Novice Nook: Spend Time On The Move Chosen
Novice Nook: Spend Time On The Move Chosen
Novice Nook: Spend Time On The Move Chosen
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Once you make your move, your opponent should (and good players will)
focus all of their attention on how to beat it, or at least how to best play
against it. For example, if you spend fifteen minutes and then make a move,
and your opponent also spends fifteen minutes, you should have ensured
during your reflection time that your opponent cannot easily find a way to
defeat your move. To do so requires that you spend at least a reasonable
portion of your fifteen minutes asking, "If I make this move, will my
opponent be able to just win with a tactic?" In other words, "Is there any
forcing move – a check, capture, or threat – that he can make in reply that I
can't meet next move?"
Obviously, the time limit and time remaining on your clock have a lot to do
with how well you can do this. For players who play too fast this is not a
problem – they should always take more time to play Real Chess and make
sure their analysis is correct. But for players that play correctly – or too
slowly – the amount of checking you can do is greatly limited by time. In a
thirty minute game it may be impossible to check the analysis and evaluation
to any satisfaction, while in a 40/2 game it is usually possible.
In slow games, when you have an analytical position spend at least fifteen
percent of your time on your chosen move figuring out what is likely to
happen after you play it.
For the purposes of this guideline, assume an analytical position is one where
there are non-trivial forcing sequences (checks, captures, and threats) to
calculate. The opposite of an analytical position is a one where you make your
decision completely on judgment and principle, such as early in the opening
before the opposing forces are clashing.
For example, suppose you are in an analytical position, take five minutes for
thought and decide to play move A. You should have spent at least forty-five
seconds of those five minutes seeing what might happen after move A. If you
only spent thirty seconds thus far, another fifteen seconds or more would
probably be helpful.
The key words are "happen after" – I am not referring to time spent
evaluating the position caused by move A – I am talking about analyzing
what is likely to happen – analysis of what you could do about your
opponent's most dangerous replies: checks, captures, and threats.
White to play
In this position, like many others, the opponent has threats (1…Qxb2, but
even grandmasters analyzing this position in de Groot's seminal work Thought
and Choice in Chess usually missed the unusual reply 2.Nc4!), but the player
on the move also has possibilities. For example, White has possibilities to
force favorable capturing sequences starting with 1.Nxc6, 1.Nxd5, 1.Bxd5, or
possibly 1.Bxf6.
Many intermediate players decide there is no "aggressive" play and settle for
defending the "threat." The only problem is that once they settle on a
defensive move like 1.b4 or 1.Rc2, they automatically assume it is safe and,
unlike their aggressive candidates, don't analyze it thoroughly to make sure
the defensive move is truly safe. In many, if not most, cases in de Groot A, a
defensive move is not that safe! For example, after 1.Rc2? Black can play 1…
Nxc3 and no one has figured out that the only way White can avoid losing
material is 2.Nxc6!, when Black is better but disaster has been averted; e.g., 2.
Qxc3? Ne4 wins a piece. Similar dangerous sequences must be checked after
1.b4 Nxc3!, but most students don't. They often spend a lot of time trying to
win material with a move such as 1.Nxd5 – hoping to get Black to abandon
his defense of the d7-square and allow a fork – but when that fails, they
quickly "settle" for a dangerous move like 1.b4 or 1.Rc2.
Black to play
In this position, Black was not sure what to do and spent several minutes
trying to find a good plan. Finally he settled on 1…Qc5 without really
checking if White could do something dangerous. White simply responded 2.
b4, putting the question to the queen; even better was 2.Qb3, with a double
attack on f7 and b7. Black incorrectly assumed that taking back his move with
2…Qe7 or "even worse" 2…Qf8 was not logical, so he fairly quickly decided
the queen must be better off of the queenside with 2…Qb6. Of course, his
logic was not correct, as the queen is rather awkward on b6 – this is not the
kind of move you should quickly "settle on" without sensing some danger.
White replied 3.Bb3, clearly vacating c4 for a piece – in this case the knight –
with a future double attack on b6 and e5. Now Black recognized the threat
and again slowed down, but it was too late. After 3…Re7 4.Nc4, he was
reduced to the desperate 4…Bf5, and after 5.Rxd8+ Nxd8 6.Qxf5! gxf5 7.
Nxb6 cxb6 8.Bxe5, he lost a pawn and his position was a wreck, although
later his opponent made a couple of weak moves and Black won anyway!
White to play
In this dynamic position, I had saved my time and now began to use it in gobs
analyzing the discovered attack 23.Bd6, hitting the rook and the b-pawn. It
seemed clear to me that this move was the one I should play – until I tried to
back it up by analysis. Unfortunately, I could not see how 23.Bd6 worked
after 23…f5 24.Nxe5 Rxc1+ 25.Rxc1 Qe8, when 26.Bxb8 could be met by
26…Qxb8 and both knights are hanging. Apparently I also thought that 23…
Bxc4 24.dxc4 f5 25.Bxb8 fxe5 might trap my bishop. So after spending an
inordinate amount of time and failing to make this move work, I settled for
the more safe-looking 23.Ned6. Regrettably, this knight move is a complete
waste of time, as Matt simply moved his attacked rook with 23…Rd8 and I
could find nothing better than to admit my error and play the sorry retreat 24.
Ne4. The game remained inordinately complicated until the end, when in
mutual time trouble we agreed to a draw, which secured me the second place
silver bowl.
After the game Matt asked me why I did not play 23.Bd6, which he also
thought was clearly best, and I showed him my concerns. He admitted that he
had not seen those ideas either and could not find an answer. After I got
home, I gave the game to the computer and it indeed verified that Matt and
my intuitions were correct and that 23.Bd6 was the best move. It showed I
was easily winning in my "problem" line with 23…f5 24.Nxe5 Rxc1+ 25.
Rxc1 Qe8 26.Ng5!, instead of 26.Bxb8. And 23…Bxc4 24.dxc4 f5 25.Bxb8
fxe5 can also be met by the hard-to-see 26.Qd1!. I did not feel too bad about
missing these lines, as they were very difficult to visualize and I could not
have possibly spent more time, not knowing that they were there. At G/75 one
can only analyze so much before diminishing returns sets in.
This "settling" error occurs frequently after a player takes time to see if a
sacrifice will be successful, but then concludes that it apparently fails. At that
point the player often settles for a quick "safe" move without fully checking to
see if it is indeed safe. I think this error has happened to most of my students
at one point or another. Let's make up a silly but, unfortunately, common
example that typifies what happens:
White to play
White decides to check out the classical bishop sacrifice 1.Bxh7+, not aware
that it rarely works with a queen-bishop battery on d8-e7 to double guard g5;
often just a bishop on e7 too will suffice. Suppose after a while he sees that
lines like 1.Bxh7+ Kxh7 2.Ng5+ Bxg5 3.Qh5+ fail to 3…Bh6 when Black is
ahead two pieces. So after some thought White rejects this analytical line and
decides to just play a developing move, quickly playing 1.Qe2??
Unfortunately, although Black had no serious threats before this move, 1.
Qe2?? takes away the bishop's only escape square and Black can win a piece
for two pawns by trapping the bishop with 1…c4. Another case where the
"safe" move was not safe!
The solution to this "settling" problem is not difficult to find: no matter what
your thought process was before you began to finalize a move that you intend
to play, you should focus at least a minimal amount of time just on the safety
of the final move. In certain circumstances, like completely innocuous
positions early in the opening, this may not be necessary. In other
circumstances, particularly severe time trouble, it may not be possible.
However, in the most cases it is not only helpful, but possibly necessary, to
spend this minimal time to avoid problems.
Let's lay out a typical theoretical time map. Suppose in a slow game you have
a position with candidate moves A, B, C, and D. You spend the following
amounts of time looking at each candidate:
● A: thirty seconds
● B: ninety seconds
● C: three minutes
● D: sixty seconds
At the conclusion of the six minutes, you decide that move B is your best bet.
At this point it makes sense to perform a quick re-visit of B to make sure it is
really safe – and best – for the reasons previously thought. This revisiting
would be even more important if you had chosen a move that had less time
devoted to it than B. For example, if you had chosen move A, then additional
time is more likely to be helpful. Following the guideline of using fifteen
percent on the move actually played and, assuming the entire move will take
about seven minutes, at least sixty seconds (15% x 420) should be devoted to
the final move. Since you had previously only taken thirty seconds on A, here
an additional thirty seconds checking out your opponent's possible forcing
replies to A would probably be helpful. You don't need to know the exact
times you spent on each move – no one does – but you should have a feel on
whether you have given the move you are going to play adequate treatment.
We can restate the final guideline as: No matter how much time you have
spent thinking about a position, try to devote a reasonable amount of time to
the consequences of the move you are intending to play.
If this final check reveals that the move you are going to play is no longer best
for any reason, you may be back to square one and your remaining thinking
time will be diminished, but you will have avoided immediate disaster. When
you reject a move at the last second, it is very tempting to make the same
mistake you just avoided and quickly settle on another under-analyzed move!
However, unless you are in time trouble, follow the same principle and re-
check the new move as well.
For those readers who play too fast, following all the advice above should
slow you down! For those who play too slowly, my advice remains the same:
spend less time (for many slow-playing readers, much less time) thinking
about judgmental moves and leave sufficient time for analytical moves,
especially in critical situations.
Question I lost two out of three games the other day to 1650 players and won
against a 1590. That cost me twenty-four rating points, which didn't make me
flinch. I figured if I could care less about rating, then I would enjoy the game
more, as long as I'm trying to figure out what mistakes were made and how to
avoid them in the future.
I realize I was tired, but even so my games were illogical and poorly played. I
miscalculated and went a pawn down against [Player A], which will certainly
happen from time to time. The biggest mistakes were 1) helping him get a
kingside majority; 2) missing a good chance at a draw after he made a poor
move; and 3) allowing him to open another file while having complete control
over the only open file.
Against [Player B], I got myself into severe time trouble. Going over the
game, I realized I had spent so much time analyzing whether a piece sacrifice
(bishop for two pawns) will work. When faced with such positions, I should
either 1) quickly determine the sacrifice doesn't work and move on to
something else or 2) try it if positional pluses seem to be there even if I can't
calculate it out all the way.
If you can only play when you are not tired, that is great, but sometimes not
too practical, given club meeting times, family and work schedule, etc. And
finally, good attitude about your rating.
Question Here's a picture. The right hand side of the room is full; the left side
is empty. The right side is the A tournament, which is mostly players 2000+,
plus the top ten boards of the B tournament. The left side is the B tournament.
Both sides played with the same time controls and started at the same time.
Answer Thanks! There is no doubt that proper time management is a big part
of becoming a good chess player. I think a similar picture could be taken at
any serious event midway through the time control, assuming players of all
levels are playing in the same area.
I would like a recommendation for a book that isn't so much a "Move and
win," but more like "Move and avoid losing."
Answer If kids are making moves that are not safe (as they always do), then
you need, along with familiarity with basic tactics, a thought process that
helps them to consistently ask if their candidate moves are safe each move (a
la my NN Is it Safe?). From your question, I would bet this is really what you
need.
On the other hand, if you want more advanced kids to practice defensive
tactics (where you have to find a way not to lose material, say, while your
opponent is attempting a tactic), then off the top of my head I know of two
minor sources: One is my book Back to Basics: Tactics, which has a chapter
on Defensive Tactics (with problems) and the other is the fantastic
intermediate level book Winning Chess Exercises for Kids, which is not for
kids at all, but on each page the seventh problem is a defensive problem.
Answer I got asked this question about ten years ago by a passenger in my car
and I laughed and replied "If I can't answer that one, I am out of a job!"
There are many good answers. The most important is that a good chess coach
doesn't just point out tactical mistakes – that's a very small part of his job. The
list of things he should do is long, but basically he is your guide to getting
better: helping set homework, who and how to play (such as which section in
the World Open would maximize your learning or whether joining a local
club is pivotal), what your mistakes and misconceptions are and how to
minimize repeating them in the future, etc.
But much more involved are good coaches who look at your thought process
and time management. Eighty percent of my students either play too fast or
too slow. Even a good instructor who looks just at your game scores by mail
can't tell that unless your games are time-stamped.
No computer can say "You are trying to approach this position the wrong
way" or "You played that move way too fast for the time control and position"
or "whenever you get into a position that has this pawn structure, look for
your pieces to go here" and many other things that computers can't (yet)
possibly do. They can tell you that you made a tactical mistake, but they can't
pinpoint if it was because you lack visualization, tactical vision, board vision,
played too fast, did not look for all your opponent's forcing moves, or any
other reason that this particular tactic was allowed, and how to minimize this
falling into this tactic.
There's a lot more I could say, but I think you get the idea. See also my
Novice Nook Finding a Good Instructor.
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