“I’ll be working my way through every easy,

delicious recipe.” —Ina Garten

around my french table

more than 300 recipes from my home to yours

Dorie Greenspan photography by

ALAN RICHARDSON

james beard award winner

around my french table
more than 300 recipes from my home to yours

Dorie Greenspan
photographs by alan richardson

houghton mifflin harcourt

boston new york 2010
Copyright © 2010 by Dorie Greenspan Library of Congress Cataloging-in- Book design by George Restrepo
Photographs copyright © 2010 by Publication Data Food styling by Karen Tack
Alan Richardson Greenspan, Dorie. Prop styling by Deb Donahue
Around my French table : more than
All rights reserved 300 recipes from my home to yours / Printed in China
Dorie Greenspan ; photographs by Alan SCP 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
For information about permission to Richardson.
reproduce selections from this book, write p. cm.
to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Includes index.
Publishing Company, 215 Park Avenue South, ISBN 978-0-618-87553-5
New York, New York 10003. 1. Cookery, French. I. Title.
TX719.G758 2010
www.hmhbooks.com 641.5944—dc22
2010014232
contents

i n t r o d u c t i o n x

nibbles and hors d’oeuvres 1

soups 52

salads, starters, and small plates 102

chicken and duck 196

beef, veal, pork, and lamb 234

fish and shellfish 286

vegetables and grains (mostly sides, but a few mains too) 326

desserts 384

fundamentals and flourishes 480

sources 514

i n d e x 515
 introduction
I college, and working at my first
w a s r e c e n t ly m a r r i e d , j u s t o u t o f
grown-up job when Michael, my husband, came into a bit of money, a few
hundred dollars that seemed to fall from the sky. He took one look at the
check and thought, “Car payments!” I, ever the romantic, saw it and almost
screamed, “Paris!”
Whoever said screaming will get you nothing was wrong. A month later,
we landed in France.
Somewhere there’s a picture of me from that trip. I’m an impossibly
skinny young woman with a huge grin. I’m spinning around with arms out
wide, and I look like I’m about to grab Paris and hold on to her forever.
Which I did.
There were a million reasons I took Paris into my heart. Everything about
the city entranced me, from the way the women walked on towering stiletto
heels over bumpy cobblestoned streets to how old-fashioned neighborhood
restaurants still had cubbyholes where regulars could keep their napkin rings.
I loved the rhythm of Parisian life, the sound of the language, the way people
sat in cafés for hours.
I fell in love with the city because it fit all my girlish ideas of what it was
supposed to be, but I stayed in love with all of France because of its food and
its people.
I’m convinced my fate turned on a strawberry tartlet. We were walking
up the very chic rue Saint-Honoré, pressing our noses against the windows of
the fashionable stores and admiring everything we couldn’t afford, when the
tartlet, a treat within our means, called out to me. It was the first morsel I had
on French soil, and more than thirty years later, I still think it was the best
tartlet of my life, a life that became rich in tartlets.
This one was a barquette, a boat-shaped tartlet so teensy that all it could
hold was a lick of pastry cream and three little strawberries, but everything
about it excited me. The crust was so beautifully baked and flaky that when
I took the first bite, small shards of it flew across my scarf. It was butter that
gave the crust its texture, remarkable flavor, and deep golden color, and a little
more butter and pure vanilla that made the pastry cream so memorable. And
those strawberries. They were fraises des bois — tiny wild strawberries — but
I had no idea of that then. What I did know was that they tasted like real
strawberries, whose flavor I must have subconsciously tucked away in my
memory.
That evening, after searching for a restaurant that would keep us within
the budget set by Europe on $5 a Day, we settled into a crêperie near our hotel. It
was startling to see a big menu offering nothing but crepes, and not a single
one famous in America! Everything we tasted was a novelty: the buckwheat
crepe was lacy and chewy, and the sunny-side-up egg that accompanied it had
a yolk the color of marigolds and the true taste of eggs.

x around my french table MORE THAN 300 RECIPES FROM MY HOME TO YOURS
 I returned home to New York City, assured my mother that I loved her
even though she’d made the mistake of having me in Brooklyn instead of
Paris, and proceeded to devote the rest of my life to remedying her lapse in
judgment.
I took French lessons, learned to tie a scarf the French way, and in
anticipation of spending more time in cafés, I practiced making an espresso
last long enough to get through a chapter of Sartre.
And I cooked. I made the food I’d loved in France, the food you’ll find in
this book — simple, delicious, everyday food, like beef stews made with rough
country wine and carrots that I could have sworn were candied but weren’t
(I’ve got a similar dish on page 244); salads dressed with vinaigrettes that had
enough sharp mustard in them to make your eyes pop open (see page 484);
and hand-formed tarts with uneven edges that charred a bit when they caught
the oven’s heat (just as the one on page 458 does).
I returned to Paris as often as I could and traveled through France as
much as I could. On each trip, I’d buy cookbooks, collect recipes from anyone
who’d share them (and almost everyone I asked, from farmers in the markets
to chefs, was happy to share), and take cooking and baking classes everywhere
they were offered. Then I’d come back and spend days at a stretch trying to
perfect what I’d learned or to teach myself something new.
When Marie-Cécile Noblet, a Frenchwoman from a hotel-restaurant
family in Brittany, came to live with us as an au pair for Joshua, our infant son,
I was working on a doctoral thesis in gerontology but thinking I wanted to
make a change in my life. Within weeks of her arrival, I was spending more
time in the kitchen with her than in school with my advisors.
Marie-Cécile was a born cook. When she made something particularly
wonderful and I asked a question, she’d give me a perfect Gallic shrug, put her
index finger to the tip of her nose, and claim that she’d made it au pif, or just by
instinct. And she had. She could feel her way around almost any recipe — as
I’d later see so many good French cooks do — and she taught me to trust my
own instincts and to always have one tool at my side: a spoon to taste with.

I t w o u l d t a k e m e a d e c a d e t o make my passion my work, but shortly

after Marie-Cécile arrived, I put aside my dissertation, left my job in a
research center, and got a position as a pastry cook in a restaurant. A couple
of years later, I landed some assignments as a food writer: I became the editor
of the James Beard Foundation publications and was hired to write for Elle
magazine. Best of all, I got to work with the greatest French chefs both here
and in France.
It was the late 1980s; some of les grands, as the top chefs were called, were
shaking up haute French cuisine and I had a front-row seat at the revolution.
I worked in Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s first American kitchen when he
banished butter from his sauces and did away with long-cooked stocks in
favor of light pan jus, vegetable purees, and his then-radical flavored oils. I
tagged along with Gilbert Le Coze, the chef-owner of Le Bernardin, a new

INTRODUCTION xi
 breed of seafood restaurant in New York City, as he strode through the Fulton
Fish Market picking the best of the catch and teaching other city chefs how
to get the most out of fish, like monkfish and skate, they’d once ignored. And
I was lucky enough to spend some time with Alain Ducasse learning how he
worked the sunny ingredients and the easygoing style of the Mediterranean
into his personal take on rigorous French cuisine.
These amazingly talented chefs and others like them were adding flavors
from all parts of the world to their cooking and, in the process, not only
loosening up French cooking, but making it more understandable to us
Americans — more like the melting-pot cooking that’s the hallmark of our
own tradition.
I was dazzled by their brilliance, but I was fascinated by something else:
the unbroken connection to the cooking of their childhoods. After making a
startlingly original ginger sauce for his famous molten chocolate cake, Jean-
Georges urged me to taste a cup of thick lentil soup, because it was made
exactly as his mother would have made it (my version is on page 90). Having
prepared a meal that included a kingly amount of precious black truffles,
Daniel Boulud told me he couldn’t wait to have hachis Parmentier, a humble
shepherd’s pie (see page 258). And Pierre Hermé, France’s most famous
pastry chef, after making a chocolate dessert that was masterly, revealed that
its haunting flavor came from a jar of Nutella (just as it does in his tartine on
page 415).

F and forth between New York

o r y e a r s i c o n t i n u e d t o t r av e l b a c k
City and France. Then, thirteen years ago, I became truly bicontinental:
Michael and I moved into an apartment in Paris’s 6th arrondissement, and I
got the French life I couldn’t ever have really imagined but had always longed
for. Finally I could be a regular in the small shops of my neighborhood and at
the vendors’ stalls at the market, and nicest of all, I could cook for my French
friends, and they for me.
Now I can chart the changing seasons by what my friends and I are
cooking. When asparagus arrives, dinner at Martine Collet’s starts with
pounds of them, perfectly peeled to their tips, steamed just until a knife slips
through them (see page 128), piled on a platter, and flanked by two bowls of
her lemony mayonnaise. In early fall, when the days are warm but the nights
are a little cooler, Hélène Samuel makes her all-white salad (page 108), a
mix of mushrooms, apples, celery, and cabbage dressed with a tangy yogurt
vinaigrette. When the cold weather is with us for real, Paule Caillat can be
counted upon to serve Parisian gnocchi (page 374), a recipe passed down to
her by her Tante Léo. And throughout the year, we lift the lids of Dutch ovens
to reveal tagines, the beloved spice-scented Moroccan stews (try the one for
lamb with apricots on page 284), or slowly braised boeuf à la mode (page 252)
with a sauce gently seasoned with anchovies, or chicken braised in Armagnac
(page 204), or an all-vegetable pot-au-feu (page 376).
What’s being cooked in French homes today is wonderful partly because
it’s so unexpected. One week you might have a creamy cheese and potato

xii around my french table MORE THAN 300 RECIPES FROM MY HOME TO YOURS
gratin (see page 360) just like the one a cook’s great-grandmother used to
make, and the next week you’ll be treated to a simply cooked fish with a
ginger-spiked salsa (page 489) taking the place of the butter sauce that would
once have been standard.
I love this mix of old and new, traditional and exotic, store-bought and
homemade, simple and complex, and you’ll find it in this book. These are
the recipes gathered over my years of traveling and living in France. They’re
recipes from friends I love, bistros I cherish, and my own Paris kitchen.
Some are steeped in history or tied to a story, and others are as fresh as the
ingredients that go into them; some are time-honored, and many others are
created on the spur of the moment from a basket full of food from the day’s
market.
This is elbows-on-the-table food, dishes you don’t need a Grand
Diplôme from Le Cordon Bleu to make. It’s the food I would cook for you
if you came to visit me in Paris — or in New York City, where all of these
recipes were tested. The ingredients are readily available in the United States;
almost everything can be bought at your neighborhood supermarket, and the
techniques are straightforward and practical, as they must be — French home
cooks are as busy as we are.
Holding this book of recipes, a record of my time in France, I have the
sense of something meant to be: the reason that Michael and I ended up with
plane tickets and a strawberry tartlet all those years ago.

about the recipes

< All the recipes in this book were made with large eggs, unsalted butter, and
whole milk unless otherwise specified.

< Just about every time you cook or bake, you’ve got to make a judgment call
— it’s the nature of the craft. I tested these recipes over and over and wrote
them as carefully and precisely as I could, but there’s no way I could take
into account all the individual variables that will turn up in your kitchen.
I couldn’t know exactly how powerful “medium heat” is on your stovetop,
how constant your oven temperature is, how cool your steak is when you
slide it into the pan, how full your skillet is when you’re sautéing, and a
million other little things that affect the outcome of what you’re making.
And so, I’ve given you as many clues as I can for you to decide when
something is done, and I’ve often given you a range of cooking or baking
times, but the success of any cooking — whether from this book or any
other — depends on using your judgment. Don’t cook something for 15
minutes just because I tell you to — check it a little before the 15-minute
mark, and then keep checking until it’s just right. I always feel that when I
send a recipe out into the world, I’m asking you to be my partner in making
it, and I love this about cookbookery. I trust your judgment, and you
should too.

introduction xiii
 tomatoes provençal
makes 6 servings

s e r v i n g
E v e r y f r e n c h c o o k w h o m a k e s o v e n - r o a s t e d herb-topped tomatoes
has his or her own recipe, but the fact is it needs no recipe at all. There are
a few givens — the tomatoes, to be sure; olive oil to moisten them and make a
I can’t think of a dish that little basting sauce; herbs to top them; and garlic to set your culinary compass
doesn’t go with these
tomatoes, from omelets to the South of France — but which herbs you use, how you cut the tomatoes,
and salads to roasted whether you roast them until they’re almost melted or leave them a little firmer
chicken, chops, and are all up to you.
vegetables. You can serve
tomatoes Provençal as Many recipes for tomatoes Provençal call for cutting the tomatoes in half,
a side dish, but because removing the seeds, and making a copious topping, really a stuffing, of herbs,
they’re very good at room garlic, and bread crumbs. As delicious as that is, it’s not my favorite way to play
temperature, they’re great
on a buffet or in a picnic the recipe — I prefer the rusticity of leaving in the tomatoes’ juicy innards,
basket, or brought to and I don’t use bread crumbs, because I like a dish with more emphasis on the
a friend’s for a potluck tomatoes and herbs. But I’ve no doubt that after you make this once, you’ll find
meal. Coarsely chopped,
the tomatoes and their oil your own version.
make a very good sauce for One last word: of course, everything will be better if you use ripe tomatoes,
pasta. but because of the bold-flavored herbs and garlic, this is a recipe you can turn
s t o r i n g to even when tomatoes are not at their prime.
The tomatoes can be
covered and kept in the
refrigerator overnight; About 2 tablespoons extra- 2 garlic cloves (or more or less),
serve cold, or allow virgin olive oil split, germ removed, and
them to come to room 6 ripe tomatoes, about finely chopped
temperature, or reheat
them gently. 4 ounces each 2–3 tablespoons minced mixed
Salt and freshly ground fresh herbs, such as parsley,
pepper basil, rosemary, oregano,
thyme, and/or chives

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Use a little of
the olive oil to grease a 9-inch pie plate or other baking dish that can hold the
12 tomato halves in a single layer.
Core the tomatoes and then slice them crosswise in half. If you want to
scoop out the seeds, go ahead, but again, it’s not necessary. Season the cut sides
of the tomatoes with salt and pepper, and arrange them in the pie plate. (It’s
okay if the halves jostle one another and tilt on their sides a bit — precision
isn’t crucial here.)
Toss the garlic and minced herbs into a small bowl, season with salt and
pepper, and, using your fingers, mix to blend. Sprinkle the topping over the
tomatoes, making sure that each tomato gets its share, then drizzle the tomatoes
and topping with olive oil. Don’t drench the tomatoes, but don’t be stingy either
— you want the topping to be lightly moistened, and it’s good to have some oil
in the bottom of the pan.

344 around my french table M O RE T H AN 3 0 0 RE C I P ES F R O M M Y H O M E T O Y O U RS

 Roast the tomatoes for 25 to 30 minutes. Spoon some of the accumulated b o n n e i d é e

juices over the tomatoes, and continue to roast for another 20 to 30 minutes, Tomato Provençal Tian.
The tian is named for the
until the tomatoes are very tender and easily pierced with the tip of a knife. If pottery dish, like a deep-
you like your tomatoes firmer, take a look at them at the 20-minute mark and dish pie plate, that holds
decide if they’re done enough for you. the tomatoes. Slice the
When you remove the pan from the oven, baste the tomatoes again. tomatoes crosswise into
thirds and arrange them in
slightly overlapping circles
in an oiled 9-inch pie plate.
(You may need more or
fewer than 6 tomatoes.)
Cover the tomatoes with
the herb-garlic mixture (you
may need a little more),
drizzle generously with
oil, and roast. If you like,
a few minutes before the
tomatoes are ready to come
out of the oven, dust the
top of the tian with grated
Parmesan or Gruyère. For
a browner top, run the pan
under the broiler before
serving. If you use the
cheese, the dish is better
served hot than cold.

v e g e ta b l e s a n d g r a i n s 345
my go-to beef daube (page 244)
 my go-to beef daube
makes 6 servings

s e r v i n g
W e a l l n e e d a g r e a t b e e f s t e w in our cooking back pocket, and this
one’s mine. It’s fairly classic in its preparation — the meat is browned,
then piled into a sturdy pot and slow-roasted with a lot of red wine, a splash
I like to use shallow soup of brandy, and some onions, garlic, carrots, and a little herb bouquet to keep it
plates or small cast-iron
cocottes for this stew. company. It finishes spoon-tender, sweet and winey through and through, and
Spoon the daube out into burnished the color of great-grandma’s armoire.
the little casseroles and let I call this dish a daube, which means it’s a stew cooked in wine and also
each guest dig into one.
means that it’s made in a daubière, or a deep casserole, in my case, an enamel-
s t o r i n g
coated cast-iron Dutch oven. However, a French friend took issue with the
Like all stews, this can be
kept in the refrigerator for name and claimed that what I make, while très délicieuse, is not a daube, but boeuf
about 3 days or frozen for aux carottes, or beef and carrots. She’s not wrong, but I’m stubbornly sticking
up to 2 months. If you are
with daube because it gives me the leeway to play around.
preparing the daube ahead,
don’t reduce the sauce, just My first-choice cut for this stew is chuck, which I buy whole and cut into
cool the daube and chill 2- to 3-inch cubes myself. Since the meat is going to cook leisurely and soften,
it. Then, at serving time,
it’s good to have larger pieces — larger than the chunks that are usually cut for
lift off the fat (an easy job
when the daube’s been stews — that will hold their shape better. (If you’ve got a butcher, you can ask
chilled), reduce the sauce, to have the meat cut at the shop.) My favorite go-alongs are mashed potatoes
and season it one last time.
(page 355), celery root puree (page 354), or spaetzle (page 372).
If you’re serving a crowd, you can certainly double the recipe, but if the
crowd is larger than a dozen, I’d suggest you divide the daube between two pots,
or put it in a large roasting pan and stir it a few times while it’s in the oven.
b e p r e p a r e d : See Storing for how to make the daube ahead — a good idea.

4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut 1½ pounds carrots, trimmed,

crosswise into 1-inch-wide peeled, halved crosswise, and
pieces halved or quartered length-
1 3½-pound beef chuck roast, fat wise, depending on thickness
and any sinews removed, cut ½ pound parsnips, trimmed,
into 2- to 3-inch cubes peeled, halved crosswise, and
2 tablespoons mild oil (such as quartered lengthwise (optional)
grapeseed or canola) ¼ cup Cognac or other brandy
Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 750-ml bottle fruity red wine
2 yellow onions or 1 Spanish (I know this may sound
onion, quartered and thinly sacrilegious, but a Central
sliced Coast Syrah is great here)
6 shallots, thinly sliced A bouquet garni — 2 thyme
1 garlic head, halved horizon- sprigs, 2 parsley sprigs, 1 rose-
tally, only loose papery peel mary sprig, and the leaves
removed from 1 celery stalk, tied
together in a dampened piece
of cheesecloth

244 around my french table MORE T H AN 3 0 0 RE C I PE S FROM M Y H OME T O Y O U R S

Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
Put a Dutch oven over medium heat and toss in the bacon. Cook, stirring,
just until the bacon browns, then transfer to a bowl.
Dry the beef between sheets of paper towels. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to
the bacon fat in the pot and warm it over medium-high heat, then brown the
beef, in batches, on all sides. Don’t crowd the pot — if you try to cook too many
pieces at once, you’ll steam the meat rather than brown it — and make sure that
each piece gets good color. Transfer the browned meat to the bowl with the
bacon and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Pour off the oil in the pot (don’t remove any browned bits stuck to the
bottom), add the remaining tablespoon of oil, and warm it over medium heat.
Add the onions and shallots, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook,
stirring, until the onions soften, about 8 minutes. Toss in the garlic, carrots, and
parsnips, if you’re using them, and give everything a few good turns to cover
all the ingredients with a little oil. Pour in the brandy, turn up the heat, and
stir well to loosen whatever may be clinging to the bottom of the pot. Let the
brandy boil for a minute, then return the beef and bacon to the pot, pour in the
wine, and toss in the bouquet garni. Once again, give everything a good stir.
When the wine comes to a boil, cover the pot tightly with a piece of
aluminum foil and the lid. Slide the daube into the oven and allow it to braise
undisturbed for 1 hour.
Pull the pot out of the oven, remove the lid and foil, and stir everything
up once. If it looks as if the liquid is reducing by a great deal (unlikely), add
just enough water to cover the ingredients. Re-cover the pot with the foil and
lid, slip it back into the oven, and cook for another 1½ hours (total time is
2½ hours). At this point, the meat should be fork-tender — if it’s not, give it
another 30 minutes or so in the oven.
Taste the sauce. If you’d like it a little more concentrated (usually I think
it’s just fine as is), pour it into a saucepan, put it over high heat, and boil it down
until it’s just the way you like it. When the sauce meets your approval, taste it
for salt and pepper. (If you’re going to reduce the sauce, make certain not to
salt it until it’s reduced.) Fish out the bouquet garni and garlic and, using a large
serving spoon, skim off the surface fat.
Serve the beef and vegetables moistened with the sauce.

beef, veal, pork, and lamb 245

a short primer on
the do’s and don’ts of cheese
The first time I went to the grand annual You almost always start with a soft goat cheese and
agricultural fair held in Paris, I was reminded of finish with a blue.
Charles de Gaulle’s remark that it was impossible One evening in Paris many years ago, I was
to govern a land with 264 cheeses. My next thought having dinner alone at a restaurant that specialized
was that the great general vastly underestimated his in cheese. After a cheese-centric starter and main, it
country’s output of what is often considered milk’s was time for the traditional cheese course. I chose
greatest achievement. what I wanted from the cart and checked with the
Cheese is so important in France that it’s waiter about where I should start my dégustation. No
its own course, coming between le plat de résistance sooner did he point to the 12 o’clock spot on my plate
(aka the main course) and dessert, or sometimes (the usual starting point), than the gentleman at an
replacing dessert. Depending on the meal and the adjoining table excused himself for interrupting and
occasion, the cheese course might be as simple as piped in that he thought the cheese at 3 o’clock really
one perfect cheese — in the winter, when Mont should be the first bite. “Mais non, mais non,” said the
d’Or, a soft-enough-to-serve-with-a-spoon cheese, woman at the table to my left, insisting that while the
is in season, I often serve it by itself. Or the course 12 o’clock cheese was fine for the opener, the cheese
can be an elaborate spread including goat, cow, and at 7 o’clock was seriously misplaced. After a lot of
sheep milk cheeses, soft and hard cheeses, mild talk and a little rearranging, I was given permission
and strong cheeses, and at least one blue-veined to eat — and I was also given a taxi ride home by my
cheese. two new friends.
With a cheese platter, variety is key, but timing Things get a little more complicated when
is all — each cheese should be at just the proper you’re served a cheese course at someone’s home
stage of ripeness, and of course, all the cheeses or at a bistro where there’s a communal cheese
should be served at room temperature. If a cheese platter and you’re encouraged to serve yourself and
is too cold, you lose the nuance of its texture, and pass the platter on to the next table. This is where
you won’t get the full measure of its aroma. you can easily commit the most common and most
I love the elegance of a cheese platter, and serious of cheese crimes: slicing the cheese in the
I also like the rituals that attend it, at least I like wrong direction.
them now that I know them. Trust me, it’s easy for Faced with a triangular piece of ripe, runny
a newcomer to get tripped up. Brie, you might cut the tip off the cheese and think
If you’re having cheese in a fine restaurant, you nothing of it, but your host, while too polite to say
can relax — everything will be taken care of for you. anything, may think you were badly brought up or
The cheese waiter will wheel over the cart, explain perhaps a little selfish for taking the best part for
each cheese, ask you what you want, and suggest a yourself. (Although, in truth, most French people
cheese or two if, judging from what you’ve chosen, go easy on us Americans, understanding that cheese
he thinks you’ll like it (or if he thinks you’re missing is not really in our culture.) The rule of thumb
a genre). As he cuts, he’ll arrange the cheeses around with cheese is to cut it so that the piece that’s left
the plate and point out to you the order in which on the platter is more or less the same shape as the
you should eat them. In general, you start with the original piece — unless the cheese is round, like a
most delicate cheeses and work your way around Camembert, in which case you cut it like a pie.
the plate until you come to the really strong ones. Keeping the form is easy with a triangle of Brie
and harder, but happily a little less important, with

388
certain big wedge-shaped cheeses. When in doubt, accompaniment to cheese — and you’ll never hear
smile and ask for help or consult the book a friend anyone squawk about it — white wine is becoming
gave me: L’Art de Couper le Fromage (The Art of Cutting the drink of choice for many contemporary diners.
Cheese), a 64-page book with diagrams rivaling those Precedents for this are the pairing of goat cheeses
that appeared in my dreaded elementary geometry from the Loire Valley with white wines from the
text. region, most especially Sancerre; the happy marriage
When the platter is in front of you, take as of Roquefort with sweet, syrupy Sauternes; and the
much as you want, but plan ahead — taking seconds match between nutty Comté, made in the Jura, with
of cheese is just not done. While it’s a compliment wines carrying the mountainous region’s appellation.
to take more of the main course, taking another But now you see white wines with all kinds of
serving of cheese is impolite, because the cheese is cheeses. In fact, the sommelier from an haute Paris
not something your hosts made themselves. restaurant told me that he did a cheese-and-wine
When you’re the one serving the cheese, you tasting with the staff and that in 80 percent of the
have only to select perfect cheeses, allow them to cases, white wine was the winning choice.
reach their correct temperature, and serve them I’ve timidly mentioned this to a few of my
with the right accompaniments — which would most old-fashioned French friends, i.e., those who
be bread and wine. The baguette or country bread serve red wine with every dish (never changing the
that you served with dinner is fine, but it’s also nice wine during the meal), and the response has been
to serve what the French call a “fantasy” bread, one consistent: as they poured red wine for cheese,
made with nuts or dried fruits. they’ve said, “Perhaps it could be so,” leaving me
As for the wine. . . . It used to be simple and to believe that things might not change chez them,
pretty much unquestioned: you had red wine, usually but that chez moi, as long as I don’t snip the nose off
left over from the main course. But times have the Brie, I can pour them some white.
changed. While red wine is still the most common

389
 salted butter break-ups
makes 4 servings

s e r v i n g
E — and it is — I’d want to
v e n i f t h i s w e r e n ’ t w o n d e r f u l ly g o o d
make it just because it’s so much fun to serve. Essentially a large, buttery,
flaky, salty-sweet rectangular cookie with a pretty little crosshatch pattern on
If fun is what you’re after, top, it is put in the center of the table, and guests serve themselves by reaching
bring the break-up to
the table whole and let over and breaking off pieces of the sweet. Yes, it’s messy — it’s impossible for
everyone break off pieces this to be a crumbless endeavor — but everyone, young and old, easygoing and
big and small; if order suits stuffy, likes it. For neatness’s sake, you could break the cookie up in the kitchen,
you better, break up the
cookie in the kitchen and or you could even cut it into cookie shapes after you roll it out, but that wouldn’t
serve the pieces on a plate. be as amusing, would it?
s t o r i n g Called broyé in French, meaning crushed, the cookie is a tradition in the
You can make the dough Poitou region, a part of western France where butter is prized. Butteriness
up to 3 days ahead and
is one of the cookie’s defining characteristics, and saltiness is another — it’s
keep it in the refrigerator,
or you can wrap it airtight undeniably salty, and now and again, you can even feel the salt on your tongue.
and freeze it for up to In France, the cookie is made with sel gris, a moist, slightly gray (gris) sea salt with
2 months. The baked
crystals that are large enough to be picked up individually. If you can’t find sel
cookie will keep in an
airtight container for about gris, go with kosher or another coarse salt.
3 days. b e p r e p a r e d : The dough should be chilled for 1 hour.

1¾ cups all-purpose flour 9 tablespoons cold unsalted

2/ 3 cup sugar
butter, cut into 18 pieces
¾–1 teaspoon sel gris (see above) 3–5 tablespoons cold water
or kosher salt 1 egg yolk, for the glaze

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Drop in
the pieces of butter and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal — you’ll
have both big pea-sized pieces and small flakes. With the machine running,
start adding the cold water gradually: add just enough water to produce a dough
that almost forms a ball. When you reach into the bowl to feel the dough, it
should be very malleable.
Scrape the dough onto a work surface, form it into a square, and pat it down
to flatten it a bit. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill it for about 1 hour. (The
dough can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or wrapped airtight and frozen for up to 2 months.)
When you’re ready to bake, center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven
to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment
paper.
Remove the dough from the fridge and, if it’s very hard, bash it a few times
with your rolling pin to soften it. Put the dough between sheets of plastic wrap
or wax paper and roll it into a rectangle that’s about ¼ inch thick and about 5 x
11 inches; accuracy and neatness don’t count for a lot here. Transfer the dough
to the lined baking sheet.
Beat the egg yolk with a few drops of cold water and, using a pastry brush,
paint the top surface of the dough with the egg glaze. Using the back of a table
fork, decorate the cookie in a crosshatch pattern.

400 around my french table M O RE T H A N 3 0 0 RE C I P ES F R O M M Y H O M E T O Y O U RS

 Bake the cookie for 30 to 40 minutes, or until it is golden. It will be firm
to the touch but have a little spring when pressed in the center — the perfect
break-up is crisp on the outside and still tender within. Transfer the baking
sheet to a rack and allow the cookie to cool to room temperature.

desserts 401