Carrot: History and Iconography: January 2011
Carrot: History and Iconography: January 2011
Carrot: History and Iconography: January 2011
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called carrots Daucus carota (combining Greek Crete [Daucus creticus or Athamanta cretensis], Figure 1. Carrot or parsnip from a wall
and Latin names) and parsnips Pastinaca sativa. the next best being the produce of Achaia, and painting in a Roman tavern in Ostia
of all dry localities. It resembles fennel in ap- (Caseggiato del Termopolio), early 2nd
century CE, http://www.ostia-antica.org/
Antiquity pearance, only that its leaves are whiter, more
regio1/2/2-5.htm.
The Greeks refer to wild carrot as keras, sta- diminutive, and hairy on the surface. The stem
phylinos agrios, and daukos and early forms of is upright, and a foot in length, and the root has
carrot began to be cultivated in the last few cen- a remarkably pleasant taste and smell. This kind
turies BCE (Dalby, 2003). Carrot (karo) was first grows in stony localities with a southern aspect.
mentioned in the third century BCE by Diphilus The inferior sorts are found growing every-
of Siphnos. Theophrastus (371-287 BCE) in En- where, upon declivities for instance, and in the
quiry into Plants IX;15 states that daukon grows hedges of fields, but always in a rich soil. The
in Arcadia and is saffron colored (Hort, 1926). It leaves are like those of coriander, the stem be-
seems clear that the Greeks were aware of car- ing a cubit in length, the heads round, often
rot, wild carrot, and parsnips. three or more in number, and the root ligneous,
Wild carrot was reported as a medicinal plant in and good for nothing when dry. The seed of this
the gardens of ancient Rome, where it was used kind is like that of cumin, while that of the first
as an aphrodisiac and in some cases as part of kind bears a resemblance to millet; in all cases it
a concoction to prevent poisoning. In fact the is white, acrid, hot, and odoriferous. The seed of
root of the wild carrot was less fit to be eaten
seeds of wild carrot contain estrogen, and in the second kind has more active properties than
than the domestic one (Grant, 2000; Dalby,
some cultures are used as an effective method that of the first; for which reason it should be
2003).
of contraception. Archaeobotanists using DNA used more sparingly.
This name for the garden carrot is found first in
analysis have found Roman-made pills recov- If it is considered really desirable to recognize
the Roman writings of Athenaeus in 200, and
ered from a 130 BCE shipwreck that appear to a third variety of the daucus, there is a plant
in a book on cookery by Apicius Czclius in 230
contain carrot (Fleischer et al., 2010). of this nature very similar to the staphylinos,
in which 3 recipes specifically include carrot.
The famous herbal Peri Ylis Iatrikis (latinized as known as the ‘pastinaca erratica,’ with an ob-
One in particular draws interest as it is entitled
Materia Medica) written in Greek about 65 CE by long seed and a sweet root. Quadrupeds will
“Carotae seu pastinacae,” suggesting that it is
Pedanius Dioscorides, a Roman army physician touch none of these plants, either in winter
a recipe for carrots, with parsnip as a substitute.
from Anazabos, Cilicia (now Turkey), describes or in summer, except indeed, after abortion.
Apicius was a gourmet and always tried to in-
staphylinos, which bears umbellae of white The seed of the various kinds is used, with the
clude the best ingredients. So here he is perhaps
flowers, which are purple or red in the middle exception of that of Crete, in which case it is
suggesting that carrot is preferred to parsnip.
(Beck, 2005). This characteristic can only apply the root that is employed; this root being par-
ticularly useful for the stings of serpents. The An alphabetical recension of the Materia Medi-
to carrot as parsnip has yellow flowers. Both
proper dose is one drachma, taken in wine. It is ca of Dioscorides was illustrated in 512 (Juliana
wild [agrios] and cultivated [hemeros] forms are
administered also to cattle when stung by those Anicia Codex) for presentation to Juliana Ani-
discussed. The wild plant was thought to ward
reptiles.” (Bostock, 1855, XXV, 64). cia, the daughter of Emperor Anicius Olybrius.
off reptiles, aid in conception, act as a diuretic,
A facsimile of this herbal with commentary by
aphrodisiac, and even as an abortifacient when In speaking of the medicinal virtue he adds “the
Otto Mazel has been published (Der Wiener
used as a vaginal suppository [pessary]. The cul- cultivated form has the same as the wild kind,
Dioskurides, 1998, 1999). This most famous
tivated carrot was described as more edible but though the latter is more powerful, especially
herbal illustrates cultivated and wild carrots (Fig.
less medicinally effective. when grown in stony places.” Pliny called its
2). Figure 2A, the first clear depictions of an
Interestingly there is also a reference to daukos root pasticana gallica, “food for Gauls.” Pliny
orange carrot, is labelled Staphylinos Keras (or
called Cretan in which both the seed and root speaks of four kinds of wild carrot (daucus),
cultivated carrot) and portrays a deeply orange
draw out the menstrual period, foetus, and some of which “grow everywhere on earthy hills
straight root with rosette of leaves that looks
urine, relieve colic, allay chronic coughs, come and cross-paths having leaves like those of co-
very close to our modern carrot. Figure 2B, la-
to the aid of people bitten by poisonous spiders riander, a stem a cubit high and round heads.”
belled Staphylinos Agrios (wild carrot) shows a
when drunk with wine, and disperse swellings. Among other vegetables that Syria produces, plant in flower with slenderer orange roots. Fig-
The Cretan carrot is a related plant, Athamanta Pliny refers to one very similar to the sta- ure 2C, labelled Gingidion, shows a flowering
cretensis sometimes called candy carrot (Candie phylinos, and known to some persons as “gin- plant with an extremely fine yellow root and has
was the ancient name for Crete). Dioscorides gidion,” (wild or French carrot) only that it is been identified as Daucus gingidium. Elaphobo-
also refers to a plant he called elaphoboscon, more slender than the staphylinos and more bit- scom (parsnip) is illustrated separately.
that had umbellae with yellow flowers. No other ter, though it has just the same properties. Eaten
umbelliferous plant has yellow flowers and an either raw or boiled, it is very beneficial to the Medieval
esculent root except parsnip. The white, sweet stomach, as it entirely absorbs all humours with
In 795 King Charlemagne included carrots in
edible root is described at about three fingers which it may happen to be surcharged (Bostock,
the list of plants recommended for cultivation
long and a finger thick with stalk and is used 1855, XX, 16).
in the Frankish empire covering western and
as a vegetable when fresh. Thus, Dioscorides There is an intriguing wall painting of a food central Europe (Fox, 1933). Throughout the
clearly distinguishes carrot from parsnip. scene in the Roman tavern in Ostia (Caseggiato Dark Ages and early Middle Ages, carrots and
At about the same time, the Roman historian del Termopolio) built in the Trajanic-Hadrianic parsnips were the main starchy vegetables for
Pliny the Elder (23-79), in Historia Naturalis writ- period 98-138 (Fig. 1) that closely resembles ordinary people in Europe, as they were easy to
ten in the year 77 refers to a plant grown in carrot or parsnip. If this is so, it is the first known grow and store and a very welcome food to eat
Syria resembling a parsnip, called gallicam in depiction of one of these root vegetables from during the lean winter months. In the Geoponi-
Italy and daucon in Greece: any period. ca, a 20 volume work compiled during the 10th
“Petronius Diodotus has distinguished four Galen (2nd century CE) was the first to use the century in Constantinople for the Byzantine em-
kinds of daucus, which it would be useless here words daucus and carota to distinguish carrot peror Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus, daucon
to describe, the varieties being in reality but two from parsnip (pastinaca). Galen confirms that is named among kitchen vegetables. Colored
in number. The most esteemed kind is that of carota was cultivated when he wrote that the illustrations of carrot do not appear again until
Figure 2. Cultivated and wild carrots from the Juliana Anicia Codex of 512: (A) Staphylinos Keras, the cultivated carrot; (B) Staphylinos Agrios, the
wild carrot, but appears to be a primitive type of cultivated carrot; (C) Gingidion, the wild carrot (Daucus gingidium).
A B C
the 11th century but, as typical of early medi- roots (Fig. 3A). The script indicated that the century carrots were reported in Spain, followed
eval images, are very crude, yet nevertheless Greeks called it stafilimagriam, others called by Italy in the 13th, and France, Germany, Hol-
quite accurate (Fig. 3). it giger or eggon, the Romans called it udon- land and England by the 14th century.
Towards the end of the Dark Ages, purple, red, aulion, the Carthaginians called it siccansade, The discovery of a large quantity of what ap-
and yellow carrots were reintroduced to Europe the Calabria (Italy) called it pastinaca silvatica. pear to be processed carrot roots was found in
from Central Asia by the Arabs. Around 950, Ibn The text states: “It grows in stony places and the main market square in Krakow, Poland, in
Sayya-r al-Warra-q of Baghdad produced a cook- mounds; for women who suffer at childbirth an organic layer dated to the 14th century (Mu-
book, the most comprehensive work of its kind and are not purged. With Herba pastinaca, eller-Bienik, 2010). The exquisitely illustrated
with more than 600 recipes that included red- cooked, together with the same water in which manuscripts known as the Tacuinum Sanitatis, a
orange, yellow or white carrot (jazar) (Harvey, it was cooked, you take 30 peppercorns; mix to- medieval handbook on wellness, commissioned
1992). These were cultivated in Persia in 900, gether and give to drink; she will be purged. The by northern Italian nobility during the last dec-
Iran and northern Arabia and the Middle East, same recipe as written above also works against ades of the 14th century contains images of
in the 10th century, in Syria about the 11th cen- toothache.” Two manuscripts, Ashmole 1462 plants called pastinace but some of them are
tury, and in Europe about 1100 (Banga, 1957a, labelled Pastinaca Silvatica (Fig. 3B, a yellow/or- obviously carrot (Fig. 4).
1963a). Carrots were valued for their sugar ange root) and Ashmole 1431 labelled Pastinaca
content and sweet dishes like jam, syrups and (Fig. 3C, a darker red root), contain essentially Herbals
desserts, and became part of traditional English the same text. The advent of printing in the 15th century and
cookery during this medieval period. Arab traders and Moorish invaders brought car- the technology of the woodblock print had an
The late 11th century witnessed an intriguing rots to the Northern Mediterranean, while at enormous influence on books about plants. The
manuscript Bodlean 130, Herbal of Pseudo- the same time carrots travelled eastwards along 15th and16th centuries – the age of explora-
Apuleius, which illustrates carrot root, leaves the caravan routes and the Silk Road (Davidson, tion and the beginnings of scientific inquiry –
and flower quite accurately with yellow-orange 1999; Grigson, 1974; Dalby, 2003). By the 12th saw an unprecedented demand for the printed
A
Figure 4. Peasant digging carrots from Plantes. Gerard uses the English name carrot, Figure 7. Purple and pale yellow car-
the Tacuinum Sanitatis, Roma 4182, 1380- but in Latin calls it Pastinaca: P. sativa var. tenui- rots in Vegetable Market (1655-1665),
1400. The long, thin roots, either purple folia, the yellow carrot and P. sativa atro-rubens, Nicholaas Maes (Dutch) (Rijksmuseum,
or light yellow, intermingled in the fore- Amsterdam).
the red carrot. He distinguishes parsnips from
ground row and in the harvested pile
clearly represent carrot. The Latin text
carrots, calling the former P. latifolia sativa and
reports that pastinace stimulates sexual the latter P. latifolia sylvestris and expresses dis-
intercourse but slows down digestion, satisfaction with the name similarity. He notes
and that the purple type, ripe in winter, Daucus as a name for carrot used by Galen, but
is the best. notes that many Roman writers called it pasti-
nace or other names.
Renaissance Paintings
The villa of Agostino Chigi in Rome contains
decorations by Raphael Sanzio made between
1515 and 1517. The ceiling of the loggia of
Cupid and Psyche derived from the Metamor-
phoses (Golden Ass) of Apuleius in the 2nd
century contains festoons painted by Giovanni
Martini da Udine that illustrate 160 species of
plants. An orange carrot appears alongside a
purple root (Fig. 6). Another ceiling panel de-
picts an orange carrot alongside a white rooted
parsnip.