2007-Perfume Materials of France
2007-Perfume Materials of France
2007-Perfume Materials of France
Glen O. Brechbill
www.perfumerbook.com
2007
II
This book is a work of non-fiction. No part of the book may be used or reproduced in
any manner whatsoever without written permission from the author except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Library of Congress
Brechbill, Glen O.
Perfume Materials of France / Glen O. Brechbill
P. cm. 140 pgs.
1. Fragrance Ingredients Non Fiction. 2. Written odor descriptions to facillitate the
understanding of the olfactory language. 1. Essential Oils. 2. Aromas. 3. Chemicals.
4. Classification. 5. Source. 6. Art. 7. Creativity. I. Title.
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition
III
Perfume Materials of France showcases the very best of France’s fragrance industry. Fragrances have a wide
range of aromatic interpretations. Many floral formulas are based on jasmine, rose and violet materials. Mixing
the scents is similar to blending the primary colors of red, green and blue. In order to finish a perfume com-
position one can select a great variety of ingredients, which like the colours helps to round off a finished scent.
My books help to serve as a source for the pallet of odours available to the artist today. Each ingredient in turn
helps to make each formula uniquely different. Knowing what’s available helps to increase the probability of
creating something pleasing yet ingenious.
My book titled the Perfume Materials of France is a mini journey through the world of fragrance ingredients.
Collecting the information has been a passion. I enjoy the art and my internet site as a hobby. Fragrance has
been described as one of the highest art forms of the senses. The book helps to display the material availabil-
ity of a secretive industry that only a few enjoy as an art. Conversely in order to understand and create a com-
plex formula one needs to know a wide range of aromatic materials.
It is my hope that you will enjoy utilizing my reference manuscripts in your work, and find new ideas and pos-
sibilities with each viewing. Due to recent regulatory hysteria much of the choice information that appears in
this manuscript is in danger of disappearing forever.
France
IV
Copyright 2
Exaflor Catalogue 57 - 59
Endroit: Produits
Products
Eucalyptus Leaves
Ginger
Hamamelis
Hawthorn
Laurel Leaves
Lavender Flower
Lavendin Flower
Limetree (Tilleul)
Lovage
Marjoram
Mate
Mentha Citrate
Mentha Piperita
Mentha Veridis
Pepper Black
Rosemary
Safron
Sage Clary
Sarriette
Star Anise
Tarragon
Thyme
Vanilla Powder
Verbena
12
Neroli Oil - Morocco, Tunisia Spike Lavender Oil - Spain Jasmine Abs. - Egypt
Nutmeg Oil - Indonesia Spikenard Oil - India
Star Anise Oil - China Labdanum Abs. - Spain
Olibanum Oil - Somalia Sweet Orange Oil - Italy Lotus Abs. - India
Onion Oil - Egypt
Orange Pera Oil - Brazil Tagetes Oil - South Africa, Egypt Mimosa Abs. - France
Orris Oil - Italy Tangerine Oil - Brazil
Tarragon Oil - France, Hungary Orange Flower Abs. - Egypt
Palmarosa Oil - India Tea Tree Oil - Australia Orange Tree Abs. - Tunisia
Parsley Leaf Oil - Egypt Thyme Linalol Oil - France Osmanthus Abs. - China
Patchouli Oil - India Thyme Red Oil - Spain
Patchouli Light Oil - Indonesia Thyme Thymol Oil clear - France Rose Abs. - Morocco, Turkey
Patchouli Oil - Indonesia Tumeric Oil - India Rose De Mai Abs. - France
Pepper Black Oil - India
Peppermint Oil - US Valerian Root Oil - Korea Sandalwood Abs. - New
Peppermint Oil - India Vanilla Oleoresin - Madagascar Caladonia,
Peru Oil - El Salvador Vetiver Oil - Haiti, Java Spain
Petitbrain Bigarade Tree Oil -
Paraguay Wintergreen Oil - China Tonka Beans Abs. - S.A.
Petitgrain Bitter Orange Oil - Italy Treemoss Abs. - Yugoslovia
Pimento Berries Oil - Jamaica Ylang Ylang Oil - Comoro Islands Tuberose Abs. - India
Pimento Leaf Oil - Jamaica Ylang Ylang Extra - Comoro
Pine Maritime Oil - France Ylang Ylang Extra’s - Comoro Verbena Abs. - France
Pine Needles Oil - Siberia Ylang Ylang First Oil - Comoro Violet Abs. - Egypt
Ylang Ylang Second Oil - Comoro
Ravensara Oil - Madagascar Ylang Ylang Third Oil - Comoro
Roman Chamomile Oil - France
Roman Chamomile Oil - Italy Absolutes
Rose Oil - Bulgaria
Lebanon, Turkey Beeswax Abs. - France
Rosemary Oil - Morocco, Tunisia Blackcurrant buds Abs. - France
Rosewood Oil - Brazil
Carnation Abs. - Egypt
Sage Oil 30 % - Albania Castoreum Abs. - Canada
Sage Oil - Spain Cistus Abs. - Spain
Saint Thomas Bay Oil - Jamaica
Sandalwood Oil - Sri Lanka, Everlasting Abs. - Spain
New Caledonia
Schinus Terebenthifolius co2 Frangipanni Abs. - Comoros
Extract - France
Scotch Pine Oil - Austria Genet Abs. - Italy
Shallot Oil - France
Shiu Oil - China Jasmine Abs. - India
Spearmint Oil 80 % - China Jasmine Abs. Sambac - India
Produits
14
Aromatic Chemicals
Citronellyl Butyrate
Citronellyl Formate
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate
Citronellyl Propionate
Citronellyl Tiglate
CIS - 3 - Hexenyl Acetate
CIS - 3 - Hexenyl Benzoate
17
Bleu Dimacide
Bleu patente HC
Bleu Vif
Bleu Organol
Brun Ambre Au Gras
Chlorophylle Cuprique
Chlorophylle Non Cuprique
Erythosine
Jaune Organol
Jaune Soleil
Nacarat
Nigrosine
Tartrasine Ace
Tartrazine HC
Vert Organol
Oleoresines
Cannelle
Celeri
Coriandre
Capsicum
Cumin
Curcuma
Gingembre 20 %
Gingembre 32 %
Noix Muscade
Paprika 80000 UC
Paprika 100000 UC
Piment
22
Aroma Chemicals & Natural Extracts & Specialties Isolates & Natural Flavoring
Specialties Substances
Artemisia Afra
Acetate of Natural Benzyle
Allyl Amyl Glycolate Balm Acetate of Natural Cis-3-Hexenyl
Aqualone ( Watermelon Ketone ) Acetate of Natural Geranyle
Cedrelopsis Grevei Acetate of Natural Iso Amyle
Beta Ionone Cinnamon Acetyl Methyl Natural Carbinol
Cymbopogon Validus Acid Natural Butyrique
Citronellyl Nitrile Acid Natural Cinnamique
Grapefruit Marsh Acid Natural Iso Valerique
Ethyl Maltol Premier Acid Natural 2-Méthyl Butyrique
Helichrysum Splendidum Acid Natural Phenylacetique
Galbamax Hemizygia Petiolata Acid Natural Propionique
Gamma Methylionone Alcohol Natural Phenylethylique
Geranyl Nitrile Lantana Camara Aldehyde Natural C-6
Lippia Javanica Aldehyde Natural C-8
Indol Aldehyde Natural Cinnamique
Isoambrettolide Mandarin Dancy Anethol ex-Badiane
Natural Eucalyptol
Natural Farnesol
Natural 3-Octanol
Natural Terpinen-4-Ol
Specialty Materials
24
Peru Colourless SGB Perou Incolore SGB Gamma Undecalactone Gamma Undecalactone
Chrale nat. Chirale nat.
Rose Rose
Irone natural Irone natural
Spinach Epinard
Specialities & Incolores
Tuberose Tubereuse
Bucchu Stable Bucchu Stabiliese
Violet Viollettes
Clary Sage Sauge Sclaree
Oleoresines - Extraits
Galbanum Galbanum
Basil Basilic
Black Pepper India Poivre Noir Inde Lavandin Lavandin
Seaweed Oleoresin Fucus Oleoresine Ylang Heart No. 1 Ylang Heart No. 1
Ylang Heart No. 2 Ylang Heart No. 2
Maitieres Premieres Synthetiques Ylang Heart No. 3 Ylang Heart No. 3
Destillation Moleculaire
Brand Son
27
Hydraresin Absolutes
Alcoholates
Fruit Infusions
Apricot Prunus Armeniaca L. Fruit
Apple Malus Sylvestris Mill Fruit
Oleoresins, Concretes
Shrimp Morocco
Plant Infusions
Essential Oils
33
36
40
Carrot Seed Oil Peculiar dry woody, some what root like, earthy odor.
Cinnamon Bark Madagascar Sweet cinnamic spicy warm, woody and aromatic.
Clove Stem Oil Strong spicy, somewhat woody, but quite pleasant odor.
Coriander Oil Pleasant sweet somewhat woody spicy aromatic candy like.
Cumin Oil Extremely powerful diffusive green spicy, slightly fatty odor.
Floraline Tuberose Concrete Heavy floral almost nauseating sweet heavy slightly spicy odor.
Geranyl Acetate Extra The finest sweet fruity floral rosy material available at low cost.
Laurel Leaf Oil Strong but sweet aromatic, camphoraceous somewhat spicy.
Lemon Petitgrain Oil Strong fresh odor with a woody dry out.
Mandarin Italian Select Intensely sweet not very fresh orange odor.
Peppermint Oil French A clean fresh pure odor of peppermint oil very nice.
Petitgrain Oil Terpeneless Diffusive less bitter sweet floral woody odor.
Pimento Berry Abs. Sweet warm spicy woody with clove like nuances.
Thyme Oil Provence Herbal, green, woody, spice like with a medicinal thymol note.
Thyme Oil Red Rich sweet powerful, sweet warm herbaceous spicy.
Vetiver Oil Sweet heavy woody earth reminiscent of roots and wet soil.
Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.
Ylang Ylang Oil Extra Very powerful floral intensely sweet of cresylic benzoate type.
Ylang Ylang “ Third “ Sweet floral and balsamic woody odor tenacious sweet.
43
Floralines
Civet
Jasmine
Jasmine Sambac
Narcissus
Neroli
Oranger Hyacinth
Osmanthus
Pittosporum
Rose
Tuberose
47
Basil Oil Linalool Type Fennel Oil Bitter Mandarin Oil Italian Green
Basil Oil Methyl Chavicol Type Fennel Oil Sweet Mandarin Oil Italian Red
Bergamot Oil Bergapten Free Mandarin Oil Italian Yellow
Bergamot Oil Italian Galbanum Oil Marjmoram Oil Spanish
Bergamot Oil Ivory Coast Geranium Oil Bourbon Marjoram Oil Sweet
Bitter Almond Oil FFPA Garanium Oil Chinese Melissa Oil
Bitter Orange Oil Geranium Oil Egyptian Mentha Citrata
Black Pepper Oil Ginger Oil Myrtle Oil
Grapefruit Oil Myrrh Oil
Cade Oil Rectified Guaiacwood Oil
Caraway Oil Gurjum Oil Rectified Neroli Oil
Cananga Oil Nutmeg Oil
Carrot Oil Hay Oil
Celery Seed Oil Hyssop Oil Olibanum Oil
Chamomile Oil Roman Origanum Oil
Cinnamon Bark Oil Junip Population Orange Oil Folded
Cinnamon Leaf Oil
Cistus Oil Labdanum Palmarosa Oil
Citronella Oil Java Type Lantana Parsley Seed Oil
Clary Sage Oil Laurel Leaf Oil Patchouli Crude
Clove Bud Oil Lavandin Oil Abrialis Patchouli Light
Clove Leaf Oil Rectified Lavandin Oil Grosso Patchouli Oil MD
Clove Stem Oil Redistilled Lavandin Oil Sumian Pennyroyal Oil
Copaiba Oil Rectified Lavandin Oil Super Peppermint Oil Crude,
Coriander Oil Lavandin Acetyl Atederberry Oil Peppermint Oil Rectified,
Copaiba Oil Rectified Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil Redistilled,
Coriander Oil Lavender Oil Clonal Peru Balsam Oil
Vetiveryl Acetate
Aromatic Chemicals
Butyl Butyrate
Butyl Iso Butyrate
Eugenyl Acetate
Geranyl Butyrate
Geranyl Formate
Geranyl Iso Butyrate
Geranyl Propionate
Hexyl Acetate
Hexyl Butyrate
Hexyl Hexanoate
Hexyl Iso Butyrate
50
Liste de Produits
53
Maces Indonesie
Marjolaine - Allemagne
Massoia Ecorce - Indonesie
Melisse - Allemagne
Menhe - USA
Millepertuis
Myrrhe - Ethiopie
Olibanum - Oman
Olibanum - Inde
Onagre Graine - Chine
Romarin - Maroc
Romarin - Espagne
Romarin antioxydant visqueux
Romarin antioxydant poudre
Catalogue
57
Essential Oils
60
Ylang Ylang Extra Comores Ylang Extra Oil Olibanum Olibanum Oil
Ylang Ylang I Comores Ylang I Oil Orange Douce Bresil Sweet Orange Oil
Ylang Ylang II Comores Ylang II Oil
Ylang Ylang III Comores Ylang III Oil Palmarosa Palmarosa Oil
Pamplemousse Israel Grapefruit Oil
Water Soluble Oils: Patchouli Indonesie Patchouly Oil
Perou Baume Peru Balsam
Nom du produit Product Name Pin Siberie Russie Pine Siberian Oil
Bois De Gayac Guaiacwood Oil Romarin Afrique Du Nord Rosemary African Oil
Bois De Rose Bresil Rosewood Oil
Bouleau Rectifie Birch Oil Rectified Sauge Officinale Europe Sage Officinalis Oil
Sauge Sclaree Pays Clary Sage Oil
Cajeput Indonesie Cajeput Oil
Camphre Blanche Chine Camphor Oil White Tea Tree Tea Tree Oil
Cannelle Chine Cinnamon Leaf Oil
Carvi Europe Caraway Oil Vetyver Java Vetyvert Java Oil
Citron Espagne Lemon Oil
Citronelle Indonesie Citronella Oil Ylang Ylang Extra Comores Ylang Extra Oil
Coriandre Russe Coriander Oil Ylang Ylang III Comores Ylang III Oil
Hydrolats Hydrolates
Camomille Chamomille
Lavande Lavender
Romarin Rosemary
Rosaline Rosalin
Rose Rose
Santal Sandalwood
Sauge Sage
Produits
65
Heliotropine
Hydroxycitronellal Ex - Citriodora
Hydroxycitronellal Ex -
Citronnelle
Indol
Ionone Totale
Iso Butyrate De Geranyle
Iso Eugenol
Iso Pulegol
Linalol Ex - Shiu
68
Carvacrol Caraway.
L - (-) Carveol Caraway, spearmint.
D - (-) Carvone Reminiscent odor of caraway, spearmint, herbal.
L - (-) Carvyl Acetate Green spearmint odor, minty taste.
L - (-) Carvyl Propionate Sweet minty and fruity odor and taste.
Cinnamyl Iso Butyrate Spicy, woody, clove. Balsamic odor and taste.
Cinnamyl Phenyl Acetate Chrysanthemum-like odor. Used in honey and chocolate.
Cinnamyl Tiglate Sweet floral-herbaceous odor.
Citral Powerful lemon.
Citral Diethyl Acetal Fresh citrusy odor. Used in perfumes and citrus flavors.
Citral Natural Strong but fresh and clean lemon-like odor. Sweet, fruity citrussy
green lemon peel. Characteristic bittersweet taste.
Citronellal Natural Fresh-green citrus-like. Intense lemon-citronella, rose-type odor.
Citronellol Used in perfumer and citrus flavors.
Citronelloxy Acetaldehyde Muguet note, green floral, honeysuckle and rose strong odor. Used
in floral and fruit flavors.
Citronellyl Acetate Fresh, rosy, fruity odor.
Citronellyl Butyrate Passion fruit, tomato.
Citronellyl Formate Fresh, fruity and rosy odor. Sweet fruit taste reminiscent of neroli.
Citroenllyl Iso Butyrate Floral rosy odor.
Citronellyl Iso Butyrate Floral rosy odor.
Citronellyl Nitrile Fresh intense lemonplike odor with a green herbal nuance.
Citronellyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet roseplike odor, used in honey and caramel flavors.
Cironellyl Propionate Fruity rosy odor, used in perfumes.
Citronellyl Tiglate Leafy-rosy, slightly balsamic. Useful in herbaceous perfumes.
Citronellyl Valerate Rosy, herbaceous, honey.
Corps Pamplemousse Fresh, fruity, citrussy with green and nutmeg reminiscent notes followed
( corps citrus ) with spicy pungent odor. Grapefruit typical flavouring character.
p-Cresyl Acetate Strong floral odor, narcissus like, sweet fruity taste. Useful in banana,
p-Cresyl Iso Butyrate Powerful narcissus-lily odor, floral, fruity. Sweet fruity taste.
Cuminaldehyde Spicy, woody, cinnamon odor, cumin taste. Used in spiced flavors.
Cyclo Hexyl Acetate Fruity odor, fruity apple taste. Prune, fatty musk.
Cyclo Hexyl Anthranilate Orange, rape odor, sweet fruity tate. Used in apple, banana, and grape.
Cyclo Hexyl Butyrate Fatty, fruity, apple, banana odor and taste. Used in fruit flavors.
2 ,3-Heptanedione Powerful cheese, pungent odor, buttery taste. Used in butter and cheese.
2-Heptanol Lemon like, herbaceous odor. Fruity, bitter.
Cis-4-Hepten-1-AL Powerful green odor.
Trans-2-Hepten-1-AL Green vegetable odor.
2-Heptenoic Acid Beer.
Heptyl Acetate Fatty, fruity odor, milk, coconut, apricot taste.
Heptyl Butyrate Fatty, fruity odor, sweet strawberry taste. Used in strawberry, plum.
Heptyl Caprylate Fatty, green, fruity odor and taste. Used in fruit flavors.
Trans-2,trans-4-Hexadienal Green pungent odor, citrus-like taste.
2,4-Hexadien-1-OL Fresh green, herbal odor. Used in herbal fragrances.
Gamma-Hexalactone Herbaceous, tobacco-like.
Trans-2-Hexenal Green vegetable odor, fresh green taste.
Trans-2-Hexenal Diethyl Acetal Green fruity odor, apple.
Cis-2-Hexen-1-OL Green note.
Trans-2-Hexen-1-OL Sweet green fruity leafy odor.
Cis-3-Hexen-1-OL Green odor, cut grass fresh.
Trans-3-Hexen-1-OL Powerful green odor.
Trans-2-Hexenyl Acetate Fruity green odor, fresh green taste.
Trans-3-Hexenyl Acetate Green fruity odor. Green mushoom taste.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Acetate Fruity odor, green note.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Anthranilate Sweet fruity odor, grape character. Used in perfumes.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Benzoate Green leaf, woody odor.
Trans-2-Hexenyl Butyrate Intense fruity green leafy odor.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Butyrate Green fruity taste.
Trans-2-Hexenyl Caproate Fruity green odor, apple.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Caproate Fruity greeen, pear-like odor.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Caprylate Green odor, green and wine taste.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Formate Occurs in black tea, raspberry.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Cis-3-Hexenoate Green tomato, pear, melon.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Iso Butyrate Fruity, winey, green and apple-like odor. More fruity than the butyrate.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Lactate Fresh green bean and green vegetable note.
Cis-3-Hexenyl2-Methyl Butyrate Fruity, green-apple odor. Herbaceous fruity taste.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Phenyl Acetate Sweet rosy, floral and green odor. Used in mint flavors.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Propionate Powerful green vegetable odor, fruity taste.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate Very tenacious green, woody balsamic odor.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Tiglate Tenacious fruity floral green odor. Fresh note.
Cis-3-Hexenyl Valerate Green, fruity, Used in perfume blends.
Trans-2-Hexenyl Valerate Fruity, apple, pear, wine-like odor.
Hexyl Benzoate Woody, balsamic.
Hexyl Caprylate Fruity, apple odor. Sweet cognac taste.
Hexyl Formate Strong apple odor, used in apple flavors.
Hexyl Iso Butyrate Green, fruity. Useful in strawberry and fruit flavors.
Hexyl Iso Valerate Green fruity odor, fruity apple taste. Provides tobacco notes in blends.
Hexyl Lactate Sweet floral odor, pear-like taste.
Hexyl 2-Methyl Butyrate Fresh green and fruity odor. Green strawberry taste.
Hexyl Nicotinate Synthetic, earthy, metalic waxy.
Hexyl Propionate Earthy, sour, fruity odor. Useful in fruity flavors.
Honey Wax Sweet honey characteristic note with a waxy undertone.
4-(4-Hydroxyphenyl)-2-Butanone Sweet fruity odor and taste, used in raspberry flavors.
Maltol Propionate Sweet berry like odor and taste useful in strawberry.
Massoialactone Coconut, lactone, sweet creamy and fatty. Slight celery note.
Menthofuran Musty, nutty, minty. Peppermint taste. Used in mint flavors.
3-Mercapto-1-Hexanol Identified in yellow passion fruit. Useful in tropical fruits flavor.
2-Mercaptomethyl Pyrazine Roasted in sugar syrup.
1-Mercapto-2-Propanone Powerful, teacious sweet odour. Used in cooked port, roast pork flavors.
Methional Onion and meat odor, cabbages taste.
2-Methoxy-4-Methyl Phenol Spicy, Vanilla-like odor. Used in rum and nut blends.
Methyl Butyrate Fruity, honey, pepper, coffee.
2-Methyl Butyric Acid Cheese odor and fruity taste.
Methyl Caproate Fruity, pineapple.
Methyl Caprylate Winey, fruity, orange odor.
Methyl Cyclo Pentenolone Coffee, caramel, maple syrup.
5-Methylfurfural Sweet, spicy, warm odor, sweet caramel-like flavor.
Methyl Furfuryl Disulfide Fruity, berry.
Methyl Heptanoate Berry, fruity, green odor, green taste.
5-Methyl-2-Hepten-4-One Roasted, hazelnut, buttery odor and taste. Mushroom taste.
Methyl Trans-2-Hexenoate Fruity odor, pineapple.
Methyl Trans-3-Hexenoate Fruity odor.
Methyl 3-Hydroxy Hexanoate Winey odor.
Methyl Iso Butyrate Fruity, rum odor and taste.
Methyl Iso Valerate Fruity, apple.
Methyl Methyl Anthranilate Orange and mandarin-peel like odor.
Methyl 2-Methyl Butyrate Fruity odor and taste in dilution. In fruit flavors.
Methyl 4-Methyl Pentanoate Pineapple fruity.
Methyl 3-Methyl Thio Propionate Occurs in pineapple, white wine.
Methyl Trans-2-Octenoate Powerful fruity odor. Pear taste.
Methyl Pelargonate Wine and coconut odor. Coconut taste.
Methional Powerful green odor. Onion and coffee flavors.
2-Methyl-2-Phenyl-2-Hexenal Roasted hazelnut, cocoa.
4-Methyl-2-Phenyl-2-Pentenal Honey, cocoa odor, chocolate taste.
Methyl 3-Phenyl Propionate Sweet fruity and floral odor and honey taste.
2-Methyl-4-Propyl-1-3-Oxathiane Exotic fruity green note. Identified in yellow passion fruit.
2Methyl-3-Propyl Pyrazine Nutty, in sugar syrup.
2-Methyl Pyrazine Green, roasted, nutty. Chocolate, roasted peanuts, grilled chicken.
5-Methyl Quinoxaline Burnt, roasted, nutty coffee.
Methyl Sorbate Licorice and anise odor and taste.
4-Methyl Thiazole Nutty green.
2-Methyl-2-Thiazoline Nutty, beffy, sulfureous, musty.
4-Methyl Thio-2-Butanone Sweet fruity, vegetative, potato, tomato.
2-Methyl Thio-3-Ethyl Pyrazine Strong roasted or cooked meat.
3-Methyl Thio-1-Hexanol Green fatty sulfury note. Reminiscent of exotic fruity flavor
identified in passion fruit.
3-Methyl Thio Hexyl Acetate Useful in tropical fruits flavor. Nature identical. Identified in yellow
Safranal Phenolic, camphoreous, herbaceous and woody. Saffron odor and taste.
Sulfurol Occurs in cocoa, beet, peanut, beer, cognac.
Sulfurol Acetate Beefy
Tangerinol Tangerine.
5,6,7,8-Tetrahydroquinoxaline Cheese odor.
Tetramethylpyrazine Fermented soybeans, lard.
Thiazole Pyridine-like, nutty, meaty.
Thiomenthone Strong and tenacious powerful odour. Catty note of black currant
bud. Constituent of buchu leaf oil.
4-Thujanol Spicy taste used in pepper blends.
Thymol Burnt, smoky, woody.
2-Tridecanone Creamy, milky, herbaceous, spicy. Waxy nutty odor, coconut taste.
Trans-2-Tridecen-1-AL Citrus and orange taste; tangerine odor.
2,3,5-Trimethyl Pyrazine Baked potato, roasted nuts, grassy, roasted hazelnuts, schrimp, cheese.
2,4,5-Trimethyl Thiazole Occurs in potato, coffee, cocoa, hazelnut, dark, chocolate.
Gamma - Undecalactone Musty, fruity, peach
2-Undecanone Citrus, rose odor, fatty fruity taste.
1,3,5-Undecatriene Green, melon, pineapple, fruity odor.
Specialty Materials
77
78
Pure & Natural Essential Oils Ginger Top Note CO2 - India Clove Bud Abs. - Asia
Madagascar,
Hay Oil - France
Ambrette Seed Oil - Spain, Turkey Hay Abs. - France
Angelica Seed Oil - Belgium, Juniper Berry Oil - Europe
Netherlands Jasmin Egypt Abs. - Egypt
Angelica Root Oil - Belgium, Marjoram Oil - France
Netherlands Myrrh Oil - Ethiopia, Somalia Labdanum Abs. - Spain
Anise Seed Oil - China
Armoise Oil - Morocco, Turkey Nutmeg Top Note CO2 - India Mimosa Abs. French - France
Mousse Cedre Abs. - Morocco
Baie Rose Oil - South Africa Olibanum Oil - Somalia
Basil Oil - Commores, Morocco Opoponax Oil - Ethiopia, Narcissus Abs. - France
Black Pepper CO2 - India Somalia
Orris Abs. - Morocco
Cardamon Oil - India Patchouly Oil MD - Indonesia Orris Butter - Morocco
Chamomile Blue Oil - Pepper Black Oil - Madagascar
North Africa Peppermint Oil - North West USA Patchouly Abs. - Indonesia
Chamomile Moroc Oil - Peru Oil - El Salvador
Morocco Peru Balsam MD - El Salvador Rose Pays Abs. - France
Chamomile Roman Oil - France Rose Turkish Abs. - Turkey
Cinnamon Bark Oil - Asia Rose Turkish Oil - Turkey Rose Turkish Abs. MD - Turkey
Cinnamon Leaf Oil - Asia
Cistus Oil - Spain Styrax MD - Honduras Tonka Abs. - Brazil
Clove Bud Oil - Madagascar,
Asia Natural Absolutes Vanilla Abs. - Madagascar
Clove Leaf Oil - Madagascar, Vetyver Roots Abs. - Haiti
Asia Benzoin Abs. - Sumatra Violet Leaf Abs. - France
Coffee Arabica CO2 - Ethopia Bourgeons De Cassis Abs. -
Cypress Oil Pays - France France Natural Resinoids
Massoia Lactone
Menthone L-23MF
Methyl Benzoate
Methyl Cinnamate
Methyl Heptenone
Methyl Methyl Anthranilate
Methyl Methyl 2 Butyrate
Octanal
Terpinen - 4 - OL
Terpineol (Alpha)
82
Musc MF
Musc Solid MF
Nutmeg Oil MF
Oakmoss Resinoid MF
Oakmoss Resinoid Std MF
Oakmoss Resinoid Green Std MF
Origan Oil MF
Rose Oil MF
Rosewood Oil Std
Violet Oil MF
Essential Oils
85
88
Tiglic Acid
Undecanoic Acid
Warm Balsamic
Cinnamyl Cinnamate
Heliotropine Acetone
Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate
Phenyl Ethyl Salicylate
Piperonyl Acetate
l - Rotarol
Chemical or Neutral
2 - Heptanone
91
Verbena Abs.
Violet Egypt Abs.
Violet French Abs.
Resinoid
Elemi Resinoid
Fenugreen Resinoid
Gentian Resinoid
Labdanum Resinoid
Mate Resinoid
Myrrh Resinoid
Olibanum Resinoid
Orris Resinoid
Peru Resinoid
Styrax Resinoid
Tonka Resinoid
Oleoresin
Salmon Oleoresin
Concrete
Orris 15 % Concrete
Orris 8 % Concrete
94
Essential Oils
Expressed Oils
Concretes
Absolutes
Resins
Tinctures
Infusions
Floral: rose, jasmin, gardenia, muguet, lily, carnation, violet, hyacinth, iris, lilac, geranium, ylang.
Isolates.
Seni-synthetic products.
Synthetic products.
Semi-synthetic: cedryle acetate, vetiveryl acetate, heliotropine, hydroxycitronnellal, ionones and methyl
ionones, carvone, terpineol, isobornyle acetate.
Synthetic: musk ketone, musk xylene, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl alcohol, benzoic aldehyde, cinnamic alde-
aldehyde, amyl cinnamic aldehyde, hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, phenylacetic aldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,
diphenylmethane, polycyclic musks, benzophenone, styrallyl acetate, coumarin, anethol, anisic aldehyde,
amyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, eugenol, vanillin, ethyl-vanillin, iso-eugenol, eugenyl acetate, coumarin,
thymol, nitromusks, menthol, menthone, anisic aldehyde, anisic alcohol, anisic.
Esters: methyl anthranilate, methyl-N methyl anthranilate, methyl naphtyl ketone, heterocyclic
musks.
Schiff bases
Fragance Families
Water, floral, soft floral, floral oriental, oriental, woody oriental, mossy woods, dry woods, aromatic.
Application
Shower gels, shampoos, deodorants, anti-perspirant deodorant sticks, soaps, candles, potpourris, and air fresh-
ners, fine fragrances.
96
Fine Products
99
Alpha Ionone Soft warm, orris violet like, sweet and extremely diffusive.
Carnaline Has a typical carnation top note, recalling the iso eugenol effect. It also pre-
sents a spicy vanilla fragrance, with a fresh, green and flowery background.
Candalum A sandalwood fragrance that blends well with many functional applications
including bases, and fine fragrances.
Methyl Salicylate Warm and sweet ranty fruity odor, reminiscent of wintergreen oil.
Petunial Is a rich floral environment associated with fresh (slightly minty), fruity
(cherry) and leathery notes.
Phenoxy Ethyl Iso Butyrate Has a sweet fruity odour reminiscent of pear and pineapple. It has also a
floral-rosy note with a honey facet. It blends well with ionones, rose alcohols,
terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal.
Rhodiaflor SB Soft floral flowery note, slightly aromatic, slightly musk recalling ylang-ylang.
Rhodiaflor SE Ethyl Salicylate has been detected in raspberry, currant, strawberry, grape,
tomato, pepper and many others. Its evocation is floral and fruity.
Rhodiaflor SiA Although olfactively closed to amyl-oxo salicylate, has more overtones of
clover and fern.
Rhodiaflor SME Methyl Salicylate occurs in nature, especially as glucosides. It is the main con-
stituent of wintergreen oil and birch bark oil. It is also present in the oils of
ylang-ylang, cassia, polianthe tuberosa and in fruits like peach, strawberry,
blueberry.
Rhodiaflor SME Extra Pure This is an extra pure version of Methyl Salicylate otherwise known as winter
green oil. It is found naturally in many essential oils. It possessess a freshness
and mintyness reminiscent of many fine candys.
Rhodiaflor SnH Fresh, natural, herbaceous sweet and flower note. Persist several days on
smelling strips.
Rhodiaflor SoA Tropical flower, lavender, clover, smoothly salt, natural note. Its expression is
intense, calm, fresh and vibrant. Moderate strength, and strong tenacity
lasts more than a week on smelling strips.
Rhodiantal Heavy, creamy, sensual, noble, mystical sandalwood note. Raw material for
fragrance compounds.
Rhodiascent Extra Pure A purerer form of coumarin. Has the odor of new mown hay with a delicate
spicyness that is strong yet fresh.
Rosilial Rosy floral note with a citrus facet. It brings natural effect, much more natural
than that usually brought by various rose alcohol.
Rosilial Plus A slightly stronger and more lasing rosy floral note. The fragrance possesses
a naturalness that is based on various rose alcohol materials.
Roxe Oxide (High CIS) Green dark rose spicy and fresh geranium.
Styrallyl Acetate Nature-identical, has an agressive powerful green note, with fruity rhubarb,
hazelnut floral tones and a gardenia-like note.
Tri Cyclo Decenyl Acetate This fragrance can find use in various compositions that include Chypre, and
Lavender. A perfect fit for green-fruity compositions, at a level up to 10%.
It is stable in a wide variety of functional bases.
Natural Ingredients
102
Ambre 140 BSA Rather subtle odor reminiscent of seaweed, wood, and moss.
Angelica Root Oil A mixture of musk and pepper with a spicy top note.
Angleica Seed Essence Spicy, finer than the oil from the roots.
Angelica Seed Oil Main constituent is phillandrene that has a fresh light peppery odor.
Anise Oil Intensely sweet and clean odor truly reminiscent of the fruit.
Arnica Abs. Herbaceous sweet, tea like, somewhat spicy powerful odor.
Basil Abs. Sweet spicy slightly green fresh with faint balsamic woody tone.
Black Currant Buds Abs. Powerful spicy woody odor slight phenolic undertones.
Ble ( Wheat ) Abs. Any of various cereal grasses of the genus triticum.
Bois De Rose Terpeneless Oil Floral and reminiscent of rose orange and mignonette.
Bornia Substitute Natural Abs. Fresh fruity green, sweet tea like, slightly spicy herbaceous.
Bran Abs. The seed husk or outer coating of cereals ex: wheat, rye, oats.
Brouts ( Orange Flower ) Abs. Intensely floral, heavy and rich, warm but also delicate and fresh.
Bruvere Abs. Resembles guaicwood, very mild, woody green slightly spicy.
Cafe ( Coffee ) Abs. Typical of the amine like or animal odor of the wet cola nuts.
Camomile Moroccan Oil Similar to other camomiles, except for a rosy honey character.
Camomile Romaine Characteristic odour of the flowers, fresh sweet and herbaceous.
Cardamone Resinoid Warm spicy and aromatic at first penetrating cineole like.
Caroube ( Carob Tree ) Abs. Sweet leafy green slightly floral characteristic of the tree.
Carrot Seed Terpeneless Oil Earthy woody and root like which varies upon seed source.
Celeri Abs. Spicy warm, sweet and rich, soup like long lasting and powerful.
Champaca Natural Substitute Abs. Sweet oily grassy reminiscent of freshly cut stems of tulips.
Chevrefeuille ( Honeysuckle ) Abs. Intensely sweet fatty floral reminiscent of the jasmin absolute chasis.
Chicoree Resinoid The root of a plant when dried, roasted is mixed with coffee.
Cire D ‘ Aabeille ( Beeswax ) Abs. Very mild sweet oily odor with a hay like body note.
Ciste Abs. Powerful tenacious, warm sweet yet dry and reminiscent of ambra.
Ciste Resinoid Powerful tenacious warm, sweet yet dry reminiscent of ambra.
Citron Leafa Rectified Oil Tree native to asia having lemon like fruit with aromatic rind.
Civette Abs. Animal sweet, free from fecal and urine notes.
Clove Leaf Rectified Oil Woodiness dryness are most typical odor of clove leaf.
Cocoa Abs. For the use of cola in flavors generally bitter woody odor.
Cypress Abs. Powerful balsamic fatty, sweet and pine like odor.
Elemi Abs. Fresh terpeney peppery lemon with woody balsamic background.
Encens ( Olibanum ) Abs. Fresh balsamic yet dry and resinous slightly green odor.
Estragon Abs. Sweet anisic, green spicy slightly celery like odor.
Fir Balsam Abs. Balsamic, somewhat resinous, but also fresh odor of spruce oil.
Foin ( Hay ) Abs. Sweet herbaceous tea like fragrance reminiscent of clary sage.
Galbanum Abs. Intensely green, fresh leafy odor with a dry woody undertone.
Galbanum Resinoid Has sweet balsamic like body with green parsley like top.
Gentiana Abs. A group of herbs with a colorless bitter juice, genus gentian.
Geranium Abs. Intense and powerful somewhat leafy earthy but soft pleasant.
Helichrysum Oil Powerful and diffusive, but pleasant and rich natural odor.
Immortelle ( Everlasting ) Abs. Intensely sweet herbaceous honey like slight woody floral.
Jasmin Chassis Abs. Resembles odor orange flower absolute, warm sweet heavy.
Jonquille Abs. Heavy honey like, deep sweet floral odor strong green tone.
Jonquille Jacinthe Abs. A moderate orange that is yellower and stronger then honey dew.
Labdanum Abs. Deep sweet balsamic, faintly herbaceous with ambra tone.
Labdanum Cistus Abs. Warm and sweet yet dry reminiscent of ambra.
Licevhe ( Lovage ) Oil Persistent and spicy reminiscent of angelica root oil.
Lie De Vin Green Heavy sweet etheral odor of a fine brandy from the south of France.
Lie De Vin Green ( Cognac ) Seperated by fractionating residue from production of brandy.
Lie De Vin White ( Cognac ) Seperated by fractionating residue from fine brandy.
Longoza Abs. Extremely rich sweet floral deep fruity honey like odor.
Marin ( Seaweed ) Abs. Intensely herbaceous phenolic woody and dry odor.
Mate Abs. Peculiar, rich herbaceous, dry leafy, woody foilage like.
Melissa Resinoid A herb obtained by distilling lemon oil over the herb.
Menthe Fraiche Abs. Fresh and somewhat bitter sweet odor reminiscent of peppermint.
Menthe Sechee Abs. Sweet herby somewhat fruity fresh odor minty like.
Mimosa Odor Essence Green floral capturing the heart of the mimosa flower.
Mint Fresh Abs. Extremely strong intensely fresh mint odor drys out very nice.
Mousse De Arbe Abs. Woody dry forest like, or seaweed like, herbaceous green.
Myrrh Oil Rectified A distinctly spicy and eucalyptus evergreen type aroma.
Narcisse Abs. Strong foilage green very sweet herbaceous pleasant floral tone.
Oeillet ( Carnation ) Abs. Very sweet honey like, somewhat herbaceous heavy.
Olibanum ( Encens ) Fresh, balsamic, yet dry and resinous slightly green odor.
Osmanthus Abs. Distinct exotic floral odor reminiscent of plums and raisins.
Osmanthus 7600 Abs. Distinct exotic floral odor reminiscent of plums and raisins.
Osmanthus Sub Abs. Distinct exotic floral odor reminiscent of plums and raisins.
Patchouly Abs. Rich sweet herbaceous aromatic spicy woody balsamic odor.
Pepper Oil Intense spicy and peppery characteristic odor of the vine.
Pepper Resinoid Fresh dry, woody warm spicy odor reminiscent of cubebs.
Peru Balsam Abs. Typical balsamic one rich, cinnamic with vanilla sweetness.
Pepper Balsam Essence The heart of peru balsam sweetening agent amber and vanilla.
Pine Needles Abs. Sweet pine woody somewhat balsamic anisic odor.
Rose De Mai Abs. Rich and sweet deep rosy tenacious odor.
Rosemary Abs. Strong fresh woody herbaceous somewhat minty forest like.
Rose Moroccan Abs. Deep sweet, rich and tenacious floral rose odor.
Rose Oil Turkey Commercial An extremely floral typical rose odor, not intense or over powering.
Rose Turkey Abs. Deep sweet rich rosy floral odor, source Turkey.
Sage Clary Abs. Rich delicate sweet yet bitter winey somewhat herbaceous odor.
Styrax Abs. Rich balsamic sweet floral, reminiscent of lilac, hyacinth in dilution.
Tabac Balkan Decolorized Abs. Strong almost repulsive faintly reminiscent of cigar tobacco.
Tagetes Oil Intense somewhat fruity and cloying, dilution resembles apples.
Tangerine Type Oil Sweet tangy tangerine like reminiscent of the peel.
Thyme Abs. Dry herbaceous sweet somewhat green with a rich spicy tone.
Tonka Feves Abs. Rich sweet coumaranic with a herbaceous overtone still warm.
Tonka Feves Resinoid Pleasant and herbaceous with slight caramel coumarin tones.
Violet Leaves Abs. Powerful green leaf odor delicately floral note reminiscent violet.
Ylang Abs. Intensely sweet floral very diffusive odor truly reminiscent.
114
Acetic Acid Butter, butterscotch, cheese, chocolate, grape, raspberry, rum, spice,
strawberry, vinegar, wine.
Aldehyde C - 6 Hexanol.
Benzaldehyde Bitter almond oil ex-various Prunus kernels. Almond, berries, yellow
fruits, cherry, pistachio, brandy, liquors, rum, vanilla spices.
Benzoic Acid Main use in blackberries - cranberry and raspberry in particular - cinna-
mon, tea, apple, beer, bread products, cocoa and honey. Provides the
astringent note in tea, the burnt effect in maple flavours and helps build
the Beta Damascenone character in complex with other molecules.
Benzyl Acetate Used in flavour compositions for apple, apricot, banana, butter, cherry,
peach, pear, plum, pineapple, quince, raspberry, strawberry.
Benzyl Alcohol Floral and fruity type flavours in particular: blueberry, raspberry, logan-
berry, cherry, grape, honey, muscatel, orange, vanilla, nut, walnut.
Butyl Acetate ( N - butyl acetate ) Fruit flavours, especially apple, pear, banana; also useful in rum,
whiskey, cognac or wine flavours.
Cis - 3 - Hexenyl Acetate Red fruits, yellow fruits, banana. To give the green note and lift. Also
useful for tomato, sweet pepper, pepper.
Cis - 3 - Hexenyl Lactate Fruity notes, berries, notes with a juice character.
Cis-3-Hexenyl-3-Methyl Butyrate Green. Blends well with a wide variety of essential oils including
clary sage, geranium lavander, and lavandin.
Cis - 3 - Hexenyl Propionate Fresh, green, fruity, slightly waxy and vegetable like character. Useful
in apple, strawberry, guava and other tropical fruit accords.
Ethyl Butyrate Fruit flavours, especially cherry, grape, orange, orange tutti frutti.
Dairy flavours, especially butter, cheese and cream.
Ethyl Iso Butyrate Fruit flavours, especially cherry, grape, orange, orange tutti frutti.
Dairy flavours, especially butter, cheese and cream.
Ethyl Iso Valerate Apple, grapefruit, citrus, cheese, rum and tobacco.
Ethyl Phenyl Acetate Honey, apricot, cherry, peach, butter, tobacco flavouring.
Geranyl Acetate In beverages, chewing gum, candy, baked goods and frozen desserts.
Geranyl Butyrate Beverages, confectionery products, baked goods and frozen desserts.
Fruit flavours including citrus. Suggested use level: 0.1 to 10 ppm.
Green Key KF 1150 Juices, all red berries and yellow fruits in particular. Gives green note
and lift. Also very useful for tomato, sweet pepper, pepper.
Green Key KF 85105 Green notes, juice, berries. Very useful for tomato, sweet pepper,
pepper.
Green Complex 197 Green, oily, slightly fatty character, for green notes.
Green Complex Acetate 197 Brings a green pear like and applelike character.
Iso Amyl Iso Butyrate Fruit flavours, especially apricot, pineapple, banana, peach and apple.
Iso Amyl Iso Valerate Fruit flavours, especially apple, banana, peach and apricot; use
level 1 to 250 ppm.
Iso Butyl Acetate Fruit flavours, especially apple, pear, banana and pineapple; also useful
in rum, whiskey and wine flavours. Use level: 1 to 250 ppm.
Laevo Linalool Floral notes, mango, exotic fruits, peach, apricot, chocolate.
Massoia Lactone C 10 Coconut, pineapple, caramel, strawberry as well as for the yellow fruits)
3 - Methyl Butyl Acetate Fruit flavours, tutti frutti, apple, banana, pear.
2 - Methyl Butyric Acid Fruit flavours, berries, in particular cranberry and hazelnut.
3 - Methyl Butyric Acid Fruit flavours - white bread, butter and milk flavours - mushroom, rum.
Methyl Cinnamate Strawberry, cherry, grape, yellow fruits, vanilla, mouth wash.
Methyl Nonyl Ketone Strawberry, raspberry, red fruit in general, and also apple and pineapple.
1 - Octyl Acetate ( Octyl Acetate ) Fresh green neroli jasmin fruity herbal accords. Used in a variety of
compositions including fruity, chypre, citrus accords.
3 - Octyl Acetate To add a floral note (rose, jasmine, neroli type) to fruit compounds,
especially berries, tea and citrus flavours.
1 - Octyl Butyrate ( Octyl Butyrate ) Background taste of fruit flavours, melon, apricot.
Phenyl Acetic Acid Honey, caramel, vanilla, chocolate, nuts and peanuts, and to give a
sweet note to fruity flavours.
Phenyl Ethyl Acetate Honey and cocoa compounds as well as sweet and floral notes.
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol Honey and cocoa compounds as well as sweet and floral notes.
Pyrazine Complex Adds a cooked note to a flavour. Chocolate, hazelnut, berries, peach.
Terpinene - 4 - OL Citrus flavours, particularly lime; for tropical fruits and berry flavours.
119
Aldehyde C - 6 Verdoxan
Produits
123
Trans 2 Hexenal
Trans 2 Hexenol
Vanilline
Specialty Products
127
Spécialtiés
Muguet Des Bois 11793 Note d'un bouquet de muguet des bois.
Muscarome J.10 - A.M.C.R. Note de teinture de musc tonkin, sans alcool éthylique.
Muscarome J.5 - A.M.C.R. Note de teinture de musc tonkin, contient de l'alcool éthylique.
Oeillet Mignardise RI Note d'un bouquet d'oeillet mignardise, d'une grande expansion.
Scentolide Note musquée, très fine, riche, ronde, ayant une très
Cis Iso Ambrettolide grande expansion.
Acetate De Linalyle Naturel Note fraîche, plus marquée que celle du prod. de synthèse.
Acetate Sylvestre Qualité spéciale d'Acétate Cédryle Liquide Note boisée, cèdre.
Ambarome 2000 Version actualisée de l'Ambrarome Absolu, avec une note chaude,
moins animale, plus boisée.
CIS - Jasmone II Note jasminée très puissante, plus nette que celle de
la « Cis-Jasmone ».
Linalol Naturel Note fraîche, plus puissante que celle du produit de synthèse.
Source
135
Aromax France 22 - 23
Thélème, 1503 route des Dolines, F - 06560 Sophia Antipolis, Tel: 33 04 9395 8338
Barosyl SA France 33 - 35
1, Rue Pacho, 06300, Nice Tel: 33 04 9708 2330
Exaflor France 56 - 58
ZA de la Cerisaie Nord - 10 rue de Chevilly - 94260 Fresnes, Tel: 33 (0) 1 4198 7940
Interchim France 67 - 75
211 bis, avenue Kennedy, BP 1140 - 03103 Montlucon, Cedex, Tel: 33 0 4 7003 8855
Mane SA France 76 - 79
247620, Route de Grasse, 06620 Le Bar Sur Loup, Tel: 33 4 9309 7000
PCAS France 86 - 88
For address and telephone number please contact company’s web site.
Prodarom France 92 - 93
48, avenue Riou Blanquet - BP 21017, 06131, Grasse, Cedex, Tel: 33 4 92 42 34 90
Prodasynth France 94 - 96
Parc industriel des Bois de Grasse, Avenue Louison Bobet 06130, Grasse, Tel: 33 4 9309 0011
Bibliography
138