The Boys Own Toy Maker 1860

/
THE
BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER:
frartiral illustrate §mh
USEFUL EMPLOYMENT OF LEISURE HOURS.
BY VN ^
E. LANDELLS, c
AUTHOR OE "HOME PASTIME; OR, THE CHILD'S OWN'VoWaslfcfc&fk
itlj Jpitmerous @ngrabmgs.
,NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & COMPANY,
346 & 348 BROADWAY,
1 860.
,L:
CONTENTS.
PAGE PAGE
Introduction . V Portsmouth Wherry . 63
1 Lugsail 63
PAPER TOYS .
Paper Boat, No. 1 2 Boat with two Lugsails . 64

Paper Boat, No. 2 4 Boat with three Lugsails 64
Comic Paper Mask 6 CUTTER • . 65
Pyramidical Hat 8 Model of Cutter • . 66
Paper Box . 9 Deck . . 67
Fire Balloon . 11 Companion or Binnacle 68
Parachute . 12 Rudder and Tiller . 68
Kite 13 Windlass and Bitts 68
Second Kite - . 14 Stands . 69
Cloth Kite 17 Main-mast 69
Officer Kite . 18 Cross-trees . . 69
CARDBOARD TOYS 19 Top-mast 70
The Race 20 Bowsprit . 70
The Fox Hunt . 24 Main-boom 70
The Thaumatrope 33 Gafif . . 70
Card Backs 35 Yard 71
Pair of Steps 38 Standing Rigging . 72
Horse and Cart 39 Dead-eyes 73
Soldiers marching out of Fore-stay . 73
Fort 43 Running Rigging 74
Rustic Cottage 48 The Sails . . 78
BOATS 57 SCHOONER - 81
Thames Wherry 58 Schooner-Yacht . . 81
Long Boat 58 Main and Top-mast 82
Pleasure Boat 00 Square Sails . 82
Sailing Boat Gl Bowsprit, &c. 83
IV CONTENTS.
PAGE PAGE
BRIG
Brig in
Main-top
full sail
.
.
84-
84
85
Bird Traps
Brick Trap
....
Rabbit Hutches 114
117
118
Masts 85 The Springle 119
SHIP . 87 Battledore and Shuttlecock 122

Clipper Ship 87 Arrow Parachute 125
BARK
Mizen-mast
-
. 88
88
89
Balls
The Boomerang
....
Trap, Bat, and Ball . 126
129
ARCHERY
Egyptian Archer
Cross-Bow . .
.
.
89
91
Golfing ....
Hockey or Club
132
133
134
Common Bow . 92 The Sucker 136
Arrow . ' . . 93 PRACTICAL PUZZLES 137
Target . 93 The Chinese Cross 137
Position . 94 The Chinese Puzzle . 139
Tip-Cat . 95 The Maze, or Labyrinth 141
Pop-Gun . 97 The Cardboard Puzzle 142
Sling
Stilts .... .
.
. 98
99
101
Moving the Knight over
the Squares alternately
al
143
ANGLING
Rods .... •
.
. 101
103
The Accommodating Square
The Divided Garden
The Army Square
144
144
Floats
Winch
Plumb
....
.
.
.
. 104
105
The Japan Square Puzzle
The Square and Circle Puzzle
145
145
146
Fly-Fishing I . . 107 The Puzzle of Fourteen 147
Flies . 108 The Card Square 148
Green or May-fly . . 110 Puzzle of the Two Fathers 148
Great White Moth . . Ill The Nuns . 149
Bee-fly . Ill The Double-headed Puzzle . 150
Stone-fly . . Ill Cutting out a Cross . 151
Grey Drake . 112 Another Cross Puzzle . 152
Red Palmer . 112 The Glass and CoiiraP 152
Landing Net . 113 Another Glass Puzzle . 153
INTRODUCTION.
This is a boy's book in which the author has tried
with his pen and pencil, to teach some useful things
for the pleasant time of play hours. It is a plain
book, which he hopes will be easily understood by
any boy old enough to be trusted with such common
tools as a penknife or a pair of scissors, and still be
equally suited for the pastime of those who, of riper
age, aspire to manlier amusement.
It is commonly supposed that the trade of the toy-
maker is a frivolous pursuit that has no right to be
classed in the useful labours of life ; and grave men
have shaken their heads at the poor toy-maker, not
because he often and justly may
be blamed for a
great deal of childish work, but by reason that his
labours can only end in the amusement of children.
The author thinks differently, and would even venture
to hint, that if the maker of toys would follow the
good example of those for whom he makes them, and
go to school to learn, his trade would stand higher
amongst ihe useful and dignified callings, and he
VI INTRODUCTION.
himself might perhaps in time be joined as a helper to

the schoolmaster. He will become less frivolous the
more that grave men look kindly on the labours that
endeavour to unite instruction with the amusements
of the juvenile circle. Ours is an attempt in this di-
rection, and not an aimless one at book-making.
Many of our young friends have no doubt heard
their parents join in the lament that has been made
by some clever men on the general want of knowledge
of " common things." Grown men, who could talk
with Virgil or Homer in their own tongues, are igno-
rant of many things of every-day which very
life,
little children are now taught in play and learn with

scarcely an effort. It must not be imagined that we
think lightly of the graver labours of the school-hours
when boys come to learn Greek and Latin, and the
other branches of knowledge so necessary to fit them
to take a place in society as educated men we would
;
only illustrate the aim of this book as a teacher

little
for the play-hours by putting a question Who would :
be the more useful person of two cast on Kobinson

Crusoe's desert island —the man who could only speak
Greek and Latin, or the boy who, in hour of need,
would erect a little hut or even construct a boat from
the lessons learnt in play-hours ?
INTRODUCTION. VI
The boyish days of many of the great men who

have enlightened the world by their discoveries and
inventions have been remarkable for the practical bias
their minds have taken. James Watt, when a boy,
first discerned the power of steam by watching the
spout of a common tea-kettle. The great Sir Isaac
Newton was the first to introduce the paper kite,
when a little school-boy at Grantham. George Ste-
phenson, who in our own day has done such great
things for human progress, was in boyhood always
making lilliputian mills and clay engines in a small
stream that ran by his father's cottage. "Whoever
would be a great inventor to the benefit of humanity
must begin to learn common things in very early life
for so vast is the accumulation of knowledge heaped up
by ages and the inventive industry of mankind, that
if the task of learning be deferred until the business of
life, with its thousand cares and distractions, begins,
knowledge cannot ripen enough, even when a long one

ends, for the harvest of that one ambition which youth
and men may own without reproach — to be great in
usefulness in their generation, to their country, and
to their kind.
All children in a degree love to construct, and this
surely poijts to a most practical means of conveying
1 ;
V 1 1 INTRODUCTION.
instruction when you provide amusement. The boy

engaged in making a toy-house becomes half an archi-
tect in the knowledge acquired of the names and uses
of forms and materials which, without a model, he
could hardly comprehend. He who forms a tiny boat
or cutter, and rigs it himself, acquires a familiarity
with every rope and spar that belongs to the vessel
he acquires a knowledge which, without going so far
as the island desert, may any day of life be of valuable
service to him who inhabits an island home. Knowl-
edge is power ; the more practical it is the more
powerful will it be for our good and for that of our
fellow-beings, and it is hoped that our young readers
will have reason to remember with a kindly regard
among the thousand common circumstances of life,
the instruction imparted in these pages.

THE
BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE.

fajter Cojis*
An endless source of amusement may be obtained

by the use of the common scissors and a piece of paper.
Forms of every variety can be cut out in this way ; fig-
ures; animals, birds, trees, and other objects can be imi-

tated, so that with a little practice the eye becomes fa-
miliar with the shape of each, and, as it is very quickly
done, it is little or no tax on the patience of the juvenile
operator. It has also the advantage of being inexpen-
sive, as the materials cost little or nothing ; old newspa-
pers or any waste pieces of paper will do to practice
upon, and toys can be made in great variety for the
amusement of your young friends in the long winter
evenings.
THE BOY 8 OWN TOY-MAKER.
PAPEE BOAT. No. 1.
Cut a piece of white writing paper, but not of

Fig. 1. too stiff a quality, six
inches by four (fig. 1);
fold it to the dotted
line a,making exactly
one half when folded
to c ; then the corners
b b are to meet in the
centre (fig. 2) ; turn
down the two sides
d forming the dotted
lines e ; take the two
sides between each fin-
ger and thumb, in the

left hand, and with the
right pull it out until
PAPER BOAT.
Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
JYbT
e , e
it forms fig. 3, taking care to turn over the corners at

dotted line e; turn down the two top lines to dotted
line g, pull out the sides again, as before, to make fig.
4 ; a a being pulled out as before described, taking

care not to press the inside, it will form the boat,
fig. 5.
Fig. 4 Fig. 5.
A
THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
PAPER BOAT. No. 2.
Take a piece of writing or cartridge paper the size

Fig. 1.
of a double square,
c
\£ a fold it in the middle
;
\y
\ /
lengthways (fig.l),
S\
^,—&L—.__
A turn up the two
corners to dotted
lines b b, and turn
down the two up-
per edges from c to the remaining dotted line d, doub-
ling in the ends e e Fig. 2.
to form (fig. 2) ; be- \

fore opening it out N
.
w
pierce five small \
notches for the seats a, at equal distances, and be-
tween these again cut out the small square places for
the rowlocks for the oars. Open out the inside, and
form the seats (fig. 3) of pieces of cardboard or stiff
Fig. 3.
paper, to fit the shape of the boat, the two end ones
being made to fill up the corners.
PAPER BOAT. 5
The Oars (fig. 4).—Fold Fig, 4.
a piece of paper the length of I \ ,~~,

the bottom of the boat, five
times, cut out the shape, double over to the dotted
line, which will give the oar greater firmness, and also
improve the shape.
To imitate water, take a long slip of paper, and
Flg5 '
folding it eight times (fig.
^
5), cut out the centre piece,

crumple up the paper alto-
gether, and open out in a
line the places for the boat to rest upon.
The Men (fig. 6).— Fold a piece of paper Fi
^
6 -
five times, about half the length of the boat,

cut it out to shape, beginning at the foot on
the right, cutting continuously on to the left.
When bend from dotted lines to sit-

finished,
ting posture, arms brought forward, and hands turned
down to hold the oars.
Having completed your cutting out, and placed
your boat upright, fix your men one on each seat at
opposite sides to each other. Place an oar in the row-
lock again opposite to each man, and fixing an oar in
likemanner in each man's ha. ids, your boat with its
crew will be complete.

THE B0Y 7S OWN TOY-MAKER.
COMIC PAPER MASK.

This is a highly amusing toy, and can be easily
made out of an old newspaper ; if coloured, the effect
will be much improved, and made exceedingly funny.
This, however, can be better done with a sheet of car-
tridge paper, about a foot and a half square ; having
folded it double (fig. 1), cut out the eyas, nose, and
COMIC PAPEK MASK. 7
mouth, and round the ear for the beard, fold the
;
bottom portion four or five times, and cut it in long

slips, open out, fix the two long side ends round the
head, and by rolling the eyes, and moving the tongue

about from side to side, you will find it give a most
comic and grotesque appearance.
Fig. 2.
THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
PYEAMIDIOAL HAT.
Take a piece of paper the size of two squares (fig.
1) ; double it to dotted line a, turn the corner b to c,

and the corner d, the same way to the other side ; then
turn down the piece e to the dotted line/, and pull it
Fig. 1. Eig. 2.
\
\ -#-
X
£4..
out to a diamond shape (fig. 2), taking care to fold the

corners nicely under each other ; turn down the top
piece to the dotted line a, and the hat will be finished.
PAPER BOX.
Take a piece of paper about six inches square,

Fig. 1.
fold it to dotted lines in fig. 1,
after this the four corners meet
in the centre (fig. 2), which will
give the square as dotted lines,
each fold, to be firmly pressed ;
then at each turn fold again

to the corners the centre of the
outside dotted lines, to form fig.
3. Fold the corners again to

Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
\
V /
r
/ \
/
s \
/ s
10 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
the outer dotted liê

I (fig. 4) ; cut out the pieces
marked 1, 2, 3 } 4, 5,\$, and 8 ; cut through all the
black lines, being very careful not to touch the dotted
Fig. 4.
aaAa
\ /\ /\ /\
\/\/^/\/
/
\/
,/\/\/\
v x/ V^
lines. Fold over the corners to form fig. 6, insert this )
in the opposite sides of the box a a, these again being

inserted into b b, insert again c into d, and again into
/, whkh" will form the box ; fig. 7.
Fig. 6. Fig. 7.
:
FIRE BALLOON. 11
FIEE BALLOON.
Procure a few sheets of well woven tissue paper,
Fig. i. and cut out the gores (fig. 1); paste these
/\ carefully together, making in all fourteen
/ \ strips; look carefully over the surface, and see
/ 1 that there is no slit or hole left. Fig. 2 cut :
/ the bottom end equally off all round, take a

/ piece of thin wire and make it to a circle the
/ size of the neck of the balloon, then have two
/ cross pieces a little bent in the middle to hold
/ a piece of soft cotton, which must afterwards
-J be dipped in spirits of wine, the circular wire
Fig 2
being then pasted on to the • - -
bottom of the balloon.
To inflate the balloon, some

one must hold it up by the
top, and having thoroughly satu-
rated your piece of cotton, place
in the centre of the wires and
set fire to it, being very careful
not to set fire to the balloon;
when the air is well heated with-
in, the balloon will rise to a great height, and in a
dark night will have a very fine effect.
PAEACHUTE.
square piece of paper folded four times wil
form fig. 1 ; then with a pair of sharp scissors
cut out to dotted line, pierce a hole through

all, open out, and having placed threads through
each hole, tie them all rounds and brins^the
remaining ends of the threads down to a /point,
to which attach a piece of cork or paper as
a balance ; the air getting under them, they
sometimes ascend to a great height. I
-
KITE.
Kite-flying is a most popular game with all boys.

It is highly exhilarating, and ought to be encouraged
by every means, as a healthful and innocent recrea-
tion. We are indebted, it is said, to the Chinese for
this invention, and to this day it is one of their most
popular pastimes. The kites sold in shops are made
to sell, but are not necessarily warranted to fly; any
boy, however, by following our directions, will be able
to make one that will.
u THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER.
First Kite.
Take a common sheet of writing paper, double it

Fig. Fig.
1.
down the centre, and cut out 2.
fig. 1 ;
prick out two small
holes for the belly-band, open
out, and bend outwards the
top part to dotted line (fig. 2);
to fix the belly-band, tie a
knob or small piece of paper
to each end of the thread at
the back of the kite, to prevent it running through
the holes. As this is only a small kite, strong thread
will be found the best to make the tail of, as well
as to fly it with; the tail ought to be about fifteen times

the length of the kite, and one piece of paper at the
extreme end will be sufficient to steady it ; * care must
be taken to tie the thread to the right place on the
belly-band, as a great deal of the success of its flying
will depend upon this.
Second Kite.
Kites made with a lath and bow can be made to
any size, by pasting two or more sheets of paper
* If the wind is strong, more weights must be attached to the

tail.
;
KITE. 15
together an old newspaper will answer the purpose

;
as well as anything, unless you wish to colour it after-

wards, in which case it ought to be white
but first you must procure a straight
lath of pine, the width and the thick-
ness of course must depend upon the
size; shape it to a point at the top, notch
a small piece on each side about an inch
from the top, and also at the bottom,
the former to tie the hoop to, and the
latter the string to paste the side and
ends of the paper over.
The Boiv. — This can be made of cane,
but the best thing is a hoop. Thin it down to about
the thickness of a common cane, balance it on your
finger, and then fix it at that point to the top of the
lath with string ; having cut a small notch at each end
of the hoop, fix the string therein, and carry it down
to the lower end of the lath, tie it there, and again
continue the string up to the opposite side of the hoop,

but before fixing with a knot, be sure that your skele-
ton is equally balanced on both sides ; this done, secure
the knot, and carry the string to the opposite end of
the bow, taking one turn round the lath in its way;
from this point carry on the string to the top of the
lath, and again to the opposite corner of the bow, fixing
;
16 the^boy's own toy-maker.
it there ; from there continue the string a little more

than half way down the lath, and after securing it
there, carry up the string again to the other corner
of the bow; fix it there, and the frame-work of your
kite will be completed.
To paper the Kite. —Having pasted your paper to
the size you require, lay the frame upon
it, and with a pair of scissors cut about
an inch outside of all to the shape
afterwards paste the outer portion all
round, and fix it first over the bow,
and then down each side ; allow it to
dry, and then drill out two holes for
—
the belly-band the upper one should
be about one-fifth of the length of the
kite from the top, and the other rather
more than the same distance above its extremity.
—
The Belly-band. Insert the end of a piece of string
into each of the holes a a, and tie them in knots on the
back part of the lath, taking great care not to make it
too full or too narrow. The next important thing is
to fix the string to the belly-band, and when this is
done you next put on the

Tail. —This should be about fifteen or sixteen
times the length of the kite ; slips of doubled paper
about four or five inches long must be tied to it by
KITE. 17
noose knots, about four inches apart from each other,

with a little larger one or a tassel at the end.
Wings may be attached to each corner of the bow,
but they do not at all improve its flying capabilities.
They are made of pieces of paper folded together, and

cutup from the bottom in strips.
The Cloth Kite
Has some advantages over one made of paper, as not

being so soon spoiled by the wet. Calico
or silk is sometimes used, but the
best material is very thin gutta percha
cloth. The frame is made of two
cross pieces placed at right angles to
each other, and secured with string
from corner to corner, over which the
material is sewn, and fastened by quilt-
ing along the string. When finished, the whole may
be detached from the laths, and these being separated
can be easily packed away in a portable compass.
18 THE BOX'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
The Officer Kite.
Toy-makers generally paint their kites with a few

daubs of red or blue, with-
out the least attempt
at design ; but if you
wish to paint your kite,
here is an officer that
will answer your pur-
pose. It must be all
dashed in very boldly,

for when the kite is
far up very small work
upon it would be en-
tirely lost; the coat may
be painted red or blue,
the face full crimson^
and the epaulettes, &c.,
yellow, or gold tinsel if
P
you happen to have any.
Note. —The thickness of the string to be used will of course depend

upon the size of your kite.
Carfrkartr €op.
Like paper toys, cardboard is a material by which
almost any thing can be imitated ; but as it is more ex-
pensive than paper, it will require a little more care,
so that what is cut out should be done with a purpose,
that it may not be cut to waste. Outside objects are
most conveniently cut out with a pair of stout scissors,
holding the card as already described for paper cut-

tings ; the smaller pieces inside, such as windows of a
house, &c., are better accomplished with a sharp-pointed
pen-knife, and a flat ruler; a parallel ruler with a brass
edge is the best, but any other straight line that you
can hold firm on the card with the left hand will
answer the purpose. When any portion is cut out with
a pen-knife, it ought to be done upon a piece of flat
board, to prevent cutting the table. Cardboard has

many advantages over paper; solid objects can be
formed and put together, specimens of which, with
others, we propose giving; but as the Publishers of
thisbook have already issued a useful and instructive
work* on the subject, we refer our young friends to it
for further information, should it be required.
* Home Pastime ; or, The Child's Own Toy-maker.

20 the boy's own toy-maker.
THE EACE.
Cutting out objects in cardboard may be done to

any extent, according to the skill and ingenuity of
the maker such as a farm-yard, with its pigs, cows,
:
poultry, &c; a circus; or, in fact, almost any thing

can be successfully imitated with the common scissors
and cardboard. We two examples in
shall only give
this style — —
a Kace, and a Fox Hunt and other ob-
jects will afterwards suggest themselves.
It will be as well not to attempt too much in the
THE KACE. 21
first essay, but confine yourself to three horses and

riders. The outlines may be drawn out in pencil, but
with a little practice you will soon be able to cut them
out by the eye at once.
The manner horses run at full speed is so much
alike, that one position will do very well for all your
horses: the head and neck w ell
r
forward, the ears
back, the tail a little erect, and all the legs well
stretched out. Cut out with a pair of short stout
Fig. 1.
scissors, commencing at the outer hind foot, continu-

ously round till finished, marking the feet and legs as
carefully as possible.
Having cut out the horses, you can prick out the
form of the saddle and saddle-cloth with the point of
a pin, as well as the eye and nose of the horse, and
the part of the bridle on the horses' heads; or, if you
prefer colouring them, you can do so, making one
;
22 THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKER.
horse brown, another black, and the other chestnut;

the rein may be put through the mouth of the horse
with a needle, and formed of brown thread.
The Jockeys in racing, like the position of the
horses, are also much alike; they sit with their knees
close to the saddle, the body a little forward, and
mostly with both hands holding the bridle (fig. 2)
Fig. 2. this attitude will do for the first and third
rider. Cut out, beginning at the heel of
A
;
the foot on the right hand side, and round
\
to shape, taking care not to cut further be-
tween the legs than the dotted line, which
make him sit his horse properly.
will
The Second Jockey may be represented
whipping his horse, his right hand raised
up, and the other holding the bridle (fig. 3). Having
cut out as before described, you wish to
if
paint them you can make No. black cap

1,
and red jacket; No. 2, blue and yellow
striped jacket and blue cap; No. 3, yellow
body, blue sleeves, and black cap.
Having so far completed the race, you
can try the effect on the table by placing
the men on the horses, but if you wish to
make a more finished job of your work, you
must procure a piece of flat board, and cut
THE KACE. 23
out the Rails (fig. 4). Take a strip of cardboard about

half the height of the men, and cut out with a pen-
knife and and by joining the ends together,
scissors,
make it to any extent you think proper ; to fix them

Fig. 4.
W -a - a
you must split the ends to the dotted lines a, and

separating them will make them stand upright.
The Spectators. — Fold a piece of paper four times
the size you require your men, and cut out as before
described in fig, 2 ; open out and place them outside
the railings in rows (fig. 5).
The Winning -post or stand, can be made of card-

j
board (fig. 7), and made to stand the same as the rails
(fig. 4); place a paper man inside.
Fig. 5. Fig. 7.
THE FOX HUNT.
The number of sports-

men, horses, dogs, fields,
Jf£^ trees, gates, &c, can be carried out to
^S^Ji^ an unlimited extent, according to the
\l^^^j s ^^ an(^ perseverance of the artist,

THE FOX HUNT. 25
As it is in nature with a real fox hunt, the more that

is in it the more the excitement and pleasure, so with
your toy hunt, the more you make the better yourself
and friends will be satisfied and pleased with the ex-
hibition.
Horse running (fig. 1). This is the most common
Fig. 1.
position for a horse galloping, and you will therefore

require more of this than any other; it can be varied
Fig. 2.
a by making the heads of some a little more for-

little
ward (fig. 2). Of these two positions you will require

26 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE.
to cut out, according to the following directions, from

eight to twelve: — Take a piece of cardboard, and com-
mence by cutting out, beginning with the right hind
leg,and round continuously till completed, taking care
to make the feet and legs as good a shape as possible.
The eye, saddle, saddle-cloth, and bridle on the head,
may be pricked out with a pin, andwhen all are com-
pleted they will make a very good set as they are:
but if you wish to make your hunt more finished,
you may colour some of your horses brown, others
black, chestnut, &c; the saddle-cloth inside blue, the
Fig. 3.
saddles light brown, and the bridles can be made of

THE FOX-HUNT. 27
thread. The two positions of horses already described

will do for almost all kinds of straight or field run-
ning, but you will require some in the act of leaping
over gates, hedges, &c., when both your horses and
men will require a different attitude.
Leaping (fig. 3). This is a very good position for
a horse in the act of leaping; must be cut out as
it
described in fig. 1 and 2, and you had better cut out

four or five like it.
Huntsmen (fig. 4). To make a rider for your

horses which you have cut out as fig. 1, the most
natural attitude will be for the huntsman to be hold-
ing his horse with both hands, the body a little for-
ward, and the knees firmly sticking to the saddle.
If painted, all the coats must be red, cap and boots
black, tops yellow, and neckties light blue.
Fig. 4. Fig. 5.
First Huntsman (fig. 5). —The whipper-in or

huntsman may be a little in advance of all the others,
and even before some of the dogs; he should be repre-
sented in the act of cheering them on, his left hand
erect, holding his horn (trumpet), and the other hold-
ing the bridle. You will, however, only require one
figure in this position, riding a galloping horse (fig. 1).
Bider (fig. 6). This attitude is for your leaping

Fig. 6. horses (fig. 3) ; he is holding his
horse well up to assist it over the
gate or fence; you will also re-
quire four or five in this position.
The Fox (fig. 10.) The re-
marks we have already made
respecting the running of horses
will also apply to the fox and
dogs, for they vary but little
in their action; there is, however,

a marked difference in the head
and tail of Eeynard, which must be carefully at-
tended to.
Fig. 10. Fig. 7.

:
THE FOX-HUNT. 29
The Hounds (fig. 7). The one we have illustrated

is the most natural, and of this you will require at
least ten or twelve; if coloured they must be either
black and white, or brown and white, in patches of
every kind.
Hounds (fig. 8). This position will give a little
variety to the pack, but as he does not look so thor-

oughly up to his work, you will not require so many,
say, five or six. If you wish to represent nothing but
a straight run, you would
not require any other atti-
tudes for your dogs, but
you will want to give spirit
to your hunt, to see some of them jumping and
scrambling over hedges and ditches; here is another
attitude
Jumping (fig. 9). Of this you will
•^ not require more than three or four.
Having cut out and coloured all as
before described, you now begin to pre-
pare your ground, which must be com-
posed of fields, hedges, gates, trees, &c.
A piece of thin pine about two feet long
by six or eight inches broad, will make the best stand;
the in equalities of the ground may be made of pieces
of paper, cardboard, or bits of decayed twigs of trees,
sand, moss, &c, and fixed with a little gum.
Gates (fig. 11). These must be cut out of card-

board, and they will not require painting; they are
made to stand by splitting the cardboard up to the
dotted lines, and fixing the ends with gum or paste;
cut out not less than three of these.

Fig. 11.
n
'
L
u
Hedges. Procure if possible some green paper;
fold it together about four or five times, and cut out
to the form of 13; they must be a little higher
fig.
than the gates. Commence cutting out from the right

hand side, holding the paper firmly between the finger
and thumb in the left hand; when completed, twist
the various cuttings together, and you will
have a
a
good imitation of a hedge; you can vary the sizes
little.
THE FOX-HUNT. 31
Trees (fig. 13). —These are also cut out of green

paper, and in the same manner as the hedges, only
much larger and
of various sizes,
also leaving
more length for
the trunks, and
giving more
shape to the out-
line; they must
also vary in size
and form. The
trunks may be
supported by
twisting a piece
of paper round
the five cut-
tings, and fix-
ing them to the

ground with
gum or paste.
A village church, cottage, or farm, may be repre-
sented in the distance, according to the taste and
talent of the artist. It will not be necessary to make
your horses, dogs, or fox, fixtures, so that you may
enjoy a fresh hunt as often as you have leisure.
Old railings, stumps of trees, and other objects,

may be made of twigs, roots, and small branches of
natural trees; and broken pieces of ground may be
formed by a combination of all, with the addition of

pieces of stone and moss, or such other things as may
suggest themselves to the taste and fancy of the
maker.
S
THE THAUMATEOPE.
This is a very pretty philosophical toy ; its name
is derived from two Greek words, one of which signi-
fies wonder, and the other to turn. It is founded upon
the well-known principle in optics, that an impression
made on the retina of the eye lasts for a short time
after the object which produced it has been withdrawn.
When you have made one you will understand it bet-
ter than by any written description.
Fig. 1.
The Boy and the Donkey. —Take a common card,

or piece of cardboard, say five inches by three, on one
side of it sketch a donkey running, and paint it black
3
34: THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
with India|i55i»3k^#lth a lighter wash for the ground

(fig. 3); and in life manner draw and paint a boy in .
a sitting potion, on the reverse side of the card, as

shewn in the cut (fig. 2). Fasten two pieces of thread,
Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
one on each side, at opposite points in the centre of

the card; take these between the fore-finger and thumb
in each hand, twirl them round, which will make the
card quickly revolve, and the boy will appear to be
riding upon the donkey as in fig. 1.
A
rat in a trap, a bird in a cage, a cricketer and
bat,and numerous other subjects may be produced
upon the same principle.
-
CABD BACKS.
Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
If these are carefully made and neatly coloured,

they will make something better than mere toys; they
will serve as appropriate presents to distant friends, or
as ornaments to decorate your own room. They will
J
be also useful to hold any loose cards, or letters, if
hung up on each side of the mantel-piece.

Front view of a Ship (fig. 1). —Take a piece of
clean cardboard about twelve inches high by five
broad, copy the outline carefully in pencil, and com-

mence colouring the upper portion of the sky light blue,
leaving the lights, and mix a little Indian red and
darker blue for the clouds. With the same colours lay
in the distant sea, making it a little greener towards
the front. The shadows on the sails can be washed in
with sepia, and the sails with raw umber, mixed with
Fi s- 8 JK -
a little yellow ochre. The hull
—
—t fel\_. must be a wash of lamp-black and
/ 1 "V a little Indian red, and the bottom
mm /.-/& 1>\ of the ship copper color, the flags
rj *v^'ir an d blue, the yards black, and
re(l
/ / \\ \ the ropes and rigging touched in

/ \ \ with sepia. When these are finished,
/ j
a cut out carefully on a flat board the

S * <
j
^ffj:—^-! \p--4 fore-topsail (fig. 3), along the top of

the yard and down the sides to
a a, and in the same manner the fore-top-gallant sail,
to b &, being careful not to cut the dotted lines.
In the same manner as before described for drawing
and colouring fig. 1, proceed to finish fig. 2 the only ;
difference to be attended to particularly is in cutting

CARD RACKS. 37
out the sails, which must be as follows cut out in the

Fig.
same manner as fig. 1 the mizen- 4.
topsail to fig. 4, and the mizen-

top-gallant sail, also the main-
top-gallant sail to c c. "When
this is finished, paste on or gum
a thin strip of gold-edged paper
round the outside of all edges,
and finish with a bow of co-

loured ribbon at the top of each.
PAIE OF STEPS.
Take a piece of cardboard, and draw out the pat-

tern in outline, say one-third larger than fig. 1, and
Fig. 1.
commence first by cutting out the small
holes for the steps with a sharp pointed
penknife, and same way the
in the
squares inside ; the outside can be cut
out with the scissors. Having cut out
the shape, cut half through the card
on the dotted lines, and bend over first
for the top, and afterwards for the two

sides.
The Steps. — Cut out four pieces of

card the shape of fig. 2, also one-third
L Eig. 1.
r J
larger than pattern ; having done so,
insert the narrow ends into their re-

spective holes, and you have a pair of
\ neat little steps,

HOESE AND CAKT.
Draw out on a piece of cardboard, one-third
larger than the pattern* (fig. 1), and cut out the out-
Fig. 1.
a,
a,
side,
DBDDa
taking care to leave the small projecting pieces
on the end and front, a ; afterwards with the point
of a penknife cut out between the rails on each side,
b, and also very carefully the four small holes on each
side, c ; next cut half through the dotted lines, d,
* All the other parts must be in the same proportion.

40 THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKEK.
and bend over the sides and ends to form the body of
Fig. 2.
Ddddddo
CHQ! 3Q[Z7f
D
the cart (fig. 2), by inserting the projecting parts a

into the small holes c.
The Shafts (fig. 3). — Cut out to shape, and with
Fig. 4.
a little gum or paste fix

them on to the bottom
front of the cart, to the
dotted line.
The Wheels (fig. 4).—

These must be drawn out
first with a pencil. The
outsides can be cut out
HOUSE AND T3ART. 41
with the scissors, but the insides must be done with

the penknife.
Axle-tree. — Get a piece of wood and cut it to the
shape (fig. 5) j and with gum or paste fix it across the
Fig 5
- -
middle of the bottom of

j=| "T^13 ê cart (fig. 1) ; when it
jg
p erfec £[y fay put on the
wheels, and to keep them on you can cut out a small
cap (fig. 6) ; the hole in this should be made Fig 6 - -
and the outside cut round with scissors.

first, [Q)
Your cart being now completed you will no doubt
want a horse for it (fig. 7.) This had better also be
Fig. 7.
drawn out first with a pencil, the harness put in with

pen and ink, or the whole, as well as your cart.
colored according to your fancy. Having cut out the

horse, by dividing the legs a little, he will stand
firmly, and by fixing a piece of thread to each of the
shafts, and over the horse's back, you will find it sup-
port the cart ;
you may also make the bridle of
thread.
SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT.
Draw out in pencil on cardboard the outside of

the fort, and color it in imitation of stone work.
When completed to your satisfaction, cut out the
outline with a pair of scissors, and the loophooles and
gateway with a penknife to the. form of fig. 1 cut;
half through the dotted line at the bottom, and turn

over to make the support.
u THE BOY S OWN TOY-MAKEE.
Fig. 1.
The Entrance.— This is also made of cardboard,

and colored in imitation of stone-work inside, but
with, a shadow over the whole, to give a better effect.
When done, cut out to the pattern of fig. 2, and cut
Fig. 2.
J. J- J- J- -L 1 _L JL- Jj± 1 J_'_L-± JL ±±± ill IrL- 1:1:1:1
half through the dotted lines ; the end turned will

make the stand, the black lines being cut entirely, and
the end bent over from the dotted line; bend over
to the form of the gate, and paste the side of it on to
the inside of the gateway.
SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT. 45
—
The Door (fig. 3). This must also be drawn on
cardboard, and coloured in imitation of old oak being ;
Fig. 3.
done the exact size of space Fig - 4 -
|^ left open behind the gateway, { \

cut out with a pair of scissors, cd
and divide the door up the
centre. Cut four slips of paper
to form the hinges, and bend- en
ing them in the centre, paste
or gum one half of each to the outside of the gateway,

and the other to the door ; when dry, the doors will
conveniently open and shut.
A Stand for the whole may be also made of card-
board, painted stone colour, to which you can paste the
slip of the front, back, and sides on the dotted line of
fig. 5.
Fig. 5.
It has long been a common amusement with boys to

cut out soldiers and fix them in various positions; but

we believe this is the first time that any attempt has
been made to put them in motion. They must be first
drawn upon cardboard, and coloured as neatly as pos-

sible.
Drummer (fig. 6). —He may be a little shorter

p
than
the others, and the coat is the only
difference in his dress, having a
few white bands round the arms
and down the body; coat, red,
trousers, dark grey, and black (
cap.
The Officer (fig. 7) must be
about the same height as the
soldiers,a sword in his hand in-
stead of a gun, and only one belt over the
left shoulder, red coat, and trousers the same
Fig. 8.
as the others.
Soldiers (fig. 8) must be represented car-
rying the gun over the left shoulder, cross

belts over the body, and coloured as before
described; You will require at least six of
these, or as many more as you think proper
to make. Having completed the drawings
of your figures, cut them out carefully with
a pair of scissors, using a penknife for the
SOLDIERS MARCHING OUT OF A FORT. 47
inside portions; when finished, cut two slips of card-
board long enough to stand all your figures upon,

allowing an inch between each figure, and not broader
than half an inch (fig. 9) ; 16^ up the feet of the sol-
Fig. 9.
J
diers to make them stand, and cut several slips of
cardboard the shape of fig. 10, and cut half through
the middle, and bend Fig. 10. over; with a little gum
or paste fix the feet of the soldiers upon
|
fig. 9, one foot in each LI slip ; and behind the
feet fix the piece of card, half to the leg and the other
half to the stand, and so on till you have placed them
all in regular order; allow them to stand till perfectly
dry, and then, by moving the stand forward right and

left, the soldiers will have the appearance of marching.
The door of the fort should be kept closed, only open-
ing it just before the soldiers are made to march out.
The manner of working the figures being kept as much
a secret as possible, and the soldiers really marching
will assuredly amuse your juvenile visitors. The card-
board on which your soldiers are fixed ought to be
rather stout, and painted a brownish tint, to be as
near the colour of the stand as possible.
RUSTIC COTTAGE.
Take a sheet of cardboard about the proportion of

twelve inches by six, cut out the windows and round
the black lines of the door, and half through the dot-
ted lines, which will allow the door to open and shut
(fig. 1) ; this is for the front of the cottage. For the
back, cut out another piece of cardboard in a similar
manner and the same size.
KUSTIC COTTAGE. 49
Fig. 1.
s- \
\ s
y f
For the two ends, cut out two pieces of cardboard

six inches square (fig. 2).
The Out-House. Cut out of cardboard the pattern
(fig. 3), and half through the dotted lines, and bend
Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
\ /
over to shape, having first cut out the black lines of

the door, and half through the dotted lines as already
described in fig. 1.
Small squares in windows (fig. 1). Cut out seve-
white paper, and paste them over the back
ral slips of
4
'
50
and front windows, according to pattern (fig. 4) ;

pieces
of glass can be pasted behind these, and also Fig. 4
red or white curtains may be afterwards

added, if you wish your cottage to have \
a completely finished appearance. Tracing

paper will make a substitute for the glass,
ifyou are not able to procure the real thing.

Before commencing with, the wood- work, wash all
over the front, back, and sides of the cardboard with
a brown colour, to prevent any white work shewing
between the interstices.
The rustic wood-work for the front. Procure a

quantity of small twigs not thicker than a common
quill —they must be quite dry and well-seasoned; first
i cut out pieces to fit the top and bottom of

the windows, and afterwards the two sides,
and then same way the top and sides
in the
of the door and with similar pieces,, but a
;
very little thicker, fit to the length of the two sides ;
and along the bottom ; also along the top, with a small
RUSTIC COTTAGE. 51
piece in the centre of the door. Having got them all
to the correct size, cut off nearly one-half of the under

side of all, to allow them to lie flat on the cardboard.
Fix the wood-work with glue, and while the front
part already described is drying, cut out in a similar
manner pieces to fit the windows, door, top, bottom,
and sides, for the back, and then glue them on in their
respective places. *
Inside of the Wood-ivorh Cut out several pieces

of twigs, taking care that they are not quite so thick
as the supports for the door, windows, &c. ; split them
evenly down the middle, and fitting them first care-
fully to the pattern, fix them with glue. Continue in
like manner till the whole of the front is covered, care
being taken that they fit as close and neatly as pos-
Fi ^ 5 -
sible. The
back of the
cottage
must next
be covered
in the same
manner, un-
less youwish
to save time by making all the inside pieces up-
right (fig. 5), instead of the same pattern as the
front.
52 THE BOYS OWN TOY-MAKER.
The sides or ends of the Cottage. The end on the

left must be commenced by cutting out a frame of
twigs first for the sides and then for top and bottom.
Having previously drawn out the shape of a diamond
on the cardboard (fig. 2), fix with glue to the top,
bottom, and two sides; then cut out small pieces to
the shape of the diamond, and fix them across the end,
and fill up the remaining portions with uprights.
As the end on the right is partly covered by the
out-house, it will not be necessary to cover more than
the outer portion with wood- work. It must be done as
already described, by fixing a piece along the top and
bottom, and down the one side, and the upper portion
of the right hand side, and fill up with small pieces
the inside^ all upright (fig. 6).
Wood-work for the Outhouse.
Pieces must be first fixed round
the door, and down the sides of
the two ends and back, also
along the bottom and top of
each, and filled up with uprights
in the inside.
Having completed your wood-work for the front,
back, and ends of your cottage, before putting them
together paint the three doors a dark green colour.
;
RUSTIC COTTAGE. 53
To fix the house together, cut four slips of paper

five inches by one, double each piece down the middle,
and with paste or glue bind the side and ends toge-
ther in the inside with the paper ; allow it to stand
quietly till and then fix to the ground.
dry,
Tlie Stand. This must be made of a thin piece of
pine-board, which must be first slightly covered over
with a brownish coat of paint ; it should be alto-
gether about sixteen inches long by twelve broad.
The house, including the out-house, should be placed
at equal distance from the ends, and close to the back,
leaving room for the garden and railings in front
fix the house with slips of the paper in the inside to
the walls and ground, in the same manner as before
described for fixing the ends together. The out-house
must next be added, and put together by pasting
slips of the paper to the sides of the house and to the
bottom and ground.

The Porch over the front door must next be cut
out of cardboard (fig. 7) ; cut half FLg 7
through the dotted bend to j~

line, T~
'
shape, and fix with glue and thin '

'
slips of paper under the porch, and after it is dry
paint it the same colour as the doors.

The Hoof. First cut out of cardboard the two
..'.
ends (figs. 8 and 9), the square hole in fig. 9 being for
Fig. 8 Fig. 9
Fig. 10.
\the chim-
mey. The
front and
back to be
cut out in
one piece
(fig. 10),
and half
through
the dotted
lines to get
the bends;
cut out the
porch for
I
the win-
'
dow in
RUSTIC COTTAGE. 55
front,and paste the extreme ends on the inside, to

which fix the two end pieces. %
Top front Window (fig. HL). Cut out of card-
Fig. 11.
board the window to pattern, and
half through the dotted lines ; the
end dotted lines being cut on the
back of the card to turn over to
the front. Cut thin paper for the cross sashes,
slips of
as in the other windows, and paste them on to the

back of the window, and afterwards paste in glass or
tissue paper, as before described.
Roof of Window Porch (fig. 12). Cut out the

Fig. 12. shape, and half through the dotted lines
for the front, and at the back to turn
upwards the end dotted lines. Fix in
the window by pasting the end pieces to
the inside of the roof, and fig. 12 to the
same on the outside.
Fig. 13.
Hoof of Out-house (fig. 13). Cut out
the shape, and .half through the dotted
line, and fix the piece to the end of the
house. The roof may be afterwards
painted in imitation of thatch, or act-
ually thatched with hay, or moss.
The Chimney Cut out the
(fig. 14). and
half through the dotted lines; bend over to the square,
and fix "by pasting lower extremity on the inside. To

Fig. 14. give fi^sh, and make an imitation
stone ping round the top, cut four
pieces [wood the size, and fix round,
Secure te chimney by pasting it to
the end all inside, before placing on
I
the roof, which will not require fixing ;
but before the chimney is secured, it

ought m
be painted in imitation of
bricks, ^th the stone coping at the top.
Bailings in front of Cottage. These can be made
in the same way as the wood-work of the house, by
splitting pieces of wood, and
glueing them on to 1||> other
pieces, the length you require
for the front and sides ; the end
ones being a little thicker; they must be fixed with
slips of card behind the supports. The gate in front
can be cut out of cardboard. The garden may be
composed of moss ; and the walks of sand, small
shells, &c.
I
BOATS.
In the British Museum may be seen the remains of

a large boat cut out of the solid tree; and there is no
doubt this was the manner in which the ancient Britons
first constructed their vessels. In some parts of Wales
and on the river Severn a sort of rude boat may still

be found, called a coracle: it is made of wicker-work,
covered with skins, and is propelled in the same man-
ner as the canoe, by means of a paddle. For crossing
creeks, lakes, or rivers they have the same advantages
as the Grreenlander has with his canoe, by their ex-
treme-lightness. A man could easily carry one about
on his ;back or under his arm.
For many years both ships and boats were made
very clumsy, as if strength and stowage were all that
could be desired. The old bluff bow has now given
way to the clipper ship, which is much longer and
sharper; and for a boat the skiff or row-boat of the
:
present day may be taken as a model of perfection

where speed and lightnA are required.
rig. 1.
Before commencing to build or cut out a boat, it
will be as well to become acquainted with its compo-

nent parts ; but it must first be observed that ships'
boats, or those used on the sea, are much higher and
stronger than those used on rivers only. Here we
have a ship's long boat
Fig. 2.
1*
«. Bow. e. Thwarts or Seats.

b. Stern. /. Tiller.
c. Cutwater. g. Stern-sheets.
d. Rowlock. h. Fore-sheets.
i. Whale-streak.
In boats made for racing there is a board fixed
across the boat for the feet of the rower, called a
stretcher.
Boats with two rowlocks opposite each other are
BOATS. 59
called sculling boats, and are propelled by a pair of

light oars called sculls; when the rowlocks are not
opposite each other it is called a pair-oared boat; if
with two in the middle, opposite each other, it is called

a randan; when there are four rowlocks, none of
which are opposite each other, it is called & four- oared
boat; and so on, up to ten.
Fig. 3.
a 6
D
,
Scull or Oar.
a. Handle. b. Shoulder.
c. Blade.
A scull is a small oar used with one hand, and

requiring a pair, as in the case with oars —one being
placed in the rowlocks on each side. Oars are used
with both hands, and a pair-oared boat of course re-
quires two oarsmen, and so on. The strokesman is
the rower nearest the stern ; the bowman the one

nearest the bow; and the coxswain the one who steers
the boat. The painter is a rope fixed to the inside
of the bow to fasten the boat to the shore. Having
become acquainted with the various parts of a boat,
we
T
shall now give directions how to make one or two,
and afterwards illustrate the different kinds of boats,
and their style of rigging, &c.
60 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEK.
TO MAKE A SMALL PlEASURE-BoAT.

Fig. 4.
Having procured a small piece of soft wood, per-

fectly free from knots, say seven inches long by one-
and-a-half square; mark out with a pencil the keel,
stem, and stern, and with a knife cut along each side
and down the stern; Fig. 5.
gradually cut away

the corners to make
the shape of upper
portion, and then cut away the sides, making fig. 7,
Fig. 6. the bottom of the boat,

and afterwards finish
off the stern (fig. 8).
Having completed
the outside work, you next scoop out the inside with a
Fig. 7. Fig. 8.
small gouge (fig. 9), leaving a small ridge to rest the

BOATS. 61
seats upon; the stern must project a little above the

Fig 9
gunwale, and the sides - -
must have a slight

sheer. Cut out the
rowlocks, and your
boat will be ready for the seats (fig. 11). Cut out
five pieces of wood
about the breadth of
fig. 11, and fix one in
the centre and the two others at each end; the one at
the bow filling up the rig.ii.
corner. Drill or bore a

small hole through the
middle of the second seat for the mast, and opposite
it a corresponding hole in the bottom of the boat, and
rig. 12. with a little sand-
paper polish up
the whole.
Sails and
Rigging. —A boat
of this descrip-
tion may have
one or two sails :
a is called the
spritsail, b the
foresail, c sprit-
G2
sail boom d;
the mast. The ropes which hold in the
sails are called the main-sheet and the fore-sheet.
—
The Rudder (fig. 13). Cut out a small Fig. is.
piece of wood to the size take a small pin,

;
Fig. 14. and having cut it in two, bend it to
this shape, and stick the sharp point

into the upper part of the rudder. Cut an-
other pin in two, double it, and drive the two
points into the upper part of the stern of the boat, fit-
ting the hinge of the rudder into it. A small Fig. &
hole may be made through the lower part of c —
the stern of the boat, and opposite it also in the rud-
der, through which a thread may be tied to keep it
in its place. The thick end of a pin, bent a little,
will make a very good substitute for a tiller,
To paint your Boat. —The whole should first have

a priming of white or lead-colour, and when this is
and sides of the

dry, paint the inside green, the seats
boat black, and the bottom green, and then you will
have a very nice pleasure-boat.
There are various styles of rigging adapted to sail-
ing-boats ; but the one illustrated in fig. 12 is prefer-

able to all others for juvenile sailors, being much
easier to manage, and not so liable to capsize, as when
a boom is used to keep out the sail.
BOATS. 63
There are many different kinds of rig, though that

in fig. 12 is the
most common.
Some of the water-
men on the coast
of England use a
kind of deep boat,
rigged with two
spritsails and a
jib ; they sail very ===
fast, and go out to

the ships at sea in all kinds of weather.
Ships' boats, and those used by the coast-guard
against smugglers
have what is call-
ed a lugsailj or
squaresail; it is
more difficult to
manage than the
spritsail, and
ought therefore to
be only used in
the hands of experienced sailors.
Boats on a large scale, rigged with two or more
sails of this kind, are much used by the fishermen
at Margate, Deal, &c. In the hands of skilful seamen
they are excellent sea-boats, and their crews have

saved the life of many a shipwrecked mariner.
Boat with two Lugsails.
Having noticed the various characteristics of dif-

ferent boats, we shall continue the subject to the
making of a yacht, and the rigging and s'ailing of the

various classes of vessels.
CUTTER OR SLOOP.
There is nothing in which the professional toy-
makers have more improved than in their boats and
ships. It is not long since the most clumsy and shape-
less things were sold in shops and bazaars, generally
without form or design but within the last few years

;
the trade has so much progressed in this particular

branch, that the tiny craft may now be seen in all the
best toy-shops, executed in many instances to scale,
and perfectly correct in all their proportions. Yachts,
schooners, brigs, ships, and even steam-packets, with
their machinery, can now be purchased complete; but
the design of the present work is to teach boys to
make their own toys, whereby they will gain both
amusement and instruction, and save their money.
With the cutter or sloop-rigged yacht, and the
uses of its various parts every boy would do well to
become acquainted, as he will learn practical informa-
tion that will always be of use to him through life.
To commence, you must procure a nice soft piece of

5
66 THE BOYS OWJNT TOY-MAKER.
wood, as free from knots as possible, say about fourteen

inches long by five inches square ; take a ruler, and
mark with a pencil two lines along the centre of the
bottom for the keel, and up the end for the stem
Fig - L (fig. 1), as in the
dotted lines; cut
along outside
these -with a
sharp knife to an
equal depth of half an inch, then with a gouge scrape
away the wood on both sides forming the centre, or
midships, first, and gradually cut away to the shape
of fig. 2. The midships (fig. 3) being first complet-

Fig. 2. Fig. 3.
ed, you work away next to fig. 4 for the bow and
Fig 4 Fig. 5.
-
stem, and then to

-
fig. 5 for the
\ stern; these latter portions must
!
gradually taper down towards t
the keel ; the latter is called the _
sheer, and the former the cutwater in yachts and ;
clipper ships these are much finer than in other ves-

CUTTER. 67
Having cut out the shape to fig. 6, you must

now carefully finish
off the model, taking
care that each side is
perfectly true. The

stem and stern must project a little above the gun-
wale, with a slight curve in the centre or midships to
improve the shape.
The Hold, or Inside (fig. 7). Scoop out with a
gouge very gradual-
ly, first cleaning the
sides all round, and |
then you can hollow

out the rougher portions more freely.
The Deck (fig. 8) must be cut out of a thin piece
of wood to the exact
size of your yacht,
I J
o _ j> jiav^ n g previously left
a small ledge, as the
dotted line in fig. 7, for it to rest upon. Having fit-
ted your deck as neatly as possible, before securing

it cut out the holes for the fore and aft-hatchway,
companion, rudder, mast, and bitts for the windlass.
Fix in firmly, but without glue ;
painters' putty is
the best to fill up any imperfection.
Main-hatchway (fig. 9), Fore-hatchway (fig. 10),

;
OS
Companion or Binnacle (fig. 11). Cut out to form,

Fig. 9. Fig. 10. ' Fig. 11.
and insert the lesser ends of each into their respective

holes.
Having now completed the hull of your vessel, take

a piece of sand-paper and polish it carefully all over.
The Rudder and Tiller (fig. 12). Cut out to the
2
i~!f* proper shape and size, placing the small end
'
t
k through the hole in the stern ; fix with a piece
J of strong thread or small string to the stern
post of your yacht, about one-third from the keel
next insert the tiller into the upper end of the rudder.
Windlass and Bitts (fig. 13). Cut out, join toge-
ther, and fix in the two holes
in the fore part of fig. 8.
Previous to proceeding with

the masts and rigging you i
had better first paint the

hull with a priming of lead color all over, outside and
in ; when dry, paint the inside of the bulwarks, deck
and hatchways a light stone color ; the bottom, to
about half way up the sides, copper color (mix a little
of this with the deck color) and paint the companion
;
and windlass, and the upper sides of the vessel, all

black.
CUTTER. 69
Figs. 14 and 15 are two stands cut out of pieces

of wood to the shape of
Fi ^ u - Fi s- 15 -
the bottom of your

yacht ; fix them about
one-third from each end
for it to rest upon.
The Masts.
For the Main-mast (fig. 16) get a straight piece of
wood the length of the deck of your yacht, round
it carefully, taking care to leave the projecting
portions at the top of the trunk. These are
called the tressel-trees. The upper portion or
trunk is nearly square, with the edges just turn-
ed ; a smaller square is left on the top of all, on
which is afterwards fixed the cap. The lower
end must be fined to a point to fix in the bot-
tom of the vessel.
The Gap (fig. 17), in small vessels, is gener-
ally made of iron, but in larger ones of p
wood bound with iron. To make it, get pig. 17.
a small piece of tough wood, cut out a round and

a small hole nearly close together, and cut to
rig. i6. shape.
The Cross-trees (fig. 18), are formed also of tough
1H1
3
_ thin pieces of wood about the length of
FIG.I8. the breadth of the deck. Large yachts
sometimes have two, but mostly only one ; they are

secured to the top of the tressel-trees and are a sup-
port to the
Top-mast (fig. 19). This is about two-thirds the
Fig. 19.
length of the main-mast, and thinner in pro-
portion, gradually tapering towards the top,
I on which is fixed a small round cap ; there is
a small square portion at the bottom through

which passes a small pin or fid resting upon the
tressel-trees ; the top of all is called the trunk.
The Bowsprit (fig. 20) is also quite round,
except the part which goes inside, which should
be square, and not quite so thick as the main-
mast ; at the inner end is a n i i
small hole^ through which

passes a pin to fix it to thebitts ; altogether it should
be about two-thirds the length of the vessel.
Main-loom (fig. 21). This also should be about

S^ ——
Fig 2L
— Dl the length of the bow-
-
sprit, but much thin-

ner ; the inner portion is a half circle which works
round the main-mast at the outer ends are two
;
blocks, one above and one below.

Gaff (fig. 22). The same shape, only smaller and
thinner in proportion, three g>a
Fig. 22.
n r —
CUTTEK. 71
small blocks are fixed on the upper part, and one be-
low at the end.
The Yard (fig. 23) is a long thin spar, nearly the
length of the main- rig. 23.
mast, but not thick-

er than the top-
^ M. _X_
mast; there is one block in the Tipper centre, and two
below directly under the one above, and two small
holes at each end passing downwards.
To paint the Mast and Spars. The main-mast —
from the bottom of the tressel-trees must be white
upwards, also the bottom part of the top-mast-cap
and cross-trees, the trunk of the top-mast, all the
main-boom and gaff, a very small portion of the ex-
treme end of the bowsprit, and all of it that is inside
the yacht.
—
To fix Mast and Bigging. Having previously
made a small hole in the bottom of the hull, correspond-
ing with the one on deck, insert the lower end of the
main-mast and fix it firmly, with a slight inclination
backwards, and having made a hole in the front of the
bulwarks close to the stem, place in the bowsprit from
the inside. In large vessels an iron ring is attached
to the stem, through which it also passes on the out-
side.
;
Standing Kigging (fig. 24).
These ropes are so called from being generally

stationary ; they are much thicker
and stouter than any others, being
used as supports a to the masts

they are named //I as follows:-
The Main- rig gin g or

Shrouds (c) is co mposed of
three stout ropes on each side of
Standing Rigging.
the mast, passing over the tressel-trees and down

CUTTER. 73
to the sides of the vessel.In large yachts, they pass

round large blocks, called " dead eyes ; " these
again are tightened by smaller ropes passing
through another set of dead-eyes attached by
iron hoops to the sides of the yacht.
Buck-stays (d) are two ropes of the same
and pass round the front of the main-
thickness,
mast to the back of the upper portion of the
tressel-trees, half way down. They are made
of the same thick rope as the shrouds. of One end
the other smaller ropes is hooked to rings on each
quarter of the vessel, passing upwards through the

blocks above, down again, and round two other double
blocks, which are tightened by smaller ropes passing
through them to corresponding blocks a little in front
of the other ends on each quarter.
Fore-stay (&). —This is also made of the same stout
cord; the upper end passing over
the back of the top of the tressel-
trees, and the lower end round a
large dead-eye, and by smaller
ropes attached to the stem of the
cutter.
Top-mast Bigging. — Having
fixed the cap on the square of
74 the boy's own toy-makek.
the trunk of the main-mast, insert the narrow end of

the top-mast first through the tressel-trees and then
through the cap, and fix it by placing a small pin
through the bottom of the top-mast.
Top-mast stays (e e) secured to the trunk of the
top-mast they come down on each side, and over the
;
ends of the cross-trees, to the dead-eyes on each side

of the yacht.
Fore-top-mast stay (a). —This is also secured to
the trunk, and passes through a block at the end of
the bowsprit to the deck.
The Bob-stay (g) is a support to the bowsprit, being
fixed to the end, coming down to a cleet on one side
of the stem, and secured on deck.
Vane (/), fixed on the very top of the mast it ;
moves round on a spindle, and points to the direction

from which the wind blows.
KuNNING KlGGING (fig. 25).
The name given to ropes or halliards, for hoisting

up and down the sails, &c; they are generally smaller
than the standing rigging, and pass through blocks
from two to four times each.
—
Main-boom (e). This is attached to the main-mast
by a small rope passing through each end of the half
CUTTER. 75
circle. The outer portion is supported by a rope pass-

mg from a block at the top
of the main- mast trunk, down
through another block at the
end of the boom, and through
the upper one again down to the
deck ; it is kept in its place
by the main- sheet (n), a rope
pa ssing through double
Kunning Rigging.
blocks —one being attached to the boom, and the other

to an iron traveller on deck.
TJie Gaff (d) is also secured to the mast in the
76 THE BOY ?
S OWN TOY-MAKER.
same manner; but as it is required to hoist the main-

sail up and down, it is furnished with a double block
near where it mast on the upper side, and
joins the
—
two single blocks one near the centre, and the other
between that and the end of the yard ; also a small
block at the extreme end downwards.
The Mainsail Halliards (p) pass from a double
block at the bottom of the trunk of the main-mast
through another double block in the gaff, and from
the upper again to the deck.
—
Peak Halliards (c c). These hoist up the outer
end of the gaff and main-sail they first pass from:
the third block below the top of the trunk of the

main-mast, coming through the inner block on the gaff,
up again and through the same block above, down

through the outer block on the gaff and up again
through the second block on the trunk of the main-
mast.
Jib Halliards (g). —A block with a hook is attached
to a ring in the upper corner of the jib, through which
passes a rope travelling from a block just in front of
the cross-trees, and through these to the deck.
Foresail Halliards (Ji), are secured to the fore-
sail in the same manner as the jib, and also hoisted
by two blocks the upper one attached just below the

;
cross-trees.
;
CUTTER. 77
Jib Topsail Halliards (q). A single rope passes

from the upper corner of the sail through a small
block in the front of the trunk of the top-mast down
to the deck.
Gaff Top-sail Halliards (r) pass through a block
in the top of the mast, and down to the deck.
Half Top-sail Halliards (s) also pass through a
hole in the top-mast, or through a small block there,
and down to the deck.
Square-sail Hallyards (t) are three in number
one passes from the centre of the sail up through a
block under the front of the cross-trees and down to
the deck ; two others are hooked to each of the upper
corners of the square-sail, passing through holes in
each end of the yard ; they travel through blocks
secured to the upper main-rigging just below the
cross-trees.
^
The Sails (fig. 26).
In all ships the sails are made of stout canvas,

sewn together in long strips ; a rope is likewise sewn
all round the outer-side, to give them additional
strength. For your little yacht white calico will best
answer your purpose.
The Main-sail (a) is the largest the upper por- ;
tion is laced through a series of small holes to the

gaff : being securely fastened at each end, it is at-

tached to the mast by hoops which travel up and down.
Fig. 26.
The Sails.
The Storm Mainsail (b) is made in the same way,
only smaller altogether.
CUTTER. 79
The Fore-sail (c), like the main-sail is attached to

hoops which travel up and down the fore-stay, and is
hoisted up by blocks placed under the cross-trees.
The Jib (p) is a sail on the bowsprit the lower ;
end is hooked to a ring called a traveller, and hoisted

up by blocks at the upper corner to others above the
cross-trees.
Storm Jibs (e, f, g and h) are made the same as

the jib, but smaller in proportion.
Jib Top-sail (i) same shape as jib, but also
;
smaller ; it is laced to the fore-stay, and hoisted up

to the top-mast head, the front corner being secured
by a rope, passing through a small block at the end
of the bowsprit, and from there to the deck.
Square-sail (j), hoistedup by a block in the centre,
passing through or under the cross-trees, and down to
the deck, and one at each of the upper corners, through
the ends of the yard, to the main-mast head, and down
to the deck.
Half Top-sail (k), hoisted up to the top-mast
head, the outer lower corner passing through a hole
at the end of the yard, and again through another
block under the centre of the yard, and down to the
deck; the inner lower corner of this sail is also brought
down on deck.
Gaff Top-sail (l), also hoisted up to top-nlast
;
80
head, the outer corner passing through a block or hole

at the extreme end of the gaff, passing under it to
another block near the mast, and down to the deck
the inner lower corner also passes straight down by
the mast.
Reefs. —A series of short cords for the purpose of
tying in a portion of the sails ; there are generally
three rows in the main-sail and one in the fore-sail of
yachts; none of the other sails have any.
Reef-tackle. — These are to fasten the ends of the
respective reefs to the main-boom.
Sheets. —Used to haul in the sail, .and make it
stand to the wind.

Main-sheet is reefed through double blocks ; one is
attached to the main-boom, and the other to a " horse/'
or iron rod on deck.
Fore-sheet.—- This also travels on an iron rod to
either side of the vessel.
Jib-sheets. — This sail has two —one on each side.
Gaff Top-sail-sheet is reeved through a sheave at

extreme end of the boom.
Half Top- sail-sheet passes through a block at the
end of the main-yard ; through another below the
centre of the yard, and down to the deck.
Jib Topsail-sheets. —This sail like the jib has two
sheets —one on the port, and one on the starboard side.
SCHOONEK.
Next to the cutter the schooner is the favourite

rig for yachtmen ; hut it is more adapted for vessels
of larger size. The schooner has two masts, and they
are in two parts each, the same as the cutter. The
lower portion is called the fore-mast, and the after one
the main-mast ; the upper portions are called the fore-
top-mast, and the main-top-mast ; they are joined
together as in the cutter, through a cap, and the
6
bottom of the top-masts secured to the tressel-trees,

the main-mast being a little longer than the fore-
mast.
The main-mast is rigged similar to the one
mast in a yacht, having a main-sail and booms,
and over all a gaff top-sail. On the foremast it
?
has a fore and aft fore-sail ; in the front of the
fore-mast it has three square yards : the lower
one called the main-yard, the one above it is the
top-sail-yard, and the upper one of all is the top-
gallant-yard. The sails belonging to these are
laced on the main and main-top gallant yards,
le square-sail being only used in going before the
wind, and it is hoisted up to
the yard from the deck. "When
the square-sail is not set, and
the vessel sailing with a side-
wind, the and
fore-stay-sail
jib are set, as shewn in the en-
graving.
Another distinctive feature
between the cutter and the
schooner is the bowsprit, where
instead of being in one piece
as in the former, it is in two ; the part attached to
SCHOONER. 83
the bow is called the bowsprit (1); there are two caps
fixed on this, through which the outer portion, called

the jib-boom (2), is hauled out. Two bob-stays (3)
support the bowsprit to the cut-water, as well as two
or more ropes, called guys or shrouds, which lead
from the end of the bowsprit to the sides of the ves-
sel (4), the jib-boom being in like manner supported
by guys (5), with the addition of one through the
dolphin-sticker (6), to the bow of the schooner.
Vessels of this description are sometimes rigged
without yards, occasionally using one large square-
sail. The masts generally rake a little, and they sail
very fast, particularly on a wind.
84: the boy's own toy-maker.
BKIG.
Brigs and ships are distinguished as square-rigged

vessels —the principal sails being set across the masts
instead of fore and aft. Like the schooner, they have
two masts ; the difference being that each mast has
three distinct parts in the place of two, the lower por-
" ;
BEIG. 85
tions being called the fore-mast, and tlie after one the
main-mast. The various
parts are joined together !,
similar to those already

described in cutters and
schooners, only the lower
masts have, in the place
of two cross-trees, two
round tops ; they serve as T
greater supports to the
main-top-mast, &c. Above
the main-top-mast is the main-top-gallant-
mast, and this is fixed to the former by a
cap and cross-trees similar to those already

described for a cutter : — 1, trunk, on which
the royal is set ; 2, top-gallant-mast, on
which the top-gallant-sail is set ; 3, the
cap ; 4, cross-trees ; 5, top-mast, on which
the top-sail is set ; 6, cap ; 7, round top ;
8, main-mast. Both masts are alike, the

after or main-mast being a little the longer.
The sails of a brig are — 1, the main-sail ; 2, main-
top-sail ; 3, main-top-gallant-sail ; 4, main-royal ; 5,
fore-sail ; 6, fore-top-sail ; 7, fore-top-gallant sail
8, fore-royal ; 9, the spanker ; 10, the jib ; 11, fore-

top-mast stay-sail ; 12, main-stay-sail ; 13, main-
;
top-mast stay-sail ; 14, main-top-gallant stay-sail

15, fore-studding-sail, 16 ; fore-top-mast studding-
sail ; 17, fore-top-gallant studding-sail.
The same are used on tlie main-yard, and are
called the main-top-gallant studding-sail, &c. ; these
sails, however, are only used occasionally, in light
winds and fair, as well as the flying-jib, 18.
Brigs are much used in the merchant service, and
in the coasting trade. Several thousands of this class
of vessels are used in the coal trade alone. The cele-
brated Captain Cook firstwent to sea in a small brig,
which, until lately, might be seen as a river police
moored in the Thames near Somerset House.
station,
Eobinson Crusoe, our young readers may remember,
also first sailed in a brig.
;
CLIPPEE SHIP.
This is the manner in which all the largest ships

are rigged ; formerly it was the custom to have very
square-built vessels with very long masts ; but in the
modern clipper ships they are much shorter in propor-
tion to the extra length and sharpness of the vessel
they also rake a little more. A ship has three masts,
and all square-rigged. The description already given
of a brig will answer for a ship, the two first masts
being the same as well as the sails and their respective
names ; the third mast is the same, but much shorter
— it is called the mizen-mast, mizen-top-mast, mizen-
;
88 THE boy's own toy-maker.
top-gallant-mast, and mizen-royal. The sails are the

mizen-top-sail, mizen-top-gallant-sail, mizen-royal,
and spanker.
A BAEK
Is also a three-masted vessel
but the difference from a ship is
in the rigging of the mizen-mast,

which instead of having square
yards on all the three masts alike,
the after one is rigged exactly like
a sloop, being in two pieces, with
cross-trees, and carrying a gaff
topsail
; they are preferred in the
merchant service as they do not
require so many hands to work
them.
AECHEET.
One of the most ancient and universal of all

weapons is the bow ; it is fre-
quently alluded to in Holy Writ,
and it is very remarkable that
the shape of the modern bow is
very nearly the same as we find
it represented upon the early
Egyptian sculptures. That of the
Greeks and Eomans was also simi-
lar in shape, but a little more orna-
merited. The Saxon specimens and those of

early
nearly every other nation appear to have been of the
same form.
By this simple but powerful weapon empires
were anciently subverted, and England gained much
of her fame by In the time of Edward III. the
it.
glory of the long-bow may be said to have been at

its zenith, and that monarch appears to have been
very anxious that its lustre should remain untarnish-

ed. It was during this king's reign the famous battles
of Oressy and Poictiers were fought the former on
;
the 26th of August, 1346, and the latter on the 19th

of September, 1356. Another signal victory, ascribed
to the skill of the English archers, was at the battle of
Agincourt ; this was under Henry V. in the year 1415.
It is said that James I. of Scotland, during his
confinement in England, was so struck with the spirit
and gallantry of the English archers, that on return-

ing to his own country, he established the Koyal
Company of Edinburgh Bowmen. The society still
exists, and is the Queen's Body Guard in Scotland
at the present time.
The Honourable Artillery Company of London
owes its origin to a society of archers in the time and
under the patronage of Henry VIII. They first held
their meetings at Spitalfields but when the " fields "
;
ARCHERY. 91
were broken up for bricks and buildings, the Artillery

Company removed to Bunhill Fields, which they still
retain under the original title of the New Artillery
Ground.
In 1682, there was a great cavalcade and grand
entertainment given by the archers of Finsbury.
Charles II. was present on the occasion, but the day
being rainy he was soon obliged to leave thefield. So
late as 1753 targets were erected in Finsbury Fields

during the Easter and Whitsun holidays, when the
best shooter was styled captain for the ensuing year,
and the second, lieutenant.
The Cross-Bow
Was also a popular weapon in England ; the arrows
shot from it were called quarrels or bar-bolts, which

is synonymous with the arrow of the long-bow ; it

was fastened to the stock and discharged by means of
a catch, or trigger, which most probably gave the
notion of the lock of the modern musket. It is said
they were used at the battle of Hastings, and Harold's
death was caused by one of them. After the intro-
duction of gunpowder the science of archery declined
as a military art, but from the glory and renown
which Englishman achieved by the use of the bow
and arrow it is to this day practised in England, prin-
cipally as a healthful and elegant accomplishment.
How to make Bows and Arrows. The most easy
method* is to take a common cane, cut a small notch
near each end, and tie a piece of small cord or twine
-
:Fig 1
-
—
-
thereto, giving it a slight
«**^__ ^^"^^ curve, (fig 1). The best
bows are made of yew-tree, laburnum, acacia, or
.
thorn. The wood ought to be free from knots-; two

pieces are joined together, the back being of different
wood to the front, and the grain reversed. The flat
or outward part of a bow is called its back, and the
inward part the belly the proper length for a
;
Fig. 2.
youth should be from four-and-a-half to five fee

ARCHERY. 93
the most finished have their ends tipped with horn

(% 2).
Arrows are generally made of white light wood,
such as pine, ash, &c. ; the most finished are varnish-
ed. The length of the arrow must be in proportion
to the size of the bow ; the nicks of the best are cased
with horn, and should fit the string exactly. The
principal thing to be attended to is that they are per-
fectly straight, and the feathers can be tied with a
piece of strong thread, the lower portion being about
half an inch from the end ; a Fig. 3.
grey goose feather is the best «^s

of all for the purpose.
It is not necessary for the young archer to have
all the equipments of a complete bowman ; our object
being to give such directions as will enablehim to
make a bow and arrow, and use them properly. Hav-
ing made these, he must have an object to shoot at,
and that is generally a target (fig.
4). They are made of plaited straw

bands wound round a centre and
sewn together ; over this is placed
paper or canvas, and painted
white ; a series of four circles is
then painted upon it at equal

distances, the inner one is called the bull's-eye, and

the great object is to hit this if possible.
Position in shooting (fig. 5). The archer taking
his stand before the target, his
face being a little inclined to the
right turning slightly round so
that his eye and the target are in
a direct line ; the body perfectly
'
upright, with the left foot slightly

in advance, and holding the bow
horizontally in the left hand, the
fore-finger holding the arrow se-
cure on the wooden part of the
—
bow, in the centre the right hand
fixing the nick of the arrow on
the string where it is held fast be-
tween the first and second finger,
the fore-finger on the left hand is next removed from

the arrow, the centre of the bow grasped tightly,
gradually raise the bow with the left hand, at the
same time pulling the string by the right, and when
the arrow is drawn about two-thirds of its length,
the nick of it should be brought close to the right ear
and the aim taken ; this must be done quickly, and
it can only be done well by practice.
TIP CAT.
This is a common sport among boys more ;

partic-
ularly in the country; it has a great advantage in being
easily made with a common knife. The piece of wood
which is called the " cat " is about six inches in length
and from one-and-a-half to two inches in diameter;
gradually tapering from the middle to each end.
The cudgel with which the game is played is about
the length and thickness of a common hoop-stick. The
player taking this in his right hand strikes one end of
the cat smartly, which causes it to rise in the air, high
enough to be struck before it again falls to the ground.
There are several ways of playing the game of cat.
The most common is to make a ring, selecting a piece
of flat ground ; one boy holds a piece of string that
willmake the circle required at the centre, and another
boy taking the extremity of the string, and with a
piece of chalk he walks round and forms the ring the :
player takes his stand in the middle, and his business

is to strike the cat outside the ring ; should he fail in
doing so he is out, and the next player takes his place.
If successful he judges with his eye the distance the
cat is driven from the centre of the ring, and calls for
a number to be scored to his side, if the number named
be found to exceed the same number of lengths of the
stick he is out ; if on the contrary, it does not, he
obtains his call.
Another game is to make six or eight holes in a

circular direction, and at equal distances from each
other ; at every hole the players take their stations,
with their sticks; one on the other side, tosses the cat
to the nearest bat-man, and every time the bat is
struck the players must change their positions, and

run once from one hole to another. If the cat is sent
a great distance, they continue to run in the same
order claiming a score towards their game every time
they change from one hole to another. If the cat is
stopped and thrown between any two of the players,

and it crosses him after he has left one hole and be-
fore he reaches the next he is out.
POP-GUN.
Select a straight piece of an old branch of the

elder-tree ; cut it about six or eight inches long. The
pith in the inside is then forced out with an iron ram-
rod, or one made of hard wood turned or cut to this
shape.
The Pellets are made with moistened tow or brown

paper when the pellet is prepared it should be laid
;
over the mouth of the gun in sufficient quantity to

require squeezing or plugging in. The first pellet must
be driven through the gun to its other end, and the
second again driven in a similar manner. When
forced through the gun, the air between the pellets
being incompressible beyond a certain point, forces
out the lower pellet with a loud pop, from which the
name of pop-gun is taken.
SLING.
This, which is a mere toy in modern days, was

in ancient times a formidable
weapon of war ; and as late as
the battle of Hastings, was used
in the English army. It is ex-
tremely simple in its construc-
tion, and even now, by dexterous
and expert throwing, its results
are astonishing.
It is made of a leathern
thong, broadest in the middle,
and tapering off gradually to-
wards the ends, sometimes a
small hole is cut in the centre to
fix the stone upon. A piece of strong string, or small
cord, is fastened through a hole at
each end, one of which has a loop
at the end, which is put on to the
middle finger of the right hand,
and the extremity of the other string is held between
SLING. STILTS. 99
the fore-finger and thumb ; it is then whirled round

and round until it has gained sufficient impetus, and
suddenly letting go the string held between the finger
and thumb, the stone is shot forth with great velocity.
STILTS.
This is a favourite out-door amusement among

boys at the present time. To a casual observer it ap-
pears rather a dangerous sort of sport, but it is not
so ; with a little practice it is extremely easy. Many
of the shepherds in the desert of Landes, in the south
of France, use them with perfect freedom and great
rapidity; constant habit enables them to preserve their
100
balance so well that they run, jump, stoop, and dance

with the greatest ease and security. They are by
their stilts enabled to see their flocks at a much greater
distance, over a perfectly flat country, their feet being
perfectly protected from the water during the winter,
and the heated sand in summer. In addition to the
stilts, they use a long staff, which they carry in their
hands this guards them against an accidental trip,

;
and forms a third leg when they require to rest.

—
To make stilts. Procure two poles, about six or
seven feet long, and nail on a strap of leather, about
one-third from the bottom of each into these Fig. i.
;
the feet -are placed, the poles being kept in a

proper position by the hands, and moved for-
ward by the action of the legs. A wooden

step, however, is better, and it gives greater
Fig. 2. firmness to the tread ; it is nailed or

screwed to the poles. But the best of
all are those that do not reach the hands, but
are secured to the leg just below the knee
by a same as
strap, the foot-step being the
fig. 2. With \hQ addition of a long staff any
boy could soon manage to walk in safety upon
them.
ANGLING.
Kods, Lines, Floats, Hooks, and Baits.
There is no recreation more agreeable and de-

lightful than angling. It is as much enjoyed by the
chubby rustic child, with his pin hook and rod of hazel,
in the quiet shady pool, as it is by the wealthy of the
land in their most favourite preserves. There is a
healthful exercise in its pursuit both for body and
mind ; and the impressions left on the memories of
those who have " paidled in the burn/' and fished in
cool streams and meandering rills in their early days,
must always be remembered with feelings of extreme
gratification. Angling is almost an instinct with most
boys, particularly those brought up in the country,
and as every boy may be an angler if he pleases, it
will be useful for him to know how he may make his
own fishing tackle.
Bods. —These are made to great perfection, and may
be had of every variety from the professional makers,
but as they are generally expensive for a boy, with a
little trouble and skill, he will Tbe able to make one

that will answer his purpose as well as the most costly.
For the very young angler, a hazel stick will make a
good rod for fishing for small fish, such as sticklebacks,
minnows, &c. Having selected as straight a one
as possible, a common knife is all that is required to
polish it into shape.
The nextbest rod that a boy may make for him-
self is —
formed of two pieces the bottom of ash, and
the top of lance-wood these, if properly tapered, and
;
not too heavy, will be found to have an equal and

regular spring and the two pieces can be firmly bound
;
together, by splicing the two ends and binding them

together tightly with waxed silk or small string.
The best rods, however, are made of bamboo cane

with tops of various lengths : twelve feet will be
found a convenient length, but they are sometimes
made to fourteen and even sixteen feet long. The
great point is to have a rod as free as possible from
imperfections, and tapering gradually from the but-
end to the top. They may be fitted as walking-sticks,
or made to pack in canvass bags.

ANGLING. 103
Lines are sometimes made of twisted silk, or silk
and hair. Horse-hair is the best material ; those

made of silk and hair retain the water. Brown, grey,
and white are the best colours. Three yards will be
found the most useful length for a young angler.
In fly-fishing, the bottom or casting line which is
fixed to the line upon the reel, should be nearly the

length of the rod ; it should be made of gut, fine at
the bottom or " dropper," and strong at the top.
The length of the line required to throw, varies of
course with the river, and the spot you wish to throw
to, but about twice the length of the rod will generally
be found sufficient.
Floats, —For small fish and slow waters quill floats

are the best ; they are made of various sizes, the ends
being painted blue or red.
Plugged Floats are made with a goosa-quill, and

a wooden plug at the bottom.
Tip-capped Float is one of the best that can be
used ; it is made of quills
or reeds for the middle, and
ivory or tortoise-shell for the top and bottom—narrow
at the ends, and gradually increasing in circumfer-
ence to the middle,
Cork Float.—-Take a sound cork, and bore it
through the middle with a, red-hot iron, put in a quill

to fit it, and cut it to the

shape of a pear ;
grind it
smooth with pumice-stone, and paint or colour it in
whatever way you please.

Shotting the Line. — These are to make the float
partially sink in the water ;
place them all together,
within three inches of the bottom of the loop of the
the loop of the hair to which, the hook is tied,
line, fix
and place two very small shots, about two inches from
the hook, which will cause the bait to swim steadily,
and the others above the first loop.
Reel. — This is a necessary addition, to large rods

particularly ; it enables you to
play your fish with more ease
and certainty, and to reach
places which, without its assist-
ance, you could not attempt.
They may be had of various constructions at the
tackle-shops.
Hooks. — There are four kinds of hooks : —the
Sneckbend, the Limerick, the Kendal, and the Kirby.
There is a great variety of opinion as to the relative
merits of each among the best anglers, some prefer-
ring one to the exclusion of the others. The Kirby,
however, is one that we can recommend ; its shape is
well adapted for hooking and holding the fish. The

—
ANGLING. 105
hooks are numbered from the largest (No. 1) to the

smallest (13), according to size. The hooks most
suitable for the following fish are
Minnow . . 13 Flounders .6
Shiner 13 Perch . 4
Sunfish ... 13 Eels . 4
Loach 13 Carp 3
Gudgeon . .12 Trout . 3
Roach 10 Blackfish 4
In tying on hooks, you must use strong but fine

silk ; it must be as near the colour of your bait as
possible. Wax the silk well with shoemaker's wr ax,
and then wrap it three or four times round the body
—
of the hook the gut or hair being on the inside of
—
the hook and then wrap the silk tightly round it,
about three parts down the hook.
Plumbing the Depth. —Much of the success of the
angler in bottom-fishing,depends upon his
knowing the proper depth. This is done by
a plummet they are of two kinds. The fold-
;
ing plummet will be found the most conve-

nient ; it is made of a slip of sheet-lead folded
up. To fix it on the line, unfold it about two inches,
pass the hook over the side, and then fold the plum-
met up again. When the plumb-lead touches the
bottom, and the top of the float is even with the sur-
face of the water, you will have the correct depth.
—
Baits. —Worms are the most natural baits, and

nearly every fish will take them. If the river is at
all muddy it is the best bait that can be used. The
principal are
Lob-worm. Flag-worms.
Brandling. Grasshoppers.
Meadow-worm. Wasp-grub.
Tag-tail. Beetles.
Ash-grub. Paste Baits.
Cow-dung Bait. Salmon Spawn.
Caterpillar. White Bread-paste.
Cabbage-worms. Cheese-paste.
Maggots. Wheat-paste.
Cad Bait. Ground Bait.
During spring and autumn these may be used any

time of the day, but in the summer only early in the
morning or late in the evening.
To scour and preserve Worms. —Procure a quan-
tity of fresh moss, wash out all the earth, and squeeze
it, but not too dry; press it tightly down in a jar, and
throw the worms upon it. Gentils should be thrown
into a mixture of damp sand and bran, to clean them;
and they will be ready for use in two days.
ANGLING. 107
FLY-FISHING.
To be an expert fly-fisher is generally the ambition

of the most enthusiastic angler ; it requires much more
neatness and skill than for bottom-fishing, and it is
assuredly more gratifying in its results. The learner,

if possible, should go out with some experienced angler,
watch his movements closely, and imitate them as
well as he can. He should begin with the line only,
not putting on any flies, trying a short line first, and
lengthening it gradually ; the rod should be carried
gently back, without effort, and thrown forward again
when the line has reached its full extent behind him ;
must be taken in doing this or the fly will

great care
be whipped off when he comes to use one. After at-
taining tolerable proficiency in this, the learner may
then put on one fly, and fish for a while with that,
adopting two or three when he is able to use them pro-
perly. The great art is to drop the fly lightly, that
it may resemble a natural fly settling upon the water.
Suffer the line to float gently down the stream, at the
same time dragging it towards you to your left hand.
The best time for angling with the fly, is when
there is a gentle breeze upon the water ; south and
108
west winds are to be preferred. The best time of day

is morning or evening. You must be careful not to
go near the bank, for fish are very quick of sight. If
you see a rise, throw your fly about half a yard above,
and let it fall with the stream, watching it narrowly,
and strike the moment the fish rises ; when you have
hooked one, play him carefully, keeping up his head
and running him down the stream, at the same time
drawing him towards you ; a smaller fly is required
when the water is smooth.
The materials required to make Artificial Flies.
—Feathers of the grouse, snipe, duck, bittern, golden
plover, jay, starling,and peacock. Furs of all colours,
from the skins of moles and water-rats
squirrels, ;
camel's hair, hare's ear, and fur from the neck of the
marten mohairs of different shades, and camlets
;
;
black horse-hair, hog's down, dyed various colours ;
gold and silver twist, and sewing silk of all colours

and thicknesses a pair of fine-pointed scissors, and
;
small pliers.
Flies.
In making your fly, imitate as much as possible

the natural fly you wish to represent. Having a hook
ANGLING. 109
the right size, a feather of the proper colour, stripped

elown on each side, leaving just as much as will do for
the wings at the fine end ; a piece of fine gut, free
from imperfections, and properly tested as to its
strength dubbing, or hackle, and a piece of fine

;
silk, waxed with shoemaker's wax then, hold-

well ;
ing the hook in the left hand, wrap the silk round
the bare hook two or three times, and put the finest
end of the gut on the under side of the hook. If for a
hackle-fly, begin at the bend and work up to the
head ; after turning three or four times round the
hook and gut, fasten in the hackle and continue the
winding of the silk until it reaches the end of the
hook, then turn it back two or three times to form
the head; the dubbing must now be twisted round the
silk, and wrapped upon the hook for nearly half the
proposed length of the body; fasten it there by a single
loop, that both hands may be
manage the
at liberty to
hackle when sufficient feathers are wound upon the
;
hook, the* remainder should be held under the thumb

of the left hand, and the entangled fibres picked out
with a needle. The silk and dubbing must now be
twisted over the end of the hackle until the body of
the fly is of the length required. If gold or silver
twist is used, the twist should be fastened to the lower
end of the body before the dubbing is applied to the
110
silk. To make a winged fly the same plan is adopted in

tying on the hook ; then take the feather which is to
form the wings and place it even on the upper side of
the shank, with the roots pointing towards the bend
of the hook : fasten the feather by winding the silk
over it, and cut the loose ends close with a pair of
scissors, divide the wings as equally as possible with
a needle, passing the silk two or three times between
them to make them stand in a proper position ; carry
the silk down the shank of the hook the proposed
length of the body and fasten it, then apply the
dubbing to the silk and twist it towards the wings ;
fasten in the hackle for the legs, and wind it neatly

under the wings so as to hide the ends of the cut
fibres the silk must be fastened above the wings.
;
The
fly at the end of the line is called a stretcher,
and the next the dropper. The first dropper should

be about a yard from the stretcher, and the second
Fig. 1. , ,
t
about three quarters of a yard
from the first; made*on pieces
of gut four inches long, to de-
tach at pleasure.
Green or May-fly (fig. 1).
— The wings are made of the

light feather of a grey drake,
dyed yellow ; the body of amber-coloured mohair, rib-
ANGLING. Ill
bed with green silk ; the head of peacock's harl ; and

the tail of three long hairs from a sable muff. This
is one of the most killing flies for trout ; it generally
rises about the end of May, and continues for about
three weeks; it is found in great plenty in sandy, gra-
velly rivulets.
Great White Moth (fig. 2). — The wings are made of
a feather from the wing of a Fig 2 . .
white owl ; the body of white

cotton and a white cock's
;
hackle wrapped round the

body. This is a night fly,
and should be used in a dark,

gloomy night.
Bee-fly (fig. 3). —This is an excellent chub-fly, and
is in use during the summer months.
The wings are made from the feathers
of a blue pigeon's wing ; the body of
chenil of various colo- .rs, arranged in
stripes in the following order : —black,
white, light yellow, white, Fig. 4
black and white ; the legs of

a black hackle; and the body
dressed thick.
Stone-fly (fig. 4).— The
wings are made of a dusky
.
112 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEK.
blue cock's hackle, or a mottled feather from a hen-

pheasant; the body of dark brown, and yellow camlet,
mixed and a grizzled hackle for the legs the wings
; ;
must lie flat. It appears about the middle of April,

and may be used at any time of the day.
—
Grey Drake (fig. 5). The wings are made of
Fig. 5. a dark grey feather of the
mallard ; the body of white
ostrich's harl, striped with
dark silk ; the head of pea-
cock's harl ; and the tail of
three hairs from a sable muff. It appears about the
same time as the green drake, or a little earlier. It
kills best from three till dusk.
—
Bed Palmer (fig. 6). The body of this is made
of dark red mohair, ribbed with gold Fig. 6.
twist, and wrapped with a red cock's

hackle. Palmers are all good killing
baits, and may be used all the fishing
season.
We give these specimens for the young angler to
practice upon. When he has accomplished the art of
fly-making, he will prefer making them after his own
fashion, and it is always best to make the fly you wish
to imitate — one that you know frequents the locality
ANGLING. 113
you propose fishing in. The following flies are also

favourites with the best anglers :-
Black Gnat. Willow Fly.

Hare's Ear. Haze Fly.
Whirling Dun. Fern Fly.
Cock Tail. Black Palmer.
Peacock Palmer. Black Palmer ribbed with
Black Silver Palmer. gold.
Bed Ant. Orl Fly.
Governor. Blue Gnat.
Gold Spinner. Little Iron Blue.
Oak Fly. Gravel or Spider Fly.
Yellow Sally. Granham or Green Tail.
March Brown. Whirling Blue.
Scapp or Landing Net, — The ring of this can be
made of a common cane, to which is fastened a small

net, with a long pole or straight piece of wood for the
handle. A ring made of iron or stout wire is better,
when it can be procured.
8
114: THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
BABBIT HUTCHES.
Babbits have always been great favourites with

boys,and are not only a pleasant, but often may
be made a profitable amusement. The domestic rab-
bits are of various colours. A variety of the hare-
colour, that has much bone, long body, long ears, and
large eyes, much resembling the hare, which they
nearly equal in size, is in flesh considered superior to
the common rabbit.
When choosing young ones to rear for does, take
those that have the smallest litter. When six weeks
old they may be removed from the doe, and placed in
hutches two and two, until they are four months old,
and after that time they must be kept separate. Does

with long heads and ears are the best, and give the
most milk. There are many varieties of fancy rabbits,
but the lop-eared is the most popular; these also have
many varieties, such as the up-eared, the forward or
horn-lop, the oar-lop, and the real lop. Our young
readers must please themselves as to the kind of rab-
RABBIT HUTCHES. 115
bits they prefer to rear; our object is rather to instruct

how to make houses for them, which are called
Hutches. —The most easily constructed can be made
out of an old tea or egg-chest; one-third being divided

by a partition for a sleeping-place —a hole being cut
in it sufficiently large for the rabbit to pass through.
A sliding door must be made in the partition, to con-
fine the rabbits during the time of cleaning. Stout
wires must be driven into the top and bottom of the
hutch for the front, about an inch apart, and the door
put on with two leather hinges, and fastened with a
latch or buckle.
More finished hutches may be constructed for
fancy rabbits on the same plan, with the addition of
a drawer for the food ; this should be tinned round
the edges ; also the circular hole in the partition, as
well as every other part of the inside of the hutch,
which the rabbits can bite with their teeth. The
HQ THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
taken off
bottom should be quite smooth, with a
slip
set a backwards
the lower part, and the hutch
little
for the water to run off.
The Buck's Hutch is generally made of quite a
different shape to that of the

doe's or breeding hutches,
but there does not appear any good reason for its
being so. The form is
something of the shape of

a Dutch oven, with very
little room for exercise.
One made on the same

plan as already described
little stronger, should
for does, with the wires a
separate apartment
be more generally used, as the
RABBIT HUTCHES. 117
enables the rabbit to exercise himself when he pleases.

The buck must always be kept in an apartment of his
own.
Hutches may be set one upon another, or in rows,
as most convenient ; they should never be placed upon
the ground, but elevated upon wooden stools or bench-
es ; and not put close to the wall, but sufficient room
left for the dung to pass off from the apertures made
in the back of the floor. They should be kept in a
dry place, exposure to humidity being fatal to rabbits.
Fresh air and thorough draught are necessary.
BIED TEAPS.
Birds of all kinds are great favourites both with
young and old. The splendour of their colours, the
melody of their sweet voices, and the wonderful art
with which they construct their nests, inspire a love
and admiration to the great Creator of all. Without
going into the natural history of the various singing-
birds, we shall confine ourselves to the means of catch-
ing them. There are different modes ; the most com-
mon for boys is the
Brick Trap. — It is made of four bricks —two being

placed lengthways upon their narrow ends, and the
third in like manner across one
end ; the fourth being placed be-
tween the two sides, so as to form
a cover or lid. A forked twig is
placed horizontally, and rests upon

the edge of the front brick —the lid or top brick
beng supported by a short piece of wood
resting upon the narrow end of the fork.
The weight of the bird alighting on the ,
forked branch destroys the equilibrium,

and the brick and forms a close box in which
falls,
the bird is a prisoner. A few bread crumbs or oats

should be first put in as a bait at the bottom of the
trap.
Sieve Trap. —This is another simple and readily-
constructed trap. A large sieve
is propped up at an angle with a
stick, to which is attached a
^ piece of string at the middle.

Having strewn your bait under
the sieve, take the end of the string, and conceal
yourself behind a tree or wall, and when you observe
the bird well under the sieve, quickly jerk the line,
removing the stick, which causes the trap to fall over

the bird.
BIRD TRAPS. 119
The Springle. — This is an excellent trap, but more

complicated to make. Take a hazel rod, four feet
long, thick at one end, and tapering towards the other,
and fix a piece of string, about fourteen inches in
length, to the small end ; it must be shaved off a,
little on one end to fit the notch in the spreader.

The Spreader is a small bent switch about a foot
and a half in length; make a notch at the thick-
est end to receive the small one, and fasten it
within an inch of the thicker end.
The Catch is a small piece of wood half an inch
long, about half as broad, and a quarter as thick.
The Noose is a slip-knot of stout horse-hair, \
fastened to the end of the string below the catch.
fjl
The Stump is made of a short stake of
feijtfwood a few inches in length fixed firmly into
55
j*
the ground
'
the head remaining about an

;
inch above the surface.

The Bender is also a pliant switch of hazel, the
ends of which are fixed in the
ground, forming an arch. -^^^^^^^
To set the Springle. The" —
stump must be driven firmly into the ground, and
the bow of the spreader over it, the bight being in
contact with it. Fix the two ends of the bender
securely into the ground, about the length of the
former from the stump. The thick end of the springer

is next fixed in the ground a short distance from the
bender, and the
small end bent
down till you can
put one end of the
catch upwards, and
on the outside of the bender. The spreader being
raised about an inch from the ground, and the smaller
end of the catch being placed in the notch, to support
it. The horse-hair slip-knot is next arranged around
it, and the trap is complete.
A little
seed is scattered inside and around the
trap,and the bird being attracted to it perches upon
the spreader, which falls with its weight, and the
catch being set at liberty flies up, and the bird is
caught in the noose care, however, must be taken to
;
remain at a short distance to take your bird quickly,

or in his efforts to escape he might be strangled, or
flutter himself to death.
Liming a Tivig. — One of the most simple modes
of catching birds is with bird-lime ; it may be pur-
chased in towns of the bird-fanciers, oilmen, or drug-
gists. A branch of a tree is first taken and trimmed
of the leaves, and then coated all over with the bird-
lime ; a cage in which are your call-birds is then fixed
BIRD TRAPS. 121
in a low hedge, and the smeared bough is placed over

it. The wild birds being decoyed to the twigs, you
conceal yourself somewhere near, and when the birds
alight on the tree they stick fast, and you must lose
no time in securing them.
The London some
bird-catchers use a large net —
as much and about two wide ;
as twelve yards long,
they are spread upon the ground, and decoy-birds
placed in small cages, at short distances from the net.
The wild birds being attracted to the spot, the bird-
catcher watches his opportunity, and closes them in
by a sudden pull of the strings which he holds in his
hands at some distance from the trap.
When birds are taken, they should be first placed
in a dark place, or the cage covered over for a time,
or they may seriously injure themselves by fluttering
about in the cage. The best time for catching birds
is early in the morning, soon after daylight ; for after
that time the birds are too busy looking after their
food to be easily attracted by your decoys.
BATTLEDOKE AND SHUTTLECOCK.

^rx /N
This an old and favourite sport it is also a

is ;
very healthy pastime. In the time of James I., it

was a fashionable game amongst grown-up persons.
The Chinese play at it with their feet, hands, and
elbows, and keep the cocks up in a most extraordi-
nary manner. The practice of the game in this
country is to keep the shuttlecock in the air by strik-
ing it from one person to another.
Battledores, as the name implies, were formerly
all made of wood they may be easily cut out of a piece
;
BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLECOCK. 123
of flat board, not thicker than a quarter of an inch

the spades about five inches in length, and the same
in breadth ; the handles about six or seven inches
long ; and they will serve
every purpose for young be- ^
ginners to practise upon.
The best kind is made as follows : procure a slip of
lance-wood, about sixteen inches long, an inch and a
half broad, and a quarter of an inch thick, the edges
of the outside slightly rounded ; to make it bend to
to the shape of the spade of the battledore, cut a
slight nick, about an inch apart, all along the inside,
1 1 I 1 I I I I 1 i 1 I
i
1 ! 1 M I 1 TTTZ 3
and not quite half way through the wood ; boil or
steam it with hot water, and it will curve to the shape,
the two ends being beveled off to fit to the handle this ;
must be previously prepared quite round,

except at the end to which the spade is at-
tached, which must be quite square at the
sides, and tapering a little at the extreme
The spade end must then be glued to
end.
the two sides of the handle, and afterwards firmly
bound round the join with fine waxed string it must ;
* ^
then be allowed to dry ; in the meantime prepare

—
your covering of parchment, cut round to the shape of
the spade, with a margin large enough to turn over the

wood-work. The ends to turn over nicely, must be
cut out in this form ; the skin must then
be soaked in water, the damp taken off,
and the ends glued round the wood-

work, and when dry you will have a
superior battledore. The handle may
be finished by binding a strip of coloured
off
leather or velvet all round it.

—
To make a Shuttlecock. Cut a piece of \
sound cork to this shape, in it fix a

short brass-headed nail at the lower
end. Procure five grey goose feathers,
about four and a half inches long, not too
full, and all the same size ; fix the ends of
these into the top of the cork in a circle
each one standing in an oblique direction to
the other, and your shuttlecojQk \yith the
battledore will be ready for play.
ARROW PARACHUTE.
This is an admirable contrivance to raise the para-
chute up in the air. We have already described the
most common way of making them.
There is, however, a difficulty at all
times in getting them to ascend but ;
by the means hereafter detailed, that

obstacle is entirely removed.
To make one ? you must procure a
piece of thin, coloured paper, and cut
out the form of the parachute (see
page 12) ; then taking or making an

arrow, rather long in the shaft (see
page 93), cut out a small hole at the
top of the paper, insert it over the end of the
arrow, and fix it there with a little gum or paste,
about an inch from the top ; attach pieces of
thread to theêxtreme corners of the paper, and
tiethem together about half way up the shaft of
)
the arrow, andwhen completed it will resemble
a parasol or umbrella closed. When shot up
with a common bow, it will ascend a great height,
and in coming down again it will open out, and
sail away to a great distance.
TBAP, BAT, AND BALL.
This an old English game. As early as the

is also
fourteenth century we have traces of its existence.
The old method of playing was much the same as it
is in the present time, only the trap was a little ele-
vated, and not placed on the ground as it
now is, commonly in the shape of a shoe.

The trigger being struck at the extreme
end forces upwards the spoon containing
the ball, the motion describing a small arc or curved
line ; when free from the spoon the ball rises in a
right line, and is projected forward in the same direc-
tion it was taking when set free.
The game is played in various ways. The usual
plan is to choose sides, tossing up for the innings,
boundaries being placed at a given distance .from the

trap ; the batsman must send his ball over the line,
127
or he is out ; he is also out if he strikes the ball into

the air, and it is caught by an opposite player, or if
it is bowled back and hits the trap ; or if he strikes at

the ball twice without hitting it ; he is out, and
another player takes his place. In many parts there
is a practice, when the bowler has sent in the ball, for
the striker to guess the number of bats' lengths it is
from the trap, if he guess correctly he reckons that
number towards his game, but if more than there
really are, he loses his innings.
In playing, the trigger must not be struck too
forcibly, but just sufficient to rise the ball about a
foot, or a little more, above the trap ;
you may catch
it once or twice in your hand before you call play,
which you to judge better where to take
will enable
your stand, and strike the ball with the utmost force,
and observe in which direction you should send it
with the least chance of its being caught. Take plenty
of time before you attempt to hit the ball ;
young
players are apt to be in too great a hurry. Ycu will
have sufficient time to take a good aim, and strike the
ball in the act of falling.
To make a Trap, Bat and Ball. —
The trap must
first be cut out of a soft piece of wood about seven
or eight inches in length, in the shape and in the
proportion of an ordinary shoe ; hollow out the heel
128 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE.
about half way down, and one-third at the toe,
through which drill a small

hole ; in the hollow is fixed
the spoon end of the trigger,
which holds the ball it is —
secured by an iron or wooden
pin, which acts as a fulcrum. The trigger, or tongue,
is cut out of a piece of
wood of this shape, a hole
being drilled through the thick part, and the spoon
end slightly curved out to hold the ball.
The Ball. The directions given at page 130 will
do for the purpose.
—
The Bat. The spoon- shaped is the one now most
used by players ; it is made out of a piece of flat wood
about an inch thick, and in the
form of the cut, but they vary ac-
cording to taste or fashion.
BALLS.
Games played with, balls are of great antiquity.

The Greeks used four kinds, viz. the little ball, the
:
empty ball, and the leathern ball. The

great ball, the
empty ball was blown up with air, something like the
foot-ball of the present time and the leathern ball
;
was stuffed with sand or bran, and suspended from

the ceiling. The Eomans, also, had four kinds of
balls, and it is stated that Augustus Caasar, particu-
larly, was greatly delighted with the amusement.
Hand 'Ball or Fives. This was formerly a very

popular pastime in England in modern times it has
;
been partially superseded by the use of the racket.

For boys, the hand-ball has all the advantages of ex-
9
ercise, and does not require so high a wall or regular

ground as for racket. The game is played with the
palm of the hand ; two or more take sides, the best
players being nearest the wall ; a chalked line being
previously drawn upon it, about two feet from the
ground, and the great art is just to send the ball over
the line, and keep it within the boundaries.
To make a Hand-Ball. Take a piece of India-
rubber, or cork, about the size of a large marble, and
wind round it worsted till you have worked it quite
round, and about the size of an ordinary orange fix ;
the end by lacing it under the layers, and without

making a knot. For an ordinary game the ball will
then do, but if you wish to preserve it, or make a
more finished work of it, you must cover it with soft
leather, and make all as tight as possible that it may
rebound easier.
Backet Balls may

be made in the same way. It is
stated that this game was introduced into England
during the reign of Henry III., by persons of rank
and family, who erected what are called tennis courts,
for the performance of the exercise.
Foot-Ball. Formerly this game was the popular
holiday amusement. It is amost exciting sport, the
best place for it being a large field or common. Any
number may play at it. When a match is made, each
BALLS. 131
party takes a side, till equally divided in numbers ;
two sticks being driven into the ground for the goal,
a few feet apart. The skill of the players is best dis-
played by attacking and defending the goals. Shins
occasionally suffer, and the exercise is sometimes ex-
ceedingly violent.
To make a Foot-Ball. Take a large bladder, steep
it in water, blow it out by the aid of a piece of pipe
and tie it tightly round the neck with string ; being
satisfied that it is perfectly air-tight, you must untie
the string and empty the bladder again. You must
then proceed to place it in a leathern
case, which ought also to be soaked in
water, to make it work more easily
into form. Insert the lower end of the
bladder into the hole in the leather,
fill it again with air, and tie the neck-
string, and it will then be more like
two balls than one. You next take a firm hold of
the outer portion of the bladder, and
twist it round, gradually driving all the
air into the lower part in the leathern
case, and the shape will be further de-
veloped. The must then
outside portion
be forced gently into the case, and a
tongue of leather placed over the ori-
fice ; the whole must be laced together, and your ball

will be ready for use.
India-rubber, which appears to be coming into use
for almost everything, is now much used for making
all kinds of balls. „
THE BOOMERANG.
Thisan instrument lately introduced into this
is
country from Australia. It is said to be used by the

natives with great skill and dexterity ; so much so as
to kill a man behind a tree. If skilfully thrown, it
may be made to go in any direction, and after striking

the desired object it will return to the thrower. It
should be held horizontally when thrown, and cast by
bringing the arm backwards.
It is made of a curved piece of wood, flat on one
side, and a little rounded
on the other. It is so
and its results so
simple,
extraordinary, that it has already become very popu-
lar in this country. .
GOLFING.
In Scotland this game is much practised at the
present time. It is much the same as a rustic game
of the Komans, and is played with a long club, and a
small ball made of leather and stuffed with feathers.
The game is played with two or more persons- —there
being an equal number on each side ; only two balls
are used, one belonging to each party, and each one
striking in turn ; if the last striker does not send the
ball as far as his opponent, the next one of the same
party must then strike one, and so on, count-
ing one, two, or three, as the case may be.
The object is, to drive the balls into certain
holes in the ground, and the party that does so I
the soonest, or with the fewest number of \

strokes, wins the game.
The Golf Club is generally made of some
tough wood, such as beech, and as it turns
upwards is planed off to adapt itself to the
handle, to which it is partly glued and tightly (
corded down. They vary in length from three to

13i THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
four feet, according to the height and length of arm

of the player. The handle is generally bound with
list, velvet, or cord ; and in addition to the face of the
club it is sometimes further secured by a piece of
bone or ivory, about an inch thick. Clubs, however,
vary according to circumstances, and the nature of
the ground.
The Golf Ball is made of stout leather, being first
well soaked in hot water, and sewed together, and

then turned inside out, leaving a small opening by
which it is stuffed full with feathers. When the
leather dries it contracts into a hard ball which should
not be larger than an egg, but not circular as an or-
dinary ball.
HOCKEY, OE CLUB.
This is a favourite game in the north of England.
Two or more parties form sides, and the object is to
drive the ball (a wooden one) over the bounds, which
are generally marked out at about forty or fifty
HOCKEY. 135
yards. The best place for it to be played is in a by

road, not too wide, with a hedge or palings on each
side ; and the party that first sends the ball over the
bounds, wins the game ; either party sending it over
the side bounds, loses the game. The clubs are formed
according to the taste and fancy of the
player. Some boys prefer one with a stout,
knobby handle, and others, again, like those
with more curve at the stroke; but when one
is got to answer the purpose, it is valuable
to the owner. The best way is to select

one from some wood or hedge, and have
as little cutting or making about it as.
possible.
THE SUCKEE.
This is a very simple toy, and easily made. Take
a piece of leather, and cut it
perfectly round, about the

size of the palm of your hand;
make a small hole through
the centre, just large enough
to insert within it a piece of
fine cord, about four or five
feet in length ; at the end in-

side the sucker tie a knot,
and to the other end tie a
piece of wood five inches long,
for the handle. When completed, soak the leather
forsome time in water till it is sufficiently pliable,
and take a smooth stone and press down the leather
upon it with your foot ; underneath the sucker a
vacuum is formed, and by lifting the string, the ex-
ternal air pressing on all sides of your sucker, you will
be able to carry a considerable weight.
Irarikal
f ugte +
Many of the best puzzles have* no doubt been in-

vented by captives, to wile away the time of a long
and dreary imprisonment ; thus does the misery of a
few frequently conduce to the amusement of many.
A good puzzle requires considerable thought, calcula-
tion, patience, and management. It is sometimes
highly amusing to watch the progress of any one at-
tempting to perform a puzzle for the first time ; to see
him when he thinks he is doing it so
elated with hope
when you know he is farther off the desired
cleverly,
end than when he actually began. And it is equally
laughable to witness his increasing despair as he finds
himself getting more and more involved, when you are
fully aware, by a single happy turn, how easily he
might terminate his troubles.
The Chinese Cross.
Procure six pieces wood, bone, or metal, made

;
of the same length as No. 6 in the adjoining figure,

and each piece of the
same size as No. 7. It
is required to construct
a cross with six arms,
from these pieces, and
H in such a manner that
2 3 4 5 6 i it shall not be displaced
when thrown upon the floor. The shaded parts of
each figure represent the parts that are cut out of the
wood; and each piece marked a is supposed to be fac-
ing the reader, while the pieces marked b are the
right side of each piece turned over towards the left,
so as to face the reader ; No. 7 represents the end
of each piece of wood, &c, and is given to shew the
dimensions.
To make the Chinese Gross. — Place Nos. 1
together, as in fig. 1 ; hold them together with
your finger and thumb of the left hand hori-
zontally, and with the square hole to the right
—
push No. 3 placed in the same position facing
—
yon (a) in No. 4 through the opening at k,
and slide it to the left at A, so that the profile
of the pieces should be as in fig. 2. Now push No. 4
partially through the space from below upwards, as
seen in fig. 2. Place No; 5 crossways upon the part
PRACTICAL PUZZLES. 139
b, so that the point R is directed upwards to the right
hand side; then push No. 4 quite

through, and it will he in the posi
Fig. 3.
tion shewn by the
dotted lines in fig. 2.
All that now remains

is topush No. 6, which
is the key, through
the opening M, and
the cross is completed as in fig. 3.
The Chinese Puzzle.
This puzzle, being one for the purpose of construct-

ing different figures by arranging
variously shaped pieces of card or
wood in certain ways, requires no
separate explanation. Cut out of
very stiff cardboard — or thin maho-
gany, which is decidedly preferable
—seven pieces, in shape like the annexed figures, and
bearing the same proportion to each other ; one piece
must be made in the shape of fig. 1, one of fig. 2, and
one of fig. 3, and two of each of the other figures.
The combinations of which these figures are suscep-

tible are almost and we subjoin a representa-
infinite,
tion of a few of the most curious. It is to be borne
in mind, that all the pieces of which the puzzle con-

sists must be employed to form each figure.
The Maze or Labyrinth.
This Maze is a correct ground plan of one in the

gardens of the Palace of Hampton Court. No legend-
ary tale is attached to it of which we are aware ; but
its labyrinthine walks occasion much amusement to
the numerous holiday parties who frequent the palace
grounds. The puzzle is to get into the centre, where
seats are placed under two lofty trees, and many are
the disappointments experienced before the end is
attained ; and even then the trouble is not over, it
being quite as difficult to get out as to get in.

The Cardboard Puzzle.
Take a piece of cardboard or leather, of the shape
3 .INCHES and measurement indicated by the dia-

gram cut it in such a manner that you
;
Cn yourself may pass through it, still keep-

Z ing it in one piece.
O
x To cut the Cardboard Puzzle. Double
n
in
the cardboard or leather lengthways
down the middle, and then cut first to the right,
nearly to the end (the narrow way), and then to the
left, and so on to the end of the card ; then open it,
and cut down the middle, except the two ends. The
diagram shows the proper cuttings. By opening the

cardboard or leather, a person may pass through it.
Moving the Knight oyer all the Squares

alternately.
Let Black Queen's Book's square count 1 (as in

tlie and count
above diagram) ; Black King's Book, 8 ;
all the other squares in the same way, from 9 to 64.
Place the Knight upon Black King's Book's square 3,

and move as follows :—23, 40, 55, 61, 51, 57, 42, 25,
10, 4, 14, 24, 39, 56, 62, 52, 58, 41, 26, 9, 3, 13, 7,
22, 32, 47, 64, 54, 60, 50, 33, 18, 1, 11, 5, 15, 21, 6,
16, 31, 48, 63, 53, 59, 49 ?
34, 17, 2, 12, 27, 44, 38,
28, 43, 37, 20, 35, 45, 30, 36, 18, 29, and 46. It may
be well to chalk the figures on the board as a guide,
until the feat is understood.
14:4 THE BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER.
The Accommodating Square.
Take eight squares of

card, and divide four of
them from corner to cor-
ner, so that you willhave
twelve pieces ; form a
square with them when
put together.
The Divided Garden.
A person has a square plot of

ground having a house built upon
it, which he lets out to various ten-
ants ; he was desirous of dividing it
so that each of the

five inmates should
have an equal share of the garden,
and two trees. He contrived it in
this way.
— —
to contain three circles, without cutting into any of

them ; and the result will be as follows :
o o
o
o o o
o o °
The Puzzle of Fourteen.

Cut out fourteen pieces
of paper, card, or wood, of
the same size and shape as
those shewn in the cut, and
then form an oblong with them, as in the following
cut :
148 THE BOY S OWN TOY MAKER.
The Card Square.

Cut out eight pieces
of card or paper of the
shape of a, four of b,
and four of and of

c,
proportionate sizes, and

with them form a square.
a
a
A
I
\ c /
\
a
(JU
X-\
\ b /
a a
V \
Puzzle of the Two Fathers.
Two fathers have each a square

of land. One father divides his so
as to reserve to himself one-fourth
as in the adjoining cut. The other
divides his so as to reserve to him-
self one-fourth in the form of a tri-
angle. They have each four sons,

and each divides the remainder
among his sons in such a way that
each son will share equally with his
"brother, and in a similar shape.
How were they divided ?
The first father divided the land as in fig. 1. The
Fig. 1. Fig. 2.
2 4
3 ~]
4 A
second father divided it as in fig. 2. The different

figures represent the several sons' portions.
The Nuns.
Twenty-four nuns were arranged in a convent by

night by a sister, to count nine each
way, as in the opposite cut. Four of

the party went out to take a walk by
moonlight. How were the remainder
placed in the square, so as still to count
nine each way ? The four who went out returned

bringing with them four friends how were they all
;
placed so as to count nine each way, and thus deceive

the sister as to whether there were 20, 24, 28, or 32
in the square ?
20
The Double-headed Puzzle.
Cut out of a piece of wood the circular form of

fig. 1, and four others like fig. 2 the puzzle is in
;
getting them all into the cross-shaped slit, until they

look like fig. 3. After which, arrange them side by
side in the short arms of the cross, draw out the
centre piece, and the rest will easily follow. The
reverse of the same process will put them back again.
Cutting out a Cross.
Cut out of a single

piece of paper, and a -&
with one cut of the cfb
scissors, a perfect cross,
and all the other forms

of the diagram.
Take
writing
a
paper,
three times as long as
piece of
about
it is
Qa
broad, say six inches by
two. Fold the upper corner down, as fig. 1 ; then
fold the other up-
per corner over
the first, and it
will appear as fig.
2 ;
you next fold
the paper in half
lengthwise, and
it will appear us
fig. 3. Then the
last fold is made lengthwise, also in the middle of the
paper, and it will make fig. 4, which, when cut through
with the scissors in the direction of the dotted line,
will make all the forms mentioned.

Another Cross Puzzle.
Cut out of cardboard three pieces of the shapes

and numbers following, and with them make a cross.
/ 1
en 1
u
& dj
2
The Glass and Coins.
Place a sixpence in the bottom of a glass, and over

the latter put a half-crown. The puzzle is
to remove the small coin from beneath the

larger one without touching either of the
coins or touching or upsetting the glass.
To do this you must blow with consider-
able force down one side of the glass, upon
the edge of the half-crown. The sixpence
will be expelledby the force of the air, and
will fall either upon the upper surface of the half-
crown, or upon the table.
Another Glass Puzzle.
Place a sixpence between two half-crowns, and lay

upon the larger coins a glass. Kemove
the sixpence without displacing either
of the half-crowns or the glass.
To do this a table-cloth is neces-
sary ; for this reason the trick is best
suited to the breakfast or dinner-table.
Having placed the glass and coins as in the above cut,
simply scratch the table-cloth with the nail of the
fore-finger in the direction you wish the sixpence to
move, and it will answer directly.
THE END,
.
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The Boys Own Toy Maker 1860

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/

BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKER:

frartiral illustrate §mh

USEFUL EMPLOYMENT OF LEISURE HOURS.

itlj Jpitmerous @ngrabmgs.

Paper Boat, No. 1 2 Boat with two Lugsails . 64

SHIP . 87 Battledore and Shuttlecock 122

himself might perhaps in time be joined as a helper to

little children are now taught in play and learn with

only illustrate the aim of this book as a teacher

for the play-hours by putting a question Who would :

be the more useful person of two cast on Kobinson

The boyish days of many of the great men who

knowledge cannot ripen enough, even when a long one

instruction when you provide amusement. The boy

the instruction imparted in these pages.

BOY'S OWN TOY-MAKEE.

An endless source of amusement may be obtained

ures; animals, birds, trees, and other objects can be imi-

PAPEE BOAT. No. 1.

Cut a piece of white writing paper, but not of

ger and thumb, in the

it forms fig. 3, taking care to turn over the corners at

4 ; a a being pulled out as before described, taking

PAPER BOAT. No. 2.

Take a piece of writing or cartridge paper the size

to form (fig. 2) ; be- \

The Oars (fig. 4).—Fold Fig, 4.

a piece of paper the length of I \ ,~~,

5), cut out the centre piece,

five times, about half the length of the boat,

When bend from dotted lines to sit-

crew will be complete.

COMIC PAPER MASK.

bottom portion four or five times, and cut it in long

head, and by rolling the eyes, and moving the tongue

1) ; double it to dotted line a, turn the corner b to c,

out to a diamond shape (fig. 2), taking care to fold the

Take a piece of paper about six inches square,

then at each turn fold again

3. Fold the corners again to

the outer dotted li^e

lines. Fold over the corners to form fig. 6, insert this )

in the opposite sides of the box a a, these again being

/ 1 that there is no slit or hole left. Fig. 2 cut :

/ the bottom end equally off all round, take a

bottom of the balloon.

To inflate the balloon, some

cut out to dotted line, pierce a hole through

Kite-flying is a most popular game with all boys.

Take a common sheet of writing paper, double it

as to fly it with; the tail ought to be about fifteen times

will depend upon this.

* If the wind is strong, more weights must be attached to the

together an old newspaper will answer the purpose

as well as anything, unless you wish to colour it after-

continue the string up to the opposite side of the hoop,

16 the^boy's own toy-maker.

it there ; from there continue the string a little more