Clear Zinc Pyrithione Preparations: Terry Gerstein, M.S.
Clear Zinc Pyrithione Preparations: Terry Gerstein, M.S.
Clear Zinc Pyrithione Preparations: Terry Gerstein, M.S.
INTRODUCTION
N-methyldiethanolamine
N N-dimethylaminoethanol
N-ethyldiethanolamine
N,N-diethylaminoethanol
These amineshaveseveralcharacteristics in common. All are tertiary
amines;they have difunctionality in the form of alkanol groupsthat
102 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
N,N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine
N-(3-aminopropyl)cyclohexylamine
bis(3-aminopropyl)piperazine
4-(3-aminopropyl)morpholine
ethylenediamine
cyclohexylamine
ETHANOLAMINE
Figure 2. ZPTO-ethanolamine complex
104 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
Figure 3. ZPTO-1,3-diaminopropanecomplex
CH•C
H•0H
ZINC PYRITHIONE PREPARATIONS 105
Diglycolamine
The superior solventpower of diglycolaminecould be ascribedto
the formation of a tetradentatechelatestructurewith ZPTO (Fig. 5).
•k•
•.,•
..• ......
• DIGLY
Table I
1 PolyvinylpyrrolidoneK-30 2.0
1 Anhydrous ethanol 91.7
2 Perfume oil 0.1
fZPTO 0.2
3 }Diglycolamine 1.8
Clear Shampoo
Sequence Ingredient Per Cent
fZPTO 1.7
2 }Diglycolamine 15.3
Hair Gel
2 •Water 23
0.07
6925
JZeTO
3 }Diglycolamine 0.63
additiono15 waterprecipitates
the ZPTO. A 1:1 mixture o15 thisshampoo
with waterhasa pH ot59.5.
The hair-groominggel 15ormulation (Table I), basedupon a poly-
propoxylatedtriol, incorporatesdiglycolamineas both a solubilizer15or
ZPTO and as a neutralizing agent 15orCarbopol resin. This digly-
colamineneutralizedgel contains700 ppm ZPTO and hasa pH of 7.5.
Figure 6 is a photographthat comparesthis gel with a simpleCarbopol
gel neutralizedwith a systemcontaining1% ZPTO dissolvedin 28%
ammonium hydroxide. This particular ammonium hydroxide-neu-
tralizedgel contains200 ppm ZPTO and is cloudyat pH 7.6. Actually,
the diglycolamine-neutralized gel was initially clear but a15terseveral
days,small,well-definedZPTO crystalswere observeddispersedwithin
it. It appearsthat the re15ractive
index o15thesecrystalsis closerto the
re15ractive
index o15the surrounding media than the re15ractive indices
ZINC PYRITHIONE PREPARATIONS 107
".•.....•. - ße.!:
... : •dl..::
:.•
..
• .• .• .,
•::;';'."' 2-'-
... • .•:•
. . ..; :_:.:•::•.':
.........
......•.-••,..•:•-............
.:•:-..:-.
:•,:. ....,.j:;
.... ..
.:Z
:•. '
..... .:•
ß "',."'•'....•..:
,i.' '.•.;•
'
._.
:•. :,...
• '•;•
...... •. }.
..
•-
:'
• .• .&
.--.,-,•?.....::....
:::-;.::.;.
:. '.,¾i,..:.:.;.;:..•,
--:.:. -....:.:
..:-:;:---.?..:':-:;:..
,;% ........ : -;• -.•:.......
•,....
• •. .'1.... .. ......
.;;•.•'.•
Figure 6. The an:monium hydroxide-Carbopol gel (left) contains 200 ppm ZPTO and is
cloudy. The diglycolaminc-Carbopolgel (right) contains700 ppm ZPTO and appears clear,
due to an optical effect
Polyethylenimine
As the search for other amino solventsprogressed,we became in-
volved with a group of amines that were decidedlydifferent in their
properties: the polyalkyleniminesand particularly the polyethylen-
imines. This group was especiallyattractive in that their higher mo-
lecular weight and bulky molecular structure made them relatively in-
vulnerable to subcutaneousabsorption, a particular liability of many
smaller organic amines(8). Polyethylenimineis made by the acid-cata-
lyzed polymerizationof aziridine (Fig. 7). The resultingcationic poly-
mer, dependingupon polymerizationconditions,can have a molecular
weight ashigh as 100,000and have as a compositiona constantratio of
25% primary amine to 50% secondary amine to 25% tertiary amine (9).
108 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
AZIRID•NE H
POLYETHYLENIMINE
(PEI)
planarions. The first (Fig. 8,A) is that a complex is formed with PEI
that is analogousto the tetraammonia zinc complexes. For this to
happen the two coordinationlinkages that form the internal chelate
structureof ZPTO would have to open and allow the total of four co-
ordinationlinkagesof zinc to form with PEI. The secondexplanation
(Fig. 8,B) is that of a decompositionof ZPTO into a pyrithionesalt of
PEI and zinc which would be complexedin alkaline PEI media. It•
this is the case,then a solution of ZPTO in aqueousPEI may exhibit
toxic pharmacologicalproperties similar to sodium pyrithione and
thereforerender its usein cosmeticcompositionsunacceptable.
To determine the nature of the PEI-solubilized ZPTO, a series of
chromatographictechniqueswasemployedin which gel filtration studies
were prominent. Gel filtration, a form of column chromatography,
separatessubstancesby molecularweight. The higher the molecular
weight, the more rapidly the substanceis eluted from the column.
ZPTO has a molecularweight of 318 comparedto approximately600
for the PEI which we used. If the two are not complexedthey should
separateon the columninto two peaks. It wasfoundthat PEI, zinc,and
pyrithionemigrateas one peak. This phenomenon
indicatesthat the
zinc and the pyrithione exist in chemicalcombinationin the PEI sys-
tem. This conclusion was also sustained from data obtained from thin-
layerchromatography
studies.
110 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
'ZPTO
PEI
(Water
0.5
1.0
1.0
3.7% hydrochloricacid 0.44 (q.s.--pH 8.9)
Union Carbide Chemical Co., New York, N.Y.
Lipo ChemicalsInc., New York, N.Y.
ZINC PYRITHIONE PREPARATIONS 111
Table III
Clear Shampoo
Sequence Ingredient Per Cent
1 Sandopan DTC Acid• 20.0
1 Lauric alkanolamide 3.0
1 Water 67.0
ZPTO 2.0
4.0
PEI
Water 4.0
ZPTO 0.2
0.4
PEI
Water 0.4
Perfume-hydrotrope 0.1
3.7% hydrochloricacid q.s.--pH 8.8
Hair-Thickening Lotion
Sequence Ingredient Per Cent
1 PolyvinylpyrrolidoneK-30 7.0
1 Water 40.5
'ZPTO 0.5
PEI 1.0
Water 1.0
'Methocelresin
b 1.0
•Water 49.0
3.7% hydrochloricacid q.s.--pH 8.8
SandozChemical Industries,Hanover, N.J.
Dow Chemical Co., Midland, Mich.
A seriesof prototypeformulations
of otherhair products
waspre-
pared(Table III). In manycases the concentration
levelsof ZPTO are
unrealistically
high in orderto demonstratethe easeof incorporatinga
largequantityof the complex.The clearshampoo formulationshown
in Table III containsSandopan DTC Acid which is an ethoxylated
fatty alcoholmaterialhaving,in addition,a carboxylicacid function.
This acid surfactant is used to neutralize some of the excess PEI that
is availablewhen the ZPTO-PEI complexis formed. The pH of the
shampoo may be aslow as8.8 withoutaffectingclarity. This shampoo
exhibitsgoodfoamingproperties.
In placeof the SandopanDTC Acid other acidicsurfactants may be
used,suchasthe phosphoric acidestersof ethoxylatedfatty alcoholsor
112 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
TRIS(2-AMINOETHYL)AMINE
TETRAETHYLENE PENTAMINE
CONCLUSION
ACKNOWLEDGMENT
REFERENCES
(1) Brauer,E. W., Opdyke,D. L., and Burnett,C. M., Antiseborrheic qualitiesof zinc
pyrithionein a creamvehicle,J. Invest.Dermatol.,47, 174(1966).
(2) ZincandSodium Compounds of Omadine, Tech.Bull.,OlinChemicals,NewYork,N.Y.
(g) Opdyke,D. L., and Burnett,C. M., Privatecommunication, RevlonResearch Center,
Aug. 25, 1965.
(4) Baslo,
F., andJohnson,
R., Coordination
Chemistry,
W. A. Benjamin,
Inc., NewYork,
1964, p. 126.
(5) Yukawa,Y., Handboobof OrganicStructuralAnalysis,
W. A. Benjamin,Inc., New
York, 1965,p. 584.
114 JOURNAL OF THE SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS
(6) Martell, A. E., and Calvin, M., Chemistryo[ the Metal Chelate Compounds,Prentice-
Hall, Inc., EnglewoodCliffs,N.J., 1959,p. 254.
(7) Irving, H., Williams, R. J. P., Ferrett, D. J., and Williams, A. E., The influence of ring
sizeupon the stability of metal chelates,J. Chem. Soc.,1954,p. 3494.
(8) Patty, F. A., Irish, D., and Fasset,D. W., Industrial Hygiene and Toxicology,Vol. II,
IntersciencePublishers,New York, 1963,p. 2037.
(9) PEI--The VersatilePolymer, Tech. Bull., The Dow ChemicalCo., Midland, Mich.
(10) Kabacoff,B. L., Intern. Rept., Revlon ResearchCenter.
(11) Burnett, C. M., Intern. Rept., Revlon ResearchCenter.
(12) Brauer, E. W., Intern. Rept., Revlon ResearchCenter.
(13) Gero, A., Inductive effect and hydrogen bonding as factors in the base strength of
polymethylenediamines, J. Amer. Chem.Soc.,76, 5159(1954).