Sourcing Seafood Guide
Sourcing Seafood Guide
Sourcing Seafood Guide
COVER PHOTOS: FRONT COVER: Hauling lobster traps in Boothbay Harbor, Maine,
courtesy of National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration; Steve Malinowski of
Fisher’s Island Oyster Farm, courtesy of Sarah Malinowski; Fennel-cured wild salmon
photographed by BATTMAN, courtesy of Chef Rick Moonen, Restaurant RM; and farmed
American caviars, courtesy of Caviar Emptor. Back Cover: Rick Oltman with wild salmon
of Cape Cleare Fishery, courtesy of Stephen L. Davis.
Sourcing Seafood
A Professional’s Guide to Procuring FIRST EDITION
Ocean-friendly Fish and Shellfish
INTRODUCTION .................................................................. 3
PARTNERS ......................................................................... 6
SEASONALITY ................................................................... 12
A NOTE TO USERS
The Seafood Choices Alliance compiled this list of suppliers from our research and
discussions with those in both the conservation community and seafood industry.
The Alliance does not, however, endorse or certify these businesses. This guide merely
seeks to highlight those businesses offering better environmental choices in seafood.
We strongly encourage you to visit supplier web sites, engage in conversations with
these fishermen or farmers, and ask questions about their operations. In the end, it is
up to you to determine your own level of comfort with your food sources.
This sourcebook represents the first attempt to incorporate ocean-friendly seafood
supply information into one comprehensive guide. By no means does this edition list
4 Sourcing Seafood
every single ocean-friendly seafood supplier. As anyone who handles seafood knows,
fisheries and farming operations are complex in their management. This first edition
is a product of the information available at the time of its development; updated
future editions will ensure continued accuracy. Finally, there may be disagreement
between conservationists and industry insiders about the level of sustainability of
certain farming or fishing practices and the effectiveness of current management
systems. Sourcing Seafood recognizes the complexity of the issues. Users should view
this sourcebook as one more tool enabling the buyer to make the best purchasing
decisions possible.
Future editions of this guide will benefit from suggestions and input from all inter-
ested parties, including fisheries groups, aquaculture organizations, suppliers, and
buyers. The seafood business is changing constantly, particularly as more individuals
recognize the importance of sustainability and better practices. In future editions we
hope to include additional species that may not be considered ocean-friendly today
but that, through improvements in fishing and farming methods or management
schemes, might be tomorrow.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Sourcing Seafood would not have been possible without the support of many organiza-
tions and individuals. Seafood Choices Alliance wishes to thank The David and Lucile
Packard Foundation, particularly Mike Sutton, for its generous support. A special
thank you to seafood industry veterans Howard Johnson and Peter Redmayne for
their writing and painstaking research of ocean-friendly seafood suppliers. We would
also like to express our appreciation to SeaWeb, especially Vikki Spruill and Dawn
Martin for their leadership and over-arching vision, without which the Seafood
Choices Alliance would not exist. We wish to acknowledge Lisa Dropkin of Edge
Research for her contribution to a greater understanding of the seafood marketplace.
We are most grateful to Janin/Cliff Design, Inc. for its expertise and patience and to
our editor, Jean Brodsky Bernard, for her diligence. All fish and shellfish illustrations
are the artistry of B.Guild/ChartingNature, www.chartingnature.com.
Conservation partners whose research and expertise provided invaluable informa-
tion on the status of the species covered in this book include Blue Ocean Institute,
Caviar Emptor, Environmental Defense, Monterey Bay Aquarium, and the SeaWeb
Aquaculture Clearinghouse. We thank these organizations and all Alliance partners
for their significant contributions.
We would also like to thank the many individuals and businesses in the seafood
industry that offer the ocean-friendly seafood items featured on the following pages,
thereby supporting a lasting and diverse supply of seafood for generations to come.
We dedicate Sourcing Seafood to you.
6 Sourcing Seafood
Glossar y of Fishing and
Aquaculture Terms
Bycatch
This is the fish and other marine life that is incidentally caught with the targeted
species in a fishery. Typically discarded dead at sea, bycatch includes seabirds, marine
mammals, turtles, juveniles of the targeted species, and even fish sought after in other
fisheries. Approximately one-quarter of the global fishery catch is discarded each year
as bycatch.
Overfishing
Overfishing occurs when the rate of fishing is greater than the level required to meet
the management goal or maximum sustainable yield. In other words, overfishing
occurs when a population of fish is caught faster than it can replenish itself through
reproduction.
Dredge
Used mainly to target shellfish, dredges employ a heavy mesh to suck up everything
from the seafloor. The gear is dragged along the bottom, and the shellfish are held in
a sort of bag or sieve that allows the water, sand, or mud to run out. Boat dredges vary
in weight and size, but they are usually fairly heavy and their effect on bottom habi-
tats is a major concern.
Drift Net
A large gill net ranging in length up to 40 miles, a drift net is suspended vertically
with floats and allowed to drift freely in the open ocean. The United Nations has
banned the use of drift nets in international waters because of their nonselective
catch characteristics. Drift nets in U.S. waters are limited to 1.5 miles in length.
Gill Net
A gill net’s mesh size allows the heads of fish to pass through the openings, but the
gills are caught. Many states, including Texas, Louisiana, Florida, and California, have
banned the use of gill nets in their coastal waters. Like drift nets, gill nets are associat-
ed with bycatch because they are nonselective. In some cases, however, regulations
establish where nets can be placed in the water or what time of day they can be set to
help reduce the chances of catching nontargeted species.
Harpooning
Harpooning is a surface method that requires considerable effort to locate and chase
individual fish, as opposed to fisheries methods that target schools of fish. Harpoons,
which target high-value fish, are handheld or fired from a gun. Because harpoons are
aimed at individual fish, bycatch is not a concern.
Hook-and-Line
Analogous to the rod and reel used by recreational anglers, the hook-and-line
method attracts fish by natural or artificial bait (lures) placed on a hook fixed to the
end of a line, or snood, on which fish are caught. Hook-and-line units may be used
singly or in large numbers.
Longline
A longline consists of many short lines, each baited with a hook, suspended vertically
from a main line that is dragged horizontally through the water. Longlines can carry
thousands of hooks and stretch as long as 40 miles. This method is generally associat-
ed with moderate to high bycatch, depending on how many hooks there are and
where and when the lines are set. Longlines set for tuna, for instance, also catch
swordfish, shark, turtles, and seabirds (the last are attracted to the baited hooks as
they are put in the water).
8 Sourcing Seafood
Pole
Fish caught by this method are first attracted to bait fish thrown into the water; in the
midst of the ensuing feeding frenzy, fish are caught on hooks attached to a pole and
poled aboard. This fishing method is used worldwide to capture surface-swimming
tuna such as yellowfin and skipjack.
Purse Seine
A net usually set by two boats and used to catch open-sea or pelagic fish. The boats
encircle a school of fish, then the bottom of the net is drawn together like a purse. As
with any net, the size of the mesh determines which species is targeted. The “dolphin-
safe” logo resulted from public awareness of the bycatch of dolphins associated with
purse seines used in the Pacific tuna fishery.
Trawl
A trawl is a sock-shaped net with a wide mouth tapering to a small, pointed end
(sometimes called the cod end) that is towed behind a vessel at any depth. This
method is more indiscriminate than others because the net scoops up everything in
the trawl’s path.
A factory trawler is a large stern trawler, typically 150 to 300 feet in length,
equipped with onboard facilities for gutting, filleting, freezing, and storing fish and
for processing fish oil and fish meal.
Trolling
This is a type of hook-and-line method described above in which several unconnected
lines, each hooked and baited, are slowly dragged behind the vessel.
Aquaculture Terms:
Aquaculture
Aquaculture is the farming of aquatic species, such as fish and shellfish, in salt, brack-
ish, or freshwater. Farming implies private ownership and enhancement of produc-
tion by stocking, feeding, providing protection from predators, and other manage-
ment measures. According to the Food and Agricultural Organization’s latest figures,
about one-third of the seafood consumed worldwide is farm-raised.
Fish Meal
The primary protein source for farmed carnivorous fish. Small pelagic fish, such as
anchovy, herring, sardine, sand eel, sprat, and capelin, are caught, processed into fish
meal pellets, and fed to farmed fish.
Netpen System
A type of fish farm that consists of mesh enclosures (or sometimes cages), typically
placed in coastal areas. The outside structures may be rigid or semi rigid. There is no
effective barrier between the netpen interior and the ocean, so wastes are emitted
directly into the surrounding waters. This system also creates the potential for farmed
individuals to escape into the wild and spread disease to wild populations.
Carnivorous fish, such as salmon, are commonly farmed using net pens.
10 Sourcing Seafood
authority of the Organic Foods Production Act. The principal guidelines for organic
production are to use materials and practices that enhance biodiversity and that inte-
grate the parts of the farming system into an ecological whole.
Currently, no aquaculture-specific organic standards exist in the U.S., and there is
much confusion about the current state of organic fish farming. According to some fish
farmers, until such standards are developed, producers may obtain organic certification
and market their products as organic as long as they comply with USDA’s general
organic livestock rules. This has been the case for two shrimp farmers in the U.S., and
it is expected that more shrimp farmers, as well as some tilapia and catfish farmers, may
follow. Others contend, however, that because no specific standards exist, it is impossi-
ble to have an organically certified product, especially when not all organic principles
are followed. They argue that fish, such as salmon, raised on feed that includes nonor-
ganic ingredients such as fish meal made from wild-caught fish and preserved with syn-
thetic chemicals do not meet the definition of organic. Many producers and consumers
are looking to USDA’s National Organic Standards Board to resolve these issues.
Organic aquaculture standards have been developed in several other countries, and,
as a result, aquaculture products certified to these standards and labeled as organic have
started to show up in U.S. markets. However, one should note that these products do
not meet USDA organic standards, which, as stated above, do not yet exist for seafood.
Pond System
One of the earliest forms of aquaculture., ponds can be either natural or artificially
constructed. Managing the waste discharges properly can reduce the impact of ponds
on the environment. Catfish, carp, and tilapia are most commonly cultured in ponds.
Recirculating System
Recirculating systems are closed, or semi closed, aquaculture systems in which most
of the water is recycled through the system and very little is discharged. Water that
would otherwise be discharged with wastes is treated and reused within the system.
Recirculating systems limit other environmental impacts, such as escapes and disease
interactions, but they are costly to operate and are highly dependent on electricity or
other power sources.
Spring
Winter Summer
Fall
12 Sourcing Seafood
Fish and Shellfish Guide
HIGHLIGHTS
● World supply of
abalone (farmed and
W ho knew that an “herbivorous marine gastropod” with a Latin name
that sounds like bad breath could taste so good? A single-shell mollusk
from the genus Haliotis, abalone is a gastropod, an order that includes snails, whelks,
wild): 18,000 metric and sea slugs. Worldwide, there are over one hundred species of abalone.
tons (MT) The California coastline is ideal abalone habitat. In the 1950s and ’60s, the state’s
● Farmed abalone from commercial catch was almost 5,000 metric tons of red, black, and pink abalone.
China and Taiwan: However, flawed management strategies, a devastating disease, and, possibly, an
approx. 9,000 MT increase in the sea otter population (abalone predators) have decimated California’s
● Australia is the largest abalone populations. Although a small sport fishery for red abalone still occurs in
producer of wild northern California, the state has had no commercial abalone fishery since 1997 and
abalone: annual catch the U.S. has banned commercial catch of wild abalone nationwide.
is about 5,000 MT To meet demand for this prized delicacy, abalone farming has grown substantially
● Wild abalone illegally in the past decade, especially in China and Taiwan, which produce more than 90
poached: approx. percent of the world’s farmed abalone. All U.S.-raised abalone are from California,
3,000 MT which produces only 200 MT (half is exported live to Asia). U.S. production is expected
to increase gradually over the next decade, and Canada is also hoping to start farmed
abalone production in British Columbia.
CONSERVATION NOTES
n the 1990s, illegal catch of abalone exploded as Asian demand grew. Today, worldwide
I populations are a fraction of what they once were, and some experts estimate that one-
third of the abalone traded in the world today is caught illegally.
The good news is that abalone farmers have made great strides in producing abalone in
a sustainable manner. In China, the largest abalone farms grow their own kelp to feed the
abalone, while in other areas, farmers use wild kelp. While taking kelp from the wild is usual-
ly a sustainable process, some scientists are concerned about the impact of removing kelp
because of its importance in providing food and habitat for other species.
IN SEASON
● Available year-round* SPRING
FALL
14 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
● Live
● Processed, tenderized meats (fresh, frozen,
and canned)
BUYING TIPS
● In the market, farmed abalone is between two and three inches.
● If abalone is over four inches, it’s likely to be imported wild abalone or poached
from California.
● Live abalone is readily available on the U.S. market and a Mexican farm now offers it.
● When tenderized and cooked, abalone has a mild, slightly sweet flavor with a firm
but tender texture.
● Tenderized cuttlefish steaks are sometimes passed off as “abalone steaks.” If you’re
not sure of your products origin, check for needle marks—a sure sign that your
abalone is the real thing.
Salvelinus alpinus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Arctic char is the most
northerly freshwater
A rctic char, spelled “charr” in Canada, is a member of the Salmonid family. It
resembles a salmon in appearance but is genetically more closely linked to
trout. While some stocks of Arctic char migrate to the ocean and return to freshwater
fish that is sold (500 to spawn, others spend their entire life in freshwater. Unlike Pacific salmon, Arctic
miles south of the char does not die after spawning.
North Pole) In the wild, these fish enter saltwater in the spring and spend the summer gorging
● Wild char is found in themselves on feed fish like capelin and Arctic cod. In the fall, they return to freshwa-
Arctic Circle nations ter lakes and rivers, weighing 30 to 50 percent more than when they left. In many
(Canada, Iceland, cases, char does not feed during winter months; it lives off the fat accumulated the
Greenland, Russia, previous summer.
and U.S.)
● Two-thirds of the world’s
Arctic char supply is
farmed CONSERVATION NOTES
Top farmed producers: and-based, closed-cycle systems used to farm Artic char are considered to be among
●
Canada and Iceland L the most environmentally responsible fish farming designs, as they do not significantly
pollute surrounding waters or affect nearby wild populations through escape or disease
transmission.
Similar to other farmed carnivorous fish, farmed Arctic char feed contains fish meal, fish
oil, and varying levels of a synthetic version of natural carotenoid pigments (used to give
the flesh a pinkish hue). Continued use of wild fish for feed is unsustainable; however,
diets using a larger proportion of grain are being developed.
In northern Canada, local Inuit of Nunavut participate in a closely monitored commercial
Arctic char fishery with 220,000 pounds of commercial production. Commercial production
only takes place after the community’s food requirements have been met, and fishermen
use passive gear such as shore-set surface gill nets, fish weirs, and traps.
The Canadian fishery is currently being evaluated by the Marine Stewardship Council for
sustainability certification.
IN SEASON
● Farmed: Available year-round, SPRING
16 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM THE PERFECT
FRESH (FARMED AND WILD): SUBSTITUTE
● Head on and gutted, or fillets Most Arctic char is sold
at the foodservice level,
FROZEN: where chefs often choose
● An Icelandic company also offers frozen fillets it as a better environmen-
o Fresh (wild): Headed and gutted, or filleted (inconsistent) tal choice than similar-
o Frozen (wild): Headed and gutted, or filleted tasting farmed salmon.
The taste of Arctic char
is generally considered
Although it has been farmed for well over a decade, farmed char production somewhat milder than
remains quite small. Farmers have had considerable difficulty selecting char that either king or Atlantic
consistently perform well because of its complex genetic makeup. Until farmers can (farmed) salmon, and its
solve these problems, supply of Arctic char will remain relatively limited. high fat content makes
it suitable for dry heat
BUYING TIPS cooking methods such
● Arctic char is expensive and is not available from many seafood distributors. as broiling and grilling.
● Quality is relatively consistent for farmed char. It also makes an excellent
● Flesh color (wild and farmed) varies from a pale orange-pink to a bright red, smoked product.
depending on the region or amount of pigment in feed (farmed).
DISTINGUISHING
RULES FOR WILD CHAR: BETWEEN WILD
● Char caught in late summer or fall is fattier and more flavorful. AND FARMED:
● As a rule larger char have more oil and, hence, more flavor. ● Farmed char has
● Processing in remote coastal areas is challenging, and quality can be inconsistent. redder skin with cream-
colored spots.
● Wild char has more
silver-colored skin.
Ictalurus punctatus
HIGHLIGHTS
● The U.S. farm bill
(2003) specifies that
H undreds of catfish species are found in warm and temperate regions through-
out the world, but none is more beloved by U.S. consumers than the channel
catfish, farmed mostly in the Mississippi Delta region. And catfish seems to have
only native U.S. catfish gone from regional favorite to national food trend almost overnight. In 1970, U.S.
can be marketed as catfish production barely reached five million pounds. Today, U.S. farmed catfish
“catfish” is the fifth leading seafood consumed in the U.S., with sales reaching a record 662
● U.S. farmed catfish is million pounds (live weight) in 2003.
the fifth most consumed Now the backbone of the U.S. aquaculture industry, U.S. farmed catfish gets high
species in the U.S. marks from conservation groups for its reputation as a sustainably farmed fish. In the
● U.S. catfish farming U.S., channel catfish is raised in large freshwater ponds with little waste discharge,
is concentrated in and escape of fish is controlled.
Mississippi, Alabama, In the market, you’ll find two additional catfish species, both farmed in Vietnam’s
Arkansas, and Mekong Delta region and marketed as basa or tra. Many Vietnamese catfish farmers
Louisiana use float cages in rivers, which may lead to discharge of waste and escape of fish into
local waterways. U.S. imports of Vietnamese catfish fillets have decreased sharply due
to high tariffs enacted by the U.S. government after U.S. catfish farmers successfully
filed trade suits, alleging unfair competition.
CONSERVATION NOTES
nlike carnivorous fish, which require fish meal and oil for feed, U.S. farmed catfish is
U fed 90 percent grain-based feed, with soybeans as the primary ingredient (although
feed formulas may contain some fish meal). Vietnamese farmers have traditionally used a
diet of ground fish, but the trend is toward grain-based feeds similar to those used by U.S.
catfish farmers.
Catfish farms are a lure for predatory birds, and bird kills (legal and illegal) are not
uncommon on catfish farms.
IN SEASON
● Available throughout the year SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
18 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM A NEW PLAYER
U.S. FARMED CATFISH Chinese fish farmers
● Fillets, fresh or frozen (2–12 ounces) recently started growing
o Usually include belly flap or “nugget” and exporting channel cat-
o “Shank” fillets have flap removed fish, the U.S. native
o “Strips” are finger-size strips cut from regular or shank fillets species. Given China’s
● Gutted whole fish, fresh or frozen record in developing new
● Dressed fish, steaks, and nuggets (a co-product of the production of shank fillets) species, this could mean
● Frozen available marinated or breaded a rapidly increasing supply
of channel catfish in the
near future. Conservation
BUYING TIPS groups have not yet evalu-
● Most catfish processors test catfish before they gather them to ensure algae have ated Chinese catfish farms
not caused an “off” or muddy flavor. for environmental impacts.
● Processing cooperatives or private companies usually provide the finished product
(purchased directly from catfish farmers).
ASSOCIATIONS
The Catfish Institute (TCI)
P.O. Box 924, Indianola, MS 38751, Phone: 662–887–2988, Web Site: www.catfishinstitute.com
The Catfish Institute, formed in 1985 to promote farmed U.S. catfish, offers recipes and promotional material.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Many varieties of great
American caviars are
T he sole term, caviar, can only be used for the eggs of sturgeon and paddlefish.
Roe from other fish, such as whitefish, salmon, or trout, is technically not caviar
and must be identified as salmon caviar or trout caviar to avoid any misrepresentation.
available in the mar- While not part of the typical American seafood diet, caviar enjoys a strong follow-
ket: white sturgeon, ing among high-end consumers in search of a gourmet experience. Historically osetra
paddlefish, whitefish, and beluga sturgeon from the Caspian Sea region of Russia and Iran have been the
salmon, and trout major source of caviar sold in the U.S. However, this caviar’s expensive price tag has
caviar. Of these, white resulted in overfishing and illegal trading of Caspian caviar, placing fish like beluga
sturgeon, paddlefish, sturgeon in danger of extinction.
and trout are farmed. In recent years American producers have offered a number of alternatives to
● Caviar has a shelf life Caspian caviar that have found favor with caviar lovers. Caviar varieties produced
of two weeks to a year from sturgeon and paddlefish farmed in the United States taste very good and are
if it is handled and environmentally sustainable: a win-win situation for culinary professionals and con-
refrigerated properly. sumers who are concerned about the sharp decline of sturgeon populations in the
Caspian Sea. Unique roes from farmed trout and wild Alaska salmon are also making
caviar lovers do a doubletake, and these great tasting roes are less expensive than
Caspian caviars.
CONSERVATION NOTES
aviar from farmed white sturgeon provides an environmentally friendly alternative to
C caviar from threatened Caspian sturgeon and North American sturgeon stocks. White
sturgeon farms, located in California, are closed-system tank farms that have minimal
environmental impact. Salmon caviar is also available from well-managed wild salmon
fisheries, and trout caviar is available from environmentally friendly fish farms in the U.S.
IN SEASON
● Farmed caviar (trout, sturgeon, and SPRING
of supply
● Salmon caviar is gathered during wild FALL
20 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
● By the ounce, usually in jars and tins A HALT ON
● Salmon caviar is also available in plastic tubs CASPIAN
CAVIAR TRADE
In early September 2004,
the United Nations’
Convention on International
BUYING TIPS Trade in Endangered
● White Sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus): Native to the west coast, white sturgeon Species (CITES) effectively
caviar is farmed in California. White sturgeon is raised for about 10 years until large halted global trade of
enough so that both the eggs and the meat can be used. In blind taste tests, caviar Caspian Sea sturgeon
from farmed white sturgeon was most similar in taste to osetra caviar. caviar, including prized
● Paddlefish (Polyodon spathula): Native to North America and close cousin of the beluga caviar. At that time,
sturgeon, paddlefish is considered an endangered species, making it illegal to CITES had refused to
remove it from the wild. One U.S. company, Osage Catfisheries, has the necessary approve most caviar export
permit to trade in farmed paddlefish products, including caviar. Paddlefish produce quotas for 2004—the first
small to medium, gray eggs. time it had done so since
● Salmon: Sold in Japan as ikura (eggs) or sujiko (roe skeins), salted salmon caviar is it began monitoring the
now widely available in the U.S. Eggs from chum salmon (also called keta) are trade in 1998. CITES
considered the most desirable, due to their thin membrane, tender texture, and explained Caspian nations
attractive orange color. Most salmon caviar is a product of Alaska’s wild fishery; were in violation of an
however, Lake Michigan produces some chinook salmon roe, which is large and international sturgeon
orange-red in color. conservation agreement
● Trout: Mostly farmed, but not widely available, brook and rainbow trout roe is that requires them to
orange and smaller than salmon caviar. In some cases, rainbow trout roe can also reach consensus on the
be sticky. division of basin-wide
● Whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis): Hand-fished under strict quotas from the lakes quotas and to take illegal
of Northwest Montana. Has a rich apricot hue and a mild flavor. fishing into consideration
when determining those
numbers. CITES said the
freeze on exports from
the Caspian Sea will
remain in place until the
states have complied with
the agreement.
HIGHLIGHTS
● The ocean quahog can
live to be over 200
S urf clam (Spisula solidissima) and ocean quahog (Arctica islandica): These
two large offshore clams support the largest clam fishery in the U.S. Each year
processors slice, dice, and chop almost 100 million pounds of meat from these clams
years old into a variety of value-added products, including clam chowders and breaded clam
● Clams, like oysters and strips. The fishery for these clams is managed by individual transferable quotas
some other bivalves, (ITQs), and landings have been stable in recent years at very high levels. These clams
have the ability to are collected using big vessels that tow large hydraulic dredges. Small ocean quahogs,
produce pearls collected inshore, are marketed as mahogany clams or golden necks.
Hardshell-clam (Mercenaria mercenaria): Depending on size, hard-shell clams may
be sold as Little Necks, cherrystones, topnecks, quahogs, or chowders. Little Necks, the
tenderest and most expensive, are most often eaten raw on the half shell or steamed.
Cherrystone clams can be eaten raw, but are usually steamed. Topneck and chowder
clams are normally ground up and served in value-added clam products like stuffies.
On the U.S. East Coast, hard clams are farmed and collected at the Little Neck-size
grade or smaller. In the wild, hard clams are collected by hand dredge, tong, or rake.
U.S. production of hard-shell clam meat is about 10 million pounds a year.
Manila clam (Venerupis philippinarum): Manila clams were introduced initially by
accident to the West Coast of the U.S. from Japan in the 1930s. Most Manila clams in
the market come from cultured beds in the inside waters of Washington state. In
CONSERVATION NOTES
s filter feeders, clams require clean, unpolluted water. At the same time, clams act as
A filters and can actually improve the quality of the water in which they grow.
Clam farming uses the bottom of bays and estuaries where “seed” clams are spread
and grown to market size. Many species are collected with tongs, rakes, and handheld
dredges, which have significantly less impact on the seafloor than large hydraulic dredges
used to collect surf clams and ocean quahogs.
IN SEASON
● Year-round availability, with greatest SPRING
FALL
22 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM WHAT DO
FRESH: CLAMS AND
● Live (farmed clams are almost always sold live) TREES HAVE
● Shucked meat IN COMMON?
It is common knowledge
FROZEN: that you can discover the
● On the half shell age of a tree by counting
● Shucked meat its rings, but did you know
that you can do the same
with a clam? Like a tree,
British Columbia, Manilas are cultured and collected from wild beds. Almost always the older the clam is, the
sold live, Manilas are considered to be very tender and sweet (although they are rarely more difficult it is to deter-
eaten raw). They are gathered by hand rake, and production in the U.S. is about one mine its age because the
million pounds of meat a year. growth rings can be very
Soft-shell clam (Mya arenia): A very popular (and expensive) clam that is dug by close together.
hand in New England and the Chesapeake Bay—and also called steamer clam and
belly clam—the soft-shell is most often served either steamed in the shell or as fried
meat. Attempts to farm soft-shells have not been successful, but production of wild
soft-shells is relatively stable at about two to three million pounds of meat a year.
BUYING TIPS
● You can buy clams by the piece, pound, or bushel (volume weight). Avoid buying
by the bushel, however, as the definition of a bushel can vary among suppliers.
● You can find the best shelf life and meat yield in the winter, which is often when
prices are lowest due to reduced demand from coastal resorts.
● Shelf life declines considerably in the summer after the clam spawns. HEALTH
ADVISORY
Paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP) is caused by
eating bivalve shellfish
ASSOCIATIONS that is contaminated with
BC Shellfish Growers Association algae containing harmful
350 (B) Robson Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 2V5 Canada, Phone: 250–714–0804, Web Site: www.bcsga.ca,
toxins. The toxin that
Executive Director: Pamela Parker • Represents scallop, clam, and oyster growers in British Columbia.
causes PSP cannot be
East Coast Shellfish Growers Association
1623 Whitesville Road, Toms River, NJ 08755, Phone: 732–349–1152, Web Site: www.ecsga.org • Relatively new
destroyed by cooking or
organization representing shellfish growers in New England and the mid-Atlantic states. freezing. Inquire with your
Pacific Coast Shellfish Growers Association supplier about routine
120 State Ave. NE, PMB #142, Olympia, WA 98501, Phone: 360–754–2744, Web Site: www.pcsga.org, Executive testing of products.
Director: Robin Downey • The largest shellfish association in North America, PCSGA represents local, state, and federal
interests of oyster, clam, mussel, scallop and geoduck growers from Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon,
California, Mexico, and Hawaii and is involved in environmental protection, shellfish safety and health issues, technologi-
See page 98 for the list of
cal advances, and international marketing and research, among other concerns.
Clam suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 23
Cod, Pacific
Gadus macrocephalus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Pacific cod is a “cousin”
of Atlantic cod
P acific cod is very similar to its famous cousin, Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua).
While the two species are used interchangeably in the marketplace, Pacific
cod has a slightly higher moisture content and a less firm texture than Atlantic cod.
● Two-thirds of Pacific Although Pacific cod is found from California to Alaska and from northern Japan to
cod is caught in Russia, about two-thirds of the cod catch comes from Alaskan waters. There are also
Alaskan waters two small trawl fisheries in Washington state and British Columbia.
● Trawlers catch most More than 80 percent of Alaska’s Pacific cod is caught in the Bering Sea, where the
Pacific cod, although quota is split among trawlers (48 percent), longline boats (42 percent), and pot boats
some is caught by (10 percent). In the Gulf of Alaska, Pacific cod are caught by trawlers based in Kodiak,
longlines or pot boats Alaska. Trawlers also dominate Japanese and Russian Pacific cod fisheries, although
there is a longline fishery in Russian waters.
While they can weigh more than 50 pounds, most Pacific cod caught commercially
is between five and 15 pounds.
CONSERVATION NOTES
n the last decade, Alaska catches of Pacific cod have been stable, with a quota set each
I year following an assessment of Pacific cod populations. The fishery closely monitors
bycatch and can be shut down if excessive levels of nontarget species (such as halibut)
are caught.
Alaska’s longline Pacific Cod fishery has applied for certification by the Marine
Stewardship Council.
IN SEASON
● Alaskan: Fall and winter, although other SPRING
FALL
24 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM WHEN
FRESH: “REFRESHED”
● Limited quantity; fillets (from processors in Kodiak and Seward, Alaska, MEANS
or trawlers in Washington state and British Columbia) “PREVIOUSLY
FROZEN”
FROZEN: New England processors
● Majority is headed and gutted, skinless, boneless fillets (from shore-based plants) purchase large amounts
● Much smaller portion is fillets (from factory trawlers) of headed and gutted cod,
then “refresh” it and sell
it as fillets year-round.
BUYING TIPS Most of this cod has
● The quality of this fish can vary substantially depending on how well it was been treated with sodium
handled at sea. tripolyphosphate to ensure
● The highest quality is produced by freezer longliners, which process fish on board that it retains its moisture.
a short time after bringing it aboard. Some Pacific cod in
● Factory trawlers can produce a high-quality product as well, if tows are short and the market may even be
fish is processed promptly. “twice frozen.” The U.S.
● Most Alaskan trawlers delivering to shore-based processing plants hold their fish imports about 25 million
in refrigerated seawater tanks. Since the fish is not bled, its meat is normally not pounds of cod from China,
as white. which purchases frozen
headed and gutted cod
from Russia or Alaska,
thaws it, fillets it, freezes
it, and exports it back to
the U.S.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572, Web Site:
www.alaskaseafood.org Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • The Institute promotes Alaska cod in addition to other
Alaskan seafood products. Its Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional materials,
and a directory of Alaska cod suppliers.
Cancer magister
HIGHLIGHTS
● Many consider the
Pacific fisheries for
T he most popular crab on the West Coast, Dungeness crab is fished from
Alaska to northern California. Named after a fishing town on a spit of land on
Washington’s Strait of Juan de Fuca, Dungeness crab can weigh over four pounds,
Dungeness to be the though in heavily fished areas weights average closer to two pounds. Dungeness also
most sustainably has a relatively high meat yield: 25 percent. Its attractive size and sweet meat have
managed of the made Dungeness increasingly popular in recent years. China, for example, now
world’s crab fisheries imports more than 15 million pounds of live Dungeness a year.
Dungeness crab fishermen have experienced high catch levels in recent years, with
landings in the U.S. and Canada reaching a record of almost 100 million pounds in
2003. In terms of U.S. crab fishery landings, the Dungeness fishery is second only to
blue crab. In the U.S., Washington state has the largest Dungeness fishery, followed
by Oregon, California, and Alaska.
Adult Dungeness is reddish-brown in color, with short, thick legs. It reaches sexual
maturity at age three, and mating typically occurs in the summer.
CONSERVATION NOTES
n most areas, there is no set quota on Dungeness crab. Instead, the fishery is managed
I through permitting systems, pot limits, and time and area closures, and fishermen are
only allowed to land male crabs over a certain size. In California, Oregon, and Washington
state, the minimum size carapace is 6 1/4 inches. The circular pots used to catch
Dungeness crab are highly selective, so bycatch is not an issue with this fishery.
The Oregon Dungeness crab fishery has applied for certification by the Marine
Stewardship Council.
IN SEASON
● Caught almost year-round, but peak SPRING
26 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Live
● Whole cooks
● Sections or clusters
● Picked meat
FROZEN:
● Whole cooks
● Sections or clusters
● Picked meat
BUYING TIPS
● A large portion of Dungeness labeled as fresh crabmeat is actually picked from
meat that was frozen in December and January, when production peaks and prices
are at their lowest.
● If you want truly fresh meat, plan to pay more since prices are higher after January.
If you’re buying frozen sections, be careful of crab processed in early December—
in some years, crabs from the ocean fishery have not filled out completely after
molting and their meat yield tends to be low.
ASSOCIATIONS HEALTH
Oregon Dungeness Crab Commission ADVISORY
P.O. Box 1160, Coos Bay, OR 97420, Phone: 541–267–5810, Fax: 541–267–5771, Web Site: www.oregondunge-
The “crab butter” and
ness.com, Email: info@oregondungeness.com • This Commission promotes Dungeness crab caught by vessels fishing
from Oregon ports. The Commission Web site contains valuable information for retailers and restaurateurs as well as internal organs of this
tips on crab quality and handling. species may contain a
Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations (PCFFA) natural toxin that, when
P.O. Box 29370, San Francisco, CA 94129, Phone: 415–561–5080, Fax: 415–561–5464, Web Site: www.pcffa.org,
ingested, can result in
Email: fishlifr@aol.com
paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP).
See page 101 for the list of
Dungeness Crab suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 27
Crab, Jonah & Rock
HIGHLIGHTS
● A Jonah crab has
rough “teeth” along
O nce considered bait-robbing pests by lobstermen who routinely killed them
and tossed them back, rock and Jonah crab are valuable bycatch of the lobster
fishery, with their own directed commercial fisheries now emerging.
the sides of its shell, Atlantic rock crab and Jonah crab are two common crabs found on the East Coast
while a rock crab has from Labrador to South Carolina. Rock crabs, the smaller of the two species, are
smooth-edged teeth caught mainly in the summer by inshore fishermen, while Jonahs are caught year-
● Rock crabs are some- round by inshore and offshore lobster boats. In Canada, there continues to be an
times referred to as offshore, though sporadic, fishery for Jonah crab.
peekytoe crabs The claw and leg meat from rock crab is pink with a sweet, delicate flavor, quite
similar to Dungeness crab. Jonah meat is more uniformly white with a mild flavor.
CONSERVATION NOTES
ittle is known about the size of rock and Jonah crab populations since their fisheries are
L relatively limited and, thus, have not attracted the attention of fisheries scientists.
There is no set quota for these crabs; instead, these fisheries are managed by a minimum
size limit and only males may be caught.
Catches of both species fluctuate widely. In the case of rock crab, reported catches in
New England plummeted from four million pounds in 2000 to just 600,000 pounds the fol-
lowing year, probably a result of a short lobster fishing season. In general, rock and Jonah
catches are lower during a shorter lobster season, as these shellfish are mostly a bycatch
of the lobster fishery.
IN SEASON
● Rock crab: catch is highest in summer, SPRING
SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
28 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
ROCK CRAB:
● Fresh or frozen, almost always cooked; packs
of leg, body, or combination meat
JONAH CRAB:
● Fresh or frozen, almost always cooked; packs of leg, body, or combination
meat; whole claws available either fresh or frozen, sold separately
BUYING TIPS
● With only a handful of processors specializing in this fishery, the quality of Jonah
and rock crabmeat is very consistent.
● Jonah claws are relatively large and can be an inexpensive substitute for stone
crab claws.
Paralithodes camtschaticus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Over half of the U.S.
supply of king crab
K ings crabs are found throughout the world in colder waters, but the name king
crab is synonymous with Alaska, where a fishery for king crabs was developed
in the 1950s. Three species of king crab have traditionally been fished in Alaska,
comes from Russia’s including red king crab, the largest and most common species, which can reach 20
Far East fisheries pounds. Red king accounts for about 75 percent of the Alaska catch, and about half
● Among all king crab of the red king catch is typically caught in Bristol Bay.
species, only male The remote waters of the Aleutian Islands contain a significant fishery for golden
crabs can be legally king crab, the smallest of the Alaska king crabs. The blue king crab fishery once yielded
collected catches of ten million pounds a year, but the fishery has been closed since 1999 due
● Only about one-quarter to low numbers of juveniles surviving until reproductive maturity.
of king crab is edible,
primarily the legs and
claws
CONSERVATION NOTES
opulations and catches of king crab can fluctuate wildly. In Alaska, for example, king
P crab catches have declined from a record 140 million pounds in 1980 to less than 20
million pounds in recent years. Some scientists theorize that fish predation and a warmer
ocean may be responsible for the crash, though overfishing may also have played a role.
Since 1981, the U.S. government has closed large areas of Alaska to king crab fishing in
the hope that populations in these areas will rebound. Strict quotas have been set in areas
that remain open.
The Russian (North Pacific) king crab fishery is not as well-managed; illegal fishing there
is widespread and populations are in decline.
Norway has a problem for which Russia and Alaska could only hope. In the late 1990s,
North Atlantic king crab populations increased so dramatically that some biologists are
now concerned that this non-native population is too big and may have an adverse impact
on the local environment. In fact, to stop growth, Norway is considering an unrestricted fish-
ery in which both male and female crab can be fished.
IN SEASON
Fresh (primarily cooked): SPRING
30 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM A DANGEROUS
● Almost all crab is cooked PROFESSION
immediately after landing King crab fishermen have
● Some is delivered live to processing plants, which one of the most danger-
brine and freeze it in clusters. These clusters are then shipped to reprocessors, who ous jobs in the world. An
bandsaw the frozen clusters into individual legs and claws and grade them accordingly extremely short season,
● King crab is sold by number of legs per ten pounds along with gale force
● Frozen is available all year winds and freezing water
temperatures, make this a
* Coming soon: a longer supply of fresh king crab. The Alaska crab fishery is moving away treacherous occupation.
from the derby-style short season, which could mean a longer season, thus enabling However, changes are on
processors to ship fresh clusters. the horizon. Alaska is
attempting to “rationalize”
the king crab industry,
The same three species of king crab are fished in Russia’s North Pacific waters as meaning that the season
well. Both Russia and Norway also have a commercial fishery for red king crab in the could be extended and
North Atlantic, where the species was introduced by the Russian government in the unpredictable derby-day
1960s. weather may be avoided.
BUYING TIPS
● Shore-based plants have greater supplies of fresh water, so they generally produce a
less salty product than fishermen that process onboard.
● Expect packers to include up to ten percent broken legs and/or shoulders in a
shipment.
● Check the glaze: acceptable glaze is three percent or less for king crab. Perform
periodic net weight tests to ensure you’re not paying for water instead of meat.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572, Web Site:
www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • ASMI promotes all major Alaska seafood, including king
crab. The Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional materials, and a directory of
Alaskan crab suppliers.
Chionoecetes opilio
HIGHLIGHTS
● Most snow crab con-
A s connoisseurs are well aware, snow crabs are highly popular and are prized
for their sweet taste and delicate texture as well as for their affordability com-
pared to other crab species such as king crab.
sumed in the U.S. is A number of species of snow crabs are fished commercially in both the North
imported, with Canada Atlantic and North Pacific, yet the one most closely identified with the snow crab
accounting for over 80 name, and the largest fishery by far, is C. opilio. Snow crab is fished commercially off
percent of the market Atlantic Canada (where it is also called Queen crab), Alaska, Russia, and Greenland.
share, followed by Snow crab populations off Alaska began to decline in the late 1990s and have not
Russia and Greenland yet recovered. Currently, a majority of U.S. imports are from the Canadian snow crab
fishery. Catches off Canada’s Atlantic Coast have exceeded 200 millions pounds a
year since 1999. In September 2004, however, scientists reported a 98 percent decline
in snow crabs in at least one area around Newfoundland, and while there is much
speculation about the reasons for this decline, some scientists point to overfishing.
There is concern that too many mature males are being caught, which does not leave
enough sexually mature males in the water to sustain the population. The fisheries
council has been asked to draft a long-term conservation plan for snow crabs, which
is likely to include quota reductions.
CONSERVATION NOTES
anadian snow crab stocks have been at very high levels for more than a decade, which
C some scientists attribute to the collapse of cod stocks in the region (cod is a major
predator of snow crab). As stated above, however, the Canadian snow crab fishery is experi-
encing major declines in catch compared to this recent high. Since 1991, snow crab catches
off Alaska have collapsed from 330 million pounds to just 25 million pounds.
Because it is fished by pot, the snow crab fishery has very limited environmental impact
and minimal bycatch.
IN SEASON
● Canadian supply is most plentiful from SPRING
FALL
32 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Clusters (not readily available)
FROZEN:
● Clusters (sections)
● Picked frozen meat
A smaller snow crab, red snow crab (C. japonicus), is fished off Russia and Japan
and is sometimes exported to the U.S. These fisheries are highly variable and not well
regulated, however.
Snow crabs typically average about two pounds and yield sections (clusters) mostly
between five and eight ounces each.
BUYING TIPS
● Best-quality, high-price snow crab comes from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where
some Canadian processors use cryogenic freezers that produce a superior product,
but most of this crab goes to the Japanese market.
● Snow crab should be checked for excess glaze and broken pieces—the industry
standard for broken pieces is 10 percent.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572, Web Site:
www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • The Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute promotes snow
crab, among other Alaskan seafood. The ASMI Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes,
promotional materials, and a directory of Alaska snow crab suppliers.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Stone crab claws are
often cooked right on
T alk about a renewable resource. In the stone crab fishery, fishermen haul up
their pots, pluck a stone crab out, tear off its claw, and toss it back to grow
another claw. If the claw has a length of at least two inches, one or both may be
the crabbing boats and removed from a male or non-egg-bearing female.
are always sold cooked Several species of stone crab are found from North Carolina to Mexico’s Yucatan
● A stone crab can Peninsula, but more than 90 percent of the catch is the common stone crab, which
regenerate its claws is fished in Florida waters from October to May. Although stone crab is fished along
up to four times in much of Florida’s coast, most landings occur off the southern half of Florida’s west
a lifetime coast.
● Almost all stone crabs In about one year, a larger stone crab can regenerate a claw that’s about two-thirds
claws are collected its original size. A smaller crab can take three years to grow a claw that just meets the
from the waters off the legal market size. Surveys of crab buyers indicate that about 20 percent of the claws
coast of Florida purchased from fishermen are from crabs that had already been declawed once.
CONSERVATION NOTES
tone crabs have quite astonishing reproductive rates, spawning up to 13 times a year.
S Minimum claw size regulations make it possible for female stone crabs to go through
one or two breeding seasons before they are caught.
While the stone crab population is generally believed to be in good condition, landings
of Florida stone crab have been below historical levels (about six million pounds) during the
past few years. Due to insufficient data, biologists are uncertain why landing numbers are
down, although the decrease is believed to be caused by more fishing by both recreational
and commercial fishermen. To combat the problem, Florida fishery managers are adapting
measures to reduce fishing effort by decreasing the number of pots currently being used.
IN SEASON
● Florida stone crab season: SPRING
October 15–May 15
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
34 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
● Always cooked, either fresh or frozen
BUYING TIPS
● Timing is everything: claws should be cooked shortly after removal from the crab
to prevent the meat from sticking to its shell.
● Fresh stone crab claws have a shelf life of only three to four days, so it can be
difficult to ship them out of state.
● Beware of imposters. Chilean and Mexican rock crab, for example, is occasionally
sold as stone crab. Compared side by side, the rock crab has similar black-tipped
claws, but the Florida stone crab is larger, smoother, and more orange in color.
HIGHLIGHTS
● There are over 500
species of crawfish
W hether you call them crayfish, crawfish, crawdads, or mud bugs, these little
crustaceans look and taste a bit like lobster. In Cajun country, where craw-
fish is a cause for celebration, the locals “pinch the tails and suck the heads” with
● More than 90 percent legendary gusto.
of U.S. crawfish pro- Believe it or not, there is a good chance the crawfish you’re eating is farmed and is
duction comes from not from the U.S. unless you’re in Louisiana. The U.S. currently produces 15 to 20
Louisiana, and most of million pounds (live weight) of (mostly red swamp) crawfish, 90 percent of which is
it is consumed locally produced in Louisiana and consumed in the state. In addition, over half of the total
● In 2002, the U.S. U.S. production is farmed. Red swamp crawfish, however, is also farmed in China,
imported 15 million which exported about 15 million pounds of this crustacean to the U.S. in 2002.
pounds of farmed There is a small quantity of wild crawfish on the market—both red swamp
crawfish from China (Procambarus clarkii) and white river (P. acutus). This is collected from swamps, rivers,
lakes, or flooded rice fields in the Southeast. There is also a small commercial craw-
fish fishery in the Pacific Northwest for signal crawfish (Pacifasticus leniusculus), a
larger species that has also been introduced to Europe, where it is farmed.
CONSERVATION NOTES
hile there have been no formal stock assessments, populations of wild crawfish
W appear to be healthy and catch is largely a function of weather. In dry years, for
example, crawfish catch declines sharply.
Wild crawfish is caught in shallow-water pots, so the fishery has minimal environmental
impact.
Crawfish farmers usually use a polyculture system, where they grow semiaquatic feed
plants such as rice in ponds, which they also use to farm the crawfish.
IN SEASON
● Live wild crawfish and fresh crawfish SPRING
months.
36 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM STATE
FRESH U.S. (FARMED OR WILD): CRUSTACEAN
● Whole cooked In 1983 the governor of
● Cooked tail meat Louisiana designated the
crawfish the state crus-
FROZEN (MOSTLY FROM CHINA, YEAR-ROUND): tacean, becoming the first
● Cooked tail meat state to have an official
crustacean. While it may
seem strange for a state
BUYING TIPS to adopt a crustacean, as
● Best buys are in early spring when supplies are plentiful and quality is highest. a multimillion dollar a year
● In May or June the prices are better, but shells are thicker in late spring, making the industry in Louisiana, the
crawfish harder to peel and hot, stagnant water can produce crawfish with a crawfish was awarded the
muddy taste. honor for its commercial
● When buying live crawfish, don’t accept more than five percent dead loss. and cultural importance.
ASSOCIATIONS: HEALTH
Louisiana Seafood Promotion and Marketing ADVISORY
1600 Canal St., Ste. 210, New Orleans, LA 70112, Phone: 504–568–5693, Fax: 504–568–5668, The “crab butter” and
Web Site: www.louisianaseafood.com, Email: tracy@louisianaseafood.com • Promotes Louisiana seafoods. Web site
provides recipes, promotion ideas and links to suppliers. internal organs of this
species may contain a
natural toxin that, when
ingested, can result in
paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP).
See page 105 for the list of
Crawfish suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 37
Flounder, Summer (Fluke)
Paralichthys dentatus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Part of flounder’s
scientific nomencla-
S ummer flounder, a popular East Coast flatfish, fished from Maine to Florida,
is often called fluke because of its distinctive shape. In the summer, fluke
migrates inshore, where it is caught in large numbers by recreational fishermen,
ture, dentatus, refers hence the name summer flounder. This fish can grow quite large, with females reach-
to its full supply of ing more than 20 pounds (males rarely grow larger than five pounds).
sharp teeth Summer flounder has a mild flavor and delicate texture. When cooked, summer
● One of the largest flounder turns almost pure white.
summer flounder ever
caught measured four
feet and weighed 30
pounds
● Summer flounder can
live a relatively long
life, with the oldest
recorded age of CONSERVATION NOTES
20 years ummer flounder is managed as a distinct species by several agencies, including the
S New England Fishery Management Council and the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries
Commission (ASMFC). According to the ASMFC, summer flounder numbers are “once again
approaching record highs.” Although populations of summer flounder have rebounded from
their low levels of the early 1990s, numbers of many other East Coast flatfish, such as
Atlantic halibut and yellowtail flounder, are still considered to be well below optimal levels.
Summer flounder is taken in pound nets (stationary gear type) and gill nets in the estu-
arine waters of Maryland, Virginia, and North Carolina and trawl fishery fleets along the
U.S. coast from Massachusetts to North Carolina.
Trawling for summer flounder can damage seabeds and result in bycatch of nontargeted
species. Fishery management agencies try to monitor these effects and regulate areas and
methods of operation. For example, summer flounder trawlers are required to use turtle
excluder devices (TEDs).
IN SEASON
● Offshore fishery: winter SPRING
FALL
38 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Whole
● Dressed fillets
FROZEN:
● Fillets
BUYING TIPS
● It’s no fluke that summer is the best time to land a good deal on summer flounder.
Landings are heaviest then because this big flatfish moves inshore in its annual
migration.
● The highest-quality summer flounder is caught in pound nets in the mid-Atlantic
states. This fish is often sold live, and significant numbers are exported live to
Japan, where they are consumed as sashimi.
● Fillets are usually available in size ranges from one to three ounces to six to eight
ounces, although some suppliers offer small, medium, large, and jumbo sizes.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Consumption advisory
due to PCB levels,
based on Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA)
and state health
advisories:
● Women should limit
their intake to one
meal per month
● Men should limit
ASSOCIATIONS their intake to one
Virginia Marine Products Board meal per month
554 Denbigh Blvd, Newport News, VA 23608, Phone: 757–874–3474, Fax: 757–886–0671,
● Children ages 0–6
Web Site: www.virginiaseafood.org, Email: llvasfd@pilot.infi.net • The Virginia Marine Products Board promotes a
variety of seafoods caught off state waters, including summer flounder. Information and promotional materials are should not eat any
available through the Virginia Marine Products Board. flounder
● Children ages 6–12
should limit their
intake to less than
one meal per month
See page 105 for the list of
Summer Flounder suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 39
Halibut, Pacific
Hippoglossus stenolepis
HIGHLIGHTS
● Average size: 10–60
pounds, three feet long
H alibut is the largest of the flatfish. Two species are fished commercially: Pacific
halibut and Atlantic halibut. Of the two species, Pacific halibut is far more
abundant. Pacific halibut is found primarily along the west coast of North America,
● Maximum age: from northern California to Alaska, with the commercial fishery occurring primarily
42 years in Alaska and British Columbia.
● Range: California to There is a smaller fishery for Pacific halibut in the western North Pacific off north-
Alaska ern Japan and Russia. China processes Japanese- and Russian-caught halibut and
● Historically, Pacific exports several million pounds of frozen halibut fillets to the U.S.
halibut has weighed as Atlantic halibut was once common in U.S. waters, but it is now very rare due to
much as 500 pounds overfishing. In the 1950s, Atlantic halibut landings peaked at almost 25 million
pounds; in 1999 landings were approximately 25,000 pounds. The commercial
Atlantic halibut fishery is currently closed in the U.S., though the species is caught
incidentally in other fisheries and is fished recreationally.
In 1995, an individual quota system replaced “derby fishing”(intensive fishing for
short periods) for Pacific halibut. This means that fishermen may fish their quota
anytime between March 1 and November 15, thus providing a supply of fresh Pacific
halibut for much of the year.
CONSERVATION NOTES
acific halibut is considered to be abundant. In North America, halibut is caught in long-
P line fisheries and is regulated by the International Pacific Halibut Commission (IPHC),
a joint United States-Canada endeavor. Each year the IPHC determines the status of the
halibut population and establishes a quota for the fishing season. The Marine Stewardship
Council is currently assessing the Pacific halibut fishery for certification as a “sustainable
and well-managed” fishery.
IN SEASON
● March 1 through November 15. SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
40 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM WHY’S MY
FRESH: HALIBUT SO
● Distributors usually buy whole, fresh, gutted fish CHALKY?
and sell it as boneless fletches or steaks (bone-in and boneless) Pacific halibut meat is
● There are about four fletches per fish, weighing up to 20 pounds or more per fletch sometimes found to be
● Fletches from larger fish are usually cut into smaller pieces “chalky”—a condition
● Smaller “chicken” halibut (10–20 pounds) is sometimes sold whole associated with “a denatu-
ration of muscle proteins”
FROZEN: that appears more often
● Usually sold headed and gutted and as steaks or fletches in late summer and in fish
● Frozen fletches normally run eight to twelve pounds caught farther south. The
● Steaks typically are offered in four to ten ounces good news is it occurs in
only about one percent of
HALIBUT “CHEEKS”: halibut. Chalkiness is easy
● A sweet-flavored delicacy cut from head area next to gills, with texture similar to crab to spot in fillets—the meat
● Range from three ounces to more than a pound, depending on the size of the fish is white instead of translu-
cent. While this is accept-
able for applications like
BUYING TIPS fish and chips, most buyers
● When fresh is not available, distributors thaw headed and gutted halibut, and then don’t want to pay as much
fillet or steak it—a process known as “refreshing.” for chalky fish.
● Previously frozen cooks about 30 percent faster than fresh, which is why frozen
halibut has a reputation for being dry.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Consumption advisory
due to mercury levels.
ASSOCIATIONS According to the U.S. Food
International Pacific Halibut Commission & Drug Administration:
P.O. Box 95009, Seattle, WA 98145, Phone: 206–634–1838, Fax: 206–632–2983,
● Children age 0–6
Web Site: www.iphc.washington.edu, Email: info@iphc.washington.edu • The IPHC Web site has information on the
regulatory aspects of the halibut fishery, including quotas and fishing dates. should limit intake to
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
three meals per month
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572, ● Children age 6–12
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • ASMI promotes the Alaskan halibut fishery (along
should limit intake to
with other sustainable Alaskan fisheries) and offers a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional mate-
rials, and a directory of Alaska halibut suppliers. four meals per month.
Homarus americanus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Although often called
Maine lobster, the
T he American lobster is not only one of the most popular seafoods in the U.S.,
but it also comprises one of the most valuable fisheries, generating dockside
revenues of almost $300 million yearly. This combination of value and popularity
American lobster is has resulted in significant concern regarding the sustainability of the fishery.
found from Canada to American lobster, also known simply as Maine lobster, is a bottom-dwelling marine
North Carolina crustacean that is distributed widely over the continental shelf from the mid-Atlantic
● The brain of a lobster is to Labrador. It takes five to eight years for American lobster to reach sexual maturity
about the same size as and it can live almost 100 years. In both Canada and the U.S., American lobster is
that of a grasshopper. caught in traps. A smaller quantity is caught as bycatch by trawlers.
● Lobsters’ teeth are in Fishing removes nearly all American lobsters shortly after they mature. Since the
their stomach, not in species grows very slowly, and matures late, it may be quite vulnerable to unfavorable
their mouth environmental conditions and overfishing.
CONSERVATION NOTES
number of regulatory safeguards are in place to maintain sustainability of the lobster
A fishery in the U.S. and Canada, including catch limitations on size (carapace length)
and sex (“berried” females with extruded eggs must be returned), trap design requirements
(e.g., escape ports), and limits on the number of traps used in the fishery.
Some concerns remain, however. Currently, a majority of the lobster catch has barely
reached maturity with lobsters generally weighing just over one pound. In addition, it appears
that larger male lobsters are becoming scarce. And of serious concern is a disease that
has decimated lobster numbers off Long Island and appears to be moving northward.
IN SEASON
● Off the U.S. coast, American lobster SPRING
42 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Live
FROZEN:
● Whole cooked
● Raw tails
● Cooked meat
● Cooked claws
BUYING TIPS
● If you’re looking for a deal, the best time to buy is in May, when the Canadian
Gulf of St. Lawrence season opens and summer demand has not kicked in yet.
After Labor Day is also good because catches in Maine are still decent, and
demand from the summer coastal resorts drops off dramatically.
● If you’re buying lobsters from Maine in the early summer, be prepared to encounter
soft-shell lobsters (also known as shedders), which can have pretty poor meat fill.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Consumption advisory
due to mercury levels.
According to the U.S.
Food and Drug
ASSOCIATIONS Administration:
Maine Lobster Promotion Council ● Children ages of 0–6
382 Harlow Street, Bangor, ME 04401, Phone: 207–947–2966, Fax: 207–947–3191,
should limit their
Web Site: www.LobsterFromMaine.com, Email: info@LobsterFromMaine.com, Kristen Millar, Executive Director •
A state agency, the Maine Lobster Promotion Council is responsible for market development of Maine lobster through intake to two meals
promotional and educational activities. The Council is involved in a variety of training programs for foodservice and per month
retail, including proper handling, preparation, and serving of lobster.
● Children 6–12 should
limit their intake to
four meals per month
Panulirus spp.
HIGHLIGHTS
● The United States
imports 87 percent
T he terms “rock” and “spiny” lobster are sometimes used interchangeably. Spiny
lobster is often marketed as “warmwater” tails (mostly from Caribbean nations,
California, or the coasts of Central and South America) or “coldwater” tails (from
of its spiny/rock Australia, New Zealand, or South Africa). This lobster does not have the characteristic
lobster—mostly from large front claws of the American lobster; it has a spiny, hard shell for protection
Australia, Caribbean (hence its name). Some populations of these lobsters are overfished while some are
countries (mostly the very well-managed. See below for more information concerning spiny lobsters avail-
Bahamas, Honduras, able on the U.S. market.
Nicaragua), and Brazil Caribbean Spiny Lobster (Panulirus argus): The largest fishery for spiny lobster,
● Conservation organi- Caribbean sources comprise about 65 percent of the U.S. spiny lobster market. It is
zations rate U.S. found in warm waters from Bermuda to Brazil. Almost all of the U.S. commercial
(California, Florida) catch comes from the Florida Keys, where levels appear to be steady and management
spiny lobster and West has been effective in maintaining the population. Many populations of Caribbean
Australia rock lobster spiny lobster, however, are heavily fished and there are significant concerns regarding
as good environmental widespread illegal catch and catch of undersized and egg-bearing lobsters.
choices West Australian Rock Lobster (Panulirus cygnus): The second largest spiny lobster
fishery, this lobster comprises about seven percent of the U.S. spiny lobster market.
The fishery that supplies this highly sought-after species is certified as sustainable by
the Marine Stewardship Council.
California Spiny Lobster (Panulirus interruptus): Most found between Point
Conception, California and Magdalena Bay, Baja California, where the population
is most dense. There are enough of these lobsters to support a small, well-managed
CONSERVATION NOTES
Spiny lobsters are caught with traps and by hand. While bycatch is generally not severe,
there can be significant mortality of lobsters that are handled poorly or discarded because
they are not the legal size.
IN SEASON
● While there are seasonal peaks in
both warmwater and coldwater lobster
production, the bulk of the catch is
converted to frozen tails so there is
a good supply year-round.
44 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM DETERMINING
FRESH: THE SEX OF A
● Live SPINY LOBSTER
Female spiny lobsters
FROZEN: have very small claws on
● Whole (blanched or fully cooked) their rear legs that are
● Raw tails and meat used for tending their
eggs, which are carried
under their tails. Just look
fishery in southern California (U.S.). The Mexican fishery for spiny lobster is certified for the claws to determine
as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council. if your lobster is a female.
BUYING TIPS
● With such a pricey product, some less scrupulous suppliers have made fortunes
selling excess glaze or meat that has been injected with water.
● Coldwater tails sell for a substantial premium over warmwater tails, so suppliers
occasionally try to pass the warmwater tails off as coldwater. Fortunately, it’s easy
to spot the difference: warmwater tails are smooth with a greenish-colored shell
with spots, while coldwater tails have a rough shell, with a deep reddish-purple
color.
● Large numbers of Caribbean spiny lobsters are caught by divers who separate the
tails and hold them on ice. If the boats stay out too long, the result is a mushy
textured, inferior product.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Atlantic mackerel is
the largest mackerel
S everal important members of the Scombridae family swim the waters off the
U.S. Atlantic mackerel (Scomber scombrus), king mackerel (Scomberomorus cavalla),
Spanish mackerel (Scomberomorus maculates), and chub mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
fishery in the U.S. are all fished commercially in the U.S.
The largest mackerel fishery in the U.S., with over 50 million pounds landed in
2002, is Atlantic mackerel, which is found in large schools on both sides of the North
Atlantic. Caught off the U.S. coast from New Jersey to Maine, mackerel averages one
to two pounds. The fishery for Spanish mackerel is much smaller by comparison:
Florida fishermen catch about five million pounds in a typical year, with individual
fish averaging two to three pounds. Florida also accounts for most of the king mack-
erel supply in the U.S., with annual catches averaging about two million pounds.
Kings are substantially larger and can grow to 70 pounds, but most of the commercial
catch averages five to 20 pounds.
CONSERVATION NOTES
.S. mackerel fisheries appear to be well managed and sustainable at current levels.
U In the case of Atlantic mackerel, market conditions, rather than size of the resource,
usually dictates catch levels. Purse seining and trawling have been the primary catch methods
for these two species, and, because they are pelagic schooling fish that are caught in the
upper level of the water column, bycatch in these fisheries has not been a major issue.
Before 1995 there was a significant gill net fishery for Spanish mackerel in Florida
waters. However, since that time, a ban on commercial fishing nets in this region has
resulted in a switch to hook-and-line fishing gear and, thus, lower catch levels in Florida.
IN SEASON
● Both Atlantic and Spanish mackerel SPRING
46 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH AND FROZEN:
● Whole
● Fillets
● Headed and gutted
BUYING TIPS
● In the U.S., where most mackerel is landed in high-volume fisheries, the focus is
more on quantity, than quality, although it is possible to find higher-quality fish
from smaller-volume fisheries.
● The best Atlantic mackerel is landed in the fall in trap fisheries off New England.
After a summer of heavy feeding, this fish has high oil content and is excellent
grilled.
● Like many tuna, if mackerel is handled poorly (lack of ice or refrigeration),
histamines can result, leading to a higher risk of scromboid poisoning
Coryphaena hippurus
HIGHLIGHTS
● Mahimahi is also
marketed as dolphin,
H awaiian for “strong-strong” (in reference to its great strength as a swimmer),
mahi often goes by other names, such as dorado in Latin America and dolphin
or dolphinfish in the southeastern U.S. But don’t be fooled by its Hawaiian roots;
dolphinfish, and dorado mahi is found globally in tropical and subtropical waters and is available fresh from
● Mahi is available year- many sources, within and outside the U.S.
round, with peak abun- One of the largest fisheries for mahi is off Ecuador, with small-boat, handline fish-
dance in late spring ermen landing 25 million pounds in a good year. The U.S. has a relatively small mahi
and summer fishery, which produces about two million pounds a year, two-thirds of which is
● Taiwan is the leading caught by Hawaiian fishermen.
supplier of mahi to the The best—and most expensive—mahi comes from the Hawaii troll fishery, which
U.S. market, followed has less environmental impact than mahi hook-and-line fisheries. While most of
by Ecuador, Peru and these fish are sold to high-end restaurants in Hawaii, a limited amount is “exported”
Costa Rica to the mainland.
● In spite of its domestic Mahimahi is a mild, sweet-tasting fish that is very popular in restaurants through-
mahi fishery, the U.S. out the U.S.
imports 25 million
pounds of frozen fillets
each year
CONSERVATION NOTES
ahi populations are believed to be abundant and healthy due to their fast growth rate,
M high reproductive capacity, and the fact that they reach reproductive maturity by six
months. During spawning, female mahi can produce a quarter-million eggs or more.
Most mahimahi is caught by hook and line (both handline and longline) conducted by
small boats in directed fisheries, which have minimal bycatch. Significant amounts of mahi
are also caught as a bycatch in tuna longline fisheries. Mahi appears to be able to with-
stand a fair amount of fishing pressure; however, mahi is highly migratory and there are no
current, long-term stock assessments for mahi. Also, there are no fishery management
plans for the species, suggesting that overfishing could be a problem in the future.
IN SEASON
Available year-round SPRING
48 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM BIG FISH,
FRESH: VORACIOUS
● Whole EATER
● Headed and gutted Mahi gains an average
● Fillets of ten percent of its body
weight per day, and in
FROZEN: favorable conditions it can
● Mostly fillets, both whole fillets and individual portions grow to three feet or more
in its first year—making it
one of the fastest-growing
BUYING TIPS fish in the sea. Dolphinfish
● Look for brightly colored skin when buying mahi; if color has faded to a dull gray, feed aggressively in pairs,
the fish is past its prime. If you’re buying fillets, high-quality meat will still have a small packs, and schools
pinkish hue. on flying fish, squid, and
● When buying fresh mahi, it’s best to buy headed and gutted fish for maximum whatever forage fish is
shelf life. most abundant.
● The best deals on mahi are available in the late fall and early winter when catches
off Ecuador and Costa Rica are at their peak.
● Mahimahi can be a tasty substitute for overfished species such as snapper and
grouper.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Consumption advisory
due to mercury levels.
According to the U.S. Food
& Drug Administration:
● Children age 0–6
should limit intake to
three meals per month
● Children age 6–12
should limit intake to
four meals per month
HIGHLIGHTS
● Almost half of the
mussels imported into
M ussels are cultured in approximately 40 countries around the globe, with
four species accounting for the bulk of world production:
Blue Mussels—These mussels have a moderate flavor and a firmer texture than
the U.S. are live blue clams. The farmed variety has a thinner, darker shell than wild blue mussels and is
mussels from Atlantic usually collected at a shell size of 2–3 inches.
Canada, primarily Mediterranean Mussels—Long a European favorite, these mussels are now grown
Prince Edward Island on the west coast of the United States. They are usually collected at 2.5–3.5 inches,
● Of the remaining but they can be found in larger sizes. Mediterranean mussels tend to yield about
imports, most of 15 percent more meat than blue mussels.
the supply is frozen Green Mussels—Not to be confused with New Zealand greenshells, these are
greenshell mussels produced in Thailand and generally sold as frozen meat or cooked on the half shell.
on the half shell from Wild green mussels are a problem in Florida, where they foul bridges, docks, and
New Zealand boats.
● U.S. mussel producers, New Zealand Greenshell Mussels—Also referred to as a greenshell or greenlip
located mostly in mussel, this mussel is about 30 percent larger than a blue mussel. It is usually export-
New England and ed individually frozen (after steaming) on the half shell or as frozen meats, smoked,
Washington state, or other products.
sell almost all of their
production live
CONSERVATION NOTES
ndividual mussels filter approximately 10–15 gallons of seawater daily to extract enough
I plankton for nutrients. Mussel farmers depend on a clean and healthy environment, as
these filter feeders only thrive in top-quality water. Closures of mussel farming areas can
occur from time to time if testing indicates the presence of harmful algal toxins.
Culturing mussels on suspended ropes in the water column generally has little environ-
mental impact. While mussels can be dredged from the sea bottom, this method typically
has significant environmental impact.
IN SEASON
● Blue mussels: winter through SPRING
early spring
● Mediterranean mussels: spring WINTER SUMMER
through fall
FALL
SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
50 Sourcing Seafood
HELPFUL HINTS
Depending on the species,
PRODUCT FORM time of year, and culture
● Blue mussels: live and frozen, both as meats and cooked in the shell; precooked, method, a mussel’s meat-
vacuum-packed are becoming available to-shell ratio ranges from
● Mediterranean mussels: live and frozen, both as meats and cooked in the shell 20 percent in bottom-
● Greenshell mussels: individually frozen (after steaming) on the half shell, as frozen cultured blue mussels to
meats, smoked, or other products; small quantities of live greenshells are also available. 50 percent in rope-grown
greenshell mussels.
* The most important steps in processing mussels are purging to remove sand or grit and Rope-grown mussels tend
sorting to eliminate dead mussels. Some producers also hold mussels in tanks of water to have thinner, cleaner
that are treated with ultraviolet light, which destroys harmful bacteria, a process known as shells and a higher meat-
“depuration.” to-shell ratio.
● Mussels in good condi-
tion can live up to two
BUYING TIPS weeks after they are
● Remember: spawning mussels aren’t the best for eating in terms of texture (mushy) collected.
and meat yield, and, after a mussel spawns, its shelf life is greatly reduced. ● A mussel isn’t neces-
sarily dead if its shell
AS A RULE: is gaping. To check,
● Blue mussels are best in the winter and early spring (summer spawners). immerse the mussel in
● You can switch to Mediterranean mussels in the spring, summer, and fall (winter fresh water. If its shell
spawners). closes, it’s alive.
● New Zealand’s greenshell and green mussels are usually frozen, so season isn’t
generally a concern.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP) is caused by
eating bivalve shellfish
ASSOCIATIONS that is contaminated with
Pacific Coast Shellfish Growers Association (PCSGA) algae containing harmful
Olympia, Washington, Web Site: www.pcsga.org • The largest shellfish association in North America representing the
toxins. The toxin that
interests of shellfish growers from British Columbia, Alaska, Washington, Oregon, California, Mexico, and Hawaii. The
PCSGA is a good source of information about environmental issues, shellfish safety and health issues, technological causes PSP cannot be
advances, and marketing and research. destroyed by cooking or
PEI Aquaculture Alliance freezing. Inquire with your
Charlottetown, PEI, Canada, Web Site: www.aquaculturepei.com • The Alliance, which includes the PEI Cultivated
supplier about routine
Mussel Growers Group, promotes Prince Edward Island (Canada) aquaculture and provides contacts and promotional
materials for PEI blue mussel growers. testing of products.
Greenshell.com
Blenheim, New Zealand, Web Site: www.greenshell.com • Greenshell.com is the promotional arm of the New Zealand
See page 113 for the list of
Mussel Industry Council, Ltd., and is responsible for promoting New Zealand greenshell mussels.
Mussels suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 51
Oysters
HIGHLIGHTS
● Most Eastern oysters in
the market are wild, but
T wo species of oysters dominate the U.S. supply: Eastern oysters and Pacific oysters.
The taste of oysters is strongly influenced by the characteristics of local waters,
and species tend to be marketed by origin. Other species commonly found include the
a number of hatcheries Olympia oyster, the Japanese Kumamoto oyster, and the European flat oyster. Oysters
now produce seeds for are the most common farmed shellfish in the world.
oyster farmers Eastern oyster (Crassostrea virginica): Fished and farmed from Atlantic Canada to
● On the west coast of the Gulf of Mexico and represents about 80 percent of U.S. oyster production. Most
North America, almost are collected from the wild, but overfishing, habitat degradation, and disease have
all oysters are farmed driven wild catch levels in some areas to record lows. Farmed Eastern oysters, grown
from seeds, which using a rudimentary form of aquaculture where farmers transport oysters from nursery
largely derive from areas to grow-out areas, are considered a good environmental choice.
non-native species European (flat) oyster (Ostrea edulis): Sometimes called Belon oysters, in reference
to a once-major production area. Disease and pollution have decimated populations,
and European production is a small fraction of what it once was. Small farming opera-
tions have introduced flat oysters to New England, California, and Washington state.
Kumamoto oyster (Crassostrea sikamea): Native to Kumamoto Bay, Japan, this
oyster was introduced to the west coast of North America after World War II. Today,
they are farmed from British Columbia to northern California and are relatively
expensive due to more labor intensive farming practices.
CONSERVATION NOTES
ysters farmed in nets, trays, or racks suspended in the water column are considered
O good environmental choices, though farms may use non-native species. The oyster is
a filter feeder—it filters algae and may augment local water quality conditions. It does not
require feed, so there is no net loss of wild fish as is the case with carnivorous fish farm-
ing. Oyster farming requires little or no drugs or other chemicals. The collection of oysters
from the ocean bottom may be detrimental to bottom habitat and associated organisms.
IN SEASON
● Available year-round; periodic closure of SPRING
FALL
52 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Live
● Meat
FROZEN:
● Meat or half shell
Olympia oyster (Ostrea lurida): The Olympia oyster is found from Alaska to Baja
California, although Washington is the only state that has produced Olympias on a
commercial scale. Overfishing and pollution have reduced catch levels to less than
one percent of former levels. A few growers in Washington state have had some HEALTH
success farming Olympias, but production remains limited. ADVISORY
Pacific oyster (Crassostrea gigas): Comprises 98 percent of world farmed oyster Oysters may carry the
production. Native to Japan, it is now farmed extensively in Washington state, British Vibrio vulnificus bacteri-
Columbia, Europe, and the Pacific Rim. Most growers use hatchery seeds and raise um, a naturally occurring
the oysters on the ocean bottom or on trays or ropes suspended in the water column. bacterium that is in high-
est concentrations in
BUYING TIPS summer months, which
● If stored at 36–40° F in a moist environment, oysters can be kept up to two weeks can be fatal when con-
after they are collected, however, shelf life is shorter after spawning in the summer. sumed by people with
● As a rule, Olympia oysters command the highest price, followed by European oys- compromised immune
ters, Kumamotos, Pacific oysters, and Eastern oysters. systems. Health officials
● By law, a live-oyster shipment must include identification of the oysters’ origin and recommend cooking oys-
collection date; it is illegal to discard this tag sooner than 90 days after delivery. ters thoroughly to elimi-
nate any harmful bacteria.
Paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP) is caused by
eating bivalve shellfish
ASSOCIATIONS that is contaminated with
Pacific Coast Shellfish Growers Association algae containing harmful
120 State Ave. NE, PMB #142, Olympia, WA 98501, Phone: 360–754–2744, Web Site: www.pcsga.org,
toxins. The toxin that
Executive Director: Robin Downey • The largest shellfish association in North America. Shellfish growers in Alaska,
British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, California, Mexico, and Hawaii and is involved in environmental protection. causes PSP cannot be
British Columbia Shellfish Growers Association
destroyed by cooking or
350 (B) Robson Street, Nanaimo, BC V9R 2V5 Canada, Phone: 250–714–0804, Web Site: www.bcsga.ca, freezing. Inquire with your
Executive Director: Pamela Parker • Represents scallop, clam, and oyster growers in the province.
supplier about routine
East Coast Shellfish Growers Association testing of products.
1623 Whitesville Road, Toms River, NJ 08755, Phone: 732–349–1152, Web Site: www.ecsga.org • A relatively
small association representing oyster and mussel growers. Its Web site provides links to a number of nongovernmental
associations.
See page 114 for the list of
Oyster suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 53
Pollock, Alaska
Theragra chalcogramma
HIGHLIGHTS
● Alaskan pollock goes
by many names:
T he versatility of Alaska pollock is demonstrated in dishes from fish sticks to
sushi. This adaptability to many flavors or preparations has made Alaska pollock
one of the largest food fisheries in the world. Fisheries for Alaska pollock operate on
walleye pollock, bigeye both sides of the Bering Sea—in the Gulf of Alaska and in Russia’s Sea of Okhotsk—
pollock, bigeye cod, with landings totaling over six billion pounds.
snow cod, whiting, Although Alaska pollock can grow to more than 20 pounds, most of the fish land-
tomcod, and Pacific ed in the commercial fishery is less than three pounds. A member of the cod family,
pollock Alaska pollock has lean, white flesh that becomes opaque when cooked. A close rela-
● In Japan, Alaskan tive, Atlantic pollock, is fished on both sides of the North Atlantic. Atlantic pollock is
pollock roe (momijiko) larger and has a higher oil content and grayer flesh than the Pacific species.
is often salted and Most Alaska pollock is sold as either fillets or as surimi. It’s also the fish most
colored with red often used in retail breaded and battered fish items. A very mild-tasting fish, high-
vegetable dye quality Alaska pollock produces an excellent, moist fillet comparable to sole.
CONSERVATION NOTES
ccording to the National Marine Fisheries Service, the agency responsible for managing
A pollock populations, numbers of Alaska pollock in the eastern Bering Sea population
appear to be nearing record levels. Pollock in Russia’s sector of the Bering Sea is over-
fished, with catches declining significantly over the past decade.
Alaska pollock is caught by mid-water trawls, which have no impact on the sea floor.
These trawlers process pollock at sea into fillets, headed and gutted product, or surimi.
In September 2004, the Marine Stewardship Council certified as sustainable the Bering
Sea Aleutian Islands (BSAI) pollock fishery. A decision on certification of the Gulf of Alaska
pollock fishery is still pending. Several conservation organizations and scientists, however,
remain concerned that current fishing levels significantly reduce an important food source
for the endangered Steller sea lion and are preventing its recovery. To reduce food competi-
tion, large near-shore areas around the sea lion rookeries of the Bering Sea, Aleutian
Islands, and the Gulf of Alaska are now off-limits to trawling.
IN SEASON
● Available sporadically, generally in the SPRING
FALL
54 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Available, but not common
FROZEN:
Mostly fillets
● Twice-frozen
● Single-frozen, deep-skinned, or with fat layer intact
BUYING TIPS
● The highest-quality fillets are frozen at sea but are generally priced the same as
fillets frozen by Alaska shore plants.
● Removing the fat layer results in a whiter fillet that more closely resembles cod.
This also means a lower meat yield, so prices are generally higher for deep-skinned
fillets.
● The quality of pollock-derived imitation seafood varies widely. Less expensive
products may include cornstarch and have high water content, with correspond-
ingly less fish content.
ASSOCIATIONS
At-Sea Processors Association
4039 21st Avenue West, Suite 400, Seattle, WA 98199, Phone: 206–285–5139, Fax: 206–285–1841,
Web Site: www.atsea.org, Email: apa@atsea.org • The At-Sea Processors Association represents the interests of the
large vessels that catch and process Alaska pollock. Its Web site also contains useful information about Alaska pollock.
Anoplopoma fimbria
HIGHLIGHTS
● 75 percent of the
sablefish catch is
Y ou might know sablefish by a few different names, but don’t be fooled.
Sablefish is referred to as black cod, but it’s not a member of the cod family.
It’s also labeled, butterfish—in reference to its smooth, rich texture—but it’s not true
landed off Alaska butterfish either. Instead, sablefish belongs to the family, Anoplopomatidae, which
● High oil content and includes only sablefish and skillfish.
mild flavor make Sablefish is found from central Baja California to the eastern Bering Sea, with
sablefish a perfect about 75 percent of landings taken off Alaska. Japan is a major importer of sablefish
substitute for Chilean (more than 50 percent of the U.S. catch is exported to Japan) and pays a premium
sea bass price for this highly desirable fish. In recent years, however, more U.S. consumers
● Sablefish can be found have begun to appreciate its unique flavor. Kasu cod, or sablefish marinated in sake
in depths close to leeks and grilled, is making its way into U.S. restaurants. Cold-smoked sablefish has
5,000 feet also become a popular delicacy.
Commercial sablefish fisheries in the U.S. and Canada use trawls, longlines, and
traps, with 80 percent of landings caught by longline fishermen.
CONSERVATION NOTES
he Alaska sablefish fishery is managed by the North Pacific Fisheries Management
T Council, which has established an annual individual fishing quota (IFQ) to ensure that
the sablefish fishery remains sustainable. Canada manages its fishery in a similar manner.
Sablefish from Alaska and British Columbia receives high marks from conservation
organizations, since these fisheries are considered well managed and their populations
appear healthy. In fact, the Marine Stewardship Council is currently assessing the Alaska
sablefish fishery for sustainability certification.
Other West Coast sablefish fisheries do not receive such high marks, due to manage-
ment concerns and fishing overcapacity.
IN SEASON
● March 1 to November 30: West Coast SPRING
56 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM PARENT OF
FROZEN: THE YEAR
● Headed and gutted, widely available Sablefish can live up to
94 years, and usually
FRESH: reach reproductive maturity
● Headed and gutted, limited availability March–November by age six. Females can
spawn three to four times
ALSO AVAILABLE: per season, with a seven-
● Fillets, normally pinbone-in, skin-on, fresh or frozen year-old female laying up
● Vacuum-packed kasu cod fillets to 100,000 eggs. But wait
● Cold-smoked fillets another 13 years or so,
and egg production may
increase tenfold, to about
BUYING TIPS a million eggs!
● Large sablefish bring a premium price; its fillet yield is higher and it tends to have
higher oil content.
● Fish caught off Alaska tend to be much larger (average five to seven pounds) than
those from the West Coast (average two to three pounds).
● Longliners bleed and freeze fish at sea, resulting in a high-quality, expensive product.
● Canadian trap-caught sablefish tends to be relatively large and very high quality.
● Sablefish from small trawlers is rarely bled and is prone to bruising, so it’s lower
priced.
ASSOCIATIONS
Canadian Sablefish Association
406–535 Howe Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada, V6C 2Z4, Phone: 604–915–9117, Fax: 604–638–0116,
Web Site: www.canadiansablefish.com • This is an association of Canadian sablefish license holders, promoting wild
sablefish. The Web site provides background information and recipes.
Oncorhynchus tschawytscha
HIGHLIGHTS
● Five species of wild
Pacific salmon are
C hinook salmon, found from the Yukon River in Alaska to central California,
is the largest of the five Pacific species. Also known as “king” salmon, this giant
averages 11 to 18 pounds, though it can grow substantially larger.
readily available in the Chinook commands the highest price of the five species, sought after for its high
U.S. market: chinook, oil content (which varies by region). The amount of oil is directly related to the
sockeye, coho, chum, distance the salmon has to swim to spawn—the greater the distance, the greater its
and pink oil content. Yukon River king salmon, for example, may swim 2,000 miles in 60 days
● Chinook comprises (over 33 miles per day!) to reach its spawning ground in Canada. When caught in the
less than 4 percent of sea, before entering the river, this salmon can have as much as 25 percent oil content,
the total wild Pacific which makes for extremely rich meat.
salmon catch Most Chinook is caught by trollers (hook and line), but a significant amount is
also caught by gill netters.
CONSERVATION NOTES
lthough many salmon stocks on the Pacific Coast are threatened with extinction, others
A are in very good shape. Wild Alaskan salmon stocks are in especially good condition,
with Alaskan salmon fisheries comprising more than 85 percent of wild Pacific salmon
catches in most years. All wild Alaskan salmon have been certified as sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and wild salmon fisheries in British Columbia and
California are currently undergoing MSC assessment.
While a number of Alaska and West Coast salmon fisheries are enhanced with hatchery-
reared fish, the majority of Alaska’s salmon runs are from naturally spawning adult fish.
IN SEASON
● May through September (Alaska is the SPRING
winter
FALL
58 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM YOU ARE WHAT
Available in a variety of product forms, depending on YOU EAT
the species and time of year: White king salmon, once
● Because Alaska salmon runs occur over a relatively short period in extremely remote thought to be inferior, is
regions, over 90 percent of the Alaska catch is either frozen or canned. in fact as rich in flavor as
● Fresh and frozen is mostly available headed and gutted. its pink-hued siblings.
● Alaska processors produce frozen fillets, both pinbone-in and boneless, on a small Salmon flesh color is
scale. affected by its food—
● Smoked products are available from large Alaskan processors and smaller processors king that feeds on sardines
throughout the rest of the U.S. or anchovies has light-
colored flesh; king that
King is graded under 7, 7–11, 11–18, and 18 up. eats mostly krill has
pinker flesh.
BUYING TIPS
The most important thing to keep in mind when buying wild salmon is that no
matter how well fishermen and processors handle their fish, there will still be major
quality differences due to natural variability. The key is not to buy based solely on
species (all chinook is not created equal), but to learn about specific runs and their
characteristics so you can find the perfect salmon for your needs.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org
Oncorhynchus keta
HIGHLIGHTS
● Five species of wild
Pacific salmon are
C hum salmon has the widest geographic range of all Pacific salmon, with runs
in Japan, Russia, and along the Pacific coast of North America from Washington
state to Kotzebue, Alaska (north of the Arctic Circle). Japan is home to the world’s
readily available in the largest chum salmon fishery—annual catch can vary by 25 percent, but in a good
U.S. market: chinook, year, Japan catches 300–500 million pounds of chum, all of which come from salmon
sockeye, coho, chum, hatcheries. The second-largest chum fishery—Alaskan chum fishery—produces about
and pink 85 percent of the U.S. chum catch (the rest is caught in Washington state).
● In a typical year, chum The challenge with chum salmon is not in finding it, but in getting what you pay
accounts for about 15 for. The skin color, flesh color, and oil content of chum vary much more than other
percent of the U.S. salmon species. This is because chum spawns close to the ocean, which means it
wild salmon catch does not build up a large quantity of oil, so the quality of its flesh can change dra-
matically in a short time. The highest-quality chum salmon is called “silver brite,”
referring to its bright, silver skin color (not to be confused with coho, which is often
called “silver”).
The northern Japanese hatchery-based fishery is run by a cooperative that uses
fish traps, which minimize handling and produce a very high-quality product.
CONSERVATION NOTES
lthough many salmon stocks on the Pacific Coast are threatened with extinction, others
A are in very good shape. Wild Alaskan salmon stocks are in especially good condition,
with Alaskan salmon fisheries comprising more than 85 percent of wild Pacific salmon
catches in most years. All wild Alaskan salmon have been certified as sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and wild salmon fisheries in British Columbia and
California are currently undergoing MSC assessment.
While a number of Alaska and West Coast salmon fisheries are enhanced with
hatchery-reared fish, the majority of Alaska’s salmon runs are from naturally spawning
adult fish.
IN SEASON
● Late June (in Alaska) through November SPRING
FALL
60 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM WHY CHOOSE
Available in a variety of product forms, depending on CHUM?
the species and time of year: Chum salmon can be the
● Because Alaska salmon runs occur over a relatively short period in extremely remote best value on the market,
regions, over 90 percent of the Alaska catch is either frozen or canned. if you find it at just the
● Fresh and frozen is mostly available headed and gutted. right time when its skin is
● Alaska processors produce frozen fillets, both pinbone-in and boneless, on a small bright and meat is deep
scale. red. Most chum is sold in
● Smoked products are available from large Alaskan processors and smaller processors supermarkets, although
throughout the rest of the U.S. frozen chum portions can
● Value-added products like marinated steaks and fillets, salmon burgers, and other items be purchased wholesale.
are becoming readily available, especially for chum and pink salmon. Chum has a mild taste
and is perfectly suited for
Chum is graded 2–4, 4–6, 6–9, and 9 up. grilling on a barbecue.
U.S. buyers are unlikely to find Japanese hatchery-based chum in the market.
Chum, also referred to as “dog” or “keta” salmon, averages about eight pounds
and is caught mostly by gill nets or purse seiners.
BUYING TIPS
The most important thing to keep in mind when buying wild salmon is that no
matter how well fishermen and processors handle their fish, there will still be major
quality differences due to natural variability. The key is not to buy based solely on
species (all chum is not created equal), but to learn about specific runs and their
characteristics so you can find the perfect salmon for your needs.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • Promotes major Alaska seafoods, with an
emphasis on salmon. The Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional materials,
and a directory of suppliers.
Oncorhynchus kisutch
HIGHLIGHTS
● Five species of wild
Pacific salmon are
A lso known as “silver” salmon, coho is caught from Oregon to Alaska, mostly
by trollers and gill netters. The coho supply is the lowest of any wild salmon
species, except chinook. In most years, coho accounts for less than 10 percent of U.S.
readily available in the wild salmon catches.
U.S. market: chinook, Coho salmon is less expensive than chinook or sockeye, but are still considered
sockeye, coho, chum, quite high quality. Among the highest-quality coho in the market are Copper River
and pink coho (best in September) and troll-caught, frozen-at-sea coho. Good-quality coho
● In most years, coho should have bright, silvery skin and red flesh, although the skin color of gill net-
accounts for less than caught coho (especially from West Coast) is more variable.
10 percent of U.S. wild Coho is slightly smaller than chum salmon, averaging about seven to eight
salmon catches pounds. Its meat color is a bright red and is considered to be of much higher quality
than chum. Coho that has just started to turn reddish is referred to as “blush” and
may sell at a discount, although it can still be quite high quality (and quite red).
Coho that is fully pigmented is referred to as “redskin” (not to be confused with red
or sockeye salmon).
CONSERVATION NOTES
lthough many salmon stocks on the Pacific Coast are threatened with extinction, others
A are in very good shape. Wild Alaskan salmon stocks are in especially good condition,
with Alaskan salmon fisheries comprising more than 85 percent of wild Pacific salmon
catches in most years. All wild Alaskan salmon have been certified as sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and wild salmon fisheries in British Columbia and
California are currently undergoing MSC assessment.
While a number of Alaska and West Coast salmon fisheries are enhanced with hatchery-
reared fish, the majority of Alaska’s salmon runs are from naturally spawning adult fish.
IN SEASON
● Late July to October SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
62 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM A PERFECT
Available in a variety of product forms, depending on the SHADE OF RED
species and time of year: Coho that has just started
● Because Alaska salmon runs occur over a relatively short period in extremely remote to turn reddish is referred
regions, over 90 percent of the Alaska catch is either frozen or canned. to as “blush” and may sell
● Fresh and frozen is mostly available headed and gutted. at a discount, although it
● Alaska processors produce frozen fillets, both pinbone-in and boneless, on a small can still be quite high
scale. quality (and quite red).
● Smoked products are available from large Alaskan processors and smaller processors Coho that is fully pigment-
throughout the rest of the U.S. ed is referred to as “red-
● Value-added products like marinated steaks and fillets, salmon burgers, and other items skin” (not to be confused
are becoming readily available (but mostly for lower-cost chum and pink). with red or sockeye,
salmon). Redskin sells
Coho is graded 2–4, 4–6, 6–9, and 9 up. at a discounted price,
because its skin turns
a less-desirable, reddish
BUYING TIPS hue as well.
The most important thing to keep in mind when buying wild salmon is that no
matter how well fishermen and processors handle their fish, there will still be major
quality differences due to natural variability. The key is not to buy based solely on
species (all coho are not created equal), but to learn about specific runs and their
characteristics so you can find the perfect salmon for your needs.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • Promotes major Alaska seafoods, with an emphasis
on salmon. The Web site contains useful information, including recipes, promotional materials, and a directory of suppliers.
Oncorhynchus gorbuscha
HIGHLIGHTS
● Five species of wild
Pacific salmon are
P ink salmon are the smallest of the five wild Pacific species—averaging two to
six pounds—but they are the most abundant (found in Russia and Alaska).
In a good year for pinks, more than half of the U.S. commercial wild salmon catch
readily available in the is pink salmon (pink salmon populations are usually higher in odd-number years).
U.S. market: chinook, Because pink returns in very large volumes over a short period, most of it is processed
sockeye, coho, chum, quickly through canning or freezing. Only a limited volume is sold fresh.
and pink Pink has a paler meat color then other species and a more delicate trout-like texture.
● Pink salmon form the As a rule, pink caught in Russian waters has redder flesh than North American pink.
backbone of Alaska’s Fresh or frozen pink salmon may be inexpensive, but its quality is often highly
fisheries variable. Before spawning, pink salmon develops a pronounced “hump,” its skin
turns dark, and its meat quality deteriorates.
CONSERVATION NOTES
lthough many salmon stocks on the Pacific Coast are threatened with extinction, others
A are in very good shape. Wild Alaskan salmon stocks are in especially good condition,
with Alaskan salmon fisheries comprising more than 85 percent of wild Pacific salmon
catches in most years. All wild Alaskan salmon have been certified as sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and wild salmon fisheries in British Columbia are
currently undergoing MSC assessment.
While a number of Alaska and West Coast salmon fisheries are enhanced with hatchery-
reared fish, the majority of Alaska’s salmon runs are from naturally spawning adult fish.
IN SEASON
● July through August SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
64 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
Available in a variety of product forms, depending on
the species and time of year:
● Pink is mostly available frozen or canned
● Fresh, headed and gutted (limited quantity)
● Some processors develop skinless, boneless blocks and frozen portions. The frozen
product tends to be very light in color and has a mild flavor.
● Value-added products like marinated steaks and fillets, salmon burgers, and other items
are becoming readily available.
BUYING TIPS
The most important thing to keep in mind when buying wild salmon is that no
matter how well fishermen and processors handle their fish, there will still be major
quality differences due to natural variability. The key is not to buy based solely on
species, but to learn about specific runs and their characteristics so you can find the
perfect salmon for your needs.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • Promotes major Alaska seafoods with an
emphasis on salmon. The Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional materials,
and a directory of suppliers.
Oncorhynchus nerka
HIGHLIGHTS
● Five species of wild
Pacific salmon are
T he sockeye fishery is the second-largest—and most valuable—wild salmon fish-
ery in North America. While sockeye is caught commercially from Russia to the
Columbia River. About 75 percent of the global catch comes from Alaskan waters,
readily available in the where it is caught by gill net and purse seine fishing boats. The Bristol Bay sockeye
U.S. market: chinook, run in western Alaska, the largest single sockeye fishery in the world, produces more
sockeye, coho, chum, than half of Alaska’s total catch in a few short weeks each July.
and pink Sockeye weighs about three to ten pounds, with an average of six pounds. Sockeye,
● Sockeye is economically also called red salmon, is favored for its bright red meat color and high oil content.
the most valuable (and When purchasing sockeye, however, it is best to know its exact source (Bristol Bay,
second-largest) wild Frasier River, Copper River, Chignik, etc.) because salmon, like wine, varies greatly
salmon fishery in depending on region and production. In general, the farther away from its natal river
North America the fish is caught, the better its quality will be (as oil content will be higher).
CONSERVATION NOTES
lthough many salmon stocks on the Pacific Coast are threatened with extinction, others
A are in very good shape. Wild Alaskan salmon stocks are in especially good condition,
with Alaskan salmon fisheries comprising more than 85 percent of wild Pacific salmon
catches in most years. All wild Alaskan salmon have been certified as sustainable by the
Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), and wild salmon fisheries in British Columbia are
currently undergoing MSC assessment.
While a number of Alaska and West Coast salmon fisheries are enhanced with hatchery-
reared fish, the majority of Alaska’s salmon runs are from naturally spawning adult fish.
IN SEASON
● May through September, peaks in July SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
66 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM COMPETING
Available in a variety of product forms, depending on the WITH FARMED
species and time of year: COHO
● Because Alaska salmon runs occur over a relatively short period in extremely remote In the 1980s, the Chilean
regions, over 90 percent of the Alaska catch is either frozen or canned. salmon farming industry
● Fresh and frozen is mostly available headed and gutted. began sending farmed
● Alaska processors produce frozen fillets, both pinbone-in and boneless, on a small coho to Japan, and wild
scale. Pacific sockeye gradually
● Smoked products are available from large Alaskan processors and smaller processors lost its market share in
throughout the rest of the U.S. Japan. In turn, U.S. sock-
eye processors now rely
Sockeye is graded 2–4, 4–6, 6–9, and 9 up. on the domestic market to
absorb their high-quality,
fresh and frozen sockeye.
BUYING TIPS It is likely that the amount
The most important thing to keep in mind when buying wild salmon is that no of sockeye available in the
matter how well fishermen and processors handle their fish, there will still be major U.S. market will continue
quality differences due to natural variability. For example, a sockeye caught in Bristol to depend on market
Bay Alaska will be smaller and have less oil than a sockeye caught off Central Alaska’s conditions in Japan.
Copper River. The key is not to buy based solely on species (all sockeye is not created
equal), but to learn about specific runs and their characteristics so you can find the
perfect salmon for your needs.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • Promotes major Alaska seafoods, with an emphasis
on salmon. The Web site contains useful information including recipes, promotional materials, and a directory of suppliers.
Sardinops sagax
HIGHLIGHTS
● U.S. landings of Pacific
sardines have soared
T he Cannery Row of John Steinbeck may be gone, but sardines are back. In the
1940s, the Pacific sardine (Sardinops sagax) supply collapsed from a combination
of overfishing and unfavorable environmental conditions. Luckily for sardines, this
from less than two mil- little fish matures quickly and spawns several times a year, enabling it to withstand
lion pounds in 1990 to and recover from these pressures more quickly than other species. Today, sardine
more than 200 million populations on both U.S. coasts are healthy.
pounds in recent years “Sardine” refers to a number of small fish that are part of the herring family, with
● Sardines are named over 20 species sold as sardine worldwide. The Pacific sardine, which is fished from
after the Italian island Mexico to British Columbia, is used for everything from fish bait and fish meal to
of Sardinia in the fresh or canned fish for human consumption. In California, fresh sardine is also
Mediterranean finding favor with some gourmet chefs and consumers.
Sardines are rich in calcium, protein, iron, potassium, phosphorus, and omega-3
fatty acids.
CONSERVATION NOTES
opulations of the small, plankton-feeding, pelagic sardine species such as sardines are
P highly variable because they are dependent on ocean conditions. Recent ocean condi-
tions have been perfect for sardines, and populations in many regions along both U.S.
coasts are high. Regulators consider the Pacific sardine population to be at “high abun-
dance” with no overfishing. Sardines are caught by gill net, seine, and mid-water trawl fish-
ing vessels. For Pacific sardines, there is a limited entry of mostly small vessels targeting
the species.
IN SEASON
● The Pacific sardine fishery operates SPRING
FALL
68 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM PACKED
FRESH: “SARDINE-
● Whole TIGHT”
One theory about why
FROZEN: sardines are traditionally
● Whole packed so tightly is that
● Fillets fish oil is more costly than
the fish itself, so canners
* Also available canned and smoked choose to fill the space
with fish rather than oil.
Whatever the reason,
BUYING TIPS tight-packing sardines is
● Fresh sardines can be tricky to buy, since the fish are very perishable and typically here to stay, even through
are not handled with the utmost care. However, if you can find them, fresh sardines they’re now packed in a
are a sheer culinary delight. variety of oils, including
● Steer clear of sardines with red eyes and reddening around their gill plate; both the olive and soybean.
eyes and the area around the gills should be clear.
● Oil content and flavor vary widely during the year—oil content of Pacific sardines
can fluctuate between 6 and 20 percent. The fattest fish are usually found in
August and September.
HIGHLIGHTS
● The worst time to buy
sea scallops is after
U sually labeled as either bay or sea scallops, there are actually a number of
scallop species available on the U.S. market. True bay scallops (Argopecten
irradians) from New England, however, remain in very short supply; less than 50,000
they have spawned. pounds of meats has been landed in recent years.
The adductor muscle Sea scallops: Most sea scallops (Placopecten magellanicus) sold in the U.S. are wild-
is soft, and discolored caught by boats that use dredges. The largest single fishery for sea scallops is in the
and sheds moisture northeast Atlantic from Canada to Virginia, where more than 600 million pounds of
easily. giant sea scallop are caught each year. Cultured sea scallops from Chile and Peru
(Argopecten purpuratus) are also entering the U.S. market.
Bay scallops: Smaller scallops are often marketed simply as bay scallops, a practice
that allows producers to cash in on the cachet of the true bay scallop, a sweet, nutty-
tasting scallop that is produced in very limited quantities in New England and always
sold fresh. The vast majority of bay scallops consumed in the U.S. are farmed in
China, where the true bay scallop was introduced in the late 1980s.
Other available species: Off Alaska, fishermen catch the weathervane scallop
(Patinopecten caurinus), a sea scallop that produces annual catches of about five to 10
million pounds. A lesser-known small scallop, the calico scallop (Argopecten gibbus) is
CONSERVATION NOTES
ild sea scallops are dredged primarily off cobbled and sandy seafloors, which levels
W structural habitat and often drags up large amounts of bycatch of bottom-dwelling
species such as monkfish and cod.
Scallops farmed on suspended lines have minimal environmental impact and, like other
bivalve mollusks, scallops are filter feeders. Scallops farmed on the seafloor, however, are
often vacuum-dredged—a process that greatly disrupts the seabed and kills or injures
associated bottom-dwelling organisms. In addition, the ecological impact of introducing
non-native scallops, such as bay scallops into China, has been inadequately studied.
IN SEASON
● March to December (heaviest late SPRING
FALL
70 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM SEA SCALLOPS
FRESH: ON THE
● Whole adductor muscle REBOUND
Since a low in the early
FROZEN: 1990s, the sea scallop
● Whole adductor muscle population off the coast
● Half shell with attached roe (coral) of New England has
increased almost twenty-
fold, benefiting from area
caught in very limited quantities in the southeastern U.S. and is even smaller than the closures that were enact-
bay scallop. Calico scallop stocks have almost collapsed from fishing pressure, how- ed to help protect deplet-
ever, and dredging for calicos has disrupted extensive amounts of seafloor habitat. ed groundfish populations.
In recent years, manage-
BUYING TIPS ment of the U.S. sea
● Judging by the number of menus offering diver scallops, one would think thou- scallop fishery off the
sands of individuals catch scallops by hand. In reality, the National Marine Northeast has evolved to
Fisheries Service reported less than 100,000 pounds (live weight) of diver-caught include setting maximum
scallops in 2002. fishing days per year,
● Instead, the term “diver scallop” is often used to refer to a dry scallop that has rotating area closures to
not been treated with sodium tripolyphosphate, a common practice in the protect and regenerate
scallop industry. Scallops treated with phosphates absorb and hold more water, scallop stocks, and issu-
often 20 percent or more. As a result, phosphate abuse has long been a charac- ing equipment regulations
teristic of the scallop business, where even dry scallops are given a quick wash in (mesh size, etc.). As a
tripolyphosphate. result, sea scallop abun-
dance and catches are
both at record levels.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
Paralytic shellfish poison-
ing (PSP) is caused by
eating bivalve shellfish
that is contaminated with
algae containing harmful
toxins. The toxin that
causes PSP cannot be
destroyed by cooking or
freezing. Inquire with your
supplier about routine
testing of products.
Pandalus borealis
HIGHLIGHTS
● The northern shrimp,
or Pandalus borealis,
T he most common species in the Pandalidae family, the northern pink shrimp
(Pandalus borealis) is found in the cold waters of the North Atlantic, North Pacific,
and Arctic oceans. In the Atlantic, it is found from Greenland to Massachusetts.
fishery is the single Catches off Atlantic Canada have tripled over the past decade to almost 300 million
largest coldwater pounds per year, more than half of which is landed off Newfoundland. A small fishery
shrimp fishery, with takes place in winter off Maine, where fishermen catch less than five million pounds
catches of almost 300 per year. In the Pacific, northern shrimp is found from the Bering Sea to Japan. All
million pounds a year northern pink shrimp found in the market is taken from fisheries, not shrimp farms.
Conservation groups rate Newfoundland northern shrimp as a good environmental
choice, as this shrimp is plentiful and well-managed.
Northern pink shrimp is smaller than the more familiar so-called cocktail shrimp
found in the tropics, about five to ten centimeters in length. Coldwater shrimp is
sweet tasting and some consider it to be more flavorful and moister than the com-
mon, tropical variety.
A northern shrimp is born with both male and female sex organs; it begins life as a
male and at about four years, it transforms into a female for the rest of its life.
CONSERVATION NOTES
ost northern shrimp is caught using otter trawls. While these coldwater shrimp trawl
M fisheries do not catch sea turtles (which inhabit warmer water), bycatch of other
species can be a problem in some coldwater shrimp fisheries. The Atlantic trawl fishery—
as is the case with most of the pandalid shrimp fisheries—uses a device known as the
Nordmore grate, which was introduced in the 1990s. The Nordmore grate greatly reduces
the bycatch of groundfish (such as cod), by directing fish to an opening at the top of the
trawl net.
IN SEASON
● The New England northern shrimp fish- SPRING
FALL
72 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Cooked and peeled
● Meat, mostly available in the 100/300 size grades
FROZEN:
● Cooked and peeled (majority of U.S. sales)
● Meat, mostly available in the 100/300 size grades
BUYING TIPS
● In Japan, raw northern shrimp is known as ama ebi (or sweet shrimp).
● A growing percentage of cooked, peeled coldwater shrimp meat is sold fresh.
Most fresh meat is often sold ungraded.
● Most processors that produce cooked, peeled meat use processing additives such as
tripolyphosphates that tend to remove some of the shrimp’s natural flavor.
HIGHLIGHTS
● All spot prawn caught
on the U.S. West
S everal species of big coldwater shrimp, which true seafood savants often enjoy
raw, are fished from Washington state to Alaska. Three species are fished com-
mercially—sidestripe shrimp (Pandalopsis dispar), coonstripe shrimp (Pandalus
Coast are caught using hypsinotis), and spot shrimp (Pandalus platyceros)—all of which may be marketed as
pots, which are consid- spot shrimp or spot prawns. Of the three, spot shrimp is the predominant species.
ered to be the most Unlike other shrimp fisheries, which use trawl nets, the fishery for spot shrimp uses
sustainable fishing pots. Most of the catch is frozen and exported to Japan, but a growing number of
method chefs in the U.S. are choosing spot shrimp for its unique, sweet taste and its texture.
● Catches of spot Bigger spot shrimp, which can average eight to 12 head-on shrimp per pound, produce
prawns in recent years shell-on tails in the 21/25 and 26/30 size grade.
have been at near- The key to a great spot prawn is not overcooking it. It needs only a minute or two
record levels, with one in boiling water to yield the desired firm texture. If you cook it longer, the texture
million pounds landed turns mushy.
in Alaska alone
CONSERVATION NOTES
f all shrimp fishing methods, pots are considered to be the most sustainable, as
O bycatch and environmental effects are minimized. Spot shrimp fisheries are closed
when the females are bearing eggs and during spawning season. In addition, a strict pro-
gram limits the number of fishermen and pots in the fishery. In both British Columbia and
Alaska, catches of spot prawns in recent years have been at near-record levels, with land-
ings of about 4.5 million pounds and one million pounds, respectively. Although the spot
prawn fishery is not currently undergoing assessment by the Marine Stewardship Council,
industry groups are considering applying for certification.
IN SEASON
● Alaska: a short, month-long season SPRING
74 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
● Most spot shrimp is frozen raw whole
in one-kilogram boxes
● A few Alaska processors sell raw, shell-on tails
BUYING TIPS
● Most spot prawn is frozen and exported to Japan, where eye appeal is a top priority.
To ensure that spot shrimp retains its brilliant red color, most of it (especially
head-on product) is treated with a sulfite-based, antioxidant preservative.
● Most spot prawn is frozen immediately on the boat, so its quality is
consistently high.
● Spot shrimp is never cheap, but prices are best in fall, just after the Alaskan
season ends.
● Grading can vary among suppliers, so make sure you get an accurate count per
pound and don’t rely on terms such as jumbo or extra large.
HIGHLIGHTS
● The U.S. is the largest
importer of farmed
S hrimp is the most consumed seafood in the U.S. To fill this burgeoning
demand, U.S. shrimp buyers have had to rely in large measure on imported
product, primarily from environmentally detrimental farming operations in
shrimp Southeast Asia and Latin America.
● Currently, a handful A small number of U.S. shrimp farmers have been developing better practices for
of U.S. shrimp farms shrimp culture. For example, some of these farmers use closed-system, inland opera-
have begun to produce tions rather than farming shrimp along coastal areas. Some have also received organic
shrimp in a more certification by meeting current U.S. organic standards for livestock, as there is no
environmentally friendly current organic standard for aquaculture. Some of these operations use saltwater,
manner than foreign brackish water, or freshwater to raise Pacific white shrimp (Penaeus vannamei) and
shrimp producers black tiger shrimp (Penaeus monodon), while others grow freshwater shrimp
(Macrobrachium rosenbergii).
Driven by European demand, shrimp farmers in Southeast Asia and Latin America
now produce “certified organic shrimp” in increasing quantities. Although still a very
small as a percentage of overall production, this organic farmed shrimp is expected to
grow rapidly in the future. Labeling this shrimp as organic on the U.S. market is quite
controversial however, as the U.S. has no organic standards for aquaculture. (See the
Glossary for more information on current status of the organic label for seafood.)
CONSERVATION NOTES
ost shrimp-farming practices in Southeast Asia and Latin America have numerous
M environmental and social effects, such as destruction of important coastal habitat,
spread of wastes and antibiotics into the surrounding environment, and competition for
land. Several organizations are working to develop better shrimp-farming standards and
practices, which may result in a greater supply of shrimp farmed with less harmful environ-
mental impact.
IN SEASON
● Highly seasonal, with fresh shrimp SPRING
FALL
76 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Live
● Whole
● Headless (shell on or off)
FROZEN:
● Headless (shell on or off)
BUYING TIPS
● Buying shrimp from inland shrimp farmers in the U.S. may be frustrating at first.
Many farmers are small mom-and-pop operations that may or may not answer the
phone regularly; however, perseverance can pay off in the form of fresh sweetwater
shrimp with a local cache.
● Expect to pay a premium for organic shrimp. In the U.S. in particular, shrimp farm-
ing is an expensive and risky undertaking, and producers have to receive a substan-
tial enough premium to stay in business. Imported organic shrimp is considerably
cheaper because the farms producing it have much lower production costs.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Dover and English sole
are the most popular
P acific sole is a catchall descriptor for a number of flatfish that are caught in the
waters off Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon, and California.
Pacific sole is not true sole but is related more closely to the flounder. Whether called
types of sole in the U.S. flounder, flatfish, or sole, the Pacific species are abundant in Alaska and can be an
excellent substitute for the more scarce Atlantic flatfish.
Yellowfin sole (Limanda aspera): The most plentiful, and smallest, of the Pacific
sole, yellowfin is taken by factory trawlers fishing the Bering Sea. Since this flounder
averages less than a pound, it results in a small, two- to four-ounce fillet. Most yel-
lowfin is frozen at sea as headed and gutted fish and sent to China, where it is thawed
and filleted before being re-exported to the U.S.
Rock sole (Pleuronectes bilineatus): Larger than yellowfin, rock sole is also caught
by trawlers in the Bering Sea, with females and roe sent to Japan and males sent to
China for reprocessing into fillets.
Flathead sole (Hippoglossoides elassodon): Larger than many of the Pacific sole,
flathead yields four- to six-ounce fillets that are very white with a firm texture and
most closely resemble true European sole.
Alaska plaice (Pleuronectes quadrituberculatus): Although it is caught almost
exclusively as bycatch, Alaska plaice is readily available. A larger-sized flounder that
CONSERVATION NOTES
ince 1987, U.S. groundfish catches in the Bering Sea—which include sole, pollock, and
S cod—have been limited to a two million metric ton ecosystem cap. Since fishermen
prefer more profitable species like pollock and cod, these flatfish, including sole, have been
fished far below their allowable catch levels, ensuring an abundant flatfish population.
While flatfish populations in this region seem to be doing well, fishing methods for
Pacific sole are a concern. Sole is caught by bottom trawls, which generally have negative
effects on seafloor habitat.
IN SEASON
● Available periodically throughout SPRING
the year.
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
78 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Whole, headed and gutted; dressed (head-on, boneless)
● Fillets (west coast)
FROZEN:
● Skinless, boneless fillet (usually twice-frozen), in block form or individually frozen (IQF)
● Whole, headed and gutted; dressed (head-on, boneless)
yields six- to eight-ounce fillets, this fish is considered to be one of the better-quality
flatfish caught off Alaska.
Dover sole (Microstomus pacificus): Not to be confused with the European Dover
sole (Solea vulgaris), the Pacific Dover sole is larger in size (reaches eight pounds but
usually caught at two pounds or smaller) but lacks the subtle flavor and firm texture
of its European relative.
Rex sole (Errex zachirus): Available in limited quantities, rex sole has a taste and
texture similar to the East Coast gray sole and is often cooked whole.
BUYING TIPS
● Quality of flatfish varies greatly; the highest-quality fillets should have uniform
color and no bruising.
● When buying Alaska plaice, skinless is best as the skin of this fish harbors bacteria
that can generate an undesirable odor.
ASSOCIATIONS
Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute (ASMI)
311 N. Franklin St., Suite 200, Juneau, AK 99801, Phone: 800–478–2903, Fax: 907–465–5572,
Web Site: www.alaskaseafood.org, Email: info@alaskaseafood.org • The Institute promotes all major Alaska seafoods,
including North Pacific sole. The ASMI Web site contains a variety of useful information, including recipes, promotional
materials and a directory of Alaskan sole suppliers.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Striped bass along
the Atlantic coast were
S triped bass (Morone saxatitis) is a popular east coast commercial and recre-
ational fish. Hybrid striped bass—which results from crossing striped bass
with white bass (M. chrysops)—has a similar appearance to wild striped bass, but it
formally declared can be distinguished by its disjointed stripes, different from the smooth, uninterrupt-
restored in 1995 after ed stripes of the wild striped bass. The market size of hybrids is about one to three
being severely depleted pounds. Hybrid striped bass has a mild texture and a milder flavor than that of its
during the 1980s by wild cousin.
overfishing and poor Commercial fishermen catch striped bass with a variety of gear, including gill nets,
water quality pound nets, haul seines, and hook and line.
● About two-thirds of the Hybrid striped bass are grown in freshwater tanks, ponds, and raceways in a num-
striped bass sold in ber of states. The largest U.S. facility, in the California desert, recycles 85 percent of
markets is produced the water it uses, and accounts for 30 percent of the total U.S. supply. Farming in
by aquaculture and inland freshwater ponds also involves minimal environmental risk. A carnivorous
referred to as hybrid species, hybrid striped bass is raised on a diet that typically contains 18–35 percent
striped bass fish meal (which is of some concern, as hybrid striped bass require additional wild
fish for feed), with the remainder as grain-based proteins.
CONSERVATION NOTES
triped bass spawn in freshwater, making wetlands habitat a critical element in sustain-
S ability. At one time the Chesapeake Bay region accounted for nearly 90 percent of the
striper nursery ground. After record catches of almost 15 million pounds in 1973, catches
of stripers fell to less than one million pounds by 1990. Thanks to conservation efforts,
stocks have rebounded and the annual catch has remained steady over the past six years
at approximately six million pounds. Currently, commercial and recreational fisheries are
considered well managed and not overfished.
IN SEASON
● Wild: Fished year-round, peak season SPRING
80 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
WILD:
● Fillets
HYBRID:
● Live
● Fresh whole
● Fresh fillets (year-round)
BUYING TIPS
● Hybrids grown in earthen ponds can have a muddy taste if growers do not moni-
tor water quality.
● While hybrid striped bass prices are relatively stable, there are some good buys in
the eastern U.S. from time to time when growers harvest their entire ponds.
● Expect to pay more for hybrid striped bass raised in closed-circulation systems, as
production costs are higher.
AVAILABILITY OF HYBRIDS
The supply of hybrid striped bass is limited and is priced accordingly. Approximately
12 million pounds (live weight) of hybrid striped bass are farmed in the U.S. annually.
Supply has grown very slowly over the past decade and is unlikely to increase signifi-
cantly in the near future.
HEALTH
ADVISORY
There are numerous state
and local advisories cau-
tioning all women, men,
and children about con-
sumption of wild striped
bass due to PCBs, mercu-
ry, and pesticides.
See page 131 for the list of
Striped bass suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 81
Sturgeon, White (farmed)
Acipenser transmontanus
HIGHLIGHTS
● White sturgeon is also
called Pacific sturgeon,
S turgeon, the largest of the bony fish, is easily recognized by its five rows of
bony plates, called scutes, along its body: one row along the mid-back, one
along the middle, and one along the lower body on each side. Various species are
Oregon sturgeon, found in U.S. waters and include, for example, Atlantic and shortnose sturgeon along
Columbia sturgeon, the East Coast; gulf sturgeon throughout the Gulf of Mexico; and white sturgeon
and Sacramento along Pacific shores. While sturgeon is especially known for caviar, some sturgeon
sturgeon meat is served smoked, canned, or fresh.
● The largest wild white Similar to its Caspian cousin, various populations of sturgeon, including white
sturgeon on record sturgeon, are in danger of extinction in North Americas as a result of overfishing, loss
weighed more than of habitat, and restricted access to spawning areas because of dams and pollution.
1,500 pounds and The greatest numbers of white sturgeon are in the lower Columbia River, where com-
was 20 feet long mercial fishing is allowed. Even though this one population is abundant and stable,
● Sturgeon grow only there is some risk of collapse due to its vulnerability to overexploitation and changes
about one inch per in the environment.
year, but it can live The good news is that sturgeon—primarily white sturgeon—is now farmed along
100 years or more, the U.S. West Coast in freshwater, closed-system tanks that release minimal effluent
allowing it to grow to into surrounding waterways. Farmed white sturgeon is generally smaller than its
mammoth size wild cousins and can take ten to twelve years to reach a marketable size (about ten
pounds). Farmed sturgeon has a firm, steak-like texture and a very mild flavor. When
cooked, sturgeon meat appears to be almost white.
See Caviar for more information on ocean-friendly, farmed white sturgeon caviar.
CONSERVATION NOTES
onservation organizations recommend farmed white sturgeon (and white sturgeon
C caviar) as a better environmental choice than wild-caught sturgeon, including the highly
sought after Caspian sturgeon (and their caviar). It is hoped this relatively new supply of
farmed sturgeon will help relieve pressure on wild stocks.
IN SEASON
● Processed to order year-round SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
82 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Bullets (head, tail, fins, spines removed)
● Steaks
● Fillets
BUYING TIPS
● White sturgeon’s internal skeleton is composed of cartilage instead of bone,
making it ideal as a steak or fillet.
● Most buyers purchase bullets to optimize portions by performing the final cut
themselves.
● Farmed sturgeon can have a muddy taste if a farm does not monitor water quality
appropriately.
HIGHLIGHTS
● All tilapia found in the
U.S. market is farmed
T ilapia, or “St. Peter’s fish,” is a living relic. References to and drawings of tilapia-
like species date to the time of pharaohs. Some biblical scholars believe that the
fish Jesus multiplied in the Sea of Galilee was none other than tilapia, and tilapia
● Fresh is usually from farming may predate the farming of any other fish species.
Latin America (mostly Tilapia’s mild taste, adaptability, and relatively low cost have led it become one of
Ecuador) the top 10 seafoods consumed in the U.S. Today, tilapia is farmed on a large scale in
● Frozen is almost more than 50 countries, with an annual production of approximately 1.4 million
always from Asia metric tons. Most farms are freshwater, although tilapia can survive in both fresh and
(mostly China) brackish water.
● Most common Most tilapia is grown in relatively high-density earthen ponds; however, some farms
species: Nile tilapia use floating cages in lakes or estuaries. In the U.S., tilapia producers also use extremely
and Mozambique environmentally responsible systems, known as closed recirculating systems.
tilapia
CONSERVATION NOTES
ilapia is a plant eater and can grow quite well on a grain-based diet, so it places no
T additional pressure on wild fish populations, although some farmers do add a small
amount of fish meal to their feed. The feed conversion ratio for tilapia is excellent, ranging
from 1.2 to 1.7 pounds of dry feed per one pound of tilapia.
Several tilapia growers in the U.S. and Asia are attempting to develop organic tilapia.
This product will likely not be available in the U.S., however, until final farmed standards for
organic seafood are in place.
IN SEASON
● Available year-round SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
84 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM A TILAPIA
FRESH: FRATERNITY
● Live Some tilapia farmers
● Whole treat their fingerlings with
● Fillets methyl testosterone (MT),
a hormone that ensures
* U.S. farmers usually produce only fresh whole or live fish, due to strong the entire crop is male.
competition with imported fillets. They do this to eliminate
breeding, which reduces
FROZEN: the growth rate of the fish.
● Whole While the hormone is
● Fillets, including value-added, marinated and breaded fillets excreted from the fish
within a month and is
* Tilapia fillets are usually available in graded sizes of 3–5 ounces, 5–7 ounces deemed safe by the U.S.
(most common), and 7–9 ounces. Food & Drug Administration,
some buyers have
stopped buying tilapia
BUYING TIPS treated with MT. Tilapia
● Tilapia tastes like the water in which it’s raised. The best quality tilapia has a very farmers are currently
clean taste. researching alternatives
● Ecuadorian producers sell mostly deep-skinned fillets with the brown fat layer to MT treatments.
removed, while Latin American producers leave the fat layer intact. Skin color
varies but is unrelated to flesh color or taste
● Nile tilapia, known as nilotica or black tilapia, has dark skin. Mozambique tilapia,
or red tilapia, has reddish skin.
● Most Asian producers treat frozen fillets with carbon monoxide to give it a reddish-
pink hue. These fillets are often sold as sashimi-quality izumi dai (snapper) tilapia,
although they are almost never true sashimi quality and definitely not snapper.
ASSOCIATIONS
American Tilapia Association
111 W. Washington St., Suite 1, Charles Town, WV 25414, Phone: 304–728–2167,
Web Site: www.ag.arizona.edu/azaqua/ata.html • Provides general information, including contact information for
local growers
Oncorhynchus mykiss
HIGHLIGHTS
● All rainbow trout in the
U.S. market is farmed
T here are two types of rainbow trout in the wild: those that live in freshwater and
those that are seagoing. Seagoing rainbow trout, known as “steelhead,” return
to their natal river to spawn, but unlike Pacific salmon, these trout return to the
● Rainbow trout is the ocean after they spawn.
most common trout in European monks started the tradition of farming trout almost four centuries ago,
the market although trout farming really took off in the second half of the 20th century. Today,
● Other, less readily all commercial rainbow trout in U.S. markets is farmed. You might catch wild “steel-
available farmed head” in your local market, but it’s pretty rare.
choices: brown trout If the rainbow trout in your market is from the U.S., there’s a good chance it was
and brook trout grown in concrete raceways (which provide fish with the constantly flowing water they
need to thrive). In 2003, more than 68 percent of the market-size trout sold in the U.S.
originated from the Magic Valley region along Idaho’s Snake River Canyon. Western
North Carolina is also a center of trout farming, with more than 60 commercial farms.
Outside the U.S., as much as one-third of trout is grown in saltwater net pens or
cages; trout farmed in this manner is sold as “steelhead” or “salmon-trout.” Future
increases in U.S. trout supply are likely to be trout farmed in this manner from Chile
and Peru. This is of concern since net pen and cage systems can have harmful
environmental impacts, which include polluting local waterways with fish feces and
uneaten feed.
CONSERVATION NOTES
onservation organizations give a good mark to rainbow trout raised in freshwater
C ponds or raceways. Still, there is some concern over waste from farms entering local
waterways. Currently, the U.S. EPA is tasked with managing effluent from trout farming
operations, and states such as Idaho have taken on this task at the state level.
IN SEASON
● Available year-round, although smaller SPRING
FALL
86 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM YOU ARE WHAT
FRESH AND FROZEN:* YOU EAT
● Whole, eviscerated with head on Currently, farmed trout
● Whole boned (head-on, backbone removed but pinbone-in) is fed feed that includes
● Skin-on, pinbone-in fillets wild fish meal and fish oil,
● Skin-on, boneless fillets which puts some pressure
● Smoked, fresh only on wild fish populations.
Periodic inclusion of
* Fresh and frozen rainbow trout is available year-round, through distributors antibiotics and pigments
* A number of online wholesalers also offer fresh and frozen trout products in the feed may also con-
cern some buyers. If you
share this concern, look
BUYING TIPS for regional trout farmers
● Extremely controlled production and processing of farmed trout results in a who avoid animal-based
uniformly high-quality product. feeds and limit or elimi-
● For a more regional emphasis, look for locally grown trout in your area. Many nate antibiotics and
local trout growers, however, sell only on-site or through local farmers markets. synthetic pigments.
● Buyers should be aware that trout raised in earthen ponds may develop an “off-
flavor” from algae if the pond is not managed correctly or if the trout is not tested
before going to market.
● Rainbow trout meat is mild, with a delicate, almost nutlike flavor. Its flesh can be
white, pink, or orange. When cooked, trout meat has a delicate flake and a pale
coloration.
ASSOCIATIONS
U.S. Trout Farmers Association
111 West Washington St., Ste. 1, Charles Town, WV 25414, Phone: 304–728–2189, Fax: 304–728–2196,
Web Site: www.ustfa.org, Email: ustfa@frontiernet.net • The United States Trout Farmers Association Web site lists
local trout producers as well as recipes and other information on trout farming.
HIGHLIGHTS
● Pole-caught ahi results
in significantly less
F ound throughout the warm waters of the world, yellowfin tuna (Thunnus
albacares) is best known in a can (as light meat tuna) although it is also popular
eaten raw or lightly seared. High-quality yellowfin and bigeye tuna (Thunnus obesus)
bycatch than purse are both marketed using their Hawaiian name, ahi. The largest tuna fishery in the
seined or longlined ahi U.S. takes place in the waters off Hawaii, where about 10 million pounds of ahi tuna
are landed each year, about 75 percent of which is bigeye. Yellowfin and bigeye can
grow to over 400 pounds, but most of the commercial catch consists of fish that are
less than 100 pounds.
Approximately 80 percent of eastern Atlantic yellowfin is caught by purse seiners,
with smaller quantities caught in the western Atlantic and Pacific, most of which ends
up in cans. While purse seine vessels have had to adopt fishing methods to substan-
tially reduce dolphin mortality, incidental catch is still high. There is also a bigeye
seine fishery off the west coast of South America that targets immature tuna.
In the U.S., approximately 70 percent of yellowfin catch is longlined. In 2002 and
2003, Hawaii tuna catches were at near record levels. In an effort to reduce turtle and
sea bird bycatch the longline fleet has been forced to alter fishing methods.
CONSERVATION NOTES
he most recent recommendations from conservation groups list pole- or troll-caught ahi
T as a best environmental choice, since yellowfin and bigeye populations have been sta-
ble and these fishing methods minimize bycatch. Conservation groups are more cautious in
their recommendation of longline ahi, due to concern over bycatch associated with this type
of gear. New evidence suggests that bigeye and yellowfin tuna in the Pacific cannot sustain
additional fishing pressure.
IN SEASON
● Available year-round SPRING
WINTER SUMMER
FALL
88 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Whole loins or chunks of loins in a
specified weight
FROZEN:
● Steaks and whole loins; available treated with tasteless smoke
(prevents browning of flesh) or untreated
BUYING TIPS
● Buying fresh ahi can be tricky because grading is very subjective and prices vary
widely, depending on grade.
● Top sashimi–grade, fresh ahi is almost always shipped to Japan and brings a
premium price.
● Best buys on ahi are normally in late summer and early fall, when Hawaiian
catches peak.
● For frozen ahi, it’s best to stick with the tasteless smoke product because the
alternative is fish that has been treated with carbon monoxide (CO), which can HEALTH
be used to enhance the color of lower-grade tuna. ADVISORY
● Very limited amounts of pole-caught ahi are available in the market. Consumption advisory
due to mercury levels.
According to the U.S.
Food & Drug
Administration:
● Women should limit
their intake to four
meals per month
● Men should limit their
intake to three meals
per month
● Children ages 0–6
should limit their
intake to one meal
per month
● Children ages 6–12
should limit their
intake to two meals
per month
See page 134 for the list of
Ahi suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 89
Tuna, Albacore
Thunnus alalulunga
HIGHLIGHTS
● Albacore tuna is the
only canned tuna that
W hile commonly known as the white meat tuna in a can, albacore tuna is
also available fresh and frozen as firm, meaty, omega-3-rich steaks.
Albacore is a medium-size tuna averaging 10 to 40 pounds in the commercial
is allowed to be mar- catch. Depending on its size, albacore meat is either light brown or bright pinkish
keted with the “white” red. Off the west coast of the U.S., trollers fish for small albacore that have light
label, rather than the brown meat. Albacore caught by longline in the South Pacific and Hawaii is usually
other, familiar “light” larger and its meat is pinkish red instead of light brown. Longlined albacore is often
label marketed under its Hawaiian name, tombo or tombo ahi. Both large and small albacore
● The U.S. is the largest are popular served raw.
market for canned While frozen albacore is widely available, obtaining fresh or frozen troll-caught
tuna in the world fish may require a little extra effort. During the fishing season, many West Coast fish-
ermen sell their catch directly to consumers at major fishing ports in Washington,
Oregon, and California.
CONSERVATION NOTES
lbacore tuna is widely dispersed and does not “school” in dense quantities like other
A tuna. Thus most albacore is caught by longline fishing or trolling, rather than by purse
seine. Longline fishing for tuna in the South Pacific and Hawaii is of major concern to
conservation groups and some scientists because it results in the bycatch of endangered
species such as sea turtles and sharks, in addition to many species of billfish, seabirds,
and marine mammals. Trolling results in much less bycatch than longlining.
As is the case with other tuna (and most other migratory, pelagic fish) there is no set
quota for albacore even though albacore populations in the North Atlantic are considered
overfished.
IN SEASON
● Troll-caught albacore from the west SPRING
90 Sourcing Seafood
PRODUCT FORM
FRESH:
● Loins and steaks, headed and gutted (imported)
FROZEN:
● Loins and steaks, whole fish (limited)
BUYING TIPS
● Fresh troll-caught albacore should be bled on landing to produce the highest quality
tuna. This process causes the flesh to remain lighter in color and more appealing.
If you can see flecks of blood (“ants” in industry jargon), the fish was not bled.
● All canned albacore is not created equal. Imported canned albacore is cooked
twice: large canneries cook the fish, pick the meat, can it, and cook it again. On the
west coast of the U.S., most albacore canneries are small operations that put raw HEALTH
albacore chunks in the can, then cook them in their own juices. ADVISORY
Consumption advisory
HISTAMINE WARNING due to mercury level.
Albacore, along with other tuna, contains the amino acid histidine in its flesh, which According to the U.S.
turns into the common allergen histamine after the fish dies. A toxin, histamine can Food and Drug
cause mild to severe allergic reactions in individuals with sensitivity to this allergen. Administration:
Proper handling of albacore is essential for food safety; albacore stored above 40oF ● Women should limit
for an extended period will produce histamine (production is faster at higher temper- their intake to three
atures). Histamine cannot be eliminated by cooking, freezing, or smoking contami- meals per month
nated fish. ● Men should limit their
intake to two meals
per month
● Children 0–12 should
limit their intake to
one meal per month
ASSOCIATIONS In contrast, a 2003
Western Fishboat Owners Association (WFOA) Oregon State University
P.O. Box 138 , Eureka, CA 95502, Phone: 707–443–1098, Fax: 707–443–1074, Web Site: www.wfoa-tuna.org,
study found that west
Email: wfoa@cox.net • A California-based nonprofit organization representing 400 family owned hook-and-line (troll)
albacore fishing boats, including fishermen from California, Oregon, Washington, British Columbia, Alaska, Hawaii, Tahiti, coast troll-caught albacore
and New Zealand. The WFOA assists in promoting troll-caught albacore tuna. For a list of albacore fishermen who sell has low levels of mercury
their fish direct, visit www.albatuna.com.
in its edible flesh, well
Pacific Coast Federation of Fishermen’s Associations (PCFFA)
within international
P.O. Box 29370, San Francisco, CA 94129, Phone: 415–561–5080, Fax: 415–561–5464, Web Site: www.pcffa.org,
Email: fishlifr@aol.com • A federation of port and fishermen’s associations from San Diego to Alaska, assuring fisher- standards for mercury
men’s rights and fighting for the survival of commerical fishing as a way of life. levels in fish.
See page 134 for the list of
Albacore suppliers.
The Fish and Shellfish Guide 91
Sourcing Seafood
Sourcing Seafood
Supplier Director y
By Species
ABALONE (FARMED):
There are currently only a few U.S. producers of farmed
abalone, but farmers in Hawaii and British Columbia may
have product to offer in the near future.
94 Sourcing Seafood
EcoFish, Inc. Simmons Farm Raised Catfish
78 Market St. 2628 Erikson Rd.
Portsmouth, NH 03801 USA Yazoo City, MS 39194 USA
P: 603–430–0101 (877–214–FISH) P: 662–746–5687
F: 603–430–9929 F: 662–746–8625
www.ecofish.com jmiller@simmonscatfish.com, www.simmonscatfish.com
96 Sourcing Seafood
Deep Creek Custom Packing Inc. CAVIAR, TROUT (FARMED):
P.O. Box 229
Ninilchik, AK 99639 USA
Contact: Jeff Berger
P: 907–567–3980
F: 907–567–1041
dccp@ptialaska.net, www.deepcreekcustompacking.com
BLIS LLC
Interior Alaska Fish Processors
2400 Davis Rd. BliS offers discriminating chefs and retailers Omble de
Fairbanks, AK 99701 USA Fontaine, a semiwild smoked brook trout and roe drawn
P: 907–456–3885 from proprietary brood stock.
F: 907–456–3889
akhunt@ptialaska.net, www.santassmokehouse.com The trout is fed a diet of specially formulated feed and
allowed to swim free in low-density, spring-fed limestone
Nor thern Keta Caviar Co. ponds enriched with a natural population of freshwater
2601 Channel Dr. shrimp and mayflies. In addition, BliS offers wild steelhead
Juneau, AK 99801 USA and salmon caviar from sustainable fisheries. When sourc-
Contact: Elisabeth Babich ing a product, BliS first learns about the condition of the
P: 907–586–6095 fish habitat and then determines if it can be brought to
F: 907–586–6094 market according to the company’s ethical and sustainable
caviar@alaska.net, www.northernketa.com standards.
98 Sourcing Seafood
Cedar Key Aquaculture Farms, Inc. Marshall Point Sea Farm, LLC
11227 East Riverview Dr. P.O. Box 285
Riverview, FL 33569 USA Port Clyde, ME 04855 USA
P: 352–543–9131 Contact: Karl Eschholz
F: 352–543–9132 P: 207–372–8443
custserv@cedarkeyclams.com, www.cedarkeyclams.com F: 207–372–0513
seafarm@gwi.net
Cherr ystone Aqua Farms
P.O. Box 347 Nautical Nuggets Clam Farms
Cheriton, VA 23316 USA P.O. Box 134
Contact: Tim Parsons Oceanville, NJ 08231 USA
P: 757–331–1208 P: 609–652–7725
F: 757–331–4366 mathisclamfarm@aol.com
clams@infionline.net
Noank Aquaculture Cooperative
EcoFish, Inc. 100 Main St.
78 Market St. Noank, CT 06340 USA
Portsmouth, NH 03801 USA Contact: Jim Markow
P: 603–430–0101 (877–214–FISH) P: 860–460–4558
F: 603–430–9929
www.ecofish.com Phillips Seafood
Rt. 1, Box 1672
EcoFish offers a variety of seafood products. Townsend, GA 31331 USA
For a complete list, see their profile on page 133. Contact: Charlie Phillips
P: 912–832–4423
French’s Clam Co. Ltd. pseafood@darientel.net
P.O. Box 28
Lund, BC V0N 2G0 Canada Shellfish for You
Contact: Bob Paquin 227 Shore Rd.
P: 604–483–2063 Westerly, RI 02891 USA
F: 604–483–2022 Contact: Jeffrey Gardner
graceh@prcn.org P: 401–322–7280
shellfish4U@ids.net
Gordon’s Shellfish LLC
P.O. Box 336 Taylor Shellfish Farms
Pocomoke, MD 21851 USA 130 SE Lynch Rd.
Contact: Stephen Gordon Shelton, WA 98585 USA
P: 410–726–1202 Contact: Bill Taylor
F: 410–957–1303 P: 360–426–6178
sgordon@mafi.com F: 360–427–0327
orders@Taylorshellfish.com, www.taylorshellfish.com
Imperial Eagle Clam Company Ltd.
6980 Seabrook Rd. Wash-A-Shore Oyster Ranch
Saanichton, BC V8M 1M6 Canada P.O. Box 1079
P: 250–652–5166 South Wellfleet, MA 02663 USA
F: 250–652–2725 Contact: Capt. R. Andrew Cummings
rtryon@telus.net P: 508–349–0819
andrew@outercapewaterman.com, www.outercapewater-
J&B AquaFood, Inc. man.com
16 E Bayshore Blvd.
Jacksonville, NC 28540 USA
Contacts: Jim & Bonnie Swartzenberg
P: 910–347–7240
F: 910–347–7240
oyster@coastalnet.com
Burhop’s Seafood
1515 Sheridan Rd.
Wilmette, IL 60091 USA
Contact: Jeff Burhop
P: 847–256–6400
NELSON CRAB F: 847–901–4017
www.burhops.com
A third-generation, family-owned business, Nelson
Crab is located in the village of Tokeland on the Caito Fisheries
Washington coast. P.O. Box 1370
Fort Bragg, CA 95437 USA
Under the watchful eye of Kristi Nelson, Nelson Crab Contact: Jim Caito
produces truly fresh Dungeness crabmeat (not picked P: 707–964–6368
from previously frozen sections) and fresh and frozen F: 707–964–6439
Dungeness whole cooks and sections. Nelson also caitofsh@mcn.org, www.caitofisheries.com
offers a variety of hand-packed gourmet canned seafood,
including all-natural, low-mercury albacore that is single- EcoFish, Inc.
cooked in its own juices; cooked coldwater shrimp meat; 78 Market St.
boneless wild canned salmon; and shad roe. Nelson Portsmouth, NH 03801 USA
sells to distributors and sends seafood overnight to P: 603–430–0101 (877–214–FISH)
restaurants and retailers. F: 603–430–9929
www.ecofish.com
P.O. Box 520
Tokeland, WA 98590 USA EcoFish offers a variety of seafood products.
P: 800–262–0069 For a complete list, see their profile on page 133.
F: 541–267–2921
seatreats@techline.com Fishhawk Fisheries
P.O. Box 715
Astoria, OR 97103 USA
Contact: Steve Fick
P: 503–325–5252
F: 503–325–8786
fishhawk@ideal-web.com
Brady’s Oysters
OYSTERS: 3714 Oyster Pl.
Suppliers below offer oysters from a variety of regions. Aberdeen, WA 98520 USA
Contact: Mark Ballo
P: 360–268–0077
F: 360–268–9828
sales@bradysoysters.com, www.bradysoysters.com
EcoFish offers a variety of seafood products. Bill Weber is a Cordova, Alaska, fisherman who markets
For a complete list, see their profile on page 133. his catch directly to markets in the Lower 48.
Favco, Inc. All fish sold by Gulkana is processed onboard Bill’s boat,
1205 W 29th Ave. the F/V Gulkana. Each fish is bled and layer-iced on board.
Anchorage, AK 99503 USA Two hours after each opening, Bill is back in Cordova
Contact: Greg Favretto boxing up fresh sockeye, king, and silver salmon from the
P: 907–278–1525 Copper and Bering rivers and air freighting it to buyers
F: 907–276–6626 throughout the U.S. who understand—and appreciate—
greg@favco.net, www.favco.com truly fresh salmon that is handled with the utmost care
from the minute it comes out of the water.
Fishhawk Fisheries
P.O. Box 715 P.O. Box 1230
Astoria, OR, 97103, USA Mile 6 1/4, Copper River Hwy.
Contact: Steve Fick Cordova, AK 99574–1230 USA
P: 503–325–5252 P: 907–424–5106
F: 503–325–8786 sales@GulkanaSeafoodsDirect.com ,
fishhawk@ideal-web.com www.GulkanaSeafoodsDirect.com
Old Ocean Shrimp Company Offers Dover sole (fillet and whole) and Rex sole (fillet,
517 N 8th St. whole, and dressed)
Midlothian, TX 76065 USA
P: 972–723–0295 Global Seafoods Nor th America LLC
Information@oldoceanshrimpco.com, www.oldoceanshrimp- 11100 NE 8th St., #310
co.com Bellevue, WA 98004 USA
Contact: Nikolay Osokin
Penbur Farms P: 425–451–3705
3415 Clovis Ave. F: 425–451–1067
Clovis, CA 94612 USA osikin@globalseafoods.com, www.globalseafoods.com
P: 559–292–1354
F: 559–292–1454 Ocean Beauty Seafoods Inc.
jimpenfield@penbur.com, www.penbur.com P.O. Box C–70739
Seattle, WA 98127 USA
Permian Sea Shrimp Company Contact: Jim Yonker
P.O. Box 448 P: 206–285–6800
Imperial, TX 79743 USA F: 206–281–5897
Contact: Bart Reid randy.cade@oceanbeauty.com, www.oceanbeauty.com
P: 432–536–2216
patsy@west-tex.net, www.permianseashrimp.com Pacific Seafood Group
16797 SE 130th Ave.
Clackamas, OR 97015 USA
SOLE, PACIFIC: Contact: Steve Spencer
Check with these suppliers for information on this West P: 503–905–4500; 800–388–1101
Coast alternative to more limited East Coast flatfish. F: 503–905–4228
sspencer@pacseafood.com, www.pacseafood.com
Bornstein Seafoods Inc.
P.O. Box 188 Peter Pan Seafoods, Inc.
Bellingham, WA 98227 USA 2200 Sixth Ave.
Contact: Colin Bornstein Seattle, WA 98121 USA
P: 360–734–7990 Contact: Steve Chartier
F: 360–734–5732 P: 206–728–6000
colin@bornstein.com, www.bornstein.com F: 206–284–7474
stevec@ppsf.com, www.ppsf.com
Burhop’s Seafood
1515 Sheridan Rd. Trident Seafood Corporation
Wilmette, IL 60091 USA 5303 Shilshole Ave.
Contact: Jeff Burhop Seattle, WA 98107 USA
P: 847–256–6400 Contact: Joe Bundrant
F: 847–901–4017 P: 206–783–3474
www.burhops.com F: 206–782–7246
sales@tridentseafoods.com, www.tridentseafoods.com
Burhop’s Seafood EcoFish has carved out an important niche within the
1515 Sheridan Rd. U.S. seafood market as a wholesaler of seafoods exclu-
Wilmette, IL 60091 USA sively from environmentally sustainable fisheries.
Contact: Jeff Burhop
P: 847–256–6400 EcoFish has a strong commitment to promoting ecological-
F: 847–901–4017 ly responsible seafood consumption. In carrying out their
www.burhops.com mission, EcoFish’s independent Seafood Advisory Board
researches and recommends well managed fisheries to
Clear Springs Foods, Inc. EcoFish, ensuring the products they offer are from sustain-
P.O. Box 712 able fisheries. In addition, EcoFish donates a percentage
Buhl, ID 83316 USA of its sales to communities and organizations around the
P: 208–543–4316 world that promote sustainable fishing practices.
F: 800–635–8211
csf@clearsprings.com, www.clearsprings.com EcoFish offers a large variety of ocean-friendly seafoods
including: catfish (farmed), clams (farmed), Pacific cod
The largest trout producer in the U.S., with nationwide distri- (line/pot caught), Dungeness crab, Alaskan halibut
bution of fresh, frozen and value-added trout products. Call (longline), mahimahi (troll/handline), mussels (farmed),
the names of local suppliers. oysters, Alaskan sablefish (longline), Alaskan salmon
(all species), scallops (farmed), shrimp (farmed/organic,
EcoFish, Inc. northern pink, spot prawns), rainbow trout (farmed), ahi
78 Market St. tuna (troll/handline), and albacore tuna (troll/handline).
Portsmouth, NH 03801 USA
P: 603–430–0101 (877–214–FISH) 78 Market St.
F: 603–430–9929 Portsmouth, NH 03801 USA
www.ecofish.com P: 603–430–0101 (877–214–FISH)
F: 603–430–9929
EcoFish offers a variety of seafood products. www.ecofish.com
For a complete list, see their profile on page 133.
Alphabetical Listing
10th & M Seafoods Anchorage AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific); Halibut,
Pacific
AA1 Alaska Fish Homer AK U.S. Cod, Pacific
The Abalone Farm Cayucos CA U.S. Abalone, red (farmed)
Acadian Fishermen’s Co-op Association Wellington PEI Canada Sardines
Acadiana Fisherman’s Cooperative Breaux Bridge LA U.S. Crawfish
Aero Trading Port Edward BC Canada Shrimp, Northern Pink
Aero Trading Co. Ltd. Vancouver BC Canada Sablefish
Aeros Southold NY U.S. Oysters
Agassiz Aqua Farms Oakville ON Canada Arctic char
Airfresh Seafoods Gig Harbor WA U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific); Halibut,
Pacific
AK Johnston Oysters Denman Island BC Canada Oysters
Alaska Fresh Seafoods, Inc. Kodiak AK U.S. Sablefish
Alaska Glacier Seafoods, Inc. Juneau AK U.S. Cod, Pacific; Halibut, Pacific; Sablefish;
Shrimp (Spot Prawns), Trap-caught
Alaska Hook & Line Seafoods Sitka AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific); Cod,
Pacific; Halibut, Pacific; Sablefish;
Shrimp (Spot Prawns), Trap-caught
Alaska Seafood Company Juneau AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Alaskan Marine Resources Cordova AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Albion Fisheries, Ltd. Vancouver, BC Canada Sablefish
All American Gulf Fish Company Fort Walton Beach FL U.S. Mackerel, Atlantic or Spanish
Allen’s Seafood Harpswell ME U.S. Lobster, American
American Mussel Harvesters, Inc. North Kingstown RI U.S. Mussels
America’s Catch Itta Bena MS U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
Andersen Foods Intl. Ltd. Delta BC Canada Sablefish
Anguilla Fish Farm Hastings FL U.S. Striped Bass, Hybrid
AQE Fishermen’s Market Sitka AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific); Halibut,
Pacific
Aquafarms Holdenville OK U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
Aquafresh Farms of Mississippi Moss Point MS U.S. Tilapia
Ariel Seafood, Inc. Destin FL U.S. Mackerel, Atlantic or Spanish
Arizona Mariculture Associates LLC Dateland AZ U.S. Shrimp, U.S. (farmed)
Arpeggio’s Cordova AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Arrowac Fisheries, Inc. Seattle WA U.S. Sablefish
Atchafalaya Crawfish Breaux Bridge LA U.S. Crawfish
Atlantic Fish Corporation Boca Raton FL U.S. Mackerel, Atlantic or Spanish
Austin Bros. Fisheries Aurora NC U.S. Striped Bass, Hybrid
Avery’s Bay Clams Galloway NJ U.S. Clams; Oysters
B&B Oysters Fanny Bay BC Canada Oysters
Bama Sea Products, Inc. St. Petersburg FL U.S. Crab, Stone; Mackerel, Atlantic
or Spanish
Bandon Pacific Bandon OR U.S. Crab, Dungeness
Bantry Bay Seafoods Ltd. Bantry County Ireland Mussels
Cork
Barnacle Seafood Co. Fort Lauderdale FL U.S. Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye)
Coal Point Seafood Company Homer AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific); Cod,
Pacific; Halibut, Pacific; Shrimp,
Northern Pink; Shrimp (Spot Prawns),
Trap Caught
Coast Island Seafoods Qualicum Bay BC Canada Sablefish
Coast Seafoods Company Bellevue WA U.S. Oysters
Coastal Cold Storage Petersburg AK U.S. Halibut, Pacific; Shrimp, Northern
Pink; Shrimp (Spot Prawns), Trap Caught
Coastal Villages Seafood, LLC Anchorage AK U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Coastwide Fishing Ltd. Richmond BC Canada Sablefish
Collins Caviar Chicago IL U.S. Caviar: Paddlefish (farmed), Salmon
(wild Pacific) and Trout (farmed)
ConFish Inc./Country Select Catfish Isola MS U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
Connor’s Bros., Ltd. Blacks Harbor NB Canada Sardines
Cook Inlet Salmon Brand, Inc. Soldotna AK U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Cook’s Lobster House Bailey Island ME U.S. Lobster, American
Copper River Seafoods Anchorage AK U.S. Cod, Pacific; Halibut, Pacific
Cortes Island Wild Harvest Mansons Landing BC Canada Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Cossack Caviar LaConnor WA U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Cox Seafood Tarpon Springs FL U.S. Crab, Stone
Cozy Harbor Seafood Inc. Portland ME U.S. Lobster, American; Shrimp,
Northern Pink
Daley Brothers Ltd. St. John’s NL Canada Crab, Snow
Deep Creek Custom Packing Inc. Ninilchik AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Deep Sea Fish of Rhode Island, Inc. Wakefield RI U.S. Flounder, Summer (Fluke); Mackerel,
Atlantic or Spanish
Deep Sea Fisheries, Inc. Everett WA U.S. Crab, King; Sablefish
Delta Pride Catfish Indianola MS U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
Desert Sweet Shrimp Farm Gila Bend AZ U.S. Shrimp, U.S. (farmed)
Desolation Sound Oysters Ltd. Bowser BC Canada Oysters
Di Carlo Seafood Company Wilmington CA U.S. Lobster, Rock and Spiny
Douty Bros. Inc. Portland ME U.S. Lobster, American
Duxbury Bay Shellfish Co. Duxbury MA U.S. Oysters
EcoFish, Inc. Portsmouth NH U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed); Cod, Pacific;
Clams; Crab, Dungeness; Halibut, Pacific;
Mahimahi; Mussels; Oysters; Sablefish;
Salmon, Pacific (wild); Scallops; Shrimp;
Trout, Rainbow (farmed); Tuna, Ahi
(Yellowfin/Bigeye); Tuna, Albacore
Ekone Oyster Co. South Bend WA U.S. Oysters
Enaca International, LLC Medley FL U.S. Tilapia
Everjay Shellfish Co. S. Wellfleet MA U.S. Oysters
F.A.S. Seafood Producers Ltd. Victoria BC Canada Sablefish
F.W. Bryce, Inc Gloucester MA U.S. Sardines
Favco, Inc. Anchorage AK U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Fish Breeders of Idaho Hagerman ID U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed); Caviar, Trout
(farmed); Tilapia
Fisherman’s Express LLC Anchorage AK U.S. Cod, Pacific
Fishermen’s Heritage Lobster Co-op Friendship ME U.S. Lobster, American
The Fishery Galt CA U.S. Sturgeon, White (farmed)
Fisher’s Island Oyster Farm Fisher’s Island NY U.S. Oysters
Fishery Products International St. John’s NL Canada Crab, Snow; Shrimp, Northern Pink
Fishhawk Fisheries Astoria OR U.S. Crab, Dungeness; Sablefish; Salmon,
Pacific (wild); Shrimp, Northern Pink
Fishing Vessel Alpha Dawn Wrangell AK U.S. Halibut, Pacific
Fishing Vessel Patricia S Gustavus AK U.S. Halibut, Pacific
Fogo Island Co-Operative Society Ltd. Seldom, Fogo Island NF Canada Sardines; Shrimp, Northern Pink
Free Range Fish & Lobster Portland ME U.S. Lobster, American
French’s Clam Co. Ltd. Lund BC Canada Clams
Fresh Island Fish, Inc. Kahuluhi HI U.S. Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye); Tuna,
Albacore
Fruge’s Cajun Crawfish Company Branch LA U.S. Crawfish
Garden Valley & Isle Seafood Honolulu HI U.S. Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye)
Global Seafoods North America LLC Bellevue WA U.S. Sole, Pacific
Gordon’s Shellfish LLC. Pocomoke MD U.S. Clams; Oysters
The Great Eastern Mussel Farms, Inc. Tenants Harbor ME U.S. Mussels
Great Little Oyster Company Ltd. Powell River BC Canada Oysters
Great Northern Products Ltd. Warwick RI U.S. Crab, Jonah (Rock) and Snow; Shrimp,
Northern Pink
Greene Prairie Aquafarm Boligee AL U.S. Shrimp, U.S. (farmed)
Greenhead Lobster LLC Stonington ME U.S. Lobster, American
Gulkana Seafood Direct Cordova AK U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
H&N Foods International San Francisco CA U.S. Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye); Tuna,
Albacore
H. Glenwood Evans & Son Crisfield MD U.S. Sardines
Hallmark Fisheries Charleston OR U.S. Crab, Dungeness; Sablefish; Salmon,
Pacific (wild); Shrimp, Northern Pink
Hama Hama Co. Lilliwaup WA U.S. Oysters
Haring’s Pride Wisner LA U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
Harrietta Hills Trout Farm Harrietta MI U.S. Trout
Hawaii International Seafood, Inc. Honolulu HI U.S. Mahimahi; Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye)
Heartland Catfish Itta Bena MS U.S. Catfish, U.S. (farmed)
High Flutin’ Oyster Co., Ltd. Powell River BC Canada Oysters
Hilo Fish Company, Inc. Hilo HI U.S. Mahimahi; Tuna, Ahi (Yellowfin/Bigeye);
Tuna, Albacore
Hi-To Fisheries Ltd. Vancouver BC Canada Shrimp (Spot Prawns), Trap-caught
Hog Island Oyster Co. Marshall CA U.S. Oysters
Horst’s Seafood, Inc. Juneau AK U.S. Halibut, Pacific; Sablefish
Icelandic USA Inc. Norwalk CT U.S. Arctic char
Icicle Seafoods, Inc Seattle WA U.S. Crab, Dungeness; Crab, King; Crab,
Snow; Sablefish
Icy Strait Seafoods, Inc. Bellingham WA U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild); Shrimp
(Spot Prawns), Trap-caught
Idaho Trout Company Buhl ID U.S. Trout
Imperial Eagle Clam Company Ltd Saanichton BC Canada Clams
Indian River Aquaculture Vero Beach FL U.S. Shrimp, U.S. (farmed)
Interior Alaska Fish Processors Fairbanks AK U.S. Caviar, Salmon (wild Pacific)
Interocean Seafood Co. Seattle WA U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Intersea Fisheries West Seattle WA U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Islamorada Lobster & Stone Crab Islamorada FL U.S. Crab, Stone
Enterprises, Inc.
Island Lobster, Ltd. Gloucester MA U.S. Lobster, American
Island Seafoods Kodiak AK U.S. Cod, Pacific; Halibut, Pacific
J&R Fisheries Seward AK U.S. Halibut, Pacific; Sablefish
J&B AquaFood, Inc. Jacksonville NC U.S. Clams; Oysters
Jessie’s Illwaco Fish Company Ilwaco WA U.S. Crab, Dungeness; Sardines; Shrimp,
Northern Pink, Tuna, Albacore;
Kalamar Seafood Inc. Hialeah FL U.S. Mahimahi
Katama Bay Oyster Co. Edgartown MA U.S. Oysters
Kent SeaTech Corporation San Diego CA U.S. Striped Bass, Hybrid
Key Largo Fisheries Key Largo FL U.S. Crab, Stone
Key West Seafoods Key West FL U.S. Crab, Stone
Keyport Foods LLC Seattle WA U.S. Crab, Snow
Keys Fisheries, Inc. Marathon FL U.S. Crab, Stone; Lobster, Rock and Spiny;
Mackerel, Atlantic or Spanish
King’s Seafood Inc. Port Orange FL U.S. Mackerel, Atlantic or Spanish
Kodiak Salmon Packers Donald OR U.S. Salmon, Pacific (wild)
Labrador Fishermen’s Union Shrimp Co. Ltd. Lanse au Loup NL Canada Shrimp, Northern Pink
his guide couldn’t come at a more critical time for the ocean. Sourcing Seafood is a
T useful tool for people, such as myself, who are trying to make responsible seafood
decisions whenever possible. It makes purchasing seafood—and feeling good about it—
a whole lot easier.
Rick Moonen, Executive Chef/Partner
Restaurant RM (New York, NY)
recycled paper
printed with soy inks