How to

Make Wine
At Home

by
Mike Carraway
www.How-To-Make-Wine.net

brought to you by:

tarun

In a hurry? Want the

Complete Illustrated Guide to Homemade Wine

Equity Publishing
Birmingham, Alabama

The opinions expressed in this manuscript are solely the opinions of the author and not
the opinions or the thoughts of the publisher. The author represents that he/she has the
sole legal right to the material and to publish the material. If you believe this to be
incorrect, please contact the publisher.

HOW TO MAKE WINE

All rights Reserved
© 2008 Mike Carraway Copyright Equity Publishing Company
Printed in the United States of America

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CONTENTS

1. Forward………………………………………………………1
2. A brief History of Wine……………………………………...2
3. A Special note about Grocery Store Fruit……………………3
4. Patience is a virtue……………………………………………4
5. BEFORE we get started………………………………………5
6. Ok – Let’s gather what we need……………………………...6
7. Cleanliness is Next to Godliness……………………………..6
8. Fermentation Vessels…………………………………………8
9. Let’s Get Started……………………………………………..10
10. The First Stage………………………………………….……11
11. Racking…………………………………………………..…..12
12. The Second Stage…………………………………………….13
13. Clearing and Waiting………………………………………...14
14. Fining if Needed or “Let’s Make One Thing Clear”…………15
15. Stabilizing………………………………………………… …15
16. Bottling……………………………………………………….16

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FORWARD

When I was in high school, me and a friend of mine heard this rumor
that we could take some grape juice,

add some sugar,

throw in some yeast,

put a balloon over the bottle and then wait a month and we would
have – ALCOHOL!

And that is what we were after at that time.

And it worked! We sat down on a Friday afternoon and passed that

jug back and forth and within an hour, we were both acting very
stupid. Ahhh… those were the days.

Unfortunately, I wouldn’t drink that stuff now. Almost 30 years later,

I have come to enjoy GOOD wine. Wine that costs $35 to $60 a
bottle.
You could call me somewhat of a wine connesuier.

About 15 years ago, it came to my attention that it was possible to get

the same kind of flavor and consistency by making wine at home.
From that moment on, I began experimenting.

This book will show anyone how to get a very good start on making
quality wine from home. No need to keep paying huge prices, AND,
you can make all you want…sort of.

The U.S. Government has put a limit on us – 200 Gallons/year.

That’s the law. But – that’s 1000 bottles of wine – about 3 bottles a
day, plenty for you and me.

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 How to Make Wine at Home

There is not much to making wine. Humans have been making wine
for thousands of years. People make wine and DRINK it in the Bible.

It’s not rocket science.

The earliest mention of winemaking is in some Mesopotamian texts –

hieroglyphics – and they detail how to ferment the juice of grapes.
Apparently, we were making it long before written text.

It turns out that when grapes grow, there is actually yeast ON the
outside of the grapes. If all you do is crush the grapes and keep the
juice around 75 degrees, the juice will ferment all by itself.

Of course, the types of yeast found on the outside of grapes are

many and not all of them produce a fine tasting wine. Over the years,
winemakers have developed many different strains and varieties of
yeasts. These yeasts are specifically designed to extract exactly
what we want out of the grape juice or fruit juice.

You could use Baker’s yeast and it would work. Feel free to do so if
you do not have access to a local wine or brew shop. Or, you can go
to an online store and order some EC-1118 winemakers yeast.

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A special note about Sugar and Fruit - - -

Grapes that are harvested at exactly the correct time are brimming
with natural sugar. They are tested electronically while still on the
vine to determine the exact peak time of day when the sugar content
is the highest. These types of grapes never need sugar added – they
already have enough.

Click here for a complete guide on growing your own grapes.

Grapes that you get at the grocery store are harvested unripe so that
they will not spoil during the delivery to your supermarket. It is
difficult, at best, to make a good wine from these store bought
grapes. They were not ripe when they were picked, and the sugar
content was probably very low. If you use grapes from the store, you
will need to check the sugar content with a hydrometer (see
equipment chapter) and you will probably need to add quite a bit of
sugar.

The best thing to do is always use a hydrometer and check the sugar
content yourself.

If you are going to buy Fruit Juices at the store, use natural whole
juices with NO PRESERVATIVES. Preservatives will KILL YEAST –
that’s what they are there for.

A word to the wise – read the label.

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 Chapter 3 – Patience
When I first set out to make my own wine, I discovered one thing very
quickly: Patience is a virtue.

Making GOOD wine takes some time – and by time I mean months –
not days or weeks. Also – patience is required during the fermenting
process, the racking process, the bottling process, and the ageing
process.

Patience, Patience, Patience. Believe me – it will pay off. Go SLOW.

Can you make wine fast and drink it? ABSOLUTELY!

However, no one else but you will drink it. It will not taste good to
anyone else but you (and YOU will usually think it tastes bad, too).
Sorry.

Can you make wine fast and bolster the alcohol content so that it is
18% or more?

ABSOLUTLEY!

But again, YOU will be the only drinker of this wine.

I have included a section in this book on making fast wine, and also
making fast lightning wine. Be my guest. Just remember that no one
except you will see any drinkable value in what you have produced
except you. It just won’t taste good.

If you ever feel like you have to hurry, you are doing something
wrong. You will read over and over that it’s BAD to expose your wine
to AIR. Yes, that’s true.

But we are talking hours and hours – that’s bad, not just the few
minutes it takes to rack the wine from the primary fermentor to the
secondary.

So, don’t worry about letting your wine come into contact
with the air for a few minutes, it’s not going to hurt it.
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When I was first starting out, I had read so many times about how it’s
SO IMPORTANT to keep air away from your wine that I would almost
panic when it was time to move the wine from one vessel to another.
I ended up sloshing the stuff all over the place.

It’s best just to go slow.

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BEFORE WE GET STARTED...

Planning and preparation. There is a lot that can be said about those
two words. Especially when it comes to making wine.

You should PLAN what you are going to make. You should
PREPARE everything in advance. This way, you will not get caught
in the middle of doing something and not have what you need.

You should also PLAN where your work area will be. Sure, you could
do this in your kitchen, but it’s a lot nicer to have a spot staked out
that is your “WINEMAKING” area.

When I first started out I used a

corner of my basement. I set up 2 work tables and a set of shelves.

That’s really all it takes.

I have since progressed and now have a little nicer setup. I have a
nice work desk area and two storage cabinets large enough to hold
my primarys and secondarys.

Nobody bothers my stuff and I know where to find what I need at a

glance. I recommend the same thing for you. Make it EASY.

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GATHER WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Before you ever crush the first grape, process the first peach, or open
the first can of frozen concentrate, get everything you are going to
need. This includes corks, bottles and a corker. It also includes
siphon tubing, chemicals, and primary and secondary fermentation
vessels.

Read and then re-read the recipe to make sure you have everything
before you get started. There’s nothing quite like having your juice in
the primary and realizing that you don’t have any Campden tablets.

Oh, and it’s Sunday afternoon and the wine shop isn’t open. Great.

Plan ahead. Check your list. Make sure everything is together

BEFORE you get started.

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Cleanliness is Next to Godliness

Did you ever wonder how those scientists get bacteria and other little
bugs to grow?

Simple, they put them in a nice warm sugar/water mixture. Just

about all kinds of microscopic bugs love that kind of environment. So
– DON’T give it to them.

We want one kind of microbe to grow – not hundreds. We want our

yeast to grow and that’s all. We are not trying to have a microbe
party and invite everyone.

Remember to clean and sanitize everything you will be working

with…and ON. This means all surfaces in your work area should be
routinely disinfected.

Dirty equipment results in very crappy wine with nice little

unpleasant tastes. You can clean your spoon. But if you put it down
on your workbench and then pick it back up and put it in your wine….
Well, you’re “spreading germs” as momma used to say.

If all of your work surfaces are sterilized, you will be AOK.

The best thing to use is something called B-Bright Sanitizer. It is a

sulfate powder that you mix with hot water. You can just wipe this
mixture on everything and it kills all the microbes.

If you don’t have it or cannot get it, crush up a Campden tablet and
fully dissolve it in a half gallon of hot water. This is a nice sanitizing
substitute.

Before you start, you want to wipe down EVERYTHING you are going
to use with the sanitizing solution. This includes the inside and
outside of your fermentors, as well as all of the equipment you may
use. KILL all the bugs at the beginning. That way, they won’t have a
chance to grow later.

Sulfites are very good at this bug killing thing. Remember, all of the
antibiotics in use today are made from sulfur and sulfites. Hmmm –
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must work.

FERMENTATION VESSELS

You need a fermentation vessel like a milk jug or a sanitized food

grade storage container. The food grade storage container is best
and you can get them free by just asking at a restaurant. I do not
recommend using the ones they use for pickles.

You can use milk jugs, sanitized of course, or you can also use 1
gallon wine jugs. The wine jugs actually work pretty good and it’s
easy to find stoppers to fit in the top of them.

The one gallon milk jungs could cause your wine to have an “off taste”
or a plastic odor. Yuck.

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LET’S GET STARTED!

All you need is some kind of fruit juice (or vegetable or spice or
pepper or whatever!) that has a sugar content high enough to let
yeast feed on it. This is what fermentation is – it’s YEAST eating
SUGAR.

The by products of the yeast consuming the sugar are alcohol and
carbon dioxide.

Remember – sanitize everything before you begin.

The best way to know if you have enough sugar is to follow a good
recipe, or, to measure the Specific Gravity. Usually – a specific
gravity of about 1.1 will do it. (Learn more about specific gravity and
hydrometers in the Complete Illustrated Guide to Homemade Wine .)

If the sugar content is not high enough, you will need to heat some
water on the stove and dissolve sugar in it and then pour it into your
fruit juice. You can use ice to cool it down. Your mixture should taste
sweet but not overpoweringly so.

If the sugar content is too high, or it tastes sickly sweet, add water
and give it a good stirring.

Ad 1 crushed Campden tablet per gallon of juice mixture. Put a towel

or something over the bucket or use a rubber band and put a paper
towel over the top of the jug. We want to let air in and out but not
bugs or little flying insects.

At this point, if you were a little more into advanced winemaking, you
would want to measure the acid content and also add any other
additives like pectin enzyme or nutrient. These are all covered in
detail in The Complete Illustrated Guide to Homemade Wine and the
Home Winemaker's Inner Circle.

Let this mixture, called the “MUST” sit overnight. This lets the sulfur
gas go into solution, kill the microbes, and then come out into the air.
Don’t worry, you won’t even smell it.

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THE FIRST STAGE

Once you have the sugar content right and your must sanitized with
sulfites, then all you need to do is toss in (pitch) the yeast (some
yeasts make very good wine while others, like bakers yeast, do not).

Find out more details on yeast in the Complete Illustrated Guide to

Homemade Wine and the Home Winemaker's Inner Circle. The
temperature of the mixture (“must”) should be between 72 and 78
degrees F and should be kept there.

Within 24 hours, you will have fermentation happening. The mixture

will be bubbling and it will sound like a can of soda that you have
opened. It will be fizzing.

This is called the “Primary Fermentation” or the 1 st Stage

Fermentation. The first 5 to 10 days is really when all the action
takes place. Almost all of the alcohol is created during this time.

After it has been bubbling or fizzing nicely for at least 24 hours, either
stir the must (if it’s in a food container), or give the jug a pretty good
shake.

If you are stirring, remember to SANITIZE whatever you are

going to stir it with BEFORE you put it in the must.

This agitation redistributes the sugar and the yeast and will cause
even more fermentation to take place…which is exactly what we are
looking for.

Let this mixture ferment for at least 8 days with just a paper towel or
rag rubber banded over the opening of your fermentation vessel.

Once 8 days has passed, you will need to put on an airlock of some
sort. An airlock does nothing more than let the carbon dioxide
escape but not let air in. Usually, you can find the materials to make
one of these around the house. ( Complete Illustrated Guide to
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Homemade Wine has a video of how to make a simple airlock from
household items).

Now, if you want to boost the alcohol content, the 5 to 7 day point is
where you would do it. All you have to do is add some concentrated
sugar water to the must. This give the yeast something else to feed
on. Don’t wait until all of the fizzing and bubbling has stopped – just
wait until it starts slowing down.

To make sugar water, just heat a cup of water on the stove and put
sugar in it until it won’t dissolve any more. Cool it down and then add
it to the must.

The next day, you should see renewed vigor in the bubbling
department.

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 RACKING
Sounds painful doesn’t it?

In this hobby and business, instead of saying “siphon the wine in the
primary container into the secondary container”, we say RACK the
wine from the Primary to the Secondary. Why? I’m still researching
that one…

After about 4 days of no visible bubbling, probably on day 10, it’s time
to remove the wine from the Primary and put it in a secondary
container that’s about the same size as the first one.

The reason is that you will have a LOT of DEAD YEAST (called lees)
on the bottom of the Primary vessel and it can give the wine a bad
flavor if it sits on it for days. So the purpose is to get all the wine, and
leave as much of the dead yeast, or lees, as you can in the Primary.

Once you have racked the wine over, you may have lost a little so top
up the jug to near the top with regular tap water.

By the way, if you are using the 5 gallon food container, you have
probably figured out by now that you will have to move that 5 gallons
of wine into another 5 gallon container. If you are making this much
just starting out, you need to get a 5 gallon glass CARBOY. You
can buy them at wineshops or online for about $25 to $40.

Put an airlock of some kind on your secondary and ….. WAIT.

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THE SECOND STAGE

Leave the airlock on for 4 weeks. At the end of 4 weeks, it’s

wine. The longer you let it sit in the secondary, the better the wine is
going to be, up to a point anyway.

The wine sits unexposed to air during this second stage. The little
yeast that is still active is still turning sugar to alcohol. Let it do it’s
thing. This prolonged time also lets all of the smaller solids that can
make a wine cloudy fall to the bottom.

When it’s time, you will have to carefully pour off the wine from the
sediment that has settled at the bottom of your vessel.

If your wine is cloudy, let it sit for another week or so with the airlock
on until it clears. (the Complete Illustrated Guide to Homemade
Wine details several methods of clearing wine).

The Secondary fermentation stage, depending on the type of wine

you are making, can sometimes take 3 months. Mead, a wine made
out of honey, can sometimes take 2 months in the primary and then 6
months in the secondary.

The key is to find a recipe and follow it.

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STABILIZING

Okay, we are done with the primary and the secondary fermentation!

The wine looks clear!

We are ready to bottle it right? WRONG.

This fermentation thing is a microbiological process. Although we

cannot see it, we may still have a small amount of fermentation going
on in the wine.

If we were to just bottle it now, the small amount of carbon dioxide

being produced could cause our bottles to explode. We need to do
something to STOP the fermentation form taking place.

This is called Stabilizing the wine.

The most common stabilizer is called Potassium Sorbate. The

common dosage is ½ teaspoon per gallon. You can get this at a wine
shop – or online.

Potassium Sorbate doesn’t kill the yeast, it just makes it harder for
the yeast to multiply and reproduce. It’s sort of like a contraceptive.

It will not stop the fermentation instantly but over the next few days.

After you add the stabilizer, you will need to wait about 3 days for it to
do it’s work and then you will be ready to BOTTLE YOUR
CREATION!

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BOTTLING YOUR WINE

I just go to local restaurants and ask them to save me cases of

bottles at a time. If you want, there are wineshops that will sell them
to you for pretty cheap – but why buy them if you can get them free?

Soak used wine bottles in hot soapy water until the labels begin to fall
off and then scrub them up nicely so they are sparkly and have no
label glue left on them.

The is part of that PLANNING thing I mentioned earlier. Get ALL of

the bottles you will need ready BEFORE you are ready to bottle the
wine. You will also need corks. Again – online or a wine shop.

Uhhh…. Okay I admit it, I have even used USED corks. But ONLY
after I soaked them in HOT, SULFITE saturated water for about an
hour.

The corks are LARGER than the hole in the top of the wine bottle.

This presents a problem for home brewers. You NEED a corker. This
is the only real toolyou MUST buy. If you cannot get one (if you’re
reading this, you can obviously get one online), you will have to use
something like re-sealable plastic pop bottles to put your wine in.

Makes me shudder just thinking about it….

Sanitize everything, the bottles, the corks, and the siphon tube that
you will use to siphon the wine from the secondary into the bottles.
(There are a few nifty tools that can help you with this process and
they are all covered in the Complete Illustrated Guide to Homemade
Winer and the Winemaker's Inner Circle .)

You will need some way to “pinch” the siphon tube to stop the flow of
wine when the bottle gets nearly full.

Fill each bottle to the bottom of it’s neck. You can fill ALL the bottles
and then cork them all at the same time.

Again, a little air isn’t going to spoil the batch.

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When you are siphoning into the bottles, be careful to splash the wine
around as little as possible. You DO NOT want to aeriate the wine,
just quietly siphon it into the bottles.

Use a corker that you have purchased. The more expensive the
corker, the easier it will be to use. For a long time, I used a simple
hand corker but I was only bottling 30 bottles at a time.

I have graduated to a larger one because I now make 60 to 90 bottles

at a time. The hand corker is just too much work for that many corks.

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WRAPPING IT ALL UP

There are literally hundreds of things you can do to improve the

quality of your wine. There are different additives, different flavors,
fortifiers, etc. In addition, some fruits or wines require chemicals be
added before primary fermentation.

You can find recipes, learn to make champagne, learn to make

brandy and many other things once you get the basics of winemaking
down. Find out more in the Complete Illustrated Guide to
Homemade Wine.

This book is not intended to be an all out, in-depth, encompassing

review of the winemaking process. It is more of a beginner’s
overview and guide. Using the techniques and information contained
in this book will get anyone started making GOOD homemade wine.

I look forward to hearing about your winemaking adventures! Please

watch your email for upcoming issues of the Winemakers Secret
eLetter.

(if you got this eBook without signing up for the eLetter, you can get
signed up for it FREE at www.freewinemakingbook.com )

In the eLetter, you will learn more valuable tips and tricks to making
your wine better and better. In addition, there will be questions and
answers from our subscribers as well as winemaking success stories!

Cheers!

Mike Carraway
Your 21 st Century Winemaking Coach
www.How-To-Make-Wine.net

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BONUS – a Few EXCELLENT Wine RECIPES

Peach Wine
Category Fruit
Yield One Gallon US

Beginning SG/PA 1.1

Ingredients:

2 1/2 lbs. peaches (about 10 peaches)

7 pts. water
Enough sugar to make the SG = 1.100 (about 2 lb)
1 campden tablet, crushed
1 1/2 tsp. acid blend
1 tsp. pectic enzyme powder
1/2 tsp. yeast energizer
1/4 tsp. tannin
1 pkg. wine yeast

Instructions:
1. Wash peaches, quarter, remove stones and any brown patches.
2. Place peach quarters in nylon straining bag and place in primary.
3. Crush peaches, extracting as much juice as possible.
4. Add dry ingredients to primary except yeast.
5. Add hot (tap hot works fine) water and mix thoroughly.
6. Cover and let set for 24 hours.
7. After 24 hours, add wine yeast.
8. Ferment for 3-5 days (SG=1.040).
9. Rack into secondary and attach lock.
10. Rack in 3 weeks and again in 3 months.
11. Clarify, stabilize, bottle and age as expected.

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Blackberry Wine
Category Fruit
Yield One Gallon US

Beginning SG/PA 1.1

Ingredients:

4 lbs. blackberries (fresh or frozen)

4 1/2 cups sugar
1 tsp. yeast nutrient
1 tsp. acid blend
1 tsp. pectic enzymes
1 campden tablet
1 pkg. all-purpose or Bordeaux wine yeast

Instructions:

1. Crush the fruit in the primary and pour in all the additives and the
sugar.
2. Stir well and top up to 1 gallon with hot water.
3. Let sit until cool and the sulphate (Campden) dissipates. (about 24
hours).
4. Add the yeast and start the ferment.
5. Rack clarify and bottle as per normal.

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Strawberry Wine

Date 2006-06-20
Category Fruit
Yield Five Gallons Imperial

Beginning SG/PA 1.095

Ingredients:
4 kg. damson plums (freeze and thaw out to remove pits and improve
juice extraction)
2 kg. strawberries
16 kg. (1 case) palomino grapes
1/2 liter red grape concentrate
15 liters water
1 tbsp. pectic enzyme
2 tsp. nutrient
1 tsp. sulfite crystals
Sugar to SG 1.095
Acid blend 'B' to 3.8 sulphuric
1 pkg. wine yeast (Lalvin D 47 or K1-V1116)

Instructions:

1. Chop fruit and add to crushed grapes.

2. Put into primary fermentor and stir in all ingredients except yeast.
3. Make SG and Acidity adjustments.
4. Cover primary and let sit 24 hrs.
5. Sprinkle yeast and let sit undisturbed on surface for 2 hours.
6. Stir vigorously and cover primary.
7. Stir several times per day until Specific Gravity reaches 1.030 (4 to
5 days).
8. Squeeze juice from ferment and place into glass secondary.
9. Attach airlock.
10. When fermentation is complete (S.G. 1.000 or lower / 15-20 days)
rack off sediment into clean secondary and reattach airlock.
11. Rack every 7-8 weeks and add 0.1 gr/l. sulfite crystals during
aging (6-7 months).
12. Add 1/2 tsp sulfite crystals before bottling.
13. If you desire a sweeter wine, at this point can add 1 1/2 tsp.
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stabilizer and a solution of 30 gr/l. dissolved sugar.

How to Make Your Own Wine

Mike Carraway
2008
Complete Grape Growing Course

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