Chapter 1

Company Overview

(At Welspun, we don’t just weave the best textiles in the world. We weave innovation
with people to create stories.)

Welspun, Anjar is bifurcated into three plants; Textile, Pipes and Power Plant. Everyday
approximately 20,000 employees enter from W-Gate i.e. the main entrance. Situated in
Kutch, the area faces scarcity of water; yet the amount of greenery that can be seen in
the company is tremendous.

Welspun India is a textile company based in Mumbai. It is Asia's largest and the largest
Terry Towel producer in the world. It exports more than 94 per cent of its home textiles
products to more than 50 countries. It exports more than 68 percent of its production to
the US, 23 per cent of its production to the UsS, 23 percent to Europe and the balance
to Middle East, Australia, Mauritius. It supplies to 17 out of the top 30 retail chains in
the world.In 2016 it got embroiled in a scandal for allegedly mislabeling its bedsheets
as made out of Egyptian Cotton. Target has severed ties with Welspun over this issue.

It is statistically proven that every 2nd towel and every 5th bed sheet used in America is
produced at Welspun. The company got to receive this height after taking over Christy
– a long-established manufacturer of household linens and known as the first inventor
of first industrially produced looped cotton towel.

Welspun, a 2500 acre township is setup in the heart of Anjar. It was established in the
year 2004 with the initial investment 13500 million rupees.

Welspun Textile mill produces terry towel and bed linen of the finest and the best quality
of the world. These produces are mostly export to the top retailers of the globe which
includes most of the foreign 100 companies like Wal-Mart, Target and J.C. penny
amongst others.

Welspun is additionally a prime example of the Continues efforts of the protecting the
environment with the strong emphasis on a-forestation. The township is in the process
1
of turning itself in the creation the largest green belt in the area with the veritable forest
of about 500,000 trees which includes the Jatropha tree, the drought resistant perennial
whose seeds is used to produce bio- diesel.

Welpun is one of the most academically-well run companies in India. The company is
running on lean manufacturing. Despite the fact that the tools were not applied
organically, the company has evolved step by step and established itself to be a world
class manufacturing. Some of the major lean tools implemented are 5S, 7S, kaizen and
poka-yoke.

The mesmerizing part about implementing these tools is that employees accepted it and
adapted into it willingly. Welspun proudly appreciates its employees and that’s how the
employee turnover is very low. Various signs and notices are posted within the plant;
they all are motivators and for employee safety.

Apart from just personal development of Welspun, the company focuses on developing
the area around it. They come up with various schemes to come over water scarcity and
help people grow.

Welspun recently inaugurated Wel-Homes i.e. a residential area with every possible
amenities in order to provide a good locality for its employees and their families. They
have their schools and club houses also within the same dia.

1.1. Milestones:

2016 Achieved production and sales of 1 mn tons in Line Pipes for the fourth
consecutive year Ranked No 1 Home Textile exporter to US for fourth
consecutive year Signed Share Purchase Agreement with Tata Power
for Renewable Energy business divestment

2015 Achieved production, sales & order booking of 1 mn tons in Line Pipes
for 3 consecutive years Sold Maxsteel (DRI) business acquired in 2009
from Vikram Ispat (Maxsteel) Ranked No 1 Home Textile exporter to
US for third consecutive year Commissioned India’s largest spinning
facility under one roof at Anjar, Gujarat Partial divestment of Dewas

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 Bhopal Road project Merger of Welspun Enterprises and Welspun
Projects to create stronger entity

2014 Achieved production, sales & order booking of 1 mn tons in Pipes for 2nd consecutive
Ranked No 1 Home Textile supplier to US for second consecutive year

2013 Achieved production, sales & order booking of 1 mn tons in Line Pipes
Demerger of non-pipe business - O&G, Steel, Energy & Infra to
“Welspun Enterprises” Home Textiles business re-organization and
consolidation of textiles business under a single umbrella to create
unified stronger entity Ranked no 1 : Home textiles supplier in US by
Home Textiles Today (HTT)

2012 Overseas Capacity Expansion

Initiates new 175,000 MTPA HFIW plant in USA

2011 Strengthens Infrastructure foray

Acquired 35% stake in Leighton Contractors (India) Pvt Ltd.
Huge Equity Sale
Apollo invested USD 350 mn in the Welspun Group
Massive Capacity Expansion – India
New 350,000 MTPA LSAW plant in Anjar

2010 Foray into Energy Business

Welspun Energy is born
Entry into Infrastructure
Acquisition of MSK Projects India Ltd.
Pipes business consolidated under new entity
Welspun Corp is born
Manufacturing facility in Middle East
Acquisition of majority stake in Aziz European Pipe factory in Saudi
Arabia

2009 Plate cum Coil Mill at Anjar

Acquires Vikram Ispat, the sponge iron business of Grasim Industries
First Greenfield pipe facility overseas
Plant at Little Rock, Arkansas, US

3
2008 Global No 2 in Large Diameter Pipe Business
Survey by Financial Times, London

2006 First international acquisition

Leading UK based towel brand ‘Christy’
Enters Oil and Natural Gas exploration
Joint Venture with Adani group

2005 Setting up of Welspun City, Anjar

Home textile and pipe facilities expanded

2001 JV with Eupec Coatings GmbH, Germany

Sets up Pipe coating facility inDahej, Gujarat

2000 First international facility

Welspun USA in New York

1999 First global association

JV with Vincenzo Zucchi, Italy

1997 Diversification into Pipes business

SAW pipe unit at Dahej, Gujarat, India

1993-95 Manufacturing
Terry Towel plant at Vapi, Gujarat, India

1985 Welspun is founded as a Textiles business

Unit at Palghar, Maharashtra

4
 Chapter 2

Spinning
Spinning is a process of conversion of fibres (raw material) which possess certain
characteristics into yarn of desirable characteristics through various stages. It is the first
steps of textile product processing. Fibre extrusion or conversion of filaments from
Polymers was also considered as “Spinning”.

Flow Chart of Spinning Unit

BLOWROOM

CARDING

BREAKER(Draw frame)

COMBING

FINISHER DRAWFRAME

SPEED FRAME( SIMPLEX)

RING FRAME

AUTO CONER

PACKAGING
5
 Serial Number COTTON NAME
1 Supima Cotton
2 Egyptian cotton
3 CMSS Cotton
4 Pima Cotton
5 Tensel cotton
6 CVC Cotton
7 Organic cotton
8 Normal cotton
Table: Variations of Cotton Used

NAME OF NAMEOF MODEL COMAPNY NUMBER

THE MACHINE NUMBER NAME OF
PROCESS MACHINE
Bale plucker LA 23/5 LMW 3
Blowroom Vario clean LB 9/2 LMW 2
Unimix LB 7/4 LMW 4
Flexi Clean LB 5/6 LMW 5
SP-FPU Trutzsehler 5
Condensor LVS-B Trutzsehler 5
carding Card LC-361 LMW 53
Breaker LD 2 LMW 10
(Draw frame)
Lap former LH 15 LMW 5
combing Comber LK 64Z LMW 28
finishing Finisher LRSB 851 LMW 18
Draw frame
Simplex Rovematic Electro- Jet 20
ADR
Ring frame Ring frame LR 9/AXL LMW 104
Autoconer AutoconorX5 Saurer 100

Autoconor 6 Schalafhorst 4
Table: Machines in Spinning Unit 3

2.1 Departmental Analysis:

2.1.1. Blowroom

i. Objectives

a. To open the compressed bales of fibers

6
 b. Remove dirt and dust, broken leaves, seed particles or any other foreign impurities
from the fibers.
c. To transfer the opened and clean fiber into a sheet form of definite width and uniform
weight/unit length; this is called lap.
d. To roll the lap pre-determined length into a cylindrical shape around a lap pin.
e. To transfer the lap from the lap pin to a lap road to suitably handle and feed it to the
subsequent machine i.e. carding.

ii. Process Sequence of Blowroom

. • BALE PLUCKER
. • VARIO CLEAN
• UNIMIX
• FLEXI CLEAN
• SP-FPU
• CONDENSER

a. Bale Plucker

• Higher production up to 1500kg/hr.

• Double pucker rollers.
• Bigger & flexible suction hose.
• Automatic turning of the head at any point of truck.
• Easily replaceable plucking strip.
• Up-down movement.
• Track length - 10 to 50 meter.
• m/c weight - 5110 kg.

b. Vario Clean

• To open the fiber tufts by beater.

• To extracted the seed particles(heavy waste) known as dropping.
• To eliminate the micro-dust particles.

Salient features:-

• Higher production up to 1500kg/hr.

• Opening, cleaning and removal of dust.
• Programmable grid adjustment and beater speed.
• Waste collection by rollers.
• Higher cleaning efficiency.
7
 c. Unimix

FStorage:- It stores upto 350-400kg material as a reserve, whenever there is any

problem in the outcome of bale-pucker or vireo-clean then it transfers the material into
the card .

Homogeneously mixing:- There are six chute in unimix and they all are
homogeneously mix at the conveyor belt because here one chute material laying
on other chute material and then all are homogeneously transfer to the opener
roller.

Opening:-By the opener roller and grid bar assembly waste are extracted from
the cotton.

d. Flaxi Clean

• Efficient micro-dust removal

• Controlled waste removal by grid bar and saw tooth or needle beaters
arrangement.
• Constantly and uniformly material transfer to the next machine.
8
 Salient features:-

• Higher production rate up to 600kg/hr. with mini. Space requirement.

• Variable production achieve by inverter drive.
• Gentle opening and maximum cleaning efficiency for wide verity of fibers.

Machine Part Specification

Perforated roller diameter: 250mm
Perforated roller speed: 14rpm
Opening roller diameter: 400mm
Opening roller speed : 425 to 976 rpm
Opening roller width: 1200mm
Production rate: Maximum 600 kg/hr.
M/c length: 1000mm
M/c width: 2100mm
M/c height: 4000mm
Table: Technical Specifications (Flaxi Clean)

e. SP-FPU

• Manufacturer- Truztschler
• contamination removal
• In addition to natural contamination, white and transparent particles (e.g. PP or
PE foil) oftencause quality problems in the blow room.
• Foreign parts and foreign fibers must be dividedinto two completely different
groups.
• The other group is made up of brightand transparent foreign parts that hardly
differin color from cotton and therefore are invisibleto conventional separators.

f. Condenser

• Transfer the open tuft fiber material to

next machine by pneumatically through
pipe line.
• To clean the dust from the material.

Figure: Condenser

iii. Some Observations:

9
Factors Observations
No. of Workers One worker on each system. There are total 2
simultaneous systems that run at a time.
Time taken for each process This is a continuous process. The machine only
rests when another setoff bale is being laid.
Wastage 11% wastage is generated from the blowroom.
Use of waste The waste collected is segregated as:

a. Disposable waste: The waste that

can not be recycled; which are-
I. Seeds
II. Hard waste
III. Broken leaves etc.
b. Recyclable waste:
I. Left-over cotton
II. Semi-cleaned cotton
III. Sweeping waste etc.

Quantity of Output The quality of output is as per the quality of

input set in the carding machine. If there is a
variation between the two, there will be a siren
that will be played that will not accept the
incoming lap from the blowroom.
Material Handling From blowroom to the carding the cleaned
cotton is transferred using pipes that are
attached directly to the carding machines.
Faults a. If wet cotton- the process gets jam
b. If there is any foreign impurity like
seed in the unimix, there will be
fire.

Quality parameters a. A constant collection of the left-

over cotton and segregation of the
same into various categories.
b. In one shift, there is approximately
11% waste generated from the
blowroom taking all types of waste
into account.
c. 7s implemented; so constant
cleanliness is at par.
d. Safety is ensured as the workers are
provided with masks and earplugs
which are compulsory.

10
 e. The waste or disposable cotton is
collected in bags and emptied in the
store where they are further
segregated into the following types
of waste:
I. Dropping
II. Dust
III. Filter waste

Table: General Observations on Blowroom

2.1.2. Carding

Carding is a mechnaical process

that disentangles, cleans, and
intermixes fibres to produce a
continuous web or sliver suitable
for subsequent processing. This is
achieved by passing the fibers
between differentially moving
surfaces covered with card clothing.
Picture: Carding

i. Objectives of carding:

a. To open the tuft of fibers

b. To make the fibers parallel and straight
c. To remove remaining trace particles
d. To remove short fibers
e. To remove naps
f. To produce a rave like fiber called sliver, which is uniform in per unit length.
“The carding machine is located in the spinning process between the
blow room and the drawing frame. It is called as Heart of spinning.”

Factors Observations

Card No 53

Company No LMW

Model No LC 361

Delivery Speed 96 MPM

11
 Sliver Hank 0.1397 NE

Production 24.23 KG/HR

Delivery Variations 20%

Feed Variations 36%

Table: Observations of Carding Machine No. 53

There are 54 machines for carding, they all take in the lap coming from the blowroom
as their input.

ii. Some Observations:

Factors Observations
Four workers on each row. There are total
No. of Workers
three rows that run at a time.
This is a continuous process. The machine
Time taken for each process only rests when the tanks are being
unloaded from the system.
Wastage 1% wastage is generated from the carding.
The waste collected and sent to the store.
Use of waste This waste is sold for making some other
materials like carpets etc.
The quality of output is dependent upon the
number of twists and clean fibers. The
Quantity of Output
unclean and un-twisted fibers are rejected
and sent to trash.
If the incoming lap is not matching with the
Faults specifications inserted into the system, the
machine stops..
From Carding to draw frame, the tanks are
Material Handling moved manually. Although, changing of
tanks within the machine is automatic.
a. A constant collection of the left-
over lap
b. In one shift, there is approximately
1% waste generated from the
Quality parameters
carding taking all types of waste
into account.
c. 7s implemented; so constant
cleanliness is at par.

12
 d. Safety is ensured as the workers
are provided with masks and
earplugs which are compulsory.
e. Types of wastes that may occur-
I. Taker in waste
II. Flat strip
III. Motes and files
IV. Sliver cut
V. Filter waste

Table: General Observations on Carding

2.1.3. Breaker – Draw Frame

“Drawing is the operation by which slivers are blended, doubled and levelled.”

i. Objectivess of drawing: -

• To open the tuft of straightening of crimped and hooked fibers

• Paralleling of fibers
• To produce more uniform of sliver of definite weight/yard
• To reduce the weight/yard of material feed
• To make perfect blending/mixing of the component fibers

Factors Observations

Breaker No 1

Company Name LMW

Model No LD 2

Count 80s NORMAL

WPG 0.134

Doubling 5

Hank 0.1333

Delivery Speed 506 MPM

Doff Length 6400 MTRS

Table: Observations on Breaker – Draw Frame No. 1

ii. Some Observations:

13
 Factors Observations
No. of Workers One worker for 5 machines.
This is a continuous process. The machine
Time taken for each process only rests when the tanks are being
unloaded from the system.
1% wastage is generated from the breaker
Wastage
draw frame.
The output on this stage is a lap and its
quality of output is dependent upon the
Quantity of Output
efficiency in paralleling the fibres for the
next process.
Faults Small hooks maybe left unseen.
From draw frame to comber, the tanks are
Material Handling moved manually. Although, changing of
tanks within the machine is automatic.
a. A constant collection of the left-
over fibers
b. 7s implemented; so constant
cleanliness is at par.
c. Safety is ensured as the workers
Quality parameters are provided with masks and
earplugs which are compulsory.
d. Types of wastes that may occur-
I. Filter waste
II. Cleaner waste
VI. Sliver cut

Table: General Observations on Breaker Draw Frame

2.1.4. Comber

“The combing process is carried out in order to improve the quality of the sliver coming
out of the card. The process eliminates short fibres, it achieves better parallelization of
fibres, it straightens curls, and it removes neps and residue impurities.”

14
 i. Objectives of comber: -
a. To remove the fibers shorter than a pre-determined length.
b. To remove the remaining impurities in the comber lap.
c. To remove naps in the carded sliver.
d. To make the fibers more parallel and straight.
e. To produce a uniform sliver of required per unit length.

Factors Observations
Comber No 15
Company Name LMW
Model No LK 64Z
Count 8 OS/100SSUPIMA
Del. WPG 0.16
Hanks 0.160 NE
Can Capacity 7328 NPM
Speed 360 NPM
Doubling 8
Draft 3 OVER 3
Table: Specifications of Comber Machine 15

ii. Some Observations:

Factors Observations

No. of Workers One worker for four machines.

Time taken for each process This is a continuous process.

3% wastage is generated from the

Wastage
Combing.

15
 The output on this stage is the lap and its
quality of output is dependent upon the
length of fibres generated in the form of lap
Quantity of Output after this process.

Small fibres may sometimes get ignored but

they don’t affect much as the difference is
Faults not noticeable.

From comber to roving, the tanks are

moved manually. Although, changing of
Material Handling laps within the machine is automatic.

a. A constant collection of the

rejected fibers.
b. 7s implemented; so constant
cleanliness is at par.
c. Safety is ensured as the workers are
Quality parameters provided with masks and earplugs
which are compulsory.
d. Waste generated- Comber Noel and
naps. These can be used for some
other end product.

Table: General Observations on Comber

2.1.5. Finisher – Draw Frame

Used to convert laps to sliver.

16
 Picture: Draw Frames

i. Specifications of finisher draw frame

Factors Observations

No. of Finisher Draw frames 8

Company Name LMW

Model Number LRSB 851

Count 80s NE

Hanks O.163 NE
Doff Length 5290 MTRS

Doubling 6
Table: Specifications of Finisher Draw Frame

ii. Some Observations:

Factors Observations
No. of Workers One worker for three machines.
Time taken for each process This is a continuous process.
Wastage 1% wastage is generated from this stage.
The output on this stage is sliver and its
quality of output is dependent upon the
Quantity of Output efficiency in parallel fibres and number of
twists generated in the sliver for the next
process.
Faults Twists maybe higher.
From finisher draw frame to roving, the
tanks are moved manually. Although,
Material Handling
changing of tanks within the machine is
automatic.
a. A constant collection of the left-
over fibers.
b. 7s implemented; so constant
Quality parameters cleanliness is at par.
Safety is ensured as the workers
are provided with masks and
earplugs which are compulsory.

Table: General Observations on Finisher Draw Frame

17
2.1.6. Speed Frame

i. Objectives of speed frame-

• To draft the sliver to reduce weight per unit length.

• To insert small amount of twist to strengthen the roving to prevent breakage
during next processing.
• To make conical or tapper shape of the bobbin.

ii. Process of speed frame

• Draw frame slivers are fed to the roving frame in large cans.
• The slivers are passed through separators and then over the guide rollers and
tension rollers.
• Now the slivers are passed through the drafting rollers. There is dead weight
over these drafting rollers.
• The delivered slivers are too thin to hold themselves together and so twist is
needed.
• The drafted strands of fibers are then passed through Flyers.
• These Flyers create twist in the fiber strands by rotating.
• There are spindles in the Flyers on which the twisted fibers i.e. roving are wound.

iii. Specifications of speed frames

Features Observations
Simplex Machines 20
Company Name ELECTRO- JET
Model No ROVOMATIC ADR
Material 100% COTTON
Delivery Speed 15.5 MTS/MIN
Bobbin Diameter 166MM
Twistx Meter 67.5 TPM
Drafting 4 OVER 3
Flyers RPM 1059
Table: Specifications of Speed Frame

iv. Some Observations:

Factors Observations
No. of Workers One worker for 5 machines.
Time taken for each process This is a continuous process.
Wastage 1% wastage is generated from this stage.

18
 The output on this stage is the roving and
Quantity of Output its quality of output is dependent upon the
twists per inch.
From roving to ring frame, the cones are
Material Handling moved automatically by a conveyor system
provided by neuenhauser.
Table: General Observations on Speed Frame

2.1.7. Compact Ring Spinning

In ring spinning, the roving is the first attenuated by using drawing rollers, then spun
and wound around a rotating spindle which in turn imparts twist to the yarn with the
help of ring and traveler.

i. Objectivess of ring spinning frame:

• To draft the roving fed to the ring frame.

• To impact the strength to the fib re strand bytwisting.
• To wind up the resulting yarn on to bobbin.
• To build up the yarn on to bobbin in form of a suitable for storage, transportation
and processing.

ii. Main operations of ring frame

• Creeling: By this process the roving is introduced to the draft zone from roving
bobbin.
• Drafting: To reduce the weight per unit length by drafting i.e., passing the
roving through three or four pair of roller of different speed.
• Twisting: To impart twist to the yarn by ring and traveler to increase the strength
of the yarn.

19
 • Winding: To wound the yarn on the ring bobbin in a particular manner so that
it can be used in the next machine easily.
• Building: By this process the yarn is wound in full length of the bobbin in such
a form which will facilitate handling, transfer and feeding to winding.
• Doffing: Doffing is to replace an empty bobbin at the place of fully wound
bobbin.

iii. Specifications of Ring Frame

Features Obsercations
No. of Ring Frames 104
Company Name LMW
Model No LR 9/AXL
Count 60S NORMAL
TM/TPM 4/1311
Drafting 4 OVER 4
No. of Spindles RHS= 816

LHS=816
TPM 1916
Table: Specifications of Ring Frame

iv. Some Observations:

Factors Observations
No. of Workers Three workers for each machine.
This is a continuous process as the roving
Time taken for each process is automatically fed via the automated
conveyor system.
Wastage 5% wastage is generated from this stage.
The output on this stage is the final yarn
that is to be of a specific type. Different
parameters considered on this stage-

a. Yarn count
b. TPI
Quantity of Output c. Evenness of yarn
d. Strength
e. Imperfections

They perform various tests on

the yarn to check:

a. Tensile strength

20
 b. Appearance
c. Roving wrapping
d. Twist test
e. Breaking point

From roving to ring frame, the bobbins are

Material Handling moved automatically by a conveyor system
provided by neuenhauser.
Table: General Observations on Ring Frame

There is another machine attached with the conveyor system that is provided for
emptying the left-over roving from the bobbins after they are unwound at the ring
frame so that they can be disposed.

Autoconer-This is a machine that winds the yarn on the cone. It automatically takes
the bobbins from the ring frame and winds it on the cone also transporting the cone
directly to the auto-packing zone. The name of the machine is Autoconer 6 and X5.
The system used for conveying cones to auto-packing system is neuenhauser HR-2.

Auto-packing-This is a separate zone that receives the winded cones from the
autoconer via passage created from one building to another and uses robotic arms to
stack the cones and finally pack them in cellophane and are further transported for
weaving or exporting.

21
 Chapter 3

Weaving
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or
threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

Cloth is usually woven on a loom a device that holds the warp threads in place while
filling threads are woven through them.

The weaving process consists of five basic operations, shedding, picking, beating-up,
left off and take up.

• Shedding: Separating the warp yarns into two

layers by lifting and lowering the shafts, to form
a tunnel known as the ‘shed’.

• Picking or Filling: Passing the weft yarn (pick)

across the warp threads through the shed.

• Beating-up: Pushing the newly inserted weft

yarn back into the fell using the reed.

• Let off: The warp yarns are unwound from the warp beam during the above
three processes.
• Take up: The woven fabric is wound on the cloth beam during the above three
processes.

Bed sheets need lustier, aesthetics, smoothness and soft feel. In order to achieve that,
the weaving department takes the following efforts:

22
 1. Count Yarn – High as it gives smoothness and soft feel
2. EPI x PPI – Very high as it provides abrasion resistance

As the above mentioned factors increase, the price of the end product also increases.

Bed Sheet Weaving 114 is bifurcated as below:

BS WVG 114 is the name given to Bed Sheet Weaving department, unit number 114.
The unit is divided into two parts.

BS WVG 114

Preparatory Loomshed

Auto
Warping Sizing Looms
Drawing

Figure: Bifurcation of BS WVG 114

3.1. Preparatory
This section of the unit, prepares the warped yarns to gain extra strength as the
warped yarns need to under go a lot of stress and strain. This section basically has
three major activities that are performed upon the yarns:

3.1.1. Warping: This is a process that coverts the cones to beam. The number of
beam to be warped depends on the order received from the buyer. The
information is passed from the PPC i.e. production planning and control
department.

23
 Pictures: Warping

No. of Machines 6-benninger, 2- Karl Mayer

Speed 1200 mt/min
Average Speed 600 rpm
Creel Type V- creel
Pressure 250 dAn
Flange diameter 1250 mm
Beam width 2400mm
Barrel Diameter 415 mm
Space between two dents 4mm
Warp breakage/ 10 million meter 2.87
RH% & temp. 75% , 30⁰C
Efficiency 35-40%
Warp stop motion Electrical
Table: Machine Specifications (Warping)

Creel designation Ben-creel-V

Creel capacity 1224
Max. height 2695mm
Max. width 13790mm
Air pressure 6-8 bar
Reaction time of stop motion 5/100 sec
Production 30 lacs m/day
Table: Creel Specification

The unit uses multiple creels to form one warp of 24000 yarn threads

3.1.2. Sizing: Sizing is used for the following objectives:

i. To reduce the hairiness of warp yarns
ii. To increase stregth of warp yarns
iii. To improve weavability of warp yarns
24
iv. To increase tensile and breaking strength of warp yarns
v. To reduce static formation of synthetic and blended yarn

Zones of Sizing:

CREEL ZONE

SIZE BOX 1 & 2

SPLITTING ZONE

WINDING ZONE

25
 Pictures: Sizing

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS (Benninger)

No. of machines 3
Creel Capacity 24-28
Creel type Magazine Creel
No. of drying cylinder 12
Drying temp. 120-140⁰C
Speed ̴50-70 m/min
Average Production/ day 18000-20000 m

No. of sow boxes 2

Temperature of size box 90⁰C

Size pickup 9-11%

Efficiency 40-45%

Machine specifications ( Karl Mayer )

No. of machine 1
Creel capacity 28
Creel type Magazine creel
No. of drying cylinder 14
Drying temp. 120-140⁰C
Max.machine speed 50-70 mt/min
No. of sow boxes 2
Size box temp. 88-90⁰C
Efficiency 40-45%
Table: Machine Specifications (Sizing)

vi. Size Ingredients:

26
 Water – 800 lit

Scot 36 SGS- Acrylic binder

Scot 26- Modified starch

Scot 261- Modified starch

Supernol SP- Binder

Elvanol T66- PVA binder

Flexi Soft- Softener

Recipe may vary from cloth to cloth. The ratio also changes accordingly. Ratio is
confidential.

The recipe is stored in two cookers; they are stored in the storage area and then passed
via pipes to the size box for further processing.

Once a process is completed, the cookers are cleaned and prepared for the next recipe.

3.1.3. Auto Drawing-In: A process of threading the warp threads into the heald eye of the
heald shaftaccording to the design. The warp threads are passed through the drop
wires into the heald eye of the heald shaft and then into the dents of the reed.

Pictures: Auto Drawing-in

Model DELTA 110

Drawing-in speed 140 ends/min
Reed density 500 teeth/dm
Maximum no.of frames 20
Drawing in element Hook
27
Table: Machine Specification (Auto Drawing-In)

28
3.2. Loomshed:
Industrial revolution switched weaving from hand to machine. John Kay
invented the flying shuttle in 1733 and enabled weaving of winder fabric as
well as faster

Looms
(602-Airjet)

Tsudakoma Picanol
(462) (140)

ZAX-9100 ZAX-9200 SUMMUM

ZAX-N (72)
(262) (128) (140)

Jacquard
CAM (48) Dobby (16) Dobby (80) CAM (182) CAM (128)
(8)

Figure: Loom Bifurcation

Model No. of M/C Width Max Speed

TSUKDAKOMA 72 340 cms 560 rpm
(ZAX-N)
TSUDAKOMA 262 280 cms 580 rpm
(ZAX-9100)
TSUDAKOMA 128 340 cms 700 rpm
(ZAX-9200)
PICANOL 140 289, 340, 360 cms 720, 650, 625 rpm
Total Looms 602 Looms
Table: Machine Major Specifications
29
M/C Type CAM Type Shafts
ZAX-N CAM 1661 6 Shafts
ZAX-N CAM 1761 10 Shafts
ZAX-9100 CAM 1661 6 Shafts
ZAX-9100 CAM 1761 10 Shafts
ZAX-9200 CAM 1781 10 Shafts
SUMMUM CAM 1781 11 Shafts
MJ – 4 – 4480 hooks x 4 (repetition)
MJ – 6 – 5660 hooks x 4 (repetition)
Table: CAM-Dobby Specification

Table: Path of Warp Yarns

Table: Path of Weft Yarns

30
 3.2.1. Signals in the loom
• Red = manual stop
• Orange + red = warp stop
• Blue + red = weft stop (filling)
• Red + green = counter stop (required length of fabric woven)
• Red + blue blink = package stop (sensor)
• Green blink = warning before 1o mins (doffer call)
• Red blink = information to foreman
• Blue blinking = feelers sensors off
• Orange blinking =warp sensors off
3.2.2. Key Performance Index of Welspun as on 20th December 2018
Section Process Unit Amount
Preparatory Warping Tons/day 29
Sizing Lac mtr/day 1.5
Auto-Drawing Lac end/day 2.1
Beam/day 10
Loomshed Production Lac mtr/day 1.45
EFF Percentage 87.00
PPI Number 77.21
RPM Number 590
Waste Percentage 2
Fabric Rejection at Percentage 0.07
grey in inspection
Table: KPI

Consumption of raw material input is up to 50 Tons a day with only 2% wastage

producing 70 lakhs of fabric every day.

They use American Four Point system for fabric inspection which go as per the
following rules:

Defect Size Penalty Points

Defects</= 3cm 1
3cm < Defects </= 6cm 2
6cm < Defects </= 9cm 3
Defects > 9cm 4
Table: Points for defects sizes

The inspection can be done either horizontally or vertically. Defects are broadly
categorised as follows:

31
 Types of Defects
Weaver Related Machine Related
•Double Ends •Uneven Yarn -> Pressure Variation causes
•Wrong Drawing loose pick
•Wrong Denting •Missing End -> In case of breakage of threads
•Double Pick •H1 & H2 Sensor didn't work -> casues broken
•Short Pick pick
•Bent Pick
•Snarts ->When two threads picked have
different tensions

Table: Types of Defects

32
 Chapter 4

Processing
The processing department is bifurcated into 2 parts i.e.:

Processing

Dyeing and
Finishing
Printing

Processing Sequence

SINGEING

DESIZING

DESIZE WASHING

SCOURING (PTR)

BLEACHING

MERCERIZING

DYEING/PRINTING

33
 FINISHING

4.1. Singeing CUM De-sizing

4.1.1. Objective of Singeing:

Singeing refers to the burning-off of protruding fibers which comes out from yarn
and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment.

4.1.2. Objective of De-sizing:

De-sizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven
fabrics.

4.1.3. Singeing Machines

MANUFACTURER OSTHOFF SANDO

M/C Speed 80 – 100 m/min 60 – 80 m/min
No. Of Burners 2 4
Singeing Positions 3
Burner Distance 12 mm 30 mm
De-sizing Temperature 55 to 70°C 55 to 70°C
Dwell Time 6 – 14 hrs 14 hrs
Flame Intensity 16 – 18 mba
Flame height 6”
Fabric Side Both
Pickup 75 – 85%
Production 35000 mt/shift
Table: Machine Specifications of OSTHOFF(Germany) and SANDO(Japan)

4.1.4. De-sizing

De-sizing is the process of removal of size material applied on warp threads of a fabric
to facilitate the process of weaving. Size forms a stiff, hard and smooth coating on warp
yarns to enable them to withstand the cyclic tensions during weaving and reduce
breakage.

Desizing recipe For enzymatic bio-polishing

•CAUSTIC - 20g/l •BACTASOL PHC(ENZYME) -2g/l

•PEROXIDE - 20g/l •HOSTAPOL DTC(wetting agent ) - 3g/l
•HOSTAPOL IRZ(wetting agent ) - 2g/l •SIRIX ANTOX (sequestering agent) -2g/l
•SIRIX ANTOX (sequestering agent)-1g/l •IMEROL TWI(W.A) -1g/l
•IMEROL TWI(W.A) -2g/l •CELLUSOFT CR(BIOPOLISHING AGENT)-
•STABILIZER FCB - 3 g/l 4g/l

4.1.5. Desize Washer

34
Maker Max Speed Actual Speed
Benninger 125 mt/ min 80 mt/ min
Process sequence of OSTHOFF & SANDO – PTR (Pretreatment Range)

J-Scray

Brushing Roller

Singeing Unit

COC / ENZYMATIC DE-SIZING / BIOPOLISHING

Batching

Bio-polished Material

De-sizing

Steaming (99°C)

Washing

Scouring/Bleaching

Steamer

Washing

Neutralizing process

Vertical Drying (150°C)

RFD
35
4.2. Dyeing & Printing

Scouring & Bleaching (PTR)

4.2.1. Scouring: applies to the removal of impurities such as oils, was, gums, soluble
impurities and sold dirt commonly found in textile material and produce a hydrophilic
and clean cloth.
4.2.2. Bleaching: Includes treatment with hydrogen peroxide to improve lusture ,color
fastness and absorbency.

➢ Best suitable for cellulosic and protein fiber.

➢ Does not lose strength on storage.

Bleaching Machines
Bleaching Recipe
available at Welspun
• Machine brand- • Hydrogen Peroxide
Benninger • Caustic soda
• Speed: 100-120 m/min • Stabilizer
• No of m/c: 3 • Wetting agent
• No. of chambers: 17 • Sequestering agent

➢ Stable at PH4.2.3. Material Flow

1 • PTR

2 • Pre wash

3 • Padding of scouring and bleaching liquor

4 • Steaming

5 • Washing

6 • Neutralization

7 • Cold wash

8 • Drying (V.D.R.)

9 • Cooling

10 • Batching

36
4.2.4. Mercerization
Mercerization is a process of impregnating the textile material with a concentrated
solution of cold NaOH, keeping it in contact with this cold solution for a given time
with or without tension, and subsequently rinsing it.

i. Objective of mercerisation:
• To improve lustre
• Increased ability to absorb dye
• Improve hand
• Improve dimensional stability
• Improve smoothness

Machine Parameters
Make Benninger
No. Of Machine 3
Max Speed 100 mt/min
Actual Speed 70 – 80 mt/min
NaOH Concentration 260Be
Temp. Of Hot Water 90 – 950C
Acetic Acid 4 – 5 pH

4.2.5. Process Sequence

1. Pre-wetting
2. First caustic tank
3. Second caustic tank
4. Timing chamber( 28 sec)
5. Stretching unit
6. Stabilizer zone
7. Hot wash
8. Neutralization
9. Hot wash
10. Drying (v.d.r.)
11. Cooling cylinder
12. Batch

4.3. Dyeing
Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibres, yarns,
and fabrics with the objective of achieving colour with desired fastness.

In welspun, Dyeing section is incorporated within the processing department. The

dyeing of bed sheets is done in three types, which are as follows:
37
 Dyeing

PDTPS (Pad
PDPS (Pad Dry CPB (Cold Pad
Dry thermocyl
Pad Steam) Batching)
Pad Steam)
Figure: Types of Dyeing

4.3.1. CPB (COLD-PAD BATCH)

COLD PAD BATCH dyeing is a more environmentally sound and higher quality
dyeing method for woven and knitted cotton/viscose fibres. The process
removes salt from the effluent, reduces the use of water, energy, reduces the
volume of effluent and occupies less space on the production floor. Benefits of
CPB dyeing can be summarized as follows;

• Relatively low cost of equipment

• Less surface area
• Low amount of effluent
• No salt residue in effluent water
• Conventional exhaust dyeing system emits up to 1 kg salt per kg of fabric
• Low steam consumption
• 50 percent less
• Low electricity requirement
• 30 - 40 % less
• Improved fabric quality
• Reduced labor cost.

Manufacturer Speed Rotation Time

For dark shades – 24 hrs
Benninger 30 – 70 m/min For light shades – 12 hrs
Table: CPB Machine Basic Specifications

4.3.2. PAD Drying

Manufacturer Number of Speed Chamber Temp

Machine

38
 1st Chamber –
120˚C

2nd Chamber –
150˚C

For Cotton:
MONFORTS 3 50 – 70 mts/min
3rd Chamber –
120˚C

4th Chamber –
140˚C

5th Chamber –
150˚C
Table: PAD Dry Machine Basic Specifications

Ingredient Amount
Glaubersalt 200 – 250 GPL
Caustic Soda 12 – 15 GPL
Resist Salt (MOA) 3 GPL
Soda Ash 20 GPL
Roof Steam Temp. 117±30 C
Main Steam Temp. 1000 C
Tension Control 300 – 500 N
Table: Development Tank of Pad Steam

4.4. Printing
Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or
designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to
resist washing and friction.

4.4.1. Recipe

• Reactive Paste
• Reactive dye powder
• Soda ash
• Resist salt
• Sodium bicarbonate
• Urea
• RGGR

4.4.2. Pigment paste

• Binder

39
• Softener
• Antifoam TC
• Fixing agent

Types of printing done in Welspun:

Printing
Technologies

Digital Rotory
Printing Prinitng

4.4.3. Digital Printing

Digital textile printing is described as any ink jet based method of printing colorants
onto fabric. Most notably, digital textile printing is referred to when identifying either
printing smaller designs onto garments (T-shirts, dresses, promotional wear; abbreviated
as DTG, which stands for Direct to Garment) and printing larger designs onto large
format rolls of textile. The latter is a growing trend in visual communication, where
advertisement and corporate branding is printed onto polyester media. Examples
are: flags, banners, signs, retail graphics.

Image: Renoir 16 head Digital Printing Machine

4.4.4. Stork or Rotary Printing

Rotary Screen Printing machines have evolved from basic hand printing procedures.
The rotary screen printing machine is fast, but limited to the designs it can print and
commercially very economical way of printing. The print finish quality of rotary
printing is not to the same standard as modern-day discharge printing machines. Screens
40
have to be cut and made to the design we require and each colour way has to be put on
an individual screen.

Image: Rotary Printing

The use of these technologies depends upon the type of ink that has to be used. In case
of pigment ink, rotary machine is used and in case of reactive ink, digital ink is used.

Rotary Printing Drying Ageing Curing Finish

Printing
Digital Printing Ageing Washing Finishing
Printing
Figure: Process Flow of Printing

4.4.5. Printing machine

Stork Printing Machine (Rotary
Digital Printing Machine
Printing)
No. Of Machines 1 No. Of Machines 2
Name of the Name of the Reggiani- 16 and
Machine Machine 32 heads
40 – 60 m/min 100 mts/hr &
(Pigment) Heads: 16
Max No. Of
Speed
Screens
20 – 35 ,/min 200 mts/hr &
(Reactive) Heads: 32
Magnet Pressure 16 Head Width 4.25 inch
Temperature 0 – 100 kg/cm
No. Of Colour 8
Setting square
160oC – 200oC
(Pigment)
Dryer 90˚C – 95˚C
100oC – 125oC
Table: Printing Machines Specifications

41
42
 Chapter 5
Finishing Section
Any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance,
or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing.

There are two types of finishing performed on the fabric:

Types of
Finishes

Mechanical Chemical

Chemical
Stentering Sanforizing Calendering Airo Finish Pitch Finish Applications-
Micro Softner,
Micro/ Macro
Silicon Base
Non-Ionic

5.1. Stenter

The main function of the stenter is to stretch the fabric widthwise and to recover the
uniform width. It also used for heat setting and for applying finishing chemicals (resin).

Name of Machines No. of Machines Speed Trough Finishes

Temperature Applied
Monfortsfong’s (10
2 Machines Resin Finish:
Chamber)
Temperature-
MonfortsMontex
1 Machines 130˚ C – 140˚ C
(10 chambers) 40 – 100 Room
MonfortsMontex(8 m/min Temperature
1 Machines Normal Finish:
chambers)
Temperature-
Motex (10
1 Machines 150˚ C
chambers)
Table: Stentering Machines

5.2. Sanforiser

It is a method of stretching, shrinking and fixing the woven cloth in both length and
width before cutting and producing, to reduce the shrinkage which would otherwise
occur after washing.
43
 Sanforising Machines
No. Of Machines 3
Maker MonfortsMontex
Speed 40 – 70 m/min
Rubber Temp 90 – 110
Felt Temp 130 – 140
Max Shrinkage 1–3
Production 25000 – 30000
Defects Felt Marks, Rubber Marks
Table: Sanforising Machine Details

5.3. Calendering

It is a finishing process used on fabric employed pressing, usually to smooth, coat, or

thin a material. With textiles, fabric is passed under rollers at high temperatures and
pressures.

Calendering Machines
No. Of Machines 2
Maker Kusters (Benninger)
Speed 70 m/min
Temperature 55
Rollers Cotton Roll Pressure: 150

Steel Roll Pressure: 50

Fibre Roll Pressure: 100

Sensor Metal Detector
Line Force Top 100 N/m
Line Force Rear 150 N/m
Table: Calendering Machine Details

44