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    Italian Method of Shoe Design

    Uploaded by

    Laam Ader
    1. The document discusses techniques for making shoe last forms using masking tape. Key steps include taping the last, flattening the tape along reference lines, and marking technical points for pattern design. 2. Styles and general pattern making techniques are then covered for various shoe types. This includes determining appropriate pattern "springs" or shape corrections needed for pumps, derbies, loafers, oxfords, and boots. Dimensional allowances and construction guidelines are provided for uppers and linings. 3. Standard forms, measurements, and technical references are outlined to convert sketches into functional shoe patterns and constructions for different shoe types and styles.

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    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd

    Italian Method of Shoe Design

    Uploaded by

    Laam Ader
    2K views29 pages
    1. The document discusses techniques for making shoe last forms using masking tape. Key steps include taping the last, flattening the tape along reference lines, and marking technical points for pattern design. 2. Styles and general pattern making techniques are then covered for various shoe types. This includes determining appropriate pattern "springs" or shape corrections needed for pumps, derbies, loafers, oxfords, and boots. Dimensional allowances and construction guidelines are provided for uppers and linings. 3. Standard forms, measurements, and technical references are outlined to convert sketches into functional shoe patterns and constructions for different shoe types and styles.

    Original Description:

    book to improve your knowledge as a shoemaker

    Original Title

    Italian method of shoe design

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    1. The document discusses techniques for making shoe last forms using masking tape. Key steps include taping the last, flattening the tape along reference lines, and marking technical points for pattern design. 2. Styles and general pattern making techniques are then covered for various shoe types. This includes determining appropriate pattern "springs" or shape corrections needed for pumps, derbies, loafers, oxfords, and boots. Dimensional allowances and construction guidelines are provided for uppers and linings. 3. Standard forms, measurements, and technical references are outlined to convert sketches into functional shoe patterns and constructions for different shoe types and styles.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    2K views29 pages

    Italian Method of Shoe Design

    Uploaded by

    Laam Ader
    1. The document discusses techniques for making shoe last forms using masking tape. Key steps include taping the last, flattening the tape along reference lines, and marking technical points for pattern design. 2. Styles and general pattern making techniques are then covered for various shoe types. This includes determining appropriate pattern "springs" or shape corrections needed for pumps, derbies, loafers, oxfords, and boots. Dimensional allowances and construction guidelines are provided for uppers and linings. 3. Standard forms, measurements, and technical references are outlined to convert sketches into functional shoe patterns and constructions for different shoe types and styles.

    Copyright:

    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
    Download as pdf or txt
    of 29
    At a glance
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    The document discusses various shoe construction methods and techniques for making shoe lasts and forms for different shoe styles.

    Some of the shoe styles and constructions discussed include pumps, derbies, loafers, and oxfords for men and boots for women. Specific construction details and parameters are provided for each style.

    Technical reference points and lines discussed include tangent points along the feather edge, fitting line, last fitting points, top line, and heel edge lines. Measurements like CC' and CC" are also mentioned.

    1.

    SHOE LAST STANDARD MAKING

    Technical reference points and lines


    MAKING THE FORM

    Masking tape is used to cover the surface of the


    last and then removed to be flattened.
    Tape the outside of the last. Remove the paper in
    excess along the top line, the bottom feather edge
    and along the two center lines.
    TECHNICAL REFERENCE POINTS FOR DESIGN

    Mark the outside and inside tangent points along the


    feather edge. Then, by measuring tape trace the fitting
    line and the last fitting points.
    


    Detached it carefully as the operation can cause an


    abnormal deformation of the tape, before attaching on
    cardboard make some slots in the paper in order to
    reduce stress given by the 2D flattening.
    


    The same method is used to get the inner side form as most of
    the time , the inside and the outside of the last are different in
    volumes and shapes.To correspond the 2D halves, flatten the
    inner side along the traced top and heel edge lines of outer side.
    


    The method taught uses a system of


    pattern “springs”. Single or double slots
    that will rotate the toe of the form in order
    to prepare the shape of the patterns during
    lasting. There is a chart of springs used for
    the most used shoe constructions and
    styles. The final “mean form” is made
    which is called “unified form” including
    outside and inside differences.
    2. STYLES AND GENERAL PATTERN MAKING

    2.1. Womens’s pumps

    AC=AПн
    Bк Вт = 0,15N +25,5 ( N- length of the foot, mm)
    CC' =CC”= 10 mm
    


    Pumps construction require 5 mm of pattern “spring” in order to


    prepare patterns before making. Make the double slots to allow the toe
    part of the form to be elevated.
    The final Mean Form for pumps is made But this must be completed
    with the tracing of construction lines and reference points.
    These are necessary to convert sketched lines into technical and
    functional lines making the patterns of upper and lining
    


    Pumps upper standard

    Additional heel spring ( 3mm) might be made taking into


    account the thickness of heel stiffener.

    Inner side of top line of the pumps is normally 2-5 mm


    higher than outer side. For low heeled pumps the top line is
    symmetrical.
    


    Pumps lining standard

    A lining standard is drawn from upper


    construction with the adding allowances
    


    A lining standard for pumps with textile lining in the front.


    2.2. MEN’S DERBY

    Derby construction on a shoe last


    


    Derby “spring” correction

    4 mm spring for derby construction


    


    Derby upper standard


    


    Glue seam

    Derby lining standard


    


    Derby parameters
    2.3 MEN’S LOAFERS ( with hidden instep elastic tape)

    Loafer construction and “loafer’s spring” correction


    ( 8 mm)

    ВбА = ВбН/2 +5
    


    Loafer upper standard


    


    Loafer upper standard


    


    Loafer lining standard with 4 mm “ lining


    spring” correction
    

    2.4 MEN’S OXFORDS

    Oxford construction parameters


    


    Oxford spring correction


    


    Oxford upper standard


    


    Oxford spring correction for lining


    


    Oxford’s Lining standard


    2.5 Women’s boots

    Zip boots Boots without zipper - Slip-on boots


    Boots Spring correction
    Boots upper standard
    Boots lining standard

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