USING SHOP TOOLS

After studying this material, you should be able to:

 Describe the four types of basic hand tools used in the automotive shop, and give two
examples at each.
 Explain the difference between a torque wrench and a torque-angle gauge, and
demonstrate their use.
 Show how to remove a broken bolt or stud.
 Demonstrate how to select, set up, and use a pressure-screw puller and a slide-
hammer puIler.
 Show how to cut threads on a rod and in a hole using a tap-and-die set.

HAND TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS

Automotive service work requires a great variety of tools. The proper tools properly used
enable you to do a job with safety, speed, and efficiency. You need two main types of
tools in the shop. These are hand tools and power tools.

This chapter covers hand tools. Your hand supplies the energy to use them. They
include striking, turning, gripping, and cutting tools. They also include tube bending and
flaring tools.

Power tools or machine tools use an energy source other than your muscle power.

STRIKING TOOLS

HAMMERS

A hammer is a hand tool used for

striking. The ball-peen hammer is
the one used most in the shop. Grip
the hammer on the end of the
handle. Swing it so the hammer face
strikes the object or surface
squarely. Avoid hitting the object at
an angle. Use rawhide. plastic,
brass, and rubber hammers to strike
easily marred surfaces. A dead-blow
hammer has a hollow head partially
filled with small metal shot. This
reduces rebounding.

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TURNING TOOLS

SCREWDRIVERS

Use the proper screwdriver to drive or

turn screw. Screwdrivers are made in
a variety of sizes, shapes, and
special-purpose designs. The most
common type has single flat blade for
driving screws with slotted heads.
There are also Torx-head and
Phillips-head screw drivers. Always
select a screwdriver of the proper
type and aid for the job. When using a
single-blade screwdriver, the blade
should completely fill the screw slot.
This helps prevent damage to the
screw, head.

WRENCHES

A wrench is a long-handled tool with

fixed or adjustable jaws. You use a
wrench to turn bolts, nuts, and screw.
To work on both USC and metric
fasteners, you need both USC and
metric wrenches. A 3/8- to 1-inch USC
set and a 6- to 19-mm metric set will
handle most jobs. You need these sizes
in sets of open-end, box, and
combination wrenches.

A setof hand tools used by the

automotive technician.

Types of wrenches.

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OPEN-END WRENCH

Open-end wrench usually has the jaw

opening at a 15 degree angle to the
handle. Turn the bolt or nut as far as the
space permits. Then flip the wrench over
for further turning of the fastener. Open-end wrench.

An open-end wrench has a different size on each end, make sure the wrench fits snugly
against the flats. These are the sides of a nut or bolt head. A loose fit may spring the
jaws of the wrench. Springing jaws spread apart would round off the corners of the hex.
This makes use of the proper wrench more difficult.

Never use an open-end wrench to final-tighten a fastener or to free a frozen fastener.

The jaws may spread enough to allow the wrench to slip. Use a box wrench or socket
wrench for these jobs.

BOX WRENCH

The box wrench opening surrounds or

“boxes in” the nut or bolt head. An
advantage is that the box will seldom
slip off. However, you must lift the box
wrench completely off and then place it
back on for each swing. The wrench-
head is thin for use in tight places. The
head usually sets at a 15-degree angle
to the body. This provides hand
clearance for swinging the wrench.
The most common box wrench has 12
notches or “points” in the head. This
allows turning the fastener if the wrench
can swing 30 degrees. A six-point box
wrench holds better on a nut or bolt but
needs a greater swing. The box wrench
has different-size openings on each
end. Set of box wrenches.

COMBINATION WRENCH

The combination wrench has a box on

one end and an open end on the other.
The two ends are usually the same size.
The box end is more convenient for Combination wrench.
breaking loose or final-tightening a nut or
bolt. But you must lift the box completely
free after each swing. The open end is
more likely to slip off. However, once the
fastener is loose, the open end can turn it
faster.
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FLARE-NUT WRENCH

A flare-nut (crowfoot) wrench is a

special type of combination or box-end
wrench. It is used to attach or loosen a
flare nut or tubing nut. The ends of the
flare-nut wrench are thicker than on
other wrenches. This helps prevent
slipping and rounding off the points on
soft-metal tube fittings. The tip point box
end has one of the flats cut off. The
opening is large enough to slip over the Flare-nut wrenches.
tube.
Most flare nuts attach to a coupling nut. Caution: Do not turn the flare nut without holding
Hold the coupling nut while turning the the coupling nut. This will usually twist
flare nut. and break the metal tube.

ADJUSTABLE WRENCH

An adjustable wrench has a movable

jaw that you adjust to fit nuts and bolt
heads of various sizes. Tighten the jaws
against the flats of the nut or bolt before
applying a turning force. Adjustable
wrenches are normally used only when
applying relatively light torque. They are
not always strong as fixed jaw wrenches
and may be damaged as excessive
torque is applied.

How to use an adjustable wrench.

SOCKET WRENCH

Socket wrenches are the

most widely used tool in
the shop. They are like
box wrenches except that
the head or socket is
detachable form the
handle. You assemble the
socket wrench you need
from the socket set in your
toolbox and attach it to the
handle. There are several
kinds of sockets. The 12-
point socket is the most
common. Set of sockets w/ handles, extensions, and universal joints.
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The drive lug is square and always sized in fractions of an inch. Common drive lug sizes
are ¼, 3/8, and ½ inch. The 12-point socket allows you to reach bolt or nut in tight spots.
However, if a bolt head or nut has rounded corners or excessive resistance to turning,
the 12-point socket may slip. Use a six-point socket for these. The eight-point socket is
for turning square heads. They include drain plugs, fill plugs, and pipe plugs. Spark plugs
are removed using a spark-plug socket. This is a six-point deep socket with a rubber
insert. The insert holds the plug to prevent it from falling out of the socket.

Several handles are available for sockets. The ratchet handle has a mechanism that
permits free motion in one direction but lockup in the other. You select the direction for
lockup by moving the reversing lever.

Extensions of various lengths provide access to hard-to-reach bolts or nuts. The

universal joint allows you to turn a nut or bolt while holding the driver at an angle.
Adapters allow you to use a driver with a socket having a different drive size. Also,
various kinds and sizes of screwdrivers, Torx drivers, Allen wrenches, and flare-nut
wrenches will fit the drive and adapters.

TORQUE WRENCHES

A torque wrench is basically a

special handle for a socket. An
indicator on the torque wrench
measure the torque or twisting
force. This is the amount of
force applied to a nut or bolt
while tightening it. Vehicle
service manuals and auto repair
manuals give the torque
specification for most fasteners.
A typical specification might be
to tighten a bolt to “20 lb-ft.”
This means to apply a 20-pound
pull at a distance of 1 foot from
the bolt.
To use the torque wrench,
attach the proper socket. Place
the socket on the nut or bolt
head. Then pull on the wrench
handle. When the torque How a socket attaches to a ratchet handle.
wrench indicates the specified
torque, the bolt or nut is
properly tightened. However,
the threads must be clean and
in good condition.

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Dirty or damaged threads
put a drag on the threads as
the bolt or nut is tightened.
This gives a false reading
on the torque wrench. It can
also result in not enough
tightening.
Many torque wrenches read
in pound-feet (lb-ft) read in
pound-inches (lb-in). Use
these where you need to
accurately apply a small
torque. Types of torque wrenches.

Twelve pound-inches equals one pound-foot.

The scale on metric torque wrenches is in kilogram meters (kg-m), kilogram-centimeters
(kg-cm), or Newton-meters (N-m). Newton-meters is the preferred unit to convert from
USC to Newton-meters, multiply pound-inches by 1.35.

TORQUE-ANGLE GAUGE

Tighten torque-to-yield bolts to an initial

torque with a torque wrench (7-11).
Then final-tighten the bolt by turning
them through a specified angle with a
socket wrench.
You can easily see a 90-degree turning
angle by watching how far a ratchet
handle or breaker bar moves. From
other angles, use a torque-angle gauge.
This accurately measures the turning
angle in degrees.

Torque angle gauge.

The gauge attaches to the socket driver. The socket attaches to the gauge. As the
handle turns, the degree indicates remains at the greatest angle reached.

REMOVING FROZEN NUTS AND BOLTS

When a nut or bolt is frozen, try applying penetrating oil on the threads. Give the
penetrating oil time to soak in then try rotating the bolt or nut with a suitable spanner or
socket wrench. Tapping lightly on the bolt head with a hammer may help. If all else
failed, use a chisel, nut cracker or splitter to split off frozen nuts.

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GRIPPING TOOLS

Pliers

These are hand tools with a pair

of adjustable jaws for gripping.
There are many styles and sizes
of pliers. Combination, slip-joint
pliers may have cutting edges at
the back of the jaws for wire
cutting. Tongue-and-groove or
groove-and-land pliers such as
Chennellock pliers have the
tongues or lands on one jaw.
The grooves are on the other.
Shifting the tongues or lands to
different grooves changes the
distance the jaws can open. The
jaws remain parallel at any
setting.
Locking pliers such as vise-grip
pliers have locking jaws. This
makes them useful as pliers,
wrenches, clamps, and small Various types of gripping pliers and cutting pliers.
vises.

Lock the jaws by turning a screw in one

end of the handle. This adjusts the size of
the opening. Closing the handles then
locks the jaws into place. To release the
jaws, pull the release lever.
Combination pliers can be used as hose
clamp pliers by drilling holes in the jaws.
You can then use the pliers to remove
and install spring-wire hose clamps.

Caution: Never use gripping pliers on

hardened steel surfaces. This dulls
the pliers’ teeth. Never use pliers on
nuts or bolt heads. The pliers may
slip and round off the edges of the
hex. Then a wrench or socket will
not fit on the fastener properly.

How to adapt combination pliers so they can

handle spring-wire hose clamps.

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REMOVING BROKEN BOLTS AND STUDS

Excessive torque applied to a bolt or stud

may cause it to break. For example,
suppose a bolt or stud is damaged, rusted
or stretched. Then the bolt or stud may
break as you apply the specified torque.
When a threaded fastener breaks,
approach the problem logically. You must
remove the broken part. Be patient and
be careful not to create an even bigger
problem. Removal methods to try depend
on where the break occurred on the
fastener.
Using a stud extractor to remove a broken stud.
1. Break above surface – When the break is above the surface, you may be able to file
flats on two sides. Then use a wrench to back out the broken part. Sometimes you
can cut a slot in the bolt. Then remove it with screwdriver. Another way is to attach
locking pliers to the threads, then turn the bolt out.

2. Break close to surface – If the break is close to the surface, try removing the bolt with
a center punch on the bolt, but off center, then tap the punch lightly with a hammer.
By moving the punch and tapping it, the bolt may back out.

3. Break below surface – Sometimes the break is near or below the surface. Try
removing the broken bolt with a bolt or stud extractor. Center-punch the bolt and then
drill it. Use a drill that makes a hole as large as the inside diameter of the threads,
then use an extractor of the proper size to remove the bolt.

Caution: Extractors are hard and brittle. Excessive force may break the extractor. A broken
extractor can be more difficult to remove than the broken bolt. If a reasonable turning
force on the extractor does not turn the bolt, remove the extractor. Drill out the hole to
remove the rest of the bolt and retap the hole or install a thread insert.

PULLERS

Pullers remove parts assembled with an

interference fit. This includes removing
gears and hubs from shafts, and bearings
from blind holes. Pullers also remove seals
from axle and cylinder liners from engine
blocks.
The puller set has many pieces that can fit
to form the puller needed for the job. There
are three basic types of pullers. These are
pressure screw, slide hammer and
combination.

Using a screw puller to remove a steering

wheel.
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 Removing an axle seal with a slide-
hammer puller.
CUTTING TOOLS

Cutting tools remove metal. They include chisels, saws, files, punches. Drill, taps and
dies are also cutting tools. Power cutting tools include grinders, hones and boring
machines.

Chisels

The chisel is a cutting tool with a single

cutting edge. There are various sizes
and shapes of chisels. Striking the chisel
with a hammer makes the chisel cut.

Caution: Always wear eye protection

when using a chisel. Never use a chisel
with a mushroomed head. When the
hammer strikes the head, a piece could
fly off. The flying metal could cut you or
injure an unprotected eye.

Various types of chisels.

HACKSAW

A hacksaw is basically an adjustable metal

frame that holds a steel saw blade. The
blade is replaceable and has from 14 to 32
teeth per inch. Cutting occurs on the
forward stroke as you push the blade
across the metal. The teeth act like tiny
chisels and cut off fine shavings or chips.
Use a long steady forward stroke. Apply
enough downward force so the teeth cut
rather than slide.

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Lift then down force on the return stroke. This helps prevent dulling the teeth. A light drag
may help clear chips from the teeth.
Select a blade with the proper number of teeth per inch for the job. The teeth must be
close enough so at least two teeth are cutting. Teeth that are too close together clog and
stop cutting. The hacksaw blade for general cutting has 14 teeth per inch.

FILES

Files are used for cutting and shaping

metals, they have many cutting edges or
teeth. There are many types of files with
various “cuts”. When these cuts are far
apart, there are only a few per inch.
Parts of a file.
This is a rough or coarse-cut file. When the
cuts are close together, the file is a smooth
or dead-smooth file. A single-cut file is a
series of sharp blades. A double-cut file
has a second cut at an angle to the first.
This creates a series of teeth. Various
sizes and cuts of round, half-round, and
triangular files are used during automotive
service jobs. Always use a handle with a
file. Tapping the end of the handle on the
bench tightens the file in the handle. Keep
the file teeth clean with a file card. It has
short stiff-wire bristles that remove chips
and dirt from the teeth.

PUNCHES

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Punches are used to knock out rivets and
pins. They also align parts for assembly.
To remove a rivet, grind off the rivet head
or cut it off with a chisel then use the
starting punch and pin punch.

Various types of punches.

Mark spots where holes are to be drilled

with a center punch. The punch mark
keeps the drill bit centered as it starts
cutting. You can use the center punch to
mark parts before they are disassembled.
Align the punch marks to reassemble the
parts in the same position.

Center-punching a hole location will keep the

drill from wandering.

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TWIST DRILLS

Drill bits or twist drills are tools for making holes. The material being drilled determines
the preferred shape of the cutting edges that form the point. The grooves along the body
carry the chips out of the hole. A hand-held air or electric drill motor, or a drill press
drives the drill bit.

TAPS AND DIES

Most shops have tap-and-die sets for

cutting USC and metric threads. Taps cut
inside threads. To tap a hole, determine
the thread size needed. Refer to a tap drill
chart and select the size of drill bit
required.

The hole made by the specified tap drill will

be the proper diameter for tapping.
Dies cut outside threads on rods. A
diestock holds the die. Chamfer or bevel
the rod end so the die starts easily. The
basic procedure is the same for both taps
and dies. Apply cutting lubricant to the
surface, then begin thread cutting. After
every two turns, back off the tap or die and
apply more lubricants.
Tap being used to cut threads in a hole.

Note: You can use taps and dies to clean

and straighten damaged threads. However,
a thread chaser is the preferred tool for this
job.

Die being used to cut threads on a rod.

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