Alimentare led la 220V ca

http://www.azp.ro/scheme-electronice/automatizari/100-alimentare-led-la-220v-ca.html

Alimentarea directa a unui led la 220V se poate face in doua moduri:

   - prin inserierea cu un condensator nepolarizat de 0,1uF/400V
   - prin inserierea cu o rezistenta de 33Kohmi / 3W
Ledul mai are nevoie de o dioda cuplata antiparalel cu el, astfel incat ledul sa conduca la o
semialternanta si dioda la cealalta semialternanta. Daca se foloseste un led intermitent, atunci se va
monta antiparalel cu el o zioda zenner. Circuitele de mai jos se pot monta si pe un intrerupator, astfel
incat sa se aprinda ledul cand becul este stins. Varianta cu condensator NU se va monta pe contactele
unui intrerupator, daca sarcina acestuia este inductiva, sau aleatorie. 
 

 
Atentie, Pericol de electrocutare. Nu atingeti circuitul si componentele cand faceti teste.
How to use burnt Compact Florescent Light Circuit
Module
Note and precautions: CFL's contain mercury which is hazardous material, so it should be handled accordingly 
Most CFL lamps, electronic circuits are working perfect and are still useable, only the bulb goes defective. CFL circuit of 18-
24 Watts are useful for the activation ofreplacement type two feet 18-20 Watt Florescent Tube Light bulb.

Find a CFL
You will need a CFL as shown in picture. Any CFL of which bulb is defective, broken or has outlive its life is useful for this
modification. Drive voltage may be according to your country 110 Volt or 220 Volts. In my country (Pakistan) voltage standard
is 220/230 Volts.

Disassemble
Disassemble the CFL as shown in the picture. Note there is a single pair of wires/connections which goes to the 110/220
Volts. other side has two pair of wires 9four wires) these will be connected to the replacement type 20 Watt 24" Florescent
Light bulb. After disassembling you will need electronic module from it. Check carefully there are no burnt parts on it. Using
multimeter check its diodes, fuse etc. some time fuse is found melted you can replace it or bridge with a very thin copper
wire. 

NOTE;- DO IT IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH ELECTRIC/ELECTRONICS EXPERIENCE

Parts required
You will need a replacement type Florescent Light bulb of 18 or 20 Watts type and hardware to hold the tube bulb and
ofcourse salvaged electronic module from the CFL.
CFL module wiring
Rewire appropriate length of wires as shown, say about 4 to 6 inches.

Mounting and Assembling

mount the parts and assemble. Note the CFL module shold be mounted on an insulated plate. I used a piece of Plexiglas and
fixed the CFL module with a hot glue on it. For extending connections, use terminal blocks.

Connect to light up
Now after assembling check all connections taking care there should be no loose connection. Now power up!!!. I have
assembled three such units successfully.
How to make your own LED lightbulbs
a tutorial to making factory-made-look-a-like LED bulbs. 

After many attempts to make all sorts of LED-conversions I finnaly found one solution that is simple and efficient. Of course,
you do need a great amount of patience in making this but when you consider the countless hours of pure light -low
consumption you'll get, it's all worth it. This tutorial is about converting regular GU4(MR11) halogen bulbs to LED bulbs while
maintaining full usability as 12V light bulbs that can be used in indoor task or accent lighting.

step 1You'll need the following stuff to start working:

- one halogen bulb (burnt or new since they are really cheap) with no glass cover on front. 
- LED's - as many as you want. You may want to keep this number reasonable since more than 22 LED's will make you work
painful. 
- online acces to http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz , a great LED array calculator you can use to figure out the resistors you'll need
depending on your number of LED's and the supply voltage. 
- Super Glue & compound glue. You can use other glue as well but super glue sticks fast and I recomend it. 
- solder wire, moderate soldering skills, solder gun 
- one small piece of 0.2mm aluminium sheet (this is used in printing industry, I work in this field and there are a lot of
aluminium plates around here). Any offset printing shop will be kind enough to give you a used one since they use hundreds
each month. A cut-out Coca-Cola can will do, once you straighten it.
- a paper perforator (office type, 2-hole punch) 
resistors (depending on your needs) 
- a few other common household items along with a good amount of patience.

step 2Step one - empty the bulb.

Start by taking a small screwdriver and twisting its tip on the white cement you'll see around the bulb's pins. This cement is
very fine and will start crumbe as a fine powder as you keep twisting the screwdriver's tip. 
Proceed with this until you get enough cement out for the next phase.

i
step 3
Patience is a virtue so take you time and be gentle since the bulbs can easily break if you force you way in with the
screwdriver. 

Action time. Take a hammer and after you got out out as much white cement you could, put the bulb face-down on a flat
surface. Hit the two pins with the hammer, in a easy but ferm manner. The bulb inside should fall on the table leaving the
reflector empty. 

Some white cement will remain but that's OK, it's not so important and might even be useful later. 

step 4Step two - make your holding disc.

Put the empty reflector aside since it's time to get to another task. It's now time to make the LED support. 

You'll need a template so make yourself one OR download the attached PDF file featuring all the layouts you could use with
this kind of bulb. I used graphic software to evenly distribute the 5mm holes on the disc. The disk size is up to you. More led's
will require larger disks. 

Print the template on paper and cut it out with paper scissors. Place it on the aluminium sheet and light glue it on its surface.
This will be useful to cut the disc properly. 

Take the aluminium sheet and cut out the holes using a office perforator. I found out mine cuts exactly 5mm holes in paper so
for 5mm LED's it's perfect. Keeping it upside down, place the template along with the aluminium disc glued on it inside it. Cut
out the holes after aligning the circles in the cutting hole. This should be easy and fairly quick. For this tutorial, I'll use 22
LEDs and a disk diameter of 4 cm. In this picture you can see another disk I made for 15 LEDs. It's easy and if you practice a
little you can make this in minutes. 

Just to avoid any errors, this IS NOT a heatsink! This kind of LED bulb will not heat at all! That's because the dissipated
power is VERY small. 
step 5
The aluminium sheet will serve as a light reflector and a holder for LEDs in the same time so take care not to bend it. After
cutting out the holes its time to see how the led's should be connected. 

Go to http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz and fill in the fields with your parameters. Here's a screenshot of what the wizard
reccomended for my 22 LEDs 12V array. So now I know how to connect them.

step 6Assembling the LED plate

Place the aluminium disc in some holding device (I have one like the one in the photo and it's great). Be creative with this,
basically you have to hold the disc by its outer rims. For example, a pipe section with proper diameter will do. 

Insert the Leds into the holes with the legs up and arranged in such a manner that one cathode is next to another anode. This
will make soldering easy. Don't forget this or you will have great difficulties soldering them according to the scheme. 

Put one tiny drop of Super Glue on each led margin and continue arranging the other ones. WARNING! Take care not to
accidentally apply super glue on the LED legs. When you'll have to solder the legs, these will be heated and the glue will give
off a little colourless smoke with major effects on your eyes! I know, i've done that and couldn't stopped crying for one hour. I
think that's how they make that tear gas after all ... 
step 7
After all LED's are placed and glued, put compound glue around each LED for a solid result. It is necessary to glue them
firmly since the legs will have to be bended and you'll risk some leds to come off otherwise. (that's experience speaking) Now
let the glue to harden before proceeding. In my case this meant 24 hours but the result was worth it. 

Step three - making connections 

Take one nailclipper and cut out the LED legs, keeping in mind that one anode will have to be bent over to the next cathode
and so on. Also take care not to confuse the two of them. You can check that with one multimeter set to diodes. As the
scheme advises, I'll have to make 5 strings of 4 LEDs each and one string of two. Since I arranged the leds in such a fashion
that one cathode is next to another anode, this operation is much easier. After soldering one string, keep the end legs at
different lenghts to easily identify the + and the - end. 

Take the nailclipper and cut the LED legs and bend them to the next leg. The + goes to a - and so on until you complete a
string of four. Then start a new string. 

step 8
When you're done making all the strings according to the scheme, you should have six + legs longer than the six - ones. It's
time to solder the resistors. But first bend the longer legs toward each other and solder them to have all the + legs connected
together. This should be done over the other connections keeping some distance to prevent short-circuits. The resistors
should be soldered vertically to the - legs. 

When soldering, try to be as quick as possible sice you'll be heating the LED legs close to their base and too much heat will
damage them. 

Now solder the resistors legs to each other in order to get a single - that goes to all the strings. Try to keep a low profile so
that the whole thing will fit the bulb. 

Now solder the final legs. Use copper wire (thicker) and keep in mind that one (-) has to be shorter. 

The whole thing should now be pretty rigid since so many solderings were made. But for your peace of mind, use a hot glue
gun to fill the gaps so that no wire accidentally touches another. This is optional. 
step 9
Now take the empty bulb and put the LED disc inside. The space should be enough if you maintained a low profile when
soldering. 
It should fit perfectly. Push the LEDs until the disc touches the inner reflector. Hold it still and get the compound glue now. 

I used some bicomponent glue but any glue with increased consistency should do. 
Just make sure it's strong enough since it will be the only thing that holds the bulb in one piece. Fill the space around the legs
coming out of the bulb with as much glue it will take. 

Wait until the glue hardens. In my case it took 10 min. and I held the LEDs pressed in the whole time. After it hardened, use a
permanent marker to write on the base the + and - legs as well as the voltage it will use. 

step 10
Now cut the legs so that it matches the original bulb legs, equal in lenght. 

Job done! It's time for a test. Connect the bulb to a 12V battery (car or anything else providing that voltage). Hold your breath
and... 

It's working! The photo actually does not display the amount of light generated as it's blinding if you stare into it directly. 
I had to seriously under-expose to make this visible. You can use any type of 5mm LED to make ledbulbs just make sure you
know the forward voltage and current since it will be necessary when calculating resistors. I made blue, red, yellow and white
ones, with successful results. I also made 6V LED bulbs I use in flashlights, replacing the entire flashlight mirror with one of
this bulbs. In this case, the current consumption should be ( according to the scheme ) 220mA. It actually uses only 200 mA,
or at least that's what my multimeter says. 

Here are some LED bulbs I made, 12V and 6V ones. They generate virtually no heat and the most powerful one I made takes
12V@200mA and has 6 pcs. of 0,5W LED's. These LEDs were pretty expensive but the light output is great. 

The type of LED's you use is important since a more dispersed light will be better than a concentrated one. You could also
file the LEDs prior to making the bulb so as to have a more uniform light. These LED bulbs can also be used in 12V AC spot
lamps if you don't mind the 50Hz flicker. But the best results will come out from 12V DC. 

ALTA LAMPA CU LED-URI

, dar alimentata la 12 V

White wires are AC12V from transformer. AC is converted in DC with Graetz diodes, full wave, After that is 8 lines of 4
LEDs ...voila!
 http://www.instructables.com/id/BlinkLED/step3/Program-the-PIC/

Turn Your 12V DC or 85-265V AC Fluorescent Light To LED - Part 1 (Internals)

One of my 12V fluorescent light ballasts in my RV burned out. I decided to replace it with LEDs using 6 cheap LEDs, a couple
LED drivers, and usinghttp://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-Low-Voltage-Bi-Pin-Halogens-with-LEDs/ as a guide. The
parts were all purchased from DealExtreme.

This is Part 1 where I will hook up the LEDs. In Part 2 , I dress up the exterior of the light with bamboo and acrylic.

Tools & Materials:

Fluorescent Light
6x LEDs (or as many as you want, in multiples of 3 per driver) - $20.16
2x LED Drivers - 12V / 85-265V - $5.04-6.64
1x Switch - $2.99 (optional)
12x #4-40 x 1/4" Screws - $1.96 (Home Depot)
12x Non-conductive washers (optional, Home Depot or RadioShack may carry)
1x tube thermal paste - $7.77

Total: ~$30-35

You can re-use the switch but I chose to purchase a different switch so that I can install it on the outside of the bamboo box I
plan to make in Part 2. The screws I initially used were computer screws I already had but I switched to the screws I found at
Home Depot because they included nuts. I included the non-conductive washers because I had some issues with shorts with
the large head of the screws I initially used. While there shouldn't be a problem with the #4-40 screws from Home Depot, I
decided to play it safe.

Other Tools & Materials:

Solder Paste 
Soldering Iron 
Epoxy 
Liquid Tape
Wire cutter/stripper 
Wire 
Drill and 1/8" bit (optionally, 7/32" bit, too)

This list is what I used but all you really need is solder/solding iron and some wire (you can salvage some from the
fluorescent light but I chose to leave it intact).

step 2Prepare the Fixture

I started by removing the fluorescent light and measuring out 2.5" intervals (for an 18" light). I then placed the LEDs on the
fixture and marked out two screw holes each. For the #4-40 screws, I used 1/8" bit to drill out each hole.

Attach the LEDs

After drilling out the holes, make sure the LEDs line up with the holes. As long as they do, put a small amount of thermal
paste (such as Arctic Silver) on the back, place the LEDs over the holes and attach the screws (use the optional non-
conductive washers in this step if you wish).

Prepare the LED Drivers

For this light I used two LED drivers, each driving three LEDs. To reduce the amount of wire and simplify things, I soldered
the + pin of the drivers to each other and the - pin of the drivers to each other. This is only necessary if you get the 12V driver
meant for halogen bi-pin lights (shown below). The 85-265V AC driver has wires soldered on. For the bi-pin drivers I used,
the color of the wire on the same side of the pin lets you know which pin is + and which is -.

On one of the drivers, I soldered a switched wire (red) and a ground wire (black). If you are re-using the built-in switch, solder
to that. Otherwise, in preparation for enclosing the fixture in a bamboo box (Part 2), I drilled a 7/32" hole in the side of the
fixture and attached the red wire to the new switch. I also threaded a second red wire back from the switch into the fixture for
attaching to 12V.

Solder
I started with the "left" half of the light. 
1. The - of the driver (upper right of photo) was soldered to the - of the closest LED.
2. The + of the same LED was soldered to the - of the middle LED.
3. The + of the middle LED was soldered to the - of the left LED.
4. The + of the left LED was soldered to an extension wire connected to the + of the driver.

I then repeated the above steps with the "right" half of the light.

Clean Up
To finish up, I epoxy'd the drivers to the fixture, covered any exposed wire/solder I thought might short out with liquid tape,
attached the driver's black wire and the switched red wire to a 12V source, attached the fixture to the ceiling, and put the
cover back on. All done with Part 1!
Done!
Done! Stay tuned for Part 2 where I enclose the fixture in a bamboo box and replace the plastic lens with a replacement
made out of acrylic.

Troubleshooting:
I had a few issues with LEDs not lighting up due to shorts. I believe my problems had to do with using excessive amounts of
soldering paste. Just scrape away all the excess and everything should work great!