AATCC Test Method 128-2009

Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method

Developed in 1968 by AATCC Committee 6. Test Specimens
RR6; jurisdiction transferred in 1995 to
AATCC Committee RA61; reaffirmed and 6.1 Take three test specimens from the
editorially revised 1969, 1985, 1994, fabric to be tested by cutting each 15 × 28
2004, 2009; revised 1970, 1974; reaf- cm (6 × 11 in.) with the long dimension
firmed 1977, 1980, 1989, 1999; editori- running in the direction of the warp of
ally revised 1988, 1990, 1992, 1995. woven fabric or the wale of knit fabrics
Technically equivalent to ISO 9867. (see 11.4). Identify each specimen along
one edge of the face side.
6.2 Condition specimens for a mini-
1. Purpose and Scope mum of 8 h at 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65
± 2% RH.
1.1 This test method is for determining
the appearance of textile fabrics after in- 7. Procedure
duced wrinkling. It is applicable to fab-
rics made from any fiber or combination 7.1 Perform all further steps at 21 ±
of fibers. 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH.
1.2 The method can be used to evaluate 7.2 Raise top flange of wrinkle tester
fabrics at their original, unwashed state or and hold in top position with locking pin.
after home laundering. 7.3 Wrap one long edge (28 cm) (11
in.) of the specimen around the top flange
2. Principle of the AATCC Wrinkle Tester with the
Fig. 1—AATCC Wrinkle Tester. face side of the specimen on the outside
2.1 A test specimen is wrinkled under and clamp it in position using the steel
standard atmospheric conditions in a spring and clamp provided. Arrange the
standard wrinkling device under a prede- ends of the specimen so that they are op-
termined load for a prescribed period of 5.2 AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle
Recovery Replicas (see Fig. 2 and 11.3). posite the opening in the spring clamp.
time. The specimen is then reconditioned 7.4 Wrap the opposite long edge of the
in the standard atmosphere for textile 5.3 Standard conditions room at 21 ± specimen around the bottom flange and
testing and evaluated for appearance by 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH. clamp as described above.
comparison with 3-dimensional reference 5.4 Clothes hangers with clips. 7.5 Adjust the specimen by pulling on
standards. 5.5 A lighting and evaluation area in a its bottom edge, so that it lies smooth
darkened room using overhead lighting without sagging between the top and the
3. Terminology arrangement shown in Fig. 3. bottom flanges.
3.1 smoothness appearance, n.—in 5.6 Digital Imaging System (see 11.8). 7.6 Withdraw the locking pin and
fabrics, the visual impression of planarity
of a specimen quantified by comparison
with a set of reference standards.
3.2 wrinkle recovery, n.—that prop-
erty of a fabric which enables it to re-
cover from folding deformations.
4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas.
5. Apparatus and Materials
5.1 AATCC Wrinkle Tester (see Fig. 1,
and 11.1 and 11.2). Fig. 2—AATCC Wrinkle Recovery Replicas.

AATCC Technical Manual/2010 TM 128-2009 203

Copyright © 2009 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
 9. Calculating and Reporting Results
9.1 Average the nine observations
made on each test fabric (three judgments
on each of three specimens).
9.2 Report the average to the nearest
tenth of a rating.

10. Precision and Bias

10.1 Precision. Precision for this test
method has not been established. Until a
precision statement is generated for this
test method, use standard statistical tech-
niques in making any comparisons of test
results for either within-laboratory or
between-laboratory averages.
Fig. 3—Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens. 10.2 Bias. The wrinkle recovery of fab-
rics (appearance method), can be defined
Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Star fluorescent lamps (without baffle or only in terms of a test method. There is
glass). (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or glass). (c) One general type swatch mount, spring no independent method for determining
loaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga.). (d) One ¼ in. plywood mounting board painted to match the true value. As a means of estimating
No. 2 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining. this property, the method has no known
bias.

11. Notes
lower the top flange gently with one hand black or that blackout curtains be mounted
until it comes to rest. on either side of the viewing board to 11.1 The AATCC Wrinkle Tester is pro-
7.7 Immediately place a total of 3500 eliminate the reflective interference. vided for introducing wrinkles in the test
grams weight on the top flange and 8.3 The observer is to stand directly in specimen under controlled conditions. This
record the exact time. front of the specimen 4 ft away from the apparatus is based on a development of
7.8 After 20 min, remove the weights, ENKA/AKU Research. The apparatus is ob-
board. It has been found that normal vari- tainable from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
remove the springs and clamps, raise the ations in the height of the observer above Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 919/
top flange and gently remove the speci- and below the arbitrary 5-ft eye level 549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail: orders@
men from the tester so as not to distort have no significant effect on the rating aatcc.org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
any induced wrinkles (see 11.5). given. 11.2 All three weights (500, 1000 and 2000
7.9 With a minimum of handling, place 8.4 Assign the number of the replica g) provided with this tester are used in the test.
the shorter edge (15 cm) (6 in.) under the which most nearly matches the appear- The top flange assembly weighs 500 g which
clips on the clothes hanger and allow the ance of the test specimens. is 200 g heavier than that of the AKU Wrinkle
specimen to hang vertically in the long Tester. The AKU Wrinkle Tester may be used
8.4.1 A No. 5 rating is equivalent to the for this test by adding 200 g to the top flange.
direction. WR-5 Replica and represents the smooth- 11.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
7.10 After 24 h in the standard atmo- est appearance and best retention of origi- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709;
sphere gently remove the hanger with the nal appearance, while a No. 1 rating is tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail:
specimen to the evaluation site (see 11.6). equivalent to the WR-1 Replica and rep- orders@aatcc.org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
resents the poorest appearance and poor- 11.4 Cut specimens from a wrinkle-free
8. Evaluation est retention of original appearance (see area of the fabrics. If any wrinkles are un-
Table I). avoidably present in the test specimens, press
8.1 Three trained observers should rate each lightly with a steam iron before condi-
8.5 Similarly, the observer indepen- tioning.
each test specimen independently (see
dently rates each of the other two test 11.5 If the test has been run properly, diag-
11.7).
specimens. The other two observers pro- onal wrinkles should run through the center
8.2 Mount the test specimen on the ceed in the same manner assigning rat- portion of the specimen.
viewing board as illustrated in Fig. 3, ings independently. 11.6 Evaluation area should also be main-
with the warp in vertical direction. Place tained at 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F) and 65 ± 2% RH.
three-dimensional plastic replicas on 8.6 A digital imaging system may be
used (see 11.8). 11.7 Since previous tests have proven that
each side of the test specimen to facilitate specimens do change in appearance during the
comparative rating. first few hours, it is important that accurate
8.2.1 The overhead fluorescent light times be observed and that a minimum time
should be the only light source for the elapses while the three observers are evaluat-
viewing board, and all other lights in the Table I—Fabric Smoothness Ratings ing the samples. Because of these changing
room should be turned off. conditions, the duration of recovery before
5—an appearance equivalent to the WR-5 Replica rating in this method has been standardized at
8.2.2 It has been the experience of 4—an appearance equivalent to the WR-4 Replica 24 h.
many observers that light reflected from 3—an appearance equivalent to the WR-3 Replica 11.8 A digital imaging system may be used
the side walls near the viewing board can 2—an appearance equivalent to the WR-2 Replica in place of the visual replicas if it has been
interfere with the rating results. It is rec- 1—an appearance equivalent to or worse than the established by the user that its accuracy is
ommended that the side walls be painted WR-1 Replica equivalent.

204 TM 128-2009 AATCC Technical Manual/2010

Copyright © 2009 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists