Brindille & Twig sewing pattern and tutorial

119 bummies
BODY MEASUREMENTS: INCHES AND (CM):
SIZE WAIST CHEST HEIGHT INSEAM HEAD

Preemie (44) 14” (35.5cm) 13.75 (35) 17.5 (44) 5 (13) 13.75 (35)

Newborn (52) 16 (40.75) 15.5 (39.25) 20.5 (52) 6.75 (17) 15 (38)

0-3 (62 17.5 (44.5) 17 (43.25) 24 (62) 8.5 (21.50 16.5 (42.25)

3-6 (68) 18.5 (47) 18 (45.75) 27 (68) 10 (25.75) 17.5 (44.75)

6-9 (74) 19 (48.25) 18.5 (47) 29 (74) 11.25 (28.5) 18 (46)

9-12 (78) 19.5 (49.5) 19 (48.25) 30.5 (78) 12 (30.5) 18.5 (47.25)

12-18 (84) 20.25 (51.5) 19.75 (50.25) 33 (84) 13.5 (34) 19 (48.5)

18-24 (90) 21 (53.25) 20.5 (52) 35 (90) 14 (35.5) 20 (50.75)

2-3 (96) 21.5 (54.75) 21 (53.25) 38 (96) 15.5 (39.75) 20.25 (51.5)

FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENTS: INCHES AND (CM):

SIZE ACROSS WAIST LEG OPENING SIDE SEAM

Preemie (44) 5.5 (14) 6 (15.2) 3.6 (9.1)

Newborn (52) 6 (15.2) 6.5 (16.5) 3.9 (9.9)

0-3 (62) 6.5 (16.5) 7 (17.8) 4.2 (10.7)

3-6 (68) 7 (17.8) 7.5 (19) 4.35 (11)

6-9 (74) 7.25 (18.4) 8 (20.3) 4.5 (11.4)

9-12 (78) 7.5 (19) 8.5 (21.6) 4.6 (11.7)

12-18 (84) 7.75 (19.7) 9 (22.9) 4.7 (11.9)

18-24 (90) 8 (20.3) 9.5 (24.1) 4.85 (12.3)

2-3 (96) 8.25 (21) 10 (25.4) 5 (12.7)

ELASTIC MEASUREMENTS: INCHES AND (CM):

SIZE Preemie NB (52) 0-3 (62) 3-6 (68) 6-9 (74) 9-12 (78) 12-18 (84) 18-24 (90) 2-3 (96)

Waist elas- 12 (30.5) 13 (33) 14 (35.6) 15 (38.1) 15.5 16 (40.6) 16.5 17 (43.2) 17.5
tic - cut 1 (39.4) (41.9) (44.5)
Leg elastic- 6.5 (16.5) 7 (17.8) 7.5 (19) 8 (20.3) 8.5 (21.6) 9 (22.9) 9.5 (24.1) 10 (25.4) 10.5
cut 2 (26.7)
 Follow photos to print pattern (these photos are just an example and may not represent your pattern)
Open the pattern file in Adobe Acrobat Reader (free program you can get here if you don’t have it yet)

Click the layers icon

to the left of the page

Deselect any sizes

you don’twant to
print by clicking the
‘eye’ icon

Go to ‘file’ then ‘print’ to

open the print dialog.
Select actual size.
You can print on letter or A4
paper
Print the pattern- the pages should look similar to the ones below
Cut around the black outlining boxes of each page and tape them together based on the numbered circles in
the corners

This is what pattern 119 will look

like after being printed.

The only page that needs to be

taped is the back bottom of the
elastic version.
 Become familiar with some sewing terms (these are examples and may not apply to your pattern)

Cut on fold: Place the labeled

‘fold line’ along the folded edge
of the fabric. Cut out the pattern
piece through both layers of
fabric and open to get the full piece

Fabric folded over

folded edge

After being cut out Notch: Needs to be clipped when cutting the pieces
out. It will be ndicated by a small line at the place that needs
to be marked. Examples: Center of a pants waist or center
neck of a shirt piece. Mostly used when a piece is cut on the
fold. Although, may be used at other times as well. You will
make a 1/8” (2mm) cut into the fabric at that point. It will be
used to match pieces later.

Full piece opened after being cut out

Cut opposites: For some

pieces, a right and a left side need to
be cut. Example: Hoods, some pants
and some sleeves.
To get the opposite pieces, cut
1 with the pattern facing up like the
first photo and 1 with the pattern
facing down like the second photo.
You can also cut once on a piece of
fabric that has been folded over
to get 2 layers
Grainline: Grainline is very important because it affects the way your fabric stretches.
If the grainline is vertical, the stretch is horizontal.
In most cases the stretch should be horizontal ‘going around the body’ so the grainline should be
vertical.
If the grainline isn’t easily visible you can stretch the fabric to see it better.

Piece of fabric cut edge

grainline direction

selvage edge
selvage edge

stretch direction

The selvage edge will usually be a little stiff cut edge

with some holes in it from the
manufacturing process.
The grainline runs parallel to the selvage
edge

Right sides together: Meaning, the right sides of the fabric will be laying together.
This is the way most seams are sewn so the seam is only visible on the wrong side (inside) of the
fabric.
Assume that the fabrics will always be right-side-together unless otherwise specified.
FABRIC / MACHINE / NOTION REQUIREMENTS FOR THIS TUTORIAL
BASED ON FABRIC 58” (147CM) WIDE

Knit fabric. Most light-medium weight knit fabrics will work.

SIZE PM and NB: 1/4 yard (meter)
SIZES 0-3M to 2-3T: 1/2 yard

Optional: 20”-30” (50-76cm) long drawstring for waistband. I suggest a knit fabric
cut out 1” wide. Most materials will work though.

1” (2.5cm) wide elastic for waistband. Measurements on page 2.

If using leg elastic: 1/4” (6mm) wide elastic for legs. Measurements on page 2.
Sewing machine

Serger (if you don’t have one you can use a small zig-zag stitch in place of all serged seams)

Scissors or rotary cutter

Pins

1/4” (6mm) seam allowances

Begin!
included in all pieces
From your fabric cut
-1 full front
-1 full back
-If using bands then 2 leg bands

From elastic cut

-1 waist length
-If using for legs then 2 leg lengths
For both styles serge down the sides and across the crotch
area with front and back RST (right sides together)

If doing bands: Fold them in half par-

allel to the grainline RST and serge the Fold them in half wrong sides together
edge closed to form the bands. Seam will be hidden
inside

grainline

Place the band inside the leg opening

so seam is on the back half. Folded
edge will be inside, raw edges lined up
on the leg hole.
Serge the band to the leg hole, evenly stretch-
ing it to fit.

Serge around the waist edge

For the elastic legs: Serge around the leg

hole and waist edge.

Fold the leg hole inseam inside 3/8” and

top stitch around at 3/8” (1 cm).

Leave a gap of about 1” (2.5cm) between the

start and end of your seam for the elastic to
be inserted.
Place a safety pin on both ends
of the leg elastic and thread
through the leg casing.

Overlap the elastic by approx. 3/4” (2cm)

and sew together.

Pull the elastic inside the leg casing all the way and
stitch the gap closed.
For both styles, fold the waistband inside at 1.25”
(3.2cm)

Topstitch around the waist at 1.25” to form the

elastic casing. Leave a gap of about 2” (5cm)
between the start and end of the seam to insert
the elastic.

Place a safety pin in both ends of the

waist elastic.

Thread it through the waistband casing

Overlap the elastic ends by about 3/4”
(2cm) and stitch together.

Pull the elastic all the way inside the

waist and stitch the gap closed.
If you want to do a drawstring, clip 2 tiny
holes at the center front waist about 1”
(2.5cm) apart.

Thread the drawstring through the waist

on top of the elastic.

Lock stitch the drawstring at the

center back of the waist.

Knot the drawstring ends and iron to

complete!
 Brindille & Twig
[ ON THE WEB ]

Official website: Brindilletwig.com

Official Facebook page: Facebook.com/brindilleandtwigpatterns

Best place to interact with other sewers, ask questions and show
off your creations: Facebook.com/groups/brindilleandtwig

Property of Brindille and Twig 2018

This pattern may not be published on the internet or other-
wise, it may not be copied, duplicated or distributed in any
form. This pattern is protected under copyright
 FRONT BAND VERSION

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

1/4” SEAM ALLOWANCE

FOLD LINE
INCLUDED IN ALL PIECES

NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119

1
 BACK BAND VERSION

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

FOLD LINE
NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119

1
 FRONT ELASTIC VERSION

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

FOLD LINE
NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119

 BACK ELASTIC VERSION

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD
FOLD LINE

18-24m
9-12m
12-18m
6-9m
NB
2-3t
0-3m
PM
3-6m
B&T pattern 119
1
 1

SIZE GUIDE
Measure to ensure printing accuracy
3.5 INCHES (8.9 cm)

Preemie (44):
NB (52):
0-3 (62):
3-6 (68):
6-9 (74):
9-12 (78):
12-18 (84):
18-24 (90):

2.5 INCHES (6.35 cm)

pattern 119: bummies

2-3 (96):

Letter or A4 print format

Br i n d i l l e & Tw i g
LEG BAND

GRAINLINE
CUT 2
18-24m
9-12m
12-18m
6-9m
NB
2-3t
0-3m
PM
3-6m
B&T pattern 119
 SIZE GUIDE
Measure to ensure printing accuracy
3.5 INCHES (8.9 cm)

Preemie (44):
NB (52):

2.5 INCHES (6.35 cm)

0-3 (62):

Br i n d i l l e & Tw i g
3-6 (68):
6-9 (74):
9-12 (78):
12-18 (84):
pattern 119: bummies 18-24 (90):
2-3 (96):
A0 print format

FRONT BAND VERSION

GRAINLINE

CUT 1 ON FOLD
FRONT ELASTIC VERSION

GRAINLINE
BACK BAND VERSION
1/4” SEAM ALLOWANCE BACK ELASTIC VERSION

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

FOLD LINE
INCLUDED IN ALL PIECES

GRAINLINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

FOLD LINE
CUT 1 ON FOLD

FOLD LINE
FOLD LINE
NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119

NB NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119 NB

PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m B&T pattern 119
B&T pattern 119

LEG BAND
GRAINLINE

CUT 2
NB
PM
6-9m
2-3t
0-3m
3-6m
9-12m
18-24m
12-18m

B&T pattern 119