2020 04 01 - Trail

SIMPLY
NO
COMPROMISE
MANUFACTURERS OF
THE UK’S BEST-SELLING
TECHNICAL OUTDOOR
SOCKS.
www.bridgedale.com
| | 23 ES
HI SE
FO LL NT
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PR ILL L
ING S
SPRING 2020 £4.70
NEW
SNOWDONIA
THE UK’S
TRAIL
BEST-SELLING
HILLWALKING
MAGAZINE
(BY MILES)
C
A
▲
Snowdon’s
best walking Y LLIWEDD
ascent – the Fun scrambling
South Ridge Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel
Mountaineering history in
NIGHT 1 a wonderfully quirky inn
NANTLLE RIDGE
Optional extra, ▲
scrambly and scenic
▲
YR ARAN
Rugged satellite
peak of Snowdon
NANT GWYNANT
Cwellyn Arms
Rhyd-Ddu C R A F LW Y N
Disused Fire-side dinner and
quarry awesome puddings
BEDDGELERT
Peace and F OR E S T Waterfalls
solitude! & woodland
MOEL LEFN
▲ Northern tip of the
Moel Hebog ridge
NIGHT 2
MOEL YR OGOF ▲
Dramatic chasm
←
MOEL HEBOG Surprisingly
Sea & Snowdon views
▲ rocky descent
Tanronnen Inn Beddgelert For full details of this epic new

Peak to Pub trail, turn to page 22
Cosy pub in riverside and
mountain village location
FREE WELCOME TO
STOVE!
Sign up for a year of
Trail and we’ll send
you a Primus stove
worth £100!
See page 36
Would you like to wake up
TOM BAILEY
here? Of course you would.
Find out how on page 120.
THE CALL OF THE WILD

We all go to the mountains for different reasons. with old friends for hours on end, and generally
The challenge, the scenery, the adventure, the making myself feel like a kid again. And that’s
fitness, the benefits to our mental health, the thrill also why I love this issue of Trail. We’ve made our
of an overnight wild camp, the warm embrace of very own 4-day pub crawl through North Wales,
that post-walk pub. I could go on forever. For me the compiled a list of our favourite places to sleep
mountains are all about fun, a place to break away wild, pioneered a new route up a busy Lakeland
from the daily life to-do list and scurry around icon, explored the stunning Scottish summits
doing something awesome for a few days. nobody ever notices, and to top it all off
I love scrambling along knobbly ridges, we’ve collected a big pile of Primus stoves
waking up in weird places, peeping off to send out if you sign up for a whole
the top of tall cliffs, watching big birds year of adventure with Trail. Enjoy!
of prey glide through the sky, jumping Oli Reed, editor
in cold pools of water, talking rubbish (Twitter @the_outdoordad)
Cover photograph: Castell y Gwynt, Snowdonia, by Tom Bailey.
EDITOR’S PICKS
Jenna Maryniak takes Ronald Turnbull Tom Bailey takes
on the enviable task celebrates the 250th you on a grand tour of
of test-driving birthday of Romantic England’s two highest
our new Peak to poet Wordsworth, who mountains in this month’s
Pub Trail through also turns out to be a Walk of a Lifetime on
Snowdonia p22 hardcore hillwalker p56 the Scafells p113
SPRING 2020 TRAIL 3

22
Peak to Pub: Snowdonia
Walk Trail’s new 4-day route,
climbing Snowdonia’s greatest
mountains by day and relaxing
Trail, H Bauer Publishing, Media House, Lynch Wood, in its greatest pubs by night
Peterborough, PE2 6EA Email trail@bauermedia.co.uk
Prefix all 6-digit phone numbers with 01733
EDITORIAL
01733 468205
Editor Oli Reed
Deputy editor Jenna Maryniak
Art editor Louise Parker
Head of publishing Shane Collins
Senior writer Ben Weeks
Senior editorial assistant Sara Herbert-Mattick
Photographer Tom Bailey
Map illustrator Steve Hall
ADVERTISING
Commercial manager Anna Skuse (468435)
anna.skuse@bauermedia.co.uk
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Printers William Gibbons
Distribution Frontline (555161)
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01858 438884 (UK) or +44 1858 438884 (overseas)
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H BAUER PUBLISHING
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Lisa Hayden
CEO Bauer Publishing UK Rob Munro-Hall
FEATURES
6 Peak of the Month
The mighty Scafell range
Trail is published 13 times a year by H Bauer Publishing.
38
No part of the magazine may be reproduced in any form in whole or in part,
without the prior permission of Bauer. All material published remains the 8 Base Camp
copyright of Bauer and we reserve the right to copy or edit any material
When to call Mountain Rescue he void
submitted to the magazine without further consent. The submission of material
(manuscripts or images etc) to Bauer, whether unsolicited or requested, is get one of Lakeland’s
taken as permission to publish that material in the magazine, on the associated
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11 Nature notes t peaks all to yourself
editions of the magazine published by our licensees elsewhere in the world. Celebrating little mountain
42
By submitting any material to us you are confirming that the material is your own
original work or that you have permission from the copyright owner to use the birds with big personalities
material and to authorise Bauer to use it as described in this paragraph.
24 hours of adventure
You also promise that you have permission from anyone featured or referred to in
the submitted material to it being used by Bauer. If Bauer receives a claim from 14 Outdoor opinion Grab your bivvy bag and
a copyright owner or a person featured in any material you have sent us,
we will inform that person that you have granted us permission to use the
Mary-Ann makes a plea for head to the Peak District
relevant material and you will be responsible for paying any amounts due to
the copyright owner or featured person and / or for reimbursing Bauer
footpaths past and present for a wild night in the hills
48
for any losses it has suffered as a result.
16 Mountains for the Mind
Please note, we accept no responsibility for unsolicited material which is lost
or damaged in the post and we do not promise that we will be able to return any Mental health – out in the open Scotland’s secret summits
material to you. Finally, while we try to ensure accuracy of your material when A celebration of the seldom-trodden
we publish it, we cannot promise to do so. We do not accept any responsibility for
any loss or damage, however caused, resulting from use of the material 18 Out There peaks south of the Highlands
as described in this paragraph.
Adventure stories from you lot
56
COMPLAINTS: H Bauer Publishing is a member of the Independent Press
Standards Organisation (www.ipso.co.uk) and endeavours to respond to and
resolve your concerns quickly. Our Editorial Complaints Policy (including full
20 Everest Anywhere Wordsworth the walker
details of how to contact us about editorial complaints and IPSO’s contact Join our challenge to climb the
details) can be found at www.bauermediacomplaints.co.uk. Our email for He’s about to turn 250, and his
editorial complaints covered by the Editorial Complaints Policy is height of Everest this year
edia.co.uk ideal celebration would be
H Bauer Publishing i England and Wales with company 68 Mountain skills a hillwalk up Snowdon
62
number 0117 Media House, Lynch Wood,
23 essential tips for spring
P T no 918 5617 01.
© Bauer 2020 The campfire question
70 Masterclass With wild fires becoming more
Never scrambled before? Here’s common in our uplands, how can
everything you need to know we keep our campfires safe?
4 TRAIL SPRING 2020

CONTENTS
14
Approaching Snowdon’s South Ridge,
one of many great highlights on our
brand new Peak to Pub Trail.
TOM BAILEY
MOUNTAIN ROUTES
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
95
93
95
Beinn Eunaich, West Highlands
Pillar, Lake District
97 Great Gable, Lake District
99 Clisham Horseshoe, Outer Hebrides
101 Carneddau traverse, Snowdonia
103 Black Combe, Lake District
38 New route
GEAR
up one of the
Lakes’ busiest
mountains.
99
76 FIRST LOOK
Awesome new
Cuillin Ridge guidebook
78 BIG TEST Compact stoves
83 Sleeping mats
84 3-season sleeping bags
ULTIMATE WEEKENDS
105 Arenigs, Snowdonia
109 Galloway, South-west Scotland
WALKS OF A LIFETIME
113 The Scafells, Lake District
BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES
118 Stac Pollaidh, NW Highlands
36 SUBSCRIBE
TO TRAIL
GET A FREE
PRIMUS STOVE
SPRING 2020 TRAIL 5
BA S CAMP
YOUR A D V EN T URE S TA RT S HERE
Scafell Pike (left) and Sca Fell
(right) viewed from Kirk Fell,
with the craggy lower summit
of Lingmell in the foreground
to the left.
TOM BAILEY
6 TRAIL SPRING 2020

L A K E DI S T R IC T
THE SCAFELLS
It’s easy to dismiss Scafell Pike. Sure, it’s England’s highest peak, but so
what? It’s too busy, doesn’t have one of those deliciously pointy summits, and
you won’t find any razor-edged ridges or pristine mountain lakes high on its
rubble-strewn slopes. Isn’t it all just, a bit boring? Wrong. The Scafell range is
defined by dark, almost gothic qualities, its high ramparts defended by abrupt
cliffs and mangled buttresses that create a sinister atmosphere as you tiptoe
beneath them. It would be madness to visit these peaks without tagging the
high point of the country, but combine that with an ascent along the deep gash
of Piers Gill (sneaking into the left of this picture), and the lonely neighbour of
Sca Fell (dominating the skyline to the right) for one of Britain’s top hillwalks.
n Walk Scafell Pike & Sca Fell this weekend – see page 113
No.71/72 on the
00
The UK’s ultimate
mountain bucket list
lfto.com/trail100
HILL SAFETY
MOUNTAIN RESCUE WHEN

SHOULD YOU MAKE THE CALL?
M
ountain Rescue hit the headlines in February when four
inexperienced tourists were rescued near the summit of Ben
Nevis in the middle of a brutal winter storm. The rescue created a
firestorm of controversy, with thousands of people taking to social media to
criticise the walkers, who were carrying no recognised winter kit, with three
of the group wearing trainers. The conditions were so severe that the rescue
helicopter couldn’t fly near the 1345m summit, meaning 22 members of the
Lochaber Mountain Rescue team were forced to make the journey on foot.
KENNY FERGUSON / ALAMY
The incident raised questions about how reliant hillwalkers in Britain have
become on Mountain Rescue, a completely voluntary organisation
dating back more than 50 years that relies on the fundraising efforts
of its own team members to keep it running. Should we all be
more prepared when we head to the hills? And at what
point should we consider calling out a rescue
team for assistance?
Massive huge respect to MRT, who

never get enough recognition for what
they do and without hesitation MR
103
If they are stupid enough to go up Putting your own life at risk is daft,
there in such bad weather and so putting others at risk is ignorant and
poorly equipped then they should be irresponsible. I hope they’re found safe,
left up there... it’s evolution theory. but I also hope they get an invoice.
5 22
THE VIEW FROM

NORTH WALES 1
Rob Johnson WHEN TO CALL NO JUDGEMENTS
is a member “There’s an ethos of self-reliance in the “We try to never judge the people we
of Llanberis mountains, so calling for rescue should rescue. It is often down to a lack of
Mountain Rescue, be a last resort when all other options awareness that could happen in any walk
which covers the have been explored. However, if there’s of life. Nobody ever intends to make a
Snowdon range. a threat to life you shouldn’t hesitate.” mistake or put themselves in danger.”
8 TRAIL SPRING 2020

B A S EC A M P
WIN
ROBERTHARDING / ALAMY
HILLWALKER’S KITS
“The casualties were just members of the WORTH £75
public who were unaware what they were To help you get better prepared
getting into, and they admit they made a and stay safe on your mountain
significant error of judgement. Perhaps trips, we’ve teamed up with the
more thought needs to be given to how we Ordnance Survey to give away
inform people about how dangerous our 6 hillwalking kits worth £75 each.
mountains are, how severe our weather
can get, and how it will catch out the
uninformed at any time of year.”
LOCHABER MOUNTAIN RESCUE,

FEBRUARY 2020
S TAY S A F E
MOUNTAIN SKILLS COURSES mountain-training.org

MOUNTAIN WEATHER FORECASTS
metoffice.gov.uk; mwis.org.uk; sais.gov.uk
CALL MOUNTAIN RESCUE Dial 999,
ask for police, then Mountain Rescue
DONATE OR VOLUNTEER
mountain.rescue.org.uk
T H E K I T I N C L U D E S...
■ One-year digital subscription to

OS Maps for the whole of Great Britain
3 4
■ Map Reading Made Easy guidebook
■ OS 15 Compass
■ OS Romer grid reference tool
■ Tick removal tweezers
■ 25-litre waterproof dry bag
HUNDREDS OF CALL-OUTS COMMON INCIDENTS ■ Pocket First Aid Kit
■ Thermal Emergency Blanket
“As a team we received more “The most common call-outs ■ OS Tritan Drinks Flask
than 210 call-outs last year. An are simple ‘slips and trips’, and we ■ Emergency Whistle
average job will need 12 people, get our fair share of crag-fast people ENTER ONLINE AT
but anything involving a stretcher on steep ground. Crib Goch is a mountainsforthemind.co.uk/osgiveaway
requires substantially more.” frequent hotspot for our team.” CLOSING DATE: 15 APRIL
SPRING 2020 TRAIL 9

Places we’ve been,
things we’ve seen, and
mountain-related
stuff we like
ADVENTURE WEDDINGS
Lucky enough to have found a partner who also loves hilly
places? Thinking about tying the knot? Here’s an idea for
a wedding to remember – get married in the mountains!
Combine your special day with the activities and places you
love the most and tailor your ceremony into something really
personal. Adventure wedding photographer Cat is based in
Austria but shoots weddings in high places all over Europe,
including the UK. Check out her work, get inspired and
download her free step-by-step guide to adventure
weddings at wildconnectionsphotography.com
WIN A ■ BURN CALORIES

WHILE YOU WALK
BIVVY!
Lightweight wild camping can be
WALKING
AT 4MPH
VIEW WITH A ROOM
an expensive business, so we’ve teamed
Worth = 375
£200!
up with Outdoor Research to offer
CALS/HR
one lucky winner a Helium
hooped bivvy bag, worth £200!
It’s tough, lightweight and WITH A 25%
very packable. Enter at SLOPE
livefortheoutdoors.com/ = 1266
ORbivvycomp CALS/HR
Closes 16 April.
ADD A 6KG Tucked away in the Peak District National

BACKPACK =
Park near the village of Longnor is the
1652 CALS/HR
wonderfully cosy and compact Yew Tree
SUPPORT MOUNTAINS Barn. Perfect for a short break for two,
FOR THE MIND it’s well positioned for walking some of
MOUNTAINS the best features in the Peaks, including
THE MIND
FOR
Help us spread the The Roaches, Chrome and Parkhouse Hill.

Using every single inch of space, we love
word that mountains are the quirky mezzanine bed under the rafters
and the ancient yew tree that stands guard
good for mental health at the door. oneoffplaces.co.uk
by wearing our brand

new hoodies and
neck tubes. Order
yours today – all our
profits go to charity!
mountainsforthemind.co.uk/shop
10 TRAIL SPRING 2020

N AT U R E N O T E S
Celebrating the small brown

superstars of the mountains
WORDS TOM BAILEY
T
wo birds, more than any try to lure a predator away from a nest
others, populate our by feigning injury and appearing easy to
uplands. They’re not catch. Its plumage is olive/brown, with
eagles, swans or even black streaks on the back. The belly is
corvids (crow family), lighter and speckled with black dots.
but small brown bundles of feathers. It eats small bugs, insects and spiders
Say hello to the humble meadow pipit which, should you look, are numerous in
and the slightly more glamorous skylark. the heather, bracken and bilberry-covered
But who cares? Well, I do for one. To hills. Unlike the skylark, the meadow
appreciate the more dramatic, obvious pipit’s song (and I’m talking about during
creatures that grab our attention in the the spring and early summer) is produced
mountains, you need to understand the in a descending flutter, never from a
pyramid of life of which they are all a stationary hover like the skylark. It lacks
part. Larks and pipits are low down in the range and ‘charm’ of the skylark.
that pyramid, but every block in that This is your key to differentiating
structure is important. between the two when surrounded by
Let’s start with the skylark. Bigger a hillside full of twittering. The ability
than a sparrow, it has stumpy, triangular to do this will impress all around you.
wings that are key to identification in People will buy you pints. You’ll be
flight. The back of the body is a mess carried through the streets shoulder-high
of brown, tawny and black streaks and and hailed as The Pipit Whisperer. Well,
it has white outer tail feathers. When something like that. In my 20 years of
it’s perched on a fence post, or on the highlighting the difference to friends,
ground, you may be lucky enough to see a raised eyebrow is the most dramatic
the crest, which makes the head look response I’ve had.
triangular. The phrase ‘up with the lark’
is based on fact. Many times I’ve camped
in the spring and summer, and you soon FOR THE FIRST HOUR, THE SKYLARK’S A PLEASURE TO
learn that they rise before dawn. HEAR, A DISTILLATION OF EVERY REASON YOU COME
TO THE HILLS. AFTER AN HOUR, IT’S JUST ANNOYING
Skylarks have been in decline in the
lowlands for many years now, according
to my observations over the last 20+
years, but they still have a strong These small birds live hard lives. Not
presence in our uplands. They fly up into only are the elements a constant threat,
their song flight position, hovering at the sky can bring death in the form of
60ft or so. Up there, dawn has already merlins, peregrines and sparrowhawks.
broken, but it may still be half an hour Rats, stoats, weasels, pine martens,
away for us ground-dwelling mortals. foxes, otters, adders, wildcats and
For the first hour, it’s a pleasure to hear, human boots are hazards, especially as
a distillation of every reason why you they’re ground-based during nesting.
come to the hills. After an hour it’s just The mountains are such huge, empty
annoying, so when you’re hearing it for spaces that any form of life can be
any length of time, the skylark is easy a welcome sight or sound. Learn to
to love and hate in equal measure. distinguish between these two charmers
The meadow pipit is present in the and your time in the hills will be much
mountains and moorland all year round. richer (well, most of the time). T
Skylarks tend to leave the uplands in
the winter, heading for lower farmland.
Sparrow-sized, it’s a ground-nester, as Tom Bailey is an outdoor writer, nature expert
is the skylark. A parent bird will often and long-serving Trail magazine photographer.
SPRING 2020 TRAIL 11

A DV E N T U R E PATC H E S
CELEBRATING
LAKELAND SUMMITS
We first featured The Adventure Patch Company in our
Christmas gift guide, loving the fantastic retro designs
combined with iron-on convenience. At that point there
were nine Lake District patches available: Blencathra,
Coniston, Grasmoor, Great Gable, Helvellyn, High Raise,
High Street, Scafell Pike and Skiddaw. And now six
more popular peaks have been added to the patch
portfolio: Bowfell, Catbells, Fairfield, Great End,
Haystacks and Pillar. Get these and other
mountain-inspired patches for £4.99
each at adventurepatch.co.uk
S U U N TO 7 S M A R T W ATC H £4 2 9
l 70+ sport l Chunky buttons l Powered
modes, from can be used with with Wear OS
l Free offline outdoor l The battery running and gloves and the by Google,
maps with automatic provides up cycling to skiing high-resolution allowing the
local updates allow you to 48 hours of and surfing, with touchscreen is wearer to pay,
to always find your way smartwatch use t i t t d ith h k ll
Th
lo
of
Wh
it
lW
sta
be
fib
po
ad
de
tes
to
wa
dir

B A S EC A M P
LOAD LIGHTENER
The line between trail running kit and gear for walke FLAW LESS FLASK
who move fast and light is an increasingly blurry one
Take this Inov-8 Adventure Lite 15 pack (£80), for
example. Designed primarily for runners, the no-bo
precision fit, super stable vest-like harness, conven
accessible pouches and durable construction will
no doubt also appeal to walkers carrying less kit in
the spring and summer months – as will the minimal
weight; the Adventure Lite weighs just 390g.
inov-8.com
G LOV E S T H AT S T IC K HOT DRINKS,

WARMTH, GRIP, AND NO DRIPS
A travel mug/flask doesn’t have too many
FINGERTIP CONTROL jobs to fulfil. Essentially, it just needs to

keep the contents hot and contained.
A flask full of cold tea? No good. Hot
Terra Nova Extremities’ Sticky Primaloft Glove (£30) is
coffee that’s leaked inside your rucksack?
about as well named as a glove can be. Made from 4-way
Equally useless. The new £30 Hydro
stretch Primaloft fabric for warmth without bulk, as well as
Flask 16oz has got it covered though. The
for a close fit and great dexterity, the palm features a grippy
Honeycomb Insulation works in tandem
silicone print to provide a firmer grasp on poles, rock, or
with double wall vacuum insulation to
whatever you
keep the contents hot for up to 12 hours,
need to hold
while the Wide Mouth Flex Sip Lid has an
onto. And as
all-new, leakproof lid design. Simply twist
that includes
to unlock the Smooth Flow Opening and
your phone,
enjoy a warming beverage when you
the addition of
want it, and only when you want it.
touchscreen
theepicentre.co.uk
compatibility is
an added bonus.
terra-nova.
co.uk

OU TDOOR OPINION
Following our ancestors

along ancient paths
M A RY- A N N O C H O TA
I
’ve been following the too. The official definition in England forward in the tracks of the ancestors.
green dotted footpath and Wales for an ‘Ancient Woodland’ is It’s the same story right across Britain,
line on my map to a gate that, based on historical maps, the land in lowland areas patchworked with
at the edge of a wood. has been continuously wooded since villages and fields, but also in upland
Ahead, the branches of 1600. I haven’t done the research, but and mountain landscapes. They’re
the woodland canopy curve elegantly this wood has veteran oaks, coppiced all a product of human endeavour –
towards one another, a natural roof hornbeams, thick clumps of hollies and the Lake District fells had their trees
above a hard-packed track that’s sunk earthen banks running along and across chopped by Stone Age farmers, and their
into the earth. The path isn’t surfaced in the woodland floor. They are clues that flanks grazed by generations of sheep.
any way, and although it’s clearly in use, suggest this wood was managed as a Dartmoor was once a busy landscape
I don’t think it sees footfall that would valuable resource, at a time when timber (hence the hut circles, animal pens and
create this kind of erosion. No, this is was king. Oaks were encouraged to all those strange standing stones). Just
an ancient holloway, worn down by the grow strong for use in wooden ships and 200 years ago, the Scottish Highlands
passage of feet, hooves and cartwheels house and barn beams, other trees were were home to thousands of small
over hundreds of years, perhaps started coppiced to maximise the timber they communities until the Clearances shifted
by medieval locals travelling from one could produce. These woodsmen would them off the land, creating what we
farm to another, down towards the river, have grazed pigs in the understorey, a often romantically read as a wild and
to market, to church, to friends. commoners’ right known as ‘pannage’, remote natural landscape, but really
It’s a staggering truth that some of and hunted and foraged wild ought to see (at least in part)
our deepest ancient lanes are 6m lower foods. Yes, I think to as a land of dispossession
than the surrounding land, whittled myself, these woods and cultural genocide.
down by one generation literally have seen a lot The history of our
walking in the footsteps of the last. of life in their landscape is written
The woodland around me looks ancient lifetime. I walk into our paths, and
in the rights we
have to access the
land. Those rights
are precious, and
not to be taken
for granted. So if
you have any spare
time, please consider
getting involved with
the Ramblers’ campaign
‘Don’t Lose Your Way’.
There’s a 2026 deadline to ensure
that valuable legal historic paths are
included on the ‘Definitive Map’ – the
official one councils use. If they’re not
on it, we lose those paths forever. Head
to dontloseyourway.ramblers.org.uk to
learn how to find them and save them.
Hundreds of future generations will
thank you. T
Check out the Ramblers’ Mary-Ann Ochota is the author of Hidden

campaign today, and help Histories: A Spotter’s Guide to the British
preserve the UK’s heritage Landscape and a BMC Hillwalking Ambassador.
paths and trails. When not presenting on radio and TV,
she loves a mountain adventure.

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M O U N TA I N S F O R T H E M I N D
MOUNTAINS
FOR
THE MIND
“The darker stages of life

fuelled my hunger for adventure”
J O S H UA K I A N , A D V E N T U R E B L O G G E R
M
y mental health issues
Josh and girlfriend Sarah are
sprang up out of nowhere
about to cycle all the way to India.
in my early 20s, while I Yep, you read that right...
was studying in Sheffield.
Mental health is a tricky
one, isn’t it? It doesn’t discriminate, it
can’t be predicted, it can be impossible
to find a cause and harder to ‘solve’.
“Why am I feeling this way? Where did
it come from? What can I do to stop
it?” These questions consumed
me. There seemed to be no
escaping it, and so for a
while, confused with how
to respond to my change
in mental wellbeing, I
suffered. It changed me
from a confident, cheerful
and motivated person to
what felt like a shell of my
former self.
Lifestyle changes, the catalyst for opened my eyes to a world of possibilities
meditation, new hobbies, events that would and will likely always fuel my hunger for
healthier eating – I tried many shape my life. adventure. Most importantly, it’s been
things which helped to varying I started pushing a constant reminder to just spend more
degrees but there would still be myself with bigger peaks, time outside, in beautiful natural places,
dark clouds, thoughts and feelings. longer hikes and crazier trips. This all something I think we can all benefit from.
Unless I was outside. eventually led to me and my partner in Right now, we’re embarking on our
I began finding solace in the Peak crime, Sarah, completing the UK Three biggest challenge to date: a cycling
District, spending longer and longer Peaks Challenge by bike to raise money expedition from England to India. It’s
periods of time absorbed in the outdoors. for charity. It was one of the hardest already been an unforgettable experience
When I was outside my mind was clear. things I’ve ever done, but the feeling of of a lifetime that brings me happiness
The inner happiness and confidence came testing my limits, spending 24 hours a every day. But without my mental health
back to me. Finding myself in stunning day surrounded by wild locations and issues, it might never have happened. T
remote landscapes, climbing mountain achieving something great was unbeatable.
peaks or surrounded by adventure, I felt Knowing I wanted a life immersed in Follow Josh and Sarah’s ethical adventure
invigorated and full of life. the outdoors guided me towards a career blog at veggievagabonds.com
The outdoors became my priority. in travel and adventure writing. All this
Hiking, cycling, climbing, camping, time outside brought out the staunch
exploring mountains, lakes, forests and environmentalist in me and also motivated
valleys... I felt so uplifted and inspired, Mountains for the Mind is a Trail magazine
Sarah and I to start a blog that helps others
campaign promoting the benefits of
and quickly realised, despite my mental embrace the outdoors too. spending time outdoors for better mental
health starting as something negative In a funny way, I’m grateful for health. Find out how you can support it at
that held me back, it had actually become experiencing those darker stages of life. It mountainsforthemind.co.uk
SUPPORTED BY OUR OFFICIAL PARTNERS:

Out
there
YOUR MOUNTAIN SNAPS
& TALES FROM
THIS
THE TRAILS MONTH’S
WINNER
Island Peak Nepal

“This is me standing on the summit of Nepal’s Island
Peak, looking towards Lhotse, the 4th highest peak
in the world!” Paul Bambrough, Middlesbrough

Beinn Dearg
Mount Teide Tenerife Cairngorms
“I was inspired by your article on the walk “On route to the top of Beinn
up Mount Teide in Tenerife,” explains Jennie Dearg with my hiking partner
Pearce-Roberts from Great Ayton, “which Jane Brown. We stopped
coincided with a holiday I’d booked with my beside this incredibly well-kept
girlfriend. I convinced Sophie to take on the bothy before heading to the
challenge with me, then on the return from the summit in the snow at -11°C.
summit I proposed to her. She said ‘of course’ Loved every minute of the 18
by the way!” Congratulations from Team Trail! miles.” Callum Muir, Edinburgh
Sgorr Dhonuill Highlands

“This is my friend Craig on our second Munro
of the day, Sgorr Dhonuill, looking down Loch Linnhe.
In the distance you can make out Ben More
on the Isle of Mull.” Scott Goodwin, Glasgow
Helvellyn SEND
Lake District US YOUR
“Here’s me and my fiancé, BEST PIC
Adam, seeing in the last Every month the best pic will win a Multimat
sunrise of 2019 on top of mattress worth £90! The Summit 25/38
is tough, light, durable and maximises
Helvellyn. It was a stunning comfort in the most extreme conditions.
morning – despite a little cloud
cover – and we got to meet
some lovely fellow walkers and
runners up there too! Thanks
to the lovely couple who took
this for us. One of our best
memories of 2019!”
Leah Miller, Bedford
SEND YOUR PHOTOS TO ‘OUT THERE’: trail@bauermedia.co.uk

FOLLOW TRAIL: @trailmagazine facebook.com/trailmagazine @trailmagazine

E VERE ST ANY WHERE CHALLENGE
Toubkal
t Anyw Morocco
s
Evere
“Not a bad start
he
to my first Everest
Anywhere challenge.
re
Two peaks this year
so far. Pendle Hill
in Lancashire at
557m, and Toubkal
in Morocco at 4167m,
taking my total to
MAGAZINE 4724m.”
Jonathan Carter,
ARE YOU WALKING Burnley
THE HEIGHT OF
EVEREST THIS YEAR?
With Trail’s 2020 challenge to bag 8848m
of ascent in a single year of hillwalking
well underway, here’s our selection
of this month’s star challengers from the
Trail Everest Anywhere Facebook group,
and details of where they’ve been
clocking up their ascents...
Gordale
Scar
Yorkshire
“Only a small
walk of 280m
ascent but one
of our favourites
in the Yorkshire
Dales. This time
we took Grandma
to explore with
us – Janet’s Foss,
Gordale Scar,
across the moors
to Malham Cove.”
Leanne Woodall,
Blackpool
Tegg’s Nose
Cheshire
Pistyll Rhaeadr “Had an ‘all-weather’
The Berwyns walk, doing 15 miles of

the Cheshire 3 Peaks in
“Just a valley walk today, rain, hail, snow, wind,
including a wander around and to finish off a little
the quietest (out of season) bit of sunshine. If I said
and prettiest waterfall in it was enjoyable, would
Wales. 503m added.” that make me slightly
Alun Moran, Chester mad?” Nina Robinson,
Stoke-on-Trent

The Roaches Peak District
“Bagged 620m on a hike through sodden
ground and up onto the gritstone Roaches
in the Peak District. Baxter doesn’t look
that impressed!”
Craig Bailey-Rigby,
Newcastle-under-Lyme
Skiddaw Little
Man Lake District
Congratulations to our first
completer! Evonne says, “First
Everest completed and patch
ordered! I’ll be doing a few
more as I have a number of
National Trails lined up this
year, which should give me
some decent elevation.”
Evonne Zingraf, Lincolnshire
Glen Coe Highlands

“Nearly 6000m ascent to date
– about 4000m higher than this
time last year – thanks to this
3-day winter skills course and
early retirement.”
Julia Miflin, Edinburgh
Sign up online to climb the height of Everest (8848m) this year and
download your FREE Everest Anywhere ‘Progress Tracker’
EVERESTANYWHERE.COM
Then join the community facebook.com/groups/everestanywhere

PEAK TO PUB
NEW
TRAIL
PEAK
Cramming the bits of Snowdonia we love most into four incredible mountain days,
this, ladies and gentlemen, is the grand unveiling of our 2020 Peak to Pub trail!
WORDS JENNA MARYNIAK PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY
22
TO
“
H
ow do you fancy walking 35 miles, over 10 Snowdonian mountains,
on a 4-day peak bagging trip, finishing each night in a warm pub?”
It didn’t take much more than that to convince me that I should
be the one to test-walk the brand new Trail Peak to Pub route. In
fact, it was impossible to resist the concept of stuffing the very best
Day 3 of Trail’s 2020
Peak to Pub trail, high
up on the Snowdon
massif and heading
for yet another great
North Wales ridge.
of Snowdonia’s rocky landscape into a multi-day journey of jagged
peaks, forest, llyns, slate mines and waterfalls, then linking them up
with fireside pub evenings, a hot bath and a comfy bed for the night. 

Looking towards Moel Eilio,
the first of 10 peaks on this
4-day trail, from the South
Ridge of Snowdon.
“IT’S A SHORT DAY TO START

THE TRAIL, UP ON TO THE
WILD RIDGE OF MOEL EILIO”
DAY 1 The Big Dipper

Following the popularity of our Lake
District Peak to Pub trail, launched this time
last year, the 2020 route was devised over
months of careful planning. It needed to be
exciting and challenging, but enjoyable and
A high-level walk starting in the town of Llanberis,
accessible. Maps were studied, pubs selected, taking in three great mountains, a rolling ridge
accommodation sorted, and the whole thing
needed testing. I couldn’t wait to get going.
known as ‘The Big Dipper’, shimmering llyns
The route would take me from the beating and spooky abandoned slate mines.
heart of Llanberis up onto the wild ridge
I
of Moel Eilio, before descending via an t’s a short day to start, allowing Following the ‘Big Dipper’ ridge
old slate mine to the Cwellyn Arms. Day 2 time to travel and get parked up. over Foel Gron and continuing until
would offer a choice, starting with the best Wiggling through the back streets you reach the top of Foel Goch in an
part of the Nantlle Ridge or bypassing it of Llanberis you’ll find a street named enjoyable undulating and increasingly
before beginning the roller coaster ride to Fron Goch, turn right at a crossroads, ragged ridgeline, the path then
Moel Hebog, finishing with a steep swoop then left, passing the Plas Garnedd drops southwards down to a wide
into Beddgelert and the Tanronnen Inn. Care Centre. The road gently climbs, bridleway. After 100m or so, branch
Day 3 was to be on Snowdon, via its stunning turning into a track taking you high off left onto a footpath, which shortly
South Ridge, then down over Y Lliwedd and above Llanberis. The shoulder of Moel bisects the Snowdon Ranger Path.
ending at the legendary Pen Y Gwryd Hotel. Eilio comes into a view and a path You’ll continue over a stile to pick
Finally, Day 4 would deliver the shattered left swoops you up onto Bryn Mawr, up a waymarked path to Rhyd Ddu
rock of The Glyders, with just enough time which forms the rounded grassy ridge over small streams, footbridges and
for a visit to the Cantilever Stone and Castell y up to Moel Ellio’s summit. It’s an easy through boggy ground to a disused
Gwynt, before a choice of bagging Y Garn, or climb to the top, where you’ll cross a quarry. It’s worth taking a moment
heading down a rough and rocky stream-side couple of stiles and follow a fence line here to appreciate the apocalyptic
descent into Llanberis valley, and a pub – roughly south, to reveal cliffs dropping beauty of the heaps of slate spoil and
The Heights. Here’s how you can do it... dramatically down to Llyn Dwythwch. ghost-town feel of the abandoned

PEAK TO PUB
START Llanberis
The
Cwellyn
Arms
■ Log fires
■ Cosy
■ Superb food
■ 9 real ales
■ Dogs allowed
■ Packed lunches
available
■ Range of
accommodation,
including B&B,
self-catering
farmhouse,
bunkhouse,
camping and
glamping. Check
for seasonal
minimum stays
OTHER OPTIONS
■ Ty Mawr Tea
Rooms in Rhyd
Ddu offer B&B
DISTANCE
12km
ASCENT 810m
TECHNICALITY Easy
high-level walking
TERRAIN Mostly
mine passages, before the final romp down grassy slopes and
to the Cwellyn Arms in Rhyd Ddu. paths, some boggy
The Cwellyn Arms has a perfect walkers’ ground, crosses
bar complete with log fires and a cosy disused slate quarry
atmosphere. The food is truly excellent, NAVIGATION
FINISH Rhyd Ddu
with a good choice of ale and other beverages. Usual mountain
We can highly recommend the puddings – navigational skills
required, follows
pricey, but you’re going to need those extra
paths on the ground
calories, after all!
SNOWDONIA SLATE a shift in consciousness is also the landscape but the culture of distance walk was launched in
The remains of a once thriving happening. Instead of viewing this part of Wales. Slate caverns 2018, called ‘The Snowdonia
slate mining industry is visible disused quarries as ugly blots have become tourist attractions, Slate Trail’, which takes a walk
almost wherever you go in on the landscape, there is a ‘River of Slate’ sculpture through the industrial history
Snowdonia. But as nature a movement of celebrating naming all 350 slate mines has and geology of this material that
gradually starts to embrace and an industry that has been so been constructed in Blaenau was formed 450-600 million
heal these man-made scars, important in not only shaping Ffestiniog, and a new long- years ago.


On the quiet flanks of Moel Lefn,
looking over Beddgelert Forest to
the Snowdon massif in the distance.
DAY 2 T
he village of Rhyd Ddu sits between Snowdon and the Nantlle
Ridge. Snowdon is yet to come, but for those looking for an
extra challenge and with fit mountain legs, it would be rude
Ridges and not to bag the most cracking section of the Nantlle Ridge first – which
is a 5km detour, with an added 746m of ascent. If 12km and nearly
volcanoes
1000m of ascent is enough for one day though, a pleasant and much
easier start to the day can be taken through Beddgelert Forest from
Rhyd Ddu. Forestry tracks can be a bit confusing and arrow markers
It’s a dramatic mountain day, filled don’t necessarily mark the right way, so keep a close eye on the map.
The Nantlle and forest route options converge at the edge of the
with iconic peaks, far-reaching views Beddgelert Forest at Bwlch-y-Ddwy-elor on a bridleway, which then
over land and sea – and no people! meanders through a disused quarry that has been taken back
by nature and taken on a rather magical feel in a picturesque
col. Our route turns west (left) off the bridleway on a
footpath into Bwlch Cwm-trwsgl. Following the public
Moel Hebog’s summit, footpath you’ll meet a wall. From here there is no
high above the village
of Beddgelert. obvious route up through the crags to climb Moel
Lefn and no path is marked on the OS map
either, but there is a path on the ground all
the way. At a slight rise, cross a gap in
VILLAGE OF LEGEND the wall still following a path on
Beddgelert means ‘grave the ground with the wall to your
of Gelert’, and has long
left. When you reach the edge of
been associated with the
tragic legend of a faithful the plantation (recently felled) at
hound that was killed grid reference SH553496, instead
in error by his master of following the public footpath
Welsh Prince Llewelyn
the Great. A tombstone
through the plantation, turn right
was erected by the river (southwards) keeping the wall on 
Glaslyn just south of the
village, telling the tale.
However, other sources
suggest that the real
namesake of the village
was a 6th century saint
who is said to have been
buried nearby.

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“IT WOULD BE RUDE
The exposed edge of
Mynydd Drws-y-coed
provides a thrilling start
NOT TO BAG THE to the Nantlle Ridge, with

some fun but fairly simple
MOST CRACKING
scrambling terrain.
SECTION OF THE
NANTLLE RIDGE”
Tanronnen Inn
■ Good pub food
■ Great location
■ Packed lunches available
■ Open year-round (be aware that
some businesses in Beddgelert are
shut during the winter months)
■ Dogs not allowed
■ Comfortable rooms with a
hearty breakfast, including single
night stays
OTHER OPTIONS
■ Beddgelert has a choice of other
accommodation. Our favourite of the
B&Bs is the smart and super friendly
Plas Tan y Graig, with views over the
river and to Moel Hebog
■ There’s a great village shop in
Beddgelert too

PEAK TO PUB
your left up a defined path that climbs steeply.

Stay on the path when the wall veers off to
the left and this path will eventually wind you
up to the rocky top of Moel Lefn. The trio of
hills that form the next part of the route cut a
line between the sea and the Snowdon range,
offering amazing views on a fine day.
Various faint paths find their way down and
up to the next summit of Moel yr Ogof. From
there, skirt left to avoid steep rock, and then
find a path that drops you down left through
the craggy sides of Ogof. Curving back right
to a fence line, you’ll join a clear path, taking
you through a dramatic cleft in the rock
before dipping down into the col to a stone
wall. From the col, a slow trudge up a thigh-
busting slope by a wall leads to the grassy top
of Moel Hebog, where there’s a large cairn.
Avoiding the bog on
A path from the summit takes you north- DISTANCE 12km
Moel yr Ogof.
west, negotiating the line of least resistance, (17km with optional
and avoiding steep cliffs. The terrain is START Rhyd Ddu extra on Nantlle Ridge)
surprisingly mountainous on this side of Moel ASCENT 937m (1683m
OPTIONAL
Hebog, steep and rocky at times, requiring Nantlle Ridge with optional extra)
care and a few hands-on moves. The exposed TECHNICALITY A
rock band is a popular place for geologists, good workout, but all
straightforward, bar a
with plenty of evidence of volcanic activity.
couple of rocky sections
Particularly impressive are cannon-ball shaped
off the top of Moel yr
rocks, called ‘siliceous nodules’, which were Ogof, and the steep, rocky
created by the hottest and most violent Moel Hebog descent
type of eruption. Soon, the going OPTIONAL EXTRA The
returns to grass and it’s an easy rocky crest on Nantlle
yomp down into Beddgelert Ridge requires some
and the Tanronnen Inn. easy scrambling moves
Located on the banks of the river, TERRAIN Forest path,
with Hebog towering above, the grassy ridges, rocky
Tanronnen Inn is a great looking sections, may be boggy
in the col between Moel
inn, providing classic pub food
yr Ogof and Hebog
and a friendly welcome. 
NAVIGATION Care
required finding the path
(not on map) up Moel
Lefn, faint paths across
the ridge of Moel Lefn
and Moel yr Ogof (not on
the map) – care required
to avoid cliffs in poor vis
FINISH Beddgelert
An abandoned quarry at Bwlch-y-Ddwy-elor.

DAY 3
Exploring the
roof of Wales
Exposure on Snowdon’s south ridge
+ thrilling scrambles + fairy pools in
the forest + one of the most iconic
mountaineering pubs in the world
= one epic North Wales day.

PEAK TO PUB
Approaching the scrambly

section on Y Lliwedd, with
Snowdon’s pointed summit
behind, and the ragged profile
of the Crib Goch ridge on
the skyline to the right.
“THE VERY BEST OF

SNOWDONIA’S ROCKY
LANDSCAPE IN ONE
MULTI-DAY JOURNEY”

F
rom Beddgelert, start with a brisk road walk
north-west to the National Trust’s Craflwyn
Hall. At the back of the car park a range of
permissive footpaths lead into the woods. Take the
higher path past waterfalls, following black arrow
markers for about 2km until you reach a bridge
over a stream with a gate and stile to the left.
Leave the circular route, go over the stile heading
north-west on a well-trodden permissive path. This
crosses lovely hillside and joins with the Watkin
Path. You could ascend Snowdon via the Watkin,
but instead our route forks left off the Watkin to
Bwlch Cwm Llan and the start of Snowdon’s South
Ridge. It’s a beautiful airy ascent, with no real
technical difficulty, but spades of atmosphere and
rocky drama all the way to Snowdon. Magical waterfalls in Coed Craflwyn.
Stand on the highest point of England and FINISH Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel
Wales, then backtrack to the final stages of the
Watkin Path, which you will use to descend
Snowdon’s flanks and reascend Y Lliwedd.
Y Lliwedd is easy, fun scrambling with a variety
of ways up, depending on how close you want
to stick to the fantastically steep cliffs
that dive down to Llyn Llydaw far
below. To avoid scrambling, you
could descend Snowdon via the
Pyg or Miners’ Track, but we
recommend Y Lliwedd if you
have the energy!
Having topped out on both
the West and East Peak, the path
drops steeply down to the far DISTANCE 20km
end of the Llyn. It’s steep, rocky
ASCENT 1749m
and energy sapping, but fine if
TECHNICALITY South
taken carefully. From there, the
Ridge is rough walking
path is easy joining the Miners’ at most, Y Lliwedd offers
Track back to Pen-y-Pass. Look easy scrambling, which
for a gate to your right from the is never really exposed
car park, which joins a signposted TERRAIN Forest paths,
permissive path that keeps you off grassy hillside, easy
the road to the Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel. narrow ridge and rocky
The Pen-y-Gwryd is steeped in scrambling (avoid by
mountaineering history. The main Pyg Track descent)
bar mimics an Alpine log cabin, NAVIGATION All well
and the residents’ bar is intimate walked paths, usual
mountain navigation
and adorned with climbing
required
memorabilia – in particular
Hillary and Tenzing’s training
for Everest, which was Taking it all in for a moment
based at this very hotel. on the traverse to Snowdon
A gong announces the across Coed Craflwyn.
3-course dinner. It’s

an unmissable part
of the Snowdonia
Peak to Pub
experience! 
START Beddgelert

PEAK TO PUB
The Pen-y-Gwryd Hotel

■ Steeped in mountaineering history
PANORAMIC VIEWPOINT RAILWAYS OF SNOWDONIA ■ Alpine-style bar
If it’s a clear day the 360° views from Often visible on the first three days of the ■ Quirky as hell!
Snowdon’s summit are some of the best Peak to Pub are the railways of Snowdonia. ■ 3- or 5-course dinner announced with a gong
anywhere. Not only will you be able to The Welsh Highland Railway, originally built ■ Dog friendly
trace the roller coaster ride of your by the slate companies, now chugs tourists ■ Packed lunches available
entire four-day route from a bird’s-eye from Caernarfon through Rhyd Ddu and ■ Sauna
perspective, look to the east and a tangle Beddgelert, before joining with the Ffestiniog ■ B&B or dinner B&B
of rocky ridges and deep blue llyns have a Railway at Porthmadog. While the Snowdon ■ Single night stays allowed
habit of immobilising you in that one spot Mountain Railway uses a rack and pinion
for much longer than you intended. Look system, which uses toothed racks to mesh OTHER OPTIONS
west and north, and it’s possible to see the train with track for 4 miles from Llanberis to ■ YHA Pen-y-Pass has private rooms
Isle of Man, the peaks of the Irish Wicklow the summit, up a gradient that is 1:5½ at its and dorms, with a bar and restaurant
Mountains and the Lake District. steepest (1m rise for every 5.5m travelled).
Follow the path or stick to

the crest on Snowdon’s South
Ridge... but don’t forget to take
in the views that include most of
the four-day Peak to Pub route.

DAY 4
Shattered summits
Like nowhere else on Earth, the Glyders
complete the 4-day circuit on a high, with
rocky formations, unstable scree slopes
and a quiet llyn-side lunch.
Y
ou’ll need a good breakfast to get you up and going
again after a big day yesterday. Turning left out of the
FINISH Llanberis (or Nant Peris)
Pen-y-Gwyrd it’s just 100m down the road until you see
a footpath heading across a stream and north up the Miner’s
Track. Get a rhythm going to the grassy ridge top up some boggy
ground. Stop to admire views of Tryfan looking outstanding,
before taking the path left in a westerly direction towards Glyder
Fach. The ground soon becomes covered in shattered rock. Stick
to the worn paths for easier going. Just before Fach’s summit,
you’ll see the pinnacles at the top of the aptly-named Bristly
Ridge, and shortly after, the Cantilever Stone.
Glyder Fach’s true summit is an awkward (and totally
optional) scramble over a heap of giant slabs of rock. If visibility DISTANCE 14km (20km with
is poor take extra care from here, as the rocky terrain can be optional extra up Y Garn)
confusing, and the path can be easily lost. Take a bearing if ASCENT 926m (1174m
required to avoid descending too soon. Clamber over or skirt with optional extra)
the impressive rocky shards of Castell y Gwynt, then dip down TECHNICALITY Rough mountain
and up again to Glyder Fawr, where the going becomes easier walking, nothing technical
and cairns mark the way. The hard work isn’t over yet though, TERRAIN Rough and rocky
because the descent to Llyn y Cwn is a serpentine of loose, steep mountain terrain, slidey descent
scree. It’s hard work and requires concentration, but you’ll be in steep scree off Gylder Fawr
glad you’re going up it, not down! NAVIGATION Paths indistinct at
Llyn y Cwn is a lovely place for a break, before choosing top of Miner’s Track and around
whether to add on the extra peak of Y Garn, or instead to head Glyder Fach, map and compass
down along side Afon Las – a lovely path, which also requires essential in poor visibility
some effort! Finally, the path spits you back out into the depths
of the Llanberis valley where, if you parked at Llanberis,
WILDLIFE WATCH Welsh mountain goat came from,
there is a rather punishing 4.5km road walk (mostly on a flat, Populations of red squirrels but they can be seen anywhere on
off-road path) back to the town. To save your legs, there’s a have been introduced below the the route if you’re lucky, with their
S2 Sherpa Bus service from Nant Peris to Llanberis. Check Glyderau in the Ogwen Valley, large horns and shaggy black and
and pine marten are present in white coats. Ravens are seen (and
the timetable before you travel as this changes seasonally. the wooded slopes of Snowdon. heard) in high mountain areas
If you parked in Nant Peris village, you’ll have already No one really knows where the – studies have shown that these
done this bit on Day 1. Happy days! T

PEAK TO PUB
Explore the crazy rock structures

on the summit of Glyder Fach. PLAN YOUR OWN TRAIL
START & FINISH
Llanberis or Nant Peris
TOTAL DISTANCE 57km
ASCENT 4445m
PEAKS 10
TIME 4 days
(allowing time for travel)
MAP OS Explorer OL17 (1:25k)
PARKING
Llanberis and Nant Peris have
controlled parking, so street
parking isn’t advised. 4-day parking
is possible at the following places,
but you must pre-arrange:
■ The Heights, Llanberis
Available by arrangement for
patrons. theheightsllanberis.co.uk
The Heights ■ Vaynol Arms, Nant Peris

Available by arrangement.
robinsonsbrewery.com/
■ Serves real ales
■ Good pub food served vaynolarmsnantperis
12-9pm, 6 days a week ■ Ty Isaf Campsite and
■ Dog friendly Bunkhouse provides parking by
■ Large car park for arrangement – £6 per 24 hours.
‘Peak to Pubbers’ by ceunant-isaf.com
arrangement (for more
parking options see right) PUBLIC TRANSPORT
■ Bunkhouse with ■ To Llanberis will take a little
dorm rooms arranging, depending on where you
are travelling from. Bangor is likely
OTHER OPTIONS
to be the best hub to head for. Then
■ Llanberis has plenty of
accommodation, including it’s a 1–hour bus ride to Llanberis.
great value guest house ■ To avoid the road walk between
Dol Peris, or the Budget Nant Peris and Llanberis the
Ty Isaf Camping and S2 Sherpa Bus service runs a
Bunkhouse, which also variable service.
provides 4-day parking ■ For travel timetables and
by arrangement. planning see traveline.cymru
ACCOMMODATION
NIGHT 1 – RHYD DDU
■ Cwellyn Arms snowdoninn.co.uk
■ Ty Mawr B&B
OPTIONAL Y Garn
snowdonaccommodation.co.uk
NIGHT 2 – BEDDGELERT
■ Tanronnen Inn tanronnen.co.uk
■ Plas Tan y Graig B&B
plastanygraig.co.uk
NIGHT 3 – PEN-Y-GWYRD
■ Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel
pyg.co.uk / 01286 870211
(bookings by phone only)
■ YHA Pen-y-Pass yha.org.uk
NIGHT 4 – LLANBERIS
■ The Heights bunkhouse
theheightsllanberis.co.uk
■ Dol Peris guest house
dolperis.co.uk
■ Ty Isaf budget camping and
bunkhouse
birds are highly intelligent
with problem solving
capabilities akin to humans ■ Thanks to Snowdonia expert Tom Hutton
and apes. The Snowdon for his local knowledge and advice in
lily is Britain’s rarest plant – creating this route.
found in only five locations, all START Pen-y-Gwyrd ■ For this, and the Lake District Peak
in the mountains of Snowdonia. to Pub routes, head online at:
livefortheoutdoors.com/peaktopub

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LAKE DISTRICT
INTO ID
SHOULTS / ALAMY
How do you keep a mountain you’ve climbed countless times interesting? Trail heads
back to Lakes icon Blencathra, but this time takes the path-less-trodden to its summit.
WORDS BEN WEEKS
KNOWE CRAGS
GATEGILL FELL
BLEA CRAGS

B
“ oys, keep off the moors. Stick to the roads, and the best
of luck.” That’s the advice proffered to Jack and David
in the film American Werewolf in London. They don’t
take it and – spoiler alert – it does not end well. Tourist
mauling werewolves aside, why is it that we’re often so
reluctant to head off the well-trodden path? Thanks to
open access land in England and Wales, and Scotland’s
superbly progressive approach to accessibility, in the
British mountains there are very few places that we can’t
go, so why limit ourselves to these thin ribbons? Maybe
it’s security, paths forming a psychological tether to more 
HALLSFELL TOP ATKINSON PIKE
HALL’S FELL RIDGE

MIDDLE TONGUE
LL
GI
E
T
A
G

PLAN YOUR OWN
OFF-PATH ADVENTURE
It’s good to wonder, but up in the mountains
you have to be sensible as to where you
wander. It’s always worth studying a map
first to check the route ahead, and not a
bad idea to give someone at least a rough
idea of where you’re going. When you’re
exploring be careful not to take yourself
somewhere you can’t easily escape from if
you find the going tougher than expected.
And finally, if in any doubt at all,
it’s best not enter old mines.
LAKE DISTRICT
familiar ground. Maybe it’s habit; following paths is just lot of chipping. A short way ahead, curiosity gave way
what we do. Or maybe it’s laziness, the choices of where to common sense and we about-turned and retreated,
to walk and how to get there decided for us. But haven’t collecting our packs and continuing up into the valley to
you ever wondered what you might be missing? see what else awaited.
Take Blencathra, that most fondly held and easily Shortly, the sides began to steepen. The slopes became
accessed of Lake District fells. Specifically, take Hall’s rockier, and the width of the banks between these walls
Fell Ridge. I’ve scrambled up that superb route on and the gill began to narrow. Soon, the valley was more
numerous occasions. Trail’s long-suffering photographer like a gorge, and we were forced to cling to the rock and
Tom Bailey even more than that. We were potentially sideways-scramble above the water. Any semblance of a
about to embark upon it for an umpteenth time when, at path had disappeared and we were on our own. It was
the point of crossing Gate Gill above the small waterfall equally disconcerting and exhilarating. With no route
to reach the foot of the ridge, I looked over to my left to follow, no obvious proof that people had successfully
and eyed the track petering out towards the remains of passed this way before, each step, each move, each
an old mine building. “I’ve often wondered where that choice had to be made based on our own ability to
goes?” I asked, pretty much assuming Tom would have assess the circumstances, the environment, and the likely
the answer, but “I don’t know” was his reply, followed outcome. In truth, it was a refreshing exercise and one
by “Shall we find out?” that, dare I suggest, is worth seeking out in a world
We wandered over the loose rocks towards the building. increasingly safe and sanitised for us.
It had four walls, no roof, and smelt strongly of wee. Eventually we had no choice but to cross the gill at a
But beyond it, a faint track skirted the hillside before narrowing of the gorge and clamber up the opposite bank,
disappearing into the steep-sided re-entrant through using the roots of a birch, more robust-looking clumps of
which Gate Gill flows from Blencathra. Curiouser and heather, and even the sodden earth itself – fists plunged
curiouser. We followed it, and soon found the path and wrist-deep into the saturated ground – as hand holds. Up
the gill running side by side as we passed around a grass- above the stream we followed it towards the tip of Middle
green spur and into Blencathra’s hidden chamber. The Tongue, a lolling spur that rolls from the main Blencathra
effect was immediate. Gone was the sprawling mountain. summit ridge to a fork in Gate Gill’s tributaries. Crossing
Instead, a confined, narrow valley led intriguingly ahead. the eastern stream, we began the ascent of the Tongue.
The wind hushed, the only sound the gurgling beck and We were now on more familiar ground. Not that we’d
the occasional scuttle of a stone under a boot. There was been here before – there was nothing to suggest anyone
still the faint path to follow, but it was clear that it had had – but the open heather and rock-covered hillside
seen little traffic of late. Grey spoil heaps fanned out on felt like more typical mountain terrain, albeit the kind
the valley slopes either side of the river, a reminder that you’d more likely expect in the wild, rugged corners of
this wasn’t always such a haven of tranquillity. north Wales or even the Highlands. The end, or rather
Gate Gill was once the site of major mining operations, the top, was in sight now, but still some way off. The
lead and zinc being the main prizes of subterranean wide ramp of Middle Tongue led up and up, part rough
excavation. Aside from the obvious constructions at the lace-snagging heather, part soft ankle-swallowing moss,
entrance to the valley (the ammonia-odoured powder- and part lichen-covered rock of unpredictable friction.
house and the small waterfall which flows over a man- Eventually we swung around to the right above the
made dam), the scree-like spoil heaps are the only real eastern branch of Gate Gill’s headwaters and began the
evidence, nature having reclaimed and obscured most of slow, steep plod to Blencathra’s summit.
the scarring. But there are a few more clear indications. A little way short of the top, while we still had
On the opposite side of the clear tumbling water, a black the advantage of being shaded from the wind, we
oval shape caught our eye. “It’s an adit,” Tom observed, stopped and slumped onto the hillside. I looked back
“A mine tunnel”. I eyed it inquisitively “Should we…” down into the bowl below and the shaded valley that
“It could be dangerous. We don’t know how stable it is. wriggled away from it. Right there and then I decided
And it looks fairly wet.” I nodded. “I suppose you’re...” it was something I’d do more often; be guided by my
“But we could have a quick look,” Tom cut me off. curiosity, embrace wandering based on wondering, and
“We don’t have to go all the way in. And if we leave head away from the beaten track. We packed up and
our packs outside, at least if the roof comes in made for the top. As we crested, a man standing near
people will know where to find our bodies.” Blencathra’s distinctive summit marker saw us appear
Headtorches on, we carefully tiptoed in. Some of and approached. “Where have you guys come up from?”
the mining at Gate Gill occurred before the use of he asked curiously. I pointed back down the featureless
gunpowder aided the removal of rock. This particular hillside towards the secret sliver of Blencathra that I’d
adit was hand chipped. It was cold, dark, and seemed to never even known existed. Summit man look confused.
disappear into the very bowels of Blencathra. That’s a “I didn’t know there was a path up there…” T
Blencathra is a star name on the BROUGHT TO YOU BY

Trail 100 – a hand-picked bucket list
of the 100 UK peaks all hillwalkers
should climb in their lifetime.
Join the challenge at lfto.com/trail100

PEAK DISTRICT
24-HOUR
ADVENTURE
Smack-bang in the middle of England, the Peak District is the perfect destination
for a microadventure and – with a little persuasion – Jenna’s first bivvy.
WORDS JENNA MARYNIAK PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY
W
e’d made a dash for it. Leaving the office lashed down all the way to The Peaks.
behind, we had just 24 hours to pack in The dramatic grey gritstone edge of The
as many new experiences as possible. The Roaches, battered by a westerly wind,
plan was a clamber over the Peak District’s looked far from appealing as a location
Ramshaw Rocks to the otherworldly for our microadventure. As hard as it is
chasm of Lud’s Church, followed by an getting out of the car in rain, you wouldn’t
exploration of the rocky Roaches ridge to get very far in your love of mountainous
find an idyllic spot to watch the sun set and places if you weren’t prepared to get wet
bivvy for the night. The next morning we’d quite often. So fully Gore-Texed up, day-
rise early for a sunrise hike up Hen Cloud, glow raincovers sheltering our humpbacks
eat a big fat breakfast at the Cobbles Café stuffed with sleeping accessories, we set off
in Longnor, then drive home in time for hoping for the best.
lunch. The plan was perfect. The weather, I’d never bivvied before. I’d seen those
however, was not... Instagram pictures and dreamt of doing it.
Despite being mid-summer, rain had But every time I’d had the opportunity on 

Steeped in myth and
legend, Lud’s Church is
a magical place to walk.
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to stop MS in 2020 accessible walks, choose from
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Registered charity nos 1139257/SC041990. mssociety.org.uk/ms-walk
LEAVE PEAK DISTRICT
NO TRACE
Wild camping isn’t technically
legal in England and Wales, but is LIGHTWEIGHT BIVVY KIT LIST
generally tolerated in wild places
away from main tracks, houses Building up kit for lightweight
and farms. Always follow the wild wild camping isn’t cheap, but
camping rule to leave no trace,
and for more information go to
compare this to how many
lfto.com/advice-stories/ camping adventures you could
wild-camping-and have, compared to the price
-the-law of a B&B or hotel. Looking for
secondhand bargains or sale
prices can help cut costs.
Here’s what we took with us...
■ Outdoor Research Interstellar

bivvy Light and hooped so you
don’t get material in your face.
Has some great features, like a
mozzie net and zips that allow
you to poke your arms out.
■ Alpkit Pipedream sleeping
bag Comfy down to -6°C. Packs
up tiny and light.
■ Exped Synmat UL inflatable
roll mat Tiny, light and durable.
■ Osprey Lumina 45 pack
The lights of Leek.
Lightweight, comfy pack that’s
great at distributing heavy loads.
a wild camp, visions of savage animals, murderous lunatics and exposure to the black ■ Rab Electron down jacket
emptiness of the night had left me opting for the protection of my tent, quite aware of Excellent warmth-to-packed
size ratio.
the ridiculousness of the notion that a thin layer of waterproof nylon would save me
from anything but the rain. Having worked on this magazine for 3 years now though, ■ Jetboil Flash Fast boil,
compact and all-in-one for
this simply wasn’t very ‘Trail’. I needed to ‘woman-up’!
ready meals and hot drinks.
The bivvy-gods must have been smiling on us, as no sooner had we set off, than the
rain stopped. But I still couldn’t quite shake a feeling of reluctance. My bivvy is called
Plus
Interstellar, due to it being designed for night-time star-gazing, which was an exciting
■ Extra water, tea bags and food
prospect. But although it was dry, the chances of a clear sky, or a sunset were minimal.
I really wasn’t sure I grasped the benefits of sleeping (or, more likely, laying awake all ■ Small ziplock toiletries bag
night) with my head exposed to the wind, dew and night fiends. ■ Midge head net
The walking though, was excellent. So instead I focused on the enjoyment of ■ Poles – handy when
scrambling over the grippy boulders of Ramshaw Rocks, before we entered the native carrying extra weight
woodland that hides Lud’s Church. What the Peak District lacks in high mountain ■ Usual walking kit
terrain, it makes up for with more bite-sized, but no less dramatic, spectacles. Lud’s
Church is one of these. We arrived early evening, with not another soul in sight. Entering
via a narrow chasm in the forest floor, we stepped into another world. Dripping with WIN AN
wet moss and ferns, the walls of this 18m deep chasm in the earth are vibrantly green
in colour; a whole new ecosystem thriving in the protection of the fissure. With several
OUTDOOR
different entrances, we took our time exploring the 100m ravine and taking in the RESEARCH
strange atmosphere. It wasn’t hard to believe the tales of secret worship here in the 15th BIVVY
century by ‘heretics’ who would have been prosecuted if caught. Legend has it that Robin P10
Hood and Friar Tuck hid here to evade the authorities too!
Leaving the protection of Lud’s Church, we headed out onto the north-westerly
end of The Roaches ridge. Its grassy nose increased in rockiness and airiness the
further south we went. The evening was turning cool, the sky was leaden, the wind
was hitting the ridge at 90° and we were hungry. Our focus turned to finding a bivvy
spot out of the wind ASAP. My lack of enthusiasm for wild sleeping seemed to have
spread to the others. But it wasn’t raining. There was no excuse. We were doing this!
After what seemed like a very long time, a suitable spot was identified. Away from
the path and tucked behind some of The Roaches’ characteristic giant boulders, it
was out of the wind. The evening passed with the usual stuff: food, tea, bed prep…
But it was only when the sun set that the magic started to happen. Usually I’d be
back inside by now, but instead I found myself standing on the gritstone cliffs
looking out over the twinkling streetlight stars of Leek and Stoke-on-Trent far in the
distance. The last remnants of sunlight had turned the horizon pink, while we stood
in the inky darkness of solitude on The Roaches. 

On the Roaches,
Hen Cloud at
the far end and
Tittesworth
Reservoir beyond.
“THERE WAS A FREEDOM IN BREAKING OUT OF DAILY

LIFE, DROPPING OUR KIT WHEREVER WE FANCIED”
Morning! Fun and easy
scrambling.
Built into the rock, Unusual rock

Don Whillans formations.
Memorial Hut.

PEAK DISTRICT
Overnight a thick mist added to the a while, trying to capture the weird A628
cloud, making it a warm night. Tucked sensation of waking up outside. It

up in my Interstallar bivvy there was no was a totally different experience to
stargazing to be had, but I felt a strange, being inside a tent where you shut out
GLOSSOP
childlike excitement. Whether it was the
experience of doing something entirely
everything else. In a bivvy, you’re in the
landscape. You’re more connected to it.
Yo r k s h i
new that felt completely strange, or the And it wasn’t scary at all. High Peak
luxurious coziness that I felt in the most By the time we’d finished our first NEW MILLS
unlikeliest of places tucked up in my breakfast, the sun was out.
‘den’, I don’t know. There was a kind Suddenly the grey landscape HATHERSAGE
of freedom in breaking out of daily life. from the previous day was alive
Carrying just the bare minimum of kit with the pinks and browns of the A623
T
for a comfy night, and just dropping heather, the blue sky
RIC
wherever we fancied. It seemed a bit mad, was decorated with MACCLESFIELD
SHINING TOR
just lying down in the open and going to brushstrokes of cloud
A537 ▲ BUXTON
sleep in such a random place. In reality and below the ruggedness
ST
we were no more than a few kilometres of the ridgeline, green fields ▲ A6
from the nearest village, and only a spread out far into the distance.
WILDBOARCLOUGH I
D
couple of hours away from our normal It was still early and the landscape A53 K
The
BAKEWELL
lives back home, but it felt wild and was all ours. By sleeping out we
PE
Ro
a ch
adventurous. had captured the very best time Derbys i
es
The next morning, I woke to mist to be outside. And as we threw A515
swirling atmospherically around the rock our rucksacks into the boot and MATLOCK
LEEK
formations. To my surprise it felt like I’d clambered into the car, it was with
actually slept too. Looking up through a sense of renewal. Work would
the midge net of my bivvy I could see a be easier the next day. Problems
hint of blue in the sky indicating that the would seem less important. And
Staffordshire
mist would soon evaporate. I lay there for I’d no longer be a bivvy virgin. T
Tereno Mid GTX

Bhutan MFS Ontario GTX
Where will your boots take you?

Find your nearest stockist www.meindl.co.uk
SOUTHERN UPLANDS
SCOTLAND’S
SECRET SUMMITS
There’s a vast expanse of Scotland – a long way south of the main Highland
superstars – that’s bursting with wildlife and untamed hills, yet overlooked
by almost everybody. It’s time you found out what you’ve been missing.
WORDS BEN WEEKS

IMON BUTTERWORTH / ALAMY
A typical scene in Scotland’s Southern
Uplands, looking north across Loch Skeen to
Lochcraig Head. High on drama, low on
humans, which is just how we like it.

Glen Wyllin, Isle of Man
Car &
2 adults
Sunsets, stargazing No luggage
fees from
and more awaits... £98*

each way
Stunning landscapes and incredible landmarks are closer than you think. Belfast
Take the ferry to the Isle of Man and you can pack so much more into
your getaway. Enjoy the freedom of taking your own vehicle and with Heysham
no luggage fees, you can bring everything you need. Bring your walking Isle of Man
boots and explore beautiful coastal paths and historic landmarks,
Dublin
before stopping to refuel on some delicious local dishes. With an array Liverpool
of natural beauty spots and outdoor activities to experience, a holiday

that lets you pack more in is only a ferry ride away.
Pack more in - sail by ferry.
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SOUTHERN UPLANDS
TOM BAILEY
Perfect solitude in the vast landscape of Saddle Yoke from Hart Fell.
strange thing happens when you drive into Scotland. of the Uplands. The area between is itself riddled with
As you leave the north of England in your rear-view multiple east-west faults which have been exploited by
mirror you enter an empty land of lonely valleys and rivers; Scotland’s third and fourth longest, the River Clyde
solitudinous hills. To anyone even slightly landscape- (171km) and the River Tweed (156km), drain the region.
curious, these places beckon and call. You may even But it is not the rivers and lochs that give the Uplands
promise to yourself that, one day, you’ll return to this their name, but their ranges of hills and mountains. The
wild country and give it the explorative attention that Galloway Hills in the west are perhaps the best known,
it deserves and you crave. But then your journey takes including Merrick – southern Scotland’s highest peak
you on into the busier, at 843m (and one of the Trail
100 summits). Over to the
“THE HIGH GROUND
more populated swathe
of Scotland occupied by east, the Cheviot Hills,
IS HOME TO GROUSE,
the likes of Glasgow and although mostly in the north
Edinburgh. Your focus of England, are also part of
shifts to the beauty and
tranquillity of the Highlands MOUNTAIN HARES, the Southern Uplands’ geology,
with the slopes of the Cheviot
that await beyond, and all
thoughts and memories GOLDEN EAGLES, itself sweeping over the border
into Scotland. However, it’s
of that blessed green land
you’ve already left behind HEN HARRIERS, DEER the land between, spread over
the Scottish Borders area, that
drift from your mind. This,
then, is the curse of the AND FERAL GOATS” perhaps offers the greatest
scope for exploration.
Southern Uplands. The network of glens and
First things first: what the interwoven green-sided
and where are the Southern Uplands? This under- hills that separate them have made large settlement of
appreciated area lies sandwiched between two major any kind difficult. As a result, the region is sparsely
geological faults. Its northern boundary is formed by the populated by people, which allows wildlife to flourish.
Southern Uplands Fault which runs from Ballantrae on The high ground is home to grouse, mountain hares,
the Ayrshire west coast to Dunbar in East Lothian on the golden eagles and hen harriers, as well as deer and feral
North Sea coast. Similarly, the Iapetus Suture fault line goats, and one fifth of Scotland’s red squirrel population
runs from the Solway Firth near Carlisle to Lindisfarne can be found in the western forests. Ospreys can be
on the Northumberland coast and is the southern limit spotted at St Mary’s Loch – the Southern Uplands’ 

“TAIL BURN PLUNGES THROUGH A HANGING
VALLEY TAKING THE FORM OF THE 60M HIGH
GREY MARE’S TAIL WATERFALL – THE FIFTH
HIGHEST IN THE UK”
Grey Mare’s Tail is one of the most

impressive waterfalls in the whole
of the UK, cascading 60m down the
valley from Loch Skeen.

SOUTHERN UPLANDS
largest natural body of water – while the many rivers

support populations of sea trout, salmon and otters. A VIEW FROM THE
That’s not to say that people haven’t made the Southern
Uplands home. The human history of the region is a SOUTHERN UPLANDS
violent one; battle-sites and fortified castles dot the
landscape – remnants of the raids, campaigns and wars Lyle Brotherton is the author of the Ultimate Navigation Manual.
fought between the English and the Scots. He has trained search and rescue teams all over the world, but
But back to those hills. With such a vast area sprawling has chosen the Southern Uplands as his home. Here’s why.
across the width of the country, it’s helpful to know
“I frequently spend an entire day on one of the 10 ranges of hills
where to start. While the peaks of Galloway and the
and mountains to be found in the Southern Uplands – from the
Cheviots are the best known of the Uplands’ uplands, to
Cheviots in the east to the Galloway Hills, 220km away in the west
get a genuine grasp of the area’s uniqueness, you need to
– without seeing anyone else. Hawick, my nearest town, is home
head to its heart. The hills east of Moffat offer just that.
to Scotland’s newest distillery, Borders Distillery, and another
At 821m, White Coombe is the Southern Uplands’ third product I really like, tweed, named after the equally famous wild
highest summit, and from its top you can see the second, salmon river. Golden eagles have recently been reintroduced and
840m Broad Law. Tumbling down from Loch Skeen, the a fifth of the Scottish population of red squirrels live here – two
high mountain pool that nestles below White Coombe’s in my garden! There is a great sense of tradition, a sense of being
summit crags, Tail Burn plunges through a hanging isolated from the rest of the world and yet with the new Borders
valley taking the form of the 60m high Grey Mare’s Tail Railway you can travel from Tweedbank, the heart of the Uplands,
waterfall – the fifth highest in the UK. The footpath up to Edinburgh in under one hour.”
past the waterfall is one of the more popular in the area,
but few visitors make the onward journey to climb to the
summit of White Coomb some 300m above the waters of Way visits geological wonders, historical curiosities, and
Loch Skeen. is saturated with breath-taking views set amongst some
The neighbouring Blackhope Horseshoe is a much of the most overlooked and under-visited nooks and
quieter outing, getting high and wild remarkably rapidly. crannies of the Scottish countryside.
Climbing from the banks of the Blackhope Burn not far Of course, not everyone will have the 12-18 days
from where it flows into Moffat Water, the route takes required to gobble it up in one go, and it’s certainly
in Saddle Yoke, skirts west of the boggy Rotten Bottom no undertaking for the faint-hearted. But there are
(other delightfully named landscape features in the area plenty of other, and markedly easier, ways to discover
include Porridge Cairn, Jock’s Shoulder, and the Devil’s the hidden beauty of the Southern Uplands. Next time
Beef Tub) before crossing Hartfell Rig to top out on the you’re driving to Scotland, consider stopping short of
808m summit of Hart Fell. From here the descent route the Highlands and spending some time in the Uplands.
passes Nubbery Knowes (how did it get that name? Or if you don’t want to forgo the joys of the far north
Nubbery Knowes), traverses Falcon Craig and Swatte altogether (and I won’t blame you for that), factor an
Fell, and descends down a long, sweeping hillside back extra day or two of travel into your itinerary and spend
towards the river. By the end you’ll have walked 13km, those exploring the green and ancient valleys of Southern
ascended nearly 1000m, and are unlikely to have seen Scotland. They are perhaps hillwalking’s best-kept
another soul. secret, so just be careful who you share them with. T
Over the other side of Moffat Dale – the valley that
■ For a fully mapped Galloway
carries the Moffat Water River – lie the Ettrick Hills walking weekend, see page 109.
gathered around the secluded Ettrick Valley – one of the
most remote places in the Southern Uplands. Another
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LITERARY TRAILS
WORDSWORTH
THE WALKER
One of England’s most influential Romantics turns 250 years old this month, and if he
was still around to celebrate he’d most likely do so with a walk in his local fells.
WORDS RONALD TURNBULL
A
fter a brief snack, William and Robert set off up Oh, plus he also wrote some poems.
Snowdon at about 10.30. It was late in the 18th If you’ve just read ‘Daffodils’, you might
century, and they hadn’t been in north Wales think Wordsworth was a soppy sort of fellow
before, so they’d hired a guide: the shepherd going for a half-mile ramble along the Ullswater
from one of the low, thatched huts of nearby Way. Think again! To get to those daffs,
Beddgelert. Well, that was what you did in the William Wordsworth and his sister, Dorothy,
18th century. The cloud was down, the weather strolled over from Grasmere, 10 miles over
was warm and windless. The rocks above the Grisedale Hause and down to Patterdale. And
path loomed briefly into view, as dark shadows no way was that one of their long ones.
in the gloom. A few drops of drizzle sparked It was in the 1790s that Wordsworth and his
briefly in a flash of light from the lantern. mate Coleridge were reinventing English poetry,
The lantern? Oh, I didn’t mention that their making it simpler and more direct, and also
parting snack was not breakfast, but supper... more emotional, stripping away the antiquated
These were serious fellwalkers, and for serious language and conventions of the boring old
fellwalkers like them why would you be at the 18th century. But their English Romanticism
top of Snowdon if it wasn’t sunrise? wasn’t just about verse. In the year of the
Given the absence of daylight, their actual French Revolution, it was about politics. It
route can’t be clearly deduced from William’s was experimental drug-taking, with opium
write-up. But from Beddgelert it’d be north and laughing gas. And along with all that,
up the old Roman road for a couple of miles, fellwalking was fundamental.
before striking uphill at Pitt’s Head farm to Wordsworth grew up with the ‘picturesque’
join the Rhyd-Ddu path. tradition of landscape appreciation. Natural
William, the older of the two young men, scenery wasn’t just cheaper than going to
would be having his 250th birthday this April. Florence to look at the paintings. It also
As he strode up Snowdon at the age of 21 he deserved just the same deep attention, the same
was already one of the foremost of the UK’s emotional engagement, as any human artwork
fellwalkers. A walker who regularly covered displayed in the Uffizi Gallery. And the best way
30 miles a day, on long-distance treks over to see the scenery was to walk across it.
Exmoor, across the Pennines, and all over And yes, they walked. They walked a lot.
Wales, as well as in Germany and the Alps. Starting before sunrise, travelling fast and
The man who would write what’s still one of light, and not stopping until sunset. While still
the most inspiring guidebooks to Lakeland, and students, William and his Welsh friend Robert
who virtually invented the way we look at the Jones trekked 3000 miles in three months
hills today, and our experience of the outdoors. through France, Italy and the Alps, which they 
“AS WORDSWORTH STRODE UP SNOWDON AT THE AGE OF 21,

Inspired by the British fells,
William Wordsworth was
a hardcore hillwalker.
WILLIAM WORDSWORTH BY BENJAMIN ROBERT HAYDON OIL ON CANVAS, 1842 © NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON
HE WAS ALREADY ONE OF THE FOREMOST OF UK FELLWALKERS”

crossed via the Simplon Pass. The Wordsworths and Should that go in, or not?
Coleridge made a four-day hike across Exmoor, during Wordsworth’s ascent is in the final Book 14 of
which they roughed out the poem ‘The Ancient Mariner’. ‘The Prelude’. Still today, a night at Snowdon summit
William trekked up the River Wye, from Bristol to is well worthwhile, even if you aren’t on any poetic
Symonds Yat, composing a poem as he went along. pilgrimage. Cloud inversions sometimes even get
And in 1791 he walked all over north Wales, over mentioned in advance on the Mountain Weather
six weeks with his Welsh friend Robert – finishing Information Service website. And for bivvy bag users,
with the ascent of Snowdon which he wrote up in there’s a gravelly ledge a few steps down the south-east
his very long poem ‘The Prelude’. ridgeline for great views of Y Lliwedd, plus you shouldn’t
be too bothered by noisy Three-Peakers arriving in the
Summiting Snowdon night up the opposite slope.
They headed uphill in that state of alertness combined Walk up a hill; look at a lovely view; and take a
with also being half-asleep that’s familiar to all photograph of it. Better still, take a selfie... But there’s
moonwalkers, especially if you fully enter the night no doubt that Wordsworth experienced the natural
by switching off the headtorch. The mist closed in environment far more intensely than most of us do today.
around them. After a brief moment of excitement – the And rather than wait half a century for the invention of
shepherd’s dog had come across a curled- the camera, his photographs took the
up hedgehog – they headed rapidly form of poetry:
upwards in silence, wrapped in
mist and also wrapped in “The sounding cataract
thought. I’m assuming Haunted me like a
William would have passion: the tall rock,
been writing a The mountain,
poem in his head. and the deep and
Otherwise, even gloomy wood,
in the night-time, Their colours
he ought to have and their
spotted that the forms, were
crossing of Bwlch then to me
Main is quite an An appetite;
exciting place to a feeling and a
be... love”
And then, at his
feet, “the ground
appeared to brighten; Wye
And with a step or two
seemed brighter still; For
wanderings
instantly a light upon the turf Fell His love poem to the landscape
like a flash...” Ninety-nine times you go up was composed during another long walk, a
Snowdon in the mist, in the dark, and you find yourself trip up the River Wye from Bristol, itself part of a longer
on Snowdon summit in the dark, in the mist. The one tour that started at Salisbury Plain. Anyone covering the
hundredth time, your head pops up out of a cloud 138-mile Wye Valley Walk today could carry his ‘Lines
inversion. Wordsworth, Jones, shepherd and dog found Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey’ and stop
themselves above a billowy ocean of cloud, lit up in silver a few miles above Tintern Abbey to read them. The
by the full moon. The point of Crib Goch stuck up like a spot described seems to be Symonds Yat, which makes
shark’s fin, and behind it a hundred hills heaved up their William’s ‘few miles’ a bit less than 20.
dusky backs. (The shark-fin simile is mine, by the way, The river arrives from the north-east to form a huge
so don’t blame Wordsworth for that one.) Out to the loop under the right-hand face of the rock, wanders
west, the cloud made a sort of shoreline, with the Irish nonchalantly into the countryside like a walker looking
Sea gleaming beyond it. Directly below them, a black gap for a place to pee, before returning from the north-west
in the clouds was full of the roaring from the streams of to form another huge loop under the left-hand face. The
Glaslyn. The dog still hoped for another hedgehog and waters are, as Wordsworth mentions, “rolling from their
wasn’t too impressed. But for Wordsworth it was a life- mountain-springs, With a soft inland murmur”. The
changing experience, and was to form the climax at the steep and lofty cliffs still, two centuries later, “connect
end of his autobiographical poem ‘The Prelude’. the landscape with the quiet of the sky”.
He doesn’t say anything at all about the descent – The traditional Wye walk sets off from Chepstow. But
probably already putting together the lines of blank you can also start, as William did, at Bristol. That way
verse in his head. “It was a close, warm, breezeless you take in the Avon Gorge and two stunning suspension
summer night, Wan, dull and glaring, with a dripping bridges, Brunel’s Clifton Bridge and the contrasting
fog...” And what about the hedgehog encounter? Severn Bridge on the M48, along with a bewitchingly ugly 

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LITERARY TRAILS
overview of Avonmouth. Wordsworths were on

Beautiful wooded paths horseback for 8 miles
lead upstream; the official onwards from there).
Wye Valley Walk takes you The moorland crossing
all the way to Pumlumon to Wensleydale makes
Fawr, the highest point in a grand start, and at
mid-Wales. Slapestone Wath, below
In the autumn of 1799 Castle Bolton, there’s
Wordsworth and Coleridge a spectacular set of
made a long tour of stepping stones across the
Lakeland – basically it was River Ure. Wensleydale
William showing the place waterfalls include the
to Samuel. Their route took three Aysgarth Forces,
them past every one of Mill and Whitfield Gills
the main lakes apart from at Askrigg, Hardraw
Coniston. A brief break Force and finally Cotter
in the weather saw them Force, which was painted
heading up Helvellyn, and by Turner 17 years later.
finally reaching the snow- The Wordsworth way
covered summit in a storm out of the valley head
of hail. Passing through is now the A684 main
Grasmere, William noticed road, which is just the
that a small house, the excuse you need to take
former Dove and Olive a diversion over Baugh
Bough Inn at the south end Fell just to the north. The
of the village, was available Dales Way conveniently
to rent for £20 a year. Wordsworth walking with Hartley Coleridge (the eldest son of poet
offers itself for the final
stretch from Sedbergh to
Pennine
Samuel Taylor Coleridge) near Rydal Lake in September 1900.
Kendal. The 100km route
journey has two youth hostels
A month later, William and Dorothy set out from and a couple of independents. Unfortunately, if you
Sockburn near Darlington for the 80-mile crossing of the walk in the authentic pre-Christmas period you’ll find
Pennines to their new home. They started on horseback, them all closed. Your reference material for the walk is
fording the River Ure by moonlight; but most of the at romanticpoets.org – look for the ‘Christmas Letter’
journey was on foot, following Wensleydale and visiting where William wrote about it to his pal Sam Coleridge.
every one of the Wensleydale waterfalls. This was in hard The Wye Valley; Snowdon at sunrise; Helvellyn in a
winter weather, just before the final Christmas of the hailstorm; Wensleydale in winter; or just the daffodil
18th century. Hardraw Force was especially splendid, walk out of Grasmere. Perhaps not the 3000-mile tour
crusted all over with ice like something out of Walt of Europe – but 2020 should be the year for at least one
Disney’s Frozen, but even better because of not featuring of the Wordsworth walks, along with the Wordsworth
that depressingly cheery Olaf the snowman. write-up. And perhaps start learning to really love
I had trouble making sense of their schedule for this nature, rather than just stop in the middle of it and take
one until I realised that, on their Day Two starting from a selfie. T
Askrigg the stop at Hardraw Force was merely their
midday break. Their habit of starting and also ending
their day in the dark should have given me a clue. They
did, in fact, do it in a one-er: the full 21 miles from
Askrigg to Sedbergh, with two separate waterfalls to Wordsworth’s love affair
stop off at, on one of the shortest days of the year. The
weather was stimulating: sunshine and showers of snow.
with Lakeland
“And I have felt
The walking was awkward on the hard-frozen trampled
roadway. But the wind behind them blew out their A presence that disturbs me with the joy
cloaks, and drove them forward like two ships at sea. Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime
William claims they made the 10 miles from Askrigg Of something far more deeply interfused,
to Garsdale in two hours and a quarter, and after a Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns
15-minute snack stop, the remaining 7 miles to Sedbergh And the round ocean and the living air
in 1hr 35mins. His distances are a bit wrong, it’s 14 miles And the blue sky, and in the mind of man:
not 17, but even so that’s jolly quick walking. A motion and a spirit, that impels
When I walked this one a few winters ago I started All thinking things, all objects of all thought
at Richmond, which has a bus service (although the And rolls through all things.”

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HOT TOPIC
I
Settling down by the warm glow of a campfire as the stars twinkle overhead is the
archetypal image of spending time with nature. But as wildfires become more of a
hazard across the world, we ask how, where or even if, we should make them.
WORDS SARAH RYAN

2020
A lone firefighter damps down the hot ground to
prevent it burning through the fire hoses during
the Saddleworth Moor wildfires in 2019.
T
he relationship between humans and fire stretches In the UK, many of these fires swept over
back as far as the existence of our species on the degraded peatland, which is resistant to fire when
planet, and has accompanied or led to every stage wet but highly flammable when dry. It is also
of our development. In the earliest days, hominins one of our most important wild habitats. The
used naturally occurring fire opportunistically, UK makes up 13% of the world’s blanket bog,
only later learning how to control it. We’re now which stores around the same amount of carbon
all dependent on fire – we couldn’t survive without as all the forests in the UK, France and Germany
it, or some form of combustion. combined. A healthy bog supports a variety
So when you sit by a fire outdoors, you are of life, from carnivorous sundew to bilberry
enacting something that our ancestors did as far bumblebees, mountain hares, wading birds and
back as the very first homo sapiens. We may now hen harriers, and a patchwork of colourful plants
live in a much more modernised way, but we are and mosses such as sphagnum, which can hold up
the same animals and the feelings that arise from to 20 times its weight in water.
gazing into the embers on a cold night are similar: But at least 80% of bogs are damaged,
IAN SKELTON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

comfort, warmth and security. leading to poor water quality, an increased risk
The world in which we exist is very different of flooding, the annual loss of 800 tonnes of
though, now being one in which our remaining carbon per square kilometre and a reduction
pockets of wilder habitat are under increasing in monocultures of grass or dwarf shrubs, such
threat. Last year, 137 wildfires broke out across as heather. They are also at far greater risk of
the UK, and in 2018 there were 79 in comparison wildfires. Clearly, it is important to be careful
to the 2008-15 average of 15. Across the world, and responsible about how and where we make
wildfires are increasing in size, frequency and level fires. So Trail spoke to three experts who
of devastation. work in the landscape to learn more... 

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HOT TOPIC
Tom Harman
National Trust Lead Ranger for West Yorkshire
During Easter weekend 2019, wildfire swept across Marsden Moor,
damaging seven square kilometres of moorland and taking four days
to extinguish. Since then, open flames of any kind – including fireworks,
barbecues and sky lanterns – carry a £150 fine penalty, plus a £20,000 fine if found
guilty of purposefully damaging a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).
“There were nine fires

on Marsden Moor last
year. In one day, several
fires occurred at different
“ONE OF THE
locations, and one was big MAIN CAUSES OF
enough to hit the news.
Seeing that was like being ACCIDENTAL FIRE IS
in another world. There
were flames and smoke DISPOSABLE BBQS”
as far as you can see and
everything beyond that
was charred and black.
The whole valley was on
fire and there were 15-20ft
flames in some places.
CHRISTOPHER MIDDLETON / ALAMY

It became so ferocious
that it traversed across a
main road which, on any
normal day, we would
consider to be a firebreak.
“A lot of the time you
struggle to see. You lose
all your reference points,
the only one you have is
a fire that is constantly
moving and changing with the wind. Your eyes try FOR PEAT’S SAKE it’ll support and the wetter it will be. But every time
to adjust to the intensity of the flames and then you Peat is no ordinary we have a fire it sets us back years and we have to
turn around into darkness and smoke… it’s hard soil. It is formed start from scratch. Marsden Moor suffered 24 fires
from compacted
to fight and quite a dangerous situation to be in. in 1976 – we’re still working to fix that damage.
vegetation which,
“Accessibility makes moorland fires particularly due to the highly “One of the main causes of accidental fire is
hard to deal with. It could take an hour on foot acidic and low disposable barbecues. Discarded cigarettes are
to get there, and you’re constantly chasing it. In a oxygen conditions another. One of our fires came from a waste bin. It
found in wetlands,
strong wind it moves at walking pace, if not faster. only partially doesn’t take much. Even discarded glass can act like
You need water, but we’re very far away from a decays. Sphagnum a magnifier. On Kinder Scout, a couple of years ago,
water source that the fire brigade can use. moss, which is a some people went out wild camping. They thought
large component
“Some of the damage is irreversible. Some of their campfire was safe but it got out of control.
of peat, also
the peat and soil up there has taken hundreds of releases tannins The ranger managed to put it out, but if we were
thousands of years to form and can’t be replaced. which slow the another half an hour away from it all of Kinder
We can make it wetter, more resistant to fire and decomposition Scout would have been ablaze.
process further.
more habitable for wildlife, but you’ll never get This and the
“We get a lot of backlash. People think we’re
back what was lost. There are patches on that moor amount of water going over the top when we ask them to put the
where the peat has been burnt up to a foot deep the moss can barbecues out, but we’d rather be putting out a
and we’ll never see that in our lifetime again. retain in its cells, small campfire than a raging wildfire.
actively help to
“Birds such as lapwings, curlews, twites and short- produce the boggy “The one thing we ask people is to just take a
eared owls nest in exposed areas on the moor, under land it loves to live picnic. Take sandwiches, a drink, a blanket and
grass or bracken. If that habitat is destroyed then so is on. Peat takes a pick a nice quiet spot. Avoid using disposable
year to grow 1mm
their home and source of food. We’re trying to make barbecues. If you see any fires on the moors,
and millennia to
this habitat a mosaic of different moorland plants form to the degree don’t assume that it’s controlled burning or that
because the more plants there are the more species we find today. someone else will have phoned it in – call 999.” 

“THE SCOTTISH OUTDOOR
ACCESS CODE ADVISES
AVOIDING MAKING FIRES IN
FORESTRY, WOODLANDS,
FARMLANDS OR PEAT”
David Chandler
Science Programme Manager, Moors for the Future Partnership
Based in Edale, Moors for the Future is dedicated to protecting and restoring blanket bog
across the Peak District and South Pennines. Since 2003 it has transformed over
32 sq km of degraded peat. moorsforthefuture.org.uk
“Wildfires pose a large threat to blanket bog. The soil along with wildfires, killed off a lot of vegetation, so
HOW TO HELP
contains a lot of vegetation which isn’t fully decayed Don’t burn you end up with big bare peat areas. We plant them up
so, as well as what’s growing on top, the soil itself barbecues, with grasses and other native moorland species which
can catch fire. Almost everything down to the rock fires or fire knit the surface together, helping to prevent erosion
pits on the
underneath, which can be three or four metres below, and protecting the water in the peat from evaporation.
moorland.
is a potential fuel source. In this changing climate, We also plant native bog species, such as sphagnum,
Don’t drop
where everything is getting drier or more extreme, cigarette ends which retain water for a long time. All of this makes
it’s an increasing threat. or matches. the peat and the vegetation less flammable.
“You need oxygen, fuel and an ignition source to Take glass “Once we’ve got the vegetation back, we do things
make fire, so we address the last two. A lot of our work bottles and like gully blocking, putting piles of stone or wooden
looks at helping degraded moorlands to recover, which litter away panels in the gullies to hold the water back and raising
with you.
means changing it to a wetter, more biodiverse state. the water table. Keeping the peat wet can also slow
“Large parts of the Peak District and South Pennines Call 999 if you the flow of water off the hillside. Unchecked flows of
see a fire, even
suffered from industrial pollution in the past, which, water can flood communities downstream, as we saw
if you think
it might be
controlled.
HOT TOPIC
THE KEY FACTS

■ 3% of the
Davie Black
world’s surface
is covered by Access &
peatlands.
■ But 30% of
Conservation Officer,
the world’s
soil carbon is
Mountaineering
stored there. Scotland
■ And 25% of
peatlands have Mountaineering Scotland helps to protect
been destroyed,
globally.
rights of access, which rely on responsible
■ 7.8% of the
and considerate enjoyment of the
world’s blanket landscape, including raising awareness
bog is found in
Scotland. of the dangers of lighting campfires.
■ The equivalent “Having a source of heat is probably key if you want
of 20 years of UK
CO2 emissions to eat at some point, and a camp stove is obviously
are stored in our the most practical and efficient way of providing it.
peatlands. If you’re camping close to your car and want a heat
■ 70% of UK source or a bit of social ambience then a campfire can
drinking water be quite attractive. So then it’s a matter of trying to
comes from
contain your damage.
peaty upland
areas. “As part of our access rights in Scotland, we have
an obligation to behave responsibly, which means
■ Heavy metals
such as copper, respecting the interests of others, caring for the
zinc, cadmium environment and being accountable for our actions –
and lead are three things that can be applied to any situation.
now found in
“There are obvious warnings to be made about
English moors in
such abundance dry areas and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code
that metal- advises avoiding making fires in forestry, woodlands,
eating bacteria farmland and peat. Your impact on peat is not
normally found
Fires are necessarily confined to the little circle that is burning.
on scrapheaps
a feature Dry peat can be especially dangerous as fires can
have been found
of many
camps,
in the peat. get really hot and smoulder underground, travelling
but at ■ The abundance through the peat and emerging nearby, where another
what of heavy metals piece of vegetation can catch light and set it off again.
cost? in water coming Leggy heather is another area of risk. You might be
off the Pennines
means that camping on quite a sandy, mineral-rich soil, but leggy
water companies heather, especially when it’s dry, can go up quickly. In
have to dispose a wild and remote area, which is difficult for the fire
of sediment in
service to access, it can get out of control.
their reservoirs
as toxic waste. “If you must build a fire, our advice is to make sure
in Fishlake near Doncaster at the end of last year. it’s a small one on something like shingle or stone
■ Large
“The uplands can be viewed as quite a bleak area moorland fires so you can clear up after yourself, and to be careful
but they’re a key habitat. Blanket bogs have a unique kill everything where you source your wood. I’ve seen people cut
biodiversity and the species there are found in very in their path: branches off trees which still have sap in. That is
wildlife, sheep,
few other places in the country, or even the continent. never going to burn, all it’s going to do is smoulder
nesting birds
“Healthy bogs are wetland habitats, even though and plants, along and smoke. If you’re camping at a lochside with a few
they’re on the tops of hills. They also feature a good with seeds and standing trees you can probably find some
mix of different species. Conversely, a more degraded spores so the deadwood. But if it’s a place people visit
plants cannot
bog might host one or two species of plant which naturally regularly and you’re scouring around
really dominate the landscape – often grass or heather. regrow. to find every last bit of deadwood then
Degraded bogs are also quite dry, which are easy to you’re having a negative impact on
walk across but not so good for the ecosystem, and the woodland itself by depriving it of
they’re more vulnerable to fire and erosion. key nutrients. In that case, bring your
“There are around 10 million people within an firewood with you.
hour’s travel and many of them are simply unaware “If there’s a burn site there already,
of how flammable the landscape can get. Disposable then use that. Think ahead about what
barbecues and discarded cigarettes can sit and you want to do and what will be left
smoulder before building into a full-blown fire. That’s behind. Minimising your impact on
a big threat, particularly during drier months.” the landscape is the key message.”

HILL HACKS
SKILLS, TIPS & TRICKS TO GET YOU HIKING LIKE A PRO
[L OA DI NG A DV IC E]
HOW TO BREAK
CAMP LIKE A PRO
1 3 5 7
Refill all your water Shake as much Pack up the rest of your Give your tent pegs a
bottles the night before water off the tent as stuff while breakfast rough clean on tissue,
so you can get a brew soon as you can after cooks, leaving your heather or moss as you
going the minute you wake up. getting up to help it dry faster, tent up to dry, if it needs to. pull them out. Collect them in a
and peg the doors open to air zipped pocket or a bag. Don’t leave
2 6
If you left your boots out the inside. Plan your day’s route them on the ground to get lost.
outside the tent or over breakfast and
4 8
inside the porch, Open the full length of pay attention to the Get into the habit of
check them for slugs before your sleeping bag’s zip weather: does it match the always scouting the
shoving your feet in them. They and spread or hang it forecast or might rain be coming area for anything left
love dark, damp, salty places. out while you prepare breakfast. in earlier than expected? behind before you head off.
■ S P O T T H E S TA R S ■ W A L K I N W AT E R
Look out for the Lyrid meteor Save the inside of your car
Draco Hercules
shower, which will be visible and make cleaning your
from 16-25 April. It’s expected to boots much easier with
peak on April 22, the day before a short schlep through
the new moon, so if the weather long grass or a fast-flowing
is good it should be highly visible. stream at the end of your
You don’t need any specialist Vega walk, leaving the worst
equipment to view it – just patience of the mud on the hill.
and warm camping gear.
Lyra
NE

K N O W YO U R RO C KS
Lyle Brotherton Sarah Ryan Rob Johnson MIC Ben Weeks

Navigation expert and Experienced outdoor International Mountain Leader
author of the Ultimate writer and qualified expedition leader and and Trail’s
Navigation Manual Mountain Leader mountain instructor senior writer
[GE A R BAS IC S]
KEEP ESSENTIALS
WITHIN REACH
Organise your rucksack pockets before you
start walking for quick and easy access to the
GRANITE
most important stuff, less time faffing and a
lower chance of losing things. Hipbelts are
great for compasses, which can be attached
to the zip by a lanyard. Things like snacks,
gloves, maps and hankies or tissues should WHAT IS IT?
also be kept within quick and easy reach.
An igneous rock formed by the
[GET TO GRI P S W I T H . . .] slow cooling and crystallisation
MAP with lots of detail such as scree and

bog indicated. Access land is also
of magma beneath the Earth’s
surface. From the Latin ‘granum’,
SCALES shown, coloured as a pale yellow
with an orange border, or green in a
meaning ‘grained’, it is rough and
usually composed of feldspar,
Yes, a map is essential outdoor wooded area.
lover’s kit, but which should you quartz, mica and small amounts
get? We break down the main scales 1:40,000 Used by Harvey of other minerals and can be grey,
available on Harvey and OS maps. maps. Each 2.5cm grid white or pinkish in colour.
square equals 1km and
1:12,500 Used on Harvey’s 1mm equals 40m on the
summit maps, this shows ground. Different to OS, WHERE IS IT?
enormous detail over a very contour lines are shown Cairngorms; Cornish coast;
limited area, with one 8cm at 15m intervals and index contours Mourne Mountains; El Capitán
square equalling 1km and at 75m intervals. Excellent for
1mm equalling 12.5m on route-planning.
and Half Dome in Yosemite; and
the ground. Great for route-finding Mt Rushmore. Kangchenjunga
on very complex terrain, but usually 1:50,000 aka OS (8586m), in Nepal, is the highest
overkill for walking. Landranger. Less detailed granite mountain in the world.
but covers a larger area.
1:25,000 aka OS Explorer. One 2cm square equals
Covers a smaller area 1km and 1mm equals 50m HOW SLIPPY?
in detail, with one 4cm on the ground. Features When wet or polished it’s very
square equalling 1km such as crags and marshy ground slippy, but good and grippy
and 1mm equalling 25m are shown, but boulders or smaller otherwise. Friction, steepness
on the ground. Great for paths aren’t. Good for long trips,
micro-navigation and hillwalking, planning or driving.
and soundness of the rock make it
great for scrambling and climbing.
Weird thing is it’s naturally
■ CLEAN UP ■ TRY BEFORE YOU BUY
THE HILLS Never buy a pair of boots, a jacket or any other
radioactive, containing up to 10
Stuff an old plastic bag
in a side pocket of your
significant item of gear without trying it out
first. No matter how high the spec, the fit is
times more uranium than most
pack so you can collect PICK more important. That’s especially true if you other rocks. It’s not enough to
rubbish you find on the
hill, while also avoiding IT UP have bunions, very long legs, or your hands get
really cold. Staff in specialist gear shops, such affect walkers though, so you can
getting any litter slime as George Fisher in Keswick, are trained to help
on your gear. you find the most comfortable and effective fit. leave the HazMat suit at home.

MASTERCLASS
Real world
navigation A ROUGH G I
Here’s the sixth in our series of
essential tips from navigation
expert Lyle Brotherton.
SCRAMBL
If you walk in the mountains regularly then you’ve
No.6 probably already been scrambling – you just didn’t
realise it. Scrambling is a uniquely British term to
HANDRAILS
A handrail can be a really useful navigational aid, describe the middle ground between walking and
especially if visibility is reduced. When you’re
walking in poor weather or low light it is a much
climbing, and a feature of many of our favourite
safer form of travel, and in severe conditions it is hillwalks. You might describe it as tackling the
essential. It can be any linear feature, marked on
your map, that you can walk alongside towards
sort of terrain your mum wouldn’t like...
your next attack point, such as:
■ Walls ■ Valleys
■ Fences ■ Paths, roads or tracks
■ Stream beds ■ Edges of forests
■ The bank of a river ■ Overhead power lines
■ Ridges (pylons)
EXPERT TIPS
■ Following a fence? Check its age and condition.
If it’s new make sure it’s the one on your map.
If its condition changes re-confirm your bearing
– a new fence may run in a different direction.
■ When following a track edge in poor visibility

you might mistakenly follow another track that
leads off it, such as a motorway sliproad,
so stick to the centre of the track.
■ Errors can be made where there are parallel

features with lots of similar features, for example
walls. Double-check before you follow a handrail.
Watch the video at shavenraspberry.com/training-videos

HILL HACK S
Grappling with rock on

Scotland’s Ring of Steall.
Scrambling is a great way to ROUTES & GR ADES
inject excitement into your Scrambling routes are graded in terms
mountain trips without having of difficulty, starting at Grade 1 up to
to use ropes or harnesses. Grade 3. Grade 1 routes are generally the
domain of the hillwalker, while Grades 2
and 3 tend to involve specialist equipment
usually associated with rock climbing,
such as ropes, helmets and harnesses.
Classic Grade 1 routes include the North

Ridge of Tryfan, Crib Goch, Striding Edge,
The Ring of Steall, Sharp Edge and many
more. Each main mountain area in the UK
will be covered by at least one scrambling
guidebook, featuring a huge range of
routes with descriptions, parking details,
gradings and inspiring photographs.
Recent guidebooks break the routes
down into plus and minus grades. If you
are just starting out then choosing some
Grade 1 minus routes will allow you to
ease into it without scaring yourself. A
Trail favourite is the Daear Ddu Ridge of
Moel Siabod in Snowdonia (March issue).
Grade 1 scrambling routes can be

roughly divided into ridges or gullies.
If winds are forecast to be stronger
than 30mph on the summits then ridges
are best avoided and gullies will offer
more shelter, though they often feel
steeper than the ridge equivalent at the
same grade. On the other hand, ridges
often feel more exposed if you aren’t
comfortable with heights.
SCR AMBLING MOVES

Moving safely on Grade 1 scrambles is all
about movement skills and route-finding.
■ Aim to move quietly with your feet.

This will make your foot placements
more precise.
■ Take small steps to maintain your
balance as you move.
■ Learn where your balance point is and
aim to stay well balanced. Don’t lean in
to the rock too much and, equally, don’t
lean out too much either.
■ Learn to continually assess risk
so you can manage it at a level that is
appropriate for you. Continually assess
the likelihood and consequences of a slip
and have strategies to deal with both.
■ Learn to choose the easiest line and be
aware that you may have to reverse it if
you come to a dead end.
■ Beware of loose holds – test things
before you commit your weight to them.
For more advice and inspiration,

check out the BMC’s video series at
tinyurl.com/BMCscramble

DI G I TA L N AV I G AT IO N
HOW TO ADJUST YOUR ROUTE ONN

Sebastian Kowalke is the editor of navigation app komoot, and on a recent wet and wild
hiking trip in Ireland he learned the value of switching plans quickly on a mountain route.
“A
t just over 1000m tall, trek around County Kerry, I encountered summit day dawned cloudy, and having
Carrauntoohil is pea-sized everything from rural tarmac roads to made it up to the secondary summit
compared to the soaring peaks rocky hiking trails. The trail took me of Caher we took a break to assess
of mainland Europe. But what Ireland’s through surprisingly remote landscapes our options. While chomping on nuts,
highest mountain lacks in altitude, it and introduced me to the full smorgasbord staring into the fog, a lone ewe and her
makes up for in rugged beauty. One of of rural Irish inhabitants, from friendly lamb appeared through the mist, having
the best ways to experience the drama of farmers to brightly marked sheep. chosen the highest peaks in Ireland for
south-west Ireland is by walking the Kerry “Notable highlights included a walk their pasture. Noticing our presence, the
Way – a 140-mile circular path winding through the Black Valley, one of the startled sheep retreated into the mist
around the Iveragh Peninsula, starting loneliest places in Ireland. There are as silently as they’d appeared.
and ending in Killarney National Park. only a few abandoned farms in the “If a sheep could disappear
“Last year, I did just that, plotting a rugged, barren, high valley, with into the mist before our
multi-day route using the komoot app then fewer people living here than any eyes, we figured
setting off fully prepared with an idea other place in the country. the path, and
of the elevation gain and route “Carrauntoohil isn’t on the official
terrain I’d be covering Kerry Way route, but I used komoot to
each day. On the plan a diversion up the mountain.
9-day Unfortunately the

A D V E R T I S I N G F E AT U R E
E X P E R T A DV IC E
THE GO
Looking towards the summit Carrauntoohil
(left) and the Hag’s Tooth (right). Ireland’s
highest mountain is a place of challenging Komoot editor
terrain and unpredictable weather, making
flexible route planning essential. Sebastian Kowalke
shares tips on how to
plan walks digitally
C R E AT E Y O U R O W N R O U T E S
Komoot is an app and online tool that lets you plan,
indeed the edge of the mountain, could
record and share your perfect outdoor adventure.
disappear too. Therefore, we decided the
safest bet was to retreat. We turned to View inch-by-inch
komoot’s offline navigation to get us safely terrain profiles
down the mountain and back on to the main of your route.
“
trail, where the route continued to show off
the beauty of the Emerald Isle, including
Analyse the ascent
and descent you’ll
some fantastic coastal walking. encounter.
■ Check out Sebastian’s 9-day route Easily distinguish

online in komoot’s Kerry Way Collection: between roads, tracks,
komoot.com/collection/683 paths and bridleways.
Save routes and maps
offline so they’ll work
without phone signal.
Follow your route
on the ground with
turn-by-turn voice
navigation.
S TAY FLE X IBLE

1
If you need to change your route
on the fly, while in navigation mode in
the komoot app, you can tap the map
to add or remove waypoints and then get back
to enjoying your walk. It’s that simple.
2
Worried you’re missing the best views?
While in navigation mode, look out
for red dots close to your route.
These are Highlights created by the komoot
community, from cool sections of trail to great
pubs. Tap each Highlight for more details and if you
see something of interest, tap ‘include on route’.
3
Hungry, thirsty or in need of a rest?
Simply pause your navigation in
the komoot app and tap ‘edit route’.
DOWNLOAD
Then use the ‘add waypoint’ function to display
points of interest like food and drink stops,
FREE MAPS! campsites, lakes, crags, summits and much more.
4
Komoot is giving YOU the If you’re using a smartwatch
chance to download a free map and need to make quick changes
bundle of your choice by visiting to your walk, quickly edit your
komoot.com/gift Simply sign route in the komoot app, then re-sync
up for a komoot account and your phone and watch and off you go.
5
enter the voucher code Plan around the weather forecast
TRAILSPRING Komoot Premium members can see
live and interactive weather forecasts
both before and while they’re on the trail, so you
can plan your adventure around the conditions.
#keswickreallakes
LONG DISTANCE
LDWA WALKERS ASSOCIATION
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GEAR
NEW RELEASES | TRUSTED REVIEWS | EXPERT ADVICE
The best
sleeping bags
for spring
overnight
adventures
TIME TO
DUST OFF THE
You’ll need
a sleeping mat
under your bag,
so we’ve tested
them too!
CAMPING KIT!
PLUS
Six of the
best compact
and portable
gas stoves
S T U N N I N G N E W C U I L L I N R I D G E G U I D E B O O K P 7 6 | CO M PAC T G A S S TOV E S P 78
S L E E P I N G M AT B U Y I N G G U I D E P 8 3 | 3 -S E A SO N S L E E P I N G B A G S P 8 4

Insi
THE LATEST INNOVATIONS IN OUTDOOR KIT
The pinnacle of guidebooks

Cicerone s new publication tackles
the UK’s most epic mountain terrain.
A
full traverse of the Isle of Skye’s Cuillin
Ridge is rightly regarded as the UK’s
most challenging mountain route.
The saw-toothed chain of dark peaks
that form ridge can be confusing and
bewildering to navigate, so it’d require something pretty
special from a guidebook to demystify this terrain.
Climber, Mountain Leader, photographer and author
of Skye’s Cuillin Ridge Traverse, Adrian Trendall lives
at the foot of the Cuillin and has made it his job to get
to know the ridge intimately. But translating first-hand
knowledge and experience into a form that helps others
make use of it isn’t always easy. This is far from the
first guidebook to be written about the Cuillin, so how
have Adrian and Cicerone gone about ensuring that this
is worthy of not only sitting alongside those existing
publications, but potentially replacing them as the go-to
reference? Put simply, they’ve endeavoured to make each
and every part of the book, and therefore the ridge, as
clear to understand, recognise and navigate as possible.
6 T H I N G S YO U N E E D TO K N O W
■ D U A L F O R M AT
The guide is actually two
books housed in a PVC sleeve:
one chunkier reference book
to review at home, and a
lightweight second book with
detailed maps, topos and route
descriptions to be taken on the
ridge traverse itself.
■ HARVEY MAPS
The guide includes many
annotated Harvey Maps
– arguably the best maps ■ ■ EXTRA
for use on the complicated Widde landscape photographs work SCRAMBLES
Cuillin – showing the main alongside
ngside the Harvey Maps to show The larger book gives
routes, alternative routes, a visual representation of the ridge details of 10 classic
and key features (such as and the mountains, again including scrambles that can be
bivvy spots) and landmarks annotated advice and options, making enjoyed on the ridge without
along the way. the route-finding process more simple. undertaking a full traverse.

GE AR
TRAIL W H AT’S H OT T H I S M O N T H
VERDICT
This new guidebook ensures that those
with the skills and ambition to tackle the
Cuillin Ridge have all the information
they need at their fingertips. It’s not
only a great example of a Cuillin
guide, but an indication of what
all mountain guidebooks
should be.
Do more, carry less

Rab’s Kaon insulated jacket mixes fabrics
throughout its construction to maximise
performance while minimising weight. The
body and arms of the jacket are filled with high
quality goose down (800 fill power) within a
light but windproof fabric. The hot areas under
the arms are uninsulated, while the shoulders,
cuffs, hips and sides of the hood use synthetic
insulation for improved weather resistance. An
excellent layering piece for big mountain days.
rab.equipment (£200)
Boots built for UK winters

The Karakorum HC GTX is not a new boot, but
2020 is the first time that La Sportiva has made
it available in the UK. Which is slightly odd
because, with its one-piece leather upper, high
cuff, Gore-Tex Performance Comfort lining,
chunky high-traction sole and
C2 crampon compatibility, the
Karakorum is about as perfect a
S E R IO U S S T U F F boot for the UK mountains
in winter as you could ask
PRICE £20 for. But it’s here now and,
AUTHOR Adrian Trendall we think, destined for
great things.
lasportiva.com (£300)
■ KEY ADVICE
The guide includes
information on strategy,
gear, training, navigation
and logistics, plus a
detailed section focusing
on the ridge in winter.
Weather beater
Here’s a not entirely useful fact: until renamed
‘Fitzroy’ in 2002, Finisterre (from the Spanish
■ D E TA I L E D ‘finis terre’ meaning ‘the end of the earth’) was
A N N O TAT I O N S the name of a large area of ocean off Spain in the
Photographs are also used shipping forecast.
More useful
to excellent effect to show
to know is that
how to tackle the numerous the Finisterre
climbing obstacles, giving Rainbird is a
such details as where the fully waterproof,
best holds, protection and soft to the touch,
lightweight jacket
belay positions can be that’s recycled
found. These are perhaps throughout.
the highlight of the lighter finisterre.
on-the-ridge book. com (£110)
YO U R T E S T E R
James Forrest
A prolific peak bagger
and wild camper who’s
climbed hundreds of
mountains in the UK
and abroad, James
gives his gear a
serious thrashing
on every trip.
SIX OF TH E B EST
Compact
stoves
Nothing warms the soul more after a long day on the trails
than a hearty, heated meal. Make sure you’ve got the best
gas stoves for your hill-top nosh with our handy round-up.
WORDS JAMES FORREST PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES FORREST & TOM BAILEY
t’s the end of a glorious day in the hills. say, eating a dehydrated expedition meal made
You’ve ambled through sun-drenched with cold water was far from the day’s end I’d
valleys, followed dancing becks, powered hoped for. It tasted like dog food. It’s an anecdote
up brutal ascents, glided over sweeping that reminds me of how incredibly important
ridges and posed triumphantly on exposed a camping stove is to your morale in the fells.
summits – and now it’s time to set up your A stove is your ticket to hot food and beverages.
tent. You feel happy and free. The cleansing power And there is something amazingly comforting
of the hills has worked its de-stressing magic. about a steaming meal or boiling coffee when
But there is still one final itch to scratch, one final you’re out in the wild. Hot sustenance, be it solid
need left unmet. Hunger. You deserve a hot, hearty, or liquid, will replace calories, restore your
delicious meal to complete the perfect day in the energy and boost your spirits. Cold food just
mountains. You reach into your backpack and doesn’t hit the spot in the same way.
disaster strikes – you’ve forgotten your camping Here’s our pick of the six best camping stoves
stove. Perfection? So close, yet so far. to help you avoid ever having to chow down on a
This happened to me on a peak-bagging expedition cold expedition meal in the hills – just remember
in the Wicklow Mountains of Ireland. And, suffice to to pack the stove in your backpack!


FIELD TE ST

SOTO Amicus with Stealth Igniter £40
The Amicus from Japanese an easy-to-use control valve.
firm SOTO is a lightweight and SOTO, which means ‘outside’
compact canister-top stove, in Japanese, makes a version
“High with a high performance level
considering its low price.
of the Amicus without an
igniter for £5 less.
performance The 3000W burner is pretty
powerful and the spread of heat IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY
level at a is decent, thanks to a relatively Other canister-top stoves, such as
low price” wide 4cm diameter. A concave

shape to the burner head offers
the 45g Robens Fire Midge stove,
are lighter than the Amicus for a
slightly improved performance similar price. Wind protection is
in wind and a nice touch is the minimal and no shield is provided,
‘stealth igniter’, which is housed while balancing pots atop the
inside the burner stem and stove can be a tad challenging
thus protected from snags and in poor conditions.
damage. There are four serrated,
inwardly-sloping pan support ■ BURNER DIAMETER 4cm
arms. And with a 10cm diameter ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 10cm
they are wide enough to ■ PACKED SIZE (LxWxH)
provide reasonable pot 10x5x4cm
stability. A clever ■ WEIGHT 81g including case
design means the ■ BOIL TIME
pan support arms 1 min 40 secs for 500ml
fold down flush ■ OUTPUT 3030W
to the stove
body, ensuring
a very compact
Verdict
A lightweight canister-top stove
pack-down into
at a great price – but it’s not
a simple fabric
as light as some.
case. You also get
Robens Fire Midge Stove Titanium £42 “Ultralight

MAGAZINE
BEST
At just 45g, the Robens Fire IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY
and folds down VALUE
Midge – which screws directly to Performance is poor in wind,
the top of your gas canister - is
amazingly lightweight and folds
as without adequate shelter the extremely small”
flame will blow out. The tiny
down extremely small. The Fire 2cm-wide burner head creates
Midge’s RRP is a tad misleading, a localised hotspot, the lack of
as it can routinely be found for an igniter is annoying, and the
around £25 online, making it a minimalist pan support arms are
stone cold bargain. It is, in fact, flimsy, meaning you might have
exactly the same as the Alpkit to hold your pan in place.
Kraku, with both firms using
Chinese manufacturer Fire- ■ BURNER DIAMETER 2cm
Maple. For this money-saving ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 9cm
price, you get three fold-out, ■ PACKED SIZE (LxWxH)
serrated pan support arms, 8x4x3cm
a twisted wire control dial for ■ WEIGHT 45g
increasing or decreasing the ■ BOIL TIME 2 mins 52 secs
power of the 2600W burner, a for 500ml
durable, corrosion-resistant ■ OUTPUT 2600W
titanium build, and a minimalist
carry bag. Combine the Fire
Midge with an ultra-lightweight
Verdict
A minimalist’s
pot and spork and you’ve
dream, this
probably created the lightest
is a sleek,
cook system out there. And if all
compact and
you need is hot water for a brew
miraculously
and an expedition meal, it does
light
the job perfectly.
canister-top
stove.

FIELD TES T
Primus Firestick £80

New for 2020, the sleek and lighter and a control valve for
cylindrical Firestick is an precise flame adjustment.
innovative re-thinking of the A titanium version is £30
canister-top stove. Most canister- dearer and 16g lighter.
top stoves struggle in wind
and are unstable, but Primus IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY
has effectively tackled these It’s quite heavy for a canister-top
problems. Three wide, curved pan stove and the small burner may
supports double as a windscreen cremate food to a pan’s bottom
“Best wind and the powerful 2500W burner is if you don’t stir regularly. The
protection for a protected by an integrated lip. For
a screw-on stove this is best-in-
support arms seem overly long,
compromising pan stability.
screw-on stove” class wind protection. In terms of
stability, the three pan supports
And despite the protective
design, performance in wind
have a 10cm diameter, serrated still isn’t perfect.
grips and slope towards the
burner to prevent pan slippage. ■ BURNER DIAMETER 3cm
The result is a pretty stable base ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 10cm
for your pot. All this functionality ■ PACKED SIZE (LxWxH)
comes in a tiny, pocket-friendly 12x4x5cm
package, about the size of a ■ WEIGHT 105g
pack of polo mints. The ■ BOIL TIME
pan supports cleverly 3 mins 30 secs for 1L
click into place ■ OUTPUT 2500W
around the burner,
ensuring snag-free,
compact storage Verdict
in a buttoned wool An innovative canister-top stove
pouch. You also get that is lightweight, compact and
an external piezo high-performing.
Coleman “Low profile

Fyrestorm PCS £75 for decent
It looks like a Jetboil-style heat
exchanger stove, but isn’t – no stability”
heat exchange coils here. Instead
the Fyrestorm PCS (personal
cooking system) is a traditional
burner onto which a windshield-
pot combo sits, thus completing
the integrated cooking system.
The set-up is a remote-canister
type, with a long steel hose –
including a Piezo igniter and
flame control lever – connecting
the gas canister to a three-
legged stove with HyperFlame
burner and three serrated pan
supports. The WindBlock shield
is pretty effective at protecting
the burner and boil times are
good, particularly in wind. The of all-in-one systems, but at this ■ BURNER DIAMETER 3.5cm
stove’s low profile ensures decent price you can’t complain. ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 11cm
stability, even though the 1.3L ■ PACKED SIZE (LxWxD)
pot is rather tall. Said pot has a IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY 14x14x19cm
neoprene sleeve and a twist- The plastic lid is too tight, making ■ WEIGHT 576g including pot,
and-lock system for syncing it hard to get on and off, and the windshield and lid
with the windshield – and once neoprene handle is too flimsy. The ■ BOIL TIME Verdict
synced they can house the stove igniter is a little temperamental, 4 mins 30 secs for 1L A real bargain for an integrated
and a 240g gas canister for a tidy and packing everything away into ■ OUTPUT 2200W cooking system, but it does have
pack-up. It’s far from the slickest the pot is fiddly due to the hose. some flaws.

FIELD TES T
“Ideal for cooking more complicated meals”

Optimus Vega £105
The Vega’s biggest selling point
is its performance in winter. The
gas canister can be turned upside
down, balancing in the inverted
position (known as ‘four season
mode’) on flip-out legs, thus
delivering liquid fuel. Boil times
are impressive in winter, and
Optimus claims you can even keep
your soup bubbling away at -20°C.
The Vega’s second USP is its set-
up, connecting to the gas canister
via a hose while the free-
standing stove is flush
to the ground. This
means the stove,
which has wide,
serrated pan stability, heat most compact option, so it’s 15x10x5cm
supports, is very distribution unlikely to appeal to ultralight ■ WEIGHT
stable and able and width enthusiasts, and it’s a tad on the 215g including windshield
to accommodate are ideal. expensive side too. The l ack of a ■ BOIL TIME
large pans. The You also get Piezo igniter is an inconvenience 4 mins 30 secs for 1L
burner itself is a folding foil and the windshield isn’t as ■ OUTPUT 3700W
wider than many, so windshield and a effective as stoves that have
produces a broader wire controller for integrated pans. Verdict
flame and reduces precise flame control. For stability and four-season
the risk of burning hotspots. ■ BURNER DIAMETER 5cm use this is a superb stove,
For cooking more complicated IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 17cm but it’s a tad heavy and
meals in the fells, the Vega’s This is neither the lightest nor ■ PACKED SIZE (LxHxD) expensive.
Jetboil Flash 2.0£120

This is the Ferrari of gas stoves a lid with strainer holes, and a
– seriously powerful, top-of-the- bottom cover that doubles up as
range tech and a pretty damn a measuring cup or bowl.
cool design. The Jetboil Flash’s
claim to fame is its 100-second IF WE’RE BEING FUSSY
boil time for 500ml of water, a The tall design isn’t the most
feat achieved by the ‘FluxRing’ stable and can be quite wobbly
“The heat exchange coils which once the water boils. It’s pretty
efficiently focus heat from the expensive and relatively heavy.
Ferrari of stove head to the integrated And while it’s faultless for hot
stoves, with pot. The result is an uber-quick
boil, and less faffing and waiting
drinks and just-add-water
expedition meals, it’s not
premium when you’re out in the hills. It’s the best for warming up
not all about power though. The or cooking other foods.
features” Flash has a host of premium
features: a 1L cooking pot with ■ BURNER DIAMETER 4cm
MAGAZINE insulating sleeve; seamless ■ PAN SUPPORT DIAMETER 9cm
BEST IN burner-to-pot integration ■ PACKED SIZE (LxHxD)
TEST with wind protection; a colour
change heat indicator, letting
11x11x18cm
■ WEIGHT 380g including pot
you know when your water with lid, cup and stabiliser
is ready; and a brilliant support
pack-away system ■ BOIL TIME
that enables you to fit 1 min 40 secs for 500ml
everything including ■ OUTPUT 2600W
a gas canister inside
the pot. You also get Verdict
a push-button igniter, A fast and extremely popular
a stabilising tripod stove that’s ideal if you only
for the fuel canister, need to boil water.

GE A R DIS SECTED
Sleeping mats
A good mat can make the difference between a long uncomfortable night and awaking
refreshed after a great restorative sleep. Here’s how to choose the right one…
PAC K E D S I Z E R E PA I R A B I L I T Y
Mats with smaller Inflatable mats become unusable if punctured, so
packed sizes are it’s useful if they come with some kind of repair kit.
easier to fit into a Foam mats are bulkier but far more resilient and
rucksack with your continue to offer insulation even when wet.
other camping gear.
Warmer mats are
usually bulkier, WEIGHT
so really compact A sleeping mat will probably
mats are best saved spend more time being carried
for summer. in a pack than being slept on,
so there’s a definite advantage
to a lighter weight. However,
robustness can diminish with
weight reduction, so there’s a
balance to be found.
TYPE
Mats mostly fall into one of three
categories: foam, self-inflating and
inflatable. Foam mats tend to be
light and less expensive, but thin to
sleep on and bulky when packed.
Self-inflating mats (take that with
a pinch of salt) are compact when
stored, but are often not the thickest
R-VA L U E mats to sleep on. Inflatable mats
R-value is a measure of thermal resistance. The are like air beds and tend to be more
higher the R-value, the warmer the mat. From 2020 comfortable, but they can also be
a new industry standard has been adopted by most cold unless they have some kind of
brands to standardise the measurement of R-value. insulation inside.
5 TO C H O OS E F R O M...
Robens Multimat Sea to Summit Therm-a-Rest NeoAir Exped

Zigzag Slumber £16 Superlite Air £45 Ultralight SI Regular £75 XLite Regular £160 DownMat 9 M £195
A tough and relatively An incredibly lightweight Tougher than entirely This thick and For really cold camps,
light sleeping mat that and packable mat with inflatable mats, with comfortable inflatable the down insulation
represents excellent an impressive thickness. internal foam for extra mat manages to inside this comfortable
value for money. Its Its low R-Value means warmth, this mat has a improve its warmth inflatable mat boosts the
folding foam design is it’s best kept for summer modest pack size and is rating through the R-Value to an impressive
not as compact as some, where it’ll make a great warm enough for spring clever use of reflective level. It has a built-in
but is unlikely to be fast-and-light camping to autumn use on all but inner materials, while pump to make inflation
damaged easily. addition. the coldest remaining swift and
■ Type Foam ■ Type nights. extremely simple.
■ Weight 320g Inflatable ■ Type Self- light and ■ Type
■ Packed size (LxWxD) ■ Weight inflating packable. Inflatable
48x15x9cm 330g ■ Weight ■ Type ■ Weight
■ Size (LxWxD) ■ Packed 550g Inflatable 997g
180x48x2cm size (LxD) ■ Packed ■ Weight ■ Packed
■ R-Value 2.2 24x6cm size (LxD) 340g size (LxD)
■ Size 26x13.5cm ■ Packed 24x16cm
(LxWxD) ■ Size size (LxD) ■ Size
183x49x7cm (LxWxD) 23x10cm (LxWxD)
■ R-Value 0.9 183x51x ■ Size 183x52x9cm
2.5cm (LxWxD) ■ R-Value 8.0
■ R-Value 2.6 183x 51x6.4cm
■ R-Value 4.2

3 -S E A SO N
Sleeping bags
Nothing beats a night in the great outdoors – provided you’ve got
a trusty sleeping bag. These versatile options should guarantee
cosy and comfortable kips from early spring to late autumn.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY MATT JONES
FILL
Down offers
superior warmth-to-
weight than synthetic fills,
but synthetic bags are
cheaper, easier to look
after and remain
warm when wet.
STOR AGE
SACK
In addition to a stuff
sack, many bags now
come with a larger cotton
storage sack that allows
the bag to loft and
breathe when not
in use.
CONSTRUCTION
Most bags use box wall
construction, to trap the fill
inside brick-shaped pockets
(baffles). Larger baffles give
more space for insulation
to loft, smaller baffles
help stop the fill from
spreading out.
ZIP
A full-length zip
allows you to vent heat
and makes getting in and
out easier, though a shorter
zip saves weight. Zips usually
have a baffle to prevent
cold spots, but make
sure it doesn’t snag.
CUT
Most bags T E M P R AT I N G
are available in Most bags give an
different lengths upper limit, a comfort
or widths, as well limit, a lower limit and an
as women’s FA B R I C extreme limit. The comfort and
specific lower limits are the best
Shells and linings
indicators of the actual SHOULDER
are usually made BAFFLE
temperature range.
from nylon, though
An extra neck or
cheaper bags use
shoulder baffle helps
polyester.
to lock heat inside
the bag.

HEAD
YO U R T E S T E R
Matt Jones
Mostly found walking
and camping in the
mountains, Matt is
an outdoors writer
and editor who has
been putting kit
through its paces
for nearly 10 years. E
Deuter Sea to Sum

PAC K S I Z E
AND WEIGHT
Exosphere -1 Traverse TvIII £200
+ +
A lightweight bag with a Warm, reinforce footbox, Versatile design, anti-sna ps, great
small pack size is easier to internal pocket stuff sack, roomy and comf rtable
stash and carry in your pack.
Compression stuff sacks - Heavy, bulky
- Basic hood, not the lightest or
most packable
really help cinch
down the size.
The Exosphere’s elasticated chambers bring This synthetic bag has dual side zips, offering
the synthetic fill close to the body to eliminate excellent temperature control and freedom of
cold spots, yet it can also stretch up to 25% in movement for both arms. The top third of the
width for added comfort. The unusual design bag folds down, while a footbox zip offers extra
results in a bag that looks very tapered but venting. The bag also fully unzips to transform
doesn’t feel restrictive once you’re inside, into a full quilt. This makes the Traverse a very
though the body-hugging sensation feels practical and versatile bag that offers plenty of
strange at first. It is very warm, making it ideal ventilation in hotter weather, while still being
for cold sleepers, and performance is boosted warm enough for camping in early spring, late
by the wrap-around collar baffle and padded autumn and even the milder winter months. All
footbox, which has extra fill to keep toes cosy. the zips are backed with chunky baffles to ward
Moisture-resistant dry zones at each end off cold spots, and an insulated neck baffle
prevent the bag from getting damp, which is locks in warmth. The tapered rectangular cut
great for bivvying or if your head and feet touch is roomier than a mummy shape, the zips are
the walls of your tent. There’s also an internal anti-snag and the compression stuff sack is
pocket for storing small items and it comes in durable. It’s lighter and packs smaller than
a men’s and women’s (SL) fit. The bag is quite other synthetic bags too. The hood is basic,
heavy and bulky when packed though. though it does have a drawcord adjustment.
■ Fill Synthetic ■ Fill Synthetic

■ Temp rating -4°C comfort, -10°C lower ■ Temp rating -4°C comfort, -10°C lower
■ Weight 1885g (men’s), 1880g (women’s SL) ■ Weight 1440g (R), 1670g (L)
■ Pack size 37x24cm (men’s) ■ Pack size 36x23cm (R)
■ Sizes One size ■ Sizes Reg, Long
Pack size ★★★★★ Pack size ★★★★★
HOOD
An insulated and
Verdict Weight ★★★★★ Verdict Weight ★★★★★
A very warm Features ★★★★★ A comfortable, Features ★★★★★
close-fitting hood
bag, but high Performance ★★★★★ practical and Performance ★★★★★
makes a big difference
performance Value ★★★★★ versatile bag for Value ★★★★★
in cold conditions. Look
comes at the cost OVERALL variable conditions OVERALL
for a bag with hood
drawcords so you
of weight and bulk. SCORE 72% in most seasons. SCORE 80%
can adjust the fit.
Alpkit Mountain Hardwear Mountain Equipment
PipeDream 400 £220 Lamina Eco AF 15F/-9C £220 Earthrise 600 £300
+ Comfortable, lightweight, small pack
size, good value + Recycled materials, warm, lightweight,
small pack size + Recycled materials, warm,
well-made
- Not as warm as premium down bags

or bulkiest synthetics - Slim fit won’t suit all builds
- No internal pocket, short but squat
pack size
Thanks to its competitive price, low weight The first thing you notice about this bag The Earthrise 600 is a well-made bag that
and decent pack size, this down bag is a is that it is pure white. That might seem a lofts beautifully, using 650 fill power recycled
perennially popular choice for wild campers, strange choice for outdoor kit, but there’s down. The shell and lining fabrics are also
long-distance backpackers and climbers. The a good reason. The fabric is undyed, which 100% recycled. An offset footbox, slanted
750 fill power goose down fill provides good saves thousands of gallons of waste water baffles and a contoured hood all help to boost
warmth for weight, resulting in a bag that is in production. On top of that, it’s made with a warmth, and Mountain Equipment’s real-
comfortable to about -6°C but which packs recycled shell, lining, insulation and trims. world ‘good night’s sleep’ temperature rating
away neatly in its compact stuff sack. The Very warm yet lightweight, the pack size is guarantees comfort down to -9°C, making the
latest version utilises hydrophobic down in a remarkably small for a synthetic bag, due to a bag warmer than the specs would suggest.
moisture-resistant shell for improved damp clever design that utilises a virtually stitch- The excellent neck baffle fastens with a
weather performance, and the hood has been free laminated construction to eliminate cold popper, while a nicely designed hood has long,
beefed up with extra fill. Other features all spots. There is also a contoured footbox, easy to grab drawcords. The two-way zip
work well, from the full-length, anti-snag zip tailored hood with drawcord adjustment and runs smoothly and has a stiffened, insulated
to the shaped neck baffle, which tucks neatly a shaped neck baffle to lock in warmth. The baffle too. It’s a shame there is no internal
around the chin. The relaxed mummy shape superb two-way zip glides easily. The only real pocket though. The cut is close to the body,
should be comfy for most, but can be adjusted drawback might be the fit, as the cut is highly so it’s not the roomiest. The design of the
using the drawcords to lock in warmth. tapered and best suited to slimmer builds. stuff sack gives a small overall pack size
but also a rather squat shape.
■ Fill 750 fill power down ■ Fill Synthetic
■ Temp rating -4°C comfort, -10°C lower ■ Temp rating -3°C comfort, -9°C lower ■ Fill 650 fill power down
■ Weight 865g (R), 910g (L) ■ Weight 1047g (S), 1090g (R), 1160g (L) ■ Temp rating -1°C comfort, -8°C lower
■ Pack size 25x18cm (R) ■ Pack size 28x21cm (R) ■ Weight 1070g (R), 1105g (L)
■ Sizes Reg, Long ■ Sizes Short, Reg, Long ■ Pack size 28x24cm (R)
■ Sizes Reg, Long
Verdict Pack size
Weight
★ ★ ★ ★★
★ ★ ★ ★★ Verdict
Pack size
Weight
★★★★★
★★★★★
Pack size ★ ★ ★ ★★
Weight ★ ★ ★ ★★
A popular bag for
good reason, with
Features ★ ★ ★ ★★ Offers plenty of Features ★★★★★ Verdict Features ★ ★ ★ ★★
Performance ★ ★ ★ ★★ warmth in a compact, Performance ★★★★★ Eco credentials and Performance ★ ★ ★ ★★
a great balance Value ★ ★ ★ ★★ lightweight and Value ★★★★★ top performance, Value ★ ★ ★ ★★
of performance,
OVERALL sustainable package. OVERALL though the fit might OVERALL
packability and value. SCORE 88% SCORE 88% not suit everyone. SCORE 80%
D TO HEAD
MAGA ZINE
BEST IN
TEST
Haglofs Rab Patagonia

Ursus -9 £310 Neutrino Pro 400 £355 850 Down 19°F/-7
+ Range of sizes, warm, go
internal pocket
hood,
+ Warm, comfortable, lightweight,
small pack size, useful features + Warm, comfortable, roomy,
lightweight, small pack size
- Fairly heavy, bulky, awkward stuff sack

- Lower temperature limit doesn’t quite
match the bulkier bags here - High price, lower temperature limit
doesn’t quite match the bulkier bags
This robust and durable bag is filled with a This 800 fill power goose down bag delivers This premium 850 fill power down bag has
mix of 600 fill power down and hollow-fibre excellent warmth for weight and packs down impressive loft and superb build quality.
insulation, blending the thermal performance small. It’s also more weatherproof than Being cocooned inside it is pure luxury, with
of down with the moisture resistance of most down bags, thanks to hydrophobic high levels of both warmth and comfort.
synthetic fill. It feels warm and has a close- fill and a water-resistant shell. The design The mummy fit is surprisingly roomy, with
fitting hood, as well as a chunky neck baffle to incorporates a collar baffle, shaped hood, generous length even in a regular fit. The low-
trap heat. The cut isn’t restrictive, while the and angled chambers which are arranged profile hood hugs the head without feeling
two-way zip runs smoothly and is backed with in chevrons to keep the fill over the centre restrictive, while the footbox is contoured to
a stiffener to prevent snagging, as well as a of the body. The shaped footbox, generous minimise dead space while allowing ample
padded baffle to ward off chills. The large length and extra room for the upper torso movement. Differential baffles prevent cold
zipped internal pocket is ideal for keeping make this a very comfy bag. The two-way spots, and the unusual centre zip has very
your phone, batteries or even socks warm. anti-snag zip is backed with a chunky baffle effective twin inner baffles. The main zip also
There’s also a nifty pillow pocket that can be and the zip puller even glows in the dark. has three-way adjustment, which gives good
stuffed with clothing. The bag is only let down There is a small zipped internal pocket too. ventilation. It all works extremely well, and
by its weight and the stuff sack, which has The practical roll-top stuff sack compresses the bag doesn’t seem to get twisted no matter
awkward compression straps that produce well. The bag’s lower temperature limit how much you wriggle. In fact, this is probably
a bulky and untidy lump when packed. doesn’t quite match others, but you’ll still be the most comfortable bag on the market. The
toasty in sub-zero conditions. only drawback is the eye-watering price.
■ Fill Synthetic/600 fill power down blend ■ Fill 800 fill power down
■ Temp rating -3°C comfort, -9°C lower ■ Temp rating -1°C comfort, -7°C lower ■ Fill 850 fill power down
■ Weight 1450g (S), 1580g (R), 1700g (L) ■ Weight 819g (R), 882g (L) ■ Temp rating -1°C comfort, -7°C lower
■ Pack size 32x26cm (R) ■ Pack size 32x17cm (R) ■ Weight 830g (S), 913g (R), 978g (L)
■ Sizes Short, Reg, Long ■ Sizes Reg, Long ■ Pack size 30x18cm (R)
■ Sizes Short, Reg,
Verdict Pack size
Weight
★★★★★
★★★★★ Verdict
Pack size
Weight
★★★★★
★★★★★
Long
Pack size ★ ★ ★ ★★
Weight ★ ★ ★ ★★
Warm and Features ★★★★★ Features ★ ★ ★ ★★
comfortable, only Performance ★★★★★
Compact, warm
and light, with
Features
Performance
★★★★★
★★★★★ Verdict Performance ★ ★ ★ ★★
let down by the Value ★★★★★ top wet-weather Value ★★★★★ A super comfy Value ★ ★ ★ ★★
bulk and weight premium bag – at
OVERALL performance and OVERALL OVERALL
when packed. SCORE 72% great features. SCORE 96% a premium price. SCORE 92%
MOUNTAINEERING IN SCOTLAND!
Skye’s Cuillin Ridge
Sgurr Alasdair
Sgurr Thearlaich 1
p
Eastern Traverse t ga
Firs ap
Western Bypass nd g
Seco
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ea
tS
3
bivi i to
ne
C hu
4 te
ii
slab
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iii
NEW iv
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Bealach Mhic
Choinnich
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Strategies, advice, detailed topo booklet

and 10 classic scrambles ADRIAN TRENDALL
• all the information to plan and complete the full traverse
• ‘Cuillin Ridge Light’ tactic provides alternative bypass options
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• includes 88 page detailed topo booklet
COMPETITION!
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Comfortable, friendly guest house close to town
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FORT WILLIAM
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ANDREW STANLEY
Clinical Director and State Registered PODIATRIST
Andrew Stanley BSc(Hons) PodM MChSSRCh
Leg or foot problems? On various routes across Derbyshire, Cumbria, Northumberland

Trail’s expert can help! He offers:
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www.reboundclinic.co.uk and Yorkshire. Earn £8.00 per bag that you deliver!
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www.trailmagicbaggage.com trailmagicbookings@hotmail.com
GET READY
FOR ADVENTURE
OS Maps (Digital) OS GPS Range OS Leisure Maps
Shop now at os.uk/shop

SPRING
SUMMITS!
6 S T U N N I N G M O U N TA I N W A L K S P 9 3 | E P IC W A L K I N G W E E K E N DS P 1 0 5 & 1 0 9
TOM BAILEY
C L I M B SC A F E L L P I K E P 1 1 3 | SC R A M B L E SCOT L A N D’S M I N I M O U N TA I N P 1 1 8
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Contents
Where to walk this month...

EXPERT GUIDES TO BRITAIN’S BEST MOUNTAIN ROUTES
ALWAYS
CARRY A MAP!
Trail routes are written
as guides, but for detailed
Scramble Stac Pollaidh mountain navigation
you must carry a printed
Chiz Dakin James Forrest to-scale map. All of
Award-winning writer, Record-breaking UK our routes come with
photographer and mountain peak bagger recommended maps
film-maker. Avid traveller. and author. at a variety of scales.
4 Isle of Harris
Steve Goodier Peter Edwards 1 Beinn Eunaich

Author of 7 walking Scottish Isles expert, and
guidebooks, Steve author of three Cicerone
loves the UK hills. guides to the region.
10, 11, 12 Galloway
2 Pillar
3 Great Gable
6 Black Combe WOAL The Scafells
Nick Livesey Ange Harker
Acclaimed Snowdonia- Nidderdale born and bred,
based author & and an experienced
photographer. walking guide.
5 Carneddau
7, 8, 9 Arenigs
Ronald Turnbull
Creator of a whopping
30 guidebooks and 18
unique coast-to-coasts.
EXCLUSIVE
50%
DISCOUNT
FOR TRAIL
SUBSCRIBERS! M O U N TA I N S A F E T Y
GET TRAIL ROUTES ONLINE Walking in the UK mountains can

be dangerous, with rough terrain,
USEFUL RESOURCES
Trail has partnered with the Ordnance Survey’s digital Met Office Mountain Weather
service OS Maps, where you can view all of our routes online exposure and changeable weather. Forecast: metoffice.gov.uk
and follow them on your smartphone. Trail subscribers get Always check weather forecasts Mountain Weather Information
a 50% discount for a year of OS Maps, where you can view and make sure you have suitable Service: mwis.org.uk
and print Ordnance Survey maps for all of Britain at no extra
cost, and plan and navigate your own walks. See page 36 clothing and navigation tools. Ice Avalanche forecasts: sais.gov.uk
for how to subscribe, or visit LFTO.com/routes axes and crampons are essential for Mountain rescue: Call 999, ask
walking in snow and ice – as are the for police, then mountain rescue
IN ASSOCIATION WITH knowledge and skills to use them. Skills courses: mountain-training.org
We take all reasonable steps to ensure Trail routes are safe and correctly described. However, all outdoor activities involve a degree of risk.
The publishers accept no responsibility for any errors or omissions, or for any injuries or accidents that occur while following these routes.

MAGAZINE
West Highlands 1
SHORT-ACCESS MUNROS
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 13KM
TIME 5½ HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 1300M
PEAK BAGGER STATS
MUNROS 2
CHIZ DAKIN
On the lower
Beinn Eunaich & Chochuill slopes of

Stob Maol.
Nearby road access, a lovely ridgeline, some (optional) scrambling and great
views make this more than just a tick-list West Highlands outing!
G
aelic hill-names can be hard to over Stob Maol – ascending past the crags on
pronounce for English speakers, the southern slopes is infinitely easier than IS IT FOR ME?
so it’s perhaps no surprise that picking a safe way down them from above, FITNESS Short but
these two hills names are often corrupted and avoids unwittingly being drawn into steep access is tougher
to Cockle and Eunuch. That said, it would more difficult crags by the waterfall above fitness-wise than the
be interesting to know if the first irreverent Eas Eunaich. This way, the crags below Stob map suggests
walker was aware that the translation of Maol also provide some fun (but entirely
TECHNICALITY A mix of
Beinn a’ Chochuill is usually taken as ‘hill of optional) scrambly sections.
broad rounded ridges,
the shell’ (with ‘hill of the cowl’ being a rarer Steep crags line the slopes into the remote
rough ground and
variation). Sometimes the truth is said in jest! Glen Kinglass as you enjoy the view to Ben
rocky edges, optional
Amusing mis-names or not, these are both Nevis, but perhaps the best views are of the
scrambling
fine hills, but don’t mistake Eunaich as being Stob Daimh end of Ben Cruachan’s sharp,
the easier of the two! The walk is best taken complex ridgeline from Beinn a’ Chochuill’s TERRAIN Steep but
anticlockwise, with an ascent of Eunaich summit and Stob Maol. CHIZ DAKIN rounded hills, some
untracked rough
ground. Craggy edge
l
ll
ao
between summits,
i
oc ’
h
hu
Ch n a
M
ic
sh
na
t
in
ob
ni
ar
Be
Eu
crags on lower slopes

Fi
St
St
1400
1200 of Beinn Eunaich
IN METRES
1000
800
NAVIGATION Nav should
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 be fairly good, thanks to
200
0 broad features
KILOMETRES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

1 West Highlands MAGAZINE
SHORT-ACCESS MUNROS
NN135287 From the more direct line upwards

1 lay-by, cross the onto Stob Maol on grassy
bridge then take a track slopes or more broken
on the left (to Castles rock scrambly bits. Soon 4
Farm, unsigned). Cross a the gradient eases
6
cattle grid, then almost considerably and the 5
immediately fork left. first glimpses of the
Stob Daimh’s sharp panorama above begin to
horseshoe ridge stands open up. Keep rising up
proud to the left of the grassy slopes and a faint
valley and looks path appears towards the
significantly more severe left of the broad ridge at
than the rounded slopes about the 500m contour.
of our two hills ahead. Bend gently north-east
Cross under a power line around the 700m contour return
and fork left at a track and a low rocky spine from the
junction, passing through leads over a false summit summit. 7
a gate. near the 900m contour. Immediately
beyond this the
NN135296 Go NN135327 The stony path rises to an
2 through a second
4 summit is marked outcrop crowned
gate to leave fenced-in by a cairn. Continue past with small rocks
pasture, then fork right this, heading for a (which look vaguely
onto open hillside. Work distinctive larger boulder armadillo-like, hence
your way up the steep ahead and to your left. ‘Armadillo Rocks’). The
lower slopes of Stob The path is intermittent in path now bends slightly
Maol, zigzagging places but descends the north, dips briefly, then
generally a little ridgeline through scree ascends the final 100m or
rightwards to avoid the and blocky rocks at the so along a narrow but
3
worst of the crags and top then grass lower mostly easy grassy ridge
outcrops on its lower down. Just over halfway with great views over
slopes, across a couple of down to Lairig Ianachain Glen Kinglass to your
boggy sections and up a the ridgeline bends gently right and Ben Cruachan/ 2
grassy ramp. There are left towards the col. Stob Daimh to your left. directly down the
some pleasant easy ridge. Although
scrambly sections on NN127328 The NN109328 Retrace steep it is never
broken rock (entirely
5 initial rise from the
6 your steps back past unpleasantly so and
optional) for those who col passes an early band ‘Armadillo Rocks’, then the path is well worn
seek out every of boulder outcrops, then fork right at the cairn down to about the 550m
opportunity to get their rises to a wide rounded (NN117325) before the contour. After this it
hands on rock! grassy top. At a shallow rounded grassy top. The fades as everyone
bealach beyond this, look path descends diagonally chooses their own line 1
NN135303 At about out for a cairn – this left across the hillside to down through boggier
3 350m contour the marks the start of your gain the southern ridge, ground with an
crags thin out. Take a descent path on the then descends more occasional small outcrop.
Beinn Eunaich’s
NN123315 Reach an
north-east ridge.
7 access track at a
cairn and turn right down
this. At a junction with
another track, turn left
and down to the Allt
Lairig Ianachain bridge.
Cross this (ignoring a
hydro track to the right
which is not marked on
the OS maps), then follow
©CROWN COPYRIGHT 2020 ORDNANCE SURVEY. MEDIA 021/20
the track gently downhill

to a junction after the two
gates by Castles Farm.
Turn right here, then
right at the final junction
before a cattle grid. Turn
right onto the road to
return to the start.
GET THERE EAT & DRINK STAY OVER BEST MAPS

Small lay-by near bridge Ben Cruachan Inn if you Some rooms at Brander n OS Explorer 360 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
over Allt Mhoille on really love dogs. Otherwise Lodge have a door out n OS Landranger 50 (1:50k) YOUR PHONE!
B8077. Loch Awe railway seek out Brander Lodge’s onto a small patio area by n Harvey British Mountain LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
station (on the Tyndrum Bistro at Taynuilt – fresh the garden area – lovely In association with
Map Southern Highlands
to Oban line) is just 2km local produce and great spot to relax in the sun (1:40k)
away. steak pies. after a walk!

MAGAZINE
Lake District 2
MOUNTAIN SCRAMBLE
DIFFICULTY HARD
DISTANCE 13.8KM
TIME 7 HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 1747M
PEAK BAGGER STATS
WAINWRIGHTS 1
TRAIL 100s 1
Looking out
JAMES FORREST
Pillar of perfection over Pillar
Rock from
above.
There is no finer way to summit the Lake District’s Pillar than via the
High Level Route and Shamrock Traverse.
T
his adventurous, adrenaline-inducing leaving the summit tantalisingly out-of-reach
walk is your chance to get up close of hikers. But this route enables hillwalkers IS IT FOR ME?
and personal with Pillar Rock, to get as close to the action as safely possible.
FITNESS Good hill legs
Lakeland’s ‘most handsome crag’, as Alfred The High Level Route is a rough trod over
required for significant
Wainwright put it. It certainly is a striking, rugged terrain, while the Shamrock Traverse
ascent and rough
imposing tower of rock; a seemingly is a tilted rake featuring a heart-in-mouth
terrain
impenetrable column that juts out of Pillar’s shuffle across a slab of slanting rock with
north face like a dark, craggy cathedral. precipitous drops on one side. It is a tricky TECHNICALITY A tough
Making it to the summit of Pillar Rock walk, with some exposure and sections of mountain day with
is the preserve of rock climbers and skilled rocky scrambling – and losing the trod could some non-technical
scramblers only, due to the plunging rift be fatal. But nowhere is it actually technically scrambling
of Jordan Gap. This vertical cleft creates difficult and the views of Pillar Rock make TERRAIN Rugged,
a distinct separation between Pillar and all the effort, and fear, worth it. rocky terrain with
High Man, the highest point of Pillar Rock, JAMES FORREST some exposure and
scrambling, as well as
irn
ss
ss
good fell paths

d
Pa
Pa
Ca
ea
p
p
’s
St
Ga
Ga
on
NAVIGATION Good
g
ns
in
th
th
sh
ar
ok
ar
ar
t
bi
ni
ar
ll
Ro
Lo
Sc
Sc
Pi
Fi
St
1400 navigation skills are

1200
required on the High
IN METRES
1000
800 Level Route, as the trod
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 could be easy to lose in
200
0 poor visibility
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12

2 Lake District MAGAZINE
MOUNTAIN SCRAMBLE
NY194149 Cross the gully briefly before

1 road, aiming to the trending left and Hiking the
right of a barn, and go traversing north-west. Be Shamrock
through a gate to the left careful to stay on the trod Traverse.
of a stream. Veer left because the surrounding
through another gate and terrain is perilous.
follow the lane heading Descend a few rocky
south-west to cross steps, cross a scree slope
Peggy’s Bridge. Go of large rocks and
through a gate and take continue north-west over
the path straight ahead. undulating terrain.
Ascend diagonally to the Traverse a long section
right of trees before below crags and cliffs,
turning sharp left and before arriving at flatter
ascending south. Climb terrain. Climb ahead to
steadily, sticking to the Robinson’s Cairn. Veer
right of a fence and wall, left into Pillar Cove,
and arrive at a gate. crossing a boulder field.
Beyond the gate, veer Ascend briefly and turn
slightly right away from left. Climb up a rocky
the fence, and continue to groove and a winding trod
climb south. Cross a over scree. Above a wall
stream, go through a gap of rock, turn right and between a wind shelter
in a wall, follow a series of start the Shamrock and small cairn. Head
large cairns and emerge Traverse. Follow the south briefly to Pillar’s
at the top of Scarth Gap. wide, tilted shelf summit.
north-west over initially 1
2 NY189133 Go
straight ahead and
easy ground before
negotiating a slanting
4 NY171121 Retrace
your steps down to
descend south towards rock. Next veer left up a Pillar Rock and along the
Ennerdale Valley. Cross rocky gully before Shamrock Traverse. Exit
Scarth Beck and trend skirting right around a the traverse and descend
left. Descend alongside a rocky outcrop. Arrive at a north-east to where the
fence and arrive at a stony cairn with superb views of path swings sharply east.
track next to a gate. Turn Pillar Rock. Turn left and Instead turn left down a
left and head east to Black traverse west to below grassy rake, cross a
Sail Hut. Continue Pisgah. Turn left again stream and turn right.
south-east and turn right and climb south on a good Descend north over
over a footbridge. Ascend trod that winds mostly pathless slopes,
south on a path following upwards following a stream.
Sail Beck. Scramble over over Where the stream
a brief rocky section and plunges over steeper
continue south. Veer right terrain, veer left slightly
and then left to emerge at and negotiate a rocky
the col below Kirkfell scramble. Pick up a stony
Crags. Turn right and 2 path and descend to a
follow a line of metal fence. Turn right, cross a
fence posts north-west. stream and pick up a trod
Pass a small tarn and heading east along a
veer right off the path, fence. Skirt around crags,
sticking to higher turn left over a stile and
ground. Pass descend north through
another tarn and overgrown forest.
climb to Looking Cross a forestry road
Stead’s summit. and a footbridge and
Turn left and 4 climb ahead to
descend briefly to another forestry
rejoin the main road. Turn right
path. Ascend briefly before
steeply west and veering left on a

arrive at the cairn trod. Climb
marking the start steadily east,
of the High Level 3 crossing a series of
Route to Pillar Rock. stiles, and arrive
rocky terrain. back at the Scarth
3 NY184116 Turn right
and follow a narrow
Skirt right around a gully
and veer left to emerge at
Gap path. Turn left
and retrace your steps
trod, descending a scree the summit plateau to Buttermere.

Start at Gatesgarth Farm A couple of cafés are Plentiful campsites, n OS Explorer OL4 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
car park (NY194149), available in Buttermere hostels, B&Bs and hotels n OS Landranger 89 (1:50k) YOUR PHONE!
accessible by car or village, or for something in Buttermere, including n Harvey Ultramap XT40 LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
Stagecoach’s 77/77A more substantial try YHA Buttermere, The In association with
Lake District West (1:40k)
Honister Rambler bus The Fish Inn or The Bridge Inn and Syke Farm
(summer only). Bridge Inn. campsite.

MAGAZINE
Lake District 3
HIGH-LEVEL HORSESHOE
DIFFICULTY HARD
DISTANCE 17KM
TIME 5 HOURS
The view down
Ennerdale from TOTAL ASCENT 1151M
Moses’ Trod path. PEAK BAGGER STATS
WAINWRIGHTS 7
TRAIL 100s 1
STEVE GOODIER
Wainwright bagging round
How about bagging seven Wainwrights in one Lake District day?
Park up at this high starting point and we’ll show you how.
T
he car park at Honister Pass stands This is a stunning route into the heart of
at an altitude of 356m and makes a true Lakeland mountain country and the IS IT FOR ME?
great starting point for a high-level situations you find yourself in are awesome.
FITNESS Routine
Wainwright bagging round. However, this It’s hard to single out a solitary point and
Lakeland hillwalk, with
walk still involves a lot of ascent and takes list it as a ‘highlight’, but the scrambly walk
steep ups and downs
in some magnificent summits that give to the summit of Great Gable is hard to beat
awesome views throughout. and the top of this fell is magnificent. TECHNICALITY Rough
The initial climb up Grey Knotts (697m) Although not included in the route, it is mountain day with
is a fitting opening for what is to come, and also well worth making the short detour some exposure
the walk then works a high-level way around towards Wast Water from Great Gable’s top TERRAIN Mostly good
Brandreth (715m), Base Brown (646m), to take in the view from the Westmorland grass and stone paths
Green Gable (801m), Great Gable (899m), Cairn – this is surely one of the best sights over open high-level
Kirk Fell (802m) and Fleetwith Pike (648m). in all Lakeland. STEVE GOODIER hillside, the going is
fairly rough especially
on Great Gable
ke
e
NAVIGATION Mostly
Pi
ts
n
bl
l
ow
ab
h
ot
ith
Ga
et
Kn
l
tG
Br
l
dr
w
Fe
n
ish
simple route-finding
et
ee
ea
ey
se
an
t
rk
ar
Fin
Fle
Ba
Gr
Gr
Gr
Br
Ki
St
1400
1200
on clear paths, descent
1000 from Great Gable to
IN METRES
800
Beck Head needs to be
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 5 6
200 located carefully before
0
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
proceeding

HIGH-LEVEL HORSESHOE
then keep ahead at a path at path junction right

Great Gable and Windy junction and follow the (cairn). Continue to
Gap from Green Gable. path to descend and reach summit of Fleetwith Pike.
the Drum House remains
(NY215134). Go straight NY205141 With your
over a dismantled
6 back to the summit
tramway path, taking a cairn take a descending
path to a quarry track. Go path easterly (right of
left, continuing to reach a your ascent route), soon
small cairn right at swinging south-easterly.
NY214136. There are two Descend boggy ground
paths here to begin the and when a quarry and
anti-clockwise loop of quarry road come into
Fleetwith Pike – take the view, head for them to
TOM BAILEY
left of the two aiming descend over a stream

half-right to pass to the and climb up a bank.
right of spoil heaps. Stay Take the quarry road
ahead on a rising path to curve right and left
NY225135 With your posts. Continue to reach westerly from the summit aiming below rock around spoil heaps.
1 back to the youth a cross path by a cairn (taking some of the outcrops. Stay ahead Pick up your outbound
hostel, exit the car park right. Go left passing cairned paths near the route following it to
through a gate right tarns in the col. Take the summit will lead into very go right to the Drum
signposted ‘Footpath to rising path beyond. When difficult terrain). Once House Remains. Go
Grey Knotts’. Cross the the terrain gets rockier identified follow the left descending to
slate yard, then a stile. keep right of boulder path down to Beck Honister Pass
Take the path beyond, fields following the path Head. Follow the 6 and car park.
joining a fence right. to go left at a solitary path descending
Follow this until you can fence post to a cairn. Go between two tarns
cross a stile higher up. left on the dog-leg to to then take a
Continue on the Base Brown, descending rising path.
right-hand side of the a path north-easterly. Higher up continue
fence. Cut right with it, When this heads left westerly, following
shortly crossing a stile towards Gillercombe fence posts over Kirk
left. Continue forward to continue north-easterly Fell’s subsidiary summit.
small tarns. Follow the rising to the summit of Descend to cross a tarn at 1
path right, shortly cutting Base Brown. a narrow point. Take the
right and climbing to the rising path beyond to
cairn on Grey Knotts’ NY225114 Re-trace Kirk Fell’s summit.
summit. Descend the
3 your steps, heading
other side towards south-westerly to climb NY194104 Drop
Brandreth, taking a path up, re-joining the Green
5 easterly from the
curving right. Join a fence Gable path at NY215108. summit down a rocky
and head south-westerly. Go ahead (southerly) channel and head right
Descend over a col and climbing to Green Gable’s of the tarn taking a path
climb beyond by the fence, summit at NY214107. along the summit edge.
staying ahead when it Continue ahead Pick up a rough path and
bends right. Rise past descending to cross a descend to pass between
a solitary fence post. col. Climb the scrambly two tarns to rise up to the
Continue past a cairn and path beyond to follow path at Beck Head again.
large post and bear right cairns over broken Go left to curve half-right 2
towards fence posts and ground to Great Gable’s and then left to descend
cairns marking the summit. northerly, following
summit of Brandreth. Moses’ Trod path.
NY211103 Take care Cross over a
4 3
2 NY214119
Head southerly,
identifying the
descent path to Beck
stile in a
fence,
descending past fence Head – it heads north-
Green Gable
summit.

Pay and display car The Fish Inn and Bridge YHA Honiston Hause at n OS Explorer OL4 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
park at Honister Pass Inn are at Buttermere. the start of Honister Pass. n OS Landranger 89 (1:50k) YOUR PHONE!
(NY225135) between There are also several Campsites in Borrowdale n Harvey British Mountain LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
Seatoller (Borrowdale) pubs and cafés in and Buttermere. Pubs in In association with
Map Lake District (1:40k)
and Gatesgarth Farm Borrowdale with plenty Borrowdale and Buttermere
(Buttermere). more in Keswick. offer accommodation.

MAGAZINE
Outer Hebrides 4
CHALLENGING CIRCULAR WALK
DIFFICULTY HARD
DISTANCE 13.5KM
TIME 7-8 HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 1065M
PEAK BAGGER STATS
CORBETT 1
Looking east to
PETER EDWARDS
The Clisham Horseshoe An Cliseam from
Mulla bho Dheas.
Follow the ridge over troubled waters, and through some wild Isle of Harris
terrain, to the highest summit in the Outer Hebrides.
A
n Cliseam (Clisham) is generally Cliseam. There is some easy scrambling on
climbed as an up and down route from the ridge and tougher sections that are easily IS IT FOR ME?
a parking place along the A859 to the avoided. This is an enjoyable route for those
mountain’s south-east. This makes for a short, who are confident on rocky terrain with FITNESS
sharp climb of 650m over 3km that can be some exposure. It’s not a walk for beginners Good fitness and
recommended only for the views or for those – especially not in poor visibility. On a clear stamina needed
with limited time. By contrast, the Clisham day, a traverse of the ridge with An Cliseam TECHNICALITY A fairly
Horseshoe is a challenging circular walk ahead of you is a real Hebridean classic, with tough mountain day on
through some magnificently wild country. spectacular views included. demanding terrain
Approaching An Cliseam from the north- There is limited parking by the bridge over TERRAIN Rough and
west makes for a long walk in on an often the Abhainn Sgaladail or 500m up the road rocky ridges, potentially
boggy path that brings you to the foot of the towards Tarbert on the roadside verge at the very boggy approach
ridge linking Mullach an Langa, Mulla bho start of the Harris Walkway (NB187096). and return, some
Thuath, Mulla bho Dheas and finally An PETER EDWARDS bouldery sections
and exposed descent
a
th
s
ng
ea
ua
require caution, paths

La
Dh
Th
m
an
ea
bh
are intermittent and not

bh
ch
is
sh
la
la
la
Cl
t
ni
ar
ul
ul
ul
An
Fi
always obvious
St
1400
1200
NAVIGATION Sketchy
IN METRES
1000
800
paths through often
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 complex terrain
200
0 make navigational
KILOMETRES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
competence a must

4 Outer Hebrides MAGAZINE
CHALLENGING CIRCULAR WALK
head south-east down

Looking back along the ridge the ridge following the
to the Harris Hills from the clear path worn by those
summit of An Cliseam. climbing An Cliseam
directly from the A859.
Higher up the path is dry
as it winds its way
through rocky terrain,
but the going becomes
wetter further down.
Continue down the ridge
until easier ground is
reached, then turn left to
traverse north, then east
around the headwaters of
the Allt Tomnabhal. Skirt
beneath the prominent
rock slabs on the
south-eastern flank of
Tomnabhal, keeping to
NB182099 From the in clear conditions the avoided by following a although the bouldery the easier ground before
1 bridge pick up the sparkling white beaches path, leaving the summit ground can be avoided swinging north-east
often very boggy path of South Harris can be immediately before until just below the across rough terrain,
(marked on the OS seen to the south-west. reaching the cairn, summit. A small cairn making for three small
Explorer) heading up Descend southwards dropping down and then marks the northern end lochans (NB184083) lying
Gleann Sgaladail along along a path to the traversing along the of the summit ridge – directly west of Cleit Ard.
the north side of bealach, crossing a northern side of the ridge there are sublime views From the lochans,
Abhainnn Sgaladail. The distinctive quartz band – care is required as the back along the continue northwards
path is fairly distinct for then follow the ridge as it path is exposed and horseshoe. Continue to along the green track of
much of the way up to turns south-east to reach slippery. The path the summit (799m), the Harris Walkway,
Loch Mhisteam where it the cairned summit of regains the ridge at the where a trig point is which is boggy in places,
disappears definitively, Mulla bho Dheas (743m). bealach before the enclosed by a large to reach the main road
leaving you to pick a route subsidiary top of An shelter wall. after 1.5km. Continue
across rough ground to NB143076 The t-Isean. A path ascends downhill beside the road
gain the east ridge of
3 descent eastwards An t-Isean, bypassing NB155073 Once to reach the parking area
Mullach an Langa. The from Mulla bho Dheas some crags, then a long,
4 you’re done with by the Abhainn Sgaladail
ascent starts easily along the ridge line grassy descent delivers soaking up the views bridge.
enough but soon involves some fairly you to the foot of An (and hopefully not the
steepens over rough tricky scrambling. Clisham. The climb is weather) from the
vegetation, though the This can be steep, initially grassy highest point in the
ground becomes drier then rocky, Outer Hebrides,
underfoot. This is the
hardest section of the
2 1
entire horseshoe, but as
you gain height the view
north to Loch Langabhat
opens up to reward your
efforts. The gradient
eventually relents before
a final steep pull up
through a boulder field.
From the summit (614m),
marked by a small cairn,
you can survey the route
ahead, around the
horseshoe to An Cliseam.
NB143094 Continue
2 south along the
ridge with no difficulties

(a rocky section between
two crags is easier going 3 4
than it looks) to gain the
grassy ridge leading to
the summit of Mulla bho
Thuath (720m). The view
ahead onto Mulla bho
Dheas is magnificent and

Park by the bridge over The Harris Hotel and the Gatliff Trust hostel, n OS Explorer 456 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
the Abhainn Sgaladail Hotel Hebrides in Tarbert Rhenigidale. The n OS Landranger 14 (1:40k) YOUR PHONE!
(NB182099) on the A859. for drinks and bar food or Backpackers Hostel and LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
W10 bus from Tarbert/ restaurant. Lots of options Harris Hotel, Tarbert. In association with
Stornoway, get off at bridge in Stornoway. Horgabost Campsite. Lots
before/after Ardvourlie. of options in Stornoway.

MAGAZINE
Snowdonia 5
HIGH-LEVEL TRAVERSE
DIFFICULTY HARD
DISTANCE 21KM
Looking south from the TIME 7/8 HOURS
summit of Carnedd Llewelyn TOTAL ASCENT 1257M
with Carnedd Dafydd PEAK BAGGER STATS
dominating the scene. WELSH 3000S 6
TRAIL 100s 3
NICK LIVESEY
The Carneddau full traverse
Gird your loins for a stupendous peak-bagging spree on
Snowdonia’s most powerful mountain range.
I
t has long been said that the Carneddau this sprawling range of remote cwms and
are the ‘Cairngorms of Snowdonia’, ridges, but a good full day introduction to IS IT FOR ME?
but while they have much in common, its spacious summits can be had by taking
FITNESS A full day with
lovers of these neglected Welsh giants on one of many possible ‘full traverses’.
lots of ups and downs,
would consider any comparison an affront. This north/south option has a purity of line
so moderate to good
Aficionados will tell you there is nowhere which provides a wonderful aesthetic for
fitness required
quite like the Carneddau. mountain connoisseurs, while ‘heads down’
As the most extensive tract of land in TECHNICALITY Hands
baggers are well catered for with six of the
in pockets, save for a
Wales above 3000ft, the Carneddau attract highest peaks south of the border.
short Grade 1 descent
those who like to get high and stay there for Once back in the sublime Ogwen valley
off Pen yr Ole Wen
as long as possible. The scope for memorable you may ask yourself ‘was it just a dream?’
hillwalks is almost inexhaustible, the The Carneddau and their austere heights TERRAIN Broad grassy
permutations practically endless. Many will no doubt call you back to continue the ridges, rocky summits,
boggy ground on the
visits are required to really get to know enchantment. NICK LIVESEY
descent to Llyn Ogwen
NAVIGATION Paths
an
yn
lli
dd
el
en
en
ew
fy
can be vague and good

W
Da
Gw
Ll
h
e
ac
s
Ol
dd
dd
ra
dd
Gr
navigation skills are

yr
sh
e
e
-f
um
rn
rn
t
rn
el
el
ni
ar
Ca
Ca
Pe
Dr
Fo
Fo
Ca
Fi
St
1400 needed in poor visibility

1200
IN METRES
1000
800
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4
200
0
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20

5 Snowdonia MAGAZINE
HIGH-LEVEL TRAVERSE
Gazing at Carnedd Llewelyn across

Cwm Llafar from the edge of the
Black Ladders.
SH675716 From the before you get there! Fear w

1 car park go through not, for the ascents are C
the gate and turn left to modest. Your main o
follow a wide track which concern when leaving k
is part of the ‘North Wales Foel-fras will be a
Path’. After 2.4km an navigation in all but the ti
important crossroads is clearest conditions. r
met. Turn right and make Paths exist on the ground s
the steady climb up to but can be tangential as r
Drum, your first summit they seek out other minor lo
of the day. From here peaks on this vast r
you’ll look down on the plateau. Keep an eye on o
beautiful Anafon valley the map and make your w
and across to the humpy way to Carnedd b
ridge of Yr Orsedd, and Gwenllian (formerly L
wish you’d made it a part Carnedd Uchaf) before b
of your route. Come the moving onto Foel Grach, a
end of the day, however, where in foul weather a b 3
you’ll be thankful that you handy stone-built hut w
spared your legs the extra provides welcome shelter s
ascent. Save it for a short from the elements. From o
summer evening’s stroll! Foel Grach one final r
heave puts Carnedd to
SH708695 The Llewelyn beneath your r
2 ascent of Foel-fras boots where the view te
couldn’t be simpler (just south (if you’re lucky v
follow the fence/wall), enough to see it) is if
but does require a ‘grin absolutely breathtaking d
and bear it’ slog which is in its grandeur. S
best tackled by just le
cracking on. Once you’ve SH683643 From
attained its 942m summit
3 the summit the
you’ll get some idea of path starts roughly
what you’ve let yourself in southwards (in clag it’s
for; Carnedd Llewelyn important to get this right
looks a considerable way or you’ll end up a long
away and there are two way from where you need
3000ft peaks to cross to be!) and meanders its
On the descent of Carnedd Lloer to a stile and then

Dafydd – Pen yr Ole Wen awaits. make your way down
boggy ground using
marker posts where the
way becomes vague.

Cross the stream where
convenient and head for
Tal y Llyn Ogwen farm,
where a footbridge gives
access to the northern
shore of Llyn Ogwen and
a scenic finale to what
has been quite a day!

Leave the A55 at junction Tyn y Coed Hotel Capel The Rocks Hostel Capel n OS Explorer OL17 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
13. Follow signs for Aber Curig, Moel Siabod café Curig, Gwern Gof Isaf n OS Landranger 115 (1:50k) YOUR PHONE!
Falls. Cross the stone Capel Curig. campsite Ogwen Valley. n Harvey British Mountain LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
bridge and follow road to Map Snowdonia North In association with
its end. Two cars or taxi (1:40k)
required to return to start.

MAGAZINE
Lake District 6
SEA TO SUMMIT
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 19KM
TIME 6.5 HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 680M
PEAK BAGGER STATS
TRAIL 100s 1
ANGE HARKER
Sea views open out
Black Combe gradually to reward

your ascent.
Can’t decide between coast and fell? Head to south-west Cumbria

and make the most of both worlds!
B
lack Combe should be famous for However, located between Barrow-in-
all sorts of reasons. It’s a Trail 100, Furness, Sellafield and the central fells, it’s IS IT FOR ME?
for starters: perhaps Wainwright also a necessary reminder that the Cumbrian FITNESS Reasonable
was misguided in relegating it to an Outlying coast is a working environment and not just a fitness required, full day
Fell, despite claiming he could climb it in his far-flung edgeland. walk with ascent, beach
slippers. Wordsworth, on the other hand, The arrival of the England Coast Path will can be tough going
was suitably impressed, referring to ‘the line put this route on the world’s longest managed
TECHNICALITY Fairly
of Erin’s coast’ beyond the Isle of Man in coastal footpath, but until the miles of new
easy hill terrain, no
his poem View from the top of Black Comb. clifftop walking open in the coming months,
technicalities
Indeed it has one of the few unimpeded the wild, isolated beach is no less superior.
felltop views of the Irish Sea, with Scotland Either way, Black Combe is the only 600m TERRAIN Stony and
and Wales breaking through on the clearest peak sea-to-summit daywalk in England and grassy paths on rounded
days too, and creating a prime summer bivvy deserves to be celebrated. Pick a good day, hillside, some boggy
spot as lights twinkle on distant shores. and see for yourself. ANGE HARKER areas, sand and shingle
beach. Check tide times
– avoid 9-10m high tides
be
e
m
g
ta
or storms
Co
ft
ot
ro
sh
k
lC
c
t
ac
ni
le
ar
l
Bl
Fe
Si
Fi
St
1400 NAVIGATION Fairly

1200
straightforward,
IN METRES
1000
800
well-used paths, but
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 5 6 compass useful on
200
0 summit in bad visibility
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

SEA TO SUMMIT
SD120811 From the

1 beach car park There are expansive
views inland from the
entrance, head back
lofty summit dom.
inland to Silecroft village
and the A5093, then turn
left a short distance and
look for a waymarked
gate by a pylon across the
road. Aim for a small gate
on the far side of the field
and go left up the lane,
crossing the main A595
road to enter fields. Head
for the far right corners
of two fields, then turn without peering over the left through a farm to a Turn left here all the way to the train station). The
left on an enclosed lane edge of the ‘Black Combe’ T-junction. Turn right, back to Silecroft beach shingle can be tough
to the point where it itself, on the right – an keeping straight ahead car park (and left at the going, so allow plenty of
opens out. unexpectedly dramatic at further junctions, end if you need to return time for this section, but
bite out of the rounded to the final gate above it is really worth it!
SD131828 Head hillside. Now follow the the beach.
2 uphill on the left split for just under
right-hand bridleway and 3km, swinging left at the SD098846 When
6
through a boundary gate bottom to the boundary the England Coast 4
onto open fellside. The fence. Path opens (check the
path is obvious as it interactive map on
climbs Moor Gill before SD120876 Stay on nationaltrail.co.uk), you’ll
traversing the pudding
4 the bridleway for be able to turn left here
bowl slopes of Black another 3km along the along the cliff tops and
Combe with ever boundary, crossing two follow waymarks back
expanding sea views. streams and keeping to to your starting point.
Stay on it as it swings the top path where the But until it is fully
notably round to the right wall falls away. On 9-10m waymarked and declared
after about 2.3km (where tides, or if it’s a stormy open – or if you’re a fan
views to the north open forecast at high tide of wild, remote beaches,
out in good weather), and (there’s no escape for regardless – drop
then left again after a 4km), you can carry on to straight down to the
shallow col, accompanied Silecroft from here on beach.
by a series of small rights of way. Otherwise,
pathside cairns. Shortly after the path has 3
afterwards, the path rejoined the wall,
splits. Take the well-used look for a gate on the
5
branch to the right, right after 100m.
straight up to the 6
summit shelter. SD116847 Drop
5 to a smaller gate a
SD135854 From few metres below, then
3 the summit, head between buildings onto
north-east about 300m a lane. Follow this lane
on another walked line, across the A595 (with
looking for an initially care – fast road, blind
faint split to the left after bend) and a level
the slope levels – but not crossing. The lane bears
You’re likely to have the beach 2

entirely to yourself between
Gutterby and Silecroft.

Start from the beach Silecroft Beach café (far Miners Arms, plus Boots n OS Explorer OL6 (1:25k)
GET IT ON
car park, Silecroft end of car park) is open & Boards B&B/self- n OS Landranger 96 (1:50k) YOUR PHONE!
(SD120811). Trains from most days. The Miners catering, both in Silecroft. n Harvey Outdoor Atlas LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
Barrow, Lancaster and Arms near the railway Harbour Lights Campsite In association with
Lake District (1:40k)
Carlisle stop at Silecroft station is open weekend is open year-round in
station, on the route. afternoons. nearby Haverigg.

MAGAZINE
Snowdonia
ULTIMATE WEEKEND ▲ 3 ROUTES
Views of Arenig Fawr from
near Moel Llyfnant.
JAMES FORREST
ROUTE 7
The Arenigs Arenig Fach
ROUTE 8
Arenig Fawr
Eager to avoid the crowds of Snowdonia’s hotspots? Head to the ROUTE 9

Rhobell Fawr & Dduallt
seldom-visited Arenigs for a weekend of wild, rugged hillwalking.
T
he Arenigs are a disparate of Arenig Fawr, the loftier of the two
mountain range in Snowdonia, Arenig brothers, before returning to your
to the north and west of Bala. car and chosen accommodation, while
Dominated by the twin peaks of Arenig day three involves ascending the extinct
Fawr and Arenig Fach, the Arenigs are a volcano of Rhobell Fawr and its remote
mix of grassy hills, vast bogs and sudden neighbour, Dduallt. JAMES FORREST
rocky terrain. They feel quiet and wild –
and that is their appeal. Arenig Fawr
bothy.
This ultimate weekender starts with
an ascent of pudding-shaped Arenig
Fach from the shores of Llyn Celyn,
before heading to Llyn Arenig Fawr
for a night in the tiny and charming
Arenig Fawr bothy. Day two is a climb

n OS Explorer OL18 and
GET IT ON
It’s simple by car, but Plas Yn Dre is a good This trip includes a bothy
public transport is tricky. pub in Bala and Manon’s stay, but for accommodation OL23 (1:25k) YOUR PHONE!
The best option is to take Riverside café at the try Tyn Cornel Camping in n OS Landranger 124 and LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
the train to Wrexham and National White Water Frongoch or Torrent Walk 125 (1:50k) In association with
then TrawsCymru’s T3 Centre, Frongoch, is Campsite and Bunkhouse n Harvey BMM Snowdonia
bus to Bala. ideal for light bites. near Dolgellau. North and South (1:40k)

WILD & CHALLENGING
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 11.8KM
TIME 4 HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 612M
PEAK BAGGER STATS
TRAIL 100s 1
3
Arenig Fach 2
SH845403 From the fence posts,
1 car park, which has and head north
a toilet block, head to the over pathless,
A4212 and turn left heathery slopes
briefly. Turn right and towards Llyn
take a wide track heading Arenig Fach. Arenig Fawr
north past the houses at Follow the eastern 1 bothy.
Craig-y-ronw. Continue shoreline of the
on the track, veering waters over rather 4
north-west and arrive at rough ground, picking
the yard at Maes-y-tail. the best line you can find. slopes
Go through a gate and Cross a stream, pass towards the
head north-west along next to a small wall and hump of Y Foel
a wall. Pass through cross a stile over the before striking
another gate to ford a fenceline towards the off left, aiming
stream and pick up a northern tip of the tarn. north-east
track ascending gently Follow the zigzagging over pathless
north and then west. Go fence, bearing north- and rather
through another gate and west on a path to its right. rough terrain.
arrive at open fellside. As the fence swings left, Cross a fence at a
Head west-north-west follow it to ascend the ladder stile and aim
on a farm track. At north ridge steeply. east along a line of old
SH836411 turn left on Before the fence fence posts to arrive back
a narrow trod aiming terminates in crags, veer at the small crag visited
towards a sheep fold. slightly right away from it during the ascent. Follow
Arrive at a line of old and follow a narrow trod the line of old fence
wooden fence posts and picking its way up over posts, descending gently
follow these west to rocky terrain. Emerge east. Just before a sheep
emerge at SH830411, onto flatter ground and pen veer left on a trod
next to some small but bear left to cross a stile and pick up the track SH841401
prominent crags. It’s over a fence before leading through gates
4 Turn right
here you’ll rejoin the ascending west to the back to the yard at along the main
outward route on the summit, which has a trig Maes-y-tail. Veer right to road, sticking to the
return leg. pillar and large shelter. head south on the public wide grass verge, and Afon Tryweryn at a
footpath, which is head south-west. At a grassy bridge. Beyond
SH830411 Veer SH820415 Head overgrown and unclear in fingerpost sign, turn left the bridge’s gate, head
2 right, away from the
3 south to a cairned place, past numerous through a metal gate. south on a good path
top and pick up a narrow, walls and underneath Turn immediately right following yellow arrow
faint path descending electricity pylons to and, at a wider track, waymarks. Turn right on
IS IT FOR ME? south-south-east.
Continue over heathery
emerge at the main road
beyond a gate.
turn left. Pass a small
outbuilding and cross the
a grassy path heading
south-west and go
through a metal gate.
FITNESS Not
Continue under pylons,
excessively long The summit of
following the waymarks,
or high, but good Arenig Fach.
and arrive at the minor
fitness is still needed road at a gate. Turn left
for this deceptively and take the road for 1km
past a few houses. Turn
tough walk sharply right and head
TECHNICALITY A south-west and then
challenging mountain south-east on a wide,

grassy track, which runs
walk, often over wild, to the east of Llyn Arenig
pathless ground Fawr. Go through a gap
TERRAIN Pathless in a wall and descend
briefly to the small
sections over
bothy next to the
heathery and rocky reservoir dam.
terrain; plus some
r
w
good paths and road

a
sh g F
c h
i
Fa
Fi ren
walking
Du
Du
ig
A
en
n
n
t
yn
ni
ar
y
Br
Br
Ar
Ll
NAVIGATION
St
1400
1200
Excellent navigation
IN METRES
1000
800
skills required due
HEIGHT
600
to the lack of paths in 400 1 2 3 4
200
places 0
KILOMETRES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

MAGAZINE
Snowdonia 8
RUGGED MOUNTAIN
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 12KM
TIME 4 HOURS
Arenig Fawr TOTAL ASCENT 557M
SH850379 Cross the SH819354 Turn

1
ladder stile to the
3 right on a wide
right of the bothy and pick grassy track and go
up the path heading through a gap in a
south-west. Cross the drystone wall. Descend
reservoir outflow at a gently north on the track,
plank conveniently crossing a couple of
placed across the stream small streams. Cross a
and begin to ascend ladder stile next to Nant y
south-west towards Psygod stream and a
Carreg Lefain. The good ruined building. Continue
path is clear underfoot. north on the track, above
Follow it as it veers west the forest to the left, and
to Y Castell. Continue arrive at the ruins at
ascending west and then Amnodd-wen. Take the
north-west, crossing a track, still bearing north,
couple of fences as you past a number of further
go, and arrive a
of Bwlch Blaen
the west of a 68
height. Take the Looking over to the ed telephone
traversing path summit of Arenig tinue east on
ascends south- Fawr. and, just before
the left of highe house, turn left
The terrain is r a gate. Cross the
and rugged, bu ay line, go under
technical or exp y pylons and
Follow the path th across fields.
way to the trig p e yellow
war memorial p ks to re-trace
the summit of A 4 ps back towards
Fawr. road. Cross the
ridge and arrive
SH827369 212 beyond a
2
Descend s right and
the col before A th-east on
Fawr’s south to grassy verge
Cross a fence a he car park.
ladder stile and
on the left of th
fence to the cai
subsidiary sum
Ahead the fenc
1
provides an exc
handrail, espec
in poor conditio
FOR ME?
the descent. Fo SS Decent
the fence south
ain fitness
south-west, pa
couple of small 2 ed, but this
a 712m subsidi erly strenuous
and then cross
ICALITY
to pick up a bet
its right-hand s hnical
fence swings so bling, but
SH824359, vee s some steep

away from it on ing and
path descendin
south-west. Cr ding
old drystone wa 3 AIN Generally
descend right t ell paths, with
the col between
Fawr and Moel nd steep
in places;
me road
walking
t
Ca
i
ar
n
Am
Ar
Fi
St
1400
1200
NAVIGATION Clear
IN METRES
1000 hill lines and fences

800
HEIGHT
600 to follow, but good

400 1 2 3 4
200
navigation still
0 required
KILOMETRES 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

MOUNTAIN HORSESHOE
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 19.3KM
TIME 6 HOURS
TOTAL ASCENT 944M Rhobell Fawr & Dduallt
SH756225 Turn right
1 out of the car park,
walk past the school and
turn right again at a
fingerpost sign to take a
©INSTAGRAM @GREYFOXHIKING
bridleway leading uphill
away from the village.
Go through a gate and
continue on a green lane,
with a fence to the left
and a mossy stone wall
to the right, heading Views over Coed y
north-east and east. Brenin forest to the
Pass below a house and distant Rhinogs.
at a path junction, cross
the house’s driveway and
fork left. Go through a passing to the right of a descent cross a stream from the fence and take 5
gate and head north-east 591m spot height at and arrive at a forest the wild, rugged south
and north through forest. Ffynnon Shon and beyond track beyond a gate. ridge to the summit of
Pass through a couple of towards the summit of Dduallt, which feels
gates and ford a stream Rhobell Fawr. At the SH798255 Turn left very remote.
before reaching a 700m contour line, the
4 along the track
junction at SH764233. wall veers north and briefly before turning
Veer right through a gate arrives at the summit’s right at a wooden
and head north-east to large cairn. fingerpost sign, marked
reach a wider track Y Dduallt. Head
entering from the right. SH786256 Descend north-east on a path
This point is marked by
3 north-east briefly through the 3 4
a metal fingerpost sign. and cross a wall at a
ladder stile. Ahead
SH766235 Head the path is very
2 north on the wide indistinct, so track. Head
track, passing through instead bear south and,
another gate and arriving east to reach just beyond
at Bwlch Goriwared. Just another ladder spoil heaps
beyond some impressive stile over a and shafts,
stone sheep pens, turn wall. Cross turn right at a
right over a ladder stile it and turn fingerpost sign.
to cross a wall. Using the immediately Head uphill on a faint
wall snaking up the left, in grassy path. Cross a
fellside as a handrail, order to ladder stile and descend
follow the wall north- avoid 2 south-west through
east sticking to its the gorse, following
left-hand side. The intermittent yellow-
ascent is relatively easy, topped marker poles.
Continue south-west and
1 5 SH810273 then west to pass to the
IS IT FOR ME? Re-trace
your steps down
left of the house at
Cae-heuad. Pick up a
FITNESS A long Dduallt and through the track and turn right briefly
and demanding forest back to the forest to shortcut a large
road. Turn left and head switchback. Continue
mountain walk
forest, south on the wide track. At west past more buildings,
TECHNICALITY crags crossing a a junction, fork right and veer north on the minor
No technical ahead. At a wall corner, few streams. At the next contour south-west and road, and after a cattle
turn right and descend fingerpost sign, turn west around the hillside. grid turn sharply left.
scrambling, but
along the wall heading sharply right and head Beyond a series of gates Head south-west, turn
the descent of east over rocky, rugged south-east to reach a and streams, veer right on a track heading
Rhobell Fawr is terrain. The descent is stile over a fence. Cross south-west to sheep folds. north-west across the
steep and rocky steep and involves a few it, leaving the forest, and Here the path veers Afon Babi to Cae glas,
tricky manoeuvres, but follow the fence marking sharply left, next to head west to Cae-crwth
TERRAIN Generally is never technical or the edge of the forest woodland. Ignore a following waymarkers,
excellent bridleways particularly exposed. bearing east and then turn-off to the left and and re-pick up the grassy
and fell paths, Towards the end of the north. Next veer away continue on the wide lane back to the village.
r
with some rough,

w
Fa
ed
ll
ar
lt
pathless sections
be
sh
Go ch
al
riw
t
u
o
l
ni
ar
Bw
Rh
Dd
Fi
St
NAVIGATION Good 1400

1200
navigation skills
IN METRES
1000
800
HEIGHT
required to cope with 600

400 1 2 3 4 5
remote, pathless 200
sections 0
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

MAGAZINE
Galloway
ULTIMATE WEEKEND ▲ 3 ROUTES
Descending towards
Merrick from
Kirriereoch Hill.
RONALD TURNBULL
ROUTE 10
Galloway’s Corbetts Corserine
ROUTE 11
Cairnsmore of Carsphairn
Spend a weekend in a wild corner of south-west Scotland ROUTE 12

The Awful Hand
and you can bag a handful of two-and-a-halfers.
I
n the 1920s, J Rooke Corbett listed certainly applies to Galloway. Cairnsmore
Scotland’s hills over 2500ft (762m) that and Corserine are moderate one-hill
were still not the height of the mighty outings. But the walk over the two summits
Munros. Chasing Corbetts takes you to of the Awful Hand will seriously loosen
interesting places you might not otherwise up your legs for the long days of summer
have thought of. One such being Galloway, ahead. Grab all four of them over a three-
which has four of these tickable hills in a day weekend. RONALD TURNBULL
wild corner of south-west Scotland where Carsphairn village.
the rocks are granite and most of the other
hillwalkers are goats.
Corbett-height hills tend to be tougher
than their taller Munro cousins. The
vegetation is more clingy and lush, the
paths are smaller or not there at all. This

n OS Explorer 318 and 328
GET IT ON
Corserine and Cairnsmore Carsphairn Tearoom Galloway Activity Centre’s
are climbed from the (evening meals now and bunkhouse in the (1:25k) YOUR PHONE!
Glenkens, which has a bus then), Clachan Inn in St Glenkens. And see n OS Landranger 77 (1:50k) LFTO.COM/TRAILROUTES
service. The Awful Hand is John’s Town of Dalry, southernuplandway. n Harvey Superwalker XT25 In association with
only reached by car, from House o’ Hill Hotel gov.uk for walker-friendly Galloway Hills (1:25k)
Glentrool–Straiton road. Glentrool village. accommodation

10 Galloway MAGAZINE
FOREST & ROCKY CORRIE
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 14.5KM
TIME 5½ HOURS Descending North Gairy
TOTAL ASCENT 700M Top towards Loch Harrow.
CORBETTS 1
Corserine
NX552862 The start the trees to a leat
1 is a designated (artificial stream) and
walkers’ car park near follow it to the left back to
Forrest Lodge. Just north the loch shore. Cross the
of the car park, cross a leat’s outflow and another
bridge to visit the Black leat just beyond, then turn
Watch highlander (former back right on a track. You small rocky outcrops. slight dip to Corserine’s down between the trees.
ship’s figurehead) Return pass a hydro-power hut One outcrop to right of the summit trig point
5 7
1
6
across the loch s where the gravelled tip at North Gairy Top. 400m after that junction
outflow to its northern track bends right.
corner. Follow traces of
4 NX508877 Return
south along the NX511864 Descend
you can turn left on a
track marked as Caroline
an old track ahead under
6
3 NX525874 Here
keep ahead on a
shoulder, and head
south-west up the spur
east on a slight
spurline down steep
Currie Road. This fords
the small Lumford Burn,
rough old track, soon with of Corserine. You pass ground, then north-east then stays to left of
IS IT FOR ME? another leat on its right. It
bends across the leat by a
a large shelter cairn
(Hennessey’s Shelter) just
between outcrops, to a
saddle before a minor rise
Polharrow Burn, before
bending right across it
FITNESS culvert to reach the edge before arriving on the flat called Craigbrock. Turn and rejoining the outward
of plantations. Now a faint summit plateau. A faint down left, joining the edge route near Fore Bush
A moderate day walk
path heads directly uphill, path leads south-west, of plantations. Just before house. Turn left to retrace
TECHNICALITY weaving between some then west through a very Folk Burn, there’s a gap steps to the walk start.
Rough mountain
ground between North Gairy Top, looking
rocky outcrops with back to Corserine.
some scrambling
possibilities if
desired
TERRAIN Forest
tracks, very small hill
paths, grassy ridges
and gentle plateau
summit
NAVIGATION Paths
iry
p
To
Ga
are easily lose-able,

iry
dy
e
e
in
Ga
rin
ad
er
but the hill ridges

sh
th
g
rs
t
ai
ni
ar
or
l
Co
Po
Cr
Fi
St
are well defined; 1400

1200
from North Gairy
IN METRES
1000
800
top in mist, compass
HEIGHT
600
bearings will be 400 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
200
needed 0
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14

MAGAZINE
Galloway 11
ROCKY PLATEAU
DIFFICULTY MEDIUM
DISTANCE 13.5KM
Merrick and TIME 5½ HOURS
Kirriereoch Hill. TOTAL ASCENT 750M
Cairnsmore of Carsphairn
NX557944 The
1 is beside the A 3
immediately south
bridge over Water o
Deugh, parking on a
stretch of disused
roadway. Cross the
road onto the track
2
leading past Bridge
4
Farm. Ignore a wide
track on the right, a
follow the smaller,
track ahead, north-
A muddy pool below
track, Green Well o
Scotland, was once 5
sacred spring used
baptisms. The track
passes alongside W
of Deugh, then slan
the slopes of Williea
and Dunool.
NX578971 At t
2 track end, foll
a small path with a
on its left. After a so
level section the pa
and wall dip to a 1
footbridge over Pol Cairnsmore of Carsphairn and Water of
Burn, then run up th Deugh from Green Well of Scotland.
slopes of Cairnsmo
Carsphairn to the tr
point and large, anc
cairn at its summit.
g g g g TECHNICALITY
3 NX594979 Head
south-south-east
only a little height, to
arrive on the near-level
Comfortable grassy
along the stony plateau, Black Shoulder. The fence slopes, with a rough
with craggy drops on your met earlier in the walk approach to Black
left, to reach a fence arrives here from up on Shoulder and then a
corner. (If short of time, the right, and turns to a steep initial descent
you can shortcut by wall as it descends to the
TERRAIN Track and
er
ry
small path, pathless

rn f
ai e o
ld
ai
rG
ou
ph or
a
nn
Sh
rs sm
ne
plateau, some rough

l
ea
oo
sh
n
k
Ca irn
t
ni
i
ac
ill
ni
ar
Du
Be
Ca
Bl
Fi
grassland with no
St
1400
1200
path
IN METRES
1000
800
NAVIGATION Guiding
HEIGHT
600
400 1 2 3 4 5 walls and fences for
200
0 most of the route
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12

12 Galloway MAGAZINE
BIG MOUNTAIN RIDGE
DIFFICULTY HARD
DISTANCE 21.5KM
TIME 8½ HOURS Little Spear ridge
TOTAL ASCENT 1100M to Merrick.
CORBETTS 2
TRAIL 100s 1
The Awful Hand

NX3588
1 is a picn
bridge over W
Minnoch on th 3
towards Kirri
Continue eas
the track. Wh
the older trac
right leads to
Kirriereoch L
rejoins the m
Before reach
Kirriereoch h 4
right. In 300m
turning on the
return route) 2
another 500m
turning on the
another 1.2km
crosses Pillow
runs uphill to
junction. 5
NX3788
2 Turn lef 1
north, for 1km
then bear righ
an older and 7
smaller track
200m this end
on ahead alon 6
to reach Knoc
IS IT FOR
FITNESS A
y p g p
hillwalk that’s a slope of the hill. Turn level plateau, head south below Little Spear, the
7 north-west past
useful fitness builder south, heading down to a large shelter cairn, northern outlier of another cairn to the top of
for the summer along the top of the steep with great views of Merrick. Head straight up plantations, with a wide
drops, to cross the saddle Merrick, which is Little Spear, which is less tree gap leading directly
TECHNICALITY Nick of Carclach and 100m south-west steep than it looks from downhill to the corner of a
The ascent onto cross the flat summit of the true summit. below. From its summit forest track. Follow this
Kirriereoch Hill ridge of Tarfessock to an airy ridgeline leads downhill. After 1.2km,
the cairn at its far end. NX420869 From straight up to Merrick’s turn right over Kirriemore
is grassy but 5the large shelter trig point. Burn. Just after the
seriously steep
NX409891 Turn cairn head up to the true bridge keep left, on a
4 down south-east. summit (which has a very NX427855 Head track which after 1km
TERRAIN Grassy 6
slopes and ridges, After a short descent, you small cairn) and then down south-west. rejoins the track of the
find the wide, level ridge south-east, down a wide, After the first drop keep outward route. Turn left,
pleasant on the
continuing to the base of grassy slope. Keep down to right of the wide path back to the walk start.
higher slopes but
rough below 500m
ch
no
in
ll
level; fast forest

Hi
ll
M
Hi
e
on
or
ch
oc
ch
tracks at start and

m
ro
k
ss
ric
ie
lo
sh
ie
fe
rr
t
al
rr
er
ni
ar
Ke
Sh
Ta
end of the walk

Ki
Fi
M
St
1400
1200
NAVIGATION Mostly
IN METRES
1000
800
pathless, in low cloud
HEIGHT
600
the ridge proves 400 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
200
tricky to navigate 0
KILOMETRES 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 21

WALKS OF A LIFETIME
Looking across Wast Water
to the Scafell range, with
Scafell Pike in the centre and
its smaller neighbour Sca Fell
more prominent to the right.
No. 71/72 on the
00
THE SCAFELLS The UK’s ultimate
mountain bucket list
lfto.com/trail100
LAKE DISTRICT
This grand tour of England’s two highest mountains starts
and finishes on the remote shore of its deepest lake.
WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY ILLUSTRATION STEVE HALL
T
he highest point in England, Scafell the mountain and see your own reflected back.
Pike, is a worthy prize. Combine it with Wasdale Head is a pain in the bum to get
its twin, Sca Fell, via adventurous and to, but what a drive down the length of Wast
little travelled routes and you have a Lakeland Water. The view towards Great Gable, Kirk
classic. Sod it, you have a British classic. Fell and Yewbarrow, well that’s good enough
There should never be any excuses, you to be incorporated in a logo. Oh, I forgot, it is –
should know ‘our’ main peaks from many the Lake District National Park’s logo.
perspectives. It’s easy to be complacent about Park in the generous village green car park
the key mountains. Ben Nevis, Snowdon (map point 1, NY187085) where there is an
and Scafell Pike are peaks that over your honesty box. From this collection of fields and
hillwalking lifetime should become old friends, cottages the mountains rise on three sides,
with every facet of their personality, both good claustrophobically some might say. Once your
and bad, linked to personal memories. This kit has been checked and your pack is comfy,
is a chance to get under the skin of England’s follow the distinct track in a north-easterly
crowning glory. To look deeply into the face of direction. Soon you’ll come to St. Olaf’s 

Piers Gill is a famous accident
blackspot and the scene of many
Mountain Rescue callouts. Stick
to the path that follows its eastern
edge Ð do not go in it!
LAKE DISTRICT
church. Over 1000 years old and over-egg this geological feature – a huge, But I digress, there is enough to do today
with Norse origins, it nestles amongst deep, right-angled gorge, sat under the for most of us. The path to the summit
yew trees, closed in twice, by both impossibly steep crags of Lingmell. The takes a dramatic swing up to the south,
them and the mountains. It’s worth a path climbs, dramatically close to the climbing Scafell Pike proper. Things really
few minutes of your time to explore. edge of the chasm. Once I heard the shrill, start to change. Height is gained, along
Inside, etched onto one of the short but powerful voice of a wren’s song with expansive views. At a point where
window panes, is a picture of Napes emanate from the depths of the ravine. the path jinks violently to the south-west,
Needle, one of the first routes ever to From that pair of tiny lungs its song was notice that you’re on a long band of
be intentionally rock climbed. The amplified by the rock walls around it, prominent rock. This makes a convenient
farm is soon passed, and you’ll be making the tune mountainous. The path stairway. It is also the source material
following Lingmell Beck as it arcs around also passes over the wonderfully named for the neolithic stone axes that were
to the east. Coincidentally Napes Needle Middlefoot Knotts. famously quarried from the Lakeland
will be directly above you on Great Gable It’s above this area that the Piers Gill fells. It’s a volcanic ‘tuff’ that stretches
to the north, it’s tricky to pick out from path meets the main Corridor Route, as for 19km through the area, and it appears
this angle but you’ll get some idea of I’m sure you’ll know; a popular route to to have been the places where it was near
the dramatic location. If you ever have Scafell Pike. Looking back down Piers to the surface and high in the mountains
the chance to get to it on the climber’s Gill from map point 3 (NY214079) is a where it was most enthusiastically
traverse, it is a great place to see our sight to behold. Lingmell Crags are in full quarried. The Langdale Pikes are famous
two mountains from. view, smoking hot. You’re surrounded by for their ‘axe factory’ – search it up. The
After fording Spouthead Gill, a junction so much rock now, enjoy it, we’re about path climbs now over much loose rock,
in the paths is reached that is important to elevate ourselves to the lofty heights of and you’ll be amongst the crowds. Enjoy
to us (map point 2, NY214091). We’ll Scafell Pike. The route climbs up to the them, ignore them, you won’t have them
turn to the right, pulling up the fell, still col between Lingmell and the ‘Pike’ at much past the summit. And it’s to the
keeping the main Lingmell Beck on our map point 4 (NY211077). If you think summit we go.
right. There are several streams to ford on today’s route is a little on the short side, At map point 5 (NY215072) you’re
this route, so pick a time when the rivers then I highly recommend a little extra on top of England! I hope your arms are
shouldn’t be in spate. We’re heading up by in the way of Lingmell as an out-and- outstretched, you’re facing the sun, chest
the side of (and this is a very important back. If you stay close to the crags on puffed out, feeling like you could take
fact) Piers Gill. Do not go into it. I can’t your right, Piers Gill looks even better. on the world. Make the most of it. Once

WALKS OF A LIFETIME
“LORD’S
RAKE IS A
SLASHINGLY
EPIC WAY UP
SCA FELL.
THE PATH
PITCHES
AND YAWS
LIKE A
ROLLER
COASTER”
you’ve got your summit pic, escape the a slashingly epic way up Sca Fell. Leaving the summit of Sca Fell
crowds by heading over to a detour that’s Until a few years ago, a dangerous requires the old grey matter to be
not on the accompanying map. Let’s looking block was balanced at the top pressed into action. We’re heading
keep this one a little secret between you of the gully, daring any who looked that generally westwards, where the
and me – the fewer people that know way. Several times I clambered around path is thin at times over initially
about this, the better. If you want great, it, or under it, I can’t remember which, rocky terrain and consequently
plunging views over Lakeland without but imagine my surprise when it finally hard to follow. In mist I’ve used
the hordes that the summit of Scafell did fall. After years of being warned it a compass to navigate this slope.
Pike produces, then head to the south- wasn’t a safe way up, guess what – it Easy-going once below the high
east corner of the summit plateau. Here turned out it wasn’t. It’s gone now, so rock, work your way towards
you’ll find a spot worthy of the very best you only have all of the other dangers Fence wood. Hollow Gill would
mountain lunches. I’m not going to linger of the mountains to worry about. Lord’s be a convenient handrail if needed.
over the summit of ‘the Pike’ – I’m sure Rake is worthy of its namesake. Once I actually really like this flank of
you’ve been there before. Have your fill, you are at the top of the tight gully, the mountain. Many an afternoon
then we head south-west for Mickledore. the path pitches and yaws with a roller I’ve descended into the valley after
The path from the summit to coaster mentality, diagonally rising up a challenging day in the hills,
Mickledore is less used these days, with the north face of Sca Fell. warmed by the afterglow of physical
the Corridor path being so easy and It eventually pops out onto the broad, exercise and the thought of a pint
motorway-like. It leads to a stretcher unflatteringly large buttocks of our or two in the Wasdale Head Inn.
box at the col (map point 6, NY210069). second peak at map point 8 (NY205068). Once you’ve found the nick in the two
You stand at the door of Mickle. Do not A south-east bearing from this point will woods at map point 10 (NY184067) the
attempt to climb Sca Fell from this point, take you up onto the summit ridge, a mountains are pretty much done with.
we’re going down, before we come back turn to the south-south-west will need to An easily followable track leads past the
up. Head down the loose, wide, scree be made before the last 300m to the true National Trust campsite at this eastern
gully to the north-west. Looking to your summit (map point 9, NY207065), where end of Wastwater, then on over the river
west, you should shortly see a narrow a cairn and rock shelter mark the spot. (the road may be a better option if there
gully, filled with scree (map point 7, Views north-east towards ‘the Pike’ take is much in the way of rainwater), back to
NY208069). It’s up this we’re going, in something of its situation amongst the overgrown hamlet of Wasdale Head.
for it is the start of Lord’s Rake, Bowfell, Esk Pike and the like. What a fab day. T

12km DISTANCE
1167m ASCENT
7/8hrs ON THE HILL
THE SCAFELLS
ROUTE MAP
GR BR
EA OA
TE D CR
ND AG
91 93
PENRITH 0m 4m
KENDAL
m
899 LIN
E
BL GM
AT
GA EL
L8 3
GR
E
Make sure you stay
07
m 4
above Piers Gill –
STY HEAD do not go into it! If you have time,
WHERE DO I START? bag the summit
The route starts and finishes G ILL of Lingmell too
in the public car park at grid ref
I E RS
LAKE DISTRICT
NY187085 near Wasdale Head. P FLASS LINGMELL

Wasdale is one of the hardest 2 KNOTTS
Lakeland valleys to each by car, CRAG
but well worth the long drive.
Try to pick out
WHAT’S THE TERRAIN LIKE? Napes Needle
You get a real mixture of above you
mountain conditions with
this walk, including valley path,
stepped path, river fords, boulder
field, scree gully, moorland,
steep rock and steep gully.
HOW HARD IS THE WALK?

The definition of a challenging
hillwalk. There are no graded
LIN
scrambles or particularly complex

sections, but it’s rocky and long
GM
with plenty of points that need

WASDALE
EL
sharp navigation skills.

FELL
LB
WHAT MAP SHOULD I USE?

EC
■ OS Explorer OL6 (1:25k)

K
■ OS Landranger 90 (1:50k)
■ Harvey British Mountain Map
ST
Lake District (1:40k) AR
T/F
WHERE CAN I STAY? IN
ISH
The Wasdale Head Inn is based at
the start and finish of the route, with
1
good food and rooms. YHA Wasdale The walk starts and
Hall has private rooms and dorms, finishes near the
and the Wasdale National Trust iconic Wasdale WASDALE
Campsite is in a stunning setting. Head Inn HEAD

WALKS OF A LIFETIME
m
978
E
L PIK
L
A FE m
SC 964
5 F EL
L
A
9 SC
6
MICKLEDORE Rocky descent
with thin paths
Start of to follow
Lord’s Rake 7 8
THE SCAFELLS
HOLLOW
STONES
SCAFELL
CRAG
GOAT
BROWN
CRAGS BLACK
TONGUE Use Hollow Gill as
CRAG a navigation aid
HOL
in poor visibility
LOW
GILL
LI
NG
ME
10
LL
Easy tracks back

GI
to the start
LL
THE SCREES
BRACKENCLOSE
Wast Water
N

5km DISTANCE
GO THERE...
713m ASCENT when dry conditions give the rock
Grade 2-3 SCRAMBLE RATING a more reassuring level of friction.
St ll
It may be a relative tiddler, but a summit ridge traverse of this
ra
Highland classic is a proper mountain outing to rival almost any.
WORDS BEN WEEKS PHOTOGRAPHY TOM BAILEY
I
f you manage to reach the true summit of that ventures into actual rock climbing.
Stac Pollaidh (and there are reasons as And between the two tops is an almost
to why you might not that we’ll come to unbroken chain of bizarrely sculpted
later) you’ll have reached the far from lofty pinnacles, sandstone outcrops, and rocky
altitude of 612m above sea-level. It isn’t a big ridgeline. It’s a scrambler’s delight, and one
hill then, only just scraping into the official that caters to most abilities and constitutions.
category of ‘mountain’ by some standards. Here’s how to tackle them…
But to measure Stac Pollaidh purely by its
measurements is to do it a great disservice.
Let’s start by looking at its summit – or
rather its summits. There are two, an east
and a west. The east summit is the more
easily gained, whereas the west summit
– Stac Pollaidh’s true summit – requires
NORTH-WEST HIGHLANDS
scrambling of the exposed and tricky kind
Some of the typical terrain you can

expect on the crest of the ridge, with
the iconic outline of Suilven behind.

BRITAIN’S GREATEST SCRAMBLES
1 4
From the roadside car park below the Continue west towards the bristle-backed steep line to the right, remaining aware of
southern flank of Stac Pollaidh, follow ridge. You can pick your own way through those gullies and the consequence of a fall.
the path around the eastern end of the the pinnacles depending on difficulty (and The summit is not far beyond the top.
mountain and continue to follow it as it whether or not you have a rope), but the most
7
traverses up the north flank towards straightforward route passes left of a steep Return to the tower and carefully descend
the saddle on the summit ridge. wall to continue past several gullies. via a groove to the right, shuffling on your
backside where needed. Return to the
2 5
Turn left and head towards the eastern Take the wide scree-filled fourth gully saddle via your outward route and take the
summit. The route clambers over rocks up towards the ridge, tackling some easy path dropping down the northern face in a
towards an initial bump – a false summit – scrambling terrain to reach the crest. westerly direction. Follow the muddy track
before a delicate descent (slabby, so take Follow this west, bypassing any real difficulties around the western end of the mountain to
care in the wet) into a notch. to the right to reach a cairned top. re-join the path back to the road.
3 6
Clamber out of the notch to bag the 551m The summit ahead is blocked by a bulbous
summit just beyond. Retrace your steps tower above two gullies dropping to either MEET OUR
back the way you came (taking care again
on the climb into and out of the gap) to arrive
side of the crest. This is a Grade 3 scramble,
possibly even a ‘moderate’ rock climb. If you LOCAL EXPERT
back at the saddle. decide to tackle it (and if not, return back to the
Scott Kirkhope is a
saddle the way you came) the
best ascent option is a mountaineering instructor
based in Fort William,
who regularly guides in the
Scottish mountains. Find out
more about Scott and his mountaineering
services at kirkhopemountaineering.co.uk
The start of the short Grade 3

scramble blocking your route
to the true summit, visible in
the top left of the picture.

Eilean Sùbhainn
TORRIDON WALKED (& slept) by Ben Weeks, Trail senior writer
Ask me what my favourite have been from another time and another Slioch glowered above the darkening waters.
mountain or route is and I’ll struggle. But land, and put it back into the waters of a It was a near spiritual experience of natural
my favourite bivvy? Easy. We’d canoed over lochan cupped within the interior of the reverence and one of the best night’s sleeps
the steely waters of Loch Maree to Eilean island. And in that lochan we found another I’ve ever had anywhere, let alone on a bivvy.
Sùbhainn, one of the islands that forms Loch tiny island, covered with springy heather and
Maree’s National Nature Reserve. We pulled peppered by birch trees. Here we set our The virgin wilderness that we
HIGHLIGHTS
the canoe out at a secluded bay, carried it bivvies, brewed tea, and watched the sun had all to ourselves, with the
through wild, untouched terrain that could disappear over one end of Loch Maree as going and the coming of the light.
Fairfield
LAKE DISTRICT
WALKED (& slept) by
Louise Parker, Trail art editor
My first bivvy was a Trail classic. Avoiding the

crowds, we walked straight out of Ambleside
late afternoon, with just a fell runner and
Highland cow for company. Fairfield’s mighty
lump rewarded us with an amazing sunset on
that warm, still, August night. According to
my companions, I slept (and snored) soundly,
with a little help from the hipflask! The
morning brought my first cloud inversion,
with the valleys of civilisation hidden until the
promise of a cooked breakfast lured us down.
Sunset, cloud inversion, and a

HIGHLIGHTS
wonderful feeling of freedom.

OUR FAVOURITE BIVVY SPOTS
The Seven Sisters
SOUTH DOWNS
WALKED (& slept) by Oli Reed, Trail editor
On a blazing hot afternoon a few summers ago, we decided we

needed to sleep wild so hopped on a train from London and made
the short(ish) journey south to Eastbourne. Our target was the Seven
Sisters cliffs, which we planned to yomp over during the evening
before rolling out our sleeping bags, drinking a few beers, eating
some Doritos, then crashing out before heading back on an early
train the next morning. We swam in the sea, talked rubbish long
into the night, and I remember laughing a lot! Proof you don’t
always need high mountains to inject adventure into your life.
Watching the final red blaze of the sun as it

HIGHLIGHTS
set across the English Channel. What a night.
The Quiraing ISLE OF SKYE WALKED (& slept) by Sarah Ryan, Trail contributor
With waterproofs heavy with land, it was perfect. Cloud fingers clasped another one, hidden behind a low ridge, just
rain and clothes clinging to my the higher pinnacles and hovered around the behind. The water was sharp with cold and
skin, I slopped into the Quiraing. Late golden crags as I made my way down to my bivvy my skin still tingled with it as I walked back
sunlight glanced across the twisted rocks spot by the loch. Click, whoomph, a blue to pack up. Later on it would be thronged
and green slopes as the clouds chased away flame flared up from the stove and I tipped with visitors but for now it was quiet, the
east, but very soon the alleys and turrets of a stream of chocolate powder into the pot. sun was bright and I had a world of
this medieval fantasy land would fall into I ate my dinner and sipped my chocolate Gothic scrambles to explore.
dusk and darkness. A steady line of people among the unearthly-seeming rocks, and
passed me on their way out and cars fell asleep beside the silver ripples of the Creepy rock formations
HIGHLIGHTS
growled down the road and away. Soon, loch as the stars pinged out between the in the dusk, a bracing morning
I was alone, the haze of golden light had clouds. It was already dawn when I woke up dip, having a usually tourist-filled spot
hardened into grey and the weird witchy and though I could have gone for a swim in almost entirely to myself. And some
rocks smudged in shadow. In this magical the loch I was camping beside, there was serious atmosphere.

B E H I N D T H E P IC T U R E
Lud’s Church
THE ROACHES, THE PEAK DISTRICT WALK A STAR
OF THIS ISSUE P42
It is believed sunlight only

penetrates deep into Lud’s
Church on a midsummer’s day,
Damp and cool, the ravine due to the steep and narrow
is a haven for mosses walls largely blocking out
and ferns that cling to natural light.
the 325-million-year-old
sandstone, known as
the Roaches grit. Lud’s Church is
an 18m deep, 100m
long chasm in the
rock, created by a
massive landslip.
Myth and legend

swirls around Lud’s Church.
Druids believe it to be a
natural chapel, Arthurian
knight Sir Gawain fought
the Green Knight here, and
its name is rumoured to
have been taken from
a young woman buried
at its entrance.
TOM BAILEY
WALK THIS PEAK DISTRICT CHASM AS PART OF AN OVERNIGHT

ADVENTURE AND YOU COULD WELL GET IT ALL TO YOURSELF THE FACTS
START GRID REF
SK013610, Upper Hulme
WALK IT (free parking)
ASCENT 676m
You can walk into Lud’s Church from a car park just 1.5km away at Gradbach,
but what would be the fun in that? Our 24-hour Peak District adventure on DISTANCE 18km
page 42 starts at Ye Olde Rock Inn at Upper Hulme pub (which was closed for TERRAIN Gritstone
refurbishment at the time of writing). We started walking late afternoon, with edges, forest trails,
a bivvy on the Roaches, but this is also an awesome route at any time of day. well walked paths
Looping up and over Ramshaw Rocks, around to Lud’s Church (grid ref SJ987656), DIFFICULTY Easy
and finishing on The Roaches and Hen Cloud, the route packs in some of the Peak walking, but a decent
District’s most dramatic features. From forested trails, big views and deep chasms length with around
to scrambling on the super grippy gritstone rock, there’s something to charm 6 hours on foot
everyone. Stay out overnight and you’ll see a whole different side to the Peaks.

I
22
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