ACMW Plans v1.0

AMAZINGCOMPACT
MOBILEWORKBENCH
COMPLETE BUILD PLANS

Hiding in the Garage with Jordan Frank © Copyright 2019 J. Frank | v1.0
Amazing Compact Mobile Workbench
PROJECT PLANS
WATCH THE FOUR-PART BUILD SERIES ON YOUTUBE!
Thank you for purchasing these free plans! If you’re looking at these then you are prob-
ably in need of an Amazing compact mobile workbench- one that can hold your table saw, your
miter saw, your router- and have decent dust collection all while folding up and rolling away to
give you maximum room in your space. I designed this bench based on my needs, cribbing a lot
from the YouTube community, a clever idea from The Family Handyman magazine, and an ele-
ment or two that might actually be original. I have learned so much from YouTube that I wanted
to put this out there as sort of a “pay-it-forward” thing in the hopes that it is a help to others.
There are many areas in which you could change parts and customize the bench to better fit
Your needs, so I suggest skimming through the whole thing before you start cutting out parts.
Also remember that with any plans it’s on you to measure twice and double-check the work; I’m
definitely not a professional but I have done my best to be accurate. Please enjoy and thanks for
checking these out. Have fun building! - Jordan
Disclaimer! You are making this at your own risk. Power tools are dangerous, sharp things are dangerous, being
stupid is dangerous. I am NOT an expert and my technique is questionable at best. Be familiar with your owner’s
manuals and make sure you know how to use your equipment. Always use protective gear and if you’re not com-
fortable doing something DON’T DO IT. I am NOT liable for injuries or accidents you may incur while working on
this project. However, if you do a great job and want to credit me for it, I will allow you to call me ‘Sensei’.
Hiding in the Garage with Jordan Frank 2 © Copyright 2019 J. Frank | v1.0
PROJECT PLANS
CONTENTS
MATERIALS LIST�� 4
CUTTING LIST ��5
CUTTING DIAGRAMS��7
BASIC CONSTRUCTION�� 14
MITER SAW & UTILITY SHELVES�� 22
TABLE SAW DUST COLLECTION�� 27
TABLE SAW BOXES �� 30
ROUTER SECTION �� 32
ROUTER TABLE FENCE�� 45
CABINET DOORS �� 50
TABLE SAW EXTENSION WING�� 53
FINISHING TOUCHES�� 61
BONUS: SIMPLE STOP BLOCKS�� 63
PHOTO GALLERY�� 64
PROJECT PLANS
MATERIALS LIST
Note: hyperlinks below are just to be helpful - I’m not receiving any form of compensation.
If you find a better deal go for it.
SHEET GOODS (4’x8’): TOOLS:

(1/2) 1/4” plywood NECESSARY: Standard power tools, plus a pock-
(1/2) 1/2” plywood et-hole jig
(21/2) 3/4” plywood HELPFUL BUT NOT CRITICAL: hole saws (21/2”, 3”,
(1) 3/4” MDF 4”), Forstner bits
OPTIONAL: To make the “Utility Shelf” you’ll need
a rivet gun w/ 1/8” rivets. There are alternatives
LUMBER: but rivets are best.
(6) 2’x4’ (8’ length)
(1) 2’x4’ (6’ length) ALSO NEED: caulk (1 tube), construction adhesive
1/4” dowel (less than 2” length needed) (1 tube), screws, glue
HARDWARE:
(4) 4” locking casters
(2) 16” full-extension drawer slides
(2) 12” long-arm folding shelf brackets (heavy duty)
(2) 10” double-slot shelf bracket
(2) 11” single-slot shelf bracket
(2) 2’ double-slotted wall standard
(1) 1” x 36” angle iron (only need 12”)
(1) shelf pins
MISCELLANEOUS:
(1) 3’ power strip
(1) 2’ T-track and (1) 3’ T-track (for router fence)
(1) router table dust port
(2) 1/4” star knobs and (1 pack) 1/4” t-bolts (1” length)
(1) 36” miter track
(1) router safety switch
(1) 21/2” hose (less than 24”) and (1 pack) clamps
(1) Dust Right router table dual port and (1) hose
(1) router template
(2) magnetic cabinet door catch
4” dust collection ports/adapters: (2) Dust Right 4” combo ports,
(1) 4” to 21/4” hose reducer, (1) 4” dust coupling, (1) 4” elbow w flange
PROJECT PLANS
CUTTING LIST
Part Name Qty. Th. Width Length Material
A miter support 1 1" 2" 45" 2x4
B ts upper brace 2 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 21 1/2" 2x4
C base wheel-well 4 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 6 1/2" 2x4
D tall frame 4 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 26 1/4" 2x4
E short frame 2 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 14 3/8"* 2x4
F ts lower brace 2 1 1/2" 2 3/4" 21 1/2" 2x4
G base stretcher 2 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 56" 2x4
H box shelf riser 2 1 1/2" 2 3/4" 13 1/4" 2x4
I base endcap 2 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 5" 2x4
J base brace 4 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 18" 2x4
K router bit tray 2 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 15" 2x4
L sliding door runners 2 1/2" 1 1/4" 46" 2x4
AAA access door bar 2 1 1/2" 1 1/4" 21 1/2" 2x4
M sliding door 2 1/4" 23 1/2" 25 5/8" 1/4" ply

N upper box bottom 1 1/4" 13" 20" 1/4" ply
O lower box bottom 1 1/4" 13" 13 1/2" 1/4" ply
P rb ramp side 2 1/4" 7" 10" 1/4" ply
Q rb ramp back 1 1/4" 6 3/4" 11" 1/4" ply
R rb ramp triangle 1** 1/4" 3" 6" 1/4" ply
S under ts ext wing 1 1/4" 17 1/2" 1" 1/4" ply
T upper box back 1 1/2" 3 1/4" 12 1/2" 1/2" ply

U upper box side 2 1/2" 3 1/4" 19 3/4" 1/2" ply
V upper box front 1 1/2" 3 1/4" 13 1/2" 1/2" ply
W lower box shelf 1 1/2" 19 1/2" 12 1/2" 1/2" ply
X upper box shelf 1 1/2" 17" 21" 1/2" ply
Y lower box side 2 1/2" 6" 13 1/4" 1/2" ply
Z lower box back 1 1/2" 6" 12 1/2" 1/2" ply
AA lower box front 1 1/2" 6" 13 1/2" 1/2" ply
BB router box door 1 1/2" 12 1/2" 11" 1/2" ply
CC router box strips 2 1/2" 12 1/2" 1" 1/2" ply
PROJECT PLANS
CUTTING LIST (cont.)

Part Name Qty. Th. Width Length Material
DD t-saw access panel 2 3/4" 21 1/2" 14 3/8" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
EE bottom 1 3/4" 72" 21" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
FF router switch bottom 1 3/4" 3 1/4" 14" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
GG router switch front 1 3/4" 3 1/4" 5 1/2" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
HH router switch side 1 3/4" 2 1/4" 14" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
II inside panels 4 3/4" 19" 26 1/4" 3/4" ply (sheet 1)
JJ back 1 3/4" 26 1/4" 46" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)

KK top 1 3/4" 21" 50 1/4" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
LL miter saw shelf 1 3/4" 13" 49 1/2" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
MM router box side 2 3/4" 11" 13" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
NN lower box stop 1 3/4" 2" 19 1/2" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
OO extension wing stop 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 14" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
PP upper box stop 1 3/4" 3 1/2" 14" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
QQ extension wing cleats 1** 3/4" 2 1/4" 13" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
RR router box front panel 2 3/4" 2 1/2" 11" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
SS ts extension support 1 3/4" 13 3/8" 18" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
TT router fence face 1 3/4" 4 1/2" 27" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
CCC router fence bottom 1 3/4" 3 1/2" 27" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
DDD router fence supports 2 3/4" 3" 3" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
BBB utility shelf cleats 2 3/4" 1 3/4" 12" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)
UU table saw shelf 1 3/4" 21" 23" 3/4" ply (sheet 3)

VV lower shelf 2 3/4" 22 1/4" 19" 3/4" ply (sheet 3)
WW adjustable shelf 1 3/4" 21 1/4" 19" 3/4" ply (sheet 3)
XX ts extension wing 1 3/4" 13 1/2" 18" 3/4" MDF

YY utility shelf 1 3/4" 14" 21" 3/4" MDF
ZZ work surface 1 3/4" 51 1/4" 24" 3/4" MDF
* depends on height of table saw

** will cut to make two pieces
PROJECT PLANS
LAYOUT- 2’x4’ lumber (8’ and 6’)
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LAYOUT- 1/4” plywood (half sheet)
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LAYOUT- 1/2” plywood (half sheet)
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LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #1
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LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #2
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LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #3 (half sheet)
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LAYOUT- 3/4” MDF
PROJECT PLANS
BASIC CONSTRUCTION
General note: I recommend cutting parts as you go instead of all-at-once. That way you can double-check mea-
surements and adjust accordingly. Also, before you go too far in the process, definitely check out the note on p. 15
Step 1 - the base
Lay out your 2x4s

on the bottom (EE). The
2 inner braces (J) do not need
to be spaced exactly 1611/16” apart, just
in that ballpark. Check for square and attach
all 2x4s to each other using 3” screws.
Step 2
Flip over the

base and attach the
bottom (EE) to the 2x4s using
a generous amount of 15/8” screws,
driven from the top. Make sure your base
is nice and flat; everything will build up off of this
structure.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 3
Lift your base on to a table to

access the bottom. Attach the outer
frame parts (D and E) by screwing from
below. Rip both lower braces (F) to 23/4” and
screw them into the base from below, spacing them
3/4” from the edge of the base. Attach the inner frame parts
(D) to the base with pocket screws and then also to (F) using 21/2”
screws. Drive screws through (E) to (F) as well.
Note: the height of (E) will determine the height of your table saw relative to the work surface of the bench. 143/8” is
a good height for my saw, the Dewalt 745, which is approx 127/8” h. You can always shim to make it higher, but cut (E)
shorter if your saw is taller than mine.
Step 4 - table saw area
Attach extension wing stop (OO)

approx 4” from ends of (F) using
pocket screws or glue.
Attach the table saw upper braces

(B) between (D) and (E) frame posts
using 3” screws, checking to make
sure they are level. I used clamps to
hold them in place while I screwed
them in.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 5
Use a jigsaw to cut out the two notches in the upper box shelf (X) and then attach to it to bench by screwing from
below into the two (B) supports - you may need a right-angle attachment if your drill is too big, and clamps are helpful
to hold in place. Then set the upper box stop (PP) on (X) and attach to (B) using pocket screws.
Step 6
Rip the two box shelf risers (H) to

23/4” and screw into (F) and (E).
Line up the lower box stop (NN)

with the ends of (H) and attach
using pocket screws or glue.
Rip the two access door bars

(AAA) to 11/2” x 11/4” and attach
with screws to (B), (D) and (E),
making sure that the 11/4” is on
top (there should be a 3/4” gap
between (AAA) and the edges of
(D) and (E)).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 7
Use a jigsaw to cut out the two notches in the lower box shelf (W) and then attach it to bench by screwing down into
the two (H) risers.
Step 8
Drill pilot holes in the corners and then use a jigsaw to cut
out the large rectangle in the table saw shelf (UU). Then use
a jigsaw to make the rounded hole for the hose. I used a 1/4”
roundover bit on all the edges, and then attached to the bench
by screwing down into (E), (B) and (AAA).
Note: once the bench is assembled if your table saw isn’t flush with the work surface you can unscrew (UU)
and place shims under to raise it up (you can see that in action in the video).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 9 - back
Attach back (JJ) between rear

frame parts (D) and (D) and
to bottom (EE) using pocket
screws. Make sure to also drill
pocket screw holes along the
upper edge of (JJ) for attaching
the top later. (JJ) should be
flush with everything else on
the backside at this point.
Step 10.1 - walls
The walls of the bench are made up of four identical parts (II). In the video I made the right side of the cabinet
with two fixed shelves; I now think it’s more practical to have one fixed shelf (on both left and right side) and have
one additional adjustable shelf on the right side, and these plans reflect this.
Because both fixed shelves will be at the same height it is easiest to start with all four (II) parts as one and cut a
3/4” dado (3/8” depth) across the whole piece, thereby ensuring they all line up perfectly. If that’s too big a piece
to work with then cut it roughly in half (38+”) and cut your dadoes across two parts at once (I don’t have a dado
stack so I ran multiple passes with a regular blade, then cleaned it out with a chisel). Once you’ve made your
dadoes you can cut your parts into their final widths.
For the adjustable shelf, use your preferred method to make matching shelf-pin holes on the section above the
dado on two of the (II) parts. I used a KREG Shelf Pin Drilling Jig.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 10.2
Use pocket holes on the top, bottom and

rear-facing sides of the four (II) parts. The
two on the right will have the shelf-pin
holes, the two on the left do not.
Attach the two outer parts first by
securing with pocket screws to (EE) and
(JJ) and also screw into frame parts (D).
These should butt up against back part
(JJ), leaving a 11/4” gap to the front edge.
Attach the two middle parts (II) to each
other with a few 11/4” screws and then use
pocket screws to attach to bottom (EE)
and back (JJ). I found it helpful to cut two
211/2” spacer blocks to help line up the
middle section.
If you want to put a protective coating Note: you do not need two (II) parts in the middle; you could instead run 1/4”
on the inside of your cabinet (I used two deep dadoes on both sides of one part and adjust shelves accordingly. I just
coats of poly) now would be a good time. like the beefier look of the two parts together.
Step 11 - shelves
Roundover the front edges of shelf parts

(VV), (VV) and (WW) and apply finish if you
want. Check for fit and then glue the two
(VV) fixed shelves into the dadoes in (II).
Set adjustable shelf (WW) on shelf pins at

desired height (although the next step is
easier without the shelf in).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 12 - top
Line up top (KK)

with the front, back
and left side of bench.
Right side (table saw side)
should extend 11/4” inch.
Attach (KK) with glue and pocket screws

drilled from below on the walls (II) and back
(JJ), and also screw down into frame parts (D).
Step 13.1 - work surface
Set the work surface (ZZ) on top of the bench but don’t attach yet. Put
your table saw on the bench and check to make sure the two surfaces are
nearly level, with the table saw being a hair higher (approx. 1/32”). If your
table saw is too low you can remove the part it’s sitting on (UU), place
shims under, and then reattach (UU) when it’s the right height.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 13.2
Now that you know your table saw is at the correct height you can line up (ZZ) and attach it by screwing many
11/4” screws from below. By not gluing it you can replace it more easily if it gets damaged over time.
The right side edge (facing the table saw) is flush with the top part (KK), but front side and rear side should both
protrude 11/2” and the left side should protrude 1”.
I ran my trim router with a 1/4” roundover bit around all four sides of (ZZ).
At this point you can leave your table saw set up on the bench and take advantage of your new outfeed table!
Step 14 - access panels
Attach the two access panels

(DD) to each side of the table
saw area using two screws into
parts (F) and (AAA). You hopeful-
ly won’t need to remove these
panels often, but if you do the
less screws the easier. Their
function is simply to cover up the
inside area- we’ll pop them both
off when we get to installing dust
collection for the table saw.
Basic construction is complete

- now comes the bells and
whistles!
PROJECT PLANS
MITER SAW & UTILITY SHELVES

Note: these plans are based on the fact that my miter saw is small (10”) and light (34 lbs.). I store it on top of
the bench when it’s not in use, then move it on to the miter saw shelf when I set up the bench. If your saw is too
heavy to lift you may want to modify the plans
Step 15 - power strip
Secure your power strip, centered

and flush under the work surface
(ZZ), by screwing into back (JJ)
and/or top (KK) (depending on
where the screw holes are for your
strip).
Step 16 - miter saw shelf
Attach the two 12” folding shelf brackets to framing

parts (D), approximately 4” from the surface of brackets to the
bottom of work surface (ZZ). Make sure your brackets are rated for
heavy weight (mine have a max load of 660 lbs).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 17
Center your miter saw shelf (LL) on

the two brackets, spaced approx-
imately 14” from front edge to
back of bench (it will overhang the
brackets). Set your miter saw at the
front edge of (LL) and make sure it
has enough room to swivel and tilt.
Adjust the shelf placement accord-
ingly.
Once you know you have enough

room, screw the brackets to (LL)
from below.
**If you extend (LL) further than 14”

it will affect router dust collection
placement. Adjust in Step 48**
Step 18
Rip miter support (A) to

1” x 2” and clamp in place
between the brackets. The
1” thickness is to make sure
the shelf can fold all the way
without the support interfer-
ing; check to make sure yours
can and if not adjust the 1”
thickness accordingly.
Secure to shelf (LL) with glue

and by screwing from above
into (A) with 11/2” screws.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 19 - utility shelf

Note: the utility shelf involves using a few rivets. I had never used them before, and it was really easy, don’t be
intimidated. I purchased a cheap $12 riveter that came with the rivets I needed (1/8”) from Amazon, but if you
know how to weld (I do not) you could certainly do that instead. Or if you want a simpler route you could use
a folding bracket system similar to the miter saw shelf but you won’t be able to set the utility shelf at different
heights, which is the handy part of this shelf.
I saw this in an old issue of Family Handyman; it’s a clever idea and I make zero claims to it. The original article
can be found here: https://docplayer.net/28130746-Do-it-all-mobile-workbench.html and they have detailed
photos so check it out if you find my instructions confusing. They’re professionals. I’m just a dude.
Attach the two double-slotted

wall standards to the bench
with 2” screws directly into
frame parts (D). Line them up
with the inner edges of (D),
butting them up under work
surface (ZZ). It’s important to
make sure they are the same
distance from each other from
top to bottom otherwise your
shelf won’t line up when you
attach it.
Step 20.1
Cut off the back off the two

single-slot shelf brackets 11/2”
from their end (not counting
the hooks). Keep the back;
discard the front part.
The cut will be hidden and
doesn’t have to be pretty; I
used a grinder but you could
use a jigsaw with a metal
blade or a hacksaw.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 20.2
=
So this is fun. Take the end of the cutoff single bracket and nest it inside the double bracket, placed about 1”
from the rear of the double, exposing roughly 1/8” of it (not counting the hooks). It doesn’t matter if you’re
really precise about those two measurements, what matters is that you get your placement the same on
both new brackets (we’re making a pair). Hold the two pieces in place using some locking pliers (or very small
clamps) and then drill two 1/8” holes through the side of the double bracket and the single one. Then use a
riveter and 1/8” rivets to secure it through those holes. It’s easier than it sounds.
IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU FASTEN THE CUTOFFS ON THE SAME INSIDE FACE OF BOTH BRACKETS - oth-
erwise they won’t line up when you hang them in their storage position. In other words, make both new
brackets look identical, not “mirrored”.
Most double brackets will have only have two holes on top for screws; I recommend you drill two more so
you’ll be able to attach them in Step 22 using four screws each (instead of two).
Step 21
Rip a 45º on the two utility shelf cleats (BBB) so that there is
approximately 1” on the bottom and 13/4” on top. Position the
two parts roughly 1/2” from the outside edges of utility shelf
(YY), centered vertically. Glue and screw from below.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 22
Attach the brackets to the wall standards at the

same height and set the utility shelf (YY) on the
brackets. Center (YY) and space it at least 1” from
the back edge of (YY) to the wall standard - this
will give you enough space to tilt the shelf up
when you are hanging it.
Once you have (YY) in place you can permanently

attach it to the brackets by screwing in from below
through the four holes in the brackets.
Test to make sure the completed shelf will also

hang on the standards in the vertical storage
position.
OPTIONAL
Use 3/4” scrap to make as many shelves as you want and attach
tools to them that you normally have to clamp down (like a sander,
pocket hole jig, vice, etc). Just measure the width between your two
cleats (BBB) and cut an opposing 45º on each side, making it slightly under-
sized so it can slide in and out easily.
PROJECT PLANS
TABLE SAW DUST COLLECTION

Note: even though most of my power tools have 21/2” dust ports, I have a 4” dust collector and I use Rock-
ler’s “Dust Right” hose system so this bench is obviously based around that. If you are using a shop vac or
similar with a 21/2” hose system you might make some changes in cabinet construction. For example, the
space under the table saw is designed to hold a hose and adapter that you might not need and could just
run the hose straight from the back of your saw to your dust collector, in which case you could extend shelf
(W) and do away with all the “stops” under the table saw (parts NN, OO, PP).
The router portion is similar but I would stick with the 4” ducting inside the cabinet; just change to a 21/2”
adapter on the rear of the bench.
Components I used, purchased from Rockler.com:
Dust Right Combo Port 4” to 21/4” hose reducer 21/2” hose
Step 23
Remove both access panels (DD) from the bench. The

following steps will refer to the rear access panel only;
the two dust ports for the bench are both on the rear
(miter saw side) of the bench.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 24
Drill a pilot hole approximately 53/4” up and

31/8” over from the bottom right corner of
rear access panel (DD). Cut a 4” hole using
a 4” hole saw (or jigsaw if you don’t have a
hole saw).
Step 25
Drill pilot holes in the four corners of the

Combo Port and attach to access panel
using four 5/8” screws and washers
Step 26
Flip the access panel (DD) over and jam the

reducer through the hole, directly into the
Combo Port. Use a mallet to gently tap it in
as far as it will go. No glue needed, it should
be a tight friction fit.
(overhead view)
PROJECT PLANS
Step 27
Reattach the rear access

panel (DD) to the bench.
(inside view)
Step 28
Run the hose through the

hole in the table saw shelf
(UU) and connect one end
to the dust port on the
table saw and the other
end to the reducer in the
access panel using clamps.
If you cut your hose down
make sure to leave enough
length for it to move freely
when adjusting the angle
on your saw. I cut mine to
22” long.
Step 29
Reattach front access panel (DD). Table saw dust collection is

complete! Next we’ll add a removable box underneath the saw to
catch whatever the vacuum doesn’t get, and together this system
works reasonably well.
PROJECT PLANS
TABLE SAW BOXES

I keep calling these “boxes” but I suppose they’re more like a tray, or a removable shelf. Whatever you call it I like
that you can take them out and set them on wherever you’re working, as opposed to sliding drawers.
The shallower upper box is used to collect all the sawdust that falls beneath the table saw that the dust collector
doesn’t pickup. Every now and then just pull it out and vacuum up all the excess sawdust.
The deeper lower box is for general storage; I use it for extra table saw blades and inserts.
Step 30
Cut a 1/4” dado on the upper box parts (T, U, V) and

lower box (Y, Z, AA). The dado should be 1/4” from the
bottom, 1/4” deep and 1/4” wide. This will hold the
1/4” ply bottom.
Step 31
Make a simple 5” wide handle in the upper box by

measuring in 41/4” from each edge on (V) and use a
jigsaw.
Same thing for the lower box, but I made the

handle slightly more robust by using a 1” Forstner
bit and making two holes 43/4” and 1” down from
the edges on (AA), then connecting the holes with
a jigsaw.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 32
Before assembling I used a 1/8” roundover bit on the handles and edges of all the parts.
Use glue (and brad nails if you want to speed up the process) to assemble the two boxes. To make the upper box,
attach back (T) to bottom (N), then sides (U) to (N) and (T), then finally the front (V) to (N) and (U).
Repeat the process for the lower box.
Step 33
Paint or finish boxes as desired (I

sprayed mine a delightful bright red
and then two coats of poly) and place
in bench.
The upper box sits on the shelf be-

low the table saw and catches excess
sawdust.
The lower box is on the shelf below that

and is used for general storage.
PROJECT PLANS
ROUTER SECTION
Note: I have a router lift installed in my bench but these plans are the same for a regular fixed router plate.
Watch the video to see everything in action but if you’re mounting a router I’m assuming you’ll use a separate
safety switch so these plans incorporate that and a power cord for the router. The cord will be semi-permanently
attached; you will need a spare power cord if you plan on taking out the router for hand-held use.
Step 34 - router tabletop
Make a mark 14” from left edge of bench

and 8 1/2” from rear. This is where your
router bit will be. Lay out your lines for your
plate/lift (mine is 8 1/4” x 11 3/4”) relative
to where the bit will be, making sure they
are square to the bench.
**CENTER THE BIT, NOT THE PLATE - on my

plate (Incra Mast-R-Lift II) the bit is actually
offset from the center of the plate; it’s 31/2”
from the top edge of the plate. Make sure
your bit location is at 81/2” x 14” and then
layout the plate around that.**
There are multiple ways to create the hole

for your router plate. I used a template
from Rockler and routed 3/8” down with a
pattern bit, then followed the instructions
on the template to lay out corners, drill
pilot holes, then use a jigsaw to cut out the
shape through the work surface (ZZ) and
top (KK). Yours might differ but will look
something like this.
Drop your plate (or lift) with router at-

tached to make sure it all fits and adjust if it
doesn’t. Your plate should be even with the
work surface.
Once you know it’s good you should remove

the router for the following steps (you’ll
need the space) and then put it back in
when the router box is complete.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 35 - T-track and miter gauge track
T-track placement might depend on your

fence; for mine I placed them 1/2” to each
side of the router plate. I used a straight-
edge and routed out the slot with a 3/4”
straight bit at a depth of 3/8”. I squared off
the ends with a chisel.
The miter gauge slot is the same process

but it’s 1” wide, so I did it in two passes
with the 3/4” bit. There doesn’t seem to be
a consensus on an optimal distance for a mi-
ter slot; I set mine 1” from the plate.
Step 36
Use a hacksaw to cut your T-track and miter

gauge track to length and a file to smooth
the cut ends.
Tap them snugly into their slots with a mal-

let if necessary and then screw directly into
the work surface (ZZ) with provided screws.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 37 - Router bit trays
The two router bit trays are attached to the

bench with a pair of 16” full-extension drawer
slides. An advantage of that is you can pop them
off if you want to set them down on your work
surface, or to give you more room to work in the
router cabinet space like we’re doing now. We
can build them, take them off to finish the router
cabinet portion, then put them back on. So
before we do anything else with the space we’ll
measure and attach the two slides to the inside
of the right wall (II) using the provided screws.
The upper one is 3” from the top (KK), and then

a 21/2” spacing to the lower one. Both are set 11/2”
back from the edge of (II).
Step 38
Cut the two router bit tray 2x4s (K) to

size. I left the front 11/4” to be a handle
and sketched out a simple pattern on
the side.
You can use a different handle-style or

attach an actual handle, but these are
a simple “pinch” style that require no
additional hardware.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 39
Using a band saw cut out the pattern from the side, then use the band saw to round off the corners. If
you don’t have a band saw you could also do this with a router and a core box or round nose bit, just go
slow, and then finish with a jigsaw.
Step 40
Use a 1” Forstner bit to drill a hole roughly 1/8” from

the edge.
Sand the entire tray but particularly the front area and
the hole edges (this is where you’ll be grabbing the
tray with your fingers!).
Step 41
Set your table saw to a 5º angle and run your
two trays (K) trough, cutting an angle on the
side that the drawer slides will attach to (left
side if looking at the rear like in this photo).
This angle will tilt the trays towards you a bit
when you are using the bench.
If you were going to apply a finish, now would

be a good time (so you don’t get any in the
holes for the bits).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 42
Measure and mark where you want to place your bits,
then drill a series of 1/2” holes (assuming you have
1/2” bits) approximately 1” deep. It’s easier with a drill
press but you can definitely use a regular drill.
I put my most common bits in my upper tray and did

one row spaced 1” from hole center to hole center and
another at 11/2” from hole center to hole center.
In my lower tray I put my less common bits and took

the time to lay them out and place them in the way
that made the most sense for those bits.
Step 43
Attach trays (K) to bench by screwing the pull-out part

of the drawer slide (I think it’s called a “drawer mem-
ber”?) to (K), making sure that the tip of the handles
don’t go past the edge of wall (II).
Load both trays up with bits and make sure they clear
each other when pulled out and pushed back in. If not
simply unscrew one from its drawer member and repo-
sition higher or lower then reattach.
Remove finished trays for now to make more room until

the router section is complete.
Step 44 - router safety switch & cord tray
Measure in from the upper left corner roughly 11/2”

and, using a 11/2” Forstner bit, drill a hole through
the back (JJ) for your router safety switch power
cord to pass through.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 45
Using a 11/2” Forstner bit, drill a hole to fit cords

through (FF) approximately 6” from front side.
Add pocket holes to bottom of (FF) and one at top

of (GG). Attach (GG) to (FF) with screws (or glue)
and then attach (HH) to (FF) and (GG) with screws
(or glue).
Step 46
Spin the cord tray around and attach to inner wall

(II) using pocket screws.
Step 47
Attach safety switch to (GG) using provided screws.
Not shown (because I’m not very good at Sketchup):

thread the cords under (FF) and up through the hole
in it, then thread the main power cord out the hole
in the back (JJ) and plug into power strip.
PROJECT PLANS
Note: The dust collection system I came up with for the router uses two 4” fittings inside the cabinet. I used
the same Dust Right Combo Port on the back side (and the Dust Right Router Table Dual Port) that I used
on the table saw, but you could change that out for whatever suits your needs. I like the Dust Right system
because I can quickly attach my dust collector to the table saw port, the router port, or to my miter saw
itself without any clamps or screwing. The Dual Port, when attached, sticks way out the back so you can’t
push the bench up against the wall when put away- my solution is to keep it off and stored in the bench
and then I quickly attach it if I’m using the router.
Components I used, purchased from Rockler.com:
Dust Right Combo Port 4” dust coupling 4” elbow with flange
Step 48 - router box dust collection
In the lower left-hand storage area (beneath the router) make a mark halfway across at 103/4” and up 61/4” and drill
a pilot hole. Look on the back of the bench and find the hole you just drilled; use a 4” hole saw (or other 4” circle)
to trace out a 4” circle with the pilot hole as the center and verify that the folded-down miter shelf will not inter-
fere with it. If you made your miter shelf deeper than mine you might have to lower the position of this hole so it
will clear the folded shelf. Once you know it’s good use a 4” hole saw to drill through the back (JJ).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 49
Push the 4” coupling firmly onto the 4”

elbow. No need for adhesives. =
Step 50
Hold this piece in place in the cabinet

centered on the back wall (JJ), with the top
resting against the shelf (VV). Carefully trace
the outline of it onto the bottom of the shelf,
then remove the piece and use a ruler to pin-
point the center of the circle you have drawn.
It should be roughly 51/4” from the back wall.
Drill a small pilot hole through that centerin

(VV).
Step 51
(top-of-shelf view)
Use a 4” hole saw to drill down through shelf (VV).
Your cabinet should now look like this:
PROJECT PLANS
Step 52
This part is a little tricky, but easy if you have a helper. Insert the elbow/coupling into shelf (VV) and center it
on the hole in the back (JJ). Have your helper go around back and tell you when it’s perfectly centered, then
temporarily attach it to (JJ) with two screws through the bottom holes.
The top of the elbow (the dust coupling portion) should be protruding into the upper cabinet. Measure how
much of it needs to be cut off so that it will be flush or slightly under the surface of the shelf - for me it was
almost 1”.
Step 53
Remove the elbow/coupling from the cabinet,

and using a band saw (or handsaw) cut off the
=
amount you measured in the previous step
from the top of the dust coupling. Separate the
coupling from the elbow if you need to and then
stick them back together when you’re done.
Step 54
Reinsert the elbow/coupling back into the top hole in

shelf (VV) and align it with the hole in back (JJ), then
use 5/8” screws and washers through the holes in the
elbow’s flange to secure it to the cabinet.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 55
Attach the Combo Port on to the back

the same way you did for the table
saw: drill four pilot holes (one in each
corner) and then line up with the 4”
hole and screw in to cabinet with 5/8”
screws and washers.
Step 56 - router dust box
Cut a small notch in the upper corner of one of the two router box side
(MM) parts with a jigsaw. This is where you will fit your router power cord
through, so you want it just a bit bigger than the diameter of your power
cord.
**NOTE: if your router’s power cord is not detachable then you might want
to make this notch big enough get your plug head in and out. I have a spare
power cord so I made this one permanently attached in the bench**
Add pocket holes on the insides of the top, back and bottom of both (MM)
parts
Step 57
Cut a piece of 1”x1” scrap to be an 11” spacer and
center it against back wall (JJ) (you can leave the
spacer permanently attached or not; it will be cov-
ered up).
Line up the (MM) part with the notch on the left of

the spacer, but before you screw it in fit your router’s
power cord in the notch into the cord tray. Now you
can use pocket screws to attach the left side (MM) to
the top (KK), back (JJ) and shelf (VV). Repeat for the
right side (MM).
PROJECT PLANS
Step 58
Cut part (R) on a diagonal to make two

triangles.
Cut both parts (P) to dimensions shown.
Step 59
[these next steps show the box without the right side
(MM) part; that’s just for clarity, don’t remove yours.
Also feed your router power cable up through the
work surface and out of the way for the moment]
Mark 31/8” from the back wall (JJ) and lean (Q) at that
marking on to (JJ) (it’s a 26.6º angle). You will use
construction adhesive to attach to the cabinet, but
make sure it lines up with next two steps before per-
manently affixing it
Step 60
Measure 3/4” from front edge of (MM) and attach (R)

to (MM) and shelf (VV) using construction adhesive.
Do the same for the other (R) part on the opposite

side
PROJECT PLANS
Step 61
Lean side ramp part (P) on the triangle (R) and back
part (Q). Not an exact science, just wiggle them
around until you’ve got it looking like a ramp system
and then use construction adhesive on (P) and (Q) to
stick them all permanently in place. If you’re messy
like me I suggest wearing gloves.
Step 62
Speaking of messy, once the construction adhesive

is dry, take some caulk and run a bead around all the
edges, smoothing it down with your finger. Once it all
dries it should look like a pretty sweet little enclosure.
Step 63
To finish off the router box I came up with an ad-

mittedly unconventional front and door. This works
well with a router lift and minimizes air leakage, but
you should look ahead at the next couple steps and
double-check that it will leave enough clearance for
you to access your router and adjust accordingly if it
doesn’t.
Use pocket-hole screws to attach parts (RR) to inside

top and bottom of router box.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 64
Use 3/4” screws to attach (CC) parts to (RR), one on

the bottom of box and one on the top
Step 65
I cut the door (BB) to size and

attached two simple magnetic
cabinet catches to them and lined
them up with the router box. You
could also use hinges but I didn’t
have any lying around. I also found
a simple cabinet pull and attached
that to the door as well. (back)
Step 66
Put your router back in, hook it up

to the power cord (use some cable
ties if necessary to clean it up), put
those router bit trays back on, attach
the door and admire your new router
station!
PROJECT PLANS
ROUTER TABLE FENCE

NOTE: I stated in the video that I was not building a router fence as I already have a decent commercially made
one from a prior table so everyone could figure it out for themselves. Well that’s just rude, and I figured I could at
least make something in Sketchup that was simple but good enough for work. It’s a single piece front (as opposed
to a split-fence), but you could always clamp a sacrificial board to it if you’re worried about damaging it. My
warning is that I have NOT actually built this myself- it is theoretical only. What a world!
Step 67
Use a jigsaw to cut out a

notch, centered along the
bottom, in router fence
face (TT)
Step 68
Use a table saw (or router) to cut a rabbet along the top of
(TT) to accept a T-track.
On the opposite edge use a chamfer bit to make a small

chamfer all the way across, which helps to minimize chips
getting stuck along the bottom of the fence.
Step 69
Make a similar notch on router fence bottom (CCC) as you did

on the face (TT), but create a ramp if possible using a chisel. This
doesn’t have to be pretty as it will be covered up, but this will help
keep the chips from getting jammed up under the dust port.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 70
Cut both router fence support blocks

on the diagonal into four identical 3x3”
triangles.
Step 71
Assemble fence by gluing and brad nailing

parts (TT), (CCC) and (DDD) together. Start
the first (DDD) 1/2” from edge, then space
them 8”, 7” and 8” again.
Make sure to clean off any excess glue

from the bottom.
Step 72
Cut T-track to length with a hacksaw (or

grinder), file off any sharp edges, and at-
tach to rabbet in face (TT) using provided
screws (#6 3/8”, or use longer and cut off
the excess that comes out the backside of
the face)
PROJECT PLANS
Step 73
Center router dust port on fence

and attach using 5/8” screws
Step 74
Set fence on bench 1/2” from

work surface edge; it should
now be centered in line with
the router. Measure 11/2” in from
back edge and mark where to
drill your holes for 1/4” t-bolts
(should be roughly 63/4” from
both sides)
Step 75
Drill holes, slip t-bolts through

and attach them to knobs.
Fence complete!
PROJECT PLANS
Step 76 - miter saw shelf hose recess
Last step for router dust control is to make

a recess in the miter saw shelf so the hose
can go from the lower router dust port
to the one in the router fence (using the
Dust Right Dual Port or similar “Y” fitting)
without any interference.
With the miter shelf (LL) unfolded, mea-

sure to the approximate center of where
the dust ports are (mine was 13 3/16”);
make a mark 3” from edge and remove
shelf from brackets.
Step 77
Make a 3” circle centered on the mark from the previous step then connect it to edge with two lines. Use a 3”
hole saw to cut out the circle then complete the recess using a jigsaw.
With my miter shelf folded out I noticed the power cord for my table saw (which is permanently plugged in to
the power strip) was getting a bit crimped; I cut out a smaller recess for that cord on the left side.
I used a roundover bit on top and bottom of both recesses to keep the hose/cords from snagging.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 78 - Dust collection completed!
Reattach miter shelf (LL) to brackets. Attach Dual Port (or similar) to dust port on rear of bench,
and thread the 21/2” hose up through the recess and into the port on the router fence.
When I break down my bench to put it away I detach the hose and Dual Port and store them in
the bottom left cabinet space.
PROJECT PLANS
CABINET DOORS
Step 79 - door runners
Rip 2x4 (L) into a top part

and bottom at 46” x 1/2” x 11/4”
Step 80
Using the table saw (or router) rip two

grooves down the length of the top and
bottom. Make them 1/4” deep for the
bottom part and 3/8” for the top.
Test the grooves with a piece of 1/4” ply
to make sure they aren’t too snug; the
1/4” doors need to be able to slide
Step 81
Place the bottom runner (L) (with 1/4” deep

grooves) along the front inside edge of the cab-
inet. The best way to attach it is with glue and
clamps, but you can also use #6 screws along the
middle raised portion of the runner. Just be very
careful to pre-drill and not split the already-thin
part.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 82
Attach top runner (L) (with 3/8” grooves) to

top inside edge of the cabinet same as the
bottom runner (L)
Step 83 - door pulls
Make two simple pulls for your doors (M)

using a 11/2” Forstner bit approximately 2” in
from the side and 71/2” down from the top.
Sand any rough edges.
Check to make sure that height won’t inter-

fere with where you want your adjustable
shelf; if it does just raise or lower appropri-
ately.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 84
Apply a liberal amount of paste

wax (or similar) to grooves on
bottom runner (L) and slide in
right door (M) by first inserting
into rear groove on top runner,
then dropping into rear groove
on bottom runner.
Add left door (M) the by insert-

ing into front groove on top
runner, then dropping into front
groove on bottom runner. The
left door should overlap the
right door slightly.
If doors get hard to move just

reapply paste wax and they
should glide pretty easily
PROJECT PLANS
TABLE SAW EXTENSION WING

DISCLAIMER:
This table saw extension wing is really cool. However, it does require you to drill two holes
through the side of your table saw’s table. On the saw I have, the Dewalt DW745, there are no
internal components to damage if you drill in the area I’m suggesting. It is up to YOU however
to check it for yourself and make sure you will not do any damage to your tools. It also proba-
bly voids any warranty but that’s up to you to find out and decide if that’s worth it. If you have
a different table saw you will need to check it out and see if these plans will work for it. If you
are uncomfortable modifying your tool DON’T DO IT. The extension wing is helpful but it’s not
going to change your life, so don’t stress about it. Also don’t sue me if you mess it up. I make
no promises/guarantees, this is something that worked for me and I’m sharing the info. Modify
at your own risk!
Step 85 - metal cleat
Cut a piece of 1” aluminum angle iron to roughly 12” (doesn’t have to be exact). Use a jigsaw with a
metal-cutting blade (or band saw) to round off the two bottom corners, then sand until smooth.
Now use a drill (or drill-press) and drill two 1/4” holes roughly 1 1/2” from each edge on the top
portion, and one 9/32” (19/64” would also work) hole centered in the middle of the bottom por-
tion. None have to be exact.
I chose to spray my finished cleat with a rust-protectant.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 86 - attach cleat to table saw
Center your metal cleat on the side edge of

your table saw’s table. Make sure the top edge
is even with or lower than the surface of the
table, and make sure it is level with the table.
Use a large clamp to hold the cleat in place.
**You are about to drill through the two 1/4”

holes you have already made, through the
table itself. Now would be the ideal time to
flip your table saw on its side and look under
it to make sure nothing vital will be drilled
into when you puncture the side of the table.
On the DW745 there was nothing behind that
area, so it doesn’t affect the operation at all.
USE YOUR BEST JUDGMENT.**
If you are confident you’re not about to dam-

age your table saw, drill two 1/4” holes in the
saw through the two holes in the cleat.
If you’re like me and haven’t worked with much

metal, I thought it might be difficult to drill
through the table saw’s edge, but it was actu-
ally pretty easy. I had cutting oil at the ready
but it wasn’t needed.
Thread a 1/4” bolt through a washer and

secure it with a matching washer and nut on
the opposite side. I was able to slip some pliers
inside to hold the nut while tightening the bolt
in front. Repeat for other hole.
Remove clamp. Cleat is good to go.
PROJECT PLANS
Step 87
Set the table saw extension wing (XX) on the cleat and measure the difference in height between the surface of
the table and (XX). If there is no difference and you’ve managed to get them at the exact same height then you
can skip the next two steps, otherwise you’ll need to add a shim to get (XX) to the proper height. For me it was
a 3/16” difference.
Step 88 - shim (if necessary)
Cut a piece of scrap to 18” x 1”, and then rip to appro-

priate thickness (from prior step) on your table saw (or
use a planer if you have one). Again, mine was 3/16”,
yours will vary depending on exactly the height you
attached your cleat to your saw.
Check the height of both pieces against the table until

they’re even.
Step 89
Use glue to fasten the shim to one edge of (XX)
PROJECT PLANS
Step 90
Flip (XX) over so shim is on the bottom,

and rest it back on the cleat. Mark
where the heads of the bolts are and
take (XX) back off
(top view)
Step 91
Use a jigsaw to cut a notch around the marks

you made, big enough to fit the protruding
bolt heads. They should be a little roomy;
mine were 1/2” deep and 3/4” wide.
Step 92
Place (XX) back on the cleat and check the

fit with the bolts. It should be able to press
all the way up against the vertical part of the
metal cleat without hitting the bolts.
(top view)
PROJECT PLANS
Step 92 (cont.)
While holding (XX) up against the cleat,

make a mark on the underside through
the 1/4” hole in the cleat.
Step 93
Use a 1/4” bit to drill on the mark

through the shim and halfway (3/8”)
into the wing (XX).
Glue a piece of 1/4” dowel into the

hole (I used a mallet to tap it all the
way in). Cut off any excess so that
roughly 1/2” is sticking out.
Step 94
Cut part (QQ) into a pair of French cleats by

ripping a 45º down the middle.
Pre-drill and countersink two screw holes from

the 11/2” side down on both parts
PROJECT PLANS
Step 95
Cut a 45º angle on both edges of extension support (SS) making it a parallelogram.
Starting with a length of 18” this will make the length of each side roughly 17 1/4” - this part may need to
be cut down even more depending on the exact height you attached the metal cleat to the saw (see Step 97)
Step 96
At this point you need to SECURE THE TABLE SAW TO THE BENCH WITH SCREWS (most jobsite saws have holes in
the feet/bottom bars to allow you secure it to a table), so make sure you have it lined up exactly how you want it,
then drive screws into the table saw shelf (UU). I suggest you put some sort of markings around the feet in case
you do have to move it at some point; that way you can put it back in the same spot and screw it back in.
Hold part (SS) at a 45º along the front edge of the table saw shelf (UU), roughly centered along the table saw
itself. Place bottom cleat (QQ) alongside it. Without moving (QQ), remove (SS) and attach (QQ) to bench with
two 11/4” screws (through the pre-drilled holes). Even though you just screwed down your saw, depending on your
angle you might need to undo it to screw in the bottom cleat (QQ).
Bottom cleat (QQ) should now be firmly in place,

looking something like this:
PROJECT PLANS
Step 97
Set a large straight edge on your table saw.
Put wing (XX) back on metal cleat, and place support

(SS) against (QQ) so that (XX) is resting on it. If the
far side of (XX) is too high to be level with the table
then shave off a bit of one end of (SS) until it is level.
I wound up taking off about 1/8” (making it 171/8”
instead of 171/4”). Sneak up on it until you get it just
right
When you’re confident your support (SS) is at the

right height to keep (XX) level, hold upper cleat (QQ)
against it and clamp in place on (XX). Take your time
to make sure that this is all lining up to keep wing
(XX) level with the table saw
Step 98
Flip (XX) over and attach (QQ) with two 11/4” screws
through the pre-drilled holes in (QQ) (remove clamp)
PROJECT PLANS
Step 99
Now that it’s complete, triple check to make sure it’s

level and you’re good to go!
To use your extension wing (XX) all you have to do is

place it on the metal cleat (with dowel through the
hole) and wedge support part (SS) between the two
cleats (QQ). It holds surprisingly well!
Step 100 (optional)
Not completely necessary, but to cut down on the weight of

the support (SS), and because it looks cooler, I drilled a series
of holes in a 3 x 4 pattern.
I made a grid with the two outside columns 23/4” from each
side, and measured 31/2” from the bottom then continued 31/2”
between each row. Then I cut the holes using a 21/2” hole saw
Or don’t be boring like me and instead of drilling holes maybe

carve the Mona Lisa into it with hand tools. It’s a 13”x17”
canvas, go crazy.
Step 101
When not in use you store the wing (XX)

and the support (SS) in the bottom cubby
under the table saw - convenient!
PROJECT PLANS
FINISHING TOUCHES
Step 102 - extend the table saw miter slots
Now that the table saw is secured to the

bench we can route two 1”x3” channels
into work surface (ZZ) to help with room
for table saw jigs. Line it up with the miter
slots in your table saw and make your
marks.
Just like when we routed for the miter

gauge track in step 35, set your depth for
3/8”, use a straight-edge and make two
passes. Then square off the ends with a
chisel.
Step 103 - harden your mdf surfaces
Temporarily remove your t-tracks,

miter gauge track, and router plate.
Create a mixture of 1/2 poly and

1/2 paint thinner, and wipe in a
generous amount to the surface of
your three mdf parts: utility shelf
(YY), work surface (ZZ) and exten-
sion wing (XX).
The paint thinner helps the poly
absorb into the mdf, and when it
dries it hardens your mdf, making it
last longer.
Once it has dried you can give it

a light sanding and then rub on
a layer of paste wax to make the
work surfaces of your bench nice
and smooth. I discovered the techniques in this step
from Mike Farrington’s excellent “Very Good
Router Table” video. Watch and learn!
PROJECT PLANS
Step 104 - FINAL STEP
Reattach the hardware.

Find someone to high-five.
High-five, because you are DONE.
BENCH COMPLETE!!!
PROJECT PLANS
BONUS: SIMPLE STOP BLOCKS

These are easy to build from some 3/4” scraps and are handy for your miter saw shelf. Set them one way and
they are material supports; flip them the other way and they are a stop block for repeat cuts. Use a simple
A-clamp to hold them in place if you need to. When not in use just store in the cabinet. The only variable in build-
ing them is the height of your miter saw’s table.
Cut all scrap pieces to 6” long.
Part (a) = height of miter saw table.
Parts (b) = height of (a) minus thickness of material x 2

(11/2” if ply is actually 3/4”)
Part (c) = height of (a) plus 1”.
So in my case, my miter saw table’s height is 33/8”.

I make part (a) 33/8”, parts (b) both 17/8” (33/8” - 11/2”),
and (c) 43/8” (33/8” + 1”).
The important part is that the block is the same height

no matter which side you lay it on so the material
you’re cutting is even with the table.
Make two using glue (and brad nails if you’re impatient

like me).
PROJECT PLANS
PHOTO GALLERY
My finished bench. I painted it all a flat gray with some red highlights then added a huge sticker and my logo to
the doors. If you build it I’d love to see photos!
PROJECT PLANS

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ACMW Plans v1.0

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AMAZINGCOMPACT

COMPLETE BUILD PLANS

WATCH THE FOUR-PART BUILD SERIES ON YOUTUBE!

CUTTING LIST ������������������������������������������������������������������������5

MITER SAW & UTILITY SHELVES������������������������������������� 22

TABLE SAW DUST COLLECTION������������������������������������� 27

TABLE SAW BOXES ����������������������������������������������������������� 30

ROUTER SECTION ������������������������������������������������������������� 32

ROUTER TABLE FENCE����������������������������������������������������� 45

CABINET DOORS ��������������������������������������������������������������� 50

TABLE SAW EXTENSION WING��������������������������������������� 53

BONUS: SIMPLE STOP BLOCKS��������������������������������������� 63

SHEET GOODS (4’x8’): TOOLS:

M sliding door 2 1/4" 23 1/2" 25 5/8" 1/4" ply

T upper box back 1 1/2" 3 1/4" 12 1/2" 1/2" ply

CUTTING LIST (cont.)

JJ back 1 3/4" 26 1/4" 46" 3/4" ply (sheet 2)

UU table saw shelf 1 3/4" 21" 23" 3/4" ply (sheet 3)

XX ts extension wing 1 3/4" 13 1/2" 18" 3/4" MDF

* depends on height of table saw

LAYOUT- 2’x4’ lumber (8’ and 6’)

LAYOUT- 1/4” plywood (half sheet)

LAYOUT- 1/2” plywood (half sheet)

LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #1

LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #2

LAYOUT- 3/4” plywood #3 (half sheet)

LAYOUT- 3/4” MDF

Step 1 - the base

Lay out your 2x4s

Flip over the

Lift your base on to a table to

Step 4 - table saw area

Attach extension wing stop (OO)

Attach the table saw upper braces

Rip the two box shelf risers (H) to

Line up the lower box stop (NN)

Rip the two access door bars

Attach back (JJ) between rear

Step 10.1 - walls

Use pocket holes on the top, bottom and

Roundover the front edges of shelf parts

Set adjustable shelf (WW) on shelf pins at

Line up top (KK)

Attach (KK) with glue and pocket screws

Step 13.1 - work surface

Step 14 - access panels

Attach the two access panels

Basic construction is complete

MITER SAW & UTILITY SHELVES

Step 15 - power strip

Secure your power strip, centered

Step 16 - miter saw shelf

Attach the two 12” folding shelf brackets to framing

Center your miter saw shelf (LL) on

Once you know you have enough

**If you extend (LL) further than 14”

Rip miter support (A) to

Secure to shelf (LL) with glue

Step 19 - utility shelf

CUTTING LIST ��5

MITER SAW & UTILITY SHELVES�� 22

TABLE SAW DUST COLLECTION�� 27

TABLE SAW BOXES �� 30

ROUTER SECTION �� 32

ROUTER TABLE FENCE�� 45

CABINET DOORS �� 50

TABLE SAW EXTENSION WING�� 53

BONUS: SIMPLE STOP BLOCKS�� 63