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    How To Sew A Jacket - Tips For Tackling Sleeves

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    How To Sew A Jacket - Tips For Tackling Sleeves

    Uploaded by

    LM_S_S
    343 views21 pages

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    How to Sew a Jacket_ Tips for Tackling Sleeves

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    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
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    343 views21 pages

    How To Sew A Jacket - Tips For Tackling Sleeves

    Uploaded by

    LM_S_S

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
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    The key takeaways are tips for sewing flawless jacket sleeves such as learning about two-piece sleeves, basting sleeves, pressing sleeves, trimming seams, adding sleeve headers and shoulder pads.

    The tips for sewing flawless jacket sleeves are to learn about two-piece sleeves, baste sleeves, press sleeves after sewing them in, trim some of the seam allowance, add a sleeve header and consider adding small shoulder pads.

    The trick to sewing two-piece sleeves is that they have built-in ease in the elbow area. The upper sleeve is longer than the undersleeve to provide a natural curve. They also have markings like notches and dots to indicate the front and back and help join the upper and undersleeve pieces.

    6 Tips for Sewing Flawless Jacket Sleeves

    By Beth Galvin
    December 13, 2019 10:15 PM
    When you set out to sew the perfect jacket or coat, you may not immediately think
    about the sleeves. (You're probably envisioning a poppin' collar or those beautiful
    lapels and buttons, which is fair!) But sleeves are an obviously critical component of
    your design. They need to fit, taper and drape perfectly, as a properly sewn sleeve
    can be the difference between a coat that looks high-end and a coat that screams
    homemade.

    Luckily, with these tips you can sew sleeves that will look 100 percent fabulous.

    1. Learn the Trick to the Two-Piece Sleeve


    Two-piece sleeves have built-in ease in the elbow area — the upper sleeve is a bit
    longer than the undersleeve — that gives a natural curve to your finished sleeve.
    But they also have markings that can be confusing. Remember that, like all pattern
    pieces, a double notch indicates the back of the sleeve while a single notch
    indicates the front.

    You may also see two sets of dots on your two-piece sleeve pattern. The large dots
    (circled in red, above) are the ease dots; they correspond to dots on the jacket front
    and back pattern pieces. The small dots (circled in blue, above) only appear on the
    sleeve pieces and help join the upper sleeve and undersleeve.

    2. Actually Baste Your Sleeves


    Let's be real: sometimes it feels like basting only slows down your sewing. But this
    extra step is totally worth it, and may actually save you time in the end. Simply pin
    your sleeve in, then baste using a very long stitch. Doing so allows you to remove all
    the pins, so you can see if the sleeve looks smooth with no ripples or tucks.

    If you see any sections with visible gathers, simply remove the stitches and baste
    again. You can then machine stitch with ease, as there are no pins to remove as you
    go. And because jacket sleeves need to withstand a lot of wear and tear, it's a good
    idea to add a second row of stitching just ⅛" inside the original stitching to prevent
    your seams from popping.

    3. Don't Skip the Press


    Once your sleeve is sewn in, press all the way around the seam allowance using just
    the tip of the iron. This smooths out the sleeve cap you just eased into the garment,
    and helps maintain that nice curve over the shoulder.
    4. Always Trim (Some of) the Seam
    Trim the seam allowance to ¼" under the arm, about 2-3" on either side of the side
    seam. This will give you more movement and provide extra comfort. Leave the rest
    of the seam allowance as is — it functions to support the sleeve cap.

    5. Sew in a Sleeve Header

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    A sleeve header should be placed between the seam allowance and sleeve cap. It
    SEARCH IN SHOP
    helps keep the cap shape and prevents the seam allowance from showing through
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    on the outside of the garment. You can purchase sleeve heads or make your own
     patter mask
    by cutting bias strips of lambswool or flannel.
     Suzy Furrer
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    6. Consider a Shoulder Pad
    The '80s gave shoulder pads a bad wrap, but the truth is they totally belong in your
    tailored jacket. A very thin shoulder pad can help fill out the hollow in the upper
    chest, and allow the jacket front and back to hang smoothly without adding any
    bulk. Before you say no way, baste in some small shoulder pads and see how your
    jacket looks. You may be surprised at how much you like it.

    Good to Know
    If your pattern calls for a shoulder pad, include one. Otherwise, you'll have
    to alter both the jacket front and back pieces and adjust the sleeve cap so it
    fits correctly.

    SEW JACKETS BEGINNER CLOTHING

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