New Scientist 22 02 2020
New Scientist 22 02 2020
New Scientist 22 02 2020
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CORONAVIRUS LATEST
The race to model, track
and trace covid-19
RED-DWARF DYNAMO
Electric exoplanet creates
an interstellar stir
SOME DON’T LIKE IT HOT
How climate change is
skewing sex ratios
WEEKLY February 22 –28, 2020
COOL MINDS
Secrets of the people who never get stressed
No3270
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LAB-GROWN MEAT
It’s finally here – but will it really save the planet?
PLUS NASA’S WEIRD MOON MISSIONS / WHAT COUNTS AS HUMAN? /
UPSIDE-DOWN JELLYFISH / PERFECT PANCAKES / MEGA-TURTLES
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News Features
8 Fossil eukaryotes 34 Cool minds
Are these the oldest complex Features Understanding the resilience of
cells ever discovered? people who don’t get stressed
could transform our lives
10 Psychological tests
US courts are still using 39 Lab-grown meat
controversial and subjective The surprising taste of a
assessments long-awaited food revolution
Views
The back pages
23 Comment
The coronavirus outbreak can 51 Science of cooking
be modelled with maths, says Better batter for pancake day
Adam Kucharski
52 Puzzles
WILDTYPE
30 Culture
A chemical giant gets hunted
middle of it. This feels like 56 The Q&A
Elisabeth Bik, science sleuth,
in the movie Dark Waters a replay of the same movie” on research and cheating
What is consciousness?
What is intelligence?
Why do we sleep and dream?
What causes cognitive decline?
Where do our personalities come from?
and many more
MYSTERIES OF
THE HUMAN BR AIN
Explore the intricacies of the most complex object in the known
universe with the latest issue of New Scientist: The Collection
The leader
A lab-grown future
For all our sakes, governments need to invest more in cultured meat
AS PEOPLE get richer, they tend to eat Consumer squeamishness may still into university research on conventional
more meat. Global meat consumption be a problem and some claims about agriculture, only around $150 million
has roughly doubled over the past cultured meat’s reduced environmental has been invested in developing cultured
30 years and is forecast to double again impact may be overblown (see page 39). meat up to now, all from the private
over the next 30. Satisfying demand However, it could be a game-changer, sector or philanthropy. That is chicken
without trashing the environment and shrinking livestock farming’s footprint, feed for a technology that could change
crashing the climate will be a challenge. stemming the tide of antibiotic the world for the better.
According to the World Economic We can’t rely on the free market to
Forum, doing so through conventional “Venture capital has a poor sort this out alone. Venture capital has
agriculture will be impossible. record of supporting truly a poor track record at supporting truly
Another type of agriculture is on the original innovation – just original innovation. Just look at that
way that could fill stomachs without look at any smartphone” icon of modern consumer capitalism,
killing the planet – or anything, for that the smartphone: from the internet
matter. Cellular agriculture, or cultured resistance, improving animal welfare to GPS, touchscreen displays and even
meat, is almost oven-ready. The first and solving looming food security the voice-activated assistant Siri, pretty
commercial products could be plated issues. Even lab-made shrimp would much all its key technologies initially
up next year. The starter will be seafood: be an improvement, as aquaculture received state cash.
shrimp, crab, lobster, salmon and tuna. has its own sustainability problems. Governments should ignore the
But the technology is basically the same So why are governments paying bleating of meat industry lobbyists.
and cultured shrimp should pave the cultured meat so little attention? It is time to put our money where
way for burgers and nuggets. While they continue to pour money our mouths need to be. ❚
SECOND EDITION OF
BEING HUMAN
BEING
HUMAN
Take a step back from the everyday
chores of being human to tackle the
big – and small – questions about our
nature, behaviour and existence.
News
Antimatter problem Exoplanet discovery Largest ever turtle Starlink controversy Food waste
It turns out that Planet detected Huge fossil sheds Astronomers’ Have we been
anti-atoms look that generates light on mysterious concerns over underestimating
just like atoms p8 radio waves p9 reptile p12 satellites p13 the problem? p14
10%
of cases may be responsible for
80 per cent of transmission
in people with covid-19 very soon, most and why, and whether
Kieny said. The drug was tested quarantine methods and travel
without much success with bans are effective at containing
Ebola, but may be more effective it, Swaminathan told the press
against covid-19, she said. “But conference. “I think we have a
we will have to wait for a few lot to learn from studying all
weeks to know whether this gives these,” she said. ❚
Analysis Temperature
Tracking
IN A bid to contain the country’s cars are allowed to enter cities, a Drivers in some areas
coronavirus outbreak, the Chinese process that can track the location have to scan QR codes
government has teamed up with of people by their Chinese resident before entering a city
tech firms to monitor citizens identity card number.
and track confirmed cases of On 13 February, China’s Ministry Chinese tech firms don’t. The
infection with the covid-19 virus. of Industry and Information Smart Assistant function on
On 16 February, Alipay – the Technology jointly launched Huawei phones in China, for
world’s largest mobile payments a service with three state-run example, pulls information from
telecommunications firms – Ding Xiang Yuan, or DXY – a
in that it will spread pretty much A message in the snow exposed to many strains. This isn’t
everywhere.” urging China to stay strong the case for the new coronavirus:
However, if it is more infectious amid the outbreak fewer cases have been reported in
in cooler conditions, there is an young people, though this may be
increased chance of it spreading high temperature seasons,” he says. just because they are less likely to
faster in the southern hemisphere It is thought one reason why become seriously ill.
as conditions there cool in the flu spreads less readily in summer The World Health Organization
coming months. David Heymann is that people spend less time says we don’t know yet how heat
at the London School of Hygiene together in confined spaces. and humidity affect the virus.
and Tropical Medicine, who led In particular, it could be linked to “There is currently no data available
TPG/ZUMA PRESS/PA IMAGES
the global response to the SARS school closures, says John Edmunds, on stability of 2019-nCoV on
coronavirus outbreak in 2003, also at the London School of surfaces,” it says in its guidance
points out that the MERS coronavirus Hygiene and Tropical Medicine. on preventing infections. ❚
has spread in Saudi Arabia in However, children tend to spread Find out how mathematics is key
August, when it is very hot. “These flu because they have less immunity to understanding the spread of
viruses can certainly spread during to it than adults, who have been the new coronavirus on page 23
News
Evolution
CHINA’s Wutai mountains may has dubbed Dongyesphaera. New Scientist gave the fossils a they are really eukaryotes, says
contain the earliest fossil evidence Both types of fossil have roughly cautious welcome. Högström. They could be bacteria
of an evolutionary milestone: the spherical cells with multilayered It is plausible that they are that look superficially like fungi,
moment that complex eukaryotic outer walls and visible spines – eukaryotes, says Małgorzata for instance.
life appeared on Earth. all features that the team says Moczydłowska-Vidal at Uppsala If eukaryotes really were
Eukaryotes have large cells suggests they are eukaryotes, University in Sweden.“I could go present as early as 2 billion years
with complex internal structures. not bacteria (Precambrian for them being eukaryotic,” says ago, they emerged in the wake of
While the first eukaryotic Research, doi.org/dmsf). Anette Högström at the Arctic tumultuous changes. The first
organisms were all single-celled, Experts contacted by University of Norway in Tromsø. oxygen built up in the atmosphere
they gave rise to all multicellular However, the identification 2.4 billion years ago, albeit at low
life – including fungi, plants This Dictyosphaera is solely based on the shapes of levels, in the Great Oxidation
and animals. fossil may be one of the the fossils, says Yuangao Qu at Event. This was followed by an
Leiming Yin at the Nanjing earliest complex cells the Institute of Deep-sea Science ice age known as Snowball Earth.
Institute of Geology and and Engineering at the Chinese These abrupt environmental
Palaeontology in China and his Academy of Sciences in Sanya. variations may have triggered the
colleagues found the fossils in “If more geochemical data evolution of eukaryotes, says Qu.
a set of rocks called the Hutuo could be obtained, it would However, the mechanisms
Group in the Wutai mountains. be more convincing.” of this are unclear, says
Previous studies have shown If confirmed to be eukaryotes, Moczydłowska-Vidal. She says
that the rocks were laid down the fossils are arguably the oldest that the Great Oxidation Event
between 2.15 and 1.95 billion known. Previously the oldest “might have triggered the
years ago. confirmed eukaryotes were evolution of the first eukaryotes”,
In total, the researchers found around 1.5 billion years old. but adds that this isn’t certain.
eight kinds of microfossil: four are Some researchers have claimed Meanwhile, it is even less clear
bacteria, two couldn’t be identified to have found significantly older how the Snowball conditions
PRECAM.2020.105650/ELSEVIER
and two appear to be eukaryotes. eukaryotes: one 2017 study could have contributed, she says.
Of these two, one appears to reported fungi, which are “The only certain thing is that
belong to a known genus of eukaryotes, in rocks 2.4 billion these microbes originated in
eukaryotes called Dictyosphaera. years old. However, these older a marine environment with
There were also six specimens microfossils are rare and poorly relatively high oxygen levels
of a new genus that the team preserved, and it isn’t clear that in the surface layers,” she says. ❚
Particle physics
Antimatter looks like model, physicists’ well-tested a property known as the Lamb shift, Lamb shift can’t help to explain the
theory of particles and their which is caused by fluctuations antimatter mystery, however. The
matter – which is a interactions, predicts that matter in the quantum vacuum thought measurements are consistent only
problem for physics and antimatter were created in to pervade all of space, in atoms to within one decimal place, so it
equal quantities in the big bang, of antihydrogen. is possible that future research
PHYSICISTS have made a key so both should have disappeared in These consist of a positively will discover subtle differences
measurement of anti-atoms, and an orgy of annihilation shortly after. charged electron, or positron, between the Lamb shift of atoms
found that they look just like atoms. This has led to the suggestion and anti-atoms (Nature, DOI:
The result means we are no closer that there is a small imbalance “An imbalance between 10.1038/s41586-020-2006-5).
to solving the mystery of why we live between matter and antimatter matter and antimatter may “This measurement is certainly
in a universe made only of matter, properties, which allowed some have allowed some matter an important step forward,” says
or why there is anything at all. matter to survive and form the to survive the big bang” Chloé Malbrunot, who works on
Antimatter particles are the universe of stars and galaxies we the rival ASACUSA experiment,
same as matter particles, but live in. But we have failed to find circling an antiproton. Just as also at CERN. ❚
have the opposite electrical charge. much evidence of one. the standard model predicts, the Richard Webb
If the two meet, they annihilate Now the ALPHA collaboration at Lamb shift was the same in atoms Read an exclusive feature on the
in a blitz of light and energy. the CERN particle physics lab near of hydrogen and antihydrogen. mysteries of antimatter in next
The problem is that the standard Geneva, Switzerland, has measured It is too early to conclude that the week’s New Scientist
Exoplanet generates
radio waves from
How our ancestors tried
its red dwarf sun to battle sea level rise
Stuart Clark Alice Klein
News
Psychology
Space exploration
Missions may go active place in the solar system. try to explain the moon’s activity. and help us understand whether
While we know that Io is covered The final two missions aim to Venus ever had surface oceans.
to solar system’s in massive volcanoes, IVO would explore Venus, the second planet The other is VERITAS (Venus
strangest moons help us figure out where the magma from the sun. One is DAVINCI+ Emissivity, Radio Science, InSAR,
that supplies those volcanoes (Deep Atmosphere Venus Topography, and Spectroscopy),
NASA has selected four possible comes from and how they erupt. Investigation of Noble gases, which would orbit Venus with
missions to visit some of our solar The second proposal is Trident, Chemistry, and Imaging Plus). powerful radar instruments to
system’s least understood worlds. a plan to fly past Neptune and It aims to send a probe through map the surface and look for active
The proposals were chosen as part its biggest moon Triton. This the planet’s atmosphere to measure processes such as plate tectonics.
of the space agency’s lower-cost planetary satellite is strangely its composition from top to bottom, Each mission will get $3 million
Discovery programme. active – it has icy volcanoes, for over the next nine months. At the
The first is called IVO (Io Volcano example – despite being far from “Triton is strangely active, end of this development period,
Observer), a proposed craft that the sun and therefore extremely with icy volcanoes, despite one or two of them will be selected
would make close passes of Jupiter’s cold. Trident would look for a being far from the sun to actually launch. ❚
moon Io, the most volcanically subsurface ocean on Triton and and extremely cold” Leah Crane
OPEN
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News
Palaeontology Climate change
58cm
The contribution Antarctic ice could
make to sea level rise by 2100
Military technology
THE US military is developing a These devices have a range this is unclear, but an Australian In principle, such techniques
portable face-recognition device of about 300 metres. Extending Department of Defence team has might work at a range of a
capable of identifying individuals that distance isn’t as simple recently developed an algorithm kilometre, says Walter Scheirer at
from a kilometre away. as adding a longer lens to the capable of unscrambling Notre Dame University in Indiana.
The Advanced Tactical Facial camera, because this increases atmospheric turbulence to aid “We have not yet hit a serious
Recognition at a Distance noise from vibration. Atmospheric long-range face recognition. fundamental limit to long-range
Technology project is being turbulence also becomes a Other researchers have facial recognition,” he says.
carried out for US Special problem because the air acts as experimented with using what “We haven’t pushed the optics
Operations Command (SOCOM). an ever-changing distorting lens. is known as a convolutional or the algorithms to the limit.”
It commenced in 2016, and a The challenge for the new neural network to transform However, Scheirer is sceptical
prototype was demonstrated in extreme-range recognition a series of blurred images that reliable identification is
December 2019, paving the way system is turning captured images into a single distinct one. possible with current technology
for a production version. SOCOM into something clear enough for at such ranges. “I’d be interested
says the research is ongoing, but the software, which works best Long-distance face- to know what are the imaging
declined to comment further. with passport-style photos. recognition technology may circumstances,” he says. “Are they
Initially designed for hand-held How Secure Planet is achieving be used from US drones doing this on a clear, sunny day
use, the technology could also with a co-operative subject?”
be used from drones. SOCOM Rasha Abdul-Rahim at
documents say it could be shared human-rights group Amnesty
with law-enforcement agencies. International says the technology
This technology would enable is troubling. She says it may be a
people to be identified without step towards fully autonomous
knowing they were even on weapons that find targets
camera. Privacy advocates have and attack them without any
expressed concern over its use. meaningful human control. “Until
The device is being developed governments can demonstrate
by US firm Secure Planet, that it is in line with human rights
US AIR FORCE PHOTO/ALAMY
SpaceX
Starlink satellites artificial bright lights in the sky. of the studies, simulated 26,000 number of satellite trails rendering
SpaceX performed its fifth satellites at various altitudes. observations useless. However,
will have ‘negative Starlink launch on Monday, bringing He found that about 1000 of the impact on naked eye astronomy
impact’, says report its total number of satellites to 300. them would be visible to telescopes would be “small”, says Hainaut.
The firm plans to launch thousands at dawn or dusk, when the sun The IAU says the night sky “should
THE International Astronomical more, as do competitors such as is below the horizon but the be considered a non-renounceable
Union (IAU) has concluded a review OneWeb in the UK. satellites are still illuminated. world human heritage”, and hopes
of satellite mega constellations such “When all this started, we were Telescopes conducting surveys of to draw up guidelines on satellite
as SpaceX’s Starlink, and warns of course worried by the situation, the night sky, such as the upcoming brightness for submission to the
that they could have “worrisome” but we wanted to be scientific Vera C. Rubin Observatory in Chile, United Nations in the next year,
consequences for astronomy. in our evaluation of the impact,” could lose up to 50 per cent of their says Benvenuti. “We have to be
The IAU began the work following says Piero Benvenuti at the IAU. images at this time, with the large very fast, because these private
concerns after SpaceX’s launch of The findings showed that mega companies are moving much faster
60 Starlink satellites in May 2019. constellations would have a “We were worried by the than the space agencies,” he says.
The satellites will beam high-speed “negative impact” on astronomy. situation, but we wanted SpaceX and One Web didn’t
internet around the world, but Olivier Hainaut of the European to be scientific in our respond to requests for comment. ❚
the launch also resulted in many Southern Observatory, who led one evaluation of the impact” Jonathan O’Callaghan
News
Pollution Analysis Environment
Hairy spider skins Scale of food waste A widely cited statistic claims a third of
could be used to food is lost or wasted – but this doesn’t account for how much
soak up oil spills more food richer nations squander, says Adam Vaughan
James Urquhart
Discovery
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News In brief
Animal behaviour
modern and ancient segments between this unknown hominin state of each system of atoms was
within the genomes of Yoruba and ancestors of the modern entangled with the state of a single
people from Ibadan, Nigeria. They populations occurred in the past photon, and the photons sent
found more instances of genetic 124,000 years (Science Advances, through the cables (Nature,
variation in the ancient segments doi.org/dmn6). Bethan Ackerley doi.org/ggkrvj). Leah Crane
The left and right sides of our Institute for Evolutionary brain asymmetry. They all shared
brains aren’t symmetrical; some Anthropology in Germany. a common pattern but it was
areas on one side are larger or His team analysed skulls from less pronounced in chimpanzees
smaller, while other bits protrude 95 humans, 45 chimpanzees, than in the other species (Science
more. The pattern of these 43 gorillas and 43 orangutans. Advances, doi.org/dmsq). Past
Sweaty summer differences, or asymmetries, was Brain shape is imprinted on the comparisons relied on chimps,
nights ahead thought to be uniquely human, inside of the skull during growth, which may explain why the deep
dating from when our brain so the team used CT scanning to evolutionary history of brain
The number of extremely hemispheres became specialised detect these details in the hollow asymmetry wasn’t spotted sooner.
hot days followed by for certain tasks, like processing skulls and then created digital James Urquhart
intensely hot nights in
northern hemisphere Palaeontology Environment
summers could jump to
32 by 2100 – four times as
many as now. That applies BP oil spill was even
even if the world acts to bigger than thought
check global warming
(Nature Communications, THE worst ever oil spill in the US,
doi.org/dmk8). at a rig run by BP a decade ago,
may have been almost a third
Mars may have larger than previously thought.
SINCLAIR STAMMERS/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY
News Insight
Medical ethics
I, human
Researchers are blurring the lines of what it means to be human,
so do our laws need to change, asks Jessica Hamzelou
LAST year, researchers in China
announced they had inserted a
human brain gene into monkeys.
These 11 monkeys outperformed
typical monkeys in tests of
short-term memory, and their
brain development more closely
resembled that of humans.
Are these animals still fully
monkeys? Or are they something
else? Something human?
Plenty of other experiments
have blurred the line between
what is human and what isn’t.
VICTOR DE SCHWANBERG/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY
says Savulescu. “How do you self-consciousness. “We have to A company called Kernel is
evaluate that in a life form that get off the fence and decide what working on a brain implant
doesn’t speak our language and it is about life that makes killing to boost human intelligence,
communicate in the way we do?” that being especially wrong,” while Neuralink, which Elon Musk
he asks. says Savulescu. co-founded, aims to connect
It is a pressing question. Greely Other potential legal cases people’s brains to computer-based ▲ Badgers
thinks that the first legal cases will surround the physical and artificial intelligence. US president Donald
will surround the treatment cognitive enhancement of Because these devices target Trump is obsessed with
of substantially human tissues. humans, says Jennifer Chandler our brains, they have a greater badgers, according to a
If a human organ is grown in at the University of Ottawa. potential to affect the new book. Is it something
a lab from an individual’s cells, Technically, we humans have about the hair?
how should it be dealt with and been cognitively enhancing “We have to get off
disposed of? “There are statutes ourselves for as long as we have the fence and decide ▲ Particle physics
that require human remains been around. Education improves what about life makes Fancy spotting the Higgs
be treated with certain kinds of our thinking, for instance. killing it wrong?” boson at home? CERN
respect,” he says. For example, But newer approaches that has released data from
in the UK, human tissue must be involve stimulating the brain characteristics that make us 1 quadrillion particle
disposed of in accordance with the using implanted devices start human, says Chandler. Hip collisions at the Large
donor’s wishes, as far as possible. to merge human and machine, replacements and insulin pumps Hadron Collider for
she says. Brain implants are are one thing, but “it seems anyone to analyse.
already being used to treat somehow a little different when
Enter the chimera conditions like epilepsy and you’re talking about an implant ▲ Dinosaurs
Savulescu, however, thinks Parkinson’s disease, and are that’s meant to directly modify The UK’s Royal Mint has
the first legal cases will involve currently being investigated mental functioning”, she says. released three dinosaur-
human-animal chimeras: animals in a range of other conditions. In the future, the law may themed 50 pence coins
that contain cells from two species. Some neuroscientists are distinguish between “enhanced” to lose down the sofa and
Human-pig chimeras are attempting to tweak the way and “unenhanced” humans, be unearthed millions of
already being grown. These those implants work to enhance says Chandler. “People fuss about years from now.
contain cells that could allow cognition. One team has already cheating,” she says. “If people
them to develop human organs, used a device originally implanted cognitively enhance in the context ▼ Betelgeuse
although, so far, the resulting to treat epilepsy to improve of a competition, does that break The red giant star
embryos have been destroyed memory in a group of volunteers. the rules or not?” Courts may Betelgeuse has been
before this happens. The idea is eventually be forced to decide, fading for months
that transplant organs could be Brain implants used to she says. now – mood lighting
made in pigs using a person’s cells, treat Parkinson’s disease Some futurists predict that on an epic scale?
allowing them to circumvent might enhance cognition we will one day be able to upload
lengthy waiting lists for human- the contents of our brains onto ▼ Wood stoves
donated organs. In theory, the a computer. Would such an Domestic pollution is
organs should be human enough upload be human? “I guess that on the rise in the UK due
to avoid being rejected by the would be a place to apply the
LES. LADBURY/ALAMY, NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
to wood-burning stoves,
recipient’s immune system. substantially human test that but, hey, nothing beats a
But at what point do the pigs we propose,” says Greely. bit of particulate matter to
themselves become too human In the meantime, there are make a house feel homely.
to be used in this way? Mice with plenty of scientific and technical
BSIP, ASTIER-CHRU LILLE/SCIENCE PHOTO LIBRARY
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Views
The columnist Letters Aperture Culture Culture columnist
James Wong learns Reasons why we do The wild island that A chemical giant gets For All Mankind is
what eating like our and don’t live in a looks like a colourful hunted in the movie inspirational, says
ancestors entails p24 simulation p26 biological jewel p28 Dark Waters p30 Emily Wilson p32
Comment
B
ACK in mid-January, the in China in late January, from
current coronavirus travel restrictions to school
outbreak was merely an closures. Mathematicians are
unusual cluster of pneumonia working to understand whether
cases. At least, that is what the tally these measures have curbed
of 41 confirmed infections in the transmission, or whether they are
Chinese city of Wuhan suggested. pump handles removed after the
But then cases started appearing situation has already changed.
elsewhere: first one in Thailand, One of the challenges again
then one in Japan, then another comes from the delays involved.
in Thailand, all among people It takes time for infected people to
who had travelled from Wuhan. show symptoms, and further time
There were some flights to these for ill people to be reported as
places from Wuhan, but for three cases, so changes in transmission
cases to have already appeared today may not show up in the data
internationally, there must have for another week or two. It means
been many more infections in the that if we put in a new control
city that hadn’t been picked up. measure and cases decline
When researchers used flight data immediately, we can be confident
to estimate how many unreported we shouldn’t be taking the credit.
cases there must have been to Having helped us to understand
generate these patterns, it implied the past and present of an
Wuhan was more likely to have outbreak, maths can also give
thousands than dozens of cases. clues about what might happen
During an outbreak, we rarely in the future. Although we only
see the full picture at first, and this ever see one version of an
is where mathematics is essential. outbreak, with mathematical
As well as the question of how models, we can simulate dozens
many cases there really are, we better, so we can’t include recent help us to work out what to of alternatives. We can forecast
also need to know how severe the cases in the analysis because we do about it. In my book, The Rules where the outbreak may spread
disease is: if someone is diagnosed don’t yet know what will happen of Contagion, I outline how to to, and how quickly, and what
with the new coronavirus, what to them. If we adjust for this delay, tell whether disease-control new control measures might do.
is the chance it will prove fatal? we instead end up with a fatality measures are having an effect. In just a few months, the new
As of 11 February, there had been risk of around 1 per cent. In 1854, English physician John coronavirus has turned into
395 cases confirmed outside China We saw a similar data illusion Snow famously removed the a major outbreak. With some
and one death, which may be the during the Ebola outbreak in West handle from Broad Street’s water mathematical help, the hope
most accurate picture of the Africa in 2014: early reports put pump in London, apparently is that before too long, we really
outbreak. At first glance, it seems the chance of death much lower ending a huge cholera outbreak. will be counting a small number
the chance of death is therefore than it should have been, causing There was just one problem: the of cases. ❚
1/395 or 0.3 per cent. However, this unnecessary speculation about outbreak had already peaked by
calculation makes a crucial error. why it was unusually low. the time he got to the handle. Adam Kucharski is a
There is generally a delay of a Maths isn’t only useful for In the current coronavirus mathematician at the
JOSIE FORD
couple of weeks between someone understanding the extent of outbreak, several unprecedented London School of Hygiene
falling ill and dying or getting illness and infection. It can also interventions were introduced and Tropical Medicine
Views Columnist
#FactsMatter
F
OOD fads come and go. just two generations ago – and if decades, resulting in an 80 per
One minute, kale smoothies we go back another century or two cent reduction in nutrient
are the elixir to everything in Borneo, possibly a bit of human deficiencies. I can’t help but
that ails you, the next it is ultra- as well. This may sound facetious, think that my ancestors would
low-carb lard and offal. But what but it can be the reality of trying take a slightly higher risk of heart
if the real solution was far more to apply these principles. disease over lifelong nutrient
traditional? Meet the latest Putting aside the questionable deficiency any day.
trend: the “ancestral diet”. ethics of eating pangolins or Another problematic pillar on
Proponents of the diet say people, nutritionally these diets which this movement rests is the
James Wong is a botanist and research shows that people have also aren’t a great idea. Although idea that humans have perfectly
science writer, with a particular genetic adaptations – such as these are extreme examples, the adapted to their traditional food
interest in food crops, lactose tolerance – to what would diets of people in 16th-century sources. Although there is good
conservation and the have been their traditional diets. Wales probably aren’t to be envied evidence that certain populations,
environment. Trained at the Therefore, a personalised diet, either. My family were likely to such as the Maasai in Kenya and
Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, he based on what our families ate have lived lives of abject poverty Tanzania, have evolved the ability
shares his tiny London flat with in centuries past, could be the characterised by frequent periods to better digest lactose because
more than 500 houseplants. secret to good health. of famine. Oh, and that advice of the selective pressure of a long
You can follow him on Twitter All modern health conditions, of just looking at old cookbooks history of dairy consumption,
and Instagram @botanygeek they say, can be attributed to the this is far from a universal rule.
mismatch between our current “Putting aside the Research into the plaque
diets and our genes. For example, ethics of eating build-up on teeth has
it is claimed that Asia has gone demonstrated, for example, that
pangolins or people,
from one of the lowest rates of the dairy-rich diet of Mongolia can
James’s week chronic disease to the highest nutritionally these be traced back at least 3000 years
What I’m reading in just one generation, due to diets also aren’t despite 95 per cent of Mongolians
My Twitter feed, a bunch increasingly Westernised diets. a great idea” still being lactose intolerant.
of journals and stacks So the recipe for a long and Traditional diets actually tend to
of scripts. healthy life is simple: we just need doesn’t help much when you reflect the availability of certain
to look at historical cookbooks for discover they were essentially food types, far more than they do
What I’m watching what our genetic ancestors ate all written for the 16th-century’s their value to human nutrition.
An awful lot of 500 years ago. Definitions vary, but super rich. It would be like basing For me, the trickiest thing
in-flight movies. the general idea is that Europeans a typical 21st-century diet on a about this nutritional approach is
should eat a wheat-based diet with menu found on a private jet. that it requires that people can be
What I’m working on plenty of dairy, whereas Asians Another problematic aspect of neatly labelled in boxes and
A new BBC wildlife should have a rice-based diet, rich this advice is that it is predicated assigned an “ideal” way of eating
comedy show for Radio 4 in vegetables and tiny amounts on the modern assumption that on that basis. The idea that you
and a TV series on global of protein like fish sauce. the lack of obesity and diet-related can generalise the “typical” diet
farming. As an ethnobotanist, I am degenerative diseases of the past of a single country, let alone an
fascinated by traditional diets, automatically means we were entire incredibly diverse continent
but I must admit I would find once much healthier. By almost like Europe or Asia, to a small
this advice hard to follow. Being any objective measure, we weren’t. set of prescriptive rules
half-Bornean and half-Welsh, my It is true there is now a higher inevitably means one falls back
ancestral diet is rather harder to age-adjusted mortality from on unhelpful stereotypes.
pinpoint. Following this advice cardiovascular disease in much While the research into genetic
would mean a diet that blends, of Asia, but the same period has adaptations to diet is to me
I guess, rice and wheat as a primary also seen some of the greatest endlessly fascinating, translating
energy source, with probably an reductions in malnutrition this into a simple set of dietary
awful lot of millet and sago palm. on Earth in the region. In 1961, rules is fraught with difficulty.
Protein and fats would probably East Asia had the lowest per Not least because, as most of us
come from a significant dairy and capita calorie availability of are really genetic mishmashes,
This column appears beef component, but also bush anywhere on the planet, which like me, it seems that the
monthly. Up next week: meat like pangolins and bats – has subsequently rocketed more exceptions might just be
Chanda Prescod-Weinstein which my Malaysian family ate than three-fold in a few short more common than the rules. ❚
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Editor’s pick
Reasons why we do and
don’t live in a simulation
1 February, p 34
From Andy Howe, Sheffield, UK
In Daniel Cossins’s piece “Do we
make reality?”, philosopher Kelvin
McQueen says consciousness may
not be exclusive to humans or other
complex organisms, but may exist,
in a rudimentary form, in inanimate
objects. How does that differ from
proposing that the wave function
collapse, which produces a “real”
event, occurs whenever quantum
objects interact?
Although ascribing consciousness
exclusively to humans seems
very out of date, ascribing it to
inanimate matter would need
some philosophical and semantic
gymnastics. But if Einstein was
wrong, and reality does depend on
our absurd, pre-Darwinian sense of
superiority – by only existing when and physicists who propose any UK and Ireland. He omits the could have occasional pork chops,
our species is looking – wouldn’t kind of multiverse. Without a original and best land use for as pigs are very good at turning
that constitute sufficient evidence compelling reason to believe from much of that region: forest. food waste into crackling.
that we all must be in a simulation? first principles that we are one of We shouldn’t plant short-lived
Simulating only features seen by a many universes, we cannot say industrial conifer plantations –
We should make use
“conscious observer” would save a anything about the likelihood of though there is a place for these –
vast amount of computing power. ours being one thing or another. but diverse, well-managed forests of every scrap of land
Technically speaking, we don’t producing high-quality logs for 1 February, p 15
From Carl Zetie, have a measure for the underlying buildings and furniture, as well From Roy Harrison,
Raleigh, North Carolina, US population of universes, and so can as wildlife habitats, which Verwood, Dorset, UK
In “Can we create reality?”, Donna say nothing about any distribution. attract visitors. The UK’s Committee on Climate
Lu reports the claim by philosopher In many parts of Europe, Change proposes that airlines and
Nick Bostrom that if there are any From John Davenport, abandonment of hill grazing has oil companies should pay for a
simulated universes at all they will Kenley, Surrey, UK led to restoration of forests by colossal tree-planting drive. How
vastly outnumber any real ones. Lu suggests that if we live in a natural regeneration, which has much would this reduce the area
So, he says, we probably live in simulation it would be switched cost taxpayers nothing and has of land dedicated to producing
a simulated universe. off if the overlords realised that we fixed significant amounts of food in the UK?
This argument is fatally knew about it. But it is most likely carbon and expanded wildlife I wonder whether this is a good
self-contradicting. The universe that the overlords are kids playing habitat. We will soon come to idea in a world that has a growing
that we live in is enormously more in their bedrooms. Our discovery see uncontrolled goat and sheep population and in which we
complicated than it needs to be would merely add excitement. grazing for the environmental expect farmland to be lost because
to simulate intelligent beings like The risk arises when they disaster that it is, with extreme of rising sea levels.
ourselves. For example, you could discover girls, boys or whatever, examples in Australia, Ethiopia, The report assumes that the
discard the other 100 billion visible at which point they lose interest. Kenya, Greece and Scotland. UK will continue to import 47 per
galaxies in our universe without cent of the food it consumes and
significantly affecting the From Margaret Pitcher, export 18 per cent of what it grows.
In praise of diverse
experiment. So simpler universes Canberra, Australia It does advocate things that we
should vastly outnumber those as and productive forests In the past, forests were should do for other reasons,
complex as ours. My conclusion – at Letters, 1 February considered part of the farming such as restoring peatlands and
least as logical as Bostrom’s – is that From Nick Marshall, Edinburgh, UK economy. Their resources could hedgerows. Perhaps we should
if we lived in a simulated universe, Sandy Henderson, arguing for still be used to cut down carbon make use of every scrap of land.
it wouldn’t look like this one. meat production, says that this pollution in other ways. Perhaps solar panels should be on
Bostrom is making the same is the only practical way to farm If we fed pigs on the dropped the roofs of buildings rather than
mistake as many other philosophers much of the north and west of the nuts and undergrowth, maybe we occupying cultivable land.
supports his stance. Others claim that kites in Australia have been between life and death, questions
Thoughts on highways
that socio-economic status is a observed transporting fire with whether frozen Canadian frogs
being byways safe for kids better predictor, though such burning sticks to set fires to are dead or alive. They are very
Letters, 25 January a strong link isn’t often found. expose prey (13 January 2018, p 4). definitely alive, as they aren’t
From David Mason, Both measures are trumped I wonder whether Neanderthals entirely frozen. For example, Rana
Swindon, Wiltshire, UK by good educational assessments observed this behaviour by birds. sylvatica, the North American
Readers discuss making towns of children. The Performance wood frog, has biochemical
more pedestrian-friendly. One Indicators in Primary Schools adaptations that prevent more
Face recognition may
thing that my 40 years of highway baseline assessment is carried out than about 75 per cent of its
engineering work has taught at the age of 4, at the start of school already be regulated water from freezing, including
me is that some drivers believe in the UK. I am an author of a 1 February, p 23 antifreeze proteins and sugars like
themselves to be expert highway study that found a correlation of From Tim Stevenson, sorbitol and betaine. Yes, they are
design engineers. 0.5 between these and results in Prestwood, Buckinghamshire, UK very cold. Yes, their metabolism is
I agree with Rob Wheway maths and English exams taken Donna Lu says face recognition extremely slow. One could even
that play space should be part of at ages 14 to 16 (doi.org/gftrzg). needs to be regulated. It may view them as crunchy frogs, but,
development, including on-street Including other factors, such as already be. The EU General Data no, they have yet to croak.
play space that allows shared use socio-economic status, improves Protection Regulation, which
between vehicles and players. But the prediction a little. wears a Union Jack hat as the UK
You think you’re so clever
my colleagues in local authorities Data Protection Act 2018, covers
tend to be conservative and prefer cases in which it is possible to with your eight legs
A gaping lacuna in your 21/28 December 2019, p 52
wider carriageways. Robert Hale identify an individual directly
notes that this means all drivers coverage of fear of holes from processed data. From Geoff Patton,
tend to travel too fast. 18 January, p 38 Silver Spring, Maryland, US
Unfortunately, the narrow From Hugh Kolb, Rowan Hooper’s report on the
Why does recycling always
footpaths that Graham Jones Logie Coldstone, Aberdeenshire, UK discovery of social species of
mentions aren’t attractive to You report on trypophobia, a fear lag behind innovation? octopus reminds me of stories
pedestrians, who want to see of holes. I am puzzled that you 16 November 2019, p 12 about their supposed intelligence.
ahead and around to be confident didn’t link this to the image a few From Tom Eddy, Esher, Surrey, UK My marine biology
that they will not be accosted. pages earlier of rather unpleasant Your article about recycling baccalaureate professor was Sneed
spotty bacterial patterns on agar electric car batteries was necessary Collard. He told us of a research
From Ian Wall, Edinburgh, UK gels (p 28). Isn’t it likely that some but depressing. I remember the project in which the investigator
Wheway rightly points out the people’s disgust at spots is related car industry being very keen would regularly head to the lab
importance of children being able to a reaction to decomposing 10 years ago to tell us that it was fridge for a fresh crab to feed his
to play safely in our streets. But food with bacterial and fungal designing cars for the whole life prized octopus. The octopus
cul-de-sacs are socially isolating colonies on it? cycle, including recycling. It is gradually approached closer and
and make direct pedestrian ironic that the greenest cars now closer to the edge of the aquarium.
movement difficult, encouraging seem to have drifted from this. On entering the lab one day, the
In praise of the bravery
higher vehicle use. This is always a problem with scientist found his animal friend
The solution is to build and of Neanderthal scientists new technology. Recycling dried out on the lab floor, halfway
rebuild roads on the shared space 1 February, p 14 develops only to treat current to the fridge, as if it had sought a
principle, with constant priority From Paul Wood, technology. Aluminium planes, midnight snack. ❚
given to pedestrians and vehicles Hamilton, New Zealand for example, were eminently
able to move only slowly. There is You report that Neanderthals may recyclable – but what happens
For the record
something seriously wrong with have climbed an active volcano with composite planes? Has
a society if the only place children soon after it erupted. I suspect anyone thought it through? ❚ Research into adding human
can play safely is a park to which that there were Neanderthals who genes to pigs to try to prevent donor
they need to be escorted. were protoscientists. They would, organs being rejected could solve
The frog is cold, but it
by observation, experiment the problem of the shortage of
and deduction, make startling definitely isn’t dead human donor organs, as organs
Attainment is the best
predictor of attainment discoveries. One might have been Letters, 11 January from normal pigs trigger a very
that a person who walked up a live From Simon Goodman, strong attack from the immune
18 January, p 9 volcano with a dry piece of wood Griesheim, Germany system (1 February, p 10).
From Peter Tymms, Durham, UK could walk back with fire. Michael Vandeman, asking ❚ It was December 2019 that was
Geneticist Robert Plomin believes You have previously reported whether we can draw a line the warmest month on record in
genetic testing can help to identify Europe, not the whole year
pupils who would benefit from (8 February, p 15).
educational interventions, Want to get in touch? ❚ When something has a heritability
and says a study that found Send letters to New Scientist, 25 Bedford Street, London of 55 per cent, genetic differences
a correlation of 0.4 between WC2E 9ES or letters@newscientist.com; see terms at explain about 30 per cent of the
polygenic scores and GCSE results newscientist.com/letters variation in it (25 January, p 34).
Views Aperture
A natural jewel
Bethan Ackerley
KACPER KOWALSKI / PANOS PICTURES
Views Culture
Film
Dark Waters
Directed by Todd Haynes
UK cinemas, 28 February
Don’t miss
Views Culture
The TV column
What if the Soviets won the space race? When people in the US see the Soviet Union
land on the moon first they are shocked and disheartened. But For All Mankind provides
an even bigger surprise when one cosmonaut’s identity is revealed, says Emily Wilson
SOUVENIR ISSUE
MOON LANDING
5OTH ANNIVERSARY
1969-2O19
THE
QUEST
FOR
SPACE
Don’t miss a special souvenir issue from
New Scientist celebrating the 50th anniversary
of the moon landings. Explore the past, present
and future of space exploration with over 100
pages of in-depth articles on the wonders of the
solar system, plus 20 pages of newly resurfaced
historical content from New Scientist’s archive
detailing the original space race as it happened
The secrets of
stress-free living
Some people never seem to get stressed out.
Understanding their unique resilience could help
change all our lives for the better, says Helen Thomson
Runaway response
This is all very handy when you are facing a
poisonous snake or an oncoming vehicle
because it enables you to start taking evasive
action before you have even registered the
threat. It also allows you to concentrate on
your work as a deadline looms, and focuses
Y
OU know that person. The one who Indianapolis and humour classes in Austria. your thoughts when speaking in front of an
uses a delayed train as an excuse to get This work is helping the military recruit audience. But sometimes the stress response
stuck into a good book. The one who can candidates for high-stress jobs. It has also led kicks in unnecessarily or is so powerful it
make a joke 10 seconds after breaking their to the first human trial of a “stress vaccine”, overwhelms us. Sudden or severe stress can
ankle. The one who loves giving presentations with the potential to inoculate us against its result in PTSD and depression. And low-level,
and never falters under pressure. They seem to devastating effects, from post-traumatic stress chronic stress creates a slew of health
float through life unfazed by the stress that can disorder (PTSD) to depression. But there is problems. With no let up, raised levels of
overwhelm the rest of us. What’s their secret? a bigger pay-off to understanding the secret adrenaline can damage blood vessels and
Are they blessed with stress-resistant genes? of stress-free living. Knowing why some increase the risk of heart attack and stroke.
Did their upbringing make them exceptionally people handle stress better than others, and Cortisol can cause digestive problems,
resilient? Have they learned specific ways the things we might all do to improve our weight gain and diabetes. And constant
of coping with life’s challenges? Or do they resilience, won’t just help all of us manage life’s modulation of the immune system can lead to
just know how to avoid stress altogether? daily struggles better, it might also teach us fatigue and physical and mental health issues.
To answer these questions, researchers have how to use stress to our advantage. Whether stress has positive or negative
been examining how humans and animals One thing is for certain: whether you are consequences often depends on how we
react and adapt to adversity, identifying those running late for an interview or coping with a deal with it. Your reaction to stress and how
who are particularly resilient to stress and personal loss, stress is unavoidable. In 2018, the quickly you return to normal when the
teasing apart the factors that contribute to this largest known study of stress levels in the UK stressor has passed is called resilience.
ability. It is a journey that has taken them from showed that three-quarters of people had been This is what varies significantly between
orphanages in Romania and interrogation so stressed in the past year that they had felt individuals. But what makes some of us so
chambers in North Carolina to fire stations in overwhelmed or unable to cope. It can be so resilient while others struggle to cope? >
original level more quickly afterwards, and in people without these. Stress can also
showing that they were better able to recover make your gut more leaky, allowing bacteria
from the stress they had experienced. In to escape into your bloodstream, which
addition, the more NPY an individual released, triggers inflammation that can lead to physical
the less confusion and fewer mental health and mental health problems. One study, for
issues they reported during the training. example, found that couples experiencing >
the chronic stress of a bad marriage had history as a stress reliever, and research shows
leakier guts than less hostile couples. But the that just eight weeks’ practice can trigger brain
relationship works in the other direction too. changes related to better emotional control
Mice given “good” bacteria called Lactobacillus and stress resilience that are similar to those
rhamnosus for 28 days before facing chronic seen in long-term meditators.
social stress were protected against some In future, we may even be able to inoculate
stress-induced behaviours. ourselves against stress (see “How to make a
Although there are still major gaps in our stress vaccine”, page 36). For now, James
understanding of the complex dialogue Murrough at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New
between gut and brain, there is substantial York, who is working on this, recommends
evidence that therapies aimed at changing the good mental hygiene. “This is about making
balance of microbes in the gut, and also what sure you have the right resources in place to
we eat, could have an exciting role in protecting help you cope,” he says. Alongside regular
FRANK GAGLIONE/GETTY IMAGES
us against – even reversing – the negative exercise, sufficient sleep and time out to relax,
consequences of stress. you should also cultivate your social networks.
“You have to put the work in to make sure your
social ties are healthy so that when stress
Cool profile occurs you can rely on them,” says Murrough.
All this makes it clear that people who “Data suggests that is your best bet for building
seem immune to stress are blessed with resilience against daily stress.”
a combination of attributes. We still don’t It doesn’t take long to get But don’t forget that a little stress isn’t a
have a scientific way to identify the ideal big stress-busting effects bad thing. In fact, it might just boost your
stress-resilient profile, but Belgian special from meditation cognition, if research on rats is anything to
forces are working on it. In one study, they go by. A team led by Daniela Kaufer at the
randomly subjected half their wannabe Such a resilience profile would be useful University of California, Berkeley, exposed
recruits to a highly stressful prisoner of war for any employer needing to recruit people rats to a stressful environment for 3 hours
exercise, while the others undertook mundane for stressful jobs. But what about the rest of while tracking the development of new
weapons training. Researchers wanted to us just wanting to cope better when we miss neurons in their hippocampus, a brain region
compare their hormone profiles and any a train or attend an interview? Of course, responsible for memory. Intriguingly, these
deterioration of cognitive functions in later there are plenty of ways to de-stress. Regularly cells proliferated more in the stressed animals
tests to gauge the effects of stress. The aim is to listening to music seems to alter many than in a control group. But the real surprise
use these markers in future selection exercises chemicals involved in our stress response, was the long-term effect. Rats that had been
to identify candidates likely to struggle in and lowers blood glucose, making challenges stressed did better in cognitive tests, even
stressful situations. They could also be used seem less stressful. Exercise also boosts weeks later, specifically engaging their new
to monitor soldiers in the field and measure hormones that can act to lower perceived neurons to help with these tasks. It isn’t yet
the impact of training on stress resilience. stress. Meditation, meanwhile, has a long possible to do this kind of study in humans,
but we do know that new neurons allow us
to learn better. “We think there are many
similarities between animals and humans,
but we’re not quite there yet,” says Kaufer.
The difference between Nevertheless, she is often asked what the
stress and anxiety perfect amount of stress is. “It’s impossible
to give you an exact figure,” she says. “The
Stress and anxiety are often or a few weeks, it normally ideal amount is going to be different from
intertwined in our minds, occurs within a discrete one person to another.” What someone finds
but they refer to different time frame. invigorating, another may find daunting. On
things. Stress is a biological Anxiety can be triggered top of that, what feels stressful one day might
process that results in a by stress, but it is a feeling not feel so another. “But if there is beneficial
series of chemical reactions that tends to hang around stress, then it’s likely to be something you can
within our body and brain after the initial threat or pinpoint yourself,” says Kaufer. “It’s probably
that help us focus on a challenge disappears. the difference between the stress that paralyses
challenging situation and If anxiety occurs most you and the stress that you can push through,
adapt our behaviour (see days for longer than six that makes you feel really great afterwards.” ❚
main story). months, it is known as
Stress can be a positive generalised anxiety
or negative experience disorder. This condition Helen Thomson is a consultant for
and although you may feel affects around 6.8 million New Scientist and author of
stressed for a few seconds, adults in the US each year. Unthinkable: An extraordinary journey
through the world’s strangest brains
Features
U
NTIL four years ago, stem-cell biologist to create shrimp meat without actual shrimp. commercialisation nears, difficult questions
Sandhya Sriram had never eaten Shiok is now close to doing something that are being asked and there are many unknowns.
seafood. Then she visited a shrimp has been talked about for decades but never Will regulators approve it? Will consumers
farm in Vietnam and realised she had to give realised: putting lab-grown meat onto people’s eat it? Is it safe? And is it as environmentally
it a go – which was odd, given what she saw plates. Sriram says her company is on course benign as proponents claim?
there. The conditions were “disgusting”, she to launch its cultured shrimp meat (pictured The dream of growing meat in a lab instead
says. The shrimp appeared to be growing in above) next year, an ambitious goal that would of on a farm goes back 25 years. The first
sewage, and were drenched in antibiotics and put Shiok at the forefront of a food revolution patents were issued in 1995, and in the early
bleach to clean them before consumption. that could be a game changer for humanity. 2000s, NASA funded research with the aim of
“These are things that should never be It is also the first step towards an alternative finding new ways to make nutritious food for
SHARAS CLICKZ/SHIOK MEATS
associated with food. That was my motivation.” to an industry that has done terrible damage long-distance space travellers.
Sriram went home to Singapore, quit her to the environment, poses an existential threat Things got more serious in 2013, when a
lab job and started a company called Shiok to human health and causes untold suffering patty made from cow muscle fibres grown in a
Meats. With co-founder Ka Yi Ling, she set to billions of animals every year. lab was cooked and eaten at a press conference.
about discovering how to grow shrimp muscle It is too soon to declare that the age of This was a “defining moment” for cultured
tissue from stem cells – in other words, how cultured meat has arrived, but as meat, says sociologist Neil Stephens at >
How to grow meat Brunel University London, elevating it from The technology hasn’t stood still. Back in
Meat can be made in the lab from a few starter cells
futuristic possibility to practical reality. 2013, the standard culture medium was bovine
Companies quickly sprang up all over fetal serum extracted from unborn calves,
the world, driven by a desire to right the which was both expensive and ethically
wrongs of livestock farming. Unlike the real troubling. The industry has now developed
thing, cultured meat is almost cruelty-free: animal-free alternatives using ingredients
aside from biopsies to obtain stem cells, grown in genetically modified bacteria.
no animals are harmed. In theory, the There are still technical challenges to
environmental footprint – all that land, water overcome, principally scaling up production
and pollution – shrinks to almost nothing, and getting the taste and texture right. Yet
Begin with a small although this is the subject of much debate. these are widely seen as solvable in the near
sample of cells Perhaps best of all, antibiotics become future. Nobody has yet achieved mass
unnecessary. In return, we get sin-free real production, but some companies can already
meat, in as large a quantity as we can eat. produce enough meat at an affordable-enough
price to launch a product in a restaurant, says
Elliot Swartz of the GFI. And while texture
Cellular agriculture matters a great deal if you want to grow a steak,
Grow the cells in a
bioreactor. To create Back in 2013, the technology was nowhere near it isn’t so important for minced beef or shrimp.
3D tissues, an edible ready for the market; the burger took three This is one reason why Sriram is so confident
scaffold is needed for
the cells to grow on months to grow at a cost of about €250,000. in Shiok. “Shrimp is only muscle and not any
Mark Post, at Maastricht University in the other tissue,” she says. “We don’t have to worry
Netherlands, the scientist behind the project, about fat or connective tissue. Definitely,
said it would take 10 or 20 years to make it crustacean cells are easier than land-based
commercially viable. But things have moved animals.” Shiok doesn’t even have to grow
faster than he anticipated. That doesn’t mean whole shrimp, just recreate the minced
Harvest the beef muscle cultured burgers, let alone steaks. Those are shrimp that is a staple in Asian cooking. Last
fibres or shrimp proteins still at least five years away, according to year, the firm demonstrated a prototype, and
and process them into Stephens. Seafood is a different story. is prepping for an invitation-only tasting event
food products
“We might see the first commercial sale at a meeting in Singapore in April.
soon, maybe in the next year,” says Stephens.
Shrimp or other crustacean meat will be
followed by salmon, tuna and white fish
and then mammal and bird meats. Other
animal products such as milk, leather and
wool are also in development.
Beneficial
As this “cellular agriculture” industry
develops, new battle lines are being drawn.
bugs
Cultured meat will be the biggest disruptive
technology to hit the food industry since The cleanness of cultured meat
genetic modification. How will the conventional compared with farmed alternatives
meat industry respond – embrace the new might be problematic. Conventional
technology or fight it tooth and nail? “It’s all meat has a microbiome that,
to play for in this space,” says Richard Parr at assuming the bacteria are benign,
the Good Food Institute (GFI), a US non-profit protects against food poisoning
organisation that promotes the development because the resident bacteria
of alternatives to animal products. outcompete hostile interlopers.
The cultured meat technology being refined But cultured meat comes out of
by Shiok and other companies – there are the bioreactor sterile and is a sitting
about 30 firms doing this around the world – duck for bacteria. “Uncolonised meat
is essentially the same as that used to grow is dramatically attractive to bacteria
the €250,000 burger. The main ingredient is and they can grow very rapidly,” says
a culture of muscle cells (often with fat cells microbiologist Elizabeth Wellington
too) growing on a support structure called a at the University of Warwick, UK.
scaffold, bathed in a liquid medium containing “That’s how food poisoning happens.”
nutrients and growth factors (see “How to It may prove necessary to inoculate
grow meat”, top left). The medium stimulates cultured meat with benign bacteria
the cells to proliferate, whereupon they to eliminate this risk, she says.
SHIOK MEATS
Another reason for the confidence coursing there,” says David Wagstaff of US company is so innovative that we don’t have an example
through the veins of the cultured meat JUST, which is developing cultured chicken to follow,” says Justyna Pałasińska at Pen & Tec
industry is the success of plant-based meat meat. “Taste, quality, consistency are the Consulting in Reading, UK, which helps food
substitutes such as the Impossible and Beyond fundamentals to any product and if you companies negotiate the regulatory labyrinth.
burgers and the vegan sausage roll sold by the don’t get those three right, it doesn’t matter Another unknown is what the labelling
UK bakery chain Greggs. But there are also how welfare-friendly you are, people won’t requirements will be, which could have a
some salutary lessons from plant-based meats. buy your product again.” huge influence on consumer perceptions.
Despite their vegan halo, there is a growing This wariness is one of the biggest barriers That is a further reason why eyes are on
awareness that they are ultra-processed to commercialisation, says Swartz. “What’s Singapore: its regulatory regime is seen as
foods often high in fat and salt. Worse, many holding them back is the burden of being the being more friendly to cultured meat than
of the products flooding onto the market aren’t first to release a product. If it isn’t really good, those of the US or European Union. Last
good enough, says Robert Lawson, the former then it could make people less excited than November, the Singapore Food Agency (SFA)
head of meat-substitute company Quorn. they could be.” released the country’s first “novel food”
“Consumers are open to trying, but they will Another obstacle is red tape. Before cultured regulations, in part to respond to looming
walk away if they eat rubbish.” meat can be sold and eaten, regulators will food security issues. The island city state has
The cultured meat industry is aware of this have to be satisfied that it is fit for human almost no agriculture and imports 90 per cent
risk. “We should always remember that we are consumption. As yet, it isn’t clear how the of its food. Cultured meat is seen as part of
ALAMY
no different from any other food products out regulatory system will work. “Lab-grown meat the solution, says Kelvin Ng at the Singapore
Agency for Science, Technology and Research.
This will increasingly become a
consideration elsewhere, says Charles
Godfray, director of the Oxford Martin School
at the University of Oxford and co-author of
a recent World Economic Forum report on the
future of meat. “We can feed 7 billion, but by
mid-century, food security will be an issue.”
The SFA wouldn’t comment about whether
any company has yet submitted a novel food
for evaluation. Shiok told New Scientist that
it will file one later this year and the SFA says
it will process applications in just three to
six months. Once the regulatory authorities
receive an application, the key question will
be whether the meat is safe to eat. This may
be trickier than it sounds. One selling point
is that it is “clean”: that, unlike carcass meat,
it won’t be exposed to dangerous bacteria
during processing. “We don’t have to slaughter
animals, so there is less susceptibility to
contamination from faeces,” says Neta Lavon
of Israeli company Aleph Farms. But, ironically,
cultured meat may be too clean (see “Beneficial
bugs”, opposite).
Other food-safety issues may come to light
This cultured too. One possibility – albeit a remote one – is
salmon was that the cells will produce toxic metabolites,
WILD TYPE
encephalopathy (BSE). Growth medium “Cultured meat is still an abstract idea, it’s not
residues in the meat may also be problematic, something we can test consumer acceptability
says Pałasińska, and there is zero data about for,” says Laura Wellesley at independent UK
possible long-term effects. policy institute Chatham House, who co-wrote
Even if regulators clear it, will consumers a paper on meat alternatives for the EU. Finding
eat it? As a rule, tastings of prototypes generate the right name for these new products will be
positive reviews. Liz Specht of the GFI has crucial (see “What’s in a name?”, right).
tasted two cultured meat products: Memphis One obvious selling point is compassion,
Meats’ duck “breast” and salmon by a company both for animals and the planet. Cultured
called Wild Type. Both were impressively meat isn’t entirely animal-free because of the
authentic, she says – although they were need for cell lines, but its welfare issues are
prepared by professional chefs, which may negligible in comparison with conventional
be hard to replicate at home. meat. One small farm could meet the global
And even if the final product is excellent, demand for cells, says Lavon.
that is no guarantee of acceptance. As Cultured meat also has a reputation for
proponents of genetic modification found, being greener. This seems a reasonable
even demonstrably superior food can be assumption: conventional livestock farming
doomed by consumer perceptions. In a contributes around 15 per cent of greenhouse
recent survey of attitudes in the US, more than gas emissions and is a voracious consumer
60 per cent of people said they were willing to of land, water, energy and pesticides. Shrimp
try cultured meat, but about 40 per cent said farms are also a destroyer of coastal habitats,
ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
they were put off by its unnaturalness. especially mangroves and salt marshes.
Until the food actually gets on to the market, To produce 1 calorie of edible meat, on
with whatever labelling is mandated, there is average, it takes 7 calories of agricultural
no way to know how it will be received. inputs, says Kurt Schmidinger of Austrian NGO
80
Meat consumption (million tonnes)
60
40
20
0
1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010
WORLD
600
HANS SILVESTER/GETTY IMAGES
400
Forecast
200
Antibiotics are
0 used heavily when
1960 1990 2020 2050 animals are reared
SOURCE: WORLD ECONOMIC FORUM in close quarters
Features
In hot water
When the sex of your offspring is tuned to
temperature, not chromosomes, a warming
world looks risky. Sofia Deleniv investigates
W
E HAVE all seen images of polar backboneless invertebrates, sex is
bears stranded at sea on chunks determined by sex chromosomes inherited
of ice. This charismatic species from their parents. Among humans and
has become a poster child for the devastating other mammals, for example, most females
effects of climate change. But as the world have two X chromosomes, while males have
warms, spare a thought for another group of one X and one Y chromosome. But some
animals that face a unique challenge. These are fish species and many reptiles, including
the creatures whose entire reproductive future crocodiles, alligators and marine turtles, take
depends on how hot their environment is. a different approach. They are at the mercy of
The threat from climate change to animals ambient temperatures, which flick a switch
whose sex is determined by temperature that dictates whether the embryo will develop
seems obvious. Higher temperatures cause into a male or a female. In reptiles, the critical
them to produce offspring primarily of one period of temperature sensitivity occurs
sex, a skew that would appear to put them on during egg incubation. In fish, it is after
the road to extinction. But the curious fact is, hatching, at the larval stage.
this group contains some of the most ancient There is now abundant evidence that global
lineages in the animal kingdom – from warming is leading to increasingly unequal sex
crocodiles and turtles to fish and even a ratios in these creatures. For most, that means
reptile-like “living fossil” called the tuatara – an excess of females. Take most species of
and they have survived repeated bouts of marine turtles, which usually hatch as females
global warming in the past. if incubated at temperatures above 26°C. Many
So how have they made it this far given their studies confirm that in recent, warmer, years
apparent sensitivity to temperature? To what they have produced female-heavy hatchling
extent does the current warming differ from populations. And projections reveal that the
events they have faced before? And should situation could get more extreme very soon.
DAMOCEAN/GETTY IMAGES
we worry about their survival? Researchers One study, for example, calculated that in
rushing to answer these questions have made green sea turtle populations the proportion of
some surprising discoveries, including a females will rise from the current level of 52 per
sexual innovation that might have helped cent to between 76 and 93 per cent by 2100.
these species survive climate change in the That sounds disastrous, but there are
past. This innovation could have been key to some glimmers of hope. For a start, some of
the evolution of birds, and even explain why these animals are taking steps to influence
they are the only dinosaur descendants today. their destiny. Female marine turtles, for
What’s more, the plight of these species may example, have begun nesting earlier, when
not be as far removed from us as it seems. There conditions are cooler. What’s more, research
are now intriguing hints that global warming published in 2019 reveals that turtle embryos
is having an effect on the sex ratios of newborn may move around within their eggs to find
humans too (see “Girls like it hot”, page 46). cooler spots and so play a part in determining
For many animals, including the their own sex. Such strategies can help to
C1A1P1C1O1M1/GETTY IMAGES
gets hot – the number of species that do it
is unknown but it includes commercially
important ones such as sea bass, tilapia and
grayling. In both freshwater and marine
species, the sex ratio can shift from equal
numbers to three males for every female
if temperatures rise by just 1°C to 2°C, which mutated genes would, de facto, become a during their evolutionary history, each one
is lower than some projections of the rise nascent sex chromosome, obliging embryos thought to coincide with global temperature
in global sea temperatures by the end of that inherit it to become female. Only embryos peaks. This gives grounds for optimism that
this century as a result of global warming. inheriting two copies of the chromosome it can happen again.
Many of these species have sex lacking the mutated genes would be capable The major difference this time, however,
chromosomes that would normally dictate of developing into males. is that along with rising temperature, the
whether they become male or female, but This is precisely the system universally animals face other challenges their ancestors
temperature routinely overrides these genetic found in birds, where females have a set of didn’t have to deal with. “Many species have
instructions. Some fish, such as Nile tilapia, may ZW sex chromosomes – where W dictates lost the connecting habitat that would have
be contributing to this effect and fast-tracking femaleness – and males have ZZ. According allowed them to shift their distributions to
the development of a sex imbalance in their to Pezaro and his colleagues, birds might be more suitable climates in the past,” says
own populations. A recent study found that a prime example of animals whose ancestors Mitchell. Habitat destruction also reduces
they prefer spending time in warmer waters originally had temperature-dependent sex population sizes, which can limit the ability to
during their critical period of development, determination, but who evolved a pro-female adapt. “The likelihood of harbouring beneficial
causing many genetically female tilapia to sex chromosome as a way out of a catastrophic genetic variants is significantly greater in
effectively convert themselves into males. male bias. This, the researchers suggest, larger populations,” says Pezaro. “And many
could have been triggered by the evolution of today’s populations are nowhere near the
of hot-bloodedness and egg-brooding sizes they were at their historic peaks.” That
A sexual revolution behaviour, which maintained incubating means they have less of the raw material on
So how will things pan out for these species eggs at consistent, warm temperatures. The which evolution can get to work. And even
as global temperatures continue to rise? Will evolution of sex chromosomes might have if they can adapt, they may not be able to
populations become trapped in a runaway contributed to the rise of birds in the fossil evolve fast enough if the rate of temperature
male bias and go extinct? That is certainly a record some 150 million years ago. Meanwhile, change outpaces the speed at which they
possibility. However, a study by Pezaro and some researchers believe that continued can reproduce.
others suggests there may be a way out, one reliance on temperature-dependent sex Here is yet another reason why we need
that appears to have been used in the past. determination may have played a role in the to act now to limit climate change and
According to their model, a prolonged eventual demise of the dinosaurs. Birds are environmental degradation. Our efforts
shortage of females could eventually trigger their only descendants alive today. won’t just help polar bears on thin ice, they
the evolution of a primitive sex chromosome This evolutionary innovation could also be will also help turtles, tilapia and tuataras that
dictating female development. This might the saving strategy for today’s species that rely find themselves in increasingly hot water. ❚
begin with a chance event in which one or on temperature to determine sex. Some of the
more genes become mutated, causing them to fish involved already have sex chromosomes,
switch off the genes that regulate an embryo’s so the solution for them could be to simply Sofia Deleniv is a doctoral
thermal sensitivity. This would prevent it find a way to prevent temperature overriding student in neuroscience at
from developing into a male, whatever the these. And evidence suggests that turtles have the University of Oxford
temperature. The chromosome carrying these evolved sex chromosomes at least six times
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JAMES WINSPEAR
batter into a soft solid. Flour also
300 grams plain flour contains proteins that, in the
1 teaspoon of baking powder presence of water, link together
Half a teaspoon of sodium in a network of long chains. We
bicarbonate call this gluten. Along with egg
1 teaspoon of salt proteins, gluten contributes to the Science of cooking online
1 tablespoon of sugar structure of a pancake. But unlike All projects are posted at
2 eggs a bread dough, we want to limit newscientist.com/cooking Email: cooking@newscientist.com
600 millilitres buttermilk gluten development in the batter
60 grams melted butter to keep the texture of the pancake
Maple syrup tender rather than chewy. That is instead of or as well as baking resulting pancake. If you see dark
why it should be made quickly, powder – in this recipe we add spots on the pancake, it might
For next week with minimal stirring. both. If you don’t have buttermilk, mean the bicarb needs mixing
Large jar Baking powder is one way to you can substitute it with ordinary more thoroughly into the batter.
Cabbage produce bubbles. It contains an milk with a tablespoon of lemon To make my pancakes, mix all
Spring onion alkali – sodium bicarbonate (or juice for every 250 millilitres. the dry ingredients together. In
Salt, garlic, ginger, chilli bicarb) – along with an acid The batter’s pH also influences another bowl, beat the eggs and
(usually potassium bitartrate) and how quickly the pancake browns add the buttermilk and melted
Next in the series some starch to absorb moisture. as it cooks. We encountered this butter. Then mix the two together
1 Caramelising onions Add liquid, and the acid and alkali principle in an earlier column and drop a ladleful into a lightly
2 Making cheese can react together, producing when caramelising onions. In oiled pan on a medium heat. Cook
3 Science of crispiness carbon dioxide. The reaction is pancakes, too, alkaline conditions until nicely browned on both
4 Tofu and Sichuan pepper helped along by heat when the speed up the Maillard reactions sides, and serve with maple syrup.
5 Gravlax and curing batter hits the frying pan. Batters between amino acids and sugars If you add blueberries to the
6 Tempering chocolate containing baking powder should that give us the brown colour and batter and they turn green, your
7 Umami and flavour be cooked straight away, otherwise delicious flavour we’re looking for. mix is too alkaline. Anthocyanin
8 Perfect pancakes the gas will escape before cooking. In his book The Food Lab, J. Kenji and related pigments in fruit are
9 Kimchi/fermentation Alternatively, you can include López-Alt demonstrates this by sensitive to pH and change colour
Create a tasty acidic ingredients, such as cooking five batches of pancakes in alkaline environments (for
microbial ecosystem buttermilk or sour cream, then with different amounts of bicarb. more on these fruit pigments
10 Sourdough bread add sodium bicarbonate, either The more there is, the darker the see Almost the last word, page 54). ❚
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www.galaxyonglass.com
+44 (0) 7814 181647 Chris@galaxyonglass.com
detect signs of wrongdoing. But her If you could send a message back to yourself
as a kid, what would you say?
“Some images
efforts to make things right are often
met with resistance, she says
Don’t worry that you are that weird, nerdy kid who look fine at first
wants to become an ornithologist at age 8, although
you might end up studying microbes instead. but then I see
So, what do you do?
I scan the biomedical literature for scientific papers Is there a discovery or achievement you wish
duplications
with duplicated images. There are several causes of you’d made yourself? and suddenly
I realise the
duplicates, ranging from honest errors to sloppy I have always been intrigued by Barry Marshall and
data management or deliberate intention to Robin Warren’s discovery that Helicobacter bacteria
mislead. If I find papers with image or other
concerns, I write to the editors of the journal or
cause gastric ulcers. It is such a great illustration of
how hard it can be to study microorganisms – not
whole image is
to the affiliated institutions. all of them can be grown easily in the lab. Marshall
ended up drinking an H. pylori culture to prove
photoshopped”
What's wrong with duplicates? they were right.
The duplicated images fall into three broad
categories. There is the simple duplication, in which If you could have a conversation with any
the whole photo is inserted twice within the same scientist living or dead, who would it be?
paper. This type is the most likely to be an honest Robert Koch, who discovered the Vibrio bacterium
mistake. The second category is a duplicated photo that causes cholera. I read one of his papers from the
that has been mirrored, flipped, rotated, shifted or 1800s and it is brilliant. I would also like to hear
stretched. These duplications are less likely to be Rosalind Franklin’s side of the story about the
errors, and more likely to have been done discovery of the structure of DNA.
intentionally. Thirdly, images that contain
duplicated cells or bands within the same photo are
the most likely to have been manipulated. Do you have an unexpected hobby, and
if so, please will you tell us about it?
Are the duplications hard to spot? I love gardening, such as pruning shrubs or
Some images in scientific papers look fine at first repairing sprinkler installations. I also collect
glance, but then I start to see duplicated parts, and tortoise and turtle figurines.
suddenly I realise that the whole image is
photoshopped. Some of these manipulated photos
are so elaborate that you wonder why the authors What’s the best thing you’ve read or seen
didn’t just perform the experiment instead. in the past 12 months?
Bad Blood, John Carreyrou’s book about the now-
How did you end up doing this? discredited tech firm Theranos. I was headhunted
I started out looking for papers containing to work there, and I am glad I turned that down.
plagiarised text. After a year of doing that, I
discovered some papers with duplicated images, How useful will your skills be after
and decided to perform a systematic scan of the the apocalypse?
biomedical literature. This quickly grew into a study I would be good at detecting zombie clones... ❚
with colleagues of over 20,000 papers, with about
4 per cent containing problematic images. We Elisabeth Bik’s blog is ScienceIntegrityDigest.com
estimate that about half of these duplications are @MicrobiomDigest #ImageForensics
done with the intention to mislead. BRIAN HAGIWARA/GETTY IMAGES
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