Under the Guidance of:

Ø Mrs. Renjini
Submitted by:

Ø Ayushi Srivastava
Ø Gaurav Kriplani
Ø Mukund Verma
Ø Prerna Sen

Masters of Fashion
Management Sem-2

“Spreading of Fabric in a Garment Industry”

Dated: 25-06-2020

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 Table of Content

S.No Topic Page No.

(i) Declaration 3

(ii) Acknowledgement 4

1 Introduction 5

2 Relevance of Spreading in a Garment manufacturing unit 5

3 The Spreading Process 5

4 Basic before we start 6

5 Description of the process and the machines used in 6

spreading

5.1 Types of Spreads 6

5.2 Parts of a Spreading machine 6

5.3 Methods of Spreading 7

5.4 Modes of Spreading 7-8

6 Evaluation of Spreading cost 9

7 Advancements 9

8 Conclusion 9

9 References 10

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 DECLARATION

We, the undersigned, students of the MFM department hereby declare that this jury project
entitled, “Spreading” for the subject -Apparel production techniques submitted by us to
the college National Institute of Fashion technology, Bengaluru under the guidance of Ms.
Renjini .G , is our original work and is based on the material collected by us.
The Report submitted is our work and the understanding of the Spreading department of
Garment industry has been taken by few sources mentioned in the reference page.

Ø Ayushi Srivastava

Ø Gaurav Kriplani

Ø Mukund Verma

Ø Prerna Sen

[MASTERS OF FASHION MANAGEMENT

BATCH 2019-2021]

Date: June 25, 2020

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

A successful Project is the result of team work and co-ordination that includes not only the
group of developers who put forth the ideas, logic and efforts but also those who guide
them. So, at the completion of the project, we feel obliged to extent gratitude towards all
those who made valuable contributions throughout the project. We are thankful for all the
knowledge, guidance, and support imparted by, Ms. Renjini .G , (Project guide).

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1. Introduction

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on

a spreading table ,cutting table or specially designed surface in
preparation for the cutting process

Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric into

long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of Figure 1: Proper spreading results
garment. A Spread or lay is the total amount of fabric prepared in proper marking and cutting
for a single marker

2. Relevance of Spreading in a Garment manufacturing unit

A spreading converts huge length of fabric into piles of required length of fabric further on this the marker
planning is done and further cutting of the pieces takes place which is later assembled into a garment

Objectives or requirements of fabric Spreading process

1 Shade sorting of fabric rolls 5 Elimination of fabric faults
2 Ply direction and lay stability 6 Fabric control during spreading
3 Alignment of piles 7 Avoidance of distortion in the spread
4 Correct ply tension 8 Elimination of static electricity, fusion
and tight selvedge in cutting

3. The Spreading Process

Spreading is a preparatory operation for cutting. The main aim of the spreading process is to lay the several
fabric plies essential for the production process to the marker length without any tension on the fabric. The
lay height depends on order size, fabric characteristic, capacity of the spreader, cutting method and
equipment used. The preference of mode of spreading will influence the cost of spreading as well as
finished garment quality. The composition of each spread, i.e. the number of plies of each colour is obtained
from the cut order plan.

Fabric Roll
•After the weaving process is done is enters the garment manufacturing unit these fabrics are
either wound on the spreader machines beam ,or the fabric beam is trasferred on the the
spreading machine ,which further leads to spreading. Nature of fabric packages in which it
is delivered to spreading department : Open fabric -rolled, Tubular knitted fabric ,Folded
fabric -rolled and plaited,Plaited folded fabric,Velvet-hanging (to prevent pile from
becoming curshed)

Spreader Machine with fabric beam

There are 3 types of spreading machine :
•Manual spreading machine
•Semi autotmatic spreading machine
•Fully automatic spreading machine

Spreading Modes
Depending on the type of fabric e.g : Cotton , Wool, velvet,corduroy,plush,silk etc or there is
a printed fabric with different symmetrical and asymmetrical designs , the spreading modes are
decided accordingly and the spreading modeas are : Nap one way & face one way spreading
,Nap either way & face to face spreading,Nap one-way face to face spreading, Nap either
way & face one way spreading

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4. Basics before we start – Before we start with spreading of fabric with the
Number of plies depends
help of the machines and form a lay ,a perfect planning of the lay is done according on:
to the order quantity as per the sizes of the garment required by the buyer so that 1. Capacity of the
there is minimum wastage of the fabric and maximum utilisation of it . cutting machine,
2. Volume of
Fabric layer n or ply n production,
n 3. Type of fabric itself
Fabric Lay or Lay (rough or slippery) and
Fabric layer 2 or ply 2 4. Thickness of fabric.
n
Fabric layer 1 or ply 1
n
5. Description of the process and the machines used in spreading

Before the spreading is carried out the order is kept in mind and the spreading is planned out as per the order
and as per the machines used in that particular industry.

5.1 Types of Spreads – 3 types

Example order 1. : An order of 150 pants, 50 medium(M) sizes and Right

100 small(S) sizes.
Left
Solution: For this kind of an order Stepped spreads (section
spreads) type of spread is done– In this method; the spread is
normally built like small steps, with all the fabric plies in a step. It is
commonly used when the order needs to cut the imbalance between
the quantities to be cut; now the 100 small sizes will be cut from the
right side and the 50 medium pieces shall be cut from the left,
Figure 2: Stepped Spread
therefore reduces the waste generation.

Similarly there is a single ply spread (Flat spread) ,it consists of only one layer of fabric , and multi ply
spread(Flat Spread) the number of plies in a spread may range from 1 to 300 , these are not in sections
rather they are flat.

Figure 3: Flat spread

5.2 Parts of a spreading machine

Spreading Equipment :

1. Spreading surfaces: pin, vacuum & air

flotation tables

2. Spreading machines- Manual &

automatic

3. Fabric control devices-tension &

position control devices and width
indicator

4. Ends treatment devices- End catcher

and folding device & End catcher and
knife box Figure 4 : Parts of an automatic spreading m/c

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 5.3 Methods of Spreading
a) Manual method:
It does not fulfill the basic requirements.

• Fabric is laid completely by hand.

• With the help of mechanical assistance as roll cutter.
• With the help of manually operated spread truck.
• This is the most extensively used for small production because of cheap labor cost and availability
of workers

An example of Manual Spreading m/c from industry

Name of Properties Brand
M/C
SABER Spreading rolls of EASTMAN
Figure 5: SABER SELECT ,,Manual spreading machine SELECT material with weights
https://www.directindustry.com/ upto 500 to 800 lbs

b) Mechanical method:
It is possible to fulfil the basic requirements with mechanical method.

• Semi Automatic spreading: Semi automatic machine is working almost similar to Hand process with
spreading track process because this methods working technique and working prouder are same but this
process are working by electric motor.

An example of Semi-Automatic Spreading m/c from industry

Name of M/C Properties Brand
UL-4 Touch screen , layer counter REXEL
Figure 6: UL-4 ,Semi automatic spreading machine ,smooth air flow, cradle lowering
https://www.directindustry.com/ system for easy loading, manual
movement of table

• Fully Automatic spreading: Fully automatic machine is upgrade version of Semi Automatic. This
machine has the all of quality which is included in Semi Automatic.

An example of Automatic Spreading m/c from industry

Name of Properties Brand
M/C
P-SPR2 Improved Cost-Performance and User- SHIMA
Friendliness Fabric width: SEIKI
1,600mm/1,800mm/2,000mm,fabric
thickness: 80mm ,roll diameter: 400mm
Figure 7: P-SPR2 ,Automatic spreading machine
https://www.directindustry.com/

5.4 Modes of Spreading

Depending on the pattern and other properties, a fabric may be spread in different ways and they are
classified by three factors:
1. The linear factor of the fabric (material)
2. The direction of the fabric of the design surface with respect to the cutting table
3. The direction of the design or nap on the fabric with respect to the ends of the fabric
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1. Nap one way & face one way spreading
All the plies are spread with their face side up and in one direction. After a ply is laid, it is cut from the
fabric roll across its width. This is the most commonly used spreading mode. This is used in directional and
asymmetrical fabrics

Figure 8: Nap one way and face one way

2. Nap either way & face to face spreading

The fabric is spread in both directions. At the end of each ply, the fabric is folded and spreading continues in
the opposite direction. ‘Zig-zag’ spreading may be used for different fabrics. It does not require the fabric
plies to be cut, thus saving time. It is also possible to save material. No need of deadheading in this and can
be used in non-directional fabric

Figure 9: Nap either way & face to face

3. Nap one-way face to face spreading

The first material ply is spread with its face side up. The ply is laid and then cut from the fabric roll across
its width. After or during the ‘dead heading’ procedure, the fabric roll is turned through 180° and the next
ply is spread in the same direction with its face side down .This spreading mode is used for materials with a
short-cut pile (velvet, corduroy, plush, artificial fur) to prevent the plies from slipping during the
spreading and cutting processes

Figure 10: Nap one way face to face

4. Nap either way & face one way spreading

All the plies are spread with their face side down in a single direction . After a ply is laid, it is cut from the
fabric roll across its width. This spreading mode is used for knitted fabrics where the cut edges will roll. It
is difficult to fix the ply ends if face side up spreading is used

Figure 11: Nap either way & face one way

This spreading mode cannot be used in the following situations:

• Where a style has asymmetrical components and the pattern pieces in a marker are placed with their
face side up;
• Where the rejection of fabric faults has to be carried out during the spreading process.

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6. Evaluation of Spreading Cost

The two cost determinations related to spreading are

• The labour cost for the time to spread
• The cost of fabric engaged in the spreading of garments as well as the fabric cost of ends and
damages

Spreading labour cost:

Labour cost is determined by the following formula:

Labour cost per hour x Spreading time

Spreading labour cost = ----------------------------------------------------------------
Garments/marker
Spreading and deadheading:
While the spreader is deadheading (reverse movement without spreading the fabric) as in the F/O/W–
N/O/W and F/O/W–N/O/W , the spreading cost will be double the cost of the F/F spreading mode. As the
labour time is directly influencing the spreading cost and quality

The cost of ends and damages:

The cost of ends and damages is given by the following formula:

Yards lost to damages and ends x Fabric cost per yard

Cost of damages and ends = ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Garments/marker

7. Advancements

Advancements in Spreading Machines

1 Tensioning device- detect variations in tension 7 Photo sensors
2 Fabric defect marking sensors 8 Vacuum tables
3 Air floatation tables 9 Conveyorized tables
4 Heavy load rollers 10 Leveling devices
5 Automated panel cutting systems
6 Efficiency - some machines achieve a speed of up to 140m/min.This is
possible because of fast sensors ,processors and smoother mechanical parts

8. Conclusion
This unit has an overall explanation of the spreading department of a garment industry , as there are lengths
of fabric which are to be managed to further be converted into a garment for which the spreading process
plays an important role , for a good cut order planning the spreading plays a vital role . As spreading is the
part of production process because it is basic for obtaining a high quality final product. The good spreading
is said to be of high quality if it has the following characteristics:

1. Free of noticeable defects in the fabric

2. Tension free
3. Flat
4. Selvedge are aligned at the least on one edge
5. Free of static electricity
6. Accurately spliced with minimal waste
7. Precise length, mode and number of piles

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9. References

1. Clothing Industry. (2020). Retrieved from https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/:

https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2017/11/production-system-garment-industry.html
2. Islam, R. (2018). Fabric Spreading Objectives and Requirements. Retrieved from
niterians.blogspot.com/:http://niterians.blogspot.com/2016/06/fabric-spreading-objectives-
and.html?m=1
3. Islam, M. (2017). Main Objects of Fabric Spreading. Retrieved from garmentsmerchandising.com:
https://garmentsmerchandising.com/key-purposes-of-fabric-spreading/
4. Khan, R. (n.d.). Quality Factors in Fabric Spreading. Retrieved from textilelearner.blogspot.com:
https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/05/quality-factors-in-fabric-spreading.html?m=1
5. Raaz, N. A. (2016, FEBRUARY 12). Fabric Spreading Process in Garments. Retrieved from
http://textilemerchandising.com/: http://textilemerchandising.com/fabric-spreading-process-in-garments/
6. Ashraf, M. R. (2014, AUGUST 21). Spreading Modes. Retrieved from textileinsight.blogspot.com:
https://textileinsight.blogspot.com/2014/08/spreading-modes.html?m=1
7. Fabric Spreading in Garment Industry. (2018). Retrieved from clothingindustry.blogspot.com:
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/fabric-spreading-garment-industry.html?m=1
8. School, T. (2018, MARCH 21). Spreading – laying the fabrics for cutting. Retrieved from
www.textileschool.com: https://www.textileschool.com/336/spreading-layering-the-fabrics/
9. Types of spreads. (2011, DECEMBER 26). Retrieved from http://ecoursesonline.iasri.res.in/:
http://ecoursesonline.iasri.res.in/mod/page/view.php?id=80371
10. baig, F. u. (2017, MARCH 8). LinkedIn. Retrieved from Linkedin.com:
https://www.slideshare.net/Farhanullahbaig/fabric-spreading-72936786

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