This document summarizes a student paper on the history of muslin cloth in Bengal. It discusses how muslin originated and was produced in places like Dhaka. It was highly valued both locally and internationally. While muslin significantly contributed to Bengal's economy, it was eventually lost due to lack of support from rulers and the actions of foreign trading companies. Recent research has helped recreate samples of muslin cloth. The document analyzes why Dhaka muslin became so famous, differences between historical and modern muslin, and economic impact. It concludes more effort is needed to revive awareness of this important cultural heritage.
This document summarizes a student paper on the history of muslin cloth in Bengal. It discusses how muslin originated and was produced in places like Dhaka. It was highly valued both locally and internationally. While muslin significantly contributed to Bengal's economy, it was eventually lost due to lack of support from rulers and the actions of foreign trading companies. Recent research has helped recreate samples of muslin cloth. The document analyzes why Dhaka muslin became so famous, differences between historical and modern muslin, and economic impact. It concludes more effort is needed to revive awareness of this important cultural heritage.
This document summarizes a student paper on the history of muslin cloth in Bengal. It discusses how muslin originated and was produced in places like Dhaka. It was highly valued both locally and internationally. While muslin significantly contributed to Bengal's economy, it was eventually lost due to lack of support from rulers and the actions of foreign trading companies. Recent research has helped recreate samples of muslin cloth. The document analyzes why Dhaka muslin became so famous, differences between historical and modern muslin, and economic impact. It concludes more effort is needed to revive awareness of this important cultural heritage.
This document summarizes a student paper on the history of muslin cloth in Bengal. It discusses how muslin originated and was produced in places like Dhaka. It was highly valued both locally and internationally. While muslin significantly contributed to Bengal's economy, it was eventually lost due to lack of support from rulers and the actions of foreign trading companies. Recent research has helped recreate samples of muslin cloth. The document analyzes why Dhaka muslin became so famous, differences between historical and modern muslin, and economic impact. It concludes more effort is needed to revive awareness of this important cultural heritage.
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North South University
Spring Semester: 2021
HIS 101: Bangladesh History and Culture
Instructor: Dr. Zerina Shabnaz Akkas (ZrS) Department of History and Philosophy
Section 3
Submitted by:
Student Name Student ID
s…. 181……
Date of Submission: 1st April, 2021
Page 1 of 8 The glorious history of Bengal Muslin
ABSTRACT
Muslin, A magical cloth of Bengal, has been closely connected with the Bengali tradition since ancient times. Muslin cloth was one of the leading export items of the Bengal from time immemorial. It has significantly flourished Bengal's trade and commerce. But in the evolution of time, we have lost this glorious resource. Currently, the present generation has almost forgotten about it. Even a large number of people are also ignorant about its history and significance. Considering this aspect, the main objective of this study is to discuss the origin of muslin cloth, its usage, and its contribution to the Bengal economy in terms of history. Again, how the fabric was lost, its current situation, and how to recapture and revive it, will also be discussed briefly in this research.
Introduction and Background
Muslin is a special type of hand-woven cotton fabric that was made by local weavers of Bengal. It has been deeply involved with the political, economic, and social life of Bengal since ancient times. Muslin is not a Persian, nor Sanskrit, nor was Bengali Word, Muslin derived from the word 'Mosul', which was an old trade center of Iraq. Some argue that the word Muslin came from Masulipatnam (Indian port town). The European trading companies used to purchase the finest quality of the textile from Mosul and addressed the finest quality of the textile as ‘Mosul’ (Banglapedia, 2015). Muslin was mainly produced all over Dhaka. Some places that became so popular are Dhaka, Sonargaon (current Narayanganj), Dhamrai (current Bangshi river, 20 miles west of Dhaka), Teetbady (village of Gazipur), Junglebary (Mymensingh), and Bajitpur. The quality of Muslin cloth differs based on fineness or transparency of texture (Shannon, 2017). There were different types of Muslin such as -Malmal (the finest sort), Jhuna (used by native dancers), Rang (of transparent and net-like texture), Khasa (special quality, fine or elegant), Shabnam (morning dew), Tanzib (adorning
Page 2 of 8 the body), Kumees (used for making shirts), Doorea (striped), Charkona (chequered cloth), Jamdanee (figured cloth), etc. The highest quality of Muslin was known as Malmal, Malmal Shahi, or Malmal Khas (Hateemtai, n.d.). Many foreign traders came from Arabia, Iran, Armenia and China, Malaya, and Java only to buy muslin (Banglapedia, 2015).
Research Questions / Purpose / Objective
The main focus of this research will be to inform the next generation about the glorious history of our Muslin. In this research, I will try to draw the attention of those people who are ignorant about this great heritage and inspire them to research and innovate about the Muslin. The research starts with a Background of Muslin, where Muslin's origin, the prominent places of production, various qualities, etc. are briefly explained. After that, the research explains the popularity of muslin, various usage, manufacturing process, significant events, and current situations of the Muslin industry. Lastly, this research explains the difference between today's and ancient Muslin, what could be done in the previous history and some recommendations to recapture this industry, and so on.
Methodology/ Theoretical Overview
In this study, in most cases, I have used secondary information. For secondary research, I mostly used online journals, articles, websites, E-books, etc. that were related to my research topic. I also used my understanding of my class lectures. From these sources, I have evaluated information and expressed my understandings.
Descriptive overview
Why Muslin was so famous both locally and internationally
Bengal textile Industry was very ancient. But, when the Mughal capital established in
Dhaka the Muslin became very popular. Because local weavers got full support and
patronage from Mughal Emperors and the rich class. The headquarters of ruling
dynasties were established in Dhaka and weavers got support and encouragement
Page 3 of 8 from aristocratic classes thus grew up vastly. In the 17th century, When Europeans
realized Muslin was very profitable, they came and established bases and factories in
Dhaka. Then, In the 18th century the Ostend Company, Dutch in 1663, English in
1669, and the French in 1682 (Banglapedia, 2015). And thus, Muslin became so
famous and created a huge demand in the whole world market.
Picture of noble princes wearing Muslin
The Current Scenario
The Original Muslin variety has cut off all connection with us and is lost forever. However, a variety of Muslin, known as Jamdani, is being used extensively as a machine-milled cotton cloth in the current world market. In October 2014, the Prime Minister of Bangladesh took a project to revive the original Muslin. In 2014, a small team of Drik Picture Library deeply researched the origins of muslin with the assistance of curators, weavers, and artisans. They published a book named “Muslin: Our Story” and organized the first Muslin Festival on February 6, 2016. With vast research and hard work, Bangladeshi researchers successfully produced 6 initial samples of saris (Rezwan, 2021). In recent years, Indian scientists are also successfully revived the secret of making a muslin. Now Bangladesh and Eastern Indians got the capability to make Muslin again.
Page 4 of 8 Picture of Muslin Festival, 2016
Analytical overview/ Discussion
Why did only Dhaka Origin become so famous
To manufacture this unique fabric it was needed locally produced cotton, a special type of water, local skills, etc. Due to the natural environment, this specific type of cotton (Phuti) only could be produced in Dhaka city on the banks of the Brahmaputra River, and around its places. Local weavers used to get skilled weaving knowledge by inheritance (ISLAM, 2016). All of these resources were not available at a time in other places of Bengal. And that is why the finest quality of Muslin was produced only in Dhaka and popular as Dhaka Origin.
The main differences between Today’s Muslin and Ancient Muslin
The main difference is that the original muslin was hand-woven, but today's Jamdani (muslin) is machine-produced. In ancient times, the amount of thread count is used in a fine muslin is much more than the present Jamdani’s thread count. Therefore, the current jamdani is not as delicate as the previous muslin cloth.
Page 5 of 8 Picture: Cureent Jamdani sari
How Muslin brought economic development to Bengal
Muslin took this Bengal textile industry to the peak of development. During the pre- colonial period, various foreign traders used to come from far away only to purchase this cloth. It was one of the most expensive, highly sought-after export items in Bengal and became a good source of income. In 1747, Bengal’s revenue from the export of Dhaka cotton goods, and locally procured for the emperor, nawab, etc. were around twenty-eight lakh and a half at rupees (Banglapedia, 2015). So it is clear that muslin significantly flourished the trade and commerce of Bengal and brought economic development.
What could be done in the previous history to preserve Muslin Fabric
Basically, Due to a lack of support from the Mughal Empire and rich class, the Muslin was lost (Banglapedia, 2015). If the Nawabs and Empires of Bengal would become a little more conscious and not grant the tax-free trade right (Farrukh Siyar's Farman, 1717), and not allowed the European companies to trade cheap industrial products freely then muslin would not have been lost today. By the end of the 18th century, neither they patronized local weavers nor took any initiatives to preserve Muslin. Also, if the British East India Company had not misused trading rights and rather than destroying muslin if they patronize muslin, it could have been saved.
Conclusion
Muslin, a glorious heritage deeply rooted with the Bengali nation, had a lot of potentiality in the beginning. It has contributed a lot to the economy of Bengal. The
Page 6 of 8 use of muslin in different eras of Bengal indicates its historical significance. But, unfortunately, it has been lost from us only due to the lack of support and awareness of Bengal Emperors and nobles. Also, the conspiracy of the British East India Company, greediness, and conspiracy of local officials are responsible for this loss of glorious heritage. However, currently with the help of technology the researcher successfully created some samples of Muslin. At the same time, some non-profit organizations researched and organized festivals on it. Both for commercial and historical value, now it is only our responsibility to spread awareness among new generations and inspire with support local weavers to produce it again.
References
Banglapedia. (2015, March 3). Muslin. In Banglapedia.org. Retrieved from
http://en.banglapedia.org/index.php/Muslin
Shannon, R. (2017, October 17). Achivementlearn. Historical Background Of Textile
