2

http://www.balloonlife.com/publications/balloon_life/9605/breakfas.htm

Breakfast On The Verandah -

African Style
by Ed Heltshe

------------------------------------------------------------------------

The monkeys took our bananas...

The British took our beer...

African pilot Jim Seton-Rodgers took first place.

Balloon racing in Zimbabwe confirmed for me the south central African

republic’s self proclaimed status as "Africa’s Paradise." Together with
fellow pilots, Susan and Peter Stamats of Cedar Rapids, Iowa in a
Flamboyant Balloons 105 generously provided by the legendary Terry
Adams of Johannesburg South Africa, I had the opportunity to really
experience both the geographical wonders of Zimbabwe and the equally
remarkable hospitality of the local inhabitants.

By rights, nobody was supposed to be obsessing over our goal in the 1995
First Great Zimbabwe Long Jump. Governed by only two rules, "Rule one:
Any person found taking the event seriously will be disqualified. Rule two:
Don’t forget rule one," the objective was to fly as far as possible in three
flights during a 36 hour period.
3

From a field across the street from the Sheraton Hotel in Harare,
Zimbabwe’s capitol city, our first launch got off to a slow start. Unlike the
previous two mornings when we had to tie off to our chase truck, the
surface winds were calm. Initially, 21 balloons drifted slowly in various
directions at low altitude. As we ascended into the clear sky, we could see
our reflection in the high-rise hotel’s bronze mirrored window glass.

Then two balloons rose rapidly to above 7,000 feet and broke away. The
first was flown by local pilot Jim Seton-Rodgers, the second by Tom Sage.
Nobody thought Jim was serious. Everyone thought Tom was.

I worked hard to keep the event’s two rules foremost in my mind but, with
the colorful balloons of at least a half dozen different countries ascending all
around us, it was tough not to get a little competitive. I chose to follow Jim.
I’d listened to his strategy the night before, and it made sense to me. He
planned to fly for about two hours and then hook up with an ultralight. The
ultralight pilot would let him know when the thermals started to pick up and
it was time to land.

By the time we got to altitude, four balloons ahead of us and two or three
behind looked like Long Jump contenders. Our flight took us north north
west out from Harare over farm fields, orange groves and numerous villages
of mud huts with grass thatched roofs toward Jumbo and Concession.

On cue, Jim’s ultralight appeared. I told my team that I would land when he
did. By that time, two of the other balloons previously ahead of us had
already set down (without tipping their baskets over) Jim flew on for about
another half hour and I kept him in sight. I hoped to go on following him
when he took off later in the day for the second leg.

We landed in what seemed to be the middle of nowhere and suddenly we

found ourselves surrounded by about 200 Africans. At first, all we could see
was their heads and especially their eyes peering out of the high grass. The
expressions on their faces said they must have thought we dropped in from
4

outer space, but soon, they were helping us to pack up the balloon. Not long
after, we were met by the chase crew which was supplied to us by our local
corporate sponsor, Swift Transportation Co., a general freight company
based in Harare.

We marked the spot on our map and sought out the local watering hole for a
bite to eat, and then refueled. When we returned that afternoon, it was very
windy. The first and second place balloons were unable to take off, but a
farmer showed us to a field that was better sheltered from the strongest
gusts. We had a hot launch and continued briskly until near dark when,
using our burners for landing lights, we came down on the 20,000 acre farm
of Colin and Nancy Waddel.

The Waddels offered us African hospitality on a grand scale. They took our
balloon to their house, fed us, and offered us lodging in a cottage by their
nearby game park, a fenced compound from which we watched zebras,
giraffes and lots of other critters. The British team sponsored by The
MetalSales Group had also landed on the Waddel farm, and, after making
themselves very much at home in our beer cooler for quite a while, spent the
night in the main farm house.

At about six the next morning, we inflated and took off with our hostess
Nancy Waddel in the basket with us. The Brits were right behind us with
her husband Colin in their basket. Susan flew first for about 45 minutes in
winds at about 25 mph. Then it was Pete’s turn. He has a tendency to fly
low, so we enjoyed the sights and sounds of Africa. First, we passed over a
small herd of zebra, then some condu, and a couple of bush bucks. They
spooked and ran like heifers do back home.

Next, we approached a range of low mountains, part of the Great Dyke near
Caesar’s mine, and I suggested that Pete climb a bit to avoid the curl on the
other side. From the basket, we could hear a sound like a train or like
running water. Train? Water? "It’s a bloody hurricane, " exclaimed Nancy.
5

She was right! The six-foot-tall grass was laid flat against the ground below
us. The trees were twisting and bending in the rising wind. I hadn’t flown in
that much wind since our trip across Iowa two years earlier. I was glad I
hadn’t brought my GPS-I didn’t want to know how fast we were going! I
couldn’t wait for Pete’s turn to be over. When I took the helm, I planned to
land as quickly as possible.

Having logged 40 or 50 miles already, we put down about 8:30 a.m. on a

farm nestled among rocky hills. I dragged the basket through some trees to
slow us before we settled into a plowed field. Frances Tuke, the lady of the
manor, had watched the whole operation through binoculars. She came over
from her house which was about a quarter mile away, and asked us if we
were still in one piece. And couldn’t we, "use a spot of tea then?"

We adjourned to her verandah. Tea soon became a formal breakfast with

linen napkins and many courses of excellent food. Eggs. Bacon. Fresh
squeezed orange juice. Fried Tomatoes. Home made bread. Papaya. We ate
in a splendid setting which reminded me of Longwood Gardens, an
exquisite horticultural showplace not far from my Conestoga, Pennsylvania
home.

Our chase crew caught up with us about half an hour after we landed and
was duly ushered in to dine with us. After breakfast, our hostess gave us a
tour of her gardens. They were striking in their beauty and variety. It was a
great end to our long jump.

And what of the winner, Jim Seton-Rodgers? On the second morning, he set
off alone before the sunrise, reportedly at 3:30 a.m. and, with suspected
strong disregard for both rules number one and two, flew about 170
kilometers to the Karoi area. Funny about that though. He missed the fine
breakfast we enjoyed on the Tuke’s verandah and on that basis alone, we
kind of considered ourselves as the real winners.
6

http://www.cristytrembly.com/saudi.html

Saudi Arabia
by Cristy Trembly

I can't believe I just got back 2 weeks ago from Saudi

Arabia. It is the most interesting, and confusing place I have
ever visited. It is an extremely modern, rich country, but
with many ideas that we would find restrictive. It was a
privilege for me to be on a Smithsonian trip, which was
costly but the only way a single woman like myself could
even consider going. I have wanted to go, and twice have
been able to look across to Saudi Arabia, but it is like a
million miles away as you just cannot go there. Getting to
Saudi Arabia isn't easy-it is 5+ hrs. to New York from here
then another 13+ hrs. to Jeddah, then another hour and a
half to Riyadh, so you leave California at 9 am on Thursday
and arrive in Riyadh at 8 pm on Friday! It is incredible how
far it is. Not only that, to get our visas, we only got our
passports a day before our trip though they had our
passports 2 months. Going on this Smithsonian tour, it was
unusual for me because I like to go places on my own, but
of course in Saudi that's impossible, and you get so many
extra things, like waiting at JFK Airport in the executive
lounge until our flight, so that was great. We got to meet
the other people in our group, which was really interesting
because they have been to the most incredible countries,
some to Uzbekistan, Iraq, North Korea, West Africa, really
exotic places I would like to go someday! It's nice to be with
people who love travelling to strange places and don't think
I am weird! To understand Saudi Arabia, you need a few
basic facts:
7

It is as large as the United States east of the Mississippi, or

most of Western Europe. So the various regions are almost
like different countries, in culture and levels of
conservatism.

I. You cannot get a visa for tourism there, it doesn't exist.

II. You cannot travel there independently, fly in, rent a car,
do what you want. You must have a sponsor, a job, a
reason to go there.

III. Now if you happen to be a woman, it is even more

restrictive. Women cannot drive, stay in a hotel without a
mahram's permission, in some towns cannot walk alone on
the street.

IV. To clarify, a mahram is a male relative like a brother,

husband, or father.

V. All facilities are separate, every office, restaurant,

building, for singles (men) and families (women and
families.) In some historic sites, museums, and so on, they
have posted hours for families, and some for men only. In
some, women can go alone, but in some, it is written,
"women without mahram prohibited." The McDonalds are
separated into 2 counters, 2 dining rooms, our group was
always separated by a wall or screen as we were mixed
male and female.

VI. Jobs are separate, so with the thousands of well-

educated Saudi women, there are women's hospitals,
banks, schools, universities and so on, so women do have
8

employment opportunities, and it is growing, but not every

field is open to women, so it is very restrictive. Saudi
women do manage it, though, as most have a driver to take
them wherever they want to go, and they are making their
own businesses, especially at home. Women do own
Internet businesses, because they don't have to relate to
men except by phone, and work in government offices with
meetings by videoconference or phone.

VII. Even when there is no official, posted separation, it is

pervasive. In a shopping mall, women will sit in one area
and men will sit on the opposite side; in an airport waiting
area, it is posted to separate, but our group, being mixed,
would sit in a separate area. If one woman sat down, no
man would sit in the entire row. Even more amazing, on the
airplane, if Saudia mistakenly puts a man next to an
unrelated woman, he won't sit next to her. The flight
attendants are quite adept at moving the people around to
keep the men and women separate. Even in the hotels, a
man will not get on an elevator with a woman, and the men
and women in our group were separated on different floors-
one for men, one for woman, and one for couples.

VIII. There are no movie theatres, and no record stores. No

recreation centers or places where people get together.
Swimming pools and health clubs in hotels are usually
restricted to men, and occasionally there will be a separate
time for women.

IX. And crucially, women must wear a black long dress, sort
of like a judge's robe, called an abaya. You must always
cover your hair with a scarf, no you don't have to cover
your face. Saudi women often cover their faces except for
9

their eyes, and in other Islamic countries, you will see

women in colorful abayas, and colorful scarves, the only
color allowed is black, but we did buy some abayas with a
little colored embroidery or design on the buttons, but it is
still black. Every woman, whether Saudi, foreign, Muslim or
not, must absolutely wear the abaya under her clothes
when she goes out. No exceptions. When we went to a
beach, we lifted our abayas up to maybe knee level to put
our feet in the water, but that was it. We got used to
wearing it, as it's like a coat with snaps down the front, and
was made of light material, but in the hot areas it was still
very hot, and climbing up and down the steps in an
archaelogical ruin is not easy in an abaya!

From Smithsonian we have a tour leader, Lauren, who is a

typical Washington bureaucrat, always checking the
embassy situation and security and rift valley fever and
malaria (no danger, believe me!), we are as different as 2
people can be, I am used to getting shows on the air, get it
done, don't ask questions or go through channels, just do it,
take care of it, see the hill, take the hill, that is how I am,
where I could imagine she would only go in an organized
tour with every possible ramification explored in the most
cautious way, I just get on the plane and go but I am fully
studied and prepared! We also had a study leader, Gwenn,
who is a PhD specialist in Saudi Affairs, she even lived in
Saudi Arabia for a year. She has written books about the
economy and the people, and gave us several lectures on
the country, deeper than even all the research and reading I
have done to prepare for the trip. You know me, preparation
is the most important thing on a trip like this! We also had a
naturalist guide and leader, Barbara, who is from Montana
and lives a few blocks from Yellowstone, how cool is that!!
10

She was very nice and kept us organized in a very nice way
and was very sympathetic to our concerns and questions
and all the things we wanted to do. I would highly
recommend the trip, though, and they took great care of us.
You can find them online at
http://smithsonianstudytours.si.edu/.

Saudia is a very modern airline, no alcohol of course but

since I don't drink so that's OK, and lots of individual video
channels and movies and great food. They also have a
prayer room on the plane and an arrow on the TV screen
always showing where Mecca is. People were amazed on the
plane, they had never heard of tourists going, in fact we are
only the 3rd tourist group to ever visit the Kingdom. They
didn't open anything in Customs, which I thought they
would, I had heard stories about it so I didn't even bring my
Good Housekeeping magazines to read for fear there might
be a bra ad or something and they would take it. Any
"suggestive" photos or religious things that are not Islamic,
of course alcohol or pork, all that is forbidden, even cough
syrup with alcohol. But we got through it , and I can't
believe we are really here. When we drove in to town,
seeing road signs for Saudi cities was incredible, that means
we are really here. They are in English and Arabic, and I am
trying to practice my reading all the time. They have huge
8-lane freeways and ultra modern dramatic buildings, most
built since 1970. The oil boon was incredible, so in 30 years
the country has gone from dirt roads, few stores and little
contact with the outside world to a technological giant,
modern hospitals and shopping malls and a major oil
producer. We got to the hotel and ate a little bit and most
importantly, got our abayas and scarves which we will be
required to wear all the time. It's very warm outside, about
11

95 (36C), but not humid. I am lucky that I didn't have to

pay the single supplement for the trip, too, as my assigned
roommate didn't come on the trip so I get to be alone
without saving to pay extra! I am really happy about that,
since I can use the time and the room to organize my stuff
and watch Arabic TV without bothering anyone.

I have been nervous through all this as I have been working

on a plan to stay an extra day to go to Mecca, I am
fascinated and called to go and see it, and since I have
come 8500 miles I need to go the last 40 to get there. I had
been emailing with Smithsonian about this from the
beginning and talked to them personally since April, and
was working with another tour guy in Jeddah to make it
happen, he said it would be easy but as of my arrival in
Saudi I didn't have any confirmations so I was nervous.
However one must learn that everything works on
InshAllah, or God Willing, because if you are supposed to do
it, you will, so I have to be patient. Smithsonian didn't
forbid me to do it but they are very structured and not
wanting to make any changes, but if I am turned over from
them to another person, I won't be a woman alone, and if I
release them from liability and the Saudi guy thinks it is
fine, then I cannot understand the problem, This is the
continuing saga of trying to get things done here, with the
bureaucracy and not being independent to do what you
want. My visa is valid and they have all the paperwork but I
am not sure, day by day if I can do anything. I spoke to
Barbara and Gwenn who see no problem, and to Lauren who
is absolutely against it. I had some sleepless hours worrying
about it but figured if it is supposed to work out, it will.
12

The next day we got up and started our sightseeing of the

capital city, Riyadh. The founder of modern Saudi Arabia,
King Abdul Aziz, brought the two sides together there, as
well as his ancestor who brought the religious leaders
together with his tribe, which is why the religious leaders
and the royal family have a close alliance, even today. They
have a check and balance system which lets the royal family
rule, but always consulting with the religious leaders on
important decisions.

I tried to call my friend Joseph, he is the one from Lebanon

but is now working in Riyadh, so I tried all the numbers I
had but couldn't reach him. With my limited Arabic I don't
really understand what they are saying on the phone, is he
just "not here" or does he not live there, I don't know. So I
am feeling tired and upset about that and then the phone
rang, and it was Joseph! I had written him in April that I
was planning to be in Riyadh on this date and sent 2 copies
of the letter to him in case one got lost. For all the modern
things in Saudi, I have found the mail to be very, very slow.
We're getting together tomorrow which will be great.

We saw the downtown area, with the main square which is

also called "Chop Chop Square" as that is where they do the
public executions after Friday prayers. They don't do it
often, but their law is very literal, "eye for an eye" and their
constitution is the Islamic Sharia. We visited the old market
with carpets, teapots, frankincense and myrrh, spices, lots
of things, and the Masmak Fortress where Abdul Aziz unified
the Kingdom in 1902. In fact, last year was the 100th
Anniversary of modern Saudi Arabia. You may wonder why,
since it isn't 100 years yet, but Saudi goes by the Islamic
Calendar, called the Hegira so their year has 354 days, 11
13

less than ours, so it is 100 years Hegira. Everything is so

modern but still very different as you can tell. While at the
fortress they have a sign that "women without mahram are
prohibited" so unaccompanied women couldn't visit even
during the family hours. Riyadh is much more conservative
than Jeddah or Eastern Province. King Abdul Aziz lived here
until his death in 1953 and was a simple, religious man who
unified the Bedouins and the city people and brought the
country together. His sons have ruled ever since, as the
succession passes from brother to brother. Of course the
brothers are all getting older, so they will make the
grandsons eligible for the throne, but there are many, many
grandsons so it will be interesting to see in the future how
they choose the future kings. We usually spend lunchtime at
the hotel in a screened-off area and always great buffets
with more food than I need! One thing I have noticed is that
there is only Pepsi, almost no Coca Cola. We then have
some free time at the hotel as everyplace is closed in the
early afternoon, for lunch and also for prayer times. There
are 5 prayers a day and in Saudi it is the law that you must
close. So afterwards we visited Diraiyah, the old capital,
where the al-Saud family took control of the country and
made peace with the religious leaders, so it's an old town,
now being restored, with buildings that were homes and
offices of the people back then. It was first settled in 1446.
We also got to see a video crew taping a television historical
drama which was great, they had a Betacam and track and
it all looked very familiar to me!

I got together with Joseph, we took his car to McDonalds so

I could get tray liners. They have 2 sections, one for singles
(men) and one for families so we could sit there; there are
2 counters, 2 dining rooms, and Filipino guys working at the
14

counters. Afterwards we went to a big shopping mall to walk

around and see what is in the stores. Since I was properly
covered and with him I had no problems. He told me not to
worry about the religious police, they aren't out during the
week in the malls and they wouldn't bother us, though they
can ask any couple for their marriage certificate on demand
under penalty of arrest. So I was more free than I thought,
I didn't think he and I could go anywhere at all, but of
course I could never go to his home or even just sit in the
hotel and talk, that would be forbidden, but the mall or
McDonalds was fine.

We also went to the grocery store, I love to do that to see

how much a chicken is or milk or whatever and he was
"absolutely astonished" that I could read a lot of the labels
in Arabic. I told him I would, and I told him I would visit him
in Saudi, and here I am! He just couldn't believe it, I admit
it, I can't believe it!

The next day we visited the Diplomatic Quarter, an area

where embassies are located, and also beautiful homes and
a special guest house for diplomats called the Qasr Tuwaig-
Qasr means castle and it is a beautiful restored building.
They have reception rooms and an outdoor garden with this
stunning painted glass canopy of sea life which was
amazing, and a basketball court, swimming pool and tennis
courts, but of course only for men. They also have extra
security because a Saudia plane was hijacked last night and
is not in Iraq, it was someone who worked at the Jeddah
airport who hijacked the plane, and a Prince was on the
plane too! So very few flags were flying at the embassies,
but we looked at the fancy houses, saw one of the homes
King Fah'd built before he was King, a half-size replica of
15

the White House, but he didn't live there as it didn't seem

right for the King to live in a copy of the White House, so he
gave it to a nephew Prince Salman. It was behind a wall but
we could see the top and take pictures from the bus. That is
the luxurious thing on a Smithsonian tour, they know where
everything is, it is easy, we can arrive exactly when
something is open and there is a special guide waiting for
us, it is really convenient. Of course as a woman, it would
be impossible anyway.

We also went to the National Museum, which is incredible,

has interactive displays and video screens and RF headsets
in different languages so as you walk around with an
earphone you can hear about the exhibit. It is also
interesting, because the earliest history is in a dark room,
then you go up the stairs and with the beginning of Islam
you go into the light, literally it gets brighter! They have
exhibits on Jesus and Moses and the prophets, which Islam
believes in, artifacts from various ruins around Saudi, an
entire area with replicas of the holy mosques in Medina and
Mecca (they spell it Makkah but you know it as Mecca
better)

And Hajj displays, it was just incredible. The only problem is

that we don't have enough time to see everything, it is a
superb museum. We also visited the Murabba Palace where
King Abdul Aziz had his offices and meeting rooms, and
modern things like a 1940s radio which was great! This is
when there was nothing modern in Saudi, a really tribal
lifestyle, and they only had airplane flights since the mid
1940s. There are also photos of his meetings with Roosevelt
and Churchill and making oil deals in the early 1940s, and
his personal mosque. In fact, Roosevelt gave him a DC-3 in
16

1942 which was the beginning of Saudia Airlines. Here in

Saudi there is a mosque on every corner and to hear the
calls to prayer is just wonderful, magical. We also ate at a
traditional Saudi restaurant on the floor with great food, all
kinds, amazing types of bread, vegetables, we even tried
camel meat which was OK but a little strong for me!

Then we flew to Dhahran, which is in the Eastern Province,

so we are near Kuwait and Bahrain here. At the airport, the
women go through a separate screening with Saudi security
ladies in short-sleeved uniforms, but we are behind 2 levels
of curtains in a room with big signs near the curtains, "no
men allowed." This has also happened in other countries,
but every time we are screened in a Saudi airport the
women are separated. On the domestic flights they always
have a prayer to protect us on the loudspeaker at the
beginning of the trip, and always the arrow pointing to
Mecca on the TV screen, and of course we always wear our
abayas and scarves on the plane. Since 1985 there is a
causeway, a long bridge linking Bahrain and Saudi. In fact,
scud missiles landed in this area during the 1991Gulf War.
When I was in Bahrain in 1984, I was it being built and got
a photo through the fence, dreaming of visiting Saudi, and
now here I am, looking over at Bahrain, it is incredible!
They say it is easy to get a visa to go over there but you
cannot get back into Saudi if you go to Bahrain! Saudi
people go, of course, as easily as we cross into Mexico,
some people live in Bahrain and commute or vice versa. For
this reason, Eastern Province is much more modern and
more liberal, so we don't have to wear our scarves as often
but we always wear our abayas, there is never a place so
liberal that we don't need our abayas! In fact, when we
went to the beach to put our feet in the water, we still had
17

to wear our abayas and just pull them up above our ankles!
Many people also like to live in Bahrain because it is much
more liberal than anywhere in Saudi, they permit alcohol
and have movie theatres and music on the radio and women
can drive! It is also very modern, and you don't have to
wear an abaya (of course you must dress conservatively but
black abayas not required!) I would like to go back there
and see how it has changed in 15 years.

We are very lucky to have wonderful Saudi guides with us

on the entire trip-there is a new Ministry of Tourism and the
Prince in charge of it is the Saudi astronaut that flew in the
Space Shuttle. I guess he has been further away than
anybody!! Our Saudi guides are great, one is Sa'ad, in his
40s, his family is Bedouin and they are from Al Jouf, he's
married to an American woman from Louisiana and he went
to college in Arizona. They live half the year in Saudi when
he is working here and the rest in the States, so he knows
both sides very well and can explain it all to us. Our other
guide is young, he is training, his name is Samer and he is
from Jeddah, his parents were killed in a car accident and
he is very sweet. It is interesting to talk to a young Saudi
guy, he loves to wear traditional clothes and he looks like
the cover of a desert brochure! His father was in the
religious police, so he knows about strictly following Islam
but he also loves Britney Spears!

It is much more humid here, over 100 degrees (40C) and so

we are really warm all the time. They have a new airport in
Jubail in the northern area then we drove to Al Khobar to
the Meridien Hotel which was absolutely stunning. This is a
major date-producing area and the center for Saudi Aramco,
the huge oil company and ultramodern interactive museum
18

on the oil industry in Saudi. They have incredible exhibits

that appeal from junior high students to advanced
scientists, with displays and a booth where you go in and
with video and motion, it takes you down into an oil well
where you can see it being mined, so it looks real out your
"window", of course it is just a video screen but it is very
real! It is too bad that every 4th grade class can't go there,
it is so interesting and educational and well-done. The public
relations person met us and took us around, she is a Saudi
woman and covered her hair and was in a long skirt and
jacket but not an abaya. Her husband works on the
compound at the hospital and her father worked for Aramco
so they have always lived on the compound. There are
many, many Americans who work there, in fact on the
compound only, within the gates, women can drive! They
have a Wendy's hamburgers and a school and everything,
and a golf course made from oil and sand, with different
colors for the greens, fairways etc. The golf club was the
only place we ever saw any kind of shirts for sale with Saudi
Arabia on them and we bought out the store. We also saw
the famous pump #7, the first place oil was drilled from in
1938, which of course started the entire Saudi economy.
There is a famous petroleum university here, and we saw
Tornado jets flying over from the Air Force base nearby.
There are a lot of American solders in Saudi.

We also got to spend the day with an American lady who

married a Saudi and moved here 17 years ago. She has
learned to manage the restrictions with the benefits, and
shared her life with us, from sending her daughters to Saudi
school contrasted with the American school she teaches in.
The girls dress in their abayas for Saudi school then go to
Girl Scouts afterwards, so they really do have both worlds.
19

We saw a bunch of schoolgirls going home for lunch, black

ones for elementary school, gray for junior high and brown
for high school, and you have to start covering your face
after your first period, so if you start at 10 or 11 you don't
tell because you'll be relegated to the veil that much sooner.
There are no income taxes but fees are increasing for
residence permits, drivers licenses etc.

There's a beautiful Corniche, 150 km long with stores and

hotels and you can walk along it, even as a woman! They
have a great bookstore where we all bought a lot of books
and a very nice mall with abayas in one store and a Body
Shop and Warner Brothers store next door! It is another of
the Saudi contradictions, the blending of modern vs.
traditional. In the same way, Saudi TV has 2 channels and
they are news on what the royal family is doing, prayer
time, Qu'ran readings, and interview shows with men, and
maybe some kind of drama series, but now people have
satellite dishes so CNN, MTV, and everything in between is
available. There is still some control, for example European
TV commercials where they show a woman in the shower
(in the States the glass would be foggy, not so in Europe!),
they make the video fuzzy on the soap commercial, but
there is a lot more freedom than I thought. Many people
have fences around their satellite dishes because the
religious police used to throw rocks at them. We had a
barbecue lunch at a date farm, they just hang off the trees.
We went to an upscale store called Arab Heritage with
beautiful clothes and furniture and all sorts of things, I
bought a couple little cloth dolls which were girls but only
their eyes show, they are quite unique and not too
expensive, but of course everything else I saw that I wanted
was at least $800 so I left it all there!!
20

I also got to actually go to the post office to buy stamps,

people don't understand that when you are a stamp
collector it is fun to look so I wanted to see for myself, but a
woman cannot go to the post office, Joseph said in his 35
years he had never, ever seen a woman in a post office, so
one of the guys from the group who also collected stamps
wanted to go, they looked at us strangely but knew we were
foreigners so they gave him stamps, I let him talk in our
fractured Arabic then we divided up the goodies at the
hotel. Still, though, there are only about 5 kinds of stamps,
everything is metered, so it is very tough, and in our other
attempts at the post office we also never found more than 5
kinds, usually about the same, whether it be the airport or a
small town! I would get tired of not being able to do things
myself, but Sabrina has a driver who does things and of
course drives her and the kids everywhere, so she doesn't
feel restricted. She is also very independent so has learned
to adapt, I think in some ways I could, in some ways not,
like I could only work at an all-female TV channel, so I
would have to start one!

After this, we flew to Al Jouf via Riyadh, but we didn't have

to wait in the airport, they arranged for us to go to the
camel market to see the different kinds of camels and how
they can cost thousands of dollars, we also went past the
farms of some royalty, had a very nice lunch then back on
the plane. Al Jouf is in the far north of the country, almost
to Jordan or Iraq which is just 200 km away (125 miles)!
There is also an air base in Al Jouf with planes that patrol
the neighboring area, so I hear. It is hard to imagine how
big Saudi is and how you can be bordering Bahrain in the
morning and Jordan in the afternoon. We were going to stay
21

in the hotel there, but they had a problem and it was full so
the Prince offered to have us stay at his compound. Of
course we had to be separated, couples, single men, single
women, so we were in 3 separate buildings. Of course we
walked all around and took pictures everywhere. We were
supposed to have a meeting with him but he cancelled, oh
well! We had a house for we 3 women, separate bedrooms
but a living room and 2 bathrooms and a dressing room and
full kitchen, we were living very well! I preferred it to the
hotel anyway-we ate at the hotel but I enjoyed staying in
the compound.

Here it is much cooler and we are relieved, the guys just

don't understand how hot it is! In the evening we went over
to Sa'ad's family home, which is a huge tent compound, not
like our tents, I mean gorgeous with beautiful carpets and
TV and VCR and air conditioning. They brought all sorts of
food for us and it was great. It was like a dream, sitting on
pillows on the
floor in a Bedouin tent, really incredible, drinking tea. His
sisters didn't mind for us to take pictures of them, which
was great as we are strictly prohibited from photographing
Saudi women, you just don't do it, even another woman!
The family has a lot of land in this area, all around us, and
the women make carpets and I took pictures, even with her
face fully covered she can see through it to weave these
rugs, I can't believe it! I looked through one of the veils and
you can see through it but I am glad we don't have to do
that!

The highlight of this area is an archeological site, Domat al

Jandal. It looks like Arizona or New Mexico, very
Southwestern USA, and cooler. There are ruins called
22

Rajajil, which are standing stones something like

Stonehenge. No one knows what they are for but have
markings traced back to 4000 BC. Domat al Jandal is a town
with houses and a tower and old ruins from various periods,
some from Nabatean (about 100BC-100AD) and some even
older, it is said Ishmael stayed here, the colors and the
rocks are just beautiful. We had a local archeologist walk
around with us, and of course walking up and down in our
abayas is even slower, he patiently waited for us and I
remarked, "it is not easy in an abaya" and he said he had
never thought of that before. We also visited Masjid Umar,
the mosque built by Umar, the Second Caliph, basically the
second leader after Mohamed's death, built in about 638
AD. Just incredible, and we were particularly fortunate as it
is still in use but we could visit since there is no one there
praying, otherwise it is absolutely forbidden to take photos
in a mosque.

We also visited the Al-Jouf Water Factory, with clean

bathrooms and to see how they bottle the water. I was
amazed and we could see how they puff up the bottles
which start as little tubes and how they check the water-we
could stand very close and watch everything, much more
than you could here where they worry about liability and
lawsuits! We met the guys who work there who were
fascinated by us, I could speak to one who is a Tunisian and
we could speak French and he explained it all to me and I
told the others. Most of the guys here were from other Arab
countries, our bus driver is from Syria so I was able to tell
him I had been there and it was nice, of course my
sentences sound like a 3 year old but I am trying!
23

We also visited a falcon training place, the guys have

falcons for sport and hunting and just showing off, the way
British guys have dogs I guess, but falconry is a very Arab
guy thing, so it was cool to see them.

We also visited some Nabatean wells and other areas, to the

shops there, I got a cute little teapot very cheaply, but
there are no tourist things to buy as they don't have
tourists. So no tshirts and very few postcards, we are truly
pioneers. This morning I drank some mango juice that didn't
agree with me, I think because it was on an empty stomach
as I had drunk mango juice every day in Saudi, but it was
really bothering me. I am so frustrated as every day we are
sightseeing from 8 am to 9 pm or so and there are fantastic
things to see and do everywhere and I cannot do anything,
I can barely hold anything down. This was a lucky day for
me, though, as they had a lot of First Class tickets which
they rotated among the group, and today I got to fly up
front! So I can be all the more chic as I get ill in the First
Class bathroom! They change some of the flights around
which is hard for us because our tour plans are dependent
on being at the airport at a certain time and seeing things
on a schedule. We didn't know if we would fly to Medina
directly, or even through Riyadh, no one knew, but when we
got in the air it was non-stop to Medina. I am really upset
because I am in the holy city of Medina and my stomach
feels terrible, I am hot and faint and feel nasty.

Samer said he would take me into town, there are some

places I want to see, but I feel terrible. He had shopping to
do in town and said I could come along. I have to get the
strength to go; I ate some rice and tried not to be sick, I
took Pepto, Rolaids, Ginger, we had a very nice doctor and
24

he gave me some medicine but I felt awful, and he was so

nice, I just cried because people were so nice and I felt
terrible.

Anyway, I prayed for the strength to go and I made it, we

took a taxi and went very fast to the Prophet's Mosque in
Medina, which is second only to Mecca in importance and
beauty. I have seen it on TV so many times and seen it in
books but to see it at night, it is all lit up and just incredible,
the most amazing thing. I was just stunned, so I sat
outside, I went inside and prayed, it was very difficult, he
told me to take my camera but not my video camera, keep
it in my bag and not even attempt a photo unless he was
with me and asked a policeman, as if I got in trouble I can't
speak Arabic to get out of trouble, well that is true. There
are ladies on the women's side fully covered in abayas but
with patches on their shoulders, very serious women to
keep you from doing anything wrong (like a picture!) So I
was very careful, of course there is no time to see anything
and many of the places inside are closed off. It is also not
open 24 hrs. like the mosque in Mecca so you cannot just
go and stay at any hour. So I walked around, then he came
back and we walked around the outside, I have to be careful
because of course I don't know where is OK and where is
forbidden. I also noticed a sign for a parking lot, it was
marked "women only" which was strange to me since
women can't drive, but the drivers must wait in their cars
down below for the women to come, that is the only thing I
can figure.

Seeing the Prophet's Mosque was incredible, but it was just

like a taste, there was so little time, and I only saw a small
part. Afterwards, we went over to the market and bought
25

some things, after all I am in Medina, I had to buy some

things to take home, it is unbelievable! He was such a
gentleman, he got water for me from the holy well which
they bring up and he said if I prayed and drank it, it would
help my stomach, which I did, and I actually felt a little
better, but it was hot and I had to be even more covered
than usual to be there. He always made sure I had a place
to sit and carried my stuff when he went into a store, I was
just sitting outside looking at everything, totally in awe.

So we finished and then got a taxi for an hour, it was only

$20, no problem, and drove around and he held my camera
out the window and took a lot of photos, then we went to
the Qiblatain Mosque, just outside, it means 2 Qiblas, Qibla
is the word for the direction of Mecca, so when you see a
Qibla in a mosque you know which way to pray. So
originally people prayed towards Jerusalem, but Mohamed
got a message from God that they should pray to the black
stone in Mecca so Mohamed came in when people were
praying, he waited until they were done and said, God has
told me we should pray in another direction, so they moved
the other way and prayed that way too. If you put an -tain
on the end of a word it means 2, therefore Qiblatain is 2
directions. It is very famous-I also saw the Hejaz Railroad
Station, from the Lawrence of Arabia times, there are rail
lines from Damascus to Mecca, and were used in the early
1900s. Of course Medina was a big stop on the road for the
pilgrimage. The city is incredible, with modern shopping
malls, we needed to buy some film for one of the guys in
the group, I went to a grocery store in the mall, here I am
in Medina in a mall buying film, as I write this I have to
pinch myself! It is impossible to believe it. We also passed
the cemetery where many members of Mohamed's family
26

are supposed to be buried, but it is dark and we can't see,

also the graves have no markings, but I was there anyway!
There is a beautiful waterfall along the road, it is so
beautiful here, I wish I had more time. We got home about
11 pm and I didn't feel well but I got into bed after getting
myself organized, as we must be up at 4:45 am tomorrow
to go to Madain Salah, which is why everyone else got hours
of extra sleep but I was out running around and sick to
boot, but when will I get to Medina again? I cannot believe I
am here!!

Of course it was 4:45 am all too soon but this is a highlight

of our trip, a full day excursion to Madain Salah, which is a
Nabatean ruin that is very similar to Petra, Jordan, and not
that far from Petra as the crow flies, about 4 hrs. by car. I
am sure you have seen Petra, the rose-colored rock and the
buildings carved into the rock, well this is quite similar but
not the same rock so not rose colored, but orange, and not
as large. It is about 3 hrs. away from Medina and is really in
the middle of nowhere. We took the bus up to the ruins and
had a picnic lunch at the Hejaz RR station up here, which
has an old rail car inside. We ate on the ground, they work
very hard to give us box lunches with sandwiches and fruit
and drinks, I am taking it very easy on the food because my
stomach is a long way from normal, but I am on Cloud Nine
from my visit to Medina downtown, and thank God I made
it!

The mountains around here are so red, it is really amazing

to see it They are happy I got to Medina and so are thinking
of how to get me to Mecca-I think all have figured out this is
very important to me, so Lauren said she would explain to
the other people when we get to Jeddah that I have to go
27

home on time but they will arrange for Samer or one of the
people in his office to take me, even if I have to miss seeing
some things in Jeddah which I said was fine, whatever they
can do. My bottom line is to get there and not look like a
dufus to the people in Jeddah because I just feel awful
about it, and all the work, but if she can pull this off so
much the better.

So we look at everything, took some very famous photos

from the ruins that I hope will look like the postcards, then
stopped in Al Ula on the way back. There is a new hotel
there people want to look at, which was very nice with a
gorgeous view of the ruins. Of course then you don't go to
Medina, which would be devastating as far as I am
concerned. But it might be nice to overnight here after you
have been to Medina because you are a long way back. If
one had a lot of time, you could visit several ruins in a car,
like from Al Jouf to Taima, Tabuk, Madain Salah then end up
in Medina, drop the car, but oops we can't do that so we
have to fly! I don't think there are any hotels in the other
places either, so this will all happen in time. After all, things
are changing at a fast pace, slavery was only abolished in
1962, though the servants stayed on with their families, and
no one ever believed there would be tourists from western
countries, if it ever happened, people thought it would only
be from Islamic countries.

When we got home to Medina again we had all slept on the

bus and I went right to bed, about 10 pm after getting my
suitcase together (we never have time to unpack them, we
just get some clothes out and throw on our abayas), and off
to the airport to go to Jeddah. Samer is from Jeddah and he
says it is the best place, everyone says so as it has had the
28

most cosmopolitan influence, having the port on the Red

Sea and being the port of entry for the Hajj (the pilgrimage
to Mecca) they have seen foreign people and many ideas for
1400 years. It was pretty cool in the airport to see the
pilgrims who make the Umrah or lesser pilgrimage which
you can do any time of year, the men wear a special type of
clothing and you have to put it on before you get to Mecca,
so there are a lot of guys in these clothes waiting for their
airplanes, and people from every country, a large Malaysian
group also going on the Umrah and you can feel the
difference.

So we flew to Jeddah and had lunch at this gorgeous

restaurant overlooking the sea, with huge windows, it
reminded me of the Punta Morro Hotel in Ensenada, right on
the water with a fabulous view. It is very, very hot and
humid, but Jeddah is a gorgeous place, with beautiful
sculptures at each traffic circle, and a fantastic Corniche
with a sea view everywhere and beautiful stores and
everything so modern I cannot believe it. And you can walk
here, even the women! This is great! I am still not feeling
well, just small food which is better for me anyway, ha ha, I
have never looked at fabulous buffet food and just went, no,
not really interested, just a couple of bites! We stayed at
the Inter Continental which is right next to the sea, and a
McDonalds right across the parking lot, yippee! I asked if it
was OK to go, they said yes, I thought maybe I need
something familiar, not that I eat there at home but
sometimes your stomach just needs something plain, not
fancy. So I got a hamburger, I walked in by myself which
the Filipino guys behind the counter were pretty amused by,
I asked if it is OK to be there, I looked carefully for the
family door, a couple guys saw me walk in like I was
29

mentally ill but the guys inside said, oh no Madam, you are
very welcome, do you come from America? Duh, even in our
abayas we don't look like we come from around here. I took
my burger back to the hotel though, it was a little too weird
to try and eat it there even in the family section upstairs.
Jeddah is also the first place where we saw Americans in the
hotels and people doing business there.

Then we went to see old Jeddah which is being restored.

Like many cities, buildings are often torn down for progress,
but they are working very hard to restore this part of the
city, which dates back to 1487. There are many beautiful
buildings, the old market which is the shopper's mecca; you
know, I think how often we use the word Mecca, or Wall
Street being the financial mecca, or the Empire State
Building being a tourist mecca, we use this expression all
the time and now we see where it comes from, the center of
the thing, which of course comes from the holy city of
Mecca. We bought a lot of stuff in the market in Jeddah, this
is the ultimate shopping and dealing place, I am pretty good
at bargaining and my Arabic numbers are excellent. We
toured the Nassif House which is 300 years old and being
restored, in fact King Abdul Aziz lived here at one time,
there is wood furniture in the style of Damascus that we
saw the originals when we were there, friends of the people
we stayed with in Damascus you may remember. We had a
beautiful dinner on the roof of the Nassif House, overlooking
the city, positively amazing. So Samer comes to me and
said, we have someone to take you to Mecca, right after
dinner you will go. Of course I am ready right now but I
have no control over this so I must wait, I ate a little but I
am not hungry and also anxious!
30

We got back to the hotel about 10 pm and we haven't gone

anywhere, but not to worry, it will all happen, we will call
you. So they did, one of the guys, very cute, Essam, looks
like David Cassidy, he got me at the hotel and took me to
his house where we would pick up his wife, since we are not
supposed to go places unaccompanied as I am a single
female. I imagined his wife as serious all dressed in black,
we walked in, she was in jeans and a
flannel-type shirt, hi, come in, have some tea, they have a
baby about 18 months old playing on the floor watching
music videos, a kitten is eating in the kitchen, getting food
on the floor, just a normal family. I feel I should be more
dressed up but I don't have any better clothes to wear so I
have to think God likes me just the same.

I was so blessed to be able to see Mecca for myself, and

only 45 mins. from Jeddah. I had seen it on TV for years
and it is the place where all Muslims point to when they
pray, the black stone of Abraham and Ishmael. It is huge,
and has been expanded several times. 2 million people
come there every year at Hajj time and it was still crowded
even at midnight on a normal weekday, but it was just
thrilling to see the hills where Hagar was looking for water
for her child Ishmael and ran between the 2 hills and then a
well sprang up, now called the Zamzam well and still
providing water today (Genesis 21). I drank the water there
and brought some home and to share with friends, it was
amazing. I can never describe how long I had read and
researched about this place and how exciting it was to
actually see it. The black stone was smaller than I thought,
31

but it was because the mosque surrounding it was so

incredibly huge. There is a display with a footprint of
Abraham, and I will always remember how the black cloth
smelled, it is finely embroidered and has the smell of
incense and the touch of it, just overwhelming and
unforgettable. The colors are beautiful, the ceilings, the
spots where there is air conditioning (even at night it is 90
degrees and warm inside, parts have a roof and parts are
open). No matter how prepared I was, reading about every
part and everything, I was just stunned and overwhelmed
and forgot everything, I was just staring at it! I wanted to
sit there for 2 hours and just look at it, try to soak it up, but
we didn't have much time, so we had to leave and go back
to Jeddah. It was part of the contradiction too that as we
walked out of the Holy Mosque, that was just overwhelming,
and in front is the Hilton Hotel and a Burger King! At the
checkpoint there is a gas station and a McDonalds! It is
really amazing, there are definitely no words to describe it,
on every level. I had resigned myself that if I was supposed
to see it, I would, and God provided!

After that, I didn't need to do anything else, in fact we were

there until about 3 am, so the next day I was so tired, doing
all these extra things while the Smithsonian people were
sleeping! Of course it was worth it, I can sleep at home! We
flew to the south of Saudi, to Abha, about 6000 feet and
cool and green. I had to stay awake, I don't want to miss
anything! The hotel was the most elegant we had stayed in,
written up in Leading Hotels of the World, the Abha Palace,
gorgeous, allied with Dallas' Mansion at Turtle Creek so you
have some idea. I had like a suite inside, fantastic view and
definitely the world that I would like to become accustomed
to! They had tons of cable TV channels, with Arabic news,
32

CNN and ESPN and a pretty racy music video channel from
Europe, especially by Saudi standards. Another
contradiction, no record stores but you can get videos on
satellite, so Saudi TV was really boring by comparison.

We met Raed, our guide in Abha, who was very handsome

and looks like Gregory Harrison with a mustache! He was
very helpful. Abha is the base for the Asir
National Park, the first area they are trying to develop for
tourism, mostly from other Arab countries. They have a
cable car into the canyon and a nice market and another
large town called Khamis Mushayt with an American base
with Tornados and F-15s. We were in the market and saw
some women in abayas next to us bartering with prices in
Arabic and then said in a perfect American accent, "I think
we got a good deal" so we didn't know them and I asked,
"where are you from" and they were as amazed as me!
Their husbands
worked at the base at Khamis and they couldn't believe we
were tourists! We saw a beautiful artists' colony with
traditional architecture and fantastic paintings and murals
and Arabic caligraphy, I wish I could have afforded some of
it!

We also visited a small village, Al Sooda, with traditional

dancers and a museum that was 500 years old. We are at
the highest point in Saudi, 10,000 feet (3100m), such
contrasts around the different areas of the country! These
people were really fascinated with us, as we were with
them, and we felt like we were in a National Geographic
special. The experiences we had were just amazing, seeing
the children, watching the dancers, it was great. We are
33

only about 100 miles from the Yemen border here, of course
Saudi borders almost all the countries in the region so it is
frustrating that we can't visit any of them!

We have to go home now, though, so we flew back to

Jeddah for a wonderful dinner at a very posh country club
and then left Jeddah at 2 am for New York, arrived at 7 am
and cleared customs then got on my flight to LA, arrived
home at 2 pm, not too bad! I was able to sleep about 8
hours, it is incredible how you could fly so far but still be
home in a day. It was an incredible experience, though and
absolutely fantastic. I would recommend this trip to anyone
who wants to see an entirely different culture blending with
an ultra-modern society, it was just fantastic!
34

http://www.vagabonding.com/travelogue/000086.html

A Cremation in Kathmandu
This is the closest I've ever been to a dead body, I thought as I sat on a bench on the
banks of the Bagmati, a holy river near Kathmandu which, like the Ganges in Varanasi,
is a popular place for cremations. Swathed in a white sheet with a square of golden
cloth covering its head and shoulders, a corpse lay atop a stretcher on the ground less
than seven yards from my feet.

Unlike the other cremations taking place on the ghats, which drew large groups of
family and friends, just three men were gathered for this funeral; they sat on a bench
directly next to mine. Surprisingly, one of them turned and hit me up with the old
"Hello, where are you from?" bit. From the beginning, though, it was clear that the guy
was after nothing more than a chat.

Head Constable Shankar RawalHis name was Shankar Rawal, Head Constable for the
Kathmandu Police. He had spiky black hair, a thick moustache, and was dressed in a
black and maroon tracksuit. He'd come with his brother and nephew to cremate a
friend. Clearly in a reflective mood, Rawal quickly dispensed with surface banter.

"So many people miss the purpose of life," he said. "They seek material things: gold,
cars, money, houses. But these things don't bring satisfaction. The Buddha said,
'Satisfaction is not certain, but death is certain.'" Rawal nodded toward the corpse. "My
friend didn't know what was important in life. He was just about to turn thirty."

"That's my age," I interrupted.

"Mine too," Rawal said. He carried on: "He lost his mind over a woman, and it
consumed him. First he began to drink. A little, then a lot. Then he began to use
drugs." Rawal pantomimed a syringe against his forearm. "His family disowned him. He
slept on the street. He was a burden on society."

A Hindu who quoted Buddha and the Bible, Rawal went on to assert his belief in a single
God that different religions call by various names.

"Although we have different skin colors and different religions… Although you call
yourself an American and I call myself a Nepali, our blood is still red, we're all the same
underneath. We…"

Rawal's friends interrupted him. It was time to prepare the body.

I asked Rawal if he'd like me to leave. "No," he replied. "Stay if you like."

The three friends unwrapped the white sheet that covered the body. Inside, the naked
corpse was encased in a sheet of thick clear plastic. The friends opened the plastic and
35

set about rubbing the body with a mixture of powder and water drawn from the holy
river.

The frail brown body was malleable, and the friends manipulated it gently, moistening
every bit of skin with their bare hands. The dead man's flesh hung loosely upon his
small frame. A stitched-up seam ran the vertical length of his chest; there had been an
autopsy. I glimpsed the lines of a crude tattoo on his right shoulder.

Somehow, that tattoo was the saddest thing I'd ever seen.

The three friends set about their work with grave expressions, but nobody wept. They
handled the corpse with tenderness and also a sort of nonchalance. Rawal's brother
uncovered the head and carefully massaged the powder and water onto his deceased
friend's face.

Preparations complete, the men rewrapped the body in the white sheet and carried it
on the stretcher to the waiting funeral pyre. They made three clockwise revolutions
around the pile of logs before placing their friend atop. The nephew took a torch from a
fire burning nearby and made several circumambulations around the corpse.

Cremation Ghats on the BagmatiAs

the sheet caught fire, Rawal laid loose bundles of thatch
atop the pyre. The thatch fueled the blaze and obscured the body's form once the sheet
burned away.

Thick yellow smoke poured off the pyre as the flames gained momentum. The friends
stepped back and watched as a man who worked at the ghats shoved smaller sticks
into strategic locations.

Rawal returned to his seat on the bench and watched the pyre burn. "Now we wait for
three hours," he told me. His face was expressionless as he looked toward the fire.

"Are you feeling sad?" I asked after a short while.

"A little," he replied. "He was a bad man, and he caused many people pain. But it's still
sad to see someone go. Especially after all the little dramas."

Looking at me, Rawal motioned with his head toward the clear afternoon sky and said,
"Now, for him, comes the greatest drama of them all."
36

http://home.earthlink.net/~ryan-
silva/Site/

Trip to Iraq, January 2003

A view of the Tigris River from my hotel room

Last fall, 30,000 academics signed a petition opposing the apparently

impending war with Iraq. In response, the University of Baghdad invited
signatories to the petition to visit Baghdad to learn more. Thirty-two
people, myself included, accepted the invitation and traveled to Baghdad
on January 11. We traveled using our own funds so as to maintain the
independence of our group. We do not support the government of Iraq but
traveled with the hope of learning more about and showing support for
Iraqi people.

Before leaving, I had some concerns. Frustration over U.S. foreign policy
might translate into aggression from Iraqis. A crisis might occur and make
it difficult to leave. The significance of the trip could be twisted by the
media both in Iraq and the US, to opposite ends. And it seemed likely that
the trip would be so closely managed by the Iraqi government that
genuine interaction with Iraqis would be difficult or impossible.

Upon arrival, though these concerns did not melt away, I had the sense
that it had been right to face my fears. The Iraq I saw is filled with
ordinary people trying to live ordinary lives - students eager to practice
their English, shopkeepers anxious to sell souvenirs, professors excited
about the opportunity to exchange academic ideas and children curious to
interact with foreign visitors. Yet overshadowing this ordinariness is a
deep sadness and frustration, as foreign soldiers and bombs gather
around a nation weary from years of war, sanctions and international
isolation.
37

Our hosts were eager to show off their cultural heritage - a heritage
shared by all human beings as Iraq is the "cradle of civilization". We were
taken to the ruins of Babylon, the Baghdad Museum, mosques and other
historical sites. I was struck by how much stood to be lost to war.

Iraq has been and should be a prosperous country, with fertile land fed by
the Tigris and Euphrates, an abundance of oil and a populace that places a
high value on education. Since the end of the 1991 Gulf War, sanctions
imposed on Iraq have resulted in deaths from malnutrition and disease as
well as economic devastation and the isolation of ordinary Iraqis. Iraq's
health care system, once among the best in the Middle East, now
struggles to cope with even easily curable diseases. The formerly
impressive educational system, lacking access to international journals,
conferences, and academic exchange, now lags behind. The sanctions,
intended to weaken Saddam Hussein and impair his ability to remilitarize,
have directed his people's anger toward the US rather than his own
regime. Our attempts to marginalize and weaken Saddam Hussein have
weakened and demoralized Iraq's 24 million people, but seem not to have
affected the regime much.

We knew that the Iraqi government had an interest in controlling what we

saw and heard and we were under no illusions that we were interacting
with a representative cross-section of Iraq's diverse population. Our hosts
were primarily university professors, administrators and students, a
number of whom had been educated in the United States. However, we
learned more than just the government line on the current situation. We
witnessed some discomfort about the heavy-handedness of the official
message being presented to us and heard about Iraqis' desire to be
accepted members of the international community.

I heard repeatedly from Iraqis that they genuinely like America and
Americans, and I was warmly greeted by everyone I met. Nevertheless,
the Iraqis I talked to do not trust the United States' expressed desire to
"liberate" them. They were adamant that they could not accept change
imposed by a foreign power. If attacked, they would be forced to defend
their land against the US, which they believe is more interested in their oil
than in their human rights.

This attitude came as no surprise based on experiences that I have had

studying and working in other parts of the Middle East for more than four
38

years. The history of colonialism by the British and French is still fresh in
the minds of most Arabs I have met and they are deeply distrustful of
foreign intervention into their countries. Though many Americans perceive
a difference between former imperialist actions of European powers and
current US policy, we cannot ignore that millions of people in the Middle
East do not accept this distinction.

On January 17, the Washington Post reported that postwar plans already
drawn up by the Administration state that following a US invasion, "Iraqis
relegated to advisory roles in the immediate postwar period would
gradually be given a greater role, but they would not regain control of
their country for a year or more…". It seems singularly unwise, from a
security perspective, for the US to put itself in the position of militarily
occupying an Arab country, especially for such an extended period. Of
special concern is the fact that Iraq contains many Islamic holy sites and
is close to Islam's most sacred places of Mecca and Medina in Saudi
Arabia. The attacks of September 11 illustrated vividly that it does not
take weapons of mass destruction to cause havoc; a relatively small group
of enraged and determined individuals with modest resources can have a
devastating impact. A preemptive strike on Iraq would also set a
dangerous precedent encouraging other countries to take preemptive
actions against their enemies.

In October 2002 letter to the Senate Intelligence Committee, CIA Director

George Tenet stated that the likelihood of Saddam Hussein launching an
unprovoked attack on the US is low but that, if cornered, he would
become much more dangerous. A firm and consistent policy of
containment and deterrence is an option that can enhance global security
without destabilizing the region or creating even more implacable
enemies. It is not a viable or sustainable foreign policy to invade every
country that has oppressive leadership and dangerous weapons.

I believe that Saddam Hussein's regime is brutal one and Iraqis deserve a
better future. But to be legitimate and to endure, change must come from
within. We can support internal change through engagement with Iraq in
which great international influence can be brought to bear. We must ease
the sanctions and isolation that Iraqis have experienced for twelve years
to end the unintended effect of strengthening Saddam Hussein's regime
and weakening average Iraqis. At the same time, we must pursue an
39

arms control policy that reflects the needs and interests of all countries in
the Middle East.

At the conclusion of our trip, our group prepared a joint statement

outlining our position and recommendations on Iraq as informed by our
trip and previous knowledge of the region. We encourage others to
distribute the statement and to use it as a starting point for discussion.

There is still time to act to try to stop a war and I urge others to do so. I
have provided information below to assist those who want to learn more
about Iraq and/or to speak out against a war.

Thank you for taking the time to read this and to think about these issues.
Feel free to pass on this information to anyone who may be interested.
This website only scratches the surface of very complex issues. I would be
happy to share more about my experiences and to hear others'
viewpoints.

Julie Ryan-Silva
Graduate Student
Institute for Conflict Analysis and Resolution
George Mason University
E-mail: jryansilva@yahoo.com
40

Follow The Israel Experience Trail!

http://www.jfed.org/israel/comtrip00/jlast.htm

2000 ISRAEL TRIP JOURNAL

THE ISRAEL EXPERIENCE

------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/4. Every day I wake up with the fear that the beauty I see today won't top
the beauty I saw yesterday, and every day I am amazed….

Everyday I wake up with the fear that my body will not be able to handle
the power of Israel, and everyday I obtain an immense amount of
strength.…

Every new day I wonder how these wonders are possible, and then I
remember g-d and where I am. I am home. Meira
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/4. This is my first 4th of July that I won't be celebrating in the U.S. I can
remember last year I was at a huge party with all of my friends. Now that I
think about it I miss my friends so much. I have never had to make new
friends, I've always had the same friends from elementary school. The first
days of this trip were so awesome and fun, things to remember, to tell my
friends when I get back home, but how I get the feeling of not being "cool"
or good enough. I have tried to talk to other people, but I don't think all of
you realize how intimidated I am by you. It's not going to kill you to talk or
sit next to other people that are not in our "group." I'm sorry if that sounds
bad. I only want to have fun on this trip, and be able to look back on it and
say it was worth it all, to spend a summer away from my friends, family,
41

home, my room, what I know as mine. I hate bus rides. And I wish that one
counselor (that shall remain nameless) would stop having favorites, or just
stop showing it so much. I would just like to say that we do pay attention
when people talk, even if we are not looking at the person we are paying
attention. At first it wasn't helping to make my trip any better, but I'm not
going to let that bother e and that's about all I have to say. Thanks for
reading.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/5. After a long discussion questioning our abilities to pay attention and
follow directions we set for a new day. Memories of last night linger in the
backs of our head as we strive for camper perfection. As a "we forgive you
present" our counselors brought us pretzels and boker tov drawings as we
set off for our new adventure.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like this place! As we drive along, the fruitless, dried out desert becomes
the most valuable thing in the world. Each piece of gravel that is placed
under us as burning pavement shows the sweat of a fellow, Jew? Arab? It
doesn't matter, but he is my friend. He has paged the way for a group of
brats from around the world to find themselves. This fellow is strong; I am
weak…but I am learning the secrets to thick states of life, and love. I belong
here (at least for another 4 weeks.).
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/5. We just went to the Israeli and Lebanese border. Our guide was the
security guard of the kibbutz and he had emigrated to Israel from New York
30 years ago. He told us a story about how some Lebanese "freedom
fighters" took hostages 20 years ago in a building that we were sitting right
next to. Most of the people they took hostage were between the ages of 6
months to 1 year old. Eventually all 5 of the "freedom fighters" were killed
during the raid of the house, but not before they managed to kill one of the
babies with the butt of their rifle, because it had cried too much. Someone
who can kill a bay like that isn't a Freedom Fighter, they are a murderer.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hooray for Israel. As I sit here on the bus to lunch, with my hat on my lap
and a girl on my arm, I am content. And cold. The girl on my arm insists on
keeping the AC vent open. Her foot is asleep. My left arm is numb with the
42

combo of weight and subzero temperatures. The girl likes stomping her feet.
Poor girl. The girl has crazy eyes. They are a lovely shade of green with bits
of yellow flowing through them like lightning. The girl prods and nudges
me. "Write more," she says. "No! I will not!" My hand is tired. And this
journal is upside down.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Happy Birthday to Ashley (in 17 days) 17 in 17, ha! Today we went to
some old city that was very beautiful but the best part was lunch and
learning about the Druz religion which as very interesting. Lunch was by far
the best meal we've had the entire trip. Ok, so now we're all going to the
family weekend. I'm going to rest and eat McDonalds and that about it. Ok,
bye!
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/6. Before this trip started, I was upset about the social scene because only
one person I was close with was coming to Israel with me. Now that it's a
little over a week into the trip, though, and we're all going to visit family or
friends for the weekend, I'm upset because I'm going to be away from the
other campers for more than a day. Somehow everyone managed to become
amazingly close to people they'd never met until this trip in only a week,
and still have 4 to go. I've lost the timid attitude I began with and I'm having
the time of my life out here. I wish everyone cold go through such an
awesome experience.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
7/6 Group 2. I think it's kind of funny how we're more excited about getting
to do laundry more than anything right now! I know I definitely am!

I truly believe that this trip came at the right time. I really needed to be
away from home now! I feel like I'm surrounded with the right laid back,
serious, funny, great people here! I honestly wouldn't change anything about
the people. The program's been fun especially for me - confronting fears -
being underground. I don't know if being underground in the cave will
permanently change me, but I know that I felt safe with these people.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Israel has been "the bomb diggity" so far. I've seen beauty, destruction, and
learned about our history and that of our country. We've been rushing
43

around, maybe too much… but I think we have to if we want to see it all.
Tova
------------------------------------------------------------------------
We went to Tzfat, the city of the Kaballah. I learned a lot about light blue,
my favorite color, which Tzfat is painted. The sky looks blue but when you
grab it there's nothing there. The ocean looks blue, but when you grab it, it's
see through. This is like G-d, G-d is everywhere but can't be seen and isn't
tangible. Tzfat is painted light blue to be protected by G-d from evil. It was
so interesting. Emily Berkman.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Since I was used to waking up early, Iwoke up at 8 in the morning today
even though I am tired. It is so Americanized here. They have MTV, VH1,
and who wants to be a millionaire with Hebrew questions. The values are in
shekels though. Anyway, everyone here tries to copy the American styles. It
is kinda funny. The cantalope is yellow and people here eat chocolate on
their bread for breakfast like everyday. There are these giant chicken nugget
like things that are everywhere. They are good. Every meal at the places the
trip had us go to has corn.

Israel is sort of like the United States, just it is much more beautiful and
everyone prefers to speak Hebrew to English. No, I have not seen any
terrorists! The media makes a big deal of everything in America. It is not so
violent. Just in certain areas by some of the borders it is violent. It is hot
here. Jerusalem's weather is like Danville's but everywhere else it is hotter
that I have been to. The Mediterranean Sea is gorgeous and hiking in 2000
year old water caves built under the old city of Jerusalem was the scariest
and most amazing thing I have ever done!!! The Wailing Wall was
interesting and it's cool to see all the name brands here with Hebrew
writing. I bought a Hebrew CocaCola shirt.

By the way, the music here is the same. From Eminem to the Backstreet
Boys, they listen to the same stuff as us but they have some good Israeli
singers, too! Anyway, I am staying in this cute little community with only
300 families for the weekend. This was our free weekend to visit family,
friends, or chill at discos in Tel Aviv. Since we are going to go to discos in
44

Tel Aviv later, I thought it would be cool to see what living in an Israeli
home is like. Well, it is similar to living in an American home. Anyway, I
have seen the Lebanese border and the Jordanian border from about 20 ft
away. In fact where I am staying now is on the border territory claimed
from the 6 day war.

Yesterday I ate in a Muslim restaurant! They have good food! If you ever go
to a Muslim restaurant eat the thing that sorta looks like pizza!! We have
had discussions with people who live in the Golan Heights. They have a
democratic government in Israel. Right now about 70% of the people think
we should give up the beautiful Golan Heights to Syria with the 18000 Jews
living there who will have to move if that happens. They feel that it is worth
it because it may bring about peace with Syria. Personally, I am not so sure
if it is worth it because Syria does not even want this land for any reason
other than it is land and they just want more land for more power. I think
that they would just see Israel as weak and keep trying to get more territory.
Israel needs this land because Israel has a drought and the Golan Heights
contains 30% of the countries water! Everyone agrees though that if it
would ensure peace, they would give up the beautiful Golan Heights. I just
hope that if Israel gives up the Golan Heights, that there is finally peace
between the two countries!

There is not really that much of a war between the two countries, when they
say peace they mean kind of like the US and Russia, like they want people
to be able to communicate freely and be able to visit both countries and if
Israelis could go through Syria, they would not have to fly over the
Mediterranean to get to Europe, but they could drive! Anyway, as they say,
2 Jews:3 opinions. Jerusalem used to be a part of Rome so eating in an
ancient Roman restaurant was great! We wore togas and everything! e-mail
from Katie
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am here on a Kibbutz. I got roomed with Ashleigh Ordin and an Israeli girl
who is 16. They have internet access and a lot of free time here so I might
check my e-mail a lot here! Tel Aviv was nice. I just arrived on the Kibbutz.
45

I saw the place where Rabin was shot yesterday. That was very sad. I even
saw the place where the Israeli Declaration of Independence was signed!
That was interesting, but we were tired. I got a henna tattoo in Tel Aviv.
Don't worry Mom, it only lasts two weeks or so and it was painted on. It is
stars around my ankle. Israel is very beautiful. We went to a beach on
Sunday that looks like a Hawaiian beach, but they have a jellyfish problem
right now, so a lot of people got stung by jellyfish. It was on the
Mediterranean. There are about 20 other people from the trip on this
Kibbutz since we were divided into six groups. The trip has been very fun
and this week has been extremely important in Israel.

By the way, I survived a week in the Israeli army, the Gadna!! It was soooo
hard! We worked 17 hours per day!! We woke up at 5 AM and went to bed
around 11PM! We shot M16s and you guys better be nice to me because it
turns out I have extremely good aim. ;) We are by the Sea of Galilee here. It
is very pretty. We have been here before, but being on a Kibbutz is very
different than being on a hostel. Today I went to the West Bank! For those
of you who don't know, this is a land with many Arabs and Jews that is not
part of Israel or Palestine, but under Israeli military control. This week Ehud
Barak, Bill Clinton, and Arafat are deciding on a peace agreement in Camp
David so everyone here is very anxious to hear the results!!

The kibbutz is really nice. The girl I am staying with likes the same kind of
music as me and has a Nick Carter poster on her wall. She speaks English,
as do most people here. I met this really nice girl named Julie, but
unfortunately she will never be in my group. I'm sad that I will not be in Tel
Aviv again, but the Kibbutz seems very cool! Talk to everyone later and e-
mail me!~Katie

We went to a disco the first night we got on the kibbutz, it's really cool, we
are in a gated kibbutz and it is nice and the people are very friendly and they
have a very, very nice swimming pool. We hiked to the sea of Galilee which
is gorgeous. We slept outside at a waterslide park on the beach!! I didn't get
much sleep but we got to go on the waterslides this morning. Now I'm back
on the kibbutz...talk to everyone later! e-mail from Katie
46

http://www.bootsnall.com/travelogues/andrea/14.shtml

By Andrea & Dale Johnson

Krazy Kuta

"TRANSPORT? MASSAGE? BRAID YOUR HAIR? SARONG? TOE RING?

PINEAPPLE? HASHISH?"

The endless barrage of hawkers accosted us while we walked down the

street attempting to dodge them, puddles, and the screeching motor
scooters that zoomed by perilously close. Welcome to Indonesia and it's
most popular tourist destination, Kuta Beach.

Travellers have a love/hate relationship with this city of sin. Backpacker

facilities are plentiful and cheap - rooms average only US$4.50 a night,
tasty wood oven pizzas and a large Bintang beer cost just a buck each.
The rupee has remained devalued since the Asian economic crisis - the
average Indonesian worker earns only US$25 a month. It's a place that
encourages excesses; buying too much from the hundreds of surf,
handicraft, and silver shops that line every street; eating and partying 'til
sunrise at the packed restaurants, bars, and clubs; surfing too long at the
easily accessible, consistent beach breaks that are polluted with sewage
that eventually makes everyone sick.

Yet in the middle of this chaos, pieces of traditional Balinese culture still
survive. Every morning Hindus place offering baskets of food, incense,
and flowers at the entrance to their shops, homes, and in shrines that are
a familiar sight at every corner. Women still walk along traffic-clogged
streets carrying baskets of fruit on their heads to bring to the market or a
ceremony. Even at our hotel we enjoyed an interesting contrast watching
the owners perform an elaborate anniversary ceremony in the courtyard
while backpackers continued to wander through in their swimsuits
carrying surfboards.

An essential art Indonesians have mastered is bargaining. Westerners are

constantly targeted and usually quoted prices 10 times higher for 'tourists'
than locals. Unscrupulous 'authorized' moneychangers are everywhere.
We noticed the tip off to possible rip-off when finding posted exchange
47

rates that seemed too good to be true. On two separate occasions we

were entertained by these sneaky characters. Our first attempt to change
US$100 (which equals $1,130,000 rupees) was an example of short-
changing. Upon careful counting we noticed the agent kept adding small
bills to the pile, insisting to keep a small amount of our money for himself
for 'good luck'. Finally we were disgusted and exited to find another
moneychanger, shouting in the street, "This guy's a thief!" The second
character was much sneakier. He quickly entered an amount on his
calculator showing the total while handing over the rupees. Had we not
been suspicious we could have easily overlooked that his calculator didn't
work correctly and he 'miscalculated' the amount by 90,000 rupees in his
favor. We learned to always count our cash before leaving since 'honest'
little mistakes seem to happen frequently in Bali.

Another tourist rip off is the long arm of the law, which is always reaching
out palm turned up! Bali police set up roadblocks and target tourists in
rentals cars and motor scooters. We had been lucky enough to avoid them
for a month until getting nabbed by one of their street corner outposts.
We were ushered into an outhouse-sized office and informed of our
violations. No international driver's license (fine $50,000 rupees),
impeding traffic - we stopped at a red light, getting in the way of those
running it! (fine $30,000 rupees), and running a red light because we
stopped after the painted line (fine $40,000 rupees). We now owed
$120,000 rupees in fines which were payable in front of a judge at the
city courthouse...OR the helpful police could take care of our fine for us
(wink, wink) if we would just give them the money.

Fortunately, before we had entered the office I quickly removed all but
$51,000 rupees from my pocket and hid it. During our interrogation we
convinced the police that this was all the money we had and plea
bargained our fine down to 'coincidentally' $51,000 rupees. As I reached
for our cash and held it up high enough for anyone passing by to see,
they excitedly pushed my hand down out of view, which I quickly lifted up
again just for the fun of it. Putting on our helmets and thanking the
officers for their help we hopped on our scooter and rode off laughing
about our 'bribery in Bali' experience. Something anyone visiting Bali can
also be guaranteed to experience is genuinely friendly, helpful, and honest
people, unfortunately it just takes some work find them.

Our real reason for basing ourselves in Kuta was to escape on daily surf
safari adventures. Thirty years ago Kuta beach was 'discovered' as a
48

surfers' Mecca; now it's overwhelmed with tourists, traffic, and hawkers, a
paradise lost. After reuniting with Jay, he showed us a secret route that
would eventually escape the busy streets and police by taking dirt paths
through plantations and cow pastures, ending up at surf spots with names
like Balangan, Nyang Nyang, Padang Padang, Impossibles, Ulu Watu, and
Dreamland. More often than not the surf was on a shallow reef break or
too big for beginners like Andrea and I, so we relaxed on the beach
watching Jay rip it up. On smaller surf days at sandy beach breaks we
managed to catch a few waves of our own.

Another easy day trip from Kuta (although we recommend spending at

least four days) is Ubud, the 'cultural center' of Bali. Stepping off the bus
in Ubud we were promptly greeted with a variety of accommodation and
transport options. I stood guard over our stuff while Andrea and Jay went
with a friendly local to check out his home stay. The Tutick house was
small (3 rooms), situated in a garden setting away from street noise,
clean, included a full breakfast, and best of all had hot showers - oooh
yeah!

Rice paddies

Ubud is known for having the best prices and selection on traditional
handicrafts, and nearby Celuk for sterling silver. Jay needed to purchase
sarongs and jewellery for his enterprising business and Andrea jumped at
the chance to act as a shopping consultant. Being outnumbered, I
reluctantly tagged along and fortunately found that Ubud offered much
more than just shopping. We spent a day on our scooters riding around
the nearby volcano and marvelling at the beautifully terraced rice paddies
that are still cultivated by hand. In the evenings we enjoyed the varied
nightlife, and splurged on an expensive dinner (US$15) that rivalled many
of our favorite restaurants at home in Portland. We also had the
opportunity to see a traditional Balinese dance show at the palace temple
that was both strange and interesting, with ornate costumes and complex
movements that we would have needed an interpreter to understand.
49

Indonesian dancers

To our surprise Ubud even had a jazz club with live music so we checked
it out and had a great time listening to the energetic band. Although
known as a tourist town, Ubud didn't have that over-run atmosphere we
dread, and was a refreshing change of pace.

If you really want to get away from it all, head to the Gili Islands just off
the mainland on Lombok. Leaving at 5 am, we caught Kuta sleeping
while waiting for our transport. The partiers had staggered to bed, motor
scooters hadn't started their daily assault, and the tourists shops were
closed - even the hotel staff was fast asleep on the floor in front of the
reception.

Our trip to Gili Air was a 14-hour journey the cheap way (or a 3 hour
jaunt if you have extra cash). Our itinerary included a local bus, slow
ferry, another local bus and ended with an ocean-drenching small boat.
Arriving on Gili Air just after sunset, we raced to find accommodation
before dark, which we discovered wasn't easy. Locals kept saying "island
full, no rooms". Walking the sandy trail nearly around the island we found
a very rustic thatched hut that was probably the last room available so we
kicked out the mice and moved in. Tired, grumpy, and hungry we
collapsed in the heat and tried to sleep. The rooster alarm clock awoke us
early so we had breakfast and decided to search for better
accommodations, hoping that some people had checked out. Luckily we
found a newly constructed bungalow and we were the first people to stay
in it.

Relaxing in the Gili Islands

The three Gili Islands, Taranga (party island), Meno (solitude island), and
Air (a mix of both) are void of any vehicles except horse drawn carts, thus
offering us the quiet slow pace we needed. Andrea and I spent our days
sneaking into the nearby expensive hotel pool (rooms US$28 per night),
laying in our hammock, recovering from a bout of Bali belly, reading,
50

talking, writing stories, and watching sunsets from the unique individual
eating platforms.

People may wonder why would we need to relax since we're travelling for
14 months. Fun as it's been, travelling cheaply, doing our own planning,
and trying to stay healthy takes work. Recharged after eight days we
moved on, using the same transport method in reverse. Our total round
trip transport cost was US$18 dollars for two. I guess we got exactly what
we paid for and more.

Reflections on the Terrorist Attacks

At first it was hard to believe that the pictures of the World Trade Center
burning were on the news, not just scenes from another action-thriller
movie that typically plays on the televisions at every bar, restaurant and
hotel on Phi Phi Island to attract tourists. But on the evening of
September 11th, 2001, in Southern Thailand (it was the morning of Sept.
11th in America), everyone stopped what they were doing and watched
the news in amazement.

Dale and I happened to walk into a cyber-cafe shortly after the W.T.C.
was hit; the local news was playing live footage from NYC and our Thai
friends tried to explain what had happened by translating the commentary
into English. Of course initially nothing made sense to us. "A plane hit the
W.T.C? What do you mean it wasn't an accident? Four planes were
hijacked? Terrorists are attacking America?!" we questioned. Only after
seeing footage of the plane striking the second tower, an image that is
now burned into all our minds, did we begin to understand the magnitude
of the situation.

Shock turned into panic for me when the Thais began to ask me if my
family was ok. I suddenly remembered that my parents were scheduled to
fly to Toronto that week, and I couldn't recall what date their flight was or
if it had a stopover in NYC. Who would have thought the tables would be
turned, that my parents - who worry about something happening to us
while travelling abroad - could in fact be the ones more in danger?

Frantically I emailed my parent's business, and thankfully Lisa, their office

manager, replied almost immediately that my parents were ok (their flight
wasn't until Sept. 13th). A few hours later, after watching the English
51

version of CNN, I was able to talk to my Mom on our cell phone. I don't
know what I would have done without the modern conveniences of email,
cell phone, and 24/7 CNN.

In the aftermath of this disaster, family and friends have been emailing us
asking many difficult questions. "What is it like experiencing these events
abroad - are we safe?" is the most common inquiry. Like we imagine
everyone at home, we've been glued to the television for several hours
each day. We've been uplifted by stories of heroism and devastated by
pictures of destruction.

We saw footage from countries around the world playing the National
Anthem and observing a moment of silence, which brought tears to our
eyes. The President's address, Tribute to Heroes music telethon, and
memorial service at Yankee Stadium has been deeply moving for us as
Americans, but also for the local Thai Buddhists and Muslims, and fellow
Jewish and Hindu travelers that have been watching TV alongside us.

Being abroad during the terrorist attacks has exposed us to a wider scope
of their effects. People of different nationalities and backgrounds have
been united instead of divided by this tragedy in a common wish for
peace. Everyone we've been in contact with has been compassionate and
thoughtful towards us and we feel as safe, if not safer, here than at home.

The last time we heard shocking news about America during our travels
abroad was after the November 2000 Presidential election. "You have no
President!" the French in Bora Bora mocked, translating the French
Polynesia news report. We were embarrassed with this news, just as we
were embarrassed by the stereotypes of the "Ugly American" - loud,
insensitive, impatient, and overly materialistic. At that time we were glad
to be away from home and to have escaped the 'rat race' of our past
hectic lives. Now more than ever we miss those we love at home, are
generally proud of our fellow Americans reaction to the attacks, and are
happy to be from a country that encourages and defends freedom.

So will we change our plans to continue travelling and return home as

friends and family have asked? We will alter our travel plans when
necessary in order to remain as safe as possible. Not long ago, in June
2001, we left the Philippines after a Muslim terrorist group kidnapped
three Americans and 17 Filippinos from a ritzy resort at a nearby island.
Even though we doubted a similar terrorist attack at our popular budget
52

backpacker island (not as much potential for ransom $), we felt no need
to take unnecessary risks.

It's interesting how people from countries that are constantly exposed to
strife react to this situation in their daily lives. In a Manila cyber-café we
watched speechless as five teenagers screamed and shouted in glee while
playing an interactive video game fighting terrorists. Most Israeli travelers
we've met (both men and women) have just finished their three year
mandatory military service and will continue to serve in the military for
one month a year until the age of 45. Until recently, our generation of
Americans had been sheltered from widespread acts of terrorism hitting
home. Sadly, the reality is that there is nowhere in the world completely
safe from terrorism.

The most profoundly simple yet complex question we are often asked is
"Why do you travel?" During the course of our journey the meaning and
purpose of our travelling has continued to evolve. Admittedly we aren't on
a global crusade to save the environment or to educate and improve the
lives of the disadvantaged, although we admire the Peace Corp volunteers
we've met who work hard for these causes. Our reasons are more simple
- to escape our daily routines at home and try a different way of life, to
spend more quality time together, and to hopefully become better
individuals from our experiences.

When we told others about our plans to travel for 14 months, many
people told us "You're living our dream". Older generations said they
wished that they had the same opportunities to travel when they were
young and admired our resolve to turn our dream into reality.

As many travel writers, such as Rick Steves, advocate "Travelling expands

horizons and deepens understanding of other cultures...if more people
traveled the world would be a better place". Certainly we've had the
chance to see many different cultures including a wide variety of Muslim
people in Indonesia and Malaysia. Beforehand, our only exposure to the
Islamic religion was from reading select passages of strict doctrine and
seeing footage of extremist Muslim groups on the news; now we know
that Muslims are as diverse a group as Christians.

Probably the most surprising thing we've encountered during our travels
has been the random acts of kindness from strangers. We began our trip
wary of trusting anyone, suspicious that those who were kind were just
53

trying to take advantage of us somehow. On the contrary, we've been

invited as welcome guests into the homes of people who had recently
been strangers and discovered that travel in general seems to bring out
the best in everyone.

While we understand why many Americans have recently cancelled their

plans to travel on vacation, and that many people worldwide are afraid to
fly on airplanes, it's unfortunate that the travel industry has to suffer the
consequences of the terrorist attacks. Our thoughts are often of those we
love at home and we are concerned not only for our own safety but for
the safety of those at home as well; however, we have no plans to return
immediately home.

In the book Travelers' Tales Thailand, author Steven Newman, who was
attacked and nearly killed by bandits during his solo walk around the
world, best sums up our feeling in the following passage:

"But I know that quitting anything because of fear somehow did not
seem 'right'.
To give up now would have been proof of how terrible the world is to
those so eager
To condemn it."
54

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/travelsaround2/haiti/haitijournal.htm

Home | Trip List

Haiti Journal
Back to Haiti pictures

NEW Missions Trip to Haiti

April 6 to April 13, 2002

Genesis 12:2,3 I will bless you and … all the families of the earth will be blessed
through you.

NEW Missions
PO Box 2727
Orlando, FL 32802
(407) 240-4058
email: info@newmissions.org
www.newmissions.org

A GREAT BOOK: A Stubborn Hope – George and Jeanne DeTellis (Charlie's

parents)

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

Dedication

What to bring

What to pack

TIPS

Currency
55

OUR SCHEDULE: Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday,

Friday, Saturday

HAITI FACTS and STATs: Background, Geography, People, Government,

Economy, Transportation, Military, Transnational Issues.

SONGS

Creole or "Kweyol" Language

About me: My job is a technical writer. Writing is an obsession that I have had to live
with all my life. I started journaling in the 6th grade. I limit myself to journaling only on
trips now. It’s my way of sharing the experience with everyone else on the trip so
they can enjoy the trip by reading about it again. It’s also for others who plan to go on
a similar trip. Haiti is my 74th country. I travel while I'm (relatively) young so the
journals and pictures will be my rocking chair memories.

Dedication - This log is dedicated to NEW Missions, to Dan for arranging this trip,
and to all my dear friends that I met in Haiti. I have good memories of meeting all of
you on the beach, at the shops, in the youth meeting, women’s meetings, and in
church. God bless everyone:

Yves, (Shawn) Charles, Michael, Peter, Lamartine, Bertha, Miralande, Michelle & baby,
Mitrise, Mary, Achlie, Joseph, Erlanne, Christie, Nika, Tina, Mimi, Yolene, John, Isaiah and
brother Jacques, Michelin, Jaquel, Junior, Davidson, Mike, Roobens, Louise, Olan, Elepha,
Anastasia, Flore, Frandy, Anastasie and Dimi Petit Homme, Dixon, Danicha, Antoinette, and
Piereline.

What to bring

Refer to the www.newmissions.org Web Site for lists of things that they need and
things that people need. I also observed that Haitians would like it if you brought
them:

* Hair ribbons, barrettes, pony tail holders, and nail polish for the girls.
* Underwear for boys.
56

* Wire or string, beads – to make jewelry: necklaces, bracelets.

* Paint – for decorating their sparse quarters.
* French-English dictionary.
* Wood/leather carving tools
* Cordless iron (Antique charcoal type)
* Closed shoes and socks. The kids must have closed shoe(s) to go to school.
Veronique asked a boy on the beach why he wasn’t in school and he said it was
because he didn’t have any shoes. Evidently one shoe is OK. A girl was wearing one
shoe and a sock, and one flip-flop. It looked odd but it was enough to get her in
school.
* Evaporated milk.
* Can opener (not electric - duh)
* Inner tubes for bicycles or tire repair kits and air pump.
* Batteries and flashlights.
* Clocks or radio that doesn’t need batteries or electricity.
* Cooking spices
* Bible in Creole language
* US one dollar and five dollar bills. No big denominations. Give the poorest
people Haitian money if possible. It's not easy for them to change US money.
* A small screwdriver for glasses or some wire to repair glasses. On the extra
pair of glasses that I brought, the bag was shaken so much that the screw shook
loose.
* If you bring stuff to leave here in this country, seems like a duffel bag is easier
for them to balance on their head than a suitcase. Louise left a suitcase that had
wheels. I saw the pregnant mother of her sponsored child walking outside the
Mission with the case balanced on her head!

What to pack

* Two 70-pound hard-sided (not cloth) suitcases of donations. I bought the

suitcases for $3 each at a thrift store. Duct tape them shut because they really get
knocked around. The 5-pound (cardboard) container of peanut butter in one case
crushed onto some clothes. Put all food in plastic bags. No glass.
* Buy all your clothes at a thrift store and leave them there.
* Pack everything you need to live for 2-7 days in your carry –on bag. That way
you are guaranteed to have an enjoyable trip even if your bags get lost.
* Work gloves
* If you’re going to paint - something to clean paint off your skin. (We used
kerosene)
57

* Bandana to wipe sweat, a hat for the sun. Make sure it fits good – it’ll blow off
when you ride in the back of trucks.
* On luggage tags – put your work address. Don’t ever give out your home
address or phone. They are always looking for a contact in the U.S.
* Water cleaner pills
* Ear plugs – no matter how soundly you sleep. Unless you enjoy hearing
roosters ALL night.
* If you're good at skits, storytelling, or puppets, then bring those. Haitians love
any form of entertainment. Make it simple because it will be translated into Creole.

TIPS

* Drink lots of water, but: stop drinking it after dinner so hopefully you won't have
to get up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom.
* Bring spray sunscreen. It is so much easier to apply over the bug poison on
your skin and you'll need it if you get your hair braided. Braiding costs $5 in Haiti (it's
1 US$ per braid, or about $US100 (Jamaica) or 200 (Turks and Caicos) to have your
whole head done in other countries.
* Beware if you wear (finger or toe) nail polish. I don’t wear it, but I am told that
the bug spray affects it.
* When you arrive in Haiti you fill out immigration form and a yellow form. They
take the immigration form in customs. Don't lose the yellow paper. You need it to exit
the country when you leave.

OUR SCHEDULE

April 6 to April 13, 2002

Saturday
Afternoon Arrive at Airport
Evening DinnerSpaghetti with meatballs and fresh mangos.
7 p.m. Orientation and Greeting
9:30 p.m. Generator off
Sunday
7 am Breakfast French toast with great homemade syrup
7:30 am Morning devotion
58

8:30 am Leave for church at Masson

12 p.m. Lunch Baked chicken with a very good sauce.
3:30 pm Preparation for week meeting. Hair braiding at 1 so, preparation was
moved to 3:30
4 pm Swimming
5:30 pm DinnerHam and cheese (from Wisconsin) sandwiches. Chocolate cake.
Dishes: Jim, Jolene, Barb
7 pm Haitian culture and Creole class
9 pm Generator off
Monday
7 am Breakfast Cereal and fresh fruit, and hard boiled eggs
7:30 am Morning devotion Speaker: Cliff
8:30 am Mission tour
9:30 Sort and bundle supplies, office and clinic tasks, or paint school benches I did office
work.
12 pm Lunch beets and cucumber –tomato salad banana bread
1 pm Village ministry walk up the river - do skits
5:30 pm DinnerMacaroni and (yummy Wisconsin) cheese. Fresh fruit salad. Cinnamon
bread dessert.
Dishes: Dan & Emily
7 pm History of Haiti
9 pm Generator off
Tuesday
7 am Breakfast Pancakes
7:30 am Morning devotion Shawn Budovic
8:30 am School physicals and ministry at Signeau School (all day) pack lunch. I
painted school benches.
12 pm Lunch Fried Red Snapper, yams, rice and bean gravy.
1 pm Continue with morning ministries
4:30 pm Shops open
5:30 pm DinnerDinner was beef stir fry, rice, brownies

Dishes: Cliff and Tina

7 pm Youth group
9 pm Generator off
Wednesday
7 am Breakfast
7:30 am Morning devotion Mary Budovic
8:30 am Market visit in Leogane / High School tour / Chapel service Speaker: Cliff
12 pm Lunch Tuna fish sandwiches
1 pm Gifts for children
59

1:30 pm Village ministry

3:30 pm Lasalle Women's Meeting Speaker: Laura
5:30 pm DinnerHam and (Wisconsin) cheese sandwiches, lettuce, mayo. Fresh mango
juice punch. Creme Brulee for dessert.

Dishes: Adam and Tiffany

7 pm Worship at Bord Mer Speaker: Dan
9 pm Generator off
Thursday
7 am Breakfast
7:30 am Morning devotion Rachel DeTellis
8:30 am School physicals in Signeau (AM only). Cement pour at Bord Mer
School Ministry -- Birey I tried to help with cement
12 pm Lunch with sponsored children Rice and beans and that great "sauce" and fried
chicken.
1:30 pm Cement work continues or free time
3:30 pm Women's meeting in Neply Speaker: Tiffany
4:30 Shops open I kept shops open till 6.
5:30 pm DinnerPizza, salad, coconut bars.

Dishes: Suzanna
7 pm Movie night
9 pm Generator off
Friday
7 am Breakfast Pancakes
7:30 am Morning devotion Dan Merrefield
8:30 am Village or school ministry. Finish bench painting or clinic tasks. School
physicals in Signeau (AM only) I did school physicals. There was also a boat ride this
morning.
12 pm Lunch
1 pm Free time
4 pm Shops open Barter day
5:30 pm DinnerHamburgers, BBQ beans, great potatoes.

Dishes: Laura
7 pm Worship
9:30 pm Generator off
Saturday
5 am Breakfast Cereal
Morning Return to airport

Currency
60

Haitian currency is the gourdes, pronounced "goood". Exchange rate is 26 gourdes

per one US dollar.

5 gde equals 1 Haitian dollar, so: 100 gourdes = $H20 = $US4

Exchange rate was 23.761 (in 2001), 22.524 (2000), 17.965 (1999), 16.505 (1998),
17.311 (1997), 15.093 (1996)

Saturday

Our plane left at 8:45 am from Atlanta so we had to be at the airport at 6. Uugh. I’m
not a morning person. The Groff’s were so gracious to invite Laura and I to spend the
night and Kirsten drove us to the airport. So there we stood in curb-side check-in with
our huge heavy suitcases for 20 minutes and come to find out that you had to stand
in the LONG line inside for International travel. Yeow. We were starting to run short
on time considering the LONG security line to get into the concourse. Well, we made
it just fine. I met some nice nurses and doctors headed to Haiti also. We stopped in
Miami, then on to our final destination. I had a good feeling about this trip.

Arrive in the airport and Shawn from NEW Missions rounded up everybody with
matching T-shirts. We waltzed through customs. Some of our suitcases were put in
our bus and others we left sitting on the curb outside the airport. Dan seemed calm
about the people in charge of getting them to the Mission and sure enough, they
made it just fine.

I have found that the most anxious part of every trip is getting there with your
luggage. I didn’t journal anything until we were in the bus driving to the Mission in
Haiti. I started with:

"Driving through Port au Prince right now. I can’t stand it, I have to write. "

What inspired me to start writing was a man in the gas station. The bus pulled into
the station and stopped. I looked out my window, and sitting on the ground is this guy
trying to repair the inner tube of his bicycle. He grabbed the tube around the hole and
he was tying string tight around the hole so maybe air wouldn’t leak out. It made a
bump in the inner tube. He had lots of bumps.
61

Driving along looking at this country, I have to say that this is the poorest place that I
have ever seen, and I’ve seen a few places in my life time... There is tons of gravel
and piles of deteriorated, falling apart buildings. People live in and on rubble. The
quality of the streets is awful. And yes, Dan, they should call the county to patch up
some of the potholes. If only if was that easy. Nothing is easy in this country. Dan
said that some streets get so bad that they dig deep ditches so no one can travel on
the street. I makes government notice the bad situation so maybe they will do
something to fix it.

Seems like other places that I’ve been to have always had some degree of
acknowledgement that tourists bring money, so they make places where tourists can
go. This country has not, or rather does not, have the resources, to accommodate
the tourists. I’m sure they know that if they had a nice market, a bus load might stop
and spend some money. They don’t seem to even have the capacity to provide for
themselves, much less, provide for tourists. I’m sure there places hidden away from
"all this" where people with money can enjoy the good life. There’s certainly no good
life here.

The bus pauses in traffic and I finally see the first sign of entrepreneurs preying on us
– a guy is selling water in plastic bags. It’s the Culligan man! There’s about one cup
in each bag. It looks cold – quite a feat in this environment.

All I see is rubble-laden grimy streets. I look closely at the debris and I see flattened
plastic bottles and shoe soles. These people have lost their souls (soles)!

We are traveling on BJJ Dessalines street. There are utility poles lining the streets
giving the appearance that nights are bright and bustling.

A tattered sign says "Sur Internet" It means "on Internet". It hangs on a shack. Yes, a
cyber café in a shack. More signs:

Chateau Funeraire and Morgue

Cyber cafe

Le Fournesol

Traitmend de Text

Photographie
62

Photocopie Plastification

3+2 bank

Lots of "Pharmacie" and "Clinique" medical signs. These signs are painted on
buildings that are very secure with locked doors. There is a small window where you
buy the prescriptions. If you go to a hospital here, someone must bring you food and
medicine. Family members have to get the prescription from the doctor, then go fill it
and give it to the patient.

We’ve been on this bus an hour. We’re in Carrefours now – the outskirts of Port au
Prince. I’ve seen very few bicycles so far. I just saw the first motor bike.

I can’t compare this place to anywhere else. It’s on it’s own and in a different league.
In a whole new category of economic despair.

There a sign that says "Gressier". Maybe that's another town. We are leaving the city
and driving along the ocean. The water looks nice. There are people swimming
(bathing?) too. Very pleasant temperature today. Maybe 85.

Every part of this country that I see is overtaken by poorness. There are many of
incomplete structures that at one time I’m sure had hopes of grandeur. But no, they
stand deserted, baking in the sun, and forgotten. It was not meant to be. There are
many shacks around that people resort to living in instead. Bunches of banana trees,
then another incomplete structure. There is an occasional cow tied to a stake in the
ground. There is a constant smell of charcoal burning.

The despair, I hope I find hope too.

We arrive at NEW Missions and what a contrast. What a wonderful contrast. It looks
incredibly comfortable. There are five of us girls in this building with one bathroom
with shower and water that we can drink! I can brush my teeth in the sink! What
luxury! Each bed has a mosquito net.

Dinner bell rang. I'm starving. We had spaghetti with meatballs and fresh mangos.
Delicious.

After dinner we had an orientation meeting led by Charlie.

NEW Missions people: Charlie and Rachel with Nathan, Jeremy, Carita (means "My
Love" in Italian. Also Shawn and Mary with Shawn, Ryan, and Ashley (about 13)
63

Our groups:

Wisconsin: Cliff, Derrick, and Tina. Jolene, Barb and Jim.

Virginia: Adam and Tiffany

Canada: Madeline and Veronique

Georgia: Dan and Emily. Louise, Stevie, and Christi (9). Laura and me (Suzanna).

14 people visiting. Nice small group. They can handle 40 at time here.

Haiti is a "hard core battlefield".

The Leogane Plane is about 5 miles by 10 miles big. There are beautiful mountains
hovering high over us, not far away. The NEW Missions ministry continues to grow
throughout the plane.

Haiti is a "5th world country". OK, this is something I've never understood is this
ranking label. So I assume United States is a 1st world country. There are many
other "2nd world countries". Then there are "3rd world" and here is a "5th world" ?
Charlie explained that Haiti does not have the resources and even if it did have, the
country dose not have the capacity to organize the resources to their benefit. That is
a problem.

In Haiti there is "crisis management". But, Charlie said "you can take the situation
and take the bad out of it". We are all servants.

5 Haitian dollars equals one U.S. dollar. When Charlie first came here, it was equal.

GREAT BOOK: A Stubborn Hope – George and Jeanne DeTellis (Charlie's parents)
64

Taxes: There is Federal withholding tax and 6 percent Social Security tax. Charlie
matches another 6 percent.

Haitians can own land. There is no property tax.

Transportation: Mitsubishi Jeep, Mercedes Jeep (maybe 10 in the country). Pay

$30,000 for a work truck, $40,000 for a Land Cruiser.

Diesel gas is $US1.20 a gallon.

Syrians control the grocery stores .

I heard that to get married, a man must offer the girl a roof, a bed, and a table.

In the city, 10 percent are infected with AIDS, in the country only 5 percent.

I drank a lot of water at dinner. I hope it goes through me before I go to sleep cause
getting up at night with a flashlight with this skeeter ("mosquito" for you Northerners)
net will be difficult. The generator is on till 9:30 tonight. It goes off at 9 every other
night.

Sunday

Note to self: Be reverent and humble before God and others. I can really learn from
this experience and these people an. Emily and Christi sparkle. I can see it in their
eyes.

I have such a different feeling here. This is a nice first morning. The earplugs didn't
cover up the roosters crowing. Why are they up so early? I think they started at 2
a.m., then they stop. Just as you are dozing off to sleep again, they start crowing
again. They stop around 6:30 when you're getting up. Go figure. I put on a skirt, slip
and top. I sure never thought I'd be doing this.

Breakfast is at 7 a.m. We had French toast with great homemade syrup made with
their brown sugar and vanilla extract. I remember Saturday mornings when we were
little, Dad would make a big pot of homemade syrup and pancakes. I digress.

Morning devotion by Cliff.

Louise is our appointed "choir director". She led us in a couple songs.

65

Proverbs 3:15. Trust in the Lord with all your heart. Don't lean on my understanding.
Acknowledge Him always. He will make my path straight.

8:30 load up in the truck to go to morning church services at Masson. It was about 3
miles away. We were in the back of a "dancing" truck. All of us pile in the back - we
squished Christi on the end and she almost bounced off a couple times. We drove
through the local village of Neply. They called out for candy as we drove by. Little
children were waving and yelling. Little boys with no shorts on (oh my).

Church was an experience. We arrived on "Haitian time". Not many people have
clocks here, so everyone arrives around the time it's supposed to start. A man was
preaching up front. A lady escorted our group in and directed us to some benches on
theright. On the left were lots and lots of children. With a couple of adults. All the
adults were on the right.

Our group had to go up to the front. I really felt welcome there. They weren't trying to
make us uncomfortable by doing that. I got the feeling they were interested in these
odd people visiting their service. Louise led us in a song (in English). Then they
wanted us to introduce ourselves and say something. OK, now I was uncomfortable.
Cliff was first. He was great. Then Laura, who said everything that I wanted to say so
I just said something like I was glad that they let us worship with them. We finally got
to sit down.

Charlie gave the sermon. He mentioned Phil 2:8 to humble yourself. I felt that this
morning. It was the first thing I wrote today. The whole service was a special time to
share with them. To be there and worship the same God in different languages.

Lunch was baked chicken with a very good sauce.

After lunch Louise made appointments at the "salon" to get her hair done. The "Salon
d'Michelle" was outside the fence on the beach under the tree. Michelle and Nika and
others were braiding hair. Louise, Christi, Laura, Ashley and Veronique got their hair
braided. It did look so much cooler. Now they need the spray sunscreen - so the
scalp doesn't get burnt.

The beach is very nice. The water looked nice and many people from our group went
swimming. There were very few shells. The beach was mostly pebbles and black
sand. There are white sand beaches in Haiti also.
66

We had a 3:30 meeting with Rachel (Charlie's wife). She wanted to get an idea of
what we wanted to do. We signed up for Monday and Tuesday events. I was the last
person to get the sign-up sheets. I signed up for office work on Monday morning. The
clinic, sorting donated supplies, and painting were already full.

The only thing left for Tuesday was helping in the school. That was the only thing that
I knew I definitely did not want to do. That’s why I had such an uncomfortable, no,
bad experience in the Dominican Republic. I knew that I could not stand up in front of
a bunch of kids and entertain them. I did not want to be forced into that situation
again. I may be ready to do it later, but no now. So I didn’t sign up for anything
Tuesday.

Rachel had written some skits that she read to us. We were all pretty shy, and didn't
appear to want to participate. But we did a quick rehearsal to get an idea of the
message. Arnold was going to translate the message to our audience (audience
being anyone that wanted to watch).

Sunday dinner was ham and cheese (from Wisconsin) sandwiches. Chocolate cake.

Monday

Up with the roosters again. I might get used to them. Rooster would be good for
lunch…. Mmmm…

Breakfast was cereal and fresh fruit, and hard boiled eggs. The milk is powdered
milk, but they add some almond extract so it's really not that bad.

Morning devotion by Jim.

John 10 1-10. The story of the shepherd.

I learning that Grilling out is "Frying out".

8:30 meet for a tour of the mission complex. His house was built in 1983. It was
multi-purpose building: clinic, school, missionary housing. Charlie and Rachael live
there now with their three children: Nathan, Jeremy, and Corita. Shawn and Mary
also live on the compound with their kids Shawn, Ryan, and (Princess) Ashley - I
write that cause she explained that her heritage is in Lithuania. There is a castle from
her royal Budovic family there. I told her that I had been to Vilnius and it's a beautiful
city. Anyway. The other full time missionaries Scott and Tania with Tarin, Morgan
and Tia were away in the states.
67

Before the house was built, they lived in tents. There were 15 tents and they had to
bring water in from other wells. They spent $US 3000 to drill a well to 105 feet and it
didn't work. Just mud and yuk. Then they prayed and Mennonites drilled another well
180 feet down. They hit sand then rock (good sign), then fresh drinking water that
gushed up. Now they have plenty of fresh water - the sustenance (along with Jesus)
of life. There are about 5 or 6 other Artesian wells on the Leogane plane.

The well supplies water for the whole mission compound. We can fill our water bottle
from the tap and take a shower every night! Such luxury.

Charlie walked us over to the school buildings and the warehouse. This huge
building is usually full of food, but not this year. Last year they would normally have
8000-10,000 sacks. Today there was one pallet of beans, one pallet of rice and one
pallet of oil.

The mission serves about 4000 hot meals a day. They are really struggling to get
food this year. The U.S. has cut all supplies to Haiti. Some political move which only
hurts the people. Charlie was working on some contacts in Europe and Canada that
could help supply some food. He has to buy all the food now.

After the tour, we went off to do the tasks that we signed up for yesterday. I signed
up for office work on Monday morning. Emily and I sorted the NEW Mission letters to
the kids. There were about a thousand that we put in numerical order. Then we
copied (wrote) names from printed cards to what looked like a school roll call. Some
"different" names that we were writing:

Torcolsky, Mackenson, Glishmith, Bedler, Gavel, Widlande, Rwidleine,Richarleson,

Perterline, Yslande, Wiolmarlie, ijuelisone, Elange Love, Chyline, Woodjiny, Ymmaculeuse
Zizi, Voinel, Olbichou, Passiondinio, and Frannenestha.

Other people did things like sorting the donated items, bundling them into packs. 112
of them. Ashley and Stevie sorted through the files to organize the information on the
kids who were and were not in the organization anymore. Others painted benches.
These were school benches that they built. Picnic table style but with seats only on
one side.

Lunch was the best fried Red Snapper, yams, rice and bean gravy.

At 1, no 1:30 we piled into the truck for a "mission walk". Charlie drove 2 miles to a
place where we could drive down into the river bed, then he drove about 5 miles up
68

the "river" as we bounced around in back. The river bed was about 50 yards wide
and the water at the widest was 6 feet wide, sometimes only a slow trickle. Not deep
at all, in fact he drove through the deepest water with no trouble. So here we are
winding our way back and forth across this river bed along this "road". We reach the
"dam." It may have held back water at one time, it was all stones and trickle of water
now. There were beautiful mountains about a mile away. So we stop the truck an 18
of us pile out. That's when Charlie told us that the truck gets stuck easily.

We walked on the dirt road/path where people live. Charlie stops to talk to people. As
short-term missionaries, we are there to support Charlie. We are there to support
him. We seemed out of place, but welcomed. People there hadn’t seen a group like
that before, that’s for sure.

Charlie stopped at a small booth where a man was sitting. He was selling lottery
numbers. He was not a Christian because he thought what he was doing may be
thought of as bad in God's eyes. Charlie explained to him that it didn’t matter, he
could still accept the Lord and still be saved. We passed a very ramshackled
building. It had a sign – It was an Anglican Church. Tattered chairs (they could sure
use some wood glue). There were many Christians in the village already. A crowd
started gathering and Charlie suggested that we perform the skit that Rachel showed
us the day before. Perform! No way! How embarrassing. OK, put that aside and just
go with it. Have fun.

I stepped in to be the person that handed out money to try to get into heaven. I sure
never thought I’d be doing that! Christi was the "gatekeeper" who wouldn't let me in
heaven. Cliff played a great Jesus and Tina was the star of the show with her
performance. The people loved the skits. We made them laugh. Arnold explained to
them in Creole what we were doing and the meaning behind it. It went over well. I
was surprised.

After the "show" we walked further down the road. In the middle of nowhere, there
was a lady selling soda. Charlie paid $H10 (~$US2) and we got a couple bottles of
cold Coca Cola, and some Haitian soda. How in the world did she transport those
glass bottles to this remote place and they were cold. Amazing.

We found our way back to the river through peoples "yards". They sure do keep their
dirt clean and tidy around their houses. I saw the smallest baby goat, maybe 12
inches high. We walked through corn and cane fields. We passed a man on a horse.
We ended up about half a mile from the truck so we walked up the river bed, over the
dam to the truck. Driving back over the dam was fun. The truck tilted some and we
let out a little yell, but we were fine.

We got back at 5:30 for a dinner: beef stir fry, rice, brownies (yummy)
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7 pm evening time. Louise had prepared some songs for us to sing, but instead
Adam brought the guitar and started playing and singing. I didn't know most of the
songs so I just listened.

Charlie gave us a short lesson the History of Haiti.

* Haiti means "mountains" or "high country".

* Haitians won their independence (from the French) in 1804. New years Day is
their independence day.
* There are violent fighting throughout the country. Napoleon sent 40,000 men
to try to get Haiti back. Half died. When their ship was arriving, Haitians burned the
town so they didn’t have any place to live to survive when they landed. After their
independence, they "removed" the white people everywhere in the country.
* Government is one of the main problems in Haiti. It is not representative of the
people.
* About 20 percent are Christian.
* The devil appears to have control over some parts of Haiti.
* 50 percent of the children are not able to go to school.
* The average Haitian woman has six children.
* 50,000 Haitians are allowed into the United States every year. There is an
eight year wait but you can only get in if you have a connection with a family in the
U.S.
* Land in Haiti costs more for foreigners. Lease a parcel of land for $US60 for
maybe 3 years. The cost really depends on the person.

Also see the end of this journal for more very interesting FACTS and STATS on Haiti.

Tuesday

Morning devotion by Shawn.

John 3:16-17 God so loved the world that he sent his only son.

Matt 28: 19-20 Go and make disciples of all the nations.

"Jesus does not send the equipped. He equips those who go."
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After the devotion, we went off to do our assigned tasks. I got my work gloves, sweat
bandana and helped paint the school benches. They used red paint yesterday. We
had yellow (jeune) and green paint today. You have to get in awkward positions to
paint so it gets all over your clothes and skin. I’m so glad I packed work gloves. If you
weren’t careful, you could get covered in paint. They were building the benches
faster that we could paint them.

We took a break for lunch - Tuna fishes sandwiches.

After lunch, back to more painting. We were working in the warehouse which was
supposed to be full of food. The kitchen was next door. A black man came over and
we talked some. He was teaching me some Creole words and I was teaching him
English words. I was painting while we talked. I had him point out places where I
missed and I would say "mesi" (thank you in Creole) then immediately paint the
missed spot. I’m sure that was the first time that he could direct a white girl. At least it
gave him a story to tell later. Like here I am telling the story to you.

At 4:30 the shops opened. A "shop" is a blanket or tarp spread over the dirt and
covered with whatever items they can sell. NEW Missions has done a good job
policing the shops. Dan said when he first came here the shops were out of hand.
They had them set up all the time and constant yelling at your to some to their shop.
It was such a turn off and they didn’t understand that. It’s still a horrifying experience
to be surrounded by yelling people. They are so desperate to sell, desperate for the
money. I think it was Scott, before Shawn, who explains to them (the "shopkeepers")
the rules that that will help them sell more.

Be courteous. Don't crowd or harass us, or pull us and if we walk away they have to
let us go. It’s a very disconcerting process/ situation. There are NO tourists here in
this country. [Charlie said the country has the wrong name.] They have no idea how
to get us to buy. If they are courteous and kind, then maybe we'll buy.

I really don’t need anything, but I can’t look at it like that. If I buy something, then they
can eat for a month. It may be, no, it probably is the only money they get, until the
next missionaries arrive here. Many said they go all the way to Port-au-Prince (P-au-
P) to buy this stuff to sell to us. There were a lot of trinket boxes, small square,
round, medium size that say Haiti on top. Since there are no tourists, there’s no one
to buy this stuff so they make very few souvenirs, so there's not much selection of
items to choose from.

I bought a rock from Charles for 5, no 6 dollars. Now here’s the story. Sunday on the
beach he told me he could scratch my name in a stone. I expressed some interest
and he ran away and brought back a pen and index card. I wrote SUZANNA. He
wrote $5. I said OK. Come to find out that I should NOT have done that. Big oops.
71

NEW Missions does not want us to buy anything outside of official shop hours. Tues,
Thurs, Fri 4:30 to 5:30. The rules are set up so they don’t skip school to set up shop.

So Monday morning when we were doing the tour of the mission complex and
Charles finds me. It’s a nice rock but I told him that I can’t buy it till shops open Tues
at 4:30. I asked him to scratch HAITI on the back for an extra dollar. He used a razor
blade. They need some other carving tools to make these souvenirs for us.

At official "shop time" Shawn, Mary, and Dan escorted us outside the gate to the
shops. If they harassed any of us, Shawn asked us to all agree to leave immediately.

Charles escorted me over to his shop immediately. I paid him for my rock, then he
really wanted me to buy something else. Now that’s a tough one. There are so many
people there selling and you want to help as many as possible. I had already bought
something from him, so I wanted to move on and look at other shops. I ended up just
looking and not buying anything else. It is always a somewhat unnerving experience
that I have endured in many a third world country and everybody handles it
differently. I remember those little boys in Cambodia last December – they force you
to take something in your hand, then they wouldn’t take it back – they were required
to bring money home.

Victoria made the mistake of mentioning that she wanted a tea set. Pandemonium
set in. Six sets emerged out of nowhere. She was crowded and squished with people
shouting and yelling prices at her. It was getting out of hand. Shawn observed until
he determined that Victoria needed some help to get out of there. She didn’t buy any.
Their selling tactics backfired and they didn’t sell anything. Maybe Thursday she’ll get
one if things are calmer on the shop-front.

After shopping, dinner. Macaroni and (yummy Wisconsin) cheese. They had a
fabulous FRESH fruit salad. We have a different dessert every lunch and dinner.
Cinnamon bread this time. The banana bread is delish too. I also love the beets and
cucumber –tomato salad.

Tuesday night. 7 p.m. I’m sitting here under the mango tree. The generator is running
and the lights are on. There is a youth meeting going on in the Dining hall. "Youth"
meaning High School, which means any age. They are singing in English and in
Creole praising Jesus. They are not allowed to talk about their shops at all (but Nika
did ask me for my necklace…)

After they finished their games, I joined them for the Bible Study. Each person was
called to the front one at a time to recite the verse they had memorized week.
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Galations 5:22-23 The fruit of the spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness,
goodness, faithfulness, gentleness, and self-control. Against such things there is no
law.

Then they were given another verse to learn for next week. They also had some
homework (on paper) to help them interpret a verse. They also read and discussed
these verses:

Deu 6:5-6 Love the Lord your God with all your heart, and with all your soul and
with all your strength. These commandments that I give you today are to be upon
your hearts.

Luke 6:46 Why do you call me 'Lord, Lord' and do not do what I say.

John 14:21 Whoever has my commands and obeys them, he is the one who loves
me. He who loves me will be loved by my Father, and I too will love him and show
myself to him.

[Mike had to stand up and talk about this verse. He gets it. The love of God comes
from his heart.]

I sat across from Nika. She had a small book written in Creole: Istwa Jezi - The Story
of Jesus. As I turned the pages and tried to read the stories, Nika told me in English
what was written in the book. I was impressed. Here are some of the stories:

Senk Milmoun Manje [Lik 9:1-2, 10-17] When Jesus had called the Twelve together,
he gave them power and authority to drive out all demons and to cure diseases, and
he sent them out to preach the kingdom of God and to head the sick. ..Jesus feeds
the 5000.

Nonm Rich la [Lik 18:18-30] The Rich Ruler.

Mat 18:20 For where two or three come together in my name, there am I with them.

Lasin Senya a [Lik 22:7-20] The Last Supper.

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Pasyon e Mo [Lik 23:26, 32-34,39-47] The crucifixion and Jesus' death.

Rezireksyon an [Lik 24:1-12] The resurrection.

Gran Komisyon an [Lik 24:36-56] Jesus appears to the disciples.

Phi 3:10 - I want to know Christ and the power of his resurrection and the fellowship
of sharing in his suffering becoming like him in his death and so somehow to attain
the resurrection from the dead.

Wednesday

Mary did the morning devotion.

Phil 2:1-7 Be like -minded like Jesus. Have the same love, be one in the spirit and
purpose. Do nothing out of selfish ambition or vain conceit but in humility consider
others better than yourselves.

You should have Jesus’ attitude.

This morning we are going to the Market and to the school. I hope we don’t get too
harassed at the market. The shops last night were enough of a turn-off. We are going
to drive to an overview of the Leogane Plane - the plane is 10 miles by 5 miles.

We all loaded up in the back of the truck and headed to the Leogane Market. It was
located in "the city". Very old dilapidated buildings. We parked the truck and
arranged to meet back in an hour.

There were many practical items in this market (nothing for tourists). Food, beans,
rice, canned items, evaporated milk, chickens, some meat. wash basin, dishes, soap,
toothpaste, a couple places were selling water. I saw one man with a 6 inch square
chunk of ice in a shiny clean metal container with about 20 gallons of water. He was
selling ice water.

We walked around looking horribly out of place. Nobody paid much attention to us
because they knew they didn't really have much that we wanted to buy. A man tried
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to follow us around begging. We turned the corner and Emily made comment "That
lady was sitting on that same corner last year."

Martha (our translator) helped some people in our group purchase food for their
sponsored children that they would see tomorrow. Approximate prices were about
$H8 for about 10 pounds of rice, $H16 for about 10 pounds of beans.

I found a store across from the market that had "Rhum" (Rum). Madeline said it was
not the good kind though. Some coconut rum would be good. They can’t export it.
Cocoa would be good too, but she couldn’t find any of that either.

Charlie drove the truck up the streets crowded with a vendors selling their wares,
then onto a side street and we stopped at a very unassuming cement building.
Martha went inside and came out with a box of about 20 pounds of frozen chicken.
She later told me is was $H114.

Next on the schedule was the Chapel Service at the High School at 11 a.m. Cliff
(such a brave soul) volunteered to speak. I wonder if he knew what he was getting
himself in to. We brought a small generator, long extension cords, a huge speaker,
microphone and public address system, but they could never get it working.

It was huge building. There were about 10 people per bench (more squished onto
some benches) There are about 30 benches per side, 2 sides so about 60 benches,
so over 600 people. Looks like High School children. Pink tops and gray pleated
skirts and pants. Here we were squished onto the front two benches.

Cliff got up to speak. Arnold translated. He told a story of a fighter.

Romans 8:31-37 If God is for us, who can be against us?

Cliff proclaims: "Victory is ours through Christ who loved us."

"Jesus is a winner!" and they shout back "Amen!"

Nothing can separate us from His Love.

Let God help us fight our fights here.

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I thought it was a very effective, appropriate message. But it was such a big room.
There was a lot of talking but many did listen. Many are looking at us. An occasional
bell signal didn’t seem to affect the noise, no talking. I see why these people are
accustomed to yelling.

It feels like about 80 degrees in here. I felt a breeze through the "window". A window
is cinder blocks with a decorative pattern.

After the service, back to the Mission for lunch.

At 3:30 we walked to the village of Lasalle for a Women's Meeting. Go outside the
mission gate, turn left into the corn field and walk on the dirt path. The path veers
right, go a little further and turn left at the tree. Walk a little further and you come up
on the village. There is a 4-room school house building with the church next to it.
Rachel explained that they try to maintain the inside of the buildings more than the
outside. They can lock the building and keep the inside nice. Inside the church was
painted with a few bible pictures and verses taped to the wall.

It was about a half hour walk. Other people on the worn path too. Eight of us women
here, about 20 women from the village.

Lots of singing and praying, then we stood and introduced ourselves. Rachel
translated. I think I'm getting used to this now because I finally got up enough nerve
to say something more than just Hi. I can’t really remember what I said, something
about worshipping the same God. They said "Amen" back to it. After I sat down, I felt
a huge rush of the Holy Spirit move through my whole body. What a powerful
blessing of a feeling.

Laura volunteered to speak at this meeting. Last night she prepared how she was
going to present her testimony and message. You have to remember that this is very
different country from our country. What you say and how you say it could be very
different for it to be meaningful. For example,

You can't say saying something like "I did not go to church because I was too young
to drive to church". They couldn't relate. You'd have to change it to say "I did not go
to church when I was young because I was too young to travel the distance by
myself".

Laura did a great job of communicating her message with Rachel translating. She
said to "Remember each day not to do things my way – but to follow His way." Amen.

After the women's meeting, we walked back to the mission a different way – towards
the beach. Children ran up along side us. They walk beside you, then take your
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hand. I had two girls and Laura had a girl and (naked) boy. We just walked along
holding hands smiling at each other. She did finally get up enough nerve to ask me
for a dollar.

When we got to the beach, we said goodbye to them. The tide was up so we got our
feet wet in the surf. Wet shoes and sox and the bottom of my skirt. Oh yeah, I love
these long skirts that we have to wear. They are a lot more comfortable than pants. I
bought this one at the thrift store, and I intended on leaving it, but I really like it so it
may come back with me to Atlanta. I think I’ll do a lot more shopping at those thrift
stores.

It was about a mile walk on the beach. There was a beautiful sunset. We got back at
6. Church started at 6:30. Dinner was ham and (Wisconsin) cheese sandwiches,
lettuce, mayo. Fresh mango juice punch. Creme Brulee for dessert. I LOVE creme
brulee.

We ate dinner fast, I washed my face, put on dry shoes and we were off for a 5
minute walk to church.

They had a small generator running so the building was dark except for the lights at
the front. The PA system worked and they sang and sang and sang loud with lots
and lots of energy. About 100 people were there.

We had to go to the front and introduce ourselves. We also sang a song. That was ..
oh how shall I say, pitiful. Louise taught us a song in Creole that we sang. I think we
were all a little intimidated by the setting so we didn’t have half the energy that they
have when they sing. They were gracious and clapped in appreciation and we
stumbled back to our seats in the dark back of the room.

I am getting used to "being on parade" now. It is not often that they get to worship
with other believers. It’s quite an enlightening experience.

Dan did the sermon. He had quite a message with a captive audience that waited to
hear the next part of the story. I had a little girl sleeping in my lap. She was sweet.
After the service, she introduced me to her mom. The baby was shy.

Walking back after the service we noticed the black sky with millions of stars. It
reminded me of that night we saw the Milky Way in New Zealand. Except this time I
had Charles beside me, hounding me again, trying to solicit his shop and wanting to
sell me rocks with my mother's or friend's names. I was in awe of the sky. I exclaimed
to him how beautiful the stars were! I wanted to admire the sky and the beautiful
night and he kept at it with "you want this" or "you want that" and "I can make you
this" or whatever. I didn't want to hear it. I told him that back in my home we can't see
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the stars. He didn't understand that. He didn't know how lucky he was to see a sky
like that every night. Well, I might have offended him, at least he acted hurt, but
enough was enough. No more with the shop talk. I wanted to enjoy the evening.

I took a (cold) shower, journaled, then sleep. Such a happy, tired body. Wonderful
sleep for a couple hours until Mr. Rooster decides that you don't need to sleep any
more.

Thursday

Rachel did the morning devotion. She talked about "Responses."

God answers and things can change.

Math 15:21. The faith of the Canaanite woman.

Son of David - a term they used to acknowledge the Messiah. You must
acknowledge who He is and who you are.

Verse 24 "I was sent only to the lost sheep of Israel" - a test to see if the woman is
genuine.

"In the midst of discouragement, faith will find encouragement"

Hold onto your faith and God will help you. Man and money alone can’t keep
changing things. A lot has been poured into this country and it is difficult to see the
effect . We need God too.

Heb 11:1 - Now faith is being sure of what we hope for and certain of what we do not
see.

"God allows things in our lives because he wants to see our response."

"Life is 10 percent what happens to us, and 90 percent how we respond to it."

Thursday morning, some people went off to the school. No thanks for me. I was
ready for more physical work - the cement pour. This place is right on the beach so
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the buildings sink down. They need to pour more cement on a sidewalk that had
sunk about 6 inches. It was in an awkward place, but Shawn figured out how to use
the tractor to transport the cement and he strategically position it to pour over the 6-
foot tall fence. There were plenty of Haitian men there to help, and we tried to offer
our services.

There was a recipe of a bag of cement with buckets of sand and gravel to heave into
the cement mixer. We were filling the buckets with one pitiful shovel-ful of sand at a
time. Later that afternoon, after some of us (me) petered out, a Haitian man filled
sand bucket in 5 seconds all by himself. He laid the bucket down on its side and
shoved it against the sand pile, then he used the shovel to push the sand in the
bucket. As he watch our laborious method, I'm sure he was thinking to himself that
he could teach us a thing or two. Yup, we can all learn from each other.

Lunch was with your sponsored child (if you had one). Many people were really
looking forward to this all week. On Monday, you give the mission your sponsored
child's number. The Mission notifies the family to bring the child to the Mission for
lunch on Thursday. If you have brought gifts for someone else's child, the child is
supposed to come on Wednesday so you can give them the presents (toys, food,
money). At one time, the mission allowed sponsors to mail money to the children. It
got too dangerous for the mission to handle all that cash and a pastor even got
robbed, so they stopped that practice. You have to give gifts in person now.

It's well worth the trip to Haiti to see the children. We just jump on an airplane, but
some of the children walk for many hours to attend this special meeting with their
sponsor. Louise was beside herself with excitement when her boy came to visit. She
had brought lots of gifts. She put them in a travel case with wheels. 20 pounds of rice
would be easier to transport on wheels, rather than carrying it. Well, I saw the
pregnant mother of her sponsored child walking outside the Mission with the case
balanced on her head! These people never cease to amaze me.

Lunch was fabulous fried chicken, rice and beans and that great Haitian "sauce".
One sponsored boy ate so much his tummy really poked out. What a special time. I
thought about the girl that I sponsor in Saigon. I was so saddened by what we
(America) had done to that country. It is unbelievable to imagine and to see the
atrocities that these people endure every day. I am thankful that these organizations
provide a way for us to help in our own small way, one child at a time.

Thursday 3:30, no 3:50 - we left for a walk to another women’s meeting . This one is
close in the village of Neply. It was by the basketball court. Louise said this court was
poured in August last year when she was here. The meeting is out in the open .
Children were playing all around. They brought out chairs for us to sit in. I moved
mine back so I wasn’t sitting in front center of all the group. They sing and sing in
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Creole, then the woman in charge prays and prays and prays. Many many fast words
pouring out praising God. So passionate. Then every person in the group started
praying out loud for a couple of minutes. Like speaking in tongues all around us.

A cool breeze blows my hair. It feels like about 78 degrees. So nice. It has not rained
all week. Shops open today at 4:30, hopefully we’ll be done so I can give these shop
people some money.

Bible reading Acts 5:1-5 Anania’s sold land, but kept some money for himself. He
died, his wife dies. "Great fear seized the whole church" Wow. Like when people sell
their land here, 75 percent of the time they sell it because they have to pay the
voodoo god...

More singing. We have to introduce ourselves and say something. Then more
singing. There is a LOUD argument going on behind us - a man and woman yelling
and yelling at each other. Shouting. Quite distracting, but others don't seem to notice.
Nothing keeps them from praising God.

Tiffany volunteered to speak at this meeting.

Pro 31:10 - The wife of noble character.

Women can gain wisdom by consulting the Lord in their decisions. Amen.

Allow the Lord to control our tongue and our words.

Give us our earned rewards to bring praise at the city gate.

1 Pet 3 : 1-6 - Wives and husbands.

She did a good job and prepared well. After the women's meeting, we were walking
back and the shops were still open. I shopped till 6! I had no idea it was so late.
Shawn and Mary stayed the whole time to look out for me. Thank you! I do
appreciate their help.

Dinner was Pizza, salad, and coconut bars.

7 p.m. movie night. We saw "Left Behind". That really left me with a memorable
impression of what it's all about. Quite a movie. Charlie made the BEST popcorn that
80

I have ever tasted. It was far better than any $5 movie theater popcorn drenched with
fatty oil.

Friday

Pancakes for breakfast. I ate with Nathan. He is a very lovable boy. He has nonstop
energy like the Energiser bunny. He keeps going and going and going.

Dan did the morning devotion.

Math 13:45 - The kingdom of heaven is like a merchant looking for fine pearls.

If you open something up, you may find something of value inside.

It may be hidden.

You may have to really look for it.

But the affect may be that you give up everything you have to get it.

The state of your heart must be such that you are ready to receive it also.

What do you do with it when you have it?

We should give it away.

That morning, the mission arranged a boat ride with a local man. Doesn't that sound
like a fun experience to go on a Haitian boat? Many people paid $US5 each for the
ride. I can't believe I didn't do the boat. I like the beach, I love the ocean. What I did
instead surprised me. I volunteered to help with the clinic and give physicals at the
school. They had one more morning of work to finish seeing all the kids.

They did the clinic all day on Tuesday. They saw 213 kids. On Thursday it was only
in the morning and now they needed help this morning to see about 150 more kids.
Tiffany and Laura helped the Haitian nurses before. Laura was going in the boat, so
they needed another volunteer. It was actually quite a fun experience.

Groups of about 30 kids came out to the covered area where we were working.
Martha gave them their information sheet, Adam did their height and weight, Emily
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did their pulse, I did their temperature, then sent them to Tiffany or the other nurse
for the rest of the checkup. They listened to their heart and did an overall look with
some questions, then the kids got some vitamins.

I was amazed at one very small boy whose stat sheet said he was 11 years old.
Between groups, the kids would sit on the other side of the table from me. They were
very well behaved. On Tuesday Louise and Christi entertained them by painting
finger nails. That would have been a good idea. The kids would touch my skin and
pull on my hair. They weren't rude. They were just curious. We were there from about
9 to 12:30.

Lunch, then the afternoon was free time (finally!) . What a busy, busy week. Charlie
had given me a copy of his mothers' book: A Stubborn Hope by Jeanne DeTellis. I
started reading it on Wednesday and finished it Friday. I couldn't put it down.
Amazing stories about her life and how she was called to Haiti.

Shops open at 4 p.m. today. It was time to bring everything that you wanted to get rid
of and barter for items. I got a necklace for 2 skirts and a dollar. (I figured out later
that I bought the skirts for $US3 each, so you may get a better deal by just giving
them money.) I gave a dress to (pregnant) Christi. I knelt beside an older lady. I didn't
want anything from her shop but I did give her a couple dollars. I was down to two
shirts and one dollar that I exchanged for something. I made sure to get something
from Mike. I even brought him some batteries. That was a good experience.

The locals knew this was our last day at the mission so they were being a little more
insistent with the begging. I couldn't help wondering what more they expected. They
walk beside you and demand:

"Give me shoes"

"Give me shirt"

"Give me flashlight"

"Give me batteries"

It may help if they learn how to ask nicely and say "Please give me some shoes". It
was a similar situation in Vietnam. Our guide tried to explain to me that there is no
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word in the Vietnamese language that meant "please". I wonder if there is a Creole
word for "please".

Dinner was hamburgers, BBQ beans (like they make in the South) great potatoes.

7 pm Worship in the Dining Hall. Adam leads us on guitar. Charlie shares a

message.

Is this all worth it?

1 Cor 3:8 -Each one will get their reward according to their labor.

Each one will get wages worthy of the work.

God will equip us and provide for us.

Math 16:24 - Deny things so you can pick up the cross and follow Jesus.

Luk 14:12-13 - Our good works are repaid at the resurrection.

Don’t jump into just any good thing. You should follow God's calling.

Set your mind on things above.

The next focus at NEW Missions is generators and PA equipment for churches and
schools.

Distribute passports tonight. We leave at 5:30 a.m. tomorrow.

Saturday

Breakfast cereal and coffee at 5 a.m. Uugh. 5:30 a.m. load up the truck and leave. :-(

Leaving NEW Missions.

The sun is rising over the corn field. Chickens and goats scatter as the bus rolls by.
Many people from the village of Neply are on the edge of the road waving goodbye.
I’m going to miss this place.
83

I’m sure they see our big, full suitcases on top of the bus. We’re on a "tour" bus. The
seats are padded so the bumps don't feel as big. Shawn and Mary are in the truck
behind us. Good thing because a suitcase fell off!

As the children wave goodbye, you can see a sense of disappointment in their faces
knowing that people who bring good things to their community are leaving. I feel sad.
I’m glad NEW Missions is here to minister and help these people. I’m glad George
and Jeanne stayed through the time of crisis and stayed when they were repeatedly
told to leave. They stayed and continued to help and they knew the people that they
were helping would protect them.. It’s a good thing. NEW Missions has been here 20
years!

We just passed a sign on the highway "Douana". I guess it’s the name of a town. I’ll
have to look it up on a map.

All along the roadside, there are people with their wares waiting to be picked up by
the bus. One lady had a huge basket of tomatoes on her head. I saw a 4by4foot
crate of chickens. White feathers were poking out all over the crate.

On the side of the road there are numerous big piles of burnt cars and tires. They
were road blocks. The kind that Jeanne told about driving through in her book.

Conditions here in the city are definitely worse than in the country. There is NO water
in the occasional river beds that we drive over. So far, so good. We’re moving, slow,
but moving. Traffic is heavy, but we have not stopped yet… We’re dodging people all
over the road and other vehicles, and burning piles of debris. It’s two lanes in each
direction, but people park in the right lane, so you have to drive in the left lane. There
are often cement barriers to separate the opposing directions. An official car drove in
our direction on the other side of the barrier against oncoming traffic. I guess you're
allowed, if you are somebody special.

I’ve been noticing the license plates. They say Prive or Taxi. There was a Toyota
Land Cruiser was beside us on the road. License is "00010 Prive" The Prive plates
are usually a letter and four numbers. He must be some high-up government official
who go the tenth license plate.

I saw a sign that said "Telco Haiti: www.makanaky.com ". I was impressed that a
business in this country had a Web site. It sure doesn’t seem like a very effective
way to disseminate information here, if you ask me. Some stats on this country
claimed 3 Internet Service Providers (ISPs) and 6,000 Internet users in the year
2000. Well, I tried the URL when I got home and got the message:
84

Unable to open www.makanaky.com/. Cannot locate the Internet server or proxy

service.

I don’t think I’ve seen a single traffic light yet! There are traffic circles at "big"
intersections. Madeline saw some traffic lights and she said she saw three garbage
trucks! Garbage trucks?!? There is garbage EVERYWHERE, but I guess they need
to start somewhere to haul it somewhere else.

I had a very nice conversation with Madeline on the bus.

She is from Canada, but her parents were born in Haiti. A friend came to pick her up
at the mission and they went to the Montana Hotel. She said it was a 5-star property.
I actually found it listed on the Internet.

Montana Hotel, Port au Prince 509-257-1920

No rates listed, but another hotel, Villa Creole Hotel in P-au-P is $US105 for a
standard double, $US180 for the Ambassador (sic) Suite.

Madeline said they ate at Pietio Ville. All of the people who ate there were either
white or mulatto. Very wealthy diplomats and government officials. Politician and
lawyers. A very elite group. It was located at the top of a protected hill.

Maybe they want to keep this division of the very rich and the very poor. As long as
the poor never see how good some others have it, they will keep functioning and
existing at the level they are accustomed to. They are different levels of poor too.
Madeline see hope in their face.

She feel totally at ease here. Very comfortable walking around. She knows the
language too.

Madeline and Veronique are coming back this summer. A week at NEW Missions,
and week in P-au-P.
85

Madeline said they called her "beige woman" or "yellow woman" "Jeune Madam"
because of the color of her skin. She is lighter than most.

Madeline is a nurse. Since she spoke Creole, she volunteered to help the mission
teach some health classes. Two afternoons she taught women about proper hygiene
and nutrition.

The oldest worn out tires are proudly displayed at the roadside for sale. There is a
woman sweeping dirt, another splashing water on the ground to keep the dust down.
I saw a man lean over and pick something up from a road-side pile, then he put it in
his mouth. Now I have seen true hunger.

So much debris everywhere. The people with shops – I look into their faces and I
don’t see pride like I saw in faces of the shopkeepers in Hanoi. Here I see struggle.
Yearning to succeed with what they have.

The most apparent thing I see on their faces is questions. When they see us (white
people) slowly roll by in the bus I can see they are wondering

Where were we in their country?

Why were we in their country?

Where are we going?

What is it like there?

We passed a sign showing the new paper money in the country:

Nouveaux Billets

Nouvo Papye lajan

86

A Tap-Tap – is a truck for public transport.

Christi learned that a lot of Haitians have never seen a white child (like her - long
blonde hair and very blue eyes). The other children here are dark skinned with dark
hair and eyes. Her nick name is Ti Blan. It means small white. Pronounced "Tee
Blah"

We use Toilet paper - they use stones or banana leaves :(

Sugar cane is $US1 for one stalk. Stevie, Veronique, Shawn had machetes trying to
take the outside of the cane stalk off. It's not that good. It 's like sweet wood. Children
in the country chew on all time to supplement their one meal a day. I saw a lot of bad
teeth.

We arrived at the airport around 7:45 a.m. I did see two traffic lights. "Air d’Ayiti" is Air
Haiti. We're on American Airlines. Now this is secure airport. Here's the drill:

Stand in line to enter airport. Show passport and ticket. X-ray all bags. Random
searches pulled out of line.

Stand in line to get boarding pass. Show passport, ticket. Random searches pulled
out of line.

Pay $31US exit fee, show passport, boarding pass.

Stand in line to get passport stamped. They take the yellow paper. X-ray carry on
bags.

Go upstairs, shop. Rum is cheap ($US2.50 a bottle), but remember it’s illegal for
minors to have it in the U.S.

Go downstairs, stand in line to get to departure gate. Show passport and boarding
pass. Exit gate, show boarding pass, X-ray carry on bags. Random searches pulled
out of the line. Walk on tarmac, show boarding pass, get on the plane.

10 a.m. and we're on the plane. Flight to Miami is 1 hour 32 minutes. It's 78 in Miami.

We're leaving. I have a feeling I'll be back though.

87

Louise is coming back in August and Dan is coming back in July. He is going to Cap-
Haitien. What a coincidence that my brother, Paul and his wife Stefanie are going to
the Evangelical Free church in Cap-Haitien and exactly the same time that Dan is
going to be there. God's plan in action.

Here's another true parallel. OK, maybe I get this writer and travel obsession from my
father. This excerpt is from a letter that my father wrote to his father on March 6,
1962. We were living in Bogota, Colombia where dad worked for the Rockefeller
Foundataion to help farmers. Sad thing is, it still applies to Haiti in 2002.

Sometimes when I get to worrying about my problems, all I have to do is look around
and I can see people with real problems. There is such a large number of poor
people here it is hard to imagine. And I mean people that don't have shoes for their
kids, or even a roof over their heads. The cardboard from all of our furniture packing
is now the roof and sides of a house of a poor squatter family that lives in a field not
too far from our house. I gave them some hay and it is now their bed, and they
consider themselves lucky. Some of the farmers haven't progressed a bit since the
day's of Christ. It almost looked like a scene out of the Bible. In one field, they were
cultivating and planting corn with a team of oxen and a wooden plow to scratch the
dusty dry soil and plant their corn. There was a little boy about 7 years old following
along behind the plow with his sack of corn, planting it and then stepping on it with
his bare foot to cover the seed up. The dirt was dry and hard and it will be a miracle if
any of it comes up. If one-third of the corn comes up, they think this is good and then
the production is so low that it is hardly worthwhile for them to plant it. One family I
visited got their water by hauling it almost two miles in gasoline tins from the dirty
river. They used this water to drink, cook and wash their clothes in.

Letter dated March 1, 1963. Dad wrote this to his parents. He was 39 years old with
a wife and 3 kids living in a foreign country. (I had to add this for my dad and my
sister who worry about me and my brother traveling to someplace that appears to not
be safe. You should see the Consular report on Haiti….)

I realize that you must be worried about us, especially with all the news in the paper
about Colombia. But honestly there isn't anything to worry about. If something starts
to happen, they have enough U.S. Air Force planes parked out here at the airport to
get the Americans to Panama if necessary. But the thing is, that I don't think it will be
88

necessary. Now, there is a good possibility that you will hear about the government
falling here and the military taking over things. This is pretty well expected. But this
will be the army and not the communists, But is and when you read about this , don't
worry. We'll just stay home a few days and then I'll go back to work as usual. But if
we need to, I'm prepared to live here in the house for more than a month if
necessary.

I love this adventurous life that God had allowed me to enjoy. I am so fortunate to
know His presence in my life and experience things with His blessing. I pray He
reveals more escapades for me to explore and write about.

If you want to visit Haiti and a have a similar NEW Missions experience, contact:

NEW Missions

PO Box 2727

Orlando, FL 32802

(407) 240-4058

email: info@newmissions.org

Web Site: www.newmissions.org

Dan Merrefield also does a newsletter featuring Haitian information. Contact him at
dan@merrefield.com.

HAITI FACTS and STATS

Found at http://www.odci.gov/cia/publications/factbook/geos/ha.html

Religions: Roman Catholic 80%, Protestant 16% (Baptist 10%, Pentecostal 4%,
Adventist 1%, other 1%), none 1%, other 3% (1982) note: roughly one-half of the
population also practices Voodoo
89

Languages: French (official), Creole (official)

Background
One of the poorest countries in the Western Hemisphere, Haiti has been plagued by
political violence for most of its history. Over three decades of dictatorship followed
by military rule ended in 1990 when Jean-Bertrand ARISTIDE was elected president.
Most of his term was usurped by a military takeover, but he was able to return to
office in 1994 and oversee the installation of a close associate to the presidency in
1996. ARISTIDE won a second term as president in 2000, and took office early the
following year.
Geography
Location: Caribbean, western one-third of the island of Hispaniola, between the
Caribbean Sea and the North Atlantic Ocean, west of the Dominican Republic
Map references: Central America and the Caribbean
Area: land: 27,560 sq km , water: 190 sq km
Area - comparative: slightly smaller than Maryland
Land boundaries: total: 275 km , border countries: Dominican Republic 275 km ,
Coastline: 1,771 km
Climate: tropical; semiarid where mountains in east cut off trade winds
Terrain: mostly rough and mountainous
Elevation extremes: lowest point: Caribbean Sea 0 m , highest point: Chaine de la
Selle 2,680 m
Natural resources: bauxite, copper, calcium carbonate, gold, marble, hydropower
Land use: arable land: 20%, permanent crops:13%, permanent pastures:18%,
forests and woodland:5%, other:44% (1993 est.),Irrigated land: 750 sq km (1993
est.)
Natural hazards: lies in the middle of the hurricane belt and subject to severe storms
from June to October; occasional flooding and earthquakes; periodic droughts
Environment - current issues: extensive deforestation (much of the remaining
forested land is being cleared for agriculture and used as fuel); soil erosion;
inadequate supplies of potable water

People
Population: 6,964,549
note: estimates for this country explicitly take into account the effects of excess
mortality due to AIDS; this can result in lower life expectancy, higher infant mortality
and death rates, lower population and growth rates, and changes in the distribution
of population by age and sex than would otherwise be expected (July 2001 est.)
Age structure: 0-14 years: 40.31% (male 1,421,945; female 1,385,580)

15-64 years: 55.52% (male 1,869,323; female 1,997,246)

65 years and over: 4.17% (male 140,556; female 149,899) (2001 est.)
90

Population growth rate: 1.4% (2001 est.)

Birth rate: 31.68 births/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Death rate: 15 deaths/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Net migration rate: -2.64 migrant(s)/1,000 population (2001 est.)
Sex ratio: at birth: 1.05 male(s)/female , under 15 years: 1.03 male(s)/female , 15-64
years: 0.94 male(s)/female , 65 years and over: 0.94 male(s)/female , total
population: 0.97 male(s)/female (2001 est.)
Infant mortality rate: 95.23 deaths/1,000 live births (2001 est.)
Life expectancy at birth: total population: 49.38 years
Total fertility rate: 4.4 children born/woman (2001 est.)
HIV/AIDS - adult prevalence rate: 5.17% (1999 est.) , HIV/AIDS - people living with
HIV/AIDS: 210,000 (1999 est.) , HIV/AIDS - deaths: 23,000 (1999 est.)
Nationality: Haitian(s)
Ethnic groups: black 95%, mulatto and white 5%
Religions: Roman Catholic 80%, Protestant 16% (Baptist 10%, Pentecostal 4%,
Adventist 1%, other 1%), none 1%, other 3% (1982) . note: roughly one-half of the
population also practices Voodoo
Languages: French (official), Creole (official)
Literacy: definition: age 15 and over can read and write, total population: 45% , male:
48%, female: 42.2% (1995)

Government
Country name: conventional long form: Republic of Haiti , conventional short form:
Haiti
local long form: Republique d'Haiti
local short form: Haiti
Government type: elected government
Capital: Port-au-Prince
Administrative divisions: 9 departments (departements, singular - departement);
Artibonite, Centre, Grand'Anse, Nord, Nord-Est,Nord-Ouest, Ouest, Sud, Sud-Est
Independence: 1 January 1804 (from France) . National holiday: Independence Day,
1 January (1804)
Constitution: approved March 1987; suspended June 1988, with most articles
reinstated March 1989; in October 1991, government claimed to be observing the
constitution; return to constitutional rule, October 1994
Legal system: based on Roman civil law system; accepts compulsory ICJ jurisdiction
Suffrage: 18 years of age; universal
Executive branch: chief of state: President Jean-Bertrand ARISTIDE (since 7
February 2001)
91

head of government: Prime Minister Jean-Marie CHERESTAL (since 9 February

2001)
cabinet: Cabinet chosen by the prime minister in consultation with the president
elections: president elected by popular vote for a five-year term; election last held 26
November 2000 (next to be held NA 2005); prime minister appointed by the
president, ratified by the Congress
election results: Jean-Bertrand ARISTIDE elected president; percent of vote - Jean-
Bertrand ARISTIDE 92%
Legislative branch: bicameral National Assembly or Assemblee Nationale consists of
the Senate (27 seats; members serve six-year terms; one-third elected every two
years) and the Chamber of Deputies (83 seats; members are elected by popular vote
to serve four-year terms)
elections: Senate - last held for two-thirds of seats 21 May 2000, with runoffs on 9
July boycotted by the opposition; about eight seats still disputed; election for
remaining one-third held on 26 November 2000 (next to be held NA 2002); Chamber
of Deputies - last held 21 May 2000, with runoffs on 30 July boycotted by the
opposition; one vacant seat rerun 26 November 2000 (next election NA 2004)
election results: Senate - percent of vote by party - NA%; seats by party - FL 26,
independent 1; Chamber of Deputies - percent of vote by party - NA%; seats by party
- FL 73, OPL 1, other minor parties and independents 9
Judicial branch: Supreme Court or Cour de Cassation
Political parties and leaders: See the web site. Acronyms are:
ALAH, RDNP, ESPACE, OPL, and MOCHRENA, KONAKOM, PANPRA, PDCH,
PADEM, FL [Jean-Bertrand ARISTIDE], MDN, MRN, MIDH , MOP , FNCD,
MOCHRENA , and OPL .
Political pressure groups and leaders: Autonomous Haitian Workers or CATH;
Confederation of Haitian Workers or CTH; Federation of Workers Trade Unions or
FOS; National Popular Assembly or APN; Papaye Peasants Movement or MPP;
Popular Organizations Gathering Power or PROP; Roman Catholic Church
International organization participation: ACCT, ACP, Caricom (observer), CCC,
ECLAC, FAO, G-77, IADB, IAEA, IBRD, ICAO, ICRM, IDA, IFAD, IFC, IFRCS, ILO,
IMF, IMO, Intelsat, Interpol, IOC, IOM, ITU, LAES, OAS, OPANAL, OPCW
(signatory), PCA, UN, UNCTAD, UNESCO, UNIDO, UPU, WCL, WFTU, WHO,
WIPO, WMO, WToO, WTrO
Diplomatic representation in the US: chief of mission: Ambassador (vacant); Charge
d'Affaires Louis Harold JOSEPH . chancery: 2311 Massachusetts Avenue NW,
Washington, DC 20008 . telephone: [1] (202) 332-4090 FAX: [1] (202) 745-7215
consulate(s) general: Boston, Chicago, Miami, New York, and San Juan (Puerto
Rico)
Diplomatic representation from the US: chief of mission: Ambassador Brian Dean
CURRAN . embassy: 5 Harry S Truman Boulevard, Port-au-Prince . mailing address:
P. O. Box 1761, Port-au-Prince . telephone: [509] 222-0354, 222-0269, 222-0200,
223-0327 . FAX: [509] 23-1641
92

Flag description: two equal horizontal bands of blue (top) and red with a centered
white rectangle bearing the coat of arms, which contains a palm tree flanked by flags
and two cannons above a scroll bearing the motto L'UNION FAIT LA FORCE (Union
Makes Strength)

Economy
Economy - overview: About 80% of the population lives in abject poverty. Nearly 70%
of all Haitians depend on the agriculture sector, which consists mainly of small-scale
subsistence farming and employs about two-thirds of the economically active work
force. The country has experienced little job creation since the former President
PREVAL took office in February 1996, although the informal economy is growing.
Following legislative elections in May 2000, fraught with irregularities, international
donors - including the US and EU - suspended almost all aid to Haiti. This
destabilized the Haitian currency, the gourde, and, combined with a 40% fuel price
hike in September, caused widespread price increases. Prices appear to have
leveled off in January 2001.
GDP: purchasing power parity - $12.7 billion (2000 est.)
GDP - real growth rate: 1.2% (2000 est.)
GDP - per capita: purchasing power parity - $1,800 (2000 est.)
GDP - composition by sector: agriculture: 32% , industry: 20% , services: 48% (1999
est.)
Population below poverty line: 80% (1998 est.)
Household income or consumption by percentage share: lowest 10%: NA% , highest
10%: NA%
Inflation rate (consumer prices): 19% (2000 est.)
Labor force: 3.6 million (1995) note: shortage of skilled labor, unskilled labor
abundant (1998)
Labor force - by occupation: agriculture 66%, services 25%, industry 9%
Unemployment rate: widespread unemployment and underemployment; more than
two-thirds of the labor force do not have formal jobs (1999)
Budget: revenues: $317 million
expenditures: $362 million, including capital expenditures of $84 million (FY99/00
est.)
Industries: sugar refining, flour milling, textiles, cement, tourism, light assembly
industries based on imported parts
Industrial production growth rate: 0.6% (1997 est.)
Electricity - production: 672 million kWh (1999)
Electricity - production by source: fossil fuel: 52.83% , hydro: 47.17% , nuclear: 0% ,
other: 0% (1999)
Electricity - consumption: 625 million kWh (1999) , exports: 0 kWh (1999) , imports: 0
kWh (1999)
Agriculture - products: coffee, mangoes, sugarcane, rice, corn, sorghum; wood
93

Exports: $186 million (f.o.b., 1999) , coffee, oils, mangoes

Imports: $1.2 billion (c.i.f., 1999) , food, machinery and transport equipment, fuels,
raw materials
Debt - external: $1 billion (1998 est.)
Economic aid - recipient: $730.6 million (1995)
Currency: gourde (HTG) .Exchange rates: gourdes per US dollar - 23.761 (January
2001), 22.524 (2000), 17.965 (1999), 16.505 (1998), 17.311 (1997), 15.093 (1996)

Communications
Telephones - main lines in use: 60,000 (1997)
Telephones - mobile cellular: 0 (1995)
Telephone system: general assessment: domestic facilities barely adequate;
international facilities slightly better
Radio broadcast stations: AM 41, FM 26, shortwave 0 (1999)
Radios: 415,000 (1997)
Television broadcast stations: 2 (plus a cable TV service) (1997)
Televisions: 38,000 (1997)
Internet Service Providers (ISPs): 3 (2000)
Internet users: 6,000 (2000)

Transportation
Railways: total: 40 km note: privately owned industrial line; closed in early 1990s
(2001)
Highways: total: 4,160 km , paved: 1,011 km , unpaved: 3,149 km (1996)
Waterways: NEGL; less than 100 km navigable
Ports and harbors: Cap-Haitien, Gonaives, Jacmel, Jeremie, Les Cayes, Miragoane,
Port-au-Prince, Port-de-Paix, Saint-Marc
Merchant marine: none (2000 est.)
Airports: 13 (2000 est.)

Airports - with paved runways: total: 3

2,438 to 3,047 m: 1
914 to 1,523 m: 2 (2000 est.)
Airports - with unpaved runways: total: 10
914 to 1,523 m: 2
under 914 m: 8 (2000 est.)

Military
94

Military branches: Haitian National Police (HNP) note: the regular Haitian Army,
Navy, and Air Force have been demobilized but still exist on paper until
constitutionally abolished
Military manpower - military age: 18 years of age . availability: males age 15-49:
1,635,253 (2001 est.)
fit for military service: males age 15-49: 888,305 (2001 est.) , reaching military age
annually: males: 87,049 (2001 est.)
Military expenditures - dollar figure: $NA; note - mainly for police and security
activities
Transnational Issues
Disputes - international: claims US-administered Navassa Island
Illicit drugs: major Caribbean transshipment point for cocaine en route to the US and
Europe; vulnerable to money laundering

SONGS

Jesus, name above all names

Jezi, non'w anwo tout non

Beautiful Savior, glorious Lord

Bon sove mwen, Gloriye Segne

Emmanuel; God is with us

Emaniel; Bondye avek nou

Blessed redeemer, living word.

Redampte beni, Parol vivan.

===================================================

Se pa Puisans
Se pa pouvwa
Se pa Lespri di le Segne x2

Montay yo va deplase
Montay yo va deplase-e
Montay yo va deplase
95

Se pa Lespri di le Segne.

I have decided to follow Jesus

Mwen te decide pou suiv le Senye, Mwen te decide pou suiv le Senye,
Mwen te decide pou suiv le Senye, Mwen p'ap tounin, Mwen p'ap tounin

Mwen p'ap tounin, Mwen p'ap tounin, non non, Mwen p'ap tounin
Mwen p'ap tounin, Mwen p'ap tounin, non non, Mwen p'ap tounin

Lord I Lift Your Name on High

Segne, Mwen Leve non Ou

Lord, I lift you name on high

Segne, mwen leve non ou

Lord, I love to sing your raises

Segne, mwen konton louve ou

I'm so glad you're in my life

Mwen konton ou nan lavi mwen

I'm so glad you came to save us

Mwen konton ou te vin sove mwen

96

You came from heaven to earth - To show the way

Ou sot nan syel vin sou la te - Pou montrem chemen ou

From the earth to the cross - My debt to pay

Sot sou late al sou kwa - Pou peye det pechem

From the cross to the grave - From the grave to the sky

Sot sou kwa ale nan tonb - Sot non tonb monte nan syel

Lord, I lift your name on high.

Segne, mwen leve non ou.

Creole or "Kweyol" Language

Creole is to French, as emoticons are to English.

If you have caught onto reading emoticons, and you know a little French, then you
may be able to figure out Creole. For example:

"Cn u by me sm lunch I 4gt mny" means "Can you buy me some lunch? I forgot my
money"

"pls wk me if he sez nethng important" means "Please wake me if he says anything

important".

"wsp" is "What's up", and "xlnt" is "Excellent"

Creole French English
Bon jou Bonjour Good morning
97

Bon swa (Bon swe) Bonsoir Good afternoon or evening

Mesi Merci Thank you
Ye Hier Yesterday

Web sights for learning Creole

Http://www.delphis.dm/creole.htm

http://www.travland.com/languages/cgi-bin/landchoice.cgi

THE END!
98

http://www.stbpoa.com/viajantes/saara/default_ing.asp

Our travel to Southern Algeria in the Sahara (26 December 2001-14

January 2002)

In 2001 Anh-Minh and I finally set our mind on a first visit to the desert.
The idea was not prompted by a long standing dream to fulfil or a sudden
metaphysical urge as friends and relatives often relate the desert to. It
was a compromise.

I had been dreaming to visit North of Algeria for 10 years. Half of my

family had once lived and died there. From France, more than anywhere
else, Algeria is seen as the most dangerous place on earth. Result of a
complicated relation with what had once been part of the French territory?
“From Cherbourg to Tamanrasset” was the scale De Gaulle used to
measure France’s “grandeur” to. Today, Algeria’s 2,381,741 km2 could
easily hold 4 France. 84% is desert and probably 85% in a couple of years
as the desert is gaining despite the green belt, sort of ecological Hadrien’s
wall that the government maintain to stop it. Terrorism and raising
discontent of an increasing population are also two of the ogres that the
country faces. In 1992 Algeria became bloody Algeria in the media and
eventually in people’s mind. A country out of bound; an image that seems
to serve both governments but not the two people relationship. I got fed
up with that simplistic reality, fed up waiting for better condition. I was
mature to land to Algiers with a low profile and alone.

My wife did not want to stay on the shore and give up an opportunity to
make interesting photos. She had visited many countries on her own (Iran
was her last) and had converted me to using the web to prepare mine. To
her big surprise almost no information was available on tourism in Algeria.
Reliable posts had even deserted her favourite forums. We were at a loss.
Encouragement came from catalogues of French tour operators. Algeria
was back after several years of interruption with its best asset: the
99

desert. Its lovers had never stop flying over despite dramatic official
warnings. But on their own, knowing from experience. Touaregs had
become their friends and the desert their home. Touareg society in the
Far South had been preserved from the problems that stormed the North
of the country. It had even sheltered Algerians who ran away from the
north. Tamanrasset is as far from Algiers and its perils as Paris is from
Algiers: 2,000 km South from the capital.

The irruption of the Algerian desert in magazines was an invitation to new

visitors and an irresistible temptation for amateur photographs. We would
travel together and stop over to Algiers on the way. Two internet
correspondents in Algeria would drive 120 km to welcome us there and
showed us around the city. We contacted directly a local travel agency in
Tamanrasset. Akar-Akar, Mr Zounga’s agency, helped us to design a route
for a three-week trip in a four-wheel drive car only for the two of us. We
would be accompanied by Azoum, our Targui guide and driver and
Meriam, the cook. This is minimum and compulsory equipage to travel in
the desert whatever your are going on foot, camels, donkeys or cars. It
cost us $2,600 plus the flight on Air Algeria.

When you ask experienced travellers what desert they see as best, you
often get the Sahara for reply. In Algeria the Sahara is the desert in its
full variety: dunes, rocks, mountains often mingle to create hypnotic
landscapes coming from another planet or another time. Water is scarcer
than anywhere else in the Sahara: no salty lakes reminiscent of the
ancient ocean like in Libya; only a couple of guelta, trickles of water
spurring from deep gorges and watched as if they were gold mines. We
set off on a trip in the history of the earth without knowing whether we
were witnessing the past or the future of our planet. From the once
luxuriant tropical vegetation, elephants and giraffes remain engraved in
stone; ancient populations have left drawings and paintings of their
pastoral life; utensils and weapons unveiled by winds are found scattered
on ordinary sand fields; milestones, heads of arrows, pieces of pottery,
ostrich shell like any ordinary stone are forbidden to collect.
100

Our route first whirled around Tamanrasset, a passage between equatorial

and north Africa. We drove trough the Hoggar mountains and reached
Assekrem its summit at 2,600 m, a place famous for the sunsets and
sunrises over giant sugar-loaf mountains. People spend the night there in
a refuge and climb the last slope at night expecting the rising sun as if it
were a resurrection. A couple of priests live there permanently. The
Hoggar is the remains of violent and huge volcanic activity that literally
turned the earth inside out. Black round pebble mountains are next to
bunches of brown-orange totem-like shape mountains with enormous
teethes that seems to have pierced the crust over night, leaving blue and
red gritty veins open.

We then headed South towards the Niger border in an area where rocks
meet sand and takes creeping anthropomorphic shapes. It is like walking
in the middle of petrified Jurassic park, with giant mushrooms, fragile
needles and other strange shapes in the remote that attract you like
sirens. The sand makes distance longer and more difficult than you wish.
We easily lost marks and eventually turned back. Dunes are the long
awaited features. They are like naked bodies, really sensual when the sun
falls down. At first we were a bit intimidated and reluctant to alter their
spotless skin with our footprints. Finally you feel like taken off your shoes
and the rest comes naturally… We walked along the fragile edge line,
leaving behind us the constant moving body reshaping itself. One side of
the dune is always softer than the other. We dug our feet in the sand to
find some coolness. Sleeping in the dunes might be a freezing experience
as they become quickly cold at night. I am not even talking of winds of
sand that make the targui, its camel and stones melt in a common cry.
We took a look around on the most aesthetic curves and let us roll down
the slope.
101

We started a long pendulum route eastward and spent New Year Eve in
Tahaggart “castle”, a line of rocks cast on our way in the middle of a
boring flat desolated land. It was like an apparition: high walls and towers
besieged by dunes. The falling sun revealed breaches, donjons and
loopholes. The moon rising on the opposite cast shapes of the last
petrified defender. We could not help a thrill, doubtful that Tahaggart had
never been built by an ancient civilisation, a lost world that we were
rediscovering.

We usually stopped at 5 pm at the latest after we found a natural good

shelter for the night. We gave a hand at the installation of the camp and
started our own discovery of the site while Meriem cooked the dinner and
Azoum prepared tea and controlled the car. The air is so dry that nothing
smells, neither us nor the quarter of a mouton that bumped along in the
rear of the car. We had fresh vegetables and fruits during ten days. We
slept out under the stars every day. I was counting shooting stars since I
had hardly seen any in Paris for years. Temperature in the evening was
around 8 degrees against 25 during the day. In winter there is no need to
fear snakes and scorpions; they are asleep. We lit up a fire and told each
other stories. The glittering on the car was the only light in the night tens
of kilometres around.

We also experienced long crossing of flat boring land with huge heaps of
stones naturally gathered by size. We were half asleep. The car must have
looked like an ant that desperately looked for its track home. We actually
did not realised the situation. We trusted our driver blindly. Once we
emerged onto a flat sea of sand. Azoum was making his own track. All
natural landmarks were imperceptibly vanishing on the horizon and was
replaced by a ring of heat mist as far as we could see. It was really like
flying on a disk of land. We had the vivid feeling to be really in the middle
of nowhere. It lasted ten minutes and that was one of the most striking
experience in our life.
102

After ten days on our own we reached the first foothills of the Tassili
N’Ajjer near the Libyan border and the town of Djanet. We were often
asked where we came from by other guides. “You made it with a single
car?!”, they asked. They looked at us suspiciously, mumbled that we were
crazy and turned their back at us. We carried on several days in the
tassili, the famous Tadrart with its intricate landscape of yellow and
salmon dunes, and its maze of stones with impressive arches. We came
across a Swiss-German woman of 75 years old who had been walking for
a month with a camel and two touareg guides older than her and with
whom she could hardly communicate!

Although it was the peak season for tourism, we hardly met tourists on
the road and in the most famous places of the Sahara we visited. We
always had the feeling to be the first to print our footsteps on the spot.
There is no sign to show the direction of spots worth seeing, no road, no
equipped rest area, nothing but the rough nature, a set of rules of bonne
conduite, a reliable and friendly touareg companions and the liberty that
such a gigantic nature allows.

We ended our trip on foot with other companions and donkeys. We

strolled on the high plateau of Tamrit in search of the rupestral paintings
and the fossil cypress trees, a site classified World Heritage Patrimony and
reserve of the biosphere by UNESCO.
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http://africa.dreamers1.com/Africa-16.htm

Newsletter #16 11-April-2000

Libya
Greetings,

We've covered a lot of distance since you last heard from us. We crossed
into Libya at Ras Ajdir. Border formalities took a couple of hours and we
bush camped on the Mediterranean near the town of Zuara. Before we
crossed the border, we celebrated Max's 73rd birthday with a fruitcake
Kienny had baked for the occasion.

On Thursday we asked about the price of fuel and were told that diesel was
cheaper than water! At US$0.05 per litre, it cost us $9 to fill our 180L fuel
tank!! After gleefully paying for the fuel, we visited the Roman ruins at
Sabratah, on the coast about 100Km west of Tripoli. The ruins are claimed
by some to be the "most beautiful in the world". The town was founded by
the Phoenicians as a port and is the source of some of the best known
mosaics in the world. We spent several hours walking through the
amphitheater, admiring the artistry of the Herculean Temple, and puzzling
the plumbing of the Oceanus Baths and the public Latrines! The city was
destroyed in 647AD. We missed going to the museum as it was closed for
the Feast of Abraham – the day the Muslims celebrate the day Abraham
sacrificed the lamb provided by God in place of his son.

We bypassed Tripoli and camped off the road that night just before Leptis
Magna [according to the GPS, at 32 degrees, 41 minutes N and 14 degrees,
5 minutes E] amongst some pine trees. It was a delightful spot with ample
firewood. During the night we had a very light shower, the first rain since
leaving Australia.
104

It's hard to escape feeling at home as many of the roads are lined with
eucalyptus trees. We have also seen a number of plantations of eucalyptus
trees as well as a lot of wattle trees in blossom. We've seen these Australian
trees in all the countries we've travelled through.

Yesterday we spent most of the day exploring the expansive ruins of Leptis
Magna. One of the beauties of Libya is the lack of tourists and therefore the
lack of restrictions in such places as Leptis Magna. We had the freedom to
explore the ruins to our hearts contents. The ancient town of Leptis Magna
was so big, the ruins are so awesome, that it is hard to take it all in. Max and
Sheila have visited numerous ruins throughout Europe and reckon the sites
we have seen in Libya and Tunisia are far more impressive. One of the
guidebooks says that Leptis Magna is the "best Roman site in the
Mediterranean".

The two Roman ruins we've seen in Libya are just so impressive they have
to be seen to be appreciated. We don't have the words to describe them.
After spending most of the day here, we ended up camping at the same pine
tree campsite we stayed at the previous night. The nights in Africa have
been cool and the days very pleasant. When we woke up this morning there
was not a cloud in the sky, but it was the coldest we've had in Africa (8
degrees C) yet the day has turned out to be the warmest we've had (low
20's).

Today Saturday 18 March we arrived in Tripoli, the capital of Libya. As

we've not had a shower since leaving Tunis, we had no choice but to spend
a night in a hotel. We are staying at the Bab El Madinah, on the
Mediterranean in the centre of town within walking distance from the old
fort and markets. In the past, hotels in Libya have been very expensive.
However, since the currency has been devalued, prices are now very
reasonable. It cost us US$20 for a double room overlooking the
Mediterranean with secure parking. We changed money on the black market
before entering Libya, but found the official rate at the banks in Tripoli to
105

be similar [1.9 Libyan dinar to 1 US$]. We have found the prices in Libya
and Tunisia to be very cheap, especially compared to European prices.

We are sending this email from an Internet cafe in Tripoli. It is very large
and has in the order of two dozen computers in a modern office. It cost only
US$2.50 per hour. In Tunis and Marseille it was difficult to type because
the keyboards were not in English, where as here in Tripoli the keyboards
are in English. We are constantly amazed by the number of Africans using
the Internet.

Despite its reputation, Libya is an extremely safe place. In the four days
we've been here, we have only seen guns twice -- one soldier at the entrance
of an army base and two policemen at the entrance to a museum. We saw
far more guns in Italy and Tunisia than we have seen here. The locals have
been extremely friendly and many of them speak very good English.
Everyone we've met has been very keen for foreigners to realise that Libya
is a safe and beautiful country to visit -- which is certainly our experience.
All the officials we've met have also been friendly and courteous. About the
only criticism we have of the country is that it needs an anti-litter campaign.

After leaving Tripoli, we headed southwest to Ghadames via Yfren and

Nalut along a good bitumen highway. About 100 km out of Tripoli, the
highway climbed to the top of a mountain range that extends from the coast
just east of Tripoli all the way to Tunisia. On leaving Tripoli, the
countryside was green and populated, but eventually gave way to desolate
desert country the closer we got to Ghadames. At Nalut we went to the
immigration office to have our passports stamped. As the forms were all in
Arabic, a local who was in the office renewing his passport invited us into
his home for a cup of tea while he filled in the forms for us. This has been
typical of the friendship shown to us by the people of Libya.

In Ghadames we visited the old town which is now on the World Heritage
list. It was fascinating to walk through the narrow alleyways and the multi-
106

storied mud-brick houses. Contained within the wall of the old town were
numerous date palms and small farming plots, with plentiful water supplied
from the vast artesian basin. It was only recently that everyone was
relocated into modern housing surrounding the old town. We spent a couple
of days in Ghadames, made all the more delightful by spending time with
three local guys who befriended us.

We left Ghadames for Ghat along the Algerian border with our permit and
compulsory guide. Ali was a Tuareg tribesman who grew up travelling the
old trade route with his father back in the camel days. We spent four days
covering the 720 km, some of which passed through Algeria. The
countryside was diverse. Some areas were flat, while others were undulating
plains of gravel or sand. There were several mountain ranges, numerous
"wadis" (dry creek beds) that often widened out into plains. But best of all
was the sand dune country! One night we spent camped inside Algeria on
top of the tallest sand dune we could find (about 175 metres high). Along
the way we saw some rock carvings, a salt lake, a small oasis lined with
palm trees that is being overtaken by a large sand dune, a large petrified
tree, and a number of Algerian oil fields clearly visible from the Libyan side
of the border.

We reached the bitumen again just before Ghat where we spent two nights
in a campground where we were able to enjoy hot showers and restaurant
meals within sight of the Akakus mountain escarpment. The day before we
arrived in Ghat, we had broken the main front leaf spring, so our first task
was to get this welded. Does the OME (Old Man Emu) heavy duty leaf
spring warranty cover two years on African roads? In Ghat we strolled
through the old mud-brick town and climbed the hill for a look at the fort
the Italians built during the war, stocked up with fresh fruit and vegies,
topped up the water and fuel tanks, and got our permit to travel through the
World Heritage Akakus mountains.
107

Continuing on with Ali as our compulsory guide, we spent five days

winding our way through the ever changing and absolutely stunning scenery
of the Akakus mountains, pausing on numerous occasions to look at rock
carvings and paintings, some of which are reputed to date back 10,000
years. Words are not enough to describe the beauty of the Akakus region
with its sand dunes back-dropped by rugged mountains and bizarre rock
formations.

It was sad when we set foot back on the bitumen and said goodbye to Ali
who had been our guide, friend and companion for the past eleven days.
From Serdeles we headed north east to a campground just outside Germa.
After having a shower, stocking up with fresh supplies, and lowering the
tyre pressure, we headed north into the "sand sea" dune country to visit the
picture postcard Dune Lakes. The drive was a real buzz and a lot of fun for
the driver (Geoff) but a bit stressful for his passengers! It was all that you
imagine of the Sahara. Driving in a Saharan sand sea is very different from
driving in Australian deserts. As a whole the sane dunes are much firmer,
irregular, taller and vast!

We first stopped at the Mandara oasis where we strolled around the lake and
enjoyed lunch under the shade of a eucalyptus tree overlooking the lake,
fringed by palm treees. As is typical of Africa, where ever people have lived
in Libya, you find an abundance of Australian eucalyptus or gum trees.
Palm trees look nice, but for firewood and shade, you can't beat our trees!
After lunch we drove to the oasis of Um el Ma, where we camped for the
night. This lake is called the "Mother of the Waters", although we think it
would have been better called the "Mother of Flies"! The afternoon sun was
very hot, but the view of the lake with the reflection of the palm trees
against the setting sun was fabulous. The spring fed lake is 200 metres long
and 50 metres at its widest point and is the prettiest of all the lakes. We
were tempted to go for a swim, but as the water was salty, we didn't relish
the thought of sleeping with crackly skin.
108

The next day we continued over the sand dunes to the Gabrun oasis, the
biggest of the lakes. We had a relaxing afternoon strolling through the old
abandoned village and having a snooze under the eucalyptus trees. The
village was most interesting, considering the people had moved out only ten
years ago. During the day the clouds built up, and as we were sitting down
for tea, it began to rain... well, a few drops fell out of the sky. We later
heard that Ghat had had two days of rain.

On leaving the next morning the temperature skyrocketed, reaching 38

degrees, blown in by strong winds. The drive back to Germa gave us our
first taste of a sand storm. The surface of the dunes was awash with
billowing sand and navigation was difficult due to the reduced visibility and
the fact that the tracks were being quickly obliterated. Back at the
campground, we enjoyed a lengthy shower, removing the sand from our
eyes, ears, hair and beard...

The next day, in spite of the heat, we spent the morning driving in air
conditioned comfort to Wadi Mathendous. This is a relatively small dry
creek bed in the middle of a plain covered with black basalt boulders that is
home to a 200 metre long fantastic gallery of 10,000 year old rock carvings.
Despite the 41 degree heat, we spent an hour and a half viewing the many
engravings before heading back once again to the campground near Germa.

We woke the next day to much cooler temperatures and set off for Waw en
Namus, some 600 km to the south east. We left the bitumen at Timsah,
reduced the tyre pressure and travelled through the Timsah Sands. We then
followed a formed dirt road that was so corrugated that we made our own
track across the plain. The final 150 km was bush tracks across gravel and
sandy plains. This area was the most desolate we have travelled through.
Apart from a few trees in one wadi, we saw no signs of vegetation until we
reached the top of the volcanic rim of the Waw en Namus crater and looked
down upon three lakes rimmed with tall reeds and palm trees. After driving
around the 11 km rim, we had a most enjoyable time exploring the depths of
the crater on foot. On the way back we had a most unusual sensation
109

crossing the Timsah Sands. The surface was totally obscured by blowing
sand, giving us the feeling of floating in mid air with the engine racing
itself, always rising higher as though we were about to take off. Between the
end of Troopy's white bonnet and the grey sky was nothing but the pale
yellow colour of the blowing sand. It was only an occasional blade of grass
or marker pole that gave any sense of orientation or speed.

It was with great sadness that we hit the bitumen and realised that our time
in the Sahara was at an end. We drove back to Tripoli via Sebha, Hun and
Sirte and camped on the Mediterranean Sea. We have had a fantastic month
in Libya. It has met and indeed exceeded our every expectation. The people
are so very friendly, the vastness of the desert is awesome, the sand dune
country is out of this world, and the country is so safe and secure. It's
unfortunate that Libya has such an undeserved reputation.

From here we head back to Tunisia where we have another week before
catching the ferry to Sicily and our flight back to Australia. We're really
enjoying travelling with Max and Sheila, and we have all kept well, no
doubt in part due to Sheila's good cooking. It has been a magnificent trip.

Best Wishes from Tripoli,

Geoff Kingsmill and John Sandefur

110

http://www.travelhead.com/trip/journal/panama3/

...and yet more Pamana and

Colombia
April 30th

Subject: Rick steals quarters from panhandlers

Current Location - Panama City, Panama
Local Currency - Balboa (B$1 = US$1) (uses US bills and
coins)
Language - Spanish
Temperature - 90ish & muggy. Hot. Real hot.
Song defining this leg of the trip - Lifetime Party - Cecilio
and Kapono

So I finally left Bocas after 3 weeks. Thats the longest I stayed in

one place on my trip so far. My last night in the city, I walked around
and actually began to think I was going to miss this place. I had
somewhat of a routine set up now. I was a regular at my cafe for
lunch and the lady behind the counter knew me and smiled when I
came in. But alas it was time to leave.

I couldnt find anyone to buy my surfboard, so I decided to take it

with me on the chance I might be able to use it on the pacific side of
Panama, which would take a fair bit of effort to get to, according to
the maps I had. But I needed a way to carry it, I had no bag. Well, I
had bought a hammock to use at the hotel, so I got some string and
rope, tied the hammock around the board, tied the ends together
111

with rope, put the rope over my shoulder, and viola - instant board
bag. It worked. It looked ghet-to, but it worked. As I was testing out
my new contraption, a girl at the hotel asked me what I was doing
that for, and I told her I was traveling with it because I couldnt find
anyone to buy it. She made an offer and the worlds coolest board
bag never even got to make its maiden voyage.

Unfortunately, the waves really died out while I was in Bocas. I only
really got to use the board a few times, and the waves werent even
rthat great. Part of the reason I wanted to take the board to the
pacific side, but in the end, it was too much trouble, and the last
minute offer swayed me out of it.

Someone had told me that flights to Panama City from Bocas were
only $50, and half that if you had a student ID, which I do. Thery
also told me that flights to David, where I wanted to go were $30.
Assuming the 50% discount still applied, I figured I would take a $15
plane ride rather than the $3 ferry and $8 bus. I dont really know
why I ended up deciding that, I just did. I had done the entire
Central America leg overland, and now I was taking a plane just to
avoid a short 4 hour trip. Well, it turend out there was no 50%
discount, but I took the flight anyway. On top of that, each
passenger gets a 25lb bag limit, which the guy told me I was over.
No big deal, I cant be that much over. How about 28 pounds over.
Thats a whopping 53 pounds that I have been lugging through
central america, not including the 5 pound day pack. Crikeys.

Anyway, despite feeling like a cheater for getting on a plane, I loved

the trip. I got to see bocas from the air, and after studying property
maps for 3 weeks, I knew each island, down to the little ones, even
the one I was going to get. It looked cool.
112

45 minutes later, I was in David, and then took the 45 minute ride to
Boquete. Boquete is a cool little mountain town near the border of
Costa Rica. Its a lot cooler temperature wise, which is nice after
being in Bocas. It actually reminded me of a Panamanian Aspen. I
checked in to a random pension (all cheaper hotels here in Central
America are called either pensions, hostals, or hospedajes) and went
to email some friends from Bocas, Lisa and Jasmine, who I planned
to meet up with. Turned out they were in the room right across from
me, same pension.

We grabbed a bite to eat, and I told them about my extra charges

with the 53lb bag. They were dumbfounded. They told me we would
go back to the hotel and go through every single thing I had and
they would tell me what to send home. So, the evening was spent
going through Ricks belongings, and getting rid of about 10lbs of
stuff.

The next day in Boquete was spent taking a tour of a Coffee

plantation. Panama makes some of the worlds best coffee, ranking
#3 worldwide. The plantatiom that we visited was incredible. It took
3 hours and went over every phase from planting to packaging. The
factory was built in 1913, and in 1970 they were still using the same
original equipment which was powered off a water wheel. The only
reason they changed in 1970 was because the water stopped, and
they had to find a new way to get power, and took it as a good time
to re-do the whole place.

After the coffee plant tour, we decided to hike out to the hotsprings
in the area. The hotsrpings were about a 30 minute taxi ride,
followed by an hour hike. It was pouring rain when we went, but
113

that actually made it more interesting. Hiking through a rainforest-

like area while its raining is sort of cool. The hotsprings were neat as
well, and we stayed for a couple hours.

The next day we made the trek to Panama City...by bus let me add.
:-) I really like Panama City. Of all the major cities I have seen in
Central America, its my favorite. Its clean, its modern, and its fun. I
think Panama city is ideally suited to visitors of my age for one
simple reason: we grew up with Frogger. Frogger, for those who
dont know, was a video game in the early 80's where the point of
the game was to direct a frog across 16 lanes of traffic to the other
side. Same goes here. There are 4 lane streets with no traffic lights,
meaning there is no where that the traffic stops. You just pick a
point along the street, try to gauge where there is a gap at each lane
and run for it. Sometimes you can cross two lanes, stand in the
middle of the road while cars drive by at 35mph inches from you,
and wait to cross the next two.

Another crazy thing about Panama City, at least in the district that I
am in, is that they seem to be trying to make it look like Times
Square, NYC. Huge signs have gone up all along the road. One of
them was a globe that had to be 10-12 feet in diameter with the
words "ELECTRONICS WORLD" orbiting the globe. I figured this
would be a good place to see if they could fix my computer, but I
couldnt find it. I asked the lady behind the counter of a small kiosk-
sized place selling walkmans and cell phones where Electronics
World was. She looked surprised that I would ask and informed me
this was Electronics World. The sign was bigger than the store. I
found several places that were just the same.
114

I checked in to the hostel here in Panama City (the only one in the
whole city). The hostel is pretty cool. Abdiel, the owner, bought a
penthouse apartment built in the 60s, and turned it in to a hostel. Its
interesting, seeing all the signs of opulescense left over, like the pink
marble bathroom with a biday (sp?). Definitely the first hostel I have
been in with one of those. And it has a great view too. However, the
elevator broke the other day, and a penthouse apartment becomes
that much less cool when you have to take the stairs to the top.

Anyway, a few of us from the hostel went out my first night to walk
around the old town part of Panama city, despite the fact that as it
was Sunday most places would be closed. As we reached a park
overlooking the bay and the city, I gazed and it really felt like I had
reached the end of Central America. My mind flashed back to
crossing the border at Tijuana, and what a long strange trip it had
been.

My next day was spent doing errands, and meeting up later with Lisa
and Jasmine for drinks on the Causeway. The Causeway is a long
highway that stretches over the bay, and joins up a couple small
islands that have bars and resturants on them. We stayed for a few
beers, then caught a taxi to head home. This is when things get
strange.

Jasmine sits in the front, I sit in the back and so does Lisa. We get to
a red light. Its hot, so all windows are open wide. This guy who
looks like he is completely strung out on some sort of drugs, comes
up to the rear window on Lisa's side of the car shaking his
McDonalds cup with some change in it, obviously wanting us to put
in more change. Lisa, being polite, simply says no. He looks at me,
being a smart ass, I say "no thanks, i'm not thirsty". I said it real
115

patronizingly. I guess it was the part of me that was sick of being

begged off of for months on end, now had a little jab at the
panhandler. He kept shaking the cup, thinking I didn't understand,
but I just kept telling him I wasnt thirsty, but thank you oh so much
for offering. So he pulls out a quarter to show me thats what he
wants, when lo and behold he drops it. In the car. He reaches inside
the door reaching around on the floor, practically under Lisas feet
trying to find it. Light goes green. Cab starts to go. You have never
seen a look of sheer teror and panic as you have on the face of a
panhandler realizing that HIS quarter is about to drive off. Realizing
that the driver of the cab knows nothing about the immense severity
of this situation, he runs and flings himself on the hood, one hand
clenched on a wiper, the other chenched on the drivers door,
drugged out face pressed firmly against the front windsheild
screaming various pleas at full volume, along with little bits of spittle.
The driver, unphased, keeps driving. If we cross the intersection to
the other side, we get on the freeway. The panhandler is screaming
that he wants his quarter, the cab driver not knowing that he
dropped one, thinking he just wants OUR quarter, is telling him to
get off, or hang on at 60mph, slowly inching across the intersection,
heading for the freeway, panhandler screaming, people looking on.
I'm just sitting in the back watching this surreal drama play out in
front of me, knowing that in some twisted way, I actually caused it.
What would happen if we drove on the freeway, and he fell off?
Worse yet, what if he didnt fall off? The image of a taxi driving down
the freeway at full speed with a screaming panhandler attached
firmly to the hood went through my mind. I could only laugh. So I
decide to give him a new quarter to end this situation. I reach in my
pocket and can only find a 50c piece. Fine. Let him make a quarter
on the deal. We're stopped now mid-intersection, and traffic behind
is angry and honking. The panhandler slithers off the hood like a
snake making sure to keep two hands on the car in the event we try
to drive off and fool him. He slithers over and I hand him the 50c
116

piece. Then he says "ok, now I want to find MY quarter" and puts
the top half of his body in through the window and begins to reach
over me, trying to see if he can find it. I push his sweaty head back
out from whence it came and said "GET OUT!"

I got back to the hostel and a group of us decided to go out to

celebrate the last night of the guys from Norway. These were the
guys I had met in Bocas who had sailed around the world. Their 21-
month adventure was ending the next morning, so we had to go out
and celebrate.

While waiting to go out, the movie "Blow" was playing in the living
room. This is the movie where Johnny Depp plays a guy who gets
involved in trafficking. I watched the scene where he is in Columbia,
and after a few minutes, realized that I had grown so used to seeing
people with machine guns, that that part of the scene didnt register
with me until several minutes in to it. I can actually remember
watching that movie in LA, seeing the same scene, and thinking that
those guys were added for effect. Now, I realize machine guns are
just a way of life down here. In fact, the other day while shopping, a
black sport bike pulled up to one of the shopping centers. It was a
high-powered sportbike, painted completely black, except for the
"Policia National de Panama" logos on it, two guys in army greens
riding it, with bulletproof vests on the outside of their uniforms, and
full-face black motorcycle helmets with the glass piece tinted with
silver-mirror tint. They had full size machine guns, and a small
aresenal on their belts. They looked like some futuristic cop from the
movie The Terminator, and I was about to run out of harms way
thinking they had been called in to this mall to fight someone or
something, possibly a visitor from the future here to steal some cell
phones. Nope, just going to work, guarding the mall.
117

Anyway, our night out was a blast. It started at a hookah bar for
drinks, which is an indian style resturant where you can order a
hookah, which is an indian smoking device. The device is filled with
flavored coals which have a fruity aroma to them. It is then smoked
through the device and out a tube which is passed around the table.
If it was supposed to make you feel lightheaded or anything else, it
didnt. It was just supposed to taste good, and used as a social thing
as it is in India. So we enjoyed our hookah and beers and headed
out to the next place.

The next place was a karaoke bar. I figured it would be kind of dead.
No, quite the contrary. It was jammed to the walls. And the people
singing...looked like they were on star search. There was a monitor
with the words, like most karaoke places have, but it was clear it
wasnt needed. These people werent looking at the monitors, they
were looking around the audience, singing like real performers, and
sounding like professional recording stars. This was not amature
night. A couple hours of karaoke gave way to some good DJing, and
we stayed until about 4am.

The next day while I nursed a wicked hangover (I cant remember

the last time I drank like that, it must have bee....wait I can, it was 2
weeks ago. Nevermind) I went to see about my laptop. Turns out it
can be fixed and would be done that afternoon.

I took the rest of the day to do some shopping with a guy named
David from the hostel. We went out looking for a new backpack for
me, but were unsucessful. However, I found a really cool patch for
my bag that said "Policia Natoinal de Panama". I wanted it. The guy
said he wasnt allowed to sell it to civilians. I pleaded, telling him it
would never be shown in this country. I would sew it on after I left.
He said he could only sell it to policemen, but if I wanted to find a
policeman and have him come in and buy it for me, I could. Of
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course, if forgot about that... I'm in the land of payoffs, anything is

possible! I searched around for a policeman to bribe to buy me a
patch, but couldnt find one. I am thinking of going back for another
try.

We caught a bus back to the hostel. I have to give the award for the
best busses in Central America to Panama City, hands down. The
busses here are painted incredibly, most of them airbrushed with
amazing designs. Like the rest of Central America, Jesus is the
theme for the paintings. However, unlike the rest of Central America,
it is not required that Jesus be the theme. On one bus, there was a
mural of someone resembling Xena, the warrior princess, on the
hood, on another bus a picture of Hulk Hogan flexing a bicep on the
back door, with his name painted below, as if there was any doubt
who that bicep belonged to. The rest of the bus is then decorated in
glitter tape, and other various stickers, and the use of an excessive
amount of lights is encouraged. These cone shaped lights about 3
inches round and 4 inches tall adorn the entire sides of some busses,
some have 6 on the hood, or a few around the door, and some more
here and there. And they dont stop on the outside. The bus that
David and I got in to to come home, was more like stepping in to a
disco rather than a bus. Red diamond pattern vinyl lined the inside of
the bus, even on the ceiling. Furry animals stuck to all parts of the
windows and rails. Railings painted or covered in colored tape. All
sorts of different colored lights inside. This was classic! I had to take
a photo. When the flash went off, the already festive crowd, got
even more so, and turned around to see who took the picture. One
of the girls in the front said "no, the picture needs to have ME in it".
I said Ok, and got out the camera. She turned around, sat practically
on the drivers shoulder and I took the photo. The photos came out
good, but the flash sort of kills the atmosphere, as it lights
everything up.
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I spent last night working on my photos, which I hope to upload

today.

I have also got a plan for where to go next. Its a surprise.

Take care,

-Ricardo

May 4th

Subject: Señor Ixchel, meet Señor Juan Valdez

Current Location - Cartagena, Colombia
Local Currency - Peso (2800p = $1us)
Language - Spanish
Temperature - 90ish & muggy. Hot. Really really hot.
Song defining this leg of the trip - Three Strange Days -
School of Fish

Man, this city is so amazing, so sexy, so everything, that I

want to write about it now, but I shant. I will go in
chronological order. :)

Which takes us back to Panama City. Panama City being as

big as it was, I decided to use it as a place to get a few
things that I might need, and of course a few that I might
not. Shopping in Panama City is a bit strange for tourists.
Other Central American countries are like this, but Panama
was the worst: As a tourist walking in, you are instantly
locked in the cross-hairs of the storepeople. They make no
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secret of the fact they are following you. In fact, they walk
less than one pace behind you. If you stop and pick
something up, they grab it from you, and ask what size you
need. Even if you are simply browsing, and felt the need to
feel the material. After a little while, I started having fun
with this and would litterally run around the store, get about
10 feet ahead of them, then crouch behind a rack of clothes
and keep running in a squatted positon only to pop up
somewhere else, have them come towards me and we would
repeat the drill. I'd like to say that they found it as funny as
I did, but they didnt. They didnt seem to be annoyed with it
either. It was their job to follow me by a foot, and they were
simply going to do it. I was just trying to point out how silly
that was, but they didn't get it. And they had the "overhead
cams" on their side. Most stores in the US and the rest of the
world have small tinted bubbles on the cieling, which
contain security cameras. These cameras are then operated
by people in a room, looking for shoplifters. Well, in Panama
City, these cams are simply replaced by people atop ladders.
They stand above the store floor and just watch the people.

The other crazy thing about Panama City stores, is that you
can walk down a street with 30 stores, and only find 2 types
of stores. 15 stores are selling the identical clothes, the
other 15 are selling the identical electrical items. You can
even find 2 of the exact same store on the same block, same
name and floor layout and all.

My second to last day in Panama, I decided to head out and

see the canal museum and canal. I expected to just see the
canal, gaze in awe for a couple minutes, then leave. But
instead I stayed for 2 hours, watching the Miraflores locks
move these huge ships up and down 54 feet in the span of
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20 short minutes. The locks were built back 1913 with the
rest of the canal, back when no ships were that big. Today,
boat builders use the lock size as a limit to the largest a ship
can be built, knowing that any larger would prohibit them
from passing the canal. So, you have these enormous locks,
filled with a ship that is litterally a foot to the wall on either
side, and just about reaches end to end. Computer
controlled trains with cables to the ship ensure that the boat
moves along evenly, not banging off the walls. The
observation area is only a few meters away, so you're
standing the shadows of these monsterous ships, and
watching them lower right in front of you. Yeah, I was
impressed.

I had planned on taking care of some other errands my last

day there, but that happened to be May 1. This is the day the
rest of the world celebrates Labor day, and everything is
closed. I guess we Americans just like to be difficult, and
had to pick another day.

Later on that night, we found the hatch to the roof of the

building of the hostel open, and decided to go up to check it
out. It was amazing. We had a 360 degree view of the city,
and from what I could see, we looked to be in the exact
center. I celebrated my last night in Central America on the
rooftop of a hostel in a high-rise, overlooking the city of
Panama City. I wouldnt have had it any other way. I had one
of those moments when all the conversation becomes
background static, and you stare out at all around you and
just smile feeling blessed to be alive to enjoy a moment like
this.
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After a hour long fiasco trying to mail my package the next

day, I headed out for the airport. Gal, an Isralie guy also
headed to Cartagena and I shared a taxi with another
person headed to the airport. Gal had found a direct flight,
whereas mine had a 4 hour layover in Bogota. I hate
layovers.

I guess I should elaborate on what made me decide to come

to Colombia. Flights to Europe were $900, flights to
Australia were $2600, and flights to Quito, Equador were
$260. For an extra $30 I could stop by Cartagena. So that
had a lot to do with it. But I also dont know if I will get to
come back to this part of the planet anytime soon. Who
knows where I will end up when this crazy adventure is all
over. I was here and close now, and knew that if I skipped
South America entirely, I would regret it, even moreso than
if I raced through it. Which is the plan. Cross the continent
in a short 2 months, and be in Europe in time for Running of
the Bulls (July 6) and a freinds wedding in Italy (July 13th).

But why Colombia? Isnt it dangerous? Maybe a little, but

with an extra measure of caution, its reasonably safe. By the
time I had gotten to Panama, I had met a couple people who
had been here, and said it was fine, provided you keep your
wits about you. I think that gave it even more of a mystique
to me, and made me want to see it even more. Colombia also
brings a different breed of traveler. Its hard to pin down the
difference, but in a word, I guess you could say travelers
here are just a bit more intense.

When I was boarding my flight, the check-in attendant

asked me "How is your last name pronounced, Mr Ixchel?".
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Excuse me? Turns out, when I handed my student ID to the

lady at the travel agent so she could copy my name, she
thought my last name was the name of the school where I
studied Spanish, Ixchel, and my first name being
Rickertjames. Señor Rickertjames Ixchel. Normally, even the
slightest spelling error on a ticket in the US will cause a
posse of rent-a-cops and airport officials to come running to
rectify the situation. Here its no problem. I would have given
my drivers licence to the lady at the travel agency, but I
destroyed it while using it to scrape surfboard wax off my
board in Bocas, which I thougth was a rather piognant
statement, using what was once my defining piece of
identification to scrape surfboard wax.

Anyhoot.... my layover in Bogota turned out to be a bit of a

blessing. Because my flight from Panama was international,
and my flight to Cartagena was domestic, I had to change
terminals, and effectively exit the airport and pass customs.
However, my bag transferred directly. That meant I was
outside the airport without the burden of my backpack, free
to wander. Right on.

I struck up a deal with a cabbie to take me around the city

for 3 hours. You cant get much of a feel for a city in 3 hours.
Its about the same as looking at a series of postcards. But
Bogota is an amazing, beautiful and modern city. The
presidential palaces are in the center of the city, unchanged
for 200 some years, and same with the churches, nessled
right in with the skyscrapers. A horse drawn wagon is a
perfectly acceptable means of getting around the city
streets, amid busses and motorcycles in a city about as
congested as New York city. The motorcyclists on the other
hand, all have death wishes. They weave through traffic
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without the slightest care in the world, and often share a

lane with a car or bus, just millimeters from it. Their only
saving grace is that they are all required to wear orange
vests with their licence place number sewed on it in
reflective tape.

I got in to Cartagena at 7:30 at night. I never like getting in

to cities at night, its just a little disorientating. I don't think
I was mentally prepared for it either. Part of me just
assumed that it would be just like one of any number of
cities I visited in Central America. It wasnt. The streets were
filled with people, and the traffic just drives right through
them slowly, ocassionaly nudging someone. Its like a little
party in the streets, but without the festiveness, if that
makes sense.

I got to my hotel, settled in, and met up with Gal. We ended

up heading out to a boxing match he had heard about earlier
in the day. It was part of the Central American games.
Basically, the same athletes these countries send to the
olympics, they send to these games, as its just as (if not
more) important to them. To be the best athlete against
their rival neighboring countries. Basically, countries from
Central America, Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela, and for
some reason Canada are invited. Canada is a little north to
be considered Central American, isnt it? Anyway, the
matches were amazing. Some really good competition.
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Afterwards, we headed out to a bar down by the waterfront,

outside the wall. The city of Cartagena is basically divided by
the city outside the wall, and inside the wall. Back in the
days when the Spanish occupied Colombia, they used
Cartagena as a port to transport gems from the new world
back to Spain, and as such, a protective wall was built
around the city in the 1500s. After the city was attacked and
plundered, the wall was made even bigger. Its an amazing
thing to behold. An entire city surrounded by a massive wall
about 10 stories tall, probably 100 meters thick, and lined
with cannons and massive elaborate watchtowers.
Eventually, as the city grew, and things calmed down, the
city grew outside the wall too.

We didnt stay at the bar long, as Friday isnt really the night
people go out in Cartagena, as much as Saturday is.

I spent Saturday walking around the city with some friends.

In the afternoon, I headed back to my hotel and after a
quick nap to beat the afternoon heat, I headed out to grab a
bite to eat. My friends were at another hotel, so I just
headed down my street, and went in to the first place I saw.
I grabbed a table near the door and waited for my food. All
of a sudden, I heard angry shouting in the street. I looked
out, and there were two men having an argument. Everyone
was watching, and so was I. One guy takes out a knife, and
starts waiving it at the guy in a taunting manner. The other
guy just kept shouting at him, despite the fact he was one
knife short of being this guys equal, possibly because he had
what appeared to be the crowd behind him. Things kept
getting heated. There is something slightly unnerving about
being the only tourist around in a situation like this. As a
caucasion, one really sticks out here. To the point where I
126

am stared at most places I go. I am usually with other

people, so I feel somewhat safe. But now, what went from
just a half a block walk to the eatery nearest my hotel was
now putting me in front of a fight on the streets of
Cartagena, clearly out of my place. The thought of actually
running back to the hotel at that moment did cross my mind,
but I really dont think there was much danger at all, and
might have drawn some unessary attention to the scaredy-
cat tourist guy sprinting off. In fact, the lady sitting just
outside the resturant selling lottery tickets didnt really even
pay the situation that much mind. As the guy with the knife
walked off, he gave me a second look, but just the way
everyone else here does. I pretended to be as uninterested
as the rest of the folks around. But it did send a small squirt
of adrenaline to the old ticker. :)

That night, I met up with Gal, some other friends and a local
guy we had met named Carlos. Carlos knew of a bar having a
party which he thought would be pretty good. And it was.
This bar was atop the wall. Possibly one of the most amazing
settings I have ever seen for a bar. High above the old city,
on the corner of the wall, facing the Atlantic Ocean. You sit
there with your drinks, leaning on a cannon which has been
there for 300 some years, while the DJ puts on his show
from the DJ booth inside one of the old watchtowers above
the dance floor. It was amazing. The party was put on by a
group called CreamUK. Cream is probably one of the most
well known clubs/promoters in the world. Most of their
clubs are in the UK and Ibiza, Spain. However, in this
outdoor club atop the historic wall of Cartagena, they have
some of the best DJs in the world. In fact, one of my favorite
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DJs ever, Paul Van Dyk, is coming in July. We headed to an

afterparty once the place shut down, but by 4:30am, we
were all ready to call it a night.

Which takes us to today. Carlos is coming by at some point,

and we're going to head out to the beach. My flight leaves
for Quito on Tuesday, but I really wish I had longer here.
This city is so amazing, so exotic, I really wish I could stay.

I also have to recind my award for the best busses, from

Panama, now to Colombia. Columbia has the most incredible
busses, but its the parties inside them that really does it.
About 10% of the busses you see, will have something that
really does resemble a disco inside it. Strobe lights, mirrors,
faux fur, disco balls, fuzzy animals, LOTS of dancing lights,
and blaring music. Usually, the outsides are similarly
adorned, with lots of flashing lights. It looks like a ride at a
fair, you know the ones painted with specled paint and
having a lightbulb on every possible surface. Yeah, thats
about it.

Ok, I have really been on far too long. Hope all is well with
you,

-Ricardo

May 8th

Subject: Mas Español, por favor.

Current Location - Quito, Equador (Quito starts on next
webpage)
Local Currency - Dollar ($1e = $1us) Uses US bills
128

Language - Spanish
Temperature - 70ish & cool.
Song defining this leg of the trip - All Star - Smashmouth

Ahh, Cartagena. Where else is the big bushy moustace so in

style. Where else can men go to a club wearing an all white
cotton outfit, shirt unbuttoned, white shoes to match, and
be really cool. Yeah, there was something magical about
that city.

I ended up heading out to one of the beaches in Cartagena

with Carlos, Gal and a couple other guys from the hostel.
Carlos was one of the nicer people I had met on my travels.
He loved to talk about his country, he loved to show you
interesting things, introduce you to all of his friends. To say
that he would give you the shirt off if his back is not a lie. I
mentioned at one point that I liked the shirt he was wearing,
and he said he'd be happy to trade it for any shirt I wanted,
as it would be easy for him to get another one.

And the rest of the crew I met were great people. It was
nice to meet a bunch of males to head out with. I have
enjoyed meeting and traveling with everyone that I went
through Central America with, but for the most part, they
were females or couples. Its good to get together with a
good group of guys for some serious king-kong style chest
pounding and crude joke swapping. :)

The entire time I was in Cartagena, I saw a total of 8

westerners. 6 I knew, the other 2 I passed on the street and
heard them speaking english. The majority of the people
who travel there know good spanish, and because there are
so few travelers, none of the locals really speak much
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english, except for Carlos who teaches it. So, through

meeting his friends, and hanging with travelers speaking
Spanish, my Spanish improved more in 4 days in Cartagena,
than I'd say it did in the average month in Central America
where the safety of English speaking hostels never forced
me to learn. It was sort of like a drug. I started really
thirsting for more. I told Carlos that I now planned to study
at least another week while in Ecuador. Quito is as jam-
packed with language schools as Antigua was. Carlos offered
to teach me for a day if I wanted to come to his school, but
it never worked out.

There is a bit of a catch 22 when it comes to visiting a place

like Cartagena for the budget traveler. Its not really the kind
of city you want to walk alone in, so you want to meet
people. The people you want to meet are backpackers.
Backpackers are budget travelers. Budget hotels are always
smack in the worst part of town. So, in order to get the
safety of a group, you need to place yourself in the bad part
of town.

I went shopping in the old part of town (the good part) and
was looking for a patch to sew on to my bag. I have one in
every country so far. As much as I could gather, there was
only one shop that sold patches. I found it, and sure enough,
they sold patches. American flags, American military badges,
American FD or PD badges. Nothing that had anything to do
with Colombia. Nothing.

Gal and I went out to a bar in the old city my last night
there. Being a tourist makes you a bit of an attraction, and
meeting people is inevitable. For the fist time since learing
Spanish, I had someone I was talking to tell me that my
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Spanish was good. I thought about all the times I told

someone their English was good, and they denied it, just as I
did, but I remembered how it made them smile, as it just
made me.

I really thought about changing my flight to stay longer. In

the end, I knew I needed to get going, and the cost to
change the flight was about the cost of the flight.

Colombia propbably has the strictest airport security I have

ever seen. My checked luggage was searched piece by piece,
as was everyones. No fuss about the underwear this time.
After that, there were 4 separate checkpoints you had to
pass.
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http://www.talesofasia.com/rs-10-afghanistan-not.htm

readers' submissions

I wasn't going to Afghanistan

by Christine Dimmock
September 2003

If I wasn't going to Afghanistan, what, then, am I doing wet to the waist, squatting
beside an Afghan woman in a burqa on the flat rounded stones of a riverbed at dusk,
somewhere in the Hindu Kush. The sun is quickly disappearing, a few solitary men
can be seen kneeling in the half dark on improvised mats for evening prayer and the
impious sounds of klaxon horns echo around the valley as an endless procession of
luridly decorated trucks churns its way around the bend preceded by dusty headlight
beams at crazy angles.

I share some naan bread with the woman. It's a comforting, gesture. In Dari, she
leaves me in no doubt of her opinion of our taxi driver who has stalled the Corolla in
river water deep enough to cover the seats. I wonder if my backpack is now floating
in the boot. At the second attempt, a passing truck pulls the taxi from the water. I
mentally toss around the options of how one would go about sleeping the night here.
It doesn't bear thinking about. So I turn my attention to Gordon Sharpless, the reason
I'm here in the first place.

Normally I go to Cambodia or Laos or Vietnam. I adore giggly Cambodians, electric

green rice fields and ponds of pink waterlilies - but on reading Gordon's account of
his visit to Afghanistan, I became obsessed. I read about a country of friendly people
emerging from a long period of war, a country just like Cambodia in UNTAC times.
Afghanistan is right next to Pakistan and Kashmir - some of the world's most
dangerous places. I like to travel alone and women don't do that in Afghanistan.
Friends said quizzically "Afghanistan? What's there? There was some doubt about
whether I could get travel insurance. I booked the ticket anyway.

So now I'm here, heading for Mazar E Sharif via the alternate route, because in
September, the Salang Tunnel is completely closed for the finishing touches to its
132

refurbishment by the Turkish Govenrnment. It's a marathon journey. The road is

unsurfaced and narrow, clinging precariously to mountainsides and used by
hundreds of trucks, along with the Corolla taxis and Hi-Ace vans. There are
monumental log-jams of vehicles which the Afghans patiently unravel. Vans drive
into ditches and several trucks have overturned on hairpin bends. Fine choking dust
permeates all.

We leave Kabul at 8am and spend the daylight hours following the detour west
instead of driving north. My companions in the back seat are the Afghan woman and
her twenty-something son who speaks a little English. At one point, the traffic jam is
so bad that I'm invited to walk down the road and socialise with their relatives in a
nearby field. This means I get to sit with a group of colourful, unveiled Hazara women
and their children. They all want to be photographed. I wave smugly to the occupants
of two large white UN Land Rovers. They're not supposed to leave their vehicles.
Personally, I'm certain that security is better in my field.

The taxi stops for lunch at a chaikana in a stunning location beside a river. Men sit
cross-legged on the carpet while food and chai is placed on a strip of plastic in front
of them. They look out over the river. The Afghan woman and I are ushered into a
room with high fabric walls. We can't see out and the men can't see in. Previously at
chaikanas I've been treated as an honorary man and I can't believe that at the most
beautiful one of all, I've been locked away. Resigned, I wave my camera hopefully at
the Afgan woman. She obligingly folds back her burqa and carefully ties a pretty
white headscarf in it's place, posing with poise and dignity. Her lined face shows
strength and determination. I've captured the story of a life in a snapshot - a life I can
only guess at despite my intellectual knowledge. I decline the offer to share the
cooked chicken she and her son have brought with them for the long journey.

But back to the river, dusk and the broken down taxi in the Hindu Kush. Vehicles can
somehow be fixed anywhere in Afghanistan and so it transpires. We pile back into
the sodden seats and drive off. Water swirls around our feet. My companions
unceremoniously pull the headrests out of the front seats and sit on them. I sit on the
plastic garbage bag I use to keep my camera dry. It's dark now and the son goes to
sleep on his mother's bosom. The mother goes to sleep on me, the front seat
passenger reclines his seat into what was left of my personal space and closes his
eyes. I notice the taxi driver checking out my reactions with a wry smile. No problem
is my travel motto. No problem, no @#$% problem.

After a claustrophobic half-hour, I burst out "You can't all lie on me. Get off. I'm not
strong enough to support the lot of you". The woman and her son grudgingly readjust
their sleeping positions, the front seat passenger ignores me, and 5 minutes later,
133

everyone falls back against me again. How many hours? How many hours can I
possibly put up with this? This is their life.

Because the interior of the taxi is saturated, condensation covers all the windows and
the driver peers through a small oval he has dried on the windscreen with the sleeve
of his shalwaar kameez. I assume responsibility as the only other person in the
vehicle awake, although it's unclear what difference this makes, because mercifully, I
can't see the road. The sound of rushing water reminds me there's still a sheer drop
on one side or the other. It's like driving across the surface of the moon without a
map. All I can see through the small oval are clouds of dust, blinding truck
headlights, giant boulders and menacing mountainside silhouettes. The ubiquitous
abandoned Russian tanks are out there as well - enduring monuments to futility.

In the dark, late at night, we stop at a couple of checkpoints. Who or what is being
checked and whether or not money is changing hands is unclear. I wonder whether
this is a dangerous time to be a foreign woman travelling alone and huddle
anonymously in my corner.

Mercifully, unexpectedly, we stop for the night. I can't believe my luck knowing that
often the vehicles continue on with the same driver at the wheel for 19 hours or
more. Stiff, wet and cold, I stagger to a room above a chaikana with the Afghan
woman and her son. Hot green tea appears along with two thin mattresses and a
pillow. Luxury! I ask for my backpack from the boot of the taxi but for some unknown
reason, I can't have it. Now I'm determined to go to the toilet. The son pretends he
doesn't understand, but after a session with the phrase book, he gives in and we all
troop downstairs and across the road to two unsavoury rooms with hessian bags for
doors. My knees obligingly hold out long enough to prevent a disaster, the mud floor
doesn't collapse into the pit, I don't drop my torch down the hole or step in anything
revolting. No problem. Blissful sleep beckons.

Back upstairs, I take off my headscarf, wind it around my freezing feet and sleep on
the carpet with the mattress on top of me as a blanket. The Afghans have kindly
insisted I have the only pillow. During the night, two small groups of men attempt to
enter the room (presumably to sleep). The son doesn't even stir, but the mother
sends them packing in no uncertain terms, though the room could sleep about 50
people.

Long before dawn I am gently awoken and herded back into the wet taxi. When the
sun rises, we're out of the mountains on a sealed road approaching the steppes. The
taxi stops. Afghans never tell you about changes to your travel plans until they
happen. This taxi is going to Kunduz, not Mazar E Sharif, so I need to change to a
new taxi here.
134

Ah. No problem. I am seated in the front seat of the new taxi, because of course, a
woman can't sit next to the young Afghan men in the back. After stopping to change
a disintegrating tyre, we settle in to enjoy the long drive across open steppe country.
It's different - different in a beautiful way. They stop to buy me a bag of grapes,
carefully washed three times in water from the nearest irrigation ditch. At the next
stop, Kholm, the road to Ruske (Russia) is pointed out to me. One of the young men
goes into a roadside stall and returns with a bottle of vodka which they unveil with
cheeky smiles. (Alcohol deprived foreigners take note).

Our next stop is for more fruit. Real fruit - peaches bursting with flavour and juice,
miniature pears and best of all, figs. The figs come packaged in an appealing way
nestled inside what looks like a solid wreath made from fresh leafy branches. As we
drive, I delve inside pulling out more and more figs to share.

Arriving in Mazar, the three young men quickly disappear and we circumnavigate the
Shrine of Hazarat Ali looking for my hotel. The taxi driver stops to ask an ISAF
soldier parked in a jeep. In perfect English, he answers "I don't speak English". After
a second drive around the shrine, we discover he was parked right next to the hotel,
which has an unmarked entrance in an alley. Relaxing at last in my room, I pull out
another fig and wonder just what I've been putting in my mouth. This fig is adorned
with a large white bird dropping. I spend the next two days confined to bed.

At the hotel, I'm reunited with some younger English friends who made the marathon
road trip a couple of days earlier. My principal activity in Mazar revolves around
getting back to Kabul by plane. None of us wants to tackle that road, those drivers,
the trucks and all that dust again so soon. As all the internal flights in Afghanistan are
fully booked, getting a seat requires patience and perserverence. In fact, I only get
one because Tim sacrifices his reservation for me. (Two days later I meet him in
Chicken Street and learn that he went to visit the Turks, did some fast talking and
was allowed to travel through the Salang Tunnel in a jeep with an escort).

At the Mazar airport, we wait for an interminable time, first inside and later outside.
Eventually the reason for the delay becomes apparent as a dark grey Hercules
lands, disgorging some uniformed men who are quickly driven away in waiting
vehicles. The highlight of the day is watching the Hercules take off again because it
banks at an impossible angle with the nearby mountains as a spectacular backdrop.
A week later, safe at home, I learn that a girls' school was torched and there was
fighting between the men of rival warlords just north of Mazar while I was there.
Security is a relative word in Afghanistan - relative to whether or not one encounters
a problem!!
135

Footnote: Information for women travellers

Travelling as a middle aged woman in Asia is usually a liberating experience. In

Afghanistan, I was treated as a third gender and looked after. In cities, I walked freely
alone around bazaars and public areas, although I passed on the alleyways. In Kabul
when I headed off to walk up the hill which can be seen from the front of the Mustafa
Hotel, two Afghan men advised me against it, so I turned back. When I sat in the taxi
for the marathon journey to Mazar, several people came along to make sure I knew
what I was letting myself in for.

"The toilet" remains a challenge on the road. Afghan women just don't go. I learned
that an interrogatory cough is used to enquire whether the toilet is occupied or not
and a loud cough indicates that it is. The sudden appearance of an Afghan man still
fiddling with the pants of his shalwaar kameez indicates that he's realised a woman is
inexplicably approaching. On one occasion I was constantly urged to hurry up, but
the taxi wasn't ready to leave - they just wanted to get the woman out of the toilet.

A friendly smile and good manners were always appreciated, since the Afghans
themselves indulge in warm and prolonged greeting rituals with friends and family.
An exaggerated refusal to make eye contact accounted for the odd individual who
would walk persistently beside me. When I stopped in the street for some reason -
usually to photograph something specific - a crowd of men would quickly form
necessitating some rapid photographic work and a moving on. Otherwise they may
have decided that I was not just an entertaining foreigner, but, in fact "Nine parts of
desire".

On one occasion I had the experience of walking along a busy Kabul street with a
confident, modern young Afghan woman who wore a headscarf but no burqa. I was
used to being stared at, but the intensity and nature of the staring undergone by this
woman left me in no doubt as to why the majority of the female population still cover
up completely. This may well apply to young Western women walking alone as I
didn't actually see any - except in Chicken Street!
136

http://www.geocities.com/ribbits42/mali.html

Day 1 - Departing USA

My boss and I thought we had prepared appropriately for someone to cover

my duties while I was away and got a lady very well suited (open, warm, all
that). Of course, she was so awesome she got herself another job the
afternoon before she was supposed to start temping with us so the day of my
trip I was back at the office training another guy (who incidentally only
temped one day until he had to move on to other things and had to train
someone else).

My flight headed out at 7:20 pm so Jean and I were at the airport at 3:15
pm. Yep, that "3 hours in advance" was really necessary--check-in took all
of 3 minutes. And a very uneventful and mostly-boring flight got me to
Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire 3 hours late at 10:30 pm Saturday, January 26. Being
on a full 747 made waiting for luggage (in my case, a 3 kilogram empty cat
carrier for Susan's kitty, Njimba, in Gabon) 45 minutes.

I do need to add that if you have the chance to fly over the Sahara in a
window seat in the daytime, I highly recommend it. Around 5:30 pm the
shores of Sudan came into view and the beautiful white Alps and winter
fields of Europe became a dark brown expanse south of the Mediterranean.
Watching from above, the dark brown gradually became lighter and lighter;
the fertile lands marked by geometric patterns showed themselves only
randomly; what were large rivers became silty river beds; and evidence of
civilization only represented by a few thin dirt roads that shot out in one
unwavering direction.
From above I could see so many different dune formations: lines and lines
then funny bubbles of sand then finger-like pockmarks over flatlands;
ripples the size of cliffs; ripples so reticulated they resembled tripe (stomach
lining of cows). Then suddenly, circular crops with a line extending from
137

the center like a radius. Three of them, how bizarre! And remnants of
rectangular houses. And we're still in Algeria, what an enormous country!

Day 2 - Arrival in Côte d'Ivoire

Having been forwarned that Côte d'Ivoire is having some post-coup issues,
we were a little nervous about gendarmie attitudes towards two American
women. Susan was able to spend all morning in Abidjan and felt it was
pretty safe. So we opted to get a good view of Côte d'Ivoire by taking a bus
north through the middle to Bamako, Mali. Good idea if you're not
claustophobic.

Day 4 - Travelling Across Côte d'Ivoire

Two long days of gendarmie stops (23 in all) later, we found ourselves at
the border in Pogo, Côte d'Ivoire. Out of these 23 stops, the gendarmes
entered the bus 21 times. You can imagine how much time that takes. And
it's usually the same people who were pulled off for having insufficient
paperwork (they were lost yesterday; burned in a fire; taking the bus to Mali
to redo the papers... you name it, someone probably had that excuse).

* The man sitting next to us was constantly being pulled for only having
a photocopy. Susan finally pried him and he said he didn't trust the police
and felt it smarter to leave the original at home and take a photocopy, even
though he would get stopped more often.
* Another guy looked about 30 and was showing his school ID. Some
gendarmies let it slide, others pulled him off and tried to get a bribe off him.
* We met a Liberian woman who was very nice but seemed to be rusty
on her French and I don't believe she had all her papers so was pulled off
almost every time. Susan and I guess that she was running away from the
war. She had brought a small stash of gold nuggets/dust to sell--that's the
reason she gave for being in Côte d'Ivoire. I think it was more complicated
than that. She said to cross the Liberia/Côte d'Ivoire border, the gendarmes
took 1/2 her gold as a bribe.
138

* Another man was complaining that they made him strip to his
underwear because they didn't believe he had no money to pay his bribe,
and they were right--I think they ended up finding the money in his socks?
* Susan and I were only pulled off twice. Once to be dragged (hit on)
and the other time we weren't quite sure, maybe just a random collection of
passports? Neither posed problems and we definitely weren't the people
holding up the bus in the end. I have to add that I felt a definite contempt
from some of the ladies that we were treated so well. One of the ladies even
said "Serra vous le prochain" (It'll be you next) after she had spent 20
minutes getting her papers back from the gendarmes. She was right, the next
stop we were pulled off. I certainly missed the comradery we had on bush
taxis in Gabon.

With 8 hours to kill until the next bus came, we tried to rehydrate ourselves
with 2 1.75 liter bottles, then spent 100 CFA (10 cents?) for bucket baths. I
had originally opted to save 25 CFA and go for the 1/2 bucket but then the
idea of washing my hair was just too tempting. This was our first time we
had to pay to use water(25 CFA for plastic teapot, 75 for 1/2 bucket, 100 for
bucket), but I tell you it was worth it after 18 hours in a hot dusty bus.

Pogo is a pretty town. Just south of the Mali/Côte d'Ivoire a couple

kilometres there was some evidence of border-activities (bus stations,
transport trucks) it was really a typical sleepy town and we were very happy
to take a break from the road to watch the world slowly turn in Pogo. After
a short sweaty nap in the shade I headed out to find Susan who had
wandered off, not being able to sleep in the heat. Being different comes in
handy quite frequently and I soon passed a teenager who asked if I was
looking for my sister. Must have stuck out in the crowd. Soon found her
exploring the village and joined up with my camera.

We found graineries grouped between their houses. These clay/sand-slabbed

cylindrical structures were removed from the ground by logs and/or large
rocks; each was accessible by a small padlocked window near the straw-
139

covered roof. Met a group of girls who were selling mandarines

(mandarin-bé). Susan tried to strike up a conversation but fell onto the
same problem. They spoke their dialect, not French, so we were left with
the old faithful--gesturing wildly--to determine what they were carrying on
their heads. Follow this link to my grainery photos.

Having rehydrated ourselves sufficiently and feeling dustily-clean (did you

know you can feel that way?) after the bucket baths, we headed back to the
bus area and heard someone call out "Vous voulez une boisson?" (Do you
want a drink). If I were alone I wouldn't have even answered, my typical
response to strange men offering drinks, but feeling the support of Susan
with me and realizing we hadn't had a beer for two days, we joined them. It
was very nice but I was hesitant to be drinking too near our time of
departure. The worst feeling is having to pee and not being able to get off
the bus.

I originally was seated next to a very devout older Muslim who would be
spending the entire trip fingering his prayer necklace and mumbling the
verses. That would have made for a very tiring night and, although he was
very courteous and made sure no part of his body or clothing touched me, I
felt it had something to do with me being either American or female or both.
Fortunately Susan had a seat next to her and I was able to move on our first
stop. I think I had the best seat. Susan controlled the window so we actually
had air coming in and I could prop my feet up on the spare tire and excess
baggage. Well, unlike our past experiences, the bus took off when it was
scheduled to and, sleeping most of the night, we arrived at 6 am south of
Bamako at Sogoniko, the main bus area for trips heading east in the interior
of Mali. Boy, were we happy to have arrived in Mali finally!
140

Travelogue
Karakoram Highway
1994
Erik Futtrup
E-mail:
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Erik Futtrup,

Summary:
A trip along the Karakoram Highway in northern Pakistan. The road goes
through some of the most spectacular areas in the world, and the people are
among the friendliest I have ever met. Not many tourists have come here
yet, even though it is not that difficult to get here. I met quite a few travelers
who had come through China. I spend about 5-10$ per day.

Guide books:
"Karakoram Highway - the high road to China. A Travel Survival Kit". May
1993. Hereafter referred to as the TSK. I also brought the Pakistan Travel
Survival kit, but it was not that necessary, though it had some good trekking
maps of these areas. [Note: New editions of this book is available]

Costs:
1US$ = 30.1rs = 6.25DKR
Flights: Copenhagen-Muscat-Karachi-Islamabad: 1000$,
Islamabad-Gilgit-Islamabad: 77$
Rooms: 50-290rs (most of them could hold two)
Bread: 2rs, Dinner: 30-100rs, Coca Cola: 5-10rs (cold)
1 1/2l Bottle Water: 20rs
141

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Friday 16. September - Aarhus-Copenhagen (Denmark) I got my master's

degree in Computer Science and Math at Aarhus University Tuesday
morning; got a job 12pm (starting from 3.october), and bought the ticket to
Pakistan in the afternoon. Today I got my passport back with the visa (it
took 3 days). In the evening, I took my backpack on my shoulders and my
trekking booths on my feet, and walked to the place where my graduation
party was held. I have some very good friends who gave the party, and after
a great evening with good food and fun with the friends, they followed me
to the night train to Copenhagen.

Saturday 17. September - Copenhagen-Frankfurt-Doha-Muscat Not much

else happened, but flying, waiting, standing in line, etc. It reminded me of
the Terry Pratchet definition of an airport: a place where people hurry up
and wait.
I flew with Gulf Air, and we even got a menu-card before dinner! That was
kind of nice.

Sunday 18. September - Muscat-Karachi-Islamabad Amazing that I

actually caught all the flights! I even got out of International Karachi, and
into Domestic without being trapped by the 1000 touts/taxi-drivers - and
with my luggage. Only problem was that I forgot that they are crazy about
batteries here, so those I had just bought in Muscat airport were confiscated
:-( Changed 50$ - rate 1$=30.1rs=6.25DKR

Was totally dead on the second flight to Islamabad, and it really made my
day that I didn't get on the Gilgit flight! While asking what to do at the
information, a taxi driver agreed to drive me to the PIA flight office 'in
town', where I was directed to (I'm sure he would have been willing to drive
me to anyplace in Pakistan). You have to have your name on a list made the
day before the flight and I'm not sure that you can get on it 'from back
home'. When we got to his cab, I automatically reached for the safety belt,
which was not there. The driver gave me a BIG smile, and said slowly while
shaking his head: "In Pakistan - no safety belts :-)". There was no problem
142

having my ticket changed for the next morning. I get off next door at the
Paradise Inn (275rs for a single room). Buy the obligatory Pakistani dress (a
shalwar quamiz), which is baggy trousers (15 sized to big) tied with a string,
and a shirt which reached below the knees. Great in the heat, and it is easy
to hide your pouches below.

The hotel restaurant had made arrangements for 100 on the roof, and the 3
cooks and two waiters were ready for ... me. Well, I just wanted a soup, and
to go to bed... (I felt a bit sorry for them).

Monday 19. September - Islamabad-Gilgit Up at 5.30am, on my way at 6;

a taxi to the airport (60rs), no problem with the flight this time. They had
put in an extra plane, so two flights were scheduled for Gilgit. Met two girls
who had been traveling 6 months in Pakistan and India. Glad I missed the
flight yesterday; it is perhaps the most fantastic, adventurous, fascinating,
incredible experience I have ever had. Couldn't believe that the mountains
just kept getting bigger and higher for more than an hour. Around Nanga
Prabat (8126m), we were flying BELOW the mountains and looking up at
them! If you have seen the movie '7 years in Tibet', it is the mountain they
are climbing at the start. Great flight - don't miss it for the 17 hour drive
instead. Be sure to have a window seat - on the right side. Met a British
couple going to visit friend around Gilgit. Some foreign girls had actually
bought veils, which might be a good idea. The 3 of us had decided us for the
Hunza Inn, and a nice surprise was that the first persons we met outside the
airport, were hotel staff from the Hunza Inn, so we got a free ride there.
Good service. Got a single room for 100rs. Several trekking places wanted
me to go on 2-300$ treks - for just a few days. Checked for White Water
River Rafting. :-( Needed at least 4 people. 25$ for a half day trip. Could
have been fun. In the afternoon I went on a trip from 11am to 4pm. (The
Kargah Buddha & Kargah Nala, mentioned p.144 in TSK) Took a 3rs bus to
Kargah, an easy walk to the Buddha carved in the rocks. Well, I couldn't see
it until some friendly people showed where it was. Walked on the high road
to Napur and down to Gilgit. The road cruises at 1440m. Gilgit is at about
1200m. Very nice and pleasant walk. Nice view of the peaks around the
valley and of the Rakaposhi (at 7790m).
143

Tuesday 20. September - Gilgit-Sost (or Sust) I was told to be at the bus
stand at 7.30 for the 8.00 bus to Sost. Well, I had time for breakfast first; to
buy stamps (11rs to Denmark), before the bus finally left at 10am. I guess it
wasn't too bad. Only 100rs for the trip to the last town before the Chinese
border.

How can I keep being amazed like this? Then the fantastic scenery started...
I had thought Gilgit was amazing, but it is NOTHING compared to the
views in the Hunza valley (or the fabled Shangri-la, as some say). Had
thought the flight was the most beautiful experience of my life - but no - the
bus trip kept on astonishing me. I don't know what adjectives to use! Picture
yourself at 1500m, looking straight up at 6-7000m high 'things' (mountain
peaks) - that is 6 kilometers, for your information! I felt ashamed of myself
to ever had sighed at Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon, the Rundetaarn, the Eiffel
tower, CN-Tower - all less than 1km. Or like the highest place in Denmark,
Himmelbjerget, which is 150m - that is 1/40 the height of this! Well, I don't
have words to describe these wonders of the world, and unfortunately the
pictures are not good at it either.

Close to Karimabad, a truck had turned over just 5 minutes before we

arrived as the first persons. The truck hanged out over the rim - 400m
straight down! The driver was all right, but imagine the experience:
Hanging over the edge with your head down, and the truck over you! He
looked a bit shocked though. We had to shovel a lot of dirt and rocks (the
overturning was because of a landslide) before getting on. A bus full of
tourists arrived which didn't make things better (10 Americans with video-
cameras).

One of the most spectacular sights: The Rakaposhi (7790m) from Ghulmet,
Ultar Peak & Bubulimating (the Razor sharp rock) from between Altit and
Ahmedabad where you really can see the steep side of the mountain (from
2000m up at 7400m).
144

From now on it started getting colder. In Sost, I got a room at the Khunjerab
View Hotel (everybody with the TSK had filled the Mountain Refuge
Hotel) for 125rs. Went to find out how to get up to the Khunjerab pass to
China for the next day. I had seen a lot of tourists at the Refuge, and went
into the dining hall to ask whether any of them were going. I had luck; a
Belgian couple had rented a jeep for the next day, and I was welcome to join
them! Got dinner back at my hotel. Met 3 people who had just arrived from
China. It was very interesting to hear their stories; it seems everything is
much more expensive, and people are much more unfriendly in China. I'm
glad I'm only traveling in Pakistan. The ride from Kashgar had been pretty
interesting; taking lot of pictures in the mountains of wild flocks of camels,
horses, yaks, sheep and cows. Wow! It was Miguel from Spain, and Lynn &
Matthew from England (had worked 2 years in Hong Kong).

Wednesday 21. September - Sost-Khunjerab Pass-Sost

Strange, I don't know what Pakistani women look like - and I've been here
for more than half a week! I've seen a few on the road above Gilgit, and in
the Cliff-town of Sost, and they are real colorful with make-up and beautiful
dresses. All for their husbands (and other women). When I looked around in
the Bazaars and in the town streets: Men only! Also, when a western couple
spoke with a male Pakistani, and the woman asks and comments, it is easy
to see that the Pakistani is a bit uncomfortable. I think the western woman
should bear that in mind, and let the male do the talking :-) Some of the
people I met had asked many times for permission to take their picture - and
had always gotten an No for an answer.

Met with the Belgian couple (they were 60-years old 'travelers') at their
hostel, and had breakfast with them. TSK-Update: MountainRefuge Hotel:
It seems every foreigner goes there first (everybody have the TSK) - and it
isn't so great as the book says - they serve really bad food (according to the
people who stayed there).

Started in our jeep at 8.45. The pass is 80 km from Sost, and there are no
villages or towns on the way. No problem at the check-post. They didn't
keep our passports like the TSK mentions. The first rock slide was 10
145

minutes up the road. The first part along the Hunza river is in the very
narrow gorges, and goes up kilometers; very beautiful - and a bit dangerous.
While we were waiting to have the road cleared, we spoke with the post-
man who were going to China every day with the mail. It turned out he were
going even in the winter! Amazing, there must be just as many rock-slides
in the winter - in addition to the snow. That is service!

The stretch is 80 km, which took about 3 hours. The last 18 km is gaining 2
km of altitude, and you end up in the plains in 4730m. The air is clean, thin,
and cold, and you feel great! You are in the same height as the mountain
peaks north and south, and the plain is grassy with yaks and sheep. We
walked from the Pakistani post and well into China - I went up a slope and
took a picture of my altimeter at 4800m. I was going for 4880m which I
thought was the height of Mt.Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe, but
didn't get over 4800m. Well, I found out when I got back that Mt.Blanc is
'only' 4807m, so, HURRAH! I have been up just as high! Got very
exhausted of running the last stretch, but what can you expect when you are
this high? Nothing uncomfortable, though.

We met the bus coming from China, and a couple of Americans were out
taking pictures. The woman asked if we were going to China? No, we were
just up to see the pass. Hallelujah! she exclaimed. It must have been bad...

You don't have the same grandiose feeling as looking up 8 km high

mountains, but it has it's own special beauty up here, and it is a must to
come here. It is brownish-yellow (it looks like the mountains have lots of
iron ores) and grassy, and the snow is very close. The sky is the very special
'mountain deep blue'(TM). Going down is a bit faster (2 1/2 hours). There is
road maintenance most of the way - it is a fantastic job they are doing,
trying to keep the road clear. A couple of other landslides had happened
since we had come up, and we had to wait a while, while bulldozers were
clearing the road. The road has actually more heavy traffic than I had
expected. On the way down we might have passed 15 vehicles (excluding
those working on the road). 4 busses, and most of the rest were Chinese
lorries with trailers.
146

When we got back, our driver complained that we were 3, and the Belgian
couple had said they would only be two. He had gotten 1000rs for 3
yesterday. We settled for 50rs more than the agreed price of 800rs. It is OK
for 160km in a jeep, I think, 270rs per person. Glad I didn't take the bus -
they go at half the speed, and you don't stop to take pictures.

Went for a walk (in Sost) up to the village, which is on a cliff, so you can't
see it from the KKH. Very nice walk; even saw a couple of women there,
and one of them even said 'Good afternoon'.

Postcard writing, and a good talk with Lynn and Matthew. They had been
working in Hong Kong for two years as a buyer and a lawyer, and had just
gotten married a year ago. Been traveling many places. This time they were
going for a year: China, Pakistan, India - and then to South America.

At 6.30, a whole bunch came from the Mountain Refuge to have dinner here
- instead of the dreadful food from their hotel, as they put it. There is only
one dish here at the Khunerab hotel - chicken curry with cabbage and
potatoes - but it is great. It is also really cozy. No electricity in the towns
(their generator has been down for 14 days), so it is good old oil lamps. The
Belgium couple came too, and also a Dutch guy who cycled up to the Pass -
we met him 18 km from the top. He started at 5.40am and had gotten to the
pass around 1pm. Got a lift back though.

Thursday 22. September - Sost-Passu

My plan was now to work my way back to Gilgit, a bit slower. Together
with Matthew, Lynn and the two Belgians we took the Suzuki the Belgians
had ordered (we passed their hotel at just the right time :-). We paid 300rs
all together for the trip which took 45minutes. We had heard of a new place
- the Village Guesthouse, and we all went there. The others got the two
doubles; I took the dorm (50rs), which turned out to be right in the dining
room. The two next to arrive (a Danish girl and a British guy) also took the
dorm.
147

The two-suspension bridges-tour was highly recommended, and I went on

my way immediately. The tour: (map, page. 106, TSK): Passu-Zarabad-the
two bridges - 3 hours from the second bridge-Hussaini-Borit lake - 1/2 hour
Borit Lake-Passu - after 2 hours I had 20+ pictures left, but they only lasted
to Borit Lake.. so very beautiful.

First: along the river to the first bridge was like 10m over the river on a
footpath on a hillside, 1/2-1m wide. Then the bridge came into view! Wow!
Just like those in Romancing the Stone and Indiana Jones. The bridge spans
150-200m over the river. It is made of cables with planks every 30cm. That
was cool! Crossed the plateau through the Zarabad village. Strange, didn't
see a soul there... Walking on a ledge to the next (even cooler) "bridge" was
fun too. A wind had started blowing, and the ledge is quite high - like 100m
or so, over the river, straight down. Wasn't dangerous anywhere, though.
Around a bend, I eyed the bridge: half of it was gone! Great, I thought; then
I'll have to swing along it! But no, when I got closer, there was another one
right next to it... which was ok. Just when I had crossed, a hunter came
along, and I got a nice picture of him, like the one on the cover of TSK. By
the way; the woman on the cover is living here in Passu, our guest house
owner says. It's a great picture since the women don't let you take
photographs of them - I guess John King didn't ask for permission :-) The
background mountain-peaks were beautiful here in the afternoon sunlight.
The hunter showed me through Hussaini to the path to Borit lake. It goes up
very steeply 150-200m before you reach the lake - which isn't anything
special. When I got to Borit, 3 small boys wanted to guide me (perhaps 7-8
years old). I said I would pay them 1rs. They wanted 100rs - I laughed and
continued on. 30 they yelled. No. After some time they came after me and
told me another direction. I said 10. One of them said 15. I said 10 - OK.
they followed me to the top; pointed down. Talked for a bit, and he got his
10rs. When I got 50m down, the path ended in a hole. Of course the boys
had led me in the wrong directions... Well, I had 2 1/2 hours before sunset,
so I continued north across a rocky landscape and scrambled up a ridge.
Here I luckily found the path again, the Passu Gar trail. There was a great
view of the glacier - there are lots of glaciers here, by the way. 4 glaciers in
Pakistan are more than 20 km - this one was one of them. All white ice.
148

Nice walk down - 300-350m loss of altitude. The trail isn't easily seen from
the KKH.

Was a bit tired when I returned; my stomach had been taken over by
terrorists - they were demanding milk tea. Several other travelers had
arrived; we were like 12 travelers here. All but me and the Belgians were
'long time travelers' (1/2 - 3 years on the road) and had come from China. It
was a nice, very instructive evening. Everybody had a lot of travel info to
share. It is invaluable. An interesting thing is that several of them had been
to Tibet; it seems to be just a money problem, and getting in from the right
direction (best to fly in, worst to come from the west (Kashgar)). Later two
more joined us; they had been on a 4 day trek with a guide/porter for 1500rs
- a 21 year old student. It was a rock bottom price, it seemed. The shepherds
were packing up at the upper summer pastures, and were on their way back
to the lower villages at 3000m.

Trip info: Passu 2600m; Elevation gained: 790m in 6 hours.

Friday 23. September - Passu-Karimabad

Trip: Passu Gar to Passu Glacier.

Good walk up to the Passu Gar (from 2600m to 3250m). Actually, it is the
first time I've been close to a real Glacier. I was a bit tired from yesterdays
walk, so it took 21⁄2 hours to climb up. The last stretch was really hard. The
glacier is like 20 km long, and this area is filled with them. The last climb
was quite hard, and I got exhausted in the thin air. Not that it was a problem,
and the lunch above the glacier was quite nice. I had brought some apples
and chocolate biscuits and a bottle of water. This picture at the start is taken
here.

Got back, and went to the road. Miguel had waited 2 hours this morning, but
the morning bus had had a breakdown, and didn't arrive. Also it was Friday
(the Muslim holiday), so there weren't many vehicles on the road. But I had
hardly taken off my backpack before I got a lift from two young Pakistanis
in a pick-up truck. This was at about 2.30pm. After a couple of stops (by
149

friends places?), we got to Ganesh around 4pm. A jeep gave me a lift (for
free) and put me off at the New Hunza Tourist Hotel. Very basic, but 80rs
for a double was OK. Got at very needed shower - freezing of course. The
place even had electricity at nights. It had its own generator. North of Hunza
valley: No electricity, no hot water, no chocolate (just so you can be
prepared). Never had a Mars-bar tasted this good! Karimabad seems to be a
bit of a tourist-magnet. No wonder; the village is neat, and from below
(from the KKH), it is 6 km straight up to Ultar Peak (7388m) and the 'razor'-
peak (Bubulimating, 6000m). It is a fantastic sight. It seems the village has
just a bit too many tourist shops, but I've spend so little money up till now
that I might go for a look for gifts tomorrow.

Dinner was OK - first a good soup; rice, potatoes & spinach and a purple
something for desert.

Glacier trip: Time: 5 hours. Max. height: 3250m.

Saturday 24. September - Karimabad

People I meet are all very impressed by my Avocet Vertech altimeter watch
and all want to have one. Well, it is very useful (has altimeter, weather
forecast, thermometer, how much you climb up and down a day, etc.). Took
a morning nap, and slept till 8.30. Had decided to take an easy walk today;
my legs were still a bit sore from the previous days hikes. Here in
Karimabad there are some neat things. Bought some nice Lapis Lazuli
saucer (2 pieces for 450rs) and some other small things. Took a walk to the
Baltit forth - which was practically a building ground and the Mir's house
(the Hunza King). After lunch I took a walk down through Ganesh. When I
came to the KKH, people were shouting to me from all sides. I was just
standing there, not understanding their problem (and language). A big
explosion sounded, and I saw rock's come flying close by. They had tried to
blow up a big rock in the middle of a hole. It seemed that they didn't
succeed in cracking it. Walked east along the KKH, past the big bridge over
the Hunza river, up to what is called the 'Sacred Rocks'. It is just some big
rocks with carvings of animals and stuff. Supposed to be pretty old. Well,
my reason for coming here was to take pictures of Ultar Peak. There is a
150

great view from here, up from the river, past the Altit fort, and way up at the
peaks - one of the most impressive sights in the world. On my way, I kept
looking at the peaks. It is just indescribable. Took a lot of pictures though it
is impossible to squeezed it into 15x10cm. Found some rock crystals in a
crack in the rocks. Got a lift back by a Suzuki (2rs).

Took a walk through Mominabad to Altit. All these villages are on a very
steep grassy slope. Very fertile. Greeted a lot of people with the usual
'hello', 'salaam' and 'good afternoon' on the way to the Altit fort. Found a
nice stone shop. I was just looking at the window, and soon invited in for
tea. Two business men were having tea with the owner. Pakistan had much
more stones than I had realized. Even Emerald and Ruby mines around. One
of the mines had just found a lot of Peridot too. He shoved me a quite big
green specimen - at least 20ct. I think their problem is that they can't cut
them here in Pakistan. A good place for buyers of uncut stones, I think.
Well, the Altit fort was closed, and I went back. Stood below a bridge
(perhaps 100m up) and admired the view of the peaks above. The clouds
had just cleared up there and the sun lighted them up. Had a cup of coffee
back in town with the Danish girl I met in Islamabad. It was not just 6
months in India and Pakistan, but 5 years she had been traveling.

Sunday 25. September - Karimabad

Day trip to Ultar Glacier
Was on my way at 8.45. The one thing everybody is supposed to do, is to
climb up to the pastures just below the Ultar Peak & Bubulimating. I started
with a 30 minutes detour - beautiful view over the Hunza valley and the
Rakaposhi though! A bright, shiny morning, good views in all directions.
One thing the maps in TSK doesn't show is that the path goes up very steep,
all the way up through the ravine. I reached the shepherd's huts at 11.45 - in
about 21⁄2 hours. The ascent is from 2400m to 3300m. I was given a good
piece of advice by a Pakistani: "Just keep left", which is quite useful. It is
quite easy to find the path though. You walk up through a deep ravine, and
somewhere up, the path was 'broken', and you would have to do a little bit
of climbing on the cliff-wall. Water from one of the water channels was
pouring out, and washing the dirt out. Wow! Here I found a pocketful of
151

garnet crystals (a red gem); even some nice ones. It is the first time I find
gems myself, though they are worth nothing. They were there just for the
picking. The pastures are quite photogenic; peaks all round. Met a Spanish
guy from my hotel; he was going on up to Hon. He had been part way up
the other day, so he knew the paths. Well, why not try. I wasn't really tired
yet. So, up we went. Your bear right toward a waterfall (left of the glacier),
which is real pretty (had rainbows, 30m drop, etc.), and cling to a stone wall
up to a ravine to the north west. It was just mud! Climbed up for two hours,
and it seemed to be only half way... No path, just mud, a steam, and rubble
falling down. It should be the best view over Hunza valley up at Hon. Well,
next time. My friend continued further up; I went down (30 minutes to the
pasture). Around the huts, two parties had camped. Looked quite cozy. You
hear the glacier booming once a while. It looks like a big white waterfall
coming vertically down several hundred meters from Ultar Peak. The climb
down was OK; found some more garnets. In Karimabad, I went to a shop
where I had asked yesterday for a woven vest, Hunza style. It was made by
the shop owners brother, just yesterday. 220rs. Also bought a Hunza-style
hat for 50rs. On the way, I met John whom I saw walking from hotel to
hotel. Strange, it seemed that all the cheaper rooms were taken. My hotel
was full too, so we shared my room. 16 people for dinner this evening.
Pretty interesting hearing about people traveling in China for 6 months;
many had been to Tibet, Iran, Burma, Yemen, and other out of the way
places. Glacier trip: Karimabad (2400m) - Shepherds Huts (3300m) -
towards Hon (3770m). Time: 81⁄2 hours.

Monday 26. September - Karimabad-Ghulmet Lousy day. Well, the

weather was OK and it was easy to get on a minibus to Ghulmet (5rs), and
on to Aliabad (3rs), but then it got harder. Finally I got a lift to nearby
Hasanabad, and walked on. Got a lift from a jeep, and passed the spot where
we had waited for the turned over truck a week ago. Well, I could not spot
it! The road had been cleared and paved! Amazing. After a detour to
Minapin to pick up the drivers wife and kid, I got off at Sikandarabad,
because I had noticed it had pretty nice views here. Well, only problem: No
places to stay here and no 'Snow white hotel' as the TSK mentions. I
followed a guy BACK the road (I had now changed my mind for Chalt
152

further towards Gilgit) and further back on a tractor (free) - and... further
walk back. He said there would be accommodations around. Well, I stopped
at a place to have a soda (and biscuit). It was just opposite the Muslim Folk
Party headquarters - or something - in the middle of nowhere. It seemed
from all the posters to be election time soon. Well, I was coming to the
point where I was a bit sour, and NOT in the mood of talking with the
dozens of kids crowding around (why didn't they have more tourists around
here, so they could have their interest satisfied? :-) At two o'clock (after
waiting 11⁄2 hours), I was desperate to pay ANYBODY a lot of money
(even 100rs) to get me to somewhere (Ghulmet or Chalt), but there was just
nobody to pay. Finally a bus passed, going back east, so I jumped in, and
got off in Ghulmet. Got a "room" at Rakaposhi Mountain Hotel (which) it
isn't yet: a 'depot' room, no window (just a hole) and lots of cements sacks.
120rs! Well, I had no other options, and I was so tired I didn't bother to
haggle. Well, the only good things was it had a nice view of the Rakaposhi
(7790m) from the altitude of the road (2100m) though it seems just like a
hill - it's the problem with most mountains here; you cannot grasp the size
of them, unless you can spot something to compare the sizes with, like a
village up the mountain. OK a few other good things: a cool coke, hot milk
tea when the sun was setting, and great food too: Baked bread and potatoes
in a sauce. Yummy.

Tuesday 27. September - Ghulmet-Gilgit

Up early; kind of glad to get out of here. Give them 200rs, and hurry down
to the road, and get on a bus immediately (7.15pm). The bus is ok; except
for the usual Pakistani music. What am I supposed to answer to the usual
question: "You like Pakistani music, Yes ??" at the same time as they turn
up the volume? It is just not my kind of music... Arrive in Gilgit at 9.15am -
the trip cost 30rs. Stop in at the PIA office, just when they opened the door
at 9.30am. Well, they can't help me with the Islamabad flight until
tomorrow. You have to come here the day before departure to reconfirm the
ticket. Walk towards the Hunza Inn, but decide to try the Chinese Lodge,
next door just for a change. The second room I am shown is all right (the
toilet seat is not missing, as in the first one). Ok, 100rs for a double with
bath. Spend most of the afternoon in town, shopping, and drinking tea. At
153

one tea-shop, I am invited inside for tea and some greasy cookies (just
baked), and have a good talk with several people about my country and
theirs. They spoke pretty well English, so we got beyond the usual exchange
of name and country. At 6.30pm I ask "what about my dinner". Yes, Sir he
answers. "What time?", I try again, and points to my watch and mouth. "Ah,
Kitchen is closed! Sorry." Great, why do they always answer "yes sir" to
whatever they don't understand! Argh! One has to remember not to ask
yes/no questions. Walk to the next door PTDC- restaurant; but dinner was
not until 7pm, and it looked just a little to fancy for me. Continue to the
Mir's Lodge. Beautiful place with tinted windows and a moved lawn. I have
a filling meal for 100rs. How can that pay the cooks and two waiters? OK,
another couple shows up later...

Wednesday 28. September - Gilgit

I'm a bit worried about my flight to Islamabad; I am to confirm my ticket
today, and get it back at 2pm. I have already checked the other options -
which is actually only one option: a 15-17 hours bus to Rawalpindi. Which I
would rather avoid. I have to be there Friday, 3pm, to catch all my
connecting flights... Well, I get in the line in front of the PIA office. We 4
foreigners are waved through for special treatment. The 3 others, wanting to
get a ticket for tomorrow, leaves unhappy; nothing for 2 months. They will
have to check every morning for free seats. I guess they'll have a chance
when they get first in the queue every morning. They take my ticket, which
I can pick up at 2 hopefully. I had prepared several speeches like "I have a
lot of connecting flights; I'm a tourist..". Luckily I won't have to use them. It
is interesting that I can get on a flight 5 days after I have bought it in
Denmark, but everything is sold out when you get here?! I guess a good
piece of advice is to buy it from home... A strap on my daypack is broken,
and I visit a tailor who sews it on again - he didn't want anything for his
bother! Amazing, considering I look like a tourist...

I end up in a tea-shop, where I get delicious, spicy milk tea. Which I had
read about in the TSK. I realizes that this very place is 'the best tea in town'-
shop. The Haidry Tea Shop. Well, the price has gone up from 1rs to 2rs per
glass of milk tea. No wonder with that amount of ginger and cardamom they
154

put in... I try some of the different "dishes" available from the vendors; the
delicious pizza-style-baked bread (2rs), roasted corn (2rs), a plate of
switched cubes of liver with onions and stuff (5rs). I also visit my tea-friend
from yesterday and try some spicy meat-cake things, which actually tastes
OK. Hang around until 2, where I joyfully receive my ticket with a
confirmation for the first flight for the 8.30am flight tomorrow. I think it
will be possible; the weather is fine, and the air pressure is still going up
(another nice function of my watch).

Whatdoyouknow - meet my Swedish friends again (met them in Passu,

Karimabad and here). They are on the way to the police to 'become
residents', which one will have to when staying here more than 30 days.

Walk east of town - nothing happening here, though. A quiet afternoon in

the garden, with a good book. Quietly advise a tourist coming in, to try next
door 'Hunza Inn' instead of here. He appreciated my piece of advice.

Dinner again at the Mir's house: An excellent rice-vegetable chicken dish,

and a spicy mutton mixture. They don't actually make their dishes too spicy
here, even though I asked for it. Best meal I have had here yet. It is funny,
when I come to think about it; I don't think a woman has done any cooking
for me during my visit. At all the guest houses, it has always been the
(male) owner, or male, hired cook who has been doing the cooking.... What
do the females do here, except pushing cows, bearing children and wearing
colorful dresses? I just wonder. They get the front seat in busses, and always
look away from you. O yes, I saw some very funny postcards: 5 Pakistani
women, all veiled up, not even their eyes were showing - looked exactly
like ghosts in white dresses - could have been the Monty Python group
dressed up.

Thursday 29. September - Gilgit-Islamabad/Rawalpindi

Was the first one at the gate at 7am, and was a bit surprised about it. Some
more people lined up later, and the check-in opened at 7.30. First through
the whole system: x-ray of everything, weight of baggage, seat: window on
the left - "of course", the man replied. Tags to the hand baggage. Stamps on
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tags. Scanning of hand baggage, search through everything in hand

baggage. Clip of tags on hand baggage... 1 person to each job. Again, a
fantastic flight. I don't know if I just have seen too many mountains with
snow by now to really be able to appreciate it. Still, I caught myself in awe
with open mouth a couple of times: Great view of the Rakaposhi, and those
white fluffy things hanging around Nanga Prabat; the KKH going through
the valleys... I felt like a little boy during takeoff - and a little scared: a
600m runway! It's just so short. And you barely get off the ground before
the end of it. I should never have picked up the newspaper: 650 dead in a
ferry accident between Finland and Estonia... Somebody I know? It is the
first news I have had in 10 days.

Phew! So very hot in Islamabad. Get a young Taxi-driver - who don't speak
English (only a few do, it seems). 60rs to Rajar Bazaar.But the boy could
not read a map, even though I told him he was going the right way. At a
point he asked a passer-by about the hotel (Masriq) I wanted to go to, and
found out it was on the City Saddar Road. Oh, Saddar Bazaar, he thought
and turned back. After a detour to Saddar, we got back to Rajar... I was
following on my TSK-map, so I knew he was going the wrong way, he
obviously could not read and did not understand my map. Well. The hotel
was full; the nearby 7 Brothers hotel only had a couple of doubles left at
200rs (no discount), but the New Palace Hotel had a single for 100rs. The
room was OK. I only had planned to go and take a look at the supposedly
biggest mosque in Asia: the Shah Faisal mosque in Islamabad. A taxi (80rs)
didn't take long. Islamabad is quite different from Rawalpindi; the change
occurs quite suddenly - long straight streets; big mansions, big gardens. I
thought the mosque looked bigger from the outside - a four minaret version.
Free to get in. Well, I didn't think it was that big - seen from the inside. In
the middle of the mosque hangs a big globe of lights - it looks like the lights
are woven into a big grid. Nice feature. From a distance it looks quite nice
white, clean, and all marble, but when you look in the corners, it needs
repair already. Walked a couple of blocks, passing the big villas - wonder if
Benashir lives here?
156

Decided to take the Intercity bus back. That way I got to see most of
Islamabad since the bus goes through in a half circle from NW to SW. 10rs.
Took some time though. When back in Rajar Bazaar, I decided to look
around. It was actually a tip from a fellow traveler at a dinner discussion:
most had had bad memories about 'Pindi - but he had said Rajar was the
most intriguing bazaar he had ever seen, and he had been many places in
Africa and Asia. And now, I think he may be right - it is much more
interesting than the bigger Saddar Bazaar (where I was 1 1/2 weeks ago) -
and it is BIG here! It's like a labyrinth with shops in every corner of the
maze - and like dungeons and dragons, it is on several levels - underground
and on ground. And you can get everything I won't go into details. It is
divided with streets of special kinds of goods. One street had perhaps 50 or
80 jeweler shops on it - they seemed exactly the same, with the same kind
of jewelry in the windows... You can walk around here forever. Didn't buy
much though, just half a kilo of Almonds.

A big rally stopped all traffic for a few hours. All the busses had gone. The
people had the whole Rajah square - in the middle, the leader with
microphone and big speakers, and people all around. In the news, they said
the opposition failed in gathering many people to their rally. Well, I thought
there was many people - and hundreds of policemen wearing the full set of
armor, shields, guns and everything phew, everything dissolved quietly.

During a nice dinner at the hotel, they showed cuts on TV from the 3
Indiana Jones films, which had just arrived here. It was great; it showed all
the beginnings, all the points of the movies - all the surprising exposures of
the double agents and the whole ending! Great, you won't even have to see
the films after this, at least, nothing can come as a surprise. Well, I'm glad I
had seen them. The Bazaar was still busy until 8pm where they were
packing up. Must have been a long day. Wonder if they are open tomorrow,
Friday.

Friday 30. September - Islamabad-Muscat

157

Spend the morning looking around in the Bazaar once again; many places
are open today, and the streets are filled as usual. Take a taxi to the airport,
and catch all my flights: Islamabad - Karachi - Muscat

Saturday 1. October - Copenhagen

Muscat-Frankfurt-Copenhagen. Arrive in Copenhagen at 11am. Train to
Aarhus; back for afternoon coffee. Brewed. A great trip; somany big
impressions. The mountains are burned into my retina for the rest of my life.
Actually, I want to go to see the K2 some time. You can make a trekking
tour to one of the most remote places in the world in about 30 days, forth
and back...
158

Congo by rschuh23

What a story
Jan 03 '01
Author's Product Rating

Pros
wonderful people
Cons
traveling home

Full Review
It was a day that i thought that would never happen to me a day in my life. When i first woke
up i took a shower and i started to hear these animal sounds it was my older sister with this
recorder saying how would you like to take a trip to Congo. I said it would be wonderful. The
only thing is that we had to leave in two days. So i got everything done in those two days so
we could go. The Plane trip all started with a delay for four hours i thought to myself "why
did i want to go to congo". Then i relized why, I wanted to go because of all the culture the
animals i could see and i love gorillas. Finally we stared landing in congo what a sight it was
from the airplane pretty animals running in the open country. All the wonderful waterfalls and
the brown grass. Finally we got out of the airplane and what friendly people were there to
greet us. Like they were family to us. We went and found a guide so we could safari and see
all the animals at first. That was the most terrific thing i have ever saw seeing the animals up
that close. After the safari we went into town to see what kind of suvaneers we could take
back from our trip. While we were shopping we started to talk to some of the natives, it was
great we talk about there culture and there and my family. We talked so much that one
family invited us to have dinner with them. They were sweet. We looked at pictures that i
have brought of my family. Talked about hunting, fishing, and house work. Then the time
came when the trip was over it was hard to say good-bye. It felt like a second home to me.
Finally we left and ended up back home. Boy, was my eyes surprized to see the differents
between Congo and the United States. I told my sister thank you and i said i hope we can
have other trips like this. It was the best time i have had. Just remember that if you go to
another country and dont know what is happening just read the signs and obey them cause
it is your best chance of survival.

Recommended
Yes
159

http://www.chirundu.com/diary/kariba1999.htm

Trip
The Kariba Trip
(27 February - 3 March 1999)

27 Feb 1999 - The day of our trip to Kariba had arrived and as Sharon is slowly
becoming used to, I was so excited about the holiday that like a small child on
Christmas eve I was just unable to get to sleep! I eventually got Sharon out of bed at
3:00am and we were on the road with a few sandwiches for pad kos by 3:30am.

We had initially planned to spend our last holiday in Zimbabwe (before going to
London) in Chirundu, but because there was still alot of rain falling throughout the
country (we were afraid that our little Sunny wouldnt make it through the mud at
Chirundu) and both myself and Sharon had recently done some work for The Cutty
Sark Hotel in Kariba and so we were given very favourable rates of stay, this trip
would be of the luxourious type, where we would have a bath every day, and more
importantly - air conditioning in our room!

360 kilometers down the road and we would be in Kariba, as we passed Charles
Prince airport and the last few residental houses, it was still dark and I had a good
feeling in my heart, I couldnt wait for the sun to rise and to get that first sight of
Kariba's blue waters from the heights. Sharon wrapped in a blanket drifted off to
sleep and because the road was quiet except for the ocassional truck and bus
returning from Zambia I had to be carefull not to let my mind wonder too far. As we
climbed the Great Dyke, alone in my thoughts, I remembered all the times I had
ridden out there on my bike, where just before Banket there was a small strip road
that would take you to Mhangura, past Murial Mine (The Muragambedzi trip) and
then on to Mazoe and back to Harare on the Mazoe Road. A 200km ride one that I
would do once a week in the height of my training before I left for the Hanson tour in
South Africa. It all seemed like a life time ago, I was now a different person, a person
that found driving 200 kilometers in a car a long journey!

Mist covered the road like a blanket between Banket and Chinoyi and already the old
men with their "worms for sale" signs (in "Gokwe bold Italic!") and little fires to keep
them warm sat beside the road, for in this part of the world it is not the early bird that
catches the worm, but the early worm seller who catches the early fisherman! We
would not stop this time for this was not going to be a fishing trip, the tigers for now
could breath easy! At first light in Karoi we re-fueled and as I have done since a
young boy wondered why Karoi has a witch as it's emblem? Just as we got going
again we were really fortunate to see a serval cat dart into the bush, we chattered
excitedly and wondered what other animals we would see on the road. As we got
160

closer to the Makuti turn off I explained to Sharon that you ALWAYS see an elephant
here, it was not to be this time but we discussed that how on our Chirundu Trip we
had stopped on the escarpment overlooking the Zambezi valley for a pee break and
heard in the bush the loud roar of a lion - it was a short stop!.

After Makuti you are almost there and with your eyes peeled to the bush (and not the
road!) looking for animals the time passes quickly. Sharon alerted me to a Bateleur
Eagle, we stopped and reversed the car and sat for a while to observe this most
majestic bird perched on a tree top. Later on we also stopped at "the old Baobab" for
a photo and a brief explination of how many times over the years this tree had been
the site of the "Whiteheads" pee break! Shortly before Kariba we were surprised to
see a pack of hyena's right next to the road, I thought it was a bit unusual to see
them out in the open during the day but we enjoyed the spectical none the less.

We checked into the Cutty Sark, with Sharon completing all the formalities and then
took our bags to our room. For the next few days we would have nothing to do but
enjoy the views, swim in the pool and savour the moments, for in the back of both
our minds was the realisation that we would not be able to enjoy 'Africa' again for a
long long time. During the day it was unbearably hot, almost like a sauna and it was
very tempting to spend all your time in your room with the air conditioning on! So
right from the outset we decided to restrict our walks in the bush to the early
mornings and late evenings and spend the heat of the day lazing by the pool
enjoying ice cold Castles and the wonderful view of the lake. One afternoon I made a
list of all the birds that we were able to identify during our stay:

After our first breakfast at the Cutty Sark we decided that from then on we would try
all the other hotels in Kariba for our meals, not that it was bad, we just wanted better!
We had a very pleasant lunch and dinner at the "Breezers" Sitting in a rondavel
overlooking the harbour and the lake, it brought back many memories of my
childhood swimming and playing in the warm water of the pool and the many times
we had visited the lake. I had never seen the lake so full and what made it more
striking was the jetty at the breezers that usually had nothing but sand below it, now
streatched out into the lake and had a young boy sitting at the end of it fishing.
Sharon spotted a legavon in the harbour whilst we were waiting for our toasted ham
and cheese sandwiches, we watched it for a while climbing over the water lilly's and
then he submerged into the harbour and disappeared.

The first morning we woke up before sunrise and went for a walk, the air was still
cool as we headed off the dirt road and onto an overgrown path. This for me is
always the best time of the day the stillness of the lake and the first few chirps as the
birds begin to wake. As we got close to the lake we noticed alot of buffalo spoor and
unmistakable smell of their "fresh" droppings. I became slightly nervous and highly
161

alert as this was far too early in the morning to come across a grumpy buffalo! There
was a family of hippos wallowing in the water nearby and we climbed a rock near the
waters edge to watch them and witness the sunrise, this was paradise and I wanted
the moment to last forever.

This was definitly going to be a lazy, cultured holiday but I think it is exactly what we
wanted. One moring we went and had a really good breakfast at Carribea bay hotel
and that night had an enjoyable meal at the Breezers. We didnt see much game on
this trip, but there was a herd of ele's in the area and we saw them often, I almost
drove into one on the way back from our meal at the Breezers.
162

http://www.desmoinesumc.org/liberiamissiontrip/

Volunteer in Mission
Liberia, 2001

Des Moines UMC member, Marcy Sides, shares the story of her mission work in
Liberia...

"How long has it been since you had to live without electricity or had to draw water
from a river or well for bathing or doing dishes? A team of Methodist Volunteers in
Mission of South King County and the Pacific Northwest Conference did just that.
This April we set out for Buchanan, Liberia. This small area is about a three hour
drive south of Monrovia on a pot-hole filled dirt road.

"This is where we lived with the people of Buchanan, without electricity, running
water or any communication with the 'outside world.' The people of Buchanan have
lived without these everyday conveniences for years, since the Civil War battered
Liberia beginning in 1989. The civil unrest continues to this day.

"Our Mission was to help the Liberians of Buchanan-Grand Bassa County restore
Ada Ann Wright Methodist School, which was destroyed by bombing during the civil
war. We were there to mainly let these wonderful, hard-working people know that
they are in our prayers and that we care.

Money was raised to purchase needed materials for the construction project, which
was the rebuilding of the school. A new roof was put on, and we scraped moss off
walls so the stucco would adhere to the existing cinder blocks. All work was done
manually.
163

"I went to Liberia with NO expectation of receiving anything, other than the
satisfaction of knowing I had gone and served the Lord in a manner that was
pleasing to Him. But the many gifts I received were truly overwhelming.

"The first of my gifts was the warmth, love, support and prayers of the congregation
of the Des Moines United Methodist Church. I was given such encouragement and
words of affirmation that this mission of Goodwill was not only worthwhile but a must!

"The second gift was totally unexpected. This came from the wonderful people of
Liberia. Everyone--from the workers at the construction site to the members of the
Ada Ann Wright United Methodist Church, to the Missioners of Hope and The United
Methodist Missionaries. These people shared freely their language, customs and
culture with our team members. We were able to return home with a better
understanding of their world and the life they are building. The most unexpected gift
was a blessing we received from the people of Liberia--the construction workers,
church people, community members and the children. They collectively revealed to
us the Spirit of the Lord. These Christians are the most hope-filled individuals that I
have had the pleasure of meeting, despite the hardships (in our perception) they
endure daily. They see God's hand in everything. They are constantly praising God
for the abundance of his blessings--these praises were from men that had no shoes
and were willing to toil in the overwhelming heat and humidity in exchange for a
noontime meal! I was constantly inspired by the presence of the Lord in the lives of
these people. What a precious gift this inspiration was.

"My third gift was the building of life lasting friendships with the other team members.
Reverend David and Marian Zaske of Federal Way; Martha Alexander from
Bremerton; Janet Hayes of Oak Harbor; and Eleanor Duckworth of Pomeroy. Each of
these dedicated Christians have different talents and life experiences that were
shared with me and everyone they met. My life has been richly blessed by sharing
this experience with them.

"Even though our mission trip was only two weeks in length, the memories and warm
feelings I have for the people of Liberia and for my fellow team members will last a
lifetime.
164

http://ipminc.biz/im/issue3/innerspace3.htm
A Letter From Nigeria

by Louise Simpson

Hello again,

The intensity level of my trip has just increased to an unbelievable

height. I feel like I'm in a parallel universe. But what better way to deal
with it than to write it down.

On Thursday morning I left Abuja (the capital) with an old family friend
Kole. He had invited me on a trip to northern Nigeria with the end
destination being his home village Macina. He told me that he had to go
and visit and pay his respects for a wedding. On the drive there we
passed through all the major cities of northern Nigeria. Starting in Abuja
(political city), we traveled through Zaria (intellectual city) and finally,
Kano (commercial city). After arriving in Kano with six hours travel time
behind us we went further east and north. The roads were long and the
scenery didn't change much. It was all green farmland. As I looked
around, all I saw was poverty. I bought some water to have for myself in
the village and gave a disabled boy who offered to carry it about 25
cents and he thanked me as if I had given him a million dollars. By the
time we left the town it was about 5pm and unbearably hot. The heat
from the Sahara desert was keeping a blanket of heat tucked nicely
around the car. From then on there was no road.

After 2 hours on a dirt path and passing a village every half hour or so
we reached Macina just as the sun was setting. The first thing I had to
do was get over my shock. Literally, the village was comprised of mud
huts with palm treetops, a mosque and the Emirs house. It was tiny;
100-200 people might be an exaggeration. After we set up in the guest
house, one little building with two mattresses, Kole took me to meet
165

the Emir. The Emir is the religious leader of the town. He was very
interested in why I chose to come to Nigeria. On the way back to the
guest house I happened to look up and for the first time since I had
been here I saw the stars! It was beautiful.

In the morning Kole had to go off with the men to the mosque for one
of the many parts of the wedding,which I couldn't attend, so I was
escorted to his brother's house where the three wives made me feel so
welcome. Because they didn't speak English and I didn't speak their
language, I just sat there and smiled. I ate breakfast with them and we
tried some basic communication. They taught me the local greeting
(which I found out later was how you greet a king). The greeting
consisted of slowly clapping your hands together about 3 times and
then raising your fist. For the rest of the morning I just watched in awe
of these women. They worked so well together and relied on each other
so much. Between them, there were about about eight kids, who all
gave me a lot of attention.

I had to keep myself covered from head to foot, despite the blazing
heat. (I think one of the reasons I was so welcomed is because I went to
effort of doing this). Just I was about expire there was a great
commotion. More women in the village had come with gifts for the
wedding. Most of them brought a pyramid of 3 pots. I have never seen
so many in one place! This time I knew how to greet them. At one point
it felt like I was sitting with about 6 generations of women. How
beautiful and empowering is that!

When Kole came to get me he said he worried that I might have felt out
of place. When I told him the contrary, he looked relieved. When I left
the women (which to be quite honest I didn't really want to do) the
group expressed their goodbyes to me. Then the three wives walked me
to Koles' car. For the first time I was actually able to say something to
them (through translation from Kole). He told me they were very happy
to meet me and hoped I would come back.
166

Before driving away, Kole stopped to say hi to some family. I was

standing outside of the car when a woman came up to me, holding her
baby. Her baby either had the measles or the chicken pox and she was
asking me if I could help. Without being able to communicate with her
all I could was shake my head, which I know she didn't understand. I felt
so completely helpless.

As I come away from this situation - which was both the best and worst
of my life - I have to realize not only how lucky we are but also that
there are some things you cannot change by yourself. Do you want to
know what Macina's biggest problem was? Water. It's the rainy season,
but there hadn't been much rain. The well wasn't filling up. This means
that in the dry season there will probably be a drought. I can't even
comprehend this.

Anyway this has been my longest rambling so far and I must stop, as
my fingers are getting sore.

Louise

Louise Simpson is a poet and environmental activist from Toronto,

Ontario. She spent several months in Nigeria last year, and this is a
letter from her travelogue. avidhands@hotmail.com

Young Escher's Pencil Box

167

mixed media
by Dale Copeland

The Big Game

Mixed media by Dale Copeland

www.outofsight.co.nz
168

Lebanon by Anonynous:
http://home.t-online.de/home/inesbz/index/libanon-eng.htm

Lebanon - what do the most people think of when they hear this name?
They think of war, bombs, attacks. How many people have asked us to be
crazy or weary of life after they heard we go to Beirut? I didn´t count
them.

The media designed in the last few years an image of this country that
nowadays doesn´t correspond with the one that once existed before. The
Lebanon makes only headlines in our press with negative news. Only a
few report about the reconstraction and the beauty of the country. About
its people, their sincerity, warmth and hospitality as well as their
confidence and optimism. They impressed me in the same as their kind
way always to show us that we are welcome everywhere.

I invite you on my website to become aquainted with another side of this

country as the one we know from the news and I´d like to encourage to
get an own idea of it and its people.

We visited the Lebanon 1999 for the first time. Three years later, in 2002,
we started off a new journey…

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

In brief
Certainly, some will ask themselves: why the three just had the idea to
travel to the Lebanon? Well, already in the year before, during the
International Tourism Fair in Berlin, that is the worlds largest one, this
country attracted our attention. Investigations in guide books and in the
internet only strengthened the wish to visit this country, particulary since
it is not on the list of the package holiday makers.
169

And so we decided, Beate and Ines, both in the middel of the thirties, and
Gitti, at her early fourties, to spend unforgettable holidays in the Lebanon.
And you see, we succeeded.
We paid around 350 US$ per ticket for the flight by the Romanian Airline
Tarom from Berlin via Bucharest to Beirut and return. And per email I
booked our hotel in Beirut, the "Mayflower". It is situated in a side street
of the Rue Hamra, that even was that one famous shopping street before
the war. A triple with breakfast was 73 US$, this is about 45,- DEM per
person.
The exchange rate for prices, which can be found in the following text, is
about 1.000 LBP = 0,67 US$ (as of October ´99).

Saturday 16.10.1999 Departure

Sunday 17.10.1999 Beirut
The departure of the small Turboprop ATR-42 of the Romanian Airline
Tarom from Berlin-Schoenefeld to Bucharest-Otopeni is on time. At the
Romanian capital we will be waiting for our connecting flight to Beirut,
scheduled for 10.00 p.m. Nearly one hour ealier, at 5.45 p.m., we arrive
in Bucharest. We are astonished at the airport and the Tarom, too.
Everything is clean and tidy. Also the Boing 737 to Beirut takes off as
scheduled and we reach our destination punctually.

Even the landing approach to the International Airport Beirut is an

adventure. What a pity, that we arrive at night. Only a few meters above
the houses we glide into direction of the runway. What a terrific view of
the city.

After we´ve bought our visa stamp for 17 US$, we want to take our
luggage. What a surprise, my case is not here with. Actually, it isn´t a
surprise at all. Because the lady at the Check-in at the airport in Berlin
had forgotten to fix the label to my case. Above all, we asked her several
times wether there is all o. k. now with my luggage. "Of course", she
confirmed.

Although we were joking again and again that my case is standing all
alone at the left-luggage office at the Airport in Berlin, nobody of us had
thought that it will really happen.

Then starts the whole ritual with taking the personal data and facts. I am
really hopping mad. Michel, one of the airport staff, offers his sympathy.
Of couse, it isn´t his fault, least of all. He will send a fax to Berlin and one
170

to Bucharest, immedialely. He consoles, the case arrives certainly with the

next plane. So, I leave the Airport of Beirut without any luggage.

Our driver already waits with a sign, where is written on "Mrs. Ines G. ",
in front of the airport building. The first impressions of the town pass by,
always with my case in my thoughts. Will I ever see it again?

After our arrival at the hotel we have a shower and afterwards we drop
exhaused into the bed. Meanwhile it is 3.00 a.m.
When the breakfast is over one of the hotel staff says to my delight that I
can pick up my case from the airport. A miracle happened! Certainly, it
has been found in the night, he says.

For 30 US$ (there and back) we go by taxi to the airport. I am quite

confident, but unfortulately, I get dissapointed. I have to go to several
offices in different floors until I hear that my case comes with the next
plane of Tarom on Tuesday night. So, the ealiest to pick it up is on
Wednesday morning. Great. Any hope dwindles still in these holiday to
wear my own clothes. We have no other choice to make the best of this
started day.

Then we decide to explore Beirut by foot. We walk along the Corniche, the
costal road, intend to visit the Pigeon Grotte, the landmark of the town.
We want to spend some time at a small lonely beach that is situated at
the steep coast opposite the grotte. By a boat we are ferried over. I
decide to give up sun and beach because it is only to reach by large
stones in the water. No, I don´t want to lose more things (remember my
case). After all I perhaps fall into the water together with my camera. It
was not surprising because the streak of luck I have recently.

Gitti and Beate are really glad to be back. The lonely beach sooner turns
out to be a prison. The both can´t escape from there without a boat. And
this also know the men who conquer the beach with their own boats, e. g.
boards, tyers, to watch the European women.

On the way back to the hotel we stop at a Internet Café. From there I can
call to Germany for a fair price, one minute for 1,50 US$. That´s o.k.
In the evening we intend to look for a driver who could bring us to
Baalbek tomorrow. Because the prices vary between 125 US$ and 65
US$, we aren´t sure anymore, what to do. Suddenly, a Lebanese, about
our age, approaches and speaks with us in German. He writes down in
171

Arabic the places of de-parture of the collecting taxis which go to Baalbek

and tells us the maximum prices according to the routes. In the case we
hadn´t came across him, or better said he hadn´t came across us, who
knows what we had paid for the trip.

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

Monday, 18.10.1999 Baalbek

We walk to the Rue Hamra to take a taxi to Siad. From there the collecing
taxis go to the Bekka Plain where we intend to our trip today. The first
taxi is too expensive. The second driver agrees a bit grumpy to our offer
of 5.000 LBP. But on the way he tells us about his town. We pass
bombarded buidlings. Inside live people. It is to see by the clothes which
hung on the balconies for drying. And on the way to Baalbek we get to
see many tent houses inhabited by refugees. Arrived in Siad, we look out
for the collecting taxis. Not a minute goes by and a cluster of taxi drivers
forms around us (taxis should not be mixed up with collecting taxis which
have about the size of a minibus and shout where they go to). Everybody
is ready to take us to Baalbek. "...Yes, for only 50 US$ we take you there
and back..." and "...there are no collecting taxis from here to Baalbek..."
First we want to look around. On the opposite side we see a Hyunday
minibus. Right through the hooting cars we force our way to the other
side of the road. "Baalbek?". The driver nods in approval, we get on, wave
the left taxi drivers a good-bye and... we are on the way to Baalbek.

Steeper and steeper we wind up the street to the hills, in the back the
skyline of Beirut. A breathtaking sight.
On the way we see many check points and soldiers, Lebanese and Syrian
ones, military police, tanks, air defence... and among them are the before
mentioned tent houses of the refugees.

Arrived in Baalbek, named by the Greeks as Heliopolis, the driver insists

on taking us directly to the entrance of the Roman ruins. To the 3.000 LBP
per person for the fare we give him a tip of 1 US$ and he is happy about
the bakshish.
172

The admission fee for the impressive temples is 10.000 LBP. Lebanese,
French and German scientists restored here in the last century. Now,
there is an excellent feeling of how the construction looked in ancient
days. To see is the Temple of the Jupiter, the Bacchus and the Venus. The
second one is in best condition.

We meet only a few foreign tourists. Maybe, it is different from the

summer months, we don´t know. But then we meet a group of German
tourists. What a pity, we had can follow to listen a bit if they had been
here one hour sooner.

We leave the ruins. Beate wants a photo together with a camel, at all
costs! Some are closed to the exit. But now the owner claims 3 US$
although we were assured to make a free snap. With 1 US$ the deal is
perfect. As quickly as possible we set off to reach the centre of the town.
And here is true Orient, with dark small alleys. This is not the right thing
for Gitti. The same she feels when we eat something at a snack bar. But
the dishes are really yummy.

In the end we decide to go back on the way to Beirut. Zahle, a town

mainly inhabited by Christians, is on our way and we stop here for a
while.
Then we sit again in a collecting taxi. Somewhere in Beirut we get off. A
kind taxi drive, knowing three words English and three words French, tries
to explain how much he loves Germany. Certainly, he knows somebody
who has a brother on an uncle in Germany or somebody who even has
been in Germany.

We stroll a bit along the Rue Hamra, buy a few postcards. For dinner we
go again to the Raouche District. We decide to stop of at the sidewalk café
in that I had some food on the previous day when the other both relaxed
at their "lonely" beach. Because here we can eat delicious Lebanese food.
In addition we can choose from the different things. A piece from there
and a piece from here... roasted skewers, salads, vegetables. We can
choose like at a buffet.
173

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

Tuesday, 19.10.1999 Jeitta Grottes - Beirut

Today we want to go to the Jeitta Grotte, but how can we get there? After
the breakfast we first go to Corniche, the coastal road. From there it is
said to be departured busses or collecting taxis to the Jeitta Grottes. Of
course, everyone has to go in direction we want to go, too! Questions like
"how much?" and "where do you go to?" are answered by nodding the
head and inviting to get aboard. Sure, everybody wants to help us (and
perhaps wants to make a bit money, too) but we´d like to arrive the
grotte still today and wouldn´t like to go to an anywhere.

At last, there is someone who can help us. An elder couple knowing a very
good English. We shall go to Dora (speak: Daura) first and from there we
shall take another taxi. When we tell that we are from Germany the man
is really pleased about. Once again someone who loves our country. He
tells us that his daughter is studying in L. A. But he hates the United
States esp. all the dirt and trash that comes over from there, he says.
We are caught in a gigantic traffic jam. Countless vehicles roll along the
road. That won´t take long and two lanes become three, than four...
Everyone wants to be the first. Approximately, half an hour we spend in
the slow-moving traffic until we reach the end of the jam, a traffic circle.
Now it goes on again with more speed.

A few discussions on the price follow. For 10.000 LBP we are taken on
immediate way to the grotte. This is service. Again we don´t know if the
price is too high or not. For 16.500 LBP the Jeitta Grottes can be visitd.
They are said to be one of most beautiful on the earth. I must say, I have
never seen more beautiful ones! It is possible to go to the entrance of the
Upper Gallery either by a cable railway or by a little train.

Then everybody has to lock cameras and camcorders in for that purpose
designated safe boxes. It is not allowed to take pictures in the grottes!
Unfortunately. I´ve bought a 400-film for it.

The Grottes are of a stunning beauty. We feel like putting into a fairyland.
Actually, it can´t be described, it should have been seen.
The Lower Gallery is to reach by foot or by the little train again. Down
there it is a bit cool and it is advisable to wear a jacket or a pullover. This
breathtaking cave is discovered by a boat. Like a dream.
174

We think about how we can go back to the town. The only problem is that
the main road is about 4 kms away from here. Uphill. A Taxi is waiting for
us at the exit. You are in the deal with 20.000 LBP, the driver says. Come
on, it is a bit too much, baby. We had thought of about 15.000 LBP. And I
could swear it is still generous. The driver refuses our counteroffer. As you
want, then we go by foot to the main road. After we walked about 200 m
it seems he has changed his mind, as it was to be expected. He follows us
and takes us to Dora. At the traffic junction of that district begins right
away Bourj Hammoud, the Armenian district. We´d like to go shopping
here. Store by store full of with gold, watches, shoes...

But before we start shopping we want to find anything eatable. Because

we are in the Armenian district the kitchen in the restaurant is Armenian,
too. In a snack bar, behind the counter are large number of glasses
arranged. Their contents: sausage from Poppenburg made in Germany.
But of course, we prefer local food. We choose "Sourjok". A kind of Hot
Dog with Armenian sausage. Its colouring remembers to cloted blood and
its main constituent seems to be garlic. But delicious!

We ask where it is possible to buy fashionable clothes. "Ajax Street" is the

number one for it, it is said. And really, there was not too much promised.
Store by store with clothes and shoes. It is everybodies own fault who
doesn´t find here anything to buy.

For the rest of the day up to the darkness we stroll through the stores,
once more we buy anything here and try on anything there. A
phenomenon we watch here for the first time is that in the shops we are
shadowed by at every turn. We are not yet really inside the store there is
already a shop-assistant clinging to us like a leech. Well, I think in
Germany we had left the store again. But here it seems to be usual
because we notice in each store. Besides, they don´t like it very much
when the customer goes without any goods to buy. But maybe, we only
imagine things.

We decide without making a detour to go to the Raouche district to have

dinner in our favourite local, "Ali Barbar". Because here we are served by
our individual requests. Sitting on a table out of the restaurant, near to
the road, we suddenly hear a thunderous rumbling that becomes louder.
Firstly, we don´t trust our eyes. A tank with an about ten men crew
comes down the street. Ali, the son of the restaurant owner, explains that
every night at about 8.00 p.m. the tank comes along, turns around and
175

comes back . Hurry up! Where is my camera? That is worth taking a snap
of. But no, it is strictly forbidden to take pictures of the army and all
military things. We´ve got an idea. Beate is placed on the roadside and
when the tank comes back I push the release as if I was taking a photo of
her. All the people in the restaurant look horrified at us. Sure, nobody
before has dared to do so. But in the end all our excitement was in vain.
Because it was to dark there hasn´t become a photo of it.

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

Wednesday, 20.10.1999 Jounieh - Beirut

In the morning, Ali is with his car as prearranged at the hotel. First we
want to go to a post office to send our postcards to Germany. Afterwards
we intend to go to the airport. In the meanwhile my case is supposed to
be there, after all. I am really excited. If it is really here arrived by the
Tarom, from Berlin via Bucharest to Beirut. Terrible pictures buzz in my
mind: how a few Romanian airport employees fall upon my slashed case
and share with each other my belongings. No, these are mean thoughts.
As mentioned before, we had pleasant impressions of the Bucharest
Airport.

Fadl, Alis cousin, works at the airport and when we arrive there he is
informed by handy about our coming. He can be very helpful for us. We
run from one office to the other, hurry from one floor to the other because
here we get an approval and there we get a needed signature. It is said I
get my case with a hundred percent reliability. I will just believe when I
have seen it. Even on Sunday morning I came here full of optimism but
then I was bitterly disappointed. So, we will wait for.

I meet old acquaintances, Michel, it was he who had took the loss of my
case. A handshake to welcome. Another one asks: "Do you remember
me?". Yes, of course, he was on duty in this office on Sunday here, too.
Meanwhile, I know the half of the airport staff of the International Airport
Beirut. Well, it seems to have all papers now and we leave the gigantic
176

office block again. Fadl was really a big help. I think without him we had
spent several hours for the search of the respectiv offices.

Now, only Fadl and I are allowed to go further. We enter the arrival
lounge. Not possible without an approval. And there it is, finally! I
recognize it, it is my own case, yes, it is. In fact, it has managed to be
here before the return flight. In the end I have to go through the customs.
Opening the case, unpacking, searching, but I don´t care all! The main
thing is I got it back.
The other both just hardly believe. After the event they they confess that
they had lost faith but did´t want to discourage me. At last, we can enjoy
the day and the nice weather because today sun and beach are
announced.

Ali takes us to Jounieh, a place not far from Beirut, that nowadays counts
about 350.000 inhabitants with its suburbs Kaslik and Maameltein. There
stand closely packed houses and hotels designed as concrete blocks and
surrounded by gardens, swimming pools, restaurants, tennis courts. Ali
has a chalet here as second home. The beach is small but quiet and
almost deserted. It is low season in Lebanon and even the restaurant is
closed.
So, we relax for a few hours in the sun and have a bath in the warm
water of the Mediterranean Sea. Ali has to be back in his father´s
restaurant in the late afternoon and so we start at 3.00 p.m. Because the
everyday traffic jams in Beirut we need about one hours to go to the inner
city.
We have still time up to the evening and we stroll a bit down the Rue
Hamra, buy a few things more.

Tomorrow is our last day and we plan to go far to the south. We want to
get up at 6.00 a.m. and so we decided not to go to late to bed. That
means we leave at 10.00 p.m.

Before we can catch a taxi a grey Mercedes 300 SL stops close to us. We
are invited to "Friday´s", an American styled restaurant about 50 m from
here. Actually, we want to go to bed. But o.k., persuaded. Khaled and
Mohammed are amusing fellows and we have a lot of fun. They take us to
the hotel , say good-bye and "nice to meet you". This is a matter that we
like very much on the Lebanese man. They are not importunate. As soon
as a woman shows that she is only interested in a talk and in nothing
more, they accept it, immediately. No advances are made anymore. They
177

show although in a honest way that it is nice to have met each other. In
the meantime it is midnight. Tomorrow gets an exhausting day followed
by a same exhausting night.

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

Thursday, 21.10.1999 Tyrus - Saida

In the morning at 6.00 o´clock the telephone rings, we are woken. After
we have paid the bill for our room we leave our luggage in the departure
lounge. This night, better said, early next morning goes our plane to
Bucharest. At about midnight we´ll pick up our cases from here again. But
before we go on a trip to the south, close to the Israeli borderline.

This time we have to go to the Kola district. From there goes busses via
Saida to Tyrus (Arabic: Sour). Just when we are sitting in the cab we
notice whom we are going with. Military music comes from a tape,
pictures of Khomeni on the front pane and he wears black clothes. He is
the first Lebanese who hardly speaks with us. The other drivers proudly
talked about their town and even if it was by hands and feet.But we arrive
safe at Kola. Just a few seconds later we are in the bus to Saide, for 750
LBP.

On the way increase the number of the check points, we see tanks and
other vehicles of the army on the roadside.
In Saida we change for a collecting taxi. On the way back we intend to
stop here.To ask for the town Tyrus it should be used its Arabic name:
Sour. Nobody knows what to do with the name Tyrus. Arrived in Sour, we
ask our way to the first ruins. And there addresses us once again a young
man. He introduces himself as Hassan, he is shiit and just finished his
studies of political sciences. He has been watching us for a while before he
came over.
We visit two different ancient places. The admission fee is 5.000 LBP
each. We think the construction situated close to the beach is not as
impressive as the one inside the town. But maybe we are demanding
since we saw Baalbek. But the visit was worth even because the little pub
that is there, face due to the sea. We can only reach it by climbing down a
178

wall by a wooden ladder. We have never entered a restaurant on such a

way. It is a different way! The coffee served real Turkish and to welcome
special guests the owner lights the water pipe. And as you see, he has
been to Germany, too. In Hamburg.

In the background we can hear the booming of airplanes. It is the Israeli

Air Force means Hassan, the Shiit. They can be heard every day.
Well, it is time to continue. We have a still a full programm for the rest of
the day. On the other side we can leave the pub normal by
foot.Immediately, we are offered the transfer to the other ancient ruins at
the inner city. By an Mercedes, as old as the hills, that has hardly air in
tyres we rock across the streets of Sour. From the entrance we see that
this place is more extensive and in a better condition. The most
impressive is the Roman triumphal arch and the Hippodrom.

On the way back to the bus station we walk through the streets of the
town. A car of the UN-forces with soldiers from the Fidschi Islands passes
by, they sound the horn and twave to us. People look at us everywhere.
Sure, three European women travelling alone aren´t seen here every day.
We are friendly asked to take a picture here or there together with them.
We feel happy.

Hassan put us in a collecting taxi and still means "perhaps, we meet each
other again anywhere in Germany" and again we are on the road to Saida.
We sit back on the last row of seats and a young man has no choice and
has to sit down between us. All seats are taken. Beate reads a few words
to us from the guidebook. Among other things, that in Saida there is the
largest Palestinian refugee camp of the whole Lebanon. Suddenly our
fellow asks: "...what did she say about Palestineans....?" I translate for
him. He responds "...I am a Palestinean..." Together with his brothers he
has a juweller´s store in the Old Town of Saida. And he offers to show us
the way to the sights of the town. We accept with thanks. There is always
someone accompanying us and who tells us about his town and his
beautiful country. Afterwards Khaled, so is his name, introduces us to his
brothers and shows the store. Gitti finds her longed for Rado-watch.
Exactly the one that she even had selected in Beirut. But there it was an
original. Because this one is a copy it is to afford for 33 US$. After closing
the deal we get a coffee at the expense of the house as it belongs to the
Arabic business life.
179

Khaled and his elder brother Mohammed guide us through the cramped
lanes of the Old Town which are mostly roofed.They show us the places
where to buy the most delicious sweet things. We pass by the fish market
that is easily to smell.

At the fort of the crusader times Mohammed says goog-bye because he

has to go back to the store. But Khaled will accompany us.
The landmark of Saida was built by the crusaders as fortressin the years
1227/28. From the fort you have a wonderful view overlooking the whole
town, the port and the surrounding hills. Since things are not as
extravagant restored as here in Germany you have the chance to see
them like they were in the past. And again we feel to have stepped back
in those days.

In the near Government Resthouse we invite Khaled for a coffee. We read

in a guidebook that stopping off here is a good idea because "...by the
way, for reasonable prices because subsidized..."

Unfortunately, we can´t certify. Nowhere we have paid a more expensive

bill . For one coke, one orange juice and two coffees we had to pay 12
US$! Khaled takes us to the bus statio where the collecting taxis to Beirut
start. And bye!

Again we get into a gigantic traffic jam. But because our driver rides the
car as if he was mad, we are faster than most of the other ones. Finally,
one more short cut through the narrowest side streets of Beirut. They are
equiped with deep potholes. We are thrown back and forth. The disastrous
driving we are a bit worried about our health. We are really glad to have
stopped and we are still as fit as a fiddle. From Dora, where we are now,
we know the way to the Raouche.

The rest of the night we are going to spend in our favourite local. For a
last time enjoying the Lebanese Kitchen.
Fadl, who helped me through the tangle of the airport offices to get my
case as quickly as possible, comes to our table and sit down. We chat
about this and that, the adventures we had in the last days in the country,
talk about cars and Germany...

Of course, he will take us to the airport. Nothing makes change his mind,
nor the fact that we have already booked our transfer. Then just let the
driver bring the luggage to the airport. O.k., we are persuaded. We think
180

that it is nice of him because with a detour he shows some more

intersting things of the town. At the airport he hand over us to his friend
George. Fadl says good bye.

Lebanon 16.10.-22.10.1999

Friday, 22.10.1999 Return flight

But before checking-in our luggage we want to make ready for Germany.
That means taking off the summer clothes and put on warm shirts and
jackets.
After the check-in we are in the transit lounge waiting for our plane to
Bucharest. We are a bit sad about departing today and one more think
about our eventful time. We´d like to stay a bit longer but in Germany the
daily routine is calling. Terrible.
About twenty passengers are inside the Boing 737 who fly with us to
Romania. The turbulences during the flight don´t bother us too much.
But it is enough to make us sick when we see the weather in Bucharest.
Rain and fog with +3°C. Is it to prepare for Germany? How will the
weather be there? We have enough time, about four hours, to think about
it. Our plan to Berlin is expected at 9.00 a.m. The turboprop of the Tarom
is in time.
After almost three hours we arrive Berlin. Sunshine, a few thin clouds and
+8°C give as a better feeling.
181

http://www.junglerunner.com/RTW01/RTWjournal9.1.htm

#9 - Sudan
Sally deFina - 21 August 2001

By the time we reached Gondar in Ethiopia, we had heard so many awful

stories about the road between Ethiopia and Sudan in Addis that we were
dreading the trip. Our first story came from a Polish couple that we met on
the street in Addis Ababa. We listened in awe as they told us of their week-
long trip through the border area from Sudan to Ethiopia.

"We started off hitching a ride in a Land Rover….but after one day we
turned back to Gedaref because we got stuck too many times and the driver
decided to wait to make the trip." The couple then hitched a ride on a lorry
with twenty or so other people, and proceeded to get stuck about three times
over the course of two days. On the third morning, they woke up to rain, so
the lorry driver decided he was not going to continue. Since the border was
supposedly 11 kilometers away, they decided to put on their backpacks and
hike the rest of the way. After hiking in mud up to their knees for about 10
hours, they finally reached the border - exhausted.

"Do you think we will be able to make it in our Land Rover?" we asked.
"Not a chance" came the reply. "The ruts that the trucks make through the
mud are way too wide for a Land Rover….you'll get stuck for sure." Crap.
Frantically, we sat down with our maps and Lonely Planet Guide to see if
we could find our way around this area. Unfortunately, all roads to Eritrea
were closed due to the war. We could get to Djbouti from Ethiopia, but
according to LP, renewed rebel activity in the north made the travel on the
road between Dijbouti and Eritrea "inadvisable". Additionally, getting Max
on a boat in Djibouti to sail around Eritrea to Egypt was nearly impossible.
The only way around Sudan appeared to be to backtrack to Kenya and ship
Max to Egypt. Our prospects did not look good.
182

Luckily, we met a Dutch couple in the Hilton who had just passed from
Sudan to Ethiopia in their Land Rover Ambulance. They were in the Hilton
for the same reason we were - to try and get money by paying for guests
with our credit cards and receiving cash in return. The fact that they were
able to push their way through the mud of Sudan offered us hope, but their
story was distressing nevertheless….

"How long did it take you to get through?" we asked.

"Oh, about a week."
"How many times did you get stuck?"
"Oh, about twenty times…..but it was kind of fun! Eventually someone
came along and pulled us out when we were really stuck. One day we went
only 40 kilometers the entire day!" Their enthusiasm did little to lighten our
spirits. Jeff turned to us with a worried look on his face and said, "We need
sand ladders". "Sand ladders? What the heck are they?" Well, when a car
gets up to its door in mud you dig under a wheel and place this metal ramp
called a "sand ladder" under the wheel so you can just drive on out. It
sounded too good to be true, but if Jeff needed some peace of mind then
sand mats were what we would buy. So we went off to the market in Addis
to find some cheap ones. After finally finding some (and using $100 of our
precious cash to buy them), and picking up Viktor (our first hitchhiker) in
our Addis hotel, we set off to see some sights of Ethiopia and try our luck at
the Sudan crossing.

In Gondar, we were greeted with good news from two Swiss boys who had
just come across the border in their Toyota Land Cruiser. They took only
three days to cross, and got stuck only three times. "How did you do it?" we
asked incredulously. Apparently there had been no rain for two days before
they crossed, and they went in a convoy with four other cars. They were
locals that knew when to go off-roading to avoid the points when the main
road was unpassable. This was good news.

After a week trying to avoid the endless squeals of "money, money, money,
money, ……" from children, and searching in vain for a hot shower and
183

good food (anything but spaghetti, omelet, fish "cutelet", or Ethiopian

injera) we were ready to go.
"Jeff - GET ME OUT OF ETHIOPIA!" I exclaimed.
"Ok - lets go tomorrow." Hooraaaaaay!
We picked up another hitchhiker called Mark from Philadelphia, and we
were off.

The road in Ethiopia to the border was spotty. There were many deep
patches of mud, but Jeff managed to plow through to the border without
getting stuck once. After camping at the border, hiding our electronic
equipment and going through the bureaucracy of Sudanese customs, and
having a wonderful breakfast of Sudanese fuul (finally real food!) we set off
for what was reportably the "bad" part of the crossing.

Our day consisted of stopping the Land Rover every few kilometers so that
Jeff could evaluate the passable route through the mud, then Jeff backing up
and running at the chosen path at full speed for momentum. Needless to say,
the ride was not an enjoyable one. More often than not, all of us
disembarked (save Jeff) and walked through the mud to make the truck
lighter - and because staying in the truck would have tossed us around like
salad. By the end of the day, the inside of the truck looked like a tornado
had hit it. All of our possessions were thrown about the truck and there was
mud everywhere (inside the truck, on our clothes, in our ears..) We had lost
a headlight, dented the carriage underneath, and managed to pick up a
squeak in our front right wheel, but we had made it through to Gedaref in
one piece and managed to get stuck only twice. The first time, we were
pulled out by the local villagers and our tow rope, and the second time by a
large truck and our tow rope. We also pulled out to large lorries with our
tow rope. We didn't use our sand ladders once. Oh well.

In Gedaref, we were greeted with true Sudanese hospitality - a Land Rover

Discovery started trailing us in town and flashing its lights at us.
Tentatively, we pulled over. Two guys jumped out of the Discovery with
cameras and wanted to take our picture. "Hi - we are Land Rover dealers in
Khartoum. How can we assist you?". "Well we are going to Khartoum".
184

"Stay in Gedaref and we will drive with you to Khartoum tomorrow. We

will pay for the hotel." Wow. Yassir and Mohammed took us to their hotel,
fed us dinner, took us to the police to register the next morning, drove us the
5 hours to Khartoum, took us to Yassir's home, fed us again, drove around
helping us to find a hotel, then took Jeff to the Land Rover repair shop the
next day (to fix Max's undercarriage).

Everyone in Sudan is absolutely wonderful. Everyone wants to help us.

People let us use their phones - free of charge. People give us soft drinks -
free. People ask us - "First time to Sudan? Welcome". We have people
cheering us as they drive next to us in our Land Rover! We have Middle
Eastern food - Shawerma and Hummous and grilled meats! Everyone is
soooo nice! And this is totally contrary to the warnings we received from
our embassies in Ethiopia ("we strongly advise you not to go there"). Life is
good! There is just one problem - money. We can't get any (no credit cards
and no Western Union).
Crap. We count our money…..just enough to last one week. So, we have to
get to Egypt in a hurry. Too bad, because Sudan is really starting to grow on
me.
185

http://users.ox.ac.uk/~mert1182/trip2.html

SEARCHING FOR A BIHAC

ADVENTURES IN CROATIA AND BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
by JOSH CHAFETZ, 17th Grade
(Click on photos to see them enlarged)

View of the Split harbor from the cathedral belltower.

Jason, with part of Dubrovnik's old city in the background.

Jason and Jackie, atop the old city's walls in Dubrovnik.

Jason, Jackie, and me inside Dubrovnik's old city.

A view of Dubrovnik's old city from a boat on the way to the island.
186

The new, temporary bridge in Mostar, with what's left of the Stari Most behind it.

The problem, unanticipated at the time, with writing my travelogue of the

Spain and Morocco trip was that it created an expectation of a similar
dispatch from future trips. So, despite a looming Qualifying Exam and other
assorted boogeymen, here you are. Enjoy. ...

This time, we started off at a slightly more reasonable hour. Jackie

Newmyer, Jason Wasfy and I met at the Queen's Lane bus stop at 6:50 am (I
said a more reasonable hour, not a reasonable one) in order to get to
Gatwick for our 10:45 am flight to Zagreb. We were fortunate enough to
have, as our bus driver, the most dour man I have ever met. He harumphed
at us for not knowing which terminal our flight left from (hey, he goes to
the airport for a living -- isn't knowing things like that his job?), and our
relationship went downhill from there. Still, we managed to disembark at
the right terminal just before 9 am, get checked in, and have some breakfast.
(I, in a fit of patriotism -- and continuing my habit of having disgustingly
large breakfasts at airports -- had the American breakfast: pancakes,
sausages, eggs, potatoes, coffee, juice, and possibly a few other things that
I've since blocked from memory).

The vast majority of the flight itself was relatively uneventful. Until the
end. When the plane was maybe a minute from landing, we suddenly hit
turbulence. Normally, turbulence doesn't scare me, but when you're close
enough to the ground that one good bump could send you into said ground,
it suddenly takes on a somewhat scarier dimension. From where I was
sitting, I could see that the wings are gently flapping -- not something I
particularly needed to see. Then, when we were about 20 seconds from
landing, the plane suddenly got pushed down, hard. The pilot then gunned
the engine, and we touched down just after getting over the edge of the
187

runway. I've never heard a pilot sound so relieved as when he came over the
loudspeaker and gave the "Welcome to Zagreb" spiel.

The first thing we noticed about Zagreb was that it was significantly colder
than Oxford, and just as cloudy. We cheered ourselves with the thought that
the coast was sure to have completely different weather patterns. After we
went through passport control, got our bags, and withdrew some kuna from
the airport ATM, we got on a bus which took us to the Zagreb bus station.
As we were passing through the outskirts of the city, I got my first first-
hand taste of Communist architecture, in the form of massive block
apartments. It blew me away because it so perfectly meshed with everything
I understand Communism to have been: oppressive, dehumanizing,
monolithic, conformist, and ugly. But it was also interesting to look at the
new buildings -- if anything, they were flashier than what you would
normally see in the States. The new buildings used a lot of glass, a lot of
shiny metallic surfaces, a lot of bright colors, and almost no visible
concrete. It was interesting to see them working so hard architecturally to
produce an antidote to their past.

According to our map, the bus station was within a few blocks of the train
station, which was where we wanted to be. This was manifestly untrue.
After walking around for 20 minutes or so, we flagged down some guys
roughly our age in a car and asked them where the train station was (we
think they stopped because they thought Jackie was cute, but we're not
sure). After trying to explain to us how to get there for a few minutes, they
finally just told us to get in the car and they'd drive us there. We took them
up on the offer because (a) it was cold outside, (b) there were three of us
and only two of them, and (c) they had stuffed animals in their car -- people
with stuffed animals in their car just don't kidnap hitchhikers. (Okay, this
last piece of reasoning, which was my own, was roundly mocked by Jackie
and Jason. But, hey, they got in the car, too!)
188

Anyway, they very nicely drove us to the train station, where we proceeded
to spend a ridiculously long amount of time trying to find the ticket counter.
You would think that it would be relatively easy to find the ticket counter in
a train station. Half an hour later, we finally found one, and a few minutes
after that, we had reserved a sleeping compartment for the overnight train to
Split, a town roughly halfway down the Dalmatian Coast. As we were
buying our tickets and leaving our luggage in storage, it started snowing
outside (!!), and as we were walking out of the building, my shoelace broke.

Now, this wasn't exactly a major tragedy, but it was something of an

annoyance, as it meant that one of my shoes was now flopping off my foot
every time I took a step. But what made it especially annoying was this: the
Croatians are more obsessed with footwear than any people on this planet. I
infer this from the fact that roughly one out of every three storefronts in
every Croatian town we visited was a shoestore (fans of Douglas Adams
will recognize that this puts the Croatians well beyond the Shoe Event
Horizon). But have I mentioned yet that we arrived on Palm Sunday? So,
shoes flopping off my feat, I walked past closed shoe store after closed shoe
store after closed shoe store. Sigh.

But we didn't walk around too long, because, as mentioned above, it was
damned cold out (especially given that we were dressed for what we hoped
would be the much nicer weather along the coast). After buying the best
sausages we'd ever had from a stand near the center of town (and, no, I do
not want to know what was in the sausage, thank you very much), we
settled into a nice, warm cafe and got some coffee. Before we left the cafe,
Jackie and I had to go to the bathroom, which is when we discovered that
Croatia works on what might be called a "pay as you go" system. The
women who clean the bathrooms sit outside and take money as you go in.
The usual cost is between 2 and 4 kuna (between 25 and 50 cents).
Unfortunately, neither of us had any small change on us, and we weren't
about to leave her with a 200 kuna note. She very kindly let us use the
bathrooms anyway, and we came back and paid her after getting the change
189

from our cafe bill. You would think that the lesson of this incident -- keep
some small change on you at all times -- would be one that we would only
have to learn once. And yet somehow, throughout the trip, we never seemed
to have change on us when we needed it.

After leaving the cafe, we went to Zagreb's beautiful cathedral, where we

saw about half an hour of a truly beautiful and wonderful Palm Sunday
service. Listening to the service in Croatian made me think of what listening
to Catholic services must have been like before Vatican II. In some ways,
there's something more mystical, more powerful, about knowing that holy
words are being spoken when you cannot understand them. It leaves you
alone with your thoughts while simultaneously sanctifying those thoughts
and turning them towards the divine.

In any case, upon leaving the cathedral, we found a nice place to have
dinner, including our first taste of Croatian wine. The vineyards, which are
everywhere along the coast, make pretty good red wine (the best is the
Dingac), and in Croatia, it's incredibly cheap.

After dinner, we headed back to the train station for our overnight to Split.
When we awoke in the morning, the sun was shining in through the curtains
of our cabin, and we pulled back the curtains to see a perfectly clear, blue
sky above and a perfectly clear, blue Adriatic below. The train was stopped.
We knew that Split was the last stop, and we thought that it was also the
first stop on the Adriatic, so we slowly pulled our stuff together. We were
just about to get off the train when it started pulling away. Split was, in fact,
not the first stop on the Adriatic, and we still had about another hour to go.
Oops. As the train went along, we opened the windows, and felt the
wonderful, warm, fresh, sea air on our faces. After spending months in
England, it was heaven.

We arrived in Split about 7 am, and, after trying several hotels that were
closed (high season doesn't begin until summer), we finally found one that
190

was open and checked in. There was a Budget car rental agency in our hotel,
and we decided to arrange to rent a car in Split for Friday (it was then
Monday morning). The idea was that we would spend a couple of days in
Split, then take a bus or ferry to Dubrovnik, spend a couple of days there,
then come back to Split, pick up the car, and drive back to Zagreb, stopping
along the way at Plitvice Lakes National Park. None of us can drive a
manual transmission, but they promised they would have an automatic
waiting for us on Friday morning.

After securing the car and (finally!) getting me some shoelaces, we went
for a walk around the old city. Much of Split's old city was built on the
former fortress and summer residence of the Roman Emperor Diocletian (c.
AD 243-316). The cathedral, especially, is interesting: it was originally
Diocletian's mausoleum (Diocletian, by the way, was a violent persecutor of
Christians). It was later converted to a Catholic cathedral, the oldest
cathedral in the world, in fact. It is guarded by a couple of granite Egyptian
sphinxes which date to around 15 BC. It also has a really cool belltower that
we climbed (for 5 kuna). From the top, we had an amazing view of both the
city and the Adriatic. The water along the Dalmatian Coast is the clearest,
bluest water I've ever seen, and that comes across even more when you're
looking down on it from great height.

The rest of the old city wasn't that special -- most of what was once
Diocletian's palace has been built over and isn't really recognizable as being
an ancient site. So after we saw the cathedral, we headed back to our hotel
for a nap. After a nice, relaxing nap, we headed off in search of a place for
dinner. We had a specific place in mind from one of our guidebooks, and it
looked to be about 20 minutes away. So, naturally, an hour and many
backtrackings later, we still hadn't found the place. But we knew we were
close. So we decided to celebrate by stopping in at a bar and getting a drink.
The place we chose was an absurd Brazilian-themed bar that looked like it
catered exclusively to tourists. But it did have an incredible view of the sea,
so we went in. After several minutes of pouring over the extensive mixed
drinks menu, we had finally figured out what we wanted. The waiter,
191

noticing that we looked ready to order, came over and informed us that their
bartender wasn't on duty yet, so we couldn't have any of the things we
wanted. But if we wanted a shot of something straight, that he could do.
Why he hadn't seen fit to inform us of this fact upon presenting us with the
extensive mixed drinks menu is anyone's guess. In any case, after Jason
decided against having a shot of Jack Daniel's, we left and continued our
restaurant search.

We finally found the place a few minutes later, and it was really great. The
brought the available fresh fish, on ice, over to our table, we picked one, and
they grilled it for us. It was incredible -- we were to enjoy much Adriatic
seafood in the coming days. After dinner, we decided to go home by cab,
and the cabbie ripped us off more flagrantly than I ever imagined possible.
He took us on the grand tour of Split, including one stretch where we went
through a long tunnel underwater. Now, I know for a fact that we did not
have to cross any water in getting to the restaurant, which makes me suspect
that the tunnel route, scenic though it was (it also managed to pass through
several of Split's nicer suburbs, despite the fact that both our hotel and the
restaurant were centrally located), was unnecessary. For what I'd like to
think were altruistic reasons, we decided not to argue over the fare.

The next day, we decided to take a ferry to the near-by island of Hvar
(pronounced "Hwar"). As Jason reminded us numerous times on the 2-hour
ferry ride, Hvar was named by Traveller magazine as one of the ten most
beautiful islands in the world. Once the ferry landed, there were two
possible ways to go: towards Stari Grad (the old town) or towards Hvar
Town. We wanted to go to Hvar Town, but the only bus for the next hour
went to Stari Grad. So we hopped on the bus. And missed the stop for Stari
Grad. So we got off at a charming but tiny town a few stops later, and
decided to walk the 5 km back to Stari Grad, which I think turned out to be
a wonderful idea. The interior of the island was gorgeous, and the lavender
growing by the side of the road produced an incredible smell (which must
be even stronger in the Spring). We finally made it back to Stari Grad,
where we walked around for a bit and then settled in to a cafe for a nice
192

relaxing soft drink. And we almost missed our bus back to the ferry. (This
was after we asked the waitress to call us a taxi back to the ferry. She called
what seemed to be the only taxi driver operating on the island (hey, it was
off-season), who said, in her words, that "he doesn't want to pick you up
because he's on the other side of the island.")

But we did catch the bus, and the ferry ride back was quite amusing. We
were sitting in the observation deck a few tables away from an American
girl who had just graduated from Georgetown and was traveling the Balkans
alone. While on Hvar, she had apparently managed to pick up two 30-
something men from Split. These guys were so sketchy that it was absurd --
as if they were playing a game to see which of them could be more a
caricature of sketchiness. They told her they were rock musicians. They told
her they would be happy to show her around Split. And when one of them
said something to the other in Croatian and she asked what he had said, the
reply was: "He, uhhh. Well, he said you are very be-yoo-ti-ful." Jason,
Jackie, and I almost fell off our chairs laughing. We didn't get much reading
done on that ferry ride (have I mentioned yet that the entire trip, Jackie was
reading Saul Bellow and David Miller, Jason was reading John Rawls, and I
was reading Michael Sandel? A bunch of nerds, we are ... )

We had hoped to take the ferry from Split to Dubrovnik, but it only runs
two days a week in off-season, and neither of those days was convenient.
So, the next morning, we hopped on a bus for the 4 and a half ("five! it was
five!", Jackie insists in anguished memory) hour bus ride to Dubrovnik. The
bus was not only sold out, but it sold standing room, as well. I actually
enjoyed the ride -- the whole thing was along the coast, and it was
stunningly gorgeous. Jason didn't enjoy the ride so much. Jackie abhored it.
She insisted that she would rather walk back to Split than take that bus
again.

By the time we arrived at Dubrovnik and got settled in to our hotel, it was
already after dark, but from the bus ride in we could tell it was a beautiful
193

city. At our hotel, we had our first experience with The No Lady. She was
the desk clerk at our hotel, and had an annoying habit of telling us "no,"
when what she actually meant was "yes." "Do you have a room for three
people for two nights?" "No. [long pause] We have only an apartment for
three people for two nights." "If we decide to, would it be possible to extend
it for a third night?" "No. [pause] Maybe if someone cancels." Confused,
but grateful, we headed up to our room and settled in. That night, we had
dinner in to the old, walled city (I had a dish consisting of many small fried
whole fish, which were delicious but disgusted Jackie and Jason no end).

The next day, we asked at the front desk if there was an internet cafe
nearby. "No," we were told. "There's one right down the street." After
checking our email (the problem with Croatian keyboards is that they are
deceptively similar to English keyboards, except the z and the y are
switched. So, unlike with, say, Arabic keyboards (see the Morocco
travelogue), you think you can type quickly, but then you end up typing
things like "mz friends are verz biyarre"), we explored the old city,
beginning by walking around the perimeter of the whole thing on top of the
walls. This was an incredible walk. It not only gave a wonderful view of
both the old city and the sea (the old city is right on the water), but it also
gave a sense of just how compact the old city is -- the entire perimeter tour
was just under 2 km. The place is also a labyrinth -- tiny back alleys lead to
more alleys which lead to more alleys, still, and yet, somehow, you're never
more than a few hundred meters from where you started. Jason's new
mantra, which he repeated many, many, many times over the next few days,
was, "You guys! This is so charming, don't you think?"

It was also interesting to see the rebuilding. Dubrovnik is surrounded by

hills, and in 1991, the Yugoslav army shelled it from those hills. Today,
there is almost no sign left of the shelling -- a very few buildings in the old
city are still without roofs, but those are all in the process of being repaired.
From looking at the rest of the city, you would never know.
194

Deciding we'd had all the beauty (and charm) we could handle for one day,
we decided to go on a tour of every single car rental office in Dubrovnik.
Okay, that's not quite true. What we really decided is this: because we didn't
want to take the bus back (and Jackie would have missed our flight home if
she'd walked), and because the ferry wasn't an option, we wanted to rent a
car in Dubrovnik, cancel our reservation in Split, and drive the car from
Dubrovnik to Zagreb. But, again, we needed an automatic transmission, and
there are apparently only 4 of those in all of Croatia (okay, I made that
number up, but that's certainly how it seemed). Finally, after several hours
of going from one car rental place to another, we convinced the people at
Budget to bring the car we were going to get in Split to Dubrovnik for us.

As we were walking back triumphantly from Budget, we ran into Wes

Moore, Luke Bronin, and Sara Galvan (all in my Rhodes class) on the
street. This wasn't quite as random as it sounds -- we knew they were in
town and had been trying to meet up with them. We agreed to meet that
night for dinner. In the interim, they made some new friends -- a family of
Americans who had just moved to Zagreb and were traveling the country.
They had two kids roughly our age, the older of whom is coming to Oxford
next year. Very small world. So the 8 of us -- Luke, Wes, Sara, Jackie,
Jason, our two new friends, and I -- had a very nice dinner at a pizza place
near our hotel.

The next morning, we asked if there had been a cancelation which would
allow us to stay in the hotel one more night. The woman at the desk (not
The No Lady) looked confused. She explained to us that we were already
signed up to stay another night in the hotel. At this point, having figured out
The No Lady's game, we were no longer surprised. So, we headed off to try
to explore the religious sites of the old city -- the synagogue (the second
oldest Sephardic synagogue in Europe, although it is no longer active), the
mosque, the cathedral, and the Church of St. Blasius. And every single one
of them except for the church was closed. Sigh. But the church was quite
pretty. After that, we decided to take a boat out to Lokrum, the beautiful and
195

uninhabited island in the city's old harbor. Luke, Wes, and Sara had been
there the day before, and they said it was a fun place. We traipsed around
the island for a couple of hours, adding to our suntans/burns (bear in mind,
we've been living in England since September ... we're not used to this
whole sun thing).

We went to bed early that night, in order to pick up our car at 8 am the
next morning. We had decided to go back to Zagreb via Bosnia-
Herzegovina for three reasons: (1) it's the most direct route, (2) my parents,
who had spent time in the Balkans before the wars, recommended that we
see Mostar, and (3) Jason wanted to impress women by telling them he'd
been in Bosnia. So we drove along the coast until we reached the turn for
Mostar, and then headed inland into Bosnia.

The war damage in Bosnia is much more extensive than it is in Croatia.

Everywhere, we could see utterly destroyed shells of buildings, and our
guidebooks warned us not to venture off of roads because of landmines. We
came to Mostar about lunchtime. On almost every block there was at least
one destroyed building with a sign in both English and Bosnian that read,
"ATTENTION! DANGEROUS RUIN. Access to the ruin and vehicle
parking forbidden!" Mostar's name comes from Mostari, meaning the
keepers of the Stari Most, the Old Bridge. The bridge was built in the 16th
century, when the city was under Ottoman rule, and it was destroyed in
fighting in 1993. It was so completely destroyed that, unless you knew it
was supposed to be there, you never would have guessed.

Even so, Mostar remains a charming place. The old town (once you find it -
- we got lost once or twice or six times) is packed with craftsmen making
and selling their wares, one of whom insisted on showing me pictures of all
of his friends and relatives who had emigrated to America. He spoke almost
no English, but his rapture on the subject of America was eloquent in itself.
The SFOR peacekeepers were ubiquitous and heavily armed, but seemed
completely at ease, sitting in the cafes and talking with the locals. I got the
196

feeling that this was a place desperate to move on from its past and that it
truly saw American pluralism as a beacon.

We ate lunch in a cafe overlooking where the bridge used to be (it has been
replaced with a temporary wooden bridge which gives just a little with each
step. Very comforting). After lunch, we got back on the road, and I was
driving. Not too long after we left Mostar, we came to Jablanica, where the
road splits. One part headed towards Sarajevo, and the other towards Bihac.
We wanted to go towards Bihac. Now, the thing you have to appreciate
about Bihac is that it is pronounced almost exactly as BEE-yatch. (For those
of you over thirty, BEE-yatch is a vogue way of pronouncing a certain
derogatory word.) So, since I was driving and Jason was navigating, it was
his job to roll down the window and say politely to passers-by, "Excuse me.
Bihac?" Jason had to do this several times, because the first few people we
stopped didn't speak any English at all. So by the time some nice person told
us how to get on the road to Bihac, they were probably wondering why we
were all laughing so hard.

One of the important things to know about Bosnia is that it's rather
mountainous, which means that the roads are one-lane in each direction, and
the curves are frequent enough that one very rarely gets a chance to pass.
So, naturally, soon after pulling out of Jablanica, we got stuck behind a
tourist bus which had the words "Jerry Trade" written in big letters across
the back. We were stuck behind it for about 40 minutes (going about 60
km/hr) before I finally passed.

Soon after that, we came to a small town, and the highway split. I
accidentally took the branch that went through town, rather than the branch
that went around. No big deal, we thought, they'll surely meet up on the
other side of town. It turns out that this was, in fact, the case. But what we
hadn't counted on was the fact that, before they met up again, we would
have to drive up a mountain on a rock road. I call it a rock road because
calling it a "dirt road" would imply a far smoother ride than we actually had.
197

This road consisted of rocks about the size of a human head (only sharper),
sticking out of the ground to various degrees. I suspect the vast majority of
the road's traffic consists of goats. We would occasionally pass people on
the road (now we're going about 15 km/hr, by the way), and they would turn
and stare at us with a look that said, "Why are these idiots driving on our
goat path?" Finally, Jason -- for some reason, Jason always gets stuck with
these tasks -- got out of the car and asked if the goat path would take us to
Bihac. When they stopped laughing at us, they told us that it would. So,
after another half hour or so, we finally get to the top of the mountain,
where we meet up with the highway. Relieved to be back on the open road
again, I gun it. Fifteen minutes later, looming ahead, I see big red letters that
read, "Jerry Trade."

We finally pass the bus again, about half an hour and much cursing later.
We soon get out of the mountains, and are driving through plains. Here, the
devastation of the war is even more evident. Houses in the middle of
nowhere have been completely bombed out. Even the houses that are still
inhabited sport countless holes. At one point, we drive past a refugee camp -
- the sign calls it a Center for Relocated Persons, or something like that -- as
if euphemisms could possibly be of any comfort to its inhabitants. Even
with the atrocities over, it seems that so many buildings have been
destroyed as to force people to continue living in the camps.

After a while, we stop for gas, and Jason takes the wheel again. Pretty soon
we pass into the Republica Srpska (Bosnia is a federal state, divided into the
Muslim-Croat Federation and the Republic Srpska, which, as the name
suggests, is Serb dominated). At the border crossing, we see the Jerry Trade
bus, off to the side. We rejoice as we speed past.

The problem with being in Srpska is that Serbian uses a Cyrillic alphabet,
and our map is printed in a Roman alphabet. This made reading roadsigns
tons of fun. Luckily, we're only passing through a finger of Srpska, and we
pass back into Muslim-Croat territory pretty quickly, having successfully
198

navigated despite the Cyrillic roadsigns. After several more hours and
another mountain range, we finally arrive in Bihac, with appropriately
immature banter about its name. Bihac is only about 20 km from the
Croatian border, but we managed to get lost again, including a trip down a
dirt road. When we finally did figure out where the turn for Croatia was, we
realized what the problem had been: there was no sign. For some reason, a
border town had decided that a sign pointing to the border simply wasn't
necessary. Bizarre.

So we get to the border and pull up to the booth. The nice man looks at our
passports, stamps them, and waves us through. Jason drives away. As he's
picking up speed, we hear someone yell something, and Jason suddenly
slams on the breaks, puts the car in reverse, and backs up to the second
booth, which is, apparently, the customs booth. This booth has the lights off,
and it seems to me we could be excused for thinking that it had nothing to
do with us. But I guess it's good we went back -- I wouldn't want to be
arrested as an illegal immigrant into Croatia. Anyway, the guy at the second
booth is now peeved at us, so he takes his time studying our passports. Then
he makes us open the trunk, and he cursorily looks through Jason's bag, just
to show that he can. Now we can go on our way.

It's now about 7:30 pm, which means we've given up on our hope of seeing
Plitvice Lakes National Park (which closes at 7:00), so I drive the last
couple of hours to Zagreb, with a stop in between for dinner. Our car is due
at 8 am the next morning, so we decide to see if we can return it that night
and sleep in the next morning. We stop at the Zagreb airport on the way into
Zagreb, but they're closed. So we decide to drive to the Sheraton, where the
other Budget office is located. Driving in Zagreb is an interesting
experience for several reasons. First, we have no map of the city, and, it
being 11:00 PM the night before Easter Sunday, there is no one around to
sell us one. Second, central Zagreb has a trolley system, and I've never
driven in a street with trolleys. Apparently, the way it works is that the
trolleys going both ways stay on the right side of the street, and cars stay on
the left. I found this out because I was on the right side of the street and
199

found trolleys coming at me from both directions. A collision was only

narrowly avoided.

We finally made it to the Sheraton, and, although that office was closed,
too, the hotel concierge took the keys and assured us that he would give
them to the Budget office the next morning. Since I haven't yet heard about
Jason's credit card being charged for the price of a car, I assume he kept his
word. We found a somewhat cheaper hotel nearby and went right to sleep.

The next morning, we had Easter brunch at the Sheraton and then headed
off to the airport. We checked in, looked around the duty-free shops, and
then went to the cafe for some drinks. About 50 minutes before our flight,
we leisurely headed towards our gate, at which point the airline employee
said, "Are you going to London?" "Yes." "Run!" Then she got on her
walkie-talkie and told them not to take our bags off the plane. It seems that
March 31 (Easter Sunday) was the day that Europeans change to daylight
saving time. We were, in fact, 10 minutes late for our flight, not 50 minutes
early. Fortunately, the plane was still there, our luggage was still on it, and
the animus of the other passengers was short-lived.

So, we made it back just fine. And now, it's time to study for our
Qualifying Exam. Where's my copy of Sandel, again? ...

Jackie and Jason on the charming island of Hvar.

Jason, me, and the Adriatic, in Dubrovnik.

200

Jackie and Jason, on the Dubrovnik old city walls, overlooking the old harbor, with the island
in the background.

A look out over Dubrovnik's old city, with the island in the background.

Jackie and Jason, in front of one of Mostar's many bombed out buildings (or "dangerous
ruins" as the signs call them).

A mosque in Mostar, overlooking the river.

An SFOR (international peacekeeping) bus at the Zagreb airport.

Copyright 2002 Josh Chafetz Return to Josh Chafetz's homepage
201

http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/3c3eb/f9b/

Trip to Somalia

by Adam911 - last update: Jul 3, 2003

Send Picture as a PostCard.

Calmadow, Sanaag, Puntland

Exotic Land
Hello,
I went to Northern Somalia(Somaliland/Puntland) in Summer 2000. Travelled by
plane from New York to Addis Ababa on Ethiopian Airlines, then took a flight from
Addis Ababa to Hargeisa. Daallo Airlines now has flights from
Amsterdam/Paris/London to the Horn of Africa. After arriving to my arrival I stayed at
Local Hotels in Hargeisa. I also travelled by Rental Car to The cities of Berbera(nice
beaches), Amoud, and Burao which were all very beautiful cities. I also took a flight
to Calmadow in Sanaag Region, Which is known for its beautiful green mountains
and beautiful scenery. I also travelled to the port city of Bosaso in the North East,
which was a bustling commercial city now, Galkacyo, and LaasCanood. All and all a
very incredible trip. I expect to be returning in 2003 for a longer stay. I would suggest
against going to Southern Somalia because it is still too dangerous for tourists. But I
would recommend going to Northern Somalia for an adventurous venture. Good Luck
to All!
Included is a picture of Calmadow Region.
202

http://www.sue-jeri.demon.co.uk/angola.htm

ANGOLA - A LAND OF UNEXPLORED

ANGLING POTENTIALS
SOUTH ANGOLA - FLAMINGO LODGE
FLAMINGO LODGE 70km South of Namib, Angola, is
surrounded by dunes and rock outcrops, and the warm waters of the Atlantic
Ocean. Flamingo Lodge is owned by Rico Sako (a former South African
now permanently resident in Angola) and all trips can be arranged solely
through Sense of Africa.

Flying into Windhoek, capital of Namibia via Air Namibia, the only airline
to fly direct (via Frankfurt) takes some 10 hours, we opted to drive to
Walvis Bay. This enabled us to experience some of the most amazing desert
landscapes to be found. The flat savanah land, high mountains to the rolling
dunes of the Namib desert.
To break our journey, we spent one night at the Sossusvlei Lodge, at the
edge of Namib desert.
Flying from Walvis Bay International to Namib in Angola, and then onward
to Flamingo Lodge by 4x4. The low level flight with Wings over Africa in a
Cesna 210, takes you along a coastal route of unimaginable magnitude and
spectacular scenery.
The thundering surf of the breaking rollers foaming onto the beach , high
dunes of the Skeleton Coast, flocks of vibrating pink Flamingos feeding in
the lagoons, seals and cormorants all diving and darting after bait fish
shoaling just yards from the hot sands of the desert. Hammerhead Sharks
cruising the shallows of the shore line in Tigres Bay, turtles heading to the
shore to lay their eggs and dolphins leaping.
203

The boarder between Namibia and Angola is the Kunene River a small oasis
of lush green vegetation in the arid desert. Seeing Crocodiles swimming and
herds of Oryx on the islands gives you some idea of the diversity of the wild
life in this region. At the Kunene River there is another Lodge and excellent
fishing at the river mouth and shore line for large Kob (80kg+).
Next stop the small airport just south of Namib, passing through
immigration was no problem as Sense of Africa had made all the necessary
arranegements in Namibia for our visas. Passports are returned to you once
you leave Angola.
On landing we were introduced to Eddie and driven via 4x4 Land Cruiser,
some 70km south over high sided sand dunes and rocky outcrops or the dry
river bed of the Flamingo River. Shortly you round a headland and catch
first sight of the Lodge, our home for the next 4 days. We had the bungalow
in the far right of the picture above, and woke every morning to the sound
of the gentle surf, wondering whether it would be a day afloat or ashore.
All the Lodge bungalows have hot and cold running water, shower and
toilet facilities and sleep 4 people. We had a bungalow to ourselves, and
there was more than enough room for 4 anglers. The Lodge has 240 volt
electricity via a generator, and this provides all light in the evenings. The
out of the way nature of the Lodge doesn't mean that it is without facilities;
the kitchen area is a marvel with fridges, freezer, gas cookers and an
informal dining room; all in the communal bungalow - complete with a bar.

Unpack, change and an hour later you are fishing. Beach fishing species
inlcude Kob - this is Jeri fighting a good Kob in the surf. Garrick, Blue Fish
and various sharks, including large Copper Sharks, (Bronzies to the locals)
which can go in excess of 300lb. Anglers are known to catch up to 8 a day
of these powerful masters of the ocean.
Jaco Visser with 38lb Kob

Jeri Drake with Blue Fish

Boat fishing is in its infancy and we trolled from a 18ft rhib just beyond the
breakers, or you can anchor and fish with baits. The sport is hectic with
Blue fish, Blacktail,
204

Garrick and Kob to name but just a few. Anchor for sharks and you are now
in for some serious arm bending experience.
Sue with Dusky Grouper

Flamingo Lodge is surrounded by a high sandstone spit which forms a

sheltered bay of warm sea. The lodge provides an ideal base for exploring
the areas both north and south, and is accessed by 4x4 Toyota Landcruisers
driven across dunes, dried river beds and the beach. The fishing zone from
the shore is basically where the desert meets the Atlantic Ocean, and the
general area of operations is 25 miles in either direction. Shore fishing
marks were determined by water colour and presence of huge bait shoals of
large Mullet. Our guide and Lodge Manager during our stay was Eddie, we
never did get his surname; and he excelled in both these capacities.
The shoreline provides ready access to a wide range of species which are
sought with either static baits or lures, they are so close that fly fishing from
the shore is a very viable proposition. The Lodge provides all shore and
boat angling tackle, though you would have to bring your own fly fishing
tackle and lures. For dedicated shore anglers we would suggest some
practice before your trip with long rods (14ft) and reels in the 'low' position,
as this is the type of tackle provided. For those venturing to the shore that
cannot cast well (like us), Eddie will cast for you - most embarrassing.

Jako Visser fighting Kob Jeri with small Kob The local landmark to
'Kob country'
For the more dedicated boat angler the biggest problem is getting away
from the 'back line'! Such is the abundance of species and fish, that this is a
very real problem. The Lodge has three boats and in settled periods the 22ft
catamaran is kept on a mooring in the bay in front of the Lodge, accessed by
the smaller rhib launched through the surf. During our stay the weather was
not quite as settled, and we used the larger rhib (18ft) for our trip along the
'back line'. The larger rhib is also used for the fly fishing folk going afloat,
wishing better access to the predators in the 'back line', like Blue Fish and
Garrick. The potential of the offshore waters is barely scratched, and we
would certainly recommend anybody interested in exploratory angling to
205

take this opportunity. We will be returning to sample some of the blue water
fishing off Flamingo Lodge.
During our stay we were offered by Rico Sako a trip out north of Namib,
and this involved the rhib being towed along the dry river bed and main
road (tarmac) some 60 miles to his house in the town. Following breakfast
we launched in the bay in which the town is situated and headed north along
a coastline that hasn't seen any angling for 30 years. The small amount of
artisanal fishing will never make an impact on the vast schools of fish that
we found during our short trip that day. We were now heading into almost
totally virgin waters for the salt water sea angler. Crystal clear waters so
alive and unexploited that we were almost at a loss of what to try first. Rico
suggested that a suitable starting point would be to rig with large Rapalas
and take it from there - he must have had inside information, as not 5
minutes after we started trolling Sue was into the first of very many fish that
day. We had barely travelled 20 minutes up this rugged coastline, just 200
yards from the cliffs and we had sampled 5 different species from large 20lb
Dusky Perch to 10lb Blue Fish.

Rico followed the shoreline for some 14 miles north the landscape was
replaced by high sided canyons leading to beaches and coves of golden
sand, and high rocky outcrops protruding over virgin waters. Here we
started to experiment a little, trolling 6" and 8" rapalas, (deep running), 4"
Halkos (mid water) and 5" Shatani lures (surface running) we caught some
14 different species in 4 hours. During this brief half day afloat we had over
45 fish, and most were into double figures; all within 600 yards of the
shore! And that was under conditions that our hosts declared to being
poor!!!
Large quantities of bait fish, Mullet could be seen shoaling along the surf
line and rolling in the backs of the breakers, seeing these from the boat is an
amazing site, especially as some of the shoals probably numbered 5,000
fish. The quantity of bait fish and other fish species in the area is due to the
nutrient rich waters coming up from the south, which are cool, meeting the
warmer tropical waters off Angola. At one location, the term 'Wreck fishing'
took on a whole new meaning! The wreck on the beach coincided with
small ribbon of reef and another huge concentration of Mullet. This
206

particular mark saw all three rods keel over, as Blue Fish virtually jumped
in the boat, and it was here that we caught our Puffer Fish. On rounding the
next headland further schools of Mullet were being shadowed by Atlantic
Bonito, in numbers that caused problems with them being foul hooked in
the tail. Fighting these small but feisty Tunas when hooked in the tail
certainly led to some entertaining angling.

Lunch was to be on a secluded golden sanded bay, after having beached the
rhib, surrounded by huge overhanging canyon cliffs. Just on arrival in the
bay, and trolling along the backline, Sue's lure started to pop out of the
water; symptomatic of weed on the hook. This was followed by a very
acrobatic strike from a Garrick (Leerfish). To say that the fish was strong
would be an understatement! This species of surf dweller certainly could
fight. 20 minutes later the 18lb beast was in the boat, and destined for the
barbeque. During this stop over the shore anglers of our crew (Jako and
Rico) tried their hand at spinning for Garrick. Lunch had, we re-launched
the rhib to take us back down the coast to the retrieve point. It was an
experience to be believed. Boat fishing at the present time in Angola is a
completely hands-on experience, you all help to launch the rhib through the
surf counting the incoming swell to ensure a smooth take off.
A quick spin around the most northern headland of our trip and Jako hooked
into a small Amberjack, and following the troll back across the bay, Kob
and Pargo were hooked and landed. The majority of the fish were kept, as
they are prime supplement to the local diet; the fish were never wasted.

The winds increase in the afternoons in Angola and this reduces the amount
of time on the water. The rhib was retrieved in a much larger bay and was
then towed through the rocky canyons and gorges back to Namib. This was
a driving experience as at times the road was only as wide as the Land
Cruiser and trailer, which almost sheer drops on one side and the high
canyon walls on the other, through tight and narrow twists and turns before
reaching the main tarmac road.
207

Night fishing is also prolific providing Guitar Sharks - Jako Visser with his
night caught Sand Shark from the beach. At Flamingo Lodge, once the sun
sets and you fish just yards from your bunaglow the Land Cruiser head
lights are all you need to be able to play your fish through the surf, and for
the crew to follow you should you hook up to a big one.
Serious boat fishing has not really taken place at Flamingo Lodge, although
they do have 22ft ski boat available. There is the potential offshore of large
Yellow Fin Tuna, Sailfish and possibly Marlin together with Broadbill
Swordfish. A whole new era of sea angling is awaiting to be opened.
Rico Sako has plans for two others Lodges within Angola, one at the
Kwanza River some 50km south of Luanda and the other at the Longa River
80km from Porto Biome. Potential here is for world record Tarpon, as they
have not been fished for for some 20 years or more and are expecting fish
well over 200lb+ from either the boat or shore. Threadfin and Kingfish are
also both available. The potential of this under exploited land is tremendous,
and requires an adventurous type of angler to develop the region.
All trips to Angola are available through Sense of Africa
There has been no trouble in Angola since 1978 and we found that there is
no crime rate. In the 5 days that we stayed at Flamingo Lodge we only saw
one gun, which was being carried by a local policeman walking along the
beach from Tombua to Namib (some 130km) to collect water!
It is advisable to take tropical diseases measures and the best times to go to
Angola are between October and March, so the next time you want to spend
Christmas on the beach catching, try Angola, and have one of the best
angling experiences of a life time.

Home Page

Go to Namibia

UK Angler's Sharks
visitors since 19.12.01.
208

Kenya by Labonnecuisine:
http://www.epinions.com/trvl-review-543A-51EDD4-
39132A78-prod2

Safari Packing Tips

May 05 '00 (Updated May 05 '00)
Author's Product Rating

Pros
This should make it easier
Cons
??

Full Review
When we decided to take our children to Kenya on
a safari, the most daunting task for me was packing.
Even though I had the suggested packing list from
the tour company, it was still an overwhelming task.
Since returning, I have compiled a packing list that I
believe works for a 2 week safari to Africa. This
following list is what I recommend for each person:

3 pair of long pants (khaki colored ones)

2 pair of shorts

3 long sleeve T-shirts

4 short sleeve T-shirts

2 polar-tec type sweat shirts

1 pair of tennis shoes just for the game drives

1 pair of other everyday shoes

1 pair of nicer shoes for dinner

1 bathing suit (only the kids put theirs on)

2 nicer outfits for dinner (The LL Bean travel

clothes would be perfect for women, and for
209

men, just a nice pair of khaki pants and a

polo type shirt.)

1 back pack

1 fanny pack

Kleenex (Small packets for the obvious and when

you might not find toilet paper.)

Bags of hard candy (It gets very dusty on the game

drives and although they supply bottled
water, there is NO PLACE to go to the
bathroom, if you catch my drift)

packets of anti-bacterial wet wipes

camera with zoom lens

lots of film (we brought 48 rolls for the family and

actually used 30)

extra camera batteries

small pair of binoculars

Sunscreen

30% deet insect repellent

Cipro (Very important! Have your MD prescribe it

for traveler’s diarrhea)

Dramamine (Those roads are rough!)

Shower thongs

A flashlight

Safari hat (If your tour company doesn’t give you

one, you can buy a great one there.)

In case you are wondering, we did have our laundry

done at some of the game lodges along the way. It’s
best to do that when you are spending at least 2
nights someplace. It was not that expensive and they
210

did a very nice job!

We visited a Masai School so brought pens and

pencils to leave for the children. They were very
well received, except I think that they could use
books more. They want them in English, so any kind
of young reader “chapter” book would be what I
will bring when I go back. Used ones are fine.
Also, when we visited one of the villages, my boys
left their athletic shoes with the host elder to give to
the children that could use them. We noticed that
more than half of the kids didn’t have any shoes.

As hard as this is, please do not give in to children

begging. You will see this everywhere in the cities
and towns. It accomplishes nothing except
encourages them to beg more! It’s heart breaking,
but you just have to resist. There are many ways to
make a difference in Africa and this is not one of
them.

My last piece of advice, if you find that you have to

go through Nairobi, is be very careful there! Nairobi
is not like the rest of Kenya, and there is much
crime. Keep your car windows closed, no matter
how hot it is and your doors locked as you ride
through town. Two people that we met had things
stolen right out of their vehicle as they were slowed
in traffic. Someone just reached right in the window
and poof.............purse gone! A kid had his baseball
cap taken right off his head, too.

I hope that this will help you with the packing

dilemma. For us, this trip was a life changing
experience and we can’t wait to return. Now, I’ll
have a little less to be worried about and I hope you
will too. Do have a safe and wonderful safari...........

Labonnecuisine
211

Yemen by Tim:

http://www.al-bab.com/yemen/trav/morris.htm

GOING TO EXTREMES
Despite official warnings, TIM MORRIS took his family to Yemen for a
holiday. They not only survived but came back impressed by Yemeni
hospitality.
GRANDPARENTS were aghast when we said we were taking our
children (aged six, nine and 11) on holiday to Yemen. They recalled the
deaths of the four tourists in December 1998 and pointed to the stark
Foreign Office advice that this remote corner of Arabia is as dangerous as
Somalia, Afghanistan or Chechnya.

Remembering the four years we had spent in Yemen in the early 1980s, we
were sure no harm awaited us. Nevertheless, in search of reassurance, I
emailed an acquaintance in Sana'a but failed to get a reply. Eventually, the
reason became apparent - she had been kidnapped.

Fortunately, as with other "traditional" Yemeni kidnappings, all was

speedily resolved. "Hostages" generally enjoy the hospitality offered them,
call home on satellite phones and usually receive a parting gift. The
tribesmen from the fringes of the Empty Quarter who carry out these
publicity stunts get the clinic, school or whatever else they feel the central
government has been remiss in supplying.

The children's surprise at the large number of armed soldiers at Sana'a

airport gave way to astonishment as we drove into the medieval old city. A
lone passer-by, delayed on his way to bed after the all-night bustle of
Ramadan, insisted on accompanying us to the door.

We rang the bell and, far above us, our host pulled the cord that shot the
bolt of his ancient wooden door.
212

Downing rucksacks, the children raced up the narrow staircase of the eight-
storey house, relishing the breathlessness induced by the rarefied air. Three
pleasantly disorienting days followed as jet-lag, the 7,500ft altitude, the
rhythm of Ramadan and the thrill of the unknown convinced the children
that a week was passing.

Losing ourselves in the labyrinth of the suq, we were stunned to find

everything so affordable, £1 buying 260 rials compared with only 10 in the
1980s. The boys were soon cheaply kitted out in colourful sarongs and
curved daggers, our daughter in a skirt, leggings and headcloth.

Passers-by were delighted to see tourists once more. Abandoning the

warnings of "stranger danger" preached by British schools, the children
soon got used to being patted. My partner marvelled at her ability to move
at ease through the streets of a capital city at 2am. Our welfare seemed to
concern the whole world. We could not stop to buy without strangers
intervening to make doubly sure we were not being overcharged.

The rigours of fasting seemed not to dent the geniality of the swarming
crowds. After the sunset meal, their exuberance was infectious, their
curiosity even more pressing. Invitations to come and chew qat , the
favoured recreational drug of most highland Yemenis, were rebuffed with
difficulty. Our younger son was grabbed by a man keen to teach him to
dance. Within seconds, the road was blocked by a circle of swirling dancers,
daggers flashing.

In the suq, we were accosted by a stern man, whose bearing, expensive

dagger and clean clothes showed him to be a tribesman of some rank.
"Would we like to be kidnapped?" he asked. He could get his tribe to do the
deed and would split the profits with us. It began the first of many
discussions about the solitary fatal terrorist incident which has destroyed the
tourist industry.

Some 84,000 tourists visited Yemen in 1997; fewer than a tenth of that
number came in 1999. A developed tourist infrastructure (a hundred local
213

tourist agencies, comfortable hotels in major towns, a much-improved road

and air network) stands idle. We did not meet a single tourist for the first
two of our three weeks in Yemen.

Dogs dozed in the shuttered doorway of the main tourist-information office

in Sana'a. Disturbed from his own Ramadan slumbers, the man in charge
rallied a smile and a prayer for better times as he opened up.

WE FLEW from Sana'a to Hadramawt, not risking the overland route

through the ancient city of Marib and across the dunes of the Empty
Quarter. Here the writ of the tribes carries more weight than that of the
government, and travellers to these remote parts are advised to pay £200 for
a group of Bedouins to drive ahead and alert would-be brigands that the
travellers are locally vouched for.

We descended from the plateau into the claustrophobic world of the 200km
canyon of Wadi Hadramawt. In Sayyun's best hotel, air-conditioned doubles
with satellite TV cost only £10-£15 a night. In Tarim, we stayed in an
ornate former palace, built entirely of mud (except for the swimming pool).
In Shibam, "the Manhattan of Arabia", one of three Unesco World Heritage
Sites in Yemen, we wandered among the tower-houses, dodging goats and
chatting to souvenir-shop owners desperate for a return to better times.

Leaving the sealed roads, we entered the side wadi of Daw'an, fabled for its
honey, the acumen of its businessmen and the grandiose mansions with
which they proclaim their success.

Then in one memorable day, we drove, perched on the roof-rack of our

Landcruiser, from the Hadramawt to the Indian Ocean, crossing 300km of
cold, stony steppe. The day ended in a fine hotel overlooking the sweeping
bay of Mukalla and conversations with men eager to practise English and
reminisce about the "paradise" of pre-Marxist British rule.
214

The long drive from Mukalla to Aden had its distractions: a school of
dolphins leisurely cruising along the shore; climbing to the rim of an extinct
volcano; chasing massive crabs along a deserted beach. Most exciting was
the VIP treatment from the Yemeni army. In this area, where tourists were
killed in 1998, the government takes no chances. For hundreds of
kilometres, we were escorted by a succession of groups of armed men. The
total premium paid to many soldiers for this additional travel insurance,
negotiated in instalments at each check-point, was £15.

In the time-warp of Aden, we stayed in Crater, our hotel next to the

Hurricane Cinema, from which we ventured to eat ridiculously cheap fish.
Struggling to get back on its feet in the aftermath of the 1994 "war of
secession", Aden is surely set to rival Goa and Mombasa as a winter-holiday
destination. Its imposing physical presence, its perfect coves and beaches,
the excitement of the balmy nights made it hard to leave.

Christmas Day saw us chatting with the operator of a camel-driven sesame

oil mill before putting the Landcruiser to its sternest test as we scaled the
terraced slopes of Jabal Hufash. Sitting under a bush for a festive lunch, my
daughter spotted a partridge perched in a prickly pear tree.

The children were made much of in the mountain-top community of

Manakha, poised on top of the pass linking Sana'a to the sea. The Hajjara
Tourist Hotel provided riveting entertainment, waiters and cooks nightly
metamorphosing into mesmeric dancers, singers and drummers. We tottered
on donkeys over the mountains to a pilgrimage centre for a schismatic
group of Ismailis.

A final surprise lay in store. I looked round and my daughter had

disappeared. Minutes passed before she re-emerged from a house wearing a
veiled headdress. She could not be parted from it.

I was photographing her when a bearded man berated me for my lack of

respect for Islam. Did I not know that Yemeni women should not be
215

photographed? On realising she was my daughter, he slunk away, stricken

with embarrassment, to the amusement of bystanders.

As the millennium dawned, the children braced themselves against the

3,000m chill of Yemen's highest town. New Year, as with Christmas, went
blissfully unremarked by a people confident in the strength of their ancient
culture and determined to overcome obstacles and build a self-reliant, and
increasingly democratic, state.
216
217

http://216.239.57.104/search?q=cache:jCNkDbjHQ5kJ:www.play
backnet.org/interplay/Previousissues/April%252003/Burundi%25
20journal.pdf+journal+burundi&hl=en&ie=UTF-8

Page 1
Burundi Journal
By Jonathan Fox
10 March 2003. Departure day minus one—making last calls, transferring
phone
numbers into my pocket organizer, trying to decide whether to take my
mobile phone
(will it work in Africa?), sending a last email to my colleague, Karin, in
Switzerland.
Friends have urged me not to go because of the danger there. I have not
been swayed.
Nor am I intimidated by those who argue for staying at home because of the
perilous
world situation.
But I am worried about the news that we will be holding the training in
Ngozi, a
provincial town close to the Rwandan border. A year and a half ago I
worked in
Bujumbura, the capital, which is protected by the army. I know nothing of
Ngozi, but I
know the rebel groups operate from the hills.
At Heathrow Airport Karin and I meet up, take a cappuccino before the long
flight to
Africa. Her playback group is at the same moment sitting in a Zurich
restaurant after
their rehearsal; by telephone Karin and her colleagues exchange fond last
words. We
are off to teach as part of the School of Playback Theatre’s Libra Project.
The clouds break to reveal the green hills, a swath of Lake Tanganyika. The
air on the
218

tarmac is tropical. We see banana trees, hear a magpie’s liquid call. In the
jeep, I tell the
chic office manager, Nadine, in French (the colonial language of Burundi),
that I am
happy to be back. She answers, “Why?” I am suddenly nonplussed, not sure
how to
respond.
A day later in Ngozi, a one-road bustling town, we stand on a hotel terrace
looking out
over a lush valley. In the foreground people walk along the
red-dirt road with loads on their heads. A few bicycles go by,
even fewer vehicles. A solid fence, with a heavy gate that
locks at night, secures the hotel. Inside the flowers are
beautifully kept by three gardeners.
Pulcherine, one of my students from the initial training in ’01,
greets me. “Our prayers are answered,” she says, enfolding
me in her arms. Later, when I question the members of the Tubiyage
Theatre
Association I am impressed to hear how much they have done. “Many
playback theatre
performances,” they say. “How many?” I ask. They are not sure. I ask
Michel Ange, the
leader, for a list.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Page 2
Their questions are those of experienced playbackers. They tell me that their
problem is
too many audience members wanting to tell. That is the best kind of
problem, I say.
They tell me a story: In a performance a widower told about his struggle to
raise his
kids alone and his subsequently inviting a woman to live with them, even
though she
was not his wife and the arrangement was not sanctioned by the authorities.
Seeing the
219

story enacted, he broke down. How he cried! the students say. Afterwards,
an audience
member, who happened to be the civil administrator responsible, stood up
and said he
did not realize how difficult life had been for the teller and his family, and if
he would
come to the office, the administrator would fix everything at once.
The actors tell me that they usually perform Forum Theatre (Theatre of the
Oppressed)
for the first half, and playback theatre for the second. But they gently
complain about
the time needed to prepare the pieces for the Forum Theatre, and admit that
not
infrequently their choices miss with the audience. Playback theatre, they
say, by
definition, always meets the interests of the audience.
We start the work, 27 students in a cement room. Many faces at the
windows looking in
at us. Noise from all sides. In the training there are two main subgroups: the
experienced students from Bujumbura, most of them university educated
and with
acting backgrounds; and students from the Ngozi region, who have received
a one-
week training from Michel Ange. Most of these students do not speak
French, and so
we translate everything from French to Kirundi.
The sponsoring organization supplies lunch, plentiful helpings of rice,
beans, fried
bananas, with some meat. The meal is a necessary component of the
training. Outside
the fence, hungry eyes watch us eat. I am embarrassed. Each day one
student or another
arranges for a few to be called in and given the leftovers. How kind they are
to those
with less than they; and how different from our attitude in the West.
220

On the second day, with our encouragement, Vital brings his guitar. He
plays it proudly,
but it is so old and with strings so stretched that it cannot be tuned. He has
brought it
from his village, a two-hour walk away. We stop each day at four in the
afternoon so
that he and others can get home safely before dark.
During the long evenings we sit with the students, talk among ourselves,
look out from
our terrace at the rice-covered valley. Karin serves me slices of papaya and
pineapple
she has bought at the market. It is peaceful in Ngozi. Time moves like the
people on the
road, one slow step at a time. At night among friends, there is almost always
the singing
of long, freely improvised call-and-response songs.
In the first nights, sleepless from time change and excitement, I lay awake
fearing the
pop of rebel guns. Thoughts of Burundi’s long civil war, called “la crise”
by the
inhabitants, mix with images of American soldiers pointing weapons
towards Baghdad.
The nighttime closes in on me.
2
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Page 3
During our playback practice, the stories in the whole group feature love
and marriage,
but when we set exercises in small groups, we can see much violent action.
It is in a
group of four that Bernard* tells his story of trying to escape to Rwanda
during a
particular difficult period, but being attacked by Burundian soldiers, who
beat him so
badly he was left for dead.
221

I work with the experienced actors on portraying violence, urging them to

slow down
and not fall into the almost slap-stick mode that is their habit. I also give
them theory
about how playback can transform traumatic memory into narrative
memory, crucial to
the healing process.
On my own at night I dream of war. At dawn, roosters, then the sun rising
over the
valley.
We have to move workspaces, make many adjustments. I do not know if I
will ever get
my list of Tubiyage performances: Michel Ange has said that he will type it
up for me,
but the office does not have much equipment, and after the first training,
when I had
tried to maintain email communication with Michel Ange, my messages
from the US
had bounced back.
We arrange four performances for the students: at the
university; in a village hall; at the local office of CARE, one of
the sponsoring NGO’s; and for a small group of women
attached to a women’s center. This last performance is an effort
to create an intimate enough setting for the students to tackle
serious stories.
The intimate performance takes place on the day the US invades
Iraq. I am very upset. The first two thirds of the performance
follows a classic pattern of tellers recounting their everyday stories: two
mothers tell
proud stories about the birth and raising of their children. Then one of our
students,
sitting in the audience, raises his hand urgently. He is called Baptiste. His
story is about
the death of his mother when he was 12.
222

I am moved, for here is the red thread operating at its most profound: after
the mother’s
perspective, a story from a child; after stories of endurance and joy, a story
of great loss.
I am also moved because I am feeling at this moment that playback theatre
can be a
source of good in the world, opposing violence and war.
But the actors do Baptiste’s
*
story as a tableau, avoiding its tragedy. They are afraid, I
think. Baptiste is polite and does not express disappointment. The next teller
tells a long
tale about war, betrayal, and forgiveness, but it is hard to make sense of,
because by not
fulfilling Baptiste’s story, the red thread is broken.
3
*
Name changed for privacy.
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Page 4
The next day, in the performance at CARE headquarters, Baptiste is again
in the
audience; again he becomes the teller, and with the same story. Again, the
actors—a
different set, who had not been present the day before—chose to do it as a
tableau. This
time Baptiste looks crestfallen.
We are coming to the end. The actors have completed their performances,
marking the
challenge and excitement of the first time for the Ngozi group, and the
chance for
feedback for the experienced group.
All that remains is evaluation and our last lunch together. And before that a
final
morning’s work. I keep thinking of Baptiste. I invite him to tell his story
once more. We
223

coach the actors on how to do it. They perform courageously. The audience
response is
unexpected, however. About fifteen seconds into the interview, some people
begin to
cry. After two minutes, two have left the room. There is such distress that
after the
enactment I suggest a kind of transformation. It is not for the teller;
Baptiste, finally, has
that look of relaxation that comes after one has really seen one’s story
portrayed well.
Rather the transformation (“Tell us about a happy moment between you and
your
mother, any moment you remember.”) is for the audience. We also do a
series of fluid
sculptures. Many different feelings are expressed, including “I never feel a
thing,
including now.”
I have given Baptiste during the interview my big bandana handkerchief to
wipe his
eyes. When the whole process is over, he returns it to me, but I push his
hand back.
“Keep it,” I say, “on behalf of Tubiyage. Call it le Mouchoir des Larmes
[handkerchief of
tears], and lend it to the tellers when they tell their stories.”
Michel Ange comes to me on the last day with a printed list of Tubiyage
performances.
The total is 72. We are all amazed. The audiences are students, staffs, the
public at large.
Many NGO’s have hired them, including CARE, Search for Common
Ground, the
Norwegian Refugee Council.
The answer to Nadine’s question, Why be happy to return to Burundi? is
now clear to
me. Of course I am glad to return just to learn this news about playback
theatre. The
224

idea of playback theatre in Africa, especially devoted to tasks of

reconciliation, had
seemed “experimental” up to the time of this trip. But this list speaks of
great promise
for it. Furthermore, one is always glad to see again the lovely people one
has once
farewelled forever. Finally, I am glad to find myself again in the slow pace
and human
scale of traditional culture. It is a most complicated subject, of course. We
cannot turn
our backs on modernity. But the soul cries out for more singing and more
walking,
nonetheless.
Karin and I will board our plane back to Nairobi, London, and our separate
countries
with many questions. In a county with so many wounds and such an urge to
tell, can
playback actors hold the ritual event? What kind of performance is best for
a place like
Burundi, so factionalized by ethnicity and loss? In a world of limited time
and money,
4
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Page 5
exactly what support do the playback teams need? These are questions, of
course,
facing not only the Tubiyage actors, but playback theatre actors everywhere.
On the last evening, we say our good-byes. This time, with so much
playback success
behind us, we are not so afraid of never seeing each other again. So many
handshakes,
so many hugs. In the tumult, Baptiste approachs me. He says it soft and
quick. “I’ll try
to keep it well,” he says, “our Mouchoir des Larmes.”
The School of Playback Theatre is accepting donations to support its Libra
225

Project work, such as training groups like Tubiyage in Burundi and

increasing access to playback resources around the world. Donations may be
made by credit card or direct transfer. Please email the School at
mailto:playbackschool@hvi.net
for instructions on how you can help.
226

http://www.travelchat.be/iran.html

Salam - Welcome to Iran !

Iran Links | Country Index | Home
Iran. The country is not on most people's wish-list. Generally, people are put
off by the very appearance of the country : it's ruled by bearded, turbaned
Ayatollahs and Muslim clerics who are totally intolerant of anything even
vaguely Western. Women travellers loathe having to cover up from head to
toe and comply with the respective law; the wearing of a headscarf or
chador is compulsory.
Iran is not a place one heads to for a holiday on the beach, but it has several
other things to offer. There are good skiing, trekking and climbing
opportunities and a good selection of sights often associated with the
Middle East : fascinating old mosques, fairytale palaces, ancient cities and
labyrinthine bazaars.
Still, having been there now, I can only say: never before was I so glad to be
out of a country ! I even returned a week earlier than planned. Iran really got
under my skin. From the moment I arrived in the land, I was seriously
cheated. People didn't respect bargained prices and when I refused to pay
their ridiculously high quotes, I was met with verbal aggression and a
couple of times even with the physical kind. Many of the taxi drivers and
people in the hotel business were rude and completely dishonest. I had
expected things to improve once I was out of the capital. They didn't. On the
contrary, the dishonest were joined by beggars. The country is not unsafe,
but there is a constant feeling of being unwanted. Although exaggerated, the
Western viewpoints towards the country sadly are partially true. Many have
extreme visions; the intolerance level is pretty high. At one time in a
mosque, I thought a cat was being chased off, but no, it was me ! I also met
truly friendly people, but unfortunately they were a minority.
Add to the above the enormous air pollution, which - especially in Tehran -
is so high it's downright dangerous. Also add the long distances between
points of interest, the usually boring landscape (in the interior), the total
227

lack of colour and cheer and the fact that even the most famous of sights
didn't manage to excite me, and you have a country which doesn't hold a lot
of attraction. After all the positive reports by fellow travellers, I couldn't
believe I didn't like it, but sorry, there was no way the place could 'catch'
me. But, please, by all means go and see for yourself. Perhaps it was just me
in this case, and am I doing wrong to the country and its people (which is
not at all my intention !).