Sewing Sleeves

Sewing Sleeves Cooperative Extension Service M
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College of Agriculture and
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Home Economics
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Guide C-211
Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles

Specialist
This publication is scheduled to be updated and reissued 5/06.
Sleeve styles that are popular vary with fashion. true bias—above the notches. To ease this area, a line
Sleeves may be set-in, raglan, kimono, dolman, etc., of ease stitching is sewn on the 5/8 inch seamline (1.5
etc. But whatever the style, there are some guide- cm) while the sleeve is flat. A second row of stitching
lines that will help you determine how the sleeve can be sewn just outside the first row, on 4/8 inch (1
should look. cm), if desired. Each stitching is a row of stitches
The most popular style sleeve is the plain set-in which are longer than regular stitches; they are some-
sleeve. It fits into the bodice with no apparent full- times referred to as gathering stitches. The ease stitch-
ness, even though the sleeve is always larger than ing is used to shape the sleeve cap to fit smoothly into
the armhole. the armhole.
A shirt style sleeve is an important set-in sleeve To ease the fullness, pull the bobbin thread(s) until
style. It features a short sleeve cap and is usually the the sleeve cap fits the armhole. Distribute the fullness
same size as the armhole it fits. It fits into the armhole evenly matching the notches and dots of the sleeve to
smoothly also. those of the armhole. There should not be any easing
A kimono sleeve is cut as part of the bodice. Its in the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the sleeve cap.
slope and width influence the fit and the ease of
movement when worn. A gusset may be used to re-
duce strain on the underarm seam.
A raglan sleeve is sewn to the garment with seams
that run from the neckline to the underarm. The
seams may be a simple diagonal or form a special
design effect. A raglan sleeve is easy to sew and
comfortable to wear.
Plain Set-In Sleeve
A plain set-in sleeve must be eased and shaped to After the sleeve is eased to fit the armhole, press
fit the armhole. When finished it should fit smoothly the seam allowance of the sleeve cap to shrink out ex-
over the end of the shoulder with no indication of cess fullness. Pin the sleeve into the armhole, match-
gathers along the seamline. When worn crosswise ing notches, dots, and seam edges and stitch into
grainline should be parallel to the floor; the length- places following these steps:
wise grainline perpendicular to the floor.
To achieve this finish in a set-in sleeve, the sleeve 1. Pin sleeve into armscye matching notches, dots, and
cap requires easing where the sleeve is most nearly seam edges. Adjust east to fit bodice armhole as needed.
To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agriculture and Home Economics
on the World Wide Web at www.cahe.nmsu.edu
2. Stitch sleeve cap to bodice from notch to notch on
the ease-stitching line. Sew with sleeve on top.
NOTE: If the sleeve is long

and has a cuff you may want
to sew the bottom half of the
seam and attach the cuff be-
fore setting the sleeve into
the armhole.
3. Sew underarm seam of sleeve and side of

bodice. Press.
Shirt-Style Sleeve
4. Pin sleeve underarm to bodice armhole. Be sure the
side and sleeve seams match. Shirt style sleeves are not as tailored in appearance
as the plain set-in sleeve. This sleeve style is often
5. Sew sleeve underarm seam on 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) sewn using a flat felled seam. The seamline should fit
from notch to notch over-lapping the stitching smoothly over the end of the shoulder with no indica-
about 1 inch (2.5 cm) at notches. tion of gathers along the seamline. It fits more loosely
underarm than a plain set-in sleeve.
Because of the short cap of a shirt style sleeve, the
crosswise grainline of the sleeve will not be parallel to
the floor. The lengthwise grainline should however,
be perpendicular to the floor.
Follow these steps to set in a shirt-style sleeve.
1. Stitch sleeve length on 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seamline

from underarm to notch with regular stitching.
Change stitch length to ease stitch at notch and
stitch around cap to the double notches. Change
stitch length back to regular length at notches and
stitch to underarm seam.
6. Trim the underarm seam allowance from notch to

notch to reduce bulkiness. Stitch again on 4/8 inch
(1 cm). Do not clip seam allowance.
2. Pin sleeve into armscye of shirt matching notches;

seam edges. Adjust ease to fit shirt if necessary.
Guide C-211 • Page 2

3. Stitch sleeve to shirt by stitching on the line of ease 3. Center a 3 inch (7.5 cm) length of woven seam tape
stitching around the sleeve cap. or will tape on the curve of the underarm seam.
Stitch tape to underarm on the original seamline.
4. Fold sleeve and shirt with right sides together and

stitch seam of sleeve and side seam of shirt. Double
stitch at underarm if desired.
Or clip the underarm seam and press open. Center

the tape over the seam allowances on the wrong
side and pin in place. Machine stitch on the right
side of the garment 1/8 inch (4 cm) on each side of
the seamline.
Kimono-Style Sleeve
Because a kimono sleeve has been cut with the

bodice, the fit is very different from that of a set-in
sleeve. The shape and width of the sleeve will deter-
mine its comfort. If the sleeve is narrow and slopes
close to the body, a gusset (diamond shaped fabric
insert) may be used to reduce strain and allow free-
dom of movement. If the sleeve is cut at a right angle
to the side seam, it provides enough ease for lifting
and reaching. Although a gusset is not needed, the un-
derarm seam should be reinforced using one of the
following methods.
1. Stitch shoulder seam and press.
2. Stitch underarm seam.
4. Trim seam allowances in reinforced area to half

original width. Press seam allowance open above
and below tape.

Raglan Sleeves
3. Sew seams and trim to 3/8 inch (1 cm) from the
Raglan sleeves can be one- or two-piece sleeves. notches to underarm. Press seams open.
One-piece raglan sleeves have a dart for fitting at the
shoulder. Two-piece raglan sleeves are seamed the
length of the sleeve with shaping to fit the shoulder.
Peasant-style sleeves are raglan sleeves which use
elastic or a drawstring to fit the sleeve over the shoul-
der. In each sleeve style, the sleeve forms part of the
garment neckline.
1. Sew shoulder dart, trim to 5/ 8 inch (1.5 cm),

and press open. If seam is used, sew seam and
press open.
4. Match the sleeve seams at the underarm and

stitch side seam of the garment and the sleeve.
Press seam open.
2. Pin sleeve to bodice of garment right sides together

matching notches, dots, and seam edges.
New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of
Agriculture cooperating.
Reprinted May 2001 Las Cruces, NM
5C

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What are the different types of sleeves discussed?

What are the different types of sleeves discussed?

What are the steps to sew a plain set-in sleeve?

What are the steps to sew a plain set-in sleeve?

Sewing Sleeves Cooperative Extension Service M

Susan Wright, Extension Clothing and Textiles

Plain Set-In Sleeve

NOTE: If the sleeve is long

3. Sew underarm seam of sleeve and side of

1. Stitch sleeve length on 5/8 inch (1.5 cm) seamline

6. Trim the underarm seam allowance from notch to

2. Pin sleeve into armscye of shirt matching notches;

Guide C-211 • Page 2

4. Fold sleeve and shirt with right sides together and

Or clip the underarm seam and press open. Center

Because a kimono sleeve has been cut with the

1. Stitch shoulder seam and press.

2. Stitch underarm seam.

4. Trim seam allowances in reinforced area to half

Guide C-211 • Page 3

1. Sew shoulder dart, trim to 5/ 8 inch (1.5 cm),

4. Match the sleeve seams at the underarm and

2. Pin sleeve to bodice of garment right sides together

Guide C-211 • Page 4

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