NATIONAL TEXTILE UNIVERSITY

Name: Ali Hasan

Reg# 20-NTU-MSTT-6072

Semester: 01

TT-5063

Advance Textile Processing

Fall 2020
 Lab 01

Dyeing Jute yarn with Basic dye.

Objects:

The main object of this process is to dye yarn.

• To dye jute yarn.

• To know about Basic dyestuff.
• To know how it work.
• To have an idea of dyeing curve on jute yarn.
• To know about the recipe.

Introduction:

It is suitable for acrylic fibers (other fibers by mordanting). It reacts with acetic groups, or mordants a
chemical which can react or complex with a chromophore to form an insoluble colour in the fibre. It
has good fastness properties on acrylic fibres.

Recipe:

Dyestuff = 1% owf.

Acetic acid = 1 gm/l

Sodium Acetate =2gm/l

Temperature = 90° c-95ºc

Time = 45 min

M :L = 1: 20

Calculation: –

Sample weight = 5 gm

Here we shall prepare stock sol

Acetic acid = (1×100)/(1000×1%) =10cc

Sodium Acetate=(2×100)/ (1000×1%) =20cc

Additional water require =100- (10+20+5) = 65 cc

Procedure : –

First required amount of dyestuff ,acetic acid agent is mixed in a closed vessel. Then additional water
& Sodium Acetate are added to this mixture. Finally sample is taken in this soln and closed the open
end of the vessel. Then vessel is kept on the rotadryer m/c and heated 90° c for 1 hour. Then the vessel
is open and the sample is drawn out and washed with water.

Result:

It provides ultimate shade range with high brightness. It provides poor levelling properties. Light
fastness is poor but wet fastness is good.
Precaution: –

• The sample should be kept uniformly in the mixture. Otherwise non-uniform dyeing will do.
• Amount of chemical and water must be accurate.
• Chemical must mix with water very well.

Conclusion: –

Dyeing is an important experiment in textile technology. Jute is the mostly used fibre from old ages
to now. Basic dyes will provide good brightness, high tinctorial but poor lightness and shape stability.
 Lab 02

Dyeing of nylon yarn with acid dyes

Objective: –

The main object of this process is to iron the fabric.

• To dye nylon yarn.

• To know about acid dyestuff.
• To know how it work.
• To have an idea of dyeing curve on Nylon yarn.
• To know about the recipe.

Introduction:

Acid dyes are sodium salts of sulphonic acid but there are a few containing Carboxyl groups. The acid
dyes have a direct affinity towards protein fibers and polyamide fibers. Applicable for wool , silk, nylon.
Applied from an acidic dye bath. The fastness properties of this dye-stuff depends on the fiber type.

Apparatus Required:

• Beakers.
• Glass Rod.
• Pipette.
• Measuring Cylinder.
• Digital Balance.
• Tri-pod Stand.
• gas burner.
• Thermometer.'
• Pot.
• pH Meter

Recipe:

Acid dye — 2%

Acetic acid – 1 gm/L

Levelling agent — 1 gm/L

pH = 4.5-5.5

Temp × Time = 90ºc × 30 min

M:L = 1:20.

Calculation:

Sample weight = 5 gm

Total liquor = 5×20= 100cc

Dyestuff require =( Sample wt. x % of the dye ) / % of the stock solution = (2%× 5)/1% = 10cc

Required Acetic acid = (1 × 100)/(1000×1%) = 10cc

Required levelling agent = (1 × 100)/(1000×1%) = 10cc

Additional water require = 100- (10+10+10) = 70 cc

Procedure:

• First required amount of water and levelling agent is mixed in a closed vessel.
• Then added dye to this mixture.
• Then added Acetic acid.
• Finally, sample is taken in this solution and closed the open end of the vessel.
• Then vessel is kept on the rotadryer m/c and heated 90° c for 30min.
• Then the vessel is open and the sample is drawn out.
• Then the sample is drawn out and washed with water.

Function of Chemicals:

Wetting Agent:

Wetting agent is substances that reduce the surface tension of water to allow it to spread drops onto
a surface, increasing the spreading abilities of a liquid. Lowering the surface tension lowers the energy
required to spread drops onto a film.

Acid Dye:

The main substance to colour the sample.

Acetic Acid:

Acetic acid used for maintain pH 4.5-5.5. Because the Acid dye only works in acidic medium.

Result:

The Nylon fabric turn orange color after dyed by Acid Dye..

Sample:
Precaution:

• The sample should be kept uniformly in the mixture. Otherwise, non-uniform dyeing will do.
• Amount of chemical and water must be accurate.
• Chemical must mix with water very well.

Conclusion:

Dyeing is an important experiment in textile technology. Nylon is the mostly used fibre from old ages
to now. Acid dye for nylon is a good choice. By controlling pH, heat, retarding agent, uniform dyeing
can be achieved by acid dye for nylon. Acid dyes have poor wash fastness but light fastness is quite
good.

Discussion:

A number of chemical treatments are available for improving the wet fastness properties of dyes on
textile fibers. These treatment methods may involve increasing the molecular weight of the dye so
that it is rendered less soluble and thereby improving the wet fastness. Alternatively, the after-
treatment agent may form a layer on the fabric which prevents diffusion of the dye out of the fabric
on washing. The nature of the after treatment varies with the dyes used for dyeing and the nature of
the substrate. The interaction of the after-treatment agent with the dye/substrate may be a chemical
reaction or by mere ion-ion interactions.
 Lab 03

Dyeing off cotton fabric with sulphur dye.

Objective:

• To learn about dyeing process of cotton fabric by sulphur dye.

• To dye cotton fabric by sulphur dye.

Introduction:

Sulphur dyes are complex heterocyclic molecules or mixtures formed by melting or boiling organic
compounds containing amino or nitro groups with Na-polysulphide and Sulphur. Sulphur dyes are so
called as they all contain Sulphur linkage within their molecules. Sulphur dyes are highly coloured,
water insoluble compounds and have to be converted in to water soluble substantive forms
(lucoforms) before application to the textile materials. This conversion is carried out by a treatment
with a reducing agent like dilute aqueous Na2S. Since this lucoform of Sulphur dye is substantive to
cellulosic materials. They are absorbed on the fibre surface. Then they are reconverted original water
insoluble form of dye by oxidation. This oxidation is carried out by “airing” (exposure to air) or by using
an oxidizing agent like Na-dichromate (Na2Cr2O7). The reducing agents converts the “S” in dye in to
–SH group and the Sulphur linkages. Then inside the material the tholos containing –SH groups are
oxidized & thus reconverted to original form of dye.

Nature of sample:

• Pre-treated 100% cotton knit fabric.

Apparatus required:

• Beakers
• Glass Rod.
• Pipette.
• Measuring Cylinder.
• Digital Balance.
• Tri-pod stand.
• Gas Burner.
• Thermometer.
• Pot.

Process sequence:

• collection of pre-treated sample

• set water level
• add dye solution
• add Na2S solution
• add wetting agent solution
• add levelling agent solution
• add glauber salt solution
• add soda ash
• add fabric sample
• raise the temperature to 55deg C
• run time for 30 minute
 • bath drop at 70deg C
• rinsing
• dry

Calculation:

Total Liquor = Fabric weight X L [M:L = 01:30]

= 5 X 30

= 150mL

Dye = (Fabric weight X x%) / stock solution%

= (5X4%) / 1%

=20mL

Na2S = = (Total liquor X 'x'g/L) / (stock solution% X 1000)

= (150 X 10) / 10% X 1000

= 15ml

Wetting Agent = (Total liquor X 'x'g/L) / (stock solution% X 1000)

= (150 X 1) / 1% X 1000

= 15ml

Levelling Agent = (Total liquor X 'x'g/L) / (stock solution% X 1000)

= (150 X 1) / 1% X 1000

= 15ml

Glauber Salt = (Total liquor X 'x'g/L) / (stock solution% X 1000)

= (150 X 1) / 1% X 1000

= 15mL

Soda Ash = (Total liquor X 'x'g/L) / (stock solution% X 1000)

= (150 X 5) /3% X 1000

= 25ml

Initial Water = total liquor - (chemical 1 + chemical 2 + chemical 3 ...)

= 150- (20+15+15+15+15+25) mL

= 150 -105 mL

= 45mL
Conclusion:

Sulphur dyes have no affinity for textile cellulose fibres. Sulphur dyes are insoluble in water. These
dyes are converted to leuco form before dyeing with the help of dilute aqueous (na2s). This leuco form
is used for dyeing of cellulose materials. Sulphur dyes are produced black and brown shade and cannot
produce other shades such as red , yellow and orange.

Discussion:

Defects of Sulphur Dyeing:

They are mainly two defects which are common in Sulphur dyes which dyeing with textile materials:-

• Bronziness or Dullness of shades

• Sulphur Black tendering

Sulphur dyes are very popular in producing the black shades.

Causes for the Popularity of Producing Black Shades with Sulphur Dyes:

• Low cost
• Fair to good light fastness
• High Wash fastness
• Easy to apply
• Low energy required
• Chemical resistance is moderate to good.
• Wide range of shades especially on heavy, durable shades on apparel fabric.
 Lab 04

Dyeing Of Cotton Fabric with Pigments In A Padding Mangle

Introduction:

The Padding Mangle is perhaps the most familiar & most universal of all Textile dyeing and finishing
machinery. Basically it appears to be quite a simple machine. performing its task of removing the
excess liquid from the fabric in a simple way. But behind this apparent simplicity, there is such a tangle
of variable that their collective quantitative assessment becomes difficult. The viscosity of the liquid
is also important. The effect of viscosity is involved in the compressional behaviour of the fabric-liquid
system. Simple padding mangle consists of two squeezing bowls (rolls)the upper one of iron and
covered with rubber& the lower one of brass. The pressure on the bowls is obtained by compound
levers and weights. They are fixed on textile materials with the help of a binding agent in form of a
thin invisible coating.

The reaction involved is as below:-

Binder – CH2 – OR + HO – textile ⇔ Binder – O – textile + HOR ; where, R is H or CH.

Machine required:

• Padding Mangle;

Specification:

• Squeezing pressure: 0-54 kg

• Speed scale: 0-75 m/min
• Electric balance,
• Drying machine.
• Utilities required:
• Water
• Electricity – to power the balance and dryer

Process sequence:

Fabric Preparation

⇓
Padding the fabric in pigment dispersion in a padder.

⇓
Drying (90-100°C)

⇓
Steamed (For cross linking between fabric &film)(Cotton 160C°,at PH -5 for 3min )
Padding Recipe:

Pigments 4 G/L
Thickener(natural) 7% 100g/L
Binder 20 g/lit
Levelling agent 1 g/lit
Acetic acid (pH=5) 1-2 g/lit
Temperature Room temperature
Drying:

The dyed fabric is dried at 80-100ºC temperature for 5 minutes.

Steaming:

Curing is done for the fixation of pigments alone with binders. It is done usually at 160°C temperature.

Result:

The pigment dyed fabric has been dried and cured. The dyeing is found excellent also the effect
produced is very stunning.

Discussion:

The dyeing is accomplished with good care. The impurities also found in the chemical used. For the
reason of old pigment, we have to suffer much. Anyhow we got required dyed sample by doing several
times. Above all the dyed sample found satisfactory.
 Lab 05

Print a design on cotton fabric using screen printing

Objective:

To print the given cotton material using Screen Printing method with the required portion of fabrics.

Introduction:

Screen printing is a printing technique where a mesh is used to transfer ink onto a substrate, except
in areas made impermeable to the ink by a blocking stencil.

Recipe:

fabric

Dyes = 4gm

Urea = 10gm

Thickener = 50gD

Resist salt=1gm

Soda ash=6gm

Additional water = as required.

Preparation of thickener:

• 16 gm of starch and 200cc water are taken in bowl

• Heat is applied and solution is stirred continuously until a thick viscose solution is obtained.3.
• By continuous stirring and boiling a specific viscosity is obtained.4.
• The heat application is stopped otherwise viscosity falls down. So temperature is maintained
strictly.

Preparation of printing paste:

• At first we take required amount of dyestuffs in a bath.

• Then little amount of water is added into the bath for mixing these dyes. And start stirring for
mixing the three types of dye.
• Then required amount of urea is added into the dye bath.
• After then required amount of thickener is added.
• Then continuous stirring is done for few minutes for mixing all the ingredients of print paste.
• After mixing finally required amount of alkali is added to the dye bath and mix them with the
help of stirring.

Printing process:

Screen-printing method:

• The fabric is placed on the printing table of flat screen-printing machine. The table is made of
soft by laying on it.
• Then the screen is placed on the sample fabric.
• The printing paste is taken on the screen perforation.
• Thus we can find the printed fabric with a smooth wooden strike the paste is spread over the
screen with slight pressure.
• So that the dye particles can penetrate through the screen perforation.
• Thus we get printed fabric.

After treatment:

The printed fabric is steamed for 5-10 minutes in a cottages steamer and washed with cold-water
for removing unfixed dye and exhausted thickener and then dried.

Result:

The given cotton sample material was printed by using Screen Printing method with the required
portion of fabrics.