How To Build A DIY Cornhole Set
How To Build A DIY Cornhole Set
How To Build A DIY Cornhole Set
Written by
Kamron Sanders
Published 07/29/21
Pin
Share
Email
Take your tailgating to the next level (or simply boost your backyard BBQ's fun factor) with a set of made-
from-scratch Cornhole boards. This no-fuss DIY version features fold-in legs for easy storage, lightweight
construction for effortless transport, and loads of personal styling potential. Once finished, complete your
personalized Cornhole set with some custom bean bags for a perfect pairing.
This tutorial has been broken up into sections to make construction a simple process.
Tape measure
Pencil
Pencil compass
Circular saw
Jigsaw with wood blade
Drill-driver
Small drill bit for pilot holes
Screwdriver bit
Countersink bit
5/16-inch drill bit
Miter saw or miter box
4-foot level
Chalk reel (optional)
Sawhorses or safe cutting surface
Materials
5 8-foot 1 x 3 boards
4-by-8 foot sheet of 1/2-inch sanded (AC) plywood
4 3-by-1/4-inch bolts with washers and nuts
5/8-inch wood screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
High-gloss paint and painting supplies
Polyurethane or other sealer (optional)
Round rubber bumpers
Instructions
Build the Board Frames
1. Cut Lumber
According to the American Cornhole Association, a regulation Cornhole board's dimensions are 48
inches long by 24 inches wide.1 To create a regulation-sized board frame, use a miter saw to cut a 1 x 3
board into two 46 1/2-inch pieces and another into two 24-inch pieces.
Place the two short pieces over the longer piece's ends to create a 48-inch by 24-inch rectangle.
To prevent splitting, drill small pilot holes through the short boards and into the long ones before
screwing, then tightly fasten with 1 5/8-inch wood screws. If you desire to hide the screws with wood
filler, use a countersink bit.
For added strength, each Cornhole board needs one cross-brace. Cut a 1 x 3 board into two 22 1/2-inch
pieces.
Use a tape measure and pencil to mark the middle of each long side. The mark should fall at exactly 24
inches.
Center the cross-brace on each side's mark, drill pilot holes, and fasten on both sides with two 1 5/8-inch
wood screws. Repeat on the second frame. Countersink if you plan to hide the screws with wood filler.
Add the Playing Surfaces
1. Measure and Mark Playing Surface
Just like the frame, the playing surfaces will measure 48 inches by 24 inches. This will ensure the edges
of the plywood remain flush with the frame to prevent damage and splintering while maintaining
regulation Cornhole board dimensions. Use a measuring tape, a 4-foot level, and a pencil to mark
straight lines for cutting or a chalk reel if you have it.
A chalk reel or chalk box is a tool that uses chalk and string to mark perfectly straight temporary lines
for cutting and other applications.
Align the plywood playing surface on the frame until flush on all sides with the smooth side facing up.
Drill pilot holes and fasten with 1 5/8-inch wood screws along the sides, countersinking if you plan to
hide the screw heads. Repeat process on the second frame.
Tip
For added strength and durability, run a bead of wood glue or construction adhesive along the top of the
frame before fasting the plywood playing surface with screws.
If you chose to countersink your screws, fill and hide any unwanted screw heads using wood filler and a
putty knife. Allow the filler to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions, then sand until smooth.
Just like the dimension of the boards, the position of the Cornhole itself is also regulated. A properly
placed Cornhole is centered from left to right, 9 inches from the top of the board.1 Use a measuring tape
and pencil to mark this point.
The hole itself has a diameter of 6 inches, so a pencil compass should be set at 3 inches and positioned
on the pre-determined point for accurate marking.
Tip
The smaller and sharper the jigsaw blade, the easier it will be to make tight turns when cutting wood.
The easiest way to create four identical legs to is make one and use it as a template for the remaining
three. However, you can precut all four leg pieces out of 1 x 3 boards to a length of at least 13 inches
before starting on your template.
The legs will swivel in and out of the frame for easy storage and transport, which will require one end to
be rounded. To mark the circle, first, measure and mark a point 1 1/2-inch down from the top, centered
side to side. Using the mark as a pivot point, use a compass to draw a semi-circle that reaches from one
side of the board to the other. Cut along the semi-circle using a jigsaw.
Warning
Jigsaws can be jumpy when cutting near the edge of a board. To be safe, clamp the board down to a
work surface, avoid loose-fitting clothing, and wear appropriate safety gear.
At the marked center point, drill a 5/16-inch hole to allow for a 1/4-inch bolt. This will be used to attach
the leg to the frame.
Because the board sits at an angle, the bottom of the leg will be cut at an angle. To find the length,
measure 11 3/4-inches from the end of the semi-circle and make a mark. Using a miter saw or miter box,
cut the end of the leg at a 25-degree angle, with the long side of the angle positioned on the mark.
Repeat this on the remaining three legs, using the template as a guide to speed up the process.
To quickly mark the frame for bolt holes, place the legs inside the frame in the "closed" position and use
a pencil to mark the frame through the leg's bolt hole. To ensure the legs freely open and close, you can
slightly adjust the leg away from the corner before marking.
2. Drill Hole
Drill the frame at the mark using the same 5/16-inch bit that was used for the leg. Repeat this process on
all four legs.
3. Attach Legs
Attach the legs using 1/4-inch nuts and bolts and washers on each side. Snug until tight but loose enough
to swivel. The legs should be positioned to where the angle sits flat on the ground when opened.
Adding a brace between the legs is optional, but will add strength to the board when opened. To do so,
cut a 1 x 3 into two 21-inch pieces.
Mark a line about 2 inches up from the long side of each leg, place the brace on the line and drill pilot
holes on each end. Countersink if you plan to hide the screw heads.
3. Attach Cross-Brace
Fasten the cross-brace on each side using 1 5/8-inch wood screws. Repeat on the second board and fill
holes with wood filler if desired, sanding smooth once dry.
Sand all surfaces and edges with sandpaper until smooth and splinter-free.
Paint or stain and seal with your desired finish. If painting, use high-gloss, exterior-grade paint to allow
the bags to glide freely across the top. If staining, finish with a protective sealant like polyurethane,
following the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.