Whisky Advocate - Summer 2020

114 WHISKIES
RATED!
Cocktails Made Simple

5 WHISKY CLASSICS TO MIX AT HOME
Scotland’s Newest Distilleries • Made in America Single Malt

VOLUME 29, NUMBER 2 SUMMER 2020
54
F EAT UR ES
54 Cocktails at Home 68 Fresh Faces by Jonny McCormick

Master five of the all-time great whisky cocktails with Single malt scotch enjoys a long and storied history,
the help of bartender tips to make every drink your best. but a recent surge of newcomers is breathing new
With these helpful variations and creative solutions, life into the world’s greatest whisky nation.
nothing can stand between you and a refreshing drink.
56 Highball by Zak Kostro 76 The American Way by Zak Kostro
It’s not just for Scotland anymore. These American
60 Mint Julep by Susannah Skiver Barton
craft distillers are determined to put single
62 Old Fashioned by Sam Stone malt whiskey on the New World map.
ISTOCK
64 Manhattan by Jeffery Lindenmuth

66 Whiskey Sour by Ted Simmons Cover photograph by Jody Horton
DE PART MEN T S
18
11 From the Publisher

by Marvin R. Shanken
13 Dear Whisky Advocate

Letters to the editor
17 Distillations
PLAN for a Pittsburgh adventure,
DELIVER a pizza and whisky
pairing, CONNECT with virtual
tastings, INDULGE in cherry whiskey,
SANITIZE with help from distillers,
PREPARE for rare Japanese whisky,
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DEVEN BROWN; ISTOCK / WHISKY ADVOCATE; ISTOCK; WILL KIRK / JOHNS HOPKINS UNIVERSITY
SUPPLY your cocktails with spice.
38 34
47 Straight Talk
by Charles K. Cowdery
Craft distilling is the movement
that has become an industry,
while staying on a human scale.
48 Head, Heart & Tales

by Jonny McCormick
Whisky is conducive to private
moments—relishing quietness,
stillness, and composure.
51 The Thinking Drinker

51 by Stephen Beaumont
The right background music
can make or break your chosen
whisky. Bring on the bagpipes!
83 Buying Guide
Reviews of the latest whisky releases
95 I’m a Whisky Advocate

Photos from our readers
96 A Lighter Dram
by Terry Sullivan
America’s bibulous expert, Mr.
Whiskey, serves full-strength advice
in response to reader questions.
TH E WH I S KY ADV OCAT E
We’re All in This Together
O
ne of our favorite things Bars and restaurants have been especially digital team is inviting whisky lovers to stay
about whisky is enjoying it hard-hit. With donations from both major engaged and join the conversation from
with like-minded friends, spirits companies and individuals, the United home. Regular Friday afternoon Instagram
and, due to the current pan- States Bartenders’ Guild has already distrib- Live chats feature stars of the whisky world,
demic, that simple pleasure uted more than $2 million in relief to the men like Chris Morris of Woodford Reserve and
has largely disappeared. Like many of you, and women who once served our whisky Stephanie Macleod of Dewar’s. Follow us
much of the Whisky Advocate magazine staff with a smile. Bars will likely be among the on Instagram to see who shows up next. Or,
has been in isolation, working from home last businesses to reopen, but you can satisfy join the hundreds of readers engaging using
since our New York offices closed in mid- your desire for a cold cocktail even while #tastewithspace, a way to share photos of the
March. As we reflect on life before COVID-19, sheltering in place. In this issue, we examine whiskies you are enjoying while in isolation.
we realize just how fortunate we were. classic whisky cocktails for home mixing Much has changed, but some things have
However, the resilience and camaraderie (page 54). These are timeless recipes, but our not. Now more than ever, whisky remains a
of the entire whisky community has proved bartending pros capture the moment with way to connect, to find common ground, and
an inspiration. Numerous distilleries have resourcefulness and creativity, ensuring you to celebrate the good things in life. I wish for
turned their production of ethanol into hand can construct the best possible cocktail. you to keep safe and well.
sanitizer rather than beverages to help in the Like so many of you, we are carrying Sincerely,
fight against the spread of COVID-19 (see on and looking forward to a future where
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY
page 38). At the same, many of these distill- we reconnect in person. We hope you’ll
ers are themselves suffering due to shuttered join us in the fall for WhiskyFest New
tasting rooms and flagging sales. An April York on October 29, and the inaugural Big
survey of craft distillers from the Distilled Smoke Meets WhiskyFest on October 31,
Spirits Council of the United States and in Hollywood, Florida, featuring plenty of
American Distilling Institute reported 43% of whisky and some superb cigars. Marvin R. Shanken
staff have been furloughed or laid off. Until we can resume clinking glasses, our Editor & Publisher
WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 11

Dear Whisky Advocate...
FANS OF THE CLUB ISSUE

Dear Whisky Advocate,
It wasn’t until I began reading the recent
Whisky Advocate “Start Your Own Tasting
Club” [issue] that I realized it wasn’t just
another “regular” issue. Instead, it was one of
the most informative and educational
publications I have ever read!
As a relatively recent discoverer of brown
spirits, it was the perfect primer to the pro-
cess of making the whisky we love, a broad
brush to the various ingredients, mashbills,
bottlings and proofs, and countries of origin
of various whiskies, as well as an excellent
lifestyle guide to finding better and more
creative ways to appreciate it.
I thoroughly enjoy both Whisky Advocate
and Cigar Aficionado. I fly regularly for work,
and hold on to these magazines for long leadership prospects but don’t want to loan wish you had. If enough people would do this,
transcontinental legs, so I can enjoy them out my own copy. Any chance of getting a few the market for flipping would flip.
with no interruptions! more copies to pass around to the charter John Cowgill
I’m already looking forward to the next one! members? Our Barnes and Noble is closed
Sincerely, and no telling when it will reopen or if that Salutations, John!
Matt Harper edition will be available when it does. We don’t deny anyone the right to spend their
Bob Faucett money as they wish. But your wisdom rings
Greetings, Matt. true—there is no shortage of very fine whisky at
Thank you for the very kind words and Hello, Bob! fair prices for those of us who choose to enjoy it!
welcome to the wonderful world of whisky. We’re glad you are inspired to start a whisky
We’re delighted to accompany you, wherever club and by now you should have received the Dear Whisky Advocate,
your journey may lead. copies of the issue for your friends. Also, see Thanks for Sean Evans’ article [Flipping
page 34, where we check in on a few whisky Whiskey, Spring 2020] on how crazy the
Dear Whisky Advocate, clubs to find out how they’re tasting together market has become for us whiskey drinkers. It
Bob Faucett here from The Villages, Florida. during COVID-19. is so frustrating to be a person who has
Huge whiskey fan and long-time subscriber enjoyed finding new discoveries over the
of Whisky Advocate. I have finally waded COVER STORY STRIKES A CHORD years only to see it become a thing of the past
through your Tasting Club special edition Dear Whisky Advocate, as those “rare” brands are increasingly
cover to cover. Great work! I thought the article about “flipping whiskey” unavailable to the general public. Between
In case you don’t know, The Villages in Cen- was very good. But it does prove a point of the your whiskey ratings and our desire to try
tral Florida is the largest adult community in old adage of a fool and his money. I enjoy good them, we seem to have created a monster.
the world, currently housing 135,000 of us and whiskey, and have been fortunate enough to A bottle of Weller 12 year [old] that I pur-
growing rapidly. I had been thinking of organiz- have tasted some of the coveted listings. chased for $45 two years ago is now selling
ing a whiskey club, so your special edition was a However, anyone who is of proper age can behind a locked cabinet for $180, and the
perfect encouragement. While the current purchase very good whiskeys for a very fair Special Reserve that I picked up for $27 in
Coronavirus has put a crimp on everything, I price, every day, almost everywhere. So unless Georgia last summer is in the same locked
have put out some feelers to possible co-orga- you care more about impressing others [with] cabinet for $80! And while I enjoy Blanton’s
nizers and have some very positive feedback to what you have [rather] than just having a good at $60/bottle, it is not something that I am
pursue when the world returns to normal. whiskey, just go purchase a good whiskey at going to purchase at $130/bottle.
In the meantime, I would like to share my the local liquor outlet. Then enjoy it in lieu of I totally understand the [thrill of the] “hunt”
Tasting Club edition with some of the fretting over what might have been, or you for rare whiskeys. I was always pleased to find

some hidden gem among the shelves at my
local liquor purveyor. Unfortunately, the flip-
pers have destroyed that experience for many
of us, as the brands either no longer make it to
the shelf or are too pricy to make it enjoyable,
A publication of M. Shanken Communications, Inc. (the prices I shared above are my former liquor
825 Eighth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 store’s, as they have become too greedy for me).
vol. 29, no. 2 As my sons have started to explore whiskeys,
I am now directing them to the ones that are
Editor & Publisher Marvin R. Shanken available at decent prices (such as Larceny).
Executive Editor Jeffery Lindenmuth And if they want to try something special, we
Managing Editor Melanie Schwenk will hit the whiskey bars (once this COVID-19
Art Director John Thompson event is over). That said, I have started to hide
Vice President, WhiskyFest Events Joan McGinley my more rare bottles in the back of my bar as I
Senior Whisky Specialist & Digital Editor Susannah Skiver Barton don’t know if or when I will replace them.
Contributing Editor Jonny McCormick Maybe this will all blow over like the
Digital Assistant Editor/Tasting Coordinator Ted Simmons
Beanie Baby craze. Wishful thinking, but
Assistant Editor Zak Kostro
until distilleries can match demand, this will
Assistant Tasting Coordinator/Editorial Assistant Sam Stone
Photo Editor Casey Oto be the way for some time.
Imaging Eli Halpern, Lindsay Mitchell Again, great article and thanks for helping
to expose the issues for all parties involved.
Vice President/Advertising Director Michael P. McGoldrick Sincerely,
Advertising, Cigars and Luxury Barry Abrams Joe Schlegel
Corporate Advertising Miriam Morgenstern
Cheryl Lewis Good day, Joe.
Michael DiChiara Thank you for sharing your appreciation for our
Advertising Services Manager Jennifer Arcella cover story. Enjoying good whisky at fair prices
Circulation Director Phylicia Bedoya
and sampling the rare stuff at your favorite
Assistant Circulation Manager Tina Ratwani
whisky bar sounds like a great strategy. Your
Senior Retail Sales Director Jeanne Holly
Office Manager Kathy Fox sons are fortunate to have your fatherly advice!
Copy Editor Sam Komlenic
Dear Whisky Advocate,
Vice President, Shanken Creative Group Don Gatterdam I just finished reading Terry Sullivan’s article A
Creative Director, Shanken Creative Group Ken Ferris Lighter Dram in my Spring 2020 edition of
Designer, Shanken Creative Group Eleni Stathakos Whisky Advocate. I read it to my wife while she
cooked breakfast. When I finished, she placed
Mission Statement in front of me a bottle of Hungry Jack pancake
To be the most informative and entertaining drinks publication by promoting syrup and said, “Open the lid.” To my surprise I
the intelligent, responsible, and joyful consumption of the world’s whiskies.
found an emoji stamped into the plastic.
Terry, good luck in embarrassing the cul-
Mailing address
22 S. Second Street, Suite 201, Emmaus, PA 18049 ture to BSF (Before Smiley Face)—it’s every-
(610) 967-1083 where and [takes our] culture too far down
the hieroglyphic road.
mail@whiskyadvocate.com When I was a chaplain resi-
www.whiskyadvocate.com dent in a large teaching hospi-
tal 40 years ago I encountered
M. SHANKEN COMMUNICATIONS, INC. a physician who had a smiley
Chairman Marvin R. Shanken face on his lapel, with a sad
Vice Chairman Michael D. Moaba face under it—he flashed what
Executive Vice President Laura Zandi he felt was needed given the
Senior Advisor to the Chairman Mel Mannion medical moment. I thought
Senior Vice President, Advertising Constance McGilvray
then I could teach him how to
Senior Vice President, Events Lynn Rittenband
smile or cry, but I digress. Back then it was
Chief Financial Officer Steven Gordon
Vice President, Business Development Jessica Shanken radically new to have a sad face. It’s nice to
Vice President, Production Kevin Mulligan know that the “they” people have progressed to
Executive Assistant to the Chairman Sheena Dellanzo dog poop on a beer mug.
Colonel William Ziegler, USAF (Ret)
Questions about your subscription? Call (800) 610-6258 or email whiskyadvocate@mshanken.com
Questions about your retail sales account? Call (800) 344-0763 or email retailsales@mshanken.com Dear Colonel Ziegler, &.
14 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE
DISTILLATIONS
Distillations
LEAD A MORE SPIRITED LIFE
Steel Away to Pittsburgh

Home to the Great Rye Revival 18
Order Pizza, Pair Whisky 24 • One the Set with "Lodge 49" 26
Spicy Whisky Cocktails 32 • Limited-Edition Japanese Whiskies 44
PHOTO CREDIT TK
At Pittsburgh, the Allegheny

River meets the Monongahela,
which shares its name with a
ISTOCK
historic style of rye whiskey.
WHISKY
WHISKYADVOCATE
WHISKY
ADVOCATESUMMER
ADVOCATE
SPRING 2020
FALL2020
2019 17
48 HOURS
Andy Warhol Museum
Kimpton Hotel Monaco
Pouring It On in Pittsburgh
At the confluence of whiskey and history
N Day One
o city in the country has including the grand dames Omni William
deeper roots in whiskey Penn, Renaissance Pittsburgh, and Kimp-
history than Pittsburgh. It ton Hotel Monaco, all downtown. Breakfast, anyone? Head to the Strip Dis-
TOP LEFT: ADAM MILLIRON; TOP RIGHT: THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION FOR THE VISUAL ARTS, INC.
was virtually the epicenter Since downtown is laid out on a triangle, trict, named for the long, thin strip of land
of the Whiskey Rebellion in traffic intersections are less than traditional between the Allegheny River and the hillside.
1794, when farmer-distillers and parking in some areas is at a premium, so Once the rail terminal for supplying the city
raised arms against federal agents. The area opt for the “T,” Pittsburgh’s light rail system. with produce, the Strip’s transformation from
gave rise to our nation's first named whiskey There is no fare between downtown stations, industrial to retail has made it one of Pitts-
style: Monongahela rye. It was famous long and charges are reasonable to the southern burgh’s top destinations.
before Kentucky bourbon, and dominated the suburbs. There’s also great bus service with DeLuca’s Diner has been here long enough
national market until after the Civil War. citywide access. to witness that transformation and keeps
Pittsburgh's history is also entwined with the
industrialization of the U.S., and it embraces
its hard-working reputation decades after the
decline of the steel industry. Once a shot-and-
a-beer town, the Steel City’s move into the 21st
century has seen tremendous improvements in
everything from air and water quality to food,
drink, and entertainment. This heritage makes
the city more a rye and bourbon mecca than a
haven for other styles, like scotch.
Nothing quite prepares you for your first
glimpse of this city. After a rolling drive from
the airport and emerging from the Fort Pitt
tunnel, the dramatic skyline before you is
reminiscent of the Emerald City of Oz. De-
fined by the confluence of the Allegheny and
Monongahela Rivers forming the Ohio, it’s
breathtakingly beautiful, and Pittsburghers
are approachable, friendly, and genuine.
Pittsburgh offers a number of great hotels, Bridges and Bourbon

DISTILLATIONS
Kingfly Spirits
busy serving breakfast Once you’ve made a pur- refermenting with fruit and vegetable juices
and lunch daily. You know chase, stroll up the street resulting in inventive brews. Next, swing by
you’re in “the 'Burgh” to Leaf & Bean, a BYOB- Maggie’s Farm. There's no whiskey here, but
when you have kielbasa friendly cigar lounge and the rums are exceptional and diverse. Try an
with your eggs! Also here coffee shop. It’s a great amazing cocktail in the lounge overlooking the
is Pamela’s Diner, a local Butcher and the Rye place to relax, and there’s distillery’s Spanish-made pot stills.
chain famous for its crepe- often live music mingling Visit the Heinz History Center, located on
style pancakes and Lyonnaise potatoes. with the aroma of coffee and cigar smoke. the Strip, offering a compelling look at the his-
The Strip is Pittsburgh craft distilling’s Next, head down Smallman Street to King- tory of Western Pennsylvania and its contribu-
beating heart, so get started at Wigle Whis- fly Spirits, the newest distillery in town, lo- tions to the world. Then take a stroll through
key, the first distillery in the city since cated in a beautifully restored old warehouse. scenic Point State Park, where the rivers
Prohibition. Named for whiskey rebel Philip The only whiskey currently offered is a blend converge, and dip your toes into all three at
Wigle, it has a wide selection of spirits, some made from sourced bourbon. Its own bourbon once. Another must-visit is Phipps Conser-
organic, including rye and bourbon, offered will be ready after 5 years in cask, while rye is vatory and Botanical Gardens, a 14-room
up in a contemporary tasting room. Try the in the planning stage. The cocktails here are glasshouse and 23 distinct gardens on 15 acres.
Kilted Rye, finished in Laphroaig quarter top-notch. The most whiskey-focused distillery is in
casks. Tours are available on Saturdays by The Strip offers some of the best food in nearby Washington, about a half-hour south of
TOP: DEVEN BROWN; INSET: LAURA PETRILLA
reservation. This is also the western terminus the city. Choose from any of the many restau- the city and the very hub of activity during the
of the Whiskey Rebellion Trail that extends rants for lunch: Iron Born Pizza makes great Rebellion, where Mingo Creek Craft Distill-
to Philadelphia and Washington, D.C. Detroit-style pizza, while Wholey’s fries the ers makes Liberty Pole whiskeys. Its rye may
Pennsylvania is a control state, so one liquor city’s favorite fish sandwich. Primanti Bros. be the best local representation of the modern
store is much like another, but Pennsylvania created the much-imitated “Pittsburgh” Monongahela style, and the peated bourbon is
Libations has smashed that model to bits. The sandwich—the one with fries inside. Sit at delicious. Tours are offered by reservation—
state’s craft distillers are allowed to operate up the counter and have an iconic Iron City beer with a focus on the history of the Rebellion—
to three satellite locations, and this store repre- with your sandwich, but order it like a local: and include a cocktail and a tasting flight.
sents multiple distilleries in a single storefront. “I’ll have an 'arn.” Once back in the city, head across the Al-
You can taste before you buy (a concept foreign Cinderlands Beer Co. is new to the Strip legheny on one of the many bridges to the
in Pennsylvania’s “state stores”) from a selec- but has developed a devoted following for North Side, where the Pirates play baseball at
tion of over 20 craft brands. its creative approach to brewing, including PNC Park, one of the most beautiful ball-

DISTILLATIONS
parks in the country. This area also has nu-

merous world-class attractions: the National
Aviary, the largest in North America; the
Mattress Factory, a pioneer of site-specific
installation art; and the Andy Warhol
Museum. (Andy was a 'Burgh native.) Do
not miss Bicycle Heaven, the world’s largest
bicycle museum and store, with a mind-
blowing 4,000-plus bikes on display.
Pittsburgh’s first craft brewer, Penn Brew-
ery, is still on the North Side after over 30
years, offering authentic German food and
stellar beers, including Kaiser Pils, one of the
best pilsners anywhere (including Germany)
and the seasonal German chocolate cake stout,
served with a coconut-dipped rim.
For dinner, head back downtown for more
whiskey-themed dining options. Butcher
and the Rye has the best selection in town—
nearly 700 bottles, including more than 25
Wigle Whiskey Willett Single Barrel whiskeys and some from
silent distilleries—two bars, great cocktails,
and a whiskey-friendly menu. Bridges and
Bourbon is a newcomer to the downtown
Cultural District, but has quickly earned a
reputation for its whiskey selection, high-end
cocktails, and small plates. For starters, try
the grilled cheese and tomato bisque, then
bourbon chocolate chip cookies for dessert.
At Spirits & Tales in nearby Oakland (about
a 10-minute drive from the Strip District),
which was recently named best hotel bar
in the city, you can enjoy a Toki Highball
dispensed from an official Suntory-branded
machine, with fresh East or West Coast oys-
ters on the half-shell to get things started.
For a nightcap, visit Speakeasy at the Omni
William Penn. The hotel was built just before
Duquesne Incline Maggie's Farm Prohibition by industrialist Henry Clay Frick,
the grandson of Abraham Overholt and one
of the owners of his family’s flagship distill-
ery. Frick included this clandestine space in
the hotel’s design to continue serving his Old
Overholt rye to discerning patrons. Choose
from the Collins menu, or try a pour of Old
CENTER LEFT: ISTOCK; BOTTOM: PHIL JOHNSON

Overholt or Booker’s 25 year old.
Day Two
Take the T across the Monongahela to Station
Square, a shopping and dining destination on
the South Side, where the river was once lined
with steel mills, with their requisite bars run-
ning up and down East Carson Street. Carson
is Pittsburgh’s equivalent to Bourbon Street
in New Orleans, with multiple watering holes
and quirky shops on every block. Breakfast
Phipps Conservatory today is at Waffles INCaffeinated, a casual,

brightly colored joint where you can top your
waffle of choice with bourbon syrup.
Piper’s Pub is your best option for scotch
whisky, with its British vibe and Premier
League soccer on the telly, while Acacia
mixes up elaborate cocktails in a speakeasy-
style setting. There are also any number of
local dives waiting to be explored.
Make it a point to seek out The Pretzel
Shop, hidden along East Carson, where they
have been making hand-twisted, hearth-
baked pretzels since 1927. Get the pepperoni-
mozzarella pretzel or a chicken-jalapeño pret-
zel sandwich. Great cheap lunch, cash only.
Then take the dramatic ride up Mount
Washington on the Duquesne Incline. Pitts-
burgh once had 17 passenger funiculars, and Pennsylvania Libations
two remain. Check out aptly named Grand-
view Avenue for its stores, restaurants, and an
Distilleries/Breweries Waffles INCaffeinated 2517 E. Carson St.;
unbelievable view of the city below. It’s about
Cinderlands Beer Co. 2601 Smallman St.; wafflesincaffeinated.com
a mile between the incline stations, so you can
cinderlands.com Wholey’s 1711 Penn Ave.; wholey.com
Kingfly Spirits 2613 Smallman St.; Hotels
kingflyspirits.com Kimpton Hotel Monaco 620 William Penn Pl.;
Maggie’s Farm 3212A Smallman St.; monaco-pittsburgh.com
maggiesfarmrum.com Omni William Penn 530 William Penn Pl.;
Mingo Creek Craft Distillers 68 W. Maiden omnihotels.com
St., Washington, Pa.; libertypolespirits.com Renaissance Pittsburgh 107 6th St.;
Penn Brewery 800 Vinial St.; pennbrew.com marriott.com
Wigle Whiskey 2401 Smallman St.; Attractions
wiglewhiskey.com Andy Warhol Museum 117 Sandusky St.;
Bars/Restaurants warhol.org
Acacia 2108 E. Carson St.; acaciacocktails.com Bicycle Heaven 1800 Preble Av.;
bicycleheaven.com
Bridges & Bourbon 930 Penn Ave.;
Duquesne Incline 1197 W. Carson St.;
bridgesandbourbonpgh.com
duquesneincline.org
Butcher and the Rye 212 6th St.;
Speakeasy Heinz History Center 1212 Smallman. St.;
butcherandtherye.com
heinzhistorycenter.org
DeLuca’s Diner 2015 Penn Ave.;
walk or rideshare your way across. There are Leaf & Bean 2200 Penn Ave.; leafandbean.com
delucasdiner.com
plenty of shops and drinks along the way. Mattress Factory 500 Sampsonia Way;
Grandview Saloon and Coal Hill Steakhouse
Linger and have dinner while you’re up mattress.org
1212 Grandview Ave.; thegrandviewsaloon.com
here, and enjoy the view; there’s a number of Monongahela Incline 8 Grandview Ave.;
fine-dining contenders. Monterey Bay Fish Iron Born Pizza 1806 Smallman St.; monongahelaincline.com
Grotto offers a killer blackened shrimp and ironbornpizza.com
National Aviary 700 Arch St. aviary.org
scallop étouffée over cheddar grits; pair it with LeMont 1114 Grandview Ave.;
Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens
a Black Walnut Old Fashioned. Enjoy wagyu lemontpittsburgh.com
1 Schenley Dr.; phipps.conservatory.org
beef on the deck at Grandview Saloon and Monterey Bay Fish Grotto 1411 Grandview
PNC Park 115 Federal St.;
Coal Hill Steakhouse or delicious, crispy- Ave.; montereybayfishgrotto.com
mlb.com/pirates/ballpark
roasted raspberry duck at LeMont. Both offer Pamela’s Diner 60 21st St.; pamelasdiner.com
Point State Park 601 Commonwealth Pl.;
full bar service. Then catch the Monongahela Piper’s Pub 1828 E. Carson St.; piperspub.com dcnr.pa.gov
Incline back down for the best incline view of
The Pretzel Shop 2316 E. Carson St.; Station Square 100 W. Station Square Dr.;
town, and rideshare back to your hotel.
thepretzelshop.net stationsquare.com
After two days of fun, food, and fantastic
dining and drinking in one of the country’s Primanti Bros. 46 18th St.; primantibros.com Whiskey Rebellion Trail
prettiest and friendliest places, Pittsburgh Speakeasy 530 William Penn Pl.; whiskeyrebelliontrail.com
knows “yinz’ll” be back. omnihotels.com Shop
—Sam Komlenic, with additional research by Spirits & Tales 5130 Bigelow Blvd.; Pennsylvania Libations 2103 Penn Ave.;
Aaron Hajduk of Pittsburgh Whiskey Friends spiritsandtales.com pennsylvanialibations.com

DISTILLATIONS
INFORMER
The Mighty AVERAGE
White Oak HEIGHT

80-150
feet
hisky isn’t whisky
without the barrel it’s
aged in. Whether it’s the
vanilla and caramel notes of bour-
bon, or the rich, fruity influences of
a sherry finishing cask, many classic WHITE OAK FACTS
whisky flavors can be attributed to
Can live for
the barrel—and more often than not, centuries
it's made out of white oak. Since Prefers slightly
barrels curve and trees are straight, acidic to neutral soil
not all wood types are equal when Grows at a slow to
it comes to barrel-making. White medium rate
oak triumphs because of its density Prefers full sun or
and strength—those elements make AVERAGE partial shade
TRUNK
it able to stand up to being bent and DIAMETER Bark is light gray
curved into staves, while still main-
taining its structural integrity. Here,
3-5 feet
Some white oaks can
we break down some of the key met-
produce 2,000 to 7,000
rics of this crucial whisky resource.
acorns per year
—Sam Stone
White Oak's Range American

white oaks
in the United States clock in with
12 to 24 inches
of growth per
About 33% year
of America's
hardwood
resource is
white oak
White oak is often known as “stave oak”

because of its frequent use in barrels
Famous White Oaks

ILLUSTRATION: DAVE STEVENSON
Mercer Oak Basking Ridge Mingo Oak Wye Oak

New Jersey Presbyterian West Virginia Maryland
300 years old
Church White Oak 600 years old 460 years old
New Jersey
Height unknown 145 feet tall 96 feet tall
600 years old
Named for American 100 feet tall Was at one point the Was the state tree
Revolution general largest living white of Maryland until its
Hugh Mercer. George Washington oak. death.
Died in 2000 apparently picnicked Died in 1938 Died in 2002
under the tree.
Died in 2017

DISTILLATIONS
WHISKY WITH...
within New York pizza alone,” he says.

The primary point of differentiation, Agos-
tino maintains, is the crust, which can vary
widely depending on its hydration, proofing,
and weight. After that, there are obviously
the toppings to consider—which Agostino
says can easily cross over between styles—
and then the baking temperature, which can
range from 500º F for New York pizza to
800º F for Neapolitan.
When deciding on a whisky to sip along-
side your slice, then, it makes sense to begin
with the crust and choose heftier, fuller
whiskies for thick-crust pies and lighter,
more delicate ones for thin crusts. So, for
the most elemental of pizzas, the thin crust,
sauce-basil-and-cheese Margherita, a light
Japanese blend, triple-distilled Irish, or
Whisky and a Slice single grain scotch is an ideal partner.

Move to a more imposing crust and you’ll
want a much bigger spirit, such as a full-
P izza and beer? Of course, we’ve

known that works since our college
days. Pizza and wine? Naturally, it’s
Libretto, which in 2009 became the first res-
taurant in Canada accredited as a producer of
"true Neapolitan pizza" by the Associazione
bodied bourbon. For deep-dish or Sicilian
pizza, mix it up with a Manhattan, with the
vermouth balancing the sweetness and acid-
TOP: ELEONORA GALLI / GETTY; BOTTOM PIZZAS LEFT TO RIGHT: ISTOCK; MINYOUNG SON / EYEEM / GETTY; ISTOCK
what the Italians do, and they did invent Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN). ity of all that tomato sauce.
pizza after all. Pizza and whisky? Um, really? While you might expect some snobbish- In between, of course, we have the take-
Pairing pizza with single malt, bourbon, ness from the maker of such strictly regu- out and delivery pies from independently
Irish, Canadian, or Japanese whisky might lated pizza—the VPN certification process owned or chain pizzerias. For these, with
not be anything you or I would consider, but takes days and covers everything from how their medium-thick crusts, look at the pizza
one meal at pizzeria Dry Milano in Italy’s the dough is made to oven construction and as a whole and take a contrasting approach to
fashion capital will change your mind. For temperature, and, of course, flavor—Agostino pairing whisky: the more complicated the top-
in that acclaimed restaurant, excellent pizza says that he is first and foremost a pizza lover. pings, the simpler the spirit. So for a standard
is served alongside not just a superlative “I see pizza as a blank canvas,” he says, supreme pizza, a lighter Canadian or Irish
cocktail menu, but also an impressive list of adding that so long as tradition is respected, whiskey, perhaps with a little ice or water,
spirits, with a strong emphasis on whisky. there is no reason not to tweak it any way makes a refreshing, palate-restoring compan-
Before turning to the pairings, however, you see fit. Noting that he personally grew ion. Similarly, although with a bit of a twist, a
it makes sense to look first at the dish itself, up on Sicilian pizza—thicker crust and ample dry, complex, and not-too-smoky single malt
since pizza can and often is interpreted quite sauce, usually rectangular, he sees nothing serves as the ideal foil to the diverse, salty, and
differently in Naples, New York, Chicago and wrong with Detroit pizza—thick and crispy intense flavors of a meat-topped pizza, and
the democratic republic of Pizza Hut. To help crust with cheese to the edge—Chicago for a spicy diavola, reach for a straight rye to
sort it all out, I turned to Rocco Agostino, ex- deep-dish pizza, or New York style pizza. match and balance the heat.
ecutive chef and partner in Toronto’s Pizzeria “There are probably two or three variations —Stephen Beaumont
Deep-Dish Sausage Pizza Margherita Napoletana White Pizza ai Funghi with

with a Woodford Reserve with Toki Japanese Springbank 10 year old
Manhattan Blended The earthiness of mushrooms
The combination of rich A meeting of equals: pure (funghi) unencumbered by
bourbon and sweet vermouth pizza with a delicate whisky of tomato sauce blends beautifully
is bold enough to handle surprising complexity. with smoke and nutty caramel.
sauce, sausage, and crust.

ICON
experience that requires being in the same

space and just having that immediacy,”
Kramer says. “All the stuff you sort of take for
granted, you suddenly realize how important
it is now, but it’s been taken away.” Kramer,
who occasionally sang and played guitar on
the show, cancelled plans to host a whisky-
fueled jam session for his birthday in light
of recent developments. “And suddenly you
can’t really call your friends up and go for a
happy-hour drink anymore.”
But that doesn’t mean he won’t enjoy a
birthday whisky all the same. Kramer’s true
appreciation for the spirit dates back to a
guest spot he did on the 1993 show "Johnny
Bago." He and some fellow cast members,
playing a trio of Irish brothers, had a bet
that whoever messed up their lines the most
Kramer (far right) and fellow cast had to bring in a bottle of booze on the final
members laugh it up on "Lodge day of shooting. His friend Les Lannom lost
49," which is streaming on Hulu.
the bet and brought a bottle of Powers Irish
whiskey to the set. At the time, Kramer con-
sidered himself a bourbon guy.
Eric Allan Kramer “I went, ‘Wow, this is really nice. I’ve never
had Irish whiskey before.’ He goes, ‘Well, if
you like that, you’re going to love the single
Walks Into a Bar... malts I have over at my place.’” Lannom, a

member of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society,
invited Kramer to a tasting event where he
The "Lodge 49" actor on his favorite whiskies was introduced to Macallan. “As soon as I
tasted that I was like, ‘I think I’ve just found
T he tavern on “Lodge 49” had

all the makings of a great TV
bar; a colorful cast of characters
filled the Southern California
space each week, brought together by a
shared sense of community. The patrons of
the fictional, members-only lodge, otherwise
that inhabited it, it shares DNA with both. “It
was one of those shows that just connected to
who we are as a people, as a community, and
just a society trying to figure itself out,” Kram-
er says of the show, whose
full series is now streaming
on Hulu. “It had its heart.”
ICON INSIDER
my drink.’”
Kramer has been drinking single malt
scotch ever since. “I quickly discovered that I
like the peatier stuff,” he says, branching out
to Laphroaig and Caol Ila
before discovering Ardbeg
Corryvreckan as his go-to.
known as the Ancient and Benevolent Order It’s a particularly strange WHO Eric Allan Kramer, actor “I’ve got bottles of it now
of the Lynx, would convene for a cold pour time to be chatting with FAVORITE STYLE in my cabinet,” he says.
and a good story, escaping the outside stress Kramer about “Lodge 49,” Single malt scotch “Ardbeg and I have been
of dead-end work, faltering relationships, and bars, and whisky, as the GO-TO WHISKY Ardbeg friends since L.A. went on
uncertain fortunes. country enters the early Corryvreckan lockdown.”
“The first time we all walked into that stages of self-isolation amid SEEN IN “Lodge 49,” “Robin As others are currently
space [on set], it was like that spot had the COVID-19 outbreak. It’s Hood: Men in Tights,” “True self-isolating, there is
existed for a hundred years,” says Eric Allan a time when TV shows with Romance,” “The Hughleys,” a chance that they will
Kramer, who played Scott in the show’s two- bars are the closest we can and “Good Luck Charlie” discover “Lodge 49” for
season run on AMC. “I mean, just the detail safely come to experiencing FAVORITE L.A. BARS Oyster the first time, finding a
and the weathering and it already felt like them. “Lodge 49” made its House, White Harte, MacLeod surrogate for their own
there were generations of Lynx before you mark examining the human Ale Brewing Co. bar experiences. “It’s just a
who had sat at that bar, shared their stories, condition, coping mecha- place that feels like home,”
bought rounds of drinks.” nisms, and existential quandaries, and it’s Kramer says of the Lodge’s tavern and all
“Lodge 49” was cancelled in October of that quality that brought together its charac- communal drinking spaces. “It’s a place that
2019, meaning it won’t have the longevity of ters, fans, and cast, making it a particularly gives people just a real sense of comfort and
“Cheers” or “It’s Always Sunny in Philadel- soothing watch in this moment. coming together.”
phia,” but through the tavern and the people “There is something about the human —Ted Simmons

DISTILLATIONS
GEAR
Mobile Service
Place your whisky collection on wheels
I nvented around 3500 B.C., the wheel helps to make the world go round. But it
wasn't until the emergence of the exotic ritual of tea drinking arrived in 17th-
century England that rolling beverage service became popular. The appeal of
moving the party anywhere throughout the home, then neatly locking expensive tea
away for safekeeping applies equally to whisky. When you're ready to entertain at
BARTE ND ER 'S B UDDY
Combine 9 The Wheater starts at $4,000
home, the best advice is to simply stock up on whisky and roll with it. Plenty of storage for glassware and tools along with a
motorized lift-top to literally raise your bar. combine9.com
SAV IN G SPAC E M OD ER N H EI RLOOM SI ZE IT UP

Crate and Barrel Noir Round $600 Roman and Williams Guild Bachelor $9,450 Ballard Designs Sterling Large $999
Ample room on three shelves, yet un- Walnut, brass, and dado-joint construction are de- Slim enough to tuck behind the couch, while offer-
der 20" in diameter. crateandbarrel.com signed to endure for generations. rwguild.com ing 10 square feet of storage. ballarddesigns.com
HO LLYWOOD M OM E NT TAK E IT OUTSI D E DISAPPEARING ACT

Anthropologie Oscarine Lucite $698 Room&Board Crescent $729 Ironton Farmhouse Foldable $195
Lucite, tempered glass shelves, and lacquered brass Recycled consumer plastic is waterproof and Collapses for storage, and trays can be
are durable and easy to clean. anthropologie.com comes in a variety of colors. roomandboard.com used on their own. wayfair.com

DISTILLATIONS
The Heat Is On
Add some spice to your life with these cocktails
Prince of Passion
Created by Mike Bender, assistant general
manager of Seven Grand Denver
This bright, fresh cocktail has a light, toasty,
W
green-spice kick. “The oaked bourbon adds
hen you seek relief from the brutal summer sun, turn up the heat. roasted chocolaty notes that nicely cradle ac-
Drinks that balance spice with refreshment are the perfect way cents from the jalapeños and the poblanos in
to chill out, and since many styles of whisky are inherently spicy, the Ancho Reyes,” Bender says.
they’re perfect to combine with a little caliente flourishes. For ex-
1½ oz. Balcones Pot Still bourbon (or other
ample, “Rye brings some great baking spice and vanilla notes that
four grain or high-rye bourbon)
pair great with chile spice,” says Lenny Heykants, bar manager at
½ oz. lemon juice
El Chingon Mexican Bistro in Denver. And the roasted notes of anything aged in oak match
¾ oz. jalapeño-passion fruit syrup (recipe
well with jalapeños and poblanos, adds Mike Bender, assistant general manager of Seven
below)
Grand Denver. Try these no-sweat recipes and see how cool spice can be.
¼ oz. Ancho Reyes Verde poblano liqueur
1-2 oz. Fever Tree ginger beer (or other
ginger beer)
Rye on Fire Suzie Q Fresno chile pepper and lemon wheel
Created by Lenny Heykants, bar manager Created by Justin Lane Briggs, beverage for garnish
at El Chingon Mexican Bistro in Denver consultant at The Cabinet Bar in New Add bourbon, lemon juice, syrup, and Ancho
Wait for the heat with this drink. “This cock- York City Reyes to a shaker with ice. Shake until chilled.
tail starts citrusy and floral on the palate. The Perfect for those who like spice but not heat, Strain over fresh ice cubes in a double Old
spice creeps in on the back end while still this cocktail uses concentrated ginger syrup Fashioned glass. Top with ginger beer. To
being crisp and refreshing,” Heykants says. to enhance the natural spice in rye whiskey. garnish, cut three slices of pepper and use
toothpicks to place on the lemon wheel. Place
1½ oz. Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond rye (or 1 oz. Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond rye (or
wheel and remaining pepper on the rim of the
other high-proof straight rye) other high-proof rye)
glass.
¾ oz. Ancho Reyes Ancho Chile liqueur ½ oz. Suze liqueur
½ oz. fresh-squeezed lemon juice ½ oz. Apologue Saffron Spiced liqueur Jalapeño-Passion Fruit Syrup
½ oz. cinnamon-agave syrup (recipe below) ½ oz. ginger syrup (recipe below) 9 oz. hot water
1 dropper Bittermens Hellfire ¾ oz. lime juice 1 Tbsp. chopped dehydrated or fresh jalapeño
Habanero shrub ½ tsp. simple syrup 1 cup sugar
1 oz. citrusy and floral IPA (such as 4 Noses 2 oz. club soda 16 oz. passion fruit puree
Brewing Company 'Bout Damn Time IPA) 1 dash Angostura bitters
Bring water to a boil over high heat. Re-
Lemon twist and dried chile de árbol for Candied ginger piece for garnish
move from heat and add jalapeños. Steep for
garnish
Add rye, Suze, Apologue, ginger syrup, lime seven minutes or until desired spice level is
Combine all ingredients except IPA in a cock- juice, and simple syrup to a shaker with ice. achieved. Strain 8 oz. of the jalapeño water
tail shaker with ice. Hard shake for 10 to 15 Shake until chilled. Strain over fresh into another container and add sugar.
seconds. Strain over cubed ice into a Collins ice cubes in a Highball glass. Top Stir well until sugar is dissolved.
glass. Top with IPA. Stir gently and garnish with soda and bitters. Garnish Add passion fruit puree and
THIS PAGE: ISTOCK; OPPOSITE: JEFF HARRIS

with lemon twist and dried chile de árbol. with candied ginger. stir until combined. Keep
refrigerated in a sealed
Cinnamon-Agave Syrup Ginger Syrup
container for up to 12
1 cup agave nectar 1 cup Sugar in the Raw
days.
½ cup water ½ cup ginger juice
—Brittany Risher
1 Mexican cinnamon stick, broken into pieces
Combine sugar and gin-
Combine all ingredients in a small saucepan ger juice in a saucepan
and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce over medium heat. Stir
heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Cool. Strain until sugar is dissolved.
into a sealed container. Keep refrigerated for Remove from heat. Cool.
up to two months. Keep refrigerated in a sealed
container for up to one month.

Choco Chili
Created by Marina Spidla,
bartender at Blind Donkey in
Pasadena, Calif.
Consider this a chocolate Thai-
chile cocktail. “The chocolate
bitters pair nicely with the Thai
chiles, and the smooth artichoke
flavor mellows out the spice,”
Spidla says. The rye helps bal-
ance it all out.
2 oz. High West Double Rye! (or
other straight rye whiskey)
½ oz. Cynar amaro
2 dashes Fee Brothers Aztec
Chocolate bitters
¾ oz. Thai chili simple syrup
(recipe below)
Orange peel for garnish
Stir all ingredients with ice in a
mixing glass until chilled. Strain
over a fresh ice rock in a double
Old Fashioned glass. Express
orange peel over top.
Thai Chili Simple Syrup
5 Thai chiles, diced
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
Combine all ingredients in a
saucepan over high heat and
bring to a boil. Remove from
heat and steep for one hour.
Double strain into a sealed con-
tainer. Keep refrigerated for up
to one month.
PHOTO CREDIT TK
The Rye on Fire, left,

and Choco Chili, right
WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 33

WHISKY CLUBBING
straight from the cask on a live video feed, “the

three of us talked about what we were tasting,
received questions from members about the
barrels, and at the end, I picked two barrels
with input from the members who were fol-
lowing along remotely,” Prince adds.
Women Who Whiskey has 30 chapters
worldwide; the Long Beach, California
branch held its first virtual happy hour last
March using Zoom video conferencing, fol-
lowed by a virtual tasting of solid, accessible
whiskeys—Wild Turkey 101, Rittenhouse rye,
and Paddy blended Irish whiskey. “I know a
lot of people are having trouble finding sup-
plies, and a lot of people aren’t working right
now,” chapter president Stacey Smith-Clark
says, which is why she chose whiskeys that
are both tasty and affordable. “But certainly,
as we move forward, we can all try different
ryes, bourbons, or scotches.”
Meanwhile, Black Bourbon Society’s
thousands of whisky-loving members around
the globe are “busier than ever,” founder and
CEO Samara Rivers says. “We have amped up
our digital [presence] by adding daily live”
content on Zoom, and “Whiskey Weekly,” a
live webinar series that’s featured interviews
with the likes of Smooth Ambler CEO and
master distiller John Little, and spotlighted
Joe Louis Bourbon, named for the former
world heavyweight champion boxer.
Additionally, Black Bourbon Society started
live-recording its “Bonded in Bourbon” podcast
and added a “Mixology Monday” segment fo-
cusing on whisky cocktails. “We stream every-
thing through Zoom, and once the recording is
finished, publish it to our YouTube channel and
IGTV,” Rivers says. Keeping busy has paid off.
“We’ve seen a huge spike in interest,” she adds,
noting that membership jumped to more than
Connecting With Whisky

14,000 as of last March, up from around 10,000
people in late 2019. For Rivers, the member-
ship surge proved a silver lining amid uncertain
times. “My goal since all this started has been
Whisky clubs keep tasting together despite COVID-19 ‘keeping spirits high with spirits,’” she says.
Prince agrees that the global whisky com-
W hile social distancing has helped

slow the spread of COVID-19, it
has put a stop to many activities,
including whisky club meetings. Nevertheless,
clubs continue gathering around whisky from
The barrel pick had been scheduled weeks
before, with plans for Drammers members to
attend in person. When the need for social dis-
tancing arose, Prince decided to carry on with
it solo, assisted by Balcones stillhouse manager
munity’s resilience has given him reason for
hope. And social distancing has, paradoxically,
bolstered camaraderie. “Everyone’s stuck at
home, so it’s a rare opportunity to get to know
each other,” he says. “It shows that whisky is
ISTOCK / WHISKY ADVOCATE
afar. “We did a virtual tour of the Balcones Gabriel RiCharde and Texas state sales man- universal. There aren’t necessarily a ton of
Distillery [on March 17], with members logging ager Alex Elrod, and opening it up to the club things we can all connect on, but people can
in from our chapters all over the world—from via Facebook Live. “Gabe and Alex led the dis- appreciate good whisky in most places around
Mexico City to all across the U.S. to Beirut— cussion, walking me around the warehouse to the world, so there’s not a lot of barriers to
where they helped us do two barrel picks,” the location of the actual barrels,” Prince says. connecting people now. That part’s nice.”
Drammers Club president Charlie Prince says. As he, RiCharde, and Elrod sampled whiskey —Zak Kostro

DISTILLATIONS
DIY Cherry Whiskey

from Steven Grasse, author of
“Colonial Spirits: A Toast to Our
Drunken History”
1 750 ml bottle of whiskey

1 cup sugar
1 lb. sour cherries, stems and
pits removed
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Combine 1 1/2 cups whiskey
and sugar in a 1-quart jar with
a tight-fitting lid. Seal the jar
and shake to combine. Add re-
maining whiskey, cherries, and
vanilla bean. Seal and shake.
Place in a cool dark place for 4
to 6 weeks or up to 6 months.
Strain the mixture through
a fine-mesh sieve lined with
cheesecloth or a coffee filter.
Discard the solids.
Store in a tightly sealed jar or
Cherry on Top bottle and use within 2 months.
W hile flavored whiskeys are often

looked at askance by drinks
connoisseurs, there is nothing
inherently wrong with them. Sure, many
of them on the market are purely that—
CHERRY WHISKEYS TO TRY
Traverse City American Cherry
$30, regional availability
Traverse City Whiskey Co. distiller
DISTILLERY-MADE CHERRIES
Traverse City Premium Cocktail
Cherries
$16, tcwhiskey.com
Chris Fredrickson adds 10 pounds of Northern Michigan Balaton cherries
“flavored,” with artificial ingredients and Montmorency sour cherries, grown in and their natural juice are boiled
sugars that can make them taste cloying his family’s orchard in Traverse City, with Traverse City straight bourbon
and synthetic. That’s not the case in a sub- to the distillery's high-rye bourbon to before jarring. All the alcohol burns off in the
category of flavored whiskeys that is emerg- create an easy-sipping whiskey. cooking process, making the fruits ideal for a
ing—ones infused with real cherries—from an Bourbon Smash or ice cream sundaes.
Grand Traverse Cherry Whiskey
epicenter in Michigan.
$40, local or seelbachs.com Copper & Kings Old Fashioned
“We’re a whiskey company based in the Local Montmorency cherry juice is Cocktail Cherries $12,
cherry capital of the world,” says Chris Fred- blended with Grand Traverse bour- shop.copperandkings.com
rickson, co-founder and distiller at Traverse bon. As merely 3% cherry juice is Bordeaux-style maraschino cher-
City Whiskey Co. in Traverse City. “And that, part of the final blend, just a hint of ries are marinated in Copper &
combined with our family history in cherry cherry flavor appears on the palate, Kings American brandy. These meaty cherries
farming—my father is a third-generation making this stellar for Manhattans are perfect for anything from Old Fashioneds
cherry farmer—made it an obvious first ex- and Boulevardiers. and Manhattans to a dessert topping.
tension for us.” Leopold Bros. Michigan Cherry Old Sugar Madischino Door County
He suspects people enjoy these new cherry Whiskey Cocktail Cherries $12, tasting room only
whiskeys because they’re lower proof (often $33, Colorado only Fresh Wisconsin cherries are cured in Old
in the 35% to 40% ABV range) and extremely It’s not so odd that this Denver- Sugar Distillery’s Cane & Abe Small Barrel
approachable. Many drinkers find them a based distillery has a Michigan-style rum before being cooked and
refreshing option on ice and likewise great cherry whiskey—it initially began jarred with a blend of sugars and
for adding a fun twist to classic cocktails. All operations in Ann Arbor. Montmo- spices. Try them in Wisconsin
the better when these cocktails are garnished rency cherries from Michigan are Brandy Old Fashioneds
TOP: ISTOCK
with spirit-preserved cocktail cherries, which juiced and then blended with Leo- and Whiskey Sours.
pold’s small-batch whiskey before
several distilleries also produce.
resting in used bourbon barrels.
—Aaron Goldfarb

Distillers across the country are producing
hand sanitizer during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Clockwise from top left: Ko‘olau Distillery in
Hawaii; DeKalb, Illinois-based Whiskey Acres;
Baltimore’s Sagamore Spirit; the New Riff Dis-
tilling team delivering hand sanitizer in bulk
to Newport Fire & Rescue. Inset: sanitizers
made by Balcones Distilling in Waco, Texas.
Lending a Hand With Sanitizer

This spring, many distillers produced hand sanitizer to fight the COVID-19 pandemic
SAGAMORE: WILL KIRK / JOHNS HOPKINS UNIVERSITY

A s the COVID-19
pandemic shut down
states and over-
whelmed hospitals this spring,
many distillers jumped at the
make ethanol, something
that’s vital in helping stop
the spread of COVID-19 and
keeping those on the front
lines of this fight safe. It’s
including nearby Johns Hopkins.
New Riff Distilling in Newport, Kentucky
also began producing hand sanitizer and deliv-
ering it in 55-gallon drums to first responders.
“Making great whiskey always feels like a priv-
NEW RIFF: MACKENZIE FRANK / MKF PHOTO;
opportunity to help. Hand also in short supply, so the ilege but to pivot to helping first responders
sanitizer became scarce, so decision to start making hand to stay safe when they are fighting for all of us
numerous distilleries across sanitizer was something we on the front lines in this war against an unseen
the country started producing immediately considered,” enemy galvanizes the entire New Riff produc-
their own. This effort looked says Brian Treacy, president tion team,” says head distiller Brian Sprance.
different at every distillery, of Sagamore Spirit. In the last “This is our community, where we live and
but they were all united by the common goal week of March, the Baltimore-based distillery raise our families; we are proud to do our little
of serving their communities during a crisis. began producing sanitizer in large quantities bit to fight for its protection.”
“Distilleries are in a unique position—we for first responders and healthcare providers, —Sam Stone

Distillers
Double Down
on Finishes
I f there is a father of cask finishes in the
American whiskey world, it would most
likely be the late Dave Pickerell. The
longtime master distiller for Maker’s Mark
had been exploring finishes for years when the
Hillrock Estate owner Jeff Baker
(below) uses a variety of cask
finishes to accent the whiskeys
company that is now Beam Suntory bought without overwhelming them.
the operation. “Beam soon made it clear those
experimental products would not be brought
to market,” says Jeff Baker, owner of Hillrock
Estate Distillery. “But we were very interested.
We wanted complex layers.” Pickerell joined
Hillrock as master distiller, bringing his array of a nod to where the category began.
of finishing techniques to the upstate New “We chose to finish our Double Cask rye
York operation. with port, sauternes, and madeira because
Once controversial, cask-finished whiskies those wines were in real demand back when
are now commonplace. Whether it’s a wine, rye was popular, when George Washington
beer, or other spirits cask, distillers are doubling was making it,” Baker says. “Dave believed that
down by applying two or more finishes to one some of that original rye would’ve made it into
whisky. For some, it’s a byproduct of a zealous those finish casks. Those flavor profiles go in-
quest for complexity. For others, it’s braggado- credibly well.” He adds that finishes should be
cious showmanship. For Baker, a fan of finished an accent, not overwhelming characteristics:
single malts who believes this is a natural pro- “We don’t want our rye to taste like port.”
gression for American whiskey, it was also a bit continued on page 42
Multi-Finished Whisky Tracking four whiskies from start to finish

Abraham Kamiki
Bowman 1 2 Sakura 1 2
13 year old Japanese
Twice blended
Finished new Potomac sauternes malt oak Yoshino Japanese
American charred Point Winery barrel 48% • $95 barrel Sugi cherry-
oak barrel port 2 months Japanese wood
50% • $70
8 years, barrel cedar Sakura
3 months 4 years, cask cask
7 months
TOP (2): PETER GARRITANO
Hillrock Tyrconnell
Estate 1 2 3 16 year old 1
American Oloroso & 2
Single Malt Moscatel
(Barrel new Hillrock oloroso Pedro Cask-Finished bourbon barrel
OPX-30) charred bourbon sherry Ximénez single malt barrel seasoned
oak barrel barrel cask sherry 16 years with oloroso
48.2% • $105 Irish
cask sherry, then
46% • $100
moscatel wine

DISTILLATIONS
continued from page 41

TASTING LESSON More than half of Hillrock Estate’s whis-
keys spend time in a secondary finishing bar-
rel. For the Solera Aged bourbon, the number
of casks can be in the dozens. “All start in a
Take a Crack at Coconut

new, char No. 3 American oak barrel, then
into a used bourbon barrel, then into the sol-
era system,” explains Baker. “Then two more
ex-bourbon tiers, then into an oloroso sherry
Tasting Lesson is a drink hack to help springtime. Slow-growth oak has a much cask, and then into a sauternes, cabernet, or a
you better identify common whisky higher proportion of earlywood than fast- pinot noir cask.”
flavors and their origins growth oak, which has a visibly coarser grain Expect to see more wine-cask finishes
due to the wider rings of latewood. Whether creeping into Irish whiskeys. We’re enjoying
C oconut aromas might be more read-

ily found in sunscreen and shampoo,
but some whiskies offer an array of
coconut scents and flavors, a particular plea-
sure in hot weather. These characteristics
a tree is slow-growth depends on many fac-
tors, including its position in the forest, soil
quality, rainfall, elevation, and the density
of trees around it. When distillers talk about
their commitment to high-quality oak casks,
a boom in single pot still whiskeys crafted
from heritage mashbills, which means
“brands are going back to their roots and re-
leasing a style of what people were drinking
100 years ago,” says Michael Egan, U.S. brand
may call to mind cracking the fibrous shell to one of the specifics they typically insist on is ambassador for Tyrconnell. “Soon, distilleries
reveal snowy white flesh, devouring a maca- slow-growth wood. won’t have the aged older stuff available so
roon, inhaling the moreish aromas of toasted At sawmills and cooperages, air-seasoning they may release younger products, 4 or 5
flakes, scooping up spoonfuls of (drying) the timber for 18 to 24 years old, or all source from the same produc-
coconut cream pie, or biting months promotes higher er. Fortified wine cask finishes are one way to
into a Mounds or Almond levels of oak lactones differentiate that liquid.”
Joy: associations that than shorter periods of Tyrconnell started cask finishes in 2007 as
make us feel good. seasoning or artificially annual special releases for its single malts.
For coconut flavors in reducing the moisture From the first offering—three 10 year olds, each
whisky, however, the of the wood in a kiln. finished in madeira, port, or sherry—drinkers
journey to your glass Like the caress of warm were hooked. This year, a 16 year old whiskey
starts in the forest with sun on the wood in the was treated to wine casks from the Andalusia
the decision of which tree to yard, toasting the staves helps region, initially seasoned with oloroso sherry
chop down to build casks. to increase the levels of oak lac- followed by a second seasoning with moscatel
Coconut notes are associated with oak tones below the surface layers, though these wine, a unique twist on the double finish.
lactones, colloquially known as whisky levels can be destroyed if the cask is heav- The time in the finishing casks varies and
lactones. These volatile oak lactones are ily charred. Most of a barrel’s oak lactones requires frequent check-ups to find the sweet
not a single compound, but the important are extracted by whisky in its first filling; spot. “We sample at regularly defined inter-
ones to know are the cis- and trans- forms of although rejuvenation—scraping and re- vals during the initial trials to determine the
3-methyl-4-octanolide. All types of oak used charring the interior—can extend the work- best finishing duration,” says Sarah Dowling,
for casks contain oak lactones, but Quercus ing life of a cask, it’s not possible to restore master distiller and blender for Kilbeggan
alba, American white oak, has much higher the oak lactones once they’re spent. Distillery, which produces Tyrconnell. “I
levels than Quercus robur, European oak. Seek out the flavor of coconut in whisky don’t necessarily think any time is too long
After a tree is felled, the oak’s age can be and let it be your passport to an exotic para- in a barrel, but it depends on the spirit being
determined by counting the dark rings of its dise of gently lapping ocean waves, coconut finished and the character of the finishing
cross-section. Oak lactones are found in the palms, and barefoot strolls along white sandy casks. You don’t want the taste profile of
highest concentrations in the earlywood, the beaches—even if only in your imagination. one to overpower the other. It’s a delicate
lighter rings of the trunk that grow during —Jonny McCormick balance.” Likewise, cask order matters, per
Baker: “Our single malt finishes first in Pedro
Ximénez casks, then oloroso sherry. The
CHOCOLATE- COCONUT COCONUT reverse order didn’t taste as good.”
DIPPED MACAROON CREAM Experimentations don’t always turn out as
COCONUT Barrell Bourbon Aberlour
expected. “Dave talked about a giant distiller
Wild Turkey (Batch 21) A’bunadh Alba
Master’s Keep Candied pea- Cask Strength
who did a chardonnay finish,” recounts Baker.
Cornerstone Ken- nuts, peppery (Batch 001) “It was one of the worst whiskeys he’d ever
tucky Straight Rye spices, grilled Shortbread, tasted. Dave was a chemical engineer, so he
Lemon honey, peaches vanilla, poached could articulate why that bad chemical reac-
TOP: ISTOCK
raisin, oak spices pear tion destroyed this whiskey. In addition to the
art, there is a fair amount of science involved.”
SHELL GAME: Try to identify coconut flavors in these whiskies. —Sean Evans

DISTILLATIONS
Karuizawa 35 year old Cask Budo -

Collection single malt Cask No. 7147
Olympic Efforts (distilled in 1981; bottled in 2017)

ABV: 51%
Price: To be announced
The Tokyo Olympics have been postponed, but 2020 still Release: July or August
Availability: 129 bottles (43 sets of three
looks like a gold medal year for Japanese whisky bottles; available only at dekanta.com)
J Ohishi
apanese whisky makers have grappled Yamazaki 55 year old single malt
with dwindling stocks in recent years ABV: 46% JAPANESE RICE WHISKY
as thirst grows for their prized liquid. Price: ¥3 million/$28,000 (700 ml) Ohishi is releasing a sherry cask-matured rice
Yet that hasn’t stopped major distilleries and Release: June 30 whisky. There will be 888 bottles available—
smaller producers alike from releasing exciting Availability: 100 bottles via lottery; deliv- a number chosen specifically because 8 is a
new whiskies to celebrate a momentous year ered only to addresses in Japan lucky number in Japan, says Chris Uhde, vice
for Japan—in spite of the Tokyo Summer Olym- president of importer ImpEx Beverages.
pics being pushed to 2021 because of the global Chichibu The label features “Ganbare Nippon”—“Go
COVID-19 pandemic. —Zak Kostro A LEADER OF JAPAN’S CRAFT Japan!”—written in calligraphy, and the whis-
DISTILLERS ky itself is “to celebrate Japan as a whole.”
Craft whisky pioneer Chichibu plans to Also in 2020, Ohishi is releasing an 11 year
release a 10 year old single malt—its first old mizunara oak-finished whisky. But if that’s
age-statement whisky—this fall, according to not enough for fans, there’s more to look
brand ambassador Yumi Yoshikawa. forward to. Uhde says a limited-edition 16 year
old sherry cask-matured whisky is planned for
Chichibu 10 year old single malt release in 2021.
ABV: To be decided in August
Price: To be decided in August Ohishi 11 year old Sherry Cask
Release: Planned for fall 2020 ABV: 41%
Availability: 3,000 to 6,000 bottles total; Price: $99
allocation to be decided Release: August 1
Availability: 888 bottles; U.S. exclusive
Karuizawa
JAPAN’S LOST DISTILLERY Ohishi 11 year old Mizunara Cask-
Whisky collector and entrepreneur Eric Finished
Huang has chosen 2020 to release his very ABV: 42.4%
last cask from Karuizawa Distillery, which Price: $99
ceased production in 2000. The Last Master- Release: August 1
piece is meant to represent a “perfect” ending Availability: 2,004 bottles; U.S. exclusive
of the legendary Karuizawa.
Joining Huang is online Japanese whisky Ohishi 16 year old Sherry Cask
Suntory retailer Dekanta with a 35 year old Karuiza- ABV: To be determined
A JAPANESE WHISKY TITAN wa. Even with the Tokyo Games postponed, Price: $160
Suntory is releasing a 55 year old Yamazaki Dekanta still wanted to honor Japan with a Release: Planned for 2021
single malt—the oldest liquid ever from the release that company founder Makiyo Masa Availability: 2,350 bottles; U.S. exclusive
vaunted Osaka distillery, according to Beam says is inspired by the concept of budo-—a
Suntory. Significantly, the youngest liquid in Japanese term to describe martial arts—and
this whisky was distilled in 1964, the same the skill of Olympic athletes who “continue to
year as the previous Tokyo Summer Olympics. practice the technique.”
The packaging aims to showcase Japan’s
meticulous craftsmanship, with “Yamazaki” Karuizawa 50 year old The Last Mas-
engraved in calligraphy on the bottle, and terpiece single malt Cask No. 6017
gold dust and lacquer embellishing the age (distilled in 1970, bottled in 2020)
statement. The bottle mouth is wrapped in ABV: 58.3%
handmade washi paper, and bound with a Price: ¥5 million/$46,000 (700 ml)
Kyo-kumihimo plaited cord, a traditional Release: Planned for July
craft from Kyoto. Each bottle comes in a box Availability: 211 bottles; not available in
made of Japan’s treasured mizunara oak. the U.S.

DISTILLATIONS
COLLECTING
BUY IT NOW
Single Malts Rule Midleton Very Rare Silent

Distillery Collection
This takes collectible Irish whiskey to new heights.
F
It was made at Old Midleton Distillery in 1974
or more than 30 years, luxury items in grand presen- and is 45 years old, making it the oldest Irish
single malt has been tation cases, treasured bottles whiskey release. Created as an experimental
the most sought-after from a distillery visit, or a dusty batch, it's a peated single malt from a distillery
style of whisky at auction. The picked up at auction after being known for blends and single pot still whiskeys.
single malt designation offers salvaged from a forgotten cellar. This is Chapter One, a worldwide release of 48 bottles priced at
assurance about the source of Collecting should be about the $35,000/£32,000, in this new annual series planned to run until 2025.
the liquid inside the bottle: It pleasure derived from assem-
was made at the distillery named bling bottles and cherishing
on the label. This is not to be the experience and the history RECORD BREAKERS
taken for granted as, incredu- behind each one, not a tawdry
lously, representatives of some excuse for rubbing your hands U.S. RECORD
of the world’s best-selling single with glee over their value.
Yamazaki 1984
malt scotches, like Glenfiddich Nothing compares to single Hammer price $10,000
and Glenlivet, find they need malts’ singular flavors, nobody Skinner Inc, Boston, February 2020
to convince people that those can quench our curiosity for The use of mizunara oak on this Japanese single malt
names aren’t just household exploring the idiosyncrasies of captured the attention of collectors on its release, despite
brands produced at large-scale every single cask, and nothing an original price tag of $600. This sale narrowed the gap
distilleries in different parts of matches its ability to develop on the Yamazaki 1984 world record bid of HK$95,000
the world and that they actually complexity in oak, whether over ($12,103) set by Bonhams, Hong Kong in August 2018.
are distilled at the individual a period of 12 years or as long
distilleries in Speyside. as 75 years. Collectors have also
When it comes to record- kept a light burning for single WORLD RECORD
breaking whisky auction prices, malts from closed distilleries, Bowmore 34 year old 1971
it’s single malts that write all the venerating the dwindling stocks. Hammer price HK$40,000/$5,137
headlines: Scotch whisky from Even within a single distillery, Bonhams, Hong Kong, February 2020
Macallan and Bowmore, and Jap- there is a rich back catalog of This wonderful sherry-cask matured 34 year old was re-
anese whisky from Karuizawa, different bottles to explore, col- leased in 2005 at a price of $800 as part of Bowmore's
Hanyu, and Yamazaki command lect, taste, and discuss. Despite Vintage Distillation Series. Limited to 960 bottles and
the highest prices. Few of us can the diversification of whisky bottled at 51% ABV, the whisky was rated 90 points by
afford million-dollar bottles, so styles, the bedrock of our love of Whisky Advocate, garnering praise for its lush fruits and
most whisky lovers focus their whisky remains unshaken: single kiln smoke. Bonhams, Hong Kong took the record from
collecting on single malts within malts rule. Scotch Whisky Auctions in this online sale.
their price range. They may be —Jonny McCormick
AUCTION NEWS
COVID-19 Pandemic Hammers Whisky Auctions Activity

Whisky trading at auction was als such as cardboard, plastic, grew stronger during the 2008
essentially halted in March during and metal. The pandemic’s effect economic slowdown as investors
the global shutdown as country on whisky prices is unpredict- put their money into alternative
after country went into quar- able. The impact may bring more commodities. We expect online
antine to reduce the spread of substantial collections to auc- auction houses will be the best
COVID-19. Initial efforts by online tion—demand rose for alcohol place for a restart when govern-
auction houses to continue trad- for consumption at home during ment restrictions are lifted, thanks
ing were shelved as offices closed the early weeks of self-isolation— to their digital platforms and
to prevent face-to-face contact while other collectors may have partnerships with global shipping
BOTTOM: ISTOCK
between auction house staff and decided to open their best bottles companies, but in the meantime
whisky collectors, while concerns to see them through the crisis. will likely continue to explore how
circulated about the persistence It’s worth remembering that they can use technology to get
of the virus on packaging materi- the secondary whisky market up and running again.

STRAIGHT TALK
Brothers in Arms
by CHARLES K. COWDERY
T
he craft spirits movement— about distillery ownership. malt. It seems more Irish to me. Either way,
which has exploded the num- A day or so in, he had the inevitable exis- it’s quite good. A good omen for what an
ber of distilleries in the U.S.— tential crisis. “In a moment of feeling over- American single malt, a style struggling for
has not made much of a dent whelmed, I stepped outside of the conference recognition, can achieve.
in terms of sales. Its market area and sat down on a couch in the lobby,” Old Line is still small, but it has stepped
share is barely measurable, but it contributes recalls McLaughlin. A few minutes later Bob up to a 300-gallon still and now has about
in other important ways. Stilnovich joined him, and they started to talk. 90,000 proof gallons of whiskey aging in its
Old Line Golden Edition American single “He asked why I was there, and I told him it 25,000-square-foot facility in Highlandtown.
malt whiskey is a product of Baltimore’s Old was my first step toward opening a distillery.” McLaughlin and Watkins are sensitive about
Line Spirits, which started distilling in 2016. Both men are veterans. Stilnovich fought the veteran part of their story. “We don’t try to
It is 8 years old. If that math doesn’t work for in Vietnam, McLaughlin was a naval aviator leverage our military backgrounds for business
you, therein hangs the tale. in Iraq. Both of their business partners were gain,” says McLaughlin. “We embrace it as our
Golden Edition, a limited release, was not heritage, but our brand isn’t built around it.
made at Old Line’s distillery in Bob, Jim, Arch, and I connected as vets. That’s
the Highlandtown neighbor- how we rapidly established
hood east of downtown Balti- trust and rapport. That is the
more. It was distilled 3,000 miles context but not the story. The
away on Samish Island, north of story, in my opinion, is in the
Seattle, in a 60-gallon pot still at transfer of a labor of love from
Golden Distillery. Founded early one generation to the next.”
in the craft spirits movement, Yes, the American craft
Golden Distillery was a labor of spirits movement is estab-
love for two buddies in their 60s, lished enough now for that
embarking on a retirement career. kind of torch-passing. What
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY; PHOTOS COURTESY OF OLD LINE SPIRITS
The pair, Bob Stilnovich and Jim Stilnovich and Caudill built
Caudill, set up in a chicken coop on in the Pacific Northwest lives
Bob’s property, and in 2010 started on in the Mid-Atlantic. As
to make malt whiskey and fruit McLaughlin and Watkins are
Golden Distillery founders Bob Stilnovich and
spirits. In 2012, their 2 year old whiskey won Jim Caudill (left) passed the distilling torch now in their 40s, there is another generation
best single malt at the American Distilling to Mark McLaughlin and Arch Watkins (right), coming up behind them. The movement has
Institute’s (ADI) annual convention. founders of Old Line Spirits. become an industry.
In 2014, Caudill became ill and couldn’t Old Line’s story is one of many. As the
continue distilling. They decided to sell the veterans too. Stilnovich explained the situa- major producers get bigger, craft distillers
business if they could. ADI’s convention was tion to Caudill (now deceased) and wondered help keep the business on a human scale.
in Seattle that year. Stilnovich drove down to if McLaughlin and Watkins might want to Small-scale craft producers provide the fuel
see if he might discover some interest. come to Washington, learn the business, buy for similarly small-scale, craft-oriented liquor
Meanwhile, Mark McLaughlin and Arch it, and take it back to Baltimore. stores, bars, and restaurants, which you can
Watkins of Baltimore were contemplating As unlikely as all that sounds, they did. now find in diverse communities all over the
their own futures. They were only in their Along with the still and related equipment country. The craft producers have perhaps
30s, with established careers, but entertained came some whiskey. When it passed its 8th not so much changed the industry as aug-
distillery dreams. To start the ball rolling, birthday last year they bottled it as Golden mented it, given it another dimension: a way
McLaughlin quit his job in finance and flew Edition. It went on sale this past November. for drinkers to connect with distilled spirits
to Seattle, for an ADI conference, to learn They think it tastes like an unpeated scotch more intimately.

HEAD, HEART & TALES
Silence of the Drams

by JONNY MCCORMICK
Stop all the stills thumbing our screens as we swallow a bellyful new whiskies competing for our short atten-
Cut off the water supply of messages through our social media feeds tion spans, it’s good to stop once in a while
Prevent the copper dog from dunking until we’re filled up. Whisky is a social activity, and admire the beauty in every bottle. On one
with a juicy bung certainly, but there’s also a magical quality to of summer’s long dry days, take a slow walk
Silence the kiln, peat shovels succumb whisky that allows the world to stop. beside a field and let your fingers run through
Bring out the boffins, let the visitors come Stress, anxiety, and fatigue are common the nodding ears of ripening barley ahead of
I
(With apologies to W. H. Auden) features of many of our lives right now. While the harvest. Indulge yourself in one of this
whisky can help us unwind, alcohol is recog- decade’s greatest rediscovered luxuries:
t’s silent season in Scotland, now nized as a mood depressant and not a cure for Leave your phone behind. Cross the peat-
more than ever. Manway covers on stress, though I can’t help contrasting the lands with a springy stride, the moss sucking
cold copper pot stills hang open, dejected, earnest expressions you used to see at your boots, while damselflies scatter ahead
chattering birdsong floats in through on the faces of people at their workplaces of you in flashes of electric blue. Seek out
the stillroom’s open win- and battling through the daily commute with water; cup your hands in a stream and splash
dows, and the clanging tools of your face or take a boat out
whistling workmen echo in the across the shimmering surface
distance. Summer’s warmth has of a loch. Find an oasis in an oak
raised the temperature and reduced forest, reconnect with the music
the flow of the distillery’s water of nature, and let it restore your
source, the season’s annual chal- spirit. Sit down, perhaps even lie
lenge to the production of consis- down on the ground, stretch out
tent high-quality spirit. In years your limbs, touch the earth, and
gone by, the visitor center crew look up at the wispy clouds
would gird their loins at the sound through the canopy. Find solace
of airbrakes as buses offloaded the and experience the tranquility
next distillery tour groups. The and the reassurance of the woods
guests would have to use their that surround you.
imagination to experience the Now is the perfect moment for
vibration of the mill, the mashtun a whisky. The versatility of
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY; ILLUSTRATION: CHRIS LYONS

rakes turning through the foam, the whisky means you can enjoy it on
drone of the stillhouse, and the your own, free from intrusive
invisible clouds of carbon dioxide texts and emails, without a proper
lurking beneath the washback glass, miles from a power outlet,
hatch. Silent season enables the and without recording the mo-
machinery of distillation to rest as it ment with a selfie: This is private
undergoes repairs, unplugged from the the relaxed smiles, laughter, and camaraderie bliss between you and your hipflask. The
round-the-clock business of producing spirit. you see at a whisky tasting. I know which one secret to whisky is knowing that it comes
For any flagging spirits feeling a little run I find beneficial to mental well-being. with the luxury built in. Shrug off your cares,
down by life at the moment, plan your own In your silent season, look for quietness, let it soothe you, and concentrate on the
silent season this summer. I’m not talking stillness, and composure. Whisky has an complexity and harmony of just one whisky.
about any populist month-long sobriety move- elemental quality that amplifies the experi- Tip it back, bask in it, relish it; savor every
ments either. Yes, there’s a part of our connec- ence, especially in natural surroundings. It minute of calmness that it brings. Disconnect,
tion with whisky that thrives at boisterous connects us with the countryside, open land- reconnect, then come up to the surface and
parties, carousing in cocktail bars, and scapes, and wilderness. Given the barrage of breathe.

THE THINKING DRINKER
The Potency of Music
B
by STEPHEN BEAUMONT
ack when I was in my twenties, It was the worst cognac I have had in my I love the punkish Chicago whiskey bar
and the New Orleans Jazz and life, before or since. Delilah’s, for example, where I tend to only
Heritage Festival wasn’t quite Which is not to slight Courvoisier, but drink American whiskey or beer, since I feel
the colossus it is today, my rather to cast well-deserved aspersions upon certain that the subtleties of Canadian or
friends and I were regulars at my own youthful decision. Because in trying Japanese whiskies would be lost amid the
the springtime music fest. We’d pick one to be clever, I ignored a basic truism of taste, cacophony that descends upon the bar late on
weekend or the other—then, as now, the which is that environment fundamentally a Friday or Saturday night. (Straight rye
festival ran over two weekends with a affects the enjoyment of any beverage. works best, I find.) Conversely, amid the mel-
weekday break in between—and build a trip Basically, my Courvoisier sucked because it low tunes that have formed the soundtrack to
around it, enjoying the outdoor music during was the absolute wrong time, place, and mu- my experiences at New York’s Brandy Library,
the day and reveling even more in the sic for drinking cognac. a single malt or my previously misplaced
ubiquitous concerts that took place at night Far too many years have passed for me to cognac is the ideal tipple.
in such legendary venues as Tipitina’s, Maple remember what else was on the backbar that Lest I leave the impression that I feel mu-
night at Benny’s, but it being New Or- sic and whisky pairing is all about the degree
leans, I’m betting that there was bourbon, of attention you need to pay your tipple,
probably Jim Beam and Wild Turkey, however, I should also note that some of my
As I type these words, I am enjoying a peaty yet

mellow single malt scotch while jazz artists like
Stan Getz and Sonny Rollins play in the background...
maybe Maker’s Mark or Ten High, and favorite Scottish bars can grow quite raucous
with a couple of cubes of ice those would late at night, just as many of my fondest Irish
Leaf, Mid-City Lanes, and the long-since have suited the steamy setting to a tee. whiskey drinking experiences have been in
defunct Muddy Waters. Being then young but not stupid, or at least pubs best described as “heaving.” But even at
One night, we ventured on foot from a show not entirely so, I learned from my experience. these, the music often sets the stage; Scottish
at Tipitina’s to a place none of us had been to As I type these words, for example, I am rock and pop in the case of the former, and an
before, an uptown venue called Benny’s. We enjoying a peaty yet mellow single malt impromptu session featuring local musicians
arrived to find a street corner joint with a scotch while jazz artists like Stan Getz and at the latter.
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY; PHOTO: ISTOCK
blues-rock band wailing from a stage encased Sonny Rollins play in the background, the And, frankly, if you’ve never enjoyed a
in a Blues Brothers-style sort of cage, the smoke of the whisky evoking the dimly lit, dram or two to the wailing sounds of multiple
building fully open to the street on one side cigarette-clouded clubs where the originals bagpipes, well, my friend, you’ve never really
and partially so on the other. The crowd was of these recordings were once played. tasted scotch whisky!
sparse but enthusiastic, and the vibe friendly My friend, British writer Pete Brown, gives The bottom line is that your surroundings
with a slight suggestion of danger. As I ap- a series of talks demonstrating the effect will affect the way you appreciate—or don’t—
proached the bar, my mind drifted to the different genres of music have on the enjoy- almost anything you eat or drink. So paying
most absurd drink I could possibly order ment of different styles of beer. While I tend attention to the mood and environment, both
considering the circumstances and, upon not to get as precise as he does—Pete goes so physical and aural, can improve your experi-
spying the bottle, immediately settled on a far as to pair individual artists with specific ence. Whether you’re paying $110 for a bottle
Courvoisier V.S.O.P. cognac, generously mea- beers—I do agree that music and drinks can or $12 for a dram, why would you not want to
sured into a plastic cup. and do impact each other. get the most impact for your money?

Whisky
Cocktails
AT HOME
Everything you
need to know
about these
5 classics
I
n a perfect world, we’d all be
well-equipped with a sterling Highball
silver cocktail shaker, a variety page 56
of premium mixers, and fresh
fruit, prepared to transform our
favorite whiskies into tasty cock-
tails at a moment’s notice. However,
life is often less than perfect. Mint Julep
So, we’ve delved into five classic page 60
whisky cocktails with the help of
some top bartenders, asking a lot of
questions that begin “What if…?”
Because sometimes you’re low on
Old
limes, or can’t find a cocktail Fashioned
strainer. If you’re willing to put page 62
aside some of the pomp and ped-
antry, there’s more than one way to
make a cocktail. In fact, more than a
few great cocktails have been in- Manhattan
vented out of necessity. page 64
With their relatively short ingre-
dient lists and simple recipes, the
MARTÍ SANS / STOCKSY
whisky classics are well-suited for

improvisation. If you’re hankering Whiskey
for a cold cocktail at home this Sour
summer, read on to learn how to page 66
construct a great drink, while let-
ting nothing stand in your way.

Build Your Best…
HIGHBALL
How to Make
a Highball
1 1⁄2 oz. whisky
4 oz. chilled club soda
Lemon twist for garnish
Add a long spear, two or three large
P
cubes, or several hefty chunks of ice to a
chilled Highball glass. Add whisky and
erfect for leisurely sipping on a balmy by beer, or even wine. “It pairs pretty much give it 10 gentle stirs. Slowly add soda.
summer night, the Highball is enjoying with anything you’re eating, almost like Stir gently once or twice more, and
a revival in the U.S. But in Japan, champagne,” Urushido adds. Highballs also garnish with a lemon twist.
Highballs are a way of life, says Masa- temper the potent proof of whisky. “It’s not a
hiro Urushido, managing partner and strong drink,” says Peter Mizutani, senior bar YOU’RE DOING
bartender at Japanese-style cocktail bar captain at Conrad Tokyo hotel’s bar Twen- IT WRONG
Katana Kitten in New York City. “The tyEight. “Japanese people drink Highballs to Slow your stir. The key to a good Highball
Highball has been popular for over 100 enjoy the atmosphere. Maybe in the U.S. or is a delicate touch that doesn’t agitate the
years,” Urushido says. “I think the reason is Australia or Europe, they enjoy their whisky ingredients and lose bubbles. “You don’t
because it’s so versatile.” neat, but in Japan we prefer to drink whisky need that much stirring,” says Urushido,
An ideal whisky drink, the Highball allows with soda water.” who uses his barspoon to “just lift up the
the spirit to step into roles usually occupied —Zak Kostro ice from the bottom.”
WHISKY SELECTOR
Any whisky you enjoy on its own will go well in a Highball, as the dilution and effervescence serve to reveal and lift up its flavors.
After whisky style, the obvious consideration is price. But given the simplicity of the Highball, the flavor of the whisky remains
largely unadulterated, making it a perfectly suitable vehicle for showcasing even some of your finest whiskies.
$50 & UNDER $75 & UNDER $100 & UNDER

JAPANESE JAPANESE JAPANESE
88 Suntory Toki 43%, $35 Smoky embers, 94 Nikka From the Barrel 93 Yamazaki 12 year old 43%, $85 Lychee,
roasted spices, buttered popcorn, and 51.4%, $65 Butterscotch, spring blossoms, lily, rose water, and
orchard fruit orange peel, autumn leaves, raspberry meringue
and spice
BLENDED SCOTCH BLENDED SCOTCH
90 Johnnie Walker Double Black 40%, $40 BLENDED SCOTCH 94 Dewar’s 21 year old Double Double 46%,
Smoke, peat, apple, and orange 90 Compass Box The Peat $50/375ml Chocolate-dipped raspberries,
OPPOSITE: BHOFACK2 / ISTOCKPHOTO; INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK

BLENDED IRISH Monster 46%, $60 Grubby gingersnaps, and bold sherry fruit
90 Powers Gold Label 43.2%, $38 Ground peat, fudge, and mellowing
BLENDED IRISH
cinnamon, coriander, and nutmeg cigar stubs 88 Tullamore D.E.W. 15 year old
SINGLE MALT SCOTCH BLENDED IRISH Trilogy 40%, $80 Barley sugar,
92 Laphroaig 10 year old 40%, $50 94 Writers’ Tears Double Oak 46%, $65 lemon bonbon, and vanilla
Chocolate, cinnamon, and pot still spices
Band-Aids, seaweed, smoldering peat, SINGLE MALT SCOTCH
vanilla, and caramel SINGLE MALT SCOTCH 94 Ardbeg Uigeadail 54.2%, $80
CANADIAN 90 Macallan 12 year old Double Cask 43%, Peppery peat, warm tar, and
90 J.P. Wiser’s Triple Barrel Rye $71 Raisins, figs, hazelnuts, blanched coffee grounds
almonds, and leather
45%, $20 Blackberries, tart kiwi, CANADIAN
ginger, cloves, and nutmeg CANADIAN 92 Wayne Gretzky No. 99 Ninety
BOURBON 92 Forty Creek Unity 43%, $75 Luscious Nine Proof 49.5%, $80 Fruity, fading dry
82 Old Grand-Dad Bonded caramels, grape jelly, and hot rye spices pepper, and spent gunpowder
50%, $25 Baking spices, freshly BOURBON BOURBON
baked bread, and cinnamon roll 94 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof 68.3%, $60 92 Barrell Cask Strength (Batch 23)
Oak, allspice, pepper, and cloves 53.89%, $90 Herbal antiseptic, tarragon,
and caramel

Ice Glass
Japanese A Highball glass should be
bartenders prefer large enough to hold the liquid
chunks of crystal- along with plenty of ice, and
clear, hand-carved ice. have sides that are straight or
But Hidenori Komatsu, owner curve inward at the top. Avoid
of Apollo Bar in Tokyo’s using a wide-mouthed or pint
upscale Ginza shopping glass; they allow bubbles, and
district, says that flavor is most flavor, to dissipate.
important—namely, that the ice
“doesn’t contain impurities CR EATIV E SOLU TION S
such as chlorine, has high Mug Shot

transparency, and doesn’t have Urushido says a glass stein
a unique flavor.” At home, use stored in the freezer keeps the
ice from filtered or bottled Highball cold longer since
water that spent no more than the handle prevents
24 hours uncovered in the direct contact with
freezer to avoid off flavors. the main part of
the glass. “That’s
CR E AT I VE SOLUT I ON
kind of the classic
Moment of Clarity vessel in Japan,”
Without a special directional he adds.
freezing tray designed to
produce clear ice, you can still Stem Research
improve ice clarity by freezing Sip your Highball from a large
twice-boiled distilled water. bordeaux-style wine glass that
The lack of air and impurities conveys the whisky’s aroma
creates clearer cubes. Keep ice and displays the garnish, notes
from cracking in the glass by Komatsu.
tempering in the fridge for an
hour, or at room temperature
for 10 minutes before using.
Fizz Garnish
Lemon twist is a classic garnish
Urushido likes Q Mixers’ club for good reason. “Citrus aroma
soda for its high bubble is very neutral,” complement-
content. But any type of soda ing a range of whisky flavors
will perform better if chilled and styles, Urushido explains.
before you begin mixing the Lime, orange, or grapefruit
drink. It retains more of the work well too.
carbonated gas in the liquid,
and “the higher the carbon- CR EATIV E SOLU TION
ation the better,” Urushido Raid the Pantry
notes. Vary your garnish according to
your whisky. Taking his
C RE AT IVE SOLUT I ON
inspiration from a sherry
Join the Club cask-aged Macallan Highball,
Seltzer water has bubbles but Komatsu proposes raisins to
lacks the distinct taste of club highlight the “sweetness of
soda with its added minerals. dried fruits.” To enhance the
To lend seltzer or homemade brininess of an Islay malt like
soda water the alkaline edge of Bowmore, he suggests a
club soda, you can experiment salt-rimmed glass. Fresh herbs
with adding small pinches of match well with rye or
sea salt and baking soda. bourbon.
Build Your Best…
MINT JULEP
I
conic in presentation with its silver cup author of “The Waldorf Astoria Bar Book,” How to Make
and fresh greenery, the Mint Julep is says that respecting simplicity is important. a Mint Julep
arguably bourbon at its most refreshing. “Keep it basic,” he urges. “Stick to protocol.”
But historically, the Julep has been made Ryan Hart, bar manager at The Crunkleton 1 tsp. sugar or 1⁄2 oz. simple syrup
Handful mint leaves, plus a sprig for
with brandy, rum, and even genever—and in Charlotte, North Carolina says that the
garnish
occasionally without mint—so there’s Mint Julep is easily tweaked to suit the
Finely crushed ice
precedent for flexibility. drinker, depending on whether you prefer 2 oz. bourbon
Like many classic cocktails, the Julep bene- your cocktail stronger or sweeter. “What’s
Add the sugar to a Julep cup, along with
fits from a short ingredient list and ease of really important is getting the gist of the rec-
about a teaspoon of water—just enough to
execution. Frank Caiafa, beverage director at ipe and learning how to balance it,” he says. dissolve it—giving it a stir; if using simple
New York City’s The Stayton Room and —Susannah Skiver Barton syrup, omit the water. Add the mint leaves,
reserving one generous sprig, and press
gently with a muddler or spoon to extract
the oils. Fill the cup about halfway with
WHISKY SELECTOR crushed ice. Add bourbon and stir until
chilled. Mound more crushed ice on top.
Whether you use whiskey or another spirit, high proof is key, as the Julep’s crushed
ice will overdilute something with less alcohol. Consider our favorites or choose Garnish with remaining mint sprig, and be
your own, but remember that the sweetener may need to be adjusted accordingly. sure to include a straw for sipping.
YOU’RE DOING
Traditional Alternative IT WRONG
Most people apply too much muscle to
Kentucky straight bourbon is the Beyond bourbon, rye and other
muddling mint. “Breaking the cell wall [of
standby in the state that made the American whiskeys mix nicely with
the leaf] releases chlorophyll, which adds
Julep famous. mint.
bitterness to the drink,” says Hart, who
Wild Turkey 101 50.5%, $25 Pikesville 6 year old Straight rye suggests shaking the simple syrup,
Balance and heft make an ideal 55%, $50 Withstands plenty of ice bourbon, and a handful of mint leaves
cocktail ingredient melt with a jab of spice with one or two ice cubes to gently
Heaven Hill 7 year old Bottled Balcones True Blue Straight corn awaken the flavor of the mint before
in Bond 50%, $40 Powerful oak, 50%, $55 Made from roasted blue building the drink in the cup.
spice, and sweetness corn
Old Grand-Dad 114 57%, $33 Bold Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Barrel
and potent, with lip-smacking Proof proof varies, $60 Tennessee
Esoteric
OPPOSITE: MARTÍ SANS / STOCKSY; INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK

character whiskey at its punchiest
Crack into a pot still Irish or even a
Modern Historic single malt scotch for an eclectic
variation.
These specialty-finished and non- Brandy, rum, and genever have all
Barrell Infinite Barrel Project proof
traditional bourbons break the mold. made appearances in the Julep over
varies, $65 Batches combine styles
time.
Bardstown Bourbon Co. The Prisoner across American, scotch, and more
Barrel-Finished 50%, $125 Graceful, Sacred Bond brandy 50%, $18 Aged
Aberlour A’bunadh Alba (Batch 001)
thanks to a finish in red wine barrels in Heaven Hill barrels and bottled in
single malt scotch 57.1%, $90 Pure
bond
Joseph Magnus Cigar Blend proof sweetness from bourbon cask
varies, $149 A mix of cask finishes Smith & Cross Traditional Jamaica maturation
adds extra complexity rum 57%, $33 Navy strength, with
Redbreast 12 year old Cask Strength
equally strong flavor
Chattanooga 111 Proof Straight single pot still Irish proof varies, $84
55.5%, $47 This high-malt style Freeland Spirits Geneva gin 45%, Body and rich flavor, with wild spice
ventures outside the box $44 Botanicals top a rye base in this
genever-style spirit from Oregon

Fresh Mint C RE AT I VE S OLU TI ON
Newly Minted
CREATIVE S OLUTIO N
Embellish Mint
Mint leaves are the hallmark of Replace the water in your simple syrup with mint Swap basil, lemon balm, or other sweet
the drink, used for both mixing tea: Brew 1 cup of mint tea according to instructions, herbs for mint.
and garnish. “The bouquet, in remove the teabag, and combine with 1 cup of sugar OR Take a page from historic Juleps
both sight and smell, sticking until dissolved. that included lavish fruit garnishes for
your face into it—that’s the OR Add 2 teaspoons of peppermint or spearmint added aromatics: citrus slices,
whole attraction,” Caiafa says. extract to a cup of prepared simple syrup. pineapple wedges, berries, and
But even without fresh mint on OR Crush candy canes or other hard mint candies in cherries.
hand, you can enjoy the Julep’s a Ziploc bag. Combine 1 cup candy, 1 cup water, and OR Go non-traditional and add a pepper-
signature flavor. 1 cup of sugar and simmer until dissolved. mint patty or mint cookie to the rim.
Silver Cup
The Julep’s signature vessel is as unique
as the drink itself. But Caiafa says a
Collins glass will suffice, as its height and
shape maintain some of the cocktail’s
“regal presentation.”
CREATI V E SOLUTIO N
Get The Short Straw
The silver cup gets all the attention, but
the straw is the Julep’s unsung hero,
making drinking both practical and
pleasurable. Cut the straw to stick up just
above the mint sprig, so that your nose is
perfectly positioned to inhale those
beautiful aromas.
Ice
Crushed ice is a must for Mint Juleps, as
it chills the liquid much faster than larger
cubes, but ice that’s too small quickly
overdilutes the drink. Evaluate your ice
crusher or refrigerator ice maker before
you begin; the ice should be just fine
enough to pack into a mounded shape
on top. Avoid using a food processor or
blender; the friction of the blades leads
to a watery mess.
Sugar CREATI V E SOLUTIO N

How to Crush It
Whether you elect to use white granulated Take inspiration from the traditional Lewis
sugar or simple syrup, which makes mixing bag, a canvas bag in which
easier, it’s best to start light, since the bartenders crush ice with a
Julep has no sour balancing ingredients. “If wooden mallet. Wrap ice
it’s too sweet, it’s awful to drink,” Hart says. cubes in a kitchen towel or
even a pillowcase and
CR E AT I VE SO LU T I ON
smash them with a rolling
Sweet Talk pin. As the cloth wicks away
You can substitute a variety of sweeten- moisture, it leaves dry crushed
ers (see Equal Measures, page 62). ice, ideal for mounding.
Build Your Best…
How to Make
an Old Fashioned
1 sugar cube or 1⁄2 tsp. sugar OLD FASHIONED
F
2 dashes Angostura bitters
2 oz. bourbon or rye
Lemon or orange twist for garnish or centuries, the Old Fashioned has
In an Old Fashioned or short rocks glass,
add sugar, bitters, and half a splash of
remained a staple at bars around the
world. “It is literally the definitive
Garnish
water. Agitate with a spoon or muddler to cocktail,” says Sam Treadway, owner of If you must maraschino, limit it to a
dissolve sugar. Add whiskey and one large Backbar in Somerville, Massachusetts. single cherry. And aim to add an orange
ice cube (or several smaller ones) and stir or lemon twist, which lend a “blast of
“Once upon a time, the word ‘cocktail’ meant
well. Twist the citrus peel to release the citrus oil and aromatics when you first
specifically this one drink.” As trendy, newer
oils and run it around the rim of the glass, sip the drink,” according to Treadway.
cocktails were invented, it became known as
then drop it into the cocktail.
the “Old Fashioned cocktail.” CRE ATIVE SO LUTI O N
Will Benedetto, opening beverage director Eye Candy
YOU’RE DOING and bar consultant at The Fox Bar & Cocktail That red cherry is mostly food coloring
IT WRONG
Club in Nashville, says the Old Fashioned is and sugar anyway, so Benedetto
Failing to fully dissolve a sugar cube or
highly versatile with whiskey—and beyond. suggests being a bit more
granulated sugar will leave you with an
“Any spirit—any worth drinking—can be made creative by reaching for
unbalanced drink that turns crunchy at
into an enlightening Old Fashioned,” he says. sugary snacks that echo
the end. “When you put in the sugar and
It’s doubtful that the elaborate craft cocktails flavors in the cocktail. Try a
bitters, add a tiny bit of water and stir
of today will be remembered in a century. But toasted marshmallow,
that around to at least start the dissolv-
caramel corn, or even
ing,” says Treadway. Once you add ice, it owing to its short list of common ingredients
gummy bears.
becomes much harder to dissolve. and simplicity, the Old Fashioned endures.
—Sam Stone
Sugar CR EATIVE S OLU TION Equal Measures

The Old Fashioned is traditionally made with either granulated white There’s a lot of variety in the world of cocktail sweeteners. Here are
sugar or a sugar cube. Superfine bar sugar is fast-dissolving and equivalencies for some common household sweeteners, although you
eliminates the potential for a crunchy cocktail, as does simple syrup. can always adjust to suit your personal sweet tooth.
Honey 3⁄8 tsp. Agave Syrup 3⁄8 tsp. Brown Sugar 1⁄2 tsp. Maple Syrup 3⁄8 tsp. Splenda 1⁄4 packet Cherry Syrup 3⁄4 tsp.
TIP “If you pour honey TIP Agave works well TIP If you’re substitut- TIP Check the TIP Artificial sweeten- TIP Maraschino
over an iced cocktail it with whiskey, but ing another spirit for ingredients of your ers are often highly cherries are packed in
won’t dissolve and Justin Mitchell, bar whiskey, use brown syrup. For the best concentrated. Mitchell sweet sugar syrup.
incorporate in the manager at The sugar to add a flavor, use 100% maple warns they require Mitchell suggests
drink,” says Benedetto. Dorian in San Fran- barrel-like nuance. syrup. A lot of inferior precise measurement using a barspoon’s
INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK
His solution is to add cisco, switches to “Something dry like “maple-flavored to avoid over-sweet- worth of syrup, which
it to the room-temper- tequila and mezcal as genever or Lowlands syrups” are made ening your drink. is roughly 1⁄8 oz., or 3⁄4
ature spirit or thin it the base spirit for his tequila would pair well primarily of corn Splenda, for instance, tsp. Or you can smash
with a bit of warm Oaxacan Old with brown sugar,” syrup, Benedetto requires just 1⁄16 tsp., or a cherry in the glass to
water before mixing. Fashioned. says Benedetto. cautions. 1⁄4 of the packet. free its syrup.

Bitters
Bitters are an integral part of
holding the drink together. “It’s
almost like adding salt and
pepper to a food dish,” Treadway
says, adding that the bitters can
make the other flavors in the
cocktail taste even better.
CR EATIV E SO LUTI ON
Tea time
An Old Fashioned without bitters
lacks intrigue and balance.
Treadway says you can achieve a
good approximation
with the tannins of
black tea and bitter
citrus peel.
Simply steep one
strong black tea
bag (or 1 tsp.
loose-leaf tea) in ½ cup
of hot water for 5-10 minutes.
Remove the tea bag and add ¼
cup sugar to the hot tea. Stir until
dissolved. Use this simple syrup
as your sweetener, muddling it
with several citrus peels, for a
balanced cocktail.
WHISKY SELECTOR in bond bourbon for a cocktail “with a little more bite.”
While Treadway points out that scotch works well in the
As with the rest of its ingredients, the whisky used in an Old
cocktail, he cautions that it can be “just a little aggressive on
Fashioned can be switched up. It’s traditionally made with rye
the smoke,” so you need to choose accordingly.
or bourbon, and if using bourbon, Mitchell recommends bottled
Here’s a list of whiskies in a variety of styles and prices.
$40 and Under $60 and Under $100 and Under

BOURBON 89 Maker’s Mark BOURBON 92 Bulleit Blender’s BOURBON 90 Kentucky Peerless
TOP: VIENNETTA / GETTY IMAGES; INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK
Kentucky Straight 45%, $25 Select Kentucky Straight (Batch Straight 54.9%, $70
RYE 91 High West Double Rye! 001) 50%, $50 RYE 87 WhistlePig 10 year old
46%, $40 RYE 92 New Riff Bottled in Bond Straight 50%, $84
50%, $46
JAPANESE 88 Suntory Toki JAPANESE 89 Nikka Coffey Malt
43%, $35 JAPANESE 92 Kaiyo- Mizunara Oak 45%, $75
43%, $60
BLENDED SCOTCH 88 Johnnie BLENDED SCOTCH 91 Compass
Walker 12 year old Black Label BLENDED SCOTCH 91 Sheep Dip Box Spice Tree 46%, $69
40%, $36 Original 40%, $43
SINGLE MALT SCOTCH
SINGLE MALT SCOTCH SINGLE MALT SCOTCH 93 91 Bruichladdich Bere Barley 2010
87 Glenmorangie Original 43%, $40 Ardbeg An Oa 46.6%, $60 50%, $100
IRISH 90 The Irishman Founder’s IRISH 92 Powers Three Swallow IRISH 92 Tyrconnell 16 year old
Reserve Blended 40%, $35 43.2%, $48 Oloroso & Moscatel Cask-Finished
46%, $100
CANADIAN 94 Lot No. 40 CANADIAN 92 Crown Royal Noble
43%, $40 Collection 13 year old Blenders’ CANADIAN 94 Masterson’s 10
Mash 45%, $60 year old Straight rye 45%, $70

How to Make
a Manhattan
Build Your Best…
MANHATTAN
2 oz. whiskey
1 oz. sweet vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Cocktail cherry or citrus peel for garnish
Combine whiskey, vermouth, and bitters
in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir until
chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe and
garnish with cherry or orange peel,
expressed over the glass.
T
YOU’RE DOING
IT WRONG
he Manhattan cocktail—a simple to balance its sweetness with bitterness and
“Do not shake a Manhattan! It’s messier
recipe of American whiskey, sweet acidity. In fact, almost any style of whiskey than it needs to be, especially at home, and
vermouth, and bitters that predates you enjoy can shine in a Manhattan. a spirits-only based drink like this deserves
the Martini—yields myriad combina- The modern Manhattan ratio is 2:1 whis- stirring only,” says Cerankosky. You can stir
tions to suit almost any whiskey lover. key to vermouth, but the original skewed the in almost any containter, as long as you
“I’m very choosy, first, about which opposite, with twice as much vermouth as have a strainer to hold back the ice.
rye—yes, rye—works best. Bourbon is too soft whiskey. Try this lower-proof rendition Cerankosky says these work well in a pinch.
for me in this drink,” says Charles Cer- well-suited to summer—or find your sweet
ankosky, co-owner of Good Luck, Cure, and spot somewhere in between. When these
Jackrabbit Club in Rochester, New York. ingredients meet with ice, it’s hard to go
However, many enjoy bourbon just fine, espe- wrong. PIE LARGE KEURIG
SERVER SALAD TRAY
cially when matched with the right vermouth —Jeffery Lindenmuth FORK
WHISKY SELECTOR
The classic dilemma of the Manhattan is bourbon or rye. Within these styles exists a lot of nuance. Bartender and instructor on Master-
Class Ryan Chetiyawardana often takes the middle ground with a high-rye bourbon. “I like the corn sweetness over a straight rye—but
currently I’m on wheated bourbons with a little extra age on them to give a balance of sweetness, creaminess, and wood spice,” he says.
BOLDER
Maker’s Mark Cask Strength Bourbon

(Batch 19-01) 54.4%, $40 Wild Turkey Rare Wild Turkey
Breed Bourbon 101 Straight
Old Overholt
BOURBON 58.4%, $45 Rye 50.5%, $26
Bonded Rye Rossville
BELIEVER 50%, $25 Union
“I’m a big believer in bourbon Larceny Barrel Proof Straight Rye
as the base in a Manhattan. Bourbon (Batch A120) 47%, $40
The vermouth in a Manhattan 61.6%, $50 Four Roses Old Forester
Single Barrel Straight Rye
OPPOSITE: MARTÍ SANS / STOCKSY; INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK

adds sweetness, but you’re
also adding acidity.” Bourbon 50%, $24
High West Double
INTENSITY
Larceny Four Roses Small 50%, $48

—Jordan David Smith Bourbon Batch Bourbon Rye! 46%, $40
46%, $25 45%, $35
SWEETNESS FLAVOR SPICE
Woodford Reserve Distiller’s
Select Bourbon 45.2%, $35
RYE ROOTER
Maker’s Mark Bourbon 45%, $25 Bulleit 10 year
“I’m very choosy, first,
old Bourbon
Buffalo Trace about which rye—yes,
45.6%, $40
George Dickel Barrel Select Bourbon rye—works best.
Tennessee Whiskey 43%, $46 45%, $25 Bourbon is too soft
Basil Hayden’s 10 year for me in this drink.”
SOFTER
old Bourbon 40%, $60 —Charles Cerankosky

Evan Williams Jim Beam White Label
1783 Bourbon Bourbon 40%, $16
43%, $20

Garnish
The maraschino cherry may be
an icon of the Manhattan,
Ice but its sweetness lends
little to the drink. “A
Use fresh ice—and lots of it, advises
nicely-trimmed, wide,
Cerankosky. “If you stir with too little
pithless plank of
ice, a greater amount of that ice
lemon peel, rubbed
must melt to sufficiently lower the
around the rim and
temperature,” It sounds counterintu-
twisted over top before
itive, but too little ice waters down a being dropped in, does it for me,”
drink faster.
says Cerankosky.
CR E AT I VE SOLUT I ON
CR EATIV E S OLU TIO N
Just Add Water Sugar and Spice
For a foolproof Manhattan, Jordan
Deep, layered flavors offer lots of
David Smith, spirits director at The
inspiration for creative garnishes.
Backroom by ODO in New York City,
Meaghan Dorman of Dear Irving on
says you can skip the ice altogether.
Hudson in New York City suggests the
Instead, add 1 oz. water per drink.
complementary flavors of a square of
“Give it a quick stir and stick every-
dark chocolate or a cinnamon stick.
thing in the fridge for an hour or two.
Diving deeper into the spice rack,
Perfectly chilled, perfectly diluted.”
Chetiyawardana prefers a bay leaf or
a sprig of rosemary.
Sweet Vermouth
Manhattan drinkers are as fanatical
Bitters
about their vermouth as they are While Angostura bitters are the
their whiskey. “As an ingredient, it’s classic, the third ingredient in a
bringing a lot to the table: sweetness, Manhattan offers more variety than
acidity, weight, tannic structure, and ever before, with boutique bitters
botanical depth,” says Smith. that accentuate cardamom, grape-
fruit, chocolate, or even rhubarb. You
CR E AT I VE SOLUT I ON can also combine multiple varieties.
Grape Expectations
CR EATIV E S OLU TIO N
Other fortified wines—like tawny
port, oloroso sherry, and madeira— Bitters Truth
can yield a tasty Manhat- Making proper bitters takes time,
tan variation. When but an a la minute preparation will
using these in place lend the requisite olfactory flair.
of vermouth, reduce James Arsenault, director of food
the amount to ¾ oz. and beverage at Harbor View Hotel
and up the whiskey to in Edgartown, Massachusetts,
2 ¼ oz., says Smith. A suggests combining baking spices
fruit-forward red wine or like cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg
even grape juice can do the job by with finely diced orange and other
adding extra bitters for balance. citrus peel, and 2 to 3 tablespoons
of dark rum. “When the taste is to
your liking, strain it and you can use
the concoction for your at-home
bitters!” says Arsenault.
Build Your Best…
WHISKEY SOUR
WHISKY
SELECTOR
The Sour is forgiving when it
comes to whiskey. “It’s one
of those drinks that sort of existed because
the spirit was not good. And now using
superior product actually makes it even
better,” Sabo says. Bourbon and rye are the
B
go-to choices, with Sabo preferring Ritten-
house Bottled in Bond rye and Bodenheimer
opting for Evan Williams Single Barrel
right and buoyant, the Whiskey Sour bourbon. Because it’s a dense drink, proof is
is whiskey dressed for a summer day. How to Make important. “You still want that spirit to come
The drink may have originated with a Whiskey Sour through,” Sabo says. Avoid 40% ABV
18th-century sailors combining whiskeys, which can get lost in the mix, and
2 oz. bourbon or rye reach for those between 43% and 50% ABV.
ingredients they had at hand, but the 3⁄4 oz. fresh-squeezed lemon juice
unbeatable balance of spirit, sugar, This cocktail is a wonderful way to
1⁄2 oz. rich simple syrup (recipe below)
and citrus makes this drink transcend the showcase solid whiskeys and create a
1 egg white (optional) classic drink on a budget. We identified
whims of cocktail fashion. “It’s beautiful in Lemon peel and maraschino cherry for bottles with substantial proof, ratings of 88
its simplicity and it’s delicious and it manages garnish points and higher, and prices that permit a
to be really fun, and it’s also a really nice Add whiskey, lemon juice, simple syrup, delicious cocktail for just a few bucks.
access point for whiskey for a lot of people,” and egg white to a cocktail shaker. Dry
says Dan Sabo, director of food and beverage shake (without ice). Add ice and shake
at Fairmont Century Plaza in Los Angeles. again to chill. Strain into a rocks glass over
As long as you stay focused on a balance of cubed ice. Rub the rim of the glass with a
sweet, sour, and spirit, the Whiskey Sour lemon peel. Float peel and cherry on top.
leaves plenty of room for interpretation or Rich Simple Syrup
tweaking to suit your palate. “There are a 2 cups granulated sugar
OPPOSITE: MARTÍ SANS / STOCKSY; INSET PHOTOS: ISTOCK; PROCESS ILLUSTRATIONS: ORLANDO HOETZEL
thousand things you can do to add a little 1 cup water
twist to it and that’s one of the things that Heat sugar and water until all sugar is
great classics can do,” says Neal Boden- dissolved. Pour into a sealable container
heimer, co-owner of Cure in New Orleans. “It and keep refrigerated for up to six weeks.
can handle a little bit of innovation, but the
basic version is as good.” YOU’RE DOING
Skip the bottled sour mix and get creative IT WRONG
using these fun tips. As Bodenheimer says, Trying to juice lemons, or other citrus,
“There’s really no limitation to what you can pulled directly from the refrigerator is
do with a Whiskey Sour.” wasteful. As the cold fruit contracts, it Whiskey Sours Under $2
—Ted Simmons becomes more difficult to extract juice. 88 Buffalo Trace 45%, $25 ($1.97 per drink)
89 Maker’s Mark 45%, $25 ($1.97 per drink)
88 Old Overholt Bonded rye
50%, $25 ($1.97 per drink)
Get your Juices Flowing Whiskey Sours Under $3
91 Evan Williams Single Barrel 2010
Vintage 43.3%, $30 ($2.36 per drink)
88 Rittenhouse Bottled in Bond rye 50%,
$28 ($2.21 per drink)
88 Wild Turkey 101 Straight rye 50.5%, $26
($2.05 per drink)
Whiskey Sours Under $4

To get the most yield Once thawed, place it Cut off the ends then Extract the juice 91 Bulleit 10 year old 45.6% $40
from citrus, place it in on the counter and slice it in half length- using a citrus reamer, ($3.15 per drink)
the freezer. The cell use your hand or a wise, not across, to stand juicer, or a fork. 91 High West Double Rye! 46%, $40
walls will rupture rolling pin to firmly get the most juice. Do Press the citrus ($3.15 per drink)
making for a more roll it back and forth cut across if using a against the tines, and 89 Jim Beam Single Barrel 47.5%, $40
fruitful squeeze. before cutting. handheld reamer. squeeze. ($3.15 per drink)

Egg White C R EAT I VE S O LU TION
Foam Improvement
Garnish
Egg white doesn’t impart flavor but adds a After whipping up some hummus, save the Lemon peel and maraschino
creamy texture and a frothy head that can act as canned chickpea juice (also known as aqua- cherry are the modern stan-
a platform for final ingredients. “You can suspend faba). A tablespoon of this vegan alternative dard, but Sabo says you can use
ingredients like bitters and orange peels or will add frothy texture very similar to egg the peel of whatever citrus
lemon peels,” says Chris Tunstall, founder white. “It doesn’t quite tame down the you’ve squeezed.
of bartender consultancy A Bar Above. acidity as much as an egg white does,”
CR EATIV E SO LUTIO N
If you have concerns about raw egg, Tunstall says, “but it still creates more
try pasteurized egg whites. of that harmony in the cocktail.” Jarring Experience
No fancy brandied cherries at
hand? According to Sabo, you
can upgrade a jar of grocery
store sundae toppers by
dumping out half the liquid and
replacing it with brandy or
bourbon to infuse them over
several days. At the very least,
give them a rinse so the sweet
syrup doesn’t throw your drink
out of balance.
CR EATIV E SO LUTIO N
Dash Away
A few dashes of bitters
splashed across the frothy head
are an easy alterna-
tive to garnish that
will add a deeper
dimension to the
bright and
buoyant drink.
“Bitters act like salt
in cooking,” Boden-
heimer says. “It helps bind
things and make homogenous
flavors.”
Simple Syrup
You can balance the sharp bite
of citrus with virtually any
sweetener at hand (see Equal
Measures, page 62).
C R EAT I VE S OLU TION

Lemon Juice Acid Reigns
Fresh-squeezed lemon juice is what makes a Sour, well, When replacing lemon juice with other citrus, reduce the amount of
sour. Shelf-stable alternatives will suffice but beware of simple syrup to match the level of acidity. “It’s really fun to experi-
added ingredients in the little plastic lemon- or lime- ment with whatever citrus you can get your hands on,” says Sabo.
shaped bottles. “I always notice a small metallic note to For lime juice, cut sugar only slightly; the two fruits have similar acidity
shelf-stable citrus and the acid might be more pro- levels. When using grapefruit, reduce the simple syrup to about 1⁄4 oz.
nounced,” says Tunstall. With orange juice, reduce the simple syrup to just 1⁄2 tsp. According to Sabo, the
Look for 100% juice on the label; otherwise you’ll be addition of 1⁄2 oz. of orange juice is his secret to a great Whiskey Sour, adding flavor
dealing with added sugar before you start mixing. and gently tempering the bite of lemon juice.
Annabel Thomas, founder of Nc’nean
Distillery, began producing scotch
whisky in 2017 exclusively using
100% organic barley.
RESH ACES
New distilleries express
a bright future for
single malt scotch
BY JONNY M C CORMICK
HE BEST-KNOWN single malt scotch distill-

ers are quick to point to their long history, persever-
ance, and established reputations for greatness. But for
the first time in nearly a hundred years, they are finding
themselves in the company of a throng of newcomers.
Distillery construction in Scotland hasn’t been this
active since the beginning of the 20th century. While
new distillers follow the rules and enjoy the cachet
associated with the world’s most premium spirit, they
are also innovative by nature. These new scotch distill-
ers are finding their niche among the ranks of the old
guard. For whisky lovers, that means a greater selection
of single malts to choose from and fresh directions,
including creative approaches to distilling and finishing.
Green Light
The basis for the surge in new distilleries is more than
just entrepreneurs chasing a piece of the whisky boom.
There are deeper reasons concerning the environment,
the subtle ways in which whisky making is changing,
regulations that now permit smaller stills, and the
general gravitation toward food and drink born of
personalities and places. “There has been a big shift
away from the industrial production of food and drink
by large corporations to more manageable businesses
that have a clear provenance, a face behind the name,
and a reason for being,” says Annabel Thomas, founder
of Nc’nean Distillery. “A lot of it is about trust: That’s
what’s driven the change in beer and gin, and I believe
that’s what’s driving the change in whisky as well.” This

A picturesque view of Nc’nean Distillery.
Below left to right: Nc’nean’s distilling team;
the stillhouse; a delivery of wood chips arrive
to feed the distillery’s biomass boiler.
next-generation distiller hasn’t broken ranks moment mean that every bottle of scotch is “Sustainability is important to it, because it’s
with the tradition of daunting Gaelic names, great: It just means that every bottle of scotch important to me,” Thomas emphasizes. “The
however. Neachneohain means “queen of is quite similar to another one.” Thomas distillery is located in a very wild and natural
spirits” in Gaelic but, true to form, pronunci- points out that distillers in England and else- place, so we need to tread lightly.” Surrounded
ation is not as hard as it looks once you know where have more freedom to innovate, and by dense forest, Nc’nean invested in a biomass
how it’s done: Nc-NEE-an. she sees that creative competition as a mas- boiler that burns wood chips from local timber
Thomas converted vacant buildings on her sive risk to the future of scotch. It’s not any to provide energy for distillation. Thomas pays
parents’ farm in the west of Scotland, fulfill- particular regulation that Thomas finds re- a substantial premium to source organic bar-
ing a family dream to create a distillery. As strictive, more the general approach. “Exist- ley from 10 certified farms scattered up and
the project took shape, she toured Islay dis- ing large corporate interests dominate the down Scotland’s east coast. Organic farming
tilleries but was disheartened to hear the SWA, which is the fundamental problem. Its reduces barley’s significant carbon footprint
same message repeatedly: Whisky was being presence reduces creativity,” she says. “Basi- and encourages biodiversity. “You either think
made the same way as it always had been. “I cally, you’re not allowed to do anything that that’s important or you don’t, but being 100%
could see what was happening with whisky isn’t already being done. You’re taking on organic felt very important to me,” she says.
in the rest of the world, and felt it wasn’t corporates with massive marketing budgets Despite reports of challenges from distilleries
happening enough in Scotland,” she says. that small new distilleries don’t have in gen- that have undertaken organic production,
“One of the challenges is that scotch is so eral, but the good thing is it forces a more Thomas finds the local barley handles well
tightly regulated by the SWA [Scotch Whisky creative approach that can create more inter- and delivers respectable yields—close to 400
Association]. I think that limits creativity, and esting results for the whisky drinker.” liters of pure alcohol (lpa) per ton.
that’s a bad thing for moving the industry on. Nc’nean began distilling 100% organic spirit Nc’nean aims to make 100,000 lpa annu-
It’s not like the regulations on scotch at the in 2017, with sustainability front and center. ally, about 1/150 of Macallan Distillery’s

capacity, from two main recipes. One is de-
signed as a great young whisky with a shorter
maturation due to its blend of yeasts and high
cut points during distillation that exclude
feinty characteristics. The other is more
classic, using a narrower slice of the distillate,
designed to take longer to reach peak matu-
ration and develop more flavor complexity.
At Nc’nean even the waste products aren’t
discarded. The spent grain, or draff, goes to
cows for feed, the pot ale and other effluent is
suitable as fertilizer, and the ash from the bio-
mass boiler is spread on the vegetable garden.
Nc’nean has experimented with yeast
strains used for rum, red wine, chardonnay,
champagne, tequila, and cachaça. “It’s abso-
lutely amazing,” beams Thomas. “The rum
yeast produces pineapple flavors in the spirit,
and the red wine yeast produces lots of lovely
red fruits. We just haven’t answered how
much of the flavors will carry through into
the mature product yet.”
When Nc’nean advertised for a distillery The Isle of Raasay Distillery team (above)
manager, only men applied for the position. produces both unpeated and heavily peated
“I think that has ramifications—when con- whiskies; head distiller Iain Robertson (left).
sumers go ‘round distilleries and only see
men working there, that sends subliminal together like the Japanese?” he thought.
messages in terms of who drinks the prod- Another of Day’s ambitions—to grow bar-
uct,” Thomas notes. “If you talk to Heriot- ley on the island—was met by a local farmer
Watt [Scottish university with brewing and with a mixture of incredulity and pragma-
distilling courses] graduates, there is still bias tism. “He almost fell off his seat laughing,”
against women on the program going into admits Day. “‘It’ll grow,’ he told me, ‘but it
whisky.” Thomas was recently inundated by won’t ripen.’” Day became a convert to the
180 applications when she offered one-week importance of barley varieties after tasting
internships to encourage more women to the whiskies from the Bere barley trials for
take up production jobs in whisky, and her Bruichladdich and Arran, as well as Highland
message is clear: “If this is what you want to Park’s Tartan barley project, conducted with
do, you should do it.”
Nc’nean is currently finalizing its flagship
Isle of Raasay is a the help of Dr. Peter Martin from the Univer-
sity of the Highlands & Islands.
product, with plans to debut it in 2021. “It’s traditional Scottish The lure of a 100% Raasay whisky was
totally magical watching how much a spirit irresistible to Day, and Nordic countries with
changes if you add a drop more from this cask island distillery similar high rainfall and short ripening sea-
or that cask,” says Thomas, who has ruled out sons to the island helped to encourage him.
auctioning off the inaugural release in favor of channeling Japanese Barley explorations led to the current crop of
selling it at retail. “A lot of what we’re about is
trying to make whisky more accessible and
whisky-making Brage, a Norwegian six-row, and Iskria, an
Icelandic two-row. (The farmer was proved
less stuffy: Having bottles for $1,000 has the
opposite effect.”
sensibilities. right: Popular barley strains Concerto and
Golden Promise grew, but failed to ripen.)
Like the best Japanese distillers, Raasay
Island Life of paper,” explains Day. “In Scotland, each makes both unpeated and heavily peated
Isle of Raasay is a traditional Scottish island distillery has its own style, but we haven’t got a whiskies, which can also be blended together
distillery channeling Japanese whisky-making distillery that’s been here for 200 years.” The in the future for a lightly peated style.
sensibilities. Following some successful very notion of a single distillery style is rooted Longer-than-usual fermentations are respon-
adventures in blending with the Tweeddale in the business of blended scotch, when single sible for dark fruit flavors of cherry and
Blend in 2009, co-founder Alasdair Day found malt distillers aimed to supply a consistent blackcurrant. Yeasts typically used for grain
his ideal location for a distillery on Raasay, an product to their primary buyers, the big blend- whiskies and champagne are utilized to de-
island off an island (Skye) in the Hebrides ing houses. So Day drew inspiration from velop other key flavors.
without a history of legitimate distilling. another single malt nation. “What if we made It takes a distiller’s eye to spot some of
“We had the luxury of having a blank sheet different styles in one place and blended them Raasay’s more technical advances. Cooling

26 jackets are able to hold fermentation at a set
ISLANDS
temperature to produce flavorsome second-
ary compounds from the yeast. The yin and
yang of the lyne arms show a gentle decline
17 from the wash still, but an incline from the
24 14 Glen Wyvis
Dingwall spirit still that promotes reflux. There’s an-
14 Established 2015 other cooling jacket on the wash still lyne
10
18 6
8 glenwyvis.com arm, which if deployed ensures heavier com-
SPEYSIDE 15 Holyrood pounds are returned to the pot still. “It actu-
25
11 Edinburgh ally builds up more character in our heavily
Established 2019 peated spirit,” Day explains. A six-plate puri-
5 HIGHLANDS
holyrooddistillery.co.uk fier allows them to switch between a tradi-
22 3
16 Inchdairnie tional spirit still and a Carter-Head still
23
1 21 12
Glenrothes (typically used to produce gin). For the
Established 2014 whisky lover, the takeaway is boundless per-
19
16 inchdairniedistillery.com
mutations from a single distillery.
4 13 15 17 Isle of Harris “Twenty-five years ago, people were
9
Harris amazed at single malt scotch and thought
ISLAY Established 2015
about how to make it in their own countries
20 LOWLANDS harrisdistillery.com
7 and make it better,” says Day. “Now we
CAMPBELTOWN 18 Isle of Raasay should be looking at what they’ve done, and
Raasay
2
bring that back to scotch.”
Established 2016
raasaydistillery.com Day feels the SWA regulations offer him an
advantage over non-Scottish producers. “We
19 Kingsbarns
are absolutely working within the SWA regu-
FRESH OUT OF SCOTLAND

St Andrews
Established 2000 lations and we’re not going to try and step
kingsbarnsdistillery.com outside them because of how it protects
scotch. It does make scotch special and I
Scotch whisky distilleries established since 2010 20 Lagg
Arran think there are lots of approaches we can
Established 2017 take as a new, small, independent distillery.”
1 Aberargie 8 BrewDog laggwhisky.com Raasay’s core whisky is matured in rye
Perthshire (formerly Lone Wolf)
Established 2017 Ellon 21 Lindores Abbey barrels, red wine casks, and high-char, high-
No website Established 2016 Newburgh toast virgin Chinkapin oak casks. The latter,
brewdog.com Established 2017 Quercus muehlenbergeii, is an oak species that
2 Annandale lindoresabbeydistillery.com
Annan 9 The Clydeside delivers more dark fruit characteristics than
Established 2014 Glasgow 22 Nc’nean the vanilla typically produced from the ubiq-
annandaledistillery.com Established 2017 Drimnin uitous Quercus alba. Raasay’s warehouses
theclydeside.com Established 2017 also feature bordeaux wine casks from Châ-
3 Arbikie ncnean.com
Inverkeilor 10 Dalmunach teau Calon-Ségur, Château Margaux, and
Established 2013 Carron 23 Strathearn Château Palmer, along with bourbon and
arbikie.com Established 2015 Methven manzanilla sherry casks in order to take full
No website Established 2013
4 Ardnahoe advantage of the color, depth, and complexity
strathearndistillery.com
Islay 11 Deeside of flavors created by the cask and its former
Established 2018 (formerly Twin River) 24 Thompson Bros. contents.
ardnahoedistillery.com Banchory Dornoch
The distillery opened in 2017, but if Day
Established 2017 Established 2016
5 Ardnamurchan deesidedistillery.net thompsonbrosdistillers. could give advice to his younger self, it would
Acharacle be to build the distillery 10 years ago. The inau-
com
Established 2014 12 Eden Mill gural release and the Raasay individual cask
adelphidistillery.com St Andrews 25 Torabhaig
Established 2012 Skye offer are available at raasaydistillery.com, with
6 Ballindalloch edenmill.com Established 2017 the core malt slated for spring 2021.
Ballindalloch
torabhaig.com
Established 2013 13 Glasgow
ballindallochdistillery.com Glasgow 26 Wolfburn Fruit Machine
Established 2014 Thurso In an area rich with Scotland’s finest links
7 The Borders glasgowdistillery.com Established 2013 courses, Kingsbarns Distillery sits six miles
Hawick
wolfburn.com from St Andrews, the “home of golf.” It was
Established 2018
thebordersdistillery.com the brainchild of local caddy Doug Clement,
who noted that his golfers frequently wanted
Map does not include existing distillery expansions, distillery to visit a distillery but were flummoxed that
TOURS OFFERED resurrections, grain distilleries, experimental distilleries, or rebuilds. none existed within a 50-mile radius.

Kingsbarns distillery manager
Peter Holroyd takes a hands-on
approach to distillation.
Independent bottler Wemyss Malts lovely tropical fruit,” says Holroyd.

joined the venture in 2012, bringing
blending and bottling expertise as Kingsbarns is now one of the “We also fill Portuguese red wine STR
[shave, toast, re-char] casks, which
well as the requisite funds, and the
distillery is now one of the front-
front-runners in the revitalized gives quite complex flavors of plum
wine and herbal notes.”
runners in the revitalized Lowlands
region, known for its floral and
Lowlands region, known for its The distillery’s first generally
available release, Kingsbarns Dream
elegant whiskies. floral and elegant whiskies. to Dram, comprises 90% first-fill
“You don’t just start a distillery by bourbon and 10% STR casks. “The
plumbing things together, pressing a nose is like a candy store, with tropi-
button, and waiting to see what comes out possibility of extremely tall stills. Its work- cal fruit, pineapple, a bit of icing sugar,” says
the other side,” says Peter Holroyd, Kings- around was to install relatively horizontal Holroyd. “The STR casks deliver richness on
barns distillery manager. “Every aspect has lyne arms to increase the copper contact en the palate, a little bit of sourness mid-palate,
been meticulously planned, from the raw route to the condenser. “We take our time and a hint of ginger on the finish.”
materials [and] the production process to the with distillation and run our stills slowly,” Regardless of their inventiveness, distill-
engineering of the plant.” This starts with shares Holroyd, noting that rather than auto- eries like Kingsbarns share the traits of pride
locally grown barley and clear wort from the mation, distillation adjustments are made by and authenticity inherent to veteran scotch
mash tun to enable the development of fruity hand. “We’ve got a very high spirit cut point, distillers. “If you’re a relatively small pro-
esters courtesy of two yeast strains, with as we’re really just targeting the top of what ducer like us, it pays to make a premium prod-
Fermentis Lesaffre yeast boosting the pro- is coming off the still.” uct,” says Holroyd. He is even getting out of
duction of fruity top notes and complexity. Kingsbarns is shooting for 200,000 lpa, the distillery occasionally to proudly pour the
Due to its location in a historic 18th-century which equates to filling around 34 barrels a whisky at tastings. Despite its youth, it’s im-
building, Kingsbarns was not permitted to week. “We put our new make predominantly pressing even skeptical scotch lovers. After
construct anything higher than the tallest into first-fill bourbon casks from Heaven Hill all, he’s offering a taste of single malt scotch
point of the original structure, ruling out the Distillery, which consistently give us vanilla and unlike anything they’ve experienced before.

V
irag Saksena had already been Francisco sourdough,” he says, and creates a
brewing beer for a couple decades “rich, fruity” new-make spirit.
when, in 2011, he began dreaming Like most Scottish single malt, 10th Street’s
up a plan to make American single peated whiskey is matured in used bourbon
malt that could stand up to the barrels “to tone down the oak elements and
finest whiskies from Scotland and [allow] the more delicate notes from the malt
Japan. “In order to do that, the first step was to shine through, something which is lost
to understand how the old masters made it,” when you use fresh wood,” Saksena says.
Saksena says. He traveled to the source of the Craft distillers chart the However, San Jose’s warm climate acceler-
big peated malt whiskies he most adored, ates the process of barrel maturation. “The
apprenticing at an Islay distillery before he
course to an exciting new hot weather makes the angels really greedy,”
and business partner Vishal Gauri—both world of single malts Saksena quips, referring to the costly loss of
engineers—opened 10th Street Distillery in an liquid from the barrel to evaporation. “Our
industrial part of San Jose, California in 2017. BY ZAK KOSTRO angels’ share is several times what you’d see
Using a pair of 500-gallon copper pot stills in Scotland. Luckily, the temperature is just
that are dwarfed by their lofty 6,500-square- that is hard, you have to [use] grain that is right, where even though aging happens STAN OLSZEWSKI / SOSKIPHOTO
foot space, they’re making peated and more acidic,” Saksena explains. “In our case, faster, it remains a mellow whiskey. It doesn’t
unpeated malt whiskey that is rooted in the peated grain, which is acidic, works well pick up any harsh flavors from the wood.”
European tradition, but with unmistakable with our water, which comes from Sierra Each of these factors plays a role in creat-
California provenance. Nevada snowmelt.” They also open their ing a distinctive whiskey Saksena describes
To make their peated whiskey, Saksena and fermentation tanks to allow the local micro- as “clean and complex,” less aggressively
Gauri use San Jose’s alkaline, mineral-rich flora to enter and interact with the mash, peated than a brawny Ardbeg or Lagavulin.
water for mashing and fermentation, combin- introducing a distinct sense of place that “We’ve stayed away from elements that
ing it with custom-peated malt sourced from Saksena calls “Bay Area terroir.” This makes would [exert] a heavy influence” on the
the Highlands of Scotland. “If you have water for a “tart wash reminiscent of the famed San whiskey’s flavor, he explains. “And the way

10th Street Distillery partners
Vishal Gauri (left) and Virag
Saksena make whiskey following
European tradition, yet steeped
in California provenance.
we’re distilling it, we get nice fruity cuts. So full-blown movement in the U.S., with more definition that is largely very similar to the
you’re getting all of these flavors, but in than 160 producers across the country distill- Scotch Whisky Association’s,” which stipu-
moderation, balancing each other out. It’s an ing from 100% barley. (To add to the confu- lates, among other criteria, that it must be
easy-drinking whiskey, similar to the easy- sion, American regulations list a definition made from 100% malted barley, in a pot still,
going spirit of California.” A taste of this for malt whiskey, which requires at least 51% at only one distillery.
highly original whiskey, and others like it, malted barley and maturation in new charred “We’re trying to make it our own,” says
may be the best way to put your finger on oak barrels.) master distiller Lance Winters of Alameda,
the emerging style, given that there is not California’s St. George Spirits, one of Ameri-
yet a legal definition of what constitutes Defining the Future can single malt’s earliest pioneers. “One of
American single malt. The American Single Malt Whiskey Commis- the things for me that defines America is
That lack of formality has not prevented sion, a group of 160 or so craft distillers from being able to do something that’s a little dif-
single malt whiskey from becoming a around the country, is rallying behind a ferent. There hasn’t been a single malt tradi-
formal petition to define the style—made tion in the United States, so it was an
from 100% malted barley, distilled at a single opportunity to create our own tradition for
Striving to Define distillery, made and aged in the U.S.—and an American single malt.”
their proposal has been under review by the Winters, who came to St. George in 1996
American Single Malt Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau after working as a brewer, saw the potential for
(TTB) for over a year. This proposal em- greater flavor variety by distilling from barley
T
he American Single Malt
Whiskey Commission braces some of the most important tenets of roasted to different levels. “Look at a very tradi-
was founded by nine
distilleries in 2016 and has since grown
Virag Saksena
to include some 160 craft distillers from distills both
around the country who seek to peated and
establish a standard of identity for unpeated
American single malt. “What’s most single malt at
his San Jose,
important is that the industry at large—
California
the trade, the retailers, the bars and distillery.
restaurants of the world, and ultimately
consumers—starts to recognize this
category,” commission president Steve
Hawley says. “We want consumers to
have confidence that what they’re
picking up off the shelf, what they think
is in that bottle, is actually in that
bottle.”
The commission’s proposed definition
stipulates that American single malt be:
• made from 100% malted barley

• distilled entirely at one distillery
• mashed, distilled, and matured in
the U.S.
single malt scotch, while leaving room for
• matured in oak casks with a volume
no larger than 700 liters
• distilled to no more than 80% ABV
creativity by omitting requirements like
minimum aging times or cask types, other The American Single Malt
• bottled at 40% ABV or higher
than that the whiskey be matured in oak
casks no larger than 700 liters. Whiskey Commission is
Comparatively, the Scotch Whisky
Regulations of 2009 dictate more
“Single malt whisky is inherently interest-
ing because of its diversity,” says American rallying behind a formal
specifics for single malt scotch whisky,
including pot still distillation, a minimum
Single Malt Whiskey Commission president
Steve Hawley. American single malt in partic- petition to define the style. STAN OLSZEWSKI / SOSKIPHOTO
of three years’ maturation, and the ular promises “a lot of creativity and innova-
prohibition of certain cask types. tion,” he adds. “You’ve got 160 distilleries [in tional Scottish brand, and it’s either pale malt
Furthermore, all scotch must retain the the commission] in a country that’s enor- or smoked malt, and that’s it,” Winters says.
characteristics of its raw materials and mously larger than Scotland. There’s a wide “There’s no range to that.” With his brewing
production and maturation methods—a range of climates and styles that are emerg- background, he recognized the bold aromatics
stipulation often interpreted as the ing. We’re also living in a country that’s and flavors in beer made from more heavily
means to ensure that the whisky retain largely free from the chains of tradition and roasted grains and started experimenting with
“traditional” flavors and aromas. convention. That allows us to explore single them to make whiskey. “We’ve got crystal
malts in a different way—even within a malts, chocolate malt, black patent malt,

hardwood-smoked malt,” Winters says, rattling
off ingredients familiar to fans of German lager,
English porter, and Irish stout. St. George ages
its whiskeys for various amounts of time in
casks that held bourbon, port, sherry, and Cali-
fornia sauternes-style wine, among others, to
further broaden the flavor spectrum. “We’re
definitely shifting the profile,” Winters adds.
Stranahan’s—said to be Colorado’s first
legal distillery since Prohibition—opened in
Denver in 2004, building a portfolio of Ameri-
can single malts and gaining a cult following
for limited-edition releases like Snowflake, a
special blend of different ages and maturation
profiles that changes annually. Head distiller
Owen Martin, who took over from longtime
master distiller Rob Dietrich in 2019, is tack-
ling the chance to leave his fingerprint on a
still-developing whiskey style. “You have the
entrenched institutions of bourbon and
scotch, and American single malt is kind of
finding its way in between those two and
building itself up,” Martin says. “We can take
cues from what we like about both of those
industries and incorporate that into this new
category.”
Similar to St. George, the Stranahan’s house
style draws inspiration from craft brewing,
experimenting with a variety of specialty
malts—including black, caramel, and choco-
late—that Martin says lend the whiskey “a
whole other source of flavors that you don’t Top: St. George Spirits master
see in most scotch.” Meanwhile, ample stocks distiller Lance Winters’ brew-
aging at Stranahan’s allow him to tinker with ing background informs
his whiskey’s mashbill. Below:
the intensity of oak influence in the whiskey’s
Stranahan’s in Colorado has
flavor by considering the amount of time the gained a cult following for its
liquid spends resting in new wood. Matura- limited-edition single malts.
tion starts in new charred oak barrels, the
same as those used for bourbon and rye whis-
key. “But what I play with is how long we
leave the whiskey in that initial barrel,” Mar-
tin says. “Because the longer we leave it in
there, the more bourbon-y flavors we get—
wood sugars, caramel, vanilla. The amount of
time before we decide to take it out and ei-
ther put it in finishing barrels or bottle it—
that’s where we’re defining what American
single malt means.” Leaving the spirit in new
charred oak for four years, for example, al-
lows the malt character to shine through
without barrel flavors taking over. “Then
we’ll put it into wine barrels or other whiskey
barrels, which won’t give all that oak extrac-
tive, but allow the malt flavor to carry on
TOP: MATT SALVO
while adding more nuance to it.”

Virginia Distillery Co. in Lovingston began
distilling single malt in 2015 and, while wait-
ing for it to mature, has offered a series of
cask-finished whiskeys that combine the

company’s own-make single malt with malt handful of American single malt producers).
whiskies sourced from Scotland’s Highlands. “The inside of the cask has been shaved to a
The delightfully original Cider Cask Finished very precise layer,” Moore notes. “It’s deep
ranked No. 13 in Whisky Advocate’s 2018 Top enough that it’s getting to wood that hasn’t
20. More recently, Virginia Distillery Co.’s previously been toasted, but also not so deep
Prelude: Courage & Conviction American that it [eliminates] the influence of the wine.”
single malt—a limited-release preview of the When the cooper toasts and re-chars the
10
fully mature single malt—scored 90 points in barrels, it “creates this really nice crust that
American Single Malts the Buying Guide. The whiskey is malt-for- brings out a lot of the sugars in the wood—
to Try Now ward, with layers of fruit, nut, spice, and honey
flavors. The 91-rated Courage & Conviction
even more so than just a regular char, because
it’s not just the wood that’s being toasted—it’s
93 Balcones Brujeria Sherry George G. Moore batch, just released in April, the wine.” These cuvée casks can impart
Cask-Finished (Batch 18-1) shows lemon and orange oil, guava, kiwi, dried intense flavors into the whiskey in as little as
62.9% • $130 leaves, nutty tobacco, and peppery spice. two or three years—a significantly shorter
Raisins and dried chile on the nose, a full, Instead of incorporating a multitude of period of time than aging in bourbon or
tannic palate, and dark chocolate on different malt types, Virginia Distillery Co. sherry casks—so Moore and the distillery
the finish. focuses on mashing, fermentation, and matu- team keep close watch on the liquid as it
91 Virginia Distillery Co. Courage & ration, while leveraging the state’s climate— matures. “You’re always looking for balance,
Conviction (George G. Moore Batch) hot and humid in the summer, but often and don’t want the STR cask to overpower the
46% • $75 below freezing in the winter—to produce a fragile distillate,” Moore adds. “Malted barley
Lemon and orange oil, guava, kiwi, dried single malt whiskey that shines in its com- has a lot of very delicate flavors, and we want
leaves, nutty tobacco, and peppery spice, plexity and balance. “Rather than insulating that to shine through in the final product.”
with a gentle, slow-fading finish. ourselves from the wild temperature swings
90 Stranahan’s Sherry Cask in Virginia, we end up embracing them,” CEO Grappling for Consensus
(Batch 004) 47% • $80 Gareth Moore says. “That’s kind of the easy The American Single Malt Whiskey Commis-
Milk chocolate Toblerone, grape soda, part—letting the climate do its thing. In warm sion hopes to secure a formal definition for
raspberry coulis, candied ginger, almonds, maturation environments, there’s going to be the style “within a year,” Hawley says,
Fig Newtons, and drying oak. a lot of influence from the cask in a shorter although when that could actually happen
90 Westland Garryana (Batch 4|1) period of time than in a traditional climate remains decidedly uncertain. “It’s out of our
50% • $150 like Scotland. The more complex part is hands at this point and up to the TTB,” he
A gentle nose precedes a rich, robust working with our distillate to match those adds.
palate with nuts and mocha, and a short temperature swings.” Because difference of opinion is a corner-
but satisfying finish. Virginia Distillery Co. uses a longer mash- stone of American discourse, not every dis-
89 10th Street 46% • $65 ing cycle to create a clearer wort and elimi- tiller has embraced the commission’s
Briny, with rubbery, mineral peat on the nate cereal flavors from the husks of the grain proposed definition. Among them is Winters,
nose, a sweet and savory palate, and a carrying through to distillation. It also uses who believes it’s too soon to establish strict
nutty finish. two different yeast strains and short, high- regulations. “I think that we need to have a
89 Hillrock Estate (Barrel No. temperature fermentations to drive the de- longer period of experimentation, innovation,
OPX-30) 48.2% • $105 velopment of fruit and floral esters, with a and exploration before we say firmly, ‘This is
A vibrant nose of baby back ribs and sweet flavor profile, before aging the spirit in what [American single malt] has to be,’” Win-
grilled corn; finishes with lingering three different cask types: bourbon, sherry, ters says. “There might be [distillers] coming
savory smoke. and what Moore calls cuvée. First-fill bour- up with really brilliant ideas and beautiful
88 McCarthy’s Oregon bon barrels impart a mellower flavor than executions that would make the category
(Batch W13-01) 42.5% • $55 new charred oak, Moore says, but still more even more valid and vibrant, and…they get
Bold peat with creamy malt leads to a robust than typically found in single malt cut out of the party” if the commission’s
refined finish. scotch. “If you’re sending barrels to Scotland, proposed guidelines were ratified. “A far
88 Whiskey Del Bac Dorado it doesn’t make sense to ship empty air across more valuable regulation for us as distillers
45% • $56 the ocean, so they’re [often] broken down and [and for consumers] is one that just insists on
Dripping with barbecue flavors; cayenne, re-coopered on the other side,” Moore ex- transparency—‘This is how a product is
walnuts, and spiced ginger balanced with plains. “But if you’re sending them one state made, this is what it’s made from, and this is STAN OLSZEWSKI / SOSKIPHOTO
apples, oranges, and pears. over,” from neighboring Kentucky, they arrive who makes it,’” Winters adds.
87 St. George (Lot 19) 43% • $100 intact. “That means they’re a little bit fresher, A single malt, whether defined by the
Chocolate-covered marshmallows, plums, with more of the bourbon influence, sweeter Scotch Whisky Regulations or the American
nectarines, and hot cocoa with whipped notes that would otherwise dry out.” commission’s proposed standard of identity,
cream. The cuvée casks, sourced from European can come from only one distillery—that’s the
87 Westward 45% • $80 red wine makers, have been shaved, toasted, “single” part. So it’s not surprising that High
Creamed honey, caramel, and candied and re-charred (the process is known as STR, West master distiller Brendan Coyle ignited
nuts balance big vanilla from new and such casks are used by dozens of distill- debate when he asserted that the distillery’s
charred oak. eries around the world, including at least a High Country American single malt—its first

Virginia Distillery Co. owners
Gareth and Maggie Moore began
distilling single malt in 2015.
100% malt whiskey, a complex blend of three we should differentiate a little more for Amer-
different recipes across three different barrel
finishes—is still a single malt, despite the fact “Single malt whisky is ican single malt, open it up a bit, and allow the
opportunity for some more innovation and
that the liquid was made at two different
sites. High West’s production is spread inherently interesting blending. It’s very important that we have a
definition that does not allow third-party
across two distilleries—its Park City, Utah
saloon and its ranch facility in nearby Wan- because of its diversity.” [sourced whiskey] to go into a single malt. But
I do think that having the versatility of using
ship. Each operates under a separate distilled —STEVE HAWLEY, PRESIDENT OF THE different plants,” provided they belong to the
AMERICAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY COMMISSION
spirits plant license, and High Country in- same distillery, “would be a great addition to
cludes whiskeys from both sites. While some the definition. That’s where [the commission
would say that makes High Country a While Coyle says High West shares “most and High West] kind of differ.”
blended malt rather than a single malt, Coyle views” with the commission, he also believes Even without an official definition locked
disagrees. All the liquid “is coming from there’s room for “robust discussion” when it in, Saksena sees the road ahead as unequivo-
100% High West Distillery-owned facilities,” comes to establishing an official designation cally auspicious—for 10th Street and other
he said when High Country debuted last for American single malt. “High West is a craft distillers who are charting the course
RON RAMMELKAMP
December. “They’re really one and the same. blender and a producer,” Coyle explains. for American single malt whiskey. “We’re
In a way, it’s like running two different reci- “Blending is a very important part of the artis- trying to create something based on our ter-
pes in one location—just happens to be two tic nature of what we do. For the most part, I roir,” Saksena says. “Rich, complex, flavorful
different locations, but controlled by the one think that aligning with Scotland’s definition whiskeys which are not bound by what the
driving force.” of single malt is a benefit. But I do think that normal conventions have been.”

VOLUME 29, NUMBER 2 • SUMMER 2020
Ireland’s Midleton Distillery’s

three 75,000-liter pot stills.
BUYING GUIDE
I
n the whisky world, “finished” refers to mezcal casks, an 87-point bargain at $22. 85 WA Selections
whiskies that undergo a second matura- Bardstown Bourbon Co. racks up 92 points with
tion in a distinct type of cask to add a final its bourbon finished in The Prisoner wine
86 Scotland
layer of flavor. They are a familiar topic barrels, while Sagamore Spirit Calvados Cask- 88 United States
around Whisky Advocate and on page 41 we look Finished rye rated 91 points. Other whiskies 91 Canada
at distillers that are using multiple specialty have been finished with various beers (including
finishing casks on the same whisky. dark stout), port, brandy, Pedro Ximénez sherry, 92 Ireland
This practice may seem excessive, but our and even umeshu, in the case of a 92-point 93 Japan
ratings bear witness to the success of whisky Canadian whisky finished in barrels seasoned
93 World Whiskies
IRISH DISTILLERS
finishes. No style of whisky, and no empty cask, with the Japanese plum liqueur: WhistlePig The
seem immune to distillers and their penchant for Boss Hog VI (see Collectibles, page 85).
creative finishing. Among the finished whiskies While there is a lot to feast on in every Buying
you’ll discover sprinkled throughout the Buying Guide, we can always count on finished whiskies
Guide are Dewar’s blended scotch finished in to add some spice and an element of surprise.

BUYING GUIDE
WHISKY ADVOCATE SELECTIONS

Best Values Editors’ Choice Collectibles
Whiskies with solid scores, modest This issue’s most impressive whiskies Whiskies that are generally limited releases
prices, and wide availability. considering score, price, and availability. and show the most potential to gain in value.
BOURBON RYE IRISH SINGLE MALT

91 Early Times Bottled in 93 Elijah Craig 94 Midleton Very Rare
Bond Kentucky Straight, Kentucky Straight, Silent Distillery Collection
50%, $25/liter 47%, $30 Chapter One,
Delightfully rich on the nose, A welcome addition to the 51.2%, $35,000
with grape jelly, raspberries, Elijah Craig family, this rye has Powerfully smoky for 45 years old,
Raisinets, buttered pecans, rock-solid heft and flavor that with charcoal, burnt turf, smoked
toffee, dark chocolate, baking doesn’t quit. The nose swells venison, dark chocolate, Brazil-nut
spice, leather, and the old oak with cooked blackberries and dark toffee, roasted chestnut, and a
smell of a rickhouse. Chewy and raspberries, fruit leather, iced hint of smoked haddock. Thick
viscous, the palate shows tea, cola, and stately oak. It’s golden syrup, peppery spice, and
excellent consistency, balancing chewy and viscous on the vanilla caramel; the peat smoke is
raisins, Concord grape jelly, palate, with more berries and grapes (often heavier initially, then fades and darts between
baking spice, and dark chocolate with coffee jammy), well-integrated oak, dark chocolate, other flavors. Toasted oak, dark sugars, cocoa,
bean, cola, and lush oak. A lengthy and and lush spice. The finish rides a long way on and smoke finish an incredible sip of Irish
elegant finish highlights mocha, grape skins, peppery dark fruit, wet walnuts, dark choco- whiskey liquid history. (48 bottles)—JM
cinnamon, black pepper, and rich oak.—SSB late, and rich oak.—SSB
CANADA
INDIA SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT
92 WhistlePig The Boss
89 Paul John Nirvana, 92 Benromach Hog VI: The Samurai
40%, $30 10 year old, 43%, $60 Scientist Umeshu Barrel-
What I love about this is that it’s This expression was distilled from Finished Rye (Barrel 8),
fresh and fruity with plenty of malt peated to 12 to 14 ppm, and 60.3%, $500
zip. The nose has hard candy, aged for 9 years in 80% bourbon Made using ko-ji during fermenta-
fresh laundry, floral notes, apple, and 20% sherry casks before a tion and finished in barrels
and peach puree. A fruit medley final year in more sherry casks. seasoned with umeshu, a plum
with nectarine, pear, and Sweet smoke on the early nose, liqueur. Earthy and a bit mysteri-
satsuma, followed by vanilla, with malt, vanilla, quite dry sherry, ous, with sandalwood incense,
lime, almond, and five spice, apple, and toffee. Smoky barley, cedar smoke, eucalyptus, barrel
becoming more rounded, with vanilla, subtle sherry, and light char, and sweet aromas of vanilla taffy, key lime
apple and fudge and a spiced honey on the palate. Peaches, pie, and lemon oil. There’s a lot of dry oak on the
citrus finish.—JM ginger, and woodsmoke on the palate, but it’s balanced with chewy herbs,
medium-length finish. Very accomplished.—GS lapsang souchong tea, pistachio, orange peel,
milk chocolate, fennel, and peppery spice. The
BLENDED MALT SCOTCH
finish is long, spiced, and herbal, with licorice,
88 Jane Walker, BOURBON
mint, eucalyptus, and dry oak.—SSB
41.9%, $38 92 Bulleit Blender’s
Unlike the Jane Walker package Select Kentucky Straight
SINGLE GRAIN SCOTCH
for Johnnie Walker Black Label (Batch 001), 50%, $50
released in 2018, this is a new The nose shows great maturity, 91 The Last Drop
whisky altogether, a blend of with varnish, leather couch, Single Grain 1977
various malts aged at least 10 black cherry syrup, dark (distilled at Dumbarton),
years, including Cardhu and chocolate, and wet walnuts. 48.4%, $3,000
Clynelish. The nose is floral and There’s a pleasant tartness to Fresh pear, grilled banana, chile
gently nutty, with rose water, the palate, like just-ripe cherries, oil, cardamom, brown sugar, oak
salted almonds, green apple, along with the richness of sawdust, vanilla, snuff tobacco,
nougat, and caramel chews. chocolate torte, blackberry jam, birch syrup, and peppery crackers on the nose.
Light-bodied and silky in the Concord grape jelly, and leathery oak. It Light vanilla and caramelized
mouth, it has bright flavors of lime, lemon, finishes with lengthy cherry syrup, high-end brown sugar, then mouth-drawing
vanilla, and coconut, before edging into nutty dark chocolate, and more varnish and with apple and lemon peel. A spicy buildup spills
milk chocolate and finishing with good length, leather.—SSB into banana peel and banoffee pie; the mouth-
and a final savory note.—SSB feel gains weight over time. Smooth, sweet,
caramel finish. (150 bottles)—JM

BUYING GUIDE
Scotland CAMPBELTOWN SINGLE MALT with wood fire ashes. Somewhat oily on the
90 Glen Scotia Victoriana, 51.5%, $82 palate, where sweet peat begins to dry, along
SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT This was matured in a combination of first-fill with oranges, apricots, and marshmallows. The
92 Benromach 10 year old, 43%, $60 and refill bourbon casks before 70% was finish is relatively long, with vanilla and fresh
See Editors’ Choice, page 85 finished in deeply charred casks and 30% in oak dipped in hot tar.—GS
first-fill Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Char is
90 Benromach 15 year old, 43%, $100 apparent on the nose, along with pineapple, 85 Glen Scotia Double Cask, 46%, $40
This spent 9 years in a combination of wood polish, blackcurrants, and a sprinkling of Initially aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, then
bourbon and sherry casks, then 6 years in sea salt. Oily on the palate, with dark berry finished in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. On the
first-fill European oak oloroso casks. Sherry is fruits, sherry, crème brûlée, and oak. The finish nose, ripe peaches, apricots, vanilla, caramel,
to the fore on the nose, with apple pie, honey, is spicy, with charred maritime oak.—GS and mildly smoky sherry surface. The slightly
vanilla, black pepper, and ultimately pipe viscous palate offers more sherry, wood spices,
tobacco. A viscous and rich palate, with more 89 Glen Scotia 15 year old, 46%, $60 cinnamon, salted caramel, oak, peanuts, and a
apple pie and vanilla, while the sherry is drier, After initial maturation in bourbon casks, this hint of salt. The finish is medium in length,
with new leather and woodsmoke. Salted expression underwent a 2-month finish in herbal, and drying, with sea salt.—GS
caramel and spicy oak on the finish.—GS first-fill oloroso sherry casks. Initially it offers
char, then ginger, honey, and sweet smoke on
ISLAY SINGLE MALT
90 Benromach Organic 2011 the nose, with apricot tarts and toffee. The 92 Bruichladdich 25 year old Black
(Bottled 2019), 43%, $70 palate is quite earthy and peppery, with stone Art 1994 (Edition 07.1), 48.4%, $430
First released in 2006, this expression was fruit, cinnamon, sea salt, and light smokiness. The nose reveals blackcurrant, damsons, black
distilled from organically certified barley and Medium length in the finish, with citrus fruit pepper, dark sherry, coconut, and nougat. Very
aged in virgin oak casks. Spicy new oak and and salty oak.—GS smooth on the palate, quite full, with early oak,
subtle smoke on the nose, with white pepper, then leather, tropical fruits, honey, and resin
bananas, cereal, and cut grass. The palate is 87 Glen Scotia 10 year old Peated, notes from old component whiskies. A long
oily, with more pepper, hazelnuts dipped in 50%, $55 finish, with mango, raisin, hazelnut, and lots of
honey, and tropical fruits. Vanilla and toffee on Sweet peat on the early nose, with pineapple, spice. Complex and intriguing. (12,000
the slowly drying finish.—GS toffee apples, and coconut. Slightly savory, bottles)—GS
ABOUT THE BUYING GUIDE

REVIEWERS
Our reviewers cover the following territories. (Reviewers are
The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the
indicated by their initials at the end of the individual reviews.)
world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in
the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring Davin de Kergommeaux (DdeK) has been writing about Canadian
84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower whisky for over 15 years. Canada
scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and David Fleming (DF) has more than 25 years of professional whisky
some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. tasting experience and leads coverage of the spirits industry as
executive editor of Market Watch, Shanken’s Impact Newsletter, and
R AT I N G S A N D P R I C E S
Shanken News Daily. Staff reviewer
Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference
to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Jeffery Lindenmuth (JL) is the executive editor of Whisky Advocate.
Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices He has been a full-time writer and reviewer of beer, spirits, and wine
shown reflect the suggested retail price. When none is available, we for over 15 years. Staff reviewer
establish a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Jonny McCormick (JM) is a contributing editor for Whisky Advocate.
Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky He resides in Scotland. Blended scotch, blended malts, grain, Irish
priced in other currency is not presently available in the U.S. whiskey, Japan, and world whisky
F E AT U R E D W H I S K I E S Susannah Skiver Barton (SSB) is a senior whisky specialist and digital

editor for Whisky Advocate. She has been writing about whisky for
Groups of similar whiskies sometimes appear as a special focus and
over 5 years. Staff reviewer
Whisky Advocate Selections are highlights of the issue’s reviews.
These selections and accompanying images are for editorial Gavin D Smith (GS) is based in the Scottish Borders and has
purposes only and are not the result of any commercial transaction contributed to Whisky Advocate for more than 20 years. Speyside,
between Whisky Advocate and the producers. Islay, Highlands, Lowlands, Campbeltown, and Islands single malt
95-100 90-94 85-89 80-84 75-79 50-74

Classic: a great Outstanding: a Very good: a whisky Good: a solid, well- Mediocre: a drink- Not recommended
whisky whisky of superior with special qualities made whisky able whisky that may
character and style have minor flaws

BUYING GUIDE
HIGHLAND SINGLE MALT the nose. Slightly savory on the smooth palate, BLENDED SCOTCH
91 Glenmorangie 15 year old with sweet peat smoke, honey, dark chocolate, 93 Royal Salute 29 year old
The Cadboll Estate, 43%, $85 and a very mild maritime note. Ginger, apricot, Pedro Ximénez Sherry Cask-
This was produced from barley grown on the and more sweet peat in the finish.—GS Finished, 40%, $549
distillery’s Cadboll Estate and matured for 15 This second release in the Flask Collection
years in first-fill bourbon casks. Soft malt, 87 anCnoc Rascan, 46%, $90 epitomizes deft management of PX finishing to
ginger, honey, tangerines, and rose petals on One of anCnoc’s peated expressions, Rascan’s produce an opulent treat. Honey and sherry
the pleasing, harmonious nose. Rounded on the barley was peated to 11.1 ppm, and aged in notes, chunks of fruit-and-nut chocolate, melting
palate, with malt, more honey, white chocolate, bourbon barrels for what the distiller caramel, plummy fruit, chocolate-covered
fudge, and tangy citrus notes. Citrus fruit, describes as “nearly a decade.” The nose raisins, refined dry spices, and stimulating
vanilla, and cocoa powder on the finish—GS gives sweet smoke, with ripe peaches and a peppercorn notes as the whisky warms. Thick
hint of barbecue. Vanilla emerges, and the and luxurious texture with vanilla, caramel,
90 anCnoc 24 year old, 46%, $250 aroma becomes floral. Apples, vanilla fudge, Seville orange, plum pudding, crème caramel,
This veteran from Knockdhu Distillery has been and peat smoke on the palate. The smoke crystallized citrus, and melted chocolate, with a
aged in a combination of bourbon and sherry dries slowly, with citrus fruit giving way to lightly spicy, sweet caramel finish.—JM
casks. The nose is rich and inviting, with apricots oak and chile.—GS
in syrup, marzipan, caramel, and new-mown hay. 87 Dewar’s 8 year old Ilegal Smooth
Voluptuous in the mouth, with tangy fruits, 87 Glenglassaugh Evolution, 50%, $55 Mezcal Cask-Finished, 40%, $22
barley sugar, cinnamon, sherry, and ultimately This is the second edition of Evolution, first Double-aged with a finish in Ilegal reposado
coffee grounds. An oaky finish with cocoa released in 2013, and the ABV has been mezcal casks, it has a zesty nose with plenty
powder, white pepper, and lemon juice.—GS reduced from 57.2% to 50%. Like the first, it of bite: lime, cut grass, new bookbindings,
was matured in first-fill Tennessee whiskey grapefruit juice, and lilies. The glutinous
90 anCnoc Vintage 2001, 46%, $100 barrels. The nose gives vanilla, ginger, honey, mouthfeel has more mezcal influence, with dull
Matured in a mix of sherry casks and bourbon tropical fruits, and milk chocolate, plus a floral fruit, herbal features, caramel, a snarl of
barrels for over 15 years, the nose is floral and note. More vanilla, milky coffee, oak, honey, pepper and chile flakes, and lengthy smoke
fruity, with honeysuckle, nectarines, malt, and toffee, and pineapple on the oily palate. Spicy and spice to finish. A bold creation, but I’m
soft spices. Very smooth and creamy on the caramel in the finish.—GS going to need more persuasion that this
palate, with apple pie, butterscotch, honey, enhances the scotch.—JM
and tangerines, combining with dried fruits. 87 Crabbie’s Yardhead, 40%, $25
Citrus fruit and spicy milk chocolate in the John Crabbie & Co is in the process of
BLENDED MALT SCOTCH
medium-length finish.—GS returning whisky distilling to Leith, Edinburgh, 92 Blackadder Puff Adder
but in the meantime it has launched this single (Batch PA 01), 46%, $75
90 Glen Garioch 12 year old, 48%, $60 malt from an unspecified Highlands distillery. The nose starts with caramel-coated short-
This was aged in a mix of bourbon and sherry The nose is light and youthful, with vanilla, bread sprinkled with sea salt, then opens to
casks. The nose yields Jaffa orange, plums, apple peel, peanuts, and developing mild oak. reveal crushed almonds, raspberry jam, grilled
sherry, malt, and vanilla. Ginger, honey, more Clean and straightforward on the palate, with pineapple, and a whiff of sweet peat smoke.
orange, dried fruit, and toasted oak on the full more apple, butterscotch, and cinnamon spice. Those raspberries explode on the palate, which
palate. The finish is relatively long, with spicy Spicy oak in the medium length finish. Perfect is fruity and sweet but counterbalanced by
orange and oak. Complex and satisfying.—GS for cocktails.—GS brine, nuts, and smoke. The texture is oily and a
bit waxy, mouth-coating and lush without being
90 Glen Garioch 1797 Founder’s 85 Glenglassaugh Revival, 46%, $55 heavy: a slithering snake indeed, and pure
Reserve, 48%, $45 A combination of first-fill and refill bourbon elegance. (500 bottles for the U.S.)—SSB
Butterscotch, vanilla, pepper, and citrus fruit casks was employed for maturation, followed by
emerge on the nose. A nutty, peppery palate 6 months of finishing in first-fill oloroso sherry 88 Jane Walker, 41.9%, $38
features orchard fruits, chile spice, and a butts. The nose proclaims youthfulness, with See Best Values, page 85
subtle meatiness. Lemon and oak tannins in metallic notes and a hint of yeast, but the sherry
the medium-length finish.—GS casks provide walnut, old leather, tobacco, and
SINGLE GRAIN SCOTCH
orange. Sherry, freshly planed wood, white 91 The Last Drop Single Grain 1977
90 Glen Garioch Virgin Oak, 48%, $120 pepper, and red currants on the palate. Plums (distilled at Dumbarton), 48.4%, $3,000
Glen Garioch spirit is sufficiently robust to cope dipped in sherry on the finish.—GS See Collectibles, page 85
well with virgin oak, and the nose of this
expression yields the bold aromas you would
ISLAND SINGLE MALT 90 Arbikie Highland Rye Single
expect from heavily-charred virgin oak matura- 88 Highland Park 21 year old Grain (2020 Release), 46%, $350
tion: spicy milk chocolate, buttery malt, and ripe (November 2019 Release), 46%, $350 Distiller Kirsty Black selected four casks laid
peaches. Cocoa, malt, and cloves on the palate, This latest release comprises the contents of down in 2015, made from rye grown on the
plus lots of wood spice. The finish yields vanilla, nine first-fill European sherry-seasoned oak Arbikie estate. The nose displays greater
ginger, and the inevitable oak.—GS hogsheads, eight bourbon barrels, and nine depth and fruit than the first (2018) release,
refill casks, all laid down in 1998. Hints of warm with cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa, dates, dried
88 Glenglassaugh Torfa, 50%, $55 machine oil and herbs on the nose, with apricots, orange oil, and mango. Chocolate-
The first peated expression from Glnglassaugh pineapple, barley sugar, and white pepper, covered peanuts, walnut, and cocoa on the
after reopening in 2008, Torfa is made from plus a touch of heather and faint smokiness. palate, with peppery spices, raisin, date, and
barley malted to 20 ppm and matured in Slightly bitter on the palate, with wood spices, crème brûlée, then a dry finish of dark
bourbon barrels. Bonfire smoke, ozone, orchard while fruitiness lurks in the background. chocolate cookies, praline, and further spice.
fruits, malt, and black pepper are present on Peppery oak char and coal in the finish.—GS (1,220 bottles)—JM

BUYING GUIDE
92 Bulleit Blender’s Select Kentucky

United States secondary aromas that suggest the vivid spice
and earthy leather that lurk on the palate. Straight (Batch 001), 50%, $50
Pleasantly sweet pineapple and citrus keep See Editors’ Choice, page 85
BOURBON AND things bright on the palate, along with flavors
FINISHED BOURBON of chocolate-covered banana. The final show 92 Lucky Seven 12 year old The Hold Up
94 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof Kentucky of dusty oak tannins is laced with bitter Kentucky Straight (Batch 01), 50%, $99
Straight (Batch A120), 68.3%, $60 espresso, then cocoa powder, ending with Minty dark chocolate, maple syrup, iced tea,
An herbal nose featuring menthol, eucalyptus, hints of furniture polish. An intense volley of dark berries, tobacco barn, peanuts, and
and horehound is endowed with plenty of flavors, skillfully integrated.—JL leather on the nose. The palate is chock-full of
earthy oak, evoking sawmill, empty wine rich fruit—blackberry jam, plums in syrup,
casks, and dusty floorboards. Generous oak 93 Angel’s Envy Tawny Port Wine black cherries—and luscious dark chocolate,
courses through the palate, the drying tannins Barrel-Finished, 55.8%, $250 with well-integrated oak, leather, maple syrup
reining in the dense sweetness as the whiskey The second release in Angel’s Envy’s Cellar drizzle, and overtones of herbs. It’s consistent
brandishes bold spices, including allspice, Collection, this one features 10 year old into the finish, with cooked fruit, leather, mint
pepper, and clove. Water gives this bourbon bourbon finished 10 months in tawny port and other herbal flavors, and plenty of
much needed room to run, revealing greater casks. Pleasant oak and barrel char on the chocolate. (2,500 bottles)—SSB
polish and rich layers of flavor.—JL nose underpin playful notes of strawberry,
cotton candy, and raisins. The palate is rich, 91 Belfour Spirits Texas Pecan
94 Kentucky Owl Kentucky with chocolate-covered mint, figs, and Wood-Finished, 46%, $89
Straight (Batch 9), 63.8%, $300 orange. Polished oak, bitter chocolate, red Aged at least 18 months in new charred oak,
A blend of different bourbons aged 15, 14, 12, fruits, and blackberry punctuate the finish. A then finished with Texas pecan wood staves
7, and 6 years. A bakery shop nose offers touch of water brings on a burst of flavors. added to the barrel. The nose offers melted
confectioners’ sugar and warm cherry pie. On (5,400 bottles)—DF caramel, buttered pecan, vanillin, oak, and
the palate, wild strawberry and cooked fruit subtle fruit. A soft palate has notes of baked
notes of baked apples and raspberry tart 93 Booker’s 2020-01 “Granny’s Batch” plum tart, chocolate, figs, allspice, tea leaf, and
meld with tiramisu and black pepper, all Kentucky Straight, 63.2%, $90 dusty oak. The finish is spiced, with dark
well-balanced against leather and oak. The A sack of dried corn and a basket of roasted chocolate, light tobacco, and hefty but
finish offers chocolate spice, raspberry, peanuts go hand in hand with iced tea, well-integrated oak. Bold and robust, with an
cinnamon, bitter almond, and lightly roasted Coca-Cola, dark berries, caramel, and earthy abundance of flavors. (42,000 bottles)—DF
coffee beans. Powerful but balanced, and clay barn floor. Unsurprisingly brawny and
superbly well-integrated. (10,314 bottles)—DF chewy in the mouth, it’s packed with dark 91 Early Times Bottled in Bond
chocolate-covered peanuts, cola, cooked Kentucky Straight, 50%, $25/liter
94 Stagg Jr. Barrel Proof Kentucky cherries, chocolate tart, and tingling spice that See Best Values, page 85
Straight (13th Edition), 64.2%, $50 carries well into the finish, which also keeps up
This kicks off with a bounty of dark fruit— the dark fruit and peanut flavors.—SSB 91 The Justice 14 year old Barrel-
dark berries, cherry cough drops, and Proof Straight, 47.1%, $99
currants—coupled with heaps of vanilla, 93 Filibuster Single Barrel Straight, The nose is thick with peanut brittle and
mocha, and rich oaky notes. Big and brawny 58.5%, $56 peanut shells, blackberry cobbler, grape jelly,
on the palate, it pours bold and viscous, the Scan the dessert case and choose your favorite, allspice, dried ginger, and mint and other
blueberry and blackberry fruit balanced with because they’re all here in abundance: cake herbs. Beautifully mature flavors on the palate:
the sweet-bitter notes of burnt sugar and donuts, sticky buns, pralines, cocoa-dusted cooked plums, raisins, and dark chocolate
pipe tobacco. The flavors harmonize beauti- truffles, and strawberry tarts on the nose. mingle with integrated oak, with peanuts
fully, culminating in a finish of dark jam, Espresso, tea, and spice notes add some bringing up the rear. Silky, especially in the
coffee, and semi-sweet chocolate.—JL gravitas to the palate, which is chewy and oak finish, which fades almost too quickly to relish
forward, but dark fruit, milk chocolate, and dark chocolate-covered cherries, peanuts, and
94 Three Chord 12 year old Twelve sweet pecans and peanuts maintain balance. smooth oak. (2,000 bottles)—SSB
Bar Reserve Barrel-Proof Straight The finish is a dream, lengthy and well-
(Batch 0007), 53.5%, $70 developed, with nutmeg, chai spice, toasted oak, 90 Chambers Bay 5 year old Captain’s
Butter pecan ice cream, peanuts in the shell, tea leaf, milk chocolate, and boysenberry.—SSB Reserve Bottled in Bond Straight
oily grain, milk chocolate, cooked orange, (Release 1, No. 45), 50%, $55
cherry tart, and blueberries on the nose. The 92 Bardstown Bourbon Co. Comforting aromas of fresh-brewed espresso,
palate is spiced, nutty, and chewy, with milk The Prisoner Wine-Barrel Finished, roasted pecans, warm arepas, chocolate-
chocolate, orange soda, cherry cough drop, 50%, $125 covered peanuts, Italian hot cocoa, mint
baking spice, brown sugar, a hint of eucalyp- Part of Bardstown Bourbon Co.’s Collaboration chocolate, and hints of black cherry and grape.
tus, and loads of peanuts. More rich spice, Series, distilled in Tennessee and aged 9 years, There’s a rich, tactile boldness on the palate,
chocolate, and fruit on the finish, along with then finished 18 months in French oak barrels with flavors of cinnamon, peppermint, black
peanut butter, spearmint, and generous oak. that previously held The Prisoner wine. The pepper, cigar wrapper, barrel char, and lots of
Not a hair out of place.—SSB nose offers raspberry, grape hard candy, high-quality dark chocolate. The full finish has
bubble gum, and dried orange slices. A palate more dark chocolate, charred oak, spiced coffee
94 Woodford Reserve Master’s of chocolate fudge, coconut, cinnamon, and bean, and hints of cigar. (450 bottles)—SSB
Collection Batch Proof Kentucky baking spice leads to a finish that’s rich and
Straight (2020 Release), 61.8%, $130 smooth, with more chocolate and lively fruit. 90 Lucky Seven 6 year old The Jokester
Lovely lavender-like florals and sweet Bit-O- Balanced and with excellent depth; a unified, Kentucky Straight (Batch 01), 47.5%, $55
Honey candies introduce this whiskey, with harmonious whiskey. (10,000 bottles)—DF The nose offers notes of leather, oak, choco-

BUYING GUIDE
late, blackberry, and baking spice. The stacks, strawberry lollipop, sugared pineapple, 86 Oregon Spirit Single Barrel Bottled
mouthfeel is smooth, but with heat and power, mango, dried kiwi, and grape soda. Without in Bond (No. 150330 01), 50%, $75
as well as rich flavors of honey, cinnamon, water, the palate is crowded with oak, peppery The nose starts with anise cookies and
blackberry tart, bitter chocolate, roasted heat, and cocoa; add a bit, however, and there’s butterscotch, then reveals magnolia leaf,
peanuts, and leather. On the finish come room for sweet plums and cherries, grape jelly, bergamot, sarsaparilla, and tea leaves.
playful flavors of baking spice, cherry tart, butterscotch, and chai spices, finishing with dry Barrel-driven, the palate is peppery, minty, and
more blackberry, tobacco, and white pepper. oak, peanuts, licorice, and tobacco. Made with a little piney, with bitter chocolate and roasted
An excellent blend of spice and chocolate with the distillery’s signature “Tennessee high malt” nuts. More black pepper, chocolate, pepper-
playful berry notes—rich, powerful, and mashbill, which includes corn, malted rye, and mint stick, and bitter oak into the short finish.
delicate all at once. (2,500 bottles)—DF two types of malted barley.—SSB Water recommended. (278 bottles)—SSB
90 Penelope Barrel Strength Four 88 Hudson Baby Straight (Batch 9), 86 Penelope Four Grain Straight
Grain Straight (Batch 4), 58.3%, $60 46%, $50 (Batch 2), 40%, $35
The nose offers cherry, raspberry tart, dried The barrel dominates here, by design, and it Fresh, green, and earthy: bell pepper, jalapeño,
orange slices, butterscotch, black pepper, and manifests on the nose with fresh-cut oak, unshucked corn, and lime leaf, as well as cacao
antique closet. The palate is powerful, with cinnamon, black tea leaves, cashews, blackcur- nibs, cedar cigar box, and cinnamon. More
sweet syrup up front, bold flavors of herbs and rant, dark chocolate, and a sprinkling of spices. peppers on the palate, this time dried and
spice, grain, dusty oak, and an earthy note of Savory and oak-forward on the chewy palate, smoked, along with roasted pecans, chocolate,
warehouse floor. More spice emerges with which has roasted nuts, grilled corn, dark nuts, bitter oak, and a hint of tobacco. The
water, bringing semi-sweet chocolate, cooked chocolate, peppermint stick, dried chile, black finish is short and light; a little more proof
raspberries, and leather. Creamy and well- pepper, espresso bean, and tobacco leaf, all would go a long way.—SSB
balanced, with its spice tempered by deep sweeping into a lengthy, chocolaty finish.—SSB
chocolate, cooked cherries, and a musty yet 86 Soldier Valley True American 6,
interesting character.—DF 88 Tumblin’ Dice 4 year old 45%, $50
Single Barrel Barrel-Proof Bright with lemon and lime, as well as garde-
89 Redemption High Rye Straight Straight (No. 1), 57.85%, $59 nias and peonies—a fresh garden on the nose;
(Batch 122), 46%, $30 The nose is redolent of tea leaves, peach skin, there’s also uncooked corn on the cob, mint
The nose offers caramel custard, chocolate, and herbal honey throat lozenges, blueberries, toothpaste, tea leaf, and pecan shell. The
maple syrup. An oak-driven palate has lots of brown sugar, licorice, and toasted grain. More palate is spiced and oak-forward, countered
heat and integrated spice, but is also loaded herbaceousness hits on the palate, cooling by grape jelly, dark chocolate, coffee bean,
with chocolate, coffee beans, almonds, and some of the cinnamon spice of the high proof and hints of tobacco. It’s occasionally jumbled,
maple syrup. The finish is the best part, with rich with spearmint and licorice notes; add water, even into the finish, which has roasted pecans,
notes of chocolate, coffee, and spice, but plenty and nuttiness emerges. Continued herbal pipe tobacco, leather, and black pepper.—SSB
of finesse. Water brings out more chocolate on a flavors into the finish, which also has citrus oil
slightly tart but rich finish. Lots of assertive and peppery spice. Strong barrel character 86 Soldier Valley Omaha Beach,
flavors, but with a gentle, smooth texture.—DF throughout. (5,500 bottles)—SSB 45%, $55
There are nostalgic bubble gum notes on the
89 Saint Lawrence Spirits Kentucky 87 Oregon Spirit Straight (Barrel nose—Bazooka and Big League Chew—as well
Son Straight, 45%, $46 Series No. 150317), 47%, $45 as orange sherbet, strawberry shortcake, cherry
Rich aromas of marzipan, black tea, blackberry, The nose is dark and roasty: clay, dried leaves, pie, snickerdoodles, and milk chocolate. Sweet
cherry, chocolate, brown sugar, and tobacco walnut and pecan shells, cacao nibs, dried and fruit-forward on the palate, with grape jelly,
leaves. The palate is chewy, with oak char, black chiles, tobacco leaf, and darjeeling tea, as well cherry preserves, chocolate, cinnamon, clove,
tea, roasted nuts, semi-sweet chocolate, root as hints of tropical fruit. Full-bodied and and a hint of rose water. It finishes a bit short
beer spices, ginger, red apple, and mint; water oak-driven on the palate, with spiced tea-leaf and soft, rolling out spiced oak and a bouquet
brings out cinnamon and pecans. It shows complexity highlighted by tobacco leaf, of candied violets. (700 bottles)—SSB
vivaciousness into the finish, with more oak cinnamon, clove, allspice, black pepper, mint
char, mint, black pepper, and chocolate- oil, chocolate, and roasted corn. Continued 85 Luca Mariano Old Americana
covered almonds. (2,000 bottles)—SSB chocolate, oak, and spice into the finish, Small Batch Kentucky Straight
interwoven with cigar wrapper and pops of (Batch 2019-03), 41.5%, $45
88 Cathead Old Soul Blended Straight licorice and mint.—SSB Peanut brittle on wax paper, corn pudding,
(Batch 1), 45%, $45 orange slices, grape Nerds, cotton candy, and
Cinnamon babka, powdered donuts, pecan- 86 Old Camp Wolf Moon Straight, kettle corn on the nose. The palate has plenty
studded coffee cake: Call this breakfast whiskey. 40%, $25 of oak, Corn Nuts, peanuts, tea leaf, apple,
The nose is sweet, light, and nutty—a beignet Licorice, black tea, lemon, green apple, white pepper, and Fruit Stripe gum, though it
with sugary chicory coffee. Sturdy and spiced pomegranate, and almond on the nose. The begs for more proof. It finishes fairly quickly,
on the palate, it has flavors of cinnamon, allspice, palate is fruity, smooth, and light up front, with vanilla and oak. (7,000 bottles)—SSB
pepper, stone fruit, cherry pie, roasted pecans, with notes of dried orange slices, orange
and bracing oak, along with garden herbs. The Creamsicle, lemon curd, and accents of 85 Three Chord Blended
finish is medium-length, with milk chocolate, nuttiness. The finish offers more orange, as (Batch 0007), 40.5%, $40
black pepper, and roasted nuts.—SSB well as flavors of vanilla cream and sweet Fruit-forward on the nose with apples,
raspberry, all spiced with an overlay of white blueberries, cinnamon, coffee ice cream, and
88 Chattanooga 111 Proof Straight pepper. Wispy and lacking deep complexity, chocolate-caramel milkshake. It’s silky and
(Batch 19J03E), 55.5%, $47 but with balanced sweetness and some very light-bodied in the mouth, with a heaping slab
Grainy on the nose, with butterscotch hay- pleasant notes.—DF of dry oak, peanut shells, walnuts, pepper,

BUYING GUIDE
cacao nibs, and orange peel. The oak persists blackcurrant, set against jalapeño spice and The palate has flavors of clove-studded
on the finish, which is a bit abrupt.—SSB smoke. The palate offers flavors of cinnamon orange, spice, and the chewed end of a pencil.
and burnt espresso beans, with an alluring It’s light-bodied and verges on thin when
85 Whiskey Acres Bottled in Bond smoky bitterness and notes of jalapeño, water is added, so be judicious. The finish is
(Batch 1), 50%, $50 smoked chiles, and black pepper. On the finish, gentle, with peppery oak, cinnamon, and
Cinnamon Red Hots, peanut shells, almonds, dried dark fruits and bitter chocolate emerge, espresso bean. This is a new higher proof and
burnt sugar, pencil shavings, and fresh ears of with a blast of pepper at the end. Rich, the whiskey is now non-chill filtered, so don’t
corn on the nose. There’s more cinnamon on brawny, and assertive, but also supple and well be surprised by a little haze if you add water
the palate, as well as milk chocolate, Goobers, integrated.—DF or ice.—SSB
orange oil, a pretty floral character, and plenty
of chewy oak; a few drops of water straighten 89 Belfour Spirits Limited Edition 87 Rod & Hammer’s SLO Stills Straight,
up the balance. The finish is all about the oak Straight, 50%, $299 45%, $39
and cinnamon, warming and sweet. (2,100 A nose of lemon drops, tea leaves, light barrel Lovely, perfumy, fragrant nose: orange and
bottles)—SSB char, and herb-garden notes. The palate is peach blossoms, tea rose, lilacs, apricot jam,
honeyed, with lemon, licorice, herbs, and and blueberry muffins. It remains floral and
RYE earthiness, balancing against vanilla cream and sweet on the palate, but with a solid oak
93 Barrell 4 year old Cask Strength spice, all integrating well with the barrel. A backbone surrounded by red berries, orange
(Batch 003), 58.35%, $90 lengthy finish is well-textured and spiced, sherbet, ginger, baking spice, and a fizzy zing
There’s much to discover in the depths of this highlighted by notes of tobacco, herbs, and that finishes sweet and light, sprinkled with
glass, which continues to develop over time. chocolate. Creamy, spicy, and a bit unusual, pepper and drizzled with Hershey’s chocolate
Dark fruit, tobacco, orange pekoe tea, white this whiskey offers spiced complexity and syrup. (1,000 bottles)—SSB
pepper, leather, dry-roasted peanuts, and impressive flavor balance on the palate.—DF
varnish unfold on the nose, while the palate is 86 Pinhook Rye’d On Kentucky
fruity with blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, 89 Blinking Owl Single Barrel Straight Straight (2020 Release), 48.5%, $38
and orange; it also has dry oak, nuts, tobacco, (Batch 2), 45%, $75 The first whiskey fully distilled at Castle &
and a lot of black pepper spice. The finish is Is there such a thing as “beach rye?” Wafting Key—site of the old Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr.
leathery and peppery, with cigar and persis- breezes carry coconut, almond orgeat, and Distillery—since its revival in 2018. A fragrant,
tent dark berry flavors. A dense, decadent tropical fruit aromas, along with dried orange floral nose offers candied orange, lemon,
whiskey that makes it all seem effortless. rind, chamomile tea, clove, mint, and earthy toasted almonds, and banana cream pie. The
(12,000 bottles)—SSB pecans. The easy-drinking palate has less fruit palate is soft, with notes of creamy vanilla,
and more herbs, with licorice, spearmint, and baking spice, and pepper. A smooth texture
93 Elijah Craig Kentucky Straight, allspice, underpinned by nuts and dry oak. characterizes the finish, with notes of banana
47%, $30 Rounded out with orange blossom water, chai, and almond still emerging. Youthful in profile,
See Editors’ Choice, page 85 dark berries, and more spearmint, allspice, and but a promising start.—DF
oak on the finish. This should come with a
91 Hudson Manhattan Straight hammock.—SSB 86 Porter’s Small Batch Straight,
(Batch 5), 46%, $50 45%, $40
A well-choreographed interplay of rich dark 89 Saint Lawrence Spirits Rye Knot, A tropical note of lime on the nose, as well as
fruit—plums, Luxardo cherries, Concord 45%, $42 licorice and ginger root, offers youthful but
grapes—and deep spices on the nose, along The nose is layered with mature baking spices, balanced oak. The mouthfeel is creamy, with
with hints of wood char and licorice; it turns cacao nibs, tobacco barn, Cherry Coke syrup, grapefruit and orange peel on the front palate
tropical and nutty when water is added. The praline, pistachio, and dusty oak. Spiced and melding into vanilla cream and underlying
palate is richly spiced—cedar, ginger, cloves, herbal on the palate, with bracing oak, coffee flavors of spice and pepper. The finish brings
allspice—and silky with extra-dark chocolate, with almond cream, roasted nuts, dark more citrus and creamy vanilla, along with
grilled plums, espresso beans, and hints of chocolate, cinnamon, licorice, and peppermint, cinnamon and drying oak. It seems young, but
aged cigar. It ends rich and toasty, with lush all pillowed by a creamy texture. It finishes the profile is fresh and offers interesting
oak, hookah tobacco, and coffee bean.—SSB with minty dark chocolate, espresso, leather, flavors.—DF
and integrated oak. No need for an after-
91 Sagamore Spirit Calvados dinner coffee; this’ll do. (2,000 bottles)—SSB 86 Three Chord Amplify (Batch 0015),
Cask-Finished, 50.6%, $69 47.5%, $50
Mature but lively character; it has dark fruit, 88 Tincup Straight, 45%, $30 Piney and grassy on the nose, with fruity
black tea, mint oil, fennel seed, and licorice on Dark berries, cola, iced tea, dark chocolate, aromas of grape Kool-Aid, bubble gum, and
the nose. The palate is brawny and robust—it toasted oak, white pepper, and lime on the nose, grapefruit, as well as new wood. The palate
practically eats water—and swells with mint, permeated by an earthy character. Strong oak picks up the herbal and pine notes, adding
licorice, root beer, black pepper, baking spice, on the palate is kept in check by spice—ginger, licorice and spearmint, as well as honey,
espresso, and grape Robitussin. The lengthy cinnamon, pepper—and dark fruit, with notes of orange, blueberry, grape, and grapefruit oil,
finish is peppery and rich, with oak, herbs, black tea and roasted peanuts as well. The finish with Popsicle stick throughout. Lingering mint,
baking spice, tea leaves, and dark is nutty and quite spiced, with lingering black- banana bread, citrus oil, and green wood on
chocolate.—SSB berries and a touch of bitter oak.—SSB the finish. (8,400 bottles)—SSB
91 Wood’s 2 year old Alpine 87 Old Overholt Straight, 43%, $18 86 Wheel Horse Straight, 50.5%, $28
(Batch 16), 49%, $55 Sweet cherries, bubble gum, and fresh The nose has gooey butterscotch, pralines,
From Colorado-based Wood’s High Mountain blueberry on the nose, along with nougat, toasted oak, vanilla custard, and blueberry
Distillery. A nose of apple, brown sugar, and honey-roasted peanuts, and milk chocolate. muffin, with pops of green apple and Asian

BUYING GUIDE
pear. On the full-bodied palate, stewed fruit 91 Virginia Distillery Co. with balanced oak and light fruit. Excellent
and oak vie for pride of place, with baking Courage & Conviction (George complexity, with spice melding well with notes
spice, butterscotch, and lemon and orange G. Moore Batch), 46%, $75 of chocolate and fruit. (60,000 bottles)—DF
peel urging restraint. The finish is hot and The official debut of the distillery’s 100%
centers on toasted oak, stewed apples, and own-make single malt. The nose has an earthy 89 Broken Barrel Isle of Peat, 55%, $50
nuts; cloying at times. (16,500 bottles)—SSB expression of the grain, and works in heady A blend of American single malt and wheat
aromas of guava, pomegranate, blueberries, whiskeys, finished on staves from peated Islay
WHEAT WHISKEY and kiwi, along with sandalwood soap. It’s oily scotch casks using Broken Barrel’s proprietary
89 Dry Fly Cask and Release Series and silky in the mouth, with forthright lemon process. The effect is herbaceous rather than
Beer Barrel-Finished, 45%, $50 and orange oil, guava, and kiwi, as well as smoky; this has tons of eucalyptus, bay leaves,
It opens with floral and fruit aromas: dried leaves, nutty tobacco, and peppery black pepper, and juniper—more like an amaro
strawberries, peach blossoms, dried apple spice. The finish is gentle and fades slowly, in aroma than a whiskey. Dry and lean in the
rings, mulberries, plums. There’s also amaretto, with lemon oil, milk chocolate, and a hint of mouth, there’s mint, black pepper, eucalyptus,
dried ginger, licorice, and cacao nibs. Rich and ashy charred nuts. (9,600 bottles)—SSB cola spices, dark chocolate, licorice, and
a little hot on the palate, it’s chewy with honeyed lemon tea. The finish is medium-
dry-roasted almonds, cracked walnuts, coffee 90 Westward Oregon Stout length with oak, mint, pepper, and persistent
bean, chai spice, and grilled plums. Mouthwa- Cask-Finished, 45%, $90 herbs. Profoundly outside the box, but it
tering on the finish, drawing out chile heat, Tropical and floral on the nose, with kiwi, works. (6,600 bottles)—SSB
black pepper spice, chocolate-covered coffee mango, hibiscus, coconut cream, and pistachio
bean, and dry oak. (450 bottles)—SSB and almond halva; add water and a big burst 86 Blackened American
of honeysuckle blooms. There are more (Batch 097), 45%, $50
TENNESSEE tropical notes on the palate: melon, guava, A blend of straight whiskeys that’s finished in
90 Jack Daniel’s Tennessee pineapple, and Juicy Fruit, as well as almond, brandy casks using proprietary “sonic
Taster’s Barrel Reunion #2 Oatmeal coffee ice cream, milk chocolate, and spice. enhancement.” Sweet vanilla, lemon cream pie,
Stout Barrel-Finished (Selection The mouthfeel is robust, becoming mouthwa- spiced apricots, ginger, cracked corn, and
No. 005), 46%, $40/375 ml tering on the finish, which is oak-led but licorice start off the nose, balanced against a
An herbal, lightly malty nose starts with notes balanced with floral hop character.—SSB soft influence of new oak. The palate is sweet
of sweet barrel char, cherry hard candy, and well-textured, with notes of spice, candied
raspberry pastilles, and a hint of green banana. 88 Wood’s 7 year old Sawatch apple, cooked plums, chocolate nuttiness, and
The palate is rich, with flavors of chocolate American Malt (Batch 2), 49%, $75 a fair amount of barrel influence. There’s some
and burnt espresso beans, bitter orange, At first, the nose is earthy and roasty, with good length on the finish, which offers sweet
pepper spice, and burnt almonds. The lengthy dried chile, cocoa powder, toasted oak, curing flavors of light chocolate, along with lingering
finish has notes of candied raspberries riding tobacco, and dried clay, but a few drops of spice and layered oak.—DF
atop some deeper notes of allspice and water reveal dried jasmine, honeysuckle, and
pepper. Balanced and fruity overtones rose petals: a delightful surprise. The palate is 85 Broken Barrel Mizunara, 50%, $50
throughout, anchored by earthiness and spice savory and earthy with plenty of mole sauce, A blend of 5 year old Kentucky and 4 year old
underneath. (24,000 bottles)—DF cocoa powder, charred nuts, and pepper. It’s Indiana corn whiskeys, finished on mizunara
lengthy on the finish, unfurling into cigar, oak staves using Broken Barrel’s proprietary
AMERICAN SINGLE MALT espresso, and unsweetened cocoa flavors.—SSB process. The nose is unusual, with candied
93 Breuckelen 6 year old Brownstone fruit, grape Kool-Aid, blueberries, fresh
Malt (Batch 1), 50%, $75 86 Rogue Spirits Dead Guy, 40%, $45 coconut shavings, Popsicle stick, and a grassy
A peculiar nose of cucumber, cinnamon Red Tropical fruit on the verge of overripeness: character. Muted tropical fruit vies with oak on
Hots, cedar shavings, fresh melon, jasmine tea, pineapple, papaya, kiwi, plus jasmine flowers, the palate, which is silky; soon chile pepper
and tobacco barn, and somehow it all works. almond halva, and the piney-lemon aroma of and oak dominate. It finishes with peppery
There’s much complexity to be explored here, hops. The hoppiness is evident on the palate, heat and sweet oak. (6,600 bottles)—SSB
with a whole spice cabinet tumbling out on which is light in body and consequently less
the palate, dusting black tea, Cherry Coke,
pecans, espresso, and taut oak with its clouds
expressive in flavor, though there’s dry
nuttiness and grain, overlaid with sweeping
Canada
of blooming flavor. The finish expresses lovely tropical fruit. More of the same hoppy, juicy
barrel char, red chiles, coffee beans, herba- fruit flavors juxtaposed with oak on the finish. 92 Benjamin Chapman 7 year old,
ceous pops of licorice, and a lingering incense If you like beery whiskey, this is one to try. 45%, $40
quality. Enchanting. (1,000 bottles)—SSB (10,000 bottles)—SSB A complex nose, rich in aromas of fresh peaches,
wild beach roses, prairie sage, hints of rye
91 Tattersall Single Malt, 55%, $50 OTHER/MISCELLANEOUS spices, and lumber. A sweet, hot, peppery palate
Opening with fresh grain aromas, it soon 91 High West Bourye Blend of Straight bursts with rye spices, high floral tones, gummy
develops to show complex cinnamon, clove, Whiskeys (Batch 19L06), 46%, $100 bears, then earthy herbal notes, river plants, and
chai, black tea, dried orange peel, and smoked A nose of herbs, candied oranges, cherries, some pulling wood tannins Loaded with rye and
salt; delicate pastry notes also appear. The treacle, and baking spice, with pleasant aged apple juice. Fades slowly into herbal notes,
palate is rich, roasty, and hot without water, accents of leather armchair and earthy brown sugar, and a hint of peach pits.—DdeK
offering dark chocolate, dried chiles, barbe- warehouse floor. The palate offers semi-sweet
cued brisket, cacao nibs, charred nuts, and chocolate, spice, dark fruit, roasted pecans, 92 WhistlePig The Boss Hog VI: The
peppery spice that starts as a small flame and blackberries, cola, and pepper. Water brings Samurai Scientist Umeshu Barrel-
builds into a burn on the warming, chocolaty, out richer chocolate, pistachio, and blackberry Finished Rye (Barrel 8), 60.3%, $500
ashy finish. (1,200 bottles)—SSB jam. The finish is nutty, spicy, and peppery, See Collectibles, page 85

BUYING GUIDE
IRISH SINGLE POT STILL sliding into chewy toffee with coffee notes and
a hint of raspberry, though harried by peppery
FOCUS ON spices so sharp they taste spiky.—JM
Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath Forest 91 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath

Though the use of virgin oak is not uncommon in scotch, Midleton is the first Forest (Tree 3), 56.5%, $320
modern distillery to produce a virgin Irish oak-finished single pot still A nose of oak, lemon meringue pie, lashings of
whiskey. Foresters carefully select a small number of oaks to be felled from vanilla, pink peppercorns, and paprika. It’s
woods on well-managed Irish estates. The oak travels to a cooperage in particularly mouth-drawing at cask strength,
Spain to be quarter-sawn and seasoned for 15 months before the barrels are offering vanilla, toffee, a slight nuttiness, and
raised and returned to Midleton Distillery in Co. Cork. The third release of this banana, with a clove spiciness that really takes
highly collectible series comes from seven trees grown in Knockrath Forest hold. It keeps surging forward, finding
in Co. Wicklow, which yielded 42 barrels. These were filled with single pot different ways for the spices to peak before
still whiskeys matured in American oak, ranging from 15 to 28 years old, and settling on a vanilla finish.—JM
finished in the virgin Irish oak casks for up to 2 years.
90 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath
Forest (Tree 4), 56.1%, $320
94 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath generous nature, moving from lime zest to Heavy on the oak and spices, this has aromas
Forest (Tree 5), 56.5%, $320 grapefruit, with dry oak to finish.—JM of a carpentry shop, with salt and pepper,
A superbly balanced whiskey with huge spices steak rub, and a touch of red fruit buried deep
meeting vanilla head on: a perfect complement 92 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath in the glass. It has quite a mouthfeel at cask
between the American and Irish oak contribu- Forest (Tree 6), 56.6%, $320 strength; one of those whiskeys that makes
tions. It has a softer body, with lemon, vanilla, There’s orange peel, strawberry fondant, your teeth squeaky. Vanilla, banana, and nicely
and meringue in creamy custard sauce, but vanilla custard, and finely ground pepper on balanced between the slowly unraveling
then the spices go off like a rocket, and as they the nose. It has plenty of fruit, with peach, spices, hazelnut, and oakiness.—JM
glitter across the palate, there are glimpses of citrus, strawberry, and vanilla which vie with
chocolate, coffee, and singed oak.—JM peppery and clove spiciness before oak, 89 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath
vanilla, and caramel fade into the finish.—JM Forest (Tree 2), 56.3%, $320
93 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath This has more vanilla and caramel, with less
Forest (Tree 7), 56.5%, $320 91 Midleton Dair Ghaelach Knockrath aggressive wood spices than Tree 1, and aromas
Vanilla, white pear, meringue, caramel, and lots Forest (Tree 1), 56.6%, $320 of clove, sharpened pencils, and dried morel
more toasted oak flavors with nutmeg, clove, Cranberry, watermelon, and cherry, with mushrooms. It’s fruity and mouth-drawing, yet
and pepper. This is fruity and sweet with deeper notes of raisin and prune, are lanced by less weighty than Tree 1, reminiscent of fruit
orange, pomegranate, and caramel, then a piercing spices. There’s a thick and heavy Life Savers and baked apple, and when it peaks
wild, crazy rush of spices. It has a bold and mouthfeel that begins with caramel and vanilla, it breaks with more alcohol than spice.—JM
89 Cask & Crew Double Oaked delivering a remarkable intensity of red berry it’s quite nutty, and the spice starts building
Straight Rye, 48%, $50 fruit. Orange peel, pine cone, vanilla, and walnut early on. Hold out till the end for black cherry,
From Rochester, New York-based Cask & Crew, on the nose. Raspberry, cherry, plums, and toffee, and burnt fruitcake, with a finish of
this was distilled in Canada, matured 4 years in active spices like a wildfire across the tongue, autumnal fruits, menthol, and aniseed.—JM
new charred oak, then finished in another new with pepper and chile heightened by the
charred oak barrel. Spice, pistachio, and a note strength and menthol late on the finish.—JM
IRISH BLENDED
of barrel char on the nose, and a nutty, creamy 90 The Whistler Double Oaked,
palate with notes of blueberry pie, chocolate, 93 Redbreast 21 year old, 46%, $280 40%, $30
cooked plums, and light spice. The finish offers Honey, vanilla, peppercorn, Golden Delicious Sweetness and richness were my first
more spice, coffee cake, and almond nuttiness. apples, macadamia nut, green banana, and impressions of this sourced whiskey blended
The profile is young, but full of good clove-spiked orange. The flavors are bright with at Boann Distillery, and it’s the oloroso sherry
flavors.—DF green apple, banana, vanilla, and citrus, finish that’s made all the difference. Apple,
developing a delicious creaminess to support barley sugar, aromatic spices, baked citrus,
Ireland the pot still spices. The creaminess really

crowns this older whiskey as something special,
cherry, and dried apricot against a backbone
of grain. Vanilla fudge, baked fruit desserts,
with the bourbon wood playing a greater role and apple, it’s rich, smooth, and creamy with
IRISH SINGLE MALT than in younger, jammier Redbreasts. The finish swirling spices before returning to a finish of
94 Midleton Very Rare Silent Distillery is wonderfully long and warming, with spice, vanilla, spice, and dried apple.—JM
Collection Chapter One, 51.2%, $35,000 tangy orange, and oak.—JM
See Collectibles, page 85 88 McConnell’s 5 year old, 42%, $33
92 Redbreast 12 year old Cask Strength Aromas of honey, vanilla extract, dried banana,
IRISH SINGLE POT STILL (Batch B2/19), 58.6%, $84 and clove, with green herbal notes of parsley
93 Redbreast 27 year old, 54.6%, $500 An easy-drinking cask-strength whiskey, the stems and kale. Dark sugar sweetness, vanilla,
This new permanent addition to the Redbreast nose has an equal balance between fruit and baked citrus, clove, and peppercorn flavors,
range is partially matured in ruby port casks, spice, as red apple and bright cherry meet though the spices don’t overwhelm the mellow
which have helped the vitality and the Chinese five spice, savory undertones, and mouthfeel, and it rounds off with vanilla toffee,
complexity of the finished whiskey while still salted nuts. This has big, chewy sherry notes; sliced banana, herbal grain notes, and linger-

BUYING GUIDE
ing spice. Worth getting to know this whiskey 91 Tin Shed Iniquity Single Malt ISRAEL
well to appreciate its full potential.—JM (Batch 10), 46%, $225 90 M&H Whisky in Bloom
A curious single malt smoked with native Lightly Peated Young Israeli
87 Sadler’s Peaky Blinder, 40%, $19 Australian peat and mallee wood stumps, and Single Malt, 46%, $55
Named after the infamous gang that weapon- matured in port casks. The smoke expresses M&H (Milk & Honey), founded in 2013, is
ized their flat caps by stitching razor blades itself little on the nose, which shows aromas Israel’s first whisky distillery. This expression
into the peaks, this whiskey threatens a nose of nougat, apples, pears, blueberries, black- and its sibling bottling Double Cask are M&H’s
of raisin, banana bread, Irish soda bread, beer currants, raisins, and a mineral freshness. But first to hit the U.S. Aged 2 years in bourbon,
mash, and dark honey. A lightweight mouth- the palate allows plenty of room for the STR (shaved, toasted, and re-charred), and
feel, with dried apple, baked goods, oat bars, smoke, which has a gentle, herbaceous Islay casks, its nose offers candied lemon, lime
vanilla extract, and pancakes slathered with pungency of tarragon, tobacco leaf, and leaf, tea, and licorice. The palate is soft, fruity,
maple syrup, a spicy swallow, and a finish of eucalyptus; there’s also licorice, dark choco- and spiced, with chocolate and light peat. The
burnt fruitcake. An easy-drinking whiskey.—JM late, coffee bean, and rich oak. The finish is finish is spiced and lightly peated, with
equally rich, with lingering herbal smoke. (120 tropical fruit accents. Brilliant texture and an
Japan bottles for the U.S.)—SSB unusual spice profile.—DF
CZECH REPUBLIC 88 M&H Whisky in Bloom Double Cask

JAPANESE BLENDED 91 Hammerhead 30 year old Single Young Israeli Single Malt, 46%, $55
87 Tenjaku, 40%, $40 Malt (Cask No. 378), 51.2%, $425 Clean fresh malt character manifests as a
This blend is made in Fuefuki, west of Tokyo, The malt shows well on the nose, with toasted whole host of banana products: chips, bread,
and seems custom-built for great Highballs. almonds, cooked cereal, and rolled oats; and pudding with Nilla wafers; there are also
The nose presents fresh pear, baked pastry, there’s also coriander seed, dill, dewy grass, coconut shavings, sliced almonds, confection-
straw, and slightly smoky roasted spices: peaches, and nectarines. It’s intensely spiced ers’ sugar, and lemon and lime peels. Though
coriander seed, peppercorn, and aniseed ball. and herbaceous on the palate: clove-studded youth peeks through with heat on the palate,
It lacks body initially, with sweet orange, fruit orange, chai, sandalwood, pouch tobacco, the bright flavors of lemon, banana, coconut,
syrups, and ginger root spiciness, but then it and more coriander and aniseed. With water, and a whole bouquet of violets and roses
restores your faith with flavors of tropical milk chocolate, almonds, and hazelnuts provide balance and lead into a clean short
fruits, vanilla, and orange cake, and a hot ‘n’ emerge. The finish is oaky, with hints of finish. A little more time and this whisky won’t
spicy peppery finish.—JM tobacco and persistent spice, especially just bloom—it’ll flourish. (1,560 bottles)—SSB
coriander. Compelling. (300 bottles; U.S.
SOUTH AFRICA
World Whiskies exclusive)—SSB
INDIA
89 Drayman’s Highveld 5
year old French Oak Reserve
ARMENIA 94 Amrut 6 year old Aatma Single Cask Single Malt, 43%, $100
87 Hye-Land 12 year old Small Batch Single Malt (Cask No. 4675), 57.1%, $215 This is a highly fragrant young whisky with
Armenian, 43%, $39 Sweet saline peat on the nose, along with red aromas of peeled satsumas, zested lime,
Hye-Land’s inaugural U.S. release, made from berries, milk chocolate, hazelnuts, dates, and rosebuds, graham cracker, sponge cake, and a
100% malted wheat at Eraskh Winery in nougat. It’s lush and rich, qualities that extend trace of aromatic spice. Light to medium-
Armenia (which also has a distillery), aged in to the palate’s oily, dense character, which is bodied with sweet orange honey, marmalade,
Caucasus Mountain oak barrels, and then floral and soapy before shifting into plummy walnut, and malt, then a slow crescendo of
finished in Armenian brandy barrels. The nose red berry fruit, dark chocolate, roasted cocoa, spice, and cereal notes to a finish of
offers seasoned oak, citrus, ginger, and hazelnuts, and a panoply of spices. The finish grated chocolate. (1,200 bottles)—JM
allspice. The palate brings sweet notes of is ashy, peppery, sweet, and mouthwatering,
melon, coconut shavings, tobacco, Christmas with long, lingering smokiness. Water is a WALES
cake, ginger, and clove, all lightly accented by must to showcase the rounded, powerfully 94 Penderyn 10 year old Madeira
black pepper. The finish is viscous and has flavorful balance of this whisky. (360 bottles; Cask-Finished Single Cask Single
balanced sweetness.—DF U.S. exclusive)—SSB Malt (No. 047-3), 58.1%, $110
When you feel you’ve earned a treat, pour a
AUSTRALIA 90 Amrut 7 year old Single Grain dram of this bottled candy. The nose is a tropical
95 Dram Hunters 7 year old Southern Single Cask (No. 1431), 57.1%, $100 fruit basket, with papaya, guava, mango,
Coast Distillers Single Cask Single Clean and sweet on the nose, with jackfruit, and dried kiwi; extra goodies come in
Malt (Cask No. 112), 63.6%, $250 confectionary aromas of vanilla, coconut, the form of Jordan almonds and vanilla sand-
Without water, this oddball is deeply herbaceous lemon curd, shortbread, and almond halva; wich cookies. Consistent tropical flavors on the
and spiced with aniseed, coriander, hardwood there’s also concentrated orchard fruit, milk silky palate. Nuttiness, gentle spice, milk
smoke, brown sugar, and powerful oak through- chocolate, and jasmine. It’s dry and chewy on chocolate, and coffee bean emerge with water.
out the nose and palate. Add some water, and the palate, with plenty to enjoy—spiced plums, Intensely satisfying on the finish, with persistent
suddenly the sunbeam breaks through the crack raspberries, incense, milk chocolate—though fruit, integrated oak, almonds, and grapefruit
in the curtain. There are still plenty of herbal and the complexity flattens out into the finish, peel. (243 bottles; U.S. exclusive)—SSB
spice notes, but now more dimension emerges— which is sweet with vanilla custard, milk
orange, forest fruits, semi-sweet chocolate, chocolate, fresh raspberries, and lingering
coffee ice cream, and sweet woodsmoke, fully floral notes. (108 bottles; U.S. exclusive)—SSB You can search the entire
relaxed in its integration. The finish is savory, database of Whisky
then sweet—clean and rich, a revelation. (150 89 Paul John Nirvana, 40%, $30 Advocate reviews online at
whiskyadvocate.com
bottles; U.S. exclusive)—SSB See Best Values, page 85

Are You A Whisky Advocate? Then Show Us!
Send us your photo. We’ll run the best ones here, or you might see it online.
Email photos to info@whiskyadvocate.com
Friends Kim, Judy, and Wayne gathered in Orange Tim Warner of Chicago is making the best of
Beach, Alabama for a Mardi Gras party that included sheltering in place during COVID-19. The crowd’s
a bourbon and scotch tasting. a little stuffy, but the bourbons are great.
Bernie Kremer (third from left) and

fellow soccer players from the ’80s
reunited in Louisville. A lot of great
bourbons and distillery tours created a
memorable gathering of good friends.
Patricia (pictured) and Jon Gabriel

from Eagleville, Pa. enjoyed their visit
to Glengoyne which included a
private tour and chocolate pairing.
Andrew Bisom (right)

toured M&H Distillery
in Tel Aviv. Master
distiller Tomer Goren
and friend of M&H
Rotem Ackermann Longtime friends Noah, Jim, Jordan, and Patrick make a
posed with Andrew. point to get together at least once every four years to
celebrate their friendship with some fine drams. Cheers!
WHISKY ADVOCATE, (ISSN 1086-4199; USPS 21582) is published quarterly plus one special issue, by M. Shanken Communications, Inc., 825 Eighth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (212-684-4224). Periodicals postage paid at
New York, NY and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: send all address changes and subscription inquiries to Whisky Advocate, P.O. Box 37367, Boone, IA 50037-0367; go to www.WhiskyAdvocate.com; or call 1-800-
610-6258. Subscription rates: U.S., $22 for one year; Canada, $24 for one year; International, $40 for one year. Subscriptions are payable in U.S. funds. To order a new subscription, go to www.WhiskyAdvocate.com. Unsolicited
manuscripts will not be returned, and no responsibility can be assumed for such material. Whisky Advocate© is a registered trademark of M. Shanken Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted or
reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Copyright© 2020, M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

A LI G H TE R D RAM
Ask Mister Whiskey
M
by TERRY SULLIVAN
r. Whiskey, America’s Neutral grain spirit made in a factory where Is rye whiskey made from rye bread?
undisputed expert in all the switch for the bottling line is turned on —Confused in Connecticut
things bibulous, is back with a human hand. Yes. And vodka is made from whole wheat,
with the answers to a while cognac is from French bread, sour
curious nation’s burning I read that Keith Richards drinks vodka mash bourbon is from sourdough, and grappa
questions about distilled spirits, cocktails, with orange Fanta. Is this a thing now? is distilled focaccia. Most tequila is made
and your sometimes annoying behavior. Also, —Starstruck in San Luis Obispo from crushed tortillas.
Mr. Whiskey knows what he’s talking about Only if you want to grow up to look like Keith
or he wouldn’t be called Mr. Whiskey, would Richards. Have you tasted any of the new whiskey
he? (Mr. Whiskey uses the royal we because alternatives? —Dry in Des Moines
he’s a prince of a fellow.) Indeed, we have. Tried one with Sprite Zero,
paired with an Almost Meatburger, but in the
My fiancé drinks single malt scotch with end we decided to stick with our regular
Sprite Zero. Is that OK? —Fran from whiskey alternative, añejo rum.
Indianapolis
Dump him as quickly as you can. In a country How do you make a purple yam Daiquiri?
of 330 million people there are myriad —Aspiring in Ashtabula
choices for you among men who aren’t We don’t make a purple yam Daiquiri for the
desperately trying to fit into skinny jeans. We same reason that we didn’t make Purple
recommend going to Bardstown, Kentucky, Passions in college. Purple is for Tinky Winky
where male descendants of the Beams and Teletubby and eggplants, and we prefer not
other sainted distilling families are fairly to see either of them in a cocktail glass. If we
thick on the ground. See if you can snag one. feel an unmet need for a glass full of purple,
we order a nice malbec.
What do you think of peanut butter- What do you think of hard soda?—Curious
flavored whiskey?—Trendy in Tucson in Keokuk Was Johnnie Walker a real person?
We think it probably sticks to the roof of your We try not to, but when there’s no way out, —Truth-seeker in Tucumcari
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY; ILLUSTRATION: GARY HOVLAND

heart, but if you want to use it in a cocktail, we think it’s actually pretty easy. Take a shot Yes, and so was Jim Beam, Jack Daniel, Evan
try the Elvis Special: Strain two ounces of of some hard liquor and add it to a glass of Williams, Pappy Van Winkle, J.T.S. Brown,
peanut-butter whiskey through a slice of soda. Bourbon and ginger ale comes to mind, Elijah Craig, William Grant, Duncan Hines,
fried Wonder bread, then shake over ice with or gin and tonic, rum and Coke, vodka and and Chef Boyardee (nee Boiardi). Betty
one shot of a banana liqueur. Serve straight club soda, even The Keef: vodka and orange Crocker was fake, however. Also, some
up in a glass that’s rimmed with crushed Fanta. We make our own hard soda; it’s easier. historians believe that the Famous Grouse
bacon powder, then discard immediately and wasn’t really all that famous, and that the label
replace with a glass of bourbon. Are speakeasies real?—Hipster hopeful should say the Fairly Well-Known Grouse.
Not if they employ PR firms to get the word
Is there vodka that’s worth $315 a bottle? out. Real 21st-century speakeasies do exist. Is it considered bad form to have a cash bar
—Puzzled in King of Prussia They’re called “blind pigs” and they don’t at my wedding?—Meghan from Milwaukee
Yes, if the bottle is wrapped in three one advertise. They’re usually in someone’s It’s considered a crime against humanity. Mr.
hundred-dollar bills. apartment and they don’t have liquor licenses Whiskey insists that you cancel the wedding,
or any other kind of licenses, and you actually call Fran from Indianapolis and pick her up
What is handmade vodka?—Artisanal in do have to know someone. Also you can get on your way to Bardstown to look for new
Arkansas arrested in them. They’re fun. boyfriends.

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What are some classic whiskey cocktails described in the document?

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What is the 'Fresh Faces' article about?

What is the 'Fresh Faces' article about?

114 WHISKIES

Cocktails Made Simple

Scotland’s Newest Distilleries • Made in America Single Malt

54 Cocktails at Home 68 Fresh Faces by Jonny McCormick

64 Manhattan by Jeffery Lindenmuth

11 From the Publisher

13 Dear Whisky Advocate

48 Head, Heart & Tales

51 The Thinking Drinker

95 I’m a Whisky Advocate

We’re All in This Together

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 11

FANS OF THE CLUB ISSUE

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 13

Steel Away to Pittsburgh

At Pittsburgh, the Allegheny

historic style of rye whiskey.

Andy Warhol Museum

Kimpton Hotel Monaco

18 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 19

parks in the country. This area also has nu-

CENTER LEFT: ISTOCK; BOTTOM: PHIL JOHNSON

20 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 21

The Mighty AVERAGE

White Oak HEIGHT

White Oak's Range American

White oak is often known as “stave oak”

Famous White Oaks

Mercer Oak Basking Ridge Mingo Oak Wye Oak

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 23

within New York pizza alone,” he says.

Whisky and a Slice single grain scotch is an ideal partner.

P izza and beer? Of course, we’ve

Deep-Dish Sausage Pizza Margherita Napoletana White Pizza ai Funghi with

24 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

experience that requires being in the same

Walks Into a Bar... malts I have over at my place.’” Lannom, a

T he tavern on “Lodge 49” had

26 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

SAV IN G SPAC E M OD ER N H EI RLOOM SI ZE IT UP

HO LLYWOOD M OM E NT TAK E IT OUTSI D E DISAPPEARING ACT

WHISKY ADVOCATE SUMMER 2020 29

THIS PAGE: ISTOCK; OPPOSITE: JEFF HARRIS

32 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

The Rye on Fire, left,

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 33

straight from the cask on a live video feed, “the

Connecting With Whisky

W hile social distancing has helped

34 SUMMER 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

DIY Cherry Whiskey

1 750 ml bottle of whiskey

Cherry on Top bottle and use within 2 months.

W hile ﬂavored whiskeys are often