Good Woodworking July 2015 PDF
Good Woodworking July 2015 PDF
Good Woodworking July 2015 PDF
The No.1 magazine for aspiring designer makers THE HOME OF WOODWORKING
www.getwoodworking.com
ARTIST...
uses laser-cut
wood to go 3D
BANDSAW...
Why Andy likes
PRAIRIE... this machine
BEST IN UK
GOING
House table
for you to make
PERFECT...
first dovetail
FOR GOLD
How this young man won
joint for drawer
his WorldSkills place
PLUS...
Build: Mike Jordan’s framed ledged & braced door
WOODWORKING GROUP
l New Designers show
1-4 July, London
l Carve: Edward Hopkins gets out his lettering chisels
l Turn: Les Thorne creates a stand for his wife’s jewellery
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Welcome
PRODUCTION
Designer: Malcolm Parker
Retouching Manager: Brian Vickers
Ad Production: Robin Gray
ADVERTISING
Business Development Manager: David Holden
Email: david.holden@mytimemedia.com
Tel: 01689 869867
The picture above shows UK Squad trainer Christian Notley floored by the SUBSCRIPTIONS
Subscriptions manager: Kate Hall
achievement of the three young men, only one of whom, after a valiant nail-biting Subscriptions: Sarah Pradhan
Tel: +44(0)1858 438798
fight, will be representing his country at WorldSkills in August. Spoiler alert here:
our cover star Edward Harringman, pictured far left, said: “Being selected for MANAGEMENT
Publisher: Julie Miller
WorldSkills São Paulo 2015 is an incredible honour for all of us, and is something Commercial Sales Manager: Rhona Bolger
I’ve been working towards personally for over two years. I’m not sure I would be Email: rhona.bolger@mytimemedia.com
Tel: 01689 869891
as hungry for success and driven to be the best I can be if it wasn’t for exposure to Chief Executive: Owen Davies
competitions – and I would love to bring back the gold medal.” Read about the Chairman: Peter Harkness
selection, p50, then consider how important this competition is to the future of Tel: 0844 412 2262
From outside UK: +44 (0)1689 869896
fine woodworking in the UK. Good Woodworking and sister magazine The
www.getwoodworking.com
Woodworker are pledged to support this competition, surely the benchmark of
best practice for young woodworkers. Elsewhere I talk to an artist who uses
laser-cut wood in his designs, p66, we look at the intricate carving of a Rajasthani
family, p62, Michael Huntley makes drawers, p30, Martin Aplin recreates a Prairie
House table, p34, and Mike Jordan constructs a windowed cottage door, p41. http://twitter.com/getwoodworking
Contact us
Editorial 01689 869848 Email andrea.hargreaves@mytimemedia.com
Post Good Woodworking, Enterprise Way, Edenbridge, Kent TN8 6HF
See the panel on the right for a full list of magazine contacts
Techniques
MA DE IN ITA LY On the Making improbable real 24
Issue 294 £4.25
...Irwin blade
technology
cover Dave Roberts looks at the linenfold tradition
Off to Brazil
www.getwoodworking.com
ARTIST...
Andrea Hargreaves Steamer kit 28
uses laser-cut
wood to go 3D
watches the final Jeff Gorman assembles bending kit
nail-biting hours of
BANDSAW...
Why Andy likes
the contest to First dovetail 30
PRAIRIE...
BEST IN UK
this machine
choose the young Michael Huntley sets out drawer joint
GO IN G
House table
for you to make
man who will
PERFECT...
first dovetail
joint for drawer
PLUS...
FO R GO LD
How this young man won
his WorldSkills place
represent the UK
at August’s
WorldSkills
People & places Subscribe to
Good Woodworking
WOODWORKING GROUP
New showroom 10
l Build: Mike Jordan’s framed
ledged & braced door New Designers show
1-4 July, London
by Mark Cass
Felder opens showroom and training centre
for a FREE
01 GW294ah 5.indd 1
BIG
The Tiny tools for intricate work
Adventures in toyland 66
!
project
Artist incorporates laser-cut timber
Your favourites
Projects News 8
Little House on the Prairie? 34 Courses 12
Er, no: Martin Aplin’s table was inspired by
Frank Lloyd Wright’s grand Prairie Houses Readers’ ads 13
Window on the world 44 Letters/Makers' notes 68
When’s a stable door not a stable door? When Around the House 73
it’s Mike Jordan’s ledged & braced design
Next month 89
Now for the drawers 26 Finishing Touch 90
Stephen Simmons continues restoring a
battered chest, tackling the drawers
Steam bending 28
Jeff Gorman’s chair-making exercise calls for
steam-bending techniques
Going potty 74 WOW!
Phil Davy’s elegant garden pot tote is Andy King tests…
constructed from recycled oak
Gem of an idea 80
Trend Diamond Cross stones
Milwaukee M18 BLDD drill
15
16
Blade runner
Bracelets, necklaces and earrings are Charnwood BS350 Premium bandsaw 18 Andy sees Irwin blades
accommodated on Les Thorne’s stand
Phil Davy tests… made in Italy 20
4 GW294 July 2015 www.getwoodworking.com Skil Fox 2-in-1 sander 78
GW
295
ON SAL
24 JULYE
Clerkenwell
collaboration
How top maker and sculptor made
Design Week focal point 46
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BRADFORD 105-107 Manningham Lane. BD1 3BN 01274 390962 GRIMSBY ELLIS WAY, DN32 9BD 01472 354435 PLYMOUTH 58-64 Embankment Rd. PL4 9HY 01752 254050 IN-STORE
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CAMBRIDGE 181-183 Histon Road, Cambridge. CB4 3HL 01223 322675 LEEDS 227-229 Kirkstall Rd. LS4 2AS 0113 231 0400
CARDIFF 44-46 City Rd. CF24 3DN 029 2046 5424 LEICESTER 69 Melton Rd. LE4 6PN 0116 261 0688
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MANSFIELD 169 Chesterfield Rd. South
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For security reasons, calls may be monitored. All prices correct at time of going to press. We reserve the right to change products and prices at any time. All offers subject to availability, E&OE.
News Comment, insight, views and news of
woodworkers from around the globe
Triton T12
range expands
Equipped with the latest Mabuchi motors and
robust, all-metal gearing, Triton’s T12 compact
tools are powered by two 1.5Ah Li-ion
Samsung-cell batteries. The included 1-hour
Festool launches
charger delivers a 30-minute charge to 80%
capacity.
Built-in LED worklights provide clear
visibility in murky conditions, and moulded
cordless saw
grips allow easy handling and control over
extended periods.
The T12DD drill driver (£129.33 inc VAT)
features a 10mm (3⁄8in) removable single-
Festool is expanding its 18V cordless range with a compound mitre saw system, the HKC 55, sleeve keyless chuck and
which comes with a 5.2Ah battery pack and brushless EC-TEC motor. It is designed for work provides 22Nm torque
such as roofing. with 17-stage
The new FSK trimming rail comes in three lengths, and an integrated rubber spring torque
automatically brings the saw back to the starting position ready for more cross-cutting. adjustment
For convenience and safety it is equipped with a hinged cover. An internal lever causes the for a variety
pendulum hood to slide back, providing a clear view of the saw blade and enabling easy of materials and
sawing, even when performing mitre cuts. The cross-cut, rip-cut and fine-cut saw blades are screw sizes.
designed for fast changing thanks to the FastFix system. The starting price is £326.40. For The T12ID impact driver
more info go to www.festool.co.uk/hkc (£139.99) delivers 90Nm of
sustained torque and 3000
impacts-per-minute, and the 6mm
(1⁄4in) hex bit holder allows rapid,
Build your perfect plane single-handed bit changes.
The T12AD angle drill (£108.95) delivers
Axminster Tools & Machinery has just different options that could be applied to just 18Nm of torque through the 90° drill head with
introduced a new and innovative range of one plane. Multiply that by the five planes in low-profile Sanou 10mm (3⁄8in) keyless chuck.
Veritas bevel-down bench planes. The range, the range (Nos.4, 4½, 5, 5½ & 7) and it equals Featuring a variable speed of 0-3,400spm
which is made in Canada but put together to 540 different permutations. Plane parts can be with 12.2mm stroke length, the T12RS
make complete planes in the UK, is exclusive purchased online at axminster.co.uk or from reciprocating saw (£107.12) comes with
to Axminster and allows the craftsperson to one of the company’s seven stores. Once uni-directional blades suitable for single-
select from a number of different components potential users have selected the components handed operation, or bi-directional blades for
and build their own unique plane. (body size, blade, frog, front knob and rear higher speed 2-handed operation can be
There are two blade tote), trained staff at fitted. Benefits include easy tool-free blade
options (O1 and PM-V11), AT&M will assemble the change and a 1⁄2in universal shank to suit a
six variations on a rear tote, customised plane. It can wide range of saw blades.
three for the front knob then be taken away from a The T12OT oscillating multitool (£108.63)
and three for the frog. store or will be dispatched. features precision metal gearing and blade
Number crunching the More info on mounting, with variable oscillating speed
figures www.axminster.co.uk from 6,300 to 16,000opm with six
reveals that graduations.
there are 108 For more info visit www.tritontools.com
The Felder UK team on the mezzanine level of the new showroom and training centre
The new reception desk shown off by Felder’s Abra Nkrumah at the
launch party was made by Edward Williams Furniture
01684 594683
www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk
The Threshing Barn, Welland Road,
Upton upon Severn, Worcestershire, WR8 0SN
Mark Kilroy with his combi Quality tools from the finest
UK, US & Canadian manufacturers
July
1-2 Beginner woodturning (Axminster)
10 Fine bowl turning (Axminster)
Showtime in Brighton
14 Pen making (Axminster) The list of big-brand exhibitors who will be at
16-17 Beginner routing (Axminster) Tool Show 2015 at the American Express
17 Pen making (Sittingbourne) Stadium, Brighton on 25 and 26 July is
21-22 Beginner woodturning staggering, from Bahco to Wera, and from
(Sittingbourne) Makita to Milwaukee. Bosch, for example,
Axminster Tool Centre along with other companies, promises great
Unit 10 Weycroft Avenue show deals and an excellent array of mains
Axminster and cordless power tools – watch out for its
Devon EX13 5PH charging system. Expect to see lots of new
Tel: 0800 975 1905 tools and machines, like Fein’s range of
multitools that is getting its first airing at the Busy scenes from last year’s show
5-10 Projects, advanced furniture making show. You could also get a chance to win the
12-17 Wall cabinet, beginners, intermediate new DeWalt 18V collated screwgun, and enjoy is threatening to make something while you
17-19 Portable bookcase, beginners, pitchside – this is the home of Brighton & look on, and will be sharing tips.
intermediate Hove Albion FC after all – masterclasses from The show is being staged by the city’s own
West Dean College Festool and DeWalt. tools, fixings, repair, workwear and hire
West Dean Oh, and we’ll be there too, along with sister company, PR Industrial. For more info go to
Nr Chichester mag The Woodworker’s Editor Mark Cass, who www.prindustrial.co.uk
West Sussex PO18 0QZ
Tel: 01243 811301
Machinery Woodturning
DeWalt DW1251 radial arm saw, excellent condition, hardly used, includes Graduate bowl lathe, c/w Axminster chuck, Varispeed, sundry faceplates, etc,
legstand, buyer collects, £250 £550 ovno, buyer collects
David Banks, Cheshire 01606 551747 Franklin, Cambridgeshire 01353 663949
Scheppach Basato 3 bandsaw, 6in depth of cut, 13in width of cut, used lightly by Coronet Major lathe, 30in between centres on metal stand with many extras,
hobby turner to cut mainly bowl blanks, as new condition, spare blades, £250 tools and wood, hobby use only, £350 ono
Davey, North Oxfordshire 07707 242948 FW Bates, East Sussex 01424 882775
Scheppach planer/thicknesser HMS 3200 CI, 12in cast-iron tables, very little use, Record CL2 36-18 wood lathe plus bench, new condition, Axminster chucks, set
perfect working order, possible delivery, £600 Ashem Crafts rounding & trapping plane for chairmaking, set Record turning
Mr K Hambridge, Warwickshire 01675 464074 chisels, collet chuck system set, £500 Mr JF Hall, Kent 01304 268836
Book your I am a private advertiser. Please enter my advertisement in the Reader Ads in the following category:
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Wanted or For Sale under the following heading
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Stone Grader grades the Square Edge Jig for AngleMaster sets jig Truing Tool makes grindstone
stone for a 1000 grit finish plane irons and wood chisels to any angle from 10°-75° exactly round and flat
Budget diamonds
This range is cheaper but
will it be as durable?
▲ The grips prove useful for honing ▲ Smaller credit card hones work ▲ The bench stone has plenty of ▲ The bench stone proved flat
larger blades such as this adze well for touching up router cutters surface area for honing chisels when tested with this pre-
and planes flattened chisel
T
he Trend diamond bench stone has been bonded with different grits of 1000 fine and I found the longer double-handed file type
my ‘go to’ stone since I first reviewed it 300 coarse diamonds equivalent to 15 and 50 especially useful for going over a bigger edge
10 years back. Those stones are pricey microns. where working over a stone is difficult; it
though, so this new range, called Diamond However, this stone quickly raises a wire worked a treat on my adze.
Cross thanks to their relief pattern to help move edge as well as backing off and polishing the
the slurry and swarf, has been designed to offer backs but I guess the questions will be about Conclusion
the same more durable monocrystalline durability and flatness compared with the If you are looking for a good range of diamond
diamonds, but at a lower cost. original. The first is tricky to test in a short honing options at an affordable price then
It offers stones suitable for honing small space of time, but checking the flatness Trend has hit the mark. The only issue is the
tools as well as a bigger 8 x 23⁄4in bench stone against a chisel pre-flattened on my original durability of the diamonds to the stainless steel
that could interest those looking for a way into Trend showed it to be of equally decent stead, plate, but with a 3-year warranty on all the
diamond honing of chisels and plane irons maintaining the same flatness. range, you have plenty of time to find out!
without breaking the bank – but it does have a The smaller and more specialised stones all
cut-price construction compared with my have a somewhat tacky small handle or two
trusty stone of old. bolted to them, but each of the 1.5mm-thick The Verdict
The Diamond Cross plate is a 3-part stainless steel diamond-bonded plates is cut
+ Various profiles available; finger grips on
construction with a precision-ground tool steel out to include lugs that are sandwiched by the
smaller hones; big area on bench stone
core with two thin stainless steel plates plates and prove to be pretty useful.
– Finger grips look a little cheap; time will tell
for durability
Prices How we rate…
Our product prices reflect ★ Don’t get your hopes up or your wallet out! Rating
typical values as we go to Typical price: £18.95 for smaller hones;
★★ Well, it works but really needs improvement
press. We cannot guarantee £59.95 for 8in bench stone
these prices, though, and ★★★ Performs well, but you will find better
★★★★ Great performance and value for money Monocrystalline diamonds
thoroughly recommend Grit sizes in coarse and fine
that you shop around. ★★★★★ So good, even Andy would get his wallet out!
Stainless steel plates
Er, where
length down but still able to put out 60Nm
of torque.
With its second speed of 1800rpm it’s no
slouch for drilling smaller-diameter holes, and in
does it fit?
its lower 450rpm gear it will drill 38mm holes in
timber so it is good for chippies fitting Yale-type
cylinder door locks for instance. It will also drill
up to 13mm in steel, but this particular model is
drill driver only; there’s no hammer function
although there is a slightly longer version with
identical specifications that includes the
hammer function.
The variable-speed trigger is responsive and it
also acts as the switch for the bright worklight.
It performed well piloting and running in
screws up to 100 x 6mm gauge on a decking
M
ilwaukee’s 18V platform comprises and fencing project, and a swift change to a
standard brushed machines and the 30mm Forstner was equally impressive in both
brushless Fuel range so this new hard- and softwood.
model is a bit of an oddity: it has a brushless Switching to a 32mm auger in beech showed
motor but is not a Fuel tool. However, this is the need for a side handle as the torque
still a top performer built to the same external generated on the low speed is enough to pull
tank-like robustness. and twist the drill from your grip, but it
The difference may be in the gearing: Fuels certainly is good testimony to the power it
▲ A top slider switches between the gears; max boast all-metal construction and the internal generates. Softwood was easier and I could
speed is nippy gearing here may not be. control the pull without the high wrist strain.
Conclusion
This drill sits well if you want technology
without increased weight, but with some
trade-off of overall drilling capacities in timber.
But is a standalone drill/driver valid nowadays?
Before impact drivers, a drill/driver for the
fastening work alongside a combi drill was
more commonplace, but now the market
seems to go for combi drill and impact
packages the drill/driver could be a harder
product to shift with the inclusion of the
Milwaukee combi drill in the same
configuration, and I’d err towards that just for
▲ A worklight is activated by pulling the trigger ▲ There’s a single collar to switch between drill the extra versatility. Either way, Milwaukee has
and torque control a compact, powerful, well-made and
competent drill here.
The Verdict
+ All metal chuck; brushless motor for longer
runtime; bright worklight
– Drill/driver functions only are limiting;
description of metal gear casing implies
internal gearing may not be; no side handle
Rating
Typical price: £179.00 (body only)
Weight: 2kg with battery fitted
Speeds: 0-450, 0-1800rpm
▲ Constructing some decking with 100 x 6mm ▲ An auger into beech didn’t stall the drill but it Chuck capacity: 13mm
screws was a breeze needs a side handle! Torque: 60Nm
Bearing up well
Designed for light use, this
machine nevertheless sports
some good engineering
F
alling into the price band that errs towards affordability over
robustness, Charnwood has a range of three saws sharing
identical components and design to suit both budget and
capacity needs.
You still get a good bandsaw for your money, and a good blade – far
too often companies make do with a cheap one that comes with the
saw, only to get complaints that the saw doesn’t work properly.
The one fitted on all three of these is British made, and in my testing
of the biggest model it made short work of the 175mm-thick oak off
which I sliced a few 3mm-thick veneers without struggle.
Aluminium features heavily in its build, from the band wheels to the
guide post and fence assembly so this saw will be more at home in a less
demanding environment. The two bigger machines are targeted as Light
Trade and the entry level one as Hobby.
Double bearings
The main difference over any bandsaw I’ve looked at over the years is the
use of double bearings for the side support. This now gives four bearings
on the upper guide, and it’s replicated below; this is a
decent feature as the lower guides are often more
simplistic. By doubling up the bearings the blade has
additional support on wider blades to minimise any
twist as you turn tighter corners as well as better
support on standard straight cutting.
Adjustments are a combination of small knobs and
hex key. I thought these to be a little on the small side
for a really good nip up to ensure the settings remain constant, more so
for older or less strong fingers.
The guide post itself has a double-function locking knob, the internal
ring acting as the lock, with the outer adjusting the height accordingly.
This works well, although the overall quality of all the adjusters is where
cost savings have been made, plastic being used instead of nylon.
Blade tensioning is the now almost standard tensioning wheel and
tracking knob backed up with a quick-release tensioning lever for fast
blade swaps. You have to remove the fence running rail to remove the
blade but the wingnut release below it makes it a doddle to do so, so you
can swap a blade in a matter of a minute or so.
▲ A neat feature is the use of double bearings ▲ Twin trunions support the table and allow ▲ This post allows the table to be set perfectly
for blade support quick angle setting square to the blade
▲ A tensioning lever allows fast blade swaps ▲ Tensioning can be assessed with the indicator ▲ You can check the setting through the
viewing window in the top door
▲ Initial tensioning is achieved with the ▲ The height post is set with the double- ▲ The fence rail removes easily for
top adjuster function knob blade swapping
▲ The blade dealt with oak consistently ▲ As an indication of the collection feature, this ▲ Using the basic mitre fence it’s very easy to
and cleanly is from one rip cut cut a tenon in a minute or so
lower wheel is linked to an external knob that A further handy feature common to all the standard, but is sufficient for general use.
slackens the drive belt for a second speed option saws is the switchable worklight on a handy The slots aren’t standard though, so an
when working in other materials. It also reveals flexible stem. The final area to consider is the aftermarket fence won’t fit if you are looking
a neat feature shared by all three saws in the cast-iron work table. This is flat and well to upgrade.
range: slots in the bottom of the saw allowing finished with mitre slots for the supplied mitre
the dust to drop into a small drawer in the base. fence, which along with the sliding fence Conclusion
The rear dust port has a cover cap to keep allows a variety of cuts to be easily made. I did So although not the heaviest of builds out there,
the dust within the base so that it drops into a few quick tenons to check out both fence nonetheless the Charnwood pulls its weight and
the drawer if you don’t use an extractor. It does options and was pleased enough with the comes up with decent performance, but it needs
a decent job although there was a bit of dust results although there is some play in the to be looked after in the more robust light trade
on the floor. mitre slot as the fence isn’t of top-end environment for which it is badged as suitable.
They have
the technology
Being given the
opportunity to see
how Irwin makes
its saw blades was
right up Andy’s
street. Better still,
he had to travel to
Italy to see the
setup! Initial work starts with flat plates that are laser or plasma cut to the correct parameters
I
rwin enrolled the manufacturing It all starts with the steel, bought in from
expertise of saw blade specialists FLAI to Germany as plate thicknesses and widths to
make its premium blades in Udine, suit specific blade diameters and designs. The
north-east Italy, taking control of the facility factory’s 35 or so employees turn out around
around three years ago, and has invested in 1.2m blades per year.
new and specialist own-designed machines; First, the blades are cut to their respective
around 60% of the machinery has been diameters, arbor bores, tooth count and
installed since the acquisition, with around additional work such as expansion slots and
$10m of investment. resin holes for sound deadening, on CNC-
Responsible for designing many of the blades guided plasma cutting machines or the newer
is Ken Hall who guided us around the process. and quicker laser cutters.
Once the blades are cut, each is put through
a machine that presses a groove into them.
This gives the blade tension under load, but Blades go onto this machine to check them for
still needs to be checked for true to prevent it true after tensioning
wobbling or binding as it cuts.
Each type and diameter of blade needs a Tipping the blades
different tension ring position as well as different Tipping the blades is next with either a direct
pressure to get it right and it took around weld or brazing used to achieve the bond, with
seven months of researching to come up with differing types of tips utilised depending on the
the data to get each blade correctly tensioned. material that the blade is designed to be used on.
The process of running the groove imparts a There are some big investments here with a
minute dishing to the blade, so each is new machine costing around €250,000 sitting
assessed for true, a display indicating any alongside some of the older ones, but capable
anomalies after the laser has scanned it. Then of faster and more complex operations.
it’s down to the expertise of the operator to I asked why some blades were brazed while
fine-tune any discrepancies with a deft tap or others were welded, a technology that was
two of a planishing hammer to tweak it to ported over from tipped bandsaw blades. Ken
within the tolerances set up. explained: “Brazed teeth allow for a larger
A further check for trueness on another grain of carbide which is ideal for stationary
machine shows any imbalance around the machines where resharpening can be
blade edge, which is again deftly managed by important. Welding is a stronger bond so is
This machine runs a tensioning ring into each grinding away minute amounts to balance it more effective on handheld machines where
blade to keep its tracking true before it moves on to the next stage. blades are seen as a more disposable item.”
Close up of blade on machine A laser reads to blade surface indicating any The skill of the workforce then comes into play
minute anomalies, shown up on screen as a by tapping the blade to address any irregularity
different colour
If you need to know anything about saw blades, No, not an industrial washing machine, but an Various machines tip the blades, some more
Ken Hall is your man! Here he’s talking Teflon oven for annealing the blades complex than others in their ability
Sharpening & profiling metal state to emerge in the bright Irwin blue use on a daily basis, this one has a really sharp
Irwin has also invested heavily in tip sharpening Teflon coating. almost needle point, akin to a fleam-sharpened
and profiling. Alongside older machines that The blades are tempered in an annealing handsaw.
grind the tips in a more basic style, newer fully oven over 18 hours, then left to cool over- Pushing through both melamine board and
automated robotic-armed machines were night. This process is to balance the steel as it cross-cutting veneered MDF, the finish was so
spinning and moving the blades through the has localised hardening from the laser and clean and free of chipping and feathering it
machining processes to make all the grinds plasma cutting processes that make the steel looked like it had been planed rather than sawn.
that set up a blade for a particular cut. brittle in key areas such as the gullets. It’s here where you see the true investment,
If the blade is to be a standard bare metal with such a high-quality finish within the
finish it goes through aluminium oxide blasting Blades on test blades’ construction as well as from the finish
and cleaning processes to clean off any oxides A small woodworking workshop is used to and performance they achieve.
and to remove the discoloration from the check blades. While I’m pretty au fait with the I came away with a new insight into how
brazing and welding process for a uniform and usual tooth pitch, geometry and what they are high-quality blade manufacturing revolves
bright finish. designed to do, there was one that was new to around embracing technology, using quality
Elsewhere, other blades go into a huge me. Although it was an alternate top bevel, as materials and attention to detail; all are in
carousel for the Teflon coating and baking is the standard for the majority of blades we abundance here.
process, Teflon helping prevent resin build up,
helping to dispel heat build up and being a
brilliant rust proofer.
This particular area of the factory was off
limits to my camera, but we were allowed to
go inside where a huge snaking train of blades
was slowly weaving its way through the unit to
gain their slick coatings.
Although the blades go into the Teflon plant
unfinished, complete with oxides and other
contaminants on them, the facility does a
pre-wash, scrub and steam-clean operation
before the Teflon is sprayed on. It takes around Each tip is induction heated to form a solid bond Close up of a blade being ground
two hours for each blade to go from its bare to the blade
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A higher plane?
...T
o hiding secret drawers and
I’ve recently been chatting to compartments in bureaux. In a
similar way, it’s tempting to think
a company that specialises not of the fluidity of the ‘cloth’ represented in
so much in building illusions linenfold decoration on panels as the freehand
work of a wood carver, but received opinion
as making the improbable seems to be that, from the outset, the addition
real, and the part that wood of this design has been more of a
cabinetmaking operation. Just as panelling (or
plays in its work, about all of wainscotting) began to be ‘productionised’ in
which more next month – the 15th century through the development of
frame-and-panel construction, so the use of
with luck and a following moulding planes made the creation of linenfold
wind. During the course of the reliefs more a matter of machining than craft.
Its relative ease and speed of production
conversation, however, one of may go some way to explaining why it Linenfold created courtesy of Wealden Tool
the points made was that, featured so widely in north European Company’s cutters
woodwork between the 14th and 16th
“things don’t need to be what centuries. Or then again, maybe people just around these folds, their ends then need to be
they appear to be,” which, liked it: perhaps linenfold was the perennially shaped with chisel and gouge to complete the
popular Laura Ashley print of its day? After all, impression of loosely gathered fabric.
when you think about it, is the oak, in which linenfold was frequently used, Juggling act though it sounds, this
charter for creativity that has a distinctive grain that suggests the play of combination of cutters affords complete
light on a woven fabric; moreover, oak – freedom in designing variety into those folds,
underlies all sorts of especially when it’s figured with medullary but when applied to solid timber panels it’s
woodworking practices, from rays – doesn’t require the level of detail that’s also a process that commits you to reducing a
needed to bring, say, a fruitwood’s grain to lot of that timber – quartersawn oak, perhaps,
veneering or using man-made life, meaning that linenfold is a relatively if you’re after maximum stability and brightest
boards for carcassing, say… simple way to create a striking effect. And 600 figuring – to woodchips. And if you’re making
years later, the router has only made that folds that are, say, 10-12mm deep, that’s quite
effect even easier to achieve. a lot of heat and wasted material. The
alternative would be create the moulding in
Drape made easy thinner stock and then glue it to the panel, but
Now, I’ve read an account explaining how it’s still a procedure that involves a lot of
Dave Roberts, Consultant Editor linenfold’s peaks and troughs can be built up bit-swapping, setting out and handwork –
on panels using a large-diameter cutter to drawbacks, as some would see them, that are
create the hollows and crests, a dovetail cutter neatly resolved by the linenfold cutter from
to undercut the folds, and a V-groove bit to Wealden Tool Company, the Kent-based
chamfer edges. After removing the waste from producer of router and moulding plane cutters
Sound principles
The watch phrase
for dealing with
drawers is ‘one at
a time’, advises
Stephen Simmons
H
aving fitted new bracket feet last
month, I’m going to concentrate
on the drawers this time. They are
the heart of the matter and as they
take a lot of stick their restoration has to be
robust and based on sound principles.
But first, it’s always best to reduce the
number of loose pieces whenever logically
possible. As I had a lovely old but rather fragile ▲ Pic.1 G-clamps: the right tool for the job but keep them well padded, even on the inside of the carcase
strip of mahogany for one section of side
facing, that was the obvious candidate. The Pic.3 Vacuum
▲
Seeing what you’ve got ▲ Pic.2 Back to the future: likely originals are
There can be more constituent parts to a so much more elegant than Victorian
drawer than first meets the eye. Here there replacements
▲ Pic.4 Simple but effective: bent pins make excellent mini-clamps and ▲ Pic.5 …wax the new runners so that they glide from the outset
after removal…
▲ Pic.6 Utilitarian as well as decorative: there’s a missing section of ▲ Pic.7 45° for security: new sections of beading are better fitted with a
cockbeading to the left of the dead butterfly…and note the ghastly scarf rather than just butted; corners are mitred
handle botch
than a rub joint in the angle formed by the project (Pic.4). The remaining pin holes in the a decision based purely on personal preference
bottom and sides, a little less than a right runners are immaterial and will soon fill up and aptitude; use what you feel most
angle if a thick bottom is chamfered to fit into a with beeswax or candle wax when you wax the comfortable with in similar circumstances.
narrower rebate (Pic.3). runners (Pic.5). I also decided to re-veneer the whole top
The originals varied between a single length Cockbeading is the protective strip round the rather than patch the original; it was too badly
of oak and several short sections butted drawers (Pic.6). It’s advisable to work on it after damaged and could be re-cycled for other
together which are much easier to work as rub the runners as it can get damaged when projects. With animal glue, a steam iron and a
joints. Don’t be tempted to use pins rather dismantling the drawers, but I treated myself veneer hammer there was no need for any
than glue as the permanent fixing; you’ll only to a few sections beforehand on the one that form of clamping. Such a large area can be
be storing up trouble for the future as could remain intact (Pic.7). As last time, I like to quite challenging as a first project; it’s
inevitable wear sets in and the pins begin to splice in new sections at an angle of 45° for a something that needs practice but it’s not
protrude and gouge. more secure fit. I also like to fit them slightly impossible and is definitely worth aspiring to.
proud and plane them down , only forming the The whole project took seven years which
Clamps and cockbeading rounded profile when the glue has cured. isn’t as daunting as it sounds. There were long
There is, however, a way of using pins as Colouring and polishing can be left until later, periods of inactivity including a full 18 months
temporary clamps. Make some small squares certainly after cleaning the drawer fronts, to while we packed up the workshop and moved
of ply with a fine hole drilled through them, ensure that you match to the right colour. to France… and remember that full-time
drill more holes through the runners professional restorers need to get out and do
themselves and when they are glued into place At long last… something else in their free time.
drive pins through the holes into the drawer With the drawers all but complete – I still only
bottom but bend the heads over onto the ply
to apply pressure.
had four replacement handles – the end was in
sight. To form the section of moulding for one
Next Month
Stephen looks at the restoration of animal
When the glue has cured remove the pins side and the front of the base I used a scratch-
and god figures
with pincers, illustrated here from a different stock rather than a router or moulding planes,
▲Pic. 2 Hold the bending jig in the vice with a longitudinal batten screwed
to its underside
B Tip
ending the legs and rail of my
design-as-you-go chair was a
straightforward job (GW206:26), Be safe — never
but making and obtaining the use harmful fluids
supporting kit took more time than the actual in anything that
bending. Although my steaming chest (Pic.1) could possibly be
was made from 20mm water and boil-proof mistaken for a
plywood, I could have used almost any poor drinking vessel.
heat conductor that could safely contain
steam at atmospheric pressure.
I happened to fit the steam supply tube into ▲Pic. 3 The central divider helps to fold the webbing round the legs
a plumber’s tank connector, though directly
poking it through a snugly fitting hole would (not wetting) certain woods render them This time, I decided that since the tension on
have served quite well. A pair of transverse compressible, but not stretchable. To prevent these fibres should not be very great, I’d try
bearers support the work and allow good the outer fibres of some bends (like Windsor applying pressure to the bend by using a
circulation of the steam. chair backs) from breaking out, they need to be ratchet cargo strap (Pics.2 & 3).
The guide for steaming time is roughly pressed together by some means, though this is
¾hour per inch of thickness (1.8 minutes per less essential on mild bends such as mine. Bending jig
mm). To be certain of thorough heating, I Pic.3 shows how the central divider controlled
allowed 11⁄4 hours for the 11⁄4in (32mm) Bending in practice the webbing. Screwing the ratchet mechanism
diameter workpieces. To preserve the heat, the job needs to be done to the jig helped to keep things under control.
as swiftly as possible. When working single- The webbing – which in the photo has gone a bit
Bending principles handed on the earlier chair, I lost time while awry – wraps right round the jig, passing
When a beam is bent, the material on the inside struggling with two G cramps needed to hold through a gap in the batten fixed to the jig’s
of the bend is compressed while the outer side down the two curved blocks intended to hold underside. The bending drill simply involves
is put under tension. Steam heating or boiling down the fibres on the outside of each bend. donning water and heat-resistant gloves, fishing
▲Pic. 4 Here Jeff bends the steamed rails against a former ▲Pic. 5 His Stanley 113 compass plane was made between 1912 and 1918
Tip
To draw the curves on the back rail former,
get somebody to bend a thin lath while
you draw around it. Also, overtightening G
cramps can permanently distort the frame.
No pressure...
The two Ds, dovetails and drawers, usually equate to Ds
for difficult, but follow Michael Huntley’s exercise and
it’s really not so bad…
T
here is a goodly number of ways that some doors on it or some drawers in it. Hinging larger openings divided by rails into which a
drawers are made. In historical terms doors will be covered in the future, but for now small box could slide. Those boxes were
one can often date a piece of furniture by let’s make a simple old-fashioned drawer. actually drawers. Early drawers either sat on a
the drawers. I am going to try to describe floor of boards or were hung with a groove in
some of the varieties starting with the simplest – Construction history the side that fitted into runners nailed to the
and oldest – and finishing with modern The earliest drawers were not really drawers carcase. The drawers themselves were usually
construction. It may take a couple of articles! but little compartments in coffers that were nailed together, the sides being rebated into a
But once you can make a carcase as described called tills. As coffers developed into chests thick front. Runners were sometimes added
in GW293, then probably you would like to put with carcases, compartments appeared with underneath to raise the drawer up above the
▲ Pic.2 Marking tails ▲ Pic.3 Marking thickness of pin board on tail board
▲ Pic.8 Transferring tail board thickness to pin board ▲ Pic.9 Marking perpendiculars on pin board
boards and front carcase rail. fitting it to the drawer back in such a way that
Tails or pins? By 1700 large dovetails were being used to
join the sides to the front and back. The
it could expand and contract by having the
screws holding the base to the back in slots. In
If you have already studied the making of
dovetails you may have an opinion about drawers began to be fitted onto runners that situation the drawer boards ran from left
which should come first, pins or tails. Well, beneath the drawer sides and because the side to right not front to back.
I trained as a restorer and sometimes we grooves were no longer needed, drawer sides In designing drawers you need to consider
had to cut replacement pins and themselves could be thinner. whether they are flush with the surface of the
sometimes replacement tails. It was no There was a problem though: even when you carcase or proud, perhaps to allow a finger grip
good saying, “Oh, I can’t do it that way!” put a moulding or veneer on top of the on the underside of the drawer front or as a
When teaching students I cut tails first ‘through’ dovetail it was still likely to show decorative feature because the drawer fronts
because tails are easier for the beginner to through. The answer was lapped dovetails, in are of particularly nice timber. Sides are usually
visualise. You cannot pull a wedge-shaped which the tail is housed into the drawer front. about 12mm, backs a bit less and fronts about
tail through a hole; therefore you cannot There is also an issue about drawer bottoms. 20mm. Bottoms are 4 or 6mm ply these days
pull the tail out. That is the purpose of In the early days they were nailed on. By the but used to be solid. Cedar was used to repel
dovetails, to be unable to pull the tails 18th century they were being rebated into the the moths.
through the holes in the other board. sides, the runners often being glued onto both
Therefore, when pulling a loaded drawer the side and the bottom boards. There was still Your first drawer
out you won’t pull the drawer front or the an issue about shrinkage though. The thin but As a first drawer, if you don’t already have a
drawer back off the drawer side. In design solid bottom boards would shrink and pull carcase, why not try making a drawer to fit an
terms dovetails are used to hold two away from the edges of the drawer. That was existing opening in a chest of drawers that you
components together mechanically. solved by gluing the drawer bottom to the do have? That way there is no pressure, it is
front, running it in grooves on the sides and just an exercise to get used to the techniques.
▲ Pic.10 Sawing waste with coping saw ▲ Pic.11 Cleaning up pin board
You can throw the practice pieces away. slopes on the back. Set the side in a vice and cut piercing saw (Pic.10). Using a large chisel, clean
Cut out the drawer front and bevel it slightly the sloping tails down to the gauge line (Pic.4). up the waste (Pic.11). Don’t try to go back to
so that it will sit in the aperture without falling Then cut the shoulders (Pic.5), using a the gauge line in one chop, but creep up on it
out. Cut the drawer-sides so that they just fit fine-toothed crosscut saw. Take care with your slowly until you are more practised at chisel
halfway. Don’t forget to allow for any lap. The sawing; the dovetail should fit straight from work. It is OK to under-cut slightly in the middle
first drawer to make is a simple one-tail the saw. of the board, but not at the outside faces.
dovetail. There are lots of rules for setting out You now want to mark the pins from the tail Finally, assemble your first through dovetail
dovetails but as an introduction just make up board (Pic.6). It is customary to rest the tail (Pic.12). Note that to get the lipping flush I
your own proportions. It is better if you have a board on a plane edge, but you could use any would need to house out the top of the side
dovetail gauge, but it is not essential. The dead true surface. Line the shoulders up with board of my prospective drawer.
proportions are 1:8 for hardwood and 1:6 for the edge of the pin board over tight by a whisker. Now cut off the tails and pins and practise it
softwood. As long as they match you could This will pull the joint up tight. Put a heavy all over and over again to give you lots of
use any slope from 1:5 to 1:8 so don’t be a weight on the board and mark with a pencil. sawing practice.
slave to formulae. Set the gauge to the thickness of the tail
The front and sides must be square (Pic.1); board and transfer the line to the pin board NEXT MONTH
you can see in the inset picture that I am using (Pics.8 & 9). On the pin board, drop Michael makes a lapped dovetail drawer
an old veneered drawer front. This is because I perpendiculars down to the gauge line (Pic.9). with more tails and pins, which is the
like recycling and someone knocked apart a Saw down the perpendiculars with a fine rip modern way of doing things.
chest-of-drawers and left it for me on their saw, then cut out the waste with a coping or
drive. I would have preferred it if they hadn’t
smashed it apart but they thought that they
were helping! Anyway, it serves to display some
of the issues found in drawer making. Note that
it has a top lipping which needs to be taken
account of when designing. Also it is seriously
bowed. This is what happens if you veneer on
one side of a board and not the other. The
veneer pulls the board into a cupped shape.
Anyway, I ripped it back to cut off the cupping,
but left the lipping for restoration practice.
Down on
the Prairie
Martin Aplin makes a hall table that was inspired
by the American Prairie Houses of Frank Lloyd Wright
“M
ake a small table in the Houses. We don’t have any such houses here was often referred to as ‘organic’.
style of Frank Lloyd in the UK or Europe, but in the New World While to find out all this was helpful it still
Wright please,” we (America, Australia, and New Zealand wasn’t the ‘steer’ we were looking for.
demanded of Martin, particularly) the Lloyd Wright Prairie House Fortunately it turns out Lloyd Wright was one
with typical (lack of) clarity. A quizzical style captured imaginations and would be of those architects who also designed the
expression leapt to his brow: “Who?” copied and modified over and over. interiors of his buildings, right down to the
For those in the dark, Frank Lloyd Wright There’s a hint of the Victorian villa in the furniture. And so, thankfully, there are plenty
was an early 20th century American architect, Prairie Houses, but they are typified more by of examples of Lloyd Wright-designed furniture
probably best known for designing the being long, low buildings with shallow, sloping to draw inspiration from. Like his houses, his
Guggenheim Museum in New York (completed, roofs, covered terraces and porches. They furniture also seems to be a matter of long and
after his death, in 1959). Only that modernist further differ from villas by being ostensibly low with shallow angles, clean in line, almost
style of design wasn’t what we had in mind. open plan – arguably the first open-plan like Modernist furniture, only made using
Instead we were referring to Lloyd Wright’s buildings. They can be differentiated from comfortable, warm timbers such as cherry.
much earlier work, namely domestic Modernist houses by virtue of their So there we have it. We wanted an
residences, that came to be known as Prairie comfortable, almost stately interiors. The style occasional table, probably in something that
▲ Pic.2 Edge-joint the boards for the top with a rubbed joint. Apply glue to ▲ Pic.3 Cramp the boards together, alternating each side to equalise the
one edge which then needs rubbing against the mating part cramping force
approximates cherry, echoing the styles seen One feature I have seen on some items of being a salmon pink when first cut but soon
in comfortable middle-class American houses Lloyd Wright furniture is what I refer to as the darkening to a nutty brown, a fascinating
in and around the 1920s. Martin, can you give collars, around the legs at mid rail level. They transformation. It also has an interesting and
us what we want? are often fitted around the legs at lower rail attractive grain and is quite easy to work,
level but I thought this broke the line too much though it can have a habit of splitting.
Architectural furniture so decided not to fit them. I have also added Cherry is quite expensive compared to say
I can only try! The nice thing about a small more construction detail to the article as an oak or ash, which I feel are too coarse-grained
console or hall table like this is that it fits in encouragement for readers to attempt the for such a light table as this. It is twice the
well with the modern home, matching up well table yourselves. It is quite straightforward but price of oak or ash but as only about 1.5 cubic
with contemporary furniture. You can see needs attention to detail, especially when feet is needed for the table, the price was
aspects of Lloyd Wright’s style in the strong fitting the leg decorative rails and collars. reasonable.
rectilinear lines of my table; the comparatively The problem with using cherry is that much
large overhang of the table-top and the Timber choice of the sawn stock is good on one face only,
shallow roof pitch-line is echoed in the angled I chose American cherry as was suggested with a fair amount of sapwood on the reverse.
rails fitted between the rails of the frame. earlier because of its warm look, the colour It is worth spending some time going through
▲ Pic.4 Having planed the legs to size, clamp them together and mark the ▲ Pic.5 The positions for the mortises were clearly scribed out
positions for the joints with a mortise gauge
▲ Pic.6 Although the mortises are quite small, the bulk of the timber ▲ Pic.7 Cut the mortises to finished sizes using chisels. The mortises will
was removed with a drill break into each other as they are cut into adjacent faces on the legs
▲ Pic.8 Having cut the joints, glue the front and rear frames together, ▲ Pic.9 Join the front and back rails together with end rails. Use a cramp
being careful to ensure squareness across the diagonal to keep the frame square
▲ Pic.10 Carefully sand the infill rails to length and to the correct angles.
Make sure the table is set square to the sanding disc
▲ Pic.11 The infill rails are inserted in pairs, and hold each other in place ▲ Pic.12 Prepare the segments around the legs on the disc sander using a
while the glue dries mitre fence to ensure the segments fit neatly together
▲ Pic.13 The buttons to hold the table top were prepared from square ▲ Pic.14 Having cut the step, part the button from the stock. Then drill a
sections of timber. A small pull saw makes a neat job of removing the waste countersunk screw hole through
▲ Pic.15 The buttons fit into mortises cut into the inside faces of the rails. ▲ Pic.16 Attach the lower shelf using four buttons
Eight are used to hold the table top
Have a go yourself
If you pop along to getwoodworking.com
you’ll be able to access a free download of a
clear drawing of Martin’s table replete with
dimensions and a cutting list. The drawing
gives the main dimensions for a well-
proportioned table but these could easily be
adjusted for a wider table.
GO AH
HEAD, GLUE ALL
POWERFUL BONDING SOLUTION
B
ack in GW192:18, I made a stable
door for my woodworking friend,
Paul, who lives in a one-up one-
down former weaver’s cottage in a
small Derbyshire mill town. Ann, his wife, was
so delighted with the result that Paul was
encouraged to tackle the other external door
in their cottage, which gave me the chance to
try out a design that I’d had in mind for some
time. ‘Why not make a conventional full-height
door,’ I suggested to Paul, ‘that opens inwards
as normal, but which has an outward opening
window light set into the top?’ Now, I’m sure
this isn’t a new idea, but the only place that
I’ve ever seen anything similar was at a tiny
preserved railway station, which featured a
small counter and hatch set into the door of
the ticket office — and you can’t buy one of
these from your local timber merchant!
As with the stable door project, the
appearance of the finished door needed to be
in keeping with the period of the cottage,
which is set within a conservation area. The
door in question, however, is at the rear of the
building and not on public view, which usually
means that the rules applied to the
appearance of replacement joinery are slightly
less stringent. Paul and I decided, then, that
the door would have bead-and-butt boarding
in the bottom part, and four panes of glass in
the opening top part; this pattern of glazing,
we thought, would match the appearance of
the vertical sliding sash windows. The good
Window on
news was that the overall size and thickness
of the door proved to be close to normal
standard at 762 x 1981 x 44mm (30 x 78 x
1¾in).
Timber choice
the world
and preparation
I’m a fairly irregular user of softwoods, most of
my output being in English or European
hardwoods. However, when making anything
in softwood, I generally buy unsorted grade
Swedish pine. This is normally only available
from a proper timber merchant in rough-sawn
full lengths. I’m fortunate, however, in that my
merchant also has unsorted grade boards that
Mike Jordan’s ledged & braced version
are planed all round, 22mm-thick, and
available in a wide range of widths.
still has the look of a stable door
The 500 x 225mm boards that I selected
were from a particularly good consignment Marking out for the boards were also formed at this point,
with a high resin content, which also made it The positions of the mortises in a framed taking care that the stiles remained properly
weightier. You can see from the ’photos that ledged and braced door are dictated by the paired up. Wedge room was cut from the
there is plenty of colour in the material. I am thickness of the boarding to be used. The outside of the mortises by hand.
happy to pay a little more for the best available thickness of the boarding and that of the rails The tenons were cut on the rails using the
grade of softwood; it works much more easily at the bottom and centre of the door must add cross-cut saw for the shoulders and the
and has far fewer knots. up to the thickness of the stiles. Bare faced bandsaw for the cheeks; any final trimming of
Buying 225mm-wide boards also means that tenons are used on these rails, and the mortise the tenon cheeks is best done with a rebate or
I can rip them down to give two 100 x 50mm only needs to be set back from the face by the badger plane. The top and bottom rails must
sections for the stiles of the door, allowing me boarding thickness. In this instance, only the have the haunchings cut before each of the
to remove the centre 25mm of the board bottom rail has a bare faced tenon since it’s joints is individually fitted. The assembly
where shakes and splits tend to be found, even only half of a framed ledged and braced door. wedges are best cut from the waste parts of the
in the best quality material. After cutting to With the mortise positions marked on the tenons. Finally, the shoulder lengths on the top
length and width, the stock was surface- stiles and squared around, the mortises and and centre rails were cut to the same size before
planed on one face and edge before being haunchings were cut on the machine using a the diminished shoulders on the outside of the
thicknessed (see cutting list). 12mm chisel. The stopped rebate and groove centre rail were marked out and cut by hand.
▲ Pic.1 Mike ripped down a 225mm-wide board ▲ Pic.2 The thickness of the boarding dictates ▲ Pic.3 ...which Mike cut on the mortiser using a
to make two 100 x 50mm sections for the stiles the positions of the mortises... 12mm chisel, saving his chisel and mallet...
Top rail 55
(machined)
▲ Pic.4 ...to cut the wedge from the outside of ▲ Pic.5 The wedges themselves were cut from
the mortises by hand the waste material
18
21
Boarding
8
▲ Pic.6 The stopped rebates and grooves for the ▲ Pic.7 The diminshed shoulder on the outside
boards were also made at this point centre rail...
60
Bottom rail
(before machining)
38
CUTTING LIST Sizes shown are planed dimensions (mm) ▲ Pic.9 The frame is now glued up, assembled,
and the wedges are driven home
Component Number Req’d Size Length
The door The door was now ready to be glued,
Stiles 2 44 x 95 Door height + 50 assembled, cramped up, and the wedges
driven home, before being left to set
Top rail 1 44 x 95 Exact door width overnight. Once dry, the door was sanded prior
Centre rail 1 44 x 95 Exact door width to fitting the boards, where I found that
Bottom rail 1 22 x 175 Exact door width softwood with its high resin content clogs up
the sanding discs in record time!
Boarding 6 Ex 22 x 100 par 1100
The window light Bead and butt boarding
The bead and butt boarding was made,
Stiles and top rail 3 55 x 38
sanded, and fitted to the bottom part of the
Bottom rail 1 60 x 38
42 GW294
Glazing bars July 2015 www.getwoodworking.com
2 21 x 38
Cottage door
▲ Pic.10 The bead and butt boarding is secured ▲ Pic.11 After planing and moulding the stiles ▲ Pic.12 ...ready for mortising, a task that Mike
with 38mm oval nails and rails, the stiles are marked... carried out on, well...the mortising machine!
▲ Pic.13 More machinery, this time to cut the ▲ Pic.14 ...followed by the cheeks ▲ Pic.15 A simple mitre block is used to guide
tenon shoulders on the rails... the chisel...
▲ Pic.16 ...when cutting the ovolo profile on the ▲ Pic.17 The job is finished with a short scribing ▲ Pic.18 ...produces the correctly shaped rebate for
window rails cut, which... the moulding on the stiles
▲ Pic.19 The rails are offered up to the stiles, ▲ Pic.20 ...and the moulding cut to create... ▲ Pic.21 ...a flat area ready to receive the square
which are marked... shoulder of the rail
door using 38mm (1½in) oval nails punched that’s to say, it would overlap the opening by tenoned; the tenon shoulders were then
below the surface ready for filling. The boards, 8mm all round and stand 12mm proud of the finished square and level. With this done, it
which had been left slightly over-length, were face of the door. As a concession to the period was a simple task to mitre the end of the
then trimmed to size, and the horns on the top of the house, the mouldings on the light were moulding and use the cut shape to guide the
and bottom of the door were also cut away. I to be finished with an ovolo profile, and then gouge, cutting a short scribe. The portion of
was then able to measure the aperture in the jointed by scribing them by hand. This may be the moulding next to the mortise is then cut
top of the door and start the opening light. a rather old-fashioned method, but it’s a quick flat to take the square shoulder. The glazing
and simple one, once you’ve made a mitre bars, meanwhile, are joined using a halving
The opening light block to guide your chisel. joint, which obviously meant relieving the
I had already decided that the opening light To start, the stiles and rails were planed up upper bar to receive the profile of the
would be made like a storm-proof window — and moulded before being mortised and lower bar.
PL305 SET
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Photographs by Petr Krecji and Jon Cardwell
Centrefold
Laura Ellen Bacon and Sebastian Cox The weaving is intricate How Laura’s shoulders must have ached
Problems
& solutions Assembly posed many problems to be solved The build called for many mortise & tenons
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War of
the Worlds
How do you choose between three
of the best young furniture makers
in the UK? Andrea Hargreaves
witnessed the final nerve-wracking
selection battle for August’s
WorldSkills competition in Brazil A painter & decorator competes
for his place in Brazil
Cleaning up the inlaid veneer panel of mahogany Sam fits one of the two gull-wing doors
and burr walnut
Under pressure, Steve checks the daunting list of …before fixing the Soss hinges on one of the
marking criteria… gull-wing doors
E
dward (Woody) Harringman, Sam the lateral slide of his drawer. In the final 60
Brister and Steve Pickton had been seconds Sam was checking and rechecking the
building a fiendishly complicated dimensions of his piece, prepared to shave off
cabinet on tapered legs, with sliding the tiniest tad if necessary, Woody was paying
drawer, for nearly 22 hours over 3½ days particular attention to the taper on the legs,
when their trainer, Christian Notley, began and then they were into the final 10-second
the countdown that would determine who countdown, still sanding with a mix of fury and
would go to Brazil to represent the UK and extreme care to achieve absolute perfection.
who would be left behind. The final whistle blew. To hand claps all
With 10 minutes to go Steve was cutting a round they wiped their sweaty faces with their
notch for a handle on the gull-winged top, with smart UK Squad shirts and rictus frowns of
four minutes to go he was fitting the handle, concentration broke into grins of relief. It was
while Sam was making minute adjustments to all over. After months and months of training
A range of accessories Quick-release system for Battery charge indicator Outstanding torque range
available to maximize changing bits, chucks and permanently displays its for a wide array of
the drilling capabilities heads in seconds charge. applications
Call NMA or visit our website to find your nearest Mafell stockist.
Man
of
letters
Edward Hopkins
I
blame David. He pushed me into the deep plans, drew up a cutting list and took the
end more than once. “They can because timber to David Oldfield, a master maker who,
The cradle was my first major piece of furniture and the only reproduction piece I have made. I think life
is too short for copies, but David and Caroline live in a Tudor farmhouse that they have restored, so this
was most appropriate. I’m not sure what those pawns are doing as finials – they might be acorns
be careful as the hardness of different fibres the grooves would intersect, but by keeping
varies and the lines can go awry. I did think, their sides to 45°, they sorted themselves out.
years ago, that a V-shaped gouge (a veining The horizontal lines were too thin to cut with
chisel?) would cut the strokes in one swoop, a gouge. I had to go straight in with a chisel,
but however I’ve ground it and honed it, I just almost on the final line. In the finished piece,
cannot get on with it. depending on the light, they are hardly visible.
I aimed for a 45° cut on all lines. Any steeper The serifs punctuate the lines and maintain
and the gouge would mark the opposing slope. readability. This delicacy adds refinement to
There are one or two places (like the top of the the lettering.
A) where it wasn’t immediately apparent how I fancy carving some more lettering but
Lettering is easier
now. Half the job
used to be
draughtsmanship
and setting out.
Now computers
Repro it may be, but with no intent to deceive offer dozens of fonts
in any size you like. I
in my hallway right now. It is heavy, dense and chose Perpetua
beautifully marked. It should be good. Titling MT, printed
I must say at the outset that I am no great the words on three
carver. I’ve dabbled with it from time to time sheets of paper,
but I don’t pretend to be an expert. This, I hope then folded, cut and
you’ll find encouraging. If I can make a fist of it, taped them
anyone can. together
I laid double-sided tape on the back of the lettering and pressed it down
firmly. The tape gripped well and, at the end of play, could be peeled away
Spacing and positioning is important. Nothing should snag the eye leaving no residue
A chisel is necessary for the inside of the O. You might imagine that the O is
the hardest letter to carve, but not so. Go round and round, inside and out,
maintaining 45° and restraint, and the letter develops by itself. A light
touch is needed with the chisel lest it mark the valley. Edward used a Gouging from either side, not worrying too much about the valley bottom.
wider, flatter gouge to help clean the outer cut Edging back to the lines but keeping clear of the serifs
Establishing the 45° slope of the serif. Moving backwards with the chisel,
achieving the correct angle Establishing the point where the three slopes intersect
SPECIFICATION
wheel diameter .................. 450 mm
cutting width ..................... 420 mm
cutting height .................... 280 mm
motor power ........................ 1.5hp
dimension ............. 810 x 660 x 1910
£1742 plus vat (total £1994 inclusive)
Unit 15, Pier Approach Road Industrial Estate, Gillingham, Kent ME7 1RZ
tel: 01634 572625 • www.acm-uk.com
The Rocking Horse Shop
Make a Unique Traditional Rocking Horse, 17 Superb Designs
Carving without
bounds
Using minuscule tools called
ulis, the Jangid family from
Rajasthan is carving incredibly
intricate miniatures that
celebrate deities and animals
Mohit Janjid with one of his super-miniatures
I
n the beautiful city of Jaipur a father and Rohit adds: “I like miniature work in my art, very famous craft in Rajasthan. Different kinds of
two sons are carving a living for and we are the only ones who make these kind wood are used for carving depending upon the
themselves in walnut, rosewood, ebony, of carving products with scenes in flipped lids. size and shape of the final product. First of all
teak and sandalwood, working these All scenes have their own story. And I like it the wood is cut into regular sizes and a freehand
woods into miniatures drawn from history, when people are surprised when I show them drawing is made with a pencil on the wood
religion, wildlife and day-to-day living and my work and then I open lids for scenes surface, then the outline of the designs is made
using traditional craft techniques. because they don’t expect this. with the help of a chisel, and fine carving is done
For Mahesh Jangid and his sons Mohit and “We work at home so definitely I will teach with minute tools called ulis. This minute
Rohit it is what they were born to do, to follow this work to my future children, and then if carving involves engraving of the wood on the
the family’s woodcarving heritage. Mahesh they want to go with any other profession then contours of the design with the utmost care.”
was learning to woodcarve at his grandfather’s I will support them. Because I also had these And if even the uli is unsuitable for a
side at the age of seven and by the time he was choices but I picked this carving work for my particular task? Then the trio makes their own
24 had been awarded a national carving prize life. Because according to me if we force tools, using small iron sticks. It’s ingenious
for a hand fan. He also created what is claimed anyone to do any work he can’t be the best in solutions like this that not only keep ancient
to be the smallest jointless chain from a solid that work, so it’s better that I will teach them crafts alive but build upon them.
piece of sandalwood. The chain is 10ft long, and then they can continue this work, but if
has 496 links and weighs 12g. they want otherwise then I will always will be Contact information
His work is celebrated throughout India and there for them.” For more information go to:
has also been seen at exhibitions in Europe, the And what does Mahesh say? “I always enjoy www.mrhandicrafts.com,
Middle East and the Far East. all my carving work but the carving on the call Rohit on +918769599896
Rajasthani doll is my most favourite, because or write to:
These deities were carved from Kadam wood, this we are Rajasthani and this piece shows the E -216 Ram Nager, near water tank,
tree featuring in Indian mythology and religion story of Rajasthani freedom fighters. And it also Sodala, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India , 302019.
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A
fter Graham Carter has greeted me,
Noah is delighted by his father’s and his wife Alice has gone to the
Puss in Boots puppet kitchen to put the kettle on, he
ushers me into the sitting room of his
East Sussex home and introduces me to their
son Noah. As you might expect with a 3-year-old
in the house, there are toys on the floor, but not
the usual garish plastic variety: Noah is playing
with wooden bricks, from which the faces of
imaginatively painted animals can be built. It’s
not that the Carters are in any way precious;
it’s just, says Graham, that he prefers the
organic material to the manmade.
Originally from Gloucestershire, he now has a
studio in Hove and has been earning his living
from art for the past 20 years, in that time
developing several different styles since training
at Cheltenham, Brighton and St Martin’s. He
left the London college after two years of the
course because he realised that he knew what
he wanted to do and wanted to start hitting the
world with it. So, with some friends from
Brighton who wanted to do the same thing,
they set up an illustration collective; although
they were working from home at the time they
shared expenses like the cost of exhibitions. “I
was doing temping jobs to pay the bills,” he
recalls. “I started to get a good reaction from
things. I’d been in London for two or three years
when I got a commission from Saatchi &
Adventures
Saatchi. I had been in the right place at the
right time – my flatmate’s girlfriend was
working there.” They liked his cartoon-style
presentation, which had to be whipped up in a
day or two, and as a result he won
in Toyland
advertisement work and got himself an agent.
But, he agrees, he was following his head rather
than his heart. “We were warned about that at
uni, but you have pound signs before your eyes,
then after three years you say ‘is that what I
want to do?’ So I left London after four years.
The group was still going well but I left because
Graham Carter’s work, though never I wanted to do my own thing. I moved back to
Gloucester where I met Alice. I’d lived in
conventional, was two-dimensional Brighton before so we upped sticks. Alice is a
creative person who pushed me to do things.”
until he discovered the joys of wood. Turning point
Andrea Hargreaves meets him He learnt how to screenprint and the turning
point came in 2007 when they showed his
Detail from Arctic Fox, one of the first of his 3D pieces to sell at his
Graham got into laser-cut designs with pieces like New Yokyo Airbug successsful Brighton Festival show
Bee Revival depicts the lifecycle of the honey bee Detail from Bug Lady
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1-4 July, London
show
Email: andrea.hargreaves@mytimemedia.com
Jordan’s frame ls
l Build: Mike
lettering chise
gets out his lery
rd Hopkins his wife’s jewel
l Carve: Edwa es a stand for
09:09
12/06/2015
l Turn: Les
Thorne creat
5.indd 1
01 GW294ah
The Shed concept was first realised in this for Living Well and Ageing Well in Surrey, 2014.
country by Age Concern, Cheshire in 2009. Now Not bad for their first year of operation, and a real
there are over 80 Sheds open in the UK, with recognition for the founders, their foresight and
many others planned. While many of them are meticulous preparation.
focused on woodworking, the specific task is
selected by the men involved. We are all finding In the community
ways of working alongside others towards a An important function of the current year’s
chosen purpose – helping, co-operating, sharing, activities is to participate at the Community Rural
discussing and offering additional materials. For Activities Day. The exact nature of our participation
some it could be a 3-hour tea break, while others has yet to be finalised – democracy in action! – but
feel a need to create something in a well-designed last year the members prepared components for
facility. We’ve got the space and equipment to do youngsters to assemble into models which they
things most men can’t do in their homes. And could take home. A possible introduction to
usually, a man working in his shed is all alone, and woodworking as a hobby or career? Who knows,
even family members tend to leave them to it, but it is certainly helpful in triggering local support,
reluctant to disturb the creative process or scared materials to be recycled, or tools ready for re-use
of the tools and machinery they might encounter. after their owner lost interest in using them.
The movement began in Australia when men The organisers are keen to expand activities,
realised they could come together around and perhaps to include young men, veterans and/
practical tasks on a regular basis, if they had a or unemployed, who could gain skills, experience
designated place where tools and work-in-process and self-confidence. The movement has much
could be stored. Its success indicates what can be potential.
done to alleviate much of the feeling of social Peter Benson, by email
isolation which can occur later in life, as one loses
a working role, status, workmates and long-time How great it would be to have this project rolled
partner. Research by Age UK shows social isolation out all over the UK, so there is a Shed where men
can affect health and quality of life, with drinking – and women – can go to enjoy woodwork in the
problems, smoking and over-eating all connected company of others, and with shared machines.
to them. Peter refers readers to www.bettershedthandead
Making their own contribution, the Ash Shed and remarks that the first half is excellent.
last year saw them receive a well-deserved Award Andrea Hargreaves
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House andINGarden
ASSOCIATION WITH
Toolsed
you’ll ne, sander,
Router, jigsaw
drillstand
Going potty
Phil Davy’s tray is made from recycled
During a major clear out last year I
unearthed an old plans chest that had
oak which will now have a new life in definitely seen better days. Although
made from oak, it had been exposed to the
sufficient capacity for transferring plants to diameter plastic pot in each compartment. snug fit it’s best to rout the housings first,
the garden or holding a few small tools. If you don’t enjoy cutting dovetails this then thickness the divider material so this is a
Slats for the base mean drainage from damp project is ideal for finger jointing the corners. A sliding fit. That way you’re thicknessing to
plants or soil should not be a problem, though dedicated finger-jointing router jig makes the match the router bit diameter exactly.
these could be fitted closer together to make a technique straightforward, though if you have Stop the housings 5mm below the top
multi-purpose tray. Great for the home office a decent router table, a sliding fence and edges of the tray. The handle and dividers are
or kitchen, though you may want to reduce sacrificial board will still make it feasible. cross-halved so they slot together. Use brass
overall size for indoor use, or adjust the divider Dividers and handle fit into housings a third or copper pins to secure them to the tray
spacings. As it is, you can just fit a 76mm- the thickness of the outer tray timber. To get a sides, though pre-drill holes first.
1 When recycling timber always remove 2 Inspect all surfaces closely for defects 3 True up face edge of side and end pieces
old screws or nails first. If rusted, plan saw cuts and cut off damaged ends. Thickness clean with bench plane and shooting board. Check
to avoid defect timber to 10mm with straightedge
4 Trim ends square on shooting board. 5 Mark each tray component for width 6 Saw sides and ends 2mm over-length for
Cramp pieces together, face edge down, and and cramp together. Place on flat surface and trimming joints later. Scribe shoulder lines for
plane to width plane to width dovetails with marking knife
Summer project
Takes: one weekend OAK GARDEN TRAY
7 Space dovetails to allow for 5mm rebate 8 Mark out tails with sliding bevel set at 9 Set gauge to 5mm and mark rebate for
at lower edge. Cramp boards together and 1:8 angle (for hardwood). Alternatively, use bottom slats. Pencil in waste to be removed
square lines across dovetail marker gauge between tails
10 Secure both tail boards tightly in 11 Remove waste between tails with 12 Cramp square timber block along
vice at an angle. Cut down sides of tails coping saw, keeping blade teeth clear of shoulder line to keep chisel upright when paring
with dovetail saw shoulder line back between tails
13 Cramp pin board in vice and lay tail 14 Pencil in waste between pins. Saw 15 Remove waste with coping saw as
piece across horizontally. Carefully mark out down sides of pins to form sockets, keeping the before. Pare back to shoulder line with
pins from cut tails blade level bevel-edge chisel
16 Holding chisel at correct angle, trim 17 Create 5mm-deep rebate along bottom 18 Cramp parts together and cut 3mm-
sides of pins (sockets) as necessary. Check joints edges for slats. Cut this on router table for deep housings for dividers. Run router against
fit, and adjust accuracy guide batten
19 Housings are stopped 5mm below top 20 Clean up inner surfaces and check for fit. 21 Once glue has dried, trim protruding
edges. Square rounded ends neatly with chisel Glue and cramp up tray, checking for square dovetails flush with finely set block plane
22 If required, glue boards together to 23 Draw handle cutout with flexible curve 24 Mark hole centres and cramp board to
achieve sufficient width for carrying handle. or arched steel rule. Allow enough width for backing material. Bore ends of cutout with
Thickness when dry sanding drum 25mm flat bit
25 Remove remaining waste between 26 Clean up cutout with 25mm sanding 27 Handle and dividers are slotted
holes with jigsaw. Use this for sawing tapered drum or rasp and file. Smooth edges with together. Mark out halving joints and carefully
edges of handle abrasives cut away waste
28 Thickness slats to 24 x 5mm and saw 29 Rout small decorative chamfer along 30 Brush on two coats of finishing oil,
to length. These can be pinned or screwed edges of tray and dividers. Sand with 180grit wiping off after a few minutes. Alternatively,
into rebates abrasive add wax if for indoor use
Foxy fixed
Its 18V…
Electronic braking The pads are secured with hook & loop fixings… …and several discs and sheets are supplied
Instead of variable speed, the Skil has two
fixed speeds (9500 and 13,000opm), activated
by the 3-way power slider button. This works
well and I found it more effective than relying
on a speed dial, which invariably gets left set
at maximum. You can instantly switch
between speeds, which arguably is all you
need. Electronic braking means the tool
comes to a standstill quickly. With the
125mm- diameter pad fitted you have a fairly
efficient sander for those larger flat surfaces.
Although this is not a true random orbit
mechanism – there are inevitable swirls left on The fixed speeds are activated by a 3-way The 125mm pad copes with larger flat surfaces
the surface – it’s still pretty effective. slider button
Motor rating is 250W, while cable length is
2.8m. Weighing 1.3kg, this is a fairly tip out the contents. No adaptor is provided certainly an advantage. Don’t forget that the
lightweight tool, so not too tiring for vertical for hooking up a vacuum extractor, though Fox is not a professional power tool, so it can’t
or overhead work. There’s plenty of soft-grip this is an extra accessory. be expected to work for extended periods
rubber where it’s needed, adding to the Fox’s without overheating.
ergonomic credentials.
Dust collection is via a rigid plastic box Conclusion
which is a push-fit at the back of the tool. Sanding performance was better than Typical price: £69.99
Inside appears to be a fabric filter, though you expected and it’s a comfortable tool to Made in: China
can’t access this. Once the box is full you just operate. Having the disc sander option is Web: www.skileurope.com
® benchdog.eu
• Removable,
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Turning
Gem of a design
When Les Thorne
was asked to turn
a necklace stand
he knew it would
have to hold other
items too…
Y
ou must all think that ‘management’s’
dressing table would be full by now,
being home to all sorts of handy
wooden turned items of treen, but
no, the request for a necklace stand came in
after seeing one made from wire at a shop.
I don’t often have to design things from
scratch because I can normally find something
similar in books or on the net, but I struggled
to find something that I liked. A couple of
issues needed to be overcome while designing
the piece. It needed to be of a height that
allows longer items of jewellery to be hung;
this means the base would have to be heavy
enough and wide enough to stop it toppling
over even when there was too much hung on
one side.
The other thing that I was requested was
somewhere from which to hang bracelets. This
meant that another pair of arms was needed
lower down. The idea of making the base into a
bowl was mine, allowing rings, earrings and
brooches to be placed into it.
I think that it’s really important to make this
type of work stylish and elegant because too
chunky a design would look terrible on a
dressing table, and I hope I have got the
balance of this piece just right. Feel free to copy
it and do let me see your finished pieces.
▲ Pic.1 A great piece of wood, this yew plank ▲ Pic.2 Instead of cutting the blank for the base ▲ Pic.3 One of the problems with yew is the
had been hanging around for a long time. There round he has cut the piece into a octagon on the appearance of faults like this. Silver shake
are some defects in it but Les should be able to bandsaw. This saves wearing the set on your appears naturally in the timber and is very
work round them bandsaw blade unevenly difficult to fix, so is best turned away
▲ Pic.4 The shallow base means that Les has to ▲ Pic.5 True up the base with the bowl gouge. ▲ Pic.6 Make the bottom flat or slightly
use a spacer block to shorten the screw chuck. Keep the bevel pointing in the direction of the concaved. A pull cut with the gouge or a light
He could also have glued it onto a wooden cut and keep the flute pointing at 10 o’clock to cut with a scraper is perfect, sliding your hand
faceplate achieve the best finish along the toolrest to guide the tool
▲ Pic.7 Les is marking the diameter of the ▲ Pic.8 The recess depth is 3mm, allowing the ▲ Pic.9 Shape the base with a pull cut with the
chucking recess on the bottom. The left-hand hole to be plugged with hardboard before the gouge, this being the quickest way to remove
point makes a scratch that will line up with the baize is applied. The chuck’s sharp dovetail jaws timber. If the flute of the tool is too shut you will
mark on the right when correctly aligned will grip the shallow hole blunt the tool quickly
▲ Pic.10 Any detailing such as this small fillet is ▲ Pic.11 The edge bead is rolled over using the ▲ Pic.12 Before doing the shaping on the top,
cut with a skew used in scraping mode. The tool wing of the gouge. The beads on a cross-grain drill a 30mm stem hole with a saw-tooth bit.
is flat on the rest and gently pushed into the piece like this are turned the opposite way to Slow the lathe down to about 400rpm when
wood spindle work doing this
▲ Pic.13 Work the gouge in from the centre and ▲ Pic.14 He has swapped to the small Signature ▲ Pic.15 The finish left by this tool is perfect.
then down from the edge. This is because Les gouge because the bevel of this tool will fit When turning yew you really have to be careful
decided to make a small bowl on the base perfectly in the tight curve on the edge of about rubbing too much bevel as you can end up
the base with ridges on the wood
▲ Pic.16 When sanding the shape don’t round ▲ Pic.17 The stem is mounted between centres ▲ Pic.18 Les has now marked on the fixed areas,
over the edges. The main benefit of hand turning using a small Stebcentre. The spigot on the like the overall length and where the small
is that you can achieve really crisp edges that bottom has to be a really tight fit so use Verniers lower arms come out
cannot be done on most automatic lathes to gauge the right diameter
▲ Pic.19 The 10mm skew is used for all the V ▲ Pic.20 The small gouge is used for cutting the ▲ Pic.21 When you have a large cove like this
cuts as it achieves really sharp deep grooves. Be coves. The small bevel will only put a small you can break it up with a bead in the middle. As
careful about thinning the work down too much amount of pressure onto the timber. A long stem the piece gets thin you can support the spindle
too quickly can be built up with a series of these shapes with your finger as you are turning
▲ Pic.22 When turning coves keep the tool ▲ Pic.23 Les really likes these tight little details. ▲ Pic.24 The flat left in the shaft is for the arms
handle tucked into your body. As you cut this Turning such narrow coves you will have to be to come out of. I thought about putting a cove
shape make your body go through to the right as careful not to catch the right-hand side when here and in hindsight I should have – Mark II will
you slide the tool through the cut cutting the left and vice versa have one
▲ Pic.25 Les is using the indexing on his lathe ▲ Pic.26 He is turning the top spigot down to ▲ Pic.27 The small gouge is used to blend a cove
as well as a purpose-made drilling jig. He could 10mm to fit into the top cross member. It can be into the spigot. This tends to hide the hole when
have done it carefully freehand or using the worth taking a little tailstock pressure off at this it’s all glued together. Don’t be afraid of getting
banjo instead of the toolrest point to prevent splitting right up next to the centre
▲ Pic.28 The small arms are mounted between ▲ Pic.29 The bead is turned next to the drive ▲ Pic.30 Les is happy with both of them. A good
centres and roughed round to about 20mm. Turn centre. The 10mm skew is used, this tool match has been achieved by marking out and
the spigot on one end and take the waste down allowing a good finish and only a little of the top measuring. The little gun barrel design on the
at the headstock end to be finished by hand right of the bead is particularly pleasing
▲ Pic.31 The top cross member is mounted up ▲ Pic.32 Cut a series of coves along the length, ▲ Pic.33 He decided to finish the ends in a
last. The dark area in the centre will be where working from the tailstock end towards the mushroom-top shape. You can take down the
the hole will be drilled. He marked out a series headstock. Not only do they look decorative but shape just leaving a few millimetres of timber
of coves by eye they will also stop the jewellery falling off remaining
▲ Pic.34 Once it’s all glued together you can put ▲ Pic.35 For a glossy finish Les omits sanding
baize on the bottom. This is Les’s new circle sealer on this dense timber, and applies lacquer
cutter, the benefit of which is that it doesn’t followed by burnishing cream when the lacquer
make a hole in the middle is dry
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LAPPED DOVETAILS
In this latest instalment of his foundation
course Michael Huntley pulls out all the stops
– pardon the pun – to show you how to make
lapped dovetails, the kind that are usually
found on drawers, and details their setting
out and cutting
PLUS...
Dave Roberts offers his unique take on wood-
working problems and solutions, Andy King
scrutinises the latest tools, Phil Davy has a
weekend Around the House make and Les
Thorne lets his lathe do the work
Finishing Touch
Origin
of Michael Huntley’s
locks history of locks
Two early 18th-century steel locks; the one on the left has a link plate
A George IV lock with cover plate removed to A bureau lock and a small box lock A tumbler lock similar to a Bramah lock
show levers and spring
C3 31 Comfort
COMBINATION
MACHINE +
STARTER-SET
• 4.0 HP (3.0 kW) motor
• Format sliding table 2000 mm
• 1100 mm outrigger table
• Precision mitre index system
• 1300 mm crosscut fence for outrigger table
• Planer fence tilts from 90° to 45°
• Surface planer table length 1400 mm
• Planing width 310 mm
• Remarkably user friendly
• Allows rapid retooling
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