Zalando Additional

Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services 40 (2018) 188–203
Contents lists available at ScienceDirect
Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services

journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/jretconser
Help welcome or not: Understanding consumer shopping motivation in T

curated fashion retailing
⁎
Anna Kathrin Sebald , Frank Jacob
Department of Marketing, ESCP Europe Business School Berlin, Heubnerweg 8-10, D-14059 Berlin, Germany
A R T I C L E I N F O A B S T R A C T
Keywords: This study explores the motivational reasons for and against adopting curated retailing in fashion and apparel,
Curated retailing which little extant research addresses. In curated fashion retailing, stylists create personalized outfits to assist
Fashion consumers with their shopping. Because consumers vary in their demands, retailers must understand the dif-
Shopping motivation ferent factors influencing individual adoption decisions. For this purpose, we conducted 54 semi-structured
Salesperson consultation
interviews with consumers and non-consumers of curated fashion as well as stylists. The study enhances
knowledge of online shopping motivation in consulting-intensive retail sectors and provides further evidence of
the influence of contextual factors on shopping motivations. Most notably, we identify unique factors of cus-
tomized solutions, a characteristic feature of curated fashion retailing. From a managerial standpoint, our
findings provide retailers a lens through which they can better target marketing activities and improve sales
training.
1. Introduction so-called curated retailing is to support consumers in their shopping

process by preselecting products tailor-made to their individual pre-
E-commerce in the retailing sector is growing (Doherty and Ellis- ferences (Möhlenbruch et al., 2014). Originally emerging in the United
Chadwick, 2010); increasingly, consumers use the Internet as an addi- States, these personalized online shopping services have since grown
tional purchasing channel (Lissitsa and Kol, 2016). This development past their niche beginnings, spreading to other countries (Hett, 2015).
has prompted a shift in sales revenue in favor of web-based retailing For instance, in Germany, the service has primarily surged in popularity
(Center for Retail Research UK, 2017). This shift has spread to con- in fashion retailing since approximately 2012. Professional stylists not
sulting-intensive areas, which have commonly been marketed offline, only provide online help to consumers but create complete, persona-
though the impersonal and potentially overloaded nature of e-com- lized outfits. Currently in Germany, not only start-ups (e.g., Outfittery,
merce remains a drawback for many consumers (Holzwarth et al., Modomoto, Kisura) use the curated retailing logic, but also Zalando, the
2006). first pure-play fashion online retailer, has initiated a curated retail
For instance, consider fashion and apparel, the most popular e- business (Zalon). In addition, curated retailing has entered the offline
commerce retailing category (Euromonitor International, 2016). Here, shopping arena as well (Hütz, 2016). Small, family-owned traditional
consumer need for individual consultation is usually high (Brito et al., fashion stores have transferred their consultancy expertise to the In-
2015), in that products are comparatively standardized in size and ternet by adding a curated retailing service as an entry point for
shape, and collections and trends change several times a year (Rajamma ecommerce, an extension of their existing web presence, or an incentive
et al., 2007). To assist consumers with product recommendations and to to enter their stores.
improve the possibility for multi-attribute comparisons, many online Despite the popularity of curated retailing, such retailers are often
retailers have implemented recommender systems or avatars. Such in- not yet profitable because their customers’ average shopping basket
teractive technologies operate as virtual salespeople; however, genuine values and order frequencies are still too low. Moreover, many con-
interactivity is still missing, and the issue of information overload re- sumers show resistance to adopting the service from the beginning, in
mains in e-commerce (Baier and Stüber, 2010). contrast to marketers and researchers’ generally held but biased view
To compensate for both problems, a unique service innovation has that consumers are open toward innovations (Talke and Heidenreich,
recently gained attention in inspiration- and consultation-driven sectors 2014). To overcome this so-called pro-change bias in their thinking, it is
such as fashion, home furnishings, and cosmetics: The central idea of imperative for curated retailers to understand the motivational reasons
⁎
Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: asebald@escpeurope.eu (A.K. Sebald), fjacob@escpeurope.eu (F. Jacob).
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2017.10.008
Received 27 June 2017; Received in revised form 22 August 2017; Accepted 17 October 2017
Available online 06 November 2017
0969-6989/ © 2017 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
A.K. Sebald, F. Jacob Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services 40 (2018) 188–203
both for and against adoption. 2. Theoretical background

A growing body of literature examines differences between tradi-
tional and online shoppers (e.g., Mathwick et al., 2001; Rajamma et al., 2.1. Curated fashion retailing
2007; Srinivasan et al., 2002). Because curated retailing can be con-
sidered a hybrid between offline and online retailing, some motiva- Although curated retailing in fashion and apparel has recently
tional overlaps with both channels can be expected. However, making surged in popularity, research addressing the phenomenon is scant.
reliable assessments about curated retail shoppers’ motivations is dif- Only a few purely conceptual studies exist (Eisewicht, 2017;
ficult. To date, no empirical studies of curated retailing exist, and Gyllensvärd and Kaufmann, 2013; Möhlenbruch et al., 2014, 2016).
simply applying previous findings to this new sector of retailing may These studies unanimously underscore the high degree of service or-
neglect important motivations specific to it. For instance, when shop- ientation and personalization as decisive factors governing the success
pers decide to consult salespeople online for assistance, the interactions of curated retailing. Its distinct focus on consumer needs and tailor-
with salespeople may have different meanings for the consumer than in made solutions represents a pioneering approach in retailing
traditional retailing. In addition, it remains unclear why more online (Möhlenbruch et al., 2014, 2016). Indeed, given that salespeople offer
shoppers, many of whom are usually value-convenient and time-saving, expert advice and curated product selections, some researchers even
do not adopt curated retailing. call it a “re-traditionalization” of retailing (Eisewicht, 2017;
To achieve greater clarity in this respect, we address the following Gyllensvärd and Kaufmann, 2013).
research question: What are the motivational reasons for and against In contrast, the idea of curation and, more broadly, the role of in-
consumer adoption of curated retailing in ecommerce? In exploring termediaries have been the subject of research for a longer time period.
what motivates consumers to welcome styling help or not, this research Historically applied to the fields of art collections and museums
makes contributions in four respects. First, it extends knowledge about (O’Neill, 2007), the concept of curation has been used in areas such as
online shopping motivation in consulting-intensive retail sectors. In music, fashion, craft, and food (e.g., Hracs et al., 2013; Joosse and
particular, our results add the customized solution as a hitherto un- Hracs, 2015; Shultz, 2015), though no clear definition has emerged. An
documented but distinct predominant motivational reason in curated exception is Joosse and Hracs (2015, p.207); in their analysis of food
retailing, while supporting and broadening previous findings on retail curation, they define curation as “the interpreting, translating and
in general. Second, we respond to a call for follow-up research by Haas shaping of the marketplace through the practice of sorting, organizing,
and Kenning (2014, p. 438) who advocate that “future research should evaluating and ascribing value(s) to specific products.” In other words,
examine motivational aspects of consultation in other retail formats” as curators can provide universal or consumer-specific recommendations.
they do for department stores. Third, contrary to common practice in As such, this definition provides a useful lens through which re-
shopping motivation literature, the study seeks to shed light on reasons searchers can understand how intermediaries (e.g., collective buying
against adoption to conquer the pro-innovation bias repeatedly ob- groups, food bag services, food bloggers) provide consumers direction
served by recent research (e.g., Groß, 2016; Lian and Yen, 2014; Talke to their search for good food. Nonetheless, Joosse and Hracs (2015)
and Heidenreich, 2014). As such, this study offers additional evidence themselves acknowledge that curation must be understood in context
concerning the influence of contextual factors on shopping motivations. because the scope of activities can differ depending on industry, loca-
Fourth, we contribute by describing an emerging and novel retail trend tion, and scale. For instance, whereas evaluating new sourcing ar-
with significant future potential for both online and offline retailers. rangements is a central activity for food curators, fashion, cosmetic, and
We also provide guidance to retailers for practical decision making. furniture curators focus little on these arrangements.
For instance, our identification of curated retailing–specific motiva- Therefore, we opt for a more nuanced conceptualization of curation
tional reasons can help them better target their marketing activities and that places more emphasis on the specific nature of curated retailing.
increase customer engagement. In this context, several trend reports Curated retailing creates a new shopping experience; it incorporates
underscore the particular relevance of curated retailing for traditional convenient and effective shopping online and sales advice while fo-
brick-and-mortar retailers whose unique selling proposition has always cusing on solutions. To reflect these aspects, herein we use the fol-
been personal consultation (e.g., Boston Retail Partners, 2017; lowing definition: Curated retailing combines convenient online shop-
eMarketer, 2012; Magento, 2013). Thus, as mentioned previously, cu- ping with personal consultation service to provide a more personalized
rated retailing can support even small traditional retailers in differ- online experience through curated product selections, orientation and
entiating and competing against online retailers and to connect with a decision aids, and tailor-made solutions based on the customer's pre-
wider audience. ferences.
The article is structured as follows: We begin with theoretical In the context of curated fashion retailing, stylists take on the role of
background information on curated retailing, consumer adoption and curators. After registering for free, consumers must submit an online
resistance, and shopping motivations in retailing. Next, we detail our questionnaire detailing their fashion preferences (e.g., fashion style,
research methodology. Finally, we present results and implications for color, size, budget). In the next step, consumers choose a stylist, who
retailers. creates personalized outfits that are then shipped in the form of outfit
boxes. To further personalize the one-to-one interaction between con-
sumer and stylist, the consumer can optionally provide additional data
Fig. 1. Conceptualization of curated fashion retailing.
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via phone or online chat. The service is free of charge, and consumers reasons that go beyond the mere acquisition of products and services
pay only for the products retained (Gyllensvärd and Kaufmann, 2013). (Davis and Hodges, 2012).
Fig. 1 graphically depicts the process. Prior research shows that online and offline shoppers behave dif-
If the retailer is to remain competitive, it must understand the in- ferently (e.g., Alba et al., 1997; Chiang and Dholakia, 2003;
dividual adoption throughout the various process steps, as requests and Evanschitzky et al., 2004; Srinivasan et al., 2002). Online shoppers
needs differ. To do so requires deep knowledge of the determinants of correspondingly highly value convenience and time savings and de-
consumer acceptance and resistance. mand more product and information variety as well as more persona-
lized products than offline shoppers (Brashear et al., 2009; Szymanski
2.2. Reasons for and against adoption and Hise, 2000). Additionally, some online shoppers seek enjoyment
and escapism during their online sessions (To et al., 2007). Offline
Curated retailing can be considered a service innovation in retailing. shoppers, in contrast, generally prefer immediate possession of pro-
Although innovations require consumers to change their behaviors and ducts or services, haptic experiences, sensory stimulation from the store
attitudes, only few researchers have explicitly addressed the factors that environment, and social interaction (Balasubramanian, 1998; Rohm
negatively influence the adoption of innovations (e.g., Kleijnen et al., and Swaminathan, 2004). Offline shoppers who seek consultation with
2009; Lian and Yen, 2014). Instead, most research in the field of salespeople traditionally expect them to provide tailored information
adoption traditionally reveals a pro-change bias, supposing that con- and to reduce purchase uncertainty (Pieters et al., 1998; Ponder et al.,
sumers are open to change and new products (Talke and Heidenreich, 2006). Haas and Kenning (2014) extend this general understanding of
2014). salesperson consultation with three motivational reasons: (1) the utili-
According to Talke and Heidenreich (2014), however, consumers tarian factor efficiency orientation and two hedonic factors, (2) shop-
more typically exhibit resistance to change toward innovations. They ping enjoyment and (3) the disposition toward salespeople.
suggest that consumer reactions are context specific and identify three Previous studies indicate that gender has a moderating influence on
categories of contextual factors: adopter-specific (e.g., personality both online and offline shopping motivations (e.g., Hansen and Jensen,
traits, motivation, involvement, previous experience), situation-specific 2008; Hart et al., 2007; Torres et al., 2001). Traditionally, women place
(e.g., product and service usage, time pressure, retail environment a greater emphasis on shopping enjoyment, social interaction, and as-
specifics), and innovation-specific (e.g., compatibility, complexity, re- sortment uniqueness (Seock and Bailey, 2008), while men desire con-
lative advantage). venience, easily available information, and time savings in their shop-
This contextual categorization is in line with the behavioral rea- ping (Noble et al., 2006). In addition, women are less emotionally
soning perspective (e.g., Claudy et al., 2015; Gupta and Arora, 2017; gratified with online shopping because they have a greater need to
Westaby, 2005). In this theory, reasons are “specific subjective factors physically examine products before purchasing (Cho and Workman,
people use to explain their anticipated behavior” (Westaby, 2005, p. 2011). They also perceive greater inconvenience online because they do
100). By differentiating analytically between “reasons for” and “reasons not trust in the Internet as much as men do (Garbarino and Strahilevitz,
against” a certain behavior, behavioral reasoning theory allows re- 2004).
searchers to study the determinants for adoption and resistance to- As a hybrid between offline and online shopping, curated retailing
gether in a single decision framework. This distinction is even more unites convenient online shopping with personal consultation.
important considering that reasons for and against are distinct concepts However, extant knowledge on shopping motivation is not sufficient to
rather than mere opposites (Chatzidakis and Lee, 2012). For instance, make reliable and fully conclusive predictions concerning this new re-
consumers may value the benefits of curated retailing but still refuse to tail format. Moreover, the few purely conceptual, studies on curated
adopt it because of perceived image risks. Because the transferability of retailing (Eisewicht, 2017; Gyllensvärd and Kaufmann, 2013;
reasons theory has received general acceptance (Chatzidakis and Lee, Möhlenbruch et al., 2014, 2016) do not investigate or discuss shopping
2012), we adapt its “for” and “against” dichotomy in this study to the motivations. With our research endeavors, we aim to fill this gap.
context of shopping motivations in fashion retailing. Hereinafter, we
refer to motivational reasons, specifically to “motivations for adoption” 3. Methodology
(MFA) and “motivations against adoption” (MAA). Together with the
literature on shopping motivations, reasons theory provides a lens for 3.1. Research design and sample selection
exploring both positive and negative motivational reasons in curated
retailing. As outlined in the previous section, shopping motivation in retailing
has become an established field of research. The literature on curated
2.3. Shopping motivation in retailing retailing, however, is relatively sparse. Therefore, we used an ex-
plorative qualitative strategy. Qualitative methods in exploratory re-
Since Tauber (1972) seminal study on why consumers shop, shop- search facilitate a flexible approach (Neumann, 2014), and allow re-
ping motivation has become a commonly investigated concept in searchers to develop an in-depth understanding of distinct shopping
marketing-oriented consumer research. In this literature stream, shop- behaviors (King and Dennis, 2003). Furthermore, qualitative methods
ping motivations usually refer to “forces investigating behavior to sa- are suitable for eliciting context-specific motivational reasons as cate-
tisfy internal need states” (Westbrook and Black, 1985, p.89) and are gories (Claudy et al., 2015).
thus essential for a full understanding of consumer shopping activities. To this end, we applied a purposeful sampling strategy to recruit a
Motivations identified in previous research range from abstract to broad variety of participant groups for semi-structured interviews,
specific (Wagner and Rudolph, 2010). making use of several professional and personal contacts. Because
At present, the distinction between hedonic and utilitarian moti- shopping for apparel is driven by both hedonic and utilitarian reasons,
vational reasons represents the most widely used classification in lit- we chose it as an exemplary curated retailing context. To better account
erature (e.g., Arnold and Reynolds, 2012; Babin et al., 1994; Jones for motivational reasons against adoption, we included in our sample
et al., 2006). Accordingly, utilitarian shoppers value an efficient, non- not only consumers’ perspectives but also non-consumers’ and sales-
emotional, and task-related outcome to satisfy their actual needs, while people's (referred to as “stylists” henceforth) viewpoints. To date, little
hedonic shoppers are motivated by the desire for entertainment, sa- research investigates non-consumer perceptions of online shopping
tisfaction, and a pleasurable shopping experience itself. Because utili- (e.g. Faqih, 2016; Iglesias-Pradas et al., 2013), and stylists can capture
tarian and hedonic reasons can occur simultaneously (Westbrook and those motivational reasons consumers cannot easily express or of which
Black, 1985), it can be assumed that shopping is also influenced by they are not aware (McFarland et al., 2006). To tap into the insights of
190
Table 1 themes are generated beyond 40 interviews (Olson and Reynolds, 1983;
Sample characteristics. Wagner, 2007). The sample size for each participant group is also in
line with the literature, which suggests that 8–12 interviewees are
Groups Frequency Age (in Years)
sufficient to generate categories (Kvale, 2007; MacCracken, 1992).
20–29 30–39 40 or more
FC 10 6 1 3 3.2. Data collection and analysis

FNC 11 6 4 1
MC 11 7 4 0 We conducted the interviews primarily over the phone, with a few
MNC 10 6 4 0
S 12 6 5 1
exceptions in which we conducted them in person. The interviews were
intended to elicit retrospective and real-time insights into motivational
Notes: FC = Female Consumer, FNC = Female Non-Consumer, MC = Male Consumer, reasons for and against the adoption of curated retailing. We used a
MNC = Male Non-Consumer, S = Stylist. semi-structured set of open-ended questions that covered the (non-)
consumers’ motivational reasons, shopping experiences, and expecta-
stylists, we collaborated with a single German curated fashion retailer. tions when engaging with curated retailers. The semi-structured format
The consumer group, in contrast, covered perceptions related to various allowed interviewees to add new directions of interest, which enriched
curated fashion retailers to guarantee the independence of the con- the research (Mason, 2006). Interview participation was voluntary, and
sumer findings. confidentiality was assured. The interviews lasted between 15 and
In total, we conducted 54 semi-structured interviews within a three- 46 min each; we recorded them on tape and then transcribed them for
month period in Germany. Specifically, the sampling consisted of 21 further analysis.
consumers (FC = 10; MC = 11) and 21 non-consumers (FNC = 11; Using Mayring's (2000, 2014) qualitative content analysis approach
MNC = 10), both female and male, and 12 stylists (S). Table 1 presents for inductive category creation, we analyzed the data by unitizing and
sample characteristics. coding each sentence to abstract codes of similar meanings out of the
Although we aimed to vary the sample in terms of age, the number concrete interview material (Attride-Stirling, 2001; Ryan and Bernard,
of younger interviewees outweighs the number of older ones, which is 2003). We first organized the identified codes into 1st-order concepts,
not surprising considering that younger consumers are known to be then further distilled them into 2nd-order themes, and finally placed
more prone to using new technologies or innovations for product in- them into aggregate dimensions (Corley and Gioia, 2004; Gioia et al.,
formation, search, or evaluation (Papagiannidis et al., 2013; Wood, 2013). The coding process was supported by the QCAmap software and
2002). In addition, in line with prior motivational studies that control included revising and refining the category system after approximately
for gender differences (e.g., Bae and Lee, 2011; Garbarino and 50% of the content analysis to generate the aggregate dimensions
Strahilevitz, 2004; Hansen and Jensen, 2008), our sample includes a (Krippendorff, 2013; Mayring, 2000). In the 1st-order analysis, we were
proportionate distribution of men and women to reduce any biasing careful to retain interviewee terms, but we gradually became more
effects from the sample composition. The total sampling size of the abstract in subsequent states, making use of the wording provided by
consumer and non-consumer groups complies with recommendations in the existing literature.
literature on exploratory studies, which note that only a few additional To demonstrate the links between the category induction and the
Fig. 2. Data structure. Notes: MFA = Motivations for Adoption, MAA = Motivations against Adoption.
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Table 2
Frequency of motivational reasons mentioned by interview participants.
Consumer / non-consumer Stylist
Female Male
2nd Order themes FC (n = FNC (n = Total (n = MC (n = MNC (n = Total (n = Total (N = S (n = 12)

10) 11) 21) 11) 10) 21) 42)
Web Shopping Environment 1. Effort savings

MFA1.1 12 12 24 19 3 22 46 5
MFA1.2 3 1 4 7 0 7 11 2
MAA1.1 9 11 20 6 9 15 35 2
2. Time savings
MFA2.1 13 13 26 5 1 6 32 13
MFA2.2 6 3 9 2 0 2 11 2
MFA2.3 8 5 13 6 2 8 21 1
MAA2.1 8 1 9 2 2 4 13 3
3. Product Presentation
MFA3.1 8 2 10 1 1 2 12 4
MFA3.2 13 5 18 15 6 21 39 12
4. Variety seeking
MFA4.1 5 5 10 3 2 5 15 1
MFA4.2 2 3 5 3 1 4 9 3
Customized Solution 5. Product Search
MFA5.1 5 2 7 6 0 6 13 3
MFA5.2 3 3 6 1 0 1 7 1
MFA5.3 4 2 6 3 7 10 16 2
6. Interest in Product Combinations
MFA6.1 11 4 15 10 4 14 29 10
MFA6.2 10 2 12 2 0 2 14 8
MFA6.3 15 5 20 2 2 4 24 11
7. Desire for Change
MFA7.1 15 5 20 3 3 6 26 9
MFA7.2 2 1 3 1 2 3 6 10
8. Willingness to Innovate
MFA8.1 3 3 6 1 1 2 8 11
MFA8.2 4 3 7 1 0 1 8 8
Trust and Purchase 9. Product Performance Uncertainty
Uncertainty MFA9.1 4 3 7 7 1 8 15 1
MAA9.1 10 6 16 4 9 13 29 1
MAA9.2 8 4 12 3 8 11 23 0
10. Consumer Confidence
MAA10.1 7 22 29 3 19 22 51 0
MAA10.2 14 8 22 10 12 22 44 2
MAA10.3 0 1 1 5 2 7 8 7
MAA10.4 7 10 17 3 6 9 26 3
MAA10.5 4 3 7 0 4 4 11 0
11. Product Selection Support
MFA11.1 13 5 18 11 2 13 31 8
MFA11.2 22 5 27 8 9 17 44 16
MFA11.3 4 4 8 2 0 2 10 1
MFA11.4 10 10 20 5 2 7 27 6
MFA11.5 2 6 8 6 4 10 18 8
12. Willingness to Pay
MFA12.1 4 1 5 2 1 3 8 0
MAA12.1 7 7 14 9 9 18 32 5
Notes: The numeric columns count the absolute frequency with which the motivational reasons are mentioned by the participant groups.
data, we assembled concepts, themes, and dimensions into a graphic 4. Results and discussion
data structure, including only codes appearing at least five times in one
of the five participant groups in the data structure to reduce an excess of 4.1. Reasons for and against adoption of curated fashion retailing
coding. Finally, we used double coding to ensure greater analytical
reliability. Krippendorff's alpha (Hayes and Krippendorff, 2007; As Fig. 2 exemplifies, a distinct set of motivational reasons for
Neuendorf, 2002) for all 2nd-order themes was highly satisfactorily, (MFA) and against (MAA) adoption emerged from the interviews. Using
ranging between 0.83 and 0.94 (see Appendix A, Table A.1). For the these 1st-order concepts, we established three aggregate dimensions of
forthcoming discussion of our results, we primarily selected categories motivational reasons, which consisted of four 2nd-order themes each:
that provide new insights in a consulting-intensive retail context. (1) web shopping environment, (2) customized solution, and (3) trust
and purchase uncertainty.
Table 2 details these motivational reasons with the stated fre-
quencies obtained from the interview data.
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Fig. 3. The influence of contextual factors on motivational rea-

sons.
In the following subsections, we organize our empirical findings

according to the three aggregate dimensions. To highlight actual in- The preceding stylist quote supports the general business logic that
terviewee insights, we identify representative quotations at the 2nd- the demand for expert advice and personalization is one of the driving
order level of themes. Appendix B, Tables B1–B3, presents further forces behind curated retailing. Interviewees from all participant
sample quotes per dimension. groups suggested that consumers engaged with curated retailers for one
or more of the following reasons: product search, interest in product
4.1.1. Web shopping environment combinations, or desire for change and willingness to innovate. Hence,
In the utilitarian view, the majority of interviewees noted that it is customized solutions represent a distinctive and predominant motiva-
crucial for them to buy clothing in a timely (MFA2.1), flexible tional reason in curated retailing.
(MFA2.3), and convenient (MFA1.1) manner. Many consumers elabo- In this context, it is particularly noticeable that consumers primarily
rated on the benefits of the Web shopping environment: For example, sought possibilities to try out new styles (MFA7.1) and to receive outfit
“it's a fitting room at home” (MC1), and “after just two or three clicks, the inspiration (MFA6.1). Consequently, consumers expected stylists to
box was there a few days later” (MC2). Consequently, effort savings and support them in their efforts to dress tastefully while showing personal
time savings together formed top motivational reasons for curated re- style. In the words of a male consumer: The “intention was to think out of
tailing adoption, thereby confirming motivational parallels to online the box for a change, and let stylists put together a style” (MC4). Both male
retailing. Extant research on online shopping behavior also emphasizes and female interviewees commonly mentioned outfit inspiration
this convenience and time efficiency as key antecedents of online (MFA6.1) and styling advice (MFA11.2). Whereas men reported ex-
shopping adoption (e.g., Childers et al., 2001; To et al., 2007). periencing the most difficulty in creating outfits, women placed greater
For the curated retailing context, our study shows that men placed importance on receiving advice from stylists. This result conforms with
especially great importance on effortlessly trying on clothes at home the curated retailer Outfittery (2015) commissioned study on personal
(MFA1.1), whereas women appreciated the time savings aspect shopping, performed by an independent market research institute. Ac-
(MFA2.1). This finding further reinforces the literature (Noble et al., cording to this study, for 31% of the 1035 men interviewed, the outfit
2006) and supports the stylists’ view that convenient and easy shopping creation process was a stressful experience; in contrast, 27% of the 570
was particularly important for male consumers. Interestingly, most fe- female respondents enjoyed the purchase and the selection of clothing.
male respondents considered shopping not as a pastime but as a ne- This difference might be partly attributable to the finding that
cessity. We therefore conclude that women were more driven by utili- women put greater emphasis on personalized service offerings
tarian reasons than previous literature assumes. (MFA11.4) and the possibility of trying out new styles (MFA7.1) than
In addition, a sense of curiosity and the related surprise effect men do. Many stylists shared this view, though stylists perceived con-
(MFA3.2) represented a hedonic reason the consumer engaged in cu- sumers to be more trend conscious than those who assessed themselves
rated retailing. In the words of a female consumer: “In the beginning, (MFA8.1). Drawing on Rahman et al. (2014), who argue that the more
most of all, I was curious about how the service actually works, and what the consumers are involved in fashion, the more they will adopt new
stylists would suggest for me” (FC4). Although the positively received fashionable clothing, the average curated retailing consumer was likely
surprising levels of the service innovation can help to attract new to demonstrate low to moderate fashion involvement.
consumers, stylists related that many consumers – particularly young In providing tailor-made solutions, curated retailers transfer the fun-
ones – tested curated retailing only once. Thus, this reason is only short- damental idea of solution selling to the business-to-consumer market. To
lived, purchases on a regular basis do not always follow. Last, partici- date, researchers have mainly used the term “solution” in the business-to-
pants’ responses revealed that the likelihood of returns (MAA1.1) and business arena to refer to a tailor-made and integrated bundling of services
the lack of spontaneous availability (MAA2.1) may prevent many and products (Davies et al., 2006; Shepherd and Ahmed, 2000). Similarly,
consumers from making regular use of curated retailing. stylists work together with the consumer to interactively design solutions.
Consequently, our study indicates that integration with the consumer
4.1.2. Customized solution plays a pivotal role in customized retailing solutions. However, the non-
“About 80% of the consumers would like outfits; for example, women consumer sample mentioned reasons for customized solutions far less;
say that they often have difficulty finding a top to suit their skirt.” (S8) thus, it is reasonable to suggest that non-consumers expected stylist
193
consultation to create less added value. 4.2. Implications for retailers
Our study revealed a wide range of motivational reasons, grouped in

4.1.3. Trust and purchase uncertainty three aggregate dimensions: (1) web shopping environment, (2) cus-
Finally, both (non-)consumers and stylists commented on product tomized solutions, and (3) trust and purchase uncertainty. From a cu-
performance uncertainty, consumer confidence, product selection support, rated fashion retailer standpoint, these results have important im-
and willingness to pay as reasons for and against adopting curated re- plications.
tailing. In particular, consumers noted that they adopted it for easier First, only retailers who comprehend the complex nature of moti-
product selection (MFA11.1) and styling advice (MFA11.2), as the fol- vational reasons are in a position to create value to their consumers
lowing quotes summarize: “I often have difficulty choosing things from the (Davis and Hodges, 2012). Therefore, retailers must particularly ac-
huge selection available online” (MC11) and “It broadened my horizons” knowledge motivations against adoption. Their free outfit advice can
(FC1). Ironically, these quotes imply that although consumers were in- generate sustainable profit only if they succeed in increasing the con-
creasingly asking for greater product variety, some of them felt over- sumer's loyalty and shopping-basket value by significantly mitigating
whelmed by choice. negative reasons.
Consequently, and as is also apparent in the literature on informa- To this end, second, it is essential to consider that motivational reasons
tion search and salesperson consultation (Haas and Kenning, 2014; can vary according to gender. Though our study's focus is exploratory, and
Mortimer and Pressey, 2013), purchase uncertainty represents a crucial thus not sufficient to reliably evaluate gender differences and speak to
consumer motivator in our context. In relational sales settings such as their moderating influence in curated retailing, we regard gender as a
curated retailing, however, consumers are often reluctant to share promising avenue for future research. From a managerial standpoint, a
personal information with salespeople (Crosby et al., 1990). In line with better understanding of gender-related differences can aid retailers in
Haas and Kenning (2014), and contrary the predominant view in extant more effective customer targeting. Indeed, the existing curated retailing
consultation literature, we found consumers’ uncertainty to be only one practice reveals that gender might have played a role in strategic or-
among several determinants of consultation and adoption. ientation from the beginning: All pioneering curated retailers have limited
In addition, therefore, the data reveal that trust was a strong reason their target group to one gender first (e.g. Modomoto, Outfittery, Stitch
affecting the adoption of curated retailing, which depicts the pole op- Fix, Trunk Club), and only the latter two retailers have now expanded
posite to purchase uncertainty. This finding is consistent with previous their service to both genders. Moreover, many of these retailers exploit
research that considers trust a vital key in e-commerce because it helps gender-related aspects for communication purposes; for example,
conquer perceptions of risk and uncertainty (Gefen, 2000; McKnight Outfittery advertises with the slogan “Shopping for men.”
et al., 2002). In curated retailing particularly, stylists are the primary Beyond that, it is particularly important to address the influence of
point of contact for the consumer. Our interviews show that, as such, contextual factors on motivational reasons. Recent research establishes
they are in the position to promote or endanger trust, service quality that consumers’ adoption decision depends on factors related to the
and shopping experience. Unlike other research indicating that women situation, innovation, and person (e.g., Talke and Heidenreich, 2014;
value social interaction more than men do (Seock and Bailey, 2008), Wejnert, 2002). In line with Talke and Heidenreich (2014), we there-
more female respondents considered the direct contact with stylists too fore conceptualize the 1st-order concepts from the web shopping en-
personal (MAA10.4). It might be the one-to-one nature of the consulting vironment as situation-specific reasons, from customized solution as
relationship that exerted psychological buying pressure, such that many innovation-specific reasons, and from trust and purchase uncertainty as
women felt forced to keep at least one product. adopter-specific reasons (Fig. 3).
Continuing with the non-adoption of curated retailing, consumer As shown in Fig. 3, the web shopping environment dimension is
confidence played a significant role, given the high number of non- situation specific, and thus, curated retailers do not have a unique
consumer quotes pertaining to this topic. Non-consumers especially characteristic on which to differentiate themselves from online re-
noted their higher confidence in their own fashion taste (MAA10.1), tailers. Moreover, considerable research already addresses consumers’
which prevented them from adopting curated retailing, and which preference for convenient online shopping (e.g., Brashear et al., 2009;
might be related to their attempt to keep control over stylist selection Ganesh et al., 2010); therefore, this situation-specific dimension reflects
(MAA10.2). Corroborating previous research (e.g. Clarke and Miller, little new insight worth discussing. Nevertheless, from an operations
2002; Majima, 2008), this finding supports the notion that fashion standpoint, it is important to be aware that returns and environmental
shopping represents expenditures with particular personal importance, concerns as well as the lack of spontaneous availability (customers must
defining one's self-image and inducing feelings of social embarrassment. wait two to three weeks for outfit box delivery) were common reasons
For instance, both men and women in our study stated that they felt less against adoption. Consequently, retailers must consider how to make
confident about the stylists’ fashion sense or taste and the quality of the service more environmentally friendly (e.g., send fewer items
consulting service: “Rather than trusting salespeople, I usually prefer to rely physically), and how to create a fast-lane process.
on myself or on those who are close to me and know me and what I’m like” Above all, the crucial difference between curated retailing and
(FNC3). The men interviewed noted that their higher confidence in common online retailing lies in the provision of customized solutions.
their own fashion taste may be linked to their lower preference for To the best of our knowledge, this reason has not yet been a focus of
trying out new fashion styles (MFA7.1) and to their greater fear of past motivational studies in retailing. In particular, this move toward
wearing the stylist's selection (MAA10.3), compared with women. The offering solutions in retailing reflects the consumer shift to delegate
high consumer confidence we noted among women interviewed can be activities to the retailer and to access its knowledge (Lovelock and
explained by their typically higher levels of fashion involvement. Gummesson, 2004). Stylists become consultants in that consumers do
Surprisingly, not a single stylist mentioned this particular reason not buy fashion but rather solutions to the challenge of dressing to
against adoption (MAA10.1). Overall, stylists rarely mentioned con- reflect personal style. Importantly, and as Fig. 3 indicates, this reason is
sumer confidence–related reasons. Instead, they highlighted product innovation-specific and therefore under retailers’ control. For retailers,
selection support as a strong motivation for adoption, suggesting that this finding implies the necessity of identifying consumer reasons and
consumers usually require their reassurance and guidance when shop- problems at an early stage to understand their role in the solution
ping. process. To illustrate, stylist respondents perceived themselves as trend
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coaches, but the majority of consumer respondents did not pursue against adoption. Thus, we posit that customized solutions represent
trends and did not want to be coached accordingly. Stylists should the central reason for adopting curated retailing. Our results may also
therefore be more careful not to burden consumers with the most have implications for research on other inspiration- and consultation-
fashionable clothing. driven sectors in retailing, for example, cosmetics or furniture. In such
With respect to understanding such reasons against adoption, the areas of application, it is reasonable to conclude that consumers want
trust and purchase uncertainty dimensions are particularly important, curated retailers to provide solutions tailored to their needs. Following
though these dimensions are difficult to influence because they pre- an integrated multi-channel approach, curated retailing will provide
dominantly mirror enduring consumer characteristics. However, cu- many opportunities for traditional brick-and-mortar retailers as well. In
rated retailing requires consumers to change their shopping habits, so the future, personalized experiences and customized solutions will be
retailers must cultivate high levels of trust in their stylists. Once there is critical differentiators in all retail formats.
sufficient trust, ideally even critical consumers would hand over the To conclude, however, our study is limited to a single research
responsibility for finding products and share even tacit knowledge. context, and our results depend on the specific design of the curated
To do so, retailers should harmonize marketing communications, retailing offer; therefore, it should be considered exploratory. Future
consumer targeting activities, and stylist trainings with motivational empirical evidence from other product categories and from cultural
reasons. A suggesting for marketing would be communicating the op- settings other than Germany would allow more generalization. Another
tion of an outfit preview to increase consumer control, for instance. limitation is the study's qualitative nature, due to semi-structured in-
Moreover, consumers should be targeted by communicating less on terviews. Consequently, future research should test our results applying
tailor-made interpretation of fashion trends and instead more on outfit a quantitative approach together with a broader sampling. As stated
and style inspiration, and personalized service. Furthermore, stylist earlier, for instance, investigating whether gender has a moderating
training should focus on sensitizing them to the importance of adjusting role on the motivational reasons found here can build better under-
their sales tactics to consumers’ unique reasons for adopting the service. standing of consumer behavior in this context. Above all, clustering
consumers according to similarity of their motivational reasons to
5. Conclusions, limitations, and future research identify the most profitable consumer segments might aid retailers in
targeting the right consumers. Moreover, and as indicated previously,
This study deepens understanding of a unique service innovation in we suggested the importance of customized solutions in curated re-
the modern retailing environment: curated retailing. By investigating tailing. Future research could analyze the varying roles and customized
what motivates (non-) consumers to welcome styling help or not, it solution approaches of stylists, and further evidence from other solution
offers new evidence for the discussion on motivational reasons for and contexts would increase both theoretical and managerial value.
against adopting curated retailing. Moreover, we provide further evi-
dence on the influence of contextual factors on motivational reasons in
retailing. Our analysis identifies a variety of motivational reasons, and Acknowledgments
we distilled them into three aggregate dimensions: (1) web shopping
environment, (2) customized solutions, and (3) trust and purchase The authors would like to thank the anonymous reviewers for their
uncertainty. These results allow us to not merely support but also to valuable comments and suggestions. The authors also acknowledge
broaden existing knowledge in traditional and online retailing. with thanks Prof. Robert Wilken, who gave much valuable advice on
Specifically, we find that in fashion, providing customized solutions earlier versions of this paper, and Christian Günther and Dimitri
represents a key reason for adopting curated retailing, while trust and Dekanozishvili who assisted during data analysis. Research funding by
purchase uncertainty are crucial to better understand the reasons the ESCP Europe Research Funding is gratefully acknowledged as well.
Appendix A. Inter-coder reliability
See Table A.1.
Table A.1
Calculating inter-coder reliability using Krippendorff's alpha.
2nd Order themes Alpha
1. Effort savings 0.93

2. Time savings 0.94
3. Product Presentation 0.84
4. Variety seeking 0.85
5. Product Search 0.83
6. Interest in Product Combinations 0.92
7. Desire for Change 0.85
8. Willingness to Innovate 0.84
9. Product Performance Uncertainty 0.85
10. Consumer Confidence 0.90
11. Product Selection Support 0.93
12. Willingness to Pay 0.92
Appendix B. Representative quotations
See Tables B.1–B.3.
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Table B.1
Data supporting the dimension “Web Shopping Environment”.
2nd Order themes Associated 1st order concepts Representative quotations
1. Effort savings MFA1.1 Effortlessly trying clothes FC7: It is more pleasant because, at the shop, I have to walk through. It's hot, it's winter now, and I'm starting to sweat. So these are the comfort factors.
A.K. Sebald, F. Jacob
at home FNC1: It's much nicer trying the things on in my own time at home, and taking them back if I have to, rather than squeezing myself into a fitting room …
well, for me, that's not a pleasant shopping experience. I find it very annoying. It's strenuous.
MC1: It's a fitting room at home – I was able to just try everything on, and wasn't confined to some strange triangular cubicle.
MNC4: I don't like finding all the clothes and gathering them together. I prefer to have them sent to me at home where I can try them on at my
convenience.
S11: Customers say the fact that they can try the clothes on at home creates a convenient, pleasant shopping experience.
MFA1.2 Ease of use FC6: The questionnaire was very detailed. What I found good was that each product category was considered and all my body measurements were
gathered.
FNC5: I found the ease of use especially positive.
MC2: After just two or three clicks, the box was there a few days later. That was super!
MNC: (not mentioned)
S8: The majority of existing customers say: "You have a good feel for it. The last outfits were super." That's why many of them really appreciate the simple
order process.
MAA1.1 Returns FC4: What bothers me about this business model is that these huge packages are being sent all over the place all the time. And you are constantly aware
that it isn't good for the environment.
FNC6: Of course, you have to give a little thought to what and how much you're doing to the environment when you send packages here and there, just to
be tried on, and nothing comes of it in the end.
MC8: Then I have to invest time, and enter my order details etc., and in the end the problem is again that I have to send the clothes back again, which I
find frustrating somehow. So then I'd rather go to the city center to do my shopping there.
MNC9: In the store, I can try the clothes on directly and I am not forced to order several things in different sizes all at once, just to send some of them back
again. That is such an effort and to be honest, it really irritates me.
S3: Many people find the return process a bother, and older folk in particular are unsure whether the service really is free.
2. Time savings MFA2.1 No time for shopping FC2: I usually don't have the time to get everything done in town. Yeah, I don't have the time and I can't be bothered.
FNC2: I find the service extremely attractive and brilliant. Especially if you don't have much time, like me. The service is a huge time-saver, especially if
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you have to work a lot.
MC1: For me, it was a very efficient experience and thus really positive because it didn't take up much of my time.
MNC9: One advantage would be the time element because it obviously saves me the time of having to search for clothes for three hours. I can invest the
time I save into something else.
S1: Well, the vast majority of the customers simply don't have the time for shopping.
MFA2.2 No long journey to the FC8: In my hometown, the choice of stores and thus the variety of brands is very limited. This means that if I want to find anything, I always have to visit
nearest city stores that are further away.
FNC7: Curated Shopping is easy and quick. I don't have to leave the house and, most of all, I don't have to travel into town.
MC5: I live too far from town and have to travel a long way every time I go shopping.
S9: Some customers report that their shopping options are limited since they live in a small town or a village.
MFA2.3 Flexibility FC8: At home, I can look at the clothes and check whether they go with other clothes of mine.
FNC11: Because of the online components, I become far more flexible and can have much more put together for me.
MC10: I can place an order whenever I want to. That's actually the most important thing for me, that it doesn't matter where you are and when.
MNC5: Shopping becomes independent of time; I can do it when I want to, and I'm not bound by store opening times.
S1: Somehow, the customer can always find time to place an order sometime. Then I pack their box and send it to them at home or even at the office and
at the post office.
MAA2.1 No spontaneous FC1: Well, curated retailing is useless for spontaneous occasions … it's a complete drawback. If I need something immediately for an occasion and not just
availability some new casual outfits for the summer, then waiting three weeks just isn't an option.
FNC6: Well, if it isn't too crowded in town then I enjoy going to the shops on a whim because then I can try things on straight away.
MC4: Sometimes, you need things and you have to wait one week, two weeks until the package arrives, and then the clothes don't suit you anyway. So you
have to order everything in advance so that it arrives in time for the season.
MNC6: In my opinion, one criticism would be that it requires a certain flexibility.
S11: I think the time factor when it comes to delivery also plays a very big role. Seven days is a bit too much for an impatient person.
(continued on next page)
Table B.1 (continued)
3. Product Presentation MFA3.1 Outfit box FC8: The box had been packed really, really beautifully. So I you're already happy right then.
FNC2: The box is also very pretty. You get excited when the box arrives.
MC1: I was positively surprised by the presentation of the clothes, and I was also surprised by the little touch of the handwritten greeting card from the
stylist.
MNC4: The box is also supposed to be very personally presented, with a handwritten stylist message. I think that's a cool idea, and I definitely want to try
it out for myself.
S11: The customers look forward to opening up the box at home. I have loads of customers who say it's like Christmas when the box arrives.
MFA3.2 Curiosity and surprise FC4: In the beginning, most of all, I was curious about how the service actually works, and what the stylists would suggest for me.
effect FNC3: The driving reason for trying it would actually be curiosity as to whether other people would really manage to find something to suit my taste.
MC5: And I think it's exciting, because someone else is choosing something for somebody.
MNC6: On one hand, it would be the aspect of curiosity as to what the stylists are going to put together, based on the preferences I have given them.
S2: One customer stated: For me, it's exciting to see what someone who doesn't know anything about me is going to recommend for me.
4. Variety MFA4.1 Large product range FC10: I find that you always have a broader selection online. You state your preferences and then let someone put several things together for you, from
various stores.
FNC11: I suspect that the range is much broader.
MC9: I believe you find a wider selection of clothes.
MNC7: You can definitely expect a greater selection of clothes.
S5: The range is enormous, and most of all, it covers every price bracket, from the lowest price bracket to coats for several thousand Euros each.
MFA4.2 Product quality FC3: The high quality products were decisive.
FNC7: High quality is essential.
MC3: Product quality is important to me, and this service offers just that.
MNC7: Quality is an important criterion that speaks for this service.
S9: In the case of the older customers, the quality of the fabric is key.
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Table B.2
Data supporting the dimension “Customized Solution”.
5. Product Search MFA5.1 Search for a specific fashion

product FC6: Well, what I found especially cool was that I can now let somebody else look for the clothes I
can't find myself.
FNC10: It's great that when I need an item of clothing, a stylist goes on a search for it.
MC11: I have also started collecting pictures of cool outfits that I see. And I plan to send the pictures
to the stylist afterwards.
S2: Well, there are also customers who have specific style suggestions. And they send us pictures of
specific items of clothing.
MFA5.2 Pre-selection of fashion FC8: Well, for everyday casual clothing, I'd like to have an unusual article of clothing, something
products special rather than a complete outfit.
FNC8: What would be interesting for me, would be if I could combine the individual items in one of
these packages with items that I already have at home to improve my own wardrobe and make up my
own outfits."
MC11: I use the service much more specifically now than I did the first time. Now I exactly tell the
stylist what items I need.
S8: There are also women who say, "I've already bought a dress for a party myself, but now I need a
cardigan to go with it." Then I select two or three items for her, to match her specific garment. But
that doesn't apply to the majority of customers.
MFA5.3 Reduction of search costs FC5: One thing that comes to mind about curated retailing is that for me, I get information very
quickly.
FNC6: Both the online and offline selection are too much for me. It takes too long.
MC11: The main advantage for me is that I don't feel like looking through all of the items on the
Internet. That's what bugs me most about online shopping. That's why I find the service so good – that
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they pick out the best items to suit my taste from the main online offering. And after that I can still
pick.
MNC6: Of course, curated retailing also minimizes the effort of searching because somebody sends
me a complete outfit in the right size. Of course, that's very appealing.
S1: Well, from the customers' point of view, our service saves a lot of search time.
6. Interest in Product MFA6.1 Outfit inspiration FC1: I'm looking for inspiration for outfits that go well together, to get an idea of what an outfit like
Combinations that could look like.
FNC4: When you buy individual items, you don't have anything to match. So, you never quite sort out
the whole jigsaw puzzle.
MC8: I was looking for a few different ideas. For example, in the first box, there was an outfit that I
would never have put together like that, but it looked really cool. It gave me new outfit inspiration.
MNC6: New combinations that you wouldn't find in the stores like that would be super.
S8: About 80% of the consumers would like outfits, e.g. women say that they often have difficulty
finding a top to suit their skirt.
MFA6.2 Lack of creativity in creating FC7: I can't combine clothes well on my own.
fashion outfits FNC11: Often, you don't have the creativity or the flexibility yourself.
MC6: It naturally makes it easier to really find an outfit that goes well together, rather than having to
go through the entire range in the store. Especially when, like me, you aren't all that fashion
conscious and creative.
S9: Many women simply find it difficult to combine items. Lots of them buy nice individual items for
themselves, but then don't have anything to put them with.
MFA6.3 Outfit demand for special FC6: I think the service is cool, especially for weddings or special occasions.
occasion FNC7: I could imagine it for outfits for weddings. That's where searching online really annoys me,
because you tend to search aimlessly, without really having an idea of what you want.
MC3: I always order for the seasons.
MNC7: For me, it would mainly be interesting for clothes that aren't for everyday use, but rather, say,
suits, where you aren't always completely up to date in terms of current fashion trends.
S2: They are often customers who are looking for something for a specific occasion.
7. Desire for Change MFA7.1 Possibility to try out new FC4: I find it very interesting to try out something new. But if you're really honest, when you go
fashion styles shopping yourself, 90% of the time you reach for things that are similar to things you already have at
home.
FNC3: One of the advantages would be to find that other clothes suit me that I might never have
picked up for myself.
MC2: And there are always things in the box that I probably wouldn't have chosen for myself at the
store.
MNC2: With this service, you can also expand your wardrobe a bit, even with styles that I haven't
discovered yet. Actually, that's what I found most interesting.
S4: So you notice that customers often say: "I always wear blue, but I feel like something in a different
color and I'm open for something new."
MFA7.2 Style Coaching FC7: I felt I needed a few clothes that would make me look a little more mature. That's why I wanted
some style coaching, so that I could dress appropriately for my age.
FNC6: I would use it, because it could simply give me other ideas that I wouldn't have come up
without this style coaching.
MC4: My intention was to think out of the box for a change, and let stylists put together a style for
me.
MNC4: I would find it really cool if you could deviate from your usual style, and try out new styles.
S3: My impression is that the average housewife definitely tends to turn to us for coaching.
8. Willingness to Innovate MFA8.1 Search for the latest fashion FC2: That's exactly why I use curated retailing, especially when it comes to designer jeans, for
trend products example. I'm not really up to date anymore and that's why I want some to tell me, "Where jeans are
concerned, this is in at the moment."
FNC2: Especially here in Munich, when I see all the trendy people, then I think to myself: "Where can
I get a piece of clothing exactly like that?" If the curated retailing service then took over the search for
trends, that would be extremely attractive for me.
MC3: Since I have been using the curated retailing service, I'm always dressed on trend and I
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sometimes even have clothes that are hard to find in the stores.
MNC2: It would be good if they would suggest on-trend items to me.
S9: There are also some trend-conscious people, but very few. Often, it is the younger people who are
looking for particular on-trend items, or who even say, I think this celebrity is great, and I would love
to be styled like that individual.
MFA8.2 Tailor-made interpretation of FC4: They convert the trends into actual wearable fashion, and that's what I find interesting about the
fashion trends whole service.
FNC10: I think the personal contact with the stylists results in the trend recommendations being far
better adapted to the individual than is possible with these computer-generated recommendations.
MC6: Well, the awareness of trends and the adaptation of them to suit individuals are also one of the
reasons for using it.
S8: Some customers say: "Hey, I have seen this and that; this is the current trend. Can you put
something together for me that picks up on the trend and adapt it for my type?"
Table B.3
Data supporting the dimension “Trust and Purchase Uncertainty”.
Second order themes Associated first order concepts Representative quotations
9. Product Performance MFA9.1 Free shipping and returns FC1: It's not great if you have to send something back. But there are quite a few options now. For example, sometimes you can also have it
Uncertainty collected. I think that's great.

FNC9: I don't find having to send stuff back that bad. The stick-on label and everything else are already there, so that it doesn't bother me. I
order other stuff online too, anyway.
MC6: Returning the box is free. That's also important. If I couldn't send it back for free, it would probably be a deal-breaker, and I would
steer clear of it.
MNC2: I appreciate being able to return stuff for free.
S1: Customers like that they can now also have the box picked up by the post office.
MAA9.1 No fitting accuracy guaranteed FC9: When it comes to online shopping in particular, it frustrates me when I've ordered something and it doesn't fit.
FNC9: My size would be a problem if I were to use the service. I always need small things and it's difficult as it is just to find them in the
stores, so I don't think that the stylists would send me the appropriate sizes.
MC6: An obvious disadvantage is, as it is with online shopping in general, that they always only send me one size, which means that if it is
too big or too small.
MNC2: I am very tall and it is therefore always a problem for me to find clothes that fit.
S10: One problem the customers have is the fit.
MAA9.2 No haptic and visual appearance FC4: I like to hold clothes in my hands, so the quality and the materials are very important to me. It's just different when you can feel the
of product guaranteed clothes under your fingers, rather than merely seeing a picture online and ordering based on that.
FNC8: What really bothers me about using the service is that I can't touch the textiles.
MC11: Most of all with this service, you can't pick up and touch the clothes straight away.
MNC1: I simply prefer to see the clothing first-hand, in the store.
S10: To begin with, the haptic aspect is simply not available to the customer.
10. Consumer Confidence MAA10.1 Higher confidence in own FC4: I have the feeling that I know my own style better and am therefore better able to put outfits together for myself.
fashion taste FNC3: Rather than trusting salespeople, I usually prefer to rely on myself or on those who are close to me and know me and what I'm like.
MC11: Some suggestions were simply too far removed from my own tastes, and that was a problem.
MNC1: Actually, the main reason is that I don't want to hand this task over to somebody else. I think that my taste is good enough and that I
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don't need any advice from someone else looking for clothes for me.
S: (not mentioned)
MAA10.2 Lack of control over stylist FC4: I would prefer fewer fashion boxes, but larger ones, so that I have more choice in future.
selection FNC7: I simply prefer to decide for myself. I have never been good at accepting someone else making decisions for me.
MC10: It involves decisions that I basically prefer to make myself.
MNC1: I don't want to cede this authority to someone else. And besides, I don't want to let anybody else choose them for me. In fact, I won't
be using the service in future for this reason.
S1: There are also customers who say, "No, I prefer to go shopping myself, because I'm not interested in others choosing my clothes for me."
MAA10.3 Little courage to wear stylist FC: (not mentioned)
selection FNC3: I'm not as keen on experimenting as I think you'd need to be for this.
MC5: Firstly, I'm not really bold enough to wear the outfits, and they wouldn't match my personality. For this reason, I wouldn't continue to
try it out any longer.
MNC4: I'm just not fashion-conscious enough.
S5: Customers aren't all that bold, either, so then they just stick with T-shirts, jeans and sweaters rather than more unusual garments.
MAA10.4 Direct contact with stylists is FC10: I would have preferred it if the service had been a little more anonymous. The fact that I had a photo of a stylist affected my
"too personal" purchasing behavior - how many items I was going to keep, etc.
FNC7: It would be an absolute no-go for me if the contact became too personal. I don't want stylists also asking about my personal fashion
preferences.
MC6: Quite honestly, I have no desire to discuss all those personal aspects and feedback with the stylist on the phone.
MNC6: No, I wouldn't be at all interested in reciprocal interaction. It would be enough for me if, with a single click, new outfits were put
together for me at specific intervals.
S1: My customers said that the contact was a little uncomfortable for them.
MAA10.5 Social shopping FC4: For me, the shopping experience counts. I simply enjoy shopping for the sake of it. In the end, it's about spending an enjoyable day
with friends.
FNC2: Shopping, especially with others, is a lot of fun. If I had to rate it, I'd say 100%. No, 150%!
MC: (not mentioned)
MNC1: The shopping experience is not necessarily about buying clothes, but rather the activities that go with the shopping (e.g. having a
coffee in between) are much more important to me.
S: (not mentioned)
Second order themes Associated first order concepts Representative quotations
11. Product Selection Support MFA11.1 Difficulty in selecting products FC10: The main advantage is that you get something put together for yourself, without having to put a lot of thought into it.
FNC1: Basically, it saves me the hard work of going through all the online pages.
MC11: I find the service so good because I often have difficulty choosing things from the huge selection available online.
MNC2: I think that their knowledge of what goes well together is simply better than mine. Personal style consultants have that famous gut-
feeling and pay attention to all the little nuances that play a part in selection.
S8: Customers enjoy not having to put a lot of thought into it, or they feel it takes the pressure off.
MFA11.2 Need for styling advice FC1: It broadened my horizons.
FNC2: You get personal advice – a second pair of eyes. On your own, you're not so sure either whether the colors will come out the same.
MC6: Besides the stylist, I can also ask someone else around the house what he or she thinks.
MNC4: Normally, I ask my mom or my brother what they think, but the service could certainly replace this second opinion, so I could well
imagine that.
S1: Many people are really overburdened by the whole subject of "fashion".
MFA11.3 Reduced purchase pressure FC1: At home, you really have the peace and quiet to try the clothes on and ask yourself, do I really want them, or do I actually not want
them at all?
FNC4: Then you have a selection at home and you can try them on and even walk around in them for ten minutes.
MC6: If I really couldn't care less that day, then I can potentially even try the clothes on the next day, or I can take a day to think it over.
S4: Customers want enough time to think things over and come to a decision.
MFA11.4 Personalized service FC1: For very particular requests, personal contact is much better, and when you're having a conversation, often a lot more questions arise
and inaccuracies are uncovered. The stylist, as a professional, will notice them.
FNC8: They look after you as a customer.
MC1: With curated retailing, I've seen the benefit that style consultants can make recommendations that are exactly tailored to suit you. For
me, that was a different value proposition than the 08/15 sales assistant in a shop can offer.
MNC2: Because I thought the idea that you get your own personal fashion consultant was totally cool.
S1: You can see that they really know they need help.
MFA11.5 Shopping antipathy FC2: I don't like shopping much.
201
FNC4: I'm not your typical woman who loves shopping. I'd prefer it if I could just wave a magic wand and the clothes magically appeared in
my wardrobe.
MC1: I've simply got better things to do – things that I enjoy more.
MNC8: Shopping is more a hassle.
S10: Perhaps a quarter of customers don't like shopping.
12. Willingness to Pay MFA12.1 Self-gratification FC3: The boxes are also kind of presents.
FNC8: It's satisfying and gratifying.
MC3: You're working, too, and you want to spoil yourself from time to time.
MNC1: I always love going shopping. Often, it's a bit like a reward. So curated retailing would more likely trigger feelings of happiness.
S: (not mentioned)
MAA12.1 Higher shopping basket value FC2: Of course, they try to get you to spend more money, but otherwise, I see no disadvantages.
and volume than usual FNC2: Yes, the price would be a disadvantage for me. I mean, I'd absolutely love to use it, but I'm not playing in that salary league yet.
MC10: It's always a question of money. If you order a box like that, even if it is a cheaper one, it quickly adds up to half a month's salary if
you bought the whole lot.
MNC12: It's just too expensive for me.
S1: Some people only want to pay ten Euros for a T-shirt. Of course, we can't help in that case.
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Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services 40 (2018) 188–203

Contents lists available at ScienceDirect

Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services

Help welcome or not: Understanding consumer shopping motivation in T

1. Introduction so-called curated retailing is to support consumers in their shopping

both for and against adoption. 2. Theoretical background

Fig. 1. Conceptualization of curated fashion retailing.

FC 10 6 1 3 3.2. Data collection and analysis

Consumer / non-consumer Stylist

2nd Order themes FC (n = FNC (n = Total (n = MC (n = MNC (n = Total (n = Total (N = S (n = 12)

Web Shopping Environment 1. Eﬀort savings

Fig. 3. The inﬂuence of contextual factors on motivational rea-

In the following subsections, we organize our empirical ﬁndings

consultation to create less added value. 4.2. Implications for retailers

Our study revealed a wide range of motivational reasons, grouped in

Appendix A. Inter-coder reliability

See Table A.1.

2nd Order themes Alpha

1. Eﬀort savings 0.93

Appendix B. Representative quotations

See Tables B.1–B.3.

2nd Order themes Associated 1st order concepts Representative quotations

2nd Order themes Associated 1st order concepts Representative quotations

2nd Order themes Associated 1st order concepts Representative quotations

5. Product Search MFA5.1 Search for a speciﬁc fashion

2nd Order themes Associated 1st order concepts Representative quotations

Second order themes Associated ﬁrst order concepts Representative quotations

Uncertainty collected. I think that's great.

Second order themes Associated ﬁrst order concepts Representative quotations

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