Juegos de Zorro Sonaja y Mas

Baby Kit Fox Milo
FOX MILO / RATTLE / BABY BLANKET
© Tarturumies
© 2018 - 2020 / María Bernadette Pozzi . A pattern by Tarturumies / María Bernadette Pozzi - All rights reserved.
For personal use only. The pattern or parts of it may not be: distributed or resold, translated into any language, altered, reproduced, published or shared (free or for sale) online or printed.
For any question you can contact us at www.tarturumies.com or email at tarturumies@gmail.com
INDEX
1. Abbreviations 1
2. Materials List 1
3. Tools 2
4. Measurements 2
5. Difficulty level 2
- Tips 2
6. Color change technique 3
7. The Sweet Milo 4 - 17
- Head 4-6
- Ears 7
- Body 8
- Cheeks 8
- Front Legs 9
- Back Legs 9
- Tail 10
- Neck 11 - 12
- Assemble 13 - 16
- Fox Details 17
8. Rattle Milo 18 - 21
- Head 18 - 19
- Ears 19
- Cheeks 20
- Piece to join the ring with the head 20
- Rattle Neck 20
- Rattle Assemble 21
9. Baby Blanket Milo 22 - 26
- Head 22 - 23
- Ears 23
INDEX
- Cheeks 23
- Baby Blanket Neck 23
- Spheres 23
- Blanket 24 - 25
- Baby Blanket Assemble 26
10. Baby Kit Fox Milo finished 27
11. Use of our patterns 28
© Tarturumies
What do you need to start ?
1. ABBREVIATIONS (US Terminology)
 approx. = Approximately  mm = millimeter(s)

 ch = chain stitch  mr = magic ring
 cm = Centimeters  sc = single crochet
 dc = double crochet  sl st = slip stitch
 dec = decrease (invisible)  st = stitch
 FO = fasten off  rep = repeat
 hdc = half double crochet  rnd(s)= round(s)
 inc = increase  * * x…= repeat instructions in asterisks … times
 Continuous round = Crochet all followed, without closing the rounds (help yourself with a stitch marker to know where the next round begins)
 Joined round = Go closing every rounds and climb to the next turn with a chain.
 Worked in Rows = Crochet in a base of chains and turning the crochet at the end each row.
2. MATERIALS LIST
 Yarns: we will be detailed the brands and their colors next to the approximate grams (remember that this is using the hook that we will indicate in tools
and the yarn suggested in materials. In case of any changing, the grams and size of the amigurumis can change).
HILATURAS LM - Cotton Nature 3.5

Content: 100% cotton Width: 8 ply / DK / worsted / 2 mm measured with centimeter (0.078 inches)
Recommended Hook: 3,5 - 4,5mm Weight / Yardage: 1.8 oz (50gr) = approx 112 yds (103 m - each ball)
• (A) Orange - colour 4114 165 gr + or - • (D) White - colour 50 10 gr + or -
• (B) Brown - colour 4102 57 gr + or - • (E) Light Brown - colour 4130 7 gr + or -

• (C) Off White - colour 4099 50 gr + or -
DROPS Safran
Content: 100% cotton egyptian Width: 5 ply / sport / 1 mm measured with centimeter (0.039 inches)
Recommended Hook: 3 mm Weight / Yardage: 1.8 oz (50gr) = approx 175 yds (160 m - each ball)
• (F) Off White - uni colour 18 7 gr + or -
DROPS Love You # 7

Content: 100% classic 8/4 cotton Width: 5 ply / sport / 1 mm measured with centimeter (0.039 inches)
Recommended Hook: 3,5 mm Weight / Yardage: 1.8 oz (50gr) = approx 186 yds (170 m - each ball)
• (G) Light Pink - colour 14 2 gr + or -
The letters between ( ) will be one of the ways to distinguish in the explanations the color is to be used in each part.
 Fiberfill (to stuff)  Natural Wood Teething Ring 70mm (diameter approx.)
 Safety Eyes, 1 pair each: 9 mm ( 0.355 inches) / 10 mm ( 0.394 in-  1 or 2 rattle box (it contains small plastic pellets to make the rattle sound -
ches) / 12 mm ( 0.473 inches) photo 65 on page 20)
1
3. TOOLS
 2,5mm Hook (Clover Amour - UK 12)

 3mm Hook (Clover Amour - UK 11)
 Yarn Needle (to sew parts of amigurumi and embroider the eyes and nose)
 Stitch Markers (they're very useful to mark the first stitch of each round and not get lost - If you don’t have it, you can replace it with a safety pin or with a piece
of yarn of another color to see it easily)
 Sewing Pins (to help when assembling)

 Scissors / Centimeter or Ruler
4. MEASUREMENTS 5. DIFFICULTY LEVEL
 Milo is about 18.5 cm high (7.28 inches approx.)  The level of the pattern is MEDIUM.
 The Rattle is about 15.5 cm high (6.10 inches approx.)  You must have previous knowledge of reading diagrams, crochet
 The Baby Blanket is about 29 cm high (11.41 inches approx.– inclu- and the stitches mentioned in the section of Abbreviations (page
ding head, blanket and spheres) 1)
 On page 3 you will find help with the techniques of changing color
Before starting, some TIPS ...
 For a good result, we advise you to use the size of hook indicated in tools and the wide yarn indicated in the materials. It's not necessary to use
the same yarn brand, as long as the width matches. If you want to make the change to the hook you normally use and it's another number, consi-
der changing the yarn width according to it. And remember ... with any change you make the amigurumi will also change.
 Maybe, you don't know how to make the Cross Stitch Single Crochet. If you have not yet tried it, we encourage you to do, it's very nice for amigu-
rumis. To make the Cross Stitch Single Crochet you must introduce the hook as usual and take the yarn by placing the hook on top of it, then
introduce it back to your side and finish the single crochet as usual. And that's it ... your perfect Cross Stitch!
 Try to tighten the stitches a little, not too much, but just enough to make sure there're no space among them that make the filling look. If you ob-
serve that you have very space among the stitches, you can try to change the number of hook to a smaller one and see if you find it better (keep
in mind, as we have said before, that you can change the size of amigurumi)
 Stuff the parts with patience as you crochet. It's always good that you adapt the filling by molding each part with your hands, in this way the filling
will fit much better.
 In the parts that you should crochet in rows you will find this term: 1 ch (to climb) ... this means that you must make that extra chain stitch to be
able to crochet comfortably, but you should not count it as a stitch in the 1st row.
 If you make the amigurumi for some kid, as in this case, be careful with the safety eyes. To make them safer, very carefully you can burn with a
lighter the stick of the eye so it melts and is well held, this must be done once the washer is put on and with caution. If you don’t want to use
safety eyes, can replace it by embroidering the eyes.
 We hope these tips are useful, now you only have ... Start and Enjoy!!!
2
6. Color Change Technique
1 2 3
The last step of the last single crochet (of the color that you're using at that moment) you must finish it with the yarn of the new color. Follow the other single
crochet with the new color until making the next change again with the same technique.
Discover our world in: www.tarturumies.com
… And we're going to

enjoy together this
new adventure...
Hi… My
name is
MILO….
© Tarturumies
3
7. The sweet MILO
HEAD colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

Round Description Stitches
Start with color A

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x6 (24)
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x6 (30)
6. *4 sc, 1 inc* x6 (36)
7. *5 sc, 1 inc* x6 (42)
8. *6 sc, 1 inc* x6 (48)
9. *7 sc, 1 inc* x6 (54)
10. *8 sc, 1 inc* x6 (60)
11 - 18. 1 sc in each st (60)
From here, you'll begin to combine the colors (A) - (C).

Within the < > you'll see the color that corresponds to use and followed the sc that you'll do with that color (see color change technique on page 3)
19. < (A) 14sc >, < (C) 3sc in the same sc base, 1 inc, 3sc in the same sc base, 26sc, 3sc in the same sc base, (70)
1 inc, 3sc in the same sc base>, < (A) 14sc>. (photos 1 - 3)
1 2 3
20. < (A) 14sc >, < (C) 42sc >, < (A) 14sc >. (70)
21. < (A) 14sc >, < (C) *2sc, 1dec* x2, 26sc, *2sc, 1dec* x2>, < (A) 14sc >. (66)
22. < (A) 9sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 6sc, 1dec, 9sc, 1dec, 9sc, 1dec, 8sc >, < (A) 1sc, 1dec, 9sc, 1dec >. (60)
23. < (A) 8sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 5sc, 1dec, 8sc, 1dec, 8sc, 1dec, 8sc >, < (A) 1dec, 8sc, 1dec >. (54)
24. < (A) 7sc, 1dec, 3sc>, < (C) 4sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec >, < (A) 7sc, 1dec >. (48)
25. < (A) 6sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 3sc, 1dec, 6sc, 1dec, 6sc, 1dec, 6sc, 1dec >, < (A) 6sc, 1dec >. (42)
28. < (A) 3sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec, 3sc, 1dec >, < (A) 3sc, 1dec >. (24)
29. < (A) 2sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec >, < (C) 2sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec, 2sc, 1dec >, < (A) 2sc, 1dec >. (18)
Don't stuff it yet. FO, leaving a long tail of both color A and C.
(On the next page, you'll find the photographs and the steps to follow with the head)
4
7. The sweet MILO
HEAD CONTINUATION
- Place the eyes between the Rnds.18 / 19 counting from the top. Take reference sc of color C in Rnd.19 to be able to place them, count of each side 15sc
(photo 4). They should be between the eyes 12sc away, count them in Rnd.18 (photo 5).
12sc of distance between the eyes

Count 15sc on each side on
the Rnd.19 and place the
eyes with their washers
security.
Rnds.18 / 19
4 5
- Embroider the nose on the Rnd.19, between the eyes and with a long strand of color B. Make a V and embroider it completely (photos 6-8). Finish the nose
embroidering a vertical line on Rnd.20 (photos 9 - 10).
6 7 8
9 10
5
7. The sweet MILO
HEAD CONTINUATION
- Embroider the top line of the eye with A color, make two turns (photo 11), takes the ends of the yarns inside and direct them to the hollow of down, make knots
among if so that they're subject. Continue embroidering the line under the eye with D color, make a turn and also knot in thehole (photo 12).
- Finally, stuff the head and fit the stuffing well with your hands. While stuffing, leave all the long yarn strands left out, so if you must accommodate or pull, you
can easily see them (photos 13 - 14).
11 12 13
14
6
7. The sweet MILO
EARS
The ears will be composed of two parts, the outer ears and the inner ears. Of both, two pieces must be made.
OUTER EARS x2
colors A / B - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.
Start with color B

1. Magic Ring (3)
2. *1 inc* x3 (6)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x3 (9)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x3 (12)
Change to color A
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x3 (15)
6. *4 sc, 1 inc* x3 (18)
7. *5 sc, 1 inc* x3 (21)
8 - 9. 1 sc in each st (21)
FO, leaving a long tail (photo 15)

15
16 INNER EARS x2 color E - worked in continuous round and 2,5 hook.
1. Magic Ring (6)

2. *1 sc, 3sc in the same sc base* x3 (12)

The internal ears will have a triangle shape.
Keep in mind, that the off white yarn of the ears is more fine than the off
white yarn that you'll use for the rest of the body. In case you want to use
the same body yarn for the ears, you can make the triangles until to
Rnd.2 so that they have approximately the same size. If you make the
change, will be more bulky.
7
7. The sweet MILO
BODY color A - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

1. Magic Ring (6)

2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x6 (24)
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x6 (30)
6. *4 sc, 1 inc* x6 (36)
7. *5 sc, 1 inc* x6 (42)
8. *6 sc, 1 inc* x6 (48)
9 - 15. 1 sc in each st (48)
16. *6 sc, 1 dec* x6 (42)
17. 1 sc in each st (42)
18. *5 sc, 1 dec* x6 (36)
20. *4 sc, 1 dec* x6 (30)
22. *3 sc, 1 dec* x6 (24)
24. *2 sc, 1 dec* x6 (18)
25. 1 sc in each st (18) 17
Stuff the body as you crochet. FO. (photo 17)
CHEEKS x2 color F - worked in joined round and 2,5 hook.

1. Magic Ring (6)

18
8
7. The sweet MILO
FRONT LEGS x2
colors A / B- worked in continuous round and 3 hook.
Start with color B

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *3 sc, 1 inc* x3 (15)
4 - 6. 1 sc in each st (15)
7. *3 sc, 1 dec* x3 (12)
8 - 9. 1 sc in each st (12)
Change to color A
10 - 18. 1 sc in each st (12)
Stuff the front legs as you crochet. FO, leaving a long tail (photo
19
19)
BACK LEGS x2
colors A / B - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.
Start with color B

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x6 (24)
5 - 7. 1 sc in each st (24)
8. 6 sc, *1 dec* x6, 6 sc (18)
9. *4 sc, 1 dec* x3 (15)
10 - 12. 1 sc in each st (15)
Change to color A
13 - 14. 1 sc in each st (15)
20 Stuff the back legs as you crochet. FO, leaving a long tail (photo
20)
9
7. The sweet MILO
TAIL colors A / B / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

Start with color C

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 sc, 1 inc* x3 (9)
3. *2 sc, 1 inc* x3 (12)
4. *3 sc, 1 inc* x3 (15)
5. *4 sc, 1 inc* x3 (18)
6. *5 sc, 1 inc* x3 (21)
7. *6 sc, 1 inc* x3 (24)
21
8. *7 sc, 1 inc* x3 (27)
9. *8 sc, 1 inc* x3 (30)
Change to color B
Change to color A
11 - 20. 1 sc in each st (30)
21. *8 sc, 1 dec* x3 (27)
22. *7 sc, 1 dec* x3 (24)
23. *6 sc, 1 dec* x3 (21)
24. *5 sc, 1 dec* x3 (18)
25 . *4 sc, 1 dec* x3 (15)
26 - 29. 1 sc in each st (15)
Stuff the tail as you crochet. FO, leaving a long tail (photos 21 -
22) 22
10
7. The sweet MILO
NECK color C - worked in rows and 3 hook.

Row Description Stitches
The neck is made with a base of ch and sc. On it has a total of 5 figures, each of them you'll have to crochet them in rows
and separately. To fully understand the steps, take a look with the table, diagram and photos.
31 ch + 1 ch (to climb - photo 23) (32)
1. 1 sc in each st (photo 24) (31)
Turn the crochet and start with 3ch (will be the 1st dc - photo 25), 4dc in the same sc base with the previous 3ch (photo 26), skip 3sc
2. (8)
of base and the next stitch make 1sc (photo 27)
3. Turn the crochet again and start with 5ch in the air (photo 28), 1sc (on the 1st dc of the previous row - photo 29) (6)
Once again, turn the crochet and start with 1ch, 7hdc (inside the base of ch to the air - photo 30), 1sl st on the Row 1 (skip a 1sc
from the final sc of Row 2 - photo 31)
4. (9)
To start the next figure, don't turn the crochet and make the 3ch after making the final sl st of this row - photo 32 ; you'll only turn
from here in Rows 3 and 4).
Repeat from Row 2 to Row 4 to complete the other figures (diagram below and photos of step by step on the next page)
DIAGRAM NECK FOX MILO < 5 FIGURES >
= sl st = ch = sc = hdc = dc
2 3
© 2018 - 2020 Tarturumies - www.tarturumies.com
11
7. The sweet MILO
NECK CONTINUATION
Photos step by step.
Row 2 = 3ch (will be the 1st
31 ch+ 1 ch (to climb) Row 1 = 1sc in each st

23 24 25
Row 2 = 4dc (in the same sc base with the Row 2 = skip 3sc of base and the next stitch
previous 3ch ) make 1sc
(skip the 3sc of base) Row 3 = 5ch in the air

26 27 28
Row 4 = 1sl st on the Row 1 (skip a 1sc from the

Row 3 = on the 1st dc of the previous row final sc of Row 2)
(skip a 1 sc of base)
Row 4 = 1ch, 7hdc
29 (inside the base of ch to the air ) 30 31
It begins with the following figure, make the 3ch
after making the final sl st of the Row 4.
Repeat from Row 2 to Row 4.
The 5 complete figures
32 33
12
7. The sweet MILO
ASSEMBLE FOX
Begin to assemble with the help of the steps and photos.
1.– Sew the ears to the head (photos 34 - 40). First, sew the inner ear inside the outer ear (photo 34), then place it on the head between Rnds. 6 and 12 coun-
ting from the top (photo 35) and guide yourself with the edge of color C (photo 36). Sew with the colored yarn A to the head all around, when you get to the
inner ear, take the edge of the outer ear to sew it (photos 37 - 38). You already have the ears sewn (photos 39 - 40).
Rnds. 6 to 12
Edge
color C
34 35 36
37
38
39
40
13
7. The sweet MILO
CONTINUATION ASSEMBLE FOX

Follow the assemble with the help of the steps and photos.
2.– Sew the head to the body with the colored strands A and C when each color corresponds, centered and with the help of pins (photos 41 - 47). By having two
different colors, you can hide the seam according to how you insert the needle. One trick is to do the following 3 steps andrepeat them until you finish sewing:
1º insert the needle inside - 2º insert the needle on the outside - 3º insert the needle inside (photos 41 - 42).
When you finish the first part of color A, take the needle inside to the other side and then continue sewing with that colorthe other part of that color (photo 43).
Take color C and sew the part that corresponds to that color (photos 44 - 45). Before finishing sewing, fill the neck a little more to reinforce it and finish closing
(photo 46). You already have the head sewn to the body, if you want more firmness you can choose to place a wire inside to reinforce it (photo 47).
2º insert the
needle on the
outside
1º insert the
needle inside
3º insert the
needle inside
41 42
43
44
45
46
47
14
7. The sweet MILO

Follow the assemble with the help of the steps and photos.
3.– Place the neck with one of the figures on the front (photo 48), behind there should be two figures on the sides (photo 49). Sewing it around the base row of
sc it has, leaving the figures loose so they're separated from the body (photos 50 - 51).
48 49 50 51
Figure
forward
4.– Sew the back legs to the body between Rnds. 6 and 10 counting from the bottom. Sew only the part of the color A and the leg facing forward, as if sitting
(photo 52). They'll be loose and you'll be able to accommodate them as you wish (photos 53 - 54).
Rnd.10
Rnd.6
52
53 54
15
7. The sweet MILO

Finish the assemble with the help of the steps and photos.
5.– Sew the front legs to the body between Rnds. 18 and 19 counting 6.– Sew the cheeks between Rnds.19 and 21 counting from the top and
from the bottom. Sew only the top part, one on each side and leave 5sc of one on each side of the eyes (photo 57).
distance between them. They'll be loose and you'll be able to accommo- If you want, you can sew the cheeks when assemble the head.
date them as you wish (photos 55 - 56).
Rnd. 19
Rnd. 18
55
5sc
of distance 56 57
7.– Sew the tail sideways in the body, between Rnds. 9 and 16 counting from the bottom. Sew around the tail, lengthwise and wide so that it's secure and
upright (photos 58 - 61).
58
59
Rnd. 16
Rnd. 9
60
61
16
7. The sweet MILO
Well done ! !
You have finished your Milo ... Congrats!
62
65
I'm ready now!

... but are still missing
the little Milos ...
64 ... Let's make them ...
© Tarturumies
63
17
8. Rattle MILO
 The Rattle
The rattle's head will be smaller, so you should make it in the same way as the head of the fox Milo but with the steps that we will
indicate below. You can guide yourself with the photos of the fox Milo head to have an orientation, but remember they will have
different rounds and sc.

Start with color A

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x6 (24)
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x6 (30)
6. *4 sc, 1 inc* x6 (36)
7. *5 sc, 1 inc* x6 (42)
8 - 13. 1 sc in each st (42)

14. < (A) 10sc >, < (C) 3sc in the same sc base, 1 inc, 3sc in the same sc base, 16sc, 3sc in the same sc base, (52)
1 inc, 3sc in the same sc base >, < (A) 10sc >. (photos 1 - 3)
15. < (A) 10sc >, < (C) 32sc >, < (A) 10sc >. (52)
17. < (A) 6sc, 1dec, 2sc >, < (C) 4sc, 1dec, *6sc, 1dec* x2, 6sc >, < (A) 1dec, 6sc, 1dec >. (42)
18. < (A) 5sc, 1dec, 2sc >, < (C) 3sc, 1dec, *5sc, 1dec* x3>, < (A) 5sc, 1dec >. (36)
19. < (A) 4sc, 1dsc, 2sc >, < (C) 2sc, 1dec, *4sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 4sc, 1dec >. (30)
Leave a moment of crocheting, then you will resume the last rounds.
- Place the 9 mm eyes between the Rnds.13 / 14 counting from the top. Take reference sc of color C in Rnd.14 to be able to place them, count each side 12sc.
They should be between the eyes 8sc away, count them in Rnd.13. To make them safer, very carefully you can burn with a lighter the stick of the eye so that it
melts and is well held, this must be done once the washer is put on and with caution. If you don’t want to use safety eyes, can replace it by embroidering the
eyes.
- Embroider the nose on the Rnd.14, between the eyes and with a long strand of color B. Make a V and embroider it completely. Finish the nose embroidering a
vertical line on Rnd.15.
- Embroider the top line of the eye with A color, make two turns, takes the ends of the yarns inside and direct them to the hollow of down, make knots among if
so that they're subject. Continue embroidering the line under the eye with D color, make a turn and also knot in the hole.
Continued on the next page
18
8. Rattle MILO
HEAD continuation colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

- Before continuing the remaining rounds, stuffing and place 1 or 2 rattle boxes (photos 65 - 66). Continue with the rounds and the color changes.
65 66 67
20. < (A) 3sc, 1dec, 2sc >, < (C) 1sc, 1dec, *3sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 3sc, 1dec >. (24)
21. < (A) 2sc, 1dec, 2sc >, < (C) 1dec, *2sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 2sc, 1dec >. (18)
22. < (A) *1sc, 1dec* x2 >, < (C) *1sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 1sc, 1dec >. (12)
23. < (A) *1dec* x2 >, < (C) *1dec* x3 >, < (A) 1dec >. (6)
- Finally, stuff the head and fit the stuffing well with your hands. While stuffing, leave all the long yarn strands left out, so if you must accommodate or pull, you
can easily see them (photo 67).
FO. leaving a long strand of both color A and color C.
EARS INNER EARS x2 color F - worked in continuous round and 2.5 hook.
The ears will be composed of two parts, the outer ears and the inner Round Description Stitches
ears. Of both, two pieces must be made.
1. Magic Ring (6)
OUTER EARS x2 colors A / B - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.
The internal ears will have a triangle shape. Keep in mind, that the off white
Start with color B yarn of the ears is more fine than the off white yarn that you'll use for the rest of
1. Magic Ring (3) the body.
2. *1 inc* x3 (6)
68 69
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x3 (9)
Change to color A
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x3 (12)
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x3 (15)
6 - 7. 1 sc in each st (15)
19
8. Rattle MILO
PIECE TO JOIN THE RING WITH THE HEAD

color A - worked in rows and 3 hook. CHEEKS x2 color G - worked in joined round and 2,5 hook.
Row Description Stitches Round Description Stitches
24ch + 1ch (to climb) (25) 1. Magic Ring (4)
1 - 9. 1 sc in each st (24) FO, leaving a long tail (photo 73)

– Sew the piece around the wooden ring. If you want more firmness with the
head, you can put some glue on the ring, place the piece on the glue and Neck Rattle
sew. This will prevent the piece from sliding down the ring (photos 71 - 72)
The neck will be the same as fox Milo with the difference that it will have 1
less figure, thus completing 4 figures in total. To make this, follow the steps
below and if you wish, you can orient yourself with the photos on page 12.
NECK color C - worked in rows and 3 hook.

Row Description Stitches
The neck is made with a base of ch and sc. On it has a total of 4 figures,
70 71 each of them you'll have to crochet them in rows and separately. To
understand the steps, guide yourself with the table and the diagram.
25 ch + 1 ch (to climb) (26)
Turn the crochet and start with 3ch (will be the 1st
dc), 4dc in the same sc base with the previous
2. (8)
3ch, skip 3sc of base and the next stitch make
72 73 1sc
Turn the crochet again and start with 5ch in the

3. (6)
NECK DIAGRAM - RATTLE MILO < 4 FIGURES > air, 1sc (on the 1st dc of the previous row)
= sl st = ch = sc = hdc = dc
Once again, turn the crochet and start with 1ch,
7hdc (inside the base of ch to the air), 1sl st on
4
the Row 1 (skip a 1sc from the final sc of Row 2)
4. (9)
To start the next figure, don't turn the crochet and
2 3 make the 3ch after making the final sl st of this
1 row ; you'll only turn from here in Rows 3 and 4).
Repeat from Row 2 to Row 4 to complete the other figures (left diagram)
© 2018 - 2020 Tarturumies - www.tarturumies.com
20
8. Rattle MILO
ASSEMBLE RATTLE
Do the assemble with the help of the steps.
1.– Sew the ears to the head. First, sew the inner ear inside the outer ear, then place it on the head between Rnds. 3 and 8 counting from the top and guide
yourself with the edge of color C. Sew with the colored yarn A to the head all around, when you get to the inner ear, take the edge of the outer ear to sew it.
2.– Sew the cheeks between Rnds.14 and 15 counting from the top and one on each side of the eyes.
3.– Sew the neck at the base of the head leaving one of the figures forward.
4.– Sew the head centered on the piece sewn to the ring. Take enough surface of the base of the head and neck to sew, so that it is better held.
5.– Your rattle is ready (photo 74).
74
© Tarturumies
21
9. Baby Blanket MILO
 The Baby Blanket

The head of the baby blanket will be somewhat larger than the rattle and somewhat smaller than the fox Milo, so you should
make it in the same way but with the steps that we will indicate below. You can guide yourself with the photos of fox Milo
head to have an orientation, but remember that they will have different rounds and sc.

Start with color A

1. Magic Ring (6)
2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4. *2 sc, 1 inc* x6 (24)
5. *3 sc, 1 inc* x6 (30)
6. *4 sc, 1 inc* x6 (36)
7. *5 sc, 1 inc* x6 (42)
8. *6 sc, 1 inc* x6 (48)
9 - 16. 1 sc in each st (48)

17. < (A) 12sc >, < (C) 3sc in the same sc base, 1 inc, 3sc in the same sc base, 18sc, 3sc in the same sc base, 1 inc, 3sc in the same (58)
sc base >, < (A) 12sc >.
18. < (A) 12sc >, < (C) 34sc >, < (A) 12sc >. (58)
20. < (A) 7sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 4sc, 1dec, *7sc, 1dec* x2, 6sc >, < (A) 1sc, 1dec, 7sc, 1dec >. (48)
21. < (A) 6sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 3sc, 1dec, *6sc, 1dec* x2, 6sc >, < (A) 1dec, 6sc, 1dec >. (42)
22. < (A) 5sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 2sc, 1dec, *5sc, 1dec* x3>, < (A) 5sc, 1dec >. (36)
Leave a moment of crocheting, then you will resume the last rounds.
- Place the 10 mm eyes between the Rnds.16 / 17 counting from the top. Take reference sc of color C in Rnd.17 to be able to place them, count each side 12sc.
They should be between the eyes 10sc away, count them in Rnd.16. To make them safer, very carefully you can burn with a lighter the stick of the eye so that it
melts and is well held, this must be done once the washer is put on and with caution. If you don’t want to use safety eyes, can replace it by embroidering the
eyes.
- Embroider the nose on the Rnd.17, between the eyes and with a long strand of color B. Make a V and embroider it completely. Finish the nose embroidering a
vertical line on Rnd.18.
- Embroider the top line of the eye with A color, make two turns, takes the ends of the yarns inside and direct them to the hollow of down, make knots among if
so that they're subject. Continue embroidering the line under the eye with D color, make a turn and also knot in the hole.
Start stuffing and continue with the remaining rounds
23. < (A) 4sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 1sc, 1dec, *4sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 4sc, 1dec >. (30)
Continued on the next page
22
HEAD continuation colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

24. < (A) 3sc, 1dec, 3sc >, < (C) 1dec, *3sc, 1dec* x3 >, < (A) 3sc, 1dec >. (24)
27. < (A) *1dec* x2 >, < (C) *1dec* x3 >, < (A) 1dec>. (6)
Finally, stuff the head and fit the stuffing well with your hands. While stuffing, leave all the long yarn strands left out, so if you must accommodate or pull, you
can easily see them.
FO. leaving a long strand of both color A and color C.
EARS / CHEEKS / NECK / SPHERES

• The ears and cheeks will be the same as rattle, make them with the steps on pages 19 and 20.
• The neck will be the same as fox Milo, with a total of 5 figures, make it with the steps on pages 11 and 12.
• Make 2 spheres and then sew on the ends of the blanket, make them with the steps in the table below.
SPHERES x2 color B - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

1. Magic Ring (6)

2. *1 inc* x6 (12)
3. *1 sc, 1 inc* x6 (18)
4 - 7. 1 sc in each st (18)
8. *1 sc, 1 dec* x6 (12)
9. *1 dec* x6 (6)
Stuff the spheres as you crochet. FO, leaving a long tail (photo 75)
75
23
BLANKET
Make the blanket with the help of the steps and diagram.
colors A / B / C / D / E - worked in joined round and 3 hook.

Start with color A
Start with a magic ring composed of: 3ch (will be the 1st dc), 2dc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch, 1sl st (the last sl st will always
1. (23)
be to close the round and be able to climb to the next)
2. 3ch (will be the 1st dc), 2dc, 1inc in dc, 2ch, *1inc in dc, 3dc, 1inc in dc, 2ch* x3, 1inc in dc, 1sl st (39)
3. 3ch (will be the 1st dc), 4dc, 1inc in dc, 2ch, *1inc in dc, 7dc, 1inc in dc, 2ch* x3, 1inc in dc, 2dc, 1sl st (55)
Change to color D
7. 1ch (only to climb), 14sc, 2ch, *25sc, 2ch* x3, 11sc, 1sl st (110)
Change to color C
Change to color E
Change to color B
Change to color A
Change to color D
Change to color C
Change to color E
Change to color B
FO.
24
DIAGRAM BLANKET MILO
= sl st = ch = sc = dc
© 2020 Tarturumies - www.tarturumies.com
25
ASSEMBLE BABY BLANKET

Do the assemble with the help of the steps.
1.– Sew the ears to the head. First, sew the inner ear inside the outer ear, then place it on the head between Rnds. 4 and 9 counting from the top and guide
yourself with the edge of color C. Sew with the colored yarn A to the head all around, when you get to the inner ear, take the edge of the outer ear to sew it.
2.– Sew the cheeks between Rnds.17 and 18 counting from the top and one on each side of the eyes.
3.– Sew the neck at the base of the head leaving one of the figures forward.
4.– Sew (with a strand of color A) the head over the center of the blanket, put it to look towards one of the tips.
5.– Put the head facing you and sew the spheres at the ends of the blanket that are on the right and left sides, they will simulate little legs.
6.– Your baby blanket is ready (photo 76).
76
26
10. Baby Kit Fox MILO finished
Great ! !
You have successfully completed Baby Kit Fox Milo
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Congratulations !!! http://www.tarturumies.com

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If you liked the Tarturumies experience, https://www.pinterest.es/tarturumies
we invite you to show us your version,
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acquired our pattern and join us https://www.instagram.com/tarturumies
in our social networks … We'll wait for you! https://www.etsy.com/es/shop/Tarturumies
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11. USE OF OUR PATTERNS
USING: Our patterns are registered with all rights reserved and they are only for personal use. You can use this pattern to
make this tender amigurumi for yourself, your family and your friends. If you share your versions in your social networks, we
would appreciate you mentioning us as authors of the design, that gesture would help more people to know us and enjoy with
us.
SELLING: You are allowed to sell the amigurumis that you make with this pattern on a small scale, but please give us the cre-
dit of the design and provide a link to our website www.tarturumies.com. Please mention us in your finalish work.
SHARING: You're allowed to share the images of our amigurumis in your social networks or website (without the pattern) but
you must name us as the author of the design and must be accompanied by the link on our website. If you share, we will ap-
preciate it, if you doing so helps us to continue growing, creating and enjoying the beautiful art of amigurumis.
NO: This pattern or parts of it can´t: distribute it, resell it, translate it into any language, alter it, reproduce it, publish it, share it
or post it (free or for sale) on the internet or in any other type of medium.
REMEMBER: With the purchase of our patterns you collaborate so that we can continue creating new designs. We appreciate
your collaboration so that this can continue to be possible.
Tarturumies
January 2020
Thank you so much

for being respectful
and for your
understanding!
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Juegos de Zorro Sonaja y Mas

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Baby Kit Fox Milo

FOX MILO / RATTLE / BABY BLANKET

 approx. = Approximately  mm = millimeter(s)

HILATURAS LM - Cotton Nature 3.5

• (A) Orange - colour 4114 165 gr + or - • (D) White - colour 50 10 gr + or -

• (B) Brown - colour 4102 57 gr + or - • (E) Light Brown - colour 4130 7 gr + or -

DROPS Love You # 7

 2,5mm Hook (Clover Amour - UK 12)

 Sewing Pins (to help when assembling)

4. MEASUREMENTS 5. DIFFICULTY LEVEL

Before starting, some TIPS ...

Discover our world in: www.tarturumies.com

… And we're going to

HEAD colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

Start with color A

From here, you'll begin to combine the colors (A) - (C).

12sc of distance between the eyes

Start with color B

FO, leaving a long tail (photo 15)

16 INNER EARS x2 color E - worked in continuous round and 2,5 hook.

Round Description Stitches

1. Magic Ring (6)

FO, leaving a long tail (photo 16)

BODY color A - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

1. Magic Ring (6)

CHEEKS x2 color F - worked in joined round and 2,5 hook.

1. Magic Ring (6)

FO, leaving a long tail (photo 18)

Start with color B

Start with color B

TAIL colors A / B / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

Start with color C

NECK color C - worked in rows and 3 hook.

31 ch + 1 ch (to climb - photo 23) (32)

1. 1 sc in each st (photo 24) (31)

DIAGRAM NECK FOX MILO < 5 FIGURES >

© 2018 - 2020 Tarturumies - www.tarturumies.com

Row 2 = 3ch (will be the 1st

31 ch+ 1 ch (to climb) Row 1 = 1sc in each st

(skip the 3sc of base) Row 3 = 5ch in the air

Row 4 = 1sl st on the Row 1 (skip a 1sc from the

The 5 complete figures

CONTINUATION ASSEMBLE FOX

CONTINUATION ASSEMBLE FOX

CONTINUATION ASSEMBLE FOX

I'm ready now!

64 ... Let's make them ...

HEAD colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

Start with color A

From here, you'll begin to combine the colors (A) - (C).

Continued on the next page

HEAD continuation colors A / C - worked in continuous round and 3 hook.

FO, leaving a long tail (photo 68)

PIECE TO JOIN THE RING WITH THE HEAD

24ch + 1ch (to climb) (25) 1. Magic Ring (4)

1 - 9. 1 sc in each st (24) FO, leaving a long tail (photo 73)

FO, leaving a long tail (photo 70)

NECK color C - worked in rows and 3 hook.

25 ch + 1 ch (to climb) (26)