altitude, and in marked and easy to find, even too, is backed up with a
hard snow conditions having a in bad weather. Tall marker cowstail and screwgate, to
few ledges cut out of the snow wands, purchased locally for provide security at changeover
along the length of the fixed the purpose, serve the purpose points. Once the first
line will allow the climbers to well, with the rope being tied to section of rope has been
used, and is often deployed by

commercial companies to
facilitate their clients making it
to the top of their chosen
mountain. It is also used where
loads are being ferried up from
camp to camp, or just as a
general back-up. The line is
there as a safeguard, with the
climber making progress by
walking up. They will be
attached to the fixed rope with A snow stake being used Connecting an ascender
a mechanical rope clamp as a fixed-rope anchor to a cowstail
(ascender) with the version
incorporating a handle being
the best and easiest to operate,
especially when wearing
gloves. This clamp will be
attached to the climber with a
short length of rope or sling,
which allows for freedom of
movement. To ascend, the
clamp is simply slid up the
rope as the climber moves
forwards, and it locks when
pulled backwards, such as in
the event of a slip. In their other
hand, the climber may well be
carrying an ice axe which is
used as a walking aid, and is
obviously there as an extra
safeguard in an emergency. A figure-of-eight device and a cowstail set
Also attached to the up for an abseil
MOUNTAIN SKILLS KNOWLEDEGE FIXED ROPES
descended, the figure-of- as to miss out the suspect area rock, that section can be snow, where a single ascender
eight device is taken off the top altogether (see diagram, below bypassed quite simply. A sling or rope clamp is used as a
rope and placed on to the next left). Remember that the or length of spare rope is back-up, and the climber is
section, with the cowstail action of the wind, rubbing the attached to the anchor, along easily able to make their own
remaining on the upper rope. rope on to any sharp areas of with the end of the fixed rope way ahead. On any other type
Once the device is secure, the rock, can also cause a lot of (see diagram, below right). At a of ground though, the use of
cowstail is transferred to the damage even when the system point beyond the obstruction, two ascenders or a hybrid
rope just above it, and the is not being used. an alpine butterfly or similar system will be found to be
descent can continue. The prudent use of knot can be tied in the main most appropriate. If using
intermediate anchors can go a rope, and the sling attached these techniques, a cowstail
ASCENDING FIXED long way to preventing this here. This means that any should once again be used,
ROPES ON ROCK problem. For instance, even if wear will be on the sling for extra security when
This style of ascent usually the main anchor point is close section, and should it wear swapping from one rope
means that the rope will be to the area that is to be through, the whole rig will still length to another.
loaded with the climber’s avoided, placing a wire or be supported by the main rope. If you are heading out on
weight for at least part, if not chock a short way to one side Obviously, this is not a remedy an expedition or trek where
all, of the ascent. For that will have the effect of that should be used for a long the use of fixed ropes is
reason, not only must the redirecting the rope away from period of time, but it will required, you will usually be
rigging of the rope be done in a the problem. In some cases, certainly allow the use of a able to practise using them
very safe manner, but care and to give absolute security, it fixed line to be considered in on the lower slopes of peaks
should be taken to avoid any may be necessary to double up problem areas. before you begin the climb
chance of the rope fraying on areas of concern by using a The actual ascent of the rope proper – but some prior
sharp sections of rock when in sling or spare length of rope. very much depends upon the knowledge of fixed rope
use. If there is the possibility of For instance, if the main rope is nature of the terrain. On the techniques, as discussed
a problem occurring, the rope going to unavoidably be simplest ground it may be very here, will certainly give you a
should be routed in such a way running past a sharp area of similar to ascending a rope on head start.
A wire keeping a fixed rope A sling backing up the top

away from a rock bulge of a fixed rope
Main anchors Main anchors
Sling equalised
Wire placed in
suitable crack
Sling equalised
Screwgate
Figure-of-eight Screwgate
on the end of a
fixed rope
Figure-of-eight
on the end
of a fixed rope
Rock bulge
Sling
Screwgate
Rock bulge
Alpine butterfly
Alpine butterfly Screwgate
Load
Load
DISCOVER
WINTER Discover, learn and experience the winter mountains
with Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre.
We run a wide range of winter courses and qualifications, including
Glenmore Lodge instructors
are kept warm and dry Winter Skills, winter navigation, winter mountaineering, winter climbing
thanks to The North Face
Summit Series Range
Ellis Brigham is the

official retail partner
of Glenmore Lodge www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
MOUNTAIN SKILLS TREK BASICS
TREK BASICS,
PART 3: STAYING SAFE
Will Legon continues his series with a look at what you can do to
avoid trouble, and what to do in the case where you can’t…
Are you covered if something

goes badly wrong?
MOUNTAIN
MOUNTAINSKILLS TREK BASICS
SKILLS MASTERCLASS
Risk is a wonderful exciting same principle is now incorporated into

ingredient to any adventure. Without any trip planning for an overseas trek with
it we’d end up with holidays that are about a group of clients.
as exciting as a trip to the local fish and The sorts of questions to consider are
chip shop and then only to be told there’s what will you do in the event that you lose
no curry sauce on the menu. An essential your passport, flight tickets, wallet etc?
part on any adventure is not just the Who will you call if your partner is
acceptance of risks but actively suffering from an extreme case of altitude
embracing them. But, if we’re to keep sickness whilst on day 10 of a remote trek
clear of the local hospital which will come and how will you physically make that
complete with as much infection control call? Who will coordinate a rescue? I find
as my dad’s underpants then some steps these are all questions best answered
should be taken to manage those risks. before there’s a need to. Hence while I’m
Here are some top tips on how to return safely at home, armed with my
home intact from that trip of a lifetime: information I make preparations from my
after all, the best epics are the ones that forthcoming trip.
we survive from! We lose stuff all the time (well I do). So
consider what’s important and what you
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO will do in the event of its loss. My first
Spend some time doing some research. consideration is always my kit getting
Do you know if your destination for your lost by the baggage handlers. For a trek,
next trekking holiday is at risk from a most of this can be replaced with some
tsunami or earthquake? What’s the hasty shopping at my destination but not
political situation like, can you get by my boots – so I wear these on the flight.
wearing a pink bikini in the streets (with And in my hand luggage you won’t find a
or without a hairy chest) or will this offend wash kit but you will find my expensive
the locals? What’s the crime rate like: down jacket that’s going to be keeping
which districts do you need to steer clear me toasty warm up at the base camp
of? These are all questions that for our somewhere. So start by safe guarding
home country we know the answers to that which is precious and/or hard
already, but they’re not issues to be taken to replace.
for granted once we set out on our travels. Losing my passport could delay my
There are several sources for return. And as much as you may love life
information. My first port of call, even for in Delhi, Lima, Kathamandu, Ulan Bator, or
destinations that I frequent on an annual wherever you’re headed, you can bet an
basis, is the Foreign and Commonwealth enforced stay at your cost won’t seem so
(FCO) website. Here you will find loads of rosy after about day three. So first of all
general advice for your destination from take hard copies of the important pages
cultural sensitivities to regions that are and also have scanned copies saved
safe or dangerous. And it is with this online somewhere. Additionally have
knowledge that you can make decisions. some passport pictures to hand which
Decisions that will impact on what kit you always help with a reissue of a temporary
carry and where you can safely travel. passport. Personally I leave these hard
Also online there are many great travel copies with my in-country agent. In the
forums from which you will find someone event that I lose my passport on trek
who has recent experience and who will there is someone back in civilisation that
be only too willing to offer you first hand can expedite the process with the local
advice on the present situation. Three consulate to get me a new passport for
sites I like the look of are UK Climbing my return to base. The same applies for
Forums, Lonely Planet’s forums and flight tickets (if they’re not electronic) –
thirdly Boots’n’All. Finally once I’m in scan them, copy them and leave them
country I like to glean information from with someone you trust.
the locals and from fellow travellers too.
ACCIDENTS HAPPEN
PRIOR PREPARATION The next question to ask is what if
PREVENTS… someone has an accident whilst on trek or
Time playing soldiers with the Territorial more likely, on the road headed to the
Army many moons ago taught me a few trek? Preparation at home might mean
lessons in life. Thankfully I seem to undertaking a wilderness or outdoor first
remember less about the mass aid course. Allied to this is to pack a
destruction of people who might be substantial first aid kit and what you
waving guns at me with menace and more would pack for a day walking in the Lakes
about everything from ironing my shirts, won’t cut the mustard on trek in a
to being well prepared for various developing country when it could easily
eventualities. A set of patrol orders would be three or four days before your casualty
always include an ‘actions on’ paragraph sees a properly equipped and qualified
– i.e. what to do if x or y happens. This medic. A great reference to look at
MOUNTAIN SKILLS TREK BASICS
be staying that first night, or at least have

an idea of where you want to be heading
and how you will be getting there. Walking
out of an airport looking like the
archetypal tourist fresh off the plane, the
startled rabbit caught in the headlights,
is like the 1st year student at school
walking about with a sign attached to
his back saying “kick me” – it’s just
simply asking for trouble. Exit the airport
looking poor and a bit grubby, well
travelled, and knowing exactly where
you’re going, and how you’re getting
there. Knowing the right fare to pay the
taxi driver is all the better! Don’t do what
I did when I first landed in Miami aged
19 with a £1000 stashed about my body
in cash and try hitch hiking out. Neither
should you travel in anything but a
licensed taxi or with a pre-arranged hotel
transfer.
The first day or two in-country on your
trekking holiday could well be in the city
where you landed. You should definitely go
and explore but do so armed with an idea
of which districts are safe to do so and
where it isn’t so safe. I find this holds
more true for developed countries: think
New York City for example. If you’re in a
city where taxi drivers are unlikely to
speak English and quite probably don’t
Be extra vigilant in
busy city centres write with our alphabet how will you get
back to your hotel or hostel? With this in
mind it’s worth carrying a business card
before you go and to pack with you is rescue team who will drop everything to from the hotel with their address written
Cicerone Press Pocket First Aid and come to your assistance. So take the time on it in the local language.
Wilderness Medicine – I take it to think who can support you in the event And when you pay your driver or the
everywhere. At the back of this it will of an emergency. The one thing you can street seller for your hot dog equivalent,
advise you what kit, and medications, you do is to carry with you a copy of the don’t pull out a wad of holiday cash.
should carry according to your group size international emergency assistance Always carry small change, and keep the
and time out. number that comes with your travel big notes somewhere safe like the hotel
In the event that you need to organise a insurance and with that a copy of your safe or your underpants. Additionally only
casualty evacuation you need to have policy number. Additionally I have as a wear a cheap watch and try to keep that
considered beforehand what means of back up my in-country agent and all singing and all dancing DSLR camera
communication are available. Almost someone I can rely on back home in the under wraps when it’s not in use.
disappointingly mobile phones have more UK who knows how to contact the Essentially don’t make yourself look like a
coverage than ever before – and this in-country embassy where I’m trekking. worthwhile target for crime.
paired with a GPS, could easily be the only Finally, it sounds obvious, but be Now I don’t know about you – but I
resort you need. In many places however properly insured. That policy that comes don’t know many places where
signal is limited or non-existent and free with your bank account won’t save recreational drugs are legal. In many cities
depending on how risky/technical your your smoked bacon whilst you’re trekking they are readily available but then the
trip is you may also want to consider a in the wilderness at altitude. Many people local police are also on standby and
satellite phone as a backup. An in- trek under-insured not realising that waiting for this choice opportunity for you
between measure which could also be a there’s literally a ceiling on their insurance to make that purchase and it won’t be the
great backup is a SPOT Satellite – often at around 2000m above sea level. dealer they’ll be arresting: he’s no good
Messenger which you can use to call out One great back up, is to join the Austrian for a hefty bribe.
the cavalry but with the downside that the Alpine Club (don’t worry they speak Finally… You’ll never love the NHS as
ability to communicate effectively is English!) which for £43.50 comes with much as when you end up in a local
limited to fixed text messages (on the insurance for mountain rescue included. hospital oversees. In fact, you’ll never
basic models, but 2-way comms is now The policy won’t cover your lost wallet but love the British police as much as when
available in the latest SPOT X devices). it will help you get back to base in one you’re dealing with a foreign copper
More options to contact help by satellite piece. And of course, in Europe make sure speculatively looking at you whilst
can be found at www.myspot.eu. you carry your EHIC card – could save you holding your passport firmly in his hand.
Once you have the means to make that a lot of time and money! So do have an adventure, but go
emergency call the next question is who forearmed with some knowledge, skills
will you call? There’s no 999 in Nepal or WHEN YOU LAND and a healthy dose of common sense.
come to that even a local mountain Before you land know where it is you will Happy travels!
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MOUNTAIN SKILLS MASTERCLASS
MOUNTAIN SKILLS
Starting to dig out

a snowhole
MOUNTAIN SKILLS
enough for you and your clothing loose on the shelf, as
MASTERCLASS: companions to lie down, and at

least sit up, if not stand up, in.
they will attract moisture from
the atmosphere. Gear placed
SNOW HOLES
The floor of the sleeping area into plastic bags or boxes will
needs to be higher than the stay dry.
access tunnel, as this will serve Keep the stove in the centre
& SHELTERS to keep warm air trapped in the

living space, allowing cold air to
roll out of the door. It also allows
of the hole and quite near the
door. This is useful in case of
any spillage, and also allows the
for easy removal of the snow poisonous vapours created by
whilst digging, and this can be the cooking process to sink
In the winter mountains, the ability to make a snow made easier by letting the down the entrance tunnel to the
hole or snow shelter could literally save your life – debris fall on to a plastic bivi outside and not be trapped in
bag beneath where you are the hole itself. Cooking will be
in this month’s Masterclass, Pete Hill shows you working. This can then be quite a long process, so make
where and how to build them... dragged out and emptied at sure that all of the necessary
regular intervals. food items and utensils are to
At some point, your section hand. Most likely, you will be
There is a difference time-consuming to enlarge. will join up with the one being operating from inside your
between snow holes and Digging in snow is hard work, dug by your partner, and this sleeping bag, which will be
snow shelters. A snow hole is a and it is worth wearing a full set increase in space will allow for inside a waterproof breathable
base that has been constructed of waterproofs with only light even more efficient digging and bivi bag to keep warm, so get
for a planned stay of one or clothing underneath to save debris removal. Towards the yourself comfortable from the
more nights, and suitable sweating too much. Your gloves end of the digging process, outset. Have a pile of snow
equipment, such as shovels, will get sodden, so having an old debris can be packed into one chunks ready to melt in the pot.
sleeping bags, stoves and so pair to use for the digging of the access tunnels, sealing it Only put in a little at a time and
forth, have been carried for the process is a good idea, saving a off completely. This will now wait for it to melt before adding
purpose. They can range in size decent pair for when the work make for a handy storage area. more. The base of the stove
from the most basic, which will stops. The use of shovels is The living area, once finished, may well get hot during the
sleep two people, up to those important, otherwise the task can be dome-shaped. Make cooking process, so don’t have
sleeping twelve or more. A s will take a very long time. You sure that you provide plenty of it on any sleeping mat or
now shelter, on the other hand, may also want to have tested headroom and don’t end up touching any kit. If possible,
will be constructed in an the area with an probe, to make with an area that’s too place it on a flat piece of stone.
emergency, in order to shelter sure that the snow is of cramped. Ensure that the floor Alternatively, you may have a
from the effect of the elements, sufficient depth and that rocks has a smooth and level surface, light piece of plywood or similar
and may be little more than a won’t be struck after a short otherwise you will be sliding carried for the purpose. This will
glorified scoop in the ground. To time. In hard snow conditions, a about during the night. The prevent the stove from melting
spend more than a couple of snow saw will help you to cut ceiling and the walls should be itself into the floor of the snow
hours in a snow shelter means through any difficult layers, and smoothed over with a gloved hole and causing the pot to tilt
that things must really have to construct blocks to help seal hand or the back of the shovel; over. Take care with boiling
gone bad. up the entrance. this helps to reduce the drips as liquids for this very reason.
There are a variety of ways of the temperature within the hole Light can be provided with a
SNOW HOLES digging a snow hole, and here rises during cooking and with candle, and a shelf or two with
A snow hole is best constructed we will look at one that assumes body heat. candles on them will light up
in a steep bank of snow, as this that two of you will be digging at As a final touch, you may the living area very effectively.
means that you will have to dig the same time. You will be want to roof over some of the Scoop out the back of the shelf
in for less distance before being starting with two doorways, so entrance tunnel, particularly if to make a snow reflector, and
able to dig upwards to form the mark out the shape on the the slope that you have dug into plenty of light will bounce off
living area. However, the slopes slope in front of you, is at an angle, or the wind is its surface.
that make good sites are also approximately shoulder width transporting a lot of snow. It is important that the
those that will be holding a large and 120cm high. These will Doing this will help to prevent entrance to the snow hole does
weight of snow, thus they may initially be your entrance any ingress of wind-blown not drift over. If this is a
be avalanche-prone. More than passageways, although one will snow, and it can be possibility, perhaps due to high
one person has been carried off be blocked off at a later stage. accomplished by cutting blocks winds during the night, it may
by an avalanche while looking Tunnel directly inwards and that may then be used as handy be necessary to get up
for a suitable place to stay, so slightly up, throwing the debris building material. You might frequently to dig out the front
be aware of your surroundings, away behind you. How far in you also wish to reduce the size of of the hole to ensure that
the nature of the terrain and the go before starting to enlarge the the entrance, in order to keep adequate ventilation is
state of the snowpack, testing hole depends on the angle of as much wind out as possible. maintained. If this is cut off,
for avalanche danger if the slope into which you are Being organised means that cooking becomes extremely
necessary. In some situations, digging and the quality of the you will end up having a comfy hazardous as poisonous fumes
particularly when on expedition snow. stay, so spend a bit of time are given off, and it should not
to the higher mountains, a Once you have dug in for an getting things just right. A be undertaken if there is no
suitable snow hole site could appropriate distance, the hole couple of long shelves for fresh air available.
be found in the gap of a can then be enlarged by digging storing kit can be made by If you need to go outside
bergschrund or even a suitable upwards and sideways, to digging into the walls. Don’t during the night, ensure
crevasse, although it may be create an area that is big leave items such as spare that you can relocate the
snow hole. This is Don’t be tempted to make the

surprisingly difficult to do, even The floor of your snow hole should be higher than bivi too big, otherwise the heat
the entrance tunnel to allow cold air to ‘roll’ out
in good visibilty, let alone when retention of the system will not
the mist is down or spindrift be as efficient as it otherwise
blowing about. On a clear night, might be.
the glow of a candle from inside
the hole can be seen from some A SHOVEL-UP
distance and act as a marker, On flat terrain, or where a
but in poor weather a climbing suitably steep slope for a sitting
rope may have to be tied bivi cannot be found, two other
around anyone venturing methods are possible. The first
outside, so that they can find is called a shovel-up or mouse-
their way back. hole bivi, and is very suitable if
shovels or other methods of
EMERGENCY moving snow are available. To
SHELTERS make one place everyone’s
An emergency shelter is exactly rucksacks on the ground and, if
that, designed to be used only possible, cover them with a bivi
when dire straits dictate that bag or shelter. Now heap as
safety from the elements has to much snow as you can on top of
be sought, perhaps when your them to create a large molehill.
partner is injured or extremes of Gently firm the snow down with
weather make movement shovels and hands every now
impossible. Prior to making the and then. You can now dig a
decision to dig in, every effort small entrance on the side out
should be made to get down off of the wind and remove the bivi
the hill or into some other area bag and packs. The inside can
of safety, such as a local hut or in a mountain environment high enough to ensure that your be cut out to shape to give
other habitation. digging into the snow may be head ends up below surface more headroom (be careful not
Digging an emergency shelter the only realistic option. We will level. You will need a seat to sit to dig up too far!), and then
is tiring work, using up a lot of look at three methods here, on, and this can be made at the smooth the roof over to prevent
effort and calories. Often it will each relevant for different back of the slot from debris as it dripping.
have to be constructed with the situations. you near the end of digging.
minimum of equipment, and Once the slot is dug, it will need THE SNOW GRAVE
most likely you will end up SITTING SHELTER to be roofed over in order to Another method, suitable for
spending time in it with only the The sitting shelter is the most keep snow out and warmth in. use on the flat in solid ground
clothes that you are wearing, as thermally efficient of the three, One way of doing this is by such as wind slab, is the snow
it would be unlikely that you and may be the most weighing down a bivi bag or grave. This name stems from
would have a sleeping bag with comfortable to spend any time group shelter, using snow the position that you take
you on a single-day mountain in. It requires a steep bank of blocks around their edges, when using it, laying on the
trip. Anything that can be done snow to be dug into, and these perhaps supported across the ground under the surface of
to make the digging and will often be found on stream slot by walking poles. In hard or the snow. Using the pick of
construction easier should be banks or re-entrant features. slabby snow conditions, it is your axe, cut out an outline
seized on, and gear to hand The idea is to end up in a sitting much better to cut a series of on the ground. This should be
such as ice axe, deadman, a position, with minimal contact snow blocks, slightly longer around shoulder-width and a
plate or lunch box can be put with the snow. This position, than the width of the slot, metre or so long. Divide this
to use for digging into the snow. with the entrance low down, which can be placed over the into slabs widthways and lift
A lightweight shovel will greatly allows warm air to be retained shelter to provide a roof. These them out. Now scoop out the
simplify the digging process, around the head and torso. can be placed one above the snow underneath, hollowing
and it is recommended that Digging straight into the snow other until the slot is covered, out an undercut section for
at least one is carried between and then tunnelling upwards leaving only a small entry gap your feet. If possible, try to
group members during is one way of building the at the bottom. Cut them from leave a lip around the hole
winter trips. shelter, but this means that a section of ground above the for the slabs to rest on when
There are many types of you are lying on the snow all of shelter, as this will make them they are replaced. If this is
emergency shelter that can be the time and will get very wet, easy to slide down into place. not possible, other longer
constructed. Large boulders will not a good idea if you are to The seat should be insulated slabs from a position away
often have drifts of snow behind spend the night in the same with anything to hand, such from the hole will have to
them, and these can be clothes. However, in soft snow as a rucksack back insert, and be cut.
scooped out to create a shelter. conditions it may be the your feet can go into the sack Once the hollowing out is
Below the tree line, the lower only choice. itself once you are in place. done, place a couple of slabs
branches of fir trees in A much better option requires Marking the top of the bivi is back in place, climb inside and
particular, will often support you to do a little more work, but a good idea, best done lower the others down on top.
snow but leave a sheltered area it keeps you off the snow with walking poles or an Make sure you use any spare
underneath by the lower throughout, making it a more ice axe. gear to help minimise your body
section of the trunk. This can pleasant experience. A wedge- Snow is a very good insulator, contact with the snow which, as
also be dug into and end up shaped slot of around shoulder- but you need a few centimetres you are lying flat, will be
being quite spacious.However, width is cut into the snow bank, (2–4in) of air gap around you. considerable.
How To: Make Snow Holes & Emergency Shelters

Four options for anyone staying overnight in the winter mountains
A cross-section A cross-section of
of a snow hole a sitting shelter
Wind
Ski poles direction
as marker
The entrance
can be
extended if
required by
constructing
a ‘porch’ from Living area
slabs cut Snow
nearby
Rucksack at
door to prevent
draughts – feet
can be placed in
your rucksack to
keep them warm
Entrance
Insulation on seat
The stages of building Top and side view

a shovel-up of a snow grave
A B
Lay rucksacks on the ground Heap snow over the

and cover with a bivi bag rucksacks into a mound
C D Snow
Tunnel in on the leeward side Enlarge the centre and smooth

and remove the rucksacks off the ceiling to prevent drips Insulation: Rucksack, rope etc
and bivi bag
BY ANY MEANS
NECESSARY
WILL COPESTAKE
WORDS: CHRIS KEMPSTER PICTURES: WILL COPESTAKE
We speak to the Scottish adventurer about peak-bagging in winter, kayaking

in Patagonia, and how he makes a full-time living from the outdoors...
G
rowing up in the Highlands, it is no winter. This helped earn him the UK and Scottish
surprise that Will Copestake acquired a Adventurer of the Year Award in 2015, and inspired
taste for outdoor adventure at an early him to follow up with a round of the Corbetts in
age. From wildlife spotting to messing winter in 2016/17. This time part of the aim was to
around in boats on the water, he enjoyed meet new people along the way, to rediscover the joy
the full range of activities locally before heading of sharing adventures in the mountains with others.
overseas for more far-flung adventures, including New More recently, Copestake has been busy with his
Zealand, Iceland and Patagonia. kayak guiding business, splitting his time between
With a desire to get to know his homeland better, Patagonia and Scotland, with several sidelines
Copestake kayaked around the coastline of Scotland including writing, photography and public speaking.
in 2013, before climbing all the Munros in one, We catch up with him during a rare break in his
continuous push, all through a particularly harsh kayak guiding schedule...
Will Copestake
“I often describe Patagonia as
‘Scotland on steroids’ – the
weather is more violent, there are
glaciers and mountains that are
seldom if ever climbed or visited.”
A remote camp in front of

Glaciar Galeria in Patagonia
Will Copestake
You grew up in Ullapool in north west Scotland; beat paper maps.

tell us a bit about your early outdoor
experiences? There must have been many highlights, but tell
Growing up in Ullapool, enjoying the outdoors was always us about one of your stand-out days or summits
a part of my life. As a young child, it started with a during the challenge?
fascination with birds, moths, insects and coastal shore life. It is always hard to choose between the many great
My parents were exceptionally encouraging in this, and we moments that came through the challenge. As the years
took regular walks with the local field club, bird walks pass beyond that trip however I find I am most drawn to
with my father and hours exploring under rocks wherever the ones that came briefly between long stretches of hard
we could lift them. As I got older I, as most local kids, weather. The moments between whiteouts, when it cleared
became involved in dingy sailing with Loch Broom Sailing and offered a view for just a few minutes, were perhaps the
Club, more often than not swimming around upturned most treasured. Of course standing on the ring of steal
boats as much as sailing them. As a teenager, I first looking at Ben Nevis in a cloud inversion at sunset was
discovered river kayaking with friends. It started a lifelong pretty spectacular too.
passion that I still pursue to this day.
You enjoyed this challenge so much, you went
You travelled to New Zealand before going to back to climb all the Corbetts in winter in
Uni; how did the Great Walks you did there 2016/17. What was the idea behind this?
compare to your experiences in Scotland? Returning to the Corbetts was a return to a routine I
This was the first time I travelled alone around the world. missed from the Munros. I wanted to come back to the
For me, trekking the Great Walks was a way to find routine simple pace of life of chasing an arbitrary list of peaks. The
in a rather ad-hoc lifestyle between hitchhiking, camping big change this time was swapping a bike and tent for a
and hostels. Some of the walks felt just like home – wet van. This allowed me to ‘crowd source’ company, offering
and mountainous with tremendous views. Others had the chance for friends and strangers to join me and share
volcanoes, glaciers and parrots to keep me company which the adventure together.
were incredible to see. New Zealand was the first push for
me into solo travel, and largely set me on my path to How did sharing walks with strangers (or ‘new
working in the outdoors. friends’) enhance the experience, compared to
walking solo?
In 2013 you kayaked around Scotland then I find walking alone you have higher highs and lower lows.
climbed all the Munros – how did that idea come Sharing a trip with friends enhances the entire day with a
about? generally great mood. Great days are remembered more
The idea to spend a year exploring Scotland under my own fondly with friends and hard days make a good stories to
power came through a desire to discover my own back reminisce about together once back down in the pub.
yard. I’d discovered through expeditions in New Zealand Overall, friends make fun.
and Iceland that often when asked about home I couldn’t
answer much about my own country. I figured if I paddled How did the weather compare to when you did
around the coast and climbed through the mountains I’d the Munros?
get to experience every variety of Scotland’s landscape, The Corbetts were actually quite a blessed winter. We had
culture and people. relatively little wind and a ‘warm’ year without much snow.
There were snowy days, but nothing like I had seen on the
It was a particularly harsh winter that year; what Munros. Of course it is Scotland so there was a little bit of
did you learn about looking after yourself in everything.
such challenging conditions?
I learned that given enough exposure to cold and wet that Did you have a favourite winter Corbett?
my body would adjust, but to a certain breaking point. I It would be almost certainly one of the peaks in the
learned that there is a big difference between a few days of Ardgour peninsula. It was one of the few areas that I’ve
‘roughing it’ and a few months. To look after myself, I had never really been and I expected it to be fairly tedious.
to budget occasional nights in cheap hostels, which was as What I found were a range of spectacular and challenging
much for a brief chance at company as it was to physically mountains that could challenge any Munro, but they were
thaw out and recover. In big trips your mental health is just far less trodden. As a stand alone peak, it would be Beinn
as important as physical. Blisters and cold burns are easy to Arich Charr north of Torridon, solely for the incredible
patch; a bad mood takes big motivation to heal. view into the Fisherfield mountains. It is tremendous.
Other than staying warm and dry, was navigation When and where did you start kayaking?
the next biggest challenge and how did you deal I started kayaking in the local swimming pool, taught by
with that? my father and local paddling legend Brian Wilson (read
Navigation was definitely the biggest challenge with the Blazing Paddles/Dances with Waves). From here I focused
Munros; I’m not sure I was ever really warm and dry. largely on river kayaking around north west Scotland as a
Thankfully my degree in Environmental Science and teenager with a couple of short overnight trips in sea
Outdoor Education had taught me sufficient navigational kayaks in between. I didn’t really take sea kayaking
skills on the mountain along with my summer Mountain seriously until I started my round Scotland expedition.
Leader. This is of course quite different in extreme winter,
however the skills progress quickly. Of my summits, 49% of What sort of experiences does combining
them had no view what-so-ever, many in total whiteout. kayaking and hiking open up to the adventurous
Compass bearings, counting paces and timing were portager?
essential to safe navigation. I found GPS and phones to die It opens up the gates to some routes and areas that are
almost immediately in the severe wind chill. You still can’t otherwise extremely difficult to access. There is a
“In big trips your mental health
is just as important as physical.
Blisters and cold burns are easy
to patch, a bad mood takes big
motivation to heal.”
growing movement in ‘packrafting’, which offers this at
an easier extent, however I prefer the sheer brutality of
hauling a heavy boat over a long distance. It is true type
two fun, hard and difficult at the time, but extremely
satisfying to complete. I grew a love of this in Patagonia
where it allowed me to access seldom if ever before
paddled glacier lakes.
Tell us a bit about your traverse of Iceland – how

did the terrain and conditions compare to other
places you’ve visited?
Crossing Iceland was my first proper expedition. I did it
with my friend Remi who, like I, was studying at Stirling
on the same course. We were relatively inexperienced, but
skilled enough to try. Iceland was a completely different
environment to what I had seen before. It was open, empty
and volcanic. I will certainly go back to Iceland for more
adventures at a later date.
Patagonia is one of your favourite places – what

it is about the region that attracts you, and do
you see any similarities with Scotland?
Like Iceland, I am attracted to Patagonia for the same
reasons. It is extremely easy to get very remote quite
quickly. I often describe it as ‘Scotland on Steroids’ – the
weather is more violent – there are glaciers and mountains
that are seldom if ever climbed or visited. You have the rare
chance to imagine what it felt like to be an early explorer,
even though we are in modern kit and forecasts. It is
seriously addictive.
How do you make a full-time living from the

outdoors?
For a long time I made my living in the outdoors as a
freelance hillwalking and kayak guide. I lived very
cheaply and saved my pennies to do more budget
adventures, perpetuating a reputation that ultimately
delivered more work. The outdoor industry speaks to
itself a lot and is a self cycle really; if you work hard and
act professionally then work will find you. Nowadays,
I run my own kayak company (www.kayaksummerisles.
com) which is a more regular outdoor career based out
of the north of Scotland. In between these, I also do
freelance professional photography, public speaking
and writing whenever there are quiet periods. Some
winters, I chase seasons around the world to work in
the southern hemisphere, allowing year round
kayaking work.
You’re an accomplished photographer; how did

you learn your trade, from experience or through
help from other photographers or courses?
I first learn photography to show my friends back home
the wonders I saw in New Zealand while travelling alone. I
always tried to take a photo that captured the essence of the
moment rather than just a well composed landscape. Like Summit camping on
any art, photography is not about the technicalities but Beinn Dearg Bheag
the story and feeling it creates. I’ve never really aimed
Will Copestake
Will summiting An Teallach
at sunrise, winter 2018
to have my own style, but I learned some great tips dry. I like the ability to easily pitch them in extreme
from my godfather Ben Osborne (2007 Wildlife winds with big gloves on. Mostly it is their customer
Photographer of the Year). Mostly, it is small hints and service that I rave about, they are always willing to go
advice that people have given through a career of travel that above and beyond to help out their clients when
have developed my photography – that and a LOT of bad something wears out. On average however I’d expect to
photos deleted in the process. get over 500 nights use before giving them a call on one
of their tents – they’ll last a lifetime. I like the Soulo for
You won the Scottish and UK Adventurer of solo travel in the mountains. It is small to pack but
the Year award in 2015; did this open any doors spacious inside. Having lived in one for a year, and even
for you? shared one with a friend for seven weeks (after his Terra
It was a surprise to win the award and certainly a nice Nova tent ripped in half) – I can say they are great bits
recognition of a challenging year. I would say it certainly of kit. For sea kayaking, I like the Allak which offers a
opened up a lot of interesting guiding jobs in areas I would little more space. In kayaking, I find a free standing tent
be unlikely to have gone otherwise. It allowed a stepping offers the most options, especially when camping on
stone to get my name above a sea of freelance guides in a rocky promontories or loose shingle beaches where
competitive industry. I hope to keep building on this as my pitching a tunnel tent is harder.
path continues forward.
What other essential gear could you not live
What’s your take on social media, and how without?
important (or not) is it to you? Excluding the essentials, such as tent, sleeping bag, mat,
Social media is an odd phenomenon isn’t it? On one stove and so on, I’d thoroughly recommend anyone
hand, I’ll freely admit I’m a little addicted to it and get pursuing an extended outdoor adventure to invest in a
a buzz from a successful post. To a degree I make a good tarp. It is the biggest change I’d make to my Scotland
portion of my living from it – it generates speaking and trip, which I didn’t have one for. The Hilleberg 10UL
writing opportunities and 30% of our kayak summer isles tarp is my go to which gives the chance to stay outside
sales last year came via Instagram and approximately the in the dry when camping, far better than cramming into
same from Facebook. On the other hand, I completely a tent. I’m also partial to a fresh coffee brew and love
detest it. Part of what I like on my big expeditions is the the Aeropress.
complete detachment from any online media for a few
weeks or a month – it’s incredibly healthy for the mind. What does the future hold for you? Any big
Perhaps society needs to consider social media like challenges in the pipeline?
alcohol or fatty foods, healthy in small portions but The future is full of exciting opportunities ahead. In the
dangerous to binge on. Northern summer, I’ll be continuing to build Kayak
Summer Isles, offering the chance to adventure in northern
You’ve been using Hilleberg tents for a long Scotland. In winter, I have a few expeditions in the
time – what is it about the brand and the pipeline. The next one, naval permission pending, will be
particular models you use that makes them an attempt to sea kayak 800km from Punta Arenas to Cape
suitable for your trips/activities? Horn. Keep an eye out for more adventure plans coming
I have long loved Hilleberg tents for my adventures. What I soon too!
find special about Hilleberg tents is the little details that Room with
make a big difference. External first pitching is essential in Will Copestake uses Hilleberg tents – for more a view...
wet climates as it allows the inner tent to always remain info, go to www.hilleberg.com
Will Copestake
A WALK ON
THE QUIET SIDE
With teahouses now available on the route, a trek to Makalu Base Camp
is a good option for independent trekkers – Kathi Habermann
and James Cruikshank describe their recent visit there…
WORDS & PICTURES: KATHI HABERMANN, JAMES CRUIKSHANK
Hiking behind Makalu Base Camp Lodge

at 5400m, with the mountain itself behind
Kathi cooking her one-Euro Everest, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar, taken
eggs in the teahouse from above Makalu Base Camp
T
he Makalu Base Camp Trek is one of After an easy flight from Europe, we spent only be purchased at the Park Office on the
the quieter and less developed trails in two days in Kathmandu to enjoy Nepali trek in Seduwa. Once back at the serene
Nepal. Before a couple of years ago, culture and feel the Buddhist vibes. Landing Boudhanath stupa we enjoyed a beautiful
difficult regulations and special permits were in the capital was great with the new sunset and watched the Tibetan refugees’ light
needed to trek in the Barun Valley, with the immigration policy that was created after the butter lamps. The upper central tower of the
result that only organised camping treks or big 2015 earthquake – it has made things stupa is painted with the all-seeing eyes of
expeditions with the goal of climbing 7000m much smoother for tourists. We simply filled Buddha, and legend has it that the stupa
and 8000m peaks in the area accessed it. After out forms on the touchscreens, proceeded to a contains a bone of his finger. That was a
the 2015 earthquake, however, the local payment counter for our tourist visa and perfect place to adjust to this different culture
community created infrastructure for an walked over to the immigration desk and were before heading into the mountains.
independent teahouse trek to Makalu Base stamped into Nepal.
Camp, so now the intrepid nature lover could With some time to explore Kathmandu, we GETTING TO THE START
enjoy a remote multi-day adventure through walked through Durbar square which is still There are two options to get to the starting
diverse and pristine wilderness, with forests of under reconstruction, ate momos in Freak point of the Makalu Base Camp: either plane
25 species of rhododendron, 47 types of Street, drank milk tea, wandered the alleyways, and jeep, or bus and jeep, the fastest way being
orchids, juniper and fir, snowy passes above visited Vaisha Dev (the tooth ache tree), the flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar. It is
4100m, high alpine meadows and incredible exchanged money, left an offering for Ganesh best to go in the morning, as the weather is
mountain vistas. This unique landscape (god of wisdom and prosperity) and shopped more stable than later in the day. For people
shelters some of the last pristine mountain for snacks for our upcoming self-supported with time or who don't enjoy flying, the two-
ecosystems on earth, but for all its grandeur teahouse trek. There was no need to organize a day-long bus trip is a long but rewarding
planning a trek in this part of Nepal is not TIMS permit since the Makalu Base Camp option. There is so much to see and experience
difficult, and the trekking is accessible, Trek only requires foreigners to pay the on the road. The bus passes the countryside
affordable, and absolutely unforgettable. Makalu Barun National Park fee, which can and various villages of the hot lowlands that
“The Barun Valley provides stunning contrasts, where high waterfalls

cascade into deep gorges, craggy rocks rise from lush green forests,
and colourful flowers bloom beneath white snowy peaks. ”
border India, constantly stopping for new on dirt roads. No matter if it is a bus, mini van houses, cross roads, and to be friendly along
passengers and to let on vendors selling cold or jeep, the Nepali way is to jam as many the trail because the return journey would be
snacks and warm drinks. Eventually the bus people into one vehicle as possible. We once the same track; this was some good info and
arrived in the big town of Dharan were we ended up with 30 people sitting and standing served us well.
spent the evening exploring the cool hillside inside and hanging outside of a mini van. After the long travel days, it was a perfect
town and shopping for the various extras for Another time, we were 11 in a normal-sized place to stay for one night, and start early the
the trek, such as anti-inflammatories, headache jeep plus a couple of passengers on the roof. next morning. The walking began with a
pills, chlorine dioxide (for water purification), The locals are an average height of 160cm and 700m steep descent through thick humid
antibiotics for amoebic and parasitic infections they seem to feel comfortable in those packed jungle to the roaring Arun river, followed by
(Tinidazole), high altitude medication boxes. Thus, the days on the road in Nepal are the first steep climb, 700m up to Seduwa. This
(Diamox), chocolate bars, snacks, nuts, dried both adventurous and agony, especially for part of the trek is still very populated, with
fruit, instant coffee, tea and soap. those of us with long legs. the blue roofs of houses and farms spread on
At 7am we had a breakfast of jeri puri The trek’s start point is Num, a pretty town the hills. We met Sherpas, Gurung and Rai
(small, puffy, fried flat breads with a sweet on the back of a little mountain with some people who were walking up and down
mild-spicy, chick pea curry), and began the teahouses, shops and lots of kids on the street. between the villages to do their chores. One
day's journey towards the Tumlingtar airport It was already 2pm when we arrived and the man had just come from the market in Num
and the town of Khadbari. During the long afternoon clouds were swirling around, so we with an oinking ‘chola’ around his shoulders.
160km journey, we came across green rice opted to rest for the afternoon and drank He had just purchased the little black pig in
terraces, banana trees, mud houses, smiling sugary masala milk tea and ate samosa snacks. the weaved basked (the local way to carry
faces, and medieval fairy tale images . We chatted to a Swiss man who had just live animals).
From Tumlingtar you have to travel six returned from Makalu Base Camp and he was The next bigger town, Seduwa (1500m), sits
hours by jeep to the village of Num. As with radiating a huge smile, and sunburnt nose. He exactly opposite of Num. That is where
all land travel, it is a cramped and shaky ride told us to make mental notes about shops, tea the brightly-painted Makalu Barun
Porters leaving Dobato Hotel on the
trek down into the Barun Valley
National Park office is based. We paid our

entry fee and read the information on the
walls. The name ‘Makalu’ is derived from the
Sanskrit Maha Kala, a name for the Hindu
god Shiva that translates ‘Big Black’. One of the
14 eight-thousanders, Makalu (8468m) is an
isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided
pyramid. The park has 2330 square kilometres
and is bordered by the Arun River in the east
and the Sagarmatha National Park in the west.
The Barun Valley is a sanctuary for wild
animals such as red panda, musk deer, wild
boar, lynx, fox and the elusive snow leopard. It
provides stunning contrasts, where high
waterfalls cascade into deep gorges, craggy
rocks rise from lush green forests, and
colourful flowers bloom beneath white snowy
peaks. Rare species of animals and plants
flourish in diverse climates and habitats,
relatively undisturbed by human kind. The
grand vistas include views of Makalu,
Chamlang (7319m), Baruntse (7129m), Mera
Peak (6654m) and Hongkuchuli (6833m).
After picking one of the four lodges spread
around Seduwa, we sat down with the three
curious kids of the hosting lady for a huge dal
bhat with tasty jungle fern vegetables
(fiddleheads) and, for us, a jug of chang
(home-made 3% millet beer).
SHIPTON LA
The second hiking day began early with the
aim of finding a shop with a chai and the last
sil roti (a fried rice flour donut), before
walking through local villages, past small
farms with rice, millet, carrots, potatoes,
bananas, mustard, onions and chickens. The
trail up to Tashigoan is still lively, with the
locals travelling between the towns, and
donkey caravans bringing goods up the trail.
Tashigoan (2100m) is the last town, with a
school and 30 houses surrounded by lush
gardens, green farmlands and water buffalos. showed us the Nepali way of eating dal bhat The Hotel Dobato and Guest House is the
Once we’d passing the last buildings, we with the left hand, shared her passion for local only building in Dobato (3800m). Two
arrived at a lonely tea shop or lodge every two birds, mimicked their sounds, cooked us yak friendly eyes and a big smile welcomed us into
to four hours depending on our pace. meat and gave us home-made raksi. Raksi is the lodge where a warm fire was sizzling in
Many years ago the trail existed mainly for a strong alcoholic drink made from barley the little Nepali stove. Pemba Sherpa was
the yak herders to keep the animals on the or rice; the distillation process is rudimentary already waiting for us. His wife Pasang had
other side of the Shipton La Pass in the and the alcohol percentage is higher than informed him that we left her house in the
summers. Today, two families are running the western spirits – singing Nepalese songs helps morning. We dried our gear at the fireplace,
businesses along the trek, and after a couple of it go down easier! sharing the warmth and stories of the day
days hiking, you will get to know the whole We started early the next morning as the with two French trekkers who where the only
family including the grandfathers, cousins, weather was set to deteriorate later in the day. other guests.
uncles, aunties, brother, sisters and Snow was falling and we hiked through the The next morning, Pemba had his kitchen
grandchildren that are spread along the trek. white clouds. Our lungs and legs had to work ready for our obligatory power breakfast –
Some of them are alpinists who have climbed hard to gain the metres. Fortunately, one of the sunny side-up eggs with hot Tibetan bread
Everest, some are yak herders, trekking guides, guides from an expedition group overtook us and milk tea. The sun came up from the peaks
teachers and – most importantly for the and stomped a track up to Shipton La. It took behind the house. The weather looked
trekkers – some are really excellent cooks. us three hours to climb over the Tutu La pass promising for the next leg, which passed
In Khongma (3500m), we chose to stay at (4055m) and reach a small teahouse on top of through a massive rhododendron forest down
the Shiva View Hut which is one of the three the Shipton La pass (4220m). After a hot into the Barun Valley and then up the Barun
options and run by Pasang Sherpa. This noodle soup we descended through snow to River. Dry and rocky, the single track trail
charming lady is a great host. She loves to sit some lakes and a few abandoned stone traversed the steep hillside which is prone to
around the fireplace with her guests singing buildings (good for an emergency shelter) landslides. The fresh scars were evident and
and talking. We liked it there and decided to before climbing up comfortable stone stairs to this part took a lot of energy and
stay for an extra acclimatisation day to rest Keke La pass (4152m) and back down 300m concentration to get passed. After the stressful
Hongku Chuli (6833m) in the background, as the weary trekker takes
before tackling the hardest part of the of a snow-filled gully, past
an early morning walk beautiful red
at 5200m to trail navigation, we needed a rest and stopped
get closer to the mountain
trek – the crossing of Shipton La. Pasang rhododendron blossoms, to the next stop. at a teahouse (3500m) in a wide open grassy
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The teahouse at Kharka where over 100 yaks
had been moved for the summer season
area (Kharka) to watch the hairy and gentle Hongku Chuli (6833m) which hovered above the moss and tundra we lay down. The
yaks play, eat and grunt. The way continued the Barun River. At the open scrubland of mountains shimmered in the warming air and
along the river via a newly-constructed trail. Shersong (4600m), we took a break to eat seemed to kiss our cheeks they were so close.
We arrived quickly at the stunning Yangle cheap, sugary Nepalese biscuits and turned We spent the morning wandering around the
Kharka (3800m) which consists of The Makalu north towards Makalu as the micro- barren ridge, eating some cold chapatis in the
Barun Hotel and Guest House, a gompa and a environment of high alpine desert emerged. warm sun. For those who want to, there’s the
small house for yak herders and porters. This These dramatic, icy mountain vistas are so opportunity to walk along the glacier and hike
wide valley was surrounded by windswept impressive and make you forget all the up to the Swiss Col at 5400m to get another
forests and high, snow-covered mountains tortures from the preceding days. great perspective of the mountains.
above the granite cliffs that drop to the valley It was much easier to hike down the trail as
floor. The newly-built hut was comfortable REACHING BASE CAMP we were stronger and more used to the
with a nice dining room and the best pasta we Makalu Base Camp is in a dry desert bowl altitude now after having spent 10 days at over
ate during the trek. Here we caught up on the with hardly any other people to be seen, and 3000m. The second crossing of the Shipton La
trail gossip and learned that a Nepali cook only the abandoned base camps of expeditions Pass was done in ankle-deep snow, and we
who had slipped on an icy bridge a couple of on Makalu and a few buildings to be seen. made a mental note that gaiters could have
days before had to bus back to Kathmandu Leaving our bags in the stark room at the Yak made things more comfortable. It is possible
with his still unfixed broken leg. Guest House, we ordered some boiled to skip some stops and go back to Num faster
After a fantastic night’s sleep, we set off to potatoes and black tea. We sat on chairs than ascending to the base camp. Once in
trek over 4000m again to reach Khongmale outside, looked up at Mount Makalu and the Num, we were able to catch the 2pm jeep to
Kharka. This was even more stunning as the huge mountains that surrounded us. By 8pm Khadbari and by 7pm we were showered,
valley widened, the granite walls grew higher we retired to bed for some strange, altitude- unpacked and sitting in the Barun Valley
and more enormous peaks became visible. induced dreams and experienced awaking at Hotel eating momos, chips, cake and ice
The track followed the river and climbed night gasping for breath. cream. From Khadbari, it is only a 20-minute
through vibrant, magical forests. Snow began Rising at 5am to see the sunrise, we hiked a taxi ride to the airport and a 45-minute flight
falling lightly but once we exited into the steep slope up a faint winding trail behind the to get back to Kathmandu.
open area it got thicker and the winds lodge to a ridge (5100m). This took just over It had been almost three weeks since we’d
stronger, so we decided to stop for a tea and an hour. The skies were clear and we were able left Kathmandu, and we were fitter, healthier,
biscuit break under the shelter of a huge to study all the small cliffs, ice formations, stronger, and felt happy and a bit enlightened
crystalline granite boulder for an hour. The snowy sharp ridge lines, and rocky peaks. by the experience of walking amongst earth’s
storm calmed down and we marched up to Across from us towered the impressive solo highest mountains. There never was a problem
the Khongmale Kharka Lodge (4100m). peak of Mount Makalu (8468m) with its icy finding water, but purification tablets were
The base camp was close, only seven rocks faces and hanging blue glaciers. necessary. Once back in Kathmandu, it was
kilometres away and the promise of better Then looking towards the Swiss Col to see calming to watch the Nepalese pray, meditate,
weather once we passed Shersong (a small yak Lhotse (8516m), Lhotse Shar (8382m), the burn incense, leave offerings, and act kindly to
herders’ hut) was alluring. Awaking at 6am to large, flat triangle peak of Everest (8848m) animals and other human beings. The trek to
eat, pack and start trekking, we were able to behind them, and Nuptse (7861m) far away in Makalu Base Camp was challenging but not
walk slowly in the sun along the deserted the bottom of the mountain valley. The round too difficult, and the people we met along the
single track, enjoying long pauses laying in the alpine chickens ran around on the high ridge way really made this a special experience. They
grass beside the trail. At 10am we began squeaking. We marvelled at the enormity of were excellent hosts, genuinely tolerant, and
trekking again and the pyramid-shaped the peaks, and once the frost had melted off very smiley humans – it is truly infectious.
THE KNOWLEDGE
MAKALU BASE CAMP TREK: What you need to know before you go
HOW TO GET THERE

Flights from KTM to
Tumlingtar, 30 minutes
Bus to Dharan 14 hours.
Dharan to Tumlingtar by 4x4,
8 hours.
www.yetiairlines.com
www.buddhaair.com
Bus company:
www.facebook.com/
primedeluxeAC/
Prime Bus – Kathmandu to
Dharan, 1200rs.
Jeep Dharan to Khandbari,
t
1000rs.
t t
Makalu 8491
Jeep Khadbari to Num,
600rs.
Once in Tumlingtar it is a
short taxi ride to Khabari.
Overnight here. It will take nepalimmigration.gov.np/ to the trek. You will sleep in lodge locations, trails, and
another four-hour shared page/tourist-visa) for one of these lodges every names. These are minor
4x4 taxi ride. Num is the more info. night and you eat most of mistakes, but the maps
start point of the Makalu Permits for the Makalu your meals in them too. The themselves are okay. The
Base Camp Trek and no Barun National Park can only teahouses usually have a Makalu Base Camp Trek
vehicles past this town. be bought in Seduwa and small store that sell crisps, is described in Cicerone’s
cost 3000rs plus 13% VAT= Snickers bars, expedition ‘Trekking in the Himalayas’
3390rs. No TIMS permit is leftovers, beer and Cokes. guidebook, along with 19
VISAS & PERMITS needed. The oicial park Most tea houses cost around other classic treks (www.
Nepal visas are easy to get at entrance is in Seduwa and 500rs. per night and can cicerone.co.uk)
KTM Tribhuvan International there are no other check be booked upon arrival, or
Airport. Just ill out a form points once inside the park even from the lodge below
then go to a counter to boundaries. as everyone is related and WHAT TO TAKE
get it stamped; then go to always talking on their The lodges have blankets,
another counter to pay and mobile phones. The usual but they are not washed
get it stamped again. 15 day WHERE TO STAY set-up is a small room very often, so take your own
visas cost 25 USD, 30 days Makalu has easy trails and with two twin beds and a sleeping bag (-50C). Merino
cost 40 USD and 90 days the teahouses bring an shared bathroom that is socks and baselayers, down
cost 100 USD. Go to www. entirely new level of comfort outside. Blankets may be jacket, waterproof jacket,
provided but it is better to quick dry pants, high altitude
bring a sleeping bag or, at meds (if required), irst aid
a minimum, a sleeping bag kit, sunscreen, sunglasses,
liner. In Kathmandu, the trekking poles, hat with brim.
authors stayed at the Dragon
Guest House Mahankal,
Budha-6 (nfragon@ntc.net. WHO TO GO WITH
np). It costs 1000rs. for a This trek is eminently
double room with inside possible for experienced
bathroom, in a quiet area hillwalkers and backpackers,
with nice big grass garden, however, if you wish to go
and near the Shechen with an organised group then
Monastery. there are several UK-based
companies that ofer a
Makalu itinerary, including
MAPS & GUIDEBOOKS Mountain Kingdoms
Be aware that the maps (www.mountainkingdoms.
that are produced in Nepal com), Jagged Globe (www.
have some slightly wrong jagged-globe.co.uk) and The
information, such as Mountain Company (www.
elevation measurements, themountaincompany.co.uk)
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Choose between an annual

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Go to www.pocketmags.com/trek-and-mountain-magazine
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 GEAR
Gear
IN-DEPTH REVIEWS AND ADVICE FROM THE T&M TEST TEAM
Our
promise
At Trek & Mountain, we
believe that buying gear
that is both high quality and
appropriate for the activities it
is to be used for is vital to our
readers’ enjoyment and safety in
the mountains. For this reason,
we test clothing and equipment to
the best of our ability; in the right
WINTER conditions and environments,

for long enough periods to make
realistic assessments, and
GEAR highlighting both good and bad

points irrespective of whether a
brand advertises with us or not.
GUIDE That is our promise to you.
P74
85
84
85
86
OUR TEST TEAM 84

Meet this month’s T&M gear testers
JON DORAN WILL HARRIS CHRIS

Jon is one of the Will is a Chamonix- KEMPSTER
most experienced based aspirant T&M’s editor and
gear testers in the
business, and can
Mountain Guide
who has been
founder enjoys a
wide variety of
Rab Ladakh
usually be found
wandering the
on numerous
expeditions
mountain sports,
from climbing to GTX P71
Peak District hills. around the world. ski touring.
GEAR NEWS
Gear News
We round up the latest stories from the world of outdoor clothing and equipment
Hilleberg launch pole-less tent

adventures, say the Anaris’s sides can
Hilleberg. The Anaris be fully rolled up. Like
weighs 1.4 kg and has a all of Hilleberg’s tents,
generous 2.6m2 of the Anaris has linked
inner tent area and inner and outer tents,
over 110 cm of allowing either
headroom. It also offers simultaneous pitching
flexibility; both inner or separate use. Used
tent entrance walls, on its own, the outer
including the doors, are tent is a supercharged
‘no-see-um’ mesh, tarp, thanks to its
which, along with the multiple options for
catenary patterning on rolling the ends or the
Swedish tentmakers will be available in the suitable for 3-season the outer tent walls, sides. And the inner
par excellence spring of 2020, is built (snow free) use, and its ensure excellent tents full mesh ends
Hilleberg are launching to pitch with trekking combination of light airflow. Both doors on make it a great choice
a lightweight, ridge- poles or by suspending weight, simplicity and both vestibules can be for bug protection in
style tent that is the ridge ends from comfort make it ideal partially or fully rolled hot weather.
erected using your trees or other supports. for backpacking and away, allowing even
walking poles. The new The Anaris is a Yellow similar warmer weather more venting options, More info: www.
2-person Anaris, which Label tent, so is backcountry and either or both of hilleberg.com
NEW PETZL WINTER GEAR

Petzl have updated their range either mono or dual points to sections, allowing you to
of winter equipment with be selected due to its modular transform glacier travel or
several new models, the first of design and, in fact, comes with mountaineering models into
which is an updated DART four front point options: crampons for ice/mixed/dry
crampon. The DART and mono-point short or tooling. The DART is supplied
DARTWIN crampons have mono-point long, for ice with LEVERLOCK FIL bindings
been popular choices for pure climbing and dry tooling; for fully-rigid boots and is
ice climbing for many years, asymmetrical dual-point for compatible with the FIL SMALL
and now the benefits of both pure ice; or dual-point for snow toe bail for narrow boots.
have been brought together in couloirs and gullies. The DART What do you use for
the new DART crampon is compatible with Petzl’s threading Abalakov anchors? A
(£205). The new model allows universal rear crampon length of bent coat-hanger
wire? Well now there’s another carrying pouch for storing up

DART (below), MULTIHOOK option from Petzl called the to 12 ice screws, compatible
(right) and OCTO (above) MULTIHOOK, a multi-function, with screws 9cm to 21cm in
foldable threading tool length and 18mm in diameter.
(£28.00). It’ll thread an ice Its wallet-fold design gives easy
anchor up to 25cm in depth, access, there’s a retention tab
and its serrated blade easily to hold the screws in place, and
cuts ropes and cords for those a mesh pocket for accessories
‘Touching The Void’ moments. (file, spare picks etc). The
It can be used to clear the tube mesh construction allows
of an ice screw, and carried screws to dry and the pouch
folded in a pocket or clipped to can be suspended without
your harness. removing the contents, for a
The OCTO (£23.50) is a practical drying solution.
large-capacity protective More info: www.petzl.com
FRICTION
FREE
SPOT X ADDS BLUETOOTH
MOVEMENT You can pair the SPOT X
As the newest member of the
SPOT family of devices, SPOT
directly with first responders in
an emergency. Globalstar claim
Bluetooth with your phone X with Bluetooth wireless that SPOT X is the only satellite
technology offers two-way messenger on the market to
SMS and email messaging as give users a permanent phone
well as GPS tracking and a number, free incoming
one-touch SOS button that messages, easy check-in
instantly sends the user’s function and a full, backlit
GPS location to the GEOS QWERTY keypad for intuitive
International Emergency typing. They also say it offers
Response Coordination Centre the industry’s longest battery
(IERCC) over the Globalstar life in both tracking and
satellite network. The IERCC SOS modes.
then transmits details to local “The vast majority of our
first responders to dispatch current customers already take
help to the user’s precise their mobile phones on their
location. SPOT has played a adventures,” said David Kagan,
role in more than 6,900 CEO at Globalstar.
rescues around the globe, “Adding Bluetooth capability to
A new cream intended to many of which were life-saving, SPOT X allows users to
help those who suffer from the company says. seamlessly connect their
chafing has been Users can message directly smartphone and use an
developed by German from the SPOT X device or use intuitive interface to send and
company PureTrail. Tobias the new SPOT X app that also receive messages over the
Krumm, the founder of features unlimited use of 14 Globalstar satellite network.
Pure Trail and developer of pre-programmed messages SPOT X operates for up to 10
the Skinprotec cream, is and access to the contacts on days on a single charge, with or
an ultra marathon runner a user’s smartphone, making it without a paired phone.”
himself and says: “Nothing easy to communicate with
is more frustrating than family, friends, colleagues or More info: www.findmyspot.eu
having to give up a race
due to sore skin or blisters
rather than having reached
Firmware update for Mammut’s Barryvox

the limit of you physical
endurance.” And because
he himself had suffered
this fate, he started a
search for a solution to the Mammut is updating avalanche transceiver’s
age old problem of shoes its popular Barryvox technical capabilities
and clothing rubbing avalanche transceiver and looking for
against skin, and skin-on- with the new BarryHeart innovative solutions
skin contact. 3.2 device-to-device that make it significantly
Anti-friction creams,
firmware upgrade which easier for users to
lotions and balms were
already available of course, will optimise the battery learn new functions,
but having tried them all life and allow even more which in turn makes it
Tobias found them all accurate measurements easier to use the device
lacking in some way. He with a simplified visual safely and quickly in
decided that what was user interface. The an emergency,” explains
required was a high
updated version now Ilari Dammert, the
performance product that
fulfilled the needs of the
provides rescuers Senior Product Manager
runner in all types of with even faster and of Avalanche Safety at
conditions; a product that more precise guidance Mammut Sports
is resistant to sweat, water, with signal analysis Group.
dirt and sand with wide and the fine search – Barryvox devices can
ranging functionality and
in particular when be updated with the
excellent skin
compatibility. The simple
searching for older firmware upgrade (R3.2
idea was to create a new avalanche transceivers. for Barryvox and
cream composition that The update also Barryvox S and R4.2
fulfilled these needs, and improves the battery for Pulse Barryvox)
after three years of power display and independently of
development and testing,
optimises battery life, network or service point
during which Skinprotec
has been used for over
in particular in very access. BarryHeart 3.2 is
20,000km, his product is cold temperatures. available now and can be
now available to buy. We The new firmware installed free of charge
have been sent a sample focuses on the intuitive at a MAMMUT Service
to test out, so we’ll let you operation and Centre or specialist
know how we get on!
functionality of retailer.
More info: www.
the device. Barryvox gets
skinprotec.com “We are constantly new heart More info: www.
developing the mammut.ch
GEAR FIRST LOOK RAB LADAKH GTX
Spec sheet
Rab Ladakh GTX Jacket
Weight: 530g (men’s medium)
Fabrics: Gore-Tex Pro 70D and

C-KNIT 40D
Hood: 3-way adjustable helmet

hood with wired and laminated peak
Zips: YKK AquaGuard on pockets

and pitzips
Pockets: 2 x handwarmers, 1 x
chest, 1 internal
Fit: Regular
More info: www.rab.equipment
Rab Ladakh
GTX Jacket
£350
As Rab launch their first range
of Gore-Tex jackets this winter,
Jon Doran checks out a fully-
featured mountain shell that’ll suit
many hillwalkers and mountaineers
New for this winter, Rab mountain shell made entirely lighter panels, is made from reassurance of having the
has a range of four men’s from 70D Gore-Tex Pro, the Gore-Tex with the C-KNIT tougher fabric in areas that rub
and three women’s waterproof Muztag uses a mix of Gore-Tex backer. It’s a lighter 40D weight against rocks and pack straps.
shells made using Gore-Tex Pro and Gore-Tex Active for material that feels pleasantly In the long term it won’t be as
fabrics. It’s a bit of a departure more breathability and has a soft and doesn’t have the durable as a Latok, but for most
for the brand, which has slimmer ‘active’ cut, while the distinctive crackle of the of us, that won’t be a major
previously used non-Gore workhorse Kangri GTX is a tougher Pro version. The darker issue. You save a handy 50g too,
fabrics for its top-end no-nonsense mountain-walking areas, however, use tough 70D and the jacket’s a not
waterproofs (note: you can still shell made from straight Pro, effectively the shoulders unreasonable 530g in a
buy Rab jackets made from 3-layer standard Gore-Tex and yoke, outer sleeves and top- medium, about the same as
Pertex Shield fabrics). Some of and isn’t helmet compatible. panel and peak of the hood. It similar shells from rival brands.
the jackets, the Latok for There are women’s versions all makes the jacket feel nicer,
example, carry over their names of all of these apart from the but it’s also significantly quieter FIT AND FEATURES
and function from last year, but Latok GTX. in use than a full Pro jacket. It Rab has used the new Gore-Tex
the Ladakh GTX is an all-new All of which makes the won’t be as tough, but for most range as an opportunity to
design which uses tough Ladakh a potentially ideal users that’s arguably not a refine its cut, it says. The
Gore-Tex Pro fabrics in high- choice if you’re someone who major factor. As a combination, Ladakh is a relatively roomy fit;
wear areas, but softer, quieter does a bit of everything, home I’d say it works pretty well. not loose, exactly, but not as
Gore-Tex C-KNIT for the main and/or abroad. It has most of Breathability is fine until you fitted as some, and with plenty
body of the jacket. It’s a the Latok’s features and design really put the hammer down, at of room to layer it over a
mountain all-rounder with a full touches, but in a more which point you can still medium warm insulated jacket
helmet hood that’s aimed to affordable, slightly lighter – implement ‘operation pit-zip’. like its own micro-baffled
work anywhere from UK hills about 50g less – and quieter The C-KNIT fabric is really quiet Cirrus. One neat touch is an
through to full-on alpine package. Or that’s the theory. in use, even with the hood up, internal, adjustable half
mountaineering. which may sound like a minor waist-cord, which lets you cinch
To put it in perspective, FABRICS thing, but Pro really can be the jacket in around the lower
the Latok is Rab’s full-on, The Ladakh uses two Gore-Tex distractingly loud on a windy back when you don’t need that
professional use, super serious fabrics. The main body, the day. And finally you still get the extra volume. My only misgiving
with that is that the fabric rucks Those hand-pockets also get
up along the cord and could internal shaping so they can
potentially in the long term handle 3D objects as well as flat
suffer abrasion from a pack. ones. Nice touch. Last but not
The jacket’s a good, medium least, there’s a smaller, internal
length for protection without zipped chest pocket on the
restriction and it gets Rab’s right, ideal for a phone or wallet,
characteristically long sleeves though you have to open the
for unrestricted climbing use. main zip to access it.
Those with shorter arms might Finally on the feature front,
want to try before buying. As you get decently long, easy-to-
you’d expect, hem and cuffs use, two-way pit-zips for those
are all fully adjustable with overheating moments. The
neat one-handed tensioners zip-pulls are different on each
and hook-and-loop fittings zip, so you can differentiate
respectively. The back of the between them by feel, which
cuff is extended for extra can save fumbling. It’s a nice
glove protection and there’s idea that makes life a little
enough opening for them to easier and works even when
fit over full winter gauntlet- wearing thick winter gloves.
style gloves.
Arguably the Ladakh’s IN USE Hood is excellent, with
trump card is a superb, Rab has always made really or without a helmet
helmet-compatible hood. It’s well-engineered mountain
big enough to swallow a shells, but adding Gore-Tex
climbing lid, while still giving dependability opens up the windy. As someone who runs an excellent all-round, all-
plenty of facial coverage and brand to people who wouldn’t hot, I generally prefer a snugger weather shell that you can
allowing easy head movement. otherwise have considered it. cut, but the waist-cord adds happily use for UK hill and
Normally the pay-off for that is I’ve been using the Ladakh some leeway there, and if you mountain walking, but thanks to
compromised performance through some truely gruesome do habitually use thicker that excellent helmet-
with a bare head, but in this late autumn/early winter insulation under a shell in compatible hood, will also take
case, a new third adjustment deluge conditions and it’s colder conditions, there’s plenty on higher, more technical stuff if
at the base of the neck does kept me reliably dry and of space to allow that. Finally needed. And all without added
double duty of reducing comfortable. The hood is it’s not the lightest or most snap, crackle and pop.
effective volume and also brilliant, and gives you the packable jacket out there, but
pulling in the front cords, so option of wearing a helmet too. it’s not absurdly heavy either. More info: www.rab.
there’s no slack ends to The features all work. Build Overall I’d say the Ladakh is equipment
smack you in the face – neat. quality seems spot on and the
It’s all topped up with a trade-off of the circular knit
serious stiffened and wired C-KNIT backer used for most of
peak for extra rain protection. the jacket is that it’s soft, quiet Verdict
Just an excellent, no-nonsense and very wearable.
Thoroughly designed, dependably
hood design with or without If you’ve ever winced at the waterproof mountain shell with an
a helmet. snap, crackle and pop excellent hood with or without a helmet,
Finally you get as many soundtrack that goes with Pro, and plenty of space for additional
pockets as most folk will ever you’ll be pleasantly surprised. insulation layers
want: two huge hand ones Of course you don’t get the
neatly protected by slanted same ultimate durability as you PROS: Lots of pocket capacity Decent balance between comfort and
laminated storm-flaps plus a would with, say, the tank-like durability Relatively quiet jacket A simply excellent hood
big, Napoleon-style lefthand 100% Pro Latok GTX, but if you CONS: Half waist-cord bunches fabric which could wear
Generous fit won’t suit everyone Not as durable as full Gore-Tex Pro,
chest-pocket that’ll happily take don’t need it, it makes the though the Latok GTX is available for those who want it
a pair of gloves or a map jacket a much more pleasant
without signs of indigestion. experience. Particularly if it’s
Internal pocket is ideal for Two types of zip pull on Ladakh uses YKK Aqua- Over-sized zip pull makes
your phone or wallet the pit-zips aid operation Guard water-resistant zips zipping with gloves easy
GEAR WINTER GEAR GUIDE
WINTER GEAR GUIDE
TREK & MOUNTAIN GEAR GUIDE
WINTER
CLIMBING AND
MOUNTAINEERING
Will Harris gives a run down on all the kit you
need to go winter mountaineering, from clothing
and footwear to climbing hardware...
Climbing and We all do different things in
mountaineering in the the mountains in winter, and
British winter can be a whilst much of the core gear
harsh and demanding used is the same, when we
experience. Unlike our specialise we need different
continental cousins, the tools, so in our discussion
scale of our mountains and below we use mountaineering
the frequency of bad to mean winter hillwalking and
weather mean that we go easy pitched climbing, and
out in the hills in wild climbing to refer to steeper
conditions, often combining pitches from Scottish grade
cold, wind and moisture. III upwards.
Anyone who has walked Winter climbing requires a lot
through the rain to reach the of gear, the weight of which can
snowline will know exactly add up fast. Keeping everything
what we’re dealing with. The light makes the walk in more
gear we use needs to be pleasant, but it’s vital that
correspondingly tough, and important safety gear isn’t left
we need to be completely self behind when heading out into a
sufficient, meaning that extra tough environment where
safety kit needs to be carried. conditions change fast.
WINTER GEAR GUIDE
CLOTHING & PERSONAL KIT

A versatile layering system is needed to keep you dry and comfortable
during the different intensities of activity that a winter day will involve,
from fast uphill walking to long sedentary belay sessions.
Belay Jacket: An extra

warm, big insulated Shell: A quality water-
jacket, such as the Rab proof jacket that allows
Photon Pro Jacket good freedom of
(below) goes over the top movement and has a
of every thing whilst hood that fits over your
stood still. In damp helmet, such as The
conditions synthetic North Face Summit L5
insulation is much better Futurelight Jacket (left)
than even the latest is needed. Make sure
hydrophobic down. that it stays tucked into
your harness when
raising arms overhead,
and that sleeves keep
your wrists covered when
reaching up. Waterproof
salopettes offer great
protection, meaning
that you won’t get a cold
gap between trousers
and jackets. Softshell
outer layers are great
to climb in on nicer
winter days, but the UK
climate means that
waterproof outer layer
are often needed.
Midlayer/Insulation:
Worn as an outer layer
when walking in on nice
days, or carried in and
then added under the
shell in poorer weather,
two lightly insulated
layers are needed.
Combining an R1-style
fleece and a lightweight
synthetic insulation layer
such as the Patagonia
Nano Puff (right) works
well. Hoods on these
layers increases warmth
and weather protection.
Warm Stuff: A warm Baselayer: A breathable

hat – such as the wicking layer for both
Alpkit Mountain upper body and legs,
Beanie (right) – and a made from either
buff is essential. In very synthetic or merino wool
poor weather a second (or a mix), such as the
buff can be used as a Montane Primino
face mask for extra range. Long sleeved
protection, or a balaclava baselayers are more
can be worn. comfortable in bad
Boots For winter mountaineering a warm pair of
semi-stiff B2 rated boots are perfect, allowing you to
kick steps in hard snow and fitting crampons well. For
steeper technical climbing a stiffer B3 rated boot, such
as the Scarpa Phantom Tech (below) will give more
support to your calves when standing on small edges
or kicking into hard ice. Plastic welts on the heels and
toes allow crampons to be firmly fixed in place. It’s
important that boots fit well, as if there is room for
heels to lift it makes climbing steep ice both difficult
and uncomfortable.
Gaiters Goggles/Sunglasses Rucksack

Whether to go for boots On windy days a pair of Everything that you need
with a built-in gaiter or goggles such as the for a day winter climbing
use a separate pair, such Julbo Airflux (below) should fit into a 40L (or
as the Fjällräven Singi can make the difference thereabouts) rucksack,
Gaiters, above, will be between an enjoyable like the Arc’teryx Alpha
down to personal choice. day on the hill and an FL45 (above). It’s worth
A modern boot with early return to the café, having a big enough bag
built-in gaiters probably and is an essential item if to have everything,
makes more sense if your wellbeing depends including the rope,
you’re going to spend lots on being able to navigate packed inside so that in
of time in the damp off the hill in poor bad weather you arrive at
Scottish west-coast conditions. Pick a pair the base of the route
climate, with the with completely clear without soaked gear. Your
gaiterless design more lenses to aid navigation rucksack needs a way to
appropriate for the drier at night. On rare sunny attach ice axes, and a big
alpine summer. Gaiters days, sunglasses are a enough lid to take a head
should be worn under- necessity. torch, goggles, etc.
neath the ankles of water-
proof trousers, not over
the top.
Hands: There is no such thing as a warm, dextrous,

waterproof, long-lasting glove, meaning that trade-offs
must be made to see what works for you. A typically
wet UK winter climbing day will require several pairs of
gloves: a light pair for the walk in, at least a couple of
technical pairs for climbing in and a warm pair for
belaying in should be carried as a minimum. In drier
conditions the hard-wearing Simond leather
mountaineering gloves sold by Decathlon are great,
and at £20 a pair a bargain. A pair of warm mitts, such
as the Rab Alliance GTX Mitt (above) are an
essential piece of gear, living in the bottom of your
rucksack until things get out of hand and you need to
warm up fast. Climbing while wearing mitts is a total
faff, but they are great for long, cold belays and walking
out in poor conditions.
WINTER GEAR GUIDE
Walking poles
Walking poles take care of
your knees on the downhill and make
it much easier to cover snow-covered
terrain and to travel in windy
conditions. They also make it much
easier to self-evacuate with an Guidebooks Waterproof bags
injured lower leg. Make sure that they Winter climbing often Roll-top waterproof bags, such as the Exped Fold
fold down or break apart small involves turning up at the Drybag (above) are useful to keep essentials dry
enough to it entirely inside your crag and choosing the inside your rucksack. One larger waterproof bag
rucksack when climbing, like the Leki route that’s in best should be used to keep dry things like spare layers
Micro Vario Carbon (left) – trying to condition on that day, so of clothing and the guidebook separate from wet
climb a chimney with poles strapped having a guidebook with things like the rack, ropes, crampons etc. Resist the
to the outside of your sack will lots of options is temptation to keep each individual item in its own
inevitably end in disaster. essential. dry bag – this is a faff and wastes lots of time.
Flask
In poor weather a lask
of hot sugary cordial or
fruit tea will do wonders
for morale. 1 litre max.
Blizzard Bag
Head torch x2 Blizzard bags are
Winter days are short, so never leave the car without vacuum-packed silver
a headtorch. Modern models, such as the Petzl foil sleeping bags with a
Swift RL (above), are light, bright, and inexpensive clever double-wall
so instead of taking spare batteries carrying two system which means
torches in case one dies makes more sense. Re- they pack down small
chargeable units create less waste and mean you but are very warm even
can always head out with two full sets of batteries. in cold, wet conditions.
Throw away your old
orange plastic survival
bag, they don’t do
anywhere near as good
a job of keeping an
injured person alive.
Navigation
The Harvey’s 1:25,000 maps are great for navigating
in winter conditions, with the 1:12,500 detailed
maps of Ben Nevis and other summits are extremely
useful in poor visibility. A good quality A5-sized map
case will make navigating with your pre-folded map
much easier- the more lexible ones from Ortleib are
much easier to use than cheap plastic ones. A good
quality compass is essential, with the Silva
Expedition being the industry standard.
In dificult conditions having a GPS device can make
First aid A basic irst aid Mobile Phone challenging navigation much easier. There is no
kit with tape, bandages, A fully-charged mobile good reason not to carry one. The Viewranger app
blister plasters, and pain phone, turned off and downloaded to your mobile phone is another
killers as a minimum. Keep kept warm next excellent navigational resource, but it’s important
in a small waterproof bag, to your body in leece that the same device that you are going to use to
along with your spare pocket to protect battery, call for help in an emergency doesn’t have it’s
head torch. for emergency use. battery worn down whilst navigating.
Photo: Norbert Blank
Expedition mats
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by Lyon Equipment - ww.lyon.co.uk
WINTER GEAR GUIDE
HARDWARE
The tools we use today in the winter mountains are very sophisticated, having
been honed over literally hundreds of years – but matching the right model of
axe and crampons to your activity is absolutely essential...
Axes
There are a wide range of axes on the market, and the important thing when
choosing one is to match the tool to the intended job. For classic mountaineering
a single straight-shafted axe with a curved pick is perfect. As things get steeper
and two axes are used on easier climbing ground a pair of semi-technical tools
such as the Petzl Sum’tec or DMM Fly’s are perfect. For harder winter routes more
technical tools will make life much easier, with handles either set on the shaft or
dropped back from the shaft to give even better grip on steep ground.
Keeper leashes
When climbing steeper
routes, elasticated
tethers are clipped to
the bottom of axes so
that they cannot be
dropped and lost.
Helmet
Some people choose not to wear a helmet when rock climbing, but when winter
climbing there is no argument about wearing one: with falling ice and pointed axes
swinging around above your head, wearing one is essential. Modern expanded-foam
helmets are super light and offer great protection in a fall but are more likely to suffer
damage in the rough and tumble world of winter. A good choice is the Petzl Boreo
which combines a protective hardened plastic shell with a complete foam liner.
Harness
A simple, light-weight harness – such as the Arc’teryx
AR-395A below – with a minimum of four gear loops
for more technical climbs. Make sure it’s easy to put on
when wearing mountaineering boots. Always put your
harness on before crampons when approaching a climb.
Ropes
A lightweight single rope for easier mountaineering routes, and double ropes for
more technical routes. If climbing as a team of three, using a pair of skinny triple-
rated ropes is safe and light. Whether single or double ropes are used, the
important factor is that they have a good quality dry treatment. Dry-treated ropes
have a speciically designed water-repellent coating added to their ibres, which
prevents them from soaking up water. Winter climbing takes place in a wet
environment and without this dry treatment ropes will soak up water, becoming
heavy before freezing into unusable cables.
Crampons Emergency shelter

The most versatile In the event of an
crampon for general incident, being able to
winter mountaineering stay warm and sheltered
and climbing is a until help can reach you
12-pointed semi-lexible can make the difference
model such as the Grivel between a good and bad
G12 (above) or the Petzl outcome. Every team
Vasak. These work well on should carry a simple
easy to mid grade winter group shelter – such as
routes, but on steeper ice the Vango Storm
and mixed climbs harder Shelter 800 above –
wearing and more precise that can be sat inside.
crampons such as the These are light and pack
Petzl Dart (right) allow for down to an impressively
more effective footwork. small size.
WINTER GEAR GUIDE
RACK
Protecting mixed routes can require a large and diverse rack, with options to place
gear in rock, ice and frozen turf. As in all types of climbing choosing the right rack for
the conditions and the route is a skill that takes time and effort to master.
Ice screws: Like all ice climbing gear, screws work

best when kept sharp. To prevent teeth from being
damaged in transport it’s a good idea to always reit
the rubber caps after use, and this will also stop you
from putting holes in other gear too. Modern ice
screws with free-turning handles, such as the Grivel
360 (below) are much easier to place than older
designs. The easiest way to rack screws onto your
harness is via a dedicated clipper, an outward facing Turf gear: On routes climbing steep frozen turf
accessory carabiner which allow screws to be hooks such as the DMM Bulldog can be hammered
removed single-handed whilst climbing. into frozen vegetation to give some protection. They
can also be hammered into icy cracks, but models
without a tapered beak are likely to become stuck,
cluttering the crag. For frozen dirt-illed cracks the
smaller DMM Terrier works well.
Slings: Several 120cm Pegs: Some people

slings should be carried, argue that for ethical
including at least one reasons pegs shouldn’t
stiffer Aramid sling for be used as they can
threading chockstones. damage the rock, but on
icy mixed routes they
can offer protection
when nothing else will.
Abseil cord: 5 metres of Knife Blades and Bird
6mm abseil cord and a Beaks can be a get-out-
small knife should be of-jail-free card, making
carried on every route otherwise unprotected
to make abseil retreat sections of climbing
easier if neccesary. much safer.
Metal file: Winter V threader: A 30cm Cams: In icy conditions
climbing involves using lots long thin metal wire or cams should be treated
of pointed gear, all of which bar with a hook at one with extreme scepticism as
works best if it is sharp. A end, these are used to they tend to rip out of even
metal ile should be taken pull abseil cord through good placements. They can
on trips to be used to a tunnel created in the be very useful in winter but
regularly sharpen ice to make an Abalakov must be carefully placed in
crampons, axes and or V thread anchor. snow and ice-free rock to
screws. Petzl make the be secure.
Lim’ice, a tool designed to
accurately sharpen their
screws, which works very
well at giving back the
fresh from the factory ease
of placement.
Nuts: Nuts are the most

used and most useful
piece of the winter rack
and carrying two full
sets and an extra set of
off-set’s will be
necessary on harder
mixed routes. They can
be gently hammered
into icy cracks to give
more secure
placements, but if wires
become damaged then
they should be replaced.
Hexes: Relegated to
history in summer,
hexes are perfect in
winter where they can
be tapped into wide,
iced-up cracks.
CUT OUT AND KEEP CHECKLIST:
SCOTTISH WINTER CLIMBING
PERSONAL
Harness, belay device, prussic loops
Helmet
Ice axes and tethers
Crampons
Boots
Hat, buff, walk-in gloves
Walking Poles
Map and compass, GPS
Headtorch, spare
Goggles and sunglasses
Belay jacket, extra warm layers,
Climbing gloves and spares, warm mitts
Quickdraws: Extendible
quickdraws using 60cm Food & lask
slings are useful for TEAM
preventing rope drag on First aid kit & group shelter/blizzard bag
wandering pitches, Guidebook
alongside longer Ropes & rack
light-weight ixed length Abseil tat & threader
‘draws.
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Montane Prism Jacket £125
Chris Kempster dons Montane’s updated classic insulated jacket
The Prism Jacket has sturdy 30-denier Pertex chest pocket that’ll it a
been a regular in the Quantum with DWR which smartphone or wallet, and two
Montane range for many years gives surprisingly good handwarmer pockets. The
now and during that time it’s water-resistance as well as PrimaLoft Silver 40g/m2
seen several revisions, but has complete windproofness, while insulation is quite lightweight
still retained the basic idea of the 20-denier nylon but is enough to give you some
an everyday synthetic mid/ lining is silky smooth and slips extra warmth when stopping
outer layer that’ll adapt to a effortlessly over layers as well for lunch or starting off at the
range of activities and as being nice next to the skin. beginning of a chilly day. Our
situations. One reason it has The helmet-compatible hood only niggle is that the hem is
been so popular is its can be worn over or under the slightly high for our liking,
robustness; it’ll take a beating hood, and works just as well however this is a personal
day in day out, and you just with or without a helmet on, preference and others may like it.
don’t have 1to worry too much due to its adjustability. There’s More info: www.montane.co.uk
about it kicking around the a volume adjustor at the back
bottom of your pack or getting and two toggles for adjusting
wet etc. The 2019 Prism is the it of the hood around the Verdict
about evolution not revolution, face. A wired peak completes a A go-to insulation piece for everyday use,
and there have been subtle hood that is ideal for the full giving some decent warmth and weather
tweaks to the it as well as more range of British weather protection in a durable package
obvious changes in the design, conditions! Elsewhere on the
such as the stitching running jacket, drafts are kept out by
diagonally on the front rather the elasticated cuffs and dual PROS: Decent warmth Surprisingly water-resistant Great hood
than vertically as on the hem adjustors. In terms of CONS: Hem sits a little high for our liking
previous version. The outer is a pockets, the Prism gives you a
Alpkit Men’s Jeanius £65 crotch. For those who want a

more regular, straighter cut,
Alpkit also do the Sequence
Chris Kempster tries denim made for the outdoors Jeans, however in practice we
found the lack of any excess
material around the lower legs
Alpkit’s original Jeanius under the bonnet there’s lots and ankles great when
jeans from a decade ago of techiness going on. As well bouldering or climbing. You can
were an attempt to make the as the BCI-certiied cotton, the see exactly where your feet
world’s best-loved trouser fabric blend also includes and holds are when looking
material suitable for outdoor Cordura for durability (making down, and there’s little chance
use. It promised water- them four times as tough as of the jeans snagging or
resistant performance, as well regular denim jeans), Coolmax otherwise getting in the way.
as windproofness and for wicking and Thermolite The material is super-tough
breathability, through the use hollow ibres for keeping you and the Jeanius Jeans also
of EPIC fabric which was made warm when temperatures look smart enough to wear out
by encapsulating the denim plummet. The cut, as after spending time at the
ibres in silicon to achieve its mentioned, is slim, and the crag. All in all, the Jeanius
magic properties. Due to Jeanius Jeans also have Jeans really are genius...
production issues with their articulated knees and
supplier, however, Alpkit diamond-shaped gusseted More info: www.alpkit.com
eventually discontinued their
waterproof jeans, but now the
Jeanius name has been Verdict
reborn… but in a somewhat Tough, stretchy and extraordinarily
different guise. The new comfortable – the Jeanius Jeans’ cut
Jeanius jeans are not also makes them great for climbing in
waterproof, however they are
very stretchy, and seriously
PROS: Very stretchy and comfortable Resistant to abrasion
comfortable. These slim it Slim legs ideal for bouldering or climbing CONS: None
jeans (not quite ‘skinny’) look
like normal denim, however
GEAR TESTED SIX OF THE BEST
Six of the best

Winter Survival Gear
We choose six useful items for staying
warm and safe in winter conditions
Blizzard 3 Layer Survival Bag Rab Group Shelter 4–6

£33.25 £55
While you’re unlikely to When travelling in groups in
carry a full winter winter, a group
sleeping bag on a day trip, shelter provides a place
having at least a survival bag to hunker down in the
(along with extra warm layers case of adverse
of course) could make all the weather, and can
difference in the case of also provide warmth
unexpected weather or an in case of injury.
injury. The Blizzard 3 Layer Furthermore, the
Survival Bag is a full-sized bright orange
sleeping bag that has been colour will aid in
vacuum-packed to keep the visibility if a rescue is
volume down. It weighs just required. The Rab Group
385g and is made from their Shelter 4-6 is (as you’d guess) is
own Reflexcell material, which designed to fit 4-6 people. They
blocks heat, and is stretchy also do versions designed for 1-2 Choose a shelter for
the size of your group
allowing it to hug the body. people and for 8-10 people. At
The top of the bag can be just 620g, it can easily be added you use poles to act as braces
cinched in to form a hood, A vital item to to group kit. Inside is snug, as it and give a little more head room.
further preventing vital heat keep in your pack uses body heat to warm the The main support for the shelter
from escaping. Blizzard claim space, so selecting the right comes from the users inside, so
that the bag is 7.5 togs and emergency bivi, an injury shelter for the size of your group there are no poles or any type of
equal to a medium-weight causing immobility, or the is important. Integrated set up required, making it super
regular sleeping bag. The bag onset of hypothermia, having waterproof seats keep you off quick to retreat into. Having used
is fully waterproof and a survival bag could make all the ground and secure the these types of shelters, we feel a
windproof – essential for the difference. shelter in place when sat inside. practice try before venturing out
protection from the elements. More info: www. There are ventilation windows can be beneficial.
Whether faced with an blizzardsurvival.com and recesses in the roof that let More info: rab.equipment
Lifesystems Reusable Hand Warmers Primus Lite+
£4.99 £115
Reusable Hand Warmers metal disc inside – the gel Whether or not you plan
are equally useful to warm begins to crystallise and they to cook a hot meal, having
your hands after a chilly stroll, or instantly begin to give out heat a stove on hand means that you
to pop into your pack for up to 54 degrees C. Tucked can melt snow or ice, if there is
emergency use in the inside your gloves or coat no other water source, to keep
mountains. Unlike single use pockets, they can give off up to hydrated. It can also be used to
hand warmers, you don’t have to 90 minutes of heat, and as long heat water to fill a Nalgene
be choosy about whether or not as you are carrying a stove, can which you can tuck inside your
it’s the right time to activate be reset in the field for multiple sleeping bag or emergency bag
them, as they can be ‘reset’ uses. They weigh 118g each and to help keep warm. Or perhaps
simply by putting them in boiling come in a pack of two – whether you just want a warm beverage
water (of course there’s less you choose to carry one or both on a chilly day! Either way, it’s
waste too). Activating them is entirely up to you. More info: certainly a good bit of kit to
simply involves snapping the www.lifesystems.co.uk have in winter. We’ve chosen
the Primus Lite+ as it’s
Warmth for compact, sturdy, and reliable
hands and feet
even when windy. The Lite+
comes with everything you
need: stove, pot, and Piezo
ignitor (though we’d still
recommend bringing an
additional fire source as these
are notoriously the first thing to A stove is a huge
asset in the cold
go on any stove). Pair it with a
Primus ‘Winter Gas’ canister (or eliminating the faff of searching
other suitable gas canister) and for all the bits and pieces in
you’re ready to go. The gas and your pack.
stove tuck neatly into the pot More info: www.primus.eu
SPOT X Bluetooth Powertraveller Sport 25 Power Pack

£320 £45
For more remote winter It’s a good idea to have
adventures where you may extra ‘juice’ any time of
not have a mobile signal, a year, but with cold weather
satellite device such as the draining batteries quicker,
SPOT X Bluetooth can provide having a power pack can be
vital comms to the outside particularly useful in winter to
world. Providing 2-way satellite ensure that headtorches, hand
messaging so you can stay held GPS units, and phones are
connected to family, friends and charged up when needed. The
colleagues whenever you’re Sport 25 Power Pack strikes a
outside of mobile range, good balance between weight
including direct communication and the amount of power it
with Search & Rescue services stores; with 6700mAh, it will
in case of life-threatening charge a smartphone one to
emergency, the SPOT X three times, a GPS one to two
Bluetooth connects to your times, or a headtorch three to
smartphone via its app and four times. It also features an
seamlessly turns your mobile integrated 150 lumen torch as a
phone into a satellite device or Stay in touch, back-up should your headtorch
wherever you are
use SPOT X by itself. You even stop working, while four LED
get your own personal mobile depending on the service), lights show you how much
number so others can message however this allows you to charge it has left. It weighs 187g
you directly from their mobile message from almost anywhere which we think is quite
phone or other SMS devices at in the world, send out SOS reasonable. It has a rugged Back-up power
any time. In addition to the signals, and also let friends track design and is dustproof and for your devices
purchase price, you’ll need to your position via GoogleMaps. waterproof, making it a reliable
sign up to an annual plan (from More info: bit of kit to take out on any More info: www.
around £12 per month, www.findmespot.eu mountain adventure. powertraveller.com
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ACONCAGUA
Overview
Outfitters
ACONCAGUA
A popular peak with
trekkers and climbers wanting to Numerous companies offer
test themselves at high altitude, guided ascents, either employing a
Aconcagua is a great choice for Western leader alongside a local
those looking to push their Will Harris profiles a mountain that’s the highest of both the team or an entirely local team – we
boundaries towards the 7000m Southern and Western Hemispheres, the highest peak outside would recommend Jagged Globe
ceiling. The easiest routes to of the Himalayas, and one of the coveted Seven Summits… (www.jagged-globe.co.uk) as a
the summit are technically highly-respected UK-based provider.
straightforward, but when the As always, consider the level of
infamously fickle weather and crampons towards the summit, Glacier route, features steeper support that you require before
strain of summiting at 6962m are expect a long and tiring trek where glacial ice demanding deciding whether to choose a fully
taken into account, an ascent is far the altitude is guaranteed to make mountaineering skills, but allows guided trip or to cut costs and go
from easy. As the highest peak in itself felt. One of the highest the summit to be traversed to give with inexpensive local operators
South America it is a fixture on the routes in the world that can be a grand high-altitude outing. offering stripped-down services. It’s
Seven Summits circuit, considered ascended without significant possible to hire logistical support,
to be harder than Kilimanjaro and mountaineering difficulty, it The South Face Routes including mules to carry your bags
Elbrus and easier than Denali and shouldn’t be underestimated. When The south face of Aconcagua to base camp, without hiring a
Everest. Despite enjoying an often- the mountain was first climbed presents a huge and complex wall, guide. You can rent or buy all of the
dry climate the weather on via its North-West slopes in 1897 it with numerous serac bands equipment needed for the climb
Aconcagua can be wild, with very was the highest mountain to have threatening each of the routes that from stores in Mendoza, but it is
strong winds combining with snow been summited anywhere, although have been forged up its 2000m of preferable to select and test all
to give white-out conditions. It can the discovery of the skeleton of an steep snow chutes and loose rock. equipment that will be used at
be very cold on the mountain, alpaca-like animal on the summit With such significant objective home before heading away. To get
requiring the use of double boots ridge suggests that it may have been danger, it is unsurprising that the there, fly to the regional capital
and thick insulated clothing, as summited before the Spanish wall has never been hugely popular, Mendoza, from where a three-and-a-
would be expected at nearly 7000m. colonisation of South America. but to date nine different routes half-hour bus journey will take you
If you have trekked to the summit and variations have been climbed. to the trailhead. If employing a
of Kilimanjaro and are searching Polish Traverse The first of which, completed by a guiding or logistics service
for the next step up without getting The second-most frequently strong team of French alpinists in alternative private transport will
too far into full-on climbing, then climbed route on the mountain, 1954, takes a direct line through the often be arranged.
Aconcagua could be for you. the Polish Traverse crosses the serac barriers that dominate the
Polish Glacier before meeting the centre of the face, a bold Permits
Routes North-West Ridge high on the undertaking. It is telling that a Permits must be purchased
North-West Ridge mountain, which is then followed route to its right climbed by the in Mendoza before travelling to the
Technically straightforward with to the summit and back to base renowned Slovenian mountaineer mountain, and range in price
either steep scree or, if you are lucky, camp. A more aesthetically-pleasing Slavco Sveticic was named La Ruta between $730-$1140 depending on
firm snow giving easier walking in variation to this, the direct Polish de la Ruleta, or the Roulette Route! season and nationality.
BLAIR AITKEN IN A TIGHT SPOT ON NO. 2 GULLY, BEN NEVIS. PHOTO: NADIR KHAN.
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wo ay

Everything we make is designed by

Address: Trek & Mountain Ltd,

Features Carn Mor

26 Cover Feature: Carn

60 Makalu Base Camp 52

winter, including recommendations

Gear for speciﬁc makes/models of kit

72 First Look: Rab 84 Tested: Mountain

74 Gear Guide: Winter 85 Tested: Montane

85 Tested: Alpkit 86 Six of the Best: Winter

84 85 74 with some comfy trousers for

90 Peak Profile: Aconcagua

JON GUPTA | Alpine Athlete

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