WOODWORKS: Intermediate project 2013-2014

Dog Bed

All dogs love a soft and cozy bed, so why not give your beloved pet a great-looking place to call its own! Made mostly of solid wood, it can be
varied to fit the size of any ready-made pad and the dog who’ll use it. It’s a great way for intermediate woodworkers to learn to make table saw
tongue-and-groove joints and recessed panels and to find out about biscuit joinery. And after you build it, you will learn more about applying stain
and using finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.

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tools required SHOPPING LIST

Hand Tools
Recommended Wood: Solid oak and hardwood veneer plywood
– Adjustable square
Note: Dimensions for this piece correlate with a pad that is 14-1/2" x 21". Buy the dog bed
pad before starting your project to make sure the dimensions work out.
Power Tools
– Table saw Parts Material Quantity
– Router table A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K 3/4" × 7-1/4" solid oak 8'
– Band saw L 3/4" plywood 2' × 2'
– Drill with drum sander or
– Orbital or finish sander 3/4" solid wood, glued up

Miscellaneous #10 Biscuits 8

– Tape measure Pad: Petco Orthopedic Dog Mat, www.petco.com
– Pencil
– Wood glue cutting list
– Safety glasses Note: Dimensions are for the recommended pad are 2-1/2" x 14-1/2" x 21", which are the
– 120- and 220-grit sandpaper inside dimensions of the bed. For larger or smaller or thicker pads, the stile, rail, panel, and
– Sanding block mattress board dimensions will need to be changed accordingly. For example, if the pad is 2"
– Clean, lint-free cloths wider and deeper, make all the rails 2" longer.
– Respirator
– Gloves for finishing Overall dimension: 2-1/2" x 14-1/2" x 21"
– Mineral spirits, for cleanup of
oil-based finishes Part Name Qty Dimension
– Good quality, natural-bristle brush A Front & Back Rails 3 3/4" × 2" × 191/4"
B Headboard Rail 1 3/4" × 51/2" × 191/4"
C Side Rail 4 3/4" × 2" × 123/4"
D Front Stiles 2 3/4" × 2" × 6"
E Back Stiles 2 3/4" × 2" × 8"
F Side Stiles 4 3/4" × 11/4" × 6"
G Side Panels 2 1/4" × 211/16" × 1211/16"
H Front Panels 2 1/4" × 211/16" × 193/16"
I Side Legs 1 (Glue-up Dimension) 3/4" × 11/4" × 15"
J Front & Back Legs 1 (Glue-up Dimension) 3/4" × 2" × 15"
K Inside Corners 4 3/4" × 11/4" × 33/4"
L Mattress Board 1 3/4" × 147/16" × 2015/16"

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS

Recommended Finish Alternate Finish
Prep: Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based) Prep: Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based)
Stain/Finish: Minwax® PolyShades®, Pecan, Gloss Stain: Minwax® Wood Finish™, English Chestnut
Finish: Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, Semi Gloss

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN

11. Glue together the two leg blanks, I and J (see Fig. 4).
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have
12. After the glue dries, cut the L-shaped piece to 7" long, enough for
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always
discuss them with your shop instructor. two 3" legs. It’s easier to do the rest of the work on the legs using two
• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a long pieces rather than four short ones.
tool to the project lumber.
Woodworker’s Tip: Leaving the leg material slightly (1/16")
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles. Wear the appropriate
thicker than the rail material will add visual interest to the result,
respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or
creating a slight reveal between the bottom edge of the panels and
other solvents.
top edge of the legs.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put
away all portable tools.
13. Lay out the leg angle by striking lines 1/4" from the inside
corners and 2” from the bottom ends of the legs (see Fig. 5).
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY
1. Cut the rails (A,B, and C) and the stiles (D and E) to length. Note 14. Cut the angle on a bandsaw. Sand the cuts.
that the back stiles (E) are cut longer than the finished length. If you
are making panels G and H from board stock and not plywood, start 15. Cut the legs to their final length, 3”.
by ripping the thickness of 3/4" stock in half and then planing it down
to 1/4" (see Fig. 1). 16. Set up a 45-degree chamfer bit in the router table.

2. Using a ripping blade in the table saw, cut the grooves for the 17. Set the height of the bit to 1/8" and chamfer the top edges of
panels. Set the blade to a height of 3/8". Position the table saw fence the legs. Use a back-up board to prevent splintering and to stabilize
so that two passes with each face against the fence produce a groove the leg.
just wide enough to receive the panel material; this ensures that the
grooves will be centered in the edges of the stiles and rails 18. To lay out the headboard (B), draw a line perpendicular from
(see Fig. 2). If a sliver of material remains in the middle, the middle of the top edge and make a mark from the edge so that the
reset the fence to remove it after first making all the grooves. dimension from the mark to the bottom edge is 5-1/2". Make a mark
on each stile (E) 6-1/4" from the bottom end.
Woodworker’s Tip: Use a flat top-grind blade for this process to
get a flat bottomed groove. Make test cuts in scrap that’s exactly 19. Put small clamps at these two marks. Set a thin flexible stick
the same thickness as the project material. Set the height of the between them and then pull the stick back to the mark on the
blade to 3/8”. Use a feather board to hold the material tight to the headboard. Trace the resulting curve on the stiles and the headboard
fence and a push stick to push the stock past the blade. (see Fig. 6).

3. Set up a 1/2" dado head in the table saw. Set the height of the 20. Using the band saw, cut the headboard curve and sand edges.
dado at 1/4" and set the fence so 3/8" of the dado head projects
past the fence. 21. Lay out the biscuit slots, 2 per corner. The centers should be
1-1/2" from the edge (see Fig. 7).
4. Make test cuts in scrap exactly the same thickness as the project
material. Form a tongue by making two passes over the dado blade, 22. Cut the slots for #10 biscuits.
flipping the piece between cuts.
23. Dry assemble the footboard corners. Mark the location of the
5. Adjust the dado height and the fence position until the tongue fits inside corner on the footboard.
perfectly into the groove.
24. Set up a 1/4" round-over bit in a router table. Round over the top
6. When cutting the tongues for A, B, and C, add a sacrificial fence to corners of the side rails completely, from end to end. Round over the
the miter gauge to prevent splintering on the exit side of the cuts outside corner of the footboard completely from end to end. Round
(see Fig. 3). over the inside corner of the footboard by stopping at the pencil lines
indicating the location of the inside corner. Round over both outside
7. Dry assemble the frames and measure for panels G and H. corners of the top of the headboard.

8. Cut panels G and H to size. 25. Sand all parts in direction of the wood grain.

9. Sand the panels and inside edges of frame pieces. Be careful not to 26. Glue and clamp the bed assembly, making sure it’s square and
round over the edges of the frame parts. that the bottom edges are perfectly flush, panel to panel (see Fig. 8).

10. Glue and clamp the frames. Check to make sure each frame is
perfectly square.
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Woodworker’s Tip: Be sure to wipe off any excess glue Before you stain
immediately. Dried glue will seal the pores of the wood and Carefully sand the parts in the direction of the grain. Start with
prevent it from absorbing your wood stain. Use an absorbent 120-grit paper and finish with 220-grit. Remove all the sanding
cloth soaked in water to remove the excess. Make sure the cloth is dust. Then proceed with the stain and finish of your choice.
soaked (not just damp) with water. The water will dilute the glue,
permitting the fibers of the cloth to absorb the glue with the RECOMMENDED STAIN AND FINISH
excess water. 1. Before applying Minwax® PolyShades®, apply Minwax® Pre-Stain
Wood Conditioner (oil-based), following the directions on the can.
27. Make the inside corners, K. The dimensions given, using a 3/4" Applying a pre-stain conditioner will help to ensure even absorption of
thick mattress board, leave 2-1/2" from the top of the mattress board stain and prevent blotchiness.
to the top of the rails. If you use a different dog pad (of different
thickness) you may need to change the length of the inside corners. 2. Apply Minwax® Polyshades® following the label directions. Use a
good quality, natural-bristle brush suitable for use with polyurethane.
28. Glue and clamp the inside corners, K, into the rail assembly. The Stir the can contents thoroughly before starting and periodically
corners need to project 1” past the bottom edge of the rails. during your work session.
Woodworker’s Tip: Instead of measuring for uniform projection 3. Dip the brush an inch or so into the can, gently tapping it against
of the inside corners, make a 1” spacer and position them with it. the inside to remove any excess. Do not wipe. Apply a very thin, even
If you are making a large dog bed, add additional support for the coat following the direction of the wood grain. Make sure to maintain
mattress board by gluing additional blocks to the inside faces of a “wet edge.” To minimize brush marks and bubbles after staining, tip
the panels. off the surface by holding the brush at a 45-degree angle and lightly
run the bristles over the entire wood surface. Allow the first coat to
29. The footboard still has a square outside corner that needs to be dry at least 6 hours.
rounded to match the other corners. This can easily be done by
hand sanding. 4. For the second coat, sand all surfaces lightly with very fine (000)
steel wool. Remove all dust. Apply a second coat of Polyshades®,
30. Sand the exterior surfaces of the bed. following the directions above. To achieve a deeper color, you may
apply a third coat after 6 hours or longer, repeating the application
31. Glue and clamp the legs to the inside corners (see Fig.9). The directions above.
chamfering done earlier on the top of the legs helps mask any
irregularities between the legs and the panels. ALTERNATE STAIN AND FINISH
Alt 1. Before applying Minwax® Wood Finish™, apply Minwax®
32. Cut plywood or solid wood to make the mattress bottom (L). Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (oil-based), following the directions
Solid wood should be edge-joined with glue. After finishing, set L in on the can. Applying a pre-stain wood conditioner will help to
place. In order to facilitate cleaning do not fasten the mattress board ensure even absorption of stain and prevent blotchiness.
in place.
Alt 2. Apply the Minwax® Wood Finish™ color you have chosen using
STAINING AND FINISHING a brush or a clean, lint-free cloth following the directions on the can.
Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short your A brush will help you get the stain into the inside corners. Allow the
sanding, preparation, and application time, don’t do it. These Wood Finish™ to sit for about 5 to 15 minutes, and then wipe off any
tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish. excess. To achieve a deeper color, you may apply a second coat after
Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and smoothness 4 to 6 hours, repeating the application directions for the first coat.
of the parts, that will have an impact on how people judge your Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the protective
craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result, follow the steps listed clear finish.
in this section as well as the instructions the finish manufacturer
puts on its products. Woodworker’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that
your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood.
FINISHING TIPS
• Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of Alt 3. Apply Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the
wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination directions on the can. Stir Polyurethane thoroughly. Using a good
and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before quality, natural-bristle brush, apply a thin coat. Allow the first coat to
making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick dry for 4 to 6 hours
reference on future projects.
Alt 4. To apply a second coat, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit
• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between sandpaper. Dust off and wipe all surfaces with a cloth lightly
coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to temperature, dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a second coat and set the
humidity and other climatic conditions. piece aside to dry for 4 to 6 hours.
• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that
stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from Alt 5. If desired, apply a third coat following step Alt 4. Allow the
forming a tight seal. final coat to dry 24 hours before normal use of the piece.

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PRODUCT SAFETY
For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read and
follow the safety warnings that manufacturers print on their labels.

WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping, or other means

may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust
or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,
especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead
or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective
equipment, such as properly fitted respirators (NIOSH approved)
and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call
the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in U.S.)
or contact your local health authority.

DANGER: Rags, steel wool, other waste soaked with oil-based stains
and clear finishes, and sanding residue may spontaneously catch fire
if improperly discarded. Immediately place rags, steel wool, other
waste soaked with oil-based products, and sanding residue in a
sealed, water-filled metal container. Dispose of in accordance with
local fire regulations.

When using oil-based wood finishing products:

CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALIPHATIC HYDROCARBONS.
Contents are COMBUSTIBLE. Keep away from heat and open flame.
VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid
overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure
fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye
watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, wear respiratory
protection (NIOSH approved), or leave the area. Avoid contact with
eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when
not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.

FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large

amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For
skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of
respiratory difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If
swallowed, call Poison Control Center, hospital emergency room,
or physician immediately.

DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG-TERM OVEREXPOSURE.

Contains solvents, which can cause permanent brain and nervous
system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating
and inhaling contents may be harmful or fatal.

WARNING: This product contains a chemical known to the

State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
reproductive harm.

DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF REACH

OF CHILDREN.
CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4326. Contact a physician for more
health information.

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FIG 1.

B E

F
F L

K K C

G
D I
A K C

H J F
I D
A
J

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FIG 2.

Pusher

Featherboard

Stile or Rail

FIG 3.

Backer
Board

A, B, or C

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FIG 4.

J I

FIG 5.

2"
1/4"

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FIG 6.

B
H
A

FIG 7.

C
D F
G

A
D H A
C G C

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FIG 8.
C G C

E
H

FIG 9.
A
H
A
D
F

K C

I G
J C

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