C A R I B B E A N On

-lin
e

C MPASS
FEBRUARY 2012 NO. 197 The C
Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

WHAT TO DO IN
BARBUDA? See story on page 28
MARTIN
STEVE MAIER
MANLEY
FEBRUARY 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2
 DEPARTMENTS
Info & Updates ...................... 4 Island Poets ........................... 38
Business Briefs ....................... 8 Cruising Kids’ Corner ............ 39
Eco-News .............................. 10 Caribbean Maritime History 39
Regatta News........................ 12 Cooking with Cruisers .......... 43
Caribbean Voyaging ........... 24 Readers’ Forum ..................... 45
Meridian Passage ................. 30 Calendar of Events ............... 49
The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Book Review ......................... 36 Caribbean Market Place ..... 50
www.caribbeancompass.com The Caribbean Sky ............... 37 Classified Ads ....................... 54
Sailor’s Horoscope................ 38 Advertisers’ Index ................. 54
FEBRUARY 2012 • NUMBER 197 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado
Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 696 74 77 01
isabelle.prado@wanadoo.fr
ISHWAR PERSAUD

Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

LUCY TULLOCH

Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410 Puerto Rico: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell
compass@vincysurf.com 787-504-5163, ellenbirrell@gmail.com
www.caribbeancompass.com Distribution - Sunbay Marina, Fajardo
Olga Diaz de Peréz
Editor...........................................Sally Erdle Tel: (787) 863 0313 Fax: (787) 863 5282
sally@caribbeancompass.com sunbaymarina@aol.com
Assistant Editor...................Elaine Ollivierre St. Lucia: Ad Sales & Distribution - Maurice Moffat
jsprat@vincysurf.com Tel: (758) 452 0147 Cell: (758) 720 8432.
Advertising & Distribution........Tom Hopman mauricemoffat@hotmail.com
tom@caribbeancompass.com St. Maarten/St. Barths/Guadeloupe:
Art, Design & Production......Wilfred Dederer Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre
wide@caribbeancompass.com Mob: + 590 690 760 100
steflegendre@wanadoo.fr
Show Boats Accounting............................Shellese Craigg
shellese@caribbeancompass.com St. Thomas/USVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell
787-504-5163, ellenbirrell@gmail.com
Antigua’s 50th Charter Gala .. 7 Compass Agents by Island: Distribution - Bryan Lezama
Tel: (340) 774 7931, blezama1@earthlink.net
Antigua: Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch
Tel (268) 720-6868 St. Vincent & the Grenadines:
Cruise Kuna Yala lucy@thelucy.com
Barbados: Distribution - Doyle Sails
Ad Sales - Shellese Craigg
shellese@caribbeancompass.com Tel: (784) 457 3409
Distribution - Doc Leslie Tel: (784) 529-0970
Very practical tips................. 18 Tel/Fax: (246) 423-4600
Tortola/BVI: Ad Sales - Ellen Birrell

FEBRUARY 2012
Curaçao: Distribution - Budget Marine Curaçao 787-504-5163, ellenbirrell@gmail.com
JAMES ULIK

curacao@budgetmarine.com Tel: (5999) 462 77 33 Distribution - Gladys Jones

Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584
Dominica: Distribution - Hubert J. Winston
Dominica Marine Center, Tel: (767) 448-2705, Venezuela: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik
info@dominicamarinecenter.com Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448
xanadumarine@hotmail.com
Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique:
Ad Sales & Distribution - Karen Maaroufi
Cell: (473) 457-2151 Office: (473) 444-3222

Volcano Visit compassgrenada@gmail.com

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings.
Meander in Montserrat ......... 26 See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to sally@caribbeancompass.com.
We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no
Sailors’ Celebrations Fun’s Still Free responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity.
©2012 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except
short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd.
How we do the holidays .. 21, 22 … even in the BVI! ................ 42 ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover photo: Barbuda offers lonely anchorages, endless beaches and unusual adventures ashore. Photo by Steve Manley; see more of his photos at www.spicenecklace.com

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from

Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors
can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.
“In my mind’s set, Caribbean Compass is the only
periodical that covers the entire Caribbean for CRUISING
BOATS. In fact I am so attached to it that I could not

PAGE 3
imagine a month without having it to read. Regardless of
what else I do, I am a cruising sailor and have been for
my entire life. While my eye may pass and stop for
a moment on some coverage of this or that in the
Caribbean my real interest is in cruising it. For what it is
worth, no one else has done or does it better.”
— Frank Virgintino
Free Cruising Guides
www.freecruisingguide.com

Click Google Map link below to find the Caribbean Compass near you!
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078&spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed
 the generosity of several ex-pat residents, Kadem McGillivary from Bishops and
Quiteria Coy from HSS have been recognized for scholastic excellence with the

Info
awards of the Sue Kingsman Memorial Scholarships, administered by the CCEF.

& Updates
Carriacou Yachting Community Provides Scholarships
The Carriacou yachting community provided six TA Marryshow Community College
scholarships in 2011. The Carriacou Children’s Education Fund (CCEF) provided
scholarships to Coatney Charles and Deon Crompton from Bishops College and
Curtrim McGillivary and Jillean Scott from Hillsborough Secondary School. Through

These young men are just three of the six students who are attending the main cam-
pus of TA Marryshow Community College in Grenada thanks to CCEF scholarships

Five of these students, plus 2010 scholarship recipient Trevin McLawrence, are
attending the main campus of TAMCC in Grenada. One student from the 2011
group plus 2010 recipients Leah Hagley and Gloria Wells are attending the satellite
campus at Six Roads, Carriacou. The scholarships cover full tuition and fees for two
years plus a stipend of EC$1,000 towards the purchase of textbooks.
These students bring to 19 the number of scholarships awarded by the CCEF.
PAGE 4

Previous awardees include Michelle Alexander, Nadia Edwards, Reann Martineau,

Rena Noel and Tahera Paul from Bishops College, and Stacey Bain, Carnisha
Charles, Camille DeRoche, Marcia Scott and Codell Stafford from HSS. A number of
these have already put their education to good use as staff at HSS and several local
businesses in Carriacou.
Each student writes an essay of 1,000 words on the topic “How I will use my educa-
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

tion to build a better Grenada”, and the primary focus for all students has been
development of opportunities for the youth of Grenada, an issue dear to their hearts.
Rholda Quamina (Bishops College) and Brian Lendore (Hillsborough Secondary),
Judy Evans (CCEF), Fleure Patrice (Director of TAMCC Carriacou), Jillean Scott, Leah the principals of the two secondary schools in Carriacou, select the scholarship
Hagley, Gloria Wells, Lizzy Conijin (CCEF), and John Pompa (CCEF) recipients based on CXC/CSEC scores and financial need.
—Continued on next page
FEBRUARY 2012
—Continued from previous page events such as the Antigua Charter Yacht Show, the Antigua Classic Regatta,
Patrick Compton, of the Carriacou branch of the Grenada Union of Teachers, Antigua Sailing Week, the RORC Caribbean 600 and the Superyacht Cup Antigua.
assists in the process every year, collecting and reviewing the essays. Supported by advertising, the Antigua & Barbuda Marine Guide is free to the
Visiting yachts and local businesses continue to assist local students through the end users.
fundraising efforts of the CCEF. The 2011 awards bring the total amount of financial • CommuterCruiser.com is an information-packed resource for commuter cruisers.
aid to more than $34,000. With the amount already allocated for 2012, the total “Commuter cruising” — combining the best of two very different lifestyles — is one
contribution by CCEF for scholarships to TAMCC will exceed $45,000. of the fastest growing segments of the cruising community. The past ten years have
The Carriacou Children’s Education Fund is an informal, voluntary group of individu- seen an explosion in popularity as cruisers spend the cold winter months cruising
als from visiting yachts from around the world, and a number of concerned local warm tropical paradises, then leave the boat in paradise and return home during
businessmen and women. Since 2000, CCEF has conducted fund raising activities the more temperate months enjoying family, friends and changing seasons. Other
during the first week of August at the Carriacou Yacht Club in Hermitage, Carriacou commuter cruisers may live a distance from their boats and go for mini-cruises rang-
coinciding with the Carriacou Regatta Festival.
During this time, CCEF has raised over $150,000 to provide uniforms, school supplies
and other educational assistance to the children of Carriacou. The mission is to help
as many children as possible and to fill the gap between what is required for a child
to receive a proper education and what the families can provide.
Since its inception, CCEF has provided assistance towards this goal in over 500
cases. Success is due primarily to the hard work and generosity of the visiting yachts
and the local population who support CCEF, and is the yachts’ way of saying “thank
you” to the people of Carriacou for the warm welcome always received. These
scholarships at TAMCC are a natural extension of the assistance that CCEF has pro-
vided the primary and secondary school children of Carriacou in the past, targeting
assistance for the future leaders of Grenada, Carriacou and Petite Martinique. CCEF
is just one example of how Carriacou benefits from the presence of the yachts.
If you would like to become involved in this project, contact ccefinfo@gmail.com.

Yacht Chef Killers Get Life Sentences in St. Maarten

The yachting community in St. Maarten was stunned in February of last year by the
murder of 37-year-old Frenchman Ludovic Guillevin, a chef aboard the 126-foot
motor yacht Cheetah Moon. After a night on the town, Ludovic was picked up by a
gypsy cab. Its two occupants took him to a beach to rob him. Ludovic was found
on February 26th on Mullet Bay Beach badly beaten but alive. He was transported
to a hospital in Martinique where he died later that day of his injuries.
Two other victims were subsequently robbed and killed in a similar manner while
heading home from work in the same area.
Curtley A. Richards (32) and Sherwan Roberts (20), both from Dominica, were Are you a part-time cruiser? Meet Jan Irons, co-creator of the website
arrested on April 7th, 2011. On December 14th, 2011, Judge Monique Keppels hand- CommuterCruiser.com
ed the two men life sentences, the maximum allowed under St. Maarten law. As is

FEBRUARY 2012
often the case, a spate of crimes was solved with the capture of one or two perpe- ing from long weekends to a month or more several times a year.
trators. The Court found Richards and Roberts responsible for eight crimes involving With over 200 articles and three new articles added each week, CommuterCruiser.
aggravated manslaughter, rape and theft, theft with violence and severe mistreat- com addresses issues common to those leaving their boats, featuring practical
ment, all committed between February 13th and March 4, 2011. advice and downloadable PDF checklists for Leaving the Boat for the Summer,
Re-Commissioning the Boat When You Return and Leaving the Dock.
Cruisers’ Site-ings The site is chock-full of tips, techniques and real world info from commuter cruisers,
• The Antigua & Barbuda Marine Guide has a new website for 2012 at www.anti- including information on a variety of marinas and cruising grounds experienced by
guamarineguide.com. The new website more closely follows the style of the printed the authors, Jan and David Irons, during their 10,000 miles aboard from Annapolis to
Marine Guide and now includes links from advertisers’ websites and e-mail addresses. Cartagena, Colombia and return to Florida.
The Antigua & Barbuda Marine Guide, published since 1994, is a guide for sailors • Where do you go when you are desperate to find crew, services, boat parts or
visiting the twin island state. The Marine Guide is distributed in Antigua through mari- events in any given anchorage or country?

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
nas, chandleries, Customs & Immigration offices plus other outlets and at yachting —Continued on next page

Antigua:
Marine Power Svcs:
268-460-1850
Seagull Yacht Svcs:
268-460-3049
Bequia:
Caribbean Diesel:
784-457-3114

PAGE 5
Dominica:
Dominica Marine Center:
767-448-2705
Grenada:
Grenada Marine:
473-443-1667
Enza Marine:
473-439-2049
A Family of Generators with
Martinique:
Inboard Diesel Svcs:
Relatives throughout the Caribbean
596-596-787-196
St. Croix:
St. Croix Marine:
340-773-0289
St. John:
Coral Bay Marine:
340-776-6665
St. Lucia:
Martinek:
758-450-0552
St. Maarten:
Electec:
599-544-2051
St. Thomas:
All Points Marine:
340-775-9912
Trinidad & Tobago:
Engine Tech Co. Ltd:
868-667-7158
Dockyard Electrics:
868-634-4272
Tortola:
Reliability. Durability. Simplicity.
Cay Electronics:
284-494-2400
Marine Maintenance Svcs:
284-494-3494
Parts & Power:
284-494-2830
www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com
C001
 —Continued from previous page at the Free Cruising Guides website.
Are you new in a place and want to find out what’s going on? That is where • A short film at http://vimeo.com/32574938 is part of a documentary film by
Desperate Sailors come in. Designed and established by John Perry, www.desper- Alexis Andrews that is in production, estimated for completion by winter 2013. It was
atesailors.com is for cruisers and sailors by a cruiser and sailor himself. Having sailed shot in Carriacou, where some of the last Caribbean boatbuilders wield their tradi-
for many years back and forth across the Atlantic John found himself needing crew tional skills, in St. Barth’s where the smuggling trade in liquor and cigarettes thrived,
but with no particular resource to turn to. With this idea in mind and the wheels set and in Antigua where the Carriacou vessels race each year among vintage yachts
in motion the site has evolved to encompass a wider variety of cruisers needs and in the Classic Regatta. Mixed with rare archival footage and interviews with the last
wants putting people with skills in touch with people with needs and vice versa. old-time Caribbean sea captains, the film combines dramatic sailing footage with
Desperate Sailors is the definitive website for the cruising community bringing narration and an original soundtrack to tell the story of the Vanishing Sail of the
together services, crew, boats and events. It is easy to use; simply sign up, fill in your West Indies.
profile and off you go. It even has the new “project waterline”: a classified section
to offload those treasures of the bilge that you have been carrying for ages. The live Caribbean Arts & Crafts Fest Next Month in Tortola
chat and message feature make it easy to connect with other members. The new The 2012 Caribbean Arts and Crafts Festival will take place in Tortola from March
blog section is extremely simple to use, there is even a facility to upload your photos 9th through 14th.
and share with other people and armchair readers back home who do not need to

JO-ANNE SEWLAL
be members. If you organising a potluck or a beach volleyball afternoon, let other
sailors know about it with the Desperate Sailors Events, which is also where local bars
advertise their happy hour or book swaps.
• Frank Virgintino reports: Free Cruising Guides is pleased to announce the immi-
nent release of the Caribbean Security Index. This index will be reviewed and updat-
ed monthly. It covers the Caribbean — the entire Caribbean — country by country.
Today cruisers have a great deal of technology available to make cruising safer.
Weather reports, communication systems, chart plotters, Automated Information
Systems (AIS), Radar and so much more all work together to keep cruising boats on
course and “off the reefs”.
However, regarding security, we have little more than chronologies of crimes com-
mitted and word of mouth. Because security underway and at anchor is so impor-
tant, cruisers need to have something more that they can use and rely on. Safety is
a dynamic quotient. What was safe yesterday can very well be dangerous tomor-
row. The basis for change is related to a variety of factors that can be reviewed and
analyzed, and from which probabilities can be determined. While no system is fool-
proof, if the factors being analyzed are broad enough and known to be related,
they can be weighted and a determination made as to the risk involved.
CSI ratings are not meant to be an absolute. What they are is a carefully calculated
risk assessment expressed as a number between 1 and 10 (10 being the most secure)
along with notes on mitigating factors that were observed. A good example would
be the Rio Dulce in Guatemala. A review of the infrastructure and past history as well
as socioeconomic factors clearly indicate that a boat in a marina and its crew are
PAGE 6

quite safe, while those that are anchored out are at high risk. There are many factors
that can explain why this is so, some of which have deep cultural ramifications. At the last festival, in 2010, more than 50 artisans from 15 Caribbean nations partici-
Free Cruising Guides look forward to your comments and questions and hope that pated and more than 1,000 visitors enjoyed the activities and crafts on offer. The
this monthly publication will add value to your cruising experience. 2012 festival is already shaping up to be even bigger, with support from across the
For more information visit www.freecruisingguides.com. entire region. The festival brings together every interest in the Caribbean Arts and
• Free Cruising Guides also announces the release of the Cruising Guide to Puerto Crafts scene.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Rico, which will be available at www.freecruisingguides.com as well as at Kindle For more information visit www.caribbeanartisan.net.
and other e-pub bookstores. The over 200-page guide covers all four coasts of
Puerto Rico as well as its off-lying islands. Puerto Rico is an underutilized and safe Welcome Aboard!
cruising area and it is hoped by the Department of Tourism of Puerto Rico that this In this issue of Compass we welcome new advertiser Velocity water taxi services of
guide will encourage more yacht traffic to the island. The guide was written by the Southern Grenadines, in the Market Place section pages 50 through 53. Good to
Frank Virgintino, author of a series of Free Caribbean Cruising Guides, all available have you with us!
FEBRUARY 2012
 One of the great things about the Antigua Charter Yacht Show is that it is not only

50 Years
about showing boats and entertaining.
It is informative: there are early morning talks by experts, wine tasting and more.
There is support: shuttle buses run between the three marinas that host the
yachts on show, and the team at the Registration Desk are always on hand to help
newcomers to the show.

of the Antigua
Charter Yacht Show
by Lucy Tulloch

ALL PHOTOS: LUCY TULLOCH

Above: Brokers got a glimpse at what’s on offer for charter guests, such as the
lavish interior of Huntress
Below: The best of local culture was also on display
It is a networker’s heaven: 113 boats, 300 agents, 650 crew and 177 non-exhibit-
ing vendors all covered by press from all over the world.
It is competitive! The chef’s competition is renowned in the industry, having run
for 12 years, and is “an extravaganza of epicurean splendour” with much-sought-
after prizes.
Pendennis Shipyard of Falmouth, UK,
and Antigua Yacht Club of Falmouth

FEBRUARY 2012
Harbour, Antigua hosted a cocktail party to
launch their new Falmouth-to-Falmouth
Rum Race to feed into the 2012 Olympic
Charter Show boats congregated at Nelson’s Dockyard and at Antigua Yacht Club Superyacht programme in the UK.
and Falmouth Harbour marinas The Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday
Anniversaries celebrate not just where we are now but how we got here and the evenings saw participating yachts open by
birth of something — and the 50th Antigua Charter Yacht Show, held December 5th invitation only for the Andreas Liveras Best
through 10th, 2011, was no different. Yacht Party Awards. The crews’ hospitality,
From the sparkling row of shiny white domes on the motor yachts moored in immaculate displays and creative table
decor were impressive but the smiles and

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
historic Nelson’s Dockyard, English Harbour, to the sight of the beautifully restored
1902 Schooner Coral of Cowes moored cheek by jowl to the carbon-built minimal- genuine enthusiasm shone through even
ist Wallys, this show celebrates a mix of innovation against a backdrop of history their professional polish. Personal com-
and tradition. mendation goes to the crew of Huntress.
It was the Nicholson family who, when they took some American tourists on an It seemed more than ever that this was a
adventure down island on their schooner Mollihawk in the 1950s, perhaps inadver- year for innovation. AIR — the largest boat
tently began the Caribbean yacht charter industry. They certainly paved the way to in the show, Feadship’s 81-metre (266-foot)
a whole new way of life for many people on this south coast of Antigua because the superyacht — has a one-of-a-kind paint
yachts need a captain and a crew, who need training, and the boats need marinas job. Her black hull has been painted with a
and security, maintenance, chandlery, storage and boatyards. They need electri- specialized and environmentally friendly
cians, sailmakers, carpenters, engineers, varnishers, fridge and watermaker repair- nano coating technique that has a matte
ers, fabricators, sign writers, food suppliers, florists. And that’s before what the crew finish. Almost confirmed is the new
themselves need! Caribbean pre-arrival notification system,
In short, whether you are deeply involved in the industry or simply notice the view a free (government-funded) service to clear
of English Harbour changing from November to December, there is no doubt of yacht your yacht into the island before you arrive.

PAGE 7
chartering’s significance to the island. A French firm is developing an app for the
One particular group of people had been hard at work since about January last iPad to show 3-D virtual boat tours. Nelson’s Dockyard has built a new dock allowing
year, making sure everything about the annual charter show ran smoothly. The 245-foot M/Y Leander to tie up in this beautiful National Park.
backbone of the show is Sarah Sebastian, Afsaneh Franklin, Janetta Miller, Lynn On the last day of the 50th Annual Antigua Charter Yacht Show, following the
Bardoe, Paul Deeth, Ann Marie Martin and Festus Isaac. The theme to commemorate traditional Beating the Retreat by Antigua & Barbuda Royal Police Band, the par-
these 50 impressive years was to be Black and Gold. ticipating boats blew their horns to mark the end of the show. There followed an
And so, it was with fitting glamour but set in the traditional Copper and Lumber exhibition by more than 25 Antiguan businesses of things to do in Antigua — crucial
Store Hotel in the Dockyard that the Welcome Party was held. The black and gold and inspirational ideas for visitors who want to know Antigua beyond English and
dresses were not ruined by the rain (which poured down during most of the show) Falmouth Harbours.
and spirits weren’t dampened by the weather. A selection of fantastic dance For more information visit www.antiguayachtshow.com.
troupes entertained us after a feast of seafood and West Indian cuisine, and bro-
kers, agents, captains and press caught up with each other in perfect surround- Sailor, photographer and designer Lucy Tulloch is based in Antigua. Visit her web-
ings for the event. site at www.thelucy.com.

Johnson Hardware Ltd.

FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE
Chain & Rope Stainless Fasteners Antifouling Paint
Anchors & Fenders Stainless Fittings Paint Brushes
Electric Wire VHF Radios Epoxy Resins
Marine Hoses Flares & Life Jackets Sanding Paper & Discs
Bilge Pumps Snorkeling Equipment Hand & Power Tools
Lubricants & Oils Fishing Gear Houseware & Cookware

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia  Tel: (758) 452 0299  Fax: (758) 452 0311  e-mail: hardware@candw.lc
 BUSINESS BRIEFS
LIAT to Expand Air Cargo Service
Got stuff to move around the Eastern Caribbean? The regional airline LIAT intends
to expand its cargo service this year, Director of Cargo and Quikpak, Wilbur
Edwards, has announced.
The freighter service transported a million pounds of cargo within a year of its
February 2011 launching. Edwards said the milestone was achieved with the recent
opening of the San Juan, Puerto Rico and the United States Virgin Islands markets.
The airline was previously unable to move cargo into those territories because of the
2001 terrorist attacks in the United States.
“In 2012 we will focus on greater service delivery and using our website to better
advantage in terms of tracking, proof of deliveries and other customer service infor-
mation,” Edwards said. He noted that the freighter service has stimulated significant
movements on LIAT’s regular line flights, which when combined produced more
than 1.5 million pounds. The airline official pointed out that amount does not include
more than 30,000 pounds of bulk baggage also carried by the freighter aircraft over
the period.
For more information on LIAT’s cargo service see ad on this page.

Sea Hawk Paints Joins St. Maarten Regatta Sponsors

The 32nd edition of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta (www.heinekenregatta.
com) is pleased to add Sea Hawk Paints as one of their presenting sponsors. This

TOM ZINN/ST. MAARTEN HEINEKEN REGATTA

PAGE 8
FEBRUARY 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS

family owned and operated business fits into the regatta family with ease, as both
the regatta and Sea Hawk strive to be on the cutting edge of technology and work
hard to bring the best possible product to their customers.
“We are proud to be chosen as one of the Official Sponsors of the Heineken
Regatta in 2012,” reported Erik Norrie, CEO of Sea Hawk Paints. “Although we’ve
sponsored individual yachts in regattas throughout the Caribbean for many years,
including those in the Heineken Regatta, this is the first year that we will be an Official
Sponsor,” he said. Sea Hawk Paints was established in Clearwater, Florida in 1978.
For more information on Sea Hawk Paints see ad on page 23.

Offshore Risk Management News

For Offshore Risk Management, 2011 was a year of exciting challenges, many new
clients and new products. Products included insurance for private and pleasure
yachts, bareboat charter boats, captained charter boats, submarines and submers-
ibles, fishing boats, cargo, deliveries, marinas, marine repairers and artisans, yacht
haulout and much more.
For more information on Offshore Risk Management see ad on page 10.

United Insurance Sponsors Inter-Schools Cricket

For over 20 years, United Insurance has been a loyal sponsor of the Inter-Schools
Cricket Competition in Antigua & Barbuda and the other OECS islands. Anjo
Insurance is United’s agent in Antigua & Barbuda.

United recognizes that the fast pace and mental challenges of the sport of cricket
make it the perfect activity to condition the body and shape the minds of today’s
young athletes. The sport fosters strategic thinking, team unity and peer respect, les-
sons that can be utilized in all areas of life as the youth embark on adulthood. All
this ultimately assists in reinforcing historical, traditional and cultural links to the sport
in the Caribbean.
—Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page
This year United Insurance has once again given its commitment as the major sponsor
of the Schools Cricket Competition in collaboration with Antigua’s Ministry of Sports,
organizers of the competition. The competition runs from February through June.
Established in 1977, United has grown with the Caribbean people and recognizes the
youth as being the future. This recognition prompts United to continue giving back to
communities in this way, reminding all that they are in “Safe Hands with United”.
United now writes all major non-life classes of insurance through its Head Office in
Barbados, Branch Office in Trinidad and Tobago, and our agency networks in
Antigua and Barbuda, Dominica, Grenada, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the
Grenadines, Montserrat, Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, the Netherland Antilles,
Guyana and Belize.
For more information on Anjo Insurance see ad on page 33.

Jamaica’s Newest Dinghy Dock

Errol Flynn Marina’s General Manager Dale Westin reports: In my experience in the
Caribbean since 1979, I have noticed that in many areas yacht folks on anchor are
often regarded as second-class citizens and generally ignored as something of a
nuisance. This is a mistake. They all spend money in our respective locations, patron-
izing restaurants, bars, supermarkets, etcetera. They are often considered pests as
they frequently park their dinghies in locations generally reserved for larger yachts
that patronize dock facilities.
Here, at Errol Flynn Marina in Jamaica, we take a different attitude and have bent
over backwards to accommodate this valued visitor. How? We now have a special
dinghy dock to cater to this type of visitor. The 40-foot-long dock sits about a foot
above the water, making it an easy on-and-off situation for anyone. The dock is
accessed by an aluminum ramp that rides with the tide. We even provide free dock
carts that can be brought down to the dock for easy loading or off-loading of provi-
sions or anything else. The dock also features numerous cleats so dinghy painters
can be secured without preventing another user from untying his dinghy.
For more information visit www.errolflynnmarina.com.

Island Boats of Grenada Holds

Inaugural Cruise
Island Boats Limited held its inaugural cruise
for invited guests on board Island Hopper,
Grenada’s newest cruise boat, in December.
Island Hopper is a 37-foot open motorboat

FEBRUARY 2012
that carries up to 25 passengers. Guests,
including representatives from the island’s
leading hotels and tour operators, enjoyed a
Wine and Cheese Cruise off Grenada’s west
coast at sunset. Island Boats Limited is owned
and operated by Brian and Marion Samuel, a
Grenadian-Jamaican couple who returned to
Grenada after a lifetime roaming all over the
world. They bring global experience, commit-
ment and passion to their new business ven-
ture. “Our aim is to take visitors and

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Grenadians alike off the beaten track, to
expose our clients to the marine beauty that
surrounds us but which we take for granted,” says Brian.
For more information contact Islandboatsgrenada@gmail.com, tel (473) 420-1903.

HIHO to Supply Antigua Sailing Week Clothing

HIHO, the BVI-based brand of Caribbean clothing, has inked a multi-year deal to
be the exclusive clothing supplier to Antigua Sailing Week. HIHO will design a range
of casual and technical clothing for the event. The collection will feature the
brand’s quality materials and details, plus dedicated hangtags and main labels.
HIHO will partner with the Galley Boutique in English Harbour to offer year-round
sales. “Teaming up with HIHO provides us with a fantastic opportunity to underscore
everything that is great about Antigua Sailing Week,” said Marketing, Sponsorship
Liaison and Shoreside Organization manager Alison Sly-Adams. From Tortola the

PAGE 9
HIHO designers offered: “It’s great to be a part of the Caribbean’s oldest and best
sailing regatta!”
For more information on HIHO clothing visit http://shop.go-hiho.com.

Paper and Digital Charts Now Available for Cuba

NV Charts, a global supplier of precision charting products for mariners and cruis-
ing sailors, has now extended its coverage and produced new chart regions for the
PHIL CHAPMAN

north coast of Cuba. The coverage is divided into two regions; the northwest coast
chart set is Region 10.2, and the northeast coast is Region 10.1.
—Continued on page 47
 Caribbean
Eco-News
Man O’ War on Your Shore?
Juliana Coffey reports: On Thursday, November 17th, 2011 several Magnificent
Frigatebirds (Fregata magnificens) were observed near the main jetty in Mayreau, St.
Vincent & the Grenadines, in pursuit of some fisheries discards. One particular
individual bore a yellow tag on each wing with corresponding letter and number
codes. These codes detail its personal identity within a doctoral research project
being conducted by Sarah Trefry at the University of New Brunswick in Canada. This
project aims to determine where frigatebirds go when they are not at their breeding

STEVE MANLEY
PAGE 10

Frigatebirds at their colony in Barbuda. Have you seen tagged frigatebirds elsewhere?
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

colonies, as well as attempting to understand the size differences between adult

males and females, a characteristic not usually seen in seabirds.
This project is being conducted in Barbuda, which has the largest frigatebird colony
in the region (see related article on page 28). So far, there have been over 300 male and
female birds tagged. Sarah has received reports of over 100 re-sightings as far north as
Florida, throughout the Lesser Antilles, and as far south as French Guyana. Some
birds have been sighted numerous times, which can shed light on an individual’s
movement patterns over time. This particular individual, an adult female, was tagged
in Barbuda in 2009, seen in Guadeloupe in May 2009, back on Barbuda in 2010, in
Guadeloupe again in early 2011, and has now made her way to the Grenadines.
Speculation also exists on the differences of breeding frequency between male and
female frigatebirds. A female frigatebird lays one egg at a time, which may take up
to almost two months to hatch, and more than a year to become independent. The
female accompanies the immature bird throughout its first year, teaching it how to
survive, while the male leaves the colony early in the chick’s life stage. One theory is
FEBRUARY 2012

that males may breed numerous times within one year, while the female, occupied
with her fledgling, breeds every other year. In fact, one of Sarah’s tagged males from
Barbuda later attempted to breed at a colony off French Guyana. This information
has management implications for the species, and suggests that there is a meta-
population of frigatebirds in the Caribbean, rather than specific populations defined
by breeding colonies.
Frigatebirds feed primarily on fish, and are known to regularly attack other birds,
forcing them to either drop or regurgitate their catches which can then easily be
scooped up by the larger, aerodynamic frigatebird. This behaviour has earned them
the name “Man O’ War” bird throughout the region. As their feathers are not water-
proof, they cannot land in the water, meaning that all foraging antics must occur
during flight. Frigatebirds have been known to be almost constantly on the wing,
utilizing thermals for travel, and are quite regularly seen along coastlines or at sea.
If you live or are traveling in the region and see any frigatebirds with tags, please
report your sighting.
For more information on this project, or to report a sighting, please visit www.unb.
ca/acwern/people/strefry.htm.

Isla Tortuga Highlighted at Ecological Congress

At the Ninth Annual Venezuelan Ecological Congress, held at the Universidad de
Sigo on Isla Margarita in November of last year, Fundación La Tortuga made a pre-
sentation called “Isla Tortuga, Biodiversity at Risk”. The presentation informed
researchers, students and the public about the results of more than seven years of
scientific investigation done on the federal dependency of Isla Tortuga, the second
largest island in Venezuela.
The studies included sea turtles, birds, vegetation, phytoplankton, water chemis-
try, marine mammals, algae, sponges, corals, cartography, geology, archeology and
anthropology, and indicated that stronger legal protection from negative human
impact is needed for this unique reservoir of biodiversity and natural beauty.
The island is especially noted as a nesting site for numerous seabird populations,
some of which are in decline. At the Congress, Professor Gedio Marín pointed out
that part of the problem is the growth of the tourist industry, with the inherent
urban development of the island’s coasts that possibly isolates rocky forelands,
which previously were relatively safe places to nest. Also tourists like to venture in
the remote islands to view the colonies of sea birds. Unfortunately, sea birds are
highly intolerant of the human presence, and a visit by people untrained in proper
behavior can decimate the annual reproduction rate of a colony.
For more information visit www.fundacionlatortuga.org.

Marine Parks Hold Law Enforcement Workshop

Park officials and managers, and police, coast guard, and enforcement officials
from Grenada and St. Vincent & the Grenadines met from November 29th to
December 2nd, 2011 in St. George’s, Grenada to train together and share experi-
ences in the enforcement of marine protected area (MPA) rules and regulations.
—Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page
The workshop was developed and presented by the Grenada Fisheries Division,
Sustainable Grenadines Incorporated (SusGren Inc.), the Environmental Law
Institute (ELI), the Grenada Coast Guard, and the Grenada Department of Public
FREE CRUISING GUIDES
Prosecutions. Officers from Grenada Marine Protected Areas Network (GMPA), the
National Parks, Rivers and Beaches Authority, and the Tobago Cays Marine Park Dominican Republic
(TCMP) of St. Vincent & the Grenadines learned fundamental principles and techni-
cal enforcement skills.
“The training comes at a crucial time for shoreline habitats in the Grenadines,”
Cruising Guide
said Director of SusGren Inc., Martin Barriteau. The coastal and marine environ- www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com
ment — coral reefs, seagrass beds, and mangrove forests of the Caribbean — are
essential for local livelihoods, food security, protection from natural hazards, and
tourism. These critical ecosystems are threatened by overfishing, pollution, poach- Haiti
ing, and climate change. Protecting coastal and marine resources is critical for the
sustainable development of the countries of the Caribbean. Indeed, marine pro-
tected areas seek to conserve marine biodiversity, ensure protection of valuable
Cruising Guide
fisheries resources, and provide the basis for sustainable alternative livelihoods for www.haiticruisingguide.com
coastal communities.
This landmark training course brought together wardens and rangers from Sandy
Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area, Moliniere/Beausejour Marine Protected Jamaica
Area, and the Tobago Cays Marine Park, to learn the basics of law enforcement and
technical environmental issues. The wardens and rangers applied their new knowl-
edge in an at-sea practical exercise. They practiced apprehension, arrest, and gath-
Cruising Guide
ering evidence for enforcement proceedings. The course was completed with war- www.jamaicacruisingguide.com
dens and rangers presenting their cases in a mock trial, complete with prosecutors
and a magistrate.

Oil Spill Fears in Statia

Trinidad
As journalist Betsy Crowfoot reported in the January 2nd edition of Ecology Today
(www.ecology.com), concerns are mounting about a proposed oil terminalling and
Cruising Guide
processing expansion on the Caribbean island of St. Eustatius (Statia). The news www.trinidadruisingguide.com
comes as NuStar Energy LLP (NuStar) petitions to expand its presence on Statia.
Already NuStar has a large oil terminal on the north end of the island: 67 tanks
with a capacity of more than 13 million barrels, and another five tanks slated to go
Cayman Islands
on-line. Earlier this year NuStar asked the Island Council to rezone a parcel of land
to allow the construction of 30 to 40 more 100-foot storage and processing tanks, Cruising Guide
adjacent downtown Oranjestad.
But the increasing frequency of oil spills related to groundings, mishaps and neg-
www.caymanislandscruisingguide.com

FEBRUARY 2012
ligence has conservationists worried about the risks to Statia’s environment, both on
land and at sea.
A marine park wraps around the entire five-by-two mile Dutch island. The park,
Puerto Rico
established in 1996, embraces a variety of habitat — calcareous reefs and corals,
volcanic rock with cracks and fissures — inhabited by a diverse array of extraordi-
Cruising Guide
nary sea life that attracts tourists who come here to dive. There’s a sandy plateau on www.freecruisingguide.com
the leeward side where large populations of Queen Conch thrive, and beaches that
provide critical nesting grounds for threatened and endangered sea turtles.
The risk of pollution is palpable, Crowfoot says. She writes that in February 2002, Compliments of: Marina Zar-Par
the calling tanker Paulina dumped its bilges of oil-tainted ballast water, which went
unnoticed until dawn. By that time, the oil had fouled the length of the island and Boca Chica, Dominican Republic

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
polluted the marine park, harbor and shoreline. Nearly ten years later, she says, the www.marinazarpar.com
St. Eustatius National Parks Foundation (Stenapa) has yet to receive restitution for
cleanup of this incident.
A decade earlier, one of the terminal’s 24-inch pipelines ruptured, spilling oil at a
rate of 8,000 barrels an hour and creating a slick some 20 miles long. In fact, there
have been a dozen major tanker spills in the Caribbean — making it a ‘high risk’
area, according to the International Tanker Owner Pollution Federation Limited
(ITOPF). One such incident — a collision between supertankers Atlantic Empress and
Aegean Captain — remains the largest ship-based accident in history. The tankers,
laden with more than a half-million tons of crude, collided off Tobago during a
tropical storm in 1979, killing 26 crew as 287,000 tons of oil spewed and blazed from
the wreckage. This was 40 times the amount of the 2010 Deepwater Horizon spill in
the Gulf of Mexico.
But if the terminal expansion goes ahead, the boost in capacity of roughly 50 per-

PAGE 11
cent will likewise increase the number of visiting vessels, and residents worry haz-
ards on the densely trafficked channels will multiply as well.
Crowfoot reports that currently 800 vessels come to Statia annually to bunker and
obtain fuel. The jetty can accommodate the world’s largest supertankers — up to
520,000 dead weight tonnage — but most remain on moorings and transfer offshore.
About 100 will tie up at the wharf to discharge or take on oil and products.

Where Are All the Sharks?

As the Cayman News Service reported on January 6th, international marine sci-
entists working in the Cayman Islands over the last few years studying local popu-
St. Vincent
lations of sharks and rays have found far fewer species of sharks in local waters & the Grenadines
than they would have expected. Dr. Mauvis Gore revealed that although researchers
have counted 16 different types of sharks and rays the scientists had expected to
see more than a dozen other species in Cayman. Speaking at a special presentation
hosted by the department of the environment, summarizing their work the scien-
tists said there was a strong case for Cayman to introduce protection for sharks in
local waters.
Dr. Gore explained that shark populations are under tremendous pressure all over Phone:
the world as a result of fishing driven by the fin and other shark product trades as
well as for the flesh. Up to 73 million sharks are caught every year, which is why 784-457-2178
“populations are collapsing” and at least 20 of the 360 species worldwide face extinc- 784-456-2640
tion in the next five years. She explained that the loss of sharks threaten ocean eco-
systems as these top predators help maintain healthy reefs.
Over the last three years the experts have not only been counting sharks but have
also tagged some to track the movements of the various species and they found that Fax:
larger species such as tiger sharks or oceanic white tips are covering considerable 784-456-1302
ground. This means that any fishing ban or sanctuary that Cayman establishes to
try and save its sharks will require the co-operation of other countries in the region.
Around the Caribbean so far Mexico, Honduras, the Bahamas and Florida have SHIPYARD REPAIR SERVICES
introduced bans on all or some species of shark fishing. VHF Channel 16 • Covered drydock
Given the importance of economics when it comes to persuading people to act to
save species, he said the case for the tourism dollar that could be generated from • Drydock facilities up to 65M & 1000 tonne
people willing to pay to see and swim with sharks and other mega marine fauna was email: • 40 tonne travel lift
persuasive. But Ormond also noted that a strong population of sharks denotes • Woodwork & metal work
healthy reefs and general marine and beach environments that are important to all ottleyhall • Sand blasting
visitors and residents alike. • Welding, painting, fiberglass
@gmail.com • Electrical, refrigeration & mechanical repairs
Join a ‘Lionfish Derby’ in Carriacou
Lumbadive in Carriacou is offering a weekly “Lionfish Derby”. The dive shop’s co- MARINA SERVICES
owner, Diane Martino, says, “Please join us every Saturday on the second dive of the • 22 berths for yachts from 22M- 65M
afternoon. It is a free dive and you can help us to stop the invasion.” • Electricity & water
For more information visit www.lumbadive.com. • Shower & toilet
 swim ashore mandatory. There is only one winner and on the country’s global image as a sailing destination.

REGATTA
the only prize is the bottle of beer. There is not even a “The BVI has always been known as a good sailing
“committee” to protest to, except at the bar later… destination due to the topography of the islands and
is called the sailing capital of the world,” said the
St. Lucia’s Beth Lygoe at Sailing World Championships Premier. “But with the addition of the yacht club here

NEWS
Beth Lygoe loves surfing, kite boarding and sailing, and the finish of the Transatlantic Superyacht Regatta
and has her own company to teach kiting at Cas en and Maxi Yacht Cup with these beautiful boats in the
Bas, St. Lucia. Beth represented St. Lucia in Laser BVI for the first time, the reputation of sailing in the
Radials in the ISAF Sailing World Championships in islands has been taken to another level altogether
Perth, Australia, held December 3rd through 18th, and I think after this, we can truly say that the BVI is
2011. The Laser Radial is a one-person dinghy; the the sailing capital of the world.”
Grenada Groups Support Carriacou Junior Sailors event was an Olympic qualifier. For more information visit www.yccs.com, www.yccs-
Frank Pearce reports: The Gouyave Sailing Club and Twenty-five of the 29 Olympic spots available at marina.com or www.internationalmaxiassociation.com.
Catfish Boats of Gouyave, Grenada, surprised the Perth 2011 in the Laser Radial were decided following
Carriacou Junior Sailing Club on December 3rd, 2011 the fleet split, leaving four available for Silver fleet PR and USVI Sailors Excel at Orange Bowl Regattas
with an amazing visit. sailors to fight over. Singapore’s Elizabeth Yin, Junior sailors representing Puerto Rico and the US
Portugal’s Sara Carmo, Japan’s Kanako Hiruta and Virgin Islands excelled at both the Orange Bowl
Norway’s Marthe Enger Eide all qualified their nation International Youth Regatta and Open Orange Bowl
after ten races. Regatta, both sailed out of Miami, Florida, December
Beth came close to qualifying St. Lucia in Perth, finish- 27th to 30th, 2011. The Open Orange Bowl Regatta
ing just 14 points behind the Norwegian. With nine of was also the International 420 North
the further 39 spots available at the upcoming World American Championships.
Laser Radial Women’s Championship to be held in Puerto Rico’s Juan Perdomo finished third and the
Germany in May, Beth will have a second chance to USVI’s Ian Barrows ended fourth out of 145 sailors in
qualify for the London 2012 Olympic the Laser Radial Class at the Youth Regatta, in which
Sailing Competition. nearly 500 sailors competed in Lasers, Optimist
For full results visit www.perth2011.com. Dinghies and Club 420s.
Meanwhile, Puerto Rico’s Raul Rios and Fernando
Transatlantic Superyacht Regatta Arrives in BVI Monllor won the 20-boat International 420 Class and
The 2011 Transatlantic Superyacht Regatta & the Virgin Islands’ Nikki Barnes and Agustina Barbuto
Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Cup concluded on finished second in the Open Regatta, in which over 50
sailors competed in International 420s, 29ers and
CJSC members also sail on local workboats like Skyler, Lasers. Interestingly, Rios and Barnes as Caribbean sail-
left, and yachts like Saga, right ors scored the top two slots in the International 420
Class in which the rest of the competitors represented
Out of the blue, Lyndon Harper of Catfish Boats in the USA and Canada.
Gouyave phoned Teena Marie, who runs the CJSC, Winds gusted over 20 knots on Biscayne Bay during
asking her to meet the ferry Amelia in Tyrell Bay. They the first two days of the regatta and dropped to less
PAGE 12

wanted to support sailing in Carriacou by donating than eight knots the final two days of sailing, making
two Mosquito dinghies, which they would deliver to challenging conditions for all sailors.
the ferry. The boats duly arrived and one week later

MERCEDES DE CHOUDENS
the Catfish team — Lyndon Harper, manager and
builder, Roger Adams, coach, and Israel Dhavangit —
arrived from Grenada with more gear including two
spanking-new sets of spars, sails, and sheets, and even
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

new lifejackets. These boats are built in Gouyave,

Grenada, by Catfish Boats and are a Mosquito
licensed class built to a high standard.
This was the first new equipment CJSC had ever
received, except for one new sail received last year. Sir Peter Harrison presents the Transatlantic IMA
“The kids are so excited to have these boats to sail. Challenge Trophy for line honors Captain Vincent
We are planning to take the boats and four young Fauquenoy of Hetairos
sailors to the Grenada Sailing Festival Junior Dinghy
Sailing Championship in February,” said Teena. “It December 4th with the arrival of the final participant Left to right: Fernando Monllor, Agustina Barbuto,
gives them a new incentive for them to train.” and the official prizegiving ceremony, held at the Nikki Barnes and Raul Rios
The Catfish Crew and the young sailors of Carriacou Yacht Club Costa Smeralda’s Caribbean base in
spent the day together at the club in Tyrell Bay sailing Virgin Gorda. The 20-metre X-Yachts X65 Karuba 5 of Full results are available at www.coralreefyachtclub.
in light wind, eating pizza donated by the Lazy Turtle, Croatia took overall victory on corrected time ahead org/Waterfront/orange-Bowl-Regatta/
and learning more about sailing the new boats, and of the 66-metre Baltic Yachts ketch Hetairos in second Orange-Bowl-Results.aspx.
FEBRUARY 2012

how to tune the Mosquito rigs. Teena says, “We place. Tobias Koenig’s British Swan 82, Grey Goose of
appreciate greatly this support from a local club and the RORC took third place overall. St. Lucia Bids Bon Voyage to World ARC 2012-13
business and are hoping to link more and more with Hetairos, which was launched in July 2011, claimed Christy Recaii reports: There are adventures sailors
the Gouyave and other sailing clubs in the future. The line honours having completed her 3,069-mile crossing dream about! And 26 boatloads of sailors will get to
uplift that this has given Carriacou junior sailing from Tenerife in eight days, ten hours, 58 minutes and live the iconic dream over the next 15 months. This is
is invaluable.” 30 seconds at an average speed of just over 15 knots. World ARC, a 26,000-mile sail around the world. The
Meanwhile the Sunday races out of Tyrell Bay contin- The event was organized by the YCCS in collaboration fleet departed Rodney Bay, St. Lucia at noon on
ue. Every fortnight there has been a well attended with the International Maxi Association and saw eight January 8th bound for the San Blas islands of Panama
and sometimes exciting yacht race for the “grown superyachts and maxi yachts participate. in perfect Caribbean sailing conditions of 15 to 20
ups”. The rules are based upon the Keep it Simple At the prizegiving ceremony, Peter Harrison’s Sojana knots of wind.
principal: handicapping, race committee and starting received a special prize for having participated in all In Panama, 1,100 miles away, the fleet will be joined
“guns” have been eliminated. To save some poor soul four editions of the transatlantic race organized by five additional yachts, which will bring the fleet to
having to wait on a committee boat until the last since 2007. 31-strong. They’ll then transit the Panama Canal before
yacht has finished the race, the winner of the day’s Premier of the British Virgin Islands, Dr. Orlando Smith, setting off across the Pacific for Australia, stopping at
race is the yacht that first gets a crewmember ashore, was in attendance and commended the organizers on Pacific islands including Tahiti, Bora Bora and Fiji.
beer in hand. No dinghies allowed and a cooling the success of the event and commented on its impact —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page The 2012 Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race & Civil Aviation officially launched the South Grenada
Some boats will leave the rally in Australia, with more The 2012 Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race Regatta 2012 (SGR). The fourth edition of the SGR
joining for the restart of the second half of the adven- was scheduled to take place on January 21st as this takes place February 23rd to 26th at Le Phare Bleu
ture from Darwin in September 2012. Avoiding the issue of Compass was going to press. Organized by Marina & Boutique Hotel.
troubled areas of the Indian Ocean, the World ARC the Barbados Cruising Club in association with Mount During the Launch Drinks Reception, the top three
route takes in Bali, Cocos Keeling, Mauritius and Gay Rum and The Barbados Tourism Authority, this was winners of the SGR T-shirt Design Contest were
Reunion before enjoying Christmas and New Year’s the 76th anniversary race. To celebrate the inscription announced. The winning designer, Kieran Belfon,
Eve in South Africa. From Cape Town the boats will of Historic Bridgetown and The Garrison on the received EC$1,500 plus four of the “hot off the press”
visit St. Helena before enjoying carnival in Brazil and UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites, and to bring the T-shirts that he kindly gave to his family members who
then heading back into the Caribbean via Grenada sailing race to the people of Barbados, the organizers were there to see him win the award. Second place
to finish in St. Lucia in April 2013. planned to open up the inner basin of the Bridgetown designer Daniela Froehlich, received $1,000 and third
The St. Lucia Tourist Board in collaboration with IGY Careenage to participating yachts and site the place was awarded to Melvon Mitchell winning $500.
Rodney Bay Marina and ARC organizers World Regatta Village in Independence Square. This was the second T-shirt Design Contest and it
Last year’s race saw class records set across the proved very competitive with an almost 75 percent
board. We’ll have a report on this year’s event in next increase in entries from the previous year. The winning
month’s Compass. T-shirt design was selected through a voting process
by the regatta’s Gold Sponsors: Netherlands
South Grenada Regatta This Month! Insurance, Westerhall Estate Limited, North South
The Hon. Peter David, Grenada’s Minister of Tourism Wines, Real Value IGA Supermarket and Le Phare Bleu
Marina & Boutique Hotel.
For more information on the South Grenada Regatta
visit www.southgrenadaregatta.com.

‘David and Goliath’ in RORC Caribbean 600

The 4th RORC Caribbean 600 Race looks set to stage a
David versus Goliath contest on February 20th, with a
number of superyachts keen to do battle with each
other while starting and finishing in Antigua, and circum-
navigating 11 Caribbean Islands between the two lines.
The superyachts entered so far range from 35 metres
Cruising Club play hosts to the start and finish of the (114 feet) to 66 metres (216 feet). As well as racing
event. One of the pre-start activities was the presenta- against comparable boats, they will also vie with a
tion of donations to two local charities, the GroWell formidable fleet of much smaller, but highly competi-
Charity and an orphanage in Gros Islet. ARC 2011 par- tive racing yachts. These include the 2011 Rolex
ticipants had made the monetary collection following Fastnet Race winner Rán, the 2010 Rolex Middle Sea
their stay on the island. A total of EC$2,156 was col- Race winner Lucky, and Privateer, winner of the 2009
lected, which in turn was matched by World Cruising Montego Bay Race.
Club bringing the donation to EC$4,312. The largest yacht in the superyacht fleet is six-

FEBRUARY 2012
In total 39 boats and over 200 people will take part in month old, 66-metre (216-foot) Hetairos, which
World ARC 2012-13, some sailing the full 26,000 miles, recently took line honours in the Transatlantic
others joining for a stage. The largest boat is the Superyacht Regatta from Tenerife to Virgin Gorda in
US-flagged 20.8-metre Discovery 67 Sapphire II, and her inaugural race. Her classic looks and sleek green
the smallest is 11.96-metre Beneteau Oceanis 393 hull may be based on the early 19th century pilot
Glamorous Galah of Australia. The fleet includes five cutters, but as well as being built for comfort with a
catamarans, three of which started in St. Lucia. St. stunning interior, she is an ultra-modern competitive
Lucia is the only destination that will be visited twice in yacht and one of the largest composite sailing
the circumnavigation. yachts in the world. She also boasts the largest com-
For more information South Grenada Regatta 2012 T-shirt design posite standing rigging.
visit www.worldcruising.com/WORLDARC2012. —Continued on next page

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
winner Kieran Belfon

PAGE 13
 —Continued from previous page Budget Marine Match Racing Cup. This annual event, him know where the bottle landed.
Also competing for the Superyacht Class perpetual scheduled this year for February 28th, will serve as the For more information
trophy (awarded along with a keg of rum from North official kick-off to the 32nd edition of the St. Maarten visit www.heinekenregatta.com.
Sails Caribbean) will be Peter Harrison’s magnificent Heineken Regatta, in which racing begins on March
British 35-metre (115-foot) Farr, Sojana. Peter compet- 2nd. Dates Changed for Puerto Rico Heineken Regatta
ed in the Caribbean 600 for the first time last year, fin- Holmberg, who won the first two editions of the Carol Bareuther reports: If anticipation is half the fun,
ishing second in IRC Zero and third Overall. Sojana, Budget Marine Match Racing series, was denied a third then this year’s Puerto Rico Heineken International
skippered by Marc Fitzgerald, has also participated in trip to the winner’s circle last year when he was upset in Regatta should provide double the enjoyment. Due to
all four editions of Transatlantic Superyacht Regatta the finals by New Zealand ace Gavin Brady. “I will defi- an island-wide primary election just announced in the
and won the 2010 race. Their crew for the Caribbean nitely go into the Budget Marine event looking for a first week of January and the subsequent closure of
600 includes one of the race founders in Antigua, win,” he said. “Last year Gavin got the better of us in many businesses due to the vote, the Puerto Rico
John Burnie, and veteran Caribbean sailor and author the finals, so I would like to erase that memory if I can.” Heineken International Regatta will not be held from
Don Street. Eight teams of sailors will once again gather in St. March 16th to 18th.
While Hetairos may be the Goliath amongst the fleet, Maarten to compete for the US$8,000 purse: $5,000 for “We regret any inconvenience this may cause to
David may certainly be the much smaller Austrian the winning team; $2,000 for the runner-up; and $1,000 sailors,” says regatta director, Angel Ayala. “But we
Class40 contender, Vaquita. The yacht was recently for the third-place finishers. But Holmberg said that the want to be able to offer the same high-quality racing
the first across the Atlantic in the RORC Racing Division prize money was only a small part of the attraction in and parties that always attracts competitors from
of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) from Las Palmas competing for the Budget Marine Cup. “The racing is throughout the Caribbean and the world.”
de Gran Canaria to St. Lucia (see story in last month’s held in the Simpson Bay Lagoon to promote spectat- Regatta organizers seek feedback from sailors about
Compass). The highly competitive crew took on the ing, so we are often racing in between moored boats a new date and are tentatively considering the
giants in the ARC fleet arriving in St. Lucia a full 36 and marinas,” he said. “This can make the racing Memorial Day Weekend, May 26th through 28th. The
hours ahead of their nearest competition and fol- quite tricky, but that’s all in the spirit of the event. St. venue, Palmas del Mar, will remain the same.
lowed just behind the 28-metre (91-foot) maxi Med Maarten itself is a very friendly island, which always For more information or to provide feedback, contact
Spirit who took line honours amongst the 217 boat makes for a fun time visiting.” info@prheinekenregatta.com, (787) 413-7702 or 785-2026.
fleet, a few hours shy of the fastest time ever. Vaquita Sailed in identical Jeanneau SunFast 20s with three-
blasted her way across the Atlantic, exceeding 23 person teams, after an initial ten-flight round-robin Developing Les Voiles de Saint-Barth
knots at times during her surfing runs, and managed series, the field is narrowed to a final four that com- As the third edition of Les Voiles de Saint-Barth,
to sustain 18 to 20 in the fresh conditions, covering the pete for the prize money and bragging rights as one scheduled from April 2nd to 7th, draws closer, organiz-
2,800 nautical mile course in just over 12 days; a mag- of the top match racers in the Caribbean. ers continue to engage in a steady development, fol-
nificent feat for a 40-footer. Vaquita’s owner, Christof For more information visit www.heinekenregatta.com.

CHRISTOPHE JOUANNY
Petter, will race with two friends, supported by three
professional sailors, including ex-Volvo Ocean Race Le Pingouin for St. Maarten Heineken Regatta
skipper Andreas Hanakamp who summed up their The St. Maarten Heineken Regatta will celebrate its
thoughts on the Caribbean 600: “So far we have 32nd edition March 1st through 4th, and organizers
mainly been racing against non-Class40 boats, so we are pleased to see that Brad Van Liew has entered his
are looking forward to lining up with some equal Open 60, Le Pingouin, which has recently undergone
boats to figure out where we are standing. The a one million USD refit. Capable of sustained speeds
Caribbean 600 is very attractive for us as it is a mid- of over 25 knots and a top speed to date of 38 knots,
PAGE 14

winter event with the world’s best and most famous this will be one of the participants to keep an eye on.
racing yachts competing. We look forward to the Brad Van Liew, owner and skipper of the boat, is the
Race as it has lots of reaching predicted, something a only American to race around the world three times,
Class40 is best at.” of which he has won two of those races. Recently,
For more information visit http://caribbean600.rorc.org. while crossing the Equator during his solo challenge of
circling the globe under sail, Brad sent his daughter a
Holmberg Seeks Third Title in Budget message in a bottle, which she had requested he do
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Marine Match Cup for her so that someday she would know where it trav- lowing on from the success of the previous two edi-
Virgin Islands sailing legend Peter Holmberg — the eled. Amazingly nine months and 2,000 miles later that tions, with the same goal in mind: to offer sailors from
only Caribbean sailor to win both an Olympic Medal bottle turned up on the shores of St. Maarten, on a around the yachting world maximum enjoyment out
and the America’s Cup — will return to St. Maarten beach in Guana Bay, and was found by a seven- on the water and ashore.
this month to compete in the fourth running of the year-old second-grader, who contacted Brad to let —Continued on next page
FEBRUARY 2012
—Continued from previous page

WILFRED DEDERER
With the support of their faithful partners, the organiz-
ers are doing their utmost to ensure that as many sail-
ors as possible will be able to take advantage of the
exceptional sailing conditions on offer in the magical
setting of St. Barth.
Gavin Brady, tactician on Vesper, says, “What I like in
particular are the conditions you can find here. You
battle against the wind and the sea around the
island, but you also encounter a lot of very pleasant
downwind sailing at more than 20 knots. Everything
here is very balanced.”
For more information see ad on page 12.

New Sponsor for Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta

The Bequia Sailing Club reports that regional banking
and investment group First Citizens has been wel-
comed on board as a Premier Sponsor of the 2012
Bequia Heineken Easter Regatta (April 5th through
9th) with Easter Friday’s full day of races and its daily
prizegiving exclusively assigned to them.
With Heineken as Title Sponsor and exclusive sponsors
of Easter Monday’s yacht races, the Single-Handed
Race and two of the local double-ender races, First
Citizens joins longstanding regatta Premier Sponsors
Mount Gay Rum and the SVG Tourism Authority, and
major sponsors United Insurance, Mountain Top Water,
the Frangipani Hotel and the Bequia Beach Hotel in
offering generous support to Bequia’s internationally
renowned event. Hot racing and a small island feel — Bequia Easter Regatta’s winning combination
Despite Easter’s late date in 2011, Bequia saw a sur-
prisingly healthy turnout, and all the signs are that with “Surprise” boats from Martinique — it’s no “surprise” William Fife Ketch that resided in Antigua for many
Easter 2012 ideally timed for many cruisers, this year that the Bequia Sailing Club is looking forward to yet years, and has been rebuilt by Panerai, in Italy: she will
will see a 50-plus entry for yachts. another record turnout for 2012. be featured with a welcome party as well as displays
Bequia’s specially designed series of six races for the For more information and exhibits in and around the dockyard and marina
J/24 Class, including the United Insurance J/24 3-Race visit www.begos.com/easterregatta. before and during the regatta.
Challenge on Easter Saturday, and the award of the There are quite a few schooners in port this year, and
J/24 Southern Caribbean Champion Trophy to Enter Now: Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta we could be looking at a great schooner race. If you

FEBRUARY 2012
Bequia’s overall J/24 winner, ensures that this is the The 25th Anniversary of the Antigua Classic Yacht are entering a boat enter early, as free dockage is
one event that is able to attract J/24s from every Regatta will be held from April 19th through 24th. limited to those boats that are paid-up entries before
nation in the region. Preparations are being made to ensure that this year’s April 1st.
Although much increased in size and status, for 31 regatta is the best ever. Several new sponsors, includ- The Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta Program is now
years the Bequia Easter Regatta has never lost its ing San Pellegrino, have come onboard with Panerai, available online.
unique small island appeal. The sight of at least 30 Mount Gay Rum, Ondeck, Portland Yacht Services, For more information visit www.antiguaclassics.com.
locally built sprit-rigged double-ender boats compet- Lunenburg Shipyard Alliance and local partners. The
ing with legendary skill on the same waters as 50 to 60 Sail Maine party sponsored by several businesses from Sunsail Gold Sponsor of Antigua Sailing Week
yachts of all shapes and sizes, has no equal. And with Maine will be a highlight, as well as the Singlehanded Antigua Sailing Week has announced Sunsail as
yacht races for Racing, Cruising I (CSA rated) and Race, and the Concours d’Elegance sponsored by Gold Sponsor for its 2012 event, to run from April 29th
Cruising II (liveaboards and “fun” competitors), and the Lunenburg Shipyard Alliance. through May 4th.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
the two One Design Classes — J/24s and the The feature event will see the return of Eilean, the —Continued on next page

THE DIFFERENCE IS
what we do and the way we do it.
AMENITIES
• Professional and Courteous Staff • Complementary Cable TV

PAGE 15
• 282 Fixed Slips and Wi-Fi
• Wide Concrete Finger Piers • Water and Electricity
• On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel • Restrooms and Showers
Delivered on all Slips except • Laundry Facilities
on Dock “A” • Nearby Ship's Chandlery and
• Safety, Cleanliness and Service Convenience Store
is our Primary Concern • Near Small Eateries and Upscale
is a tradition, in family boating
boating...
... • Whole Area Patrolled by
24 Hour Security
Elegant Restaurants such as
El Conquistador Hotel and Casino
• Camera Surveillance • US Custom and Immigration
• Official Cruising Station Located 1/2 mile Away by Dinghy
of SSCA • Ample Parking

Join us today
and be part of our family.
¡VISIT US! at Fajardo,
our webpage www.sunbaymarina.com
or at the Administration Office at the Marina,
open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm

T: 787.863.0313
F: 787.863.5282
E: sunbaymarina@aol.com
Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera,
Fajardo, Puerto Rico

Close to:
 —Continued from previous page the racing calendar for many years; their commit- Sailing Week officially begins. It will be open to all
With its continuing commitment to support sailing at ment and future plans to further develop this event yachts, whether entered in Antigua Sailing Week
every level, and with the recent launch of the new are very much in line with our strategy, which makes or not.
Sunsail Racing product range, Sunsail is a perfect fit this a natural partnership. We are extremely excited For more information visit www.sailingweek.com.
with Antigua Sailing Week. Simon Conder, Head of to be a part of the plans and to be able to support
Marketing for Sunsail said, “Antigua Sailing Week has this leading sailing event into the future.” Mount Gay in May: Barbados’s Top Regatta
undoubtedly been one of the ‘must do’ events on Now in its 45th year, Antigua Sailing Week is held The Barbados Mount Gay Regatta 2012 will be held
May 17th through 20th, in the waters of Carlisle Bay

TIM WRIGHT / WWW.PHOTOACTION.COM

and the south and west coasts of Barbados, under the
ISAF Racing Rules of Sailing 2009–2012.
There will be Racing and Cruising Classes, and one-
design classes for Melges 24s and J/24s. The Current
CSA Rating Rule will apply to Racing A and B, and
Cruising A Classes. A local rating will be used for
Cruising Class B.
For more information on the Barbados Mount Gay
Regatta visit www.sailbarbados.com.
For more information on all Mount Gay-sponsored
events see ad on page 17.

Cuban Yacht Club’s 20th Anniversary Regatta

On behalf of the officers and members of
Hemingway International Yacht Club of Cuba (HIYC),
Commodore José Miguel Diaz Escrich extends an invi-
tation to the international nautical community to visit
Cuba during this winter and spring season, and espe-
cially to participate in the activities celebrating the
20th anniversary of HIYC, which was founded on May
21st, 1992.
One of the highlights will be the 20th Anniversary of
Hemingway International Yacht Club of Cuba
Regatta, on April 27th. The 18-mile course will run from
the Almendares River to El Morro Castle of Havana,
and then to Marina Hemingway. The leg parallel to
Havana’s famous Malecón seaside walk will allow the
people of Havana to enjoy the sailing show.
The race is open to all cruising boats and there is no
registration fee. HIYC of Cuba is located in Marina
PAGE 16

Hemingway, at the west end of Havana. While you

are in Marina Hemingway, you will enjoy the same
benefits as club members, as well as receiving infor-
mation and assistance regarding any cruising you wish
to make in Cuban waters, including the necessary
The legendary Antigua Sailing Week provides annually starting on the last Sunday in April and end- coordination with the Cuban port authorities.
ing the following Friday. It offers five days of racing off Even if you cannot participate in the race, you are
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

world-class competition in spectacular conditions

the south coast of Antigua, with courses suitable for invited to the gala festivities that will be held on May
racing sailors of all levels. 21st at the HIYC of Cuba!
For 2012, Antigua Sailing Week announces the return For more information contact Commodore Escrich at
of the Yachting World Round Antigua Race, which will yachtclub@cnih.mh.tur.cu.
take place on April 28th, the day before Antigua
FEBRUARY 2012
JANUARY 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17
 S
AT ION
TIN
DES

Practical Tips and

Responsible Cruising in
Panama’s Kuna Yala
by Nadine Slavinski
PAGE 18
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

It’s no longer off the beaten track, but the San Blas islands aren’t the Virgins either

No longer off the beaten track, the Kuna Yala — bet- the West Lemon Cays, a well-protected anchorage close or avoid the main draws of the western San Blas
ter known as the San Blas islands — is now a well- to the region’s administrative center on the island of El (Chichime, East and West Lemon Cays, Cayos Holandés,
established cruising ground on Panama’s Caribbean Porvenir. Some sailors are just passing through, while and the Coco Banderos). These popular places draw so
FEBRUARY 2012

coast. What’s the big attraction? Idyllic anchorages many others are passing time — lots of it! many visitors because they offer idyllic conditions and
protected by palm-lined islets; hurricane-free, year- Social Life or Solitude? clear water, while the reefs of the eastern San Blas can
round sailing; plus the fascinating indigenous culture It’s not uncommon to find cruisers who remain in be trickier to navigate in more limited visibility.
of the Kuna people. The destination has been well- this island paradise for months, even years. It’s an What To Bring
covered by the sailing press in recent years, but arti- interesting, international bunch, with an active and Panama uses the US dollar as its official currency,
cles sharing practical advice for cruising the region are helpful SSB cruiser’s net that “meets” each morning but there are no ATMs in the region, so bring lots of
few and far between. This article will help you maxi- with a weather report, position check-ins, and news cash in small bills. Paying the Panama cruising permit
mize your enjoyment of the San Blas area and mini- (tune in to 8107 at 08:30). My husband Markus, our fee of $193 (in cash only) will take a big bite out of your
mize any inconvenient surprises. son Nicky and I were a little overwhelmed by the social reserves. The good news is that cruising permits are
Thinking of heading for some of the best cruising in aspect of the net (announcing yoga sessions, book now valid for one year and issued on the spot in El
the world? A few words of caution. First of all, the swaps, and barbecues), but grateful for the practical Porvenir. You can also expect to pay an Immigration
secret is out: popular anchorages in the western San information the experienced cruisers could share: fee ($30 for a crew of four) and a fee to the autonomous
Blas islands shelter a dozen or more yachts at a time. where to find supplies, procedures for the Panama Kuna government ($20 per yacht and $2 per person);
Upon arrival aboard S/V Namani, our 35-foot Dufour Canal, and so on. If you want solitude, head for the all these offices share one building on El Porvenir.
sloop, we gaped at finding 37 boats clustered just in eastern San Blas, an area less frequented by outsiders, —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page (exquisitely appliquéd fabric panels that are extremely camps of one or two huts. Villagers come out in shifts
In addition, you can expect to pay a $10 monthly popular souvenirs) without violating cultural norms. of a few weeks to fish and tend the coconuts; some will
charge in the most popular anchorages. This fee is In some places, cultural traditions have already also visit yachts to sell their catch or molas.
periodically collected by a local Kuna representative. faded: in Nargana or Wichubhuala, women wear nor- Molas
It’s a well-regulated system: the collector will show you mal western wear instead of the traditional mola, and What exactly is a mola? It is an intricately sewn cloth
an official document confirming his authority to thatched roofs are gradually giving way to corrugated- panel that was originally designed as the midriff sec-
charge the fee, and give you an official receipt as proof iron. Other towns follow the old ways, but remember, tion of a woman’s blouse; hence, they are usually
of payment. these are not open-air museums, but living communi- about 15 by 12 inches in size. Patterns are made in
In addition to bringing lots of cash, you should also ties, so consider what impact your presence will have.
come prepared with charts of the region and the out- Some cruisers avoid traditional towns all together for
standing Panama Cruising Guide by Eric Bauhaus fear of intruding on local ways. While the Kuna are
(including detailed charts and reliable waypoints). extremely polite and tolerant, you should reciprocate
You should also come stuffed to the gills with provi- with your best behavior if you do choose to visit. Dress
sions. There are only three places to buy supplies in modestly and don’t even think about snapping a photo
the western portion of the island group: Wichubhuala without asking for permission (which will usually be
(just a dinghy ride away from El Porvenir), Carti, and denied). Only the younger Kuna members speak
Nargana (the latter two are islands immediately off the Spanish; the older generation speaks the indigenous
mainland). These towns have bakeries and small Kuna language: start with a friendly Na (hello) and
shops that stock a very limited selection of canned Nuede (thank you). The outer islands are not perma-
goods and bottled water. Finding fresh produce or nently inhabited, but many are dotted with small Kuna
meat can be difficult at times. Local fishermen will
come around with their catch ($2 bought us a good-
sized tuna), and a fresh-produce boat also visits popu-
lar anchorages periodically. However, their schedule is
unreliable and the pickings are sometimes slim (the
entire selection one week was potatoes and eggs; at
best, the vendor will carry a variety of vegetables as The reverse-appliquéd and embroidered panels called
well as chicken). Many cruisers monitor VHF channel molas are the quintessential Kuna craft
72 and will announce a sighting of the elusive produce
man with the excitement of an old-time whaler hailing
out a distant spout. Unfortunately, the produce man
isn’t as enterprising as the mola makers, some of
whom paddle great distances to visit anchorages on a deft appliqué techniques and range from traditional
daily basis, rain or shine (more on molas below). geometric designs to representations of animals or
Trash Matters people, finished off with embroidered detail. All molas
Trash is a major problem, so think ahead when pro- are eye-catching, but if you are in the market for a nice
visioning and establish a way to compact your trash piece, examine each carefully. Check how straight the
on board until you can properly dispose of it. There are edges are (none are perfectly straight since they are

FEBRUARY 2012
no reliable places to deposit trash in the Kuna Yala. made by hand while held on the lap) and examine the
NEVER give your trash to locals who promise to dis- reverse side to see how tightly spaced the stitches are
pose of it properly, only to dump it into the sea around (small, close stitches are a sign of good workmanship).
the next corner. There’s nothing sadder than the sight Molas cost from about $10 up; the more detail, the
of wrappers and plastic bottles floating through the more expensive.
otherwise pristine waters of this stunning archipelago. The Kuna are generally a gentle and kind people,
Much of the debris comes from the mainland, where and security issues are rare. However, instances of
the sea is seen as a fair dumping ground (and it was, petty theft and even armed robbery have been reported
back in the days when the only trash generated was off larger villages such as Nargana, where it pays to
coconut husks and fish bones). Long-term cruisers take sensible precautions. In the outer islands, we felt
dump cans and glass into deep water, where they will very safe and didn’t take our usual precaution of hoist-

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
eventually corrode; burn papers (do so only with per- ing the dinghy on deck at night.
mission from the local Kuna); and collect plastics until Navigation
they visit a place outside the region with established Navigational challenges in this reef-strewn archipel-
trash-handling procedures. Even then, the “best” to ago are considerable: don’t trust your GPS blindly and
hope for is that your trash ends up incinerated or in stick to principal reef approaches, which are well
landfill: Panama has no recycling program to speak of. described in the Bauhaus book. Reports of rough
It’s a sobering, worldwide issue. groundings are a weekly news item on the morning
Kuna Culture net; occasionally, boats even sustain enough damage
There are many beautiful cruising grounds around to be declared a total loss. Don’t let this island para-
the globe, but this area is unique thanks to the pres- dise lure you into letting your guard down!
ence of the indigenous Kuna people. The Kuna are a Transportation
folk under pressure of outside influences: this means It is possible to receive visitors or pick up crew once
you. The Congreso, their well-organized, self-governing you are in the region. The easiest way is for incoming
body, seeks to protect Kuna culture with a number of friends to book a puddle-jump flight from Panama

PAGE 19
laws that you should inform yourself of. The basics are City to El Porvenir. However, the “airport” there is
that outsiders are forbidden to touch coconuts or pick really just an airstrip; don’t expect any staff to sell
fruit growing on the islands; scuba diving and power- you a ticket on the spot. This airstrip was closed for
driven water sports like water-skiing are banned, as is repairs in December 2011 and expected to re-open in
public nudity; and you must not buy under-sized fish, March 2012. It is also possible to reach the airport in
lobster, or octopus from local fishermen. The Kuna Panama City via local lancha (a local power boat to
Congreso has also banned certain casual trade goods, Carti) and jeep in roughly five hours for about $50
including magazines and nail polish, innocent as they per person.
might seem. Rather than offering your new friends Some cruisers sail 50 miles west to Portobelo, where
these intrusive items, bring a supply of quilting nee- Dugout canoes are still the vehicle of choice there are frequent, easy-to-use buses to Panama City
dles and thimbles instead. This gesture will win over for the Kuna people (two to three hours).
local women who spend hours sewing masterful molas —Continued on next page
 —Continued from previous page
This is also a good place to make a major provi-
sioning run: Portobello has a well-sheltered
anchorage, an ATM, a few small food stores, and
buses which will bring you directly to the large El
Rey supermarket in Sabanitas in one hour (depart-
ing roughly every half hour; $1.30 one way). If you
need tips on how to arrange such things, just ask
on the cruiser’s net and you will get excellent,
specific advice (long-term cruisers seem to keep
giant rolodexes of helpful local contacts).
Sabanitas is also the closest place to buy a
Panamanian SIM card for your phone, though
top-up cards may be found in the small Kuna Yala
shops. Some San Blas islands even have public
phones, which are listed in the Bauhaus cruising
guide. The nearest marina to the San Blas area is
Green Turtle Cay, 35 miles east of El Porvenir,
with water and power but poor road connections.
For an extended cruise in the San Blas islands, it
goes without saying that your boat must be
entirely self-sufficient in terms of power and
water.
No matter where you point your bow, it’s impor-
tant to plan ahead and be prepared. This is espe-
cially true in a remote, fragile region such as the
Kuna Yala. So stock up, head out, and cruise
responsibly in one of the most rewarding cruising
grounds of the Caribbean.

Nadine Slavinski is the author of Lesson Plans

Ahoy: Hands-On Learning for Sailing Children
and Home-Schooling Sailors
— see www.sailkidsed.net.

Clockwise from below:

A local fisherman in his canoe glides by yachts
at anchor
PAGE 20

Routes into the San Blas as shown in Zydler’s The

Panama Guide, another useful resource
A Kuna boy heads home after a swim
ZYDLER / THE PANAMA GUIDE
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
FEBRUARY 2012

1984 Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre

Since
BAREBOAT CHARTERS - FULLY CREWED CHARTERS - ASA SAILING SCHOOL
• Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Raymarine Electronics • Refrigeration Work
• Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Fibreglass Repairs • Laundry
• Vehicle Rentals • Showers • Air Travel
• Ice & Water • Diesel & Propane • Moorings
• Island Tours • Surftech Surf Shop • Hotel Reservations
• Quiksilver Surf Wear • Restaurant & Bar • Boutique
• On-site Accommodation • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Book Exchange
PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies
Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238
barebum@vincysurf.com www.barefootyachts.com
 Grenada’s
Boxing Day
Music Jam
by Hope O’Hara

Clockwise from left:

Caroline from Petit Fleur playing didgeridoo
De Big Fish Singers
Urs, also from Petit Fleur, on guitar

FEBRUARY 2012
What do you mean, a didgeridoo isn’t part of your holiday tradition? How
about a mandolin or a banjo? No? Perhaps a sax or a reggae band? If not,
you aren’t celebrating the holidays in Grenada.
Holidays are all about tradition; gathered family and friends, gaily-lit trees,
seasonal music.
Cruisers, often far from home and family have learned to make their own
traditions to welcome the holidays. Sometimes this means a wreath on the
bowsprit or caroling in dinghies, it always means food and fun with friends,
old and new.
In Grenada we celebrate Christmas with a new/old tradition — new in that

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
it is different from landlife, and old in that this tradition is in its fourth year:
a veritable lifetime in cruiser years. This year marked the fourth time cruisers
gathered on Boxing Day (a holiday previously unknown to many of us) for a
potluck dinner and music.
Back in 2008, Bela and Martin of S/V Merlin organized the first jam, held
at Whisper Cove Marina. At that time, their son Adam was just beginning his
guitar studies. This year, Adam fronted the backing band, and his Dad
accompanied him on sax.
In 2009, the jam moved to De Big Fish Restaurant at Spice Island Marine
in Prickly Bay. Cruisers bring dishes to share, along with their musical
instruments and voices. Not only does the food reflect the many cultures
represented in the cruising community, so does the variety of instruments.
This year we heard an Australian didgeridoo played by Caroline of the Swiss-
flagged Petit Fleur, followed by a flute and sax duet performed by Sue (of
Spruce) and Gavin (of Secret Smile). Pete and Courtney from Norna brought a

PAGE 21
little mountain music our way and Samantha (Msichana) cooled things down
with a little jazz clarinet. We had guitar and hand drums, singers and danc-
ers, sea shanties and show tunes, and as a finale, the staff and crew of De
Big Fish did a couple of reggae numbers, joined by nearly all in the audience. Above: Gavin from Secret Smile
All told, over 25 musicians wielding ten different instruments shared their on sax
talents with over 100 holiday revelers.
We want to give a big shout out to Rikky and Kim from De Big Fish for Right: Courtney and Pete from
organizing and hosting the Boxing Day Jam, and to Gylfi and Jomo, popular Norna added that ‘high lonesome
local musicians who sorted the musical portion of the day. sound’
Make the Grenada Boxing Day Jam a part of your holiday tradition — you
won’t want to miss it.

Sunsail Come rediscover the magic of Saint Vincent…

Marine
Centre
* Full Service Marina * Showers * “Green Flash” Bar
* Mini Market * Car Rental * Book Exchange
* Free WiFi * Dive Centre * Laundry
* A/C Power 110/220 * Sail Loft/Canvas Shop * Mooring Balls
* Fuel Dock * Beach Bar
PO Box 133, Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent, West Indies
Tel: 1 784 458 4308
sunsailsvg@vincysurf.com
Fax: 1 784 456 8928
www.sunsail.com …your one stop marine centre in the Grenadines
 Plenty to Celebrate
PAYS is an organization of yacht service personnel, tour guides, restaurateurs, a dive
shop operator, and transportation managers who set up the association early in the
last decade to provide security for the yachtsmen and women who visit Portsmouth and
Prince Rupert Bay in Dominica. The association counts among its assets their grand

in Prince Rupert Bay, new building, ten or so new moorings, and the cooperative goodwill of its members.
Although there are easily enough PAYS members in yacht services boats to provide
daytime safety for yachts and visitors, both the profits from the barbecue and the low

Dominica mooring fees are used to subsidize overnight patrols of the beach and anchorage area.
They use a large red inflatable with a quiet, beefy engine, run by paid staff. We noticed

Yacht Security Group

Rings in New Year in New Building
by Laurie Corbett

Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, is becoming our favourite anchorage.

Although the Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security (PAYS) have been holding
their in-season weekly charity barbecues for some time now, we were lucky enough
to be on hand for the milestone of their first New Year’s Party in their new structure,
completed last season.
PAGE 22

Chef Staford Joseph on barbecue patrol

the high-powered flashlight often during the nights of our stay in this well-sheltered
bay. Although we are aware that there is reasonable safety throughout the Windwards
and Leewards with a few exceptions, we also know how good it is to truly feel safe. This
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

is the place for that, and apparently we don’t pay anything extra for it, on an island
that charges only EC$5 per person to check in (a little more on weekends).
These PAYS boat drivers, who compete in a gentlemanly manner for business on
the water, are also a hardworking team at the barbecues. The majority of members
of the PAYS group are those we normally refer to as “boat boys”, although certainly
they all are in or approaching middle age. These are intelligent, reliable, honest busi-
nessmen, getting most of their business from the charterers and mega-yachts in our
midst, but providing appropriate services at appropriately economic prices to serve
the live-aboard and seasonal cruiser. I guess you can tell I’m a fan.
Yachtie magnet: the new PAYS barbecue and facilities building at Portsmouth The Dominican National Development Corporation, now known as Discover
Dominica Authority, began providing training to these young men 20 years ago, and
now ensures that those who carry their guiding credentials take a refresher course
every two years. Such things as CPR and first aid, public relations, Dominican his-
In all, 62 yachters were in attendance for the event, which included perfectly sea- tory and culture, Dominican nature and professional guiding are covered. An exam
FEBRUARY 2012

soned and barbecued chicken, great volumes of salads and rice dishes, a few heart- and minimum pass is part of every refresher to ensure a reasonable minimum stan-
felt but short speeches, a disc jockey who knows his business, and an apparently dard. With government support, these young men organized as the Indian River Tour
endless supply of rum punch. A note about the punch: although it was explained Guides Association, although it appears more business is done under the new PAYS
that the types of juices vary with the seasons, I can vouch for the uniquely delicious organization, with the larger Portsmouth membership. These days, the organization
taste on the last day of the year. Let me assure you that it is not innocent, and coordinates service delivery, raises the money to provide the security, and even car-
indeed can be very dangerous. ries out annual meetings and van tours to promote a high minimum standard of
The attendees met old friends and made new, and most likely will be back next New service delivery by their members.
Year’s Eve. —Continued on next page

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W W W. YA C H T- T R A N S P O R T. C O M • 1 8 8 8 S H I P D Y T
—Continued from previous page Local and distant hikes
Long gone are the “feeding frenzies” that used to occur when a new yacht was For those who want more local guided hiking, you can ask about the Indian River
seen approaching. Today you will be approached by a lone PAYS member, and, after Source hike, starting at the town dock. Although doable without a guide, you may
welcoming you to Dominica, he will offer assistance in many areas. You can accept
his offer of assistance, or let him know you have a different guide in mind, or let
him know you don’t need any assistance; any of which will be received with good
will and understanding.
Chris Doyle’s Leeward Islands cruising guide provides a most complete coverage of
these men and the services available, and great advice on how to get the most of this
anchorage. Indeed, it is a necessary read with advice and cautions. Still, here is a
quick overview. As the services vary in so many ways, most fees have to be negoti-
ated for the specific conditions.
Mooring or anchoring
A guide will show you the area that is patrolled by PAYS. He will offer you one of
the economical moorings maintained by the association (with the fees supporting the
security effort). He can also escort you to areas of good holding in the depth you
prefer if you wish to anchor.
Water taxi
After you have anchored, the guide will offer to drive you in his fast, dry boat the
long distance to the Customs dock, and wait while you are cleared in through the
recently simplified Customs procedure. He is also available by radio and phone for
any trips into and out of town, and can provide a ride back and forth to dinner
ashore that is quite superior to that of most dinghies.

Bounty, one of the more experienced Indian River Guides, visiting us aboard

miss some of the natural attributes, including a pretty nice swimming hole. A second
offering is the Chaudiere Pool hike, which includes transportation to the east side of
the island to start.
Inland Tours
For singles, couples, or vanloads (make sure you specify if you want a private tour),

FEBRUARY 2012
the guides can take you to many interesting places, depending mostly on how much
time you wish to be in a van. Their recommended trips include the complete island
day tour; the north island tour with a dormant volcano, herb gardens, and scenic
vistas; and the Syndicate Rain Forest (includes a significant hiking portion).
Snorkelling
The guides will take you to the marine park on both sides of the Cabrits, to a sea
fan garden near Rollo Head, or a reef in Toucari Bay.
Scuba
Contact with Cabrits Dive Centre can be arranged for some unique deep
Dominican dives.
Laundry

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
The guides will pick up and deliver your laundry. It is advisable to verify the total
price, not the unit price, of laundry services.
Garbage Collection
Municipal rules no longer allow garbage bins or tips along the roads except on
Sixty-two happy yachties gather at supper in the new building to ring in the New Year garbage day. It makes for much cleaner streets in Portsmouth, but it means you pay
a PAYS member a small fee to take and store your garbage until the appropriate day.
Some non-PAYS personnel have been causing trouble with yacht garbage of late, so
take care.
Access to land taxis General Information
If you need a taxi to a specific location, such as the airport, the guide can, with a The guide will provide general Portsmouth information, including buses, restau-
phone call, ensure you get served promptly. rants, rentals, dinghy docks and dinghy safety, and direct access to the commercial
Indian River tours laundry services, for examples.
The specialty of the anchorage, this tour is provided for singles, couples, and boat- Note that not all service providers on the water are PAYS members, and among the
loads. You are rowed up a narrow estuary that was used as the swamp scene in the non-members are both some good and some problematic persons. The PAYS guide

PAGE 23
Pirates of the Caribbean film, while your guide points out the flora and fauna that can provide advice in this area as well.
makes it unique. If organized beforehand, it can include a guided nature hike beyond
the navigable waters. Laurie Corbett and his wife, Dawn, are cruising the Caribbean aboard Cat Tales.
 CARIBBEAN VOYAGING

Dumb Line
that provide the desired horsepower from a “smaller package”.
Why are we in such a rush to get where we are headed? Perhaps it is
time or the shortage of it. Many of us are part-time cruisers and the time
we have is admittedly limited. If your time is so limited that you need to
get everywhere quickly, perhaps you need to reevaluate your commit-

Cruising
ment to sailing. There are many happy power cruisers.
The Caribbean, however, has all the ingredients necessary for a good
sail. We have the tradewinds and reasonable distances between most
destinations. We can utilize what we have rather than say, “We will sail
next time,” when the wind is stronger, or lighter, or more favorable.
by Frank Virgintino Every time we do that is one less time that we challenge ourselves to
sail. A broad reach in good sea conditions and with just the right
Before the advent of chartplotters and GPS, standard equipment for amount of wind is not something that happens very often.
cruising boats was a paper chart, parallel rulers and a few pencils. To We read of cruisers such as the Smeetons, the Roths or even today’s
prepare for a cruise, you would plot your course(s) calculating dis- Pardeys and it does not take long to realize that they are excellent sail-
tances and anticipated speed. ors and that they rely little on their engines. In the case of the Pardeys,
With an eye to the weather and an understanding of what currents they do not even have an engine. I have always wanted to ask Fatty
one might encounter, a rhumb line was drawn on the chart. It was Goodlander how much he uses his engine but I am not sure that he has
understood that one would try to follow the course as best as one could one either. Knowing how frugal he is I would not be surprised if he has
and that one could tack if necessary or “sail higher” to discount any set rigged up an exercise machine for his wife, Carolyn, that connects to
and drift that might be encountered. the propeller shaft, which explains why when he is coming into an
Along the way the charted course would be updated through Dead anchorage Carolyn is rarely seen on deck (too busy pedaling).
Reckoning, and then crosschecked by visual aids, radar, and whatever Of course we assuage our consciences and say we had the engine on
other means were available. No one ever gave any thought to actually because we needed to charge the batteries and keep the beer cold!
“sailing the rhumb line.” Truth is, we turn that engine on much too often and most of us do it
today at the flip of a switch — the chartplotter and autopilot switch!
The root of the problem is “rhumb line cruising”. Most times you can-
not sail between point A and point B. To cruise under sail, you must
have patience and you must have allotted enough time. When you plan
your cruise it is not wise to add up the amount of miles you need to
cover and divide by seven knots to determine how much time you will
You now see many boats with their need. If anything, you should double the miles that you believe you
have to cover and then multiply by four or five the amount of time you
PAGE 24

believe you will need. This way you will allow for adverse winds and
mainsail in tight and the motor engaged… days without wind. You must also allow for the need to tack to reach
your destination under sail. (You haven’t forgotten what tacking is,
have you?)
it seems as if ‘getting there’ Rhumb Line cruising is Dumb Line cruising because it robs you of
your connection to the sea and the art of sailing. For most of us, a very
big part of cruising is enjoying the art of sailing and having the ability
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

to make port under sail using the elements of Mother Nature to work
has become more important than sailing in our favor to get us there. What difference does it make if we get in
one day or even a few days later than we planned?
There are stories of Don Street, the Dean of Caribbean cruising, being
within a mile or two of port and not being willing to “hook up” his old
outboard to power in. Before someone draws the conclusion that I am
a diehard who refuses to turn on the engine, I can assure you that that
Rh
Rhumb b llines are reference
f llines and
d NOT sailing
l llines!! Th f tto the
They refer th is not the case. What I am saying is that all of us can get into a rut.
course you plotted and not necessarily to how you sail your boat. One of the most frequent ruts I see today is sailors setting a rhumb line
As time went by, more and more chartplotters and autopilots came (dumb line) course and doing whatever is necessary to follow it. It has
into use and more and more cruising boats began to plot a course and been a very long time since I have heard the order go to the helmsman
then interface it with their autopilot. “If we could only stay on the red to sail “full and by”.
line, we would be fine!” says the Dumb Line Cruiser. I have often written that we need to get off the “beaten track” and
As a result you now see many boats with their mainsail in tight and discover new areas when we are cruising. We must also stay conscious
FEBRUARY 2012

the motor engaged, making good their course on the rhumb line. It of how we do it as well.
seems as if “getting there”, wherever “there” is, has become more If you enjoy making a landfall as much as the next cruising
important than what most cruising boats were designed for: SAILING! sailor, imagine how much more you will enjoy it if you arrive there
Manufacturers have been installing ever-larger motors into what had under sail.
been heretofore “auxiliary cruisers”, so that many sailboats today may
actually be classified as motor-sailers. To provide more power, many Frank Virgintino is the author of Free Cruising Guides
sailboat diesel engines are often short-stroke, high-compression engines (www.freecruisingguide.com).

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After Sale
Service
 mated to carry 40 percent of all cocaine and heroin that enters the US. This traffic
takes place in almost every island state or colony, and even some government leaders
TIME CAPSULE have been implicated. The amount of drug money in circulation and the ensuing
corruption is immense. The US sees the trade in drugs, as well as illegal immigra-

THE CHANGING tion, as a threat to its national security. To stop the trade, the US has put tremen-
dous pressure on the Caribbean nations to permit unlimited access to their airspace
and territorial waters in pursuit of drug dealers. This agreement, the “Shiprider
Agreement”, is seen by some of the United States’ small neighbors as recolonization.
Barbados and Jamaica refused for a long time to sign on.
We were once stopped during the night outside St. Lucia by a joint US/St. Lucia

FACE OF THE coast guard patrol boat. They shone large lights on us and asked our business, but
never boarded.
Tourism
Tourism for many Caribbean islands is the largest foreign currency earner and
sometimes also the biggest employer. Before Castro, Cuba was by far the region’s

CARIBBEAN largest tourist destination. Now Puerto Rico and the Bahamas are the biggest desti-
nations, followed by Jamaica. In the much smaller Lesser Antilles, Barbados is the
largest destination.
Caribbean nations used to fear that Cuba would export its revolution, as happened
in Grenada from 1979 to 1983. Now, however, their fear is of a normalization
between the US and Cuba. When that happens, the whole Caribbean will hear a big
sucking sound as the tide of American tourism suddenly turns toward Cuba.
Another fear is the staggering increase in the cruiseship industry during the last
decade. Almost ten million people a year now take a Caribbean cruiseship holiday,
by Lars Hassler about the same as the number of tourists arriving by air. Most islands have built look-
alike duty free ports for the cruiseship passengers. One of the most frequented destina-
As we approach the 200th edition of Caribbean Compass, which will be published tions is St. Thomas in the US Virgin Islands, where on some days there can be six or
in May 2012, we take the opportunity to share with our current readers some articles seven large cruiseships in port. This means some 10,000 tourists overrunning the small
from the past. This article by Lars Hassler was published in 1997. It is interesting to capital, Charlotte Amalie. The Cayman Islands for example, with only 40,000 citizens,
reflect on what has changed — and what hasn’t — since then. gets one million tourists a year, 70 percent of whom are cruiseship passengers.
The local tourism industry, however, is up in arms and claims that cruiseship pas-
After a five-year circumnavigation, we recently returned to the West Indies and sengers hardly spend anything on the islands they visit. They complain that pas-
completed a four-month, 3,500-nautical-mile-long, round-Caribbean tour. We sailed sengers eat, shop and gamble onboard, leave mountains of garbage behind, and buy
from Trinidad up the Lesser Antilles: Grenada, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, St. little more than T-shirts ashore (although the governments collect a head-tax of
Lucia, Martinique, Dominica, Guadeloupe, Antigua, Saba, St. Maarten to the Virgin US$5 to $15 for each passenger going ashore).
Islands and Puerto Rico, on to the Turks & Caicos islands, through the southern Lots of Yachts
Bahamas to Cuba, and then south via the Cayman Islands, Jamaica, Curaçao, One positive aspect of tourism in the Caribbean is the rapid rise of the yachting
Bonaire and back to Trinidad. industry. Numerous world-class marinas have been built to meet demand. Trinidad’s

FEBRUARY 2012
We cleared in and out through an incredible 20 jurisdictions — independent boatyards, south of the hurricane belt, are now capable of receiving over 1,000
nations as well as colonies. This relatively small area is the most politically frag- yachts. In St. Vincent, a yard for super-yachts has recently been built, and St.
mented in the world. Lucia’s Rodney Bay Marina is one of the best in the Lesser Antilles. In Antigua, there
We realized that the area is now developing service economies: tourism (including are new marinas in both Falmouth Harbour and Jolly Harbour. A major new marina
the yachting industry), offshore banking and… the drugs trade. is planned for Fort de France, Martinique.
Banana Wars The various islands take different approaches towards the yachting community.
The Caribbean islands have traditionally been dependent on the production of For some governments, it took a long time before the potential in this sector of the
commodities like salt, sugar and bananas. Sugar, the “white gold”, was by far the tourist industry was recognized. Barbados is a case in point. Since 1986, Jimmy
most important crop. For many of the small island states in the Lesser Antilles, the Cornell has organized the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), with about 150 yachts
“green gold” — bananas — is now the most important cash crop. After their colonies sailing from the Canary Islands to the Caribbean. In the beginning, well-situated
gained independence, France and England gave preferential treatment in the Barbados was the end destination. However, as yachting facilities there were found

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
European Union to their former colonies’ bananas. However, the huge United States- wanting, the ARC moved on to St. Lucia in 1990. The St. Lucian government had
owned banana plantations in Central America are considerably more efficient than Customs and Immigration personnel working around the clock in order to clear in
those in the Eastern Caribbean. These “dollar bananas” would therefore out-compete ARC yachts, and Rodney Bay Marina had just been completed. Too late did Barbados
the Caribbean bananas in Europe, were it not for the preferential treatment. The US realize that millions of tourist dollars were lost.
government therefore sued in 1996 for unfair trade practices in the newly formed Still today the islands have different approaches to visiting yachts. The French
World Trade Organization (WTO), and won. This outcome puts the whole banana islands make clearance procedures easy, but some countries continue to make it
industry in the small island states in jeopardy. complicated to clear in and out. St. Lucia has a good system, with the same form
Offshore Havens being used by both Customs and Immigration. St. Vincent & the Grenadines, how-
To diversify their economies, some islands have long been havens for “offshore” ever, still insists on using different forms, which is time consuming.
activities such as banking, insurance, incorporation and ship-registration services. Many islands have created national marine parks. Saba, the British Virgin Islands,
The offshore industries provide income with little infrastructure and investment. The Cayman Islands, Bonaire, Turks & Caicos, and to a certain extent St. Vincent & the
leading offshore nations are the British colonies (partly due to the fact that British Grenadines, put out buoys for yachts to use for moorings and/or diving. These are
law is applicable). The Cayman Islands is one of the world’s largest offshore centers, to protect the coral from boat anchors. Permission to dive in these places is mostly
with over 500 banks, including 46 of the world’s top 50. The Turks & Caicos, free or costs a small fee. On the other hand, Dominica, one of the poorest nations in

PAGE 25
Panama, the Bahamas and Curaçao are also “old” havens. Relative newcomers the area, will not allow yachtspeople to dive without a local dive operator. This costs
include Antigua, the BVI and St. Vincent & the Grenadines. about US$60 per dive and gives the local dive industry a de facto monopoly.
An offshore entity, a bank or a company, is an entity that doesn’t do any business Of the three categories of yachts — private cruisers, crewed charter yachts and bare-
in the host country; it is only “parked” there, sometimes having no physical presence boats — the bareboats have had a spectacular increase in numbers during the last
but a mailbox (at some lawyer’s or accountant’s office). They can conduct any busi- decade and the catamarans are getting increasingly popular. It has now come to pass
ness they wish without interference from either home or host governments: no in the Eastern Caribbean that the bareboaters might be the largest single group. In the
exchange controls, no or negligible income-, corporate- or capital gains taxes. The last Antigua Sail Week, which is the biggest regatta in the Caribbean, fully 45 percent
host country gets registration fees and some taxes, while the home country gets of the 250 participants were bareboats. By next year they might be in the majority.
nothing. If “parking” thousands of registered offshore companies, income for the host
nation could be millions of dollars per year, a major source of income. Lars Hassler is the author of Occupation Circumnavigator: Sailing Around the
The Drug Trade World, published by Adlard Coles Nautical in 2009 (ISBN 9781408112014). Lars
Lying between Latin America and the United States, the Caribbean is a natural describes it as “a handbook for aspiring long-distance sailors.” The book is available
transshipment area for drugs moving from south to north. This trade route is esti- at Amazon.com and other on-line booksellers.
 ALL ASHORE…
Before 1995, when the Soufriere Hills Volcano in Montserrat began its current by the results of the volcano, the southern end being devastated and in what is known
cycle of eruptions, I used to visit Montserrat every two weeks or so, skippering my as the Exclusion Zone where entry is restricted. The centre of the island north to
friend Russ’s supply boat, Skutter. At the deep-water harbour in Antigua’s capital, south is a mountainous ridge, part of which is the volcano and so the debris of lava,
St. John’s, a large refrigerated lorry would be driven onto the aft deck of Skutter, mud and ash from the eruptions spreads both westerly, encompassing the old capital
loaded with 15 tons of frozen chicken des- Plymouth,
P and easterly, completely cover-
tined for the Montserrat capital of Plymouth. ing
in the former airport and fanning out
Plymouth was a delightful Caribbean town seaward.
s We drove down the eastern coast
back then, picturesque, always clean and as
a far as we could and overlooked what
tidy. Seven tons of chicken a week they ate! had
h been a relatively modern airport; com-
After serious eruptions in 1995 and again
in 1997, the town of Plymouth was obliterat-
‘Yesterday’ and Tomorrow: pletely
p
top
obliterated under debris, just the
t of what may have been a conning tower
ed by volcanic ash and debris, with only the sticks
s forlornly up out of the mudflow.
upper floors of some buildings showing above
the mudflow.
Recently I was planning to leave Antigua
Diving Around Montserrat The northern half of the island is beauti-
ful,
fu very lush and green, with scattered
shops,
s rum shops and small businesses
and sail down to the Grenadines aboard my by Frank Pearce by
b the roadside. En route to the largest
50-foot Sciareli-designed schooner, Samadhi. village,
v Salem, a large elegant building
My crew, friends Jenny from Grenada and comes
c as a surprise. It is a new Cultural
Patsy from Antigua, had an idea to visit and
a Community Centre with a stage,
Montserrat on the way. Well, it’s not exactly music
m facilities, games rooms and so on.
on the way as it is some 35 miles southwest This
T was funded through the efforts of the
of Antigua. Prevalent winds at the time were southerly, so it seemed that we would famous English record producer George Martin and a number of musicians, and
have a broad reach to Montserrat and later, hopefully, have a close beat to Deshaies mainly through the sale of lithographs of the original score of the Beatles’ song
in Guadeloupe. “Yesterday”.
Setting off in the early morning we had a light-weather sail to Little Bay, now George Martin, who had a recording studio in London, visited Montserrat in 1979
the only anchorage in Montserrat with some shelter that is outside the “Exclusion and apparently loved the island so much he set up a recording studio near Richmond
Zone” that is restricted owing to possible danger from
the volcano. With the wind southerly, I was concerned

PATSY
as to whether there would be any shelter behind the
headland. It was early June and the beginning of hur-
ricane season. Tropical Waves could be expected every
four days or so, and being somewhere with little shel-
ter had me a tad nervous. Anyway, the anchorage was
fairly smooth if a little swelly.
PAGE 26

An evening on board, then off to clear in at Customs &

Immigration in the morning. Meeting the officials came
as a slight surprise as their uniforms are all British, the
Police uniforms also British… well, Montserrat British.
Of course they would be, as Montserrat is a British
Overseas Territory, previously known as a Crown Colony.
We felt very welcome; the lady Customs officer has a hire
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

car business with her husband, so in no time at all we

had wheels.
There’s a slight contradiction to the Britishness of the
island as it is even more Irish. So many surnames are
Irish that the inhabitants call it The Emerald Isle.
Although the national flag is a blue ensign, it is defaced
with the “Lady Erin”, a waif-like lady in a green (of
course) flowing robe, carrying a harp (of course again).
The villages have many Irish names: Kinsale, St.
Patrick’s and so on.
It seems that in the 1600s, when the Warner family
colonized St. Kitts, they “imported” immigrants from an
impoverished Ireland to work the land, only to persecute
them for their Catholic faith in a Cromwellian Protestant
English colony. Escaping from St. Kitts, the Irish found
FEBRUARY 2012

the lush unpopulated island of Montserrat. Later, slaves

were brought from Africa to replace the rebellious Irish
in St. Kitts and Montserrat itself became a “sugar
Island”.
Shortly after the catastrophic eruptions in 1995 and
1997, the British Government awarded the island some
12,000 pounds as assistance. The island of course
needed much more and on being petitioned the then
British Government Minister, Clare Short, apparently
made the scornful comment “Next they’ll be asking for
golden elephants,” which caused outrage, compensated
for and remembered by the trinkets in the shape of elephants that are for sale here Hill called AIR or Associated Independent Recording Studios. He is best known for
and there. his association with the Beatles, but recorded Eric Clapton, the Rolling Stones, Phil
The residents were awarded British citizenship in 2002, and many moved to the UK. Collins, Stevie Wonder, Elton John, and more musical stars — all in Montserrat.
The island is roughly divided in two, the northern half being relatively untouched —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page Up we continued to the Volcano Observatory (www.mvo.ms) where a team of geo-
When we drove down the east coast, we went as far as the Exclusion Zone bound- scientists constantly monitors the state of the volcano. In a small theatre there, a
ary, but a mile or so before that, looking for somewhere to eat, we were directed to a film shows the volcano in action, and also the emergency evacuation of Plymouth
lovely colonial single-storey house with deep verandas and a park-like surrounding. — trucks being loaded with possessions, businesses being barred up, forever.
Yes we could eat there; we did and it was lovely. Jenny, going into the house came I’m not clear how many people live in Montserrat now, somewhere between 3,000
and 6,000. The habitable half of the island is still bigger than all of Bequia (popula-

ISHWAR PERSAUD
tion somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000), for example, so there is plenty of space,
it’s not overcrowded and surely there is an opportunity to re-start businesses — the
land is there, the willing workforce is there.
Turning a bad situation to one’s advantage has always seemed to me to be a good
philosophy if one can see how to do so. One company is doing just that and is exca-
vating material from the bed of the Belham River and grading it for use in manufac-
turing concrete, as has been done in Guadeloupe using Soufriere ash in the same
way. The result is good, lightweight concrete with no salt content.
Talking of willing workforce, this visit just reinforced my admiration for the sto-
icism of Montserrat’s population, as can be said of other island populations that
periodically suffer natural disasters, hurricanes and earthquakes, who somehow
pick themselves up, dust themselves off (literally) and get on rebuilding their lives
from scratch, again and again.
There is a daily ferry to and from Antigua and a new small airport with daily flights
again to and from Antigua, and a reasonable anchorage at Little Bay. By ferry, plane
or yacht, it’s a worthwhile visit to make.
For more information on Montserrat visit www.visitmontserrat.com.

Frank Pearce is a marine surveyor, yachtsman, tugboat captain and past Vice-
Commodore of the Antigua Yacht Club.

Previous page: A once verdant coastline is now a moonscape of volcanic debris

Left: The picturesque town center of Plymouth was completely covered after the 1995
eruption of the Soufriere Hills Volcano

Below: Although the volcano is currently dozing it is monitored constantly

back to us, “There are original black-and-white photos

ROSS MAVIS
of Paul signed by Linda McCartney on the walls!” A very
young Paul. We were in George Martin’s villa just adja-

FEBRUARY 2012
cent to his now unused studio. Who had trodden those
boards before us?
We headed farther southward towards the Exclusion
Zone limit. The exact location of the boundary limit does
move depending upon the predicted volcanic activity. At
the time we were there, the boundary gate was open
and we were able to drive over the hardened mud and
volcanic rock debris that has filled the Belham riverbed.
We stopped to pick up some pumice stones.
Where the south bank of the river would have been,
the roof and upper-storey windows of a house were all

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
that was showing, the lower story being completely cov-
ered in 15 feet of debris.
Having crossed the riverbed we now drove upwards.
This hillside overlooking the old river and the sea had
clearly been where the wealthier Montserratians lived,
or maybe ex-pats. There were some truly beautiful vil-
las, but they were all boarded up. Some were clearly
being maintained, the gardens lush with flowers and
color; others seemed to be abandoned. While we could
drive there on that day, had there been a risk of volcanic
activity, the exclusion zone gates would have been
closed and no one able to go there, so living in any of
the villas was not practical. Presumably, some owners
were hopeful that the volcano would subside and they

PAGE 27
could move back. Other homes sported optimistic “For
Sale” signs.
Up and up we drove, four-wheel drive needed, until
on the summit of that hill we were overlooking what
had been Plymouth. Such desolation; so much loss.
But no loss of life I believe, unlike St. Pierre, the main
town of Martinique in 1902 when the mayor assured
the citizens of the town that there was no danger from
their Mont Pelée volcano, only to get it tragically wrong
with the result being that the entire population was
killed, except for the one prisoner in a stone jail cell
who survived.

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 ALL ASHORE…
parents or just being young
birds stretching or flapping
around awkwardly.
The sanctuary, which con-
tains over 170 species of birds,

Exploring Barbuda is home to over 5,000 frigate-

birds. Frigatebirds court in the
late summer and fall and the
chicks hatch out a few months

by Bike and Hike later and remain in and around

the nest for most of the winter.
Courtship is spectacular. The
male inflates his red throat
patch and sits on the nest
quivering his outstretched
wings, waving his head back
and forth, and drumming his
beak, hoping to attract a
female. Frigatebirds (Fregata
magnificens) have the largest
wingspan (four to five feet) in
proportion to their body size of
any bird in the world. They
often steal food from other
seabirds, such as pelicans,
gulls and tropicbirds.
After our bird-watching
expedition we decided to
explore the northwest end of
the island by bike. There are
no traffic lights or speed
bumps in Barbuda. Most of
the roads in this 14 by eight
mile island are dirt, sand or
PAGE 28

shell and the highest point is

125 feet, making this a perfect
island to explore by bike. If
you do not have bikes on board
you can rent them from John
(268 784-5717 or 268 773-
Who says the Caribbean is crowded? This was the only other ‘person’ on the beach 9599) who lives in a large blue
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

house on the corner of Ginnery

Barbuda is one of the few islands in the Eastern of hotels and the number of people who really want a and Teague Streets. He also
Caribbean that remains largely untouched by develop- remote holiday. rents kayaks. Much to our surprise, there are street
ment. The commercial attractions are few but the The main tourist attraction on Barbuda is the signs in Codrington and you can get a map from the
Tourist Information Office on Ginnery Street, not far
from the Codrington wharf. Ask anyone — they will be
delighted to help you enjoy their island. It is best to
call or visit John in advance of the actual time you
would like to rent a bike. His bikes are in good condi-
tion.
We biked to the Highland House Ruins (3.5 miles
northeast of Codrington) and, from there, walked to
the Darby Cave. The Highland House was built and
occupied in the mid-1700s and although not much
remains, it is clear that the house had a stunning view
FEBRUARY 2012

of Barbuda and the sea. The Darby Cave is a vertical

sinkhole over 70 feet deep and about 300 feet in diam-
eter. You can scramble on a rough trail to the cave
floor. Palm trees reach up to the sun, topping the rim
of the cave and giving the cave full shade at all times
of day. White-crowned pigeons nest in the cave and
provide a nearly constant sound track of “who took
two” (say this with your mouth in the puckered O posi-
tion). There are groups of bats hanging high above in
shady overhangs and if you look carefully you can find

Above: Hunter looking into the mouth of Darby Sinkhole

natural attractions are abundant and it is a wonderful
place to spend a week or two at anchor. If you like Right: You can rent bikes or kayaks from John
lonely anchorages, miles of sand beach, friendly peo-
ple and flat sandy roads for biking and hiking you Magnificent Frigatebird colony located in the island’s
might just fall in love with Barbuda. northwestern lagoon and accessible only by boat. The
Barbuda, pronounced bar-BOO-duh, is part of the opening of the Lagoon is in the north end far away the hives of honeybees. The cave is an oasis of tropical
twin island nation of Antigua & Barbuda. Codrington from safe anchorages, so the most practical way to get vegetation in the otherwise dry, scrubby island.
is the island’s capital and where most of the 1,600 to Codrington is to anchor at Low Bay, dinghy to After returning to our bikes we headed back to the
residents live. Land is held communally so outside shore, walk across the narrow beach and get a water main road and pedaled the half-mile to Two Foot Bay.
developers cannot buy land and develop resorts that taxi on the Lagoon side to take you into Codrington. We left our bikes at the interpretive sign and walked
are not wanted by the residents — and Bardudians My husband, Hunter, and I had arranged to meet our down the sandy path. This is a popular place for locals
prefer to keep their island largely undeveloped. The guide at the town jetty. You don’t have to get up early to lime on weekends and holidays, but on the two occa-
main industries are fishing and sand mining and most to sneak up on the frigatebirds. Our visit coincided sions that we visited we were the only ones enjoying
of those two products are exported to Antigua. Tourism with young in the nest and when we arrived they were the spectacular sea views and exploring the caves.
is also an import industry, but limited by the number sitting on or near the nest, begging for food from their —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page lection for capturing and eating red-footed tortoise
The caves are within the limestone escarpment on (Chelonoidis carbonaria), which is quite common on
the southeast side of the sandy path. They are well the island, can be seen by the pile of empty shells dis-
hidden by the vegetation and we found the caves by carded in a corner of the cave entrance. Along the way
following the small dirt trails to the cliffs. One of the
caves has an entrance to the top of the escarpment
you might find groups of donkeys that run wild on the
island and are left over from the sugar cane industry. Directions to
and you can see the skylight of the topside exit. There You can cross over the spiny vegetation on the dune
are petroglyphs (rock drawings) drawn by the
Amerindians or Arawaks in this cave.
for access to the windward coast and excellent beach-
combing. We found a mystery piece of beach trash that Highland House and
After our bike trip we were delighted to find Grace’s had us all guessing incorrectly — it turned out to be
Roti Shop. Grace makes a darn good roti and provides
simple furnishings for eating your roti in the shade.
an octopus trap. Barbuda is not about beach bars,
restaurants and T-shirts; its attractions are its natural
Darby Sinkhole
We were also able to restock on basic supplies at the features and friendly folks.
grocery stores. Leave Codrington on the River Road and after a
We explored the west coast of Barbuda from where few blocks take a left onto Highland Road. Stay on
we had anchored our Island Packet 45, Arctic Tern, in Highland Road for 3.5 miles and take the first
Gravenor Bay behind Palaster Reef. The Castle Hill right turn. The road forks — take the right fork.
Road on the southeastern coast provides good access Within 0.5 miles you will see an interpretive sign
to the Castle Hill cave that is used by locals for week- about Highland House. Leave your bikes at the
end camping and hunting trips. The islanders’ predi- sign and walk the half-mile to the ruins.
The trail to Darby Sinkhole is a bit difficult to
find and is not signed, but once you are on the
trail it is very distinct. Walk to the east side of the
terrace, which is slightly elevated. There is an old
roadbed bordered by stones running north and
south. Walk to the south end of the old roadbed
up a very slight incline into the trees, where you
will pick up a footpath. In less than a quarter mile
the trail will pass through two stone pillars. The
trail winds through brush and there are game
trails veering off of the main trail. The trail sub-
strate is either limestone bedrock or red soil,
which has permanently stained the rock. If a side
trail, used by livestock, confuses you, look for the
red-stained rock and you will know that you are
on the correct trail. In about 40 minutes you will
get to the top of Darby Cave. If you walk around
the rim a bit farther you will see a path down to

FEBRUARY 2012
the bottom.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 29

Above left: Donkeys run wild on the island

Above right: Palms reach for the sun, top-

ping the rim of the sinkhole and giving full
shade all day

Left: Walking on the Castle Hill Road.

There is little shade, so bring plenty of
water
 Basil’s Bar
Mustique
WHAT ARE
Visitors to Mustique are invited to:
BASIL’S BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the World’s Ten
THE ODDS? by Tom Scott
Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated, the new face
of Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more: offering fresh seafood, lobster in season, steaks and WHAM! I’m on my feet and running for the cockpit of my boat, even before I awake.
the best beefburger in the Caribbean. Now equipped with WIFI, you can enjoy sunset cocktails and It’s 3:00AM, pitch black and questions are racing in my mind.
catch up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8:00am. Lunch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 We had taken a mooring in Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau, on the afternoon of
until late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday Night Jump Up December 23rd, 2011. I had checked the mooring thoroughly; the lines were good
and BBQ. Basil’s Bar is home of the only Blues Festival in the Caribbean. The Mustique Blues
Festival takes place from January 25 - February 8, 2012. Call (784) 488-8350 or VHF 68.

KENMORE HENVILLE
BASIL’S BOUTIQUE: Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for island joy.
Elegant island evening and playful day wear. For women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts to
take home. Basil’s Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry.

BASIL’S GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's Great General
Store. Bountifully stocked with fine French wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces.
Imported cigars and an unusual collection of books not to be missed. Fine foods in Paradise.
Call (784) 488-8407.

ACROSS FOREVER: Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India.
Across Forever has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary
pieces, home furnishings, fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and
efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407.

Visitors to St Vincent are invited to:

BASIL’S BAR: Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air
PAGE 30

conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals are
some of the best on the island. Now offering full catering services. Call (784) 457-2713.

AT BASIL’S: Newly opened full service SPA located in Villa across from Young Island. Also At
Basil’s is a collection of beautiful bamboo furniture, contemporary pieces from Asia and beyond,
and more. Opening of a new coffee shop by the sea.
Call (784) 456-2602
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent

www.basilsbar.com basils@vincysurf.com

WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD!

MERIDIAN PASSAGE
FEBRUARY 2012

OF THE MOON Above: Monet II underway

Below: Our chart plotter image. From the top, the line at left is our track entering Salt
Whistle Bay; the arrow at the end is the boat resting on the mooring. With the chart
FEBRUARY - MARCH 2012 plotter turned off after arrival our dragging course is not recorded. After waking, I
turned the chart plotter on and the track begins again — see how far into the reef
we were. The squirrely track up the page is the result of ‘Go left’, ‘No, go right’

Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will
make your passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don
Street, author of Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which
shows the time of the meridian passage (or zenith) of the moon for this AND next
month, will help you calculate the tides.
Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. The tide starts
running to the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about an
hour after the moon reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward.
From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward;
and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward; i.e.
the tide floods from west to east. Times given are local.
Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons.
For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire
charts. Fair tides!
February 21 1147 (new) 12 0320
DATE TIME 22 1232 13 0419
1 1904 23 1315 14 0519
2 1954 24 1358 15 0617
3 2045 25 1441 16 0713
4 2137 26 1525 17 0806
5 2230 27 1610 18 0856
6 2322 28 1657 19 1943
7 0000 (full) 29 1745 20 1028
8 0013 21 1112 (new)
9 0104 March 22 1158
10 0154 1 1835 23 1238
11 0245 2 1926 24 1321
12 0338 3 2017 25 1406
13 0432 4 2108 26 1452 and we had four feet of water under the keel. I was a little concerned about the pos-
14 0528 5 2200 27 1539 sibility of northerly swells coming in during the night. The forecast was good, but the
15 0625 6 2251 28 1628 bay had just had a bout of northerlies that was subsiding when we came in.
16 0724 7 2342 29 1717 Forecasts can be wrong and I stayed vigilant. I had watched the swells until 1:00AM.
17 0821 8 0000 (full) 30 1807 The winds were strong out of the east-northeast and I felt we were in good shape.
18 0917 9 0034 31 1857 Now what? Did someone hit us? Did the swells grow? Did the wind change and are we
19 1010 10 0128 now in shallower water, hitting the bottom? Did we break loose from the mooring?
20 1059 11 0223 —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page
Seconds after I reached the cockpit, my crew surfaced: Brad Richardson, Tim
Mathis, Elizabeth Malinowski and Michelle Britton had gotten up and joined me.
“What happened?” they asked. We looked around in the darkness and could not see
a thing. Then again, WHAM! I started the engine, turned on the deck light and looked
to see what was up. I ordered someone to go to the bow and check the mooring.
I could hardly walk. Just days before, I was in Bequia having Dr. Danny treat the
worst infection I have ever had. My right foot had an insidious combined fungal and
bacterial infection and was so swollen my crew had nicknamed me “elephant man”.
“We are still on the mooring!” came a voice from the bow. I shone a light aft of our
stern and my heart sank. We were on the reef and not far from breaking waves. The
mooring had dragged, cement weight and all.
With the wind howling and the waves pushing us farther and farther onto the reef,
I gave the order to release us from the mooring. With the engine revs at about 2,000
per minute, I tried to move the boat forward, gunning it every time I felt a wave
crest. We would begin to inch forward but then would hit something (probably a
coral head).
By this time the locals on the beach were up. We were giving them quite a show.
Finally a couple of them came out with a small motorboat. We tried to hook the main
halyard to the motorboat to heel Monet II, a 47-foot Beneteau, over enough to get over
the coral head. As luck would have it, the main halyard was caught up in the deck
light and under the circumstances it would have taken forever to get it off. Using the
jib halyard was out of the question. Six months ago I had a spinnaker halyard

FEBRUARY 2012
Tim, Elizabeth, the author, Michelle and Brad

installed, not primarily for flying a spinnaker, but for hauling the dinghy on the deck
and other utility purposes. The spinnaker halyard saved the day. We gave the hal-
yard to Roderick, the local with the boat, and I stayed on the helm with the engine
running, ready to pounce. Time was of the essence; the waves were pushing us far-
ther and farther into the reef. The first attempt was weak and we were still stuck.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
By this time I’m thinking, “I’m ruining the engine,” “I’m going to lose the boat,” “If
we don’t get off soon, we’ll have to abandon ship.”
Then I heard Roderick’s engine roar and got ready to give Monet II’s engine all she’s
got, thinking, “I would rather ruin the engine then lose the boat on the reef.” Monet
II heeled hard to starboard — at least 40 degrees. “It’s now or never,” I thought and
pushed the throttle forward as hard as I could, steering to port. The boat lurched
forward with a roar and within seconds righted herself. I looked at the depth gauge:
we had three feet of water under the keel.
I felt enormous relief, and in the darkness I slowly motored over to the other moor-
ing lights. One of the locals was yelling at me, “Go left, Captain, go left!” Another in
a panicked voice was yelling, “No, Captain, go right, go right!” This went on for some-
time and I thought, “I will just keep the boat near the others in the bay, while
monitoring my depth gauge incessantly.” I gathered my thoughts, took a few deep
breaths, and contemplated my next move.

PAGE 31
The locals wanted to take me to another mooring. I yelled, “NO! I’m going over to
Saline Bay to anchor.” I was still worried about northerlies coming in and felt we
were better off over there. In retrospect I think this was a bad decision. I had not
assessed any damage yet and in the moonless night, moving to Saline Bay could
be treacherous.
The locals, including Roderick, guided us over to Saline Bay. My GPS conflicted
with their guidance and at first I vacillated between trusting them and trusting my
GPS. The locals were still conflicted and I kept hearing, “Go left, Captain, go left” and
another voice “No, Captain, go right, go right.” Finally I thought, “Screw it, I’m fol-
lowing my GPS and chart plotter.”
After an uneventful ride over to Saline Bay we anchored and the locals came
aboard to present us with “the bill”. We bickered and negotiated while they drank
our rum and smoked our cigarettes and finally we came to an agreement. Then they
told us that a Nine Mornings party, a local pre-Christmas tradition, was taking place
on the island and invited us. My crew went with them and had a great time. I stayed
on the boat since my foot was throbbing in excruciating pain. Besides, I did not want
to leave Monet II alone after she had been through such a traumatic experience.
The next morning I put on a dive mask and assessed the damage. The hull was
untouched except for some rub marks from Roderick’s boat. The keel had some
minor scratches but no sign of any stress. The rudder on the other hand was miss-
ing the bottom 18 inches or so. But, what remained of the rudder was solid; the
shaft was still aligned perfectly, the shaft housing was completely intact, and we
had no leaks.
Just ten months previously I had also been here in the Grenadines, sailing from
Union Island to Wallilabou Bay on St. Vincent, and had hit a semi-submerged ship-
ping container ten miles northwest of Canouan. That collision took out my rudder
and put a small hole in the boat (see article in July 2011 Caribbean Compass). The
rudder shaft had been forced out of alignment and the housing had ripped off the
hull and we had a small leak. The damage had been repaired in St. Vincent at Ottley
Hall. I can only say great things about Ottley Hall. Paul, the manager, and the work-
men had done an excellent job making the repairs competently, on time and at a
reasonable cost.
I wanted to take Monet II back to Ottley Hall for repairs now, but it was Christmas
Eve and they were closed until the 28th.
We continued our cruise in the Grenadines and at every stop I re-checked the rud-
der time and time again for further damage and decided it would get us back to
Rodney Bay with no trouble, which it did in spite of extraordinary conditions (30 to
35 knots of wind all the way to St. Lucia) on December 30th.
I have been cruising off and on in the Caribbean for over 30 years without a hitch
worth mentioning. Then, in 2011, I seriously damaged my rudder twice — once from
hitting a semi-submerged shipping container and then, ten months later, from using
a less-than-adequate mooring. What are the odds?
 Dinghy Lost and Found:
over the fringe reef.
Mary on M/V Ms. Astor came over and consoled us
with skill and the usual libations. The next morning
she conducted an extensive search throughout the

MIRACLES DO HAPPEN! many islets and cays of Las Aves Barlovento. Gary and
Nora on S/V Cordelia notified the Venezuelan Guarda
Costa the next day as they passed by Las Aves
Sotovento, heading west. Several days later we trav-
by Kim White eled to Bonaire, and made the usual reports, and
contacted the Dutch Coast Guard in Curaçao. We put
an ad in the local English language newspaper, The
Bonaire Reporter.
If you have any doubt about miracles, read this During the trip our towing system failed (read more We got busy trying to find something to use as a
story, and learn about ours. We feel very fortunate to about this in the Lessons Learned sidebar) and the dinghy. Several friends in Curaçao helped try to locate
know so many cruisers who were willing to lend more dinghy went adrift. a dinghy for us there. We were fortunate to meet up
with Eddy of Double Eagle, a fisherman friend from
Bonaire, who loaned us the dinghy we had given him
when we purchased our new (now lost) dinghy, so we
were able to leave the Náutico dock.
After a couple of weeks with no news about our din-
ghy, two very sad sailors began the process of ordering
and purchasing an identical replacement dinghy from
Pam Werdath at Budget Marine Bonaire, where we had
bought the missing dinghy less than a year before.
Needless to say, a purchase of this magnitude is not
something anyone would want to make twice in one
year. Pam and the Budget team were very accommo-
dating, but there would be a considerable delay of
many months at the manufacturer’s end. So we settled
in with the familiar loaner dinghy, and kept up the
search for an interim dinghy to buy.
Unknown to us, about two weeks after the dinghy
was lost, during a camping visit on the beach at
Rancho Amistad at Swat Mangel in southeastern
Aruba, a group of citizens from Centro Colorado Nobo,
a substance-abuse rehab facility in Aruba, discovered
the dinghy washed ashore, and it was in good condi-
tion. What a valuable find this was! Although tempta-
PAGE 32

tion to keep it was great, the group decided to notify

the Aruba Maritime Police. This kind and caring act is
a keystone of this story, and this group should be con-
gratulated for making a hard choice.
The marine police then collected the dinghy, which
had traveled about 200 miles. There were no names
or other markings on the dinghy that identified who it
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

might belong to, other than a manufacturer’s serial

number. An old cap found inside the bow compart-
ment was from Bonaire, and offered the only real
clue, so the detective work for the Aruba Maritime
Police began. Recognizing the AB brand as being sold
by the local Budget Marine store in Aruba, they con-
tacted the manager there, Tony Waldron, to see if he
had a serial number registry. No, they did not, but he
offered to contact the Budget Marine headquarters in
St. Maarten to see if they did, but again, no — they
Left to right: Ulrich Bertrand, Ryan Anthony, the author (holding the ‘clue cap’), and Igmar Benschop. did not have a registry.
The wandering dinghy is in the front; S/V Gabrielle is in the background When the Bonaire cap was mentioned, contact was
then made with Budget Marine in Bonaire. When
Pam Werdath, the manager of Budget Marine
FEBRUARY 2012

than a hand when the chips were down. Nearing Las Aves we discovered that the dinghy was Bonaire, got the call, of course she knew all about
We are Kim and Doug on S/V Gabrielle and in mid- missing and conducted an extensive search, but it was the missing dinghy, and said she knew exactly who
September of 2011 we were towing our AB RIB dinghy not found. A fair swell was running, and the dinghy the dinghy belonged to, and that she had the bill of
(minus the engine and fuel tank) between the archi- had a dark blue cover, making it very hard see. A fur- sale with the serial numbers on it to prove it. She
pelagos of Los Roques and Las Aves in Venezuela, a ther search was made after arriving in Las Aves, and e-mailed this information to the maritime police and
short day trip of about 30 miles. It was a nice day, a we waited, hoping the dinghy would catch up on a the case was solved!
dead downwind sail, and all seemed well onboard. direct downwind path, and perhaps find its way home —Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page wide. The team of Maritime Police — Ulrich Bertrand, is their problem. It does not seem possible for them to
Pam then notified us, and we were understandably Alex Henriquez, Igmar Benschop and Ryan Anthony “unclip” themselves, but believe me, they can and do.
in shock but overjoyed at the good news. A few calls — all had a hand in this successful conclusion. Many In our case the primary (bow eye) one unclipped itself,
and it was determined that the dinghy was in fine people helped us with dinghy transport in Bonaire and and the safety-line carabineer, inside the lifting pad-
condition, and then the process of reuniting with the Curaçao during the dinghy-less time it took for this eye, had the spring pop out when it took a side load
wayward dinghy began. Sally on S/V Zahe was in entire story to reach its very happy ending. (best guess). So we had two lines and two clips (one
failed) and no dinghy. There is a screw type of carabi-
neer, called a quicklink, that we will use from now on;

HART & STONE

it cannot come unclipped.
I would offer this same advice for folks and their
safety harnesses — I know that it is less convenient,
but safety is safety! It seems important to me to know
the device will always do its job. All the harnesses we
have seen have the same kind of carabineer we had
come unclipped. Unusual side and shock loads seem
to cause the problem.
There is a related issue of the dinghy’s ability to be
towed. On ABs up to ten feet long, they put two tow-
ing eyes (glued to hypalon, which does not seem like
a great idea) plus a bow eye. On the larger ones like
ours, there is only a single bow eye, and the owner’s
manual suggests installing a second pair if you plan
to tow. Our safety line was clipped to an interior lift-
ing eye. It seems that AB thinks anyone with a
larger dinghy has davits or, for a big motor yacht, a
crane. I have heard from others who have lost din-
ghies because of pulled-out bow eyes, and both were
lucky to recover them. They then added additional
towing eyes and beefed up the backing plates as
well, similar to what is now suggested by AB.
Personally I think AB and the other manufacturers
should design and install proper towing hardware.
Budget Marine has made this point to AB, but with
no success so far. We are going to beef up ours now
that we have it back.
Dinghy Recovery
On “recovery” — ours was mostly luck. There was
nothing in the dinghy to identify it, not even the yacht

FEBRUARY 2012
name (since we no longer put it on), but it may not
have helped anyway.
The Marine Police in Aruba contacted the Aruba
Budget Marine store manager, knowing that they sold
ABs, to see if he had any registration info from the
dinghy serial number. They did not, but some manu-
Gabrielle’s dinghy made an approximately 200-mile unmanned voyage from somewhere east of Islas de Las Aves facturers do. Having a bill of sale with the serial num-
to Aruba ber from either the chandlery or the previous owner is
critical to prove ownership. For backup, a photo is a
Aruba, and helped tremendously. She arranged So it is a long series of miracles from start to finish, good idea as well, especially if there is something dis-
dockage at the Nautical Club, and took me to meet with much good work and many good deeds done by tinctive about your dinghy, for example a patch, or

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
with the Aruba Marine Police. The Marine Police went many caring people. We want to extend our heartfelt added hardware.
well beyond the call of duty — they cracked the case thanks to everyone involved. We have learned a few So it comes down to what sort of info should be in
and then safely stored the dinghy, and even facili- lessons, which are shared in the sidebar; take a look the dinghy (and where). We have a bow compart-
tated the officialdom required by Aruba Customs (the and give a few moments consideration to any that ment, so I plan to put something inside, with some
dinghy had, after all, attempted to import itself). might apply to you. Melodye Pompa has posted this sort of contact info, but what should that be? If we
Then they delivered the dinghy from Customs to us same information on the News page of the Caribbean are offshore we can’t get e-mail. I’m thinking I will
at the Nautical Club. A very nice group of conscien- Safety and Security Net webpage, www.safetyandsecu- put our yahoo e-mail address, the phone number
tious and caring gentlemen, we were very glad to ritynet.com. You will find a variety of important and and e-mail address of a friend in the US, and the
have the chance to get to know them. If you ever lose useful information there. e-mail address of Caribbean Safety and Security Net
your dinghy, you can hope that these are the fellows (safetyandsecuritynet@gmail.com). One or more of
who find it. those should be able to get a message back to us in
This is really not just one miracle of a dinghy lost at Lessons Learned a timely way.
sea being found — it was several, because the dinghy
was found by caring citizens who chose to do the right Safe Dinghy Towing

PAGE 33
thing, and then the old Bonaire cap clue helped the The short version of “safe towing” is: always use two Kim White and Doug Hurst have been cruising togeth-
conscientious Aruba Maritime Police to locate us, work- separate lines, with capable hardware. We used cara- er aboard Gabrielle, a Peterson 44, for more than
ing with the Budget Marine organization, Caribbean bineers, and BOTH failed. The convenience of clip-on a decade.
 CRUISING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

plies? Sure, all of those are good causes. But are any of them our causes? And
whatever we decide to do, can two people make a truly significant impact, operating

On the Road from a sailboat?

Then, while sailing from Aracaju, Brazil, where our cat was built, north through
the Eastern Caribbean, we visited schools (Harriet is a former teacher) on Union
Island, Dominica, and Nevis to see if we could help in some way. On each island,
school principals and teachers told us the same thing: child literacy is a serious
problem. At almost every school, reading books for children are in very, very short
supply. Most children do not grow up with books in the home (too expensive), and
many children are reading far below grade level. Schools have their own government-
mandated textbooks and curriculum, but government budgets don’t stretch to pro-
viding reading books — the kind of books that excite and engage kids, the kind of
books that can help open the door to a lifelong love of reading. It deeply disturbed
us to see such bright, eager children growing up without books, without a love of
reading, and we wanted to do something about it.
The discovery — child literacy in the Caribbean — came with a challenge: how to
give Caribbean kids access to high-quality, new and near-new books? Pondering all
this as we sailed up to the US, we began imagining a way to get great books and vital
school supplies to Eastern Caribbean schools on a wide scale. With fantastic help
from corporate “angels” such as Harte-Hanks (warehouse services), AIT Worldwide
(trucking), and Tropical Shipping (ocean shipping), all the while working with the

to Find Out nonprofit Boaters for Books, in 2008 we sent our first shipment, 25 boxes of books
and ten boxes of teaching resources, to three Caribbean schools. Back then, it

Harriet and Tom aboard their Dolphin 460 performance-cruising cat

by Tom (“T.L.”) Linskey

For my wife, Harriet, and me, Caribbean cruising at its best is half challenge, half
discovery. The challenges involve everything from ocean sailing from New England to
PAGE 34

the Caribbean and the often boisterous stuff between the islands to living aboard
and maintaining our boat’s equipment as we hop from place to place. As for discov-
eries, they’re plentiful here in the Eastern Caribbean. A generous sprinkling of island
gems, each with its own beauty and culture and history, along with an ever-changing
cast of international cruisers and local characters. Yet it was only in the past few
years, after sampling the Leewards and Windwards for over 30 years, mostly on
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

charterboats, that we stumbled on a side of these islands — the real Caribbean —

that we never knew existed.
We’d been bluewater cruising before. Back in 1986, we built a 28-foot Bristol
Channel Cutter from a bare hull and deck and sailed it 15,000 miles, from Southern
California to Baja California, Mexico, and then to the South Pacific, New Zealand,
Australia, and, finally, a 47-day nonstop passage to Japan. While cruising through
the South Pacific — the Marquesas, Tuamotus, Society Islands, Cook Islands, Niue,
and Tonga — we were struck as much by the awe-inspiring beauty as by the near-
poverty of the local people. As bluewater cruisers know, when you buy your provi-
sions at the open market and fill your jerry cans at the village tap, you see the real Tom and schoolboys. Got books? Now let’s build some bookshelves!
life of the islands. Like many cruisers, we helped out where we could along the way,
always more than repaid with smiles and an avalanche of fruit, but we had no struc-
ture in place that would let us make a lasting difference. So we’d say goodbye and seemed like a lot — it was too much, after all, to carry on our boat. But we didn’t
sail on. realize that our journey with Hands Across the Sea was just beginning. There was a
Fast forward to 2007, when we sold our house in Massachusetts, plunked the lot to learn about the challenge of child literacy, a lot to discover about how we could
FEBRUARY 2012

money down on a new Dolphin 460 performance-cruising cat, and began preparing make a real difference in the lives of children in these islands. And we were on the
to set out on our second round of bluewater cruising. But we’d already done a lot of road to find out.
ocean sailing, and we’d already seen a lot of beautiful islands. We needed new chal- We kept at it every year, refining and growing our mission, sailing between the
lenges and discoveries. This time, we wanted to both cruise and make a difference Eastern Caribbean and New England, living aboard the whole time. We’d spend win-
— a real difference — along the way. Before we left, we filed the paperwork for Hands ters in the islands, leaving the boat every morning to hop on a bus or taxi and head-
Across the Sea, a US-registered 501 (c)(3) non-profit charity. But our focus was ing off to investigate schools we’d heard about.
unclear. Girls’ empowerment? Protecting the environment? Delivering medical sup- —Continued on next page

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—Continued from previous page new, well-written and well-illustrated books with contemporary subject matter, the
We’d listen to school principals, teachers, literacy advisors, remedial reading spe- effect of “seeing themselves” in the books is powerful. Thus we are sending more
cialists, US Peace Corps Volunteers, and Ministry of Education officials, all of whom and more books about the Caribbean, written and illustrated by Caribbean authors
gave us a warm welcome and solid advice. And at every school we’d be thronged by and artists.
kids, laughing, smiling, high-fiving, running, playing, singing. What an amazing Create Vibrant Libraries. Second, we’ve learned that books alone are not enough.
We work only with schools whose staff are truly committed to improving literacy, and
can draw on support from literacy coordinators and remedial reading teachers. The
best way to make reading a part of children’s lives is to create sustainable, high-
functioning borrowing libraries, usually a school library. Doing so takes dedication
and resources, along with substantial buy-in from school staff, parents, and mem-
bers of the local community. Together with Peace Corps Volunteers in the region, we
are developing guides for creating vibrant borrowing libraries in schools, often where
no library existed before — in the school or the community.
Life is a Voyage. Third, Harriet and I have learned that cruising can still take us
to new places. We never dreamed, for example, that we’d find ourselves in the front
row of a classroom at Piaye Combined School in rural southern St. Lucia, being
welcomed by a troupe of barefoot, costumed Creole dancers — yep, the students
(Hands donated new books to the school’s library, damaged by Hurricane Tomas).
Or that we’d be wandering the playground of Fitz-Hughes Primary School in
Chateaubelair, St. Vincent, as the entire school — teachers, too — joyously skipped
rope (Hands donated five boxes of teaching resources, including jump ropes). Or, at
the opening of the Hands-created Literacy Center at Isaiah Thomas Secondary
School on Dominica, that we’d come suddenly face-to-face, eye-to-eye with a high
school boy, tall and on the cusp of becoming a man, who fist-bumped us and then
pressed his hand over his heart, rasta-style — one love — without saying a word. He
didn’t need to.
This Hands Across the Sea voyage, with all of its challenges and discoveries,

Primary students in St. Kitts reading books from Hands

with a Peace Corps volunteer

discovery, this side of the Caribbean we’d somehow never seen! We’d come away
convinced that there’s no way anyone could visit a Caribbean school and not want
to help out, not want to become a part of it.

FEBRUARY 2012
Our part was getting needed school materials, from pencils to tempera paint to
photocopiers and toner, to the teachers and getting top-notch books to the students.
Every May we’d sail back to New England, where we’d spend the summer buying,
sorting, and packing that year’s shipment. Then, in late October, we’d sail back to
the Caribbean and check in with our “adopted” schools — last season alone we vis-
ited over 60 schools, from Anguilla to Grenada. Our most recent shipment, in
October of 2011, 51,470 new and near-new books and 95 boxes of teaching materi-
als, weighed more than 19,000 pounds, filled an 18-wheeler truck, and went to 100
Hands-adopted projects.
So here we are in 2012, and Hands Across the Sea is now the largest public char-
ity dedicated to raising the literacy levels of Eastern Caribbean children, from pre-

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
school to high school. We’ve shipped over 102,000 new and near-new books and
184 boxes of teaching resources to 178 schools, community libraries, reading pro-
grams, and youth centers, reaching over 37,000 children. We work on the islands
of Anguilla, Antigua, St. Kitts & Nevis, Dominica, St. Lucia, St. Vincent & the
Grenadines, and Grenada. For the 2011 shipment alone we coordinated with 41
US Peace Corps Volunteers and 94 school principals, department heads, or teach-
ers, fulfilling their Hands Wish Lists of requested books and teaching resources.
In 2011 the US Embassy selected us to create libraries for underserved high Harriet with young readers at the Stephanie Browne Primary School in Union Island
schools on six islands, and we partnered with The Sandals Foundation on several
school library and youth center projects. And as Hands has grown we’ve learned
three key things.
Send Great Books. First, we’ve learned that the “donation dumping” practice of has been rewarding beyond anything we could have imagined. Harriet and I
charities that send throwaway books — library discards, worn-out, outdated, or count ourselves lucky to be able to make a lasting difference in the Eastern
inappropriate books — to Caribbean children is not only counterproductive but Caribbean, this special place of beautiful islands and warm smiles. We count

PAGE 35
harmful. Hands Across the Sea purchases only new or near-new books published ourselves lucky to be able to slip behind the veil and become a small part of the
by Scholastic, Dorling-Kindersley, and Caribbean-niche imprints such as Macmillan life of the real Caribbean.
Caribbean, LMH Publishing, and Campanita Books. Not only do kids respond to For more information visit www.handsacrossthesea.net.

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 GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS
Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on up-to-date Imray charts. BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER
Regarding marine infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free marine trade guide

A FAMILIAR TUNE
every year, which is much more up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist
departments put out a free annual guide for bars, restaurants and hotels.
With all these updates readily available, Street’s guides are timeless.

Real sailors use Street’s Guides for

inter-island and harbor pilotingdirections, The Long Song, by Andrea Levy. Picador 2010 edition, ISBN 978-0-312-57114-6.
plus interesting anecdotes of people, The Long Song is English-born Andrea Levy’s rendition of a tune from a bygone era
places and history. Street’s Guides that people in the Americas and Caribbean region know only too well. The lyrics and
are the only ones that describe arrangement may be somewhat different but the tune is familiar. In a story set in the
ALL the anchorages birthplace of her parents, Jamaica, Levy recounts life during the closing period of
in the Eastern Caribbean slavery in the early 19th century on the Amity plantation, through narrator Miss
July’s storytelling.
NEW! Street’s videos, The Long Song is a sig-
first made in 1985, nificant story about the
are now back as DVDs ugly, brutal, oppressive
• “Transatlantic with Street” documents a saiing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours institution of slavery; it is
• “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys a book that has great
to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour value, but while reading it,
• “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour I could not help but think
• “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, that the author was know-
plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland ingly and deliberately try-
DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com ing to weed out her read-
Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com ing audience as her narra-
HURRICANE TIPS! Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of information on tracking & securing for a storm tor will attest to: “But
before you slap this book
Street’s Guides and DVDs are available shut in frustration at your
at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, storyteller having strayed
or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com so far from her tale, let me
bring you back so you can
find reason within this old
woman’s diversion”.
Furthermore, Miss July
PAGE 36

regularly goes off key, inter-

rupting the telling of her
story to directly address the
reader. “Reader, come with
me to peer through a win-
dow of the great house.”
Not too many pages on, we
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

again encounter, “Now,

reader, although I have suf-
fered hardships,” and again
further on, “Now, reader, it
is not that your storyteller
is indolent”. These breaks
in the flow of the story
occur much too often, and
can be irritating to some
readers. Moreover, the drift
between a third-person
past and first person present did nothing to help this read
first-person reader’s attention span.
But these are not the only stressful distractions; the flow is additionally disrupted
by the editorial advice of Miss July’s long-lost son, Thomas Kinsman. The novel is
FEBRUARY 2012

presented as the memoir of his octogenarian mother by Kinsman, a well-off Jamaican

printer who also penned the foreword and afterword.
But enough of these convoluted intrusions dear reader; except for the imposed
writing style, the plot is a select one, with impressive character portrayals, chief of
which is the spirited Miss July, child of Kitty, a field slave, and the churlish Amity
overseer Tam Dewar’s unwanted “rude act”. Miss July grows up in the cane fields
where she is taken every day by her mother. One day the child is spotted in the field
by Caroline Mortimer, the recently transplanted widowed sister of Amity’s owner,
John Howarth. She is taken away from her mother to be renamed Marguerite and
become Caroline’s personal maid in the big house.
However, Miss July, or Marguerite, as Caroline calls her, soon hits the high notes:
she becomes wise to the guiles of the slaves. They may be down, but they are not
out, and they get back at their masters by means of passive resistance. When for the
Christmas dinner the headman Godfrey instructs Miss July to put a bedsheet upon
the table instead of the fine Irish linen tablecloth, “she began to smile, for she
scented Godfrey’s mischief.”
The clatter the fiddlers played for the dinner guests was “unrecognizable as a
tune”. But they took all the right chords when they “played in the yard for the ser-
vants’ gathering… no more clatter or unrecognizable tune — the sound of a sweet
melody came whispering through the open window. For, like most slave fiddlers, it
only amused them to play bad for white ears.”
All told, Caroline’s unfinished Christmas dinner turns out to be a comic fiasco,
abruptly ending when the news arrives about the outbreak of the Baptist war and
the male guests ride away to join the militia.
While John Howarth is away from Amity, Nimrod Freeman, a former slave and
groom on the plantation, appears on the scene. He is fascinated by Miss July as
much as she is with his purchased status. Miss July has their child soon after
Nimrod is killed. She abandons the baby by the gate of the home of the Baptist min-
ister and his wife. The couple gives the baby their name, Kinsman — Thomas
Kinsman. When they return to England they take Thomas with them and provide
him with a formal education.
Meanwhile back on the plantation, John Howarth returns from the war disgusted
by the experience and commits suicide. Because his marriage was childless and his
wife died shortly after his sister’s arrival in Jamaica, Caroline assumes ownership of
Amity. To help manage the estate — after the overseer, Tam Dewar, Miss July’s
father, is killed by her mother, Kitty, and a series of overseers prove unsuitable —
Caroline finally settles on a clergyman’s son, an Englishman, Robert Goodwin, who
is brimming with noble ideals. Both Caroline and Miss July have their eyes on him.
With this love interest in the book, the tale soars.
Except for the “dear reader” syndrome and offbeat timing, The Long Song is a note-
worthy one, delivered by a sensitive voice.
This book is available at bookstores and on-line booksellers.
 THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY!

The Sky in
Speaking of calendars, there is a proposed new calendar out there called the
Hanke-Henry Permanent Calendar (Figure 3). Our present calendar is thanks to
Pope Gregory in 1592! Time for a change? This new calendar features four sets of
months of 30, 30, and 31 days. That makes 91 x 4 = 364 days. Close, although about

February 2012

FIGURE 2
by Scott Welty
The Planets in February 2012
MERCURY - Will be at nearly maximum elongation (angular distance from the sun)
at the end of the month. Look in the western horizon at dusk. If you see a ‘star’ on
that western horizon it almost has to be Mercury. No other bright objects near it.
VENUS - Still a nice bright evening star in Pisces
EARTH - Feeling not so lonely these days
MARS - Rising between 2000 hours (early February) and 1730 hours and riding in Leo
JUPITER - Setting between 2300 hours (early February) and 2200 hours in Aries
SATURN - Rising an hour or two after Mars in Virgo

FI9GURE 1
a day short, but what this does is guarantee that any particular DATE would always
fall on the same DAY. For example July 12th would always be a Thursday. What
about leap years and that missing day and change? Get this: every five or six years
you insert an entire extra week! (Hmmm… could throw a spanner into sports sched-
ules?) Stick it right on the end of the year and the whole planet gets either an extra

FEBRUARY 2012
week’s vacation or an extra week of productivity. By inserting an entire week you

FIGURE 3

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
Sky Events This Month
7th - Full Moon
11th - Moon sandwiched between Saturn and Mars (Figure 1)
21st - New Moon
26th - Venus, Jupiter and the Crescent moon (Mercury, too?). (Figure 2)
28th - Moon and Pleiades

PAGE 37
29th - HEY, it’s a leap year (see below)
Leap Year
Yep, 2012 is a leap year because the number 2,012 is evenly divisible by four. Of don’t scramble the day-date connection. The authors point out that a more standard
course the reason for leap years is to keep the seasons in step with the earth’s orbit. calendar would make financial dealings easier and save a pile of money. (For whom
It takes the earth 364.2422 days to orbit the sun. If we just pretended that was 364 is unclear.) Oh, and the authors suggest we get rid of time zones and just have
(or 364.25 like the Julian calendar did) we’d find the seasons getting out of whack everyone use Universal time. So, when it’s 7 o’clock it’s 7 o’clock everywhere.
with the calendar. Hundreds of years ago it was essential to know when it was time To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck
to plant your crops lest they get frozen at either end of the growing season. The Speaking of time and rational calendars maybe it would make sense to mark years
decimal part is almost 0.25 so we add a day every fourth year to keep the seasons from the Big Bang instead of the birth of Christ, so this issue of Compass comes out
in line. But that’s a little too much so every 100 years we should have a leap year on February 1st, 13,750,000,001. That might be a little cumbersome!
but we do not — EXCEPT if that year is also divisible by 400. So 1900 was not a leap
year but 2000 was. See? Scott Welty is the author of The Why Book of Sailing, Burford Books, ©2007.

!
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DDED
JET A
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 Isla
Po nd
Chanticleer
In other countries far away,
ets
Cockerels crow at break of day,
But in these islands, all day long,
The cocks sing out their lusty song!

Are they dotish? Don’t they know

That daybreak is the time to crow?
Not the middle of the night
When not a crack of dawn’s in sight!

They shatter all my peace and quiet

With their unholy screeching riot.
Waking up and dropping off,
Erratic noise makes sleeping tough.
FEBRUARY 2012 Maybe they think it turns on hens,
Perhaps it does, but then again,
 ARIES (21 Mar - 20 Apr) I think the birds are making style,

PASSAGES
Venus enters Aries on the 8th to bring a high tide Asserting presence, all the while
and fresh breeze to your love life. Give yourself up
to some fun and relaxation and just enjoy it. I’m plotting how I’ll get a gun,
To shoot them, every single one!
Then I think with some contrition,
 TAURUS (21 Apr - 21 May) Are they worth the ammunition? Back on the mooring, we sit in the quiet
This will be a light-hearted time for you and a of the awning’s darkening shade.
good time to invest in cruising camaraderie. Get Perhaps some poison in their food? The waves are behind us now, in the wake
your friends together for a party on board for the But that would not do any good, of the day’s sail. No need for the cockpit drain
full moon on the 7th. Hens would eat it. They would sicken, that spills the waters from the rain and spray.
What would I do without my chicken? We shift the gear to neutral and shut the engine
down. Silence, no rattling rpms to cover
PAGE 38

 GEMINI (22 May - 21 Jun) I like it roasted, boiled or fried, Buffet singing from the weathered
Time to hoist your creative sails and raise your Suppose my omelets were denied? speakers flanking the companionway.
verbal skills. There will be lots of opportunities to How I’d suffer! So I shrug
use both this month with positive results. And go and buy some good earplugs! The gel coat fades and ages in the evening
beneath the frayed flag, framed by the stays,
flying above the lazarettes’s filigreed runes
CANCER  (22 Jun - 23 Jul)
— Nan Hatch that trace the days of errant years.
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Your love life may have to navigate some heavy The jammer holds the molding sheet again,
swells this month, so strap on your harness and the anemometer reads its gentle knots,
connect the autopilot; it may be a bumpy ride. and the engine gauge measures a steady zero.
We swing about in the harbor’s tides,
having come to port before the end of day.
 LEO (24 Jul - 23 Aug)
Things will get hot and heavy in the romance When sailing, as in life, we need a compass
department. Try not to burn yourself out in your to chart the marks of our intended course
enthusiasm for hogging the helm. while sipping cabernet from plastic ware.

 VIRGO (24 Aug - 23 Sep)

Your energy will be wallowing in a trough of inde- — by John Ranahan
cision so this could be a good time to set the hook
FEBRUARY 2012

and withdraw into a good book.

 LIBRA (24 Sep - 23 Oct) jerry king

Currents may be contrary in your love life so
concentrate on your ingenuity and gift of the gab to
keep you on a steady course.

SCORPIO (24 Oct - 22 Nov)

Hold your tongue this month or you could alien-
ate crew and friends. Don’t let inventive and com-
municative squalls blow you away; skies will clear
and you’ll get back on course in the third week.

SAGITTARIUS (23 Nov - 21 Dec)
You will have light fluky winds on the course you
have chosen, just enough to test your sense of
humor but not enough to force you off course.

 CAPRICORN (22 Dec - 20 Jan)

There will be a few rain showers where romance
is concerned after the 8th. Keep heading for your
chosen landfall and work on finishing up boat proj-
ects to distract you from feeling sorry for yourself.
Next month looks good for new interests and
opportunities.

 AQUARIUS (21 Jan - 19 Feb)

Your creative juices are flowing. Crew and cruis-
ing pals are cooperative and will let you talk them
into almost anything. You will make excellent
headway during the first two weeks it you set your
mind and your sails toward a specific goal.

PISCES (20 Feb - 20 Mar)

As romance sails out of the harbor your creative
skills will be stimulated. Take advantage of this in
the third week and your social life will be so busy
you’ll barely have time to mope.
 CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER
andd now Trevor
T lled the way th
d th through
h a thi
thicket
k t off b
brambles,
bl clinging
li i vines
i andd shrubs
h b
overhung by tall trees. Ernie stopped himself from complaining about the scratches

CAUGHT AGAIN
and itches on his legs and arms or that his flip-flops kept on catching on roots and
spiky things, throwing him onto his hands, and of course Trevor pretended he
enjoyed it all and managed to whistle a tune or two.
At last they reached the top of the ridge, red in the face and dying of thirst but
there below them was a little bay and the bright blue sea. They scrambled down
by Lee Kessell beside the high, chain link fence that turned out to be the border of the Hess Oil
Company tank farm, and threw themselves into the water.
“You’ve got us both into trouble again, Trevor. What are we going to tell your uncle “We’ve done it!” crowed Trevor, but Ernie wailed, “Where is the road? Where is the
when he gets here?” transport? We’ll have to go all the way back again.”
“Oh, I’ll think of something, Ernie.” But in truth Trevor was quaking in his shoes. But Trevor refused to give up. “We’ll sneak through the fence and get back to the
If they had been in Barbados, Ernie’s Uncle Solly would be easy to get around, but road in a jiffy.” So he climbed up along the fence until he found a break in the bottom
here in St. Lucia? of the chain link that some animal had undermined and pushed himself through.
Trevor’s Uncle Charles and his wife Marissa had offered to have Trevor and his Ernie followed but he protested loudly, “We’ll be caught for trespassing and get into
cousin to stay with them for a week while Trevor’s mum and dad took a week’s a lot of trouble.”
holiday in Florida, but as usual, it wasn’t long before Trevor’s spirit of adventure had “Poof, what can they do, jail us?”
got them into trouble. It all started when Trevor asked his Uncle Charles if he and Well, Ernie was right and as the boys walked along behind a huge tank, a
Ernie could take a transport down to Marigot Bay from Castries and spend the day guard with a gun holster at his side came towards them, “Where do you think
swimming and poking about. Uncle Charles said it was okay, as Trevor was a year you’re going?”
or so older than his cousin and appeared to be a sensible young man. He warned Trevor stammered out his story, but the guard took out his handcuffs, cuffed the
them to be home by 4:30 at the latest. two boys together and prodded them up to the main gate.
Trevor and Ernie set off with enough money to pay for their bus fares and to buy a “Boys like you end up in criminal court. Who’s responsible for you? Your dad?”
bake and a soft drink for lunch. Once at Marigot Bay, a popular tourist resort with its Trevor told the guard about his Uncle Charles and gave the man his telephone
beach and shady coconut palms, the boys hopped on a little ferry to the sand spit where number and that’s where our story began. When Trevor saw the thunderous look on
they splashed about in the shallows, kicked water at each other and made a nuisance his uncle’s face he couldn’t think of any excuse and the two boys had to listen to a
of themselves. They lay on their backs under the shade of a coconut palm and before lecture from the guard and then face the music from Uncle Charles. After they had
long Trevor was hungry, thirsty and bored. He bought the bakes and fizzy sodas and climbed into the back seat of the car, they all sat in stony silence until they were
wondered what else they could do. They had the whole afternoon before them. almost back to Castries when Uncle Charles pulled off the road, turned around to face
Suddenly Trevor grabbed his towel, put on his flip-flops and said, “Come on, Ernie! the frightened faces of the boys and gave them a tongue lashing that they would never
We’ll go on an expedition up and over the hill here and see what’s on the other side. It’s forget. They were sent to a training camp for the rest of the week where discipline was
sure to be the sea, so we’ll find a way down and catch a transport back from there.” strictly enforced. Trevor had ample time to repent and Ernie to ignore his cousin.
Ernie didn’t like the sound of this at all and said so. What if they couldn’t get down The only good part was that Uncle Charles said he would say nothing to Trevor’s
to the sea and what if transports didn’t run from there? But Trevor was always con- father because he didn’t want to upset him and he warned the boys to do the same.
fident and said he was going anyway and Ernie could stay behind. Poor Ernie, he Trevor was all for that and told his mum and dad what a great time they had at the

FEBRUARY 2012
had to follow because how could he go back without Trevor? camp, but could he stay with Ernie in Barbados the next time?
The boys followed a trodden path easily half way up the hill, then it petered out The End

CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY

A Tribute to Captain Hugh Mulzac

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
by Norman Faria

The St. Vincent & the Grenadines Coast Guard ship named after Captain Hugh In October 1942 during World War II, as the USA got more involved in the
Mulzac was recently decommissioned. The African Heritage Foundation of St. Vincent Allied effort to defeat Hitler’s Facist regime, Captain Mulzac at age 56 was given
& the Grenadines made attempts to have his namesake ship converted into a museum command of the Liberty ship Booker T. Washington. At first, in keeping with the
rather than being scrapped. Who was Hugh Mulzac? times where crew on both naval and cargo boats were segregated, the authori-
Hugh Mulzac was born in 1886 on Union Island ties wanted to assign only a black crew to the
in the Grenadines. He went to sea after high ship. Captain Mulzac refused to sail under
school, sailing on British vessels. He later attended what he called a “Jim Crow” arrangement. As
the Nautical School in Swansea, in the United he wrote in his autobiography, A Star To
Kingdom, earning a mate’s license. He sailed as a Steer By: “I wanted the most experienced
ship’s officer in World War I, and went to the crew the NMU could supply.” For Mulzac,

PAGE 39
United States, becoming a citizen in 1918. this meant crew of whatever race. The US
He was an important person in the early US Maritime Commission relented.
civil rights struggles of “people of colour” which The Booker T. Washington, carrying vital war
included Hispanics, Asiatics and native Indian supplies such as tanks, aircraft and ammuni-
peoples. He was the first African-American to tion to the European front, made 22 successful
obtain a US Master’s License. This was the rank round trips across the North Atlantic. Partly by
of Captain, which qualified him to skipper an skill and partly by luck, those on board man-
ocean-going cargo ship. Captain Mulzac assisted aged to avoid being torpedoed by the German
immeasurably in opening the doors for a more submarines. The subs sank hundreds of other
equitable and just working environment for all cargo boats with the loss of many sailors. The
races in the merchant marine service. This was at efficient operation of Mulzac’s ship was a
a time when the only jobs at sea for ethnic minor- model for others to emulate.
ities were as cooks and stewards — in contrast In 1947, after the War ended, the ship’s own-
with today when many large US navy and “cargo ers laid up the vessel. Captain Mulzac was out
boats”, as islanders refer to merchant marine ves- of work. He was then 61. He tried his hand at
sels, are captained by non-white officers. painting maritime scenes and also started a
Captain Mulzac’s early days in the US were frus- wall-painting business.
trating. He got a job as a Mate on the aging tramp At this time, the anti-left current in US poli-
steamer Yarmouth belonging to Marcus Garvey’s tics known as McCarthyism unjustly black-
all black-owned and black-crewed Black Star Line. listed Captain Mulzac for his involvement in
That line went on the rocks because of institu- progressive and democratic causes. For exam-
tional opposition to the firm’s owners, Garvey’s ple, Mulzac ran as a candidate for president of
United African Improvement Association. In 1922, Captain Hugh Mulzac (at center, wearing glasses) with fellow officers of the borough of Queens in New York City on the
Captain Mulzac went back to cook and steward the Booker T. Washington American Labor Party ticket. He lost but
jobs whenever they came along. It was hard, as he received a relatively high 15,500 votes. The
had a wife and four children to support. New York-based party was much like the social
At that time, the seamen’s trade unions and other organizations had a fairly demo- democratic Labour Party in the UK and later in the Caribbean islands. For this and
cratic system where seamen were hired through the union halls. Captain Mulzac got other perceived indiscretions, he was blacklisted and his Master’s license revoked.
involved with the National Maritime Union, which was formed in 1937. Part of this He could not, for instance, get a captain’s job when the Korean War broke out,
democratic dimension was the union’s multi-racial policies: both black and white because he was deemed a “security risk”.
seafarers were apparently treated equally by the labour body. Such a progressive He fought back and in 1960 a federal judge restored his license. He was then 74.
outlook, however, did not extend to the hiring practices of most shipping companies. He died in New York that same year.
It was easy for Mulzac to support multi-racialism, not only because his grandfa- I read Captain Mulzac’s fascinating book during the 1980s and am indebted to
ther, a plantation owner who once cultivated cotton on Union Island, was white. A most of the fresh information in this article to the Wikipedia website article on
sensitive man educated at St. Vincent’s Boys’ Grammar School, Hugh Mulzac Captain Mulzac and various newspaper articles about him that have appeared.
undoubtedly observed the injustices and discriminatory practices against people of We must remember Vincentian-born Captain Hugh Mulzac. Not only because of
colour in the US at the time. There was a shameful incident when the young (aged his record as a sea captain and his pioneer work in the US civil rights struggles, but
21) Mulzac tried to attend church when his ship called at Wilmington, in the state also to remind us that immigrants to all countries are generally beneficial additions
of North Carolina. He was refused entry because of his colour. His involvement, to a better all-round society.
which he always defended as his democratic right in the great traditions of the US,
with the union channeled this hatred of racial discrimination along a constructive The late Norman Faria was a recreational sailor, a seaman on the Geest line, and
trajectory working for the unity of all the races. Guyana’s Honorary Consul in Barbados.
 hangs a sign: “Mind the Sep”. He’s a funny guy as well!
We convince our friends Sim and Rosie from S/V Alianna to leave their rolly “home

Nimrod’s
base” in Prickly Bay and join us in Clarke’s Court Bay for the weekend. The promise
of free food, a local party, a calm anchorage and pretty environs, gets them to lift the
hook and round the corner. When 5:00PM Saturday arrives and the afternoon rain
showers diminish, the four of us make a move to Nimrod’s, not quite sure what to

Hospitality Shop

by Liesbet Collaert
Left to right: The author, with her husband, Mark, and friends Sim and Rosie
at Nimrod’s
“I’m throwing a party this Saturday and you guys are more than welcome to join,”
Sep offers, while Mark and I sip from our rum and Cokes. “Oh, and feel free to bring
your friends,” he adds. expect. A welcoming Sheldon saying “How are you doing? Welcome to the party!
We are the only customers, this Thursday evening. After a meager barbecue meal at Everybody say EEEYOOH!” sets the mood. During most of the evening, he will
a restaurant by the water, we wanted to check out Nimrod’s Rum Shop. It was hard to accompany us and entertain with famous songs and funny stories. Also during this
believe that we had never made the effort to visit, after hearing a lot about the place evening our “quarter” bottle of rum magically remains full, being topped off by gener-
PAGE 40

from other “local-minded” cruisers and reading about it in Ann Vanderhoof’s book An ous rum offerings…
Embarrassment of Mangoes. The stories were true: Woburn is a small Grenada town Once our little group has ordered the first round of drinks, we take seats on the
with grand hospitality and friendly people. Nimrod’s is the prime example. outdoor patio at the lower level of Nimrod’s Rum Shop. We are the only white people
Owner Sep, epitome of friendliness, courteousness and relaxedness shares his around. The other visitors hang out by the bar or in the kitchen, where an oil down
stories, his smiles, his “bush rum” (wow!) and anything else he has his hands or lips — one of Grenada’s local and famed dishes — is being prepared in a big aluminum
on, while we take in the bar scene. His Rum Shop has a few shelves behind the desk, pot. We girls are invited into the den to follow the process. The pot is filled with root
containing a small selection of dried and canned goods, sodas and eggs. People do vegetables, dumplings, breadfruit, callaloo and meat. It will boil for an extended
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

shop here, but my guess is they need to visit at least ten more of these little shops amount of time, before it is served to all present. When I jokingly ask whether the
to provision for the week. Most swing by for a glass of rum or a local beer and the dish contains chicken feet or fish eyes, the answer is “Of course not! Our oil down is
owner “has to” participate frequently, which contributes to his happy state of mind. prepared with chicken necks, pig snouts and pig tails!” A conversation ensues about
For people like us, Sep has some ice in his freezer, which he serves cut up in a tray, the difference between a pig nose and a pig snout.
and small bottles of Coke to dilute the Special Dark. Above the door to another room —Continued on next page

Word List
FEBRUARY 2012

All these words are hidden in the puzzle above (forward,

backward, up, down, and diagonally). Letters may be in more
than one word.
 —Continued from previous page
When the music is cranked up, the boom boxes blare reggae, soca and calypso and
we can’t keep up any conversation anymore, our company moves to another table
under the big breadfruit tree. Before long, the first dish of free local food is served.
The darkness obscures any recognizable (and unrecognizable) shapes on our plates,
so we gobble most of it up, appreciating the hospitality of our new friends. When a
bite reveals something very fatty or boney, we have the solution in the form of a
hungry stray dog sitting between our chairs. Our table consists of cruisers of four
nationalities and all of us enjoy each other’s company, the local setting and the
abundance of food.

Mark and Sep at the well-worn bar of Nimrod’s Rum Shop

While more stories and songs are being exchanged and more rum is being imbibed,
another dish is in the making. It is called “fish broth” and (based on the bag of tiny
particles the cook showed us earlier and the tentacles with suction cups we decipher
from our flash pictures) involves sea urchins and octopus. It is too dark to see any-

FEBRUARY 2012
thing, but the broth tastes yummy. No begging four-footer needed this time, just a
little bit of extra rum and Coke to help swallow the bits down. When “cruiser’s bed-
time” arrives, our full bellies, light heads and smiling Grenadian friends confirm a
successful, fun and entertaining evening at Nimrod’s.
The hospitality of the Woburn people exceeded all stories and the experience was
one of a kind. After saying goodbye to our hosts, entertainers and cooks, we
exchanged the land for the sea again, with a promise to come back. If it’s not for a
sip of babash, then it is for the island’s best rotis, another Nimrod specialty worth
Preparing Grenada’s national dish: oil down. Callaloo (dasheen) leaves mentioning! Most likely, we’ll return for both….
are added last
Inset: Yummy fish broth made with octopus and sea urchins Liesbet Collaert and her husband, Mark Kilty, are cruising the Caribbean aboard the

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
catamarn Irie. Visit Liesbet’s blog at www.itsirie.com.

PAGE 41
 BVI ON THE CHEAP
by Mark Denebeim
In today’s troubled economic climate it’s good to know there are still some deals out there, even in the pricey
British Virgin Islands. Of course, any time you anchor and snorkel and go ashore for a hike is free, but what fol-
lows is a list of good eats at good prices, and things to do that won’t cost you much if anything, all in the beautiful
BVI. (All telephone area codes are 284; prices are in US$)
Virgin Gorda
The Mine Shaft Café has great views west above the Valley and a rustic miniature golf course, inexpensive burg-
ers, ribs and rotis. Tel 495-5260.
SABA ROCK
Happy hour from 4:00 to 6:00PM, every day includes $2.50
Painkillers, Rum Punch and Carib Beers (it’s normally $8.25
for the mixed drinks and $5 for the beer). Enjoy the hammocks
and view on the east side, free. Tel 495-7711.
Stock Up Every day at 5:00PM watch Josie feed the three-foot-long tar-
pon, free.
on the widest selection and the Grab a mooring for US$25 and get up to 200 gallons of water
and a free bag of ice at their docks.
best prices in Grenada at our two LEVERICK BAY
Tell them you want the Traveltalkonline discount and you get
conveniently located supermarkets. The Carenage: a spot on the dock for $30, which includes up to 200 gallons
Monday - Thursday
of water and a bag of ice. (You pay $25 on a mooring.) Swim in
Whether it’s canned goods, dairy the fresh water pool. Tel 495-7421.
8 am to 5:30 pm Michael Bean’s one-man show, Monday through
products, meat, fresh vegetables Friday until 8:45 pm Thursday, 5:00 to 7:00 PM . Jumby dancers and live band on
Saturday until Fridays, free.
or fruits, toiletries, household goods, 1:00 pm THE BATHS
Tel: (473) 440-2588 In addition to taking the normal trek through these amazing
or a fine selection of liquor and wine, boulders, make sure to explore the far end of Devil’s Bay (avoid
Grand Anse:
Wednesday cruise ship day), then climb up to Top of the Baths
The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Monday - Thursday and enjoy the spectacular view and swimming pool, free.
9 am to 5:30 pm Jost Van Dyke
PAGE 42

Friday & Saturday Anchor in White Bay and enjoy the cool beach bars and free
Hubbard’s until 7:00 pm ring toss at Soggy Dollar, or just hang out in the water with
JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Tel: (473) 444-4573 your own drink from the boat, free.
Enjoy the BVI’s only Chip & Putt Two Hole Golf Course in
front of Ali Baba’s Restaurant, Great Harbor; chip on to the
natural green from the world’s largest sand trap and putt back

☛ REMEMBER
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

and forth between the two cups with flags. Get clubs and balls
from Ali Baba, free. Tel 495-9280.
Camp at White Bay Campground next to Ivan’s: $65 for a
cabin, $45 for an equipped tent, $25 for a bare campsite. Chill
Happy Aaarrgh. Hangin’ with the pirate
to tell our advertisers you at Saba Rock
at Ivan’s all day, free. Tel 495-9312.
Norman Island
Grab a mooring at the Indians, Pelican Island, The Caves or
saw their ad in Compass! Privateer Bay and snorkel the best the BVI has to offer, free (park fees may apply). Anchor in the Bight on the east
side just above the floating bar Willie T, free. Then enjoy the show at Willie T, free (unless you just have to have a
drink or two!).
Tortola
ROAD TOWN/OTHER
There is decent Chinese food at Simply Delicious on Nibbs Road; $6 for two selections plus rice. Tel 494-8766.
The Chicken Shack in the parking lot across from Bobby’s offers $3 chicken legs and $8 ribs.
FEBRUARY 2012

Enjoy Reuben Chinnery on guitar at the Bananakeet, Carrot Bay, Fridays, 7:00PM , free. Tel 494-5842.
Listen to MJ Blues on guitar at Village Cay Marina, Wednesdays, 7:00PM , free.
Hike to the top of Mt. Sage National Park, elevation 1,780 feet, and enjoy the view. Pick magic mushrooms on
the way down. The Park fee is $2, the ’shrooms are free if you find the right cow dung. Getting up the hill requires
an expensive taxi, so try to hitchhike instead.
www.caribbeancompass.com Captain Mulligan’s Golf Driving Range and Nine Hole Mini Golf at Nanny Cay was expected to open as this issue
of Compass went to press. Under $10 for a bucket of balls or nine holes. Tel 494-0602.
The Fish Fry in Apple Bay offers local grilled fish, cheap.
FREE on-line version! Watch the races at Ellis Thomas Downs horse track at Sea Cows Bay, once a month or so.
Check out Bomba’s Full Moon Party at Apple Bay, free entry. Tel 495-4148.
Surf the point at Canegarden Bay, or try Brewer’s or Apple, when there is a north swell, free.
Visit the JR O’Neal Botanical Gardens, Road Town, Monday through Friday, 8:00AM to 4:00PM , $3 visitors, $1
locals. Tel 494-4557.
CANEGARDEN BAY
Don’t go when the cruise ships are in!
The Elmtones play live on Friday and Sunday nights at 7:00PM at the Elm, free. (Great barbecue also, but not
cheap.) But the Happy Table will make you forget what we were just talking about!
Enjoy $3 beers (most brands) at Rhymer’s. Burgers and hot dogs at Stanley’s Welcome Bar are $2 to $5, all day.
There are also Happy Hour $2 tacos at The Clubhouse at Frenchman’s.
Trellis Bay
The best rotis in the BVI are at the Trellis Bar at the Trellis Bay Market: $6 for vegetable and $7 for chick-
en. Their $3 meat pies (baked, not fried) highlight this popular lunch spot for the local workers and others
in the know.
Try the awesome $12 fish sandwich at Trellis Kitchen, and Jeremy is worth the price of admission. Try to follow
him as he spews irrelevant quotes while you attempt to place your order… or are they irrelevant? Tel 495-2447.
Don’t miss the Full Moon Party for the family at Trellis Kitchen and Aragon’s, with Jumby dancers, music and
fire balls, free.
Bellamy Cay
The Last Resort offers a unique one-man original music show on most nights in season, free, with free shuttle
from shore to the island. Tel 495-2520.
Free WiFi
Free WiFi is available at Saba Rock and The Bitter End on Virgin Gorda; Cooper Island Resort; Pirates at Norman
Island; Trellis Bay Market, de Loose Mongoose and the Last Resort at Trellis Bay; Foxy’s, Ivan’s Stress Free and
the Soggy Dollar on Jost Van Dyke; Village Cay Marina and The Pub in Road Town; and at Nanny Cay Residences
and Pusser’s West End on Tortola.
Least expensive but quality bareboat/captain only charter companies
Seabattical, bareboats: wwwseabattical.com
Captain’s Compass: always booked, however
Sanctuary with Capt. Mark: www.oceanbreezetours.com/sanctuary. (St. Martin, St. Barths and Antigua also!) By
the week or by the cabin for near-inclusive regatta party trips.
Free Magazines
All At Sea, BVI Welcome and Caribbean Compass.
Go Sailing — the Wind is Free!

Captain Mark Denebeim offers charters and is writing articles and his memoirs aboard Sanctuary throughout the
Caribbean. For more information visit www.oceanbreezetours.com.
 THE SPICE LOCKER BY SHIRLEY HALL
CM OREA‘S FOODSTORE
PEPPER HEAT
Caribbean cuisine is almost synonymous with hot peppers. Are you one of those
USTIQUE

who brag they can eat the hottest hot pepper and live to tell? Who decides which
pepper is the hottest, and how do they do it?
Peppers are members of the Capsicum genus and capsaicin is the chemical com-
pound that stimulates/irritates nerve endings in the skin, especially the mucus
membranes of the mouth and nose. Because of this irritant ability capsaicin is also
the active ingredient in riot control and personal defense pepper sprays, or Mace.
When the spray comes in contact with skin, and especially eyes, it is very painful.
So how much capsaicin and “heat” does a pepper have? That can be measured by
the number of Scoville heat units, which indicate the amount of capsaicin present
(see chart below). Many hot sauces use their Scoville rating as an advertising gim- • Phone: 452 6621
mick. A solution of pepper extract is diluted in sugar water until the heat is no • 452 6620
longer detectable to a panel of tasters. The degree of dilution rates each pepper type
on the Scoville scale. Thus a sweet pepper, containing no capsaicin at all, has a • 488 8479
Scoville rating of zero, meaning no heat detectable even undiluted. However, the hot-
test chillis, such as habanero, have a rating of 300,000 or more, indicating their • 488 8634
extract needs to be diluted 300,000 times before the capsaicin is undetectable. The • Fax: 456 5230
only problem with the Scoville Test is it relies on human subjectivity of the tasters.
Pepper heat is also measured by using high performance liquid chromatography
known as the ‘Gillett Method’. This identifies capsaicin chemicals and weighs them Your #1 Choice for Provisioning in the Grenadines
to the ability to produce a sensation of heat. Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables & Choice Meats
Both ‘heat’ testing methods are quite variable and, although a good subject for Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm
conversation, conjecture and comparison, neither can be deemed accurate or pre- Sunday & Public Holidays: 9am to 11am
cise. Let your own taste buds determine what is hot and hotter. When you taste a
pepper, especially with the seeds and inner membrane, it is common to experience
a pleasurable, almost sweet taste initially. This might only last for a split second
before the gag reflex takes over, and you rush for a heat extinguisher. Cold milk is
the most effective solution against the burning sensation, and a cold sugar-water
solution is almost as effective. The burning sensation will slowly fade away in no

FEBRUARY 2012
more than six hours if no remedies are taken.
Why do people love the taste and pain associated with the hot pepper? The pain caused
by the capsaicin causes endorphins to be generated in the body. Endorphins are “plea-
sure chemicals”, and their bodily response lasts longer than the heat/pain sensation.
Trinidad’s Got the Hottest
What is the hottest pepper? According to the most recent Guinness Book of World
Records, Trinidad’s Scorpion Butch T pepper is the hottest pepper in the world. A
laboratory test conducted in March 2011 measured a specimen of Trinidad
Scorpion Butch T at 1,463,700 Scoville units. According to Wikipedia, this pepper
is a strain of the Trinidad Scorpion named after Butch Taylor, the owner of a hot

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
sauce company who is responsible for propagating the pepper’s seeds. The peppers
are called “scorpion” because the pointed end of the pepper is said to resemble a
scorpion’s stinger.
Want to have the hottest cockpit? Grow hot peppers in pots. Soil should be well
drained with a pH of 7 to 8.5, with exposure to full sun and minimal water, just right
for a boat’s galley garden. WE ARE SITUATED IN
CALLIAQUA, ST. VINCENT
or you can call us at
Tel: 456-2987 or Fax: 456-2983
or email at:
We offer an excellent selection of imported cheese, gourmetfood@vincysurf.com
exotic meats, salami, turkey, prosciutto, juices, etc.
Seafood, shrimp, prawns, smoked & fresh salmon, fish,

PAGE 43
lamb, steaks, frozen bread such as baguettes, petit pain,
multi grain breads, croissants, etc.
Provisioning for yacht charters, large or small orders
for restaurants, hotels, villas or simply to enjoy at home
are accepted.

Did You Know?

The heat from a hot pepper is concentrated in the interior veins or ribs near the
seed heart, not in the seeds as is commonly believed. Seeds taste extra hot because
they are in close contact with the hot veins. Hot pepper and hot sauces can make
foods safer because they reduce harmful bacteria on foods. A quarter of the people
on planet Earth eat hot pepper every day.
A Jalapeño Eating Championship held every May in San Antonio, Texas invites the
world’s greatest speed eaters to consume as many jalapeño peppers as possible in
eight minutes. Last year, Patrick Bertoletti ate 275 fiery peppers.
Health Note
Cayenne peppers are reported to reduce blood cholesterol. Chili peppers are said
to inhibit the development of atherosclerosis. Capsaicin helps clear mucus from your
stuffed up nose or congested lungs. More importantly, recent research has indicated
that red chili peppers’ capsaicin may reduce and even stop the spread of prostate
cancer cells. Eating hot peppers can help you lose weight — all that heat after eating
hot chili peppers takes energy and calories to produce! Hot peppers may also help
reduce the risk of high blood levels of insulin associated with Type 2 diabetes.

SCOVILLE HEAT UNITS PEPPER TYPES

15,000,000–16,000,000 Pure capsaicin
5,000,000–5,300,000 Law enforcement-grade pepper spray
855,000–1,463,700 Trinidad Scorpion, Naga Viper
350,000–580,000 Red Savina habanero
100,000–350,000 Habanero, Scotch bonnet
50,000–100,000 Byadgi chilli, Bird’s Eye chilli
30,000–50,000 Cayenne, Tabasco pepper
10,000–23,000 Serrano
3,500–8,000 Jalapeño, Tabasco sauce
1,000–2,500 Anaheim, Poblano chilli
100–900 Pimento, Peperoncini, Banana pepper
0 Bell pepper info@marigotbeachclub.com www.marigotbeachclub.com
FEBRUARY 2012 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44
 Dear Compass,
In the May 2011 issue of Compass there was an
absolutely interesting Letter of the Month from Stuart
Dalgliesh, asking, “Is there an insurmountable rift
between the sailing ‘yachties’ and the power boaters
in general?”
You always have to see issues from both sides. I
think the biggest problem between sailing and motor
vessels is the use of a generator. For years, cruisers
work on the principle of “going green”, which means
enjoying nature with all its beauty and using as little
fuel as possible. Every one of us has to calculate how
READERS' many amps will be needed to satisfy all our electrical
needs. Therefore we equip our boats with solar panels
FORUM and wind generators to charge up our battery banks.
But what is it with the motor cruisers? They run
their generators 24 hours a day, as long as they are in
any anchorage, explaining that they have a modern
boat with all the electrical equipment that is available.
This is only possible for Trinis and Venezuelans,
where the cost for fuel is close to nothing. If they had
to pay US$9 per gallon, as we have to pay in
Martinique, for example, things would no doubt be
completely different.
We cruising sailors live for many years on our
boats. Don’t think we are old-fashioned or poorly
Dear Compass, equipped. We live a modern and up-to-date life. We
I just read the article “Fiberglass Boats and Damage have a stove and oven, a fridge, some have a freezer;
Control” by Hugo du Plessis in the November 2004 all of us have a computer and a radio running, and
issue of Caribbean Compass and agree with his watch videos. A lot of us even have a watermaker and
assessment that it will be impossible to get to the hull a washing machine. We also have a generator, but we
to do any type of damage control. So my question: don’t have that cracker box running for 24 hours!
When I think about damage control on my boat I start And if we are, let’s say, three and more weeks in an
to think about a bigger pump to remove the water, but isolated anchorage — where should the fuel come
I think that’s also flawed because I have no idea as to from? Fact is that power boaters tend to be only
the volume of water coming through, say, a three-foot short-term visitors in any anchorage. We cruising
diameter hole at three feet under the water. Is there a
chart showing the rate of flow of water through differ-
sailors have to show patience for them, and can eas-
ily await the moment when they have to go back to
Blanchard’s

FEBRUARY 2012
ent-size holes at different depths? their fuel stations down south.
Jerry Howard I ask the motor cruisers whether they would like it if
someone parked his car in front of their house and let Customs Services
Hi Jerry, the motor run for 24 hours? Or the neighbour ran a
We forwarded your letter to Hugo du Plessis, marine gas generator day and night? Would you like that? If
St. Lucia
surveyor and author of the comprehensive reference your answer is NO, then you have to think about end- Efficient handling
book Fibreglass Boats (now in its fifth edition), whose lessly using your generator on your boat!
response appears below. On weekends the power boaters, especially in of all your import and export.
By the way, we wonder where you found a copy of
the November 2004 issue of Compass! Our on-line
Trinidad, come out into the bays like bees from a bee-
hive. They lay anchor, mostly with a line to the trees
Brokerage services and
archive only starts with 2007. If any other readers ashore. Fine, they are able to do so, because they do Yacht Provisioning

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
would like a copy of Hugo’s informative article, e-mail not have a six- to eight-foot draft like our sailing
sally@caribbeancompass.com and we’ll e-mail you a yachts have. Now comes the point I don’t understand:
copy. Better yet, buy his book. the powerboat’s engine is shut off, but the generator
CC runs endlessly till the end of the holiday. These people
come out to be in nature, but they don’t hear the birds
Dear Jerry, singing, the frogs croaking, all the other different
Calculation of water flow through a smooth pipe is sounds and the smells of the jungle. Although some of
basic engineering technology. Any book of basic engi- them have really nice and gentle music that we sailors
neering tables will probably help. I bought my copy of can enjoy in the dark evening hours, others put the
the small Pocket Book of Engineering Tables by radio on at such high volume that the sound blasts the
Professor Lowe, written in 1888, when a first-year narrow bay from all sides. Maybe they need that noise
engineering student and have referred to it often level to drown out the noise of their generators.
throughout my career. From this and other tables your Cruisers who have spent time in Trinidad have Tel: (758) 458-1504
answer is approximately 50 gallons a minute (proper already gotten used to this phenomenon. We anchor
Fax: (758) 458-1505

PAGE 45
Imperial gallons, of course). somewhere else while the power boaters use their bays
But the most important part is that word “approxi- from Friday afternoon till Sunday evening — as noisy Cell: (758) 484-3170
mately”. The calculation of water flow is so bound up and smelly as they want. (I mention as well the huge blanchardscustoms@yahoo.com
with constants and allowances for different shapes amounts of small motor vessels, filled with people with
that it is really not much help when dealing with any beer and other alcoholic drinks in hand, coming into www.blanchardscustomservices.cbt.cc
orifice other than a smooth pipe. And “another orifice” Scotland Bay on Sundays at about 5:00PM , to circle
is what you will have in the event of damage to a fiber- around at high speed and give their last hurrah. It
glass hull. gives to me the impression of the impulsive finale in a
A nice round hole suggests a plumbing fault and concert. I think that a wind generator on top of a pow-
any boat without accessible sea cocks (throughhulls) erboat doing 20 knots would charge quite a lot into the
in working order — which few on survey ever are — is batteries.) We sailors then have the bays from Sunday
not safe to go to sea. (In any case, more boats sink in night during the week till Friday with all of nature’s
harbour through defective plumbing than shipwreck silence, natural beauty, singing birds, climbing mon-
or storms.)
Fibreglass always fails by splitting (single or linked
keys, croaking frogs, glow worms, and bats.
Looking at the theme from this trade-off perspective, Marine
splits), like torn trousers. A hole can be formed only
through multiple impacts such as result from pound-
the two groups get along quite well together.
I wish happy cruising and secure anchoring to all Insurance
ing. Therefore you will usually be faced with a jagged motor and sailing cruisers. Enjoy life, but not always The insurance business has changed.
split of unknown length and shape, ragged-edged and at the expense of the nerves of others, and with a bit No longer can brokers talk of low rates.
of unknown width, at varying depth, plus random of acceptance of your neighbours — we are not alone! Rather, the honest broker can only say,
impact from waves, all of which and more are relative. To everyone, all the best for 2012, “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!”
Your computer, which every boat (except mine!) nowa- Angelika Gruener There is good insurance, there is cheap
days cannot apparently put to sea without, would S/V Angelos insurance, but there is no good cheap
almost certainly be the first thing put out of action by insurance. You never know how good
the rising water. Hello Compass, your insurance is until you have a claim.
I think you are looking at this from the wrong end. I just want to write to you about the so-proclaimed My claims settlement record
In practice I suggest you should consider the largest Marine Protected Area around Sandy Island in cannot be matched.
pump you a) can afford; b) have power for in any form Carriacou. I know you have covered this issue already
including manual; c) have space to fit; d) can run for in your magazine quite often but I want to inform you
hours (e.g. what is required by an accident mid-ocean and other readers about our experience.
or on a coral reef); e) can back-up for failure, blockage, The whole park is just a moneymaking thing out of
loss or exhaustion of power; and f) …plenty more. us boaters. There is nobody who protects anything:
Then accept that fate will always decree that the the only reason is to collect money from us!
damage is worse than you have planned for. My wife and I came in the beginning of December to I have been connected with the marine insurance
Sorry I cannot be more scientific but this is not Carriacou and while we stayed there we also wanted to business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport
really a scientific question. There are just too many enjoy some time around Sandy island and go diving, with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am
imponderable factors. Rules and regulations are only as now, with the marine protected area, there should able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers
guidance to prevent builders fitting the least they be more fish around — this is what we read in your
think they can get away with. in the Lloyds market.
magazine was the whole intention of this park.
Best wishes, One day during our stay around Carriacou we went e-mail: streetiolaire@hotmail.com
Hugo du Plessis across to Sandy Island and picked up a mooring buoy. www.street-iolaire.com
Lymington, England —Continued on next page
 —Continued from previous page traditional seine fishing, with some restrictions. This is
DIESEL OUTFITTERS N.V. One hour later the patrol boat came and collected a
US$10 fee for the day. Later this day when I jumped in
because we understand the need to have a balance
between conservation and the social and economic
Marine Engineers the water to have a look at our mooring I was sur-
prised to see that those moorings are way too short
needs of a people who are very dependent on the sea for
their livelihoods. The allowed seine fishing is not sup-
New address: and not safe, as on our mooring line the splicing had posed to impact on the species we seek to protect.
Bobby's Marina Airport, Airport Road 32,St. Maarten N. A. already started to open up. The rest of the day we Now, let me hasten to say that having reread your
enjoyed our time on Sandy Island, which is really nice letter, the instances you specifically described I do not
Accessible by dinghy and has now a big park sign on the beach. think all fall within the “safe” practice of seine fishing,
The next morning we woke up on our boat and which the SIOBMPA allows. And even in the cases
were quite surprised that we saw a couple of local where fishing activity is allowed, the boats should cer-
fishing boats anchored around Mabouya Island and tainly not anchor within the protected area. Towing [a
AUTHORISED DEALERSHIP also one on Sandy Island, because we thought that fishing line], also, should definitely not happen within
it is not allowed to fish or anchor inside the park. We SIOBMPA. I have personally seen towing happen, and
AND WARRANTY WORK had two dives arranged for this day with a local dive have had a fisherman speak “fisherman’s language” to
Parts, Sales and Service shop. We were told that there is now another park us (Grenada’s National MPA Coordinator and myself)
fee for divers of US$2 per day or US$10 for a year. when we intercepted his boat. I regret to know that not
When we got picked up from our boat at Sandy only does it happen, but that it seems to be quite
Overhauls, Repairs and Service Island we went first with the dive shop out to the prevalent. As an organization, we must not be seen as
to all Diesel Engines Sisters, which is supposed to be really great diving. a body whose actions fail to match what we teach. I do

Marine and Industrial Generators

Servicing all Gearboxes
Fuel Injector Service
Suppliers of Donaldson Filters
Cel: (599) 556 4967
Fax: (599) 545 2889
PAGE 46

Protected or not?
Fishing activities
in Carriacou’s
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Marina Park have

visitors wondering

On the way out we saw three more fishing boats understand the frustrations that may have led you to
which were towing lines inside the park and another conclude that SIOBMPA is strictly about money.
one circling around the Sisters. However, I can assure you this is certainly not the
The diving itself on the Sisters was spectacular with intent of the project and the declaration of a protected
a shark and eagle rays. It was one of the best dives we area.
have done in the Caribbean. After this dive we went to At the same time we must remember that active MPA
Mabouya Island for another great dive but on the way work in Grenada is fairly new, and we are learning as
over we saw again one of the fishing boats we had seen we go. SIOBMPA has been around for a mere 17
earlier, still towing lines inside the park. We also months. This project is slowly but steadily finding its
FEBRUARY 2012

passed two fish pots close to Mabouya. After we saw legs, relying on very limited resources, both human
this we decided to leave the Sandy Island park and and otherwise. However, it forges ahead, intent on
moved further on to Hillsborough. protecting Carriacou’s priceless marine resources.
The park doesn’t protect anything, as the fisherman With the help of users like yourself, we can learn from
are still fishing as usual inside the park and the park our mistakes and redouble our efforts to achieve our
rangers just might be coming out to collect the moor- conservation goals. We should, however, be careful not
ing fees. And if we dive inside the park we have to pay to suddenly expect “there should be more fish around”.
another fee on top. FOR WHAT? Those fees are defi- Marine conservation, I believe, takes time and hard
nitely NOT for protecting the environment and reefs as but consistent work to yield very noticeable results. I
nobody cares. We spoke also to other boats and they am convinced we will one day get there, hopefully
told us that they had complained already about this to sooner rather than later. In the meantime, however, I
the park rangers but they do not do anything about will not leave you with excuses; instead, I would pledge
this issue. And the patrol boat comes out only for a that we would keep addressing those issues which are

McIntyre Bros. Ltd.

couple minutes a day to Sandy Island to collect money brought to our attention, thus ultimately making
from us yachts and that is it. SIOBMPA more appealing, more attractive, much
We will not stay inside the park in the near future. more irresistible — a true conservation haven.
We are not willing to pay another dollar for unsafe I am happy to share with you the news that SIOBMPA,
moorings, which, by the way, are way too close to each a month ago, participated in an MPA enforcement
TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, other. And we also will not pay another dollar for div- training program, held jointly with other protected
GRENADA W.I. ing or snorkeling inside a park that doesn’t protect areas in Grenada and Saint Vincent & the Grenadines.
anything except maybe the fishermen who are fishing This we hope would have better prepared our wardens
there every day. We are supporting marine parks by to address infractions, such as you described, happen-

YAMAHA
any means but as long as nobody really cares about ing within our protected zones. This was a follow-up
the Sandy Island area, which is in our opinion really effort to myself and other MPA colleagues participating
worth protecting, we refuse to pay another dollar! in a Training of Trainers course in Belize, back in
Kind regards, September 2011. We hope that as a direct result of this
Calvin and Sheryl training effort, we would now be able to better protect
Parts - Repairs - Service Boat Name Withheld by Request the very dear resources we have been challenged to
Outboard Engines 2HP-250HP conserve. Additionally, SIOBMPA personnel received
Duty-Free Engines for Yachts Dear Calvin and Sheryl, training to become certified ReefCheck Eco-Divers early
We passed your letter on to Davon Baker of the Sandy in 2011 and conducted an initial survey right here at
TOURS & CRUISES - CAR & JEEP RENTAL Island/Oyster Bed Marine protected Area. His response Sandy Island (see www.reefcheck.org/news/print.
appears below. php?id=732). This underscores our commitment to
CC keep learning marine protection best practices and to
effectively apply such new knowledge to improve our
Dear Calvin and Sheryl, conservation efforts. Our work has barely just begun.
My name is Davon Baker, and I chair the volunteer, With regard to the moorings, we have diligently
stakeholder board that has oversight for the Sandy sought to ensure that they are very safe, and that
Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA). users are not placed in harm’s way by using them. We
Your e-mail was forwarded to me by two receiving par- are pleased to say that we have successfully eliminat-
ties, including the Caribbean Compass. I am happy to ed past mooring issues, and have not had an incident
PHONE: (473) 444 3944/1555 take a few minutes to respond to your concerns.
When I first read your complaints, I spoke with one of
in nearly a year. Again, I urge users to immediately
inform us of any specific situation that may seemingly
FAX: (473) 444 2899 our wardens. He explained that quite often, users are compromise your safety, so that it may be addressed
of the perception that absolutely no fishing is allowed and rectified. Together we can make this work.
email: macford@caribsurf.com within the MPA. SIOBMPA, however, does allow for —Continued on next page
—Continued from previous page me and the unarmed security guard just inside.
I am also very pleased that you enjoy Sister Rocks I discovered the loss a few hours later and went back
and rate it so highly. Thank you. We do hope that we to the AFOO supermarket and asked if my wallet was
can boast of other areas like this in years to come. And found. The checkout clerks and the security guard
I do hope that you would return in person to see that expressed no knowledge of it. Neither of them seemed
we are indeed serious about protecting marine life. I concerned about what happened outside the store.
wish that persons who are dissatisfied with our work, The incident could have been prevented if the secu-
those who feel that complaints to our wardens fall on rity guard had simply gone to the exit and either pre-
deaf ears, and especially those who have been threat- tended to or actually taken pictures of the team with
ened within the MPA, would contact the board directly his cell phone. That would have dispersed them with-
at siobmpa@gmail.com and even copy it to me at dkm- out confrontation.
baker@gmail.com. I wish that your sincere complaints Since I had prior experience with pickpockets, I had
would stir within all of us involved in this project the less than one hundred dollars in US currency in the
urgent need to steadfastly work towards our proposed wallet along with a debit card and an out-of-date
goals. Thank you for helping to remind us where our driver’s license. A phone call to my bank cancelled the
focus needs to be. card and when I receive a replacement some six weeks
I look forward to having you back and wish you great from now I will no longer carry it in my wallet.
sailing in 2012. Currently I am wrapping a rubber band about my
Sincerely, large bills and my last credit card and hiding them in
Davon Baker a front pocket.
Carriacou Karl on Cochi

Dear Compass, Hi Compass,

On Sunday, the 27th day of November 2011, the I knew there was something missing in my life here
skipper of Baleeiro passed away. in Puerto La Cruz recently, apart from cooking oil,
The mizzenmast of his ketch fell on power lines in milk, and nightlife — Compass!
a Trinidad shipyard, and he did not survive the high- So I made a connection and found it on line. Wow:
voltage shock. He leaves behind a truly loving and I’m blown away!
faithful wife and mate, and a wounded boat, which This is great — so easy to use and with terrific qual-
undoubtedly was looking forward to seeing the ity images, plus the goldmine of unique information
Pacific waters. and knowledge stored in the archives. No more search-
Having been around at the time of the disaster, I can ing through piles of tatty clippings from old issues.
only say that I believe fatigue influenced that split- Congratulations!
second decision that led to tragedy. I am also going digital, I have put an e-version of my
To whoever is eager to finally put their boat back in book, A Small Slip, on Kindle (available at Amazon.
the water, as Geraldo was, and as I have been, let it be com) and am finishing a new e-book to follow it.
known that rushing to get rid of the amazing clutter I’m sure Compass will have a very successful 2012;
and unbelievable mess piling up on deck, as well as such excellence merits nothing less.

JANUARY 2012
around it and underneath it, asks for Murphy’s Law. Best wishes,
To all, fair winds, blue skies! Cris Robinson
Alexandra Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela
S/V Blue Wind
Editor’s note: A Small Slip is the true story of how
Hello Compass Readers, cruisers Cris and his wife, Anne, after their Starlight of
The following describes an incident that cruisers Mersea was wrecked at Las Aves, ran a boatyard and
should be aware of. marine railway on Isla de Plata, Venezuela.
About noon on Saturday, December 10th, 2011 I
had my wallet stolen as I was leaving the AFOO super-

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
market in Phillipsburg, St. Maarten. To my chagrin, it Dear Compass Readers,
was taken by a highly professional team using tech- We want to hear from YOU!

FEBRUARY
niques that go back centuries — techniques described Be sure to include your name, boat name or shoreside
in Oliver Twist, for example. address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by
As my guest and I entered the store from the side e-mail) if clarification is required.
entrance we noticed a number of people loitering We do not publish individual consumer complaints or
about outside the exit. Since they were a mix of men individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!)
and women and they just seemed to be waiting, we We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your
gathered the items we came for and went to the check- name may be withheld from print at your request.
out stand. After paying for the goods and sharing the Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play.
load between us we headed for the exit. There we had Send your letters to:
to work our way through the group as they were all but sally@caribbeancompass.com
blocking the exit. As we passed, a scuffle broke out, or
and my guest and I were momentarily separated. At Compass Publishing Ltd.
this point I believe my wallet was taken from my hip Readers’ Forum

PAGE 47
pocket — not that I realized it at the time. If I had Box 175BQ, Bequia VC0400
noticed it, I expect it would have gone badly for both St. Vincent & the Grenadines

—Continued from page 9 …Business Briefs

Cruisers interested in visiting Cuba and navigating the northern coast safely will be especially pleased at the
availability of NV Charts’ two regions, northwest and northeast, because they are simply not available anywhere
else. Cuban charts certainly existed before, mostly surveys done by and for Soviet vessels, but one cannot easily
locate or buy these charts.
Surveyor specialists from NV have been on the move surveying the Cuban coast in anticipation of more yachts
making Cuba a destination. Having charted harbors, checked geo-referencing points and double-checked
VACANCY COMPOSITE/PAINTING
buoys and lighthouses, NV Charts has the newest cartography in both paper and digital format including naviga- TECHNICAL SUPERVISOR
tion software for Cuba. NV Charts also covers the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, the entire Caribbean, Florida, and
much more. We are currently accepting applications
For more information visit www.nv-charts.com. for the above vacancy to manage the boatyard's
Composite/Painting team.
Read My Book!
Sandra Johnston reports: My husband Paul and I sailed for 23 years on our sailboat, Quarterdeck. We slowly The ideal candidate will have:
made our way around the world. It’s a wonderful life and a reasonably inexpensive lifestyle. I just published an • Knowledge and experience with
e-book, The World is My Oyster, about our adventures through Amazon on Kindle. It’s in the travel section. You structural/exotic composite projects
don’t need a Kindle: you can download it to your computer. I hope we can encourage you to explore further in • Experience in working with composites
your sails! and laminates within a boatyard environment
• Suitable certification
Simply Carriacou • Knowledge and experience with topside
Simply Carriacou is a gift boutique located on Main Street in Hillsborough, Carricaou, and showcasing hand- preparation and painting (AwlGrip experience a plus)
made arts and crafts from Grenada, Carriacou and Petite Martinique. The gifts include handmade gold and silver • Knowledge of present market value of composite
jewelry, T-shirts, hand-painted calabashes, tiles and driftwood, aromatherapy products using essential oils from and painting jobs (preparation of estimates/quotes)
locally grown and harvested herbs, books by Richard Keens-Douglas, Alexis Andrews, and other local authors, a • The ability to interact with customers re: selling work
range of designer beach wear by Silhouette (Grenada), original oil and acrylic paintings by local artists, and • Be able to work to very high standards
underwater photographs by local divers. of finish and finesse
Simply Carriacou is also a tourist services agency. These services include villa rentals, accommodation booking, • Be flexible to work to production deadlines
car rental, tours and excursions • Be able to work as part of a team
For more information visit www.simplycarriacou.com. • Sailing experience
• Languages a plus

Interested parties should apply to

info@grenadamarine.com. Grenada Marine

www.caribbeancompass.com is the largest boatyard on Grenada.

Visit our website at www.grenadamarine.com
 CREW VACANCIES! LETTER OF THE MONTH
email: crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com Dear Compass Readers,
TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across What Don Street says should not be taken lightly. He has an enormous amount of
six destinations in the Caribbean. experience and is a highly accomplished sailor and writer. What he wrote in the January
2012 Caribbean Compass is wisdom that can only come from knowing the task at hand
We are the fastest growing charter company, and having dealt with it any number of times and in many different ways. Nothing in
operating TERM CHARTERS, all inclusive, 7 days. my response to Don can rebuke or diminish the value of his point of view.
There are however, some caveats that should not be overlooked.
We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. The entirety of the discussion and the pros and cons of various routes originates
We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. with the question, “What is the best way to go from North America to the Caribbean?”
The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork
between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be.
Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence.
Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking.
Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus.
We offer full training onsite in the Caribbean.
This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and
have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job.
Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply.
If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please
use this email address:
crew@tradewindscruiseclub.com
or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth,
Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines
Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550

There is, and has been for a very long time, a significant problem with this question.
PAGE 48

That problem is the definition of “What is the Caribbean?” Don has always defined
the Caribbean as the Lesser Antilles: the Virgin Islands to Grenada. There is great
support for that definition, notwithstanding that such a definition is based on precon-
ceived notions of what the Caribbean really is. The Caribbean covers 1,000,000
square miles and includes the Lesser Antilles, the Greater Antilles, the southeast
Caribbean (Venezuela and the ABC islands) and the southwest Caribbean (Colombia
through Mexico).
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

Don has always made a case for the “offshore route to the Caribbean” which he
defines as leaving the mouth of the Chesapeake at an appropriate time and heading
for the Virgin Islands. The Caribbean 1500 uses that route, as well, through an
organized rally.
Some cruisers try to get their “easting” out of the way by heading to Bermuda;
another offshore route to “The Caribbean”. There are also those who do not like off-
shore routes and follow what is called a “Thornless Path to The Caribbean”. Bruce
FEBRUARY 2012

PICK UP!
Ahoy, Compass Readers! When in Bequia, pick up your free monthly copy of
the Caribbean Compass at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue
appear in bold):

PORT ELIZABETH
Bequia Bookshop
Bequia Post Office
Bequia Tourism Assn.
Bequia Venture
Frangipani Hotel
Friendship Rose Office
Imperial Pharmacy Van Sant is savvy and knows this path like few others. His book is a milestone on
Lulley’s Tackle traveling to the Caribbean by “island hopping” all the way and by using weather in
Piper Marine our favor to get there. While Don Street does not like this method, I believe that for
PortHole Restaurant those who cannot go offshore for whatever the reason, the method makes a great
Wallace & Co. deal of sense provided you want to get to the Eastern Caribbean without going off-
BELMONT WALKWAY shore. All of these routes and points of view have one thing in common: they all
Fig Tree Restaurant define “the Caribbean” as the Eastern Caribbean.
Mac’s Pizzeria The map shown at the top is excellent because you can see how vast the Caribbean
OCAR Sea is. What is the easiest and safest way to come from the east coast of North
Grenadine Sails America to the Caribbean? I agree with Don and also do not like the Bermuda route
GYE to the Caribbean. It is much too complicated and far too tricky! Whether you argue
LOWER BAY for spring, fall or, in Don’s case, September, the Bermuda route is a route, but I
Bee’s Café cannot imagine why anyone would choose it.
De Reef Restaurant Given the prevailing winds, if we redefine “the Caribbean” to be that part of the
Fernando’s Hideaway Caribbean closest to us, we can enter through the Windward Passage. Once through
PAGET FARM the Passage we are in the Caribbean Sea. We will no longer be in the Atlantic Ocean
W&W Supermarket and no longer be on a lee shore.
—Continued on page 53
 CALENDAR

FEBRUARY
2 World Wetlands Day. www.ramsar.org
3-5 Club Náutico de San Juan International Regatta, Puerto Rico.
Club Náutico San Juan (CNSJ), www.nauticodesanjuan.com
4-5 Around Martinique Race. Club Nautique Le Neptune (CNN), Martinique,
tel (596) 51 73 24, fax (596) 51 73 70, www.clubnautiqueleneptune.com
4-6 Scotiabank Workboat Regatta, Grenada.
www.grenadasailingfestival.com
2008 89’ Catana 2007 73’ Executive
7 FULL MOON €4.900.000 $2,000,000
7 Public holiday in Grenada (Independence Day)
11 – 12 Interlux One Design Regatta, St. Maarten. St. Maarten Yacht Club
(SMYC), tel (599) 544-2075, fax (599) 544-2091, info@smyc.com,
www.smyc.com
11 – 12 Jolly Harbour Valentine’s Regatta, Antigua. Jolly Harbour Yacht Club
(JHYC), Antigua. tel (268) 770-6172, regattas@jhycantigua.com,
1999 60’ Fountaine Pajot 2007 50’ Catana
www.jhycantigua.com $619,000 $950,000
12 – 19 Holetown Festival, Barbados
17 – 19 Sweethearts of the Caribbean and Classic Yacht Regatta, Tortola.
West End Yacht Club (WEYC), Tortola, BVI, tel (284) 495-4559
18 – 20 Martinique Carnival Regatta. CNN, www.clubnautiqueneptune.com
19 Sailors’ & Landlubbers’ Auction, Bequia. www.bequiasunshineschool.org
20 Start of RORC Caribbean 600, Antigua. www.caribbean600.rorc.org
20 Public holiday in Puerto Rico and USVI (Presidents’ Day) 2008 50’ Lagoon 2000 47’ Catana
21 Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race. $749,000 €340,000
www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com.
20 – 21 Carnival Monday and Tuesday in most Dutch and French islands, Haiti,
Puerto Rico, Dominica, Carriacou, Trinidad & Tobago, Venezuela,
and other places
22 Public holiday in St. Lucia (Independence Day)
23 – 26 South Grenada Regatta. www.southgrenadaregatta.com
24 – 25 Around St. Maarten Multihull Race. www.multihullregatta.com

FEBRUARY 2012
25 – 3 March BVI Kite Jam (kiteboarding). www.bvikitejam.com

MARCH
1 Gill Commodore’s Cup, St. Maarten. www.heinekenregatta.com
2 Public holiday in Anguilla (James Ronald Webster Day)

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
3 Club Náutico de San Juan Club 420 Regatta.
www.nauticodesanjuan.com
5 Public holiday in the BVI (H. Lavity Stoutt’s Birthday)
8 International Women’s Day
8 Public holiday in Guyana and Suriname (Phagwah)
8 FULL MOON
9 Public holiday in Belize (Baron Bliss Day)
9 - 11 St. Croix Yacht Club Hospice Regatta. St. Croix Yacht Club (SCYC),
tel (340) 773-9531, fax 778-8350, stcroixyc@gmail.com,
www.stcroixyc.com
9 - 12 Dark & Stormy Regatta, Anegada, BVI. WEYC, (284) 495-4559
9 – 14 Caribbean Arts and Crafts Festival, Tortola, BVI. dreadeye@surfbvi.com
9 – 18 St. Patrick’s Festival, Montserrat. www.visitmontserrat.com
10 - 11 Banana’s Cup Regatta, Martinique. Yacht Club de la Martinique (YCM),
tel (596) 63 26 76, fax (596) 63 94 48, ycmq@wanadoo.fr,

PAGE 49
www.ycm972.org
10 - 11 Annual Laser Open, Antigua. Antigua Yacht Club (AYC),
tel/fax (268) 460-1799, yachtclub@candw.ag,
www.antiguayachtclub.com
10 - 11 Wahoo Tournament, Trinidad. http://ttgfa.com/events
12 Public holiday in Commonwealth countries (Commonwealth Day)
12 – 17 ClubSwan Caribbean Rendezvous. www.nautorswan.com/ClubSwan
14 Public holiday in St. Vincent & the Grenadines (National Heroes’ Day)
14 – 17 Caribbean Superyacht Regatta & Rendezvous, BVI.

15 – 18
www.superyachtregattaandrendezvous.com
Race Cayman Week 2012: 6th International Invitational J/22 Regatta, ST. THOMAS YACHT SALES
and Open & Western Caribbean Optimist Championship. www.sailing.ky Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28,
16 – 18 Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta. St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802
www.prheinekenregatta.com
17 Public holiday in Montserrat (St. Patrick’s Day).
St. Patrick’s Day Festival, Grenada Tel: (340) 779-1660
17 – 24 Russian Business Caribbean Sailing Week, Falmouth Harbour, Antigua. Fax: (340) 779-4803
http://rusregata.ru/regata/winter2010 yachts@islands.vi
20 Vernal Equinox
20 Sunshine School Annual Jumble Sale, Bequia.
www.bequiasunshineschool.org
22 – 25 St. Barth’s Bucket. www.bucketregattas.com/stbarths Exposure Miss Goody
23 – 25 International Rolex Regatta, St. Thomas, USVI. www.rolexcupregatta.com 36’ 1993 Prout Snowgoose 43’ 1987 Marine Trading
24 OECS Open Water Swimming Championships, Nevis. windsurf@sisterisles. Excellent Condition Sundeck, Washer/Dryer
$119,000 $85,000
kn Sail
26 – 1 April BVI Spring Regatta and Sailing Festival. www.bvispringregatta.org
30 Public holiday in Trinidad & Tobago (Spiritual Baptist “Shouter” Liberation Day) 37’ 1977 Tartan, well maintained, stack pack, AP $39,000
38’ 1967 Le Comte, Northeast 38, classic, excellent cond. $78,500
All information was correct to the best of our knowledge 43’ 1976 Gulfstar, Yanmar 75HP,low hrs. AP, $45,000
at the time this issue of Compass went to press — but plans change, s 50’ 1978 Nautor MSailer, refit, excellent cruiser $249,000
o please contact event organizers directly for confirmation.
If you would like a nautical or tourism event listed FREE in our monthly calendar, Power
please send the name and date(s) of the event and the name 26’ 1997 Grady White, cuddy cabin, twin Yamahas $36,000
and contact information of the organizing body to 40’ 2002 Corinthian 400, Twin Yanmars, Express Cruiser $250,000
sally@caribbeancompass.com 42’ 1984 Present Sundeck, 135HP Ford Lehmans, needs wk $39,000
48’ 2004 Dyna Craft MY, 450 Cats, 3 strms $295,000
FREE Caribbean Compass On-line FREE
Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale
www.caribbeancompass.com www.stthomasyachts.com
 Caribbean Compass Market Place

CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE

Land and houses for sale
For full details see our website:
www.carriacou.net
or contact Carolyn Alexander at
Carriacou Real Estate Ltd
e-mail: islander@spiceisle.com
Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290

We also handle Villa Rentals &

Property Management on Carriacou FLAGSWINDCARTEPDF

NEILPRYDE Sails
Grenada
Check out our website or contact us directly
PAGE 50

for a competitive quote on rugged and

well-built sails that are well suited to the
harsh environment of the charter trade
and blue water cruising.
Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

www.neilprydesails.com

SMS
Marine Diesel
Andre SIOU
Marine Engine Repair
- Diesel & Gasoline
FEBRUARY 2012

• rare exotic arts + crafts • jewelry

• wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts Reverser, Generator
for your boat, home + friends Hydraulic Systems etc.
young street st. george's grenada
just steps from the carenage Zone Artimer, Tel: +596 (0) 696 77 82 29
tel: (473) 440-2310 fisher@caribsurf.com siou.andre@orange.fr
MID ATLANTIC
YACHT SERVICES
PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES
Providing all vital services to
Trans-Atlantic Yachts!
Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Pilots, Rigging
Marine Electrics
EU-VAT (16%) importation
Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) Watermakers
TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 Zac artimer - Le Marin, Martinique FWI
mays@mail.telepac.pt
www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Tel: + (596) 596 650 524 Fax: + (596) 596 650 053
yescaraibes@hotmail.com

Voiles Assistance
TechNick Ltd. Didier and Maria
LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE
Engineering, fabrication and Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication)
welding. Fabrication and repair of located at Carenantilles dockyard
stainless steel and aluminium items. Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm
Nick Williams, Manager Saturday by appointment
Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32
S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada e-mail: didier-et-maria@wanadoo.fr
technick@spiceisle.com
continued on next page
 Caribbean Compass Market Place

Marin, Martinique ARC DYNAMIC BOAT PAINT & STUFF

• Bar Specialist in welding, Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin
machining & fabrication sxm.yffic@domaccess. com
• Restaurant Managing Director
Lawrence Lim Chee Yung ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST: US NAVY PRODUCT
• Snack aka ‘Chinaman’. (PPG Ameron)
Opening Hours Happy Hour Every Day Rebuild and repair all types of machinery COPPERCOAT Permanent Antifouling
Fabrication of pulpits, stanchions, davits, chainplates, (10 years and more…)
from 7AM - 11PM from 6 - 7PM
anchor brackets, solar panel, arches & more Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins
Telephone: 0596 74 60 89 Rodney Bay Boatyard, Gros Islet, St. Lucia Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat
WIFI Connection for our Guests Tel: (758) 485-0665 or (758) 384-0665 Phone: + (590) 690 221 676
www.restaurant-mangobay.com e-mail: limcheyung34@yahoo.com

ROGER'S OUTBOARD SERVICE

St. Lucia
OFFERS PROMPT AND EFFICIENT REPAIRS
AND SERVICING OF ALL MAKES
OF OUTBOARD ENGINES.
WE PICK UP AND DELIVER

FEBRUARY 2012
TO AND FROM RODNEY BAY MARINA.
ALSO AVAILABLE ARE PRE-OWNED
RECONDITIONED OUTBOARD ENGINES.
CALL ROGER AT (758) 284-6050

WALLILABOU

CARIBBEAN COMPASS
RODNEY Sail repairs, biminis,
#ONSUMABLESWINDCARTEPDF

awnings, new sails,

BAY cockpit
rigging, splicing,
cushions,
ANCHORAGE
WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL
SAILS servicing of winches.
Agents for Doyle, PORT OF ENTRY
Furlex & Profurl MOORING FACILITIES
Call KENNY WATER, ICE, SHOWERS
Tel: (758) 452-8648 CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE
St. Lucia or (758) 584- 0291 BAR AND RESTAURANT

PAGE 51
rodneybaysails@hotmail.com TOURS ARRANGED
CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED
HAPPY HOUR 5-6
P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines
GOLDEN TASTE RESTAURANT & BAR Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917
E-mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com
VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills).

Genuine local and international cuisine

right in the heart of Gros Islet
For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792

Rigging THIS COULD BE

Shipchandler
Electricity YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
☛ REMEMBER
Electronic to tell our advertisers you
Book it now: saw their ad in Compass!
LE MARIN, MARTINIQUE tom@caribbeancompass.com
www.caraibe-marine.fr contact@caraibe-marine.fr
Tel: +(596) 596 74 80 33 Cell: (596) 696 27 66 05
or contact your local island agent
continued on next page
 Caribbean Compass Market Place

KERRY’S MARINE SERVICES • FILLERS • STAINLESS FASTENERS • ADHESIVES •

BEQUIA BEQUIA VENTURE CO. LTD

• NAILS • HOSE CLAMPS •

• CLEANING SUPPLIES •
appointed agents in
Marine/Land St. Vincent & the Grenadines for
Mechanical Service
• Diesel / Outboard repair
• Welding / Electrical Primer, Epoxy, Top Coat,
• Refrigeration Antifouling, Thinners
Moorings available PORT ELIZABETH, BEQUIA
Tel: 784 458 3319 • Fax: 784 458 3000
Tel: (784) 530-8123/570-7612 VHF 68 “KMS” Email: bequiaventure@vincysurf.com
E-mail: vanessa_kerry_1@hotmail.com • SPRAY PAINTS • ROLLERS • BRUSHES • TOOLS •

DVD’S FOR SALE

by John Cawsey, Bequia 1 (784) 455-7631
LULLEY‘S TACKLE SHOP or write c/o Post office: Port Elizabeth
# 1 CHOICE IN FISHING & or write 34, Overgang,
SNORKELING & SCUBA DIVING GEAR Brixham TQ 58 AP, England
FRONT ST, BEQUIA ISLAND DVD EC$30
McCOY ST, KINGSTOWN, ST. VINCENT 1. Beautiful Bequia from 1973 - 2011
PAGE 52

UNION ISLAND 80 minutes (₤8.00) or EC$30.00

2. 14 Islands, St. Lucia - Trinidad Carnival
TEL: (784) 458-3420 / (784) 485-6255 & Bequia Music Fest, 90 mins EC$30
FAX: (784) 458-3797 3. Northumberland, Alnwick Castle, Gardens,
E-mail: lulley@vincysurf.com Alnwick Music Festival, Over the Borders
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

into Scotland: 150 mins EC$30.00

4. Saint Petersburg, Russia, A Fabulous City
3 hrs EC$30.00
5. Religious DVD, Including Kathmandu, Bhutan
& Buddhism 2 hrs EC$30.00

THE FIG TREE BEQUIA

GIFT SHOP, RESTAURANT, ROOMS
FEBRUARY 2012

Open Daily from 11am until…

Local Cuisine
Tel: 784 457 3008 VHF 68
figtree@vincysurf.com
www.figtreebequia.com
Belmont Walkway, next to Mac's Pizzeria

Piper Marine Store

Bequia - Port Elizabeth
Rigging, Lifelines
Stocked with lots of marine hardware,
filters, nuts & bolts, impellers,
bilge pumps, varnish & much more.
(784) 457 3856 • Cell: (784) 495 2272 • VHF 68

Imperial Pharmacy ISLAND MARINE SPECIAL

Bequia Port Elizabeth opposite Bank of SVG FIRST CLASS MECHANICAL SERVICE
Feel Better... Live Better! VHF: CH 16 • UNION ISLAND
• NEW CONVENIENT LOCATION
• FULL PRESCRIPTION • Diesel Engines
DRUG SERVICES • Electrical Troubleshooting
• OVER THE COUNTER
PHARMACEUTICALS
•G ds
Generators • Outboards
• MEDICAL ACCESSORIES • Gearboxes
• COSMETICS • TOILETRIES Earl Allen - with over 25 years experience
Tel: (784)458 3373 or personal: (784) 593 2421 Call us - We’ll get you going again!
Fax: (784) 458 3025 E-mail: svd161@yahoo.com Tel: 1 (784) 492 1683 continued on next page
 Caribbean Compass Market Place

Spotless Stainless
Makes Stainless Steel Sparkle.
No Rubbing. No Scrubbing. No Polishing.
%UXVKLW21‡/HWLW:RUN‡5LQVHLW2))
%UXVKLW21‡/HWLW:RUN‡5LQVHLW2))

before after

Available at Island Water World or

www.spotlessstainless.com

FEBRUARY 2012
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
THIS COULD BE Villa For Sale
YOUR
MARKET PLACE AD
BEQUIA
LA POMPE
Beachfront
3 bedrooms
House 3,631sq/ft
Book it now: Lot 11,802 sq/ft.
tom@caribbeancompass.com

PAGE 53
Spectacular Views of Grenadines
or contact your local island agent E-mail: garnisao@gmail.com

—Continued from page 48 …Letter of the Month

We can use the Greater Antilles islands to protect us if we choose to go east and can
count on their high mountains to create katabatic winds at night, which will stall the

Read in Next
tradewinds and even perhaps give us a light offshore wind. There are numerous good
stops along the way from Ile-à-Vache at the west end of Hispaniola all the way to Vieques
and Culebra at the eastern end of Puerto Rico. Additionally, by using this route we do
not have to cross the Mona Passage as when we pass from the east end of the DR to the

Month’s
west side of PR we will be south of it.
Our departure point can vary from the mouth of the Chesapeake to as far south as Hilton
Head, South Carolina. I like Hilton Head because it puts me over 350 nautical miles
closer to the tradewinds. Cape Hatteras is a factor and Don is correct to fear Cape Hatteras;

Compass:
it is a fearful place. Most boats can go farther south of the mouth of the Chesapeake by
using the ICW and avoid the outside passage around Cape Hatteras. For the few boats
whose draft or mast height prevents them from using the ICW, they can either depart from
the mouth of the Chesapeake or wait for good weather and round Cape Hatteras.
The cruising community owes a great debt to cruisers like Don Street and Bruce Van Sant
for all of their work and research in paving the way to the Eastern Caribbean. If I disagree
with anything at all, it would be in a limited definition of “the Caribbean” and, as a result,
the route to get there. The Windward Passage, as an entry into the Caribbean, has been
overlooked by cruising sailors over the years for a variety of reasons that range from how Grenada Sailing Festival 2012
we define the Caribbean to concerns about passing Haiti and Cuba. As a result, we have
either opted for an offshore passage of over 1,250 nautical miles to get to Tortola or we have
“hopped” through the islands with the tradewinds squarely on our bow and a hostile lee
shore to our starboard. Instead, if we cross the Gulf Stream and head south we get a better Hemingway’s Boat
sailing angle, much less time offshore, and shorter offshore distances as we skirt the
Bahamas, and we route along the Caribbean side of the Greater Antilles without the concern
of a lee shore and with an abundance of good harbors and anchorages to choose from.
Take a good look at Figure 1 on page 48 and let the diagram speak for itself. Take out your
Galley Glory: the Pomegranate
chart and your parallel rulers, if you still have them, and plot out the courses. See how they
compare — not just as to distance but as to what waters are being sailed through, and what
coasts are being transited. While any route that gets you there safely is a good route, for a
cruising sailor, the best route is always the safest and easiest sailed route.
… and more!
Frank Virgintino
www.freecruisingguide.com
 CLASSIFIEDS
FURUNO RADAR, Like new, www.nicolacontreras.co.uk/
BOATS FOR SALE Model 1622, Contact Rod Tel: caribbeanhouse.html KEEP THE ISLANDS
(868) 650-1914 / 221-9439 E-mail: caribbeancottage@
btinternet.com BEAUTIFUL…
HYDRAULIC IN MAST FURLING 8th-20th Feb 2012 Local
MAST AND BOOM by Hall Tel: (784) 432-3491 Dispose of your
spars for sale. Triple aft raked
spreaders, deck stepped
OAL: 63ft 7", P: 58 ft, E: 19 ft garbage properly!
53’ HATTERAS CONVERTIBLE 1973 62’ CUSTOM BUILT CHARTER 6" Price $6000.00 Call FKG
1982 CATALINA 32 19.000 US New items include interior, YACHT MCA approved, Marine Rigging Tel: (721)
1997 BENETEAU 36CC 61.000 US generator, paint, bow thrust- beautifully maintained. 544-4733 E-mail: info@fkg-
1999 BAVARIA 38/3 55.000 US er, electronics, etc. Motivated Sleep 8 guests in 2 dbl. and marine-rigging.com
1987 IRWIN 44 MK II 119.500 US owner. Lying St. Martin. 2 twin cabins all with en-
1986 OYSTER 435 135.000 GBP Ask $120,000. Call Doug suite bathrooms. Good TOHATSU 30HP LONG SHAFT best offer
1978/2000 FORMOSA 56 266.000 US (941) 504-0790 E-mail: income, a pleasure to sail Sail boat props 3 blade 13" to 22"
2009 HUNTER 45DS 239.000 US Doug@EdwardsYachtSales.com and admired by many. Tel: from US200, Winches, Barlow,
E-mail Yachtsales@dsl-yachting.com
Tel (758) 452 8531 (784) 532-9224 E-mail Barient, Lewmar from US 250,
makayabella@gmail.com Yanmar 3HM35F complete in
working condition best offer,
Westerbeke 12,5KW - needs repair
- best offer, Aries Circumnavigator
Wind Vane best offer E-mail
Yachtsales@dsl-yachting.com
Tel: (758) 452 8531
CLASSIFIEDS
33’ BERTRAM
FISHERMAN 1987
SPORT
LAND FOR SALE
CARRIACOU LAND, Lots and
US 50¢ PER WORD
46’ PETERSON PERFORMANCE Dual Caterpillar 3208-Turbo 31’ MONSTER OPEN PLEASURE multi-acre tracts. Great Include name, address
CRUISER 1988 Center cockpit, 2 private berth, A/C, Onan BOAT. 2x250 Yamahas. views overlooking Southern
single owner, lovingly main- 8 kw Ideal for private use or Tel: (784) 496-2693/593-7804 Grenadines and Tyrrel Bay. and numbers in count.
tained. Sailed throughout the charter. Location Puerto www.caribtrace.com
Caribbean and now located Rico. Open to reasonable Line drawings/photos
in Trinidad. Ready for you to offers. More info. Tel: (787) GRENADA Approx. area
start cruising tomorrow. 761-6304/316-5287 150,000 sq/ft (3 acres, 1 accompanying classifieds are US$10.
USD 189,999 E-mail rood, 19 poles). US$1 per sq/
SailingOnFree@aol.com ft. Located at The Villa in Pre-paid by the 10th of the month.
Soubise, St. Andrews, 1 1/2
BOATS FOR SALE IN TRINIDAD miles from Grenville by road email: classifieds@caribbeancompass.com
Tel (868) 739-6449 and 1/2 mile from Soubise
www.crackajacksailing.com
PAGE 54

beach. Eastern section culti-

BOMBAY CLIPPER 31' vated with various fruit trees;
Yanmar 3GM, 30hp diesel western section wooded. Telfor
cruise equip, auto pilot, Bedeau Tel: (473) 442-6200

CASIMIR HOFFMANN
depth, Gps, 4 anchors,
PRIVILEGE 37 moored chain, windlass, mooring in RENTALS
Bequia, visit privilegecata- Christian Hbr, $24k or offers
maranjeantot37forsale.com Tel: (340) 244-4155 E-mail RODNEY BAY, 2 BEDROOM APT
or E-mail drbeautyandthe- catrio36@yahoo.com Overlooking Rodney Bay
CARIBBEAN COMPASS

beast@gmail.com Marina, St. Lucia. US$40.00 per

night, all amenities.
1990 BRUCE ROBERTS 434 Tel: (758) 452-0147/720-8432
custom steel cutter/sloop.
For more info: SERVICES
www.alleluiaforsale.com
YACHT DELIVERIES
INTERNATIONAL BLUE WATER
Experienced captain/crew,
USCG 100 ton licensed, power
GRADY WHITE 306 BIMINI and sail. Capt. Louis Honeycutt ,
VIKING 55’ CONVERTIBLE 2004 30.5’, 2000, center console experienced and reliable
Last one built, hull number 115. 2x250 Yamahas, 306gls. gas, Tel: (757) 746-7927
Same cabin layout as newer 48gls water, shwr/head. E-mail info@247sailing.net
56’ and 57’ Vikings, MAN Suitable for fish/dive/tour. www.247sailing.net
1300HP 12 cylinder 1600 hours, Fastload 6 wheel aluminum
42’ SEA RAY SUNDANCER 30 knot cruise @1,900 rpm - 38 trailer included. For more BEQUIA - CLIFF’S FINE
FEBRUARY 2012

1992 with Caterpillar diesels, knot max, Onan genset 17.5 info.Tel: (784) 493-9720 WOODWORKING for yacht or
excellent condition Tel: kW. New teak cockpit sole, home www.bequiawoodwork.
(784) 528-7273 fresh fuel pumps and injectors, 42’ NEWICK TRIMARAN, com Tel: (784) 431-9500 E-mail
fresh bottom paint, Eskimo ice beam 25’. Beam above cliffduncan234@gmail.com
maker, FCI watermaker, full waterline 9’, below 3’. 8-10
electronics, 7’ dinghy with 5HP knts simple sailing, 10-15 knts PROPERTY FOR SALE
outboard, spare set of propel- regatta speed. Balanced sail
lers. Excellent condition ready package, auto pilot, sleeps UNION IS. GRENADINES, STONE
for new owner, Lying Trinidad, 6+, 1st US129K sails it away. COTTAGE swim w/turtles at
berth at TTYC also available. E-mail beachn42@yahoo.com Tobago Cays from here! Sea
US registered. Offers above views over coral reef, full width
US$900,000 E-mail: MISC. FOR SALE covered terrace, big living/
viking55forsale@hotmail.com bdrm, kitchen, bathroom. 875
50' CHEOY LEE EUROPA SAILS AND CANVAS sq/ft in 1/3 acre garden. Mains
PILOTHOUSE 1981 Many EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL electricity, 45000 gls water cis-
improvements since 2008. DEALS at http://doylecarib- tern. Walk to village/beach.
$ 99,000, Call Doug Tel: (941) bean.com/specials.htm Furniture included. Renovated
504-0790 E-mail Doug@ 2010. Potential to further
EdwardsYachtSales.com develop. US$150,000
DON‘T LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT

ADVERTISERS INDEX
ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG# ADVERTISER LOCATION PG#
A Blue Horizon Dominican Rep 47 Doyle Offshore Sails Tortola 4 Lulley's Tackle SVG MP SMS Martinique MP
Anjo Insurance Antigua 33 Doyle's Guides USA 36 Mango Bay Martinique MP SpotlessStainless USA MP
ARC Dynamic St. Lucia MP Echo Marine - Jotun Special Trinidad 10 Marc One Marine Trinidad MP St. Maarten Sails St. Maarten 33
Art & Design Antigua MP Edward William Insurance C/W 46 Marcom Trinidad MP St. Thomas Yacht Sales St. Thomas 49
Art Fabrik Grenada MP Electropics Trinidad MP Marina Bas Du Fort Guadeloupe 18 Sunbay Marina Puerto Rico 15
B & C Fuel Dock Petite Martinique 34 Fernando's Hideaway SVG MP Marina Royale St. Maarten 27 Sunsail Marine Centre St. Vincent 21
Barefoot Yacht Charters St. Vincent 20 Fig Tree SVG MP Marina Santa Marta Colombia 13 SVG Air St. Vincent 37
Basil’s Bar Mustique 30 Food Fair Grenada 42 Marina Zar-Par Dominican Rep 32 Tank and Fuel Trinidad MP
Bay Island Yachts Trinidad 49 Frame Shop Antigua MP McIntyre Bros. Ltd Grenada 46 Technick Grenada MP
Bequia Venture SVG MP Free Cruising Guides C/W 11 Mid Atlantic Yacht Services Azores MP Tikal Arts & Crafts Grenada MP
Blanchards Customs Services St. Lucia 45 Garnis House C/W MP Mount Gay Regatta Barbados 17 Trade Winds Cruising Bequia 48
Boat Paint & Stuff St. Maarten MP Gittens Engines Trinidad MP Multihull Company C/W 49 Turbulence Sails Grenada 41
Budget Marine Sint Maarten 2 Golden Taste St. Lucia MP Neil Pryde Sails Grenada MP Turbulence Sails Grenada MP
BVI Yacht Sales Tortola 48 Gourmet Foods St. Vincent 43 Northern Lights Generators Tortola 5 Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout Carriacou 35
Camper & Nicholsons Grenada 55 Grenada Marine Grenada 41 Ocean Conservancy C/W 44 Velocity Water Services SVG MP
Captain Gourmet Union Island 42 Grenada Tourism Grenada 40 Off Shore Risk Management Tortola 10 Velox Antifouling Curaçao 31
Caraibe Greement Martinique 24 Grenadines Sails Bequia 34 On Deck Antigua MP Venezuelean Marine Supply Venezuela MP
Caraibe Greement Martinique MP Imperial Pharmacy SVG MP Ottley Hall Marina & Shipyard St. Vincent 11 Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour Virgin Gorda 14
Caribbean Marine Electrical Trinidad MP Iolaire Enterprises UK 36/45 Perkins Engines Tortola 9 Voiles Assistance Martinique MP
Caribbean Propellers Ltd. Trinidad MP Island Marine Specials SVG MP Piper Marine SVG MP Wallilabou Anchorage SVG MP
Caribbean Rigging/FKG Antigua 6 Island Water World Sint Maarten 56 Porthole Restaurant SVG MP West Palm Hotel Trinidad MP
Clippers Ship Martinique MP John Cawsey SVG MP Power Boats Trinidad MP WIND Martinique MP
Corea's Food Store Mustique Mustique 43 Johnson Hardware St. Lucia 7 Red Frog Marina Panama 19 Xanadu Marine Venezuela 32
Curaçao Marine Curaçao 31 Jones Maritime St. Croix 45 Renaissance Marina Aruba 16 YES Martinique MP
Diesel Outfitters St. Maarten 46 Kerry’s Marine Services SVG MP Rodger's Outboard Service St. Lucia MP
Diginav Martinique 47 La Playa Grenada MP Rodney Bay Sails St. Lucia MP
Dockwise Yacht Transport Martinique 22 Lagoon Marina St. Maarten 26 Sea Hawk Paints CW 23
Dominica Marine Center Dominica 35 Les Voiles de St. Barth St. Barth 12 Sea Services Martinique 25
Doolittle's Restaurant St. Lucia 43 Lesson Plans Ahoy! C/W MP Sea Services Martinique MP MP = Market Place pages 50 to 53
Down Island Real Estate Grenada MP LIAT Caribbean 8 Simoust Charters St. Maarten MP CW = Caribbean-wide
 Port Louis Marina, Grenada
Add a bit of spice to your sailing!

FEBRUARY 2012
CARIBBEAN COMPASS
PAGE 55
Known popularly as ‘the spice island’, Grenada is one of › Water and electricity
the most unspoilt cruising destinations in the Caribbean, › Free broadband internet
where you and your friends will enjoy a genuine warm › 24-hour security
welcome from the engaging and fun-loving islanders. › Haul-out and technical facilities nearby
Here you will find secluded coves, scintillating beaches, › Bar, restaurant and swimming pool on-site
breathtaking diving, nature reserves and a host of sporting › Berthing assistance
activities ashore and afloat. Everything about Grenada › Only five miles from the international airport
is vibrant – from the crystal clear waters that surround it, New Season Rates – 1 January to 31 May 2012
to the colours of the roofs in the historic capital, and
Daily Weekly Monthly
of course the rhythms and aromas that exemplify LOA in feet
$/ft/day $/ft/day $/ft/day
the local lifestyle.
up to 32 $0.82 $0.74 $0.70
At Port Louis Marina you will experience one of the best up to 40 $1.03 $0.93 $0.88
appointed, full-service marinas in the region. Providing up to 50 $1.13 $1.02 $0.97
the international standards and quality you would associate up to 60 $1.24 $1.11 $1.05
up to 65 $1.39 $1.26 $1.18
with Camper & Nicholsons Marinas, Port Louis retains
up to 75 $1.44 $1.30 $1.23
a quintessential Grenadian flavour.
up to 80 $1.75 $1.58 $1.49
To add some spice to your sailing this season, up to 100 $1.80 $1.63 $1.53
contact Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 435 7431 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer
or email danny.donelan@cnportlouismarina.com periods, please contact us for a personalised quote.

WWW.CNMARINAS.COM/PLM
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LJV

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