Common Competency - LO 1

Republic of the Philippines
Technical Education Skills and Development Authority

SAMAR NATIONAL SCHOOL OF ARTS AND TRADES
Taft, Eastern Samar
DRES
SMAK
ING
NC II
MICHELLE B. DELMONTE
Instructor
1
INTRODUCTION
This unit covers the knowledge and skills required in taking accurate
measurements of the client and calculating/estimating the materials,
requirements cost.
Taking body measurements is one of the keys to great fit. Whether you
choose to make your block pattern from a commercial fitting pattern or draft
it from your own measurements, having accurate measurements is critical
to the success of garments.
Learning Outcomes:
At the end of this module, the trainees are expected to:

a. Read and interpret drawings;
b. obtain body measurements;
c. perform basic calculations;
d. estimate appropriate quantities.
LO 1: READ AND INTERPRET DRAWINGS
DEFINITIONDE
OF TERMS
Altering - changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body.

Cutting tools - a cutting implement; a tool for cutting.
Fabric - the cloth used in making garments.
Measuring tools - an instruments used for obtaining quantities,

dimensions or forces of real world objects.
Sewing Machine - a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other
material with thread.
Sewing Tools - instruments that aid in accomplishing a sewing task
Sewing tools and equipment
Sewing equipment different tools are

used in garment construction. The skilful use
of the different sewing equipment will help
take body measurement and drafting pattern
with accuracy and speed.
Success in sewing calls for the right tools at
the right time. All tools must be appropriate in a proper order and one must
know how to use them to save time and produce the best result.
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This lesson will provide knowledge and skills of the different tools and
equipment which are necessary in sewing. A complete set of sewing tools
and equipment are presented to help the students work faster.
MEASURING TOOLS
Tape Measure
A flexible measuring device used in taking body

measurements. The front has the measurement of 150
centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass
tape is commonly used by dressmakers.
Sewing Gauge
A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches

long. This gauge is used for measurements at hem lines,
button holes and areas where other small measurements
require checking, such as pleats and tucks. The gauge is
usually made of metal or plastic.
Rulers
A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either

clear or solid. It is a useful tool to have for measuring and
drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids
in connecting lines. A.
Yardstick
A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or

metal. It is used for marking hemlines and checking
grainlines when laying out the pattern.
L-square
The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements

to the draft pattern. It also divides the garment into the
desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is useful
in making straight lines and numbers. It can also function
as a tape measure.
It has two arms connected perpendicularly.
a.The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
3
French Curve
This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and

armhole of the pattern.
CUTTING TOOLS
Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained.

Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches and they do
not damage fabric. On the other hand, dull tools slow the cutting process,
and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing cutting tools should not
be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be sharpened
regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.
Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears
These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting

edge. The blades move easily and cut smoothly along the
entire length and the points should come together. Shears
have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for
most apparel fabrics.
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty

cutting
b. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight
fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears give maximum cutting control and is used
for synthetic fibers and slippery knits
Pinking Shears
This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or

for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams and raw
edges and to create decorative edges on many types of
fabric. It cuts a ravel-resistant edge. This is not
satisfactory for straight cutting.
Cutting scissors
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a. Trimming scissor
It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings,

clipping threads and snipping slashes.
b.Embroidery scissor
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points

are sharp for use in working with fine details in
delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.
c. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.
Thread Clippers
Thread clippers are a handy little spring loaded cutting

tool that allows for the snipping of threads. These
clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they
are not designed to cut fabric.
Seam Ripper
Seam rippers are specifically designed for

ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of
an error or during alterations. They should be used
carefully to prevent damage to the fabric.
Rotary Cutter and Mat
It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter

used by the garment industry. It works like a pizza
cutter and can be used by left or right-handed
sewers. The rotary cutter is available in different sizes
with different blades. When using a rotary cutter,
work on a cutting mat to protect the blade and the
cutting surface.
5
MARKING TOOLS
Marking tools are required for transferring

pattern markings to garment fabric pieces and for
making alterations on garments.
Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker pencil
This is available in white or pastel shades.

This chalk pencil is used to make fine lines on fabric. It
has an erasing brush at one end.
Liquid Marking Pen

Liquid marking pens come in two types. There is one that washes out
and one that fades after 48 hours. Those that wash out should not be used
on fabric that show water marks. The mark should be removed before
pressing the fabric.
Tailor’s Chalk
This is essential as a marker for use on materials.
Tailor‘s chalk is available in a range of colors and is
Removed by brushing.
Wax chalk
This is available in black or white and is used for
woolen fabrics. Wax can be removed by pressing.
Tracing Wheel
There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated

edge and those with a smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel
produces dots on the fabric and is suitable for most types of
fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and
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unlike the serrated edge will not pierce more delicate fabrics. The smooth
edge wheel creates a solid line.
Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper
Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a

specially waxed carbon paper that transfer‘s the tracing wheel‘s markings to
the fabric. A color of tracing paper should be chosen that is close to the
color of the fabric. Different brands of tracing paper have different
instructions; therefore, the instructions for the particular brand that is
purchased should be followed.
PINNING AND SEWING TOOL
Pincushion
A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles

while working to prevent accidents.
Hand Needle
Used in making temporary stitches and

buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand
sewing.
Sewing Needle Threader
It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of

two parts. The handle and the wire. The end of the wire
that is away from the holder is folded. Place the folded
wire of the needle threader through the eye of the sewing
needle.
Thimble
A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger

that pushes the needle in sewing.
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MATERIALS
Fabric
The Fabric is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics,
flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate material for beginners because
these are very easy to handle.
Thread
The thread is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment.
Threads vary in sizes. Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should
have the same color with that of the fabric used.
Types of Sewing Machines
Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It

should be used correctly in accordance with the job requirements.
1.Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in

homes and sometimes in school. This is also called
―Domestic Sewing Machine‖. It is run by foot and may
also be converted to electric power machine.
2.Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is

sometimes called „straight stitching machine‖ or
industrial sewing machine. It has automatic
lubrication and is used by tailors and
dressmakers.
3.Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it

―small machine‖. It finishes the raw edges of the
pattern for construction.
4.Embroidery Machine. This is used in making
fancy stitches and in making different kinds of
embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong
Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other novelty
items.
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5.Button Holer Machine. This is used in making buttonholes on garments.
6.Button Attachment Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the

garments
7.Double Needle Machine. This is used in the

construction of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, outseam and side seam.
8. Bartacking Machine. This is used in

reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets
Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper
and lower parts.
The Upper Parts is composed of:
1. Head is the complete sewing machine

without a cabinet or stand.
2. Arm is the curve part of the head
containing mechanism for operating the
needle.
3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and
beneath is the feed dog where it is
mounted, and the shuttle and lower
thread are placed.
Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm
1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.

2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the
bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
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9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts
Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed
1.Feed Dog moves the fabric while

sewing.
2.Throat plate is the windows of the
feed dog and it is where the
bobbin threads come out.
4. Slide plate is a movable plate that
covers the shuttle and bobbin case.
4.Shuttle holds the bobbin case while
sewing.
5.Bobbin is a metal spool for winding
thread.
6.Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.
10
The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine
The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand.
The cabinet has drawers and screw on the hinges for the attachment
of the head. The following are the lower parts of the sewing machine
and their uses:
1.Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2.Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3.Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4.Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5.Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6.Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7.Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through
the pitman rod.
8.Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9.Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the
hinges.
11
12

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Republic of the Philippines

Technical Education Skills and Development Authority

At the end of this module, the trainees are expected to:

LO 1: READ AND INTERPRET DRAWINGS

Altering - changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body.

Measuring tools - an instruments used for obtaining quantities,

Sewing tools and equipment

Sewing equipment different tools are

A flexible measuring device used in taking body

A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches

A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either

A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or

The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements

This is used to shape the depth of the neckhole and

Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained.

Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears

These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting

a. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty

This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or

It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings,

It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points

This is intended for making buttonholes.

Thread clippers are a handy little spring loaded cutting

Seam rippers are specifically designed for

Rotary Cutter and Mat

It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter

Marking tools are required for transferring

Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker pencil

This is available in white or pastel shades.

Liquid Marking Pen

There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated

Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper

Dressmaker‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker‘s tracing paper is a

PINNING AND SEWING TOOL

A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles

Used in making temporary stitches and

Sewing Needle Threader

It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of

A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger

Types of Sewing Machines

Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It

1.Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in

2.Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is

3.Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it

6.Button Attachment Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the

7.Double Needle Machine. This is used in the

8. Bartacking Machine. This is used in

Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

1. Head is the complete sewing machine

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.

Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed

1.Feed Dog moves the fabric while

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