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Knitwear Technology (Fully fashion)

Knitting: Knitting is a inter locking / inter looping / inter matching of loops which form a
structure is called Knitting.

Weaving: weaving is a interlacement of two sets of yarn at right angles which form a
structure is called weaving.

Loop: banding form of yarn is called loop.

Apparel

Woven Knitwear

Cut & sew Fully fashion

Tubular course gauge
Light heavy
Fine gauge sweater

Classification of knitted structure:

Knitted structure

Weft knitted structure Warp knitted structure

Circular knitting Flat bed knitting Tricot Raschel

Small Large
dia m/c dia m/c Hand driven Power driven
- Drive manually - Driven in power End products:
End product: - limited design - unlimited/fancy
Socks T-shirt can produce design can produce - Multi non apparel seam
polo shirt - low volume - High volume can produce.
production production - Mosquito net.
-Fabric for clothing - Integrated gmts - Integrated garments - Mesh fabric.
- Single Jersey not possible possible - Power net.
- Rib knitted structure - Fish net
- Double jersey End products: sweater, fully fashioned - Laces etc.
- Lacoste / pique knitwear, cardigan, poll over etc

Describe the various structures:

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Warp knitted structure: lengthwise (warp wise) direction of loops is called warp knitted
structure.

Mesh fabric: supporting fabric, look like a mosquito net use in short garments.

Power net: use in Hajack lamp.

Weft knitted structure: widthwise (weft wise) direction of loops is called weft knitted
structure.

Wales: vertical columns of loop are called Wales

Course: horizontal raw of loop is called course.

Types of knitting m/c:.

Circular knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in circular way that’s why it is called
circular knitting m/c. It has two needle beds.
One is cylinder (vertical needles)
Another is dial (horizontal needles)

Dia: maximum circle distance in a circle is called dia. Two types of dia
small dia (for socks)
large dia (cutting fabric – lacoste/pique)

Gauge: It means thickness. no. of gauge

Fine gauge : T-shirt (24g, 40g)
Course gauge: sweater (3g, 5g)

Higher the gauge finer the knit, lower the gauge courser the knit.

Flat bed Knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in flat way that’s why it is called flat bed
knitting m/c. It has two needle beds.
-Technical front (T.F)
- Technical back ( T.B)
It is also called Jacquard m/c.

Integrated garments: without any stitch or linking in garments.

without any join, seamless garments.
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Shem seiki: Shem seiki is first producer of whole garments in Japan. Company name is
also known as brand.
-Ladies shirt is known as ladies blows.
- Heavy knitwear means sweater.

Why it is called fully fashion?

Fully fashion: Fully fashion is a method / technique of shaping a knitted structure by

increasing or decreasing the number of needles or wales.
In the fully fashion there is no fabric formats. Just it is made by increasing or decreasing
the shape of end product, increasing or decreasing of needles.

Advantages of fully fashion:

- we can produce zero(less) wastage garments.

- Less manpower.
- we can produce quality garments/sealed garments.

Disadvantage:

Textile fiber: anything that can be garments/originated from fiber.

In narrow sense: Textile means – fiber to fabric production. ie fiber yarn fabric

In greater sense: fiber clothing

Fibers are chemical/natural structure that can be spun into yarn.

Basic requirements for fibers:

Based on sourcing:

Textile fiber

Natural Chemical made

Animal (wool)
Plant/vegetable (cotton) Acrylic

Fiber: any types of substance but the length and thickness ratio is very high.
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Thickness and length ratio 1:800, 1:1000 etc

Major properties of fiber:

1. Mechanical properties:
- Abrasion resistance
- Flexibility
- Stiffness.
2. Absorption properties: this is a measure of quality of water vapors, liquid water
etc.
ie water absorption.
Water/oil release.
3. Thermal properties: The behavior of textile in the presence of heat or when
exposed to a flame.
- Heat resistance capacity.
- Soften and melting.

Fiber identification test:

1. Burning test:

Wool Acrylic Cotton

Flammability Not flammable highly flammable flammable

Burning smell hair burning smell petrol burning smell paper burning smell

2. Chemical test: (-) alkalies (+) alkalies (+) alkalies

(+) acids (+) acids (-) acids
poor resistance in alkalis
good resistance in acids

3. Microscopic test:
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Based on length:

Fiber

Staple Filament

Acrylic
Short Long (2000 mtr)
Cotton Wool
(1.27 – 6.34 cm) (3.8 cm)

Textile yarn:

Yarn: twisted form of fibers is called yarn.

ASTM: American society of textile materials.

ASTM definition of yarn: A generic term for a continuous strength of textile fibre is
called yarn.

Classification of textile yarn:

Textile yarn

Span Filament

Simple complex/ fancy/ vovelty

Mono Multi
Single Plied

Cords cables Flat Twisted

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Visual properties:
-Mono
- Multi
- Staple
- Two ply yarn
- Multi ply yarn
- Cord
- Cable

Span yarn: Twisting together of staple fiber.

Single yarn: consists of just one stand of fibre.

Plied yarn: are art formed by twisting together two or more single.

Cords: are made by plying / twisting together by plied yarn.

Cables: are produced by plying cords.

Complex/ fancy: This has special effect on.

Slub yarn: contains partially bulky / fluffy.

Loop yarn: this yarn requires a base yarn (core yarn) around which fancy or effect yarn
is warped.

Wool yarn:
Sheep (fleece of sheep)

Lower part upper part

Various levels:
Pure wool: 100% wool
Virgin wool: raw wool
Blended wool: 70% wool & 30% acrylic

Basic properties of wool:

- It is heavy due to bulky fiber

- Dull in appearance
- Strength is very poor
- Poor resistance in sunlight and heat.
- Cool and low steam use
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- Insects from poor resistance

- React in alkalis
- Shrinkage.

End use: Fully fashion, shut.

Acrylic: Acrylic is known as acrylonitrile which we get from acetylene of ethylene.

Acrylic is also known as cheaper substitute of wool.

Basic properties of Acrylic:

- Light shining
- Good strength
- Comparatively low worm
- Not react in sunlight.
- First look bright but second it creates boblin.
- Especially in heavy weight.

Cotton:

10 g, 12 g ------ Buyer prefer

Cotton yarn -------summer or spring
-------Fashion & Requirements

Basic properties of cotton:

- Smooth and fine

- Cool feeling
- Strength medium to high
- Insect don’t like.

Disadvantages:
- Low resistance

End use: Knit, woven, fully fashion, inner and outer garments.
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Yarn use in fully fashion:

Basic yarn Fancy Farm

-100% cotton -chenille----Not wash
-Mixed cotton - Cashmere
-100% wool -Angorn
-Blended wool - loop Yarn / Popcorn
-100% acrylic - Tape yarn
-Acrylic mélange - Nep yarn.
- Mohasre

Chenille: cotton Chenille Acrylic chenille

- lurcx chenille ---
- Feather chenille -----
- Rainbow chenille----
- Space dyed -------- Fade

Cashmere kvj 100% acrylic

Rabit ----------- Angorn ------
Neps -------- Boblin

Woven garments: Fully Faison – Expensive but profitable also

Fabric

Cutting

Sewing --- washing

Pressing

Finishing
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Production flowchart of fully fashion knit wear :

yarn receive from textile

Yarn inspection (Random basis)

Winding

Yarn cone distribution to the knitting operator

Knitting section

Knitting inspection
- In process &
- End process.
Linking section

Linking inspection
-In process &
-End process
Linking continue / trimming section

Mending

Washing hydro extracting and drying

Processing

Finishing

1. labeling
- Name 1
- Size -2
- Care 2etc
2. Button hole Button Cutting
3. Hang tog pricing attaching
4. Folding
5. primary packing
6. Secondary packing
7. Quality audit by quality control team
8. Final packing
9. final inspection done by buyer responsibly by A Q L method
10. Ready for export

Hank
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Cone Cotton
Inspection -- Color and weight
Lab deep Color requirement depend on buyer

4 panels
5 panels -----Cardigan.

Weight
Production Merchandising
1. Yarn quantity
a. Material quantity
b. Type of gage

Material: - 1. Strong yarn /Good strength

2. Less strength. (Chenille)
Gage: Normal gage –3g, 5g, 7g – (16,1bs + 4%)
Fine gage --- 10g, 12g ---- (16,1b + (4+1) %) (Shadel +1%)

1. Why we weight the yarn?

- If not weight the yarn then worker miss use the yarn. In distribution room
blog/protection because any worker could not entered the distribution room.

Fully fashion m/c

- Less manpower
- Quantity
-Design low

Knitting process is depend on design chart –

Heart of the sweater production operator could not idea about actual design
chart .So they could not say how to design it. They learn if with experience not scientific
way.

7 gage: - 7 needles exist in per inch.

Fabric fault in fully fashion: -
1. Hole
2. Laddering
3. Ply mistake --- yarn broken.
4.
Why we women worker in mending section?

Here is poor salary and women are expert in mending and they have biological support.
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Tremble drying m/c.

Boiler ----- Steam iron.

Different types of stitches / Design used in fully fashion Basic category: -
1. Jersey stitch Fancy category
2. Rib stitch -- shaker / Half cardigan stitch.
3. Double jersey --- Full cardigan stitch
Cables:- --Milano stitch
1. Normal -- Tuck stitch
2. Fancy --printal stitch
3. Butterfly -- Zigzag stitch
-- Drop knit stitch .
Diamond:-
1. Normal
2. Fancy

Stitch – An intermeshed loop.

Describes different types of stitches / Design ------

Jersey / Single jersey/single knit / plain knit / basic knit etc.
This is very basic knitting construction .It’s a single beded structure .The needle diagram
of jersey is ------------
The stitch diagram is ------
It can produce both in flat bed 4 circular bed m/c-

Properties of Jersey stitch:-

Appearance: - In single Jersey both side are different in appearance.

Out look:-
T/M: V Shape stitch /jersey stitch.
T/B: Semi circle stitch /Are stitch.

- Edge curling : it curls T/B to t/B

T/B to T/B in width wise
Length wise wilts wise
Strength: - Tightness and looseness activity.
Yarn tension – T/F to T/B G curl
-Unbalanced fabric because back side no needle.
Carling – so worker take time to linking and producing extra time.

How to reduce the curly:-

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1. After knitting and before sewing /linking by using parching. (Light knit circular knit
swach)
2. Use folder /attachment
3. Use standard m/c

Dimensional stability: - Because of single jersey dimensional stability in poor.

S.J garments do not washable.

How to reduce the dimensional stability?

1. To increase loop density
2. Apply resin finish chemical
resin use properties shaf t
- Soft ness
- Estability / elasticity.

Elasticity:-Length and width wise elasticity is same because course and wales wise loop
length almost same.
Unraveled: we can unroalled this structure in both side.

How ladering defect create –

1. Needle head broken.
2. Loose tension.
3. Knot in the yarn.

Rib knitted structure:- The word rib derives from animal rib. This is a double beded
structure. The needles heads are not facing directly each other. There are various types
of rib knitted structure.
But very common structure is 1x1 & 2x2 rib; above3x3, 4x4 etc are known as fancy rib.
But 6x6 rib is known as specially Derby rib.
The needle diagram of 1x1 ribs and stitches diagram of 1x1
The needle bed of 2x2 and stitch is can produce both flat bed and circular
bed knitting m/c.

Appearance: - Same in appearance.

-semi circle loop can be observed between in v shape.
Edge curling: Rib structure does not curl at the edge. Its balanced structure.
Dimensional stability:-Dimensional stability is good.
Elasticity:-width wise direction is high than that of length wise.

Why width wise elasticity high?

-Semi circle width is high, so width wise elasticity high. Unraveled from close it only.
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Density: - Density is high in temperature in single jersey.

End use : - waist band, collar, cuff or total sweater. we can use by rib fabric.
High rib – under garments, because elasticity and comfort ability.

Similarities between the single jersey and rib Structure.

1. we can produce the Single Jersey and Rib fabric in similar flat bed and circular bed
knitting m/c.
2. Both types fabrics are knitted structure.
3. Both fabrics are mend able.
4. created by loop formation.

Double jersey / Interlock/ Double faced fabric:

If the plain stitches are one bedded, the other fabric structure is known as double jersey /
interlock.
It’s double bedded fabric, can produce both in flat bed & circular bed knitting m/c. The
needle diagram of double jersey is ------and the stitch diagram is ------

It is called tight knitted. Theoretically needle heads are kept face to face but practically
needle heads are not face to face. It stay little bit in angle.

Properties and appearance.

1. Both side similar.
2. Curl: Double jersey does not curl because it very tight knitted fabric.
3. Dimensional stability good..
4. Unraveled : Same as rib.
5. Elasticity : Poor
6. Defecting: It laddering occurs. We can’t mending like rib & jersey.
7. Density : Density high because both side needles are active.
Thickness & elasticity consider while identifying double jersey.
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End use:
 Sweater
 Gents & ladies wear
 Light knit.
 Sports wear ( suet absorbency high, dimensional stability high )
 Ladies shirt.

Similarities between D/j and rib :

 Basic knit
 Both can made in flat bed circular bed m/c.
 Both fabrics both side appearance same
 Does not use.
 Dimensional stability good.
 Unraveled: Both are same.

Difference between D/j & Rib

1. Needle diagram –
2. Stitch diagram -
3. elasticity - very poor high (width wind)
4. density High Comparatively low
5. Weight high low
6. Mending Not mend able mend able
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Notation for knitted structure :

The symbol which represent different types of loops are called notations. There are two
types of symbols. We use to identify different structure like
 Indicate technical face (v) loop
 Indicate technical back loop.
So for single jersey -

Impotency :
1. Language variation avoided
2. Different name confliction avoidance.
3. Loop drawing is difficult and time consuming to avoid this problem

Process break down (operation break down) of a fully fashion knitwear:

Step by skip (body panel)

 Select & setting needles for bottom rib .

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By needle selection for sleeve panel:

Prepare rib height

By going coursers

Loop transfer from for saddle for raglan for straight

Back needle bed to sleeve Sleeve Sleeve
Front needle bed
For 1 Step by step ( sleeve panel
If the body is in search
 Select and setting for cuff rib by needle
selector.
Prepare rib height by giving courses.
For jersey setting by loop transfer comb
Linking (R/side)
Knit up to am hole start point
Right shoulder joining left shoulder joining
Attach color rib
Link skive to body panel
Side seam linking
Pre pare arm hole by decreasing or End of operation
Decreasing or increasing both processes.
Also prepare back drip and reached up to
Neckline shoulder line.
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Identification of different types of fancy stitches/design

1. Shaker/Half cardigan stitch:
a. Normal construction 1X1 rib, double bedded structure. T/F & T/B
b. T/F-looks bulky/Fluffy V loop
c. T/B-looks tight V loop as chain stitch
2. Full cardigan stitch :
Normal construction 1X1 double bedded both side same. Both side raised V shape
like, but zigzag.
3. Milano stitch:
Normal construction double jersey ie, full needles from both side needle bed.
T/F & T/B not same.
 T/F – looks joint V stitch like after stitch
 T/B looks chain or tight V shape.

4. Drop knit:
Could be any construction, like single jersey, rib, double jersey setting . Like 5X1, 4X2,
odd setting etc.
5. Zigzag :
Could be in any construction like single jersey, Double jersey. Vertical in hand driven.
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Tuck stitch :
Normal construction 1X1. could be single tuck or double tuck appearance. Looks like
single side honey comb both side honey comb.

Cables:
There are three types of cables –
Normal Fancy Butterfly

 Cables normally jersey.

Diamond:
Normal Fancy

Double half diamond

Needle

Pointed stitch :
Could be any construction.
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Knit wear ( Fully fashion ) stitch analysis –

Style: Individual properties – Something own.

Fashion: overall –Related common –geography , culture, age, sex, values, it could be
varied.

What are the objective of style analysis –

1. Evaluate merchandise classification.
2. Plan fashioning ( design chart/ pattern chart)
3. Calculating / setting comparative costing and pricing.

If a merchandiser fiercest the style/ fashion then he/she kept to idea about the western
culture on western recent style/fashion.

Why we select the different fashion?

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Design Chart:

It is a heart of the fully fashion and very expensive factor.

Sweater style ( based on some ) factors:

Like
1. Body style/shape
2. Shoulder style ( Arm hole style)
3. Collar style/ neck style.
4. pocket style
5. Sleeve style.

]Body style/ shape:

Fitted waist
mans only Straight bottom
for unisex A line shape for Cardigan
ladies only for unisex

Shoulder style

Raglan Saddle Steen drape

Shoulder shoulder Shoulder shoulder

Straight
Shoulder
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Sleeve style :

Sleeve less cap sleeve short sleeve 3/r sleeve

For both for ladies for both for ladies

Long sleeve
For both

Collar style :

Make neck it sailor neck boat knack

Can’t for truer

Round Neck V Neck polo neck

Hood Neck High neck Graded neck

Turtle neck V inset neck Round neck

With roll edge
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Pocket style :
Plain pocket hexagon round Square blind bellow
Pocket pocket pocket pocket pocket

Real flap Fake flap fake lip welted inverted Box

pocket
Pocket Pocket pocket pocket pocket

Style description :
Unisex pullover (straight bottom), mock neck, straight shoulder, long sleeve and single
line diamond center front, back & sleeve jersey.

Fashioning (Design chart/pattern chart) calculation for fully fashion knitwear

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What is design: Design is a creative indexer to solve a problem.

What is design chart: Design chart for a garment is a visual written instruction

Design chart produce in two methods:

a) Out line method

b) Graphical method

What is the basic requirement to calculation design chart?

a) Size specification (Measurement)

b) Gage type
c) Weight of the garments

 Pattern: Shape create by increasing or decreasing size that is called pattern.

 Art: Art is the blue print of the design.
 Design: Actual shape of the thing.
 Swatch: Small part of the fabric.
 Tension: Tight are looseness of the yarn is called tension.

Buyer’s required weight accordingly tension setup. But in seven gage m/c 8 or 6 needle
coming for tension. So tension selection in important because it is related to quality.

Swatch identification:

SW-1 SW-2

Excremental swatch wash dry pressing keep 24 hours rest 24 hours actual mesurment
yarn effect colour fastness, responsibility etc. Idea counter swatch compare.

4” 16 = 4 WPI
4

4”---------12 = 3 CPI
4

We can create design chart according to the measurement.

Calculate the fashioning sequence for the following knitted panel:

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Back panel/Pant

Say 7 Tension
WPI = 3
CPI = 4

A-A1 = 10”
B-B1 = 20”
C-C1/D-D1 = 20”

A-B = 10”
B-C = 12”
C-D = 2”

For Rib fabric

Water / Needle 3x20 = 60

Course 4x2 = 08

Body Position

Needle 3x20 = 60
Course 4x12 = 48

Raglan sleeve
Needle 3x10 = 30
Course 4x10 = 40

Calculate Decreasing needle

60
30
30/2 15 one side decrease

No of count 40
No of 7 needle 15/40/2 (-1) = (15-10)
30 5
10

Raglan sleeve panel:

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Say tension

WPI =3
CPI =4

Cuff rib

Needle 3x14 = 42
Course 4x16 = 64

Welding:
Needle 3x18 = 54
Course 4x16 = 64

A 10+1 = 2
B 11+12 = 4

Narrowing:

Needle 3x6 = 18
Course 4x12 = 48

A 2-1 =6
B 3-1 = 12

Front panel /Part

Say tension:

WPI =3
CPI =4

For bottom rib

Needle 3x14 = 42
Course 4x2 =8

Widening:
Needle 3x20 = 60
Course 4x18 = 72

A. 8+1 = 9

Straight:
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Needle 3x20 = 60
Course 4x2 =8

A 2-1 =6
B 3-1 = 12

Narrowing:

Needle 3x8 = 24
Course 4x16 = 64

a. 3-1 = 8
b. 4-1 = 10

Calculation of fashioning for the following knitted panel:

Say tension
WPI = 18
CPI = 20

Bottom rib

Needle = 18x9 = 162

Course = 20x2 = 40

Widening:

Needle = 18x19 = 342

Course = 20x16 = 320

a. 3+1 = 40
b. 4-1 = 50

Straight:
Needle = 18x19 = 342
Course = 20x2 = 40

Font panel / part

Say tension

WPI = 8
CPI = 10
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For bottom rib-1

Needle = 8x14 = 112

Course = 10x2 20

Widening

Needle = 8x20 = 160

Course = 10x16 = 100

a. 6+1 = 8
b. 7-1 = 16

Narrowing
Needle = 8x4 = 32
Course = 10x10 = 100

a. 4+1 = 20
b. 5-1 = 4

Calculating yarn consumption for fully fashion knitwear

What is consumption?
In the garments trade, consumption means quantity of raw materials with a view to
determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much
fabric, raw materials, sewing thread, accessories are required to produce a garments up to
the exporting is called consumption.

What is the unit of consumption: lb/oz

What are the requirements of calculation consumption?

-Material quantity
-Type of gage
-Business type of factory / buying house
-Weight of garments

Two types of yarn

a) Good Yarn
b) Poor Yarn.

What types of buying house exist?

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There are three types:

A) Direct order
B) Liago office
C) Corporate office: factory exist

Types of gage

a) Normal gage: 3g, 5g, 7g

b) Finer gage: 10g, 12g

Garments weight :

Weight Factory Wastage Gage chaining

16 lbs/oz + 6% (10/12)g
8% buying house

Why buying house select wastage 8%

Calculating pricing / costing for fully fashion knitwear:

What is the objective of costing?

Basic requirement to calculating pricing
Understanding-
Styling
Designing
 Type of gage
 Production / delivery time (Season)
 Payment mode
 Basic types of buying house/factory.

Season calculation

Type of gage Pick Off Pick

3g, 5g, 7g March-August September
10g, 12g September, February, March
August

Pricing:
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Costing + Profit = correct selling price

Direct + indirect cost include – calculation actual CM

C.M range based on gage

Type of gage Off pick Pick

3g $ 17/Dz $ 19/Dz
5g $ 18/Dz $ 20/Dz
7g $ 19/Dz $ 21/Dz
(10/12)g $ 22/Dz $ 24/Dz

Styling charge:
For
Shaddle or Raglan shoulder : $ 0.50/dz
Set- in or drop shoulder : $ 0.25/dz
Straight shoulder : No charging additional.

Designing charge:

For - Diamond
Normal Diamond - $ 1.00/line/dz
Fancy diamond - $ 1.50/line/dz

For-Cable

Normal cable - $ 0.25/line/dz

Fancy cable - $ 0.50/line/dz
Butterfly cable - $ 1.00/line/dz
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Mens pullover with crew neck, raglan shoulder., 3(three)line normal diamond at font
back side line butterfly, sleeve side line fancy cables, long sleeve weight 16 lbs/dz,
acrylic yarn 3 gage shipment 30th June. FOB mode shipment, for factory.

Required costing /pricing for fully fashion required yarn cost.

16 +16% = 16.96 x $1.50 = $ 25.44

C.M cost = $ 19.00
Style cost = $ 0.50
Design cost = $ 1.00

3 line diamond 1x3 = 3

1 line butterfly 1x1=1 = $ 1.00
2 line fancy cable .50x2 = 1

Trims and accessories = $ 4.00

Banking, logistic and commercial = $ 4.00

Total cost = $ 57.00/Dz