FRÉDÉRIC BAU

PHOTOGRAPHS: JEAN BERNARD LASSARA

This book is a page of my life, an open window to my passion,
which is cuisine: a fusionist chocolate cuisine that surprises and questions.
I invite you to lose yourself in this extraordinary culinary parenthesis.

I dedicate this book to those who have made me,

and who loyally continue to do so!
Thank you to those who have given me these values, my values,
in life and in my work.
Through your actions you have always given me hope and confidence.
You allowed me to surpass myself, to write the future,
and to appreciate others.
To my parents, friends, teachers, and you, Rika, my wife,
I offer you this chapter of my life.
6

Original title: Fusion Chocolat. Le chocolat dans la cuisine

First published in 2006 by Montagud Editores, S.A.
© Second English edition: Montagud Editores, S.A., 2008

© Frédéric Bau
© Jean Bernard Lassara
© Eric Pahl, Michael Debbane
© Montagud Editores, S. A., 2006
Ausiàs March, 25, 1º
08010 Barcelona. Spain.
Phone: +34 933 18 20 82
Fax: +34 933 02 50 83
E-mail: montagud@montagud.com
www.montagud.com

Editorial assistant: Mari Luz Mejido

Filmsetting: PC Fotocomposición, S.A.

Printing: Castuera, Industrias Gráficas, S.A.

Copyright Registration: NA 3396/2007

ISBN: 978-84-7212-117-1
Chocolate in Cuisine

FRÉDÉRIC BAU

Editorial Direction
CÈLIA PUJALS

Photography
JEAN BERNARD LASSARA

Frédéric Bau’s Assistant

SÉBASTIEN MICHEL

Artistic Direction
XAVIER CORRETJÉ

Translation
ERIC PAHL AND MICHAEL DEBBANE

Layout
RENÉ PALOMO

Production Direction
LUIS MIGUEL CALVO
8
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
PIERRE GAGNAIRE 10
PIERRE HERMÉ 12

FINDING THE WAY 14

CHOCOLATE TECHNO
THE HISTORY 23
THE “BOUQUET” OF CHOCOLATE 35
THE RIGHT TOUCH 45

THE MENU 62
A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERY DISH 64
HORS D’ŒUVRES 66
COLD APPETIZERS 88
HOT APPETIZERS 110
WATER 136
EARTH 180
CHEESES 230
SWEET DELIGHTS 244
MIGNARDISES 274

BASIC RECIPES 284

FLAVOR COMBINATIONS 285

INDEX OF PREPARATIONS 296

ALPHABETICAL INDEX 298

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 300
10
PIERRE GAGNAIRE
Chef

Today, Frédéric Bau is one of the most brilliant pastry chefs of his generation. He embodies all the qualities (sometimes
contradictory) that our time demands. His technique and his irreproachable understanding allow him to express his
true creative sense. Of course, this creative sense should always be backed by a precise and rigorous manual approach.
One of Frédéric’s contradictions is the apparent freedom he enjoys, all the while working at the heart of a company
that does much more than simply “make” chocolate. Although Valrhona is not your typical company, combining
the excellence of a product and making it meet the marketing needs of worldwide development is a rare thing indeed.
This daring wager is made by none other than Frédéric, the man who symbolizes Valrhona, or perhaps vice-versa.
Knowledge, ideas and philosophies are invariably diffused via human contacts that are fostered with others,
and by the depth of sincerity created in those relations.
What works in today’s world is inevitably passed on through the confidence of personal relations that one creates
around oneself. Frédéric BAU has this talent. He loves his work, his business, his clients… and chocolate.
He also possesses an innate sense of communication.
His kindness, enthusiasm, and competency allow him to relate with ease, simplicity and efficiency.
You have in your hands a surprising book, surprising like Frédéric.
It is rigorous, extremely precise and fascinating, since after all he is discussing chocolate, chocolates,
and still more chocolates.
However, this is the first time such a complete and creative discussion of chocolate has entered into my own domain,
that of savory foods. It is a book that you will bite into, devour, savor, and maybe even smell.

Thank you Fred.

12
PIERRE HERMÉ
Pastry Chef

Passionate, creative, complete and determined are appropriate words to describe Frédéric Bau.
I noticed his passion during the first exchanges we ever had, a few years ago now, as Frédéric was applying
to be a pastry chef at Fauchon. A gleam in his eyes that never goes away, his vivacious spirit, the intensity
of his conversation, the will to always move ahead, and his perennially overachieving nature allow him,
at a very young age, to excel without waiting for the value of years.
When he delves into chocolate, he tastes, tests, listens, and documents until the material
reveals all its secrets to him.
You would think that Guanaja, Manjari, Caraïbes or Jivara is actually running through his veins. It comes as no
surprise that a master of all that is sweet would naturally want to try his hand at the savory: chocolate favors
the bridges between one and the other.
His creations are true masterpieces in the sense that they combine art with method, and audacity with masterful
creativity: he targets the essential, free of contrivances, with a simple credo: taste. He sets an example for the
entire profession. A great technician gifted with a rare sensibility, the will to impart knowledge and educate
his colleagues came quickly to him: he realized very early on that to help evolve this profession so steeped
in tradition, one must be open and willing to pass on information without reservation.
In these few lines, inevitably incomplete though they are, I have described the character of the man, the dear
friend who in this work will share with you his passion for the “good and beautiful”, with great sensitivity,
simplicity, and conviviality. Qualities he possesses himself.

I am proud to be his friend.

14
 FINDING THE WAY

A PASTRY CHEF WHO DREAMS OF CUISINE…

Is it because I always dreamt of cuisine? Most certainly. It was my first vocation. In 1978 I took
my first steps in the world of cuisine alongside Marie France Ponsard, the great lady of Belleville,
in Meurthe-et-Moselle, at her highly revered restaurant, Le Bistroquet. At the time life was hard,
my father had just rejoined paradise. My fragility and young age couldn’t resist the life of such
a lively kitchen. In spite of Madame Ponsard’s attention and caring, the frantic moments intermingled
with perfection and accuracy in front of the “rings” won over my inexperience.
At the advice of my mother I returned to Metz to begin my apprenticeship as a pastry chef.
However, Marie France and Jean Ponsard had, unbeknownst to them, planted an indelible
grain of salt in me.

CHOOSING A PATH

And so it was that sweetness became my destiny, first at Kœnig, in Metz, where I began
my apprenticeship, then on to Auer, in Nice, where I finished it. It was in 1983 that I had the chance
to participate in my first competition for the best apprentice in France. I left Nice after a few years
and returned to my native Lorraine to see my dream as a young pastry chef come to life: to work for,
and more importantly with, Monsieur Bourguignon. Such a dream might seem insignificant
in retrospect, but it was very real to me, at the core of my being, in my guts, and in my heart.
It was rare that we ate sweets at home, but when we did they were Bourguignon pastries.
I was raised on casino, the delicious roulades with just enough kirsch added in so that
the kids would eat it, the creamy lemon tarts crowned with flambéed Swiss meringue,
the marjolaine, the golden Tatin tarts…
My dream became my reality. I hoped that my dad was proud of me, and that high above he could
see me making those same pastries for which he and my mother had sacrificed little savings in order
to treat my four brothers and my sister.

FREEDOM OF EXPRESSION

As with Gilles Marchal, Christophe Felder, or Yannick Labbé, this “Mr. Pastry” instilled in me the
values of the good and beautiful. Monsieur Bourguignon also tried to turn us into respectable and
respectful men and women. He sought to forge in us the values of the profession, but also his own
values, far beyond those of the great pastry chef that he is.
16

Through his generosity he allowed each of us to leave behind with him a trace of our stay. Mine, I
remember, was a cake, the Périclès, with mint and chocolate. It was also the first opportunity for
Christophe Felder and myself to have our competition of four hands, of which we’ve never known the
verdict! In fact, we dropped off the piece in the morning as was required but it had somehow
disappeared before the judging could take place.
Bourguignon, what a magnificent place! My memory is unalterable, and my palate still has a
recollection, almost identical, of the flavor of the meat pâtés, perfectly prepared; in my mind I still
have the aroma of the meat marinating in herbs and Alsatian wine, divine…

A PARANTHESIS FOR THE FUTURE…

I then discovered restaurant work. A year spent in a restaurant when I was too young, too alone,
without a mirror, without critique. My only challenge was to please that rather particular chef, who
was subject to changing moods.

REVELATION BY THE MASTER

So on the advice of Joël Bellouet I took the big step and moved “up” to the capital to join Pierre Hermé
at Fauchon. It was the grand époque.
Not only that of Pierre Hermé, future genius of all that is sweet, but also of pâtisserie in general that,
thanks to the vision of men of talent and charisma like him, was in the process of becoming
an altogether different pâtisserie: a gastronomic pâtisserie, a pâtisserie of “taste”.
They were two revealing years, a time that allowed me to decide that my life would be sweet.
How could one resist the passion and fascinating creativity of Pierre Hermé! He knew how to train
those, in his quest for the best and the different, who were willing to fully devote themselves,
and to surpass their expectations. There were no compromises with him, never an “almost” or
“not bad” because, he would often say, within “not bad” there is already “bad”.
Two years of pure joy, accomplishment, and revelation: the feeling of beginning to understand that
within artisan there is art. When the opportunity presented itself I would cross the street to rejoin
the kitchens where the old chef Monsieur Primaut of the transatlantic cruise ship “France”,
and his large brigade still resided over the flames. I was happy to be among the savory smells
and flavors that brought me back to my first “loves”.

UNCONSCIOUSNESS

November 22, 1987, was the consequential day when Pierre Hermé introduced me to Antoine Dodet. The
then marketing director of Valrhona came by to meet me and measure up my potential for the position of
head pastry chef of the company. I was overcome by a feeling of anxiety: how could I accept a responsibility
like this at 22 years old? …Who was simply and blindly following the recommendations of his boss!
It was decided, and I left for Tain l’Hermitage just after the New Year. In part, I owe a slice of my
chocolate life to Antoine Dodet who dared to recruit such a young and inexperienced candidate as
myself purely on the confidence that he had in Pierre Hermé and perhaps in me… what do I know?
I began at Valrhona on January 18, 1988. Antoine, the young general manager of the company,
disappeared all too soon in 1990.
 17

THE MODEL TO COPY

It was Paul who received me, Paul Bernard-Brêt, the great chocolatier who I didn’t know at the time.
The story is too long to recount here, so let us move on to the present.
For seventeen years I discovered, apprehended, and learned my new line of work as trainer, and especially
as chocolatier. Actually, training is perhaps not so much a profession as a state of mind, a way of being.
The great voyage began. At Valrhona I discovered what was until then an unknown world to me, that
of rare cacao beans, exceptional blends and the finest varieties, of which Valrhona was the leader.
For the first time I touched and tasted chocolate nibs, and I can still remember they were from Grenada.
The master roaster spoke to me with his words. They were his own: full of life, feeling, and flavor.
However, at this point we still did not taste the cacao, we smelled it. He took me on a walk, passing
my nose over each sack of nibs as we went. Like the flavors, the colors change as well. “You see that
here we can travel rather inexpensively,” he said to me. It was almost true; I was a young, happy pastry
chef. We were there, the two of us, amidst dozens of sacks burgeoning with goodness while Paul led
me through a dream. I had my nostrils wide open in front of all that. There it was, the mystery of
chocolate revealed before my very eyes.
The nuggets of cacao intrigued me and gave life to my cravings.
My thoughts were, of course, sweet! However, to avoid stretching out the story of my life too much,
let us simply say that a few months later we had developed, with Pierre Hermé, the surprising and
almost instantly classic cacao nib nougatine.
Valrhona followed our lead and the nibs arrived in the laboratories. It was the beginning of 1989.
Crazy about cuisine, but more generally about everything good that could be eaten or drank, and
from all over, I was already thinking savory.

THE MASTER’S VOICE

I still remember Paul saying to me, “The nibs, after all, are almost like peanuts or almonds, peeled,
toasted, and chopped, with or without a little sugar.” It was Paul who would become, little by little,
my truth, and my “chocolate mentor”.
Indeed, after many years at Valrhona he knew everything, or almost everything, on the subject.
Although Paul had long since left pâtisserie to devote himself to the great calling of chocolate, he
preserved intact his love for pâtisserie, and for all things gourmand. He possessed a monstrous
amount of knowledge as a chocolate confectioner. It was he who taught me everything about
chocolate, and it was also he that introduced me to emulsion… Which, for those who know me, is
something that they will certainly find amusing!

THE STRENGTH TO BELIEVE IN YOURSELF

The seven years I spent beside Paul were decisive in regard to my professional plan. We discovered,
appreciated, respected, and completed each other. Paul and myself began to organize training sessions
that were preliminarily his. I followed him, drank of his words, nourished myself from his knowledge
and delighted myself with his generosity as a father figure.
L’Ecole du Grand Chocolat sprouted into existence. These years not only served to consolidate the
confidence I had in my abilities, but equally to reinforce what inspired me about this complex
product, chocolate.
18

I began to work and travel a lot, to learn the world. I became more and more passionate about
chocolate, and little by little my appreciation for its complexity and generosity grew. To accomplish
one’s work as a pastry chef, all the while thinking that a certain product attracts and allures us more
than another is an almost jubilant feeling. I had the chance to share some of my time with the
agricultural engineers of the company who, with their trained eyes, “unlike mine”, helped me to
discover the “behind the scenes” of ingredients. Better still: the behind the scenes of pastry cooking. I
discovered a special affection for this little applied technology. It is rather exciting to begin to
understand how it all works, to figure out what caused my failures and my successes. The trainings
became a bit more focused, with more appropriate words and examples that are easy to understand; it
was the beginning of pedagogy, of the knowledge of teaching.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PROFESSION IN THE WORLD

This “privilege” is often only attributed to professors.

However, it is also a part of training: the opportunity to enrich the lives of others is a pleasure that all
teachers share.
In the crazy adventure of L’Ecole du Grand Chocolat, I was joined successively by Elizabeth Junique,
Gérald Maridet, Vincent Bourdin, Yann Duytsche, Jean Pascal Brunière, Olivier Lemauviot, Sébastien
Michel, Michael Loonis, Michael Verdier, David Capy, Julie Haubourdin, Tamar Marchand, Isabelle
Lecomte and Philippe Givre.
Seventeen years of pleasures, and sometimes worries, but a place where everyone with their talent,
generosity, and spirit, contributed to the development of our school.

JEAN BERNARD LASSARA, RESPONSIBLE FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHS IN THIS

BOOK, AND WITH WHOM I SPENT SO MANY WONDERFUL MOMENTS IN THE
STUDIO… AND IN THE KITCHEN!

FRÉDÉRIC
AND SÉBASTIEN,
DURING LONG
SHIFTS IN THE
KITCHEN
TO CRYSTALLIZE
OUR IDEAS
 19

RECOGNITION

1995: Au Coeur des Saveurs. More than a dream it was an opportunity that Montagud presented to me; of
course, it was a dream opportunity to be able to write what we wanted to say, to better diffuse the
knowledge. I, however, was not still of an age when I needed my ego flattered by the recognition of my
“fathers”, and I admit that writing a book was not part of my plan at the time. In all modesty I did not
think that I was sufficiently “old or recognized” to dream about writing a book at that time of my life.
Destiny decided otherwise and Montagud – a publisher internationally revered by our profession
today – took an interest in me.
As he was always available for advice, Pierre Hermé told me to go ahead. Thrilled, I began the project,
still not sure what I had to say or write. After a few meetings I succeeded in finding within myself the
desire to convey a part of my knowledge, or more importantly my understanding.
After two and a half years, Au Coeur des Saveurs would finally see the light of day.
It is the fruit of an intimate labor on the part of my close friend, photographer Jean Bernard Lassara,
my mother Bernadette, and Yann Duytsche, my friend and beloved assistant. Jean Bernard gave the
content its gourmandise, Bernadette preserved the sentiment of my words while giving them an
indispensable elegance, and Yann accompanied me in this unique adventure with his ever-critical eye
and creativity. Two years of pleasure, but also of stress, to finally see the realization of a book that fits
in line with my original vision.

FIRST STEPS

Drenched in chocolate and sweets, I had a thirst to see chocolate from a different angle. From the
moment the opportunity presented itself, I broke away from the sweet to the savory, with the idea still in
my mind that chocolate “is like peanuts or almonds, peeled, toasted, and with or without a little sugar”.
In our small laboratory in the Villa Genthon my experiments began. My first discovery came about by
daring to mix, as a culinary delirium, chocolate with my lobster sauce américaine. I was preparing for a
challenge, my baptismal fire as it were, that would be the tradeshow in Lyon during which the famous
world cup of pâtisserie takes place.
Gabriel Paillasson created it with the assistance of Valrhona, the official sponsor. In this exposition,
Valrhona sets up a special stand, more like a room, where we welcome and indulge the clients. My
accomplice Paul and myself were a little weary after preparing the finest petits-fours that we knew how
to make at the time, which meant starting at 4 o’clock in the morning, to find that they went
unnoticed and unappreciated. It became clear that for pastry chefs it was about nothing but petits-
fours. So ours were nothing really surprising or original in themselves, understandably so.

ALWAYS DARE TO SURPRISE…

So the desire captured me to “dare to cook” in order to surprise myself beyond anything else. I began my
first experiments. This is in September 1990 and the dishes needed to be “palatable” for the show in
January 1991.
Memories of my childhood came back to me. My grandmother’s coq au vin, with a few squares of
chocolate thrown in right at the end, came to mind. I began to skim through cookbooks to discover
that the use of chocolate in our gastronomy is not new, and even less so in certain other world
cuisines, like in Mexico for example.
20

More than anything, I noticed that chocolate is often used in small doses, more for its emulsifying
virtues, or to give a dish a more satiny texture; satiny, because friends in the profession often say,
“it’s to give the sauce a satiny touch”, or “to give it some silkiness” as Auguste Escoffier said in his
books. Emboldened by this discovery and knowing that after all “chocolate is like toasted peanuts
or almonds, with or without a bit of sugar!”, I decided to let my imagination wander even farther:
chocolate should then become the perfuming product in all my dishes, not just an element that is
there, “behind the scenes”.

QUITE SIMPLY...CRAZY ABOUT CUISINE

The idea had not occurred to me – note the temptation – to claim the invention of chocolate in
cuisine. I have too much respect for our predecessors and, besides, the pastry chef within would be
very careful to claim anything in regard to material within the realm of chocolate cuisine. My desire is
none other than to share my delirium for cuisine… with chocolate, in hopes of achieving one thing:
to discover unexpected, bold, curious, and daring new flavors, but also to make you understand that
in some respect, if you will, chocolate “is a bit like peanuts or almonds, toasted and chopped,
with or without a little sugar.”
I incidentally remember and am very thankful to Frédérick Grasser-Hermé, an unparalleled chef
and journalist, who had the kindness to publish an article in Le Figaro dedicated to my “Norway
lobster with chocolate”.
Thanks to Frédérick’s intransigent character, I felt proud and happy to find that I was on the right
track!

THE CONFIDENCE OF OTHERS

A man’s story often relies on the vision and perspective of others.

If I was able to accomplish all of this with such equanimity, without fear of what will they think, it is
thanks to many of you who, by the manner in which you judge, the way you are and think, allowed
me to forge ahead and often abstract myself from hasty judgments. Throughout all these years, I have
always been accompanied by:
– Valrhona, who accepts that I “cook” with my team at each Sirha show in Lyon. It is an occasion for us
to surpass ourselves and escape from the beaten path. But more than anything it is a chance to welcome
all the greatest pâtissiers and chefs of the world and let them discover my crackpot gourmand ideas.
– The Savoy hotel in London, temple of Escoffier, who asked me to demonstrate to curious
Londoners my chocolate cuisine. Thank you Mr. Edelman.
– The Raffles hotel in Singapore, a colonial palace, where they also dared to discover savory
chocolate. I had the privilege to work alongside the brothers Pourcel, Gordon Ramsey, and Alain
Ducasse for this prestigious event - the Food and Wine Experience. Thank you Freddy Schmitt and
Peter Knipp for your support.
– Eyvind Hellstrøm and his Bagatelle in Oslo, temple of the good and beautiful, who also “signed
up” for the chocolate dinners in his mythical restaurant, with his remarkable team. Thank you
Hellstrøm, and to your wife.
– Marc Decank and his Chronique in Montreal, where happiness is found in his kitchen. I shared
many unforgettable moments of teaching and passion with Marc and his assistant Olivier de Montigny
over the course of a few chocolate soirées.
 21

– Cyril Jamet, friend and chef from Ardèche who was one of the first to taste my extravagances
and to believe in me. His advice has always been valid and treasured. He also permitted me to cook
at his “piano”.
– Alain Dutournier, who, with uncommon generosity opened the doors of his Carré des feuillants in
Paris to me, to surprise the palates of a few journalists, curious parties and gourmands. The
experience of those two days, surrounded by his assistants and collaborators, was an indescribable
privilege and joy.

Not to forget Philippe Girardon, Paul Bocuse, Pierre Orsi, Michel Troisgros, my friends, and many
others who offered me a few minutes of their time along with their expert palates without
compromise: you have all contributed in encouraging me and my slightly daring, if not outright bold
ideas.
Thanks to your opinions, critiques and advice, in particular that of my wife Rika who, time and time
again while tasting would tell me the “truth”, these “gastronomic visions” were given the chance to
become reality!
A million thanks to all of you.

UNION CREATES WEALTH

One of my collaborators, Sébastien Michel, a pastry chef with savory taste buds, accepted the offer to
embark on the adventure with me. Sébastien has accompanied me in many of my “savory
parentheses” and it is with him that I have often achieved my first dinners with chocolate.
Head pastry chef along side Régis Marcon for four years, he nourished himself on the atmosphere of
perfect gourmandise and exigency that prevails at L’Auberge des cimes and at the heart of Régis Marcon.
With his training as a chef, supported by his creativity and his gourmand instinct, his hand has
enriched the ideas and recipes of this book.
Thank you Sandy, chef and longtime friend, for being available at all times, even while on duty, to
offer us your brilliant comments and to sensitize us to the “chef’s details” that make such a difference.

FRÉDÉRIC BAU
www.fredericbau.com
contact@fredericbau.com
22
CHOCOLATE T EC H N O

THE HISTORY

HISTORY OF CUISINES

We could begin by covering ancient history. Cuisines of the world use many kinds of nuts in their
dishes to add color, flavor or unctuousness. In western cultures, nuts are often used for their
thickening qualities due to their high fat content, and for their emulsifying powers. In eastern
cultures, however, they are sought after more for their perfuming attributes, like the sesame seed
and the peanut… Though much less frequent than the universal use of butter, chocolate is not itself
a new element in western cuisine. Auguste Escoffier already included it in his preparations. In fact,
we find chocolate in many western recipes, in particular wine sauces of which the grand veneur,
to name but one, is a nice example.
I consulted several works on the subject and surfed the net, and I found that chocolate has actually
been used in western cuisine for quite a while, but almost exclusively in what we might call
“homeopathic” quantities. In fact, it has been welcomed as an emulsifier, a coloring additive, and used
to give a more silky texture to dishes, but in such small doses that it is almost negligible.
It is rare that a recipe should call for chocolate on the simple basis of its flavor or the unique aromatic
qualities it expresses. Our culinary traditions tend to use fats such as butter, cream, or oil. Each
of these fats more or less possesses the same emulsifying qualities while offering varied flavors
and contrasting textures.

A QUESTION OF CULTURE

For historical reasons, every country and region gives priority to the use of certain types of fat.
All available are generally used according to regional cultures. Some are used purely on the basis
of flavor, like olive oil, butter, or heavy creams. Others are used in certain applications for the texture
they bestow on the dish, such as the use of lard in the traditional bugnes of Lyon, or in certain
other similar specialties. Butter and oils, for example, are often used in dishes that require
their emulsifying powers such as mayonnaise, beurre blanc, beurre nantais, or béarnaise sauces.
In Japan and China, sesame paste is used in many dishes, whereas in South-East Asia, particularly
Malaysia and Thailand, the sesame is replaced by roasted peanuts, either whole or in paste, to crown
countless dishes across the region. In Mexico, mole is a good example of “chocolate cuisine”.
However, contrary to many cuisines of the world, in France there is scarce use of such nuts
as pistachio, sesame seed, hazelnut, and even less of chocolate!
24

FROM THE BEAN TO CHOCOLATE, THE DIVINE ROAD

The tree
The cacao tree has evolved over millions of years, first under pressure from their environment,
and later due to man. Today they are divided into three large groups: the criollos, known for being less
productive but of very high quality; the forasteros, robust and vigorous but whose cacao is less intense;
and the trinitarios, a term that encompasses all the hybrids of the other two species. However, this
classification is more representative than anything else, as we will see when we look a little
further on, each kind is capable of producing the best “varieties”.

The fruit
The fruit of a cacao tree can resemble a squash. It propagates. With each heavy rain it flowers and six
months later the tree exhibits a few pods that manage to develop and ripen. Inside the pods we find
a kind of cluster that holds about forty beans. They are surrounded by a white pulp that is juicy,
sweet, and lightly acidic.
The variety Theobroma cacao produces large beans capable of being transformed into cacao. Other
varieties have been cultivated principally for their pulp, and especially the wine that could be
extracted from them. The interior of the beans varies from the most intense violet of the forasteros
to the white of the criollos, of which the famous porcelanas portray an opalescent whiteness,
the color of porcelain.

THE CACAO POD

 25

THE LAND

Countries of production
65 to 70% of worldwide production takes place in Africa, in particular the Ivory Coast and Ghana.
Indonesia follows next, then Cameroon, Nigeria, and Brazil. Cacao is also found in the majority
of countries in the tropical belt, many of which have converted it into a specialty even if their levels
of production are far lower than the preceding cases (e.g., Venezuela, Equator, Dominican Republic).
Others only harvest very small quantities (Trinidad, Java, Belize, Sao Tome).

The environment
Within a single country, the altitude, amount of sunshine, soil, and rain patterns all play a factor in
the development of cacao trees. It is easily noticeable how the fruits will grow and ripen differently
depending on the richness of the soil, the availability of water, the ambient heat and the sunshine.
A company like Valrhona, in particular, clearly knew how to profit from these variables by planting
trees in very different terrains: one species, Porcelana del Pedregal, in rocky granite soil on the side
of a mountain in Venezuela, another on a small plateau perched above thick vegetation, like Palmira,
also in Venezuela.

THE TRANSFORMATION ON THE PLANTATION

The harvest
The cacao tree is a perennial, presenting all the cycles of maturation the entire year, from the flower
to the pod. The rainy seasons influence the production of the fruit. It is here that the quality
of a chocolate begins.
It all depends on a perfect understanding of the trees and, above all, surveillance and perfect
maintenance of the plantation. For example, particular attention must be paid to the successive
passages in the plots of land that facilitate the collection of fruits as they reach their maturity.
To ensure a consistent quality of production from one year to the next, special care must be taken
while cutting the pods. In fact, if the floral cushion that gives it support is damaged after cutting,
it is likely that the following year the yield will be malformed, or there will be no fruit at all.

The extraction of the beans

This stage consists of breaking the fruit in order to extract the beans. For a perfect result, and to avoid
shattering the pods, something that causes an unalterable bitterness, the operation is often done
by hand.

The fermentation
Without fermentation there is no aroma. This type of fermentation is particularly unique, but from
a chemical point of view it is very similar to that of the grape. Wine becomes vinegar as well.
The facilities of a plantation are by no means as sophisticated as those that one would find in
a winery. Often the process is left entirely up to the manager of the plantation alone. We might
jokingly call him “the Count of Cacao”. He is the equivalent of the master vintner, conducting
the fermentation of the pulp, stirring it time and again and stopping it at the correct moment,
after 3 to 7 days or more, depending on the cacao and the climatic conditions at the time.
26

During this stage the pulp ferments, acidifies, and reheats, sometimes up to more than 50ºC/122ºF.
This creates certain conditions that provoke the transformation of the bean in an indirect way.
In fact, the bean “dies” in order to “resurrect” itself renewed.
This fermentation allows the formation of a kind of “soup”: here are the renowned “precursors
to aromas”. A magical process thus begins, revealing simple aromas, like fruity, floral notes, or more
complex ones like pyrazinoics.

The drying stage

Two principal functions: first, to reduce the water content for the conservation of the fermented cacao;
second, to provide natural warmth which facilitates the creation of nutty, toasted aromas through
natural and complex reactions.
After several cleaning processes of selection and caliber, more or less mechanical, the cacao is placed
in 60-kilogram gunnysacks that are then transferred to large containers, and the ship sets off to sea,
destined for European ports.

THE TRANSFORMATION IN THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY

Quality control in fruit reception

The methods of control are numerous: the odor, texture, and above all the cut of the beans.
For this we employ a variant of the well known “guillotine” that allows us to cut the beans from
end to end. It is like radiography for the bean, and it allows us to verify that proper fermentation
has taken place.
Round two: the cacao is used to make a test chocolate and then tasted by a jury of experts to confirm
that the sensory profile obtained is in accordance with the standards established for each origin.
Depending on the verdict, we are then in a position to accept or decline the shipment of cacao.

BELOW, GUILLOTINE.
RIGHT, GUILLOTINE WITH BEANS
CUT LENGTHWISE.
 27

AN INTIMATE VIEW OF THE BEAN ALLOWS

US TO SEE ITS DEVELOPMENT.
OPPOSITE, A CUT CRIOLLO BEAN.
28

ROASTING

The roasting process

Slowly roasted at a low temperature, the beans, at this stage still referred to as green, begin to develop
the aromas of chocolate. It is like developing a photograph and beginning to see the positive image.
After a 45 to 50 minute supervised roasting, the beans are cooled to facilitate the subsequent removal
of the shells and grinding.

GREEN BEANS ROASTED BEANS CRACKED BEANS NIBS

 29

Grinding
This process is accomplished with the help of a winnower, a machine that delicately separates
the beans from their shells by friction in order to grind the grain that is found inside.
Little black nuggets are obtained that fill the air with their unique fragrance: the nibs are born.
This process represents a 20% loss in overall weight of the beans.

Blending
The distinct nibs are blended according to quasi-secret formulas devised by talent and knowledge,
and then passed on to the mill.
Thanks to the high cocoa butter content and the heat from the cacao mill, the mixture becomes
an unctuous dough known as cocoa paste, or in the jargon of chocolatiers, “chocolate liquor”.

Mixing the paste

By introducing sugar to the mixture, in variable amounts, the liquor begins to resemble chocolate,
at least in flavor, but its texture remains granulated: around 80 microns.

Refining
A fine grinding provides texture and density to the eventual chocolate. Recently ground, and under
enormous pressure, the paste becomes powder and reaches a fineness (at Valrhona) of 14/15 microns.

COCOA PASTE,
ALSO CALLED CHOCOLATE LIQUOR
30

BLENDING

MIXING THE PASTE

REFINING
 31

CONCHING

MOLDING

Conching
The powder, which now has a chocolate color, is ready to enter into the decisive phase of a great
chocolate: conching. For those of us who are patissiers or chefs it is natural to liken this process
to the reduction of a sauce. The flavor is there, it simply needs to be magnified. Everything can be
perfectly done up to this point, but if the reduction is too hastily performed or poorly achieved
then the result will be disappointing. For many hours at low temperatures the chocolate is heated
and stirred to slowly attain a flavorful balance and silky texture. After 72 hours of conching,
the chocolate crystallizes.

Molding
There are different forms of molded chocolate. We find it in blocks, beans, drops, or bars, among
others. Regardless of the shape, however, the chocolate must always be tempered to facilitate
de-molding and give it a shiny aspect and brittle quality.
32

DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHOCOLATE COUVERTURES

Composition of a Valrhona 70% cocoa Guanaja Composition of a Valrhona 67% cocoa Extra
type couverture, including the added cocoa Amer (Bitter) laboratory chocolate, a product not
butter - indispensable for fluidity in the molding intended for molding or enrobing,
process and for enrobing. with importance given to density due to the lack
of cocoa butter.

LECITHIN
LECITHIN
NATURAL VANILLA

NATURAL VANILLA

ADDED COCOA
BUTTER

CACAO NIBS

CACAO NIBS

SUGAR

SUGAR
 33

Composition of a Valrhona 40% cocoa Jivara Composition of a Valrhona Ivoire type

Lactée type milk chocolate couverture. couverture containing 35% cocoa butter.

LECITHIN LECITHIN

NATURAL VANILLA

NATURAL VANILLA

MILK

COCOA BUTTER

CACAO NIBS

ADDED COCOA MILK

BUTTER

CASSONADE SUGAR

SUGAR
34
 35

THE “BOUQUET” OF CHOCOLATE

Tasting fine chocolate creates an escalating pleasure that culminates in the liberation of the aromatic
ensemble in the mouth. Appreciating a fine chocolate requires an analysis from different points
of view and the use of all of our senses.

HOW TO TASTE A FINE CHOCOLATE

Fine chocolate is brittle, crisp and aromatic, it melts in your mouth and has a long finish.

The physiology of taste

Taste is a privilege afforded to human beings. Many other mammals neither possess this faculty, nor
the “intelligence” necessary to discern between tastes. To practice it we must employ all our senses.
In fact, the “simple” tasting of a food triggers a series of sensors which, placed one after the other
and synthesized with the references of each, provide an analysis, a perception, but above all else
an intensity of pleasure that is unique and exclusive each time.
This should convince us that the phrase “I don’t have a palate” is never true, except of course
in certain medical cases. Our sensors await material to analyze, materials to “process”. They have
a memory that is inconceivable to us, and a capacity to discover and interpret that is beyond
imagination! It is marvelous machinery which our alimentary habits, unfortunately, take too little
advantage of. Here, we will discuss the operating principals of our senses, or, more precisely, how
organoleptic information (in relation to taste) is materialized and recorded.

Odor is a volatile molecule that is emitted by a food and directly perceived by mucous membranes
of the nose (detected through inhaling).
e.g.: the smell of freshly baked, warm bread crust.
Flavor is a chemical molecule captured by receptors on the tongue: taste buds.
These receptors are distributed in an unequal manner and are principally concentrated at the tip
of the tongue, the sides, and the back. The five fundamental flavors are: sour, bitter, sweet, salty
and umami (Asian cuisine frequently uses products with this flavor, such as soy sauce).
Aroma is a volatile molecule that is freed by the effect of chewing and the increase in temperature.
This molecule is captured by the exhaling air past the retro-nasal mucous membranes.
e.g.: floral notes, fruitiness (of berries or stone fruits) or spices.

Prepare the senses….

As with a wine, spirit, or cigar, tasting a chocolate requires that all our senses be alert. It is a good idea
to relax in a calm setting for a few moments before in order to fully perceive all the aromatic subtleties.

The pleasure of sight

As with wine, we appraise the “robe” of a fine chocolate. Depending on the origins of the cacao bean,
its color can vary from a glistening mahogany brown to a flat, intense black.
36

Listen…
Fine chocolates are distinguished by their crispness. The break should be clean and emit a deep
sound. Paradoxically, afterwards the texture should surprise you by the way it melts harmoniously
in the mouth.

On the palate…
Inhale, wait a few seconds, then exhale through the mouth. Let the chocolate melt in the mouth slowly,
coating the palate; continue breathing and… boom! This brief moment when everything explodes,
everything reveals itself, comprised of flavors and smells that we never would have thought to discover.
Let it melt completely, exhale, taste… and begin again. It is often necessary to taste a chocolate several
times to experience all of its nuances. Envelop the chocolate, let it melt on your tongue, move it around
in your mouth to appreciate the flavors, and exhale in order to measure its full aromatic richness.

Appreciate the aromas…

Fine chocolates are quite often more complex, due to their richness. The unctuosity overwhelms,
from the first bite, with a bouquet of flavors and aromas.
Learn to distinguish the very volatile aromas from the beginning. To do this, let the chocolate melt
on your tongue and exhale through your nose, with the aim of introducing these first liberated aromas
to the nasal mucous membranes. You will notice the fruity, floral, or spiced notes… Then concentrate
on the flavors. An acidic chocolate will make you salivate, while bitterness remains in the back of
the throat. The less volatile aromas are released at the end of the tasting, prolonging the persistence
of the chocolate. You will perceive notes of camphor (a taste similar to tapenade), toasted nuts
or mushrooms depending on the origins of the cacao. The faults: flat, too short in the mouth, parasitic
notes (smoked, burnt, or moldy…), insufficient fermenting (too bitter or too astringent), or excessive
fermenting (animal notes).

THE AROMA,
A SIGN OF GOOD ROASTING
 37

RECENTLY GROUND CHOCOLATE POWDER,

AROUND 15 MICRONS

THE ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF CHOCOLATES

Different types of chocolates

In general terms, different types of chocolates can be grouped, according to their basic composition,
into three large categories determined by taste and aroma. The essential difference between them is
in the proportions of main ingredients: chocolate, milk, and sugar.

Dark chocolates
The color of a good dark chocolate can vary from a red mahogany to the most intense black.
The bitterness can be moderate, leaving space for other aromas, or it can dominate, to express the full
force and character of the beans.
Dark chocolates can present very different organoleptic profiles, sometimes simple, sometimes very
rich and original. The dominant aromas could be: floral, fruity (berries, stone fruits, figs, raisins…),
spicy (cinnamon, spice bread, honey, vanilla…), or pyrazinoic (warm bread, toasted almonds and
walnuts or roasted nibs…). Other sensory characteristics can develop according to the origins of
the cacao such as camphor, or even hints of green vegetables or grass, fresh mushrooms, licorice…

Milk chocolates
These are differentiated by the balance between lactic and chocolate aromas. A good milk chocolate
should be unctuous rather than sticky. Bitterness, which is sometimes present, should quickly give
way to the lactic acidity and aromas. The dominant aromas can be vanilla, caramel, or sometimes
biscuit depending on the chocolate.
38

White chocolates
These should be a glistening yellow color (not too pale and not too dark).
The texture should be unctuous without leaving the mouth coated with a greasy film. The flavors
should be well balanced: it is better if they are more acidic than bitter. A hint of salt can appear at
times, accompanying aromas like biscuit and caramel. White chocolate should not be astringent, and
their aromas can be more or less rich, with lactic notes of vanilla, caramel, or biscuit… Whites can
also easily absorb parasitic aromas. Quality chocolates should be free of any hints of cheese, rancidity,
or flavors resembling metal or paper.

THE CULTURE OF DIFFERENCE

But beyond this general classification, which is understood by the majority of consumers, certain
chocolate makers have taken it upon themselves to attain new levels of excellence by offering select
products of superior quality, that reflect the richness of cacao from different origins, as well as their
flavorful and aromatic diversity. This is the world of the “grands crus” in which, like great wines,
the characteristics of the origin of the cacao and the aptitude of the chocolatier in the art of
production convey to the discerning consumer their enormous flavorful and aromatic potential. Each
chocolatier, or maker of chocolate couvertures, possesses his own history, culture, vision, and market.
Just like a vintner, a chocolatier chooses a “niche” market with minimum production and reasonable
returns, to offer unique and exceptional products, or a mass market with the idea of flooding
the market with a more or less banal product, conceived, made, and marketed to “please everyone”.
Unfortunately, the world chocolate panorama leans toward this banal market profile, where price is
the determining factor. It is the same for many consumer products: wines, vegetables, meats, fruits…
After reading the magnificent, intense history of a company like Valrhona I realized that this culture
of difference has always been present, up to the minute details. Even in the service records of the time,
in the recipes and suggestions, this need to be different has always been explicitly stated. It is
obviously more difficult to seduce the consumer with very specialized products, but the objective
is not to please everyone. Rather, it is to seduce the professionals and consumers that are in search
of something else, something different—sensations that are distinctive and excellent.
It is a philosophy to which I adhere. There is so much more to talk about, to discuss and exchange,
when we taste unique products with excellent flavors than to simply say, “it’s good, I was hungry”.
The buyers, or better said, the “finders” of the beans, on returning from their travels sometimes bring
back rare beans of forgotten origins, often of very limited production. It is their mission, their raison
d’être. The engineers, the tasters, the pastry chefs, as well as the jury of experts await their discoveries
as if they were gold. Afterwards, these few grams or kilos of beans are converted into precious
chocolate bars. Chocolate that will never exist as such, but which serves to provide future blends with
strength, delicacy, and who knows what else! The professionals at Valrhona taste, imagine, materialize,
and map out the organoleptic profiles of cacao beans from around the world.
It is thanks to this “cacao library”, exclusive and unique in the world, that after reflection, association,
tasting and more tasting, the fine blends of Valrhona chocolate are born.
It is the company’s culture.
 39

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF CACAO

40

ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF THE ORIGINS OF CACAO

Depending on the part of the world where the cacao comes from, this displays, as we have seen
above, different characteristics of flavor and aroma. This “personality” is determined by the terrain,
which forms the cacao and makes it unique. Here are a few examples:

Profile of Madagascar cacao ACIDIC

Madagascar cacao beans produce chocolates
that are intense with long finishes, due to
the release of acidic and fruity notes that are CAMPHORIC BITTER
quickly accompanied by warm aromas
of toasted nuts.

SPICED LONG

TOASTED CHOCOLATÉ*

FRUITY FLORAL

* Translator’s note: from French, chocolaté is a term coined

by Valrhona to describe the intensity of the chocolate flavor.

Source: cacaothèque Valrhona

 41

ACIDIC

CAMPHORIC BITTER

Profile of Ecuador cacao

Cacao beans from Ecuador allow us to make bitter
chocolates that present contrasts of light and SPICED LONG

very floral notes that give way to toasted notes

in the finish.

TOASTED CHOCOLATÉ*

FRUITY FLORAL

Profile of Trinidad cacao ACIDIC

Cacao beans from Trinidad yield a characteristic
chocolate, with a very long finish due to its
predominant camphor aroma, accompanied by CAMPHORIC BITTER
fruity notes and warm, toasted and spiced flavors.

SPICED LONG

TOASTED CHOCOLATÉ*

FRUITY FLORAL
42

ORGANOLEPTIC PROFILE OF FINE BLENDS

The blends
Rarely do we talk about what is, or should be, the job of a couverturier.
We focus on the fruits and their origins and not enough on the blends and the process
of production, which is equally important in the end result. As with wine, it is the “touch” of each
manufacturer that provides diversity and richness. We should then accept that the difference
in the flavor of a chocolate essentially comes from expertise in mixing the cacao nibs. It is an
ancestral knowledge, where only the perception of women and men intervene, guided by a will to
create new sensations. The goal is to bring about more complex aromas, and offer unexpected
flavors.
When new chocolates are produced, from new blends, hundreds of tests are applied as the
chocolates are smelled and tasted by a jury of experts on sensory analysis, and by us, the pastry
chefs. At times, the combinations can be disappointing; at other times they can be wonderful
surprises.
It is a world where preconceived notions and norms are prohibited, and where complexity and
association games are welcomed.
Blending to create more flavor and more diversity: this is the job of a couverturier. A blend can
contain more than ten different origins of distinctive beans, not to complicate the affair but simply
to produce something better!

Sensory profile of Manjari ACIDIC

Manjari, a dark chocolate that surprises and
distinguishes itself by its light, acidic, and fruity
notes, all very long. The toasted aromas do not
reveal themselves until the end. SPICED BITTER

TOASTED AROMAS LONG

* Translator’s note: from French, chocolaté is a term coined

by Valrhona to describe the intensity of the chocolate flavor. LIGHT AROMAS CHOCOLATÉ*

Source: cacaothèque Valrhona

 43

ACIDIC

SPICED BITTER

Sensory profile of Guanaja

The exceptional and moderate bitterness of
Guanaja develops as the chocolate melts in
the mouth. The first notes, light and very
volatile, disappear to leave space for the
toasted aromas. Its length is characterized by
TOASTED AROMAS LONG
a combined perception of bitterness and
astringency.

LIGHT AROMAS CHOCOLATÉ*

Sensory profile of Araguani ACIDIC

As it slowly melts in the mouth, Araguani
quickly releases all of its acidity, truly
strengthening the first freed aromas. Light
fruity and honeyed notes are perceived, BITTER
SPICED
accompanied by toasted notes. These are
followed by subtle and volatile aromas
of spice. Araguani could be likened to fine
tannic wines for the persistent astringency
in the finish.

TOASTED AROMAS LONG

LIGHT AROMAS CHOCOLATÉ*

44

PREPARATION OF THE NORWAY LOBSTER SAUCE

AMERICAINE, EMULSIFIED WITH GRAND CRU
MANJARI (SEE RECIPE “NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS…”,
P. 138). BEGIN BY POURING THE SAUCE AMERICAINE
MIXED WITH THE CORAL OVER THE CHOCOLATE
USING A CHINOIS…
 45

THE RIGHT TOUCH

EMULSION

What is it?
An emulsion is based on the principle of mixing together two ingredients that naturally reject
each other.
We could use water and oil as an example.
There are two types of emulsion: aqueous and anhydrous, otherwise known as wet and dry.
In this case, we will observe two principles of emulsion: oil in water, such as mayonnaise, and water
in oil, as for a ganache, for example.

How?
For a mayonnaise, we gradually add the oil until we have an emulsified texture, elastic and glistening,
and with the desired flavor.
If after reaching this point we continue to add oil without moderation, we will saturate the mixture
with fat, causing a “phase” separation in the mayonnaise and the emulsion will take on a liquid form,
closer to a vinaigrette.
For a ganache, we gradually add the liquid to the chopped or melted chocolate. We begin, then,
with a “saturation” of fat since all the chocolate is already present. In fact, to obtain a perfect emulsion
we must start with the chopped or melted chocolate and gradually add the liquid product, be it milk,
cream, fruit pulp, etc. The high cocoa butter content of chocolate produces, from the beginning
and without exception, a separation of the mixture; in our jargon we would say it is “curdled”
or “separated”.

…THEN PRESS WITH THE AID OF A WHISK TO OBTAIN THE MOST JUICE, WITH VERY FINE TEXTURE, …FINALLY, WHISK VIGOROUSLY,
TO COMBINE BOTH PREPARATIONS… IN CIRCULAR FASHION, STARTING FROM
THE CENTER, UNTIL THE PREPARATION
IS COMPLETELY EMULSIFIED. THE RESULT
SHOULD BE A HOMOGENOUS, LUSTROUS
AND SILKY SAUCE.
46

EMULSIFIED AND NON-EMULSIFIED GANACHE,

REFERRED TO AS “CURDLED” OR “SEPARATED”

Ultimately, it is logical that with such a high fat content (the chocolate) and little water, the texture
cannot be smooth or particularly elastic.
This aspect, though far from reassuring, is actually completely normal, and under no circumstance
should it be avoided by the untimely addition of liquid, for example, which often occurs. In this case,
the failure would be irreparable, since we would be unable to obtain the emulsion by any means
afterwards.
It is with the introduction of the liquid ingredient that the preparation quickly reaches its point of
“balance”, permitting it to form that elastic and glistening core, the sign that the emulsion is progressing.
In this way, there is no reason for alarm if the texture is “curdled” in the beginning, on the contrary,
it signifies that we are proceeding with the adequate rhythm and that, by applying efficient friction,
we are on our way to having an effective, consolidated emulsion.

For what purpose?

It is the principle of the mixture that, by intense friction, it bursts, divides, and organizes the binding
of the fats and liquids, in a fine and regular way.
Precisely due to this division, or disintegration, the emulsion is the action that diminishes, and even
suppresses the sensation of fat in the mouth when tasting the mixture.
For example, compare two preparations like vinaigrette and mayonnaise. The ingredients are very
similar, but for now let us focus on the fact that they share at least two main ingredients: oil and vinegar.
In the case of vinaigrette, the relation between the vinegar, mustard, and oil is proportionately two
parts vinegar to six parts oil. For mayonnaise, the proportions change to fifteen parts oil, more or less.
Still, when we taste a salad with vinaigrette the sensation of fat in the mouth or on the lips is more
pronounced than that of a deviled egg with mayonnaise, for example.
 47

Mayonnaise, though much higher in fat than vinaigrette, does not seem so in the mouth.
This has a simple explanation.
In the case of our vinaigrette, the oil globules are not emulsified and therefore retain a considerable
size, perceptible in the mouth as a greasy film. Not unpleasant in itself, though it can be in certain
cases.
In the case of mayonnaise, the globules of oil have been “diminished”, or transformed.
In fact, under the effect of a large amount of friction, the principle behind emulsion, the diminished,
divided globules redistributed in the “water” provide a completely different sensation
when they dissolve in the mouth.
Foie gras is an excellent example. No less than 80% fat yet, whether it is raw or cooked, but
not overcooked, there is no perception of the fat whatsoever. It is even unctuous, creamy, and fresh
in the mouth.
On the other hand, if the foie gras, in terrine for example, has been overcooked, its fats separate from
the mixture. Crystallized, the foie becomes “fatty” in the mouth, a phenomenon explained by the fact
that the size of the globules, which have become abnormally large, makes it difficult to dissolve in
the mouth when eaten. In savory cuisine as well as pâtisserie, emulsion is for me the “magic” act
that allows us to incessantly mix different fats together without provoking a heavy sensation
or greasiness in the mouth.
The examples are surprising and numerous, as we will see!
Mayonnaise, beurre blanc, hollandaise sauce, ganache, chocolate mousse, chocolate fondants,
lemon cream or crème brulée… and many others. Countless recipes in which all sorts of fats coincide,
yet they pass unnoticed, or even seem light and supple at times.
Another good example… the chocolate mayonnaise that we serve with cod.

ABOVE, HEAVY CREAM WHIPPED SOFTLY,

WITH AN ORGANIZED STRUCTURE DISTINGUISHABLE
BY THE FINE ALVEOLI. BELOW, THE APPEARANCE
IS ANARCHIC AND HEAVY DUE TO EXCESSIVE
WHIPPING.
48

WHIPPING

The incorporation of air into a product capable of holding it

Egg whites, heavy creams…
In general, whipping tends to be done too quickly. It is important to know that the robustness
of a whipped ingredient—the stability of its volume—depends directly on the way it was whipped.
At high speeds, the whipping will end up anarchic, with air bubbles too large and uneven, and
therefore fragile mixed.
Conversely, the more you slow down the whipping process, retaining all the adequate proportions,
the smaller and more uniformly distributed the bubbles will be, often providing even a larger volume,
but above all a more stable and robust result.
This explains why it is recommended to “whip” at a moderate speed all preparations that call for
the least amount of volume.

For what purpose?

To obtain airy, mousse-like textures.
For a supple, soft, and light consistency.

CHOCOLATE TEMPERING

I could give you a very complex explanation of the principle of crystallization in cocoa butter,
but I do not want to run the risk of conveying an undecipherable image of chocolate, because
complexity is not its only characteristic. Without trying to make you experts in cocoa butter
crystallization, the following explanations attempt to make a product as fascinating as chocolate
a little bit more accessible. The crystallization of cocoa butter is in fact rather complex, but it can be
described in a more simple fashion, and that is what I intend to do!
Cocoa butter has a very particular way of crystallizing. It is a lazy fat that, once melted, is incapable
of regaining its original, crystalline form of its own accord.

CRYSTALLIZATION METAPHOR
 49

LEFT, PROPER
TEMPERING.
BELOW, A LUSTROUS
CHOCOLATE PLATE.

It is polymorphous
poly=many and morph=form
This means that as it hardens, it adopts different forms of crystals; four, to be exact.
Only one of these forms is stable and possesses a high fusion point, the Beta form.
Only this form assures the shiny, brittle, and retractable characteristics of chocolate in a mold.

Aside from its polymorphism, it is also monotropic

This means that the crystals only transform in one way: from the lowest fusion point to the highest.
This explains why, during tempering, the crystals with higher fusion points inhibit the preceding
crystals with low points.
It is a series of operations that allow chocolate to be transformed from a liquid form to a stable, solid
form. More often we speak of the “pre-crystallization” stage.
50

ABOVE, RESULT OF DEFECTIVE TEMPERING: BLOOMING OF DARK CHOCOLATE,

AND RIGHT, OF WHITE CHOCOLATE
 51

For what purpose?

Tempering allows us to obtain, in a sufficiently quick (but not too quick) way, a “seed” of “stable”
crystals that favor good preservation of the chocolate. Many times it is considered a simple
aesthetic act:
“I temper in order to create a chocolate with brilliance”; which is also true! However, this is not the
primordial reason for tempering.
It consists of constructing an organized architecture of different kinds of cocoa butter crystals,
allowing the chocolate to return to its initial fusion point; in other words, to give back its brittleness,
creaminess, and freshness when melting in your mouth.
Proper tempering also facilitates the removal of chocolate from molds when working with bonbons
or decorative pieces.
In fact, it is precisely this organized architecture of crystals that, by compressing, ease this “removal”
so sought after by professionals.
This is why a molded chocolate without much brilliance, and therefore poorly tempered, cannot be
easily removed from molds, or not at all: a sign of failed tempering.
Tempering also makes the chocolate less vulnerable to humidity and, in the end, gives it the satiny
brilliance that is so appealing to the eye, while at the same time limiting the risk of “blooming”
(whitening) from fats and sugars.

How?
The process can be divided into four essential stages:

1) Completely melt the cocoa butter crystals to obtain the most virgin base possible.
The better the chocolate is melted, and the more time devoted to this stage, the more fertile the terrain
will be for a good crystallization of the cocoa butter.
Method: melt the chocolate at a minimum of 45ºC/113ºF for at least 10-12 hours.

2) Allow a certain proportion of stable crystals to form in liquid chocolate.

This is what we frequently refer to as the “seed chocolate”. If this is well done, with good tempering,
it will conserve the crystalline form of the crystals necessary for the hardening of the chocolate
and its sheen.
Method: cool the chocolate until it reaches a precise temperature, which is when the cocoa butter
crystals form, in the necessary way to produce a brittle and lustrous chocolate.

3) Reserve a seed of stable crystallization in liquid chocolate.

This entails controlling the adequate temperatures to conserve a chocolate that is sufficiently fluid
to work with, but sufficiently “crystallized” to preserve the qualities of the tempering.

4) Cool and crystallize the chocolate in a stable crystalline form.

This consists of ensuring good preservation of the product, from the pure to the transformed state.
Tempering renders the chocolate less vulnerable to odors, light and heat.

To make stable butter crystals, the crystalline form we want, unstable crystals must also be made—
that is, crystalline forms we do not want. We therefore have to get rid of these unstable crystals. This
is not too complicated: the more regular and steady the cooling process is, the more stable the crystals
will be as well.
52

TEMPERED COUVERTURE
This explains why marble, thanks to its regular diffusion, is such a perfect tool for tempering.
The importance of constant and effective mixing or stirring is that it results in a finer, more regular
crystallization. A static cooling process can result in anarchic crystallization and provokes a rapid
thickening of the mixture.
Reaching and exceeding 28.5ºC/83.3ºF…
This consists of exceeding the theoretical fusion point of the unstable crystals without damaging
the stable crystals that melt above this mark. These unstable crystals are bothersome because their
action does not benefit our work in any way.
Maintain it at 31/32/33ºC, or 88/89.5/91ºF…
To avoid an increase in unstable crystals and especially to preserve the vital presence of stable crystals.

To summarize
Tempering is a crucial process for good chocolate, understanding “good” in the sense of tasting:
brittle, meltable and fresh. It allows us to give the chocolate that lustrous, satin finish. It renders it
less vulnerable to humidity and odors.
The better a chocolate is decrystallized, the more it will recrystallize in an organized fashion.
The more effective and regular the mixing is, the finer and more stable the crystals will be.
The faster the temperature can be raised above 28.5ºC/83.3ºF, to around 31/32ºC/88/89.5ºF,
the quicker the unstable crystals will disappear to leave space for a fluid and crystallized couverture.
 53

KEY ELEMENTS
OF SUCCESSFUL TEMPERING

Although it seems archaic, manual tempering over

marble (which cools the chocolate with regularity)
is, in my opinion, the most advisable, even though
there are numerous machines designed to cool the
chocolate in a slow and regular way.

1 Pour 3/4 of the melted, hot chocolate over the

marble at room temperature. Keep the remaining
1/4 of the chocolate hot, in a bain-marie, for
instance.
2 Once on the marble, mix the chocolate with

sufficiently wide instruments to avoid mixing too

rapidly (which results in the incorporation of air
bubbles, rapid thickening, and mediocre luster).
3 With the help of an electronic gauge or precise

thermometer, check the temperature regularly.

When it reaches between 26 and 27ºC, or 78.8 and
80.6ºF for milk chocolate, and between 28 and
29ºC, or 82.4 and 84.2ºF for dark chocolate,
cooling should be immediately stopped.
4 By pouring in the remaining 1/4 of hot

chocolate, and promptly mixing, the cooling

process is stopped. In this way, we obtain a satiny,
fluid couverture. Adjust the temperature to
28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF for milk chocolate, and
31-32ºC/87.8-89.6ºF for dark chocolate.
54

INSTRUCTIONS FOR TEMPERING DIFFERENT KINDS OF CHOCOLATE

For white chocolate

Melt the couverture at 45-48ºC/113-118.4ºF (max) for 10-12 h.
Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.
Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 26-27ºC/78.8-80.6ºF, mixing constantly.
Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that
the resulting temperature is between 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF.
If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave
(on a low power setting).

For milk chocolate

Melt the couverture at 45-48ºC/113-118.4ºF (max) for 10-12 h.
Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.
Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 27-28ºC/80.6-82.4ºF, mixing constantly.
Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that
the resulting temperature is between 29-30ºC/84.2-86ºF.
If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave
(on a low power setting).

For dark chocolate

Melt the couverture at 50-55ºC/122-131ºF (max) for 10-12 h.
Remove approximately 1/3 of the couverture and keep it hot.
Cool the remaining 2/3 of the chocolate to 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF, mixing constantly.
Once the temperature is reached, add the remaining 1/3 of hot couverture, mix, and check that
the resulting temperature is between 31-32ºC/87.8-89.6ºF.
If necessary, warm by adding more hot couverture, or by transferring it to a bain-marie or microwave
(on a low power setting).

HOW TO PRESERVE THE CHOCOLATE

Away from light

The refraction of light in the crystals can result in abnormal lightening of the chocolate, typically with
white chocolate.

In a dry place
Sealed and out of contact with the humidity generally found in a cellar or refrigerator.
The chocolate should be kept in a sealed container due to its fat content, which makes it vulnerable
to odors both good and bad. And like any food, it can also lose its own aromas!

In a cool place
It is much less sensitive to temperature conditions than one might think.
It tolerates temperatures of 22-25ºC/71.6-77ºF without any problem, but 13-15ºC/55.4-59ºF is
the ideal temperature range for preserving it under optimal conditions.
 55

TWO TYPES OF BLOOMS

When a chocolate has not been perfectly tempered, it runs the risk of its fats “blooming”. This consists
of a “fatty” film with fine, regular grains that sometimes produces shadows or white lines.
The phenomenon causes the chocolate to be noticeably fatty, with a waxy flavor, and a decidedly
reduced aromatic intensity. The presence of certain elements of fat in fillings such as praline or almond
paste can cause blooms to occur.
If the storage temperature fluctuates, or is excessive, “fat” blooms will appear.
The chocolate will have a matte finish to it, with a fine, grainy appearance, usually regular in structure,
or extremely irregular if it has been subjected to high temperatures. A chocolate bar forgotten in the car
in July is a good example of fat bloom.
Out of curiosity, try this chocolate after it has hardened. It is very interesting. First of all, it becomes
completely deformed, as well as white, streaked, very hard, and waxy to taste.
In this way, we can easily see that the cocoa butter is incapable of recuperating its initial crystalline form
on its own. Therein lie the virtues and importance of proper tempering. When storage conditions are not
adequate, in other words, when there is too much humidity or when it has been left too long in
the refrigerator, blooms appear from the sugar.
It has a coarse appearance, perceptible by touch, and has the particularity, contrary to fat blooms, of not
disappearing when we lightly rub the surface. As the sugar crystals transform, it has a superficial effect
and causes the chocolate to lose its brittle, crunchy character.
Due to its dry nature, chocolate’s main enemy is humidity, to which it is very sensitive. For this reason
it is imperative not to leave unrefined chocolate, or chocolate with fillings, in the refrigerator for long
periods of time to avoid the formation of condensation which is responsible, among other things,
for sugar blooms.
BELOW, FAT BLOOM. RIGHT, SUGAR BLOOM.
56

TO EACH ITS ROLE

To concretize these culinary ramblings, it is necessary to have at least a minimal knowledge of food
and, in particular, to comprehend the behavior of chocolate in regard to its use in both savory and
sweet cuisine. For this to work it is indispensable to understand and retain the following key points:

The crystallization point

The crystallization point refers to the temperature at which a liquid fat becomes solid when subjected
to cold. The fat globules change and adopt a crystalline form, whereby they agglomerate and form
whole crystals.

The fusion point

The fusion point refers to the temperature at which a crystallized fat begins to melt and liquefies
under heat. Certain preparations require crystallization, such as the “foie gras nougat”, contrary to
others, such as mayonnaise or béarnaise sauce, or any sauces or creams for that matter that are
prepared or used above the fusion point so that they retain their elasticity, brilliance and creaminess.
In other words, always above 28ºC/82.4ºF – and between 30/86 and 35ºC/95ºF is preferable
depending on the preparation.
EXAMPLES OF AN EMULSIFIED MAYONNAISE AND
ONE THAT IS CURDLED (NO EMULSION OR
DEFECTIVE EMULSION)
 57

DAIRY BUTTER
IN DIFFERENT FORMS

When making a mayonnaise, no one would think to use a thermometer to occasionally check
the temperature because it does not seem, and is not, necessary in order to obtain good results.
In this book we created a chocolate oil that we use to prepare the “chocolate mayonnaise”,
which is like normal mayonnaise with one exception: the “oil” needs to be kept at the fusion point,
or almost “hot”.
Like many fats, cocoa butter has its own mechanism that is different from oil and actually closer
to dairy butter. The fusion point of dairy butter is between 29/84.2 and 31ºC/87.3ºF, depending
on the season, but remember that the fusion point of cocoa butter is in the vicinity of 34ºC/93.2ºF.
With the exception of anhydrous butter, all butters lose their emulsion above a certain temperature
and will be, unlike cocoa butter, incapable of recovering their original crystalline or emulsified forms.
The different states of heated butter: from classic butter or decanted butter, on through pomade butter
in which the emulsion is preserved, melted butter whose emulsion is destroyed, and finally normal
or fragmented liquid clarified butter –Valrhona liquid butter–.

Cocoa butter, a capricious fat

Obtained from the cacao bean, it is a polymorphic fat, which means it crystallizes in different ways.
Like all vegetable products, it is free of cholesterol. It is a material that crystallizes in a very particular
way. The term butter was given to cocoa because of its clear, yellow appearance and fairly hard
texture.
When compared to other fats that we know, cocoa butter has one of the highest fusion points of all.
Its crystallization point is also much lower but it must be carefully monitored due to its complexity.
58

ABOVE, LIQUID,
CRYSTALLIZED COCOA BUTTER.
OPPOSITE, LIQUID COCOA BUTTER,
JUST ABOVE 34.5ºC/94.1ºF.
 59

Although this book is not intended to be a treaty on the crystallization of cocoa butter, I hope
to clarify certain points concerning this transformation just the same. In my opinion these details are
very useful because they carry over into the preparation of certain dishes, in particular the
transparency of crab, a recipe that we designed and adapted this type of preparation for and, unlike
many “whipped ganaches”, retains a lightness and a remarkably silky whipped form.
To properly understand the mechanics of this type of transformation it will be preferable to refer
to “ranges” of crystallization and fusion, rather than “points” since no fat melts or crystallizes at an
exact, precise temperature.
It must then be understood that when we respectively speak of “points” we are referring exclusively
to the moment when the material is either completely hard or completely melted.
A second detail concerns the very nature of the ingredients. In fact, in my profession as a pastry chef
the term ganache is generally used to refer to this kind of emulsion. However, in most of the recipes
in this book the preparation is conducted starting with a sugarless base like chocolate or cocoa paste,
for elaborations of atypical pastry creams such as chocolate béarnaise, or even chocolate mayonnaise!
The appearance of these kinds of ingredients can be perplexing, but rest assured: these preparations
are not more difficult in and of themselves. To succeed, we will simply not approach too closely the
respective points of fusion and crystallization of the raw ingredient. In other words, we must control
the temperature of the mixture.
In fact, if I begin mixing a chocolate mayonnaise or béarnaise, and instead of maintaining the proper
heat for the preparation I mistakenly let it cool too much, I will approach a “critical zone” where the
cocoa butter starts to “recrystallize”. Often, through carelessness at this precise moment, professionals
who have almost succeeded with their mixture see how it begins to “curdle and separate” and end up
with a product that has unattractive textures and even unappetizing appearances! We must therefore
remember the 28ºC/82.4ºF temperature rule: it is at this point that the “mortar” begins to “cement”.
For those familiar with construction, and I know there are many in this profession of “self-made” men
and women who are, the principle is actually comparable to the functions of plaster or mortar.
Both have an ideal moment when they must be worked, after which their properties begin to break
down, it becomes “too late” and the end result is failure.
This is the characteristic of all material whose tendency is to crystallize.
To summarize, remember that cocoa butter melts (fusion) at 34-35ºC/93.2-95ºF, and for us, chefs
and pastry chefs, it crystallizes (crystallization) between 26 and 29ºC, or 78.8 and 84.2ºF, depending
on the chocolate.

SUMMARY

How does technology serve us in this profession? Why are there so many techniques and details? I like
the metaphor my wife Rika used when I posed the question of how to explain this matter: a good
mountaineer always carries a compass, a pilot never takes off without flight plans, and we always set
off with our recipes, but above all our little bag of technological tricks.
Technology should never seem superfluous, encumbering, or worse still, annoying. On the contrary,
in our daily work it is technology that explains our successes and failures, and furnishes us with the
ability to surpass ourselves by the simple comprehension of the mechanics of ingredients.
In my opinion, the talent of a chef or pastry chef invariably passes through this field of knowledge.
Moreover, it is often the case that the true experts in our profession are those whose attention
to technical detail, precision, and above all consistency become an almost maniacal reflex.
Chance, intuition, and improvisation are only valid insomuch as they provide a timely pleasure,
but they cannot substitute for technical foundation, the steadfastness of artisanship.
60

It bothers me to hear that for some professionals the word “artisan” becomes sometimes synonymous
with imperfect work, and that it has come to be used as a justification or an excuse.
I, for one, am convinced that the virtues conveyed by this magical word “art-isan” go much farther
than any simple accomplishment.
It is true that it can seem a little restrictive to limit oneself to identically reproducing the work
of another like a robot, but is it not gratifying in the end to approach this result, this almost
inaccessible joy that transmits to us those things that are “almost perfect”? And I say “almost” because
“perfect” does not seem to exist!
These brief reflections are not an attempt to abridge a philosophical thought, something that I would
be incapable of doing. They are simply an echo of the words of Claude Bourgignon, Pierre Hermé,
and Antoine Dodet, whose perfectionism guided me, and guide me still, in the course of these lines
that I address to you.
All that is left is for me to wish you the pleasure of discovering the surprise, to let your imagination
run wild, there, specifically where technology cannot reach!
61
64 A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERY DISH

66 HORS D’ŒUVRES

88 COLD APPETIZERS

110 HOT APPETIZERS

136 WATER

180 EARTH

230 CHEESES

244 SWEET DELIGHTS

274 MIGNARDISES

THE MENU
THE MENU 63
A CHOCOLATE FOR EVERY DISH

WHERE THE IDEAS COME FROM…

In the following dishes I’ve used every kind of chocolate product available to me, partly for pleasure
but mostly for the challenge.
Be it dark, bitter or sweet, milk or white, or even giandujas…
I purposely wanted to abstract the ideas and preconceived notions regarding this field, and in
particular sought to transcend the easy image of savory/sweet cuisine.
It was a fortunate starting point because Sébastien and I were surprised to discover such
unanticipated and delicious flavors, like the milk chocolate risotto for example, which, although it is
made with sweetened chocolate, goes far beyond a simple savory/sweet dish.
I have the opportunity to prepare this delicacy during the chocolate thematic dinners, where it has
become almost a fetish and variations are expected, even demanded of me!
I am convinced that for this kind of “culinary escapade” it is necessary to dismiss preconceived
notions and let our desires and imagination have the final say.

I THINK... CHOCOLATE
 65

HOW TO DECIDE ON A DISH

Naturally, we discovered that certain combinations work better than others; some are more complex
and at times the basic idea is difficult to construct, but the pleasure derived is that much more intense.
Whatever it may be, the risk is present and unavoidable, the trickiest part being to create a “balanced
cohabitation”.
What is it that orients us towards this chocolate or that? To say that a dish is made with chocolate,
whether bitter or sweet, provides us with a certain perspective but we must still define the dish’s
identity. Also, it is essential to cite the other main ingredients: the scallops, quenelles, foie gras…
At times it occurred that with just an idea, with my vision alone, I could intuit the chocolate that was
needed for a dish, but to be honest my vision has not always been so clairvoyant and many attempts
were often necessary to discover and decide on the proper balance for a dish.

FLAVOR IN THEORY… AND IN PRACTICE

We tried in vain to discover and organize flavor families. In fact, this was the most exciting part of the
adventure: nothing can be arranged or organized as we might have imagined; everything is a surprise,
which is generally what we expected, but not quite to the extent that we found it to be.

I MIGHT JUST AS WELL SAY…

Iodine and dark chocolate, rich in cocoa, above 60% - acidic but not bitter – happen to go very well
together.
It was pure intuition that made me dare to mix Manjari chocolate with my Norway lobster sauce
américaine. That was 10 years ago already! These little lobsters became the most seductive dish that
I have had the fortune to prepare over the years.
The astringency of fowl liver, like goose or duck foie gras, blends marvelously with bitter, strong
chocolates such as Araguani.
By no means do these combinations constitute a rule; it is all a question of instinct.
An instinct born of multiple experiences, where daring is essential.
I am convinced that the best advice to give you is this:
Allow yourselves to be transported, let yourselves go, imagine, dare to be bold, dare to try the opposite,
the abnormal, the illogical… you will see, the surprise will be that much more gratifying.
68 PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, SMOKED GANACHE,
WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA

72 ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUNG DRÔME GUINEA FOWL

IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO,
DILL AND TAHITIAN VANILLA

76 APSWEET CHOCOMOLE

80 THE MUMS SANDWICH

GRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE,
SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

84 CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS,

HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBIS MAURY WINE GELATIN

HORS
D’ŒUVRES
HORS D’ŒUVRES 67
68

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY
WITH WALNUTS, SMOKED
TO SURPRISE 10 TRAVELLING SOULS

GANACHE, WAFERS
OF CRISPY PANCETTA
Savory chocolate bonbons are not a recent with a white port or an easy Voge Saint-Peray
innovation. The first extravagances of this genre with wood fermentation.
are accredited to the celebrated and famous Jean- Do not, in an attempt to perfume the pancetta
Paul Hévin, a Parisian chocolatier. The taste is an with chocolate, try to fatten your pigs with cacao
arguable point, like almost everything. beans as is done in Japan where they feed beer to
Personally I adore them, and so the recipe their Kobe steers or, better still, matsuzaka; I do
naturally found its way into this book. Although not think it will work…
smoky notes are not especially appreciated in Moreover, you would have to go to the trouble of
reference to the quality of chocolate, after various finding a nice, relaxed pig that would let you do
tries they proved to be ideal! Hors d’Œuvres with it in the first place, if indeed it exists.
original combinations, they pair marvelously
69
 FOR THE SMOKED GANACHE

1 cup heavy cream • 1oz sliced smoked pancetta • 7oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Additional pancetta slices
70

2 4

3 5 6

Place the thin slices of pancetta in the oven at 130- Let cool, then grind in the food processor, then add mixing until all the liquid is incorporated. Season and
150ºC/266-302ºF until they are browned and dry. the cream. Boil the mixture and pour a third over the pour into a 3/8in. thick frame. Leave it to crystallize
Roast all the slices since we will need them later for chopped chocolate. Begin the emulsion and continue for 48 hours before cutting with the guitar slicer.
the presentation as well.

1. STEEP THE CRISPY PANCETTA IN THE BOILED

CREAM. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 5 MINUTES, STRAIN 4. GRADUALLY ADD THE CREAM IN CONSERVATIVE
THE PREPARATION THROUGH A CHINOIS. QUANTITIES TO OBTAIN, WITH A MINIMUM AMOUNT OF
LIQUID, A VISCOUS, SHINY TEXTURE.
2. BEGIN THE CHOCOLATE EMULSION WITH THE
PANCETTA PERFUMED CREAM. 5. ONCE THE MIXTURE IS FINISHED, THE TEXTURE
SHOULD BE VERY ELASTIC. VERIFY THAT THE 6. POUR THE GANACHE INTO A 3/8IN HIGH FRAME AND
3. AFTER A FEW SECONDS THE MIXTURE WILL TEMPERATURE IS 35-40ºC/95-104ºF BEFORE POURING LEAVE TO CRYSTALLIZE FOR 36 TO 48 HOURS BEFORE
SEPARATE. IT INTO THE FRAME. CUTTING.
SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS

3.5oz butter • 3.5oz glucose • 2/5 cup mineral water • 0.35oz pectin NH • 1oz powdered walnuts • 0.14oz fine salt •
0.1oz Sarrawak pepper • 3.5oz smoked pancetta, sliced
71

7 8

Bake and dry the pancetta slices in an oven at

100ºC/212ºF.
Cool and grind in a food processor.
Set aside.
In a saucepan, warm the butter, glucose, and water.
While mixing, add the pectin NH, salt, ground pepper
and powdered walnuts and bring to a boil.
Using the point of a spatula, spread out large teardrops
of the mixture and sprinkle with the smoked pancetta
powder.
Bake at 180ºC/356ºF for approximately 10 to 9
12 minutes to obtain a nice golden color. Set aside
in a dry place. When refrigerated, this paste can be
stored raw for up to a week with no problem.
Reheat in an oven or microwave to begin working
with it again.

TO SERVE
Break the additional toasted pancetta slices into small pieces.
Place about thirty little pieces onto a tray and distribute the smoked ganache
cubes over them. Position the pancetta transparencies with walnuts on top,
as well as a final piece of toasted pancetta.
It doesn’t get any better than this!

8. ADD THE WALNUT POWDER, SEASON AND

REFRIGERATE, OR USE IMMEDIATELY.

9. MAKE TEARDROPS WITH THE BACK OF A SPATULA

7. IN A SAUCEPAN, MELT THE BUTTER WITH THE AND BAKE AT LOW TEMPERATURE. STORE IN A DRY
GLUCOSE AND PECTIN AND BRING TO A BOIL. PLACE.
72
 73

RECIPE CALCULATED TO PREPARE 50 BONBONS

ORIGINAL BONBONS…
OF YOUNG DRÔME
GUINEA FOWL IN CHOCOLATE
CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL
AND TAHITIAN VANILLA
Has anyone thought of combining the chocolatiers who suddenly began
professions of chocolatier and caterer? Well, not thinking…salty!
as of yet they haven’t. As fresh as they are surprising, these bonbons
Here is a not too original morsel, an idea that were inspired by the classic “chaud-froid of
sprang from the imagination of some fowl”, taken from the copious buffets of caterers.
 SUPRÊMES OF POACHED GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS AND VANILLA

6 suprêmes of guinea fowl • 6 1/3 cups water • 1 grated vanilla bean • Shiso leaves • Dill leaves • Salt and freshly ground pepper
74

1 4 6

2 5 7

Place each guinea fowl suprême between two sheets of Poach the sausages in lightly boiling water
plastic wrap. Pound them with a mallet or the bottom for 8 to 10 minutes.
of a saucepan in order to lightly flatten them. Season Drain and cool rapidly in a blast cooler.
and perfume them with the dill, shiso and grated Cut into slices about 2/3in thick.
vanilla. Salt and pepper. Skewer them in the center and cool them in the freezer
Next, roll them tightly with the wrap so they adopt the for a few moments.
form of a perfect sausage. Close the ends with a string. Dip in the chocolate chaud-froid immediately.

1. ONCE ENCLOSED IN PLASTIC WRAP, FLATTEN

THE FILETS WITH A SAUCEPAN OR TENDERIZER.

2. SEASON AND PLACE HERBS AND OTHER 4. REMOVE THE WRAP AND CUT INTO 2/3IN THICK 6. HOLDING THEM BY A TOOTHPICK, SUBMERGE
CONDIMENTS ON TOP OF EACH FILET. SLICES. FREEZE FOR A FEW MINUTES SO THAT THE THE BONBONS IN THE CHOCOLATE MIXTURE FOR
CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID SOLIDIFIES QUICKLY. 3-4 SECONDS AND REMOVE.
3. ROLL TIGHTLY WITH THE HELP OF THE PLASTIC
WRAP AND TIE THE ENDS SO THAT THE SAUSAGE 5. DIP THE “BONBONS” IN THE WARM CHAUD-FROID, 7. THE CHAUD-FROID SHOULD BE ALMOST
REMAINS TAUT. 30-35ºC/86-95ºF. GELATINOUS AND SHOW A UNIFORM DENSITY.
CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID

2 1/2 cups whole milk • 1/4oz pectin X 58 • 1 2/3 tsp fine salt • 6oz Guanaja couverture 70% • Espelette pepper • Shiso leaves •
Dill leaves
75

Dilute the pectin with the salt. immediately, either directly with the skewer
While stirring, add to the hot milk and bring to a boil. or in a more traditional way, with the classic fork used
Gradually pour the liquid over the chocolate by chocolatiers.
to emulsify. Top with a few lines of the chaud-froid to add
Season with the salt and pepper. an authentic “bonbon” flare, and finish with the herbs.
Let cool until the preparation reaches 35-40ºC/
95-104ºF and dip the guinea fowl bonbons Warning: this chaud-froid cannot be frozen!

TO SERVE
Once dipped, the bonbons must be kept in the refrigerator.
They can be accompanied by savory cookies or puff pastries, salted shortbreads, or even
homemade potato chips, according to taste.
Another irresistible delight!
8. FORK DIPPING.
76

FOR DELICIOUS, SUCCULENT HORS D’ŒUVRES OR

APPETIZERS, TO SERVE 8-10 PEOPLE APSWEET CHOCOMOLE
No, the name is neither Dutch nor Danish: it is We wanted to offer an escapade… without
simply the only one I could find on my computer chocolate, and this is it.
to refer to these sweet hors d’oeuvres. It is just a A surprising marriage, even provocative, that
way to conjugate these sweet and sour flavors for opens our eyes and demands our attention.
them to share convivial moments. A game that From notes of honey and pyrazinoics, to fruity
Sébastien quickly became accustomed to – it is praline, molasses and tomato, and the sourness
he who devised these Apsweets – even if at the and acidity of balsamic, it is almost like snacking
time of writing this he still chooses to not on peanuts: an irresistible temptation.
recognize their name.
77
 FOR THE CRISPY SQUARES PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO

5 1/3oz hazelnut praline 60% • 3.5oz tomato concentrate • 2 or 3 tbsp high quality sweet vinegar, such as Melfort •
1 packet Chinese flat noodles • Clean oil for deep frying Salt and red Tabasco sauce • Spring lettuce leaves for decoration
78

Cut the square sheets of noodles in fours.

We should end up with squares of 1 1/2 to 2 inches
per side.
Pre-heat the oil to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF and throw
in the flat noodle squares.
Once they have turned a deep golden color,
drain them and place them on absorbent paper.
Keep them in a dry place until assembly.
4 5

Put the praline in a small bowl, or in a mixer for larger used in a pastry bag, but more importantly so that it is
quantities. While mixing, gradually add the tomato unctuous enough to simply be appetizing.
concentrate. The texture is oily and separated at first, Season and keep cold.
but little by little as we incorporate the vinegar it Garnish the crispy squares with the cream and insert
should become smooth and lustrous. a few spring leaves of your choice. Once assembled,
And so the emulsion is born! Finish by adding enough consume these Apsweets within the hour.
vinegar to obtain a sufficiently supple texture to be

1. FRY THE NOODLE SQUARES IN OIL HEATED TO 170- 3. BEGIN THE PRALINE EMULSION WITH THE TOMATO
180ºC/338-356ºF. CONCENTRATE.

2. COOK UNTIL THEY TURN A DEEP GOLDEN COLOR, 4. SEPARATION WILL OCCUR, AT WHICH TIME ADD 5. YOU SHOULD OBTAIN AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUS
THEN DRAIN ON ABSORBENT PAPER. THE REST OF THE INGREDIENTS AND MIX WELL. EMULSION.
AND THE PRALINE CREAM CRUSHED AVOCADO OR TOMATO WATER
WITH BALSAMIC NOTES GUACAMOLE

5 1/3oz hazelnut praline, 60% • 1 fl oz hazelnut oil • 1/4 cup

good balsamic vinegar • 2 or 3 tbsp water • Salt and freshly
ground pepper • Spring lettuce leaves for decoration 14oz ripe avocado pulp • 1 lemon • Salt and red Tabasco sauce 23oz very ripe tomatoes • Fleur de sel • Green Tabasco sauce
79

Put the praline and hazelnut oil in a small bowl, Roughly crush the avocado with a fork or a potato
or a mixer for larger quantities. While mixing, masher (as my grandmother would).
gradually add the balsamic vinegar. Add the lemon juice to preserve color and provide
The texture is oily and separated at first, but little a bit of freshness.
by little as we incorporate the vinegar it becomes Season and keep cold until serving time.
smooth and lustrous.
And the emulsion is born! Finish by adding enough
vinegar to obtain a sufficiently supple texture to be
used in a pastry bag, but more importantly so that
it is unctuous enough to simply be appetizing.
Season and keep cold. 6
Garnish the crispy squares with the cream and insert
a few spring leaves of your choice. Once assembled,
consume these Apsweets within the hour.

Put the washed, halved tomatoes in the freezer

overnight.
In the morning, put the tomatoes in a colander
positioned over a bowl and let them thaw and drain.
The juice will drip by itself without any pressing,
something that would make it cloudy. Season and
refrigerate. Serve in a glass.
TO SERVE A small detail: I fry the tomato skins along with
the noodle squares. They are as amusing and curious
I propose two versions.
to look at as they are to eat.
The tapas version: each person dips the crisps in the guacamole, and life is good!
The garnished plate version: preferable for the dining room.
For this, begin with a generous line of guacamole on the plate.
Insert 3 or 4 stuffed squares into the guacamole and accompany it with a small glass
of chilled tomato water.
Just saying it makes my mouth water…

6. WITH A PASTRY BAG, PIPE THE CREAM FILLING

BETWEEN TWO FRIED NOODLE SQUARES.

7. CHINESE NOODLE SQUARES OVER A BASE OF

CRUSHED AVOCADO.
80
 81

THE MUMS* SANDWICH

GRAVLAX SALMON,

FOR A T.V. PARTY OF AT LEAST 8 PEOPLE… WHO LOVE SANDWICHES!

CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE
MAYONNAISE, SWEET
AND SOUR RED CABBAGE
Here is one ingredient that has given us the most a part of the Bau family.
thought. My little brother Alexandre, Bau as well, who
The reason is that its delicate flavor is easily shares his life with his companion Birgitta.
canceled by the potent taste of chocolate. Both are designers, based out of Norway, in Dale
I chose to work from a base of Gravlax salmon, I Sunnfjord.
for reasons purely of personal taste. Currently they are working on rituals of nomadic
Its unique flavor and slightly different texture to tasting, through the production of objects
what we are accustomed to are due to the conceived for that end.
Scandinavian salting method. From this Ralston&Bau duo were born “Mums”
From the moment that Scandinavia entered our and “Mouillette”, among other products,
minds, the outline of the dish was already traced. designed to satisfy those snack-time desires and
A dish of Nordic inspiration in which we find to facilitate those moments when we do not
products and flavors typical of the region, know where to put the little things in our hands
including the chocolate, since Scandinavia ranks as we sit down to nibble. Problem solved for
very high in chocolate consumption worldwide. television addicts or fans of buffet dinners.
There you go! Everything is in place for a flashy Thank you, my brother, for your talent and for
t.v. snack. that of Birgitta, and good luck up there!
All that is missing is the tray, but no matter.
I will take advantage of this moment to introduce * Read: “yum-yum”, but in Swedish.
 FIRST, WE MARINATE THE SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED CONTINUING ON TO THE
BY GRAVLAX BAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS

Poolish (leavened)
8 3/4oz flour, type 45 • 1 cup water • 1/5 tsp baker’s yeast

Dough for cacao nib bread

17 1/2oz flour, type 45 • 5 1/3oz poolish • 2 tsp fine salt •
2 tsp baker’s yeast • 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups water • 2 1/3oz very
finely ground cacao nibs • 3 1/2oz very finely ground cacao nibs
1 red label salmon filet • 2.2lbs Guérande grey salt • 28oz crystallized sugar for decoration
82

We could very easily buy the bread, but I would like to

take this opportunity to let you discover the exquisite
flavor of bread made with cacao nibs, a relatively
unknown flavor. We gave it a shot, even if baking is
not really our business. The result was worth the
effort. The preparation of good bread begins with the
poolish, a type of natural yeast; suddenly the rhythm
slows down, like a return to a more simple way of life,
if you will.

1 3 The same day:

In a basin, get the water to a temperature of 25ºC/
77ºF, dilute the baker’s yeast, then add the flour. Mix
well and cover with plastic wrap, then pierce in several
points to favor the presence of oxygen without drying
the preparation. Leave at room temperature
for 12 hours.

The next day:

In a basin, sift in the 17 1/2 ounces of flour. Dilute the
yeast and the salt in half of the water. Add to the flour
with 5 1/3 ounces of poolish. Knead into dough by
2 4
adding water as needed. The dough should be supple
and very elastic. Proceed to the first rising of
Separate the filets or ask for it to be done when you water for a few minutes. Keep cold for 10 minutes approximately 1 hour and 30 minutes. Spread the
purchase the salmon. Conserve the scaled skin and before repeating the operation. dough again while kneading constantly, and add in the
carefully remove the bones with the help of pincers Properly dry the filet and wrap it in a dry cloth before very finely ground cacao nibs. Next, form the small
designed for this task. returning it to the refrigerator, where it should remain baguettes and begin the second rising after covering
Wash the filet and dry it properly with a cloth. for at least 3 days. the dough with a cloth to prevent hardening of the
Mix the sugar and salt together well. To serve, cut into fairly thin slices, depending on crust. It might be a good idea to spray them with a
Cover the base of a large plate with half the mix. personal taste. It should be noted that traditionally little water.
Top with a salmon filet, skin down, and cover with Gravlax is cut by holding the knife vertical to the filet, Preheat the oven to 210ºC/410ºF; place a container
a uniform layer of salt. and the portions should have a thickness of between filled with hot water inside if the oven does not have
Refrigerate for 10 to 12 hours. 1/2 and 2/3 inch. It is done this way to enhance a vapor valve.
Remove the filet from the salt and rinse under running the texture and flavor, a remarkable delicacy. After 25 to 30 minutes of rising, spray again with
water and with the help of a fine sieve, sprinkle
with ground nibs.
Make a few incisions in the dough with a moist knife
blade.
Place in the oven, preheated to 210-220ºC/410-428ºF,
and bake for approximately 20 to 25 minutes.
According to bakers, when the bottom of the baguette
“resonnates” when you tap it with your fingertips, it is
3. DISTRIBUTE THE SALT AND SUGAR MIX IN A a sign of properly baked bread. Make note of this!
UNIFORM MANNER TO OBTAIN A THICKNESS OF ABOUT
3/4IN AND LET SIT FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 HOURS IN
THE REFRIGERATOR.
1. PLACE THE SALMON FILET OVER A BED OF GREY
SALT AND SUGAR. 4. RINSE THE FILETS WITH COLD WATER AND DRY
PROPERLY. CONSERVE THEM WRAPPED IN A COTTON
2. COVER WITH THE SALT AND SUGAR MIXTURE. CLOTH FOR AROUND 3 DAYS BEFORE CONSUMPTION.
CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE… SWEET AND SOUR RED
JUST AS I HAD DREAMT CABBAGE COMPOTE
OF IT BEFORE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS

2 egg yolks (1 2/5oz) • 1 2/5oz whole grain mustard à

l’ancienne •1/6oz (5g) Colman’s powdered mustard • 2 2/3 tbsp
Sherry vinegar • 1 1/4-1 1/2 cups KKO oil (see page 284) • 17 2/3oz red cabbage • 1 3/4oz butter • 2 finely chopped
1 level teaspoon of very finely ground cumin • Salt and freshly shallots • 1 3/4oz superfine sugar • 3 1/3 tbsp Sherry vinegar •
ground pepper Salt and freshly ground pepper • Coriander seeds
83

Heat the KKO oil to about 40ºC/104ºF. Whip together

TO SERVE
the yolks, whole grain mustard, powdered mustard
Slice the small baguettes in half lengthwise.
and vinegar. Begin the “mayonnaise” by adding the oil
Spread the chocolate mayonnaise and top with salmon
gradually, as is customary.
slices.
If we test the temperature with our fingertips
Finish by adding a little cabbage compote and cover
and it feels warm, we are on the right track: it signifies
with the bread.
that we are above the minimum temperature
Accompany with a small dish of cabbage compote
of 28-29ºC/82.4-84.2ºF, the crystallization point
and a beverage of your choice.
of cocoa butter. This mayonnaise should be
A tantalizing evening awaits, whether romantic
maintained and consumed at room temperature,
5 or with friends.
in other words warm. Ok?
When refrigerated, it acquires the texture of a ganache,
but softens again a few minutes after taking it out.
The microwave is therefore a suitable tool for
returning the unctuousness to this sauce.

Finely slice the cabbage using a mandolin. In a wide

saucepan with high edges, lightly brown the shallots
in butter.
Deglaze with the vinegar, pour in the sugar,
and add the cabbage and coriander seeds.
Generously add water and simmer, without covering,
until the cabbage is tender.
Add water again if necessary and reduce in a way so
that the juice becomes syrupy and the cabbage is soft.
Refrigerate.

5. BROWN THE SHALLOTS IN BUTTER AND DEGLAZE

WITH THE VINEGAR.

6. FINALLY, ADD WATER AND CABBAGE AND REDUCE

TO A COMPOTE.
84
 85

CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED
GOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS,
HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND
RUBIS MAURY WINE GELATIN

FOR 8 GUYS AND DOLLS

In the course of the recipes that follow, you will Gaïk, a wine expert, it is remarkably authentic.
notice that certain ingredients have inspired The pleasant sharpness of the wine works
me almost insistently and I have not resisted marvelously with the abundance of flavor and
the temptation to prepare them. The “duck” especially the texture of this dish. This golden
family has belonged to this category ever since, morsel seduces us with its spiced aroma and
on my own, I discovered its surprising apparent fragility, but above all by its crispy
and unexpected complexity of flavor. Custom texture which visually noticeable.
practically dictates that we serve sweet, alcoholic The pyrazinoic and generous notes of the sautéed
wines with a foie gras. goose foie gras combined with the delicious,
For this hors d’oeuvre I preferred the tannic, potent character of the chocolate mousse, here
fruity notes of a Vintage or even a Vendanges. served hot and light, convert this simple glass
The Pouderoux winery of Maury excels both in into a most surprising voyage of explosive
product and production; acclaimed by Jérémie contrasts.
 BEGIN WITH THE MAURY CONTINUE WITH THE CRISPY NEXT, THE HOT CHOCOLATE
GELATIN PREPARATION MORSELS OF FOIE GRAS MOUSSE

1 cup fresh whole milk • 5 1/3oz (150g) Araguani couverture

1 bottle of Maury Vintage, Pouderoux winery • 1/10oz agar 72% • 1 3/4oz pasteurized egg whites • Salt and freshly ground
agar • 1 7/8oz sugar • Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 lobe of goose foie gras • Salt and freshly ground pepper pepper
86

Reduce the 750ml of wine to 450ml by gently Boil the milk and pour gradually over the chocolate to
simmering. make an emulsion.
Dilute the agar agar with the sugar and add it to the When the emulsion is complete, add the egg whites
simmering wine while mixing to help dilution. and season.
Bring to a boil and season to taste. Mix for a few moments and keep in a bain-marie for
Pour into a tray and set aside. immediate use, or in the refrigerator for later use.
If refrigerated, the gelatin will keep for 2 to 3 days.

Let the lobe soften at room temperature

for 30 to 45 minutes before unwrapping it.
In this way it will be easier to de-vein.
After having removed the veins and nerves,
cut it into cubes or pieces of about 3/4in on a side
and freeze them.
When they are well frozen place them in a sealed
container, ready for the mise en place.
Sauté as needed.

1. IN A DRY, HEATED SAUCEPAN, FRY THE FOIE GRAS

CUBES.
AND TO FINISH, THE CRISPY
BALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF

7oz Kadaïf dough • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 5 spice

mix • 1 lump melted butter
87

2 4 6

We will use this dough to make the balls, as well

as 10 discs of a diameter adapted to the size of the
glasses to be used.
Moisten the kadaïf dough with a spray-bottle.
Separate out 2.1 ounces of dough and make
10 thin discs of around 2 inches in diameter.
Salt and pepper the dough and add a little melted 5 7

butter, along with an adequate amount of spices.

Press a bit of dough between your fingers and fashion TO SERVE
a ball with a small spherical tea filter. Cut the gelatin erratically into shards. Fill the bottom of each glass with 2 soup spoons of gelatin. Place the well
Bake at low heat, between 150-160ºC/302-320ºF, browned, still hot foie gras morsels on top and cover with a Kadaïf disc. At the last moment top it with the very hot
until light golden brown. chocolate mousse. Finally, crown everything with a crispy ball of spiced Kadaïf.
And send it off… quickly, please!

6. FILL THE SIPHON WITH THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

MIXTURE. INJECT TWO CHARGERS OF WHIPPING GAS
AND RESERVE IN A BAIN-MARIE THAT IS NOT BOILING.
SHAKE THE SIPHON FROM TIME TO TIME DURING
SERVICE TO ENSURE A PERFECT TEXTURE.
2. TAKING CARE NOT TO OVER COMPRESS, FORM THE
KADAÏF DOUGH BALLS WITH A TEA FILTER 4. CUT THE MAURY GELATIN INTO SHARDS TO FILL THE 7. JUST BEFORE SERVING, TOP THE FOIE GRAS WITH
BOTTOM OF THE GLASSES. THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND PLACE A KADAÏF DISC
3. BAKE AT LOW HEAT, 150-160ºC/302-320ºF, UNTIL ON TOP. LASTLY, FINISH WITH A CRISPY BALL OF
LIGHT GOLDEN BROWN. 5. TOP WITH A FEW CUBES OF SAUTÉED FOIE GRAS. KADAÏF.
90 QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILK CHOCOLATE,
TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS,
AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL

94 NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE AND CARAWAY,

SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR BERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS,
AND CRISP LACE OF TOASTED BREAD

98 BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA AND
SANCHO PEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE

102 SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS,
CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET

106 FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGS WITH PINK PEPPER,
SPRING LEEKS IN SOY VINAIGRETTE

COLD
APPETIZERS
COLD APPETIZERS 89
90

QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK
AND MILK CHOCOLATE,
TOASTED BREAD STICKS
WITH FRESH HERBS,
SOMETHING SIMPLE FOR 8-10 DINNER GUESTS

AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH

PURPLE BASIL
Yes, we prepare this as if it were a gazpacho, even Innovation in the service of creativity - our
though in reality it is not. Gazpacho is actually sincere thanks go to the Adrià brothers.
made with raw vegetables, but here they are The complexity of this dish consisted in, once
cooked, and moreover these are not the ones again, the search for the appropriate chocolate
used for gazpacho. Basically it is a clever mix of to use, or in this case, chocolates.
lightly fried vegetables and chocolates in precise Confronted with the acidity, even the astringency
doses, accompanied by fresh herbs with of the vegetables, the choice of chocolate was
compelling flavors. It is calculated simplicity, complicated. To the point where I found myself
with a knowing wink to Ferran Adrià, to whom forced to moderate some of them with a touch
we owe the celebrated “espumas”, or foams. of milk. It is something rather interesting in the
An intelligent system that consists of replacing case of spiced preparations. I realized that
the classic crème fleurette in the siphons, basically it is the same role that coconut milk
used to serve whipped cream, with sweet plays in Indian cuisine.
or savory preparations of varied flavors,
and extract them in the form of foams with “I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with
ethereal textures. the best.” -Oscar Wilde.
91
 FOR THE GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES

1/4 cup olive oil • 4 2/5oz chopped onions • 1 3/4oz chopped shallots • 4 2/5oz celery stalk, roughly diced • 7oz fresh tomato pulp • 1 3/4oz tomato paste • 1L (about 1 quart) water • Red and green
Tabasco • 6oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 2 5/6oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • Salt
92

2 3

Sweat the onions and shallots in olive oil. Continue to mix, gradually adding more liquid
Next, add the celery, tomatoes and concentrate. until you have a uniform, elastic texture.
Cover with the water and simmer, half-covered with Adjust the seasoning with the different kinds
the lid, for 30 to 40 minutes. Blend and strain through of Tabasco and the salt.
a chinois. This recipe should allow us to obtain 1 to Blend for a few moments to achieve maximum
1 1/4 quarts of juice. Melt the chocolates together. homogeneity and stabilize the preparation.
Begin an emulsion by adding an initial amount of hot Refrigerate.
liquid.

1. WHEN THE VEGETABLES ARE FINISHED, BLEND THEM

FOR A FEW MOMENTS AND STRAIN. WEIGH THE TWO
TYPES OF CHOCOLATE.

2. BEGIN THE EMULSION OF THE VEGETABLES WITH 3. BLEND EVERYTHING FOR A FEW SECONDS
THE CHOCOLATES AND CONTINUE TO MIX AS YOU TO ENSURE A VELVETY TEXTURE ONCE COLD.
WOULD WITH A TRADITIONAL EMULSION. REFRIGERATE BEFORE SERVING.
FOR THE VEGETABLE FOAM FOR THE TOASTED BREAD
WITH PURPLE BASIL STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS

1/2qt water • 1 leek (green part only), chopped • 1 3/4oz

turnips, roughly diced • 1 3/4oz carrots, roughly diced •
1oz chopped celery stalk • 1 3/4oz fresh tomato pulp • 3 gelatin 1 loaf of country bread • 1 3/4oz melted butter • 2 2/5 tbsp olive
sheets • 1/2oz finely chopped purple basil • Salt and red oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper • Tarragon, flat parsley and
Tabasco • 2 gas cartridges • 1 siphon purple basil leaves
93

In a pot combine the water and vegetables and simmer Cut thick slices of bread, approximately 5/8 inch
TO SERVE
for approximately 45 minutes. Strain through a thick, then cut them lengthwise into bread sticks,
Fill your cups of choice with chocolate gazpacho.
chinois and reserve 1/2 quart. Wrap in crushed ice about 5/8 inch wide. Cover them with a mixture
Cover with vegetable foam with basil and accompany
and rock salt to cool. Add the chopped basil, of butter and olive oil. Salt and pepper. Bake at
with bread sticks with fresh herbs.
macerate, and steep while cold for a minimum 210-220ºC/410-428ºF until golden. Dip the fresh
Little more to add since, after all, “more is not always
of 2 to 3 hours. herbs in the butter and olive oil mixture and arrange
better”.
Strain again and reserve a small quantity for dissolving them evenly on the bread sticks once cooled.
And so that it merits the name gazpacho, we consume it
the previously soaked and drained gelatin sheets. Serve warm.
very cold with warm bread sticks.
Mix with the rest of the cold stock and adjust
the seasoning before putting it into the siphon.
Cool the container with crushed ice for at least 1 hour
before syphoning.
The texture should be very foamy, uniform and fairly
resilient.
If it is not, it means that it is not sufficiently cold.
A few hours are ideal to allow the gelatin to act
correctly.
Syphon the foam just before serving.
94

THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN CALCULATED TO SERVE 8-10 PEOPLE NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS
WITH CHOCOLATE AND CARAWAY,
SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR
BERGERON APRICOTS
AND RAISINS, AND CRISP LACE
OF TOASTED BREAD
I wanted to see this classic of our cuisine done In the mouth it is practically a classic, with those
in a chocolate version. notes of caraway that remind me of Holland,
It was without a doubt one of the most and that slightly sour mix of gastrique*
complicated “pairing sessions”, and one which of apricots and raisins. The chocolate
required a numerous amount of tests, but now is omnipresent, yet yields the starring role
I am convinced: the resulting combination of the dish to the foie gras. Delectable!
is surprising!

* Translator’s note: Vinegar and sugar reduction that is used for sauces that accompany fruit, as with duck a l’orange…
95
 FOR THE MARINATED FOIE FOR THE GANACHE AND ASSEMBLY OF THE NOUGAT
GRAS WITH SALT

1 lobe of duck foie gras, approximately 21-24oz • 4 1/3lbs of 1 5/6 cups milk • 6oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/5oz finely ground black caraway • 1/14oz (2g) very finely ground fresh black
Guérande grey salt pepper
96

Coat the surface of a medium sized plate with grey

salt. Place the whole foie gras lobe on top and cover
again with salt. Refrigerate for 3 hours. Rinse with
water and dry. Take the lobe of foie gras out
of the refrigerator 30 to 40 minutes before preparation
so that it softens a little. This softening will make
de-veining easier.
De-vein it by delicately cutting the lobe at distinct
points. Separate 14oz of foie by choosing the largest
whole pieces, arrange them on a tray, and lightly salt
and pepper.
Refrigerate.
Weigh out 7oz of the remaining foie to mix with
the Araguani ganache. If there is any foie left over,
distribute it between the two quantities you have
separated already.

2 3

Boil the milk with the caraway and pepper. Lightly mix everything and pour into a 6x10 inch
Let it infuse for 3 to 4 minutes and emulsify with stainless steel mold with a height of 2 inches,
the couverture. Check that a temperature of previously coated with plastic wrap. Cover with plastic
35-40ºC/95-104ºF is reached. wrap and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours minimum before
Add the 7 ounces of fresh foie gras and blend to obtain serving.
a very fine, lustrous texture. Next, mix in the cold Cut with a warm knife.
pieces of foie gras that were refrigerated.

1. DELICATELY ADD THE VERY COLD PIECES OF FOIE

GRAS AND POUR INTO A CONTAINER COATED WITH
PLASTIC WRAP. REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT BEFORE
CUTTING.

2. REMOVE THE BLOCK OF CHOCOLATE FOIE GRAS 3. CUT INTO SLICES APPROXIMATELY 5/8IN THICK
FROM ITS MOLD. USING A WARM KNIFE.
GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS FOR THE CRISP LACE OF
AND RAISINS TOASTED BREAD

10 1/2oz Bergeron apricots, quartered • 3 1/2oz seedless

Muscat raisins • 2 1/2oz acacia honey • 1 1/3oz chopped
shallots • 1oz plum seed oil • 1oz sweet vinegar, Melfort type •
2 tbsp orange juice • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 1 loaf of dense country bread • Salt and freshly ground pepper •
A bit of sweet vinegar, Melfort type Melted butter
97

Remove the crust of the bread. With a meat slicer,

cut into very fine slices. Place onto a baking sheet,
lightly butter with a spray bottle, and slowly bake
at 120-130ºC/248-266ºF.
Keep in a dry place.

4 5

Brown the shallots in the plum seed oil. Once golden,

TO SERVE
add the honey and simmer. Deglaze with the orange
Slice the mosaic of foie gras at the last moment
juice and vinegar. In a saucepan, lightly fry the
to prevent it from oxidizing. Arrange the slices
apricots and raisins with the reduction until syrupy.
of foie gras and the toasted lace of bread in a staggered
Deglaze with a bit of sweet vinegar. Salt and pepper.
manner. Accompany with the gastrique of apricots
Keep warm.
and Muscat raisins. The mosaic of foie should
be consumed very cold and the fruits barely warm.

If, like me, you love sautéed zucchini flowers, do not

hesitate to sauté a few to add to the presentation…
and to your pleasure.

4. SAUTÉ THE FRESH APRICOT SLICES IN PLUM SEED

OIL AND HONEY. DEGLAZE WITH A BIT OF SWEET
VINEGAR. 5. SAUTÉ THE BABY ZUCCHINI “AL DENTE”.
98

BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI,

WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS
WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO
PEPPER, CRISPY RICE,
AN EXPERIENCE FOR 8-10 ADVENTUROUS SOULS

CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE

Being that Japan is my second homeland, means “red meat” in Japanese, while the other is
it would be difficult for me not to feel its more like ivory or pearl.
influences. It is where westerners with a taste for The version of tataki that I propose is remarkable
raw fish get all their wishes fulfilled. Tuna has in both its simplicity and its flavor.
numerous parts that are consumed, and certain Thanks to the dry preparation over a very hot
ones come at the price of gold, such as toro, flame, in other words seared or tataki, the meat is
for example, which is a part of the tuna belly very perfumed, just slightly firm; tender, rose
that is almost marbled. colored and juicy inside. We could almost see a
Luckily, unlike their counterparts at La Boqueria, resemblance to seared steak tartar, could we not?
the illustrious market on Las Ramblas in I imagined a cross between beef carpaccio
Barcelona, French fishermen have yet to discover and maguro sushi (tuna). Here, the beef has
that for connoisseurs this is the most coveted transformed into bluefin tuna. The Parmesan
part of the fish. It is why the price skyrockets at shavings have become white chocolate with
La Boqueria at the mere mention of this piece. sancho pepper, delicately perfumed with matcha
However, Rika delights in this cultural ignorance tea. The olive oil is now chocolate oil.
and treats us to this magical flesh at every chance The steamed rice is crispy here, fried with
she gets. seaweed, the age version, pronounced “agay”.
For the dish we are going to prepare, I have not And to finish, lemon juice has been replaced
chosen this part, which is the most fatty, because by sweet and sour citrus juice.
the accompaniment I had selected would not I think that this explanation will suffice to kindle
have been suitable; I preferred the akami, which the desire to don your aprons.
99
 WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS FOR THE TUNA TATAKI
WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO
PEPPER

17 1/2oz Ivoire white chocolate • 3 tsp very finely ground sancho

pepper • 1/2oz green matcha tea • 1 1/3 tsp very finely ground salt 2 filets of about 28-32oz • 17oz ice cubes
100

1 2 4

Melt the chocolate at a maximum of 45ºC/113ºF.

Add the rest of the ingredients and proceed to
tempering (consult the chapter “Chocolate Techno”
on tempering, page 48).
Once tempered, pour into a plastic container with
a minimum thickness of 3 cm. Refrigerate to
crystallize for 30 minutes and store at kitchen
temperature, 20-22ºC/68-72ºF.
Make the shavings with the tip of a spoon or a pasta
cutter.
Keep the chocolate, which is odor sensitive, in a sealed 5
container.
Separate the filets yourself or ask them to be separated
at the time of purchase. Wash thoroughly in salted
water for 2 to 3 minutes and rinse. Dry with a cloth.
Now to the cooking!
I discovered a great trick that allowed us to achieve
a spectacular tataki: the ceramic stove top.
No fat is needed for this preparation. It is the reason
for which this ancestral preparation is done over
abundant embers, but it is difficult to achieve
this in our modern kitchens.
Seeing this red burner in front of me, the light bulb
went on. I threw the filets directly on and… magic!
3
An extremely rapid coloration, just like in Japan!
And they don’t stick – perfect!
Submerge the filets in ice water as quickly as possible
afterwards, and that’s it.
No seasoning necessary for this preparation.
2. AKAMI MEANS “RED MEAT” IN JAPANESE. THE
VERSION OF TATAKI I PROPOSE HERE IS REMARKABLE
BOTH IN ITS SIMPLICITY AND ITS FLAVOR.

3. WITH THE TATAKI COOKED DIRECTLY ON THE

CERAMIC STOVE BURNER (“DRY” AND ON VERY HIGH 4. TO KEEP THE MEAT TENDER AND PINK, SUBMERGE
HEAT, OR RATHER, “A BURST OF HEAT”) THE MEAT THE FILETS IMMEDIATELY AFTER COOKING IN ICE
REMAINS VERY PERFUMED, APPROPRIATELY FIRM BUT WATER FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS, AND DRY WITH
TENDER, ROSE COLORED AND JUICY ON THE INSIDE… A CLEAN CLOTH.
AND IF THE JAPANESE WERE THE PIONEERS OF
1. SCRAPE THE SHAVINGS FOR THE WHITE CHOCOLATE GRILLED STEAK TARTAR? THE SAME EFFECT, 5. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED! CARAMELIZED ON
WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO USING A PASTA THE SAME PLEASURE… “ARIGATO GOZAÏMASU”, THE SURFACE AND VERY TENDER, ALMOST RAW
CUTTER. YES, TRULY, THANK YOU VERY MUCH. ON THE INSIDE.
FOR THE FRIED SUSHI EXOTIC CITRUS JUICE

3/5 cup fresh orange juice • 2 tbsp soy sauce • 4 3/4 tbsp sweet
Mirin sake • The zest and juice of 1 yuzu (in the absence of
10 1/2oz Japonica round rice • 4 tbsp rice vinegar • Nori seaweed leaves • Clean oil for frying yuzu, use a kaffir lime or regular lime)
101

Combine the orange juice, soy sauce and sweet sake.

Reduce until to a syrupy consistency.
Let cool. Add the zest and juice of one yuzu
or kaffir lime or regular lime.
Stir for a few moments and pass through an etamine
chinois.
Refrigerate.

6 8

TO SERVE
Cut the very cold tuna into slices with a maximum
thickness of 5/8 inch. Calculate three slices per person.
On cold plates, place the hot rice pieces, then the tuna
slices on top, and finally add some savory white
chocolate shavings with matcha tea. Finish with a few
drops of KKO oil (see page 284), some blanched borlotti
beans, and a drizzle of citrus juice.
Ready for departure… all aboard.
7 9

We could recommend the Japanese system of cooking thing that goes “pshhhhiiiitttttttt” just barely starts
here, but there would be too many who would not to whistle. Quickly stop the heat, without touching
have access to the necessary materials. Fortunately, the thing that goes… Wait exactly 12 minutes before
Frédérick E. Grasser divinely resolved this problem. depressurizing. Open. EXOTIC WORDS
In her book, Super cocotte, she offers numerous tricks Pour the rice into a salad bowl, add the rice vinegar,
The kaffir lime is a citrus fruit of the Indian Ocean
for cooking with a pressure cooker. So we will follow and stir it around with a spatula to aerate it. It has
region, with deliciously perfumed leaves and
her somewhat outlandish advice from the chapter a beautiful appearance, pearly and almost transparent. a delightfully acidic juice.
Céréales Killers. When it cools a little, fill moistened wooden molds
In a salad bowl, combine the rice and a cup of water. with the rice by pressing very gently, and remove from Mirin is a mild sake, appropriately acidic and sweet. It
With the palm of your hand, delicately press the rice the molds quickly. Next, cut with a very sharp, moist gives rice a fine, delicate flavor as well as a refreshing
note that compliments sushi nicely. It is also used in
to clean and “sharpen” it, or rather considerably knife in slices approximately 3/4 inch thick.
other applications.
reduce its diameter. This happens to be the method Roll a strip of Nori seaweed around it.
used to prepare sake. Change the water two or Heat the frying oil to 175-180ºC/347-356ºF. Nori refers to deep green seaweed leaves, dried and
three times, until it becomes clear. Put the rice on the Drop the rice pieces in and brown. crunchy. They serve as the base of many dishes,
bottom of the pressure cooker. Place your palm flat The frying should take place at the last moment including the very well-known sushi.

over the rice and cover with water until your thumb is to achieve a delicious contrast of textures and
Oshizushi is a rice mold, similar to the molds we use
submerged. Bring to a boil on low heat until the little temperature. for butter, that facilitates the traditional preparation of
sushi shaped in bars made of layers of rice, fish in its
brine, and seaweed.

Sancho is a kind of Japanese pepper, extremely mild

with notes of citronella and Szechuan pepper.
6. SPECIAL MOLD CALLED OSHIZUSHI: MOISTEN
IT WITH COLD WATER BEFORE FILLING IT WITH A LAYER 8. CUT WITH A VERY SHARP, MOIST KNIFE IN SLICES
OF RICE. 3/4IN THICK. WRAP IN A STRIP OF SEAWEED. Yuzu is a small citrus fruit that resembles a wrinkle
7. PRESS USING THE LID OF THE OSHIZUSHI AND 9. HEAT THE OIL TO 175-180ºC/347-356ºF AND LEAVE lime. Its peel has an entirely unique flavor, but it has
REMOVE THE MOLDED RICE. THE RICE PIECES IN UNTIL GOLDEN. practically no juice whatsoever.
102
 103

SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB,

TOMATO WATER GELATIN
WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS,

THE AWAKENING OF 8-10 SLEEPERS

BY AN UNFORESEEN DISCOVERY
CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY WITH
CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET
As I said before, I discovered in my research that it hardens! However, after many attempts,
iodized flavors go well with chocolate, especially we are now proud of the result.
with dark chocolate. I admit that the attempts We managed to wake the lazy crab in this dish
made with sweeter chocolates were not of surf and turf.
conclusive, even though I thought I could The cohabitation of the crab and the whipped
combine them with the bitterness of ganache with crab and chorizo fumet creates
the crustaceans. But I didn’t succeed, at least not extraordinary delicacy and complexity.
for this book! The idea that we were entertaining, The combination is further exalted by the sweet
Sébastien and I, was to create a cold appetizer, and sour tomato gelatin and crispy fried noodles.
which is not easily done with chocolate because It is divinely refreshing and original.
 TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH SHREDDED CRAB WITH FUMET WHIPPED GANACHE
PIQUILLO PEPPERS “CHANTILLY” OF CRAB AND
CHORIZO FUMET

5/6 cup crab fumet • 1/5 cup boiled heavy cream •

28oz very ripe tomatoes • 1/7oz agar agar • Fleur de sel • 3 dungeness crabs • 1 green leek stalk • 1 chopped onion • 3/5oz Spanish chorizo • 7oz Manjari chocolate 64% •
Espelette pepper • Piquillo peppers 1 cup dry white wine • 2 sprigs of flat parsley • Juice of 1 lemon 1 2/3 cups cold heavy cream • Salt and Espelette pepper
104

1 3 5

2 4 6

Put the washed and halved tomatoes in the freezer In a pot of your choice, place all the ingredients, Boil together the fumet and 1/5 cup of heavy cream.
overnight. add the live crabs and cover with water. Let simmer Add the chorizo cut into small cubes, and steep
In the morning, place them in a colander over a bowl while covered for 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the crabs for 10 minutes, covered.
and let them drain. and conserve the stock. Extract the meat from the shell Strain through a chinois and pour, little by little, over
The juice will drain by itself, without the need while being as careful as possible to leave the claws the chopped chocolate to begin an emulsion. Blend
for pressing the tomatoes, which would make the juice intact for the aesthetic value of the dish. Reserve for a few moments before adding the 1 2/3 cups
cloudy. the shell and other parts to add to the cooking stock. of cold cream. Adjust the seasoning and refrigerate
As soon as possible, set aside the 1 pound of tomato Shred the remaining meat, lightly flavor it and the legs for a minimum of 3 hours, ideally overnight.
water needed for the recipe. Heat the juice with lemon juice, and refrigerate. Before serving, or at the last moment, whip
to 40-50ºC/104-122ºF, dilute the agar agar using Slowly boil the stock with the added shell and the ganache at very moderate speed to obtain
a whisk, season and bring to a boil. remaining parts for 20 minutes and strain it through an exceptionally fine, unctuous foam.
Let it cool a bit and pour the mixture onto a baking a chinois.
sheet covered with plastic wrap to a height of 1/12 to The lightly concentrated juice is very perfumed
1/8 inch (2 to 3 mm). Sprinkle with a fine julienne and slightly unctuous.
of piquillo peppers and refrigerate until serving. At least 5/6 cup is needed for this recipe.
The rest can be used for soup or a sauce by adding
a little cream, to accompany a fish of your choice.

1. PREPARE THE TOMATO AGAR AGAR GELATIN. BOIL

WELL.
5. ONCE THE GANACHE OF CRAB FUMET CRYSTALLIZES
2. POUR THE GELATIN TO A THICKNESS OF 1/8IN ONTO AND COOLS, WHIP SLOWLY WITH A WHISK.
A BAKING SHEET AND SPRINKLE WITH THE PIQUILLO 3. DUNGENESS CRAB BEFORE…
PEPPER JULIENNE. LET IT SET AND KEEP 6. ONCE A FOAMY, CONSISTENT TEXTURE HAS BEEN
REFRIGERATED. 4. …AND WHILE BOILING. OBTAINED, MAKE A BALL USING AN ICE CREAM SCOOP.
CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES

1 packet Chinese noodle squares • Paprika and fine salt •

Clean oil for frying
105

Heat the oil to 180-185ºC/356-365ºF and submerge

the noodle squares. When they are well browned,
drain and place on absorbent paper. Season and set
aside.
Just before serving, break them into small pieces to fill
the bottom of the glasses.

7 9

TO SERVE 8 10
Fill the bottom of the glasses with the ground, fried
noodles.
Cut about 20 square slices of the tomato gelatin,
2 inches on a side, for a whisky glass.
Place a gelatin square in each glass, topped
by the shredded crab with lemon juice.
Cover with another gelatin square and finish by placing
a ball of crab and chorizo fumet ganache using a warm 9. PLACE ANOTHER SQUARE OF TOMATO GELATIN
ON TOP, CROWNED BY A BALL OF CRAB FUMET
ice cream scoop. 7. JUST BEFORE SERVING, GARNISH THE BOTTOM GANACHE. SEASON WITH ESPELETTE PEPPER FLAKES
OF THE GLASSES WITH THE CRISPY, FRIED PAPRIKA AND TOP WITH THE CRAB CLAWS.
Garnish with the claws and some alfalfa sprouts. NOODLES.
10. COVER WITH ALFALFA SPROUTS AND SEASON.
Consume very cold. It’s delicious, and it wakes you up! 8. TOP WITH A SQUARE SLICE OF TOMATO GELATIN FOR DECORATION, SIMPLY ADD A BIT OF SEA LETTUCE
AND COVER WITH SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB. TEMPURA.
106
 107

FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE,

WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGS
WITH PINK PEPPER,

RECIPE FOR A JOURNEY OF 8-10 PEOPLE

SPRING LEEKS
IN SOY VINAIGRETTE
Fortunately for us, some dishes seem to spring From this newfound love came the inspiration
from pure pleasure. For me, this is one of those for the true/false chocolate tofu.
dishes. True in its texture and false in its flavor.
We find in it flavors and textures for which And I adore the smoked haddock for its flavor
I have a special affection. Curiously enough, as well as its texture.
tofu was one of the things that was difficult for The baby leeks in vinaigrette, to which the soy
me to like when I first arrived in Japan. It is not gives a Japanese air, are ideal. The notes of fumet
the flavor that shocked me, so much as with fragrances of cardamom combined with
the texture. A quivering gelatinous texture that the chocolate and smoky notes of the fish offer
we are not accustomed to. I quickly changed aromas of spiced caramel, almost like mole. If for
my opinion after tasting Kinu-tofu, which means nothing else, the trip is worth it just for this! It is
“silky tofu”. It has a texture more like a crème unnerving, our taste buds are overwhelmed, but
brûlée, a true delicacy. the essential is here, and we revel in it.
 LIKE TOFU… WITH CHOCOLATE THE SPRING LEEKS THE SOY VINAIGRETTE

1lb fish fumet (See page 284) • 2/3 cup heavy cream • 8 pistils
of saffron from La Mancha • Seeds from 5 cardamom pods •
5 1/3oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/7oz agar • Salt and 1/5 cup soy sauce •1 1/3 tbsp water • 2/5 cup grapeseed oil •
Espelette pepper 20 baby leeks • 1L water (about 1 quart) • Salt 1 tbsp lemon juice
108

Wash the leeks with water and boil. Short cooking Combine all of the ingredients without blending them.
time is recommended so that the leeks preserve their This sauce should remain “disassociated” or, in other
original texture. Drain and refrigerate. words, not emulsified: as chefs say, “with eyes”.
Refrigerate.

Make a good white fish fumet. Boil the fumet and

infuse the saffron and cardamom for about 5 minutes.
Using a whisk, dilute the agar agar and follow
by adding the cream. Bring to a rolling boil but
be careful not to whisk too much to avoid the
formation of air bubbles that will be difficult to get rid
of later. Pour the boiling mixture over the chopped
chocolate so that it just covers it. Blend with a whisk
to emulsify. Gradually add the rest of the liquid while
stirring constantly to maintain a smooth texture.
Strain through a chinois.
Adjust the seasoning and pour into a 1 1/5 inch
high container. Let it cool and crystallize overnight
before use.
At serving time, cut into squares or rectangles,
as desired.

1. PREPARE AN EMULSION WITH THE FISH FUMET

AND CHOCOLATE. ADD THE AGAR AGAR AND BOIL.
ADJUST THE SEASONING AND POUR INTO A 1 1/5 INCH
HIGH CONTAINER. REFRIGERATE OVERNIGHT BEFORE
SERVING.

2. CUT THE GELATIN INTO IDENTICAL RECTANGLES.

THE PLEATED HADDOCK

17 1/2oz haddock filet • 3 cups fresh whole milk • Red berries • Espelette pepper
109

Soak the haddock in the milk for a minimum

of 3 to 4 hours. Rinse and dry with a clean cloth.
With a fish knife, cut slices that are not too thin
and place them on sulphurized paper, in a zigzag
formation, forming a pleated rectangle.
Refrigerate this mise en place.
Lightly steam. Before serving, sprinkle with a few red
berries and a pinch of pepper.
4

TO SERVE
In an appropriate fashion, place the very cold
rectangles of faux tofu on a plate.
Arrange the leeks so that they encircle the tofu and
lightly dress with the vinaigrette.
Finish by simply placing the pleated haddock on top,
very hot… and send it off!

4. FORM RECTANGLES BY PLACING THE HADDOCK

IN A ZIGZAG FORMATION AND SEASON WITH
3. AFTER SOAKING IN MILK, DRY THE HADDOCK AND THE CRUSHED RED BERRIES. STEAM
SLICE IT. WITH A COUSCOUSIERRE AND SERVE WARM.
112 ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES,
PARMESAN TUILES

116 DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME,

GINGER AND SOY SAUCE

120 RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE,

VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE,
IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE

124 MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ,
SPRING RAIN CRISP

128 ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CHOCOLATE SAUCE

WITH RAW AND ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS,
CRISPY CHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVES

132 CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE, BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES,

LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS

HOT
APPETIZERS
HOT APPETIZERS 111
112
 113

ANISE-SMOKED
RACK OF PORK RISOTTO,

AN UNEXPECTED VOYAGE ORGANIZED FOR 8-10 PEOPLE

SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES,
PARMESAN TUILES
When we hear the word risotto, we naturally delicious aromas. On the recommendation of the
think of Italy. And when we smell ribs smoked maître d’ I dove into the experience, overcoming
with star anise, we are immediately transported my initial reticence…
to Chinese open markets. It was in Tokyo that What a surprise! I felt like I was eating foie gras;
I discovered the basic idea for this dish, during it was incredibly refined, with a seductive
a family dinner at Hokkai-en, the famous texture.
Chinese restaurant in Roppongi. It happens to be It was all bathed in a decidedly sweet sauce, with
the favorite restaurant of my wife Rika’s uncle, just the right amount of vinegar and starch. But
Hiroshi. the most seductive to my pastry chef taste buds
The maître d’ of the establishment stands out as were the sweet flavors of the smoke and anise.
much for his friendliness as for his competence: I had a revelation: the idea materialized.
I tried to remember all of his suggestions, Not the Paris-Brest version, but rather Venice-
without being sure I was properly understanding Beijing!
everything he said except for “oichi yo!” In the different promotions that I have had
When he presented me with the dish and I stared the opportunity to do in many distinguished
at the opulent ribs at the base of the plate, they restaurants and hotels, this risotto, effectively
looked a little greasy. Almost translucent, reinterpreted, has often taken the gold.
they had a lustrous sauce that I admit released
 FIRST WE PREPARE CONTINUE WITH THE MILK BITTER CHOCOLATE CURLS
THE ANISE-SMOKED RACK CHOCOLATE AND ANISE WITH ROASTED PARMESAN
OF PORK RISOTTO

7oz finely chopped shallots • 4 tbsp vegetable oil • 7 star anise

• 2 1/8 cups moelleux (semi-sweet) white wine • 1 1/4qt veal
fond blanc • 21oz Japonica rice • 2 3/4oz grated Parmigiano
28oz lean smoked pork ribs • 1 large peeled onion • Reggiano • 7oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • 1 3/4oz Xocopili 10 1/2oz Xocopili chocolate 72% • 3 1/2oz Parmigiano
6 star anise • 1 clove chocolate 72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper Reggiano •1/3 tsp fleur de sel • 1 tsp finely ground black pepper
114

Prick the onion with the star anise and clove. Melt the chocolate and lightly roast the Parmesan.
Put the rack of pork and studded onion in a pot Blend together all of the ingredients to begin
and generously cover with water. Simmer gently tempering (Consult the section on “tempering”
for approximately two and a half hours. Cool slightly in the Chocolate Techno chapter, page 48).
and cover the surface of the stock with medical gauze. When tempering is finished, pour the mixture into
Refrigerate for a few hours. Remove the gauze, which a rectangular plastic container to facilitate curling.
will have trapped the fat, and discard. Cut the rack Just before serving, scrape the surface of the tablet
into ribs 5/8 inch thick and sauté just before serving with the back of a spoon or using a pasta cutter,
to give them a crispy texture. pressing lightly to create curls rather than shavings
of the chocolate Parmesan.
1 The chocolate should not be too cold for this procedure.

Sauté the shallots in the hot oil. When they are well
browned, deglaze with the white wine. Add the anise
stars wrapped in a gauze bag, and the veal fond blanc.
Boil softly for about 15 minutes. Upon order, put
the rice in a pot and lightly wet with water while
stirring constantly with a wooden spatula.
Continue with the classic process for preparing
a risotto: gradually add liquid while stirring constantly
to give the rice a perfect luster and texture, so that
it is uniformly cooked.
Before serving, add the chopped chocolate and grated
Parmesan. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Stir well
and serve on hot plates.

1. WET THE RICE SEVERAL TIMES WHILE STIRRING

CONSTANTLY OVER LOW HEAT. AFTER APPROXIMATELY
15 MINUTES, THE RICE WILL BE “AL DENTE” AND ITS
LUSTER WILL BE AS APPEALING AS IT IS APPETIZING.

2. AT SERVING TIME, ADD THE CHOPPED OR MELTED

CHOCOLATE (IT DOESN’T MATTER WHICH) THE FINELY
GRATED PARMESAN, AND ADJUST THE SEASONING.
CONTINUE TO STIR DELICATELY TO OBTAIN A SILKY
CHOCOLATE MIXTURE.
PARMESAN TUILES

5 1/3oz Parmigiano Reggiano • Freshly ground pepper

115

Sprinkle the grated Parmesan uniformly onto a sheet

of sulphurized paper. Lightly pepper and bake in a hot
oven, 210-220ºC/410-428ºF, until golden.
Set aside in a dry place until serving.

TO SERVE
The risotto is ready, and cooked “al dente”; avoid the sticky consistency that arises from overcooking. Cut about half
of the rack into small pieces and mix them into the rice. Leave the rest in whole, thin slices. Spoon the rice onto
hot plates, top with the browned meat, and finish with a few Parmesan tuiles and the savory chocolate curls.
For contrast and a poignant visual effect, the client might appreciate the maître d’ grating the chocolate Parmesan
block directly at the table.
Bon voyage!

3. FINISH BY ADDING THE CURLS OF SAVORY CHOCOLATE AND ROASTED PARMESAN.

116

TRIP PLANNED FOR 8-10 PEOPLE DUCK PASTILLE

WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME,
GINGER AND SOY SAUCE
Here we are with the duck family once again. The duck is not actually lacquered, but it almost
In the end they will all have their crack at seems that way.
the pot, if you will permit me the expression, It is an unprecedented blend of bitter ganache
each with its own meat and unique flavor. This and braised duck, accented by the freshness of
duck pastille has also evidently been hanging the ginger. Textures marked by the wok-fried
around Asia… apparently the distance between bean sprouts, the golden, crispy feuille de brick,
Morocco and Hong Kong is not as far as we and the sesame whose job it is to unite these two
thought! cuisines. A journey to the souk… in Hong Kong!
117
 DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATE THE PASTILLES
AND SESAME

4 duck legs • 5/6 cup rice wine or white wine • 3 chopped

shallots • 3 tbsp of sesame oil • 1 3/4oz golden toasted sesame
seeds • 2/3 cup heavy cream • 5 1/3oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% •
Soy sauce • Freshly ground pepper 1 package feuilles de brick • Butter
118

Make cuts in the form of a grid on the skin of the duck

legs. Grill in a hot, dry pan. Remove the fat little
by little as it cooks. When they are well roasted,
remove the legs and fry the shallots with the sesame
oil until well browned. Deglaze with rice wine, or dry
white wine in its absence. Return the legs to the pan
and simmer, turning them occasionally. Add a small
amount of water if necessary. The meat should be
cooked until it can just be pulled off the bone. Let
it cool and carefully remove the skin and bones. Shred
the meat with your fingertips. Add the lightly ground, 1 4
toasted sesame seeds. The resulting amount should
weigh about 1 3/4 pounds. Prepare a ganache from
the boiled cream and pour gradually over the chopped
chocolate. Blend the meat and the ganache together,
and adjust the seasoning if necessary with the soy
sauce and pepper. Set aside.

2 5

Spread and cut the feuilles de brick into strips,

2 1/3-2 3/4 inches wide. Moisten with a spray bottle
to ease the work. Spoon a bit of the filling and wrap
into triangles. See the method shown in photos
1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. With the help of a brush or spray
bottle, coat the triangles with very hot butter
and refrigerate, or freeze for an easy mise en place.
Bake at moderate heat before serving.

1. FILL THE FEUILLES DE BRICK WITH THE DUCK

MIXTURE, AND FOLD FROM AN ANGLE TO CREATE
TRIANGLES.

2. FOLD THE TRIANGLE OVER ITSELF TO BEGIN TO

CLOSE THE EDGES.
4. COAT WITH VERY HOT BUTTER.
3. FINALLY, FOLD THE LAST TRIANGLE MAKING SURE
THE POINT ENTERS BETWEEN THE TWO SHEETS OF 5. BAKE JUST BEFORE SERVING AT MODERATE HEAT,
THE FEUILLE DE BRICK. 200-210ºC/392-410ºF.
GINGER SOY SAUCE SOYBEAN SPROUTS

2/5 cup soy sauce • 4 3/4 tbsp water • 1 2/5oz fresh grated 8 3/4oz soybean sprouts • 1 1/3 tbsp soy sauce •
ginger • 1/3oz toasted sesame seeds • 2 3/4 tbsp sesame oil 2 tbsp sesame oil
119

Blend all the ingredients together. Refrigerate until In a wok or a very hot steel pan, pour in the oil,
serving time. then immediately add the bean sprouts. Stir constantly
and, after one minute, not more, add the soy sauce
to stop the cooking immediately. Remove from
the pan.

TO SERVE
Assemble the pastilles in groups of three, on bamboo or wooden skewers.
Place in the oven, preheated to 200-210ºC/392-410ºF, for 6 to 7 minutes. During
this time, garnish the plates with the warm soy bean sprouts.
Dress lightly with the ginger soy sauce.
Remove from the oven and place the golden pastilles on top of the soy bean sprouts.
120
 121

RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL

AND CHOCOLATE,

A RECIPE TO SURPRISE 8-10 DINNER GUESTS,

EVEN THOSE WITH TRADITIONAL TASTES
VEGETABLE STOCK
WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE,
IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE
This is a dish that incites countless questions a shredded texture that is very pleasant in the
on behalf of the consumer, standing baffled mouth. “At home we just throw it in pot-au-feu,”
at the butcher’s counter. he said. Well, not at mine! It is everything we
What is it? What a strange shape, what kind needed for this dish, a crossroads between
of meat is that? It looks a bit fatty, how do you China, the traboules of Lyon, and Richerences.
cook it? You think it’s the neck of an animal? The Drôme truffle combined with the chocolate
No, the bones are solid… You hear it all, and it is and this rich, flavorful meat, converts this
generally quite amusing. Sébastien however, delicacy… wait…
having experience with the product, had I lack the words to describe it, you’ll have
the desire to prepare it. We discovered the meat to discover for yourself!
is juicy, “damp”, yes, but without any fat, and
 THE MEAT THE VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE

3 1/2lbs oxtail • 2L water • 3 bay leaves • Salt and black 1 1/5qt cooking stock • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped carrots • 1 3/4oz chopped celery • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 leek (green
peppercorns part) finely chopped • 1 Richerenches truffle • 2 tomatoes, not too ripe • 2 egg whites • Salt and freshly ground pepper
122

Put everything together in a pot and simmer for about In a pot, combine the stock, carrots, turnips, celery in a bowl and carefully pour over the surface of the
two and a half hours. Remove excess fat by spooning and a few thin slices of truffle. Simmer for stock by submerging the bowl in the stock. Place over
off the foam regularly. approximately 1 hour, uncovered. Adjust the heat and bring to a light boil. Let the mixture cool
After 2 hours, occasionally check the meat, which seasoning. Cool slightly before clarifying. again. The decantation will happen by itself. Strain
should begin to separate easily from the bones. It may To clarify: blend the egg whites, tomatoes, and leek carefully and refrigerate the stock.
still need to be cooked longer. When they are very roughly in the food processor. Put the mixture
tender, remove the pieces of meat and drain. Remove
the excess fat one last time from the stock and set it
aside for later. Break the meat up while still warm, and
shred with your fingertips. Set aside.

TO SERVE
Heat the vegetable stock without letting it boil. Cook the ravioli for 2 to 3 minutes in gently boiling water.
Place 3 raviolis en each preheated bowl.
Cover with stock and grate one or two slices of truffle before serving.
Consume very hot, and enjoy this fine moment!
AND THE RAVIOLI

28oz shredded oxtail meat • 1/3 cup whole milk • 1/3 cup oxtail stock • 2 2/3oz Araguani couverture 72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 2 packages yellow Chinese noodle paste
123

1 2

Melt the chocolate. Boil the milk and stock together. Place the noodle squares on the table. Moisten
Prepare an emulsion (ganache) with the chocolate. the edges with a wet brush and cover the center with
Set aside. the chocolate filling.
Stir the shredded oxtail meat into the ganache, Fold the paste in half and press the edges with your
taking care to preserve the shredded texture of the fingertips. Prepare around thirty ravioli in this way.
meat. Adjust the seasoning if necessary. Set aside. Refrigerate before cooking.

3. PLACE A TEASPOON OF OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE

FILLING ON A NOODLE SQUARE. LIGHTLY MOISTEN
1. MIX THE GANACHE WITH THE SHREDDED OXTAIL 2. ADJUST THE SEASONING AND LET THE MIXTURE THE EDGES OF EACH NOODLE SQUARE AND PRESS
MEAT. COOL BEFORE MAKING THE RAVIOLI. TOGETHER WHEN FOLDING.
124
 125

MUSSELS WITH CURRY

AND COCONUT MILK,

TO SERVE 8-10 DINNER GUESTS

THIS RECIPE IS CALCULATED
SPICED CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ,
SPRING RAIN CRISP
When I was in the process of my first attempts spices, which also come from that country.
at cuisine, excited about preparing Norway The soybean angel hair “popcorn” gives the dish
lobster with chocolate, I noticed that iodized a crunchy touch. Usually boiled, we had the idea
notes produced surprising, extravagant to fry the soybean vermicelli: another discovery,
combinations, yet always remained well because it works, and what’s more, they’re
balanced. The iodized flavor of mussels is refined delicious!
and delicate. Enlivened by the fumet with It is a delectable dish that carries us to far
Malaysian accents, it goes marvelously with off places without losing our way.
the flavor of the cacao bean and the Xocopili
 BEGIN WITH THE VEGETABLE MEANWHILE, SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ
STOCK WITH CURRY PREPARE THE MUSSELS
AND COCONUT MILK

2 cups water • 2 2/3oz carrots, roughly diced • 7/8oz chopped

onion • 7/8oz red peppers,roughly diced • 3 1/2oz sliced 1 1/2 cups mussel fumet • 2 1/10 cups curry sauce •
tomatoes • 1/3oz mild Bombay curry • 1/2 tsp salt • 2 lemon 5 1/2lbs large mussels • 2/3 cup semi-sweet white wine • 5 1/3oz Xocopili chocolate 72% •
leaves, washed • 7/8 cup canned coconut milk 2/3 cup water 1oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% • Salt and red Tabasco
126

In a pot, combine the water and all of the ingredients. Reduce the fumet and stock for 10 minutes.
Simmer for 30-40 minutes, covered. Strain through Melt the two chocolates together and add a ladleful
a chinois to recover the perfumed stock. of fumet. Begin the emulsion and finish by gradually
adding the rest of the stock. The sauce should be
velvety and creamy. Keep in a bain-marie. To increase
the creaminess of the sauce simply boil gently.
The result is immediate! Adjust the seasoning,
if necessary, with salt and Tabasco.

Rinse and clean the mussels of their “hair”, as I would

say to my mother. In a large pot, combine the wine
and water and add the mussels. Cover and cook over
high heat. After boiling for 4 to 5 minutes, the mussels
will open. Stop the cooking. Once cooled, remove
the mussels from their shells and refrigerate.
Strain the fumet through an etamine chinois
to eliminate any sand. Set aside.

1. PLACE THE MUSSELS IN A SHORT PAN SO THAT THEY

OPEN FROM THE STEAM OF THE STOCK. TAKE CARE
NOT TO COOK THEM SO THEY REMAIN TENDER AND
JUICY.
SPRING RAIN CRISP

1 bag of haru same, also called soybean vermicelli • Clean oil

bath for frying • Bombay curry
127

4 6

TO SERVE
Heat the mussels, preferably with steam, to maintain
the quality of the meat, tender and supple.
Using a ring, place the mussels in a deep, hot dish,
arranging them elegantly as if they were apples on
a nice tart.
Cover generously with the spicy chocolate velouté,
remove the ring and crown with the spring rain crisp.

Preheat the oil to 180ºC/356ºF. Add the noodles

in small quantities after separating them with scissors.
Fry them until they just start to brown. Serve as soon
as possible.

2. PACKAGE OF HARU SAME, ALSO CALLED SOY

VERMICELLI.

3. PREHEAT THE OIL TO 180ºC/356ºF.

4. ADD THE VERMICELLI IN SMALL QUANTITIES AFTER
SEPARATING THEM WITH SCISSORS. FRY UNTIL THEY
BEGIN TO BROWN.

5. PLACE ON ABSORBENT PAPER AND SPRINKLE WITH 6. ASSEMBLE THE MUSSELS WITH A STAINLESS STEEL
CURRY. RING.
128

ROASTED ESCARGOTS
WITH PINE NEEDLES,
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
EVIDENCE FOR A JURY OF 8-10 GUESTS

WITH RAW AND ROASTED

PORCINI MUSHROOMS, CRISPY
CHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVES
They are also subject to chocolate. It seemed I adore. And so, like great chefs on a quest for
impossible, but Sebastian and I absolutely adore exotic herbs, we set off in search of pine needles,
escargots and, after a few attempts, began to see the younger the better as these have a more
that we were on the right track. The needles from intense flavor. Struck by the memory of Régis
the splendid pine that dominates my yard served Marcon, Sébastien thought of the fresh little
as inspiration for this dish. In Japan, these mushrooms that we had haphazardly bought
needles are used as skewers to snack on gingko in the market. Everything started to come
nuts, fruit of the most emblematic tree of Japan, together, in the exchange of a few words, in true
or scallops and other enjoyable tidbits. When chef’s style, and the experiments began.
cooked, these needles transmit their resinous, The result is how we imagined it: you be the
camphorated, turpentine flavor, something that judge.
129
 FOR THE PORCINI CHOCOLATE AND THE SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES
SAUCE

3/5 cup whole milk • 3/5 cup heavy cream • 8 3/4oz Caraïbe
chocolate 66% • 1 1/4oz dried, ground porcinis • Salt and
freshly ground pepper 3 1/2oz sugar • 3 1/2oz glucose • 3/10 cup water • 1 3/5oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Fleur de sel
130

1 3 5

Boil the milk and cream together and add the ground
porcinis. Cover and leave for a few minutes. Prepare
an emulsion with the chopped couverture and
the very hot liquid. Adjust the seasoning, blend for
a few moments and refrigerate for the mise en place,
or place in a bain-marie for service.
4

Cook the sugar, glucose and water at 158ºC/316ºF.

Remove from heat and add the finely chopped
or melted chocolate. Smooth it out with a spatula.
Spread it as thinly as possible between two Silpat
sheets. Leave to cool and reserve the preparation
in a dry place with a dessicant. Before serving, sprinkle
with fleur de sel and reheat in the oven or under
a salamander for a few minutes to give it a beautiful,
lustrous chocolate color. Set aside.
6

5. USING A ROLLING PIN SPREAD THE MIXTURE

AS THINLY AS POSSIBLE BETWEEN TWO SILPAT
1. FOR THE PORCINI SAUCE, FINELY GRIND THE DRIED SHEETS. RESERVE LIKE THIS IN A DRY PLACE.
PORCINIS AND BLEND WITH THE HEAVY CREAM.
FOLLOW BY PREPARING A CLASSIC EMULSION 6. BEFORE SERVING, PLACE ON A BAKING SHEET,
BY GRADUALLY POURING THE VERY HOT LIQUID OVER 3. COOK THE SUGAR DRY UNTIL GOLDEN. LIGHTLY SPRINKLE WITH FLEUR DE SEL AND HEAT
THE CHOCOLATE. IN A HOT OVEN OR UNDER THE SALAMANDER FOR
4. ADD THE MELTED HOT CHOCOLATE AND STIR A FEW SECONDS SO THAT THE CARAMEL SPREADS OUT
2. PORCINI GANACHE. BRIEFLY. A LITTLE.LET COOL AND KEEP IN A DRY PLACE.
FOR THE SAUTÉED PORCINIS AND GRAZAC ESCARGOTS
WITH PINE NEEDLES

15 small porcinis • 30 large escargots, canned • Clarified butter • 50 pine needles • Salt and freshly ground pepper
131

TO SERVE
On a preferably long, hot plate, elegantly arrange
the small porcinis and sautéed escargots. Top each
escargot with a touch of the porcini chocolate sauce.
Finish by adding a few shards of chocolate caramel.
You will notice the pleasant aroma, and the odor
of the pinesap with its camphoric notes combined
with the chocolate is truly something.

Wash and rinse the escargots. Skewer each escargot

with a pine needle. Wash and carefully brush the small
porcinis. Cut them in half and sauté them over high
heat. When they begin to brown, add the pine-
skewered escargots. Brown together for approximately
5 minutes and adjust the seasoning.

7. SAUTÉ THE PORCINIS IN BUTTER. WHEN THEY START

TO BROWN ADD THE PINE NEEDLE SKEWERED
ESCARGOTS. COOK EVERYTHING FOR 5 MINUTES
AND ADJUST THE SEASONING.
132
 133

CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH

NANTUA SAUCE,
BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES,
LIGHTLY SAUTÉED

FOR 8-10 CRAYFISH ENTHUSIASTS OR ADMIRERS

CRAYFISH TAILS
Crayfish are a part of my childhood. the 1st century in Apicius’ “De re coquinaria”,
My dad and I would go fishing for pike the pike quenelle with Nantua sauce was highly
at a lake near Metz. Sometimes, understanding regarded by King Louis XV during extravagant
the animal’s instinct, dad would tell me to stay dinners in the royal châteaux.
up on the shore while he attempted to seduce It seems it is the destiny of the crayfish to remain
the pike with his little sun perch. This little wild, as these animals cannot be farmed.
fellow was, it seemed, the preferred prey The Astacus leptodactilus originates from
of Mr. Pike. And there I was, alone on the shore the Vendée, Camargue or Touraine regions,
with nothing to do but stay quiet, so I occupied whereas Astacus pacifastacus is found in the north
myself with the crayfish even though I had and the east of France.
nothing to catch them with! Unscrupulous sellers began calling it “red clawed
There are many of us who were raised on Nantua crayfish”, when in fact the true “red clawed”
sauce, it being the sauce that often accompanied Astacus astacus became non-existent. In New
our mothers’ quenelles. During a nostalgic Caledonia or Louisiana these creatures receive
moment, I had a sudden inspiration and, using colorful names like Waoussous or Zabittants.
an idea of Sébastien’s, I concocted this version… With the close of this short history, let us return
sorry for changing the recipe mom! to this recipe which had great success at the Lyon
Having now done my research on this little show in 2005, and I would like to thank Cèlia
critter that I once took for a bonsai lobster and Francisco for their patience in allowing
that never made it to the sea, I will share with me time to finish this “extra” recipe for inclusion
you the fruit of my labor. First cited in in Chocolate Fusion.
 FOR THE CRAYFISH FUMET FOR THE FOAMY NANTUA THE PIKE QUENELLES
SAUCE

40 to 45 live crayfish • 3 carrots, roughly diced •

1 large leek, roughly diced • 3 tomatoes • 3 garlic cloves • 1 cup whipping cream 35% • 3 1/2oz Jivara milk chocolate 40% 8 3/4oz pike meat • 2 5/6oz fresh egg whites • 1/2 cup whipping
1 large chopped onion • 750ml (1 bottle) white wine • • 2 cups crayfish fumet • 1/5 cup cognac • Espelette pepper • cream 35% • 1 3/4oz pasteurized butter • 2 1/10oz type 55
1/2 handful of flat parsley Salt flour • 2 fresh egg yolks • Salt and freshly ground pepper
134

Boil the cream and melt the milk chocolate. Pour half To make the panade, boil the cream and butter.
the cream over the chocolate and whisk to begin the Add the sifted flour and dry over heat for 2 to
emulsion. Add the rest of the cream and, gradually, 3 minutes while stirring (like a pâte à choux).
pour in the crayfish fumet. Lastly, add the cognac and Let slightly cool and add the yolks, one by one, away
adjust the seasoning. Bring to a very light boil to give from heat. Let cool completely. Meanwhile, shred
the sauce a velvety, silky appearance. the pike meat and add the egg whites. Next, add both
Keep in a bain-marie so it is hot at serving time. the cold panade and the cream. Adjust the seasoning
and refrigerate. Shape the quenelles between two
spoons and poach them in lightly boiling, salted water
for around 10 minutes. Refrigerate or use immediately.
1

First, we must take care to de-vein the crayfish.

It is an unattractive detail, but nonetheless a duty
of “culinary hygiene” which we cannot avoid,
and furthermore one which cannot and should not
be done except with live animals. Afterwards, throw
the critters in a base of gently boiling water at
the bottom of a pot. As soon as the shells turn red
remove the crayfish with a skimmer and let cool.
Carefully remove the barely cooked tails from the shell
and refrigerate until serving time. Cut the heads
in two, lengthwise. Place all the shells, claws and half-
heads in a large pot. Add the carrots, leeks, tomatoes,
garlic cloves, onion and flat parsley. Pour in the white
wine and cover with water. Cover and simmer
for 30 to 40 minutes. Before straining through
a chinois, stir for a few moments to break the shells
in order to obtain the maximum juice possible. Strain
through a chinois, then a cheesecloth. Let cool
and refrigerate until assembly.

1. CRAYFISH.
2. THE CRAYFISH FUMET SHOULD ONLY GENTLY BOIL.
BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES GREEN RISOTTO

3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 1 cup semi-sweet

white wine • 2 1/2 cups crayfish fumet • 10 1/2oz Japonica rice •
2 7/8oz Parmigiano Reggiano, grated • 1 bunch flat parsley •
10 to 12 pike quenelles • Oil bath or liquid butter for frying Salt and freshly ground pepper
135

Sauté the shallots in the hot oil until well browned,

then deglaze with the white wine and add the crayfish
fumet.
Boil gently for approximately 15 minutes. Wash
and spin-dry the parsley, then separate the leaves.
Finely grind to reduce to a puree. Using an etamine
chinois, squeeze out the juice. When the order comes
in, put the rice in a pot and add a bit of water while
stirring with a wooden spatula, then follow the classic
process for risotto: gradually add liquid while
3 continuously stirring to obtain a perfect texture 6
and luster, as well as a uniform doneness of the rice.
Just before serving, add the grated Parmesan. Adjust TO SERVE
the seasoning if necessary. Stir well one last time for At serving time, deep-fry the pieces of poached
a perfect luster. To preserve a pleasant green color, quenelle and sear the crayfish tails in butter
finish with 2 to 3 soupspoons of flat parsley juice. and olive oil. Season with salt and Espelette pepper.
Using a stainless steel ring, form the risotto into round On sufficiently concave, hot plates make three
medallions onto hot plates. medallions of risotto using the stainless steel rings
of your preferred size. Place one beignet of pike
quenelles on each plate and top with a crayfish tail
and a few flat parsley leaves. Blend the sauce for
4 a few moments to “velvetize” and generously adorn
the bottom of each plate. Serve hot. Do not hesitate
to be generous in adding more sauce, that’s how
it’s done!

Cut the quenelles into pieces of about 1 1/2 inches.

Poach for 4 to 5 minutes in gently boiling, salted water
and drain. This step can be done before serving,
for the mise en place. Just before serving, fry in oil
or liquid butter heated to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF until
golden brown and sufficiently crispy.

3. POACH THE QUENELLE PIECES.

4. DRAIN THEM ONCE REMOVED FROM THE WATER.
6. JUST BEFORE SERVING, SEAR THE CRAYFISH TAILS
5. LASTLY, DEEP-FRY THE QUENELLES. IN BUTTER AND OLIVE OIL.
138 LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE,
POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS

144 SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS, SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE,
ORANGE-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES

148 A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, TOASTED PINE NUTS,

PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

152 POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH LEMON AND VERBENA,
BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH

156 GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET,

LEMON AND LA MANCHA SAFFRON FRAGRANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE

160 STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE,
LAÏ CHU REDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN PEPPER

164 TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATE POLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE,
FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED CHOCOLATE FLAKES

168 SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAO AND PISTACHIOS,

NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS

172 PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC, COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME,
FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK

176 IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER,
CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS

WATER
WATER 137
138

THIS RECIPE IS CALCULATED TO SURPRISE 8-10 DINNER GUESTS WITH A THIRST FOR DISCOVERY LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY
LOBSTER TAILS,
SAUCE AMÉRICAINE THICKENED
WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE,
POLENTA FINGERS
WITH SAFFRON,
RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE
AND CRISPY LEEKS
Was it these Norway lobsters that awoke both?” I asked. It was something very unusual
in me the desire to explore and discover? Most in pâtisserie. “Don’t forget the pistils of saffron,
certainly. I adore the sauce américaine, its richness of course. I’ll give you the details for the
and the intoxicating smells that it exudes. I had reduction and skimming, etc.” Then I can
never tried to make it up until then, and I had an remember him confiding in me one of
incredible urge to dive into the adventure. the secrets, almost whispering as he leaned
I consulted a few cookbooks, the Larousse in to tell me, “the thickening takes place during
gastronomique, Auguste Escoffier, to get an the final moments, with the coral from the fresh
understanding of the basic principles. lobsters that has been previously removed.”
Coincidentally, I had the good fortune to dine at Mission accomplished… I had the overwhelming
the restaurant Pic, in Valence. It was dream come feeling I was guarding a “secret” in my mind.
true for me. At that time Jacques and Alain Pic I left the family restaurant happy and confident
were still at the helm of the three star Michelin in my idea. In this recipe, we reencounter notes
establishment. I followed the precious advice of licorice, born of the union of the iodine,
of Jacques Pic that I had so furtively sought after saffron and chocolate. The silky texture of the
in his ritual visit to the dining room. “I roasted red pepper confit softens and underlines this
the shells well in the oven and flambéed them flavor that I dare to qualify as exceptionally good
with cognac and whisky”, he explained. “With and harmonious.
139
 SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH
GRAND CRU CHOCOLATE
AND CORAL

30 Norway lobsters (15/20) • 2/5 cup cognac • 2/5 cup whisky • 1 head of garlic, halved horizontally • 1 chopped onion •
3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 14oz fresh tomato pulp • 3 tbsp tomato paste • 7oz roughly diced carrots • 2 leeks (green part only) • 2 1/8 cups sauce américaine, reduced • Norway lobster coral •
20 pistils of La Mancha saffron • 1 1/4 cup dry white wine • Salt and whole peppercorns • Virgin olive oil 5 1/3 to 6 1/3oz Manjari chocolate 64% - Salt and pepper
140

1 2 3

Remove the head and legs of the Norway lobsters. Let cool and grind in a food processor or with a mortar
Remove 20 tails from their shells 10 of the nicest tails and pestle. In a large pot, sauté the shallots, onions
whole with the shells on. Using a small coffee spoon, and garlic. Add the Norway lobster shells. Mix in the
extract the coral from the heads and refrigerate in a tomato pulp, tomato paste, carrots, leeks and finally
sealed container or, even better, in the freezer. the saffron and white wine, and a few black
On an oiled baking sheet, place the heads, legs and peppercorns. Cover with water and cook gently.
shells and bake at high heat in the oven, 220- The cooking should take 3 to 4 hours. Take care
230ºC/428-446ºF, for no more than 8-10 minutes. to skim if necessary and to keep it to a simmer. Strain
Stir from time to time to ensure it is all roasted in a through a chinois and reduce the sauce to about a half.
light and uniform way. Remove them from the oven, Test frequently during reduction to avoid a bitter,
pour the cognac and whisky over them and flambé. unpleasant sauce. Cool immediately and refrigerate.

3. STRAIN THE REDUCED SAUCE THROUGH A CHINOIS,

ADD THE CORAL AND STIR FOR A FEW MOMENTS.
BRING TO A GENTLE BOIL.
1. NARCISSISTIC NORWAY LOBSTER ADMIRING HIS 2. PREPARE THE SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH THE
REFLECTION IN A KNIFE BEFORE PLUNGING INTO THE NORWAY LOBSTER SHELLS, REMOVE THE CORAL FIRST 4. STRAIN AGAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS WHILE STIRRING
POT. AND REFRIGERATE. THE SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OVER THE CHOCOLATE.
 RED PEPPER TAPENADE
WITH PAPRIKA

4 1/3lbs red peppers • 6/7 cup virgin olive oil •

1/2oz sweet paprika • Sugar • Salt and freshly ground pepper
141

Wash and roast the peppers whole in a very hot oven

(230-240ºC/446-464ºF) with the skin. It is the system
used for escalivada in Spain. When the skin begins
turn dark brown, stop the roasting. After removing
them from the oven, wrap each pepper separately
in plastic wrap and let cool. Thanks to the wrap
the peppers can be peeled and seeded more easily.
Cut them in strips and throw them in a pan with hot
5 oil. Add a dash of sugar and let them brown gently
so that the peppers “confit” and lose their water. Drain
Combine the sauce américaine and the coral and blend. and place in the food processor. Add the paprika, salt
Heat it until it just begins to boil and remove and pepper. Finely blend and strain through a sieve
it immediately from heat. to obtain a very fine texture. Adjust the seasoning
Lightly melt the chocolate in a saucepan. Add just and refrigerate, or keep in a bain-marie for
a little sauce américaine and begin then emulsion by consumption within two hours.
stirring efficiently. Gradually add the rest of the sauce,
straining it through a chinois over the chocolate.
The texture should end up being velvety, supple
and lustrous.
Adjust the seasoning and run through the mixer
for a few seconds to perfect the silky texture
of the sauce. If necessary, gently reheat the sauce,
without boiling, to thicken.

7. CHAR THE RED PEPPERS IN A VERY HOT OVEN.

AFTER REMOVING THEM FROM THE OVEN, WRAP
SEPARATELY IN PLASTIC WRAP AND LET COOL.
FINALLY, REMOVE THE SKINS AND SEEDS AND SAUTÉ
IN OLIVE OIL WITH A DASH OF SUGAR. ONCE THE JUICE
5. CONTINUE TO STIR AND PRESS WITH THE HELP 6. CORRECTLY EMULSIFY THE SAUCE AND BLEND HAS PRACTICALLY DISAPPEARED AND THE PEPPERS
OF A WHISK. THE SAUCE SHOULD BE PERFECTLY AGAIN FOR A FEW SECONDS FOR A PREFECT SILKY LOOK CONFITS, REMOVE FROM HEAT, BLEND FINELY
EMULSIFIED. TEXTURE. AND SEASON.
 POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE

5 1/3oz precooked polenta • 6/7 cup whole milk • 1 cup water • 10-12 pistils of La Mancha saffron • Salt and freshly ground pepper 3 leeks (white part only) • Clean oil bath • Freshly ground salt
142

Wash the leeks and cut the white part into pieces
2 to 2 3/8 inches long.
Cut in half lengthwise.
Prepare a fine julienne.
Fry in the oil bath at a maximum of 170ºC/338ºF
and, when golden, drain on absorbent paper. Lightly
8 salt and keep in a dry place.

Boil the milk and water, add the saffron and steep,
covered, for 4 to 5 minutes.
Mix the polenta with a whisk, then cook over low heat
while stirring with a spatula. Add salt and pepper
and pour into a tray 5/8 inch deep. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for one hour before cutting.
Once the fingers are cut, delicately sauté them in olive
oil on two sides only and keep warm until serving
time.

8. PREPARE THE POLENTA WITH SAFFRON FROM

LA MANCHA. SPREAD OUT TO A THICKNESS OF
APPROXIMATELY 5/8 INCH AND LET IT SET. CUT THE
FINGERS TO 5/8 INCH THICK AND AROUND 4 INCHES 9. FRY THE LEEK JULIENNE IN AN OIL BATH THAT IS
LONG. LIGHTLY BROWN IN OIL BEFORE SERVING. NOT TOO HOT (160-170ºC/320-338ºF).
TO REMOVE THE TAIL SHELLS AS I LEARNED IN ICELAND…

143

TO SERVE
Make sure that the polenta fingers, the red pepper
tapenade and the sauce américaine are all hot.
If you choose to cook the Norway lobsters over a
pierrade (grilling over hot stones), place the hot stones,
of a size of your choice, over a hot flame. On one hand,
lightly sauté the 20 Norway lobsters without the shells,
taking care not to overcook them, and on the other hand,
sear the 10 tails still in their shell; these will be finished
10 11 over the stones. Season and set aside.
Next, set a red hot stone on each plate and top with
It is not mandatory to remove the heads, the effect Then, with your fingertips, open the tail, carefully a de-shelled (Icelandic method) Norway lobster.
is more appetizing, but for this dish we will need them remove the meat and return it to the shell. In this way, Dress with a generous ribbon of the pepper tapenade
for the sauce so it is in fact necessary. Remove 10 tails even barely dressed with oil and seasoning the meat and arrange the polenta fingers. In a harmonious way,
in the following way: hold the tail face up with one will take on all the aromas of the roasted shell. place two Norway lobster tails, generously cover
hand, and with the other, cut the shell with scissors It is delicious. I discovered this method in Iceland with the chocolate sauce américaine and crown
from the head to the end of the tail, but keeping where they use it for their small lobsters. The flavor with a few crispy leeks. Just writing this makes
the tail fan intact. It is important to remain as close of their preparation was remarkable, and so I pass my mouth water. Now it’s your turn!
to the shell as possible to avoid cutting the meat. on the idea to you.

10. REMOVE THE INTESTINE OF EACH TAIL

WITH A TOOTHPICK AND CUT THE TOP OF THE SHELL
USING SCISSORS. OPEN WITH YOUR FINGERTIPS
AND REMOVE THE MEAT FROM THE SHELL. SET ASIDE
THE MEAT, STILL ATTACHED TO THE TAIL FIN, PLACING 11. SEASON, DRESS WITH A BIT OF OIL AND
IT IN THE SHELL THAT SHOULD CLOSE BY ITSELF AFTER REFRIGERATE, TO BE COOKED JUST BEFORE SERVING
REMOVAL. TIME, OF COURSE!
144
 145

SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS

SKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS,

FOR 8-10 DEVOTEES OF DELECTABLE DELIGHTS

SWEET AND SOUR MANGO
JULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMED
CHOCOLATE SAUCE
AND CACAO NIB TUILES
We should not confuse these small mollusks Grand Chocolat. Perhaps it was a sign, an omen
with baby sea scallops, which is often the case. of what was to come, because a few months
Their characteristic flavor and more fleshy meat later, with Montagud, I decided to prepare
make these bay scallops an attractive ingredient this book.
to work with in the kitchen. Their small size This very fruity and sweet and sour version,
along with the fact they are usually presented with aromas of toasted nuts combined with
in a “collective” manner, gives one a sensation the Manjari chocolate, which plays a central
of generosity not unlike opening up a bag role here, supported by the lemongrass
of bonbons. and fresh mango, makes this dish a pure
This is actually the first savory recipe to be delight.
published by Valrhona through the École du
 FOR THE CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE BAY SCALLOPS
WITH LEMONGRASS

3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 cup fresh orange juice • 7oz veal fond blanc • 3 1/2oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 13/4oz praline, 50%
nuts • 1 3/4oz sugar • 1oz butter • Salt 23oz fresh bay scallops • 4 lemongrass stalks • Clarified butter
146

Caramelize the sugar dry (180-185ºC/356-365ºF)

and deglaze with the shallots and butter.
Sauté everything together for a few moments,
add the orange juice and the fond blanc, and reduce
by a third.
In a mixing bowl, or a Blixer food processor, combine
the praline and chocolate.
Gradually add the reduction to correctly prepare
an emulsion.
Adjust the seasoning and keep warm before serving.
1 3

Wash and dry the meat of the bay scallops.

Prepare the small lemongrass skewers.
Place 3 or 4 bay scallops onto each skewer;
make around thirty in total. Refrigerate until serving,
when they will be sautéed in butter over high heat.

1. MAKE AN EMULSION WITH THE CARAMEL

AND ORANGE REDUCTION BY POURING IT OVER THE
CHOCOLATE AND PRALINE.

2. ADD THE LIQUID GRADUALLY TO ACHIEVE AND

PRESERVE A UNIFORM TEXTURE THAT IS SMOOTH 3. BAY SCALLOP BROCHETTES WITH LEMONGRASS,
AND SUPPLE. BROWNED IN A SAUCEPAN.
SWEET AND SOUR MANGO SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES
JULIENNE

2lbs fresh mangos • 4/5 cup polyfloral honey • 1 3/4oz lemongrass

stalks • 1oz fresh ginger • 2 tbsp sweet vinegar • Fine salt and 3 1/2oz butter • 3 1/2oz glucose • 2/5 cup mineral water • 1/3oz pectin NH • 1oz powdered hazelnuts • 2/3 tsp fine salt •
cubeb pepper 1 2/3 tsp cubeb pepper •7oz cacao nibs
147

4 6 7

In a pot, heat the butter, glucose and water.

While stirring, add the pectin NH, salt, ground cubeb
pepper and powdered hazelnuts. Bring to a boil.
With a pastry bag, mark out squares the size
of the brochettes and sprinkle with finely ground
cacao nibs.
Cook at 180ºC/356ºF in a ventilated oven
for approximately 15 minutes until golden brown.
Keep in a dry place.

5 8

Wash and peel the fruit.

Julienne the mangos and ginger.
Lightly brown the honey and add the mango and
ginger julienne, the vinegar and the lemongrass stalks.
Simmer over low heat and reduce until syrupy. Adjust
the seasoning, remove the lemongrass and refrigerate.

TO SERVE
Sauté the satay of bay scallops in butter. Place a bed of warm mango
at the base of a plate and align the satay on top. Generously cover with
sauce and place a square of of cacao nibs nougatine. Without moving
from the chair we have the impression of traveling far, very far…

4. COOK THE HONEY UNTIL IT LIGHTLY BROWNS. 7. SPRINKLE WITH CACAO NIBS.
5. ADD THE MANGO JULIENNE, THE LEMONGRASS 6. USING A PASTRY BAG, OUTLINE SQUARES 8. REMOVE THE EXCESS NIBS BY TURNING OVER
AND THE VINEGAR. SIMMER AND REDUCE. 3 TO 3 1/2 IN A SIDE. THE SILICON SHEET.
148

A BIT LIKE A MOLE…

OF RED GURNARD,
TOASTED PINE NUTS,
PASSION FRUIT AND
FOR 8-10 TRAVELERS

TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

This is the so-called cuckoo of the seas. Like its Taken with this distant but intact memory,
acolyte, the red mullet, it arouses great culinary I decided to “moletize” my gurnards! I am very
interest. Its slightly fleshier meat requires satisfied with this dish because, though it is not
a longer cooking time. I scratched my head identical to the one I tasted in Paris ten years
and suddenly remembered the delicious mole ago, I know the elements are there.
I had eaten long ago during a meal prepared I would have liked to try it with grouper, but
by Potel and Chabot. It was made with numerous it is difficult to find in Tain l’Hermitage!
exquisite ingredients that I can’t recall I will now take you on a short tour
completely, but the one that remains of Mexico, one of the countries in which
on my palate is the grouper: fleshy and velvety chocolate has reigned in cuisine for a long
at the same time. It was almost lacquered time, providing often memorable chocolaty
in a mahogany chocolate sauce with spices… notes.
but which ones?
149
 THE FISH THE PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE

8 3/4oz brown sugar • 2 vanilla beans • 10 1/2oz fresh passion fruit pulp • 6/7 cup white wine • 1qt fish fumet • 2oz fresh ginger •
8 to 10 red gurnards • Coarse salt 4 fresh tamarind pods • 2 pico de pájaro chilies • 8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 4 2/5oz toasted Spanish pine nuts
150

1 2 4

Scale and clean the fish.

Remove the gills and wash with salted water.
Rinse and drain.

3 5

Cook the sugar dry at 185-190ºC/365-374ºF Add the toasted pine nuts.
o caramelize. In a large round baking pan with a cover, or even
Deglaze with the fish fumet. better, if you happen to have a tajine, place the already
Add the white wine and the opened, grated vanilla prepared red gurnards and cover with all
beans, the fresh tamarind pods, the grated ginger of the chocolate sauce. Cover and bake in the oven
and, lastly, the chilies. for approximately 45 minutes at 180ºC/356ºF.
Add the passion fruit pulp and slowly reduce Open the oven every 15 minutes to baste the gurnards
the mixture by approximately a third. and homogenize the sauce with a spoon.
Emulsify the chocolate by gradually adding the hot As soon as the filets begin to separate from the dorsal
liquid. The preparation should be liquid, but velvety. fin, they’re done!

2. COOK THE SUGAR DRY AT 185-190ºC/365-374ºF,

USING A THERMOMETER, UNTIL IT BECOMES BROWN
CARAMEL. 4. ADD THE WHITE WINE AND SPICES.
1. RED GURNARDS. 3. DEGLAZE WITH THE FISH FUMET. 5. THEN ADD THE PASSION FRUIT PULP.
 151

6 8

TO SERVE
Keep it simple: if using a tajine, it can be brought directly to the table and will
keep everything hot.
If not, simply serve on plates, hot ones of course, with a side of your choice;
personally, I like this dish with ears of corn, blanched, buttered, salted
and grilled, but… do whatever sounds best!

7. STRAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS AND EMULSIFY

WITH THE CHOCOLATE.

8. COVER THE FISH WITH SAUCE AND COOK

IN A BAKING PAN OR EARTHENWARE POT, UNTIL
6. LEAVE TO COOK AND REDUCE, MAKING SURE THAT THE TAMARINDS HAVE MELTED CORRECTLY. JUST OPAQUE.
152
 153

POACHED LOBSTER TAIL,

CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATE
WITH LEMON AND VERBENA,
BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY
SPINACH
This large decapod crustacean reigns on all of the chocolate and Menton lemon… Onward with
world’s great restaurant menus. Whether served the trials. Few were necessary, to tell the truth,

FOR 10 STARS
in Thermidor, with sauce américaine or in bisque, to concretize an idea that was already quite clear
it is always received with wide eyes—it is almost in my head.
mythical. The sweetness of the milk, the smoothness
It is not uncommon to also see it, with the talent and subtle flavor of the cocoa butter, give
of some chefs, prepared with vanilla, sweet the well-deserving lobster a delicate habitat.
and sour, spices, honey… among those I’ve In short, as you can tell, I’m a big fan!
tasted. To be honest, multiple approaches Another small detail I should tell you: I am not
tempted us for this recipe. Each was quite a chronic Francophile—far from it—but in our
different from the others, first of all in terms trials, we noticed that the Brittany lobster, unlike
of chocolate. its Canadian and American cousins, has no need
White chocolate was the keeper. to redden. On the contrary, it wins even with
Just thinking about those great family moments eyes closed: one recognizes it, feels that it stands
in Brittany spent savoring grilled lobster, out, in aroma and flavor. It is he—stop the
with a warm béarnaise sauce and its “enhancing” races—who has been chosen for the podium, for
and memorable acidity, I see it acidified. the show, for the photo shoot.
And there it is, an idea. This is one of the dishes we ate in the studio…
Just barely cooked, covered in a sort of silky after the photo, of course.
béarnaise delicately perfumed with white
 THE LOBSTERS AND FUMET

10 Brittany lobsters • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 5/6oz coarsely chopped carrots • 1 ripe tomato • Zest of 1 lemon • Juice of 1 lemon • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper
154

2 4

In a large pot, combine all the vegetables as well as

the lemon juice and zest.
Add the white wine and cover with water. Heat
and season.
In the meantime, prepare the lobsters. It is not always
easy, insensitive as you might be, to cause these little
critters pain. You can always ask for it to be done
when purchasing the lobsters. 3 5

Remove the claws and tails, and refrigerate

the “octopod” heads.
Tie the tails to two wooden skewers to keep them flat
when cooking, without which they would naturally
curl up. Add tails and claws to the gently boiling
water. After 4 or 5 minutes, depending on thickness,
take them out and carefully remove the shells
as quickly as possible.
Conserve the shells for the fumet and the tail
“panaches” for the presentation. Refrigerate
immediately. And now for the fumet and lobster heads.
With a large knife, cut the heads in half.
Add them to the stock from cooking the lobsters
and, if necessary, add more water to cover.
Reduce for approximately 2 hours, stirring
occasionally. The flavor should be strong, relatively
iodized, but not bitter.
Strain first through a chinois and a second time
through an etamine. Refrigerate. 6

1. I AM NOT A CHRONIC FRANCOPHILE, FAR FROM IT, BUT

IN DOING OUR TESTS WE REALIZED THAT THE BRITTANY 4. THE TAILS SHOULD BE FLAT.
LOBSTER LEAVES NOTHING TO BE DESIRED WHEN
COMPARED TO ITS CANADIAN AND AMERICAN 5. REFRIGERATE THE TAILS UNTIL JUST BEFORE
COUNTERPARTS. HOWEVER, FOR THE PHOTO, AND FOR 2. REMOVE THE TAIL FROM THE LIVE LOBSTERS. COOKING.
WANT OF BRITTANY LOBSTER, AS WELL AS FOR ITS TIE TWO CHOPSTICKS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE TAILS.
ALMOST CHOCOLATE LOOKING SHELL, WE OPTED FOR 6. POACH IN THE STOCK FOR A FEW SECONDS TO
THE CANADIAN TYPE. 3. FASTEN EACH TAIL TIGHTLY. FACILITATE THE REMOVAL OF THE SHELLS.
WHITE CHOCOLATE ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON SAUTÉED FRESH SPINACH
AND FRESH VERBENA WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER

21oz fresh spinach • Nyons olive oil with lemon* • 1 scoop fresh
1 3/4 cups lobster fumet • 4 fresh verbena leaves • Juice of 1 lemon • Zest of 1 lemon • 2 whole eggs • 2 egg yolks • 3 1/2oz Ivoire butter • 2 cloves of new, peeled garlic • Salt and freshly ground
white chocolate • Salt and freshly ground pepper pepper
155

7 11

Carefully wash the spinach.

In a frying pan, add a little water with the oil, butter
and garlic. Place over high heat and add the spinach.
Stir constantly, until the spinach is cooked but not
9 overdone. Remove the garlic cloves and season.
Keep warm to serve.

* Lemon olive oil is made at home by marinating

Menton lemon zest in the oil.

TO SERVE
8 10 Upon order, cook the tails and claws, but not
excessively.
Boil the fumet and infuse with the verbena and lemon Whip with a whisk over very low heat or, even more Remove them from their shells.
zest. After 4 minutes, strain through a chinois. cautiously, in a bain-marie. On hot plates, place the sautéed spinach and top
Gradually pour over the melted chocolate to begin The preparation becomes unctuous and slightly foamy. with a crescent of lobster tail slices. Coat with
the emulsion. Add the eggs, yolks and lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately. the onctueux of white chocolate and verbena.
Finish by adorning the plate with the lobster tail.
It’s so good… how did I not think of it before?

7. PREPARE AN EMULSION WITH THE WHITE 9. JUST BEFORE SERVING TIME, ADD THE WHOLE
CHOCOLATE AND THE LOBSTER FUMET INFUSED WITH EGGS AND EGG YOLKS. BEAT VIGOROUSLY.
VERBENA AND LEMON ZEST.
10. RUN THROUGH THE MIXER FOR A FEW SECONDS
8. CONTINUE TO GRADUALLY ADD THE FUMET TO BEFORE COATING THE LOBSTER TAILS, WHICH WILL 11. SWEAT THE SPINACH LEAVES IN BUTTER
ACHIEVE AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUS TEXTURE. KEEP HOT HAVE BEEN JUST REMOVED FROM THEIR SHELLS WITH THE TWO NEW, WHOLE GARLIC CLOVES THAT WILL
TO WHIP WITH THE EGGS JUST BEFORE SERVING. AND CUT INTO THIN SLICES. BE REMOVED AT THE END OF THE PREPARATION.
156
 157

GUESTS. ALL OF WHOM ARE ESSENTIALLY GOURMAND, OTHER THAN THAT…

RECIPE PREPARED TO COMFORT 3 UNSURE, 2 FAINT AND 5 APPREHENSIVE
GRILLED RED MULLET
FILETS, EMULSIFIED
TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET,
LEMON AND LA MANCHA
SAFFRON FRAGRANCES,
MARBLED LASAGNE
How to resist the temptation to cook a fish you meat that resists the fork when properly cooked.
love? It is my case—I don’t know what bug I was Contrary to certain white fish that only excel
bitten by, but I adore it. with sweet combinations or contrasts, the red
Is it because these acanthopterygians* live mainly mullet likes to be roughed up.
around rocks and feed on very mineral-rich The faint, unsure and apprehensive need only
plankton that their flavor is so strong and hold on tight: here we go!
particular? Most certainly.
The red mullet also has that iodized flavor that * I looked in the dictionary!
has already inspired us in other dishes, as well as “Bony fish with spiny dorsal fins”
 FOR THE RED MULLETS MARBLED LASAGNE
AND FUMET

For the cocoa dough

5 beautiful Brittany red mullets • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 17 1/2oz extra fine wheat semolina • 1 2/5oz cocoa powder • 1/4 tbsp fine salt • 1/5 cup water • 4 eggs (1 3/4-2oz) • 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
1 chopped leek (green part only) • 2 3/4oz coarsely chopped
carrots • 1 ripe tomato • 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and For the white dough
freshly ground pepper 17 1/2oz extra fine wheat semolina • 1/4 tbsp fine salt • 2 3/4 tbsp water • 4 eggs (1 3/4-2oz) • 1 1/2 tbsp olive oil
158

1 2 3

In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.

Add the white wine and cover with water.
Heat and season. Meanwhile, prepare the red mullets.
Scale, clean and separate the filets. Remove the bones
that sometimes remain in the filets, wash with salted
water, rinse and refrigerate until serving time.
Gut the remaining bones and rinse. Add these bones
to the hot stock. Cover with water and reduce
for approximately 1 1/2 hours, stirring from time to
time. We should end up with around 2 1/8-2 1/2 cups.
The flavor should be strong, relatively iodized,
but not bitter.
Strain first through a chinois and a second time
through an etamine. Refrigerate.

In a mixing bowl, either with a mixer or a wooden Finely press the two types of dough together to give
spoon, mix together the semolina, powdered cocoa a marbled effect and cut into wide, irregular strips
for the cocoa dough mixture, salt, water and eggs. of lasagna.
Knead slowly and, just when the dough acquires a Just before serving, cook in boiling, salted water. Take
slightly elastic texture, add the oil. care to cook the lasagne “al dente”, and add a little bit
Finish kneading by hand and refrigerate for a few of oil so that they do not stick together.
hours, or better still, overnight. Serve immediately.

2. PLACE STRIPS OF CHOCOLATE DOUGH OVER

THE BANDS OF WHITE DOUGH.

3. FINELY PRESS THE DOUGH TO OBTAIN MARBLED 4. COOK JUST BEFORE SERVING, AND MAKE SURE
1. RED MULLETS. LASAGNE. TO COOK THEM “AL DENTE”.
EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE BOILED ASPARAGUS
FUMET WITH LEMON ZESTS
AND SAFFRON

2 1/8 cups red mullet fumet • 4 lemon zests •

Juice of 1 lemon • 12 saffron pistils • 3 1/2oz Jivara milk
chocolate 40% • 1oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 17 1/2oz green asparagus • Butter • Salt and freshly ground
Salt and Espelette pepper pepper
159

Cleanly remove the lemon zests with a peeler; Throw the asparagus into the boiling, salted water.
they will be needed for the presentation. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, drain.
Combine the fumet, lemon juice, zests and saffron Cut lengthwise into thin slices.
together and reduce by half. Sauté in butter for a few seconds, season and serve.
Strain through a chinois and retrieve the lemon zests.
Emulsify the reduction with the two kinds
of chocolate.
Adjust the seasoning and keep hot for service.
At serving time, finely julienne the lemon zests.

TO SERVE
Drape the marbled “al dente” lasagne onto hot plates,
and place a seared red mullet filet at the center.
Coat generously with the two chocolate fumet and top
with a few julienned lemon zests and the green
asparagus.
By just smelling the exotic aromas of this dish it occurs
to me that it would have gone very well in a tajine as
well, so give it a try!

5. SAUTÉ THE RED MULLET FILETS WITH OLIVE OIL.

COOK IT ALMOST ENTIRELY ON THE SKIN SIDE.

6. FINISH ON THE OTHER SIDE FOR JUST A FEW

SECONDS AND SEASON BEFORE SERVING.
160

STEAMED COD FILET,

GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN,
CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE,
LAÏ CHU REDUCTION
AND FOAMY FUMET
OF SZECHUAN PEPPER
FOR 8-10 FANS OF MAGIC

It’s the Houdini of cold seas, in reference When cooked properly, the meat breaks apart
to the famous magician and illusionist. like shiny leaves whose gelatin makes them
Depending on its origin, whether or not it is wonderfully silky.
smoked or salted, it takes on a new look, a new Its flavor is mild but very present—this fish can
color, and, to make matters worse, a new name. be prepared in multiple ways.
It can be very confusing. Here, you will experience it accompanied by
Fresh, it is called cabillaud in France and bacalao a faux hollandaise sauce made with chocolate
in Spain, among other names. and Laï chu: this illustrious Chinese rice wine,
Salted and not dried, we call it morue, more aged in oak, offers unmistakable aromas of resin
precisely morue verte (green cod). or of oxidized wines, like our delicious Arbois.
Dried but not salted, it becomes merluche This hollandaise is false, because if we consult
in France, stockfish in other places… the culinary canon, we find that the basic
Black and fresh, it is called eglefin. ingredients are absent and that the others…
Green and smoked, it is haddock. well, they have no business here!
To make things simple, let’s call it cod. Only the texture, the principles of preparation
A fish that is in vogue, so much so that the Danes and the temperature made us think of it.
and Icelanders have started farming it; this makes Steamed to perfection, the skin is then grilled in
it difficult to guarantee the wonderful flavor we a gaufrette iron and, to stay in Asia, we delicately
have come to expect from our beloved cod. perfume a foamy cream with fumet and
Fresh, it has pure white meat that is very prized Szechuan pepper, and roast a few thin slices
by gourmets. of garlic.
161
 FOR THE COD FUMET FOR THE FISH AND SKIN GAUFRETTES

1 fresh cod, around 5 1/2lbs • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots •

1 chopped leek (green part only) • 2 3/4oz coarsely chopped
carrots • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 ripe tomato •
1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper 8 cod pavés • 8 rectangles of skin • Clarified butter
162

1 2 4

In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.

Add the white wine and cover with water.
Heat and season.
Meanwhile, prepare the fish.
Scale the cod and separate the filets.
Wash with salted water, rinse and refrigerate.
Gut the fish, if you haven’t already, and remove the
gills. Chop the dorsal fin into pieces and cut the head
in two; wash and add to the stock when it begins to
boil. Boil for approximately 1 hour, skimming the
foam off occasionally. 3 5
Strain first through a chinois and a second time
though an etamine, and reduce by half to make 2/3 to Separate the skin from the filets, taking care to keep
6/7 cup of reduced fumet. them intact. Cut the filets into 8 pieces of about
Refrigerate. 5 1/3oz each, and refrigerate. Fry the rectangles
of skin in oil, covered with sulphurized paper
and held down flat by the weight of a pan or a pot.
Once golden, set aside until serving. The cod pavés
will be lightly steamed upon order. I use a couscoussier,
and it works wonderfully.

2. PLACE THE COD PAVÉS ON LETTUCE LEAVES

TO LIGHTLY STEAM IN A STEAM OVEN OR IN A 4. CUT THE SKIN INTO RECTANGLES AND SLOWLY
COUSCOUSSIER. BROWN IN OIL.

3. WHEN THE COUSCOUSSIER IS HOT AND GIVES OFF 5. STOP THE PROCESS WHEN THE RECTANGLES ARE
1. PREPARE THE FISH FUMET WITH THE HEAD, BONES STEAM, COOK THE COD PAVÉS. AFTER 7 OR 8 MINUTES WELL BROWNED AND CRISPY. KEEP WARM AND DRY
AND VEGETABLES. THEY WILL BE COOKED, WITH A FIRM, WARM INTERIOR. FOR SERVING.
CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE CREAMY FUMET WITH THE GARNISH
(ALMOST MAYONNAISE), SZECHUAN PEPPER
LAÏ CHU REDUCTION

2 chopped garlic cloves • 1 chopped shallot • 6/7 cup Laï Chu •

3 egg yolks (1 2/5oz) • 2/5 cup reduced fish fumet • 1 1/4-1 1/2 The remaining fumet • Szechuan pepper • Whipping cream • Sea lettuce leaves (laitue de mer) • Fresh butter • 10 garlic
cup KKO oil (see page 284) • Soy sauce • Red Tabasco Salt cloves • Clarified butter
163

The final touch to balance the dish.

Heat the fumet and infuse with a few ground Szechuan
peppercorns. After 3 to 4 minutes, strain through
a chinois.
Add the cream to your liking, salt if necessary
and bring to a boil.
Just before serving, blend for a few moments to give
a foamy texture.

Remove the salt from the seaweed by soaking in water

for a minimum of a few hours beforehand. Drain
6 and sauté with butter before serving.
Separately, peel and thinly slice the garlic cloves.
Heat the KKO oil to approximately 45ºC/113ºF. Brown them in butter over low heat.
Reduce the garlic, shallots and Laï Chu until it acquires Be careful not to brown too much or they become
a slightly syrupy consistency. Strain through a chinois. bitter!
We should obtain a maximum of 1/5 to 1/4 cup of
juice.
Add the egg yolks and fumet to this reduction.
Over low heat, or in a bain-marie, stir frequently
to coagulate the preparation.
Once the texture is achieved, begin to gradually
add the KKO oil while stirring constantly. The mixture
will fall slightly, but this is normal.
Adjust the seasoning with the soy sauce and Tabasco.
Keep hot until serving.
TO SERVE
It is recommended that you prepare this sauce just
Place a few sautéed sea lettuce leaves in the center of the plate.
before serving, like a “real” hollandaise!
Top with a steamed cod pavé.
Elegantly arrange a few golden garlic chips and crown with the crispy skin.
Finish by abundantly coating with hollandaise sauce and a few ribbons of creamy fumet
with Szechuan pepper.
Another voyage for your taste buds, with no need for travel insurance…
Pure pleasure!

6. LAÏ CHU: CHINESE RICE WINE AGED IN OAK.

IN ITS ABSENCE, USE DRY WHITE WINE OR EVEN 7. SAUTÉ THE DE-SALTED SEA LETTUCE IN BUTTER
BETTER, SHERRY. AND SERVE.
164
 165

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE,

CHOCOLATE POLENTA,
SWEET AND SOUR TARO
BRUNOISE, FOAMY FUMET
OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED

FOR 8-10 TURBOPHILES*

CHOCOLATE FLAKES
A fish with cult status among chefs. They love it, the fact that the disproportionate growth of their
cherish it; everything is made sweeter for it in bodies forces them to lie down?
preparations, sauces and doneness. Sauces are It was nonetheless out of the question for them
never too cooked or too strong so that this noble to keep an eye in the sand—leave that to
fish’s meat retains its prized original flavor. the ostrich—and in fact, over time, these species
On the palate as well, it is all lovely, the silkiness have evolved and moved their eyes not to face
of the meat and the delicate flavor. Our many the ground, but to the top of their heads! It was
trials notwithstanding, we ultimately resigned much more practical this way.
ourselves to the path of almost mandatory Farmed turbot is now available, and in
respect demanded by this fish. It is consequently comparison is acceptable, though admittedly
one of the rare dishes without a chocolaty sauce a bit less flavorful. Keep your eyes above ground:
in one form or another. let’s cook.
Who would have imagined that these fish,
turned into dishes, would also have to accept * A word invented by me, not yet in the dictionary…
 THE TURBOT CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET
AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO

2 1/8 cup turbot fumet • 6/7 cup whipping cream 35% •

1 turbot, approximately 6 1/2lbs 1 3/4oz pistachio paste • Salt and freshly ground pepper
166

Boil the fumet with the cream and adjust

the seasoning.
Reserve a small portion to emulsify with the pistachio
paste, the texture of which should be similar to that
of a supple mayonnaise, and hot.
For the rest of the creamy fumet, blend for a few
seconds before serving to give it a foamy, gourmand
texture.

1 4

2 5

Wash the turbot and remove the head.

Be careful not to cut yourself here, as the bones
are large and sharp. With a large, serrated knife,
and very carefully, cut the turbot lengthwise,
in a precise manner down the dorsal spine to the tail.
We obtain two halves.
Cut 10 pieces, roughly equal in size; careful,
turbophiles have a sharp eye for these things!
For fun, we’ll make a nice fumet with the rest
of the bones and the head to accompany the dish.
3 More on that later.
Steaming is preferable for this preparation, using
the fumet if possible.
After cooking, remove the skin from both sides
and separate the two filets, then join them together
while still hot with the cold brunoise.
Serve immediately.

1. TURBOT.
2. USING A SHARP KNIFE, REMOVE THE HEAD
OF THE TURBOT. 4. WE OBTAIN TWO HALVES.
3. CUT THE FISH DOWN THE CENTER. 5. CUT INTO PIECES APPROXIMATELY 2 INCHES WIDE.
CHOCOLATE POLENTA TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO
AROMAS, RAPESEED OIL

10 1/2oz taro* brunoise • 2 very ripe tamarillos (tree tomatoes)

• Chopped pistachio • Juice of 1 lemon • Rapeseed oil • Salt
1 2/3 cups whole milk • 3 1/2oz precooked polenta • 1 2/5oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Salt and pepper and freshly ground white pepper
167

Blanch the taro brunoise until “al dente” and cool

with water.
Peel the tamarillos and cut in half to remove the seeds.
Cut its juicy, carmine colored meat into a brunoise.
Combine the taro, tamarillo and pistachios and season
moderately with the lemon juice, rapeseed oil, salt
and white pepper. Keep very cold since it will be
served cold as well.

* Large tuber of African origin.

6 7

Bring the milk to a boil and sprinkle in the polenta. At serving time, cut the polenta into pieces roughly TO SERVE
Stir constantly and bring to a boil. Before removing the same size as the pieces of turbot. On hot plates, place the polenta, a freshly cooked fish
from the pot, add the chocolate, season and finish Brown for a few moments before assembling a type filet and garnish with the sweet and sour taro
the mixture. of sandwich by placing the fish between two golden brunoise.
Transfer to a baking sheet, approximately 3/8 inch slices of polenta. Top with another turbot filet and finish with
thick, covered with plastic wrap. Refrigerate. the chocolate polenta.
Encircle everything with a ring of creamy, foamy
fumet and finish with a ribbon of pistachio fumet.
For greater enjoyment, the maître d’ might wish
to grate at the table, just as he would a truffle
6. SPRINKLE THE POLENTA INTO THE BOILING MILK or Parmigiano Reggiano, the spiced chocolate that
AND STIR CONSTANTLY UNTIL IT BEGINS TO A BOIL
AGAIN. I created at Valrhona, Xocopili.
Chocolate… but savory! Spiced… but with what?
7. ADD THE CHOCOLATE IN CHIP FORM, AND ADJUST
THE SEASONING. Mission accomplished, you have surprised the senses
8. SPREAD THE POLENTA OUT ONTO PLASTIC WRAP once again.
TO AN APPROXIMATE HEIGHT OF 3/8 INCH.
168

SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS

BREADED IN CACAO
AND PISTACHIOS,
A PILGRIMAGE FOR 8-10 PILGRIMS

NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS

By all accounts, pilgrims on their way to Santiago day be dressed in chocolate. In fact, having tried
de Compostela (Saint-Jacques in French) would it in almost every way, it was difficult for us
pick up large shells along the way and attach to picture it with chocolate. We therefore opted
them to their hats and coats. Not knowing their for the cacao flavor of nibs.
name, they called the shells “Saint-Jacques” It was almost a revelation. The wonderful
(today the French word for scallop). flavor of this “great pilgrim”, enriched by
It has since become the big star of the Saint- a long iodized note, fuses with the nib milk.
Brieuc bay and divides its time during the annual Finally, it is just barely chocolaty: a successful
scallop fest between the three scallop-rich ports pairing.
of the Armor Coast, Erquy, Saint-Quay Portrieux Though I am not a great fan of Surf
and Loguivy-de-la-Mer. and Turf, I admit that here I let myself be
Not in its wildest dreams did it ever think tempted by Sébastien’s idea in which iodine,
(nor did we, for that matter) that it would one nibs and fennel cohabitate so well.
169
 BREADED SCALLOPS “SURF AND TURF” BABY FENNEL “AU BLANC”

30 scallops • 30 slices, lean pancetta • 2 whole eggs • 7/8oz flour • 3 1/2oz cacao nibs • 3 1/2oz peeled pistachios • Salt and freshly 8-10 baby fennels • Butter • Vegetable stock • Salt and freshly
ground pepper ground pepper
170

First, boil the fennel taking care they retain their

crispiness.
Before serving, finish them “au blanc”, with a scoop
of butter and a few spoonfuls of vegetable stock or,
in its absence, water.
Season and assemble.

2 4

3 5

Carefully wash the scallops in salted water. Dry with At serving time, and thus cooking time, brown
a cloth and wrap each scallop with a slice of pancetta one side only and remove from heat.
before skewering. Coarsely grind the cacao nibs Dip the other side in the flour, then in the eggs
and pistachios. and finally in the cacao nibs and pistachio mixture.
Beat the eggs and sift the flour onto a flat plate. Sauté in oil and season.

1. WRAP EACH SCALLOP WITH A THIN SLICE OF LEAN

PANCETTA AND SKEWER.
4. FINALLY, BREAD WITH THE GROUND CACAO NIBS
2. AT SERVING TIME, BROWN ONE SIDE ON HIGH HEAT. AND PISTACHIOS.

3. DIP THE OTHER SIDE IN THE FLOUR AND THEN IN 5. COOK WELL ON THE BREADED SIDE AND JUST A
THE BEATEN EGGS. FEW SECONDS ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND SEND IT OFF!
FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE WITH FENNEL SEEDS

2 1/2 cups fresh milk, or better yet, raw • 3 1/2oz cacao nibs • 2 gelatin sheets • Fennel seeds • 2/5 cup whipping cream • 1 3/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Salt and freshly ground pepper
171

6 7 8

Boil the milk and steep the cacao nibs for around
7 to 8 minutes, then strain through a chinois.
Add the whipping cream, fennel seeds and soaked
gelatin sheets and bring to a boil.
Make an emulsion with the chocolate, season and heat
again.
At serving time, froth the hot mixture with a handheld
blender.
Place around the scallops just before sending the dish
off to preserve this foamy, gourmand texture.

TO SERVE
At the base of hot plates, place 3 breaded scallops per person.
In the center, between the scallops, plant the “lustrous”, tender fennel and finish
by garnishing everything with the cacao nib foam with fennel.
It’s now 11:17pm as I write out this recipe for you on my computer, I’m hungry
and my mouth is watering.
What bad luck! I have everything I’d need for this recipe except the scallops.
What to do?

7. ADD THE WHIPPING CREAM ALONG WITH

THE FENNEL SEEDS AND GELATIN. BRING TO A BOIL.
MAKE AN EMULSION WITH THE CHOCOLATE AND THIS 8. UPON ORDER, BLEND THE MILK WITH CACAO NIBS
6. BOIL THE MILK AND STEEP THE CACAO NIBS FOR VERY HOT MIXTURE. STRAIN IT ALL THROUGH AND CHOCOLATE FOR A FEW SECONDS TO MAKE
6 TO 8 MINUTES AND STRAIN THROUGH A CHINOIS. A CHINOIS AND KEEP HOT UNTIL SERVING. AN APPETIZING MOUSSE.
172
 173

PETIT PARMENTIER OF
FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC,
COULANT OF CHOCOLATE

RECIPE PREPARED FOR 8-10 GUESTS

AND THYME,
FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK
Near our respective homes, Les Dombes are Douillé’s, I used to love them this way: just
nestled in the north-east of Lyon. sautéed, they were covered in a light cream sauce
In the midst of their thousands of lakes, they are with a wonderful roasted garlic aroma. A bit like
home to numerous delicacies: game of the Japanese tepanyaki, on which thin slices of garlic
waters, freshwater rulers such as pike, but also are grilled until golden brown.
the famous frogs, batrachians so coveted by some We would uncover these wonderful aromas
and feared by others. under the foamy cream, in addition to the notes
Culinary history gives us frogs prepared in of cooking juice deglazed with white wine.
many ways. A few leaves of flat parsley enhanced
There, the method is often authentic. Being the ensemble, a real delicacy.
meaty, they conserve their inner tenderness best Here, it is with foamy, creamy and crisp textures
when sautéed, hiding it under a crisp golden that you will savor them, of course with notes
crust. In persillade remains perhaps the best way of cacao beans. A bold but wonderful pairing
to prepare them. I remember that at Roger that is, in the end, almost normal!
 THE FROG AND THE STOCK CREAMY HEART OF DARK MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG
CHOCOLATE

2 1/8 cups water • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • 3 1/2oz coarsely
chopped carrots • 1oz finely chopped onion • 1 clove • 2/5 cup whipping cream 35% • 1oz frog stock • 2 2/3oz
1 chopped chive • 20 fresh frog legs (9-11 per lb) • Salt and Guanaja chocolate 70% • 1/7oz wild thyme leaves • Salt and 7oz frog meat • 14oz potatoes • 2 new garlic cloves • Salt and
freshly ground pepper freshly ground pepper freshly ground pepper • 6 sheets phyllo dough • Melted butter
174

In a pot, combine the water, wine, carrots, onions, Boil the cream with the stock.
clove and chive. Season and bring to a boil for Infuse with the thyme for 4 to 5 minutes and strain
1 to 2 minutes. through a chinois.
Meanwhile, wash the frog legs in salted water Make an emulsion with the melted couverture.
and rinse. Add to the boiling hot stock and poach Adjust the seasoning.
on very low heat for around 5 minutes without Cover the base of a tray with plastic wrap and pour
boiling. Strain and let cool. in the ganache to a height of approximately 3/8 inch.
Carefully remove the meat from the frog legs Refrigerate. Once crystallized, cut the ganache using
and refrigerate along with the stock. a pasta cutter with a diameter of 1 1/2 inches,
after warming it on a flame.
Or save yourself the trouble and pour the hot 1
ganache directly into silicone molds 1/2 inch high
and 1 1/2 inches in diameter, and freeze.

We recommend that you use Mona Lisa potatoes.

Wash and peel the potatoes and boil them in salted
water. Roughly mash the potatoes and add
the chopped garlic.

1. USING A FORK, MASH THE POTATO PURÉE WITH

THE FROG MEAT TAKING CARE TO PRESERVE THE
PIECES OF MEAT INTACT.

2. COAT A STAINLESS STEEL RING WITH THE POTATO

PURÉE AND COVER THE BASE WITH A 3/8-2/3 INCH
THICK LAYER.

3. INSERT A GANACHE DISC IN THE STOCK AND TOP

WITH ANOTHER LAYER OF POTATO PURÉE.
REFRIGERATE AND DEMOLD.
 FOAMY FROG STOCK BREADED FROG LEGS WITH
PERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS TOASTED CORN FLOUR

2 1/7 cups frog stock • 7/8oz cacao nibs • 2/5 cup whipping 30 fresh frog legs (20/25 per kg) • Toasted corn flour • 1 lump
cream • 1 1/4 tbsp cornstarch • Salt and freshly ground pepper clarified butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper
175

Warm the cream and the stock and add the cacao nibs.
Steep for 4 to 5 minutes, not more.
Strain through a chinois. Dilute the corn starch in a bit
of liquid, then combine everything and bring to a boil.
Adjust the seasoning and reserve in a bain-marie.
Blend for a few seconds before serving to give it
a supple, foamy texture.

4 6

Wash the frogs in salt water and dry. Cleanly cut

the frog legs into “drumsticks” and roll them
in the cornstarch.
Remove the excess flour.
Sauté in butter until golden. Assemble and serve.

Add the frog meat and stir carefully in order to not

overly smash the mixture.
Adjust the seasoning.
Coat the sides of a stainless steel ring 2 3/8 inches in
diameter and 1 3/8 inches high with the potato purée TO SERVE
with frog and line the base with a layer 3/8 to 5/8 inch
Lightly sauté the “biscuits” in clarified butter to give
thick.
the phyllo dough a nice golden color.
Insert a cold or frozen ganache disc into the ring.
Finish by baking them in the oven at 170-180ºC/
Cover and smooth with the remaining potato purée.
338-356ºF for approximately 10 to 12 minutes.
Remove the rings from the “biscuits” and refrigerate.
Meanwhile, sauté the drumsticks and “foam” the frog
Spread out a preliminary phyllo dough sheet, butter
stock with cacao nibs.
and season, top with a second sheet and press lightly.
Place the little biscuit at the center of the plate,
Repeat the operation one more time to obtain
topped by the crispy drumsticks. For aesthetic value,
a “puff pastry” of 3 layers.
adorn with a few blanched, very fine green beans.
Cut each sheet into four squares and wrap each potato
Encircle everything with the foamy stock.
“biscuit”. Press lightly to close for easier baking.

4. WRAP EACH “BISCUIT” WITH A SQUARE SHEET

OF PHYLLO DOUGH.

5. RUFFLE AND PINCH LIGHTLY TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE 6. AT SERVING TIME, SAUTÉ THE FROG LEGS DIPPED
A CHARLOTTE. REFRIGERATE. IN CORNSTARCH.
176

IN A PUFF PASTRY
JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED
MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER,
CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX
FOR 5 KINGS AND 5 QUEENS, OR WHOEVER YOU LIKE…

MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL,
PURÉED PEAS
This fish did nothing to warn me of all A texture of foie gras, or almost—it was a bit
of its surprises. Its almost enormous head creamier; the pure, iodized flavor of coral,
is not very attractive when spotted at the market. and the same bitterness or astringency you get
For not having prepared it much, and especially with foie gras.
for having ruined it by overcooking it and I once again found my iodized notes,
making it rubbery, I wanted to punish myself. accomplices of chocolate; the mustard went
I had in fact eaten monkfish cheeks once straight to my nose and made me think of Brillat-
and found them delicious. Savarin, who used to say of this Meaux mustard,
So here we were at the fishmonger’s, who first jewel of Mr. JB Pommery, that it was the mustard
sang the praises of monkfish cheeks, continuing of gourmets. That’s it! Thank you, Mr. Savarin
even more animatedly with monkfish liver. and Mr. Pommery.
I spotted the salmon-colored “lobe”, glistening I will remember Sebastien’s effort with this dish:
on the ice. “Lightly sautéed, in persillade, he summoned the great willpower to finally
it’s simple and delicious with a ribbon of vinegar: agree to taste a fish (the horror!) and, what’s
you should try it!” he said. more, to like it.
The selling operation a success, we left with As for Rika, she assured me, from the height
our monkfish cheeks and liver in search of new of her office through her microphone, by saying:
adventures. “it’s really good” and by giving me the idea
We were pleasantly surprised when we followed of preparing it in a bouchée a la reine.
the man’s recommendation.
177
 INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS*

Kneaded butter:
1lb type 45 flour • 2 1/2lbs butter

Détrempe:
37oz flour • 1 2/5oz salt • 2/5oz vinegar • 11 5/7oz butter • 1 9/10 cups water

For the pâton:

66 1/3oz détrempe • 55 1/2oz kneaded butter • 2 eggs for brushing
178

For the kneaded butter:

Knead the butter with the flour and spread
between two plastic sheets. Let sit in the refrigerator
for a few hours.

To make the détrempe:

Knead the butter with the flour and add the salt.
Add the vinegar mixed with the water.
Knead the dough correctly without overworking
it and let sit in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours.
1 3

2 4

For the tourage:

Spread out the kneaded butter to a sufficient size
in order to wrap the détrempe.
After the first folding, give a double turn, and let stand
for a minimum of 2 hours before the next double turn.
Refrigerate overnight and finish with a single turn
before preparation.
Spread the puff pastry dough 3/16 inch thick
and cut into squares, 4 inches by 4.
As shown in the photos above, cut out the middle
of 10 squares and leave another 10 whole. Brush 5
the whole squares with the egg and stack the square
“rings” on top. Brush again, taking care not to let
it drip, and etch a grid into the center. Let stand
for around 30 minutes before baking
at 200-210ºC/392-410ºF.
When finished, remove the tops with a paring knife.
This way they remain crispy.

* You can go to the trouble of making your own puff 3. FOLD THE DOUGH SQUARES OVER AND CUT WITH
A PARING KNIFE.
pastry dough and achieve incomparable results, but if you
4. WE OBTAIN FRAMES OF PUFF PASTRY DOUGH WITH
choose to simplify your life by purchasing frozen dough, THE CENTERS CUT OUT.
made with butter, and save your time for other things, 1. BRUSH THE FIRST SQUARES OF PUFF PASTRY
DOUGH MODERATELY. 5. PLACE A WHOLE DOUGH SQUARE, BRUSH WITH EGG
I understand. Nonetheless, I have provided you with AND TOP WITH A SQUARE “RING”. BRUSH AGAIN
2. USING THE TIP OF A KNIFE, ETCH THE SURFACE AND REFRIGERATE FOR 30 MINUTES BEFORE BAKING
a recipe here just in case. TAKING CARE NOT TO PRESS TOO HARD. AT 200-210ºC/392-410ºF.
IT LOOKS LIKE BECHAMEL… SAUTÉED MONKFISH LIVER “GREEN PEACE” PURÉE
BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND CHEEKS
AND MEAUX MUSTARD

17 1/2oz fish fumet (See page 284) • 1 2/5oz praline,

50% nuts • 2 3/4oz Meaux mustard, Maison Pommery •
2/3oz cornstarch • 1 3/4oz whole milk • 3 1/2oz Guanaja 17 1/2oz monkfish liver • 8 3/4oz monkfish cheeks • Butter • 14oz fresh shelled peas • 2/5 cup heavy cream • Salt and
chocolate 70% • Salt and freshly ground pepper Salt and freshly ground pepper pepper
179

Dilute the cornstarch in the cold milk. Cook the peas “al dente”.
Add the praline and mustard, and whisk vigorously Drain, let cool… and relax!
to give it a smooth texture. Add the cream, season and boil for one minute.
Heat the fumet and pour over the mixture. Blend finely in the food processor. For an even finer
Boil everything for 2 to 3 minutes, while whisking texture, you can pass it through a silk sieve. Keep
constantly. hot for serving.
Pour a part over the chocolate to begin an emulsion;
continue adding the boiling cream. Season and
add the sautéed monkfish cheeks and liver, taking care
not to break them in the process.
6

Wash the liver and cheeks in salted water. Remove

the skin from both sides of the cheeks. Sauté
the cheeks and liver separately, over high heat.
Let cool and cut into pieces, not too small.
Set aside while you prepare the chocolate béchamel.

TO SERVE
Heat the monkfish and chocolate filling and fill the puff pastries.
Cover with the tops and serve hot after adding a few spoonfuls
of pea puree.
If Mr. Bechamel could see us now! Perhaps he would be flattered to see
that his recipe can still inspire.

6. SAUTÉED MONKFISH LIVERS, CUT.

7. SAUTÉED MONKFISH CHEEKS.
182 FILET OF VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE AND CELERIAC PURÉES,
SWEET AND SOUR GRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE

186 GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE,
HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCY AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

190 VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE,
TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM

194 SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY,

SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES, LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND VIOLET MUSTARD

198 MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS,

VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH

202 FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET AND SOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE,
GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE, A FEW BEAN SPROUTS

206 SYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORK KNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT,

A FEW VEGETABLES

210 SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ON THE BONE,

SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF PASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVES

214 DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS,

CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE

218 BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE

WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

EARTH
222 ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED
WITH CHOCOLATE, BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILD MUSHROOMS

226 STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITH CACAO NIBS,

CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND ROSEMARY RABBIT JUS EMULSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATE
EARTH 181
182

FILET OF VENISON BREADED

À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE AND
CELERIAC PURÉES, SWEET AND
FOR 8-10 GAME LOVERS OR RECALCITRANT FRIENDS

SOUR GRIOTTE CHERRY

AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE
In older cookbooks, as I mentioned in my I prefer to “nouvelle cuisine”—is simply more
introduction, chocolate often appeared in sauces respectful of the original flavor of the
for game in particular. ingredients, as well as more correct in the usage
Think of hare a la royale, coq au vin, and various of the tools required to prepare them.
other sauces. On the recommendation of Philippe, Philippe
The chocolate squares are melted in just before Girardon, chef and maitre d’ with his wife
serving to thicken the sauce. The often small Laurence of the magnificent Domaine
quantity of chocolate makes it go unnoticed. de Clairefontaine in Chonas l’Amballan,
With this dish, we have chosen a simple and in the Isère region of France, I tried a so-called
respectful cooking technique for the venison “dry” marinade—in fact with oil. Something
through an English-style breading, nothing new for me. It has such a beneficial effect on
more. the texture of meat, without altering its flavor,
The sauce is more elaborate but still respects the that I’ve since adopted it for use in other dishes.
venison’s gaminess. Philippe is also one of those people who, for
Two velvety purees round out the ensemble. a few years now, have bravely tried my cuisine
We are far from classic marinated venison stews, and, moreover, boldly told me what they think.
in which the wine predominated at the risk of In this dish, the venison retains its flavor intact.
making us forget that we were eating venison. It’s enough to win over all of those who remained
I think that the “new way of cooking”—a term unconvinced about game.
183
 TO PREPARE THE VENISON CELERIAC PURÉE WITH
CARAMELIZED CREAM

1 venison filet, 42-53oz • 1 1/4 cups vegetable oil • 1 chopped For the English style breading mixture 17 1/2oz celeriac, diced • 10 1/2oz potatoes, diced • 1qt whole
onion • 2 chopped bay leaves • Coarsely ground pepper • 8 3/4oz very fine breadcrumbs • 3 egg whites • Flour • milk • Salt and freshly ground white pepper • 5/7 cup double
1 coarsely chopped carrot Clean oil bath cream • 1/2oz superfine sugar
184

Cook the celeriac and potatoes in the milk until

tender. Drain and dry in the oven for 15 minutes
at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF.
Weigh out 7 ounces of potatoes and set aside for
the purple purée.
Reduce and lightly caramelize the cream with
the sugar. Add the rest of the vegetables and season.
Very finely blend in the food processor and strain
through a very fine mesh sieve. Set aside.

1 3

2 4

Mix the oil with the bay leaves, pepper and vegetables. Repeat the steps for each filet, taking care to remove
Cut the filet in two, lengthwise. Coat the filets in oil the excess flour and egg.
and place them in a salad bowl so they are completely It is the secret to achieving a perfect, smooth breading.
immersed in the marinade. Refrigerate for 12 hours. Fry in an oil bath heated to 180ºC/356ºF.
Prepare the breading before service. The temperature will drop immediately, so we must
Place the egg whites, flour and breadcrumbs onto return the oil to the temperature and maintain it
separate plates. there until the breading is a deep golden color. Drain
Remove the filets from the marinade, rinse them and cut immediately, before the breading starts
gently and dry them well with a cloth. to detach from the meat.
Skewer them with a wooden skewer. Roll them first The temperature in the center should be 50-52ºC/
in the flour, then in the egg whites and finally in the 122-126ºF.
breadcrumbs.

3. REMOVE ANY EXCESS EGG WHITES BEFORE

1. SKEWER THE FILETS WITH A WOODEN SKEWER ROLLING IN THE DRY BREADING.
AND UNIFORMLY FLOUR THEM. REMOVE EXCESS
FLOUR. 4. FRY UPON ORDER IN AN OIL BATH HEATED TO
170-180ºC/338-356ºF, TAKING CARE THAT THE CENTER
2. COAT IN THE FRESH EGG WHITES. REMAINS PINK.
PURPLE PURÉE GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRY
CORNAS WINE AND CHOCOLATE COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE

5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 1 lump butter • 2 3/4oz honey •

7oz griotte cherries, frozen • 1 cup Cornas red wine • 1 cup 5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 1 large lump butter • 6 tbsp acacia
10 1/2oz boiled red beets • 7oz boiled potatoes • 2 3/4oz cold veal fond blanc, or even better, game stock • 1 1/6oz Pur honey • 7oz frozen griotte cherries • 2/3 cup Cornas red wine
butter in cubes • Salt and freshly ground pepper Caraïbe chocolate 66% • Salt and freshly ground pepper (I like Monsieur Clape) • Salt and freshly ground pepper
185

Grind the beets and potatoes together. In a sautoir, or skillet, brown the shallots in butter. Brown the shallots well with the butter and honey.
Strain through a sieve. Separately, lightly caramelize the honey by itself, then Deglaze with the red wine and add the cherries.
Heat in a pot while stirring to evaporate the liquid stop the process by adding the thawed griotte cherries. Over very low heat, reduce until it acquires the texture
and give it a supple, smooth texture. Combine the two preparations and add the veal stock of compote, taking care not to let it become a puree.
Remove from heat, add butter and season. and wine. Reduce slowly, to about half. Season.
Keep hot. Strain through a chinois to obtain around 1 cup of jus. Keep hot for serving or refrigerate immediately.
Emulsify with the chocolate and adjust the seasoning.
Keep in a bain-marie or refrigerate immediately.

TO SERVE
The vegetable purees and the cherry compote should be kept hot.
Thicken the cherry sauce with the chocolate and blend for a few moments with a handheld
blender to give it a perfect velvety, lustrous texture.
Cut the venison filets into pieces as soon as they are taken out of the oil.
On a very hot plate, pour two intersecting lines of the vegetable purees, one of each.
Place a quenelle of griotte cherry compote with Cornas wine and generously coat the center
of the plate with the chocolate sauce. Finish with a pink morsel of breaded venison filet.
A simple gourmet moment… perfect, don’t you think, Eyvind Hellstrøm?
186
 187

GRILLED RÉMUZAT
LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE
SAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE,
HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCY
AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

FOR 8-10 LOVERS OF SAGE AND LAMB

This dish is so simple, so under-worked, that from the looks of it, even with some enjoyment.
the flavor combination is almost logical. It is one It is not unusual with chocolatiers today,
of the dishes that seemed evident to me before or at least with the most playful of them, to come
even making it. across rosemary ganaches.
I remember the chickens my mother used In the sage, we find complex notes of camphor,
to make us when I was a child: they filled pine needles, lemon, and even, when I think
the house with fresh sage, with the aroma of it, blue genepi, which Luc, my friend from
of crisp caramelized skin and reduced jus. Embrun, sends me so kindly every year
I didn’t get tired of it: I like sage. I have always by stagecoach or parachute, depending
known it simply as it is, sometimes accompanied on the weather…
by roasted garlic heads, and even then rarely. It seems like it has always been made to go
In this dish, I have preserved it intact, simple and with chocolate.
authentic, with all of its freshness and camphor It is, then, a dish with references that are almost
notes—one would say it was freshly picked. evident to everyone, but with a lot of chocolate;
As for the lamb, it is one of my favorite meats. we sometimes even have a tendency to forget
Not far from where we live, in Drôme, lambs are it is there since its presence seems so natural.
raised in Rémuzat, a rather charming village that As soon as we start to mix the chocolate sauce
evidently does them good—well, the mountain and the amber lamb jus with the end of a fork,
pastures that surround it, to be more precise. lines appear on the plate like fondant
Rika, who doesn’t like lamb, eats it anyway, and, on a millefeuille, and then…
 TO PREPARE THE LAMB THE CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE POTATO TRANSPARENCY
AND JUS WITH HERBS

1 saddle of lamb, approximately 7 3/4lbs • 5 1/3oz chopped

shallots • Nyons olive oil • 1 whole peeled onion • 7oz coarsely
chopped carrots • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 2 leeks
(green part) • 1 celery stalk • 750 ml (1 bottle) dry white 6/7 cup whole milk • 8-10 fresh sage leaves • 4 2/5oz Pur 17 1/2oz large potatoes • Butter and Nyons oil • Salt and
wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper Caraïbe chocolate 66% • Salt and freshly ground pepper pepper • Fresh assorted herb leaves (sage, flat parsley, etc.)
188

Boil the milk and steep the chopped sage for no

more than 4 to 5 minutes. Strain through a chinois.
Emulsify with the melted chocolate, season and blend
for a few seconds to smooth the sauce to perfection.
Keep hot, or even heat it up a bit more so that
the sauce thickens by itself.
Do not let it boil!

Separate the two filets from the saddle of lamb and

wash them properly. Set aside.
With a cleaver, thickly cut the ribs, removing
any excess fat if present.
Place on a large tray and roast in a very hot oven in
order to toast the bones. Flip occasionally so
they brown in a uniform manner. 3
Take out of the oven and trim the fat.
In a large pot, brown the shallots in the oil and add Wash the potatoes without peeling them.
the onion, previously halved and charred over the Using a mandolin slicer, cut into the thinnest slices
flames until almost black. possible. Stack them in two piles of 20 slices each,
Add the remaining vegetables and white wine and cut into rectangles. There is no need to wash
and cover with water. them. Place 20 slices, one by one, onto oiled,
Reduce the stock for 8 to 10 hours, taking care to skim parchment paper. On each slice, position
and remove the fat when needed. an assortment of fresh herbs of your choice.
Strain through a chinois, then through an etamine Cover with a second potato slice and press.
and reduce to a demi-glace, or by about two thirds. Using a brush, coat the surface with a mixture
Adjust the seasoning and set aside. of oil and butter. Cover with another sheet of paper
For the filets, sear them when they are very cold and place a tray of the same size on top to keep
on high heat, making sure they acquire a uniform pressure on the slices.
color. Bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF, checking the doneness
Season and roast in the oven at 170-180ºC/338-356ºF from time to time.
for a few minutes. The temperature in the center After 25 to 30 minutes the potato slices will be golden
should be 48-50ºC/118-122ºF. Let stand for and transparent. Remove from the oven and store
2 to 3 minutes and cut into thick slices. in a dry place.

2. POTATO TRANSPARENCY.
3. PLACE A FEW SAGE AND PARSLEY LEAVES BETWEEN
TWO POTATO SHEETS, THINLY SLICED WITH A
1. DE-BONE THE SADDLE OF LAMB AND SEPARATE THE MANDOLIN SLICER. BRUSH WITH OIL AND BAKE
TWO FILETS. ON LOW HEAT BETWEEN TWO TRAYS.
SIDE VEGETABLES

5 small violet artichokes • 17 1/2oz young carrots • 5 1/3oz wild asparagus • Olive oil • Lemon juice • Butter • Vegetable stock •
Salt and freshly ground pepper
189

Cut the artichokes in two. Coat them lightly with oil

and lemon juice and sauté, covered, on low heat.
Remove the carrot leaves, wash them and boil in salted
water.
Do the same for the wild asparagus, but less time
is needed than for the carrots.
Follow by combining the vegetables in a pan with
the butter and stock.
Reduce while stirring to glaze the vegetables, little
by little. Season and assemble.
5

TO SERVE
The vegetables should be glazed and hot.
The lamb demi-glace and the chocolate-sage sauce maintain their supple, creamy texture
in the bain-marie. The lamb is done: rosy and sliced.
Place the vegetables on the plate in a haphazard manner. Cover with an initial potato and herb
transparency. Add the lamb slices on top, taking care to extract any excess blood with absorbent
paper. Generously coat with the Pur Caraïbe chocolate sauce with sage.
4. LIGHTLY SAUTÉ THE VIOLET ARTICHOKES IN OLIVE
OIL AND SEASON. Arrange the second potato transparency and the golden, tender artichoke.
5. QUICKLY BLANCH THE VEGETABLES THEN COOK Finished! Order up for table 7, please!
THEM WITH THE STOCK AND BUTTER.
190
 191

VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCO

WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA
AND CHOCOLATE,
TOASTED ALMONDS

FOR 8-10 ADEPTS OF RUM ADAPTATIONS

AND WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM
This cut of meat on the bone (osso) with a hole Everyone at the table was reveling in it, scraping
(bucco) is apparently Italian in origin. The dish their plates in appreciation of this wonderful
definitely is: it is made with tomato sauce little flavor (rice sautéed in marrow… if they
and traditionally served with rice. only knew!); it makes me think that this type
We all know the richness and, at the same time, of reticence, like many others in other parts
the delicacy of veal—we need not discuss of the world, is due more to a question of look,
it further here. With this type of meat, the choice appearance or texture than taste.
cuts are many and they have inspired numerous It is true that eating the “substantive marrow
specialties all over the world. of a bone with a hole” seems a bit barbaric,
Cooked in osso bucco, we especially benefit from I must admit. We are not so far removed from
the wonderful and particular flavor of the Koreans who eat the still-warm brains
marrow. For those who appreciate it, of course. of monkeys freshly trepanned for the cause.
Though, as I’ve often noticed at home, those Our escargots are not much nicer to talk about.
who do not like marrow love my green risotto, Getting back to our osso bucco, I kept the essence
gold-plated if you will, a near perfect replica of the meat in sauce and just slightly… modified
of the one Frédérick had shown me at his the ingredients. It has become a Creole dish!
temporary apartment on Rue Lamarck. I stirred Dark rum, vanilla, chilies, cinnamon, almonds,
and mixed so much and so well that I finally grapes and chocolate. Cooked like bœuf
understood how to do it. bourguignon, it has exotic flavors.
 VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE

10 good slices of veal shank • 5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 3 1/2oz chopped onions • Vegetable oil • 3 Tahitian vanilla beans • 1 2/3 cups Dillon aged rum • 1 bottle white wine • 4 2/5oz peeled almonds •
5 1/3oz golden raisins • 2 pico de pájaro peppers • Salt • 7-8 3/4oz Pur Caraïbe chocolate 66%
192

2 3

1. SEAR THE MEAT SLICES IN A BIT OF OIL; BROWN

THE SHALLOTS AND ONIONS WITH THE REST OF THE
FAT IN A PAN.

2. POUR IN THE WHITE WINE, RUM AND WATER 3. 30 MINUTES BEFORE SERVING, THICKEN THE STOCK
AND ADD THE SPICES, NUTS AND AROMATICS. WITH THE CHOCOLATE AND GENTLY SIMMER WHILE
SIMMER ON LOW HEAT FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS. COVERED.
 193

TO SERVE
Serve the osso bucco with the accompaniment of your
choice.
I opted for the Italian version, with rice, and it was
perfect. I just added a little grated coconut to the rice
before cooking. It is delicious and really gives
the impression of being there.
Lastly, I give you a final piece of advice: all types
of meats in sauces are better if you leave them to “sit”
for a night. And what’s more, it makes the mise en
place for the dish exceedingly simple.

For greater precaution, tie the veal slices with string to avoid sticking to the pan.
to preserve their form. Sear with a little oil and set When the cooking seems done, remove the meat with
aside. care as it can easily come right off the bone -a sign
Toast the almonds in the oven at 140-150ºC/ of perfect doneness!- and strain the rest through
284-302ºF for approximately 20 minutes and crack, a chinois. Save everything that is left in the chinois.
scrape and cut the vanilla beans. This process allows us to recuperate the juices for
In a sautoir, or skillet, brown the shallots and onions. the chocolate emulsion.
Deglaze with the rum, add the almonds, raisins, When the emulsion is finished, blend for a few
vanilla beans and peppers, stir and flambé. seconds for a perfect texture and combine with all
Add the white wine and veal slices and cover with of the vegetables in the pot.
water. Lightly salt. Leave to cook, covered, on low heat Return the meat to the pot and finish by cooking
for approximately 2 hours, stirring from time to time slowly for 25 to 30 minutes. Ready to serve.

4. THE DISH IS FINISHED AND THE SAUCE IS

UNCTUOUS AND LACQUERS THE MEAT PERFECTLY.
194

SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ,

FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY,
SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES,
LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND
VIOLET MUSTARD
After my experience with foie gras, I was quite and tender foies, shallots almost confits, violet
enthusiastic about the creation of this dish. mustard and a tip-top savory chocolate soufflé.
Having already done the terrine, we needed The secret to making it is cream of tartar. Little
to come up with another great idea. known in our cuisine, it is much more common
We began with a chocolate custard, then in the United States, for example, where it is
FOR 8-10 SOUFFLÉ ADDICTS

prepared a sort of soufflé in which we mixed, “normal” to have, even for a housewife;
as with the foie gras, a bit of liver, but… nothing especially if one wants to make Chiffon Cake,
amazing came of it. an incredibly soft cake that looks like a
Sébastien had brought back foies blonds from marshmallow biscuit. Without giving you a full
his mother’s that were deliciously fragrant technological explanation, but some nonetheless,
and velvety, very nearly foie gras. I could only I will provide a few details on the subject.
picture them well browned and crisp. Egg whites are composed, among other things,
With an acidic note from I knew not where, of albumin. Its molecules are sensitive to acidity,
and why not with a good soufflé—the real whatever the source; that is why, in the recipes
kind—a chocolate one… what else? of pros or even gourmets, we often see lemon
I remembered the nice gift Cyril had given me. juice, a drizzle of vinegar or a pinch of salt.
He came by the school and told me, “I have The effect can be explained by the following
a surprise!” He brought me Hermitage lie de vin image.
from Jaboulet. We could compare their molecules to thousands
That’s it, I knew where to get my light acidity of small balls of yarn. If they are well unraveled,
and turned directly to the violet mustard I have the whites are extremely light: one could almost
in my fridge. mistake them for shaving cream. If, on the other
Sébastien gave me the idea of the small hand, they are badly unraveled, the whites
Le Creuset cast iron pot: “that way, it won’t fall “granulate, flocculate and separate.” In other
as quickly… brilliant, isn’t it?” he said. Our words, they are unattractive, rough and fall
seatbelts were fastened. worryingly into the mixture, often leaving lumps
We still had to make the savory soufflé, with in the process. Cream of tartar also has the virtue
no added sugar except that of the chocolate. of being neutral in flavor and not detracting at all
I must say, I hadn’t expected so many attempts from the equilibrium of a dish.
in one sitting! There, I’ve told you everything, or almost
Finally, I had everything I like: the crisp anyway.
195
 THE SOUFFLÉ DOUGH

8 3/4oz egg whites • 1 2/3 tbsp sugar • 1/10oz cream of tartar • 3 1/2oz egg yolks • 8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1/7 cup whole milk • 2 1/2 tbsp cornstarch • Salt and freshly ground pepper
196

1 4 6

2 5 7

Combine the cold milk and cornstarch. to hold to the mixer blades, continue at moderate
Bring to a boil while stirring and whisking vigorously speed.
so that the mixture does not stick to the pan. After The egg whites will become light, smooth, very
boiling well, the mixture should be thick, creamy smooth, and will resemble shaving cream, as we said
and lustrous. Add the chocolate and egg yolks before. Whip until peaks form and add them
and whisk vigorously until the mixture emulsifies delicately, in two turns, to the chocolate mixture kept
“by itself”, or in other words, becomes smooth. Season at 35-40ºC/95-104ºF. Fill the small pots or ramequins
and begin to whip the egg whites. after coating the surface with butter.
Combine the cream of tartar with the sugar and mix At this point they can be refrigerated for up to a day,
into the egg whites all at once, while whisking or for both services if done in late morning.
constantly. Bake at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, depending on
Blend with a handheld mixer on high speed first thickness, for 8 to 10 minutes. Serve immediately,
3 to increase volume, and when the egg whites start just like a real soufflé!

1. WHEN YOU BEGIN TO EMULSIFY THE CHOCOLATE

WITH THE BOILED MILK AND CORNSTARCH IT WILL
CURDLE BUT STOP WITH THE ADDITION OF THE EGG
YOLKS.

2. ADD THE EGG YOLKS AND WHISK VIGOROUSLY. 4. ADD THE WHIPPED EGG WHITES AND STIR GENTLY 6. COAT WITH BUTTER AND FILL THE SMALL POTS
WITH A SPATULA. OR RAMEQUINS. BAKE THE SOUFFLÉS AT 190-200ºC/
3. THE CHOCOLATE MIXTURE BECOMES SMOOTH 374-392ºF FOR 8 TO 10 MINUTES.
AND LUSTROUS. MAKE SURE THE TEMPERATURE 5. WHEN FINISHED, THE DOUGH SHOULD BE SUPPLE
IS BETWEEN 35-40ºC/95-104ºF. AND LUSTROUS, READY FOR USE IN THE PASTRY BAG. 7. THE BAKED SOUFFLÉ.
FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN, OR IN ITS ABSENCE, WINE

17 1/2oz poultry or fowl foies blonds • 5 1/3oz chopped shallots • 7/8oz superfine sugar • 2 1/2oz butter • 5 1/3oz lie de vin or syrah wine • 2 3/4oz dried cranberries • Salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 jar violet mustard
197

De-vein the foies as much as possible.

Brown the shallots in the butter and sugar.
Deglaze with the lie de vin, or wine, add the cranberries
and gently reduce until it acquires a syrupy, light
demi-glace consistency. In a separate pan, quickly
sauté the foies in butter on high heat, barely cooking
them.
Just before serving, combine the two preparations
and sauté for a few seconds to coat everything taking
care to not overly cook the foies, which would make
8 them dry.

TO SERVE
I think we’ve covered everything already, or almost…
On hot plates, place a few lacquered foies, two generous ribbons of violet mustard
and lastly the soufflé… done!
Don’t forget that the steam it gives off is what keeps the soufflé “up”.
This explains why the better the heat is distributed, through a slow blending, and the larger
the mold—which allows it to retain heat better—the more efficient and active this steam
will be in supporting our construction. Now that’s really everything.

8, CRANBERRIES CONFIT. 9. SAUTÉ THE FOIES.

198

MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED

WITH CACAO NIBS,
RECIPE PREPARED FOR 8-10 DINNER GUESTS

VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE
AND PATTYPAN SQUASH
A wild thing of beauty… a bewildering array crust, and I had an intuition: “why not add
of colors, and the energy to explore the sky. nibs—in other words, chocolate—to this crust?”
But also such delicately fragrant meat. Et voilà…
I couldn’t resist the desire to cook this game bird The basic concept is there once again, and all
that I love. that’s left is to interpret it in such a way as
Just pink, with the flavor of cacao nibs roasted to respect the ingredients and not inhibit
to perfection, it captures us with tenderness anything with the chocolate.
and delicacy. The chocolate flavor is given here in two ways.
It has always been rather complicated for us The cacao nibs, strong and fragrant, give the salt
to achieve such flavor equilibriums, especially crust a much deeper role than a simple cooking
when working with such unique and delicate method: it’s tasty. The chocolate couverture
flavors as mallard. is there to make the duck jus smooth and silky.
Sébastien was thinking about cooking it in a salt
199
 FOR THE CACAO NIBS THE MALLARD FILETS
AND SALT CRUST

4-5 mallard ducks, approximately 3 1/3-4lbs each, or 8-10 select filets of mallard duck prepared by the butcher, reserving the
carcasses for the stock • Salt and freshly ground pepper
10 1/2oz grey Guérande salt • 21oz cacao nibs • 10 1/2oz egg
whites • 1 2/3 cups flour, type 45 • 2 2/3oz cocoa powder Reserve the thighs for another occasion.
200

1 3 4

Separate the duck filets yourself or use prepackaged

filets.
Using a very sharp knife, score a uniform grid pattern
into the skin. This will give them an attractive visual
appearance and facilitate trimming the fat when
searing the filets. Keep the filets very cold before
searing. In a hot stainless steel pan, place the filets
and press them down with the bottom of a pan to
ensure a uniform caramelization of the skin. Trim
the excess fat from the pan as it liquefies.
2 Stop the cooking when the skin and the grid are well 5
browned. Let the filets cool completely in the
In a food processor, finely blend the nibs together refrigerator or cold storage room. Place each filet over
with the salt, flour and cocoa powder. an oval of nibs and salt paste.
Add the egg whites and knead lightly with the palm Moisten the perimeter with a wet brush.
of your hand to give it a perfectly uniform and slightly Top with a second layer of cacao nib paste, pressing
elastic texture. firmly to enclose the filet in a sort of turnover.
Spread out the paste to a thickness of 3/16 to 1/4 inch Cut off the extra paste around the filet.
and dust with flour if necessary. Moisten the entire surface with a brush and score
Using a paring knife, cut 20 oval pieces of 5 to it with the tip of a knife to give it the appearance
6 3/8 inches long and 3 to 4 inches wide. of a cacao fruit.
Place 10 pieces onto parchment paper and keep Form a small stem with the paste. Refrigerate until
the rest under a damp, clean cloth. cooking, to be done just before serving.

4. COVER WITH A SECOND LAYER OF PASTE AND

“SOLDER” WITH YOUR FINGERTIPS. TRIM THE EXCESS
PASTE FROM THE EDGES AND SMOOTH THE SURFACE
WITH A WET BRUSH. FORM A SMALL STEM WITH THE
PASTE AND BOND IT TO THE FILET WITH EGG WHITES.
REFRIGERATE.
1. FINELY GRIND THE NIBS AND ADD THE GREY
GUÉRANDE SALT. BLEND EVERYTHING FOR A FEW 5. COOK UPON ORDER AT 160ºC/320ºF FOR 8 TO
SECONDS. 10 MINUTES. USING A PROBE THERMOMETER, CHECK
3. SPREAD OUT THE DOUGH TO A HEIGHT OF THAT THE TEMPERATURE AT THE CENTER OF THE
2. ADD THE EGG WHITES AND BLEND TO GIVE APPROXIMATELY 3/16 INCH. PLACE THE SEARED, FILET IS 58ºC/136ºF. LET STAND FOR 3-4 MINUTES
THE PASTE A SLIGHTLY ELASTIC TEXTURE. COOLED FILET ON TOP. BEFORE OPENING AND SLICING.
THE DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE
WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH

For the duck stock

4 duck carcasses without the feet or giblets • 3 1/2oz carrots •
3 1/2oz onions • 1 garlic head • 1 leek (green part) • 3 sprigs The duck jus with chocolate
flat parsley • 1 bay leaf • 2 sprigs thyme • Black peppercorns • 2 1/8 cups duck stock reduction • 2 3/4oz Araguani couverture 3 nice carrots • 3 Daikon radishes • 3 zucchini • 20 yellow
Grapeseed oil • 1 bottle red wine, syrah type • 1qt water 72% • Salt and freshly ground pepper pattypan squashes • Fresh butter • Vegetable stock
201

Cut the carcasses into large pieces. When the jus is sufficiently reduced, make
Wash and peel the vegetables. Coarsely chop. an emulsion with the chopped or melted couverture
Heat a Dutch oven and sear the carcasses in oil. When and a small amount of very hot jus.
they are well roasted, add the coarsely chopped The emulsion is finished when it acquires a perfect
vegetables and unpeeled garlic cloves. luster.
Cook until it has a nice color and add the red wine. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
Bring to a boil and skim the fat a first time.
Add the aromatics (herb sprigs, pepper…), simmer for
approximately 1 hour, and add the water.
Simmer on very low heat for 18 to 24 hours.
Skim the foam and fat regularly. 6
When sufficiently reduced, let stand for 30 minutes
and strain through an etamine chinois. Wash and peel all of the vegetables except
Cool immediately over ice and refrigerate. for the pattypan squash.
Using a peeler, cut strips, not too wide, of the carrots,
radishes and zucchini.
To do this, hold the vegetables and turn them
gradually in your hand.
Boil the pattypan squash in salted water until just
tender.
Heat the butter and vegetable stock in a sauté pan,
add the vegetable tagliatelle and the pattypan squash
and stir over high heat to glaze the vegetables without
breaking the tagliatelle. Salt and pepper to taste.
TO SERVE Keep hot.
Place the duck “pods” in the oven, preheated to 160ºC/320ºF and cook for between 13 and
17 minutes, depending on the thickness of the filets.
Check the temperature while cooking using a probe thermometer. Do not exceed a temperature
of 50ºC/122ºF at the center.
Meanwhile, reheat the vegetables and check the emulsion of the duck jus with chocolate.
Arrange the vegetables onto the plate in an aesthetically pleasing way.
Carefully open the “pods” with the tip of a knife. Slice the filets thinly.
Place a few slices over the vegetables and leave the rest in the “pods”, presented as such at the table.
The slicing can be done directly at the table as well, for an even greater surprise.

6. AFTER BLANCHING THE PATTYPAN SQUASH, SAUTÉ

THEM IN BUTTER WITH THE TAGLIATELLE OF ZUCCHINI,
DAIKON RADISHES AND CARROTS.
202
 203

FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR

PORK, SWEET AND SOUR ROAST
PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASALA
CHOCOLATE SAUCE,
A FEW BEAN SPROUTS
This is a well-known meat in western kitchens. Retraction, milky juices, a consistency that
When we talk of farmed pork, which is what is more or less firm, a meat that is more or less
we are able to find here, we have to know what “moist”, a varying coloration in the pan. So many

FOR 8-10 ADVENTURERS

we are talking about. Being “organic farmed difficult things to try and guess while it sits
pork” does not necessarily make it better. When locked away under the plastic packaging
a product is “organic” it just means that it has at the store. The moment of truth arrives: tasting,
been raised or grown according to its natural with eyes closed, I am convinced that when
rhythm, with certain qualities and sometimes things follow their natural rhythm and are given
certain faults, something that the consumer has time to develop, the product is superior. One
a tendency to misunderstand. of the main differences is the texture of the three
I found myself in front of the meat counter filets after we gently boiled them for 45 minutes:
in the supermarket: at the time we were it ranged from the most tender to the most dry.
preparing these dishes, my friend Sylvain As far as flavor is concerned, though less
the butcher was on vacation! noticeable, the differences are also quite evident.
In France, the range of pork that is offered I’d like to find out the actual differences in these
is divided into three qualities: “first prize”, three meats. I’ll investigate and get to the bottom
farmed and organic farmed. The latter two of this… inspector!
appealed to me instantly after seeing the price This is the sweet and sour version with garam
of the first (I wondered how these farmers masala and roasted Victoria pineapples. I found
managed to survive, yet I can’t say I was overly that these accompaniments enrich the flavors
concerned for them). The difference in color and textures and, with pork of this kind, make
among the three should give us the clues needed the meat stand out at every turn.
to make the right choice, price notwithstanding. The chocolate easily found its way into this dish,
I finally decided to try all three, “just to see” which has pastry-like qualities in so far as its
as I said to Rika. Simply touching them is contrasts are subtle and sweet.
enough to notice a difference.
 PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE

42oz pork tenderloin • 2 ripe Victoria pineapples • Sesame oil • Sugar • 5 1/3oz chopped onions • 1qt veal fond blanc • Garam masala* • 3 1/2oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 1oz Jivara milk chocolate
40% • 14oz bean sprouts • Fresh ginger • Soy sauce • Salt and freshly ground pepper
204

2 3

* Traditional spice mix from Northern India comprised

of cinnamon stick, clove, cardamom, cilantro, peppercorns
and cumin. It is often sold as a prepackaged blend and
can be found in many western supermarkets.

1. PEEL THE PINEAPPLES. REMOVE THE DARK SPOTS

WITH A SHARP KNIFE TIP. CUT INTO QUARTERS.

2. SAUTÉ ON LOW HEAT WITH SESAME OIL. 3. EMULSIFY THE SAUCE WITH THE CHOCOLATE BY BOILING GENTLY.
 205

Peel the pineapples and remove the dark spots with a

sharp paring knife.
Cut into quarters, lengthwise. Remove the hard center
and reserve for later, cut the rest into slices 2/3 inch
thick. Combine the centers and the remaining
pineapple and liquefy to make a fresh pineapple juice
that we will use in the sauce preparation. 5
Caramelize the pineapple slices in a pan with
the sesame oil and a pinch of sugar. recuperate the juices by deglazing with the liquefied uniform texture.
Set aside. pineapple juice. Cook the filets until just pink. Place the filets in the sauce and simmer for
Brown the onions and deglaze with the veal stock. When the stock is reduced and well perfumed, approximately 15 to 20 minutes.
Add the garam masala to taste and reduce by about withdraw a small part to emulsify with the chocolate. Sauté the bean sprouts on very high heat, in a wok or
half. Combine with the rest of the sauce and blend with a frying pan, with the sesame oil and spices. Set aside.
Sear the filets in oil, salt and pepper them and handheld blender for a few seconds to give it a velvety, Cut the filets just before serving. Keep the sauce hot.

TO SERVE
Just before serving time, skewer the slices of filet and caramelized
pineapple onto bamboo skewers.
Arrange a bed of wok-fried bean sprouts onto the plates and top with
the brochettes. Copiously coat with the sauce and serve immediately.
Do not hesitate to furnish a sauceboat with this dish, as the sauce
is usually very well received.
For accompaniment: “fegh” style, steamed Basmati rice goes perfectly.
A magnificent voyage in which everything combines and harmonizes
together seamlessly. Enjoy!
4. COOK THE FILETS UNTIL JUST PINK. 5. BROCHETTE ASSEMBLY.
206
 207

SYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORK

KNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATE
AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES
We are usually more accustomed to seeing go virtually untouched these days.”
it in conical form, topped with a small As luck would have it, the pig was hanging fresh,
protruding bone. But how would the pig have and Sylvain asked, “where should I cut your

FOR 8-10 ENTHUSIASTS OF PORK KNUCKLE AND THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE
been able to walk with that under its legs? pork knuckles? Do you want them here? Or here,
This is actually a bit of mise en scène, and not very a bit higher up?”
faithful at that—that’s the most we can say I’ll spare you the rib episode, another great
about it. moment!
A pork knuckle actually has nothing close to this I went to pay, but he responded, “are you
shape, and this size even less so, unless we are serious? Paying for a dog’s meat? I’ll see you later,
talking about a 3 month old piglet. Fred,” he said. And here we were, on our way
It is these pork knuckles that give Sylvain back with Sébastien, our hearts lightened with
Vergnes, my friend in gastronomy and otherwise, these wonderful slices of life.
a perpetual migraine. He is the butcher in Our pork knuckles would then simply have
Tournon-sur-Rhone, and they don’t make them the shape that Mother Nature gave them.
like him anymore. He is a purist—passionate, Plump, generous, and, most importantly,
creative, generous, and, despite being over fifty, wrapped in their skin, which would become
his eyes light up when he speaks of his job, one of the best parts—even if it has (alas)
his life. He is one of those charcutiers who disappeared from today’s knuckles, sold trimmed
receives whole pigs at the door, only to transform and with the fat removed, as Sylvain explained
them into dozens of preparations made to us. I decided to embark on an adventure
magnificent by his hands to be presented to prepare it. I love grains: oats, wheat,
at the counter. bulgur, etc.
Sausages, hams, godiveaux (forcemeat) from We were returning, Sébastien and I, this past
l’Ardèche, his native land, galantines, their jelly July, from Lemps, a small village close to mine.
deliciously tender and amber-colored, I actually lived there in a beautiful, very small
and many others. and very old house. Renier, Marion and Youri
It is at Sylvain’s, by the way, that I bought Lasance also live near there. They make Picodon
the pork knuckles and plates of spare ribs. cheeses—we’ll get back to them later—and there
It would take way too long, funny as it may be, is also an Ardèche guinea fowl farm.
to recount Sylvain’s one man show as soon I had an appointment to chose a “Cannes
as I started talking to him about those cuts festival” type guinea fowl, worthy of posing
“made for dogs today—have you seen clients for our photo. On the way back to Sécheras,
that actually want them these days?” Evidently my village, the wheat fields, shimmering gold
not, when one sees those who write books… in color, made me stop the car. Sébastien
they tell them, “buy 6 côtes de boeuf, or 6 hastened to pick a few ears and took advantage
tournedos, 3 filets mignons, or a bavette…” of the occasion to run towards a fresh hay bale
What do these cooks do with the rest to take a handful. With the pork knuckles asleep
of the animal? Do theirs only have these cuts? in the fridge, the wheat and the hay wonderfully
“Fred, here are some delicious pieces, but they fragrant, I began to cook… in the car!
 PREPARATION OF THE DISH

4 butcher’s pork knuckles in brine • 20 very dry ears of wheat • 1 bunch very dry hay • 3 1/2oz toasted spelt wheat • 2 red onions • 8 large shallots • 3 carrots cut into segments • 1/2 celeriac, cubed •
4 gold or jaune boule d’or turnips, halved • 4 leeks (white part only), halved • 8 small Charlotte potatoes • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • 1 1/2 to 2qt veal stock • Salt and freshly ground pepper •
7-8 3/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70%
208

This dish is extremely easy to make, and thus retains It is important to skim as many times as necessary
its origins well. as we will be using the juices, just as they are,
Wrap each pork knuckle in gauze or a cotton cloth to finish the dish.
and tie with string to close. This way the meat will Remove the pork knuckles and reduce the stock until
retain its shape and not come undone. the flavor is sufficiently strong, but not overly
Place in a large pot and cover with water. so because the flavors of gelatin and skin would be
2
Heat slowly. The preparation should only simmer, too pronounced.
never boil, for between 2 1/2 to 3 hours depending Set aside a small part of the perfumed juices
on the meat. When the pork knuckles are soft to emulsify with the chocolate.
to the touch, remove and drain. Blend for a few seconds to ensure a perfect, creamy
Cover the bottom of a Dutch oven with the hay. sauce. Return to the Dutch oven with the pork
Distribute the ears of wheat and wheat spelt evenly knuckles, without the gauze or cloth, and boil lightly
and top with the pork knuckles. for 20 minutes while regularly basting the meat with
Surround with all the vegetables, add the white wine sauce so that it forms a kind of lacquer and does not
and cover with the veal stock. dry out. Salt if necessary, an unlikely event, and season
Start to cook. with pepper.

1. WRAP THE PORK KNUCKLES IN A COTTON CLOTH

AND TIE THEM CLOSED.

2. RINSE THE HAY WITH WATER AND PLACE AT

THE BASE OF A DUTCH OVEN. PUT THE PORK
KNUCKLES ON TOP FOLLOWED BY THE VEGETABLES, 3. SKIM DURING THE PREPARATION EVERY 15-20 MINUTES. REMOVE THE CLOTH FROM THE PORK KNUCKLE
GRILLED EARS OF WHEAT AND TOASTED SPELT WHEAT. AND SET ASIDE. TAKE OUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF STOCK TO THICKEN WITH THE CHOCOLATE. RETURN THE PORK
COVER WITH WATER AND SEASON. COOK VERY SLOWLY KNUCKLE TO THE DUTCH OVEN AND COVER WITH THE CHOCOLATE-STOCK EMULSION. BOIL LIGHTLY UNTIL
FOR 2 1/2 TO 3 HOURS. THE STOCK ACQUIRES AN UNCTUOUS CONSISTENCY.
 209

TO SERVE
The chef’s work is practically done now, but not the maître d’s! The Dutch oven preparation is always highly
appreciated by the client. It is reassuring in the sense that we have the feeling they cooked it specifically for us!
Halve and de-bone the pork knuckles while still “trembling” and releasing the aromas of the chocolate fondant.
Place at the center of the plate and surround with the vegetables in a harmonious way.
For sensory pleasure, cover with the almost mahogany sauce and decorate by opposing two ears of wheat on each
plate and crown with a few blades of hay for a fun touch.
Upon arrival of the dish or Dutch oven, everyone is dumbfounded. The aroma of this dish is disconcerting,
and surprises the guests. Questions are asked! They all qualify it in their own words but everyone unknowingly
recognizes the flavor of the hay since it is such a familiar smell.
A nostalgic moment filled with memories of childhood: the hot chocolate, the wheat flakes with milk, the crepes…
this dish always triggers memories of that sort for me… and you?
210

SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL

ROASTED ON THE BONE,
SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE,
PUFF PASTRY
AND BRAISED ENDIVES
RECIPE FOR 8-10 VISITORS, WITH BRESSOPHILE TENDENCIES

Of all of the regions in France, there are a few devoid of extra muscles, and therefore soft.
—rare ones at that—that we know well without But it would seem that people like it!
being particularly good at geography… which Unlike its friend, the capon, the Bresse squab
is my case! Without ever having gone there, does not see spruce. Its meat is a light carmine
we nonetheless have the impression, through color, its succulent flavor beyond words—in
its inhabitants, of knowing the region by heart. short, a delight.
When a gourmet thinks of Bresse, it is not This recipe gives the squab a delicious flavor.
the beautiful half-timbered houses or the Cooked on the bone, it is firm but very flavorful.
wonderfully perfect red brick and golden stone The mild bitterness of the endives, sweetened by
architecture that come to mind, but other things the creamy sauce—and, yes, we are in Bresse—
altogether… thickened with chocolate just before serving,
Capon, poularde, squab, chicken, duck, it is simply divine.
mallard… these often constitute the “geographic” A wonderful classic that has hardly been
vocabulary and knowledge of a gourmet as soon revisited.
as someone mentions Bresse. Here, we are speaking not of extravagant flavors,
I was of course forgetting Georges Blanc and but rather well of a dish inspired by what
his sons, at the helm of their magnificent Auguste Escoffier could make at the super
restaurant, a temple of everything beautiful famous Savoy hotel in London, where he
and good. We sometimes hear jokingly, “Bresse presided over the kitchens.
is near Blanc, right?” I actually had the wonderful opportunity to cook
The meat of these birds is remarkable. It is tasty at HIS burners, still in service, and to present my
and just firm to the bite. One must be chocolate cuisine to curious Londoners during a
a “bressophile*” to appreciate the texture, gala dinner.
so different from that of their farm-raised
cousins. Immobilized, allowed to eat only grains,
only to die without having seen the light of day, * Another word I have invented that is not yet in
it is logical that their meat would be white, the dictionary…
211
 THE BRAISED ENDIVES THE PUFF PASTRY BASES

15 endives • Fresh butter • 5 1/3oz carrots in brunoise •

3 1/2oz sliced onion • 1qt brown duck stock • 2/3 cup semi-
sweet white wine • Fine salt and freshly ground pepper 2 1/5 lbs puff pastry dough (See page 284) • Egg wash
212

1 3 4

Wash and halve the endives.

In a frying pan, sauté the endives until nicely brown,
add the vegetables, season and simmer for a few 5
minutes.
Deglaze with the white wine then add the brown duck Prepare homemade puff pastry dough or buy pre- For greater ease, freeze them all, or, time not
stock. Simmer on low heat or in the oven. Adjust prepared dough in sheets, making sure it was made permitting, refrigerate well.
the seasoning. with butter. With a thin, sharp knife cut into slices approximately
Keep hot for service or refrigerate for the mise en place. Roll out the very cold dough to a thickness 3/16 inch thick.
of 1/8 inch. Place the slices flat onto baking paper and bake at
Stretch the dough out to a sufficient size in order to be 180ºC/356ºF.
able to cut 4 strips 8 inches long and 3 1/8 inches It is interesting to watch how the dough sheets
wide. develop when baked sideways, instead of upright.
Brush the strips moderately with egg and stack them These puff pastry bases are a classic among tea pastries
on top of each other. Refrigerate for approximately in France. They are traditionally baked until well
30 minutes and brush the top surface of the dough brown, glazed with sugar in a hot oven and stuck
“bar” before cutting in half. together with a raspberry compote, known among
Stack again to obtain 8 layers of dough. pastry chefs as “framboise pépins” (raspberry nuggets).
These sandwiches have a very gourmand allure to
them, something that reminds me of my apprentice
3. STACK SEVERAL LAYERS OF PUFF PASTRY DOUGH, days spent at Auer, in Nice.
1/8 INCH THICK, ON TOP OF EACH OTHER, BRUSHING
EACH SHEET MODERATELY WITH EGG BEFORE
TOPPING WITH ANOTHER SHEET. ONCE THE 8 LAYERS
ARE STACKED, REFRIGERATE BEFORE CUTTING.
1. BRAISE THE ENDIVES ON LOW HEAT TO COLOR THEM
SLOWLY SO THEY REMAIN VERY FLAVORFUL. 4. THE PUFF PASTRY DOUGH “BAR” IS REFRIGERATED.
CUT INTO SLICES OF APPROXIMATELY 3/16 INCH THICK 5. BAKE WITHOUT BRUSHING IN A HOT OVEN AT
2. BRAISED ENDIVES. AND PLACE THEM FLAT ON A NON-STICK TRAY. 200-210ºC/392-410ºF UNTIL GOLDEN BROWN.
AND NOW FOR THE SQUAB SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE

1 cup squab stock (See page 284) • 2 tbsp whipping cream •

1 1/4oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Salt and freshly ground
5 beautiful Bresse squab • Butter • Oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper pepper
213

Combine the cream with the squab stock and boil.

Emulsify the chocolate with a small part of the mixture
first, then add in the rest. Reduce for a few moments,
if necessary, and adjust the seasoning.
The sauce should be velvety but not overly thick.
Keep in the bain-marie until service.

6 8

Sear only on the skin side of the breasts,

not too much, not too little.
Set aside to finish upon order.
For the legs, de-bone all but the drumstick.
Season and roll up the meat from the thighs,
then wrap with plastic wrap and tie firmly. Cook
for a few minutes in gently boiling water. Let cool,
remove the plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Season and bake at 150ºC/302ºF for approximately
15 to 20 minutes.
7 Upon order, about thirty minutes before serving,
roast the seared squab breasts in the oven
Run the squabs over a flame to eliminate any feathers at 150ºC/302ºF.
or fuzz that still remain. For perfect doneness, using a thermometer check that
De-bone to remove only the legs and, with a sharp the temperature at the center reaches a maximum
blade, make 3 or 4 incisions in each breast. of 50-52ºC/122-126ºF. Sear the poached legs until
Refrigerate the legs. golden brown.
In a very hot pan, sear the very cold squabs in butter Remove from the oven, wait 4 or 5 minutes and
and oil until beautifully golden. delicately separate the breasts. Serve immediately.

TO SERVE
Arrange a bed of braised endives onto hot plates.
Add a puff pastry base and top with the pink breasts
and roasted legs. Decorate the plate with a few ribbons
of squab-chocolate sauce and accompany with
a sauceboat for the diner as well.
“Enkelt & Perfekt”, or rather “Simple & Perfect”,
as my loyal friend Eyvind Hellstrøm would say, chef
of one of the best restaurants in Scandinavia, as well
as the most famous, Bagatelle in Oslo.
Enkelt & Perfekt is the title of one of his culinary
works, a great success of simplicity!
6. AFTER PASSING THE SQUABS OVER A FLAME,
REMOVE THE LEGS AND MAKE 3 OR 4 INCISIONS IN
EACH BREAST. 8. DE-BONE THE LEGS BUT LEAVE THE DRUMSTICK.
SEASON AND ROLL UP THE MEAT FROM THE THIGHS,
7. SEAR THE SQUAB BREASTS ON HIGH HEAT AND THEN WRAP WITH PLASTIC WRAP AND TIE FIRMLY.
BAKE AT 150ºC/302ºF UNTIL THE INNER TEMPERATURE COOK FOR A FEW MINUTES IN GENTLY BOILING WATER.
IS 50-52ºC/122-126ºF. THE MEAT SHOULD BE LET COOL, REMOVE THE PLASTIC WRAP AND
PERFECTLY ROSE COLORED AND COOKED. REFRIGERATE.
214

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED

THIS RECIPE HAS BEEN CALCULATED TO SERVE

WITH APRICOTS AND

PISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE
8-10 DINNER GUESTS

ALMOST BÉARNAISE
Clearly, the “duck” family has inspired us! of canette, enhanced by an amazing sauce:
Is it because of its good cholesterol? a chocolate almost-béarnaise.
It is simply because of the elegant flavors it offers I am very sensitive about the balance of this dish.
in its different congeners. Despite the very noticeable flavor contrasts, they
Whether in game birds or fowl, their very varied are all in half-tones and complement each other
realms of life have a direct and remarkable effect marvelously. The sweet and sour notes evoke
on their meat and their flavor. duck a l’orange.
With a texture that is a bit more tender and A presentation that is not only aesthetic and
supple than that of a fleshier duck, the canette* original, but also one that permits structured
invites delicacy. and delightful tasting.
This recipe allows us to discover the sweetness

* Translator’s note: canette is a young female duck.

215
 CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS ROASTED CANETTE FILETS

10 dry cannelloni • 10 1/2oz fresh Bergeron apricots • 1 3/4oz dried apricots • 2 tbsp sugar • 2 tbsp sherry vinegar • Salt and
freshly ground pepper • Ground pistachios • 2 canette legs • Cooking oil 5 canette filets • Oil • Salt and freshly ground pepper
216

With the tip of a very sharp knife, score the skin

of the filets in a grid pattern.
Set aside for preparation until just before serving.

1 2

First, braise the canette legs in a Dutch oven.

Sear over high heat with a little oil, add salt and
pepper and cover with water.
Cook for approximately 1 hour, covered on low heat.
Add more water if necessary. Cool and shred the meat
while removing any cartilage, small bones or pieces
of fat. Set aside.
Wash and pit the fresh apricots. Cut the fresh
and dried apricots into small pieces.
In a pan, cook the sugar by itself until just golden
and deglaze with the vinegar. Add the fruits and
simmer for a few minutes until it acquires the texture
of compote, remove from heat and let cool.
Mix together the ground pistachios and canette meat,
followed by the cooled fruit compote. Season.
Cook the cannelloni “al dente” in salted water. Drain
correctly and, using a pastry bag, fill them with
the sweet and sour apricot compote. Cover with
plastic wrap and refrigerate.
4 Reheat before serving.

1. PREPARE THE FILLING FOR THE CANNELLONI BY

MIXING THE DUCK MEAT WITH THE GROUND
PISTACHIOS.
3. FILL THE CANNELLONI USING A PASTRY BAG.
2. ADD THE SWEET AND SOUR COMPOTE OF FRESH
AND DRIED APRICOTS. SEASON. 4. KEEP THE ENDS OF THE CANNELLONI CLEAN.
LIKE A BÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE TENDER GREEN PEAS

2oz shallots • 3/4 cup apricot vinegar • 7/8 cup 20 yr tawny Port • 1/6oz Sarawak pepper • 7oz duck stock • 1/5 cup whipping 7oz shucked green peas • 1 lump butter • 2/5 cup vegetable
cream • 1 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 3/4oz egg yolks • Salt and freshly ground pepper stock • Salt and freshly ground pepper
217

Boil the peas in salted water.

Cool them in cold water and peel.
Heat the butter and vegetable stock in a pan and
add the peas.
Let simmer until a glaze forms.
Adjust the seasoning.
Keep hot until serving.

5 7

6 8

Cook the chopped shallots with the vinegar, port serving the sauce.
and pepper. Add the egg yolks to the liquid, which should not be
Reduce slowly and strain through a chinois to obtain too hot (60ºC/140ºF max) and whisk vigorously
5 1/3oz of liquid. Add the duck stock and reduce on low heat or in a bain-marie until the texture
again for about 5 minutes. becomes creamy and supple. Follow by thickening
Meanwhile, melt the couverture and pour in the with the hot Araguani ganache.
boiled cream. Emulsify correctly and keep hot until Adjust seasoning and serve immediately.

TO SERVE
Cut the cannelloni into thirds and reheat in a
microwave or couscoussier.
Sear and cook the canette filets until pink inside.
With a probe thermometer, check that the inner
temperature is 50ºC/122ºF.
Let the meat stand for a few moments before thinly
slicing.
Wrap each cannelloni piece with a pink slice of duck
7. WHEN THE MIXTURE BEGINS TO THICKEN AND and pierce with a small wooden skewer.
5. PREPARE THE REDUCTION FOR THE BÉARNAISE REACHES 79-82ºC/174-180ºF ON THE THERMOMETER,
SAUCE WITH CHOCOLATE, SHALLOTS, PEPPER AND WHISK VIGOROUSLY FOR A PERFECTLY COAGULATED, Assemble 3 cannelloni segments on the plate, serve
PORT. UNIFORM MIXTURE.
with the béarnaise sauce and 2 or 3 spoonfuls
6. STRAIN THE REDUCTION THROUGH A CHINOIS 8. ADD THE MELTED CHOCOLATE AND CONTINUE
AND ADD THE COLD EGG YOLKS. BEGIN COOKING WHISKING. SERVE IMMEDIATELY, CREAMY AND of buttered peas.
ON LOW HEAT. SUPPLE.
218

BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE

RIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE
WITH MEXICAN COFFEE,
CARROT JULIENNE
WITH CARDAMOM
This is a cut of the animal I didn’t know before. square meat, and what’s more, skewered end
If I hadn’t visited Quebec, I would never have to end by this bone, so geometrically smooth
discovered it, much less conceived of this dish. and flat?
FOR 8-10 ROOMMATES

I went to eat at Léméac, a charming brasserie Marc, help me understand this, please! “You’ve
with very contemporary décor, along with Marc never seen this?” he said.
Decank, a chef and friend who, upon arriving As it happens, it was nothing complicated in
from his native Belgium, created La Chronique and of itself. They were flat cut ribs, braised a bit
in Montreal, today one of the city’s very sought like pot au feu. “It’s very good, and just a little
after restaurants. bit gelatinous,” said Olivier, his assistant and
It is Marc, incidentally, who opened his heart son-in-law, a charming guy and also a wonderful
and his kitchen, in which I, with the help of his chef. In Quebec, they make pork spare ribs
wonderful team, prepared a four-dinner lacquered in maple syrup: c’est s’pâer!
chocolate adventure he wanted to offer his Actually, it all happens by itself, Marc tells me.
clients. You ask the butcher to cut the bones very cleanly.
A complete success: we were fully booked each You trim the meat to square it off nicely and strip
time before I arrived. I was very stressed, but the ends of the bones. You clean the bones well
happy. by scraping them… and brown the tops well.
At Léméac, then, when Marc told me “I’ll order You then simmer for two hours, no stress…
this for you,” I went along with it. that’s Marc’s character. And you finish it however
Expectant, I saw my plate arrived with beautiful you like: glazed with juice, wine, or why not
presentation, but this very unusual looking meat chocolate?
that reminded me of Aztec sculptures. I’d never That’s it, once again an idea is born.
seen this in my life! The experiments begin—I had dreamt of
Close up, these spare ribs spoke even louder a coffee dish, and here it is.
to me. How did they produce this completely
219
 PREPARATION OF THE SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK THE CARROT JULIENNE

17 1/2oz julienned carrots • 10 chives (white part) • Butter

Slab of 8-10 beef spare ribs, crosscut • 2 marrowbones • 1 chopped onion • 2 coarsely chopped carrots • 1 leek (green part) • • Vegetable stock or water • Cardamom seeds • Salt and
2 coarsely chopped turnips • 1 bottle Corona beer • Salt and black peppercorns freshly ground pepper
220

1 2 4

In a pan, sweat the carrots, chives and cardamom

in butter and vegetable stock.
Cover with a little stock, or water in its absence,
stir constantly on high heat to evaporate the liquid
and glaze the carrots.
When finished, the carrots should be lightly
“al dente”. Keep hot.

Cut 10 spare ribs, or ask the butcher to do it. Remove the meat and marrowbones. Set aside until
Then follow Marc’s instructions on the previous page. just before serving.
In a large pot, combine the rest of the ingredients, Strain the stock and slowly reduce by half.
place the seared ribs on top and cover with water. Set the beef stock aside for use with the chocolate-
Plug the orifices of the marrowbones with thick carrot coffee sauce.
slices, on both sides, and tie them.
Cook slowly for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, more or less.
Skim the fat from time to time while cooking. You can opt to cook the ribs in the stock beforehand
The meat should be soft to the touch and shrinking and finish their preparation in the sauce for each
on the bone. service.

1. SEAR THE SLAB OF RIBS ON BOTH SIDES.

3. COOK THE RIBS SLOWLY IN THE GENTLY BOILING
2. PREPARE THE RIBS AND TIE THEM. STOCK. 4. JULIENNED CARROTS “AL DENTE”.
THE CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE

2 1/8 cups beef stock • 1 1/4oz coarsely ground coffee beans • 1 pico de pájaro pepper • Bone marrow • 1 3/8 tbsp molasses • 1 orange zest • Cardamom seeds • 2 3/4oz Xocopili chocolate
221

Heat the reduced beef stock to just before boiling. for a perfectly smooth sauce.
6 Add the coffee, cardamom and pepper, stir and infuse Pour over the ribs and cook on very low heat for
while covered for 5 to 6 minutes. 20 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Strain through an etamine chinois. Baste the ribs to avoid drying, and above all so they
Add the molasses and bone marrow. end up caramelized.
Blend for a few seconds with the handheld blender

TO SERVE
Elegantly arrange the julienned carrots on hot plates, top with the ribs and
cover with the chocolate and coffee sauce. A distinct air of Mexico suddenly
permeates the house!

5. ADD THE GROUND COFFEE AND INFUSE FOR A FEW

MOMENTS BEFORE STRAINING THROUGH AN ETAMINE
CHINOIS.

6. BEGIN THE CHOCOLATE EMULSION WITH THE

COFFEE STOCK.

7. WHISK VIGOROUSLY FOR AN ELASTIC, LUSTROUS 8. POUR THE COFFEE SAUCE OVER THE RIBS AND
TEXTURE. SIMMER VERY GENTLY.
222

ADAPTATION OF HARE
À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN
PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED
WITH CHOCOLATE, BRAISED
CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH
AND WILD MUSHROOMS
FOR 8-10 LOVERS OF TRADITION

I couldn’t write a book on chocolate cuisine only what seemed to be the best. These are all
without paying my dues to “our fathers, of the reasons for which I kept my eyes fixated
the pioneers of French cuisine.” on the Larousse Gastronomique, the gourmet
A rather audacious challenge for me, given that bible, and for which I scrupulously followed
I’m not a savory chef, or if I am it is more the recipe on page 619 of my Larousse (1996
as a passion than a profession. I would only edition).
know how to risk stopping just short, with However, you will forgive me, Mr. Robuchon,
foundations that are only half right, after much for having the audacity, maybe, to add chocolate
procrastination. For example: “so what are we to a recipe that didn’t originally have it.
going to make?” I admit having slightly “fused” certain recipes,
After much reading, I decided to trust in the inspired nonetheless by the same game and seen
talent of Joël Robuchon, also one of the fathers by various great chefs. This recipe is the “hare
of good eating, French style. I admit his recipe royale of senator Couteau, Poitevine style.” It was
spoke to me on multiple levels. the first time I embarked on a dish of this type,
First, the idea of small parcels after cooking quite elaborate with very well established rules.
really appealed to me; the sauce preparation In the end, it is not so difficult; but certainly,
seemed equally remarkable, with a richness when these little parcels arrive at the table, still
that would delight Escoffier or Carême; and marked by the string, all lacquered with purple
I’m convinced, ultimately, that with his ethics sauce and releasing such complex yet easy
of camaraderie and extreme perfectionism, to grasp aromas, I tell myself it won’t be the last
he sorted through all of his experiments and kept time I make it… Royale!
223
 PREPARING THE HARE À LA ROYALE

1 good young hare (3-6 months) • 17 1/2oz pork caul • 10 slices pork fat • 3 bottles red wine • 10 peeled garlic cloves • 1 large carrot, coarsely chopped • 1 large onion, chopped • 2/5 cup good cognac
• 10 peeled shallots • 6 juniper berries • 4 pinches wild thyme • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 1 bunch aromatic herbs • 2 2/3 tbsp whipping cream • 4 2/5oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • Celeriac •
Fresh spinach • Wild mushrooms
224

1 4 5

3 6

1. COVER EACH PIECE OF HARE WITH A SLICE OF PORK 4. ADD THE SKIMMED COOKING JUICES.
FAT, WRAP IN A PIECE OF CAUL AND TIE.
5. HEAT OVER LOW HEAT TO COAGULATE THE BLOOD
2. BRAISED HARE À LA ROYALE. AND FOLLOW WITH A GRADUAL DECANTATION OF THE
PREPARATION.
3. BLEND TOGETHER THE LIVERS, KIDNEYS, HEART,
SHALLOTS AND GARLIC UNTIL YOU HAVE A 6. REMOVE THE JUS AND STRAIN THROUGH AN
HOMOGENOUS PUREE. REFRIGERATE. ETAMINE.
 225

Soak the caul.

Pour the red wine into a large pot, boil, flambé and set
aside.
In a food processor, finely blend 5 garlic cloves,
the shallots, and the liver, heart and kidneys
of the hare.
Refrigerate this “puree” in a sealed container.
Grind the juniper berries.
Season the morsels of hare with the salt, pepper,
thyme and juniper.
Wrap each morsel with a thin slice of pork fat and 8
a piece of caul and tie them.
In a large pot, combine the coarsely chopped onions another pot with the shallots and garlic. Strain Repeat the operation and combine everything
and carrots, the aromatic herbs, the shallots and the the liquid through a chinois and press firmly to extract in the pot with the jus.
5 remaining garlic cloves. the maximum amount of juices, a great source Cook on low heat for approximately 1 hour, and strain
Top with the tied hare morsels, cover with the cooled of flavor! through a chinois. Reduce this liquid to about
red wine and lightly season. Place gauze on the surface of the liquid and cool 2-2 1/2 cups. When it acquires the correct consistency
Cover and bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF for precisely quickly over ice or in the cold storage room. and flavor, add the cognac.
6 hours… and yes, it’s worth the wait. Season. The gauze allows for easy removal of the fat. Add the whipping cream and emulsify with
Afterwards, and as soon as possible, remove the largest Put the “puree” of hare offal with shallots and garlic the chocolate.
bones from the morsels of hare. Remove the shallots in a salad bowl. Salt to taste and pour over the hare. Cook on low heat
and garlic cloves from the sauce. Add a small amount of the skimmed jus and blend for about 10 minutes so that the sauce envelops
Place the pannequets, or stuffed “crêpes” of hare in with a handheld blender. the meat.

TO SERVE
Traditionally, this dish is served “à l’anglaise”, or directly at the table.
It’s up to you. Each morsel of hare is placed onto a braised celery disc,
surrounded by lightly sautéed seasonal mushrooms and fresh spinach
leaves.
Voilà, a dish made as an homage to our culinary heritage: savor it
with respect!

7. TO ENHANCE OUR DISH, A FEW DISCS OF BRAISED 8. …A FEW SEASONAL MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTER
CELERIAC AND… WITH FRESH SPINACH LEAVES.
226
 227

STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT

TRUFFLED WITH CACAO NIBS,
CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND
ROSEMARY RABBIT JUS

FOR 8-10 ENTHUSIASTS OF RABBIT AND OTHER DELICACIES

EMUSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATE
Farming of this leporide began in the 17th “yes!”. Bone in hand, Sébastien was happy,
century. Its meat is a tender pink, and white after one could say almost proud, and with reason.
cooking. Like riding a bike or swimming, this is
It is its low fat content that makes it go so well something you don’t forget. As for me, I mused
with chocolate. with him on different ways to prepare this very
I really like rabbit, but it is a rarity at my table appetizing meat. We were tempted by truffles,
for some reason. but we had already used them… so why not,
My desire was so great that I couldn’t resist we thought, truffled with cacao beans!
imagining it with chocolate. Sébastien and I have That was the first idea; the second, a good jus,
called it “dressed in chocolate”, but its light maybe a sort of rabbit base demi-glace thickened
and discreet flavor does not do well with such with chocolate? And so the trials began, as usual:
competition in terms of taste. We ended up our little kitchen began bubbling with life.
opting for—and it’s curious given our initial Different types of filling, with or without
ideas—a “prudent” preparation. Sébastien thus chocolate, half and half, we tried everything.
felt sufficiently inspired to attempt a small We would end up with a delicate, soft foie filling,
“technical feat”, or so he said: “it’s been a long truffled with cacao nibs: not too bitter but
time since I tried this.” Here he was, immersing distinctive in flavor.
himself once again in his cookbooks, in my As for the demi-glace, it is emulsified just before
pastry books, to say nothing yet of de-boning. serving with chocolate oil and surrounded
I heard the boning knife being sharpened. “Here with tender, golden Ratte potatoes. In this dish,
we go, I’m getting to it.” Suddenly, I heard loud the chocolate is mild, yet very present and long
cries coming from the kitchen while I prepared on the palate; and it allows our rabbit friend
other recipes in the office. After a few minutes— to “exist” with its delicacy.
short ones, actually—I heard a triumphant
 THE RABBIT AND FILLING

4 saddles of rabbit • 2 rabbit legs • 7oz rabbit liver • 5 2/3oz rabbit meat • 1 3/5oz cacao nibs • 1 sprig rosemary • 5 1/3oz fresh spinach leaves • Salt and pepper
228

1 2 5

Using a boning knife, very delicately de-bone

the saddles, taking care to not cut the skin so that
when cooked they retain a beautiful, round shape.
Reserve the bones for the stock.
Repeat the process for the legs, without the need
for some much precaution.
In a food processor for grinding, coarsely grind
the rabbit livers with the meat, nibs and rosemary.
Season. Quickly blanch the spinach and drain
on paper towels.
Spread the de-boned saddles over plastic. 6
Cover the center with blanched spinach leaves.
Spoon a generous quantity of filling on top. temperature does not exceed a maximum
Add salt and pepper. Roll the saddles so they close of 48-50ºC/118-122ºF. This part of the preparation
completely, wrap them in plastic wrap and tie closed. can be done earlier, for the mise en place.
To maintain the round form, use a bamboo placemat At serving time, sauté the saddles in butter
to roll the saddles, tie as shown in the photograph and oil until they are well browned on the surface and
and cook in gently boiling water for 8 to 10 minutes. hot at the center (check with the probe 58-60ºC/
Using a probe thermometer, make sure the inner 3 136-140ºF).

4. CLOSE WELL.
2. ADD THE FILLING. 5. TIE WITH A STRING.
1. ARRANGE THE SPINACH LEAVES. 3. ROLL. 6. ROASTED SADDLE OF RABBIT.
THE GARNISH RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY

1 3/4 lbs Rattes potatoes • 5 1/3oz snow peas • 10 small peeled Bones of saddle and legs • Olive oil • 1 coarsely chopped carrot • 1 peeled, charred onion • 2 leeks (green part) in slices • 1 celery
shallots • 1 carrot, julienned • Salt and freshly ground pepper • stalk, cubed • 1 small bunch aromatic herbs • 1 sprig rosemary • 1 unpeeled garlic clove • 2 1/8 cups dry white wine • Salt and
2/5 cup vegetable stock • 1 lump butter • Oil freshly ground pepper • KKO oil (See page 284)
229

Cut the rabbit bones as thinly as possible. Strain through a chinois, then a fine etamine.
With a little oil, fry them until they are sufficiently Reduce again until it acquires the syrupy texture
brown. of a demi-glace.
In a pot, combine the vegetables, herbs and bones. Set aside until ready to emulsify with the chocolate oil.
Add about 1/3 of the white wine and sweat for Before serving the jus, blend with a handheld blender
15 minutes. for a few moments to give it a lustrous, velvety texture.
Add the rest of the wine and cover with water. Adjust the seasoning at this time.
Reduce on very low heat for 3 hours, skimming from This jus should not be served too hot, in other words
time to time, when necessary. at a maximum of 50-60ºC/122-140ºF.

Wash the potatoes and scrub them with salt.

Boil them gently in salted water.
Boil the snow peas in salted water until “al dente”,
and drain.
Sauté the potatoes and shallots in clarified butter
and oil.
When they become soft, stop the cooking.
At serving time, place a lump of butter and a little
stock in a frying pan; add the snow peas and the raw,
julienned carrot, which should also remain “al dente”.
For assembly, combine the sautéed potatoes and
shallots with the rest of the vegetables and adjust
the seasoning.

TO SERVE
Both the vegetables and the rabbit demi-glace emulsion with chocolate are hot
(50ºC/122ºF).
Once cooked, cut the saddles into slices approximately 5/8 inch thick.
Elegantly arrange the vegetables on the plate and top with the slices of truffled saddle.
Encircle with a generous ribbon of rabbit sauce with chocolate and rosemary.
It’s good, easy to understand, reassuring but still generous in an unknown, new flavor:
the toasted cacao nibs.
A moment of pure, almost simple pleasure… and of chocolate all the same!
7. SAUTÉED RATTES POTATOES.
232 CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT AND CACAO NIBS,
CURED WITH WHISKY

236 PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OF LEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH
WALNUTS AND SAUTÉED, WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

240 CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORT NUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH
BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE

CHEESES
CHEESES 231
232
 233

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH

DRIED FRUIT AND CACAO NIBS,
CURED WITH WHISKY
If only the old priest Isigny Sainte Mère could I was inspired to create something with this

TO SPOIL 6-8 PEOPLE WITH A CAMEMBERT

speak…Ô Sainte Mère! Virgin Saint – Or rather cheese via a gift that Isabelle and Hubert – more
madame, I should have said, Madame Harel! “foodie” friends of ours who have a corner bistro
It is actually to this woman that we owe in Tournon – had treated Rika and I to. Hubert
the invention of our beloved Camembert. Legend asked me to be free on such and such night,
has it, after giving shelter to this priest, he repaid for something, and so I agreed, though with
her by telling her the secrets of Brie-making some doubt…
which she then guarded well and applied The moment arrived and he opened a cheese
to her own cheeses, thus producing the first, that had been brought from Switzerland, which
and very successful Camembert. had a decidedly appealing allure. It was
Her daughter succeeded her in the nearby town overwhelmingly aromatic, soaked in so much
of Camembert and Napoleon III, during a visit, black truffle it actually dripped. He then
christened the cheese with the name it retains explained the history of this cheese, of which
today, as well as starting it off on a marvelous this recipe is a summary, but in other terms
career! and flavors!
We must also thank Monsieur Ridel, the inventor The principle is simple: transmit
of the small wooden box that allows Camembert the desired flavors through a proper aging
to be shipped. And so the great story begins… process. Here, I substituted the truffle with dried
Artisanal Camemberts have become rather scarce fruit and cacao nibs. The alcohol, which
nowadays, but the large dairies still offer was kept secret along with the recipe
a product of quite acceptable quality. for the Swiss cheese, has become whisky.
It was enough just to see and touch this lovely Being a good Frenchman I couldn’t omit,
Isigny Sainte Mère for me to make the choice. in my bag of ideas, this celebrated cheese from
The rind is beautiful, and the texture and flavor Orne, as famous worldwide as our national flag,
seduced me. or even more so.
 CAMEMBERT DONE DIFFERENTLY

1 beautiful, fresh Camembert • 1 3/4oz golden raisins, chopped • 1 3/4oz tender, dried apricots • 1 1/4oz finely ground cacao nibs • 1oz whole almonds • 1 1/2 fl oz Chivas Regal whisky • Salt and
freshly ground pepper
234

2 3

1. CHOOSE A RAW MILK CAMEMBERT, NOT OVERLY

MATURED, AND HALVE IT SIDEWAYS USING A STRING.

2. TOP THE CENTER WITH THE FILLING OF DRIED

FRUITS AND CACAO NIBS WITH WHISKY. 3. DISTRIBUTE THE FILLING EVENLY.
 235

TO SERVE
Consume with a nice cacao nib bread –why not?– or good rye bread.
Pair it with the same whisky used in the recipe and a bit of ice water, as they do in Scotland, or a vin doux naturel,
or VDN (fortified wine), like aged Maury, or even a Rivesaltes Muscat.
Personally, I prefer the whisky with ice water, like a good Scotsman would: it’s delicious. Yes, quite simply delicious.
For once the fruits that are usually served along side the cheese are actually inside it!

Cut the Camembert using a string.

Mix together all the other ingredients, chopped
or ground. Add the whisky and season.
Cover the Camembert, leaving a 3/16 inch border free
of filling around the perimeter.
Mature the Camembert in the cellar for between
5 to 10 days, depending on the initial maturity
of the cheese.
When the filling starts to overflow and run into
the border, optimal maturity is near.

4. COVER WITH THE OTHER HALF OF THE CAMEMBERT

AND LEAVE TO MATURE IN A CELLAR.
236

PICODON OF REINIER AND

MARION LASANCE OF LEMPS
IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED
WITH WALNUTS AND SAUTÉED,
WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY
FOR 8-10 LOVERS OF GOAT’S CHEESE AND THE ARDÈCHE REGION

HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

The few words that I wanted to write to you here daily certainly seems to be worth the effort.
come to me like a love letter, as I prepare But it is to Marion that we owe these little
to eternalize them on paper… delights, usually sold before she even has
A gastronomic love, most certainly, but a the chance to make them. Their Picodons have
friendship as well, as you will soon understand. received numerous prizes, the most recent
Picodon is a goat cheese. coming from the in Drôme where, in July 2004,
The two regional appellations, Drôme without any illusions about it, she sent off
and Ardèche, where I live, transform it into samples of her cheeses and happened to win first
a star among cheeses at the markets. prize in both “taste” and “appearance” categories.
The maturing process here is a minimum Their cheeses are absolutely magical and, when
of twelve days, whereas the Dieulefit is matured sautéed, the creaminess becomes unbelievably
for an entire month, then washed and macerated similar to that of a crème brûlée.
in white wine. I must confess, Picodon has When I found myself alone in my little house
become my fetish cheese at home… there I would sometimes organize “Picodon
unfortunately not the case for Rika, who doesn’t soirées”, my deep fryer crackling incessantly.
like goat cheese. If you happen to pass through Lemps, please,
When I first came to the region in 1988, take the time to taste them, and fill up the trunk
I worked in Drôme and lived in “butter” while you’re at it! Their house simply exudes
Ardèche, or Northern Ardèche, as opposed goodness.
to Southern Ardèche with its olive trees known As for the dish, well, after much reflection,
as “oil” Ardèche. looking at it from all angles as it were, this is
My neighbors are Dutch, lovely people the result, and this is how I like it.
and always available. Matured for only a few days, encrusted
I began to see them frequently after our with Grenoble walnuts, grilled and stuffed
respectively long days of work. with toasted walnut ganache.
Reinier’s heavy labor load of having to coddle, The “fanciful endives” bring freshness and bitter
walk, milk and take care of his 70 little animals notes that are very pleasant.
237
 THE PREPARED PICODONS

8 to 10 Picodons of Ardèche • 40 whole walnuts • 1/2 cup whipping cream • 3 1/2oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • 2oz whole walnuts, cracked and roasted • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 4 slices cured ham
238

2 3

1. FOR EASIER CUTTING, USE KITCHEN STRING. WRAP

THE STRING AROUND THE CHEESE AND PULL IT TIGHT,
WITHOUT STOPPING. THE CHEESE WILL BE PERFECTLY
CUT IN HALF.

2. ENCRUST BOTH HALVES OF EACH CHEESE WITH

HALVED WALNUTS. FLIP THE CHEESE OVER ON THE
TABLE AND PRESS LIGHTLY WITH THE PALM OF YOUR
HAND SO THAT THE WALNUTS ARE EMBEDDED IN 3. JUST BEFORE SERVING, SEAR THE PICODONS
THE CHEESE. SET ASIDE IN A COOL PLACE BEFORE IN A PAN ON LOW HEAT UNTIL THEY BROWN AND FORM
SAUTÉING. A CRISPY CRUST.
 239

TO SERVE
Separate a few endive leaves and cut them lengthwise
with a sharp knife.
Submerge them in water and… surprise! The leaves
curl up and take on a certain air, perhaps of modern
art, or… je ne sais quoi. In any case, they give a nice
touch of style to our little Picodons.
A ribbon of vinaigrette and voila!
The Picodons are sautéed just before serving, of course,
and served simply as they are, just like in Ardèche,
or almost, since this is certainly the first time a Picodon
has ever dressed up for a chocolate soirée!

Using a string, halve the Picodons.

Delicately embed the walnuts, also halved, in the outer
layer of the cheese by pressing with the palm of
your hand. Refrigerate.
Prepare a ganache with the chocolate and cream.
Add the cracked, roasted walnuts, season and leave
to crystallize at room temperature or in
the refrigerator.
Dry the cured ham slices in the oven
at 120-140ºC/248-284ºF. Keep in a dry place.
5

5. ARRANGE A FEW SLICES OF DRIED HAM FROM

4. LET THE CHEESES COOL SLIGHTLY AND FILL THE OVEN AND COVER WITH THE TOP HALF OF
THEM WITH THE WALNUT GANACHE. THE CHEESE, STILL WARM. SERVE IMMEDIATELY.
240

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE

WITH ROQUEFORT NUGGETS,
SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH
BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE,
FOR 8-10 ENTHUSIASTS OF PENICILLIUM ROQUEFORTI AND EXTRAVAGANCE

CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE

This is one of the mothers of all cheeses. Roquefort and chocolate to a friend of mine,
What is certain is that it is one of the oldest also a pastry chef, Yannick Lefort– the master
cheeses still known, and eaten, in modern times. of macaroons. Today, with his wife Marie-Odile,
Pliny the Elder already mentioned it in he runs the company Macarons Gourmands at
the 1st century. In the 9th it was one of the gates of Paris.
Charlemagne’s favorites, but it was in 1411 that If I remember correctly, Yannick had made a kind
its final consecration occurred when Charles VI of tartine with banana, Roquefort and chocolate.
conceded the monopoly on maturing this It left an impression on me; it was during
treasure to the grateful inhabitants of the little a splendid, gourmand buffet organized
village of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon. by Valrhona that included an exposition
In 1926, its success continued when it received on chocolate, and which was making its way
the status of AOC (appellation of controlled through museums.
origin). We found ourselves in the Palais de
The spores of penicillium roqueforti, traditionally la Découverte, in Paris, Yannick with his tartines
taken from moldy rye bread, are responsible and I with my Norway lobster, already having
for the superb, blue veins, and more importantly been captivated by the chocolate savory
for the magical, inimitable flavor of Roquefort. combinations.
The brand Papillon is one of the few companies Thank you, Yannick, for your inspiration.
left that still use moldy bread to sow their almost My career as a pastry chef influenced me to turn
mythical cheeses. it into a truffle! It would be too difficult for me
I adore Roquefort, and it inspires me endlessly. to explain the reasons why; and besides,
I have tried it in many chocolate recipes. They it’s better if you try it yourself, taste it
were all very flavorful, though most of the time and understand how in life there are things that
one of the flavors dominated the complicity are difficult to describe or explain, even very
of the chocolate and cheese. Balance is divine, memorable things!
but it seemed difficult to achieve. The pleasure is equally terrific if you use normal
Render unto Caesar the things which are Caesar’s. sized truffles, served as an hors d’oeuvre,
I owe the slightly audacious idea of mixing accompanied by a good port or a Rasteau.
241
 ROQUE AND ROLL… THE CHOCOLATE COATING

3/4 cup milk • 3/4 cup whipping cream • 13oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 1/3oz butter • 10 1/2oz Papillon Roquefort • 1 loaf
country bread • Butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 1/5 lbs Araguani chocolate 72% • 5/6 cup grapeseed oil
242

1 3

Boil the milk and the cream together. Prepare a well

emulsified ganache with the chopped or melted
chocolate by gradually adding the very hot liquid.
Keep the temperature at 38-40ºC/100-104ºF.
Add the cold butter in cubes and blend for a few
seconds with a handheld blender.
Break the Roquefort up into nuggets, add to the mixture
and stir carefully to not break them more. Season.
Leave to crystallize at room temperature or in the
cellar for even better results.
When the texture is creamy and manageable with 2 4
a pastry bag, form fairly large truffles, or “sausages”
that can later be cut with a knife, which is easier. Bake at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF until they acquire Melt the chocolate with the oil and cool slightly.
IMPORTANT: leave to crystallize overnight in an intense golden color. Refrigerate. With a wooden skewer, dip the very cold truffles
the refrigerator! Wearing plastic food gloves, bread the very cold in the chocolate and drain the excess before placing
Slice the bread and cut it into small cubes. Coat truffles with the “croutons”, forcing and mashing them on paper.
with butter, salt and pepper. together well to create a balanced tasting experience. Serve at room temperature.

3. COVER THE COLD TRUFFLES WITH THE “CROUTONS”

OF TOASTED BREAD AND PRESS FIRMLY WITH YOUR
1. WHEN THE GANACHE IS CORRECTLY EMULSIFIED FINGERTIPS TO ENSURE THEY REMAIN WELL
AND BLENDED FOR A FEW SECONDS, ADD EMBEDDED IN THE GANACHE. DIP THE MIXTURE
THE ROQUEFORT NUGGETS AND STIR CAREFULLY 2. WHEN THE GANACHE HAS CRYSTALLIZED, FORM IN MELTED CHOCOLATE AT 30-35ºC/86-95ºF.
TO NOT BREAK THEM. POUR INTO A FLAT TRAY TRUFFLES ABOUT THE SIZE OF A TEASPOON AND
AND LEAVE TO CRYSTALLIZE FOR A FEW HOURS REFRIGERATE, IDEALLY OVERNIGHT SO THEY HAVE 4. TURN THE TRUFFLE WHEN DIPPING IN
AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. A CHANCE TO PROPERLY HARDEN. THE CHOCOLATE TO GET RID OF AIR BUBBLES.
 FOR ASSEMBLY

3 very ripe dwarf cavendish bananas • 7oz ficoïde glaciale (ice

plant) • Butter • Salt and freshly ground pepper • KKO oil (See
page 284)
243

Peel the bananas and cut into beveled “stoppers”.

Sauté with clarified butter. Season.
The ficoïde glaciale salad is served just as it is.
The chocolate spiral is made with our now customary
5 KKO oil.
An unexpected combination, but one that
is convincing from the first bite.
I recommend that you do not prepare the truffles more
than 4-6 days before service—they keep perfectly
for that amount of time—and wait to apply the
croutons and chocolate bath until the last moment
so they are super crispy!

6. SAUTÉED BANANA.
5. FINISH BY LETTING THE EXCESS CHOCOLATE
DRIP OFF. 7. FICOÏDE GLACIALE.
246 MONT BLANC CLUB

250 GIN TONIC

254 THE BLACK FOREST…IN’

258 NIPPON

262 KOUIKARAS ISLAND

266 THE NEW WORLD

270 THE MILKY WAY

SWEET
DELIGHTS
SWEET DELIGHTS 245
246
 247

MONT BLANC CLUB

The idea to make a sandwich was not of Guanaja Lactée with celery: imagine
a marketing ploy. When I create a recipe I think the surprise in finding a dessert like this in
about it, imagine how I would like to eat it, Tain l’Hermitage!
how I want it to make my mouth water... With time, this extravagance faded, either
During my several trips to Japan, I have often misunderstood by our public or just plain

FOR 8-10 MEMBERS OF THE CLUB

had the opportunity to enjoy one of my favorite forgotten. Paul, with his affable air, told me,
desserts, the Mont-Blanc, something that “Don’t worry, we’ll do it again later, maybe it was
the Japanese are absolutely “otaku”, or wild, too soon.”
about. “Later” has arrived: Paul, enjoying his deserved
Could it be because I grew up with the chestnut retirement as grand chocolatier, and I, without
pastries of Claude Bourguignon of Metz? him, fatefully debuting this celery and chocolate
As destiny would have it, some 25 years later dessert.
I return to my little house nestled in the deep I adore this combination. It’s an original way
Ardèche region: the rugged homeland to interpret “chocolate cuisine”, but also very
of the chestnut. reassuring when we finally taste it! And so,
With Paul Bernard-Brêt, my travel companion I would like to share it with you here.
for a few years at Valrhona, I came up with the It retains its shape because I felt it was imperative
idea to pair celery with chestnuts. Unfortunately, to keep the angel hair that so marked my youth,
my abilities at the time were not sufficient and give the dish an appetizing and generous
to materialize the idea. Paul, however, quality. The assembly of this dessert is pure
was already at the top of the establishment, gourmand, without embellishment or staging.
up there where one intuitively knows when In this dessert, the flavors are like colors,
the truth—the real truth—is presented to him. all sweetness and complicity.
And so, in the period that followed, replete An irresistible pairing: to discover or tell about
with foolish pride, we presented our bonbon as soon as possible.
 CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE CHESTNUT CREAM AND WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM
FRESH CHESTNUTS WITH CELERY JUICE

1/3oz powdered egg whites • 7oz fresh egg whites •

7oz superfine sugar • 10 1/2oz powdered almonds • 2 2/3oz celery juice • 1/3 cup whole milk • 3/8oz invert sugar •
5 1/3oz Caraïbe couverture 66% • 4 2/5oz almond slivers • 8 3/4oz chestnut paste • 4 2/5oz chestnut cream • 3/8oz glucose • 10 1/2oz Ivoire white chocolate • 1 2/3 cups
Confectioner’s sugar 2 3/4oz butter whipping cream
248

1 2

Mix a small amount of sugar with the powdered egg In a food processor set for grinding, mix of all
whites. Whip the fresh egg whites at moderate speed, the ingredients, including the cold, cubed butter,
add to the mixture, and continue to gradually add and blend until it has a uniform texture and all the
the rest of the sugar in small amounts. Melt butter is incorporated.
the Caraïbe couverture at 60-65ºC/140-149ºF. The texture should be creamy and lightly whitened.
Carefully add the sifted powders to the egg whites Fill the pastry bag or the “Mont-Blanc press”
and, at the last moment add the hot, melted chocolate. and refrigerate until assembly.
Pour to a thickness of 3/8 inch over a sheet of silicone
paper and sprinkle with almond slivers. Dust
with confectioner’s sugar and bake at
190-200ºC/374-392ºF. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes,
with the steam vent open.
Refrigerate and cut into squares 2 3/8 to 2 3/4 inches 3

on each side.
After washing the celery stalks and leaves well, extract
Keep in the refrigerator for theor freeze.
the juice using a centrifuge juice extractor. Melt
the chocolate at 45-50ºC/113-122ºF. Boil the juice
with the milk, invert sugar and glucose. Pour
gradually over the chocolate in order to give it an
elastic, lustrous texture. Blend for a few seconds.
Separate out 14oz to mix with the 1 2/3 cups of cold,
liquid whipping cream. Blend again for a few seconds.
The rest of the preparation will be used as a creamy
sauce for the assembly of the dessert.
Keep the two finished preparations in the refrigerator.

2. IN A FOOD PROCESSOR SET FOR GRINDING,

1. COOK THE CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE, MAKING SURE IT COMBINE THE CHESTNUT PASTE AND PUREE WITH 3. FOR A VERY SUPPLE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE,
REMAINS SOFT, AND CUT INTO SQUARES 2 3/8 INCHES THE SOFTENED BUTTER AND BLEND TO GIVE IT PREPARE A PERFECT EMULSION WITH THE WHITE
ON A SIDE. A CREAMY, UNIFORM MIXTURE. CHOCOLATE, CREAM AND FRESH CELERY JUICE.
CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES ASSEMBLY OF THE DESSERT
POACHED IN LIGHT CITRUS
SYRUP

1/2qt water • 6oz sugar • 1 slice lemon • 10 1/2oz celery stalks

249

Wash the celery stalks and chop.

Set aside a few tips and leaves for decoration.
Boil the water and sugar together and add the chopped
celery and lemon slice.
Boil until the celery is slightly crunchy.
Let cool and refrigerate.

4 5

TO SERVE
At serving time, cover a first square of chocolate dacquoise with the chestnut cream using a pastry syringe. Place
a few pieces of celery in light syrup on top. Cover with another dacquoise square. Delicately whip the white chocolate
ganache perfumed with celery. Top the second dacqouise square with the mousse ganache and a few pieces of boiled
chestnuts.
Top with a final square of chocolate dacquoise.
Present on the plate surrounded with a ribbon of the white chocolate and celery ganache, not whipped, and very
creamy.

4. AT SERVING TIME, COVER THE CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE SQUARES WITH CHESTNUT CREAM.
5. TOP WITH A FEW SLICES OF CELERY STALK IN SYRUP, DRAINED WELL.
6. WHIP THE GANACHE SLOWLY WITH A HANDHELD BLENDER. WHEN THE TEXTURE BECOMES FIRM, COVER
THE SQUARES USING A PASTRY SYRINGE AND PLACE A FEW PIECES OF BOILED CHESTNUT ON TOP.
250
 251

GIN TONIC

FOR 8-10 PEOPLE WILLING TO GIVE THEMSELVES UP

Every dessert, every dish has a story. For me, In this dessert, we find those very same
everything falls into a category of what I like, sensations that make me “fly”, so to speak.
what I dislike, either a lot, passionately, An unparalleled contrast of textures and flavors:
or absolutely crazily. This dessert is born sweet, acidic, bitter, crispy, silky and foamy all
of my untiring love for the gin tonic. In my combine marvelously.
opinion, the gin tonic is more than a drink, It is also another nice example of the pairing
it is a symbol. of chocolate, which at first I was not convinced
It’s my travel aperitif since, it must be said, I don’t about, proving once again its capacity to enhance
drink them at home. But as soon as Rika and and support other flavors.
I are in a plane going somewhere, which happens It possesses neutrality that benefits many recipes.
often… it’s my thing. I must include myself among those “converts”
I find it to be more than just simple pleasure of taste. to white chocolate, which we should admit
In my head, this flavor combination has meaning. is a product too often unjustly criticized.
Usually I am not a fan of especially bitter flavors, Two innovative techniques give this dish
but I like the acerbic sweetness here, mixed with personality: the grapefruit semi-confit, and
the gin, which I adore. the light, white chocolate mousse.
 PHYLLO CRISPS CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT
GIN TONIC

1 1/5 cups grapefruit juice • 1/5 cup lemon juice • 3/5 cup tonic •
Phyllo dough sheets • Clarified butter • Confectioner’s sugar 4 1/4oz superfine sugar • 1/7oz apple pectin • 2 7/8 fl oz gin
252

Sift the pectin with the superfine sugar.

Heat the grapefruit juice, lemon juice and tonic
to approximately 60ºC/140ºF. While whisking, add
the pectin and sugar mixture. Bring to a rolling boil,
skim and let cool.
Add the gin and blend for a few moments with
a handheld blender. Refrigerate.

1 4

2 5

3 6

Brush a sheet of phyllo dough with butter and sprinkle leaving the last sheet dry. Cut into squares 2 3/4 inches
lightly with the confectioner’s sugar. Before it hardens, a side. Place over stainless steel tubes and bake
cover with another sheet and bond with the help at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF. When they are well browned,
of a rolling pin. Repeat the process twice and finish by remove from the oven and keep in a dry place.

4. REPEAT THE PROCESS TWO MORE TIMES

AND FINISH BY ADDING A FINAL SHEET OF DRY
1. LIGHTLY BRUSH A SHEET OF PHYLLO DOUGH PHYLLO.
WITH BUTTER.
5. CUT INTO SQUARES 2 3/4 INCHES A SIDE.
2. SPRINKLE WITH CONFECTIONER’S SUGAR
AND COVER WITH AN OTHER SHEET OF PHYLLO. 6. PLACE THE SQUARES INTO BUTTERED STAINLESS
STEEL MOLDS AND BAKE AT 150-160ºC/302-320ºF
3. PRESS FIRMLY USING A ROLLING PIN. UNTIL WELL BROWNED.
WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA MOUSSE MOSAIC OF GRAPEFRUIT
SEMI-CONFIT

2 pink grapefruits • 2 green grapefruits • 2 yellow grapefruits •

2 1/4 cups whole milk • 1/2oz gelatin sheets • 2 vanilla beans • 25 2/3oz Ivoire couverture • 26 1/2oz whipped cream 1.5qt water • 56 1/2oz superfine sugar
253

Thoroughly wash and scrub the grapefruits.

Using a filleting knife, carefully peel them, leaving just
a thin layer of white on the skin.
Simmer the slices of peel in water for 10 minutes.
Drain and repeat the operation two more times:
the peel will be almost transparent. Separate the sugar
into four equal 14oz parts. Cover the peels with
the 1.5 quarts of water and add 14oz of superfine
sugar before gently boiling for 15 minutes.
Add another 14oz of sugar and repeat the process until
7 9 all the sugar has been added, leaving it to boil each
time for 15 minutes before adding more sugar.
This “rapid confit” will turn the skins almost
transparent and make them very soft.
Set aside and refrigerate. Drain before using.

8 10

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water and drain well.

Crack open and grate the vanilla beans and bring
them to a boil with the milk. Add the drained gelatin
and strain through a chinois. Gradually pour
the mixture over the chopped chocolate, taking care
to emulsify correctly. The texture should be very
elastic and lustrous. Using a rubber spatula,
at a temperature of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, add the
whipped cream. Quickly pour into a flat container
and refrigerate overnight.
Just before serving time, make quenelles using a warm 11
spoon. Place a quenelle on top of each crisp. TO SERVE
This mousse freezes well, which makes the mise Allow for 3 crisps per person. Using a warm soup
en place that much easier. spoon, place a quenelle of chocolate mousse with
vanilla on top of each crisp. Arrange the crisps on
the plate and “wedge”, if necessary, with a few pieces
of the grapefruit mosaic.
Just before serving, top each mousse quenelle with
9. VERIFY THAT THE TEMPERATURE OF THE MIXTURE a few peeled segments of pink and yellow grapefruit.
IS BETWEEN 35-40ºC/95-104ºF AND CAREFULLY
7. ADD A LITTLE BOILING MILK TO BEGIN INCORPORATE IT INTO THE WHIPPED CREAM MOUSSE. Cover generously with the gin tonic velouté, and finish
THE EMULSION WHILE STIRRING WITH A RUBBER SPATULA.
THE MIXTURE THICKENS RAPIDLY AND PARTIALLY 10. IF MIXED AT A CONTROLLED TEMPERATURE, with a few julienned strips of grapefruit peel. Encircle
SEPARATES: THIS IS NORMAL. IN FACT, THE EMULSION HAS A CHOCOLATE MOUSSE SHOULD BE ELASTIC, CREAMY,
JUST BARELY BEGUN, AND THE MIXTURE IS STILL TOO FATTY LIGHT AND ABOVE ALL, EASY TO WORK.
with the mosaic of grapefruit semi-confit.
AND NOT MOIST ENOUGH YET. To ensure the absolute success of this dessert everything
11. AFTER A NIGHT IN THE REFRIGERATOR,
8. GRADUALLY ADD THE REST OF THE MILK, WHILE THE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE IS PERFECTLY should be served cold and, of course, very crispy!
STIRRING VIGOROUSLY. CRYSTALLIZED.
254

ACHTUNG! ZIS RECIPE HAST BEEN FORMULATED

THE BLACK FOREST… IN’
To each their origins! pastries, like the big boss of the town.
I am not a native to the Alsace region, but Even so far from home, the Black Forest is still
FÜR 10 KOURMETS

almost. Being from Lorraine left me saturated the same beautiful cake that we dreamt about
in Germanic rigor and especially in the as kids.
gourmand sweets from there. Schwartz Wald, Many adulterated, mediocre versions have been
the well-known Black Forest cake, has since attempted, but it is best when made simply with
made a world tour. It can be found in countless good ingredients. Lightly sweetened whipping
pastry shops across the planet. cream with just a touch of kirsch, griotte cherries
I remember a small shop in Penang – Malaysia, in liqueur with their firm meat and the discreet,
no less! In the display window we found pastries delicate bitterness of the pit, and the light cake
that were very similar to the ones at home. not overly imbibed.
Among others, in its almost legendary richness And that is how we imagined and prepared
and 4 3/4 inches of height, there stood it for this dessert, with a contemporary design.
the Schwartz Wald, in the middle of the other
255
 ZE SHÉNOISE CAKE VIT CAKAO UND ALMONSS VIPPED DARK SHOKOLATE
(WITH A SLIGHT GERMAN ACCENT) KANACHE
(STILL WITH THE GERMAN ACCENT)

Soft ganache for base:

1 cup whipping cream 35% • 7/8oz glucose •
7/8oz invert sugar • 6 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72%

Whipped ganache:
12oz whole eggs • 6 3/4oz almond paste 50% • 3 1/3oz superfine sugar • 5 7/8oz flour type 45 • 2/3oz Valrhona cocoa powder 1lb ganache • 1 7/8 cups whipping cream
256

1 2 4

Bring the whipping cream to a boil with the sugar

and glucose. Slowly pour the boiling mixture over
the chopped chocolate, stirring from the middle
to create an elastic, lustrous “nucleus”, which will
indicate the beginning of the emulsion. This texture
should be preserved until the end of the mixing.
Continue the process, adding the liquid little by little.
Blend with a handheld blender when the mixture
is finished.

Add the cream to the 1 pound of ganache and

refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours. Whip the mixture with
a whisk to give it a sufficiently consistent texture
for working with a pastry bag or spatula.

Clarify the dough by gradually adding the eggs. Sift the flour and cocoa powder together and add
Add the superfine sugar. Heat in a bain-marie to the whipped mixture. Spread out onto a Silpat sheet
to 50ºC/122ºF and whip until ribbons form and until and bake at 190-200ºC/374-392ºF.
the mixture cools almost completely.

2. WHIP UNTIL RIBBONS FORM ON MODERATE SPEED,

AND CONTINUE UNTIL THE CREAMY MIXTURE COOLS
1. FOR THE COCOA GÉNOISE: CLARIFY THE ALMOND ALMOST COMPLETELY.
PASTE BY GRADUALLY ADDING THE EGGS. HEAT TO 4. JUST BEFORE SERVING, WHIP THE CREAMY
50-55ºC/122-131ºF IN A BAIN-MARIE. 3. FOLD IN THE SIFTED FLOUR AND COCOA POWDER. GANACHE SLOWLY WITH A HANDHELD BEATER.
CHANTILLY VIT KIRSCH CHOCOLATE PANELS
(DON’T FORGET ZE CHERMAN
ACCENT!)

1qt whipping cream • 2 3/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 1 1/3 fl oz

Alsace kirsch • 1 vanilla bean Chocolate couverture
257

Whip the cream with the confectioner’s sugar, vanilla

and kirsch until foamy. Refrigerate until serving time.

5 6

Temper the chocolate and spread it thinly onto a sheet

TO SERVE
of plastic.
At serving time, place two large rectangles of génoise
Cut out shapes before it crystallizes completely.
cake on a plate and garnish with the half-cherries and
Keep in a sealed container.
the ganache using a pastry bag with a beveled tip.
Decorate the plate with a ribbon of chantilly and finish
with a few chocolate panels to add shape.

6. AT SERVING TIME, ARRANGE TWO RECTANGLES

5. TEMPER THE CHOCOLATE COUVERTURE AND OF GÉNOISE CAKE, GARNISH WITH THE HALF-
SPREAD IT THINLY BETWEEN TWO SHEETS OF PLASTIC. CHERRIES AND THE GANACHE USING A BEVELED TIP
BEFORE THE CHOCOLATE CRYSTALLIZES COMPLETELY, ON THE PASTRY BAG. FINISH BY PLACING THE
CUT OUT THE DESIRED SHAPES FOR THE CHOCOLATE PANELS VERTICALLY ON THE PLATE
PRESENTATION. AND ADDING A RIBBON OF KIRSCH CHANTILLY.
258
 259

NIPPON
This is a good example of how traveling can leave I found my pastry fetish; how the ideas

TO “JAPANIZE” TEN PEOPLE

its mark on you. materialize! This funny little story left such
Everything began with a simple macaroon an impression on me that I couldn’t resist
that, of my doing, somehow turned Japanese… offering you this stand-up macaroon.
This came out of the simple idea of inserting Japan, a country of contrasts, of beauty,
a crispy sheet of chocolate into the center of finesse… this dessert is made in its image,
of the macaroon. It started off round, then whispering its secrets to us.
became a triangle, then a square and finally Supple, milky and frozen under its crunchy
finished as a rectangle, all because we found out chocolate shell with Matcha tea, it seduces
that the bigger the sheet was, the better and calls to you with its golden sesame pearls
the macaroon stood up. What a surprise! And and lightly caramelized lychees.
suddenly, while admiring my discovery, my Full of sensations that should awaken your
second homeland called to me and I found desires to discover this round, almost perfect
the Hinomaru, the Japanese flag. There it is, symbol of the land of the rising sun.
 COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATE FRESH SAUTÉED LYCHEES
PARFAIT WITH GINGER CARAMEL

3 1/2oz noisette butter • 3 1/2oz egg whites • 3 1/2oz 1 4/5 cups whipping cream 35% • 4 1/4oz fresh egg whites •
confectioner’s sugar • 2 3/4oz flour type 45 • 3 3/4 tbsp cocoa 7oz superfine sugar • 15 1/8oz Tanariva Lactée milk 14oz fresh lychees • 4 2/5oz superfine sugar • 2/3oz fresh
powder chocolate 33% grated ginger • 2 tbsp whipping cream
260

1 3 4

Prepare a “Swiss” meringue with the sugar and egg

whites.
In the bain-marie, heat the mixture to approximately
55-60ºC/131-140ºF and slowly whip until it cools
down again.
Meanwhile, melt the couverture at about 50ºC/122ºF
and whip the cream. Emulsify the couverture by
adding least possible amount of the whipped, foamy
cream necessary to give it an elastic, lustrous texture.
Add the meringue just as it is taken out of the mixer
2 and mix delicately. Finish by adding in the rest of 5
the whipped cream. Pour into the base of hemisphere
Sift the powders separately. Add the sugar to the still molds and freeze. Wash and peel the lychees and remove the pits.
warm butter and mix with a rubber spatula. Add Caramelize the sugar by itself until well browned.
the flour and cocoa powder, then the egg whites, Stop the cooking by adding the lychees and whipping
gradually to prevent the formation of any lumps. Note: You will definitely have extra parfait leftover, but this cream.
Be careful to not whip or whiten the preparation. recipe requires only a small amount to obtain the desired Add the ginger and bring to a boil.
result.
Keep the paste in the refrigerator or use immediately. Refrigerate.
Spread the paste out with the help of a rectangular
stencil about 3 by 5 inches.
Bake at 180-190ºC/356-374ºF. Remove the stencil and
let cool before storing in a dry place.

1. SPREAD THE DOUGH OUT USING AN OFFSET 4. COOK THE SUGAR BY ITSELF UNTIL IT BEGINS
SPATULA. TO LIGHTLY SMOKE, OR CHECKING THAT THE
TEMPERATURE IS BETWEEN 185-188ºC/365-370ºF.
2. FORM RECTANGLES BY SCRAPING THE DOUGH
WITH THE EDGE OF THE SPATULA. BAKE AT 5. STOP THE COOKING BY ADDING THE LYCHEES
160-170ºC/320-338ºF FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 MINUTES. 3. FILL SILICONE FLEXIPAN MOLDS HALF WAY UP WITH AND CREAM. BRING TO A BOIL FOR A FEW SECONDS
KEEP IN A DRY PLACE. THE CHOCOLATE PARFAIT AND FREEZE. AND REFRIGERATE.
WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA AND TOASTED
SESAME

8 3/4oz white chocolate • 3 1/2oz cocoa butter • 1/2 cup vegetable oil • 1/2oz matcha green tea • 3 1/2oz toasted sesame seeds
261

TO SERVE
Just before serving, stick two hemispheres of the frozen
parfait dipped in Matcha chocolate on either side
of a chocolate cigarette paste “tuile” with the help
of a little melted chocolate.
Adhere in such a way that the dessert can stand up
on its own.
Place on a plate and decorate generously with
the warmed lychees.
6 7

Melt all the ingredients together, except the tea, To dip the frozen parfaits, pierce them with the tip
at 40-45ºC/104-113ºF. of a knife and dip a first time in the melted Matcha
Add the Matcha tea and stir for a few moments until chocolate at a maximum of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF.
it dissolves completely. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds immediately before
Keep hot and melted to dip the frozen parfaits into the mixture has a chance to cool.
later, or let harden without refrigerating. Dip again, drain and keep in a container in the freezer.

7. SPRINKLE WITH TOASTED SESAME SEEDS QUICKLY,

BEFORE IT CRYSTALLIZES.
6. DIP THE FROZEN PARFAITS IN THE WHITE
CHOCOLATE WITH GREEN TEA MIXTURE, MELTED 8. DIP A SECOND TIME IN THE CHOCOLATE WITH
AT A MAXIMUM OF 35-40ºC/95-104ºF. GREEN TEA AND FREEZE.
262
 263

KOUIKARAS ISLAND
I remember… it wasn’t Quebec, but rather Unfortunately, we could barely communicate
Langkawi, in a small white temple worshiped with her aside from a smile and a couple
for the destiny of a young child-turned-god. of words in English. In any event, I understood
At the entrance, once we passed the white gates that the dough was “maybe” made with egg

FOR 8-10 TRAVEL BUFFS

of reinforced steel, my pastry chef nose guided whites, cornstarch and sugar. As far as the recipe
the way. Rika and I, accustomed to temples thick goes, you can imagine…
with incense smoke, were taken aback by these Almost instantly the crêpe reminded me of
sweet smells, so far from home, lost somewhere the caramel that covers my favorite dessert, the
on a small island in Malaysia. floating island. Even on vacation I am haunted
I came across a little old woman, crouching by sweets!
to the ground with her back hunched over, I already had the idea to crown “my” chocolate
dropping a creamy piece of coconut dough into dessert with this tidbit from Kouikaras,
a practically non-existent oil bath. I approached or cookie, instead of the caramel, which has
her, counting on my ability to communicate an extremely sweet flavor that bothers me
through the language of sight and pleasure. A few sometimes.
perfectly golden crêpes dentelles filled the round And so, with this recipe you will discover a little
cooking surface, which was nothing more than a slice of Malaysia and one of my most delicious
concave top to an oil barrel, in the center of which desserts.
a bit of oil bubbled over a soft flame.
 KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER

5 1/3oz fresh egg whites • 1 3/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 1 3/4oz flour type 55 • 3 1/2oz cornstarch • 2/3oz orange flower
264

Sift the powders together and mix them with the egg
whites, avoiding lumps. Follow by adding the orange
flower and finish the mixture.
In a frying pan, pour in oil to about 3/8 inch deep,
a very thin layer, and preheat to 170-180ºC/338-356ºF.
Using a paper cone, make strings of dough, entangling
them on top of each other. Leave in the oil until golden
brown and remove.
Place on absorbent paper and keep in a dry place. 2

1. POUR THE OIL INTO A PAN TO A DEPTH OF ABOUT

3/8 INCH. PREHEAT TO 170-180ºC/338-356ºF AND
MAKE THIN LINES OF KOUIKARAS DOUGH USING 2. WHEN THEY TURN GOLDEN BROWN, REMOVE FROM
A PAPER CONE. THE OIL AND PLACE ON ABSORBENT PAPER.
CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER
ORANGE ZEST

7oz Guanaja chocolate 70% • 2 1/2 cups whole milk •

1/5oz pectin X58* • Zest of 1 orange 7oz fresh egg whites • 2 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1 3/4oz powdered glucose • 1/2oz orange flower • 1/14oz (2g) cream of tartar
265

Chop the chocolate. Sift the pectin with the sugar and
zest the orange. Heat the milk to about 60ºC/140ºF,
dilute the pectin and add the zest.
Bring to a boil and pour gradually over the chopped
chocolate to obtain, and maintain, a perfectly
emulsified texture.
Strain the mixture through a chinois and refrigerate
until serving time. This preparation cannot be frozen.

* This kind of pectin reacts with the calcium and not with
the citric acid. 3 4

Combine all of the ingredients and beat slowly until

peaks form.
Using an offset spatula, fill small hemisphere molds,
or other similarly shaped recipients, and smooth
the tops. Depending on size, cook in a microwave
at 100 watts for approximately 40 seconds.
When removed from the microwave, the egg whites
should be slightly detached from the edges.
Delicately remove from the molds and refrigerate.

TO SERVE
Just before serving, coat the base of a plate with the chocolate cream and place a piece
of poached egg white on top. Sprinkle the Kouikaras with confectioner’s sugar and cut them
into thin sheets to be skewered vertically on the “island”. Serve immediately.

4. COOK IN A MICROWAVE ON A MODERATE SETTING

FOR JUST A FEW SECONDS.

3. FILL THE MOLDS WITH THE WHIPPED EGG WHITES 5. DE-MOLD IMMEDIATELY AND REFRIGERATE BEFORE
AND SMOOTH WITH A SPATULA. SERVING.
266

THE NEW WORLD

Another fascinating story for this dessert. Since I come from the neighboring Lorraine
It was named “New World” after the New World region it’s difficult for me to say, but since
Food and Wine, which is a significant gastronomic it’s true… Vive Alsace and Lorraine!
RECIPE CALCULATED FOR A DISCOVERY OF 35 DESSERTS

event organized at the Ritz Carlton in Singapore After a few modifications, the New World was
by their executive chef, Christophe Megel. born.
I had the good fortune to be invited to this It was born of professional ideas of my lovely
experience. And there is no other word team, and of a concept for an Easter dessert that
to describe it really: after preparing 600 Phillipe Givre, my assistant, had at the Troisgros
“competition” desserts for so many diners, it was restaurant where he was pastry chef for seven
exactly that, an experience. years.
The theme was the New World and I had to find In a deep plate, his Easter egg melted upon
an appropriate dessert. From Christophe’s own addition of the chocolate sauce that it was bathed
mouth came words like “make something crazy, in at the last moment, the hot satin texture
a spectacle, something unprecedented.” With revealing… I can’t remember what anymore.
each word the stress seemed to increase! So, Sorry Phil!
I needed to come up with a dessert that could Aside from the pleasure of this experience, I also
be assembled 4-6 hours prior to serving, would had the joy of meeting Gérald Maridet who, after
sit well in the cold storage room, with a rapid being my first assistant at school, left me for
service of about 20 minutes to the 600 guests. bigger and better things. He became head pastry
I also had the “permission” to add something chef first at La Pinède, then at the Hyatt
to the dish at the time of service. in Jakarta, then on to the Ritz in Singapore,
In one of the most beautiful palaces in all and today at the Ritz in Beijing.
of Asia, the Ritz, organization runs by a A lot of hard work, yes, but also so much mutual
metronome and creativity is the order of support and friendship!
the day. It is a quality that, through Christophe, A showy dessert with a mise en place that is easy
is tinted with the rigor of his time in and efficient. Flavors taken from here and there.
the Alsace region and from working with Contrasts of textures and temperatures… just
Alain Ducasse. how the chefs like it!
267
 ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATE ALMOND STREUSEL GELATINS
SPHERES

Supple gelatin “grand cru”

6 7/8oz Manjari chocolate 64% • 1/7oz pectin X58
(thermoreversible) • 1 1/4oz superfine sugar • 2 2/3 cups
whole milk

Diamond gelatin of Menton lemon and honey

3 1/2oz butter • 3 1/2oz brown sugar • 4/5 cup soft flour 3 1/3 cups water • 3 1/3oz sugar •3 1/3oz lavender honey •
13 1/4oz Guanaja couverture 70% • 5 1/3oz cocoa butter type 55 • 3 1/2oz powdered almonds • 3/4 tsp fine salt 1/3oz agar agar • 1/4oz gelatin sheets • 2 Menton lemons
268

Cut the cold butter into small cubes. Supple “grand cru” gelatin
Sift the sugar, flour, salt and powdered almonds Chop the couverture.
together. Add the butter and mix with a flat Sift the pectin together with the sugar and mix into
attatchment. Small balls will form, then will transform the warm milk.
into inconsistent dough. Stop the mixing and Bring to a boil and gradually pour over the chopped
refrigerate this “dough” for a minimum of 30 minutes. chocolate to give a perfect, stable texture
Pass the cold dough through a 1/8 inch sieve to the emulsion.
or an icing grate to obtain uniform pieces. Refrigerate Let cool and pour into the hemispheres already filled
or freeze until cooking. Distribute the streusel evenly with the streusel. Leave to crystallize in the
onto a tray. refrigerator.
1 Bake on low heat, 150-160ºC/302-320ºF, with This preparation cannot be frozen.
the steam vent open, until it acquires a deep golden
Melt the ingredients together at 50-55ºC/122-131ºF. color. Let cool. Place the streusel in a mixing bowl Diamond gelatin with Menton lemon and honey
Crystallize as you would a couverture and pour a thin and, while mixing with a rubber spatula, cover Wash the lemons, remove half the zest of one lemon
coating into 70 hemisphere molds, 2 3/4 inches with the warm melted chocolate used to mold with a peeler and squeeze the rest. Boil the water
in diameter. the hemispheres. and steep the zest for 2 to 3 minutes, then remove.
Leave to crystallize for a minimum of 2 to 3 hours Once crystallized, keep in containers, or fill Add the lemon juice, the sugar mixed with the
before de-molding. the fastened, “upright” hemispheres directly. powdered agar agar, and the gelatin, previously soaked
Place big, irregular drops of chocolate onto paper in plenty of water, and bring to a boil. Leave to set
and fix half of the hemispheres, open side up, into in the refrigerator. Do not freeze. At serving time,
the chocolate. These will serve to assemble the dessert break the gelatin into “diamonds” and scatter around
on the plate. Set aside as soon as possible in a sealed each sphere.
container to avoid them absorbing any odors. Save
the rest of the chocolate for dressing the streusel later,
and to keep it from softening in the dessert.

1. PREPARATION IN HEMISPHERE MOLDS OF ULTRA

FINE TEMPERED CHOCOLATE.
TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE CACAO NIB NOUGATINE BROCHETTES OF VINE PEACHES
PRICKED WITH FRESH
LAVENDER

1 2/3 cups whole milk • 3 1/2oz glucose • 11 1/2oz Jivara 5 1/3oz sugar • 7/8oz pectin NH • 4 2/5oz butter • 1 3/4oz 15 ripe vine peaches • Liquid butter • Superfine sugar •
Lactée chocolate 40% • 5 4/5oz Manjari chocolate 64% glucose • 6 1/6oz cacao nibs 35 sprigs of fresh lavender
269

Boil the milk with the glucose. Over the melted Melt the butter with the glucose. Mix the pectin into Wash the peaches and cut into ten segments.
chocolate, add a small quantity of hot milk and the sugar and add to the butter. Cook on low heat, Skewer them with the lavender sprigs. Place on a tray
proceed with the emulsion. without stirring much, until it thickens. and coat with butter using a brush or a vaporizer.
The mixture should be elastic and lustrous. Finish Add the cacao nibs and spread between two sheets Sprinkle with sugar and bake in a hot oven
by adding the rest of the very hot liquid. of sulphurized paper. at 220-230ºC/428-446ºF.
Refrigerate or serve very hot, 65ºC/149ºF, Bake at 170-180ºC/338-356ºF, or store in the freezer When the peaches are browned, remove from
so the chocolate shells melt on contact. or refrigerator. When the sugary mixture acquires the oven.
a nice caramel color, remove from the oven. Serve hot.
Set aside in a dry place.

TO SERVE

2 4 6

3 5 7

2. FIX THE HEMISPHERES ONTO A DROP OF TEMPERED

CHOCOLATE TO FORM A FOUNDATION. FILL WITH
STREUSEL, THEN THE CHOCOLATE GELATIN (COLD
BUT STILL LIQUID SO THE CHOCOLATE DOESN’T MELT).
LET SIT IN THE REFRIGERATOR FOR A FEW MOMENTS 4. FOR A MORE GOURMAND APPEARANCE, COAT
BEFORE VERTICALLY INSERTING THE “TUILES” OF THE TOP HEMISPHERE IN POWDERED CHOCOLATE
CACAO NIB NOUGATINE. AND COCOA BUTTER.
6. AS IT MELTS, THE CHOCOLATE SPHERE REVEALS
3. ON A HOT TRAY, VERY LIGHTLY MELT THE EDGES 5. AT THE MOMENT WHEN YOU SERVE THE CLIENT, THE SURPRISE HIDDEN WITHIN THE DESSERT.
OF THE SECOND CHOCOLATE HEMISPHERE AND COVER THE SPHERE WITH THE CHOCOLATE SAUCE
QUICKLY FIX IT TO THE FROZEN DESSERT. HEATED TO 60ºC/140ºF. 7. THE FILLING.
270

RECIPE FOR AN 8-10 PERSON INTERGALACTIC VOYAGE THE MILKY WAY

This is a dessert that takes you right back to your or I got up from the table, it was for one of her
childhood. That milky sweetness of certain eternally delicious sweets, like the caramelized
desserts that got us out of bed… to eat some! pineapple and yoghurt pastry, or the“floating
A composition of familiar flavors and an alluring island”, visitandines* or beignets, mmm…
look. Like a space ship coming back to earth that Moreover, it has been a source of inspiration for
just happens to land on your plate, just for you. many of my desserts, like the Kouikaras,
Raspberry nectar, a teardrop of creamy for example. And my biscuit Emmanuel always
chocolate-coriander mousse… reminds me of her pineapple pastry!
The ensemble is comfortably situated within The simple concept notwithstanding, this dessert
a “virtual” milk chocolate made from gelatins produces the desired effect just by landing
of bitter chocolate and raw milk. A few thin on the table.
sheets of chocolate and a “nebula” of crunchy Once more, unusual textures that may be new
sablé are there to spice things up a bit. for many diners, but that are delicious
I’ll always be thankful to my mother who and refreshingly pleasant at the end of a meal.
ingrained in me so many gourmet experiences, Another offering that reaffirms our idea that
but especially for her homemade desserts. chocolate desserts can be fresh, light:
In fact, if Papa, Emmanuel, Florence, Alexandre the finishing touch to a lovely meal.

* Translator’s note: A small, round pastry in the shape of a filled wafer with consistent dough, sometimes covered
with apricot marmalade after baking and glazed with a kirsch fondant.
271
 COMPRESSED SABLÉ OF GELATINS CHOCOLATE-CORIANDER
ALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILK MOUSSE AND CREAM
CHOCOLATE

Dark chocolate gelatin

2 cups raw whole milk • 2 3/4oz sugar • 7oz Araguani
4 1/4oz butter • 4 1/4oz confectioner’s sugar • 2oz powdered chocolate 72% • 1/8oz agar agar Tender ganache base
almonds • 1 3/4oz eggs •1/2 cup soft flour type 55 • 1 2/5 cups 1 cup whipping cream • 7/8oz glucose • 7/8oz invert sugar •
soft flour type 55 • 1/3 tsp fine salt • 3 1/2oz Gianduja milk Raw milk gelatin 2/5oz cilantro seeds • 7oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 2 cups
chocolate 2 cups raw whole milk • 2oz sugar • 1/8oz agar agar whipping cream
272

Start by mixing together the softened butter, fine salt, Dark chocolate gelatin Boil 1 cup of whipping cream with the sugars and add
confectioner’s sugar, powdered almonds, eggs and Boil the milk with the sugar and agar agar. the cracked coriander seeds. Steep for 3 to 4 minutes
1/2 cup of flour. Pour, little by little, over the chopped chocolate and strain through a chinois. Slowly pour the mixture
Be careful not to whip. When the mixture becomes to obtain a perfect emulsion with an elastic, lustrous over the chopped chocolate, while stirring from
homogenous, quickly add the remaining 1 2/5 cups texture. the center to create an elastic, lustrous “nucleus”
of flour. Finish by gradually adding the rest of the milk. – a sign of a correct emulsion. This texture should be
Let stand for 1 to 2 hours and slice very thinly. Blend for a few moments to give it a smooth, supple maintained until the end of the mixing. Continue
Bake at 150-160ºC/302-320ºF until the dough texture. Pour into a tray to an approximate height gradually adding the liquid until finished.
acquires a nice, light brown color. Let cool and grind of 2/3 to 3/4 inch. Finally, add the 2 cups of cold whipping cream.
in the food processor. Leave to crystallize in the refrigerator for a minimum
When the grains are sufficiently fine, add the melted Warning: this preparation must not be frozen of 3 hours, or preferably overnight. Separate out
Gianduja, just warm. Finish the mixture by hand a small amount for the chocolate cream and whip
to not mash the dough any further. If necessary, the rest slowly with a whisk.
perform a sablage with gloved hands. Raw milk gelatin The texture should be silky and light.
Keep in a dry place. Boil the milk with the sugar and agar agar.
Blend for a few moments and pour into a tray
to an approximate height of 2/3 to 3/4 inch.

Warning: this preparation must not be frozen

RASPBERRY PUREE DESSERT ASSEMBLY

3 1/2oz fresh raspberries • 1 3/4oz neutral glaze

273

1 2 4

While cold, smash the raspberries and glaze with

a fork to obtain a puree, without breaking the seeds.
Refrigerate.

3 5

TO SERVE
Sprinkle the Gianduja sablé onto the base of a plate. Place a rectangle of dark chocolate gelatin on top.
Top with a very thin semicircle of chocolate.
Cut a rectangle of the raw milk gelatin and, using different sized pastry bag tips, punch out cavities. Keep the removed
bits of gelatin for decoration.
Just before serving, fill the respective cavities with chocolate mousse, chocolate cream, and raspberry puree.
Garnish with a second chocolate semicircle.

4. MAKE THREE DIFFERENT SIZED CAVITIES IN

2. CUT OUT SEMICIRCLES IN A THIN SHEET THE RAW MILK GELATIN.
OF CHOCOLATE.
5. FILL ONE CAVITY WITH RASPBERRY PUREE,
1. SMASH THE RASPBERRIES AND GLAZE TO OBTAIN 3. CUT THE DARK CHOCOLATE AND RAW MILK GELATINS ANOTHER WITH THE CHOCOLATE CREAM AND THE LAST
A WELL COMBINED MIXTURE. INTO RECTANGLES. WITH THE MOUSSE.
276 LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

277 OVALIS TONKA

278 CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

279 PUZZLE

280 SYDNEY

281 GOLD BULLION

282 IRISH COFFEE CUBE

283 HIBISCUS

283 VERBENA

MIGNARDISES
MIGNARDISES 275
 LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

Yet another mission of apprenticeship, LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITE CARAÏBE SACHERTORTE

of sorcery…
It’s often exactly what is missing…
CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
at that last moment, 15 7/8oz almond paste 50% • 4 1/2oz superfine sugar •
when you need a cake fast! 7 2/5oz egg yolks • 5 1/3oz whole eggs • 8 3/4oz egg whites •
4 1/2oz superfine sugar • 3 1/2oz flour type 45 • 1 3/4oz cocoa
9/10 cups whole milk • 12 1/3oz Ivoire couverture • 1 1/2 cups powder • 5 1/3oz Caraïbe couverture 66% • 3 1/2oz liquid
whipping cream 35% • Licorice powder butter
276

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water and drain. Melt Mix the almond paste with 4 1/2oz of sugar and
the white chocolate. Boil the milk and add the licorice. moisten by adding the yolks and whole eggs, one
Steep for 3 to 4 minutes and strain through a chinois. by one. Whip until ribbons form. Beat the egg whites
Add the drained gelatin. while adding the remaining sugar, little by little. Sift
Pour the hot milk, little by little, over the melted the cocoa powder and flour together. Meanwhile, melt
chocolate to emulsify correctly. The texture should the couverture and butter at 50ºC/122ºF. Mix a small
be very elastic and lustrous. Make sure the amount of the whites with the couverture and melted
temperature is between 30-35ºC/86-95ºF, and stir butter to give it a light, smooth texture. Add
in the whipped cream mousse. the almond paste mixture with eggs and yolks. Finally,
Pour into frame molds 1 1/2 inches high and freeze. add the cocoa powder and flour and finish by mixing
in the rest of the egg whites. Spread out on a tray
and bake at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, steam vent closed.

TO SERVE
Cut the Ivoire mousse with licorice into rectangles 3/4 inch on a side.
Place each piece on top of a square of sachertorte, cut to approximately 1 inch on a side.
Using tempered dark chocolate couverture, construct small ladders and lean them on
the mousse.
OVALIS TONKA

Flavors of Venezuela. TONKA BEAN CARAMEL CACAO NIB NOUGATINE

Notes of beeswax and turpentine.
The mystery of the Tonka lurks within…

6 1/3oz superfine sugar • 1 1/4 cups whipping cream 35% • 11 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1/14oz (2g) pectin NH •
4 1/4oz glucose syrup • 1 3/4oz Tanariva chocolate 33% • 4 2/5oz butter • 1 3/4oz glucose • 6 1/8oz cacao nibs •
1 3/4oz butter • Tonka beans 2/3 cup water
277

Prepare the caramel by cooking the superfine sugar Combine the sugar and pectin first, then and add
by itself. the butter, glucose and water.
Warm the cream with the glucose and finely grated Cook together on low heat without much stirring.
Tonka bean. Cool the caramel down by adding the When the mixture starts to thicken, add the warmed
warm mixture and then cook together at 104ºC/219ºF. nibs.
Let the temperature cool again to 80-85ºC/176-185ºF, Spread out onto a Silpat sheet.
strain through a chinois and emulsify with the milk Bake at 180-190ºC/356-374ºF. Let cool.
chocolate. Break up the nougatine into little shards and place
At 35ºC/95ºF, add the 5 1/3 ounces of butter and mix. them over the creamy Tonka caramel. Serve cold.
Let crystallize and garnish the chocolate shells with
the mixture using a pastry bag.
 CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

It’s the joke we play on all the young, naïve apprentices. PURE CHOCOLATE
I already had the workers laughing with this the first week of my apprenticeship.
The young apprentices go off to look for a curling iron for the parsley but the pastry workers
COOKIE-CUTTER
still have a few tricks of their sleeves…
This little sweet is done in their memory. Nice, huh?

2 1/5lbs Manjari couverture 64% • 3 1/2oz cocoa butter

278

Form tubes with sheets of dipping paper, about

3/8 inch in diameter.
Temper the couverture and fill the pastry bag.
Once filled, tap lightly to get rid of any excess and
make a few back and forth movements across the work
space to add the finishing touches on the inside of
the tubes. Leave to crystallize in the refrigerator. Using
a hot knife, cut into small rings, 3/4 inch high.

COOKIE DOUGH CHANTILLY

7oz butter • 7oz beet sugar • 2oz demerara sugar (soft brown
sugar) • 1 whole egg • 1 tsp whole milk • 3 1/5 cups flour type
45 • 1/3 tsp fine salt • 1 1/3 tsp baking powder • Cinnamon
powder • 1 finely grated orange zest 2 cups whipping cream 40% • 1 2/5oz confectioner’s sugar

Mix the cold butter with the sugars, cinnamon, orange Whip the cream with the confectioner’s sugar.
zest, salt, flour and baking powder then add the eggs Using a pastry bag, garnish the top of the cookies with
and milk. small puffs of chantilly, then “cut” the chantilly with
Roll out to 1/16-1/8 inch. Let sit and harden. the chocolate cookie-cutter.
Freeze and cut into squares 3/4 inch on a side.
Bake at 160-170ºC/320-338ºF, for 15 to 20 minutes
with the steam vent open. Keep in a dry place.
PUZZLE

A marshmallow that reminds us of trendy CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW

candy stores, with a playful, gourmand
appeal.

1lb cassonade amber, or demerara sugar • 2/3 cup mineral

water • 5oz invert sugar • 1 1/4oz gelatin • 7oz invert sugar •
8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • Superfine sugar and
cassonade amber or demerara sugar
279

Soak the gelatin in a large amount of water.

Cook the demerara sugar and 5 ounces of invert sugar
with the water at 110ºC/230ºF.
In a mixing bowl, pour the cooked syrup over the
remaining 7oz of invert sugar.
Drain the gelatin to obtain a weight of 3 3/4 ounces,
melt it in the microwave and pour it over the sugars.
Whip until ribbons form.
When the marshmallow is just warm, add the melted
Araguani chocolate at 60ºC/140ºF, stirring with
a rubber spatula, and quickly move to a pastry bag
to make tubes.
Leave to crystallize overnight and cut tubes
2 3/4 inches long. Tie the tubes in knots and roll
in a mixture of superfine and demerara sugar.
Store in a dry place in sealed containers.
 SYDNEY

An operatic design for a true classic. CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE OPERA GLAZE

Sydney meets Vienna…
SACHERTORTE

15oz almond paste 50% • 4 1/2oz superfine sugar • 7 2/5oz egg

yolks • 5 1/3oz whole eggs • 8 3/4oz egg whites • 4 1/2oz
superfine sugar • 3 1/2oz flour type 45 • 1 3/4oz cocoa powder 8 3/4oz dark chocolate glaze • 3 1/2oz extra bitter chocolate
• 5 1/3oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% • 3 1/2oz liquid butter 67% • 5 1/8 tbsp grapeseed oil
280

Mix the almond paste with 4 1/2oz of sugar Melt all the ingredients together, taking care not
and moisten by adding the yolks and whole eggs, to heat past 45ºC/113ºF.
one by one. Whip until ribbons form. Beat the egg Use between 33-35ºC/91-95ºF. Take the dessert out
whites while adding the remaining sugar, little by of the refrigerator 15 to 20 minutes before applying
little. Sift the cocoa powder and flour together. the glaze.
Separately, melt the couverture and butter at Glaze with a ladle, making sure to remove any excess
50ºC/122ºF. Mix a small amount of the whites with as quickly as possible.
the couverture and melted butter to give it a light, Avoid refreezing once it is glazed.
smooth texture. Add the almond paste mixture It will keep for 3 to 4 days in the refrigerator.
with eggs and yolks. Finally, add the cocoa powder
and flour and finish by mixing in the rest of
the egg whites. Spread out on a tray and bake
at 180-200ºC/356-392ºF, steam vent closed.

Note: calculated for a 12 x 8in frame.

TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE TO SERVE

GANACHE Cut the sachertorte sheet in two. In a 12 x 8 inch
frame, place a first layer of ganache on top, cover
with another sheet of sachertorte and finish with
2 1/2 cups whipping cream 35% • 4 2/5oz invert sugar • a final layer of ganache. Refrigerate so the ganache
26 1/2oz Caraïbe chocolate 66% • 2 3/4oz fresh butter crystallizes properly. Remove the Sydney from its
frame and glaze with the Opera glaze. Cut into
squares 3/4 inch on a side. Temper the Caraïbe
Mix the cream with the invert sugar and bring
couverture. Spread thinly over a plastic sheet. Before
to a boil. Pour gradually over the chopped chocolate
total crystallization occurs, cut into circles 3 inches
to obtain a perfect emulsion, elastic and smooth.
in diameter using a hot pastry-cutter. With the tip
At 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, add the cold butter in cubes.
of a knife, cut the discs into four equal parts. Keep dry
Mix for a few seconds and use immediately.
in a sealed container. Decorate by arranging a little
chocolate platelet on each side of the square.
Be sure to alternate the curves to give it
the unmistakable look of the Sydney opera house.
GOLD BULLION

A sweet that still makes children fantasize CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW

even today, but this one is made for
the grown-ups!

1lb superfine sugar • 2/3 cup mineral water •

5oz invert sugar • 1 1/4oz gelatin • 7oz invert sugar • 8 3/4oz
Guanaja chocolate 70% • Cocoa powder • Equal parts
starch/confectioner’s sugar mixture
281

Soak the gelatin in plenty of water. Cook the superfine

sugar, the 5 ounces of invert sugar and the water
at 110ºC/230ºF.
In a mixing bowl, pour the cooked syrup over
the 7oz of remaining invert sugar.
Drain the gelatin to obtain 3 3/4 ounces, melt in
the microwave and pour over the sugars. Whip until
ribbons form. When the marshmallow is just warm,
fold in the cocoa paste melted at 60ºC/140ºF
and pour as quickly as possible, at a temperature
of 35-40ºC/95-104ºF, into the 7 x 7 inch frames.
Leave to crystallize for 1 to 2 hours and cut with
a guitar cutter into 3/4 inch cubes.
Dust lightly with cocoa powder and apply one face
to a sheet of wet paper then stick a gold leaf sheet
on top. Keep in a dry place.

Note: this recipe is calculated for 3 frames of 7 x 7 inches,

3/4 inch high.
 IRISH COFFEE CUBE

So little, so cute… and so Irish! WHITE CHOCOLATE

SUPPLE SABLÉ
WITH NUTTY PRALINE AND COFFEE CREAM

3/5 cup whole milk • 1/3oz invert sugar • 1/3oz glucose •

10 1/4oz butter • 4oz superfine sugar • 1/3 cup whole milk • 2 tbsp instant coffee • 10 1/2oz Ivoire white couverture •
4 1/4oz praline, 50% nuts • 3 1/8 cups flour type 55 2 cups whipping cream
282

Soften the butter and add the sugar. Beat with a paddle Melt the chocolate at 45-50ºC/113-122ºF.
beater until it whitens. Boil the milk with the invert sugar and glucose.
Meanwhile, warm the milk and mix it vigorously Add the instant coffee.
with the praline to give it an elastic, lustrous texture. Pour gradually over the melted chocolate to give
Add to the whitened butter along with the sifted flour. it an elastic, lustrous texture.
Spread out to a height of 1/8 inch between two sheets Mix for a few seconds.
of dipping paper and freeze. Cut into squares 3/4 inch Add the cold, liquid whipping cream.
on a side and cook on a Silpain baking mat at Mix for a few more seconds
160ºC/320ºF, for 10 to 15 minutes, steam vent open. Refrigerate.

WHISKY GELATIN

1 1/4 cups mineral water • 1 3/4oz superfine sugar •

1/5oz agar agar • 1/14oz (2g) gelatin • 1 3/4oz whisky

Heat the water.

Mix the sugar and agar agar together, soak the gelatin
and combine everything in the water. Bring to a boil.
Add the whisky and pour into 3/4 inch high plastic
trays. Let sit and refrigerate. Cut into beveled squares
and make a hole in the top with the tip of the pastry
bag, taking care not to go deeper than 2/3 inch.
With the edge of a knife, cut the tube on its side
and remove the “cork” of gelatin at the center.
The cavity is now ready to be filled with the coffee
cream.
HIBISCUS VERBENA

Purple flavor, acidic freshness. An energetic touch for a relaxing moment

2 1/3 cups mineral water • Fresh verbena leaves •

2 1/8 cups mineral water • 1/3oz hibiscus flowers • 2 3/4oz 2 3/4oz superfine sugar • 1/10oz pectin NH •
superfine sugar • 1/10oz pectin NH • 2/3oz lemon juice • Dark 2 tsp lemon juice • Dark couverture • 22 1/2oz verbena nectar
couverture • 22 1/2oz hibiscus nectar (about 1/4oz per piece) (about 1/4oz per piece)
283

Bring the water to a boil and add the fried hibiscus Boil the water and steep the verbena leaves for
flowers. Steep for approximately 4 minutes. Strain 4 minutes. Strain through a chinois. Dilute the pectin
through a chinois and add the sugar and pectin with the superfine sugar and add to the boiling water;
mixture. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat, bring back to a boil. Away from heat, add the lemon
add the lemon juice and refrigerate. Temper the dark juice. Refrigerate. Temper the dark couverture
couverture and, using a paper cone, make chocolate and, using a paper cone, make chocolate droplets and
droplets and place a hollow white chocolate ball place a hollow ball of milk chocolate on top of each.
on top of each. Decorate according to personal taste, Decorate according to personal taste, or as is shown
or as shown in the photo. Keep this mise en place in the photo. Keep this mise en place in a dry, sealed
in a dry, sealed container. container.
Before each service, or just before sending it off, fill Before each service, or just before sending it off,
with the hibiscus nectar. Serve very cold. fill with the verbena nectar. Serve very cold.

Note: this recipe is calculated to make about 80 pieces. Note: this recipe is calculated to make about 80 pieces.
 BASIC RECIPES
284

SQUAB STOCK KKO OIL WHITEFISH FUMET

6 5/8lbs squab carcasses • 15 garlic heads • 4 thinly sliced 5 1/2lbs whitefish bones • 3 1/2oz chopped shallots • 1 chopped
shallots • 2 2/3oz butter • 2/5 cup grapeseed oil • 5qt fowl fond leek (green part) •2 3/4oz coarsely chopped carrots •
blanc • 21 1/8oz carrots, coarsely chopped • 5 1/3oz onions • 8 3/4oz Araguani chocolate 72% • 1 3/5 cups grapeseed oil • 3 1/2oz coarsely chopped turnips • 1 ripe tomato •
1 bunch aromatic herbs 3 tbsp toasted sesame oil 1 2/3 cups dry white wine • Salt and freshly ground pepper

Clean the squabs and cut the carcasses into pieces. Melt all the ingredients together, without exceeding In a large pot, combine all the vegetables.
In a skillet, vigorously brown the carcass pieces in a temperature of 40ºC/104ºF. Pour in the white wine and cover with water.
the grapeseed oil. Use at a minimum temperature of 35ºC/95ºF. Heat and season.
When they acquire a golden, uniform color, add the Meanwhile, prepare the fish: cut the dorsal fin into
unpeeled garlic and sweat the mixture, then drain. pieces and halve the head. Wash and add to
Remove excess fat from the carcasses and return to Now here’s an original idea. the boiling stock.
the hot skillet with the butter, vegetables, and I always dreamed of making chocolate mayonnaise! Simmer for approximately 1 hour, skimming from
aromatic herbs. Stir constantly to deglaze. The process was slow going, but worth it. time to time.
Trim excess fat again, then deglaze with a small We tried practically everything but unfortunately Strain through a chinois, then again through an
amount of fond blanc; reduce to a demi-glace so that the infusions and marinades of nibs in oil were never etamine, and reduce by half to obtain 2/3 to 6/7 cup
it coats the pieces of squab carcass. Cover with water satisfying, or surprising for that matter. of fumet in the end.
and reduce again. On the occasions when it did surprise us, it was Refrigerate.
Add the remaining ingredients and reduce to make because it was not very good.
a syrupy juice, then clarify. Refrigerate. After many attempts, the winning idea was finally
to dissolve the chocolate in neutral oil.
It’s a preparation that you will find in many of
our recipes.
 FLAVOR COMBINATIONS
HORS D’ŒUVRES
285

PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUNG DRÔME GUINEA

DISH SMOKED GANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY FOWL IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL
PANCETTA AND TAHITIAN VANILLA

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS GUANAJA 70% GUANAJA 70%

KIND DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH LEAN PANCETTA GUINEA FOWL

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES — —
DOMINANT FLAVORS GRENOBLE WALNUT DILL, SHISHO,
TAHITIAN VANILLA

DISH APSWEET CHOCOMOLE THE MUMS SANDWICH GRAVLAX SALMON,

CUMIN-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE,
SWEET AND SOUR RED CABBAGE

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS HAZELNUT PRALINE 60% CACAO NIBS, KKO OIL
KIND — DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH CHINESE FLAT NOODLES SALMON

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES RED CHARLES SALAD RED CABBAGE

DOMINANT FLAVORS AVOCADO, BALSAMIC VINEGAR, CUMIN,

RED AND GREEN TABASCO, POWDERED MUSTARD,
TOMATO CONCENTRATE CORIANDER SEEDS

DISH CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRAS

MORSELS, HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBIS
MAURY WINE GELATIN

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72%

KIND DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH GOOSE FOIE GRAS

HOT / COLD COLD
SIDES KADAÏF DOUGH

DOMINANT FLAVORS MAURY WINE

 COLD APPETIZERS
286

DISH QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILK NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE
CHOCOLATE, TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH AND CARAWAY, SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR
FRESH HERBS, AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH BERGERON APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISP
PURPLE BASIL LACE OF TOASTED BREAD

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS JIVARA 40% MANJARI 64% ARAGUANI 72%
KIND MILK DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH TOMATOES, CELERY FOIE GRAS

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES BREAD APRICOTS, RAISINS, TOASTED BREAD

DOMINANT FLAVORS TABASCO, MAURY WINE

PURPLE BASIL

DISH BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATE SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATER
SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS, CHOCOLATE
PEPPER, CRISPY RICE, CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE CHANTILLY WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS IVOIRE 40% KKO OIL MANJARI 64%
KIND WHITE DARK DARK
MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH BLUEFIN TUNA CRAB
HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES CRISPY FRIED RICE SEA LETTUCE TEMPURA

DOMINANT FLAVORS CITRUS, TOMATOES,

JAPANESE SANCHO, PIQUILLO PEPPERS,
YUZU, MATCHA GREEN TEA SWEET CHORIZO

DISH FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCK

SHAVINGS WITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKS
IN SOY VINAIGRETTE

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72%

KIND DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH HADDOCK

HOT / COLD HOT / COLD
SIDES BLANCHED LEEKS

DOMINANT FLAVORS SOY SAUCE,

PINK PEPPER
 HOT APPETIZERS
287

ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME,
DISH SPICED AND MILK CHOCOLATES, GINGER AND SOY SAUCE
PARMESAN TUILES

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS JIVARA 40% XOCOPILI 72% PUR CARAÏBE 66%
KIND MILK DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH SMOKED RACK OF PORK DUCK

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES PARMESAN TUILES SOYBEAN SPROUTS

DOMINANT FLAVORS ANIS, TOASTED SESAME,

PARMESAN GINGER

DISH RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE, MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICY
VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ, SPRING RAIN CRISP
TRUFFLE, IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72% XOCOPILI 72% JIVARA 40%
KIND DARK DARK MILK
MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH OXTAIL MUSSELS
HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES CARROTS, BEANS SOY VERMICELLI

DOMINANT FLAVORS RICHERENCES TRUFFLE, COCONUT MILK,

VEGETABLES BOMBAY CURRY

ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE,
DISH BEIGNETS OF PIKE QUENELLES,
CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTED
PORCINI MUSHROOMS, CRISPY CHOCOLATE LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS
CARAMEL LEAVES

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS PUR CARAÏBE 66% ARAGUANI 72% JIVARA 40%
KIND DARK DARK LAIT

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH GRAZAC ESCARGOTS CRAYFISH

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES FRESH ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS PIKE QUENELLES

DOMINANT FLAVORS PINE NEEDLES, COGNAC,

DRIED PORCINIS, ESPELETTE PEPPER
CARAMEL
 WATER
288

LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITH
DISH AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND LEMONGRASS, SWEET AND SOUR MANGO
CHOCOLATE, POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, JULIENNE, ORANGE-PERFUMED CHOCOLATE
RED PEPPER CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS MANJARI 64% MANJARI 64% GRUÉ DE CACAO

KIND DARK DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH NORWAY LOBSTER BAY SCALLOPS

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES POLENTA FINGERS, LEEKS MANGO JULIENNE

DOMINANT FLAVORS RED PEPPERS, CARAMEL, GINGER,

SWEET PAPRIKA, ORANGE, LEMONGRASS,
SAFFRON CUBEB PEPPER, PRALINE

DISH A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITE
TOASTED PINE NUTS, PASSION FRUIT CHOCOLATE WITH LEMON AND VERBENA,
AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72% IVOIRE 40%

KIND DARK WHITE

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH RED GURNARD LOBSTER

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES TOASTED PINE NUTS FRESH SPINACH

DOMINANT FLAVORS VANILLA, PASSION FRUIT, LEMON LEAVES, LEMON JUICE,

GINGER, TAMARIND LEMON ZEST, FRESH VERBENA

GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED TWO STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP
DISH SKIN, CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE, LAÏ CHU
CHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHA
SAFFRON FRAGRANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE REDUCTION AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN
PEPPER

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS JIVARA 40% MANJARI 64% KKO OIL
KIND MILK DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH RED MULLET COD

HOT / COLD HOT HOT

SIDES MARBLED COCOA LASAGNE SEA LETTUCE, NEW GARLIC CHIPS

DOMINANT FLAVORS LIME ZEST, SZECHUAN PEPPER,

LA MANCHA SAFFRON LAÏ CHU RICE WINE
 289

TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATE SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAO
POLENTA, SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE, AND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS
FOAMY FUMET OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED
CHOCOLATE FLAKES

ARAGUANI 72% XOCOPILI 72% GUANAJA 70% CACAO NIBS

DARK DARK DARK DARK

TURBOT SCALLOPS
HOT HOT
CHOCOLATE POLENTA, TARO FENNEL
AND TAMARILLO BRUNOISE
PISTACHIO, CARDAMOM, LONG PEPPER, PISTACHIO,
PAPRIKA, RED CURRY… LEAN PANCETTA, FENNEL SEEDS

PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED
GARLIC, COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME, MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE
FOAMY CACAO NIB STOCK AND MEAUX MUSTARD BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS

GUANAJA 70% CACAO NIBS GUANAJA 70% NUTTY PRALINE 50%

DARK DARK DARK —
FROG LEGS MONKFISH CHEEKS AND LIVER
HOT HOT
POTATO PUREE, GREEN BEANS PUFF PASTRY, PEAS
WILD THYME, MEAUX MUSTARD GRAINS
CACAO NIB INFUSION
 EARTH
290

FILET OF VENISON BREADED L’ÀNGLAISE, PURPLE GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE
DISH PURÉE AND CELERIAC, SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE WITH FRESH SAGE, HERB POTATO
GRIOTTE CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE TRANSPARENCY AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS PUR CARAÏBE 66% PUR CARAÏBE 66%

KIND DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH VENISON LAMB

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES PURPLE PUREE POTATO TRANSPARENCY, ASPARAGUS,
AND CELERIAC PURPLE ARTICHOKES
DOMINANT FLAVORS GRIOTTE CHERRIES, FRESH SAGE,
CORNAS WINE (O7) FLAT PARSLEY

DISH VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDS
AND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND CHUTNEY, SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES,
WHITE GRAPES WITH RUM LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE AND VIOLET MUSTARD

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS PUR CARAÏBE 66% ARAGUANI 72%

KIND DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH VEAL SHANK FOWL FOIES BLONDS

HOT / COLD HOT HOT
SIDES — CRANBERRIES

DOMINANT FLAVORS TAHITIAN VANILLA, RUM, SHALLOTS,

WHOLE ALMONDS, WINE
RAISINS

MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS, FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET AND
DISH SOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASSALA
VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH
CHOCOLATE SAUCE, BEAN SPROUTS

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72% CACAO NIBS MANJARI 64% JIVARA 40%

KIND DARK DARK DARK MILK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH MALLARD PORK FILET MIGNON

HOT / COLD HOT HOT

SIDES CARROTS, DAIKON RADISHES, ROASTED PINEAPPLE, BEAN SPROUTS
ZUCCHINI, PATTYPAN SQUASH
DOMINANT FLAVORS CACAO NIBS, GARAM MASSALA
RED WINE
 291

SYLVAIN VERGNES’ PORK KNUCKLES WITH SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ON
CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES THE BONE, SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF
PASTRY AND BRAISED ENDIVES

GUANAJA 70% GUANAJA 70%

DARK DARK

PORK KNUCKLE SQUAB OF BRESSE

HOT HOT
LEEKS, CELERY, CARROTS, PUFF PASTRY,
JAUNE BOULD D’OR TURNIPS, POTATOES BRAISED ENDIVES
TOASTED EARS OF WHEAT, JUS REDUCTION,
HAY, WHITE WINE
SPELT WHEAT

DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATE
PISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT
JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM

ARAGUANI 72% ARAGUANI 72%

DARK DARK

DUCK BEEF RACK OF RIBS

HOT HOT
SICILIAN PISTACHIOS JULIENNED CARROTS
FRESH AND COFFEE,
DRIED APRICOTS ORANGE ZEST,
CARDAMOM

ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITH

PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED WITH CHOCOLATE, CACAO NIBS, CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND
BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILD ROSEMARY RABBIT JUS EMULSIFIED WITH
MUSHROOMS CHOCOLATE

GUANAJA 70% CACAO NIBS KKO OIL

DARK DARK DARK

HARE RABBIT

HOT HOT
BRAISED CELERY, SWEATED SPINACH, SNOW PEAS,
SAUTÉED WILD MUSHROOMS RATTES POTATOES
RED WINE ROSEMARY
 CHEESES
292

CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT AND PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OF
DISH CACAO NIBS, CURED WITH WHISKY LEMPS IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH WALNUTS
AND SAUTÉED, WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY
HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE LEAVES

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS CACAO NIBS GUANAJA 70%

KIND DARK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH CAMEMBERT PICODON OF ARDÈCHE

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES RAISINS, DRIED APRICOTS, ENDIVES, CURED HAM
ALMONDS
DOMINANT FLAVORS WHISKY GRENOBLE WALNUTS

SWEET DELIGHTS
MONT BLANC CLUB GIN TONIC
DISH

PUR CARAÏBE 66% IVOIRE 40% IVOIRE 40%

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS
KIND DARK WHITE WHITE

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH CHESTNUTS, CELERY STALKS GRAPEFRUITS

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES CHOCOLATE DACQUOISE CARAMELIZED PHYLLO DOUGH

DOMINANT FLAVORS ALMONDS, GIN

CHOCOLATE

DISH THE BLACK FOREST…IN’ NIPPON

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS ARAGUANI 72% CACAO EN POUDRE TANARIVA 33% IVOIRE 40%

KIND DARK DARK MILK WHITE

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH WOLFBERGER GRIOTISSIMO CHERRIES FROZEN CHOCOLATE PARFAIT

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES VANILLA CREAM FRESH LYCHEES

DOMINANT FLAVORS ALSATIAN KIRSCH GINGER,

TOASTED SESAME
 293

CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORT

NUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH
BANANAS, FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE
OIL VINAIGRETTE

ARAGUANI 72% KKO OIL

DARK DARK

ROQUEFORT PAPILLON
HOT
DWARF CAVENDISH BANANAS,
FICOIDE GLACIALE
CHEESE

KOUIKARAS ISLAND THE NEW WORLD THE MILKY WAY

GUANAJA 70% GUANAJA 70%, JIVARA 40% GIANDUJA

MANJARI 64% ARAGUANI 72%
DARK DARK MILK DARK MILK
FLOATING ISLAND, CHOCOLATE TRIO RAW MILK
CHOCOLATE CREAM
COLD COLD COLD
FRIED KOUIKARAS DOUGH VINE PEACHES FRESH RASPBERRIES

PURE CHOCOLATE HONEY, CORIANDER SEEDS

MENTON LEMON,
LAVENDER
 MIGNARDISES
294

GOLD BULLION LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE “WHITES”

DISH

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS GUANAJA 70% IVOIRE 40% CARAÏBE 66%

KIND DARK WHITE DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH MARSHMALLOW WHITE CHOCOLATE

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES — —

DOMINANT FLAVORS — LICORICE POWDER

DISH IRISH COFFEE CUBE CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS IVOIRE 40% NUTTY PRALINE 50% MANJARI 64%
KIND WHITE — DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH WHISKY CHOCOLAT

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES — SPECULOS COOKIE DOUGH
DOMINANT FLAVORS COFFEE CINNAMON,
DEMERARA SUGAR

VERBENA
DISH OVALIS TONKA

CHOCOLATES AND DERIVATIVE PRODUCTS HOLLOW CHOCOLATE BALLS TANARIVA 33% CACAO NIBS

KIND MILK MILK DARK

MAIN INGREDIENT OF DISH VERBENA TONKA BEAN CARAMEL

HOT / COLD COLD COLD
SIDES — CACAO NIB NOUGATINE
DOMINANT FLAVORS LEMON JUICE CARAMEL
 295

SYDNEY HIBISCUS PUZZLE

PUR CARAÏBE 66% EXTRA BITTER 67% HOLLOW CHOCOLATE BALLS ARAGUANI 72%
DARK DARK WHITE DARK

CHOCOLATE HIBISCUS MARSHMALLOW

COLD COLD COLD
— — —

— LEMON JUICE DEMERARA SUGAR

 PREPARATION INDEX
296

BREADS 127 SPRING RAIN CRISP FRUITS

82 BAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS 130 SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES APRICOTS; CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR
216
97 BREAD; CRISP LACE OF TOASTED 93 TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS APRICOTS AND RAISINS; GASTRIQUE OF
97
93 BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS; TOASTED 268 ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATE SPHERES AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE; CRUSHED
79
71 WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA 243 BANANAS; SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH
CHEESES 100 WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA 248 CHESTNUT CREAM AND FRESH CHESTNUTS
234 CAMEMBERT AND SANCHO PEPPER CITRUS JUICE; EXOTIC
101
238 PICODONS 261 WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA 234 DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY
242 ROQUEFORT; CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH AND TOASTED SESAME 252 GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC; CREAMY
253 GRAPEFRUIT SEMI-CONFIT; MOSAIC OF
COMPOTES AND PURÉES FILLINGS 185 GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE;
83 COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS; SWEET 268 ALMOND STREUSEL SHALLOT AND
AND SOUR RED CABBAGE 174 CREAMY HEART OF DARK CHOCOLATE 185 GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE
185 COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE; SHALLOT 234 DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY AND CHOCOLATE
AND GRIOTTE CHERRY 118 DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME 260 LYCHEES WITH GINGER CARAMEL; FRESH
97 GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS AND RAISINS 216 FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS, SAUTÉED
185 GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE DUCK CANNELLONI MANGO JULIENNE; SWEET AND SOUR
147
AND CHOCOLATE 228 FILLING; THE RABBIT AND 265 ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH
174 MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG 238 WALNUT GANACHE 150 PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE
184 PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM; CELERIAC 269 PEACHES PRICKED WITH FRESH LAVENDER;
179 PURÉE; "GREEN PEACE" (SWEET PEAS) FISH BROCHETTES OF VINE
185 PURÉE; PURPLE (RED BEET) 162 COD (COOKING THE FISH) 204 PINEAPPLE; SWEET AND SOUR ROAST
273 PURÉE; RASPBERRY 162 COD FUMET 273 RASPBERRY PURÉE
141 TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA; RED PEPPER 162 COD SKIN GAUFRETTES 238 WALNUT GANACHE
174 FROG AND THE STOCK
CREAMY PREPARATIONS 175 FROG LEGS WITH TOASTED CORN FLOUR; GELATINS
277 CARAMEL; TONKA BEAN BREADED 272 DARK CHOCOLATE GELATIN
248 CREAM; CHESTNUT 166 FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO; CREAMY, 268 DIAMOND GELATIN OF MENTON LEMON
283 CREAM; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE FOAMY AND HONEY
248 CREAM WITH CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE 163 FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER; CREAMY MAURY GELATIN
86
252 CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC 109 HADDOCK; PLEATED 272 RAW MILK GELATIN
79 CRUSHED AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE 179 MONKFISH LIVER AND CHEEKS; SAUTÉED 268 SUPPLE GELATIN "GRAND CRU"
96 GANACHE 135 PIKE QUENELLES; BEIGNETS OF 104 TOMATO WATER GELATIN
70 GANACHE; SMOKED 150 RED GURNARD WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS
280 GANACHE; TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE 158 RED MULLETS AND FUMET 282 WHISKY GELATIN
238 GANACHE; WALNUT 82 SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED BY GRAVLAX
96 NOUGAT OF FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE 100 TUNA TATAKI HOT AND COLD SAUCES
79 PRALINE CREAM WITH BALSAMIC NOTES 166 TURBOT 217 BÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE
78 PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO 179 BÉCHAMEL… BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX
108 TOFU OF CHOCOLATE FOAMY PREPARATIONS MUSTARD
278 CHANTILLY 146 CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE
DECORATIVE ELEMENTS 257 CHANTILLY WITH KIRSCH 221 CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE
114 BITTER CHOCOLATE CURLS WITH ROASTED 265 CREAM WITH ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE 208 CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT SAUCE
PARMESAN 163 CREAMY FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER 75 CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID
269 CACAO NIB NOUGATINE 166 CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET AND FUMET 163 CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE (ALMOST
277 CACAO NIB NOUGATINE WITH PISTACHIO MAYONNAISE), LAÏ CHU REDUCTION
257 CHOCOLATE PANELS 171 FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE 83 CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE… JUST AS I HAD
260 COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE WITH FENNEL SEEDS DREAMT OF IT BEFORE
162 COD SKIN GAUFRETTES 93 FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL; VEGETABLE 242 CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE (FOR COATING)
87 CRISPY BALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF 104 GANACHE "CHANTILLY" OF CRAB 188 CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE
239 CRISPY HAM AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED 224 COOKING JUICES OF THE HARE, EMULSIFIED
142 CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE 256 GANACHE; WHIPPED DARK CHOCOLATE WITH CHOCOLATE
105 CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES 272 MOUSSE AND CREAM; CHOCOLATE-CORIANDER 252 CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC
280 OPERA GLAZE 86 MOUSSE; HOT CHOCOLATE 201 DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE
115 PARMESAN TUILES 276 MOUSSE; LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITE 159 EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET
188 POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS CHOCOLATE WITH LEMON ZESTS AND SAFFRON
278 PURE CHOCOLATE COOKIE-CUTTER 253 MOUSSE; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA 204 GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE
147 SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES 155 ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON AND FRESH VERBENA; 92 GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES
71 SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WHITE CHOCOLATE 119 GINGER SOY SAUCE
WITH WALNUTS 260 PARFAIT; FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATE 283 HIBISCUS NECTAR
 297

134 NANTUA SAUCE; FOAMY SAVORY DOUGHS 256 GÉNOISE CAKE WITH CACAO AND ALMONDS
150 PASSION FRUIT AND 200 CRUST; CACAO NIBS AND SALT 264 KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER
CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE 178 INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS 279 MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE
130 PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE 118 PASTILLES 281 MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE
229 RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY 212 PUFF PASTRY BASES 252 PHYLLO CRISPS
140 SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER 196 SOUFFLÉ DOUGH 272 SABLÉ OF ALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILK
140 SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU CHOCOLATE; COMPRESSED
CHOCOLATE AND CORAL SHELLFISH 282 SABLÉ WITH NUTTY PRALINE; SUPPLE
108 SOY VINAIGRETTE 146 BAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMONGRASS 276 SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE
126 SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ 140 CORAL; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND 280 SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE
213 SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE CRU CHOCOLATE AND
269 TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE 104 CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED GANACHE VEGETABLES
192 VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE; VEAL SHANK WITH "CHANTILLY" OF 159 ASPARAGUS; BOILED
283 VERBENA NECTAR 104 CRAB WITH FUMET; SHREDDED 170 BABY FENNEL "AU BLANC"
134 CRAYFISH FUMET 204 BEAN SPROUTS; SAUTÉED
MEATS 154 LOBSTERS AND FUMET; THE 220 CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM
131 ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES; GRAZAC 126 MUSSELS 225 CELERIAC; BRAISED
224 HARE À LA ROYALE 140 NORWAY LOBSTER; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF 184 CELERIAC PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM
188 LAMB 142 NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS 248 CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH
188 LAMB JUS 170 SCALLOPS "SURF AND TURF"; BREADED 249 CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED
122 OXTAIL (COOKING THE MEAT) IN LIGHT CITRUS SYRUP
204 PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE SIDES 239 ENDIVE LEAVES
208 PORK KNUCKLES 170 BABY FENNEL "AU BLANC" 212 ENDIVES; BRAISED
228 RABBIT; SADDLE OF 220 CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM 92 GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES
114 RACK OF PORK; ANISE-SMOKED 142 CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE 119 GINGER SOY SAUCE
220 SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK 158 MARBLED LASAGNE 179 "GREEN PEACE" PURÉE (SWEET PEAS)
192 VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE 142 POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON 217 GREEN PEAS; TENDER
184 VENISON BREADED À L'ANGLAISE 163 SEA LETTUCE LEAVES 142 LEEK JULIENNE; CRISPY
189 SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS 224 MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTER WITH FRESH
PASTA AND CEREALS AND ASPARAGUS) SPINACH LEAVES; SEASONAL
216 CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS 229 SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES, 130 PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE
158 LASAGNE; MARBLED SNOW PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT) 131 PORCINIS; SAUTÉED
105 NOODLES; CRISPY PAPRIKA 147 SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE 188 POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS
167 POLENTA; CHOCOLATE 167 TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS, 174 POTATOES WITH FROG; MASHED
142 POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON RAPESEED OIL 185 PURPLE PURÉE (RED BEET)
123 RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE 201 VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH 83 RED CABBAGE COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER
135 RISOTTO; GREEN SEEDS; SWEET AND SOUR
114 RISOTTO; MILK CHOCOLATE AND ANISE STOCKS AND JUS 141 RED PEPPER TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA
78 SQUARES; CRISPY 162 FUMET; COD 163 SEA LETTUCE LEAVES
101 SUSHI; FRIED 134 FUMET; CRAYFISH 185 SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE
208 WHEAT SAUCE; CHOCOLATE AND 154 FUMET; LOBSTER WITH CORNAS WINE
158 FUMET; RED MULLETS AND 189 SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS
POULTRY 104 FUMET; SHREDDED CRAB WITH AND ASPARAGUS)
216 CANETTE FILETS; ROASTED 229 JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY; RABBIT 208 SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE PORK KNUCKLES
201 DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE 201 JUS WITH CHOCOLATE; DUCK 108 SOY VINAIGRETTE
86 FOIE GRAS; CRISPY MORSELS OF 188 JUS; LAMB 119 SOYBEAN SPROUTS
96 FOIE WITH SALT; MARINATED 175 STOCK PERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS; 155 SPINACH WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER;
197 FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN FOAMY FROG SAUTÉED FRESH
74 GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS 126 STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK; 108 SPRING LEEKS
AND VANILLA; SUPRÊMES OF POACHED VEGETABLE 167 TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS,
200 MALLARD FILETS 122 STOCK WITH TRUFFLE; VEGETABLE RAPESEED OIL
213 SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE 174 STOCK; FROG AND THE 78 TOMATO; PRALINE CREAM WITH
213 SQUABS 220 STOCK; SPARE RIBS WITH 79 TOMATO WATER
79 WATER; TOMATO 93 VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL
REDUCTIONS 126 VEGETABLE STOCK WITH CURRY AND
101 JUICE; EXOTIC CITRUS SWEET DOUGHS COCONUT MILK
163 REDUCTION; LAÏ CHU 260 CIGARETTE PASTE; COCOA 122 VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE
147 SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE 278 COOKIE DOUGH 201 VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH
249 SYRUP; CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED 248 DACQUOISE; CHOCOLATE 229 VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT
IN LIGHT CITRUS 265 FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER (POTATOES, SNOW PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT)
 ALPHABETICAL INDEX
298

148 A BIT LIKE A MOLE… OF RED GURNARD, TOASTED PINE 83 COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS; SWEET 134 FUMET; CRAYFISH
NUTS, PASSION FRUIT AND TAMARIND CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND SOUR RED CABBAGE 154 FUMET; LOBSTER
222 ADAPTATION OF HARE À LA ROYALE, SERVED IN 185 COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE; SHALLOT 158 FUMET; RED MULLETS AND
PANNEQUETS AND LACQUERED WITH CHOCOLATE, AND GRIOTTE CHERRY 104 FUMET; SHREDDED CRAB WITH
BRAISED CELERIAC, SAUTÉED SPINACH AND WILD 278 COOKIE DOUGH 166 FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO; CREAMY, FOAMY
MUSHROOMS 224 COOKING JUICES OF THE HARE, EMULSIFIED 163 FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER; CREAMY
268 ALMOND STREUSEL WITH CHOCOLATE 96 GANACHE
113 ANISE-SMOKED RACK OF PORK RISOTTO, SPICED AND MILK 140 CORAL; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU 70 GANACHE; SMOKED
216 CHOCOLATES, PARMESAN TUILES CHOCOLATE AND 280 GANACHE; TENDER CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE
APRICOTS; CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR 104 CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET; WHIPPED GANACHE 238 GANACHE; WALNUT
97 APRICOTS AND RAISINS; GASTRIQUE OF «CHANTILLY» OF 256 GANACHE; WHIPPED DARK CHOCOLATE
76 APSWEET CHOCOMOLE 104 CRAB WITH FUMET; SHREDDED 104 GANACHE «CHANTILLY» OF CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET;
159 ASPARAGUS; BOILED 134 CRAYFISH FUMET WHIPPED
79 AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE; CRUSHED 248 CREAM; CHESTNUT 204 GARAM MASALA CHOCOLATE SAUCE
170 BABY FENNEL «AU BLANC» 283 CREAM; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COFFEE 97 GASTRIQUE OF APRICOTS AND RAISINS
82 BAGUETTES OF CACAO NIBS 248 CREAM WITH CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE 92 GAZPACHO OF TWO CHOCOLATES
243 BANANAS; SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH 265 CREAM WITH ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE 256 GÉNOISE CAKE WITH CACAO AND ALMONDS
146 BAY SCALLOPS WITH LEMONGRASS 133 CREAMY DOMBES CRAYFISH NANTUA SAUCE, BEIGNETS 251 GIN TONIC
204 BEAN SPROUTS; SAUTÉED OF PIKE QUENELLES, LIGHTLY SAUTÉED CRAYFISH TAILS 119 GINGER SOY SAUCE
217 BÉARNAISE… WITH CHOCOLATE 166 CREAMY, FOAMY FUMET AND FUMET WITH PISTACHIO 281 GOLD BULLION
179 BÉCHAMEL… BUT WITH CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD 163 CREAMY FUMET WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER 252 GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC; CREAMY
114 BITTER CHOCOLATE CURLS WITH ROASTED PARMESAN 252 CREAMY GRAPEFRUIT GIN TONIC 253 GRAPEFRUIT SEMI-CONFIT; MOSAIC OF
98 BLUEFIN TUNA TATAKI, WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS 174 CREAMY HEART OF DARK CHOCOLATE 179 «GREEN PEACE» PURÉE (SWEET PEAS)
WITH MATCHA TEA AND SANCHO PEPPER, CRISPY RICE, 87 CRISPY BALLS OF SPICED KADAÏF 217 GREEN PEAS; TENDER
CITRUS AND YUZU JUICE 240 CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH ROQUEFORT 157 GRILLED RED MULLET FILETS, EMULSIFIED
218 BRAISED SALERS BEEF SPARE RIBS, CHOCOLATE SAUCE NUGGETS, SAUTÉED DWARF CAVENDISH BANANAS, TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET, LEMON AND LA MANCHA
WITH MEXICAN COFFEE, CARROT JULIENNE FICOIDE GLACIALE, CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE SAFFRON FRAGANCES, MARBLED LASAGNE
WITH CARDAMOM 239 CRISPY HAM 187 GRILLED RÉMUZAT LAMB FILET, CHOCOLATE SAUCE
97 BREAD; CRISP LACE OF TOASTED 142 CRISPY LEEK JULIENNE WITH FRESH SAGE, HERB POTATO TRANSPARENCY
93 BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS; TOASTED 105 CRISPY PAPRIKA NOODLES AND CRISP BABY VEGETABLES
269 CACAO NIB NOUGATINE 79 CRUSHED AVOCADO OR GUACAMOLE 185 GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE WITH CORNAS WINE;
277 CACAO NIB NOUGATINE 200 CRUST; CACAO NIBS AND SALT SHALLOT AND
234 CAMEMBERT 248 DACQUOISE; CHOCOLATE 185 GRIOTTE CHERRY SAUCE WITH CORNAS WINE
233 CAMEMBERT TRUFFLED WITH DRIED FRUIT 272 DARK CHOCOLATE GELATIN AND CHOCOLATE
AND CACAO NIBS, CURED WITH WHISKY 268 DIAMOND GELATIN OF MENTON LEMON AND HONEY 74 GUINEA FOWL WITH AROMATIC HERBS AND VANILLA;
216 CANETTE FILETS; ROASTED 234 DRIED FRUIT WITH CACAO NIBS AND WHISKY SUPRÊMES OF POACHED
216 CANNELLONI WITH SWEET AND SOUR APRICOTS 214 DUCK CANNELLONI FILLED WITH APRICOTS 109 HADDOCK; PLEATED
277 CARAMEL; TONKA BEAN AND PISTACHIOS, CHOCOLATE ALMOST BÉARNAISE 224 HARE À LA ROYALE
146 CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE SAUCE 118 DUCK FILLING WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME 283 HIBISCUS
220 CARROT JULIENNE WITH CARDAMOM 201 DUCK JUS WITH CHOCOLATE 283 HIBISCUS NECTAR
225 CELERIAC; BRAISED 116 DUCK PASTILLE WITH CHOCOLATE AND SESAME, 176 IN A PUFF PASTRY JEWEL BOX, SAUTÉED MONKFISH
184 CELERIAC PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM GINGER AND SOY SAUCE CHEEKS AND LIVER, CHOCOLATE AND MEAUX MUSTARD
248 CELERY JUICE; WHITE CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH 159 EMULSIFIED TWO CHOCOLATE FUMET WITH LEMON BÉCHAMEL, PURÉED PEAS
249 CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED IN LIGHT ZESTS AND SAFFRON 178 INVERTED PUFF PASTRY MORSELS
CITRUS SYRUP 239 ENDIVE LEAVES 282 IRISH COFFEE CUBE
278 CHANTILLY 212 ENDIVES; BRAISED 101 JUICE; EXOTIC CITRUS
278 CHANTILLY COOKIE-CUTTER 131 ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES; GRAZAC 188 JUS; LAMB
257 CHANTILLY WITH KIRSCH 107 FAUX TOFU OF CHOCOLATE, WARM HADDOCK SHAVINGS 201 JUS WITH CHOCOLATE; DUCK
85 CHAUD-FROID OF SAUTÉED GOOSE FOIE GRAS MORSELS, WITH PINK PEPPER, SPRING LEEKS IN SOY VINAIGRETTE 229 JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY; RABBIT
HOT CHOCOLATE MOUSSE AND RUBIS MAURY WINE 203 FILET MIGNON OF JODHPUR PORK, SWEET 264 KOUIKARAS DOUGH WITH ORANGE FLOWER
GELATIN AND SOUR ROAST PINEAPPLE, GARAM MASALA 263 KOUIKARAS ISLAND
248 CHESTNUT CREAM AND FRESH CHESTNUTS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, A FEW BEAN SPROUTS 276 LADDER FOR CLIMBING THE «WHITES»
221 CHOCOLATE AND MEXICAN COFFEE SAUCE 182 FILET OF VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE, PURPLE 188 LAMB
208 CHOCOLATE AND WHEAT SAUCE AND CELERIAC PURÉES, SWEET AND SOUR GRIOTTE 188 LAMB JUS
75 CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID CHERRY AND CHOCOLATE SAUCE 158 LASAGNE; MARBLED
163 CHOCOLATE HOLLANDAISE (ALMOST MAYONNAISE), 216 FILLED WITH APRICOTS AND PISTACHIOS, 142 LEEK JULIENNE; CRISPY
LAÏ CHU REDUCTION DUCK CANNELLONI 138 LIGHTLY GRILLED NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS, SAUCE
83 CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE… JUST AS I HAD DREAMT 228 FILLING; THE RABBIT AND AMÉRICAINE THICKENED WITH CORAL AND CHOCOLATE,
OF IT BEFORE 265 FIRM EGG WHITES WITH ORANGE FLOWER POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON, BELL PEPPER
242 CHOCOLATE OIL VINAIGRETTE (FOR COATING) 171 FOAM OF CACAO NIBS AND CHOCOLATE CONFIT TAPENADE AND CRISPY LEEKS
257 CHOCOLATE PANELS WITH FENNEL SEEDS 154 LOBSTERS AND FUMET; THE
188 CHOCOLATE-SAGE SAUCE 93 FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL; VEGETABLE 260 LYCHEES WITH GINGER CARAMEL; FRESH SAUTÉED
260 CIGARETTE PASTE; COCOA 86 FOIE GRAS; CRISPY MORSELS OF 198 MALLARD FILET ENCRUSTED WITH CACAO NIBS,
101 CITRUS JUICE; EXOTIC 96 FOIE WITH SALT; MARINATED VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE AND PATTYPAN SQUASH
260 COCOA CIGARETTE PASTE 197 FOIES BLONDS WITH LIE DE VIN 200 MALLARD FILETS
162 COD (COOKING THE FISH) 174 FROG AND THE STOCK 147 MANGO JULIENNE; SWEET AND SOUR
162 COD FUMET 175 FROG LEGS WITH TOASTED CORN FLOUR; BREADED 158 MARBLED LASAGNE
162 COD SKIN GAUFRETTES 162 FUMET; COD 279 MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE
 299

281 MARSHMALLOW; CHOCOLATE 273 PURÉE; RASPBERRY 213 SQUABS

174 MASHED POTATOES WITH FROG 184 PURÉE WITH CARAMELIZED CREAM; CELERIAC 78 SQUARES; CRISPY
86 MAURY GELATIN 185 PURPLE PURÉE (RED BEET) 160 STEAMED COD FILET, GARLIC CHIPS AND CRISP SKIN,
179 MONKFISH LIVER AND CHEEKS; SAUTÉED 279 PUZZLE CHOCOLATE QUASI-MAYONNAISE, LAÏ CHU REDUCTION
246 MONT BLANC CLUB 90 QUASI-GAZPACHO OF DARK AND MILK CHOCOLATE, AND FOAMY FUMET OF SZECHUAN PEPPER
86 MOUSSE; HOT CHOCOLATE TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS, 174 STOCK; FROG AND THE
276 MOUSSE; LICORICE-PERFUMED WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL 220 STOCK; SPARE RIBS WITH
253 MOUSSE; WHITE CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA 228 RABBIT; SADDLE OF 175 STOCK PERFUMED WITH CACAO NIBS; FOAMY FROG
272 MOUSSE AND CREAM; CHOCOLATE-CORIANDER 229 RABBIT JUS WITH CHOCOLATE AND ROSEMARY 126 STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK; VEGETABLE
224 MUSHROOMS SWEAT IN BUTTER WITH FRESH SPINACH 114 RACK OF PORK; ANISE-SMOKED 122 STOCK WITH TRUFFLE; VEGETABLE
LEAVES; SEASONAL 273 RASPBERRY PURÉE 227 STUFFED SADDLE OF RABBIT TRUFFLED WITH CACAO
126 MUSSELS 123 RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE NIBS, CRISP BABY VEGETABLES AND ROSEMARY JUS
125 MUSSELS WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK, SPICY 121 RAVIOLI OF SHREDDED OXTAIL AND CHOCOLATE, EMULSIFIED WITH CHOCOLATE
CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ, SPRING RAIN CRISP VEGETABLE STOCK WITH RICHERENCHES TRUFFLE, 268 SUPPLE GELATIN «GRAND CRU»
134 NANTUA SAUCE; FOAMY IN DRÔME PROVENÇALE 168 SURF AND TURF SCALLOPS BREADED IN CACAO
259 NIPPON 272 RAW MILK GELATIN AND PISTACHIOS, NIB FOAM WITH FENNEL SEEDS
105 NOODLES; CRISPY PAPRIKA 83 RED CABBAGE COMPOTE WITH CORIANDER SEEDS; 101 SUSHI; FRIED
140 NORWAY LOBSTER; SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF SWEET AND SOUR 147 SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE
142 NORWAY LOBSTER TAILS 150 RED GURNARD 130 SWEET/SAVORY CHOCOLATE LEAVES
95 NOUGAT OF DUCK FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE AND 158 RED MULLETS AND FUMET 280 SYDNEY
CARAWAY, SAUTÉED SWEET AND SOUR BERGERON 141 RED PEPPER TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA 207 SYLVAIN VERGNES’S PORK KNUCKLES WITH CHOCOLATE
APRICOTS AND RAISINS, AND CRISP LACE OF TOASTED 163 REDUCTION; LAÏ CHU AND WHEAT, A FEW VEGETABLES
BREAD 135 RISOTTO; GREEN 249 SYRUP; CELERY STALKS AND LEAVES POACHED
96 NOUGAT OF FOIE GRAS WITH CHOCOLATE 114 RISOTTO; MILK CHOCOLATE AND ANISE IN LIGHT CITRUS
155 ONCTUEUX WITH LEMON AND FRESH VERBENA; 128 ROASTED ESCARGOTS WITH PINE NEEDLES, CHOCOLATE 141 TAPENADE WITH PAPRIKA; RED PEPPER
WHITE CHOCOLATE SAUCE WITH RAW AND ROASTED PORCINI MUSHROOMS, 167 TARO BRUNOISE, TAMARILLO AROMAS, RAPESEED OIL
280 OPERA GLAZE RISPY CHOCOLATE CARAMEL LEAVES 254 THE BLACK FOREST…IN’
265 ORANGE ZEST; CHOCOLATE CREAM WITH 242 ROQUEFORT; CRISPY CHOCOLATE TRUFFLE WITH 270 THE MILKY WAY
73 ORIGINAL BONBONS… OF YOUG DRÔME GUINEA FOWL 272 SABLÉ OF ALMONDS AND GIANDUJA MILK CHOCOLATE; 81 THE MUMS SANDWICH: GRAVLAX SALMON, CUMIN-
IN CHOCOLATE CHAUD-FROID, SHISO, DILL COMPRESSED 266 PERFUMED CHOCOLATE MAYONNAISE, SWEET
AND TAHITIAN VANILLA 282 SABLÉ WITH NUTTY PRALINE; SUPPLE AND SOUR RED CABBAGE
277 OVALIS TONKA 276 SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE THE NEW WORLD
122 OXTAIL (COOKING THE MEAT) 280 SACHERTORTE; CARAÏBE CHOCOLATE 93 TOASTED BREAD STICKS WITH FRESH HERBS
68 PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS, 82 SALMON IN THE WAY INSPIRED BY GRAVLAX 108 TOFU OF CHOCOLATE
SMOKED GANACHE, WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA 145 SATAY OF BAY SCALLOPS SKEWERED WITH LEMONGRASS, 78 TOMATO; PRALINE CREAM WITH
260 PARFAIT; FROZEN MILK CHOCOLATE SWEET AND SOUR MANGO JULIENNE, ORANGE- 79 TOMATO WATER
115 PARMESAN TUILES PERFUMED CHOCOLATE SAUCE AND CACAO NIB TUILES 104 TOMATO WATER GELATIN WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS
150 PASSION FRUIT AND CHOCOLATE MOLE SAUCE 140 SAUCE AMÉRICAINE OF NORWAY LOBSTER 100 TUNA TATAKI
118 PASTILLES 140 SAUCE AMÉRICAINE WITH GRAND CRU CHOCOLATE 166 TURBOT
269 PEACHES PRICKED WITH FRESH LAVENDER; AND CORAL 165 TURBOT COOKED ON THE BONE, CHOCOLATE POLENTA,
BROCHETTES OF VINE 147 SAVORY CACAO NIB TUILES SWEET AND SOUR TARO BRUNOISE, FOAMY FUMET
173 PETIT PARMENTIER OF FROG LEGS WITH NEW GARLIC, 194 SAVORY CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ, FOIES BLONDS CHUTNEY, OF PISTACHIO, AND SPICED CHOCOLATE FLAKES
COULANT OF CHOCOLATE AND THYME, FOAMY CACAO SHALLOTS AND CRANBERRIES, LIE DE VIN DEMI-GLACE 269 TWO CHOCOLATE SAUCE
NIB STOCK AND VIOLET MUSTARD 268 ULTRA FINE CHOCOLATE SPHERES
252 PHYLLO CRISPS 170 SCALLOPS «SURF AND TURF»; BREADED 192 VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE; VEAL SHANK WITH
236 PICODON OF REINIER AND MARION LASANCE OF LEMPS 163 SEA LETTUCE LEAVES 191 VEAL SHANK OSSO BUCCO WITH TAHITIAN VANILLA
IN ARDÈCHE, ENCRUSTED WITH WALNUTS AND SAUTÉED, 185 SHALLOT AND GRIOTTE CHERRY COMPOTE AND CHOCOLATE, TOASTED ALMONDS AND WHITE
WALNUT GANACHE AND CRISPY HAM, FANCIFUL ENDIVE WITH CORNAS WINE GRAPES WITH RUM
LEAVES 103 SHREDDED DUNGENESS CRAB, TOMATO WATER GELATIN 192 VEAL SHANK WITH VANILLA AND CHOCOLATE
238 PICODONS WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS, CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY 93 VEGETABLE FOAM WITH PURPLE BASIL
135 PIKE QUENELLES; BEIGNETS OF WITH CRAB AND CHORIZO FUMET 126 VEGETABLE STOCK WITH CURRY AND COCONUT MILK
204 PINEAPPLE; SWEET AND SOUR ROAST 189 SIDE VEGETABLES (ARTICHOKES, CARROTS AND ASPARAGUS) 122 VEGETABLE STOCK WITH TRUFFLE
153 POACHED LOBSTER TAIL, CREAMY WHITE CHOCOLATE WITH 208 SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE PORK KNUCKLES 201 VEGETABLE TAGLIATELLE WITH PATTYPAN SQUASH
LEMON AND VERBENA, BUTTER-SAUTÉED BABY SPINACH 229 SIDE VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES, SNOW 229 VEGETABLES FOR THE RABBIT (POTATOES, SNOW PEAS,
167 POLENTA; CHOCOLATE PEAS, SHALLOTS, CARROT) SHALLOTS, CARROT)
142 POLENTA FINGERS WITH SAFFRON 71 SMOKED PANCETTA TRANSPARENCY WITH WALNUTS 184 VENISON BREADED À L’ANGLAISE
130 PORCINI CHOCOLATE SAUCE 196 SOUFFLÉ DOUGH 283 VERBENA
131 PORCINIS; SAUTÉED 108 SOY VINAIGRETTE 283 VERBENA NECTAR
204 PORK FILET WITH CHOCOLATE 119 SOYBEAN SPROUTS 71 WAFERS OF CRISPY PANCETTA
208 PORK KNUCKLES 220 SPARE RIBS WITH STOCK 238 WALNUT GANACHE
188 POTATO TRANSPARENCY WITH HERBS 126 SPICY CHOCOLATE VELOUTÉ 79 WATER; TOMATO
174 POTATOES WITH FROG; MASHED 155 SPINACH WITH LEMON OIL AND BUTTER; SAUTÉED FRESH 208 WHEAT SAUCE; CHOCOLATE AND
79 PRALINE CREAM WITH BALSAMIC NOTES 108 SPRING LEEKS 282 WHISKY GELATIN
78 PRALINE CREAM WITH TOMATO 127 SPRING RAIN CRISP 100 WHITE CHOCOLATE SHAVINGS WITH MATCHA TEA
212 PUFF PASTRY BASES 210 SQUAB FROM LA MAISON MICHEL ROASTED ON THE BONE, AND SANCHO PEPPER
278 PURE CHOCOLATE COOKIE-CUTTER SALMIS CHOCOLATE SAUCE, PUFF PASTRY AND BRAISED 261 WHITE CHOCOLATE SHELL WITH GREEN TEA AND TOASTED
179 PURÉE; «GREEN PEACE» (SWEET PEAS) ENDIVES SESAME
185 PURÉE; PURPLE (RED BEET) 213 SQUAB JUS WITH CHOCOLATE
 TO BE ABLE TO SAY THANKS
To thank someone is an opportunity – one of life’s Jean Bernard Lassara head of the devoted team, made up for my repetitive
300 privileges. It’s a sign of our happiness of being In my opinion, it is the photography that really gives absences. Tamar Marchand, my assistant, worked long-
“indebted” to someone. We all know that mutual dimension to the ideas in the preparation of a book, distance with me, always anticipating more and better
generosity is not always automatic. However, along the fourth dimension maybe. The photographer marks work.
the path of life the occasions to say “thank you” the time period with his style, his light and his eye. I want to thank you all for allowing me to have, thanks
or “you’re welcome” seem to multiply in daily Created with Jean Bernard, this book was an adventure to your personal investment and professional
exchanges, with those we love, with those we work, of life for me, a supplementary adventure. We spent conscience, the calm attitude and necessary time in
or simply with those whose paths we cross. Often, hundreds of hours together, day and night, hours the preparation of this book.
the thanks is accompanied by a smile and, of preparation, of imagining, coming to an agreement
in particular, a reciprocal sense of satisfaction; over the spirit of each photo, even better, over Rika
this is the day-to-day delight that unfortunately the visual spirit of the book. Rika, my wife, has accompanied me in yet another
we don’t always take advantage of. I want to thank you, Jean Bernard, for your generosity gourmand adventure.
For me, to write a book comes from the desire and for your respect of other’s ideas. You knew to be there when I needed you, how
to transmit ideas, to enrich someone’s life. In fact, often times the author is a victim of I needed you, with your words, suggestions and
Someone, otherwise put, are all those who place the photographic style, like an architect that builds critiques.
their confidence in us to train and educate them, his house on top of your own. For me, such You knew to wait up for me, even though I was often
or those who simply put their time into reading an intrusion was unthinkable. extremely late, for almost two years.
works like this. You knew how to listen to me, understand me, follow You hade the graciousness to excuse me when I wasn’t
Perhaps it is also the desire to leave a trace of oneself me and even say no sometimes as well. there, my head in other places, tired and distracted.
behind, not for egocentric gratification, but simply With the delicate nature that so characterizes you, You supported our work and clarified hundreds
to continue to exist “a little while longer” in the hearts you redirected and convinced me almost every time of attempts of ours with your soothing inspiration.
and minds of others. that your vision was the right one without ever losing Thank you for being here to share my life with you,
I’d like to take this opportunity, to use this page that sight of my initial ideas. This collaboration, through as well as my passion for my work.
has been allocated to me, to express my deep gratitude mutual respect and trust, will remain an indelible
to certain people along the way. memory in my mind. Hélène and Denis Radisson, Catherine and Maurice
A book is made up of little fragments of life, “Change your point of view to change your perspective” Moulin, Annick and Franck Vidal, Héa and
of encounters, of women and men who appreciate – a Japanese proverb that fits you perfectly, both Cyril Jamet
and trust each other. It also seems to me that a book in your life as well as your art, thanks to the manner My first attempts at cuisine were all tasted by them,
is made up of dreams. It is an amalgamation of desires, in which you are able combine the two. and Rika.
convictions, feelings… and talents as well. To create a book where each has space to exist, All seasoned epicureans, they directed me with their
to transpire one’s own passion; this was my goal. hedonistic, fair criticism.
Chocolate Fusion is my desire, just a desire. Thank you, Jean Bernard, for having offered me this Thank you all for being there, for the simple love
chance, to live your passion, to see things together. of taking risks, and sharing.
Paco Marfull, Javier Antoja, René Palomo and
Cèlia Pujals Jean Luc Grisot, Franck Vidal, Tamar Marchand, Pierre Orsi, Régis Marcon, Phillipe Girardon, Peter
A desire that only begins to crystallize with Phillipe Givre, Julie Haubourdin, Isabelle Lecomte, Knipp, Heywin Hellstrom, Pascal Dupuy, Roger
the conviction of an editor. Michael Loonis, Michael Verdier, David Capy and Vergé, Pierre and Michel Troisgros, Gordon
Talent begins with the sense of the projection Sébastien Michel Ramsay, Alain Dutournier, Paul Bocuse, Guy
of one’s plan. I could never have accomplished this book without Lassausaie, Mark Decank, Olivier de Montigny,
Paco and Javier, you had already put your trust in the help and contribution of my collaborators, Jeann Garon, Gérard Corchia, Jérémie Gaïk,
me seven years ago for the publication of Au coeur or without the support of my assistant, Phillipe Givre. and so many others, all of you, friends, clients of
des saveurs. Seven years later, with a rare type of In fact, thanks to the generosity of Franck Vidal, Valrhona who always dared to taste. Chefs, pastry
confidence, bordering on a break from convention, marketing director, and Jean Luc Grisot, general chefs, epicureans, gastronomes, you have inspired
you accepted to follow me once again, allowing director of Valrhona, I had a great amount of help and comforted me with your words and your
me find my way with almost total freedom – a rare during this project. I would like to express appreciation.
graciousness that one wouldn’t expect from an editor. my sincerest thanks and profound gratitude for all Thank you for giving me your time and your
The trust you have shown me is immense, and would that you have done. Your character and your daily willingness to dare to taste, and for giving your sincere
have been blind had you not steered me back on track consideration of others in your work, thanks to your opinion, whatever the result may have been! All
from time to time! intellectual honesty (a rare thing in business), deserve the recipes are marked with you and your cherished
To you, Cèlia, Paco and René, I want say how grateful the utmost respect. reflections.
I am for your work, your ability to listen, and Thank you for propagating the approach that Antoine
especially for your patience. Thank you, Cèlia, Dodet initiated at Valrhona, one that proves that Pierre Gagnaire, Pierre Hermé
in particular for having played the role of “mom” success can be achieved through honesty, respect, I can’t be anything but happy and fulfilled by
during the creation of this book. listening and sympathy. the confidence that they honor me with by having
Your delicate authority and sharp attention to detail For a few months while I wrote and prepared accepted to write the prefaces for this book. I admire
have left me with enduring memories. the recipes and photos, my assistant Phillipe Givre, them, as much for their personality as for their style.