Crochet The Complete Step by Step Guide

Crochet
The complete step-by-step guide

Essential techniques More than 80 patterns
Crochet
Crochet
The complete step-by-step guide
Essential techniques More than 80 crochet patterns
LONDON, NEW YORK, MUNICH,
MELBOURNE, DELHI
DK UK
Senior Editor May Corfield
Senior Art Editor Glenda Fisher
Editor Katharine Goddard
Managing Editor Penny Smith
Managing Art Editor Marianne Markham
Jacket Designer Rosie Levine
Producer, Pre-Production Sarah Isle
Producer Che Creasey
Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier
Photography Ruth Jenkinson
Art Director/Stylist for Photography Isabel de Cordova
Art Director Jane Bull
Publisher Mary Ling
DK US
Senior Editor Shannon Beatty
US Editor Margaret Parrish
US Consultant Jennifer Wendell
DK INDIA
Senior Editor Dorothy Kikon
Art Editors Zaurin Thoidingjam, Neha Wahi
Assistant Editor Aditi Batra
Assistant Art Editor Pooja Verma
Managing Editor Alicia Ingty
Managing Art Editor Navidita Thapa
Pre-Production Manager Sunil Sharma
Production Manager Pankaj Sharma
DTP Designers Neeraj Bhatia, Rajdeep Singh
First American Edition, 2014

Published in the United States by DK Publishing
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Contents
Introduction 6 Project patterns Child’s edged slippers 220
Flower blanket 142 Ladies’ soft slippers 222
Tools and techniques Lap blanket 144 Ladies’ ankle socks 224
Yarns 12 Colorful granny blanket 146 Men’s chunky socks 226
Hooks and other equipment 18 Baby blanket 148 Baby’s crossover cardigan 230
Basic stitches 22 Chevron pillow 152 Child’s poncho 234
Beaded necklace 28 Granny pillow 154 Striped sweater 236
Chunky bracelet 30 Owl pillow 156 Child’s hoodie 240
Striped washcloths 34 Desktop storage pots 162 Summer tunic dress 246
Cell phone covers 36 Structured baskets 164 Cropped sweater 250
Self-fringing scarf 40 Hanging toy basket 166 Ladies’ textured cardigan 254
Textured pillow 44 Round stool cover 168 Animal rattles 260
Pretty headbands 46 Rustic ottomans 170 Giant play ball 264
Party bunting 54 Cat basket 174 Mother elephant and baby 266
Coaster set 58 Fruit bowl 176 Rag doll 270
Pot holders 60 Filigree bookmarks 178 Polar bear with scarf 274
Circular pillow 64 Fish and starfish garland 180 Floppy-eared bunny 278
Following a crochet pattern 66 Flower pin cushion 184 Jungle finger puppets 282
Care of crochet 75 Chunky rug 186 Granny square bag 288
Stitch techniques 76 Baby bonnet 190 Straw beach bag 290
Flower garland 80 Child’s hat with ears 192 Super-stretchy shopper 292
Embellishments for crochet 86 Men’s beanie hat 194 Everyday bag 294
Working crocheted edges 96 Child’s hat with earflaps 196 Diamond granny bag 296
Crochet-edged pillows 98 Women’s beret 198 Clutch bag 300
Circular crochet 100 Lacy scarf 200 Child’s turtle backpack 302
Openwork 108 Broomstick lace shawl 202 Change purses 306
Shell mesh scarf 116 Tweed stitch cowl 204 Tablet sleeve 308
Colorwork 118 Men’s chunky scarf 206
Intarsia pillow 122 Child’s wrist warmers 210 Glossary 310
Unusual stitches 124 Child’s mittens with string 212 Index 312
Unusual yarns 126 Ladies’ wrist warmers 214 Acknowledgments 320
Crocheted toys 130 Baby girl’s booties 216
Teddy bear 132 Baby boy’s booties 218
Felted crochet 136
6
Introduction
This book is suitable for all crocheters—beginners with no previous
experience, as well as those with more advanced skills. If you have never held
a crochet hook before, but want to learn, this book will take you through all
the basic crochet stitches to enable you to make beautiful items, both small
and large. If you already know how to crochet, you will find a wonderful
collection of unique and attractive, good-value patterns to try out.
Crochet guides you through the basic techniques and stitches—presented clearly
and simply with step-by-step photographs—covering the relevant abbreviations and
symbols on the way. Beginners can work through the comprehensive and easy-to-
follow techniques section in the first part of the book, stopping along the way to try
out a mini project to practice the stitch they have just learned. More experienced
crocheters can dip into this section to revisit stitches they already know. The mini
projects include items ranging from a simple chain stitch bracelet (pp. 30–31) to
a stylish intarsia pillow (pp. 122–123).
Once you are confident with all the crochet stitches, you can launch into the projects
chapter and begin making crocheted items as diverse as a traditional granny blanket
(pp. 148–151) for a baby, a tiny flower pin cushion (pp. 184–185), and a little girl’s
summer tunic dress (pp. 246–249).
With more than 80 projects to choose from, there is something for everyone: from
blankets and pillows, to hats and scarves; gloves, socks, and slippers; items for the
home; garments and bags; plus a range of charming toys to make. Crochet will enable
you to make your own unique, custom-made crocheted pieces for yourself, your home,
and your family and friends.
Crochet know-how
Each project shows the yarn and stitch gauge used (if relevant), but the
main yarn recommendation is a generic one, to enable you to make an
item in a yarn that is easily available to you. For example, the simple
beaded necklace on pages 28–29 is made with DMC Petra Crochet
Cotton Perle No. 3 yarn, but you can use any yarn that you have for
this, as long as you ensure that the thread you are using will fit through
the holes of the beads. Similarly, for the chunky rug on pages 186–187,
we have used an acrylic yarn for its durable properties, but you could
use another super-chunky weight yarn with a synthetic content to get
a similar effect; just bear in mind that the size might be slightly
different, depending on the yarn weight.
A note about yarn and hooks

It is also important to consider the fact that for some projects, for
example, the filigree bookmarks (see pp. 178–179), and the jungle
finger puppets (pp. 282–285), you will only need a certain proportion
of the ball of yarn recommended for each color, and you will have yarn
left over. However, look on this as an opportunity to make more of the
same, or use it for a new project!
When making items such as garments, or other projects for which

gauge is important, it is always advisable to crochet a gauge swatch first
in the yarn you intend to use; if your gauge swatch is smaller than that
recommended, you may need to use a larger hook; if it is larger, use a
smaller hook. With many projects, the gauge is not a vital element,
for example, the coasters on pages 58–59, and the cat basket on
pages 174–175, do not need to be an exact size.
Make sure that you calculate the amount of yarn needed for a project
by yardage/meterage, since the amount needed may vary and different
weights of yarn have different yardage/meterage lengths. Check your
hook size, too. As you become more experienced as a crocheter, so you
will become accustomed to which hook sizes are appropriate for the
different types of yarn.
A note about crocheted toys

When making crocheted toys for babies or very young children, it is
always safest either to embroider the eyes onto the toy or use special
safety eyes. Never use buttons on a toy that is for a baby or very young
child, since there is the risk that the child could choke on the buttons
if they become detached. If you are using safety eyes on toys, always
make sure that they comply with current safety regulations.
Extend your skills

In addition to a comprehensive guide to basic stitches and techniques,
Crochet provides an extensive gallery of stitch textures, crocheted
edgings, openwork, and colorwork, as well as a guide to making granny
squares and stunning flowers, all with patterns. Use these to build on
your basic crocheting skills, before embarking on more adventurous
and impressive crochet patterns, and you will find yourself equipped
to create any project in the book!
Size chart
Women’s sizes To fit bust (approx)
S (small) 32in (80cm)
M (medium) 36in (91cm)
L (large) 41in (102cm)
Slipper/sock sizes Sole length (approx)

Baby 3–6 months 4–41⁄2in (10–11cm)
Child 2–7 years 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm)
Women’s 5 ⁄2–9 ⁄2
1 1
83⁄4–101⁄4 in (221⁄2–26cm)
Men’s 9–12 103⁄4–111⁄2in (271⁄2–291⁄2cm)
Tools and
techniques
12 Tools and techniques
Yarns
There are many types of yarn, allowing crocheters to enjoy a variety of sensory
experiences as they express themselves through the medium. Yarn may be made
of different fibers and have a range of textures, as shown here.
Fibers
Yarns, like fabrics, are made from fibers. A fiber may be the hair from an animal, or softness). Different blends are also created for aesthetic reasons, such
man-made (synthetics), or derived from a plant. The fibers are processed and as mixing soft, luxurious cashmere with a rougher wool. As a result, all yarns
spun to make yarn. Yarn may be made from a single fiber, such as wool, or mixed have different properties, so it is important to choose an appropriate blend
with other fibers to enhance its attributes (for example, to affect its durability for the project in hand.
Merino wool Wool

This is wool from the merino sheep, which is said to have one of the softest The hair, or wool, of a variety of breeds of sheep, such as the Shetland
wools of any sheep breed. The bouncy, smooth-surfaced fiber is just as warm Moorit or Bluefaced Leicester, is made into pure wool yarns, or blended with
as a more wiry, coarse wool. Merino is a fantastic choice for wearing against the other fibers. It is very warm and durable, and great for winter wear such as
skin, and is often treated to make it suitable for machine-washing. It is good for jackets, cardigans, hats, and gloves. Some wool is rough, but it will soften
soft scarves, arm warmers, and children’s garments. with wear and washing. Wool sold as “organic” contains a high proportion
of lanolin, making a strong, waterproof yarn.
Fine-weight
cotton yarns
This yarn is a good
Cotton crochet threads weight for garments and
Traditionally, crochet was worked in cotton threads that were accessories and will show
suitable for lace. Today, cotton threads are still used for lace the texture of stitch
edgings and filet crochet (see pp. 90–95 and pp. 108–115). patterns clearly.
Yarns 13
Acrylic Natural and synthetic mixes

Acrylic fibers are produced from ethylene, Man-made fibers are often blended with natural
which is derived from oil, and they are very fibers to bring structure, strength, and washability;
cheap to manufacture. Acrylic yarn feels also to alter their appearance, such as to add a
slightly rougher than other synthetics, sheen. They help bind other yarns, such as mohair
and often comes in very bright and and wool, together and prevent shedding; they also
luminous shades that are hard to prevent animal fibers from shrinking. The strength of
create with natural fibers. Robust and such blends makes them perfect for socks and gloves.
resistant to moths, acrylic yarn is ideal
for toys, novelty pieces, and budget
projects. The yarn tends to accumulate
static electricity.
Fabric
Traditionally, fabric from old clothes
and other textiles was often made into
doormats and rugs by tying strips together.
Think about using fabric strips to crochet
with, too. The hook size will depend on
how thick the strips are.
Wire
This unusual medium is often used for crocheting jewelry:
buy beading wire, which is available in a range of colors,
String and crochet it into chokers, necklaces, and bracelets. Try
Ideal for crocheting practical household items such as stranding beads on the wire before you work and place
bowls and boxes, string is available in a range of colors them in the crochet as you go along. For a really unusual
and weights. Experiment on relatively small hooks, such project, strand the wire with another yarn to crochet a
as H/8 US (5mm), to create a very stiff fabric capable of malleable fabric that holds its shape and make three-
holding its shape. Coat finished household items with dimensional sculptures.
diluted craft glue to waterproof them and make future
cleaning easy: just wipe with a damp cloth.
Plastic bags
Recycle plastic bags by cutting them
into strips and joining these together
with tight knots to form yarn. Create
interesting textures by mixing colored
and clear bags; the knots will add
further texture. Crochet with a large
hook, depending on the width of the
strips you have cut—N/15 US (10mm)
upward is recommended; also choose
the size according to whether you want
a very tight or a floppy plastic fabric. Use
this technique to make bags, mats, and
waterproof items such as toiletry bags or
garden seat covers.
Buying yarn
Yarns are packaged for sale in specific quantities and sold by yardage or weight. Common yarn
measures for crochet are balls, hanks, and skeins, and standard weights are 25g, 50g, and 100g.
Donut
Hank The stock in a yarn store may include
A twisted ring of yarn, a hank (also called a skein) needs to be wound into a ball before it can be balls that look like “donuts”. These are
used. You can do this by hand, or by using a ball-winder. This gives you the opportunity to check ready to use: just pull the yarn from
that there are no knots or faults in the yarn as you wind it. Some yarns avaliable as hanks consist the center to start crocheting.
of soft, delicate fibers, and these are unsuitable for certain industrial ball-winding machines.
Ball Cone
A ball of yarn is ready to use without any preparation. This is often too heavy to carry around in a
Keep the label in place as you work to ensure that it project bag and the yarn is best wound into
doesn’t unravel and pull the yarn from the center to balls before you start crocheting.
start crocheting.
Yarn weights
The yarn “weight” refers to the thickness of a yarn. Some yarns are spun by of its loft—the air between the fibers—and the springiness of the strands. By
manufacturers to fall into what are considered as “standard” yarn weights, such pulling a strand between your two hands you can see how much loft it has by
as sport or worsted. These standard weights have long histories and will probably how much the thickness diminishes when the yarn is stretched.
be around for some time to come. However, even within these “standard” weights The ply of a yarn is also not an indication of yarn thickness. Plies are the
there is slight variation in thickness, and textured novelty yarns are not easy to number of strands twisted together around each other in the opposite direction
categorize by thickness alone. from which they were spun to form a strong, balanced yarn (the most common
When defining yarn weight, visual yarn thickness is only one indicator of a yarn plies used in crochet are 3-ply and 4-ply). A yarn with four plies can be very
yarn-weight category. A yarn can look thicker than another yarn purely because thick or very thin, depending on the thickness of each individual ply.
Standard yarn-weight system

Yarn weight symbol
& category names Lace Superfine Fine Light Medium Bulky Super bulky
Crochet gauge ranges 32–42 dc 21–32 sts 16–20 sts 12–17 sts 11–14 sts 8–11 sts 5–9 sts
in sc to 4in/10cm
Recommended hook 1.6–2.25mm 2.25–3.5mm 3.5–4.5mm 4.5–5.5mm 5.5–6.5mm 6.5–9mm 9mm and
in metric size range larger
Recommended hook 6 steel, 7 steel, B/1 to E/4 E/4 to 7 7 to I/9 I/9 to K/101⁄2 K/101⁄2 to M/13 and
in US size range 8 steel, B/1 M/13 larger
Guidelines only
The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and hook sizes for specific yarn categories. The categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended hook sizes
have been devised by the Craft Yarn Council of America (YarnStandards.com).
Yarns 15
Yarn labels
Everything you need to know about a yarn is on its label. It will include symbols that tell you how to crochet
with it and how to clean it. Here is just a selection of the most common symbols. Always keep the labels—they
are vital for identifying the yarn if you run short and need more. New yarn needs to have the same dye lot
number as the original purchase in order to prevent a slight difference in color in the finished item.
Symbols
Yarn manufacturers may 22ss
use a system of symbols

to give details of a yarn. 3 4in 28
rows
These include descriptions

US G/6 (4mm) 4in
of suitable hooks and
the required gauge.
Yarn weight Recommended Gauge over a 4in
and thickness hook size (10cm) test square
50g
100%
SHADE/ DYE LOT
COLOR NUMBER
NETT AT STANDARD
520 313 CONDITION IN

ACCORDANCE WITH
BS984
WOOL
Ball band
A yarn label is also known as a ball Shade/color number Dye lot number Weight of ball Fiber content
band. It features information on the of yarn
yarn’s weight and thickness as well
as washing guidelines. Yarns range
from the fingering and light to the
thick, chunky, and super bulky.
Machine-wash cold Machine-wash cold, Hand-wash cold Hand-wash warm

gentle cycle
A P
Do not bleach Dry-cleanable in Dry-cleanable in Do not dry-clean
any solvent certain solvents
Do not tumble-dry Do not iron Iron on Iron on

low heat medium heat
Choosing yarn colors

When embarking on a new crocheting project, the choice of color is a very
important decision. Even a simple design gains impact from good color choices.
The color wheel is a useful tool that will introduce you to color theory.
The color wheel: The three primary colors—red, yellow, and blue—can be placed
side by side to create a color wheel. When two adjacent colors are combined,
they create “secondaries.” Red and yellow make orange, yellow and blue make
green, and blue and red make purple. Intermediate colors called tertiaries occur
when a secondary is mixed with the nearest primary.
Complementary colors: Colors that lie opposite from one another on the wheel,
such as red and green, or yellow and violet, are called complementaries. They
provide contrasts that accent design elements and make both colors stand out.
Don’t forget black and white, the ultimate opposites.
Hue, shade, tone, and tint: Each segment shows the hue, shade, tone, and tint
of a color. A hue is the pure, bright color; a shade is the color mixed with black;
a tone is the color mixed with gray; and a tint is the color mixed with white
(pastels). The use of color can affect the appearance of a project dramatically.
Monochromatic designs: These use different versions of the same color. So a

project based on greens will not stray into the red section of the color wheel, but
might have shades and tints of yellow and blue mixed in, which can then become
“harmonious” combinations of colors that are next to each other on the color
wheel. These “adjacent” colors can also be combined to great effect, as long
Black and white
as there are differences in value between them. Black and white are not included on the color wheel because they are
not classified as colors. Black is an absence of all color and white is a
Color temperature: Color has a visual “temperature,” with some colors being combination of all colors in the spectrum. Keep in mind that when using
perceived as “warm” and others as “cool.” Many people tend to think of blue and black, not only is your work more difficult to see, but also that texture
its adjacent colors as being cool, while the reds and yellows are warm, but, in fact, work will not be seen to its best effect in the final garment. White, however,
there are warmer and cooler versions of all the primaries; think, for example, of a guarantees that every stitch and detail will be clear; the drawback is that
warm, azure blue and a cold, icy blue. Color temperature is an important element white shows smudges of dirt more quickly and therefore needs to be
in whether a color recedes or advances—that is, in whether it stands out from or washed more frequently.
blends in with the background and surrounding colors.
Warm shades
The warm end of the color spectrum consists mainly of red and yellow tones; browns, oranges, and purple are part
of this group. Use these colors to add richness and depth. A blend of warm shades can be a very flattering mixture
to use, depending on your coloring: hold yarn against your face to see what suits you.
Yarns 17
Cool shades
Blue, green, and violet are at the cool end of the spectrum, and these can look very good used together. Cool colors
are generally darker in tone than warm ones. If used with warm shades, their impact is lessened; if you need to balance
a warm mixture in a project, you will need a higher proportion of cool to warm colors to do it.
Pastels
These very pale, often cool variations of deeper, darker colors are very popular for babies’ and small children’s garments;
consequently, a variety of suitable synthetic yarns and blends are available. Pastels also feature strongly in spring/summer
crochet patterns for adults; look for ice-cream colors in lightweight yarns and enjoy using a delicate color palette.
Brights
Vivid and fluorescent shades are fun to use in a project, and they often make particularly eye-catching accessories or
color motifs. A great way to liven up a colorwork project that consists of muted shades is to add a bright edging or set
of buttons. This burst of color can change the project’s overall impact completely.
Seasonal mixtures
Nature can be a great source of inspiration. Think about sunsets, fall leaves, frosted winter berries, or vibrant spring flowers.
Keep a record in a sketchbook or in photographs, and notice the proportion of each color in view. Most good yarn stores change
their line of colors according to the season; in spring, for example, more pastels and brights will be available.
Hooks and other equipment

Crochet is probably one of the most economical needlework crafts there is, since it requires very little equipment.
In addition to yarn, you will need a crochet hook of appropriate size for the project and a blunt needle for darning
in ends. You will also need some essential pieces that you are likely to have in your sewing kit already.
Crochet hooks
If you are a beginner, start learning to crochet with a good-quality standard metal wool yarn and a size G/6 or 7 US (4mm or 4.5mm) hook, branch out and try some
crochet hook. Once you know how to work the basic stitches with a lightweight other types of hook to find the one that suits you best.
Standard metal hook

Parts of a crochet hook
Throat
The hook lip grabs the yarn to form the
loops and the shank determines the size of
the loop. The crochet handle gives weight
to the tool and provides a good grip. Handle Thumb rest Shank Hook lip
Hook tip
Alternative hook handles

Comfort handle
Hook handles come in different shapes. If you find
the standard crochet hook uncomfortable to hold
because it is too narrow, investigate hooks with
alternative handles. This is a high-quality Japanese
hook designed and refined especially for comfort Metal shank Easy-grip Comfortable
and good grip. and hook thumb rest plastic handle
Hook sizes
Crochet hooks are manufactured in the various sizes (diameters) listed in the hook
conversion chart on the opposite page. The millimeter sizes are the diameters of
the hook shank, which determines the size of the crochet stitches.
Although the middle range of hook

sizes—from size B/1 US (2.25mm) to
size M/13 US (9mm)—is the most
commonly used, the finer and thicker
hooks are also very popular for lace
crochet and jumbo crochet. See
page 14 to find which hook size to
use with the different yarn weights.
Hooks and other equipment 19
Hook types
Conversion chart
This chart gives the conversions
between the various hook-size
Point protector
systems. Where there are no exact
conversions possible the nearest
Lace hooks
equivalent is given.
Because lace crochet hooks are so fine, ranging from size 14 steel US (0.6mm) to
size 5 steel US (1.75mm), they are always manufactured in metal. Keep them with EU US OLD
their metal point protectors in place to prevent accidents. METRIC SIZES UK
0.6mm 14 steel
0.75mm 12 steel
1mm 11 steel
Plastic hooks
1.25mm 7 steel
Plastic hooks are not as precisely made as metal and wooden hooks, but they come
in great colors, so are enjoyable to work with. 1.5mm 6 steel
1.75mm 5 steel
2mm 14
Wooden hooks 2.25mm B/1
Hardwood and bamboo hooks are very attractive and lighter in weight than metal hooks.
They also provide a good grip to prevent your fingers from slipping when crocheting. 2.5mm 12
2.75mm C/2
3mm 10
Metal hooks 3.25mm D/3

Some ranges of aluminum hooks are available in bright colors—a different color for
3.5mm E/4 9
each size, which is handy for picking up the right size at a glance.
3.75mm F/5
4mm G/6 8
4.5mm 7 7
Jumbo hooks 5mm H/8 6

The largest crochet hook sizes—from a size N/15 US (10mm) to a size S US (20mm)—are
5.5mm I/9 5
made in plastic. They are used for making thick crochet fabric very quickly.
6mm J/10 4
6.5mm K/101⁄2 3
7mm 2
8mm L/11
Broomstick
A broomstick is a thick stick used in conjunction with a regular hook to create the lace 9mm M/13
loops in broomstick lace. It is best to use an oversized knitting needle such as this one. 10mm N/15
12mm P
15mm Q (16mm)
Tunisian hooks
A Tunisian hook is longer than a regular hook, since you have to fit on many stitches, as opposed to only 20mm S (19mm)
one stitch with a regular hook. These can be double-ended, like this one, or have a stopper on the end.
Other equipment
In addition to a crochet hook, you will need a blunt-ended yarn needle for darning in yarn ends.
Other essentials include scissors, pins, and a tape measure. Handy extras such as stitch markers
and row counters will help keep track of stitches.
The essentials
Pins
Use pins with glass heads or large heads (such as knitting Stitch markers
pins), for seams and blocking (see p. 70). Small safety pins and stitch markers can be
hooked onto the crochet to mark a specific
row or a specific stitch in the row, or to mark
the right side of your crochet.
Yarn bobbins
Useful for holding short lengths of yarn for
jacquard crochet (see p. 118).
Pin cushion
A useful item to have by your side
when working. Blunt-ended yarn needles
Use these for sewing seams and darning in yarn ends
(make sure the eye of the needle is big enough for your
chosen yarn).
Hooks and other equipment 21
Scissors
Keep a sharp pair of scissors on hand for
cutting yarn and trimming off yarn ends.
Tape measure
Keep a tape measure on hand for checking your
gauge and measuring your crochet.
Row counter
These are useful for keeping
track of where you are in
your crochet. String it on
a length of cotton yarn
and hang it around your
neck—change it each time
you complete a row.
Crochet bag
Bags for crocheters often have several compartments—perfect for
storing equipment and materials for your current project and keeping
everything in one place when you are not working on the crochet.
Basic stitches
Learning to crochet can take some time because there are several basic stitches to master. There
is no need, however, to learn all the stitches at once. With only chain stitches and single crochet
at your disposal, you can make attractive striped blankets and pillow covers in luscious yarns.
Getting started
Before making your first loop, the slipknot (see p. 23), get to know your hook and following page when learning how to make chain stitches. If you learned to crochet
how to hold it. First, review the explanation of the parts of the hook on page 18. as a child, you will automatically hold the hook the way you originally learned, and
Then try out the various hook- and yarn-holding techniques below and on the you should stick to the position you know, whether it is the pencil or knife position.
Holding the hook
)
(5cm
2in
2in (5cm)
Left-handed crocheters hold the Left-handed crocheters hold the
hook in the exact mirror image of hook in the exact mirror image of
right-handed crocheters right-handed crocheters
Pencil position: To hold the hook in this position, grip it as you would a pencil. Knife position: To hold a crochet hook in this position, grip it as you would
If the hook has a shaped thumb rest, position this above your thumb and under when using a table knife to cut food. As for the pencil position, if the hook has
your index finger. The center of your thumb will be about 2in (5cm) from the a thumb rest, settle your thumb and index finger in this shaped section with the
tip of the hook if the hook has a thumb rest, and this is where you should also center of your thumb about 2in (5cm) from the hook tip. Grip a hook without a
hold a hook without a thumb rest. thumb rest the same distance from the tip.
Holding the yarn

To control the flow of the yarn to your hook, you need to lace it around the fingers
of your free hand. Both of the techniques shown here are only suggestions, so feel
free to develop your own.
Left-handed crocheters thread the Left-handed crocheters thread the

yarn through their right hand yarn through their right hand
Method one: Start by winding the yarn around your little finger, then pass it Method two: Wrap the yarn around your little finger, then pass it behind the next
under your two middle fingers and over your index finger. With this method, the finger and over the top of the middle finger and index finger. This method allows
index finger is used to position the yarn. you to position the yarn with either the index finger or middle finger, whichever is
more comfortable and gives you more control (see Tensioning your yarn, opposite).
Basic stitches 23
Making a slipknot
Yarn coming
Yarn tail from ball
1 To make the first loop (called the slipknot) on

your hook, begin by crossing the yarn coming
from the ball over the yarn end (called the yarn tail)
2 Insert the tip of the hook through the circle of
yarn. Then use the hook to grab the ball end
of the yarn and pull the yarn through the circle.
to form a circle of yarn.
Make sure loop

is secure but
slides easily
Ball end of yarn
3 This forms a loop on the hook and a loose, open

knot below the loop. 4 Pull both ends of the yarn firmly to tighten the
knot and the loop around the shank of the hook. 5 Make sure the completed slipknot is tight
enough on the hook that it won’t fall off, but not
so tight that you can barely slide it along the hook’s
shank. The yarn tail on the slipknot should be at
least 6in (15cm) long so it can be threaded onto
a blunt-ended yarn needle and darned in later.
Tensioning your yarn

Yarn going
to ball
Hold your
crochet
firmly, close
Yarn to the hook
going
to ball
1 With your slipknot on your hook, try out some yarn holding techniques. Wrap
the yarn around your little finger and then lace it through your other fingers
as desired, but so that it ends up over the tip of your index finger (or your index
2 As you crochet, grip the yarn tightly with your little finger and ring finger and
release it gently as you form the loops. Use either your index finger or your
middle finger to position the yarn, and hold the base of the crochet close to the
finger and middle finger). hook to keep it in place as the hook is drawn through the loops.
Chain stitches (Abbreviation = ch )

Chain stitches are the first crochet stitches you need to learn because they form vast array of crochet stitch patterns, both dense textured stitches and lacy ones.
the base for all other stitches—called a foundation chain—and for turning chains Practice chain stitches until you are comfortable holding a hook and releasing
(see p. 68). They are used in combination with other basic stitches to create a and tensioning yarn.
Making a foundation chain
Yarn going
to ball Draw a loop through
following arrow
Encircling yarn as
shown by arrow Yarn tail
is abbreviated “yo”
1 Start with a slipknot on your hook (see p. 23). Wrap the yarn around the hook;
this action is called “yarn over hook” (abbreviated yo) in crochet patterns.
When working a yo, move your hook under the yarn at the same time as you
2 With the yarn gripped in the lip of the hook, draw a loop of yarn through the
loop on the hook. (Hold the base of the slipknot with the free fingers of your
yarn hand as you draw the loop through.)
move the yarn slightly forward.
Back of
chain
Front of chain
1 chain made
The back of the foundation

chain has little bumps along
it, as seen here.
3 This completes
the first chain. 4 Yo and draw a loop through the loop on the hook for each new stitch.
Continue making chains in the same way until you have the number
specified in your crochet pattern.
Basic stitches 25
Counting chain stitches
Do not
count
loop
6 5 4 3 2 1 on hook
Counting correctly: As you make chains for the foundation chain, count
each stitch until you have made the required number. Then, before starting
your crochet, recount the chains to check that you have the correct number.
With the front of the chain facing you, start counting the stitches from the
base of the hook and count leftward.
Fastening off chains and slip stitches

Stopping your crochet when it is complete is called fastening off. Since there is visual aid for how to fasten off a length of chains or a row of slip stitches.
only one loop on your hook, the process is extremely simple and quick! Here is a The principle is the same for all stitches in crochet.
Fastening off a length of chains Fastening off slip stitches

1 Remove the loop
from the hook. Pull
out the loop to enlarge
it so that it does not
start to unravel.
2 Cut the yarn, pass

the cut yarn end
through the loop, and
pull tightly to close the
loop. Make sure you
leave a long enough
yarn end to darn
invisibly into the chain
later, if necessary.
Securing ends: Fasten off in the same way as for the chain stitches.
Alternatively, you can use the hook to draw the cut end through the
remaining loop, as shown here by the large arrow.
Slip stitch (Abbreviation = ss )

Slip stitches are the shortest of all the crochet stitches. Although they can be crochet instructions. They are used to join in new yarn (see p. 57), to work
worked in rows, the resulting fabric is so dense that it is only really suitable for invisibly along the top of a row in order to move to a new position (see p. 53),
crocheting bag handles. Slip stitches, however, appear very frequently in and to join rounds in circular crochet.
Working slip stitch as a fabric
1
2
1 Make a foundation chain of the required length.

To begin the first stitch, insert the hook through
the second chain from the hook, passing the hook
2 Holding the base of the chain firmly with the
fingers of your left hand and tensioning the
yarn (see p. 23), draw a loop back through the chain
3 Continue across the foundation chain, working
a slip stitch into each chain in the same way.
Always work slip stitches fairly loosely for whatever
under only one strand of the chain. Then wrap the and through the loop on the hook, as shown by the purpose you are using them.
yarn around the hook (yo). large arrow.
Make 1 chain
before starting
each row
4 After the last stitch of the row has been completed, and if you
want to work another row, turn your crochet to position the yarn at
the right edge of the piece of crochet ready to begin the second row.
5 To begin a second row of slip stitches, make one chain stitch. This chain is called the
turning chain. For the second and following rows of slip stitch, work each stitch into
the back loop only of the top of the stitches below. (It is not essential for a beginner to
practice working slip stitch in rows, since it is rarely used this way.)
Using slip stitches to form a foundation ring

Making a ring: Slip stitches are
also used to form the foundation
rings for circular crochet (see p. 100).
Make the required number of chains
for the ring, then insert the hook
through the first chain made, wrap
the yarn around the hook, and draw
a loop through the chain and the
loop on the hook to close the ring.
These motifs are formed by first making a
foundation ring. The technique, explained left,
only requires basic crochet stitches. To practice
making them, see pp. 104–107 for a selection of
vibrant granny squares (also known as afghan
squares) and flowers.
Beaded necklace
The most basic of stitches is used to stunning effect with this necklace, which is
made with just chains and beads. This stylish piece of jewelry includes a series of
long chains, but you can reduce the number of stitches to shorten its length.
NOTE To thread the beads onto the chain,
you need to be sure that the beading hook can
PROJECTS pass through the holes in the beads, so don’t
For more chain stitch patterns choose any beads with tiny holes.
>> go to pages 180 and 212
Pattern
Make a chain of the desired length for your
Essential information first bead placement.
Pull up the loop on the hook to make it larger
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Easy
and remove the hook from the loop.
SIZE Approx 19in (48cm) long Place a bead onto the shaft of the beading
hook, then insert the hook into the
YARN Use any yarn for this project—it requires
elongated loop.
only a very small amount so is perfect for using up
scraps. The chain will simply be thicker or thinner—
just make sure that the thread can fit through the
Pull the loop through the bead and work
1 ch to secure it, pulling on the yarn to make 1 Make around 14 even chain stitches and then
slide a bead up close to the hook.
sure that the yarn is tight around the bead.
holes of the beads you have chosen
Repeat these actions at intervals to place all
the beads desired.
Work a length of chain after the last bead has
x1 been placed, and join this with a ss to the first
chain made on the necklace to form a ring and
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2mm) hook complete the necklace.
1.5mm beading hook, or size needed to fit Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
through your beads
NOTIONS Yarn needle

Selection of beads
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential
2 Thread the bead onto the yarn and make a chain

stitch tightly around the bead to secure it in
position on the necklace.
>> This necklace is made with DMC Petra

No. 3, 306yds/280m/100g, in 53903.
Chunky bracelet
Create a bracelet with simple charm. Work the chain to a length that fits
comfortably around your wrist once for a short bracelet, or multiply this
by as many times as you want for a longer, thicker-looking bracelet.
NOTE Increasing the number of strands of 3-strand variation
yarn you hold together to crochet with will With 3 strands of yarn, make a chain to your
PROJECTS vary the bracelet’s thickness. desired length, plus 3 ch. Ss into third ch from
For more chain stitch patterns hook. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
>> go to pages 28 and 212 Pattern
With a single strand of yarn, make a chain to Finishing
your desired length, plus 5 ch. Ss into fifth ch Sew a bead or button to the opposite end
Essential information from hook. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. from the loop fastening.

2-strand variation
SIZE Approx 231⁄2in (60cm) long With 2 strands of yarn, make a chain to your
desired length, plus 4 ch. Ss into fourth ch >> This bracelet is made with Classic Elite Wool
YARN Use any small amounts of DK yarn for this
from hook. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. Bamboo DK, 118yds/108m/50g, in Shale (1677).
project, or try different weights—the chain will
simply get thicker or thinner depending on the
weight of the yarn
x1
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle

Approx 1⁄2in (1cm) button or bead for fastening
1 When the chain is the desired length, make a

loop by working an extra 5 chains and then make
a slip stitch into the fifth chain from the hook.
2 Attach a bead or button securely to the
opposite end from the loop using the same
yarn, and then weave in loose ends.
Single crochet (Abbreviation = sc)

Single crochet is the easiest crochet stitch to learn and the one that crocheters much easier to master. Single crochet stitch creates a dense fabric that is
use the most frequently, either on its own or in combination with other stitches. well suited for many types of garment and accessory. It is also the stitch used
Take your time and learn to single crochet confidently by practicing the stitch, for toys and containers because it can be worked tightly to form a stiff, firm
because once you become proficient in single crochet the taller stitches will be textile that holds up well.
Working in rows: When single crochet is worked

back and forth in rows, it looks identical on both sides.
Worked in the round it looks different on the right and
1 Make a foundation chain of the required length
(see p. 24). Insert the hook through the second
stitch from the hook and wrap the yarn around
2 Holding the base of the chain firmly with your
left hand and tensioning the yarn (see p. 23),
draw a loop back through the chain, as shown by
wrong sides, which you can see on page 100. the hook (yo), following the large arrow. (You can the large arrow.
insert the hook under one or two strands of the
chain, but working under just one loop, as shown
here, is easiest.)
1 2
Top of first
completed
single crochet
Skipped chain
at beginning of
foundation row
3 There are now 2 loops on the hook. Next, yo as

shown by the large arrow. 4 Draw a loop through both loops on the hook in
one smooth action. As you use the yarn, allow it
to flow through the fingers of your left hand while
5 This completes the first single crochet. The
skipped chain at the beginning of this first row
does NOT count as a stitch on its own (in other
still tensioning it softly. words, it is not counted when you count how many
stitches are in the row and it is not worked into
in the next row).
Basic stitches 33
6 Continue across the foundation chain, working one single

crochet into each chain in the same way. 7 At the end of the row, turn your crochet to position the yarn at the
right edge of the piece of crochet, ready to begin the second row.
1-chain turning
chain does NOT Insert hook under
count as first both strands of
stitch of row top of stitch
8 To begin the second row, make one chain stitch. This chain is
called the turning chain, and it brings the work up to the height
of the single crochet stitches that will follow.
9 Work the first single crochet into the top of the first stitch in the row
below. Be sure to insert the hook under both legs of the “V” of the
stitch. Work a single crochet into the top of each of the remaining single
crochets in the row below.
10 At the end of the row, work the last stitch

into the top of the last single crochet of
the row below. Work following rows as for the
11 When you have completed your crochet, cut the yarn, leaving a long loose end—
at least 6in (15cm) long. Remove the hook from the remaining loop, pass the yarn
end through the loop, and pull tightly to close it. Fastening off like this is done the same
second row. way for all crochet stitches.
Striped washcloths
These easy-to-make washcloths are constructed in single crochet, with
a colorful stripe. They are an ideal practice project for beginners.
Ivory and geranium washcloth ss, work a row of sc evenly around the entire
With yarn A, work 35 ch. edge of the washcloth, placing 3 sc into each
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, *sc into corner stitch to turn the corners. When you
For more single crochet patterns next st, rep from * to end, turn. (34 sc) are back at the first stitch, ss into first stitch
>> go to pages 36 and 54 ROW 2 1 ch, *sc into next st, rep from * to to join round and fasten off yarn.
end, turn. Weave in all ends.
Continue to work in sc until piece measures
Essential information 43⁄4in (12cm), changing to B on last yo of Ivory and turquoise washcloth
last row. Work as for first washcloth until piece
NEXT ROW RS With B, 1 ch, *sc into next st, measures 23⁄4in (7cm), change to C on last
SIZE 8in (20cm) square rep from * to end, turn. yo of final sc.
NEXT ROW WS Ch 1, *sc into next st, rep from Work 4 rows with C, change to A.
YARN Any fingering weight non-mercerized
* to end, change to A on last yo, turn. Work 4 rows with A, change to C.
cotton would be an acceptable alternative
Work two rows with A. Repeat stripe sequence Work 4 rows with C, change to A.
twice more (three stripes worked in B). Continue working sc with A for 23⁄4in (7cm).
Finish with two rows of sc with A. Fasten off yarn. Work the edging in the same
Ax2 Bx1 Cx1 Fasten off yarn. Weave in ends. way as for the first washcloth.
CROCHET HOOK D/3 US (3mm) hook Edging >> These washcloths are made with DMC Natura
With yarn B and RS facing, rejoin yarn to any Cotton, 169yds/155m/50g, in A: Ivory (N02), B:
NOTIONS Yarn needle
point along the edge of the washcloth with a Geranium (N52), and C: Turquoise (N49).
GAUGE 17 sc x 20 rows per 4in (10cm) square
NOTE When changing colors, always add new

color on the last step of the last stitch of the
previous row (see p.39 for instructions).
1 To make the edging, attach the new color to

the top edge of the washcloth with the right
side facing, and single crochet into each stitch all
2 Work 3 sc into the corner stitch to turn, and
continue to single crochet all the way up the
row-end edge of the washcloth, making 3 sc at each
the way to the corner. corner. Join to first stitch of edging with a slip stitch.
Making these washcloths is a great way to practice single
crochet and end up with a useful item when you’re finished. Don’t
worry too much about the gauge of your square; it’s fine for your
washcloth to be slightly smaller or larger than the ones here.
Cell phone covers

Protect your phone from scratches with a rectangular cover made from
single crochet. A speedy project to create, the crochet is simply sewn
together to form a pouch.
Pattern Both covers
With yarn A or B, work 30 ch. BUTTON LOOP ROW Ch 1, 7 sc, 9 ch, sc
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 sc back into last sc to form button loop,
For another pattern with loops into each ch to end. Turn. (29 sc) 1 sc in each sc to end.
>> go to page 60 ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc into each sc to end. Turn. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
Plain cover Finishing

Essential information Repeat row 2 until the work is approx Block piece lightly.
5in (12.5cm). Fold piece in half lengthwise with loop at
top, and sew up bottom and side seam with
SIZE Approx 23⁄4 x 51⁄4in (7 x 13cm) Two-color cover a mattress stitch.
Repeat row 2 until work is approx 4in (10cm). Sew button to corresponding point along
YARN Any DK weight yarn will work—try to use
Change to second color and repeat row 2 until opposite edge to button loop. Insert your
a durable yarn with some acrylic, since the cover
work is approx 5in (12.5cm). phone and fasten button.
will get a lot of use
Ax1 Bx1 C small amount
CROCHET HOOK J/10 US (4mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle

⁄4in (18mm) button to fasten
3
1 To make the button loop on the final row,

sc across to placement of button loop, then
chain 9 sts for the loop.
2 Work 1 sc into the same stitch at the bottom
of the chain to close the loop, then sc to the
end of the row.
>> This phone cover is made with Berroco Comfort,

179yds/165m/50g, in A: Crypto crystalline (2758),
B: Purple (2722), and C: Teaberry (2730).
Button loops make great alternatives to
buttonholes, and are ideal for phone covers where
a single closure point is best. This loop uses just two
crochet stitches—chain stitch and single crochet—
worked into the final row of the phone cover.
Half double crochet (Abbreviation = hdc )

After single crochet, half double crochet comes next in order of stitch warm baby garments. The texture is also more interesting than single crochet,
heights (see p. 68). It is firm like single crochet and is also fairly dense, but but not too lacy. Only learn to make half doubles once you can make single
half double crochet produces a slightly softer texture, which makes it ideal for crochet stitches with confidence.
1
2
3
Working in rows: Half double crochet worked in rows,

as here, looks the same on both sides, making it a totally
reversible fabric, just like all basic stitches worked in rows.
1 Make a foundation chain of the required
length (see p. 24). To begin the first stitch,
wrap the yarn around the hook (yo).
2 Insert the hook through the third chain from
the hook, yo again (as shown by the large
arrow) and draw a loop back through the chain.
1 2 3
Completed half
double crochet
2 skipped chains at
beginning of row
3 There are now 3 loops

on the hook. 4 Yo and draw a loop through all 3 loops on
the hook, as shown by the large arrow. (This
motion becomes more fluid with practice.)
5 This completes the
first half double.
2 chains
1
count as
2 first stitch
of row
6 Work one half double crochet into each chain in

the same way. Remember to start each half double
by wrapping the yarn around the hook before inserting
7 After working a half double crochet into the
last chain, turn the work to position the yarn
at the right edge of the piece of crochet ready
8 Begin the second row by making 2 chains. This
turning chain brings the work up to the height
of the half doubles that follow.
it through the chain. to begin the second row.
Basic stitches 39
Leave an end at least

Insert hook
6in (15cm) long, so it
under both
can be darned in later
strands of
top of stitch
Top of
chain from
previous row
9 Yo and work the first half double into the

top of the second stitch in the row below. 10 Work a half double into each of the remaining
half double crochets in the row below. Work
the following rows as for the second row.
11 When the crochet is complete, cut the yarn.
Remove the hook from the remaining loop,
pass the yarn end through the loop, and pull tightly
to close the loop and fasten off securely.
Joining on new yarn
Method one: Always Method two: This
New yarn
join on a new yarn at the New yarn method is suitable for
beginning of a row, if New slip both stripes and solid
possible. Simply drop the knot crochet fabrics. First,
old yarn and pull the new fasten off the old yarn.
yarn through the loop on Then place a slipknot on
the hook, then begin the hook, insert the hook
the row in the usual through the first stitch of
way. Darn in the yarn the row, and draw a loop
tails later. through the top of the
Old
Old yarn stitch and the loop on
yarn
the hook.
Simple stripes
Stripes worked in basic stitches offer more potential for creativity than most to change colors to start a new stripe and how to carry the yarns up the
crocheters realize. The only techniques you need to learn are how and when side edge of the crochet.
Changing colors Carrying colors up side edge

Work the last yo
of row with next
stripe color
1 When working stripes in any
stitch, always change to the
next color on the last yo of the
last row before the next stripe
color is started.
Drop old
color at
side edge
At the beginning
of every second row,
2 Drawing through the last yo

of the row completes the last
stitch. The new color is now on the
wrap stripe color
not in use around
working yarn
New color
hook ready to start the next stripe
will form
first chain on the next row; this is so that the
of next row first turning chain in the next stripe
is in the correct color. Wrapping yarn: If a color is not needed for more than 2 rows, wrap
it around the other color to secure it. If it is not needed for more
than 8 rows, cut it off and rejoin it later.
Self-fringing scarf
This comfortable scarf is made in simple half double crochet. Beginners
will love how quickly this works up, and the color changes in each row
add interest for more experienced crocheters.
NOTE Change yarn at the end of each row,
leave a 6in (15cm) long tail when joining and
PROJECTS cutting yarn to make the fringe.
For more half double crochet patterns
>> go to pages 197 and 206 Pattern
With yarn A, work 182 ch, turn.
ROW 1 1 hdc into third ch from hook, *1 hdc
Essential information into next ch, rep from * to end, fasten off A.
(180sts)
ROW 2 With yarn B, 2 ch, *1 hdc into each st,
SIZE 51⁄2 x 71in (14 x 180cm) rep from * to end, 2 ch, fasten off B, leaving
a long tail for fringe.
YARN You can use any aran weight 100% wool
Continue to work a further 10 rows as row 2,
or wool/alpaca blend to achieve a similar effect
changing colors at the end of each row,
alternating A and B.
ROW 13 With A, 2 ch, *1 hdc into each st, rep
Ax1 B x1 from * to end, turn (do not cut yarn).

ROW 14 1 ch, 1 ss into top of each hdc to end,
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4.5mm) hook fasten off A.
NOTIONS Yarn needle

Making the fringing This scarf pattern cleverly uses tassels that are
GAUGE 11 sts x 10 rows per 4in (10cm) Knot long tails in pairs at both ends of scarf; an integral part of the whole piece. They are made by
add extra fringing if required (see p.74). Trim leaving a long yarn tail each time you change color
to desired length. at the end of a row, and knotting them together in pairs.
>> This scarf is made with Rowan Creative Focus

Worsted, 220yds/200m/100g, in A: Chocolate
(03249) and B: Deep rose (02755).
TOP
Use
cont t i tch pattern. TIP
s
rastin th e
g colors to accentuate
Double crochet (Abbreviation = dc )

Double crochet produces a more open and softer crochet fabric than the a tall stitch, the fabric grows quickly as you proceed, which makes it the most
denser single and half double crochet stitches. Because double crochet is popular of all crochet stitches.
Make foundation 3
chain of any length
4
to practice doubles
Working in rows: As you work double crochet in

rows, you will see that it looks identical on the front
and the back.
1 Make as many chains as required (see p. 24).
To begin the first stitch, wrap the yarn around
the hook (yo).
2 Insert the hook through the fourth chain from
the hook, yo again (as shown by the large
arrow), and draw a loop back through the chain.
1
2
3
3 There are now 3 loops

on the hook. 4 Yo and draw a loop through
the first 2 loops on the hook. 5 There are now 2 loops left on the hook. Yo and
draw a loop through the remaining 2 loops.
Completed
double crochet
3 skipped
chains at
beginning
of row
6 This completes the first double. In double crochet

the 3 skipped chains at the beginning of the chain
count as the first stitch of the foundation row.
7 Work one double crochet into each chain in the
same way. Remember to start each stitch with
a yo before inserting the hook through the chain.
Basic stitches 43
1 3 chains
2 count as first
3 stitch of row
8 After the last stitch of the row has been completed, turn the work
to position the yarn at the right edge of the piece of crochet ready
to begin the second row.
9 To begin the second row of double crochet, make 3 chain stitches.
This brings the work up to the height of these tall stitches.
Insert hook under

both strands of top
of second stitch
Top of
first stitch
10 Yo, then, skipping the top of the first

double in the row below, work the first
double into the top of the second stitch.
11 Work a double into each stitch, working
the last stitch into the top of the 3 chains.
Work the following rows in the same way.
Counting crochet stitches

Do NOT count 1-ch
turning chain as a stitch 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Count 3-ch
turning
chain as
first stitch
Counting single crochet stitches: With the front of the last row Counting doubles: With the front of the last row facing, count the
facing, count the top of each stitch. If you are losing stitches as your turning chain as the first stitch, then count the top of each double. If you
crochet grows, then you are probably failing to work into the last stitch are losing stitches as your crochet grows, you are probably failing to work
in the row below; if you are gaining stitches, you may have worked into the top of the turning chain; if you are gaining stitches, you may be
twice into the same stitch. working into the first double of the row, instead of skipping it.
Textured pillow
Using a stylish yarn in a modern colorway, this simple but effective double
stitch pillow adds a touch of style to any room and can easily be completed
by a beginner with minimal sewing skills.
Pattern to 16in (40cm) square. Then sew it on to
Work 40 ch. the front of the pillow form with a sewing
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 dc into fourth ch from hook, needle and the same yarn, using running or
For more double crochet patterns 1 dc in each st to end, turn. (36 dc) whipstitch. Finally, insert the pillow form.
>> go to pages 60 and 234 ROW 2 Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc to end, turn.
Repeat row 3 until work measures
16in (40cm).
Essential information Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. >> This pillow is made with Erika Knight Vintage Wool,
Block the crocheted square carefully 95yds/90m/50g, in Bambi (34).
SIZE 16in (40cm) square
YARN Any “homespun,” aran-weight, wool-rich

yarn will work. You will need about 95 yds (90m)
x1
CROCHET HOOK H/8 US (5mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle

16in (40cm) square pillow form and cover
Sewing needle and matching thread
GAUGE 9 dc per 4in (10cm)
With the same yarn, sew the square on to the front

of the pillow using running stitch or whipstitch. Keep
the stitches as close to the edge of the square as
possible, so that they are invisible.
The striking texture of this pillow is created by the
height of the double stitches. Refer to pages 42–43
for more information on double crochet.
Pretty headbands
These simple yet attractive bands are perfect for keeping your ears warm.
The child’s size is given first, followed by two adult sizes to fit all.
Pattern
Ch 11(12:14).
PROJECTS
For more double crochet patterns Band
>> go to pages 44 and 206 ROW 1 1 dc in fourth ch from hook and into
each ch to end. Turn. (8(9:11)sts)
ROW 2 Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn.
Essential information Rep last row until work measures
(18(191⁄2:211⁄4)in)/46(50:54)cm long or until
desired length—enough to fit comfortably
SIZE Child size with bow: 18 x 2in (46 x 5cm) around your head.
Adult (small:medium) without bow: Fasten off yarn.
191⁄2(211⁄4) x 2(21⁄4)in/50(54) x 5(5.5)cm Sew strip together at short ends to form
YARN Any DK weight yarn will work here. Use a

warm, comfortable yarn such as wool or alpaca.
a ring.
1 Wrap the short band around the seam of the
headband to hide the seam, then sew or crochet
Tie the two short ends together.
You will need approx 100yds (90m)
Continuing in same yarn, work 11 ch.
ROW 1 1 dc in fourth ch from hook and into
each ch to end. Turn. (8sts)
A x1 Bx1 ROW 2 Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn.
Rep last row 5 times more. (7 rows)
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook Fasten off yarn.
Wrap short strip around band at the seam
NOTIONS Yarn needle
to hide the seam. Sew strip together at short
GAUGE 17 dc per 4in (10cm) ends to form a ring around the band.
Bow
Continuing in same yarn, work 24(28) ch.
ROW 1 1 dc in fourth ch from hook and into
each ch to end. Turn. (21(25)sts)
ROW 2 Ch 3, 1 dc in each dc to end of row. Turn. 2 Weave in loose ends and make sure that the
seam is positioned at the back of the band
so that it does not show.
Rep last row 3(5) further times. (5(7) rows)
Finishing
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. >> The woman’s band is made with Classic Elite Yarns
Slip bow under the tie and secure with Inca Alpaca, 109yds/100m/50g, in A: Fern (1141); the
a few holding stitches. child’s headband is made with B: Sweet pea (1164).
A pretty bow transforms this simple headband into
a child’s hair accessory. The bow measures approx
5(6) x 2(23⁄4)in/12(15) x 5(7)cm.
Treble crochet (Abbreviation = tr )

Worked in a very similar way to double crochet, treble crochet stitches Trebles are often used in lace crochet (see pp. 113–115) and in crochet
are approximately one chain length taller because the stitch is begun medallions (see pp. 102–105), and in other fine crochet patterns that require
by wrapping the yarn around the hook twice instead of only once (see p. 69). an open-textured result.
1 2 3 4
1
2
3
4
5
Treble stitch: Producing a double-sided fabric, either side

can be used as the right side. The stitch worked in rows
grows quickly because the stitches are taller but not that
1 Make a foundation chain, then wrap the
yarn twice around the hook (yo) and insert
the hook through the fifth chain from the hook.
2 Yo and draw a loop through the chain. There
are now 4 loops on the hook. Yo and draw a
loop through the first 2 loops on the hook.
much slower to work.
Completed
treble crochet 4 skipped chains at
beginning count as
first stitch of row
3 There are now 3 loops remaining. Yo

and draw a loop through the first 2
loops on the hook.
4 There are 2 loops remaining. Yo and
draw a loop through these 2 loops. 5 This completes the first treble. As for all tall crochet stitches,
the skipped chain stitches at the beginning of the foundation
chain count as the first stitch of the foundation row.
4
Turning chain counts 3 Top
as first stitch of row 2
of first
1
stitch
6 Work one treble into each chain in the same

way. Then turn the crochet and begin the
second row with a 4-chain turning chain.
7 Skip the top of the first treble in the row below
and work the first treble into the top of the
second stitch.
8 Work a treble into each of the remaining trebles
in the row below. Work the last stitch of the row
into the top of the 4 chains. Work following rows as
for the second row.
Basic stitches 49
Double treble crochet (Abbreviation = dtr )

Stitches taller than trebles are all worked in the same way as trebles, double trebles easily, you will also be able to work triple and quadruple
except that the yarn is wrapped around the hook more times before the trebles without much effort. The double treble crochet is a useful addition
stitch is begun and they require taller turning chains. Once you can work to your crochet repertoire.
4
5
6 5 skipped chains count as
first stitch of row
Double treble stitch: Worked in rows, double

treble crochet looks the same on both sides of the
fabric. Notice how airy the crochet texture becomes
1 Wrap the yarn 3 times around the hook
and insert the hook through the sixth stitch
from the hook.
2 Work the loops off the hook two at a time as for
trebles. Remember to wrap the yarn three times
around the hook before starting each stitch. Start
as the basic stitches get taller. following rows with 5 chains.
Triple treble crochet (Abbreviation = trtr )

This stitch works in the same way as double treble, except that the yarn is wound from the hook. The loops are then worked off two at a time, and following
around the hook 4 times, and the hook is then inserted into the seventh stitch rows start with 6 chains.
Stitch heights
Each of the next stitches gets
taller progressively and is worked
by wrapping the yarn around the
hook once more than the
previous stitch, before inserting
the hook. See page 68 for a
diagram with basic stitch symbols.
Quadruple treble
Triple treble
1 2
Triple treble stitch: This stitch is Once you know how to work the You work the loops off the hook Double treble
noticeably taller than double treble double treble stitch, you can begin in the same way as the treble and Treble
and also looks the same on both sides. to see how each following stitch is double treble, in pairs, until there is Double
worked. So, as a double treble wraps only the working loop left. Now that
Half double
the yarn around the hook twice, so a you know the pattern, you can create
Single
triple treble wraps the yarn around a stitch as tall as you like.
3 times. Therefore, a quadruple treble
means you wrap the yarn around
4 times, and so on.
Shaping crochet
To move from making simple squares and rectangles, a crocheter needs to make a variety of shaped pieces. The most commonly used simple shaping
to know how to increase and decrease the number of stitches in the row techniques are illustrated here.
Single crochet increases

Paired increases: Increases on garment pieces are most frequently worked as “paired
increases”—an increase of one stitch at the beginning of the row and one at the end.
Completed
2 sc worked first sc in
Completed into same last stitch
first sc stitch
3 At the end of the row, work 1 sc into the last sc of the row
in the usual way. Insert the hook again into the last sc of the
row and work a second sc into it.
2 sc worked
into same
stitch
1 To increase one stitch at the beginning of a row

of single crochet, work 1 sc into the first sc in
the usual way. Next, insert the hook again into the
2 This completes the increase.
Continue across the row, working
1 sc into each sc in the usual way.
4 This increases one stitch
at the end of the row.
first sc and work a second sc in the same stitch.
Double crochet increases

End of row: Increases on garment pieces made using double crochet are worked using the same techniques as for single
crochet. Again, these increases are most frequently worked as “paired increases”—one stitch is increased at each end of the row.
First dc worked into

first dc in row below Completed first dc 2 dc worked into
instead of skipping it worked into top same chain
of turning chain
1 To increase one stitch at the beginning of a row of

double crochet, first work the turning chain, then work
1 dc into the first dc in the row below. Because the first
2 Continue across the row, working 1 dc into
each dc in the usual way. At the end of the
row, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain
3 This completes the one stitch increase at the
end of the row, as shown.
double in the row below is usually missed, this creates an in the row below in the usual way. Then work a
increase at the beginning of the row. second dc into the same turning chain.
Basic stitches 51
Step increase at beginning of row
Completed
4 3-sc increase
3
2
1 1-ch turning
1 3 2
chain
1 Increases are also frequently worked in crochet so that they form little steps
at the edge. As an example, to add a 3-stitch step increase at the beginning
of a row of single crochet, begin by making 4 chains as shown here. (Always
2 Work the first sc into the second chain
from the hook. Then work 1 sc into
each of the remaining 2 chains. This
3 Continue the row in the usual
way, working 1 sc into each
sc in the row below. Any number
make one chain more than the number of extra single crochets required.) creates a 3-sc increase at the beginning of stitches can be added in this
of the row. way and the same technique can
be used for taller stitches.
Step increase at end of row

Separate length of
yarn (shown here in
a contrasting color
for clarity) Extend loop so
it won’t unravel
1 Before starting the row with the step increase at the end, remove the hook
from the loop at the beginning of the row. Then, using a short length of
matching yarn, place a slipknot on a spare hook and draw this loop through
2 There is now one loop on the hook—this forms the first extra chain at the
end of the row. Continue making chains until you have made as many as
the required number of extra stitches.
the last stitch in the row.
3 2 1 Completed
3-sc increase
3 2 1
3 For a 3-stitch step increase, make a total of

3 chains. Then fasten off. 4 Return to the beginning of the row, slip the
loop back onto the hook and tighten it, then
work to the end of the row in the usual way until
5 Work 1 sc into each of the 3 added chains.
This creates a 3-sc increase. Any number of
stitches can be added in this way and the same
you reach the added chains. technique can be used for taller stitches.
Single crochet decreases (Abbreviation = sc2tog )

Decreases on garment pieces, like increases, are most frequently worked as “paired
decreases”—a decrease of one stitch at the beginning of the row and another at the end.
First incomplete sc Second incomplete sc
1 To decrease one stitch at the beginning of a row of single crochet, work up to the last
yo of the first sc in the usual way, but do not complete the stitch—there are now 2 loops
on the hook. Insert the hook through the next stitch as shown and draw a loop through.
2 There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn around the
hook and draw a loop through all 3 loops at once, as shown.
First
Completed incomplete sc
decrease
3 This completes the decrease—where there

were 2 stitches, there is now only one. 4 Continue across the row, working 1 sc into each sc in the usual
way up to the last 2 stitches of the row. At the end of the row,
insert the hook through the top of the second to last stitch and
5 Insert the hook through the
last stitch in the row below
as shown by the large arrow and
draw a loop through—there are now 2 loops on the hook. draw a loop through.
Second
incomplete sc Completed
decrease
6 There are now 3 loops on the hook. Wrap the

yarn around the hook and draw a loop through
all 3 loops at once, as shown.
7 This completes the decrease at the end of the row. (The same
principle can be used for a “double decrease,” where 2 stitches
are decreased at once. For this, work 3 incomplete sc and join them
together at the top with the last yo—this is called sc3tog.)
Basic stitches 53
Double crochet decreases (Abbreviation = dc2tog )

2 incomplete dc Completed decrease
3-ch turning
chain counts
as first stitch
1 To decrease one stitch at the beginning of a row of double crochet, first work the turning
chain. Skip the first dc and work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc but only up to the last yo of
each stitch. Draw a loop through all 3 loops at once, as shown.
2 This completes the decrease—where there were
2 stitches, there is now only one.
First 2 incomplete dc Completed

incomplete dc
decrease
Top of
turning chain
3 Continue across the row in the usual way up to

the last dc in the row below. Now work a dc into
the last dc but only up to the last yo. Wrap the yarn
4 Work the dc in the top of the chain up to the last
yo of the stitch. There are now 3 loops on the
hook. Wrap the yarn around the hook and draw a
5 This completes the decrease at the end of the
row. (The same principle can be used for a “double
decrease,” where 2 stitches are decreased at once.
around the hook and insert the hook into the top of loop through all 3 loops at once, as shown. For this, work 3 incomplete dc and join them together
the turning chain in the row below, as shown. at the top with the last yo—this is called dc3tog.)
Step decreases
At beginning of row: Decreases,
like increases, can also be worked
so that they form little steps at the
Slip stitch to Turn before end
correct position edge. As an example, to decrease
3 stitches at the beginning of a row
of single crochet, work 1 chain and
then 1 slip stitch into each of the first
4 sc. Next, work 1 chain, then work
the first sc in the same place that the
last slip stitch was worked. Continue
along the row in the usual way.
At end of row: For a 3-stitch step decrease at the end of the
row, simply work up to the last 3 stitches at the end of the row and
turn, leaving the last 3 stitches unworked. This technique can be
used for all crochet stitches.
Party bunting
Making triangles is a great way to practice single crochet increases. Begin with
a small number of stitches, then increase at each end until you have the desired
triangle shape. Bunting is a super project for utilizing the resulting shapes.
Triangles of one yarn A triangle, then work 10 ch
Make 6 triangles in yarn A and 5 triangles and work in sc along a yarn B triangle; now
PROJECTS each of B and C. Work 2 ch. work 10 ch and then work in sc along a yarn C
For more single crochet patterns ROW 1 1 sc into second ch from hook. triangle. Continue in this way, joining the
>> go to pages 170 and 210 ROW 2 Ch 1, 3 sc into next sc. (3sts) triangles in this color pattern, and finish
ROW 3 Ch 1, sc in each sc to end. with a red triangle.
ROW 4 Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc to last sc, Work a ch of 14in (36cm) long, turn.
Essential information 2 sc in last sc. (5sts) Skip 10 ch, sc into next ch, then into each
Rep last 2 rows until you have 25 sts. ch to first triangle.
Work straight on these 25 sts for 6 rows, do Work along the triangles and chains in sc
SIZE Approx 51⁄2 x 51⁄2in (14 x 14cm) at the not turn, but work 2 further stitches into the to final 6 ch, work 5 ch, skip next 5 ch, then
widest and longest points. Using 16 evenly last sc, then work evenly in sc down the edge work 1 sc into last ch.
spaced triangles, the bunting measures approx of the point, work 3 sc into the point of the Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
138in (3.5m) long triangle, work up other side of the point
evenly in sc, join to the top row of sc with
YARN Any DK weight yarn will create the same >> This bunting is made with Cascade Yarns Ultra
a ss. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
effect, but you can use different weights to Pima DK, 220yds/201m/100g, in A: Wine (3713),
create different-sized triangles B: Jade (3735), C: Gold (3747), and D: White (3728).
Finishing
With yarn D, work a chain of 133⁄4in (35cm)
long, then work evenly in sc along the top
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1
CROCHET HOOK F/5 US (4mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle
1 Crochet a length of chain stitches, 133⁄4in (35cm)

long. Starting at one corner of a triangle, insert
the hook through the first stitch to work the first sc.
2 Work a row of single crochet stitches along the
top of the first triangle. Work 10 more chains
before attaching the next triangle with sc stitches.
Using a neutral yarn, such as white, for the single
crochet chain helps to emphasize the colorful triangles
and makes for a neat and attractive finish.
Flat circles
Making a simple circle is a good example for how other flat medallion shapes are started and
then worked around and around from the center. The circle is also used in conjunction with the
crochet tube to make containers (see p. 126) or the parts of toys, so it is worthwhile practicing.
Yarn tail
1 Follow these steps when working the simple circle for the
first time. The circle is worked from the center outward.
Start with 4 chains. Then work a slip stitch into the first chain
2 This forms the foundation ring, which is the
base for the first round of stitches.
as shown by the large arrow.
3 For a single crochet

circle, start the first
round with 1 chain. Then Move marker to last stitch
at end of every round
lay the yarn end around
the top of the chain and
start working the single
Work stitches crochet stitches of the
over yarn tail first round through the
center of the ring and
around the yarn tail.
4 When all 8 single

crochet stitches
of the first round are
complete, mark the
last stitch of the round
with a stitch marker as
shown. Then pull the
yarn tail to close the
center hole and clip it
Safety pin off close to the crochet.
Clip off
yarn tail
stitch marker
5 Work 2 sc into each sc in the second round as explained in the
pattern, working the last 2 sc into the top of the marked stitch
in the last round. Then count your stitches to make sure there are
16 in total. Continue the pattern until the circle is the required size.
Basic stitches 57
Tips for motifs

The principle for starting any motif shape and working it in rounds is the same as of the first round into a tiny foundation ring (see previous page), try the simple
for the simple circle, and many simple crochet flowers are also worked using adjustable ring below. Two other useful tips are the techniques for starting
these techniques (see pp. 106–107). If you find it awkward to fit all the stitches new colors and for joining motifs together (see below).
Making a simple adjustable ring
Pull to
close ring
1 Making the simple adjustable ring is a quick way to

start working a flat shape in the round, and it allows
you to make the center hole as tight as desired, or as
2 Leave the circle of yarn
open. Then, to start a round
of single crochet stitches, make
3 Work the first round of
single crochet stitches,
working them into the ring and
4 When all the required
stitches are worked into
the ring, pull the yarn tail to
open as desired. Start as if you are making a slipknot 1 chain. over the yarn tail as shown by close the ring. Then continue
(see p. 23), by forming a circle of yarn and drawing the the large arrow. as explained in the pattern
yarn through the center of it. instructions.
Joining on a new color

When starting a new color at the beginning of a motif round, you can either
change to the new color with the last yo of the previous round or fasten off
the old color and join on a new color with a slip stitch.
Old color
New color
Work stitches
over yarn tails
Slipknot
1 Joining on the new color with a slip stitch makes a firm attachment. Make
a slipknot with the new color and remove it from the hook. Then insert the
hook at the specified position and draw the slipknot through.
2 Start the new round with the specified number of chains, drawing the first
chain through the slipknot. Work the stitches of the round over both yarn
tails (the new color and the old color) so that there aren’t so many ends to
darn in later.
Coaster set
Cotton is lightweight and a good insulator, which makes these coasters ideal
table protectors all year round. Work each coaster in rounds of simple doubles.
NOTIONS Yarn needle Fasten off A. (12 3-dc and 12-ch sp)

ROUND 4 Join B into any ch sp, work as for
PROJECTS round 3. Fasten off B. (12 3-dc and 12-ch sp)
For more double crochet patterns ROUND 5 Join E into any ch sp, 1 ch, * work
>> go to pages 148 and 236 NOTE This pattern uses two shades in any 1 sc into top of each dc, 1 sc in ch sp, repeat
combination of A, B, C, D for the main part, from * to end, join with a ss into top of
with the trim crocheted in E. first ch. Fasten off yarn. Repeat the pattern
Essential information using shades C, D, and E, plus A, C, and E

Pattern to make more coasters.
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in first chain
SIZE Approx 41⁄4in (11cm) diameter to form a ring. Finishing
ROUND 1 Ch 3, 1 dc, *1 ch, 2 dc, rep from * four Weave in all ends and press according to
YARN Any DK weight non-mercerized cotton would
times, (6 dc pairs made). Fasten off A. the ballband instructions to ensure the
be a good substitute for this project
ROUND 2 Join B into any ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, coaster lies flat.
2 dc in first ch sp, *1 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc in next
ch sp, rep from * 4 times join with a ss into top
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1 of 3 ch. Fasten off B. (6 dc pairs and 12-ch sp) >> These coasters are made with Rowan
ROUND 3 Join A into any ch sp, 3 ch, 2 dc into Handknit Cotton, 93yds/85m/50g, in
CROCHET HOOK F/5 US (3.75mm) hook same ch sp, *1 ch, 3 dc into next ch sp, rep A: Bee (364), B: Gooseberry (219), C: Blue
from * to end, join with a ss into top of 3 ch. John (365), D: Raspberry (356), and E: Ecru (251).
1 To join on a new color, insert the hook into a

ch sp, wrap the yarn round the hook and pull it
through to the right side of the coaster.
2 Then make a chain to secure the new yarn in
place. Work 2 further chains to complete the
first 3 ch, then continue with the pattern as usual.
3 For the edging, join the new color in the same
way as the other colors. Work 1 sc into each dc
and ch sp around. Join with a ss.
Essential information
SIZE Striped: 8in (20cm) diameter,

scalloped: 83⁄4in (22cm) diameter
YARN Any DK weight non-mercerized cotton

will suit this project
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle
GAUGE Rounds 1–3 measure 3in (8cm)
Both of these pot holders are made up of two layers

of crochet fabric sewn together for extra thickness.
Yarn is a great insulator, so these projects are both
eye-catching and practical. Use washable yarn so you
can put them in the washing machine every so often.
Pot holders 61
Pot holders
These pot holders will make stylish additions to any kitchen. The shell trim
on the scalloped pot holder adds a challenge to an otherwise easy project.
in each of last 4 dc, 1 ss in top of first 3 ch, ROUND 4 Join D into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc
fasten off A. (60sts) in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next
PROJECTS ROUND 6 Join B into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 3 dc,
For more patterns in the round in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next 1 dc in each of last 3 dc, ss in top of first 3 ch,
>> go to pages 176 and 194 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 5 dc, fasten off D. (50sts)
1 dc in each of last 5 dc, 1 ss in top of first 3 ROUND 5 Join A into top of any dc, 3 ch,
ch, fasten off B. (70sts) 1 dc in same place as join, *1 dc in each of
Striped pot holder (make 2) ROUND 7 Join A into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc next 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last
With yarn A, work 4 ch, join with a ss to in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next 4 dc, 1 dc in each of last 4 dc, 1 ss in top of
form a ring. 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 6 dc, first 3 ch, fasten off A. (60sts)
ROUND 1 RS Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc 1 dc in each of last dc, 1 ss in top of first 3 ch, ROUND 6 Join B into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc
into ring, 1 ss in third of first 3 ch, fasten fasten off A. (80sts) in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next
off A. (12sts) 5 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 5 dc,
ROUND 2 RS Join B into top of any dc, 3 ch, Finishing 1 dc in each of last 5 dc, ss in top of first 3 ch,
1 dc in same place as join, 2 dc in each dc to Weave in all ends and, with wrong sides fasten off B. (70sts)
end of round, 1 ss in top of first 3 ch, fasten facing, rejoin B into the top of any double ROUND 7 Join D into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc
off B. (24sts) (working through both pieces), 1 sc in each in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next
Continue working in rounds as follows, always dc to end of round. Do not fasten off. Make 6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 6 dc,
with right side facing: hanging loop as follows: ss in last st, 12 ch, 1 dc in each of last dc, ss in top of first 3 ch,
ROUND 3 Join A into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc skip 6 sc, ss in next sc. Fasten off B. Weave fasten off D. (80sts)
in same place as join, *1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in in loose ends.
each of next 2 dc, rep from * to last 2 dc, 1 dc Finishing
in next dc, 2 dc in last dc, 1 ss in 3rd of first Scalloped pot holder (make 2) Weave in all ends and, with wrong sides
3 ch, fasten off A. (40sts) With yarn C, work 4 ch, join with a ss to facing, rejoin C into top of any double
ROUND 4 Join B into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc form a ring. (working through both pieces), 1 sc in
in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next 3 ROUND 1 RS Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 each dc to end of round. (80 sc)
dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 3 dc, 1 dc dc into ring, 1 ss in 3rd of first 3 ch, fasten Do not turn work, *skip next sc, 5 dc in
in each of last 3 dc, 1 ss in top of first 3 ch, off C. (12sts) next sc, skip 1 sc, 1 ss in next sc, rep
fasten off B. (50sts) ROUND 2 RS Join A into top of any dc, 3 ch, from * to end, finishing with a ss. Make
ROUND 5 Join A into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc 1 dc in same place as join, 2 dc in each dc to hanging loop as follows: 12 ch, skip next
in same place as join, *1 dc in each of next 4 end of round, 1 ss in top of first 3 ch, fasten 5 dc, ss into next st.
dc, 2 dc in next dc, rep from * to last 4 dc, 1 dc off A. (24sts) Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
Continue working in rounds as follows,
always with right side facing:
ROUND 3 Join B into top of any dc, 3 ch, 1 dc
<< The striped pot holder is made with Debbie Bliss

in same place as join, *1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in
Cotton DK, 91yds/84m/50g, in A: Lilac (13067) and each of next 2 dc, rep from * to last 2 dc, 1 dc
B: Aqua (13061). The scalloped pot holder also uses in next dc, 2 dc in last dc, 1 ss in 3rd of first
C: Peach (13065) and D: Avocado (13020). 3 ch, fasten off B. (40sts)
for Party bunting
go to page 54
Circular pillow
The perfect project to practice working in the round, this pillow uses the simplest
of stitches, a single crochet, and uses basic increasing to work flat circles. The
circles are joined with a slip stitch crochet seam.
Pattern (make 2) If you want a larger pillow, you can continue
Work 2 ch and 6 sc into second ch from hook, increasing in this way until the desired size
PROJECTS join round with a ss to first st. is achieved.
For more spiral patterns ROUND 1 Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, Join round with a ss.
>> go to pages 170 and 174 do not join round, place marker. (12sts) Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
ROUND 2 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st; rep
from * to end. (18sts) Finishing
Essential information ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep Block pieces lightly. Arrange with wrong sides
from * to end. (24sts) together, attach yarn to both pieces along
ROUND 4 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep edge, inserting the hook into a whole stitch
SIZE Approx 14in (35cm) diameter from * to end. (30sts) of each circular piece. Work a slip stitch seam
ROUND 5 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep around edge, trapping pillow form in between
YARN You can use any aran weight yarn for this
from * to end. (36sts) when you have worked approximately halfway
project, or a different weight yarn to create a
ROUND 6 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; rep around the circumference.
larger or smaller pillow cover
from * to end. (42sts)
Continue in this way, working one extra st
between increases for each round until you >> This pillow is made with Berroco Weekend,
x4 have worked 23 rounds and have 144 sts. 102yds/93m/50g, in Vanilla (5902).
NOTIONS Stitch marker

Yarn needle
14in (35cm) round pillow form
NOTE This pillow is worked in spirals. Do not

join rounds, but place a marker at the first
stitch of the round, moving it each round to
mark the beginning of the round.
1 To finish the pillow, place the circles with wrong

sides together and attach the yarn to the front
piece with a ss.
2 Insert the hook through both loops of the next
stitch of front piece and through both loops
of the corresponding stitch on back. Yo and pull
through both stitches and loop on hook to make a ss.
3 When you are about halfway, stuff the pillow
form into the middle of the two rounds and
continue slip stitching through both sides, joining
the last stitch to the first with a slip stitch.
Following a crochet pattern

Followed step-by-step and slowly, crochet patterns are not as difficult to work from as they appear. The guides
here for a simple accessory and a garment give many tips for how to approach your first crochet patterns. This
section also includes other techniques needed for working from a crochet pattern—finishings such as edgings
and button loops, blocking and seams, and darning in yarn.
Simple accessory patterns

A beginner should choose an easy accessory pattern for a first crochet project. A striped pillow cover is given here
as an example. Follow the numbered tips of the guide to familiarize yourself with the parts of a simple pattern.
1 The skill level required for the crochet is 4 Always purchase the same total amount in
given at the beginning of most patterns. Striped pillow cover yards (meters) of a substitute yarn; NOT the
When starting out, work several easy same amount in weight.
patterns before progressing to the Skill level
intermediate level. Easy 5 If desired, select different colors to
Size of finished pillow suit your décor; the colors specified
2 Check the size of the finished item. If 16 x 16in (40.5 x 40.5cm) are just suggestions.
it is a simple square like this pillow, you Materials
can easily adjust the size by adding or 7⁄8oz/7 x 25g (120yds/110m) balls of 6 Alter the hook size if you cannot achieve
subtracting stitches and rows. branded Scottish Tweed 4-Ply in Thatch 00018 (A) 4 x the correct gauge with the specified size
7⁄8oz/25g (120yd/110m) balls of branded Scottish Tweed (see 8 left).
3 It is best to use the yarn specified. 4-Ply in Skye 00009 (B) Size E/4 US (3.5mm) crochet hook
But if you are unable to obtain this Pillow form to fit finished cover 7 Extra items needed for your project are usually
yarn, choose a substitute yarn. Gauge listed under Materials, Notions, or Extras.
222 sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) over single crochet using
8 Make a gauge swatch before starting size E/4 US (3.5mm) hook or size necessary to achieve
to crochet and change the hook size if 11 Work in the specified stitch pattern, for
correct gauge. To save time, take time to check gauge.
necessary (see opposite). the specified number of rows or inches (cm).
Front
Using size E/4 US (3.5mm) hook and A, ch 89.
9 Instructions for working a piece of Row 1 1 dc in second ch from hook, 1 dc 12 Colors for stripes are always changed at the
crocheted fabric always start with how in each of rem ch, turn. (88sts) end of the previous row before the color change
many chains to make for the foundation Row 2 1 ch (does NOT count as a st), so the first turning chain of the new stripe is in
chain and which yarn or hook size to 1 dc in each dc to end, turn. the correct color (see p. 39).
use. If there is only one hook size and Rep row 2 throughout to form dc fabric.
one yarn, these may be absent here. Always changing to new color with last yo of
last dc of previous row, work in stripes as follows: 26 rows 13 Fastening off completes the
10 Consult the abbreviations list with your more in A, 8 rows B, (8 rows A, 8 rows B) crochet piece.
pattern for the meanings of abbreviations twice, 28 rows A.
(see p. 83). Fasten off.
16 See page 72 for how to darn in
loose ends.
Back
14 The back of a pillow cover is Work as for Front, but use B for A, and A for B. 17 Make sure you look at the yarn label instructions
sometimes exactly the same as the Finishing before attempting to press any piece of crochet.
front, or it may have a fabric back. In Darn in loose ends. The label may say that the yarn cannot be pressed
this example, the stripes are reversed Block and press lightly on wrong side, following instructions or it can be pressed only with a cool iron.
on the back for a more versatile cover. on yarn label. (See p. 70 for blocking tips.)
With wrong sides facing, sew three sides of back
15 After all the crocheted pieces and front together. Turn right-side out, insert 18 See pages 70–71 for seaming options. Take time
are completed, follow the Finishing pillow form, and sew remaining seam. with seams on crochet, and when working your very
section of the pattern. first seams, get an experienced crocheter to help you.
Following a crochet pattern 67
Garment patterns
Garment instructions usually start with the Skill Level, followed by the Sizes, making a garment—or other fitted items such as hats, mittens, gloves, and
Materials, Gauge, and finally the instructions. Most important for successfully socks—is choosing the right size and making a gauge swatch.
Tips Choosing a garment size

Choose a skill level that suits your Sizing advice: Crochet garment sizes are usually listed Choose your size by the
body width of a favorite,
crochet experience. If in doubt or if as specific bust/chest sizes or in generic terms as Small,
sweater that fits well and
you haven’t crocheted for many years, Medium, Large. (Children’s sweater sizes are given in has the same shape and
stick to an Easy or Beginner’s level ages and chest sizes.) The best advice is not to stick crocheted fabric weight
until you are confident you can go strictly to choosing your preferred size by these criteria.
to the next level. Decide instead how you want the garment to fit you— If altering sweater
length, take care
White is a good color to use for your how close-fitting or loose-fitting it should be. If you are
that it does not
first crocheted sweater because the planning to crochet a sweater, find one in your wardrobe alter the pattern
stitches are so easy to see clearly. But that is comfortable and flattering and has a fabric
if you do choose white yarn, be sure weight and shape similar to the garment you are going
to wash your hands every time you to crochet. Smooth out the sweater and measure the Check that the sleeve
circumference suits your
start crocheting; and when you stop, width. Find the same, or closest, width to this on the
upper arm measurement
put away the yarn and sweater in a sweater diagram of your crochet pattern—this is
bag to keep it from becoming soiled. the size for you.
Avoid black or other very dark yarn Make a photocopy of your pattern and circle
The instructions will
for a first crocheted sweater, since the or highlight all the figures that apply to your size indicate the best place
stitches are very difficult to distinguish, throughout the pattern, starting with the number to alter sleeve length
even for an accomplished crocheter. of balls of yarn to purchase, followed by the number
Purchase yarn balls that have the of chains in the foundation chain for the sweater
same dye-lot number (see p. 15). back, the length to the armhole, and so on. The figure measurement, the number of rows, or the number
Have a set of hook sizes on hand if for the smallest size is given first and all the figures of stitches—this figure applies to all sizes. Before
you are starting to crochet sweaters. for the larger sizes follow in parentheses. Where there starting your crochet, always check your gauge
When checking gauge (see below), is only one figure given in the instructions—be it a (see below).
you will need other sizes in order to
alter your hook size, if necessary.
Always make the pieces in the order
given in the instructions, whether you
are crocheting a garment, accessory,
Measuring gauge
or toy. On a garment, the back is It is essential to check your gauge (stitch size) before beginning a crochet pattern if the final size of the
usually crocheted first, followed by piece matters. Not everyone crochets stitches with exactly the same tightness or looseness, so you may
the front (or fronts, if it is a cardigan or well need to use a different hook size to achieve the stitch size required by your pattern.
jacket), and finally the sleeves. Pockets
that are integrated into the fronts are
crocheted before the fronts and those
2 Count the number of
rows to 4in (10cm) in
the same way. If you have
applied as patches are worked last.
fewer stitches and rows
Beginners should take care when
than you should, try again
modifying patterns, since sizing/shaping
with a larger hook size; if
and stitch patterns are often worked
you have more, change to
out in detail by the pattern designer
a smaller hook size. Use
and may turn out very differently if
the hook size that best
altered. However, beginners should not
matches the correct
be afraid to try modifying a pattern to
gauge. (Matching the
suit their preferences, since it can
always be ripped out if it does not
work as planned.
1 Using the specified hook, crochet a swatch
about 5in (13cm) square. Mark 4in (10cm)
across the center with pins and count the
stitch width is much more
important than matching
the row height.)
number of stitches between the pins.
Basic stitches in symbols and abbreviations

Crochet row instructions can be written out with abbreviations or using symbols crochet instructions and a quick reference for how to work crochet fabrics with
for the stitches. There is a more detailed explanation for reading stitch pattern basic stitches. Please note that left-handed crocheters will need to work the
instructions on page 82, but directions for the basic stitches are given in this diagram backward. (There are basic instructions for left-handed crocheters on
section in both symbols and abbreviations. This provides an introduction to how to hold the hook and yarn on page 22.)
Stitch heights
Quadruple treble
Triple treble
Turning chains
required for
Double treble Quadruple treble each basic
crochet Work first stitch
stitch in eighth
Treble chain from hook
Double Triple treble

crochet Work first
stitch in seventh
Half double chain from hook
Single Double treble

crochet Work first
stitch in sixth chain
from hook Treble Double crochet Half double Single crochet
crochet Work Work first crochet Work Work first
first stitch in stitch in first stitch in stitch in
fifth chain fourth chain third chain second chain
from hook from hook from hook from hook
Stitch symbols: The diagram, above right, shows all the basic stitches in number of turning chains you need to work at the beginning of each row for each
symbols and illustrates approximately how tall the stitches are when standing of the basic stitches. The diagonal bars are useful, since they indicate how many
side by side. A single crochet is roughly one chain tall, a half double crochet times you need to wrap the yarn around the hook before working the stitch. Also
two chains tall, a double crochet three chains tall, and so on. (The picture, above provided here is a reference for which chain to work into when working the first
left, shows what each stitch actually looks like.) These heights determine the stitch into the foundation chain.
Single crochet instructions

Single symbol: Crochet symbol instructions, especially for the 3 Follow the diagram 4 Continue working rows
basic stitches, are very easy to understand. Roughly imitating from left to right as back and forth as many
per arrow times as desired
the size and shape of the stitch, the symbols are read from the
bottom of the diagram upward. To get used to very simple crochet Row 3
instructions, try working single crochet following the written
directions and the symbol diagram at the same time (see p. 83 for Row 2
abbreviations list), then try this with the other basic stitches as well.
Row 1
Single crochet in abbreviations

START HERE
Make any number of ch.
Row 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch to
1 Begin at the bottom 2 As shown by the
end, turn.
of the diagram with the arrow, follow the
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each sc to end, turn. foundation chain and make diagram from right
Rep row 2 to form sc fabric. any number of chains to left
Half double crochet instructions

Half double symbol: The symbol for half double is a vertical line
with a horizontal bar at the top, and it is about twice as tall as the
Row 3
single crochet symbol, just like the stitch is in reality. Read the written
instructions for this basic stitch (below) and look at the chart at the
same time. The direction of each arrow indicates whether to read
the chart from left to right or right to left. Row 2
Half double crochet in abbreviations

Make any number of ch. Row 1
Row 1 1 hdc in third ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of rem ch to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first st), skip first hdc in row below, *1 hdc in START HERE
next hdc; rep from * to end, then work 1 hdc in top of 2 ch at end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form hdc fabric.
Double crochet instructions

Double symbol: The double symbol has a short diagonal line
across its “waist.” The diagram shows clearly how the 3-ch Row 3
turning chain counts as the first stitch of each row.
Double crochet in abbreviations

Make any number of ch. Row 2
Row 1 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, 1 dc in each of rem ch to
end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first dc in row below, *1 dc
in next dc; rep from * to end, then work 1 dc in top of 3 ch at
end, turn. Row 1
Rep row 2 to form dc fabric.
START HERE
Treble crochet instructions

Treble symbol: Two short diagonal lines cross the “waist”
of the treble symbol, echoing the two diagonal yarn strands
Row 3
on the stitch itself.
Treble crochet in abbreviations

Make any number of ch.
Row 1 1 tr in fifth ch from hook, 1 tr in each of rem ch to
Row 2
end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 4 (counts as first tr), skip first tr in row below,
*1 tr in next tr; rep from * to end, then work 1 tr in top of
4 ch at end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form tr fabric.
Row 1
START HERE
Blocking and seams

Always sew the seams of a garment or accessory using a blunt-ended the crochet pattern. But before sewing any seams, block your crochet
needle and a matching yarn (a contrasting yarn is used here just to show pieces carefully. Press the finished seams very lightly with a cool iron
the seam techniques more clearly); and work them in the order given in on the wrong side after completion.
Wet blocking Steam blocking

Using water: If your yarn will allow Using steam: For a speedier
it, wet blocking is the best way to process you may prefer steam
even out crochet. Wet the pieces in blocking (if your yarn label allows
a sink full of lukewarm water. Then it). First, pin the crochet right-side
squeeze out the water and roll the down into the correct shape.
crochet in a towel to remove excess Then steam the crochet gently
dampness. Smooth the crochet into using a clean damp cloth, but
shape right-side down on layers of barely touching the cloth with
dry towels covered with a sheet, the iron. Never rest the weight of
pinning at intervals. Add as many an iron on your crochet or it will
pins as is necessary to refine the flatten the texture. Leave the
shape. Do not move the crochet steamed piece to dry completely
until it is completely dry. before unpinning it.
Backstitch seam
Backstitch produces durable seams
and is frequently recommended in
crochet patterns for garments and
accessories.
1 Align the crochet pieces, right sides together, and

secure the yarn with two or three whipstitches in the
same place. Then, inserting the needle near the edge, work
2 On the backward stitch, be sure to insert the needle
through the same place as the end of the last stitch.
At the end of the seam, secure the yarn in the same way
the seam, taking one stitch forward and one stitch back. as at the beginning of the seam.
Whipstitch seam (also called overcast seam)

Simple whipstitch Flat whipstitch seam:
Wrong side
of crochet seam: Align the For a flat seam along
Right side
crochet pieces with of crochet the tops of stitches,
right sides together and lay the pieces right-side
secure the yarn as for Pull seam up and edge-to-edge.
backstitch. Then insert yarn tight Work as for the simple
to make
the needle close to whipstitch seam,
seam
the edge and make stitches but inserting the needle
stitches through the disappear through the back loops
two layers as shown. of the stitches only.
Mattress stitch (also called edge-to-edge seam)

This method creates a neat flat seam. It can be used, as here, on double crochet
as well as on all other types of crochet fabrics.
Lay pieces
right-side up
Side edge
of crochet
Work 2 or 3 stitches
through corners to
secure yarn
1 Align the pieces of crochet right-side up and edge-to-edge. Insert the needle
through the corner of the top piece, leaving a long loose end. 2 Insert the needle through the corner of the other piece,
then through both pieces again in the same place at
the corner to secure firmly.
Clip off yarn tail close to

crochet once yarn is secure
3 Make the next stitch along
the center of the crocheted
stitch (a double or a turning chain)
at the edge on the top piece of
crochet. Make the next crocheted
stitch along the center of the
stitch or turning chain on the
opposite edge.
When a matching
yarn is used,
seam disappears
more readily
4 Make the next pair of stitches in the same way,

working a stitch along one stitch or turning chain
on the top piece, then, on the opposite piece.
5 Continue along the seam, taking a stitch in
each side alternately. Take shorter stitches
on each piece if the yarn used for the pieces is bulky.
6 After every few stitches, pull the yarn tight so
that the seam yarn disappears and is not visible
on the right side of the crochet.
Darning in yarn
Darning in along top row: Using a blunt-ended Darning in along first row: Using a blunt-ended Darning in along top: You can also weave
yarn needle, darn the yarn tail through the center of yarn needle, darn the yarn tail through the center of the yarn in and out of the top of the crochet. This
the base of 6–8 stitches in the last row. Clip off the the base of 6–8 stitches in the first row. Clip off the provides a slightly more secure finishing and is
remaining end close to the fabric. remaining end close to the fabric. good for slippery yarns.
Slip stitch seam

Start with a slipknot
on the hook
Seam yarn
1 Instead of using a yarn needle to join your seam,

you can use a crochet hook to work a quicker
seam. Although seams can be worked with single
2 Align the two layers of crochet with the right
sides together. Then with the slipknot on the
hook, insert the hook through the two layers at the
3 Continue in this way and fasten off at the
end. When working the seam along the tops
of stitches (as here), insert the hook through only
crochet, slip stitch seams are less bulky. Start by starting end of the seam, wrap the yarn around the back loops of the stitches. Along row-end
placing a slipknot on the hook. the hook, and draw a loop through the two layers edges, work through the layers one stitch in
and the loop on the hook. from the edge.
This beautiful child’s hooded
jacket, featured on pages 240–243,
contains a number of seams. There
are seams on the sleeves and also
down the sides of the hoodie.
Handmade yarn embellishments

Yarn embellishments for crochet are easy to make, but be sure to take your or the top of a hat. Instructions for making fringe and tassels are given here, but
time so that they look absolutely perfect. Fringe is often used to edge throws, you can also add pom-poms—handmade or ready-made—to hats, garments, and
blankets, rugs, and scarves; tassels are ideal for the corners of a pillow cover many different types of accessory.
Making fringe
Wrong side Right side
1 Cut two lengths of yarn, twice the length of the

finished fringe, plus at least 1in (2.5cm) extra for
the knots. Align the two strands and fold them in
2 Using the crochet hook, pull the ends of the
strands through the loop on the hook. Tighten
the loop to secure the fringe. Measure your fringe
3 Add fringe knots along the edge of the fabric,
spacing them evenly apart. For a plumper fringe,
use more than two strands at a time. If you have
half. With the wrong side of the fabric facing, insert after making this first fringe knot to be certain that trouble pulling the fringe through the fabric,
a crochet hook from front to back, 1⁄4in (5mm) from it is long enough, and adjust the length of the experiment using a smaller or larger hook size.
the edge. Draw the loop through. strands, if necessary. After completing the fringe, trim it slightly to
straighten the ends, if necessary.
Making a tassel
1 Cut a piece of cardboard 3in (8cm) wide and

twice as long as the desired length for the
finished tassel. Fold the cardboard in half widthwise
2 Insert the tip of a pair of scissors between the
two layers of cardboard at the lower end of
the tassel. Cut through the strands.
3 Wrap one of the long strands at the top several
times around the tassel, about 3⁄4in (2cm) from
the top. Thread this strand onto a blunt-ended
with the fold at the top. Wrap yarn around and needle and pass it through the center of the tassel
around the cardboard lengthwise to form a plump and out at the top next to the other strand. Use the
tassel. Using a blunt-ended needle, pass a length of long strands to attach the tassel to your crochet.
yarn under the yarn strands at the top and tie tightly.
Care of crochet
Because you have invested so much time and effort in your crochet, take care
when cleaning and storing it. Start by referring to the care instructions on the
labels supplied with the yarn.
Care of your project

Keep a thorough record of all projects, including the pattern, the gauge swatch, a zippers, or snaps should also be included. If you are giving a crochet project as a
small amount of the yarn(s), and, most importantly, a yarn label for each of the gift, it is important to attach care information so that the recipient can look after
yarns used. Care instructions for any special ready-made trimming, ribbons, the item properly.
Preparing for washing Drying

Remove any special buttons or trims that can be damaged by water or dry- Dry washed crochet flat on a fresh towel, turning it over occasionally to speed
cleaning. To retain the shape of openings, baste them closed using a fine cotton up the process and prevent damage by mildew.
yarn that can be easily pulled out when dry. Measure the piece in all directions Large items, such as throws, can be dried on the floor; first, cover the
and record these dimensions so you can mold it into the correct shape when floor with a large plastic sheet, then lay towels on top of this before positioning
it is still damp. the throw.
It is often a good idea to sew a care label to your crocheted items for It may be necessary to replace the towels every so often with dry ones
convenience. This works best for larger items such as blankets and garments. if the item is particularly large or thick, in order to help it dry more quickly.
Labels can be bought from craft stores, yarn stores, and online. Write the Mold damp crochet into its correct size and shape before leaving to dry,
care instructions on the label with a permanent marker before attaching it. and never leave in direct sunlight or near a heating source. Once completely
The label can then be attached securely with a sewing needle and some dry, you can block and steam the piece if necessary (see p. 70).
matching thread. Never hang up a crocheted item to dry; the weight will cause it to
become permanently misshapen, and no amount of blocking will restore
Washing it to its original shape and size.
Refer to your yarn label for washing instructions. Yarns labeled “superwash” or
“machine washable” can be washed in a washing machine on a gentle cycle and Storage and moth control
at a cool temperature. Many yarn labels, however, recommend hand-washing. Check regularly for telltale holes. If storing all summer, place an
Wash your animal fiber crochet with great care, avoiding friction (rubbing), antimoth product in the drawer or closet with your wool crochet and
agitation (swirling the water), and hot water, which can cause felting in wool renew it as directed.
yarns and damage other fibers. Before repairing a hole in a moth-infested item, place it in the freezer
Dissolve a mild detergent in a large sink full of lukewarm water. Submerge overnight to kill any eggs. Crochet too large for the freezer, such as throws
a single item and gently press up and down on it. Soak for a few minutes, then and afghans, can be placed all day in the sun to achieve the same result.
rinse to remove the soapy water. When a crocheted item is not being used, store it flat. If you hang it up,
Squeeze out the water very gently, pressing the item against the sink. Do the stitches will become stretched and any damage will be irreversible. If your
not wring. Supporting the damp item, move it onto a large towel. Roll in the towel crochet is to be stored for any length of time, wrap it in acid-free tissue paper,
to remove more moisture. placing the paper between the folds as well as around the outside.
TOP
TIP Taking good care of y
our
croch life.
et proj i t s
ect will prolong
Stitch techniques
The basic crochet stitches can be combined together in various ways to create endless textures and sculptured effects. Not all the
vast range of crochet stitch techniques can be included, but the most commonly used are explained here in detail. When attempting
the stitch patterns on pages 84–85, refer back to these step-by-step instructions to see more clearly how to achieve the textures.
Simple textures
The simplest and most subtle crochet textures are created by working into trying out any of these techniques, learn about the parts of the stitches
various parts of the stitches or between the stitches in the row below. Before so you can identify them easily.
Parts of stitches
Back loop Top of Front of Front loop Back loop Top of Front of 3-ch
of stitch stitch stitch of stitch of stitch stitch stitch turning
chain
1-ch
turning Space
Front loop chain between
of stitch stitches
Row 2
Row 2 Post of
stitch Row 1
Row 1
Foundation chain Back of stitch

Foundation chain Back of stitch
Single crochet stitches: Work two rows of single crochet (see pp. 32–33) Double crochet stitches: Work two rows of double crochet (see pp. 42–43)
and fasten off. Look closely at your sample and make sure you can identify all and fasten off. Again, make sure you can identify all the parts of the stitch
the parts of the stitch labeled above. If your crochet pattern tells you to work labeled above. As for single crochet and all other crochet stitches, if your
into the stitch below, always insert the hook under BOTH loops (the front loop crochet pattern tells you to work into the stitch below, always insert the hook
and the back loop) at the top of the stitch as explained on page 33 for single under both loops at the top of the stitch, unless it tells you to do otherwise.
crochet, unless it tells you to do otherwise.
Chain spaces and chain

Working into 2-chain space
loops: In many stitch patterns
a chain space
chain stitches are introduced
between basic stitches to create
holes or spaces in the fabric.
Spaces formed by short chains
are called chain spaces, and
Foundation chain those formed by long chains
Working into a chain loop 6-chain loop are chain loops. When a crochet
pattern instructs you to work into
a chain space (or loop), always
insert your hook from front to
back through the space and not
into the actual chain stitches.
Foundation chain
Stitch techniques 77
Working into the back loop Working into the front loop
of a single crochet of a single crochet
Ridge effect: Working into only the back loops of the stitches in every row Smooth effect: Working into only the front loop of each single crochet in the
of single crochet creates a deep ridged effect. The ridges are formed by the row below, on every row, creates a less pronounced texture than working into
unworked loops. only the back loop.
Working into the back loop Working into spaces

of a double crochet between stitches
Double ridge: The same techniques shown for working into the back or front Double space: Another way to achieve a subtly different texture with basic
of a single crochet can be used on all crochet stitches to create ridges. For this stitches is to work the stitches into the spaces between the stitches in the row
stitch, the fabric will look the same on both sides. below, instead of into the tops of the stitches.
Working into a chain space

Tweed stitch pattern
Because it is such a popular stitch and a perfect alternative
to basic single crochet, the pattern for it is given here. (See
p. 83 for abbreviations.) Start with an even number of chains.
Row 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc
in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch), 1 sc in first sc, 1 sc
in next 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last
sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch), 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1,
1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 1, skip next sc,
Simple texture: Tweed stitch illustrates the simplest of all textures created 1 sc in last sc, turn.
by working into a chain space. Here, single crochet stitches are worked in the Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
1-chain spaces between the stitches in the row below, instead of into the tops
of the stitches.
Sculptural textures
These easy raised and grouped crochet stitch techniques produce attractive sculptural textures. Although they can
be used to create fairly dense stitch patterns (see pp. 84–85), they are also found in lace stitches (see pp. 113–115).
Front post double crochet

Working around the post is used to make a fabric that imitates knitted
ribbing, but it can also be used on its own in rows to create a ridged effect.
2-ch
turning
chain
1 Start with a row of doubles. On following rows,

work 2 chains, yo and insert the hook from the
front around the post of the second double.
2 To complete the double, yo and draw a
loop through, then (yo and draw through
the first 2 loops on the hook) twice, as
3 Work a double around each of the following doubles in
the row below in the same way. At the end of the row,
work a double into the top of the turning chain. Repeat the
shown by the two large arrows. second row to form a ridged texture.
Back post double crochet
2-ch
turning
chain
1 Start by working a base row of double crochet.

To start the second row, work 2 chains, yo and
insert the hook from the back around the post of
2 To complete the double, yo and draw a
loop through, then (yo and draw through
the first 2 loops on the hook) twice, as
3 Work a double around each of the doubles in the row
below in the same way. Continue as for step 3 of Front
post double (above).
the second double. shown by the two large arrows.
Shells
4-dc shell: Shells are the 5-dc shell: Here 5 doubles
most frequently used of all have been worked into the
crochet stitch techniques. same chain to form a 5-dc
Usually made with doubles, shell. Any number of doubles
they are formed by working can be used to form a shell,
several stitches into the but the most commonly used
same stitch or space. Here crochet shells have 2, 3, 4, 5,
4 doubles have been worked or 6 stitches. Shells can also
4 dc in same chain into the same chain to form 5 dc in same chain be made with half doubles
a 4-dc shell. and taller basic stitches.
Bobbles
Joining effect: Bobbles are formed using the shell technique and the cluster
technique so that the stitches are joined together at the top and the bottom.
1 2 3 4 5 6
1 To work a 5-dc bobble, work 5 incomplete

doubles (as for a cluster) into the same stitch
(as for a shell). There are now 6 loops on the hook.
2 Wrap the yarn around the hook
and draw a loop through all 6 loops
on the hook.
3 This completes all of the doubles at the same time and
joins them at the top. Some bobbles are completed with
an extra chain, as shown by the large arrow. Bobbles are
usually made with 3, 4, or 5 doubles. Bobbles made with
half doubles are called puff stitches.
Clusters
Crocheted clusters look like upside-down shells. They are made by joining the tops
of several stitches (each worked into a different stitch below) into a single top.
1 2 3 4
1 To make a 3-dc cluster, work a double up to the

last yo that completes the double. Then work an
incomplete double into each of the next 2 stitches in
2 Wrap the yarn around the hook and draw
a loop through all 4 loops on the hook. 3 This completes all of the doubles at the same
time and joins them at the top. Clusters can be
made with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, or more doubles, and with
the same way. There are now 4 loops on the hook. half doubles or taller basic stitches as well.
Popcorns
1 Popcorns are started like shells. To make a

5-dc popcorn, begin by working 5 doubles
in the same stitch.
2 Remove the hook from the loop and insert it
from back to front through the top of the first
double of the group. Draw the working loop through
3 This pulls the tops of the shells together to form
a bobble-type shape. Unlike the top of a bobble,
the top of a popcorn protrudes forward because of
the top of the first double, as shown by the arrow. the method of construction. Popcorns are usually
made with 3, 4, or 5 doubles.
SIZE Small: 13⁄4in (4.5cm) diameter, Medium: 13⁄4in

(5cm) diameter, Large: 21⁄4in (5.5cm) diameter
YARN Any 4-ply yarn or crochet thread will work

here or use different weight yarns for various
sizes of flower
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1
CROCHET HOOK D/3 US (3mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle

Flower garland 81
Flower garland
Flower motifs are quick and easy projects for using all of the stitches you have
learned up until now. The use of all the different heights of the stitches together
creates curves that are perfect for petals.
Medium flower (make 9) ROUND 2 Ch 3, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next st, *1 tr
Work Ch 5, ss in first ch to form a ring. into next st, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next tr; rep
PROJECTS ROUND 1 Ch 1, work 12 sc into ring, join from * to end of round, join round with a ss
For more multi-stitch patterns round with a ss into top of 3 ch. into top of ch 3.
>> go to pages 186 and 300 ROUND 2 Ch 3, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next st, *1 tr ROUND 3 Ch 1, (1 hdc, 3 tr, 1 hdc) all into next
into next st, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next st; rep 2-ch sp, *1 sc in between next 2 tr, (1 hdc, 3 tr,
from * to end of round, join round with a ss 1 hdc) all into next 2-ch sp; rep from * to end
Pattern into top of ch 3. of round, join round with a ss into first ch.
NOTE Make three of each color in each sized ROUND 3 Ch 1, (1 hdc, 3 tr, 1 hdc) all into next Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
flower, therefore making nine of each in total. 2-ch sp, *1 sc in between next 2 tr, (1 hdc, 3 tr,
1 hdc) all into next 2-ch sp; rep from * to end Finishing
Big flower (make 9) of round, join round with a ss into first ch. Work a chain of desired length, threading
Work 5 ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. through the middle of the flowers to create
ROUND 1 Ch 1, work 16 sc into ring, join a garland. Alternatively, mount individual
round with a ss into first ch. Small flower (make 9) flowers onto a safety pin or pin back to
ROUND 2 Ch 4, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next st, Work Ch 4, ss in first ch to form a ring. create a corsage.
*1 tr into next st, (1 tr, 2 ch) into next st; ROUND 1 1 ch, work 10 sc into ring, join round
rep from * to end of round, join round with with a ss into top of 3 ch.
a ss into top of 4 ch.
ROUND 3 Ch 1, (1 hdc, 2 tr, 1 tr, 2 tr, 1 hdc)
all into next 2-ch sp, *1 sc in between next
2 tr, (1 hdc, 2 tr, 1 tr, 2 tr, 1 hdc) all into
next 2-ch sp; rep from * to end of round,
join round with a ss into first ch.
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
<< This garland is made with DMC Natura Just Cotton,

50g/155m/169yds, in A: Avessac (17), B: Jade (20),
1 Work around the central circle to create five
petals. Work a single crochet into the space
between the next 2 tr after each petal.
2 Crochet a series of stitches around each flower
for petals. You will need single crochet, half
double, and double stitch. Work the same number
and C: Eucalyptus (8). of stitches into each chain space.
Following simple stitch patterns

Working a project from a crochet pattern for the first time can seem difficult for a beginner, especially if an experienced crocheter is not
on hand as a guide. The best way to prepare for a crochet pattern is first to practice crocheting rectangles of various stitch patterns
using simple stitch techniques. This is a good introduction to following abbreviated written row instructions and symbol diagrams.
Understanding written instructions

As long as you know how to work all the basic stitches and can work them from times to test it out. (If you decide to make a blanket or pillow cover with the
the simple patterns on pages 68–69 and have reviewed pages 76–79 where stitch later, you can adjust the hook size before starting it to obtain the exact
special stitch techniques are explained, there is nothing stopping you from trying flexibility of fabric you desire for your project.)
to work the simple textures stitch patterns on pages 84–85 and page 83. Simply Work each row of the stitch pattern slowly and mark the right side of the
consult the list on pages 68–69 for the meanings of the various abbreviations fabric (if there is one) as soon as you start, by tying a contrasting colored yarn
and follow the written row instructions one step at a time. to it. Another good tip is to check off the rows as you complete them or put
Begin by making the required number of chains for the foundation chain, a sticky note under them so you don’t lose your place in the pattern. If you do
using your chosen yarn and one of the hook sizes recommended for this yarn get lost in all the stitches, you can pull out all the rows and start the pattern
weight on pages 14–15. Crochet a swatch that repeats the pattern only a few from the foundation-chain again.
Understanding stitch symbol diagrams

Crochet stitch patterns can also be given in symbols (see p. 83). These diagrams repeat the stitch repeat across a row (or a row repeat up the fabric), it is easy
are usually even easier to follow than directions with abbreviations because to work these out yourself from the diagram once you become proficient in
they create a visual reference of approximately how the finished stitch will look. reading diagrams. But to begin with, work from the written instructions and
Each basic stitch on the chart is represented by a symbol that resembles it use the diagram as a visual aid. Once you have completed the first few rows
in some way. The position of the base of each stitch symbol indicates which of the pattern, you can dispense with the written instructions all together and
stitch or chain space it is worked into in the row below. If the symbols are continue with the diagram as your sole guide. If the stitch is an easy one, you
joined at the base, this means that they are worked into the same stitch in will very quickly be able to work it without looking at any instructions at all.
the row below. This symbol diagram for the open shell stitch (see p. 113) is a good
The beginning of the foundation chain will be marked as your starting point introduction to working from a symbol diagram. Start at the bottom of
on the diagram. Read each row on the diagram either from right to left or left to the diagram and follow it row by row with the aid of the numbered tips.
right following the direction of the arrow. Although you can consult the written
instructions for how many chains to make for a foundation chain and how to
Sample stitch pattern

5 Continue following
the diagram and 4 Consult the Crochet instructions
repeat rows as written instructions Make a multiple of 6 ch, plus 2 extra.
indicated in written Open shell stitch if unsure about Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook,
instructions. whether a stitch
*skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next
is worked into a
Row 5 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
specific chain or
Row 4 into a chain space. Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as first dc and a 2-ch
sp), 1 sc in center dc of first shell, *ch 5,
Row 3
1 sc in center dc of next shell; rep from *,
Row 2 ending with ch 2, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
3 Follow the diagram 2 Following the
Row 1 diagram from right Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc
from left to right,
to left, repeat the in first dc, *5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5-ch
paying particular
attention to START HERE pattern repeat as loop; rep from * working last sc of last rep
beginning number of many times as
1 Consult the written instructions for how many in 3rd ch from last sc, turn.
chains and edge necessary to fill your
foundation chains to make (see right). foundation chain. Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
stitch at end of row.
Crochet abbreviations
These are the abbreviations most commonly used in crochet patterns. The found in crochet patterns follow. Any special abbreviations in
abbreviations for the basic stitches are listed first and the other abbreviations a crochet pattern will always be explained in the pattern.
Abbreviations for basic stitches

Note: The stitches are listed from shortest to tallest.
ch chain foll follow(s)(ing) sc3tog see crochet terminology

ss slip stitch g gram(s) on p. 311
sc single crochet hdc2tog see crochet terminology sp space(s)
hdc half double crochet on p. 311 st(s) stitch(es)
dc double crochet hdc3tog see crochet terminology TBL through back loop
tr treble p. 311 TFL through front loop
dtr double treble in inch(es) tog together
trtr triple treble inc increas(e)(ing) WS wrong side
qtr quadruple treble m meter(s) yd yard(s)
mm millimeter(s) yo yarn over
Other abbreviations oz ounce(s) * repeat instructions after asterisk
alt alternate patt(s) pattern(s) or between asterisks as many times
beg begin(ning) rem remain(s)(ing) as instructed.
cm centimeter(s) rep repeat(s)(ing) () repeat instructions inside parentheses
cont continu(e)(ing) RS right side as many times as instructed.
dc2tog see crochet terminology on p. 311 sc2tog see crochet terminology [] used for a repeat within a repeat.
dc3tog see crochet terminology on p. 311 on p. 311
Crochet stitch symbols

These are the symbols used in this book, but crochet symbols are not universal so always
consult the key with your crochet instructions for the symbols used in your pattern.
Basic stitches Special stitches and stitch combinations Shells, cluster, bobbles, popcorns
= ch = 3 sc in
= 3-ch, 4-ch, = hdc2tog same st
= ss 5-ch picots = 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-dc
= dtr = 2 hdc in shells (see p. 78)
= sc fpdc = front = hdc3tog same st
post double
= hdc = 3 hdc in
= dc2tog same st = 2-, 3-, 4-, 5-, 6-dc
= trtr bpdc = back clusters (see p. 79)
= dc post treble
= dc3tog = 3-, 4-, 5-dc

= sc2tog bobbles (see p. 79)
= 2 sc in = 3-, 4-, 5-dc

= tr = qtr = sc3tog same st popcorns (see p. 79)
Simple textures stitch patterns

Selected for how easy they are to work, these stitch patterns cover an array of solid textures like these to choose from. Quick to work and easy to memorize after
crochet textures, including those made using the techniques shown on pp. 82–83. the first few rows, the following stitches make pretty pillow covers, baby blankets,
Although crochet is often identified with lacy openwork fabrics, there are also lots of and throws. They all look good on both sides of the fabrics and two are reversible.
Crochet rib stitch

Crochet diagram Crochet instructions
Make a multiple of 2 ch.
4 Row 1 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, 1 dc in each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch 2 (counts as first st), skip first dc, *1 dc around post of next
3 dc from front, 1 dc around post of next dc from back; rep from * to end,
1 dc in top of turning ch at end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form patt.
2
START HERE
Simple crossed stitch

Make a multiple of 4 ch, plus 2 extra.
7
Row 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
6
Row 2 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first sc, 1 dc in each of next
5 3 sc, yo and insert hook from front to back in first sc (the skipped sc),
4 yo and draw a long loop through (extending the loop that so it reaches
3 back to position of work and does not squash 3-dc group just made),
2 (yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice (called long dc), *skip
1 next sc, 1 dc in each of next 3 sc, 1 long dc in last skipped sc; rep from *
to last sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
START HERE
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each dc to end (do NOT
work a sc in 3-ch turning chain), turn.
Rep rows 2 and 3 to form patt.
Close shells stitch

4 Row 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, *skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch,
3 skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
2 Row 2 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first sc, *skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in
next dc, 5 dc in next sc (between shells); rep from *, ending last rep with
1
3 dc in last sc (instead of 5 dc), turn.
START HERE Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *5 dc in next sc
(between shells), skip next 2 dc, 1 sc in next dc; rep from *, working last
sc in top of 3 ch at end, turn.
Cluster and shell stitch

Note: cluster (also called sc5tog) = over next 5 sts (which include
4 2 dc, 1 sc, 2 dc) work (yo and insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop
3 through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 5 times (6 loops now
2 on hook), yo and draw through all 6 loops on hook (see p. 79).
1 Make a multiple of 6 ch, plus 4 extra.
Row 1 (RS) 2 dc in fourth ch from hook, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch,
START HERE *skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch: rep from * to
last 3 ch, skip next 2 ch, 3 dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *2 ch, 1 cluster over
next 5 sts, 2 ch, 1 sc in next dc (center dc of 5-dc group); rep from *,
working last sc of last rep in top of 3 ch at end, turn.
Row 3 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first sc, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next
st (top of first cluster), *5 dc in next sc, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next st (top
of next cluster); rep from *, ending with 3 dc in last sc, turn.
Simple bobble stitch

Note: bobble = (yo and insert hook in specified st, yo and draw a loop
6
through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in same st
5 (5 loops now on hook), yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook (see p. 79).
4 Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, 1 dc in each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each of first 2 dc, *1
3
bobble in next dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; rep from * to last 2 dc, 1 bobble
2 in next dc, 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in top of 3-ch at end, turn.
Row 3 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first sc and work 1 dc in each st to
1
end, turn.
Row 4 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each of first 4 dc, *1 bobble
START HERE
in next dc, 1 sc in each of next 3 dc; rep from *, ending with 1 sc in top of
3 ch at end, turn.
Row 5 Rep row 3.
Rep rows 2–5 to form patt, ending with a patt row 5.
Shells and chains

3
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *skip next 2 ch, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1
dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in next ch, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
2 Row 2 Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a 1-ch sp), 1 dc in first sc, skip next dc,
1 1 sc in next dc (center dc of shell), *work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) all in
next sc (between shells), skip next dc, 1 sc in next dc (center dc of shell);
START HERE rep from *, ending with (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc,
ch 1, 1 dc) all in next sc, skip next dc, 1 sc in next dc (center dc of shell); rep
from *, working last sc of last rep in third of 4 ch made at beg of previous
row, turn.
Embellishments for crochet

There are many ways to add subtle or bold embellishments to your crochet. Although it
may seem unimportant, choosing the right buttons when they are required comes at the
top of the list, so always select buttons carefully and take your finished crochet along to
try them out before purchasing any. Other adornments that will dress up your crochet
include beads, ribbons, pom-poms, fringe, edgings, and embroidery.
Beaded crochet
Beads can be sewn onto your finished crochet if you are only adding crochet. The most common beaded crochet technique uses single
a few. But for an allover effect, work the beads into the fabric as you crochet as the background to the beads.
Working beaded single crochet

Beaded crochet is suitable for a range of simple spaced-out allover
geometric patterns. But beware of using too many beads on the
crochet or beads that are too big, since they can add so much extra Sewing thread
1 Beaded single crochet is
usually worked from a chart
that shows the positions of the
weight to the fabric that they stretch it out. beads on the fabric. The chart is
read as for a chart for colorwork
(see p. 91) and the key provided
with the chart indicates which
stitches are worked as plain
single crochet and which have
beads. Loop the end of the yarn
into a loop of sewing thread as
shown, then thread the beads
Sewing needle onto the needle and down onto
the yarn.
Yarn going
to ball
Slide bead
along yarn
Wrong side
2 Follow the chart for the bead pattern, sliding the beads along the
yarn until they are needed. The beads are always positioned on
wrong-side rows. When a bead position is reached, work the next single
3 Draw a loop through both loops on the
hook to complete the single crochet. 4 Complete the single crochet tightly so
that the bead sits snugly against the
fabric on the right side of the crochet.
crochet up to the last yo—there are now 2 loops on the hook. Slide
a bead up close to the crochet and wrap the yarn around the hook.
Embellishments for crochet 87
Embroidery on crochet
Because single crochet creates such a firm fabric, it is easy to work embroidery for the crochet, or choose a slightly thicker yarn, so that the stitches will show up
onto it. Many embroidery stitches are suitable for crochet and a few of the most clearly. Always work the stitches with the same type of blunt-ended yarn needle
popular are given here. Use the same yarn for the embroidery as the yarn used that is used for seams.
Blanket stitch Chain stitch

Edging: Blanket stitch Motif: Chain stitch is
creates an excellent crisp, perfect for curved motifs.
decorative finish. Secure Hold the yarn on the wrong
the yarn with 2 or 3 side of the fabric and draw
whipstitches worked at the loops through with the hook.
edge of the crochet. Then To fasten off, pull the yarn
make stitches that are end through the last loop
spaced evenly apart from and then back to the wrong
left to right, as shown here. side over the loop. Darn in
the ends on the wrong side.
Cross-stitch
1 Work each individual
cross-stitch on single
crochet over one single
2 Adding lines of
cross-stitches is an
effective way to create
crochet stitch. Complete an interesting plaid pattern
each cross-stitch before on a base of plain single
moving on to the next. crochet. This is the perfect
Keep the stitches fairly technique for dressing
loose so they don’t distort up a simple piece of
the crochet. single crochet.
Edgings on crochet
Several edging patterns are provided on pages 90–95 because they are an directly onto your crochet (see pp. 90–91), and others made separately and then
excellent simple adornment for your crochet. Some edgings can be worked sewn on, as shown below.
Adding edgings
Attach an edging: To sew an edging in place,
use a yarn that matches the base crochet and
a blunt-ended yarn needle. Secure the yarn at
the right-hand end of the seam with 2 or 3
whipstitches. Then work evenly spaced
whipstitches through both the base crochet
and the edging, as shown.
Finishing details
Finishings require slightly different crochet techniques. Some of the techniques most frequently used are shown here. Take your
time with all finishings and practice the methods on small swatches before adding them to your completed pieces.
Single crochet edging
Along top or bottom of a piece of crochet: Adding a simple single crochet Along row-ends of a piece of crochet: A single crochet edging is worked the
edging is a good way to neaten up the edges of a crochet project. To work a same way along the row-ends of a piece of crochet, but it is not as easy to achieve
single crochet edging along the top or bottom of a piece of crochet, join the yarn an even edging. To create a perfect result, experiment with how many stitches
to the first stitch with a slip stitch, work 1 ch, 1 sc in the same place as the slip to work per row-end. If the finished edging looks flared, try working fewer stitches
stitch, then work 1 sc in each stitch below all along the edge. per row-end; and if it looks puckered, try working more stitches per row-end.
Crocheting edging directly onto edge

Any of the edgings starting with a row of single
crochet on pages 90–95 can easily be worked directly Row of
onto the crochet. single
crochet
1 Using a contrasting color for the edging, start by

working the row of single crochet onto the base,
then turn and work the next row of the edging (the
second row of the simple shell edging on p. 92 is
being worked here).
2 At the end of the second row, turn the crochet

and work the remaining rows of the edging (the
third and final row of the simple shell edging is being
worked here).
Round buttons
Making matching crochet buttons is a great finishing detail. Experiment with different
yarn and hook sizes to make round buttons of the desired size. The buttons here are
made using a superfine cotton yarn and a size 5 steel or B/1 US (2mm) hook for a
button approximately 1⁄2in (1.5cm) in diameter.
1 Make each button as follows:

Ch 4 and join with a sl st to first
ch to form a ring.
Insert
polyfill
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1, 8 sc in ring
(working over yarn tail while working
sc into ring), join with a sl st to first sc.
2 Slip the loop back on the hook and tighten it. Then continue the
button as follows: Round 5 Ch 1, sc2tog over first 2 sc (same sc
as last ss and next sc), (2 sc over next 2 sc) 3 times, join with a ss to
(Do not turn at end of rounds, but first sc. (4 sc)
work with RS always facing.) Fasten off, leaving a long loose end at least 8in (20cm) long. Push more
Round 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in same sc as stuffing inside, if necessary. Then using a blunt-ended yarn needle and
last sl st, 2 sc in next sc, (1 sc in next the long yarn tail, sew the opening at the back of the button closed.
sc, 2 sc in next sc) 3 times, join with
a ss to first sc. (12 sc)
Round 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc to end,
join with a sl st to first sc.
Round 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in same sc as last
ss, (sc2tog over next 1 sc, 1 sc in next
Retain long
sc) 3 times, sc2tog over last 2 sc, join yarn tail for
with a sl st to first sc. (8 sc) sewing
on button
Extend loop Take the loop off the hook and extend
to prevent it to prevent the button from
button from
unraveling. Push the yarn tail from
unraveling
round 1 into the inside of the button
and stuff the button firmly. 3 Do not cut off the yarn tail, but keep
it for sewing on the button.
Button loops
Button loops are very easy to make along the edge of a pillow cover,
the front of a cardigan, or for closings on baby garments.
3-ch button loop Completed button loop
1 Work in single crochet to the position of the button loop. Make 2, 3,

or more chains, depending on the size of the button. 3 Continue along the edge, working single crochet and button loops
until the edging is complete. To make stronger loops, work a
second row of single crochet along the first row, working the same
2 Skip the same number of stitches on the edge and work the
next single crochet in the next stitch. Test the size of the first
completed button loop with the button and adjust the number of
number of single crochet stitches as chains into each loop.
chains, if necessary.
Simple edging patterns

Adding a decorative crochet edging to an otherwise mundane-looking piece blankets, necklines, and cuffs. When making an edging that will encircle a
of crochet can transform it, giving it a touch of elegance. All the simple crochet blanket, be sure to add extra for turning the corners; the edging can then
edgings that follow are worked widthwise, so you start with a length of chain be gathered at each corner to allow for the turning. Use a short test swatch
roughly equivalent to the length of edging you need. Suitable even for to calculate how much extra you will need at each corner. See page 83 for
beginners, these edgings are perfect for dressing up towels, throws, baby abbreviations and symbols.
Chain fringe
Crochet instructions Crochet diagram

Note: This fringe is worked onto a row of sc. The length of the fringe
can be altered by changing the number of chains in each fringe loop.
Total of 29 ch in
To start the edging, make 1 ch more than the required number of sc. each fringe loop
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, ch 29, 1 sc in same place as last sc,
*1 sc in next sc, ch 29, 1 sc in same place as last sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
2
START HERE
Step edging

Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, 1 dc in each of rem ch, turn. 2
Row 2 (RS) Ch 3, 3 dc in first dc, *skip next 3 dc, work (1 sc, ch 3,
3 dc) all in next dc; rep from * to last 3 dc, skip last 3 dc, 1 sc in top
of 3-ch at end.
Fasten off.
1
START HERE
Picot scallop edging

Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 5,
skip next 3 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, *work (4 sc, ch 3, 4 sc) all in next 2
1
5-ch loop; rep from * to end.
START HERE
Fasten off.
Double loop edging

To start edging, make a multiple of 5 ch, plus 2 extra.
Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in
next ch, *ch 5, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in each of next 3
ch; rep from * to last 4 ch, ch 5, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in 2
each of last 2 ch, turn. 1
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 8, 1 sc in center START HERE
sc of next group of 3-sc (at other side of 5-ch loop);
rep from * working last sc in last sc of row 1.
Fasten off.
Grand eyelet edging

Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in
each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc 2
1
in next sc, 1 tr in next sc, *ch 5, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in
START HERE
next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 tr in next
sc; rep from * to last 4 sc, ch 5, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc
in last sc.
Fasten off.
Pillar edging

Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *2 ch, skip next sc, 1 dc in next sc,
2
(ch 2, skip next sc, 1 tr in next sc) twice, ch 2, skip next sc, 1 dc in 1
next sc, ch 2, skip next sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. START HERE
Fasten off.
Simple shell edging

Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
Row 2 Ch 5, skip first 3 sc, 1 dc in next sc, *5 ch, skip next 5 sc, 1 dc in 3
next sc; rep from * to last 3 sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
2
Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc, *ch 3, 1 sc in next 5-ch
space, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc; rep from *, ending with ch 3, skip first 2 ch 1
START HERE
of last 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch.
Fasten off.
Twirl fringe
Crochet diagram
Total of 24 ch and
23 dc in each fringe
Crochet instructions 2
Note: The fringe will twirl naturally; do not press out the twirls.
To start edging, make a multiple of 2 ch.
1
Row 1 (WS) 1 tr in fourth ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 tr in
next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first tr, *ch 24, 1 sc in second ch from hook, START HERE
1 sc in each of rem 22 ch, 1 sc in next tr; rep from * to end.
Fasten off.
Triple picot edging

Row 2 (RS) Ch 5, work (1 sc, [ch 5, 1 sc] twice) all in first sc, *ch 4, 2
skip next 5 sc, (1 sc, [ch 5, 1 sc] 3 times) all in next sc; rep from * to end.
Fasten off. 1
START HERE
Cluster and shell edging

Row 1 (WS) 1 dc in fourth ch from hook, *skip next 3 ch, 6 dc in next
ch (to make a shell), skip next 3 ch, work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) all in next ch;
rep from * to last 8 ch, skip next 3 ch, 6 dc in next ch, skip next 3 ch, 2
2 dc in last ch, turn.
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, skip first dc, 1 sc in next dc, *ch 4, (yo, insert hook in 1
next dc, yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw through first 2 loops
on hook) 6 times (once into each of 6 dc of shell), yo and draw through START HERE
all 7 loops on hook to complete cluster, ch 6, 1 ss in top of cluster just
made, ch 4, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp (between 2 dc); rep from * to end,
working last sc of last rep in top of 3 ch at end.
Fasten off.
Bold scallop edging

Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, ch 2, skip next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, ch 7,
skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc, *ch 6, skip next 5 ch, 1 sc in next sc, 3
2
ch 7, skip next 3 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to last 3 sc, ch 2, skip 1
next 2 sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, 13 dc in 7-ch loop, *1 sc in next 6-ch sp, START HERE
13 dc in next 7-ch loop; rep from *, ending with 1 sc in last sc.
Fasten off.
Long loop edging

2
Row 2 (RS) Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, ch 9, 1 dc in sixth ch from hook, ch 4, *1 sc in each of next 1
3 sc, ch 9, 1 dc in sixth ch from hook, ch 4; rep from * to last sc, 1 sc in last sc. Fasten off. START
HERE
Diamond edging

Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 4, yo twice and insert hook in same place as
last sc, (yo and draw first 2 loops on hook) twice, yo twice, skip next 5 ch and insert hook
in next ch, (yo and draw first 2 loops on hook) twice, yo and draw through all 3 loops on 2
hook (called tr2tog), ch 4, 1 sc in same place as last tr; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 2 Ch 5, 1 tr in first tr2tog, ch 4, 1 sc in same place as last tr, *4 ch, tr2tog over last
tr worked into and next tr, ch 4, 1 sc in same place as last tr; rep from *, ch 4, yo twice and 1
insert hook in same place as last sc, (yo and draw first 2 loops on hook) twice, yo 3 times START
and insert hook in last sc in previous row, (yo and draw first 2 loops on hook) 3 times, HERE
yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook. Fasten off.
Double scallop edging

Row 2 Ch 6, skip first 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, *ch 5, skip next 4 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from 5
4
* to last 3 sc, 3 ch, skip next 2 sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
3
Row 3 Ch 3, 3 sc in first 3-ch sp, 1 sc in next sc (between loops), *work (3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc) all in
next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in next sc; rep from *, ending with (3 sc, ch 3, 1 sc) in last 6-ch loop, turn. 2
Row 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in first 3-ch picot, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 3-ch picot; rep from * to end, turn. 1
Row 5 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1, 6 dc in next 5-ch loop, ch 1, 1 sc in next sc; rep from START
* to end. Fasten off. HERE
Simple multiple-stitch edging

Row 2 (RS) 1 ch, 1 ss in first sc, *1 sc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 dc
2
in next sc, 3 tr in next sc, 1 dc in next sc, 1 hdc in next sc, 1 sc in next sc,
1
1 ss in next sc; rep from * to end. Fasten off.
START
HERE
Petal edging

Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 6, skip next 6 sc, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
all in next sc, ch 6, skip next 6 sc, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end, turn. 3
Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 6, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) all in next 2-ch 2
1
sp, ch 6, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to end. Fasten off.
START
Note: When blocking this edging, pin out each point at each 2-ch sp HERE
to achieve correct shape.
Circles edging

Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in ninth ch from hook, *ch 7, skip next 5 ch, 1 sc in
next ch; rep from * to last 3 ch, ch 3, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in last ch, turn. 3
Row 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, *ch 5, 1 dc in next 2
sc; rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 sc in 4th ch from last sc in previous
1
row, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 3, 1 sc in 7-ch loop START
of row 1 (catching 5-ch loop in previous row inside sc); rep from * to end HERE
working last sc of last rep in last sc of row 2.

Fasten off.
Working crocheted edges

Crocheted edgings are extremely versatile, since you can work them separately or as an integral part of your fabric.
If you work the edge separately, in a strip or ribbon, you must then attach the edge to your piece by simply sewing it
to the fabric with a whipstitch (see p. 87). Working an edging directly onto the main fabric is usually preferable, since
it creates a seamless, unified fabric with less finishing.
Edgings worked into woven fabrics

Non-knitted/crocheted fabrics can also be edged in crochet. Towels, pillows, a fabric ground, you may need to hem the material first before attempting
pillowcases, napkins, and dish towels with a fancy crocheted edge elevate the to edge it. If the fabric is not too dense, you may be able to insert the hook
everyday household items into desirable decorative interior pieces. Woven fabric straight through it on the first row. However, a neater, more even finish can
may need a bit more preparation before an edge is worked, especially with a tight be achieved when you prepare the edge first. You can do this in various ways
weave or an edge likely to fray. To prevent fraying under the crochet when using with differing results to the finished edge.
Attaching a crocheted edging using the punched hole method
1 First, mark where you want the hook to be inserted, at regular

intervals along the seam or selvage. 2 Make a series of holes in the edge of the fabric by using the tip of
the hook, a large darning needle, or a fabric eyelet hole punch if you
are using bulky yarn and a large hook. Make sure that you make the
appropriate multiple of holes required for the edge.
3 Join the yarn to the first space with a slip stitch (see p. 26), and
then work 1 chain stitch.
Working crocheted edges 97
4 Work 1 single crochet (see p. 32) into the first hole. Do not pull
the yarn tightly or the fabric will pucker. 5 Then work 1 single crochet into each hole evenly along the
edge, making sure to keep the stitches loose.
Attaching a crocheted edging using the blanket stitch method

1 Choose a sewing or
embroidery thread,
or the crochet thread
2 Sew an even,
traditional blanket
stitch (see p. 87) along
you intend to use for the the edge of the fabric.
edge. This could be the Make sure that the
same color as the edging number of stitches
or a complementary used is a multiple
shade. A contrasting that works with the
color to both the edge stitches in the edge
and the fabric can also to create a neat finish.
look effective.
3 Attach the edging yarn to the horizontal top

edge of the first blanket stitch. 4 Work the first single crochet row into
the blanket stitches. 5 Make sure that you work the same multiple of
edge stitches into each blanket stitch, around
the top horizontal line of each. Fasten off the yarn
and weave in all ends.
Crochet-edged pillows
Adding an attractive crocheted embellishment to a pillow or bolster is a quick
and easy way to personalize store-bought home furnishing. Turn to pages 96–97
for detailed information about working a crocheted edge.
Either make your own pillows or use bought and last cluster at the same time by drawing
ones with a matching or contrasting thread the loop through all 7 loops on hook; rep from
PROJECTS for the edging. * to last 6-ch sp, (4 ch, 1 3-dc cluster in same
For more pillow patterns ch sp) twice, 1 dc in last sc.
>> go to pages 122 and 152 Cluster scallop pillow Fasten off.
Prepare the edge to be embellished by making
holes at regular intervals along the edge, Triple picot variation pillow
Essential information approx 1⁄4in (5mm) from the edge. You will Prepare the edge to be embellished by working
need a multiple of eight, plus one hole for this a blanket stitch along the RS of the edge,
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Intermediate
edging to work. using the yarn you will be edging with. Make
SIZE To fit the length of your pillow With RS facing, attach yarn to the edge to be a multiple of 4 blanket stitches.
embellished, work 1 ch. Attach yarn to the first blanket stitch, with
YARN Any cotton yarn will suit a fine print or silky
ROW 1 Work 1 sc into each hole along the edge. WS facing.
fabric. Use a DK yarn for a heavier weight edging
ROW 2 Ch 1, 3 sc, *6 ch, skip next 3 sc, 5 sc; ROW 1 Work 4 sc into the first blanket stitch,
rep from * to last 6 sc, 6 ch, skip next 3 sc, then work 3 sc into each of next blanket
1 sc in each of last 3 sc, turn. stitches along edge, turn.
x1 ROW 3 Ch 3, 1 3-dc cluster in next 6 ch sp, *4 ROW 2 Ch 5, work (1 sc, [5 ch, 1 sc] twice) all
ch, 1 3-dc cluster in same ch sp, 4 ch, 1 3-dc in first sc, *4 ch, skip next 5 sc, sc into next sc,
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2.5mm) hook cluster in same ch sp, but do not close the 4 ch, skip next 5 sc, (1 sc, [5 ch, 1 sc]
cluster (leave last 4 loops on hook), 1 3-dc 3 times) all in next sc; rep from * to end.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
cluster in next 6-ch sp and close this cluster Fasten off.
Pillow cover ready to embellish

Cluster scallop diagram
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
3-DC CLUSTER: 3-double cluster. (Yo, insert hook
into ch sp, yo and draw a loop through, yo and
3
draw through first 2 loops on hook) 3 times in 2
1
next 6-ch sp, 4 loops now on hook, yo and draw
through all 4 loops on hook to close 3-dc group. START HERE
Triple picot variation diagram
>> These edgings are made with DMC Size 8 Pearl 1

Cotton, 95yds/90m/10g, in Red (321). START HERE
It is very easy to adapt the stitch patterns on The cluster scallop edging is a reversible design that
pages 90–95 to suit your own project. The edging looks pretty from all angles. This edging is attached to
above has changed the triple picot edging on page 93 the pillow using the punched hole method. Pages 96–97
by taking out every other picot and adding in a single give detailed instructions, plus information about the
crochet instead for a simple variation. blanket stitch method.
Circular crochet
Crochet can be worked not only back and forth in rows, but also around and around in circles to form tubes or flat shapes
started from the center (called medallions). The basic techniques for crocheting in the round are very easy to learn, even for
a beginner, so it is not surprising that many popular crochet accessories are made with circular crochet, including flowers and
afghan motifs, as well as seamless toys, hats, mittens, containers, and bags.
Crocheting tubes
Tubular crochet is started on a long chain of foundation stitches that are joined around this foundation ring. The easiest of all crochet cylinders is a single
at the ends to form a ring. The subsequent rounds of stitches are then worked crochet tube, shown below, which is worked in a spiral without turning chains.
Starting a tube
1 Start the crochet
cylinder, or tube,
with the length of Completed
2 Draw a loop through
the chain and at the
same time through the loop
slip stitch
chain specified in your on the hook to complete the
joint
crochet pattern. Then, slip stitch. This joins the chain
insert the hook through into a ring. Work the first and
Make sure the first chain. following rounds as directed
chain is not
in your pattern.
twisted
Single crochet spiral tube

First sc
worked in Move marker up at
same place end of each round
as slip stitch
Work next Mark last stitch

stitch into first of round Work with right
stitch of round side always facing
1 Make the foundation ring and work one chain.

Work the first single crochet into the same place
as the slip stitch. Then work 1 sc into each of the
2 Place a stitch marker on the last stitch of the
first round to keep track of where the rounds
begin and end. To begin the second round, work the
3 On the second round, work 1 sc in each sc
in the round below. At the end of the round,
move the marker up onto the last stitch of this
remaining chains of the ring. next stitch into the first stitch of the previous round. round. (As the spiral grows, the beginning of
the round moves gradually to the right.) Continue
around and around in the same way until the
crochet tube is the required length.
Circular crochet 101
Double crochet tube without turns

When basic stitches taller than single crochet are used to make crochet
tubes, each round is started with a turning chain.
1 To work a double
crochet tube with
the right side of the work
3 chains count always facing (without
as first stitch
turns), begin with 3 chains.
of round
Then work 1 dc into the
next chain and each
of the remaining chains 3 chains count
as first stitch
around the ring.
Join with a slip

stitch to top
2 At the end of the
round, join the last
stitch to the top of the
of 3 chains
turning chain at the
beginning of the round by
working a slip stitch into
the third of the 3 chains.
3 Start the second round with 3 chains. There is no need to
mark the end of the round with a stitch marker since the
turning chain shows where each round begins. Continue around
the tube again, working 1 dc into each dc in the previous round.
At the end of the second round, join the last stitch to the top of
the turning chain with a slip stitch. Continue in the same way,
beginning all following rounds with 3 chains.
Double crochet tube with turns

If a double crochet tube needs to match crochet worked in rows in other parts
of an item, then the work can be turned at the end of each round.
Tube turned to
start second
round Second round
shows backs
of doubles
First round
shows fronts
of doubles
1 Work the first round in double crochet as for a tube without

turns. Then turn the work, make 3 chains as shown, and
complete the round.
2 To begin the third round, turn the work and start with 3 chains. Continue in
this way, joining the last stitch with a slip stitch to the top of the turning
chain at the end of each round, then turning the work to start the next round.
The fabric looks just like double crochet that has been worked in ordinary rows.
A basic granny square

If you are new to crochet, the granny square, medallion, or motif (also called an afghan square),
is an excellent practice project, and a great way to perfect your double crochet. If you are a
seasoned crocheter, there are many variations on the basic granny square that you can try.
Practice square: Use a different color for each

round until you are confident making granny squares. 1 Work 6 chains and join with a slip stitch to
form a ring. For round 1, work 3 chains, then
2 doubles in the ring, then 3 more chains; *then
2 Rep from * 2 more times. Join the round with
a slip stitch to the top of the first chain. Break
off yarn at the end of this and every round for a
3 doubles in the ring and 3 chains. striped medallion, adding different colors randomly
for each round.
Turn the square as you work.
3 For round 2, join new yarn in any 3-ch sp, chain 3, work 2 doubles,
chain 3 and work 3 doubles in the same space; *chain 1, work
3 doubles, chain 3 and work 3 doubles all in the next 3-ch sp. Repeat
4 For round 3, join the yarn in any 3-ch sp, chain 3, work 2 doubles, chain 3 and work 3
doubles in the same space. Chain 1, work 3 doubles in the next 1-ch sp; *chain 1, work
3 doubles, chain 3 and work 3 doubles all in the next 3-ch sp for the corner. Chain 1, work
from * 2 more times, then chain 1. Join round with a slip stitch to the 3 doubles in the next 1-ch sp. Repeat from * around, then chain 1. Join round with a slip
top of the first chain. stitch to the top of the first chain.
Joining medallions
Right sides
together
Right sides
facing upward
Flat slip-stitch seam: Working seams with crochet stitches is the quickest Single-crochet seam: A single-crochet seam is also quick to work, but it
way to join medallions. For a slip-stitch seam, lay the two medallions side by side. forms a ridge, so is best worked on the wrong side. Place the two medallions
Work each slip stitch through only 1 loop (the back loop) of the top of a stitch with the right sides together. Then work each single crochet through only
on each medallion. (Use a hook one size smaller than the hook used for the 1 loop of the top of a stitch on each medallion (the loop closest to you on
medallions, but work the stitches very loosely.) the top medallion and the loop farthest from you on the bottom medallion).
The join-as-you-go method

When making medallions, you can create a neat and practically invisible seam
by joining each medallion to the others as you work. To demonstrate the
technique, a traditional granny square method is described, but you can apply
the same technique to other types of medallion. First, crochet one complete
medallion, then work the second medallion up to the penultimate round, but
don’t fasten off. Work along the edge of the second medallion, right up until
you are about to make the corner chain. Work 1 chain and attach with a slip
stitch into one of the corner chains on the first medallion, and finish off the
corner space with 1 chain and a group of three doubles into the corner space.
Instead of working 1 chain before the next group of doubles, join with
a slip stitch into the next 1-chain space on the first medallion. Work the next
group of doubles along the edge of your second medallion, before joining it
to the first medallion with a slip stitch as before.
Continue in this way until you get to the next corner, then join the corner
chain of the second medallion to the corner chain of the first in the same
way as before. Now, continue around the edges to complete the second
medallion. Once you have completed the second medallion, fasten off.
Repeat for all following medallions, noting that some will need to be joined
along two edges.
Simple medallion patterns

Making crochet medallions is a great way to use up yarn scraps, and this was technique with a smooth, standard lightweight or medium-weight wool yarn.
probably the reason they became so popular. You can sew medallions together When following diagrams, use colors as explained in the written instructions.
to form small items like bags or pillow covers, or to form larger items like throws The tones used in the diagram are used to distinguish the rows and do not
and baby blankets. Joined medallions also make great scarves and shawls, indicate color changes. (See p. 83 for a list of crochet abbreviations and basic
especially when made in gossamer mohair. But if you are a beginner, stick to stitch symbols.) Join on new colors (see p. 57). Do not turn the medallions at
less hairy yarns when making your first medallions since it is easier to learn the the end of the rounds, but work with the right side always facing.
Traditional afghan square

This square is worked in 4 colors (A, B, C, D), a different color for each round.
With A, ch 4 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) With A, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp), (3 dc in ring, 2 ch (these
2-ch form a corner sp]) 3 times, 2 dc in ring, join with a ss to third of 5 ch. Fasten off A.
Round 2 With B, join with a ss to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5, 3 dc in same corner sp, *ch
1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc ) in next 2-ch corner sp; rep from * twice more, ch 1, 2 dc in
same corner sp as 5 ch at beg of round, join with a ss to third of 5 ch. Fasten off B.
Round 3 With C, join to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5, 3 dc in same corner sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in
next 1-ch sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc ) in next 2-ch corner sp; rep from * twice more,
ch 1, 3 dc in next 1-ch sp, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp as 5-ch at beg of round, join with a
ss to third of 5 ch. Fasten off C.
Round 4 With D, join to a 2-ch corner sp, ch 5, 3 dc in same corner sp, *(ch 1, 3 dc
in next 1-ch sp) twice, 1 ch, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next 2-ch corner sp; rep from *
twice more, (ch 1, 3 dc in next 1-ch sp) twice, ch 1, 2 dc in same sp as 5 ch at beg
of round, join with a ss to third of 5 ch.
Fasten off.
Plain square
This square is worked in 4 colors (A, B, C, D).
Using A, ch 4 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp), (3 dc in ring, ch 2) 3 times,
2 dc in ring, join with a ss to third of 5 ch.
Round 2 1 ss in next ch, ch 7 (counts as 1 dc and a 4-ch sp), 2 dc in same 2-ch
corner sp, *1 dc in each of next 3 dc, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next 2-ch corner sp; rep
from * twice more, 1 dc in each of next 3 sts (working last of these dc in top of
turning ch at beg of previous round), 1 dc in same sp as 7 ch at beg of round, join
with a s to third of 7 ch. Fasten off A.
Round 3 With B, join to a 4-ch corner sp, ch 7, 2 dc in same corner sp, *1 dc in
each of dc along this side of square, (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in next 4-ch corner sp; rep
from * twice more, 1 dc in each of dc along this side of square (working last of
these dc in top of turning ch at beg of previous round), 1 dc in same sp as 7 ch
at beg of round, join with a ss to third of 7 ch. Fasten off B.
Round 4 With D, rep round 3.
Fasten off.
Flower hexagon
Note: bobble = (yo and insert hook in sc, yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw
through first 2 loops on hook) 5 times all in same sc (6 loops now on hook), yo and
draw through all 6 loops on hook.
This hexagon is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1, 12 sc in ring, join with a ss to first sc.
Round 2 Ch 3, (yo and insert hook in same sc as last ss, yo and draw a loop through,
yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in same sc (5 loops now on
hook), yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook (counts as first bobble), *ch 5, skip
next sc, 1 bobble in next sc; rep from * 4 times more, ch 5, join with a ss to top of first
bobble. Fasten off A.
Round 3 With B, join with a ss to top of a bobble, ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp),
1 dc in same place as ss, *5 dc in next 5-ch sp, (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in top of next bobble; rep
from * 4 times more, 5 dc in next 5-ch sp, join with a ss to third of 5 ch at beg of round.
Fasten off.
Simple hexagon
Crochet diagram This hexagon is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
Using A, ch 6 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1(RS) Ch 3, dc2tog (counts as first cluster), (ch 3, 1 cluster in ring) 5 times,
ch 1, join with 1 hdc in top of first cluster.
Round 2 Ch 3, dc2tog in sp formed by 1-hdc, *ch 3, (1 cluster, 3 ch, 1 cluster) in next
3-ch sp; rep from *4 times more, ch 3, 1 cluster in next 1-ch sp, 1 ch, join with 1 hdc in
top of first cluster changing to B with last yo of hdc. Cut off A.
Round 3 With B, ch 3, dc2tog in sp formed by 1-hdc, *ch 3, (1 cluster, ch 3, 1 cluster)
in next 3-ch sp, ch 3, 1 cluster in next 3-ch sp; rep from * 4 times more, ch 3, (1 cluster,
ch 3, 1 cluster) in next 3-ch sp, ch 1, join with 1 hdc in top of first cluster changing to C
with last yo of hdc. Cut off B.
Crochet instructions Round 4 With C, ch 3, 1 dc in sp formed by 1-hdc, *3 dc in next 3-ch sp, (3 dc, ch 2,
Note: cluster = (yo and insert hook in sp, yo and draw a loop through, yo 3 dc) in next 3-ch sp, 3 dc in next 3-ch sp; rep from * 4 times more, 3 dc in next 3-ch
and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in same sp (4 loops now sp, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next 1-ch sp, join with a ss to third of 3 ch
on hook), yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. at beg of round.
Fasten off.
Circle
Cluster (cl): Work 3 half finished doubles into the next stitch, then finish them
off together. Yo, insert into st, pull loop through, yo, pull through 2 loops, (yo, insert
into same st, pull loop through, yo, pull through 2 loops) twice, 4 loops on hook, yo
and pull through all loops.
With yarn A, 5 ch, join into round with ss.
Round 1 Ch 3, (1 cluster, 2 ch) 6 times in ring.
Change to yarn B, attaching to any 2-ch sp.
Round 2 Ch 3, (1 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc), (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in each 2-ch sp around, join round
with ss. Change to yarn C, attaching to any 2-ch sp.
Round 3 Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, 2 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch) into each sp around, join round with ss.
Change to yarn D, attaching to any 2-ch sp.
Round 4 As round 3. Fasten off.
Triangle
With yarn A, work 5 ch, ss in first ch to join round.
Round 1 Ch 3, (2 dc, 3 ch) into ring, (3 dc, 2 ch) twice in ring, join round with ss.
Change to yarn B, attaching to any 3-ch sp.
Round 2 Ch 3, (2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) into same ch sp, *2 ch, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) into next
ch sp; rep from * twice, join round with ss.
Round 3 Ch 3, (2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in same ch sp, 2 ch, 3 dc in next 2-ch sp, *(3 dc,
3 ch, 3 dc) into next ch sp, 2 ch, 3 dc in next 2-ch sp, 2 ch; rep from * to end, join
round with ss.
Change to yarn D, attaching to any 3-ch sp.
Round 4 Ch 3, (2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in same ch sp, 2 ch, (3 dc in next 2-ch sp, 2 ch)
twice, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) into next ch sp, 2 ch, (3 dc in next 2-ch sp, 2 ch) twice;
rep from * to end, join round with ss.
Simple flower patterns

Crochet flowers are very seductive—even simple ones like these, which are Sprinkled over a pillow cover, they will make a bold statement in a room as
all easy and very quick to make. You may want to try them out right away well. When following diagrams, use colors as explained in written instructions.
but wonder what to do with them. First, they make great pins, which, in turn, The symbol tones are used to distinguish the rows and do not indicate color
are perfect gifts. Just sew a safety pin to the back and maybe a button or an changes. (See p. 83 for a list of crochet abbreviations and basic stitch symbols.)
artificial pearl to the flower center. Flowers and leaves can also be used to Join on new yarn colors as explained on page 57. Do not turn at the end of the
decorate crocheted (or knitted) hats, the ends of scarves, glove cuffs, or bags. rounds, but work with the right side of the flowers always facing.
Heptagon flower
Note: cluster = (yo twice and insert hook in sp, yo and draw a loop through,
[yo and draw through first 2 loops on hook] twice) 4 times all in same sp (5 loops
now on hook), yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
This flower is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
With A, make ch 4 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 4 (counts as first tr), 20 tr in ring, join with a ss to fourth of
4 ch. Fasten off A.
Round 2 With B, join with a ss to same place as last ss, ch 1 (does NOT count as
a st), 1 sc in same place as last ss, (5 ch, skip next 2 tr, 1 sc in next tr) 6 times,
ch 5, join with a ss to first sc of round.
Round 3 *Work (1 ss, ch 4, 1 cluster, ch 4, 1 ss) all in next 5-ch loop; rep from *
6 times more, join with a ss to last sc in round 2.
Fasten off.
Short loop flower

With A, Ch 4 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 8 sc in ring, join with a ss to first sc
of round.
Round 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 sc in same place as ss, *2 sc in next sc;
rep from * to end, join with a ss to first sc of round. (16 sc) Fasten off A.
Round 3 With B, join with a ss to a sc, ch 1, work (1 sc, ch 9, 1 sc) all in same
place as last ss, 1 sc in next sc, *work (1 sc, ch 9, 1 sc) all in next sc, 1 sc in next
sc; rep from * 6 times more, join with a ss to first sc of round. Fasten off.
Long loop flower

This flower is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
With A, Ch 4 and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), 8 sc in ring, join with a ss to first sc
of round. Fasten off A.
Round 2 With B, join with a ss to a sc, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 sc in same
place as last ss, *2 sc in next sc; rep from * to end, join with a ss to first sc of
round. 16 sc. Fasten off B.
Round 3 With C, join with a ss to a sc, ch 1, work (1 sc, ch 17, 1 sc) all in same
place as last ss, *work (1 sc, ch 17, 1 sc) all in next sc; rep from * 14 times more,
join with a ss to first sc of round.
Fasten off.
Pentagon flower
Round 1 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 4 dc in ring, (ch 1, 5 dc in ring) 4 times,
ch 1, join with a ss to top of 3-ch at beg of round. Fasten off A.
Round 2 With B, join with a ss to a center dc of a 5-dc group, ch 1, 1 sc in
same place as last ss, (7 tr in next 1-ch sp, 1 sc in center dc of next 5-dc group)
4 times, 7 tr in next 1-ch sp, join with a ss to first sc of round.
Fasten off.
Square petal flower

This flower is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
With A, make 4 ch and join with a ss to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc in ring, join with a ss to top
of 3 ch at beg of round. Fasten off A.
Round 2 With B, join with a ss same place as last ss, ch 1 (does NOT count
as a st), 2 sc in same place as last ss, 2 sc in each dc to end, join with a ss to first
sc of round. (24 sc) Fasten off B.
Round 3 With C, join with a ss to a sc, *ch 4, 1 tr in next sc, 2 tr in next sc,
1 tr in next sc, ch 4, 1 ss in next sc; rep from * 5 times more working last ss in
same place as first ss of round.
Fasten off.
Simple leaf
Note: The leaf is worked in one row, around both sides of the foundation chain.
To begin leaf and stem, ch 23.
Row 1 (RS) Working into only one loop of each foundation chain, work 1 sc in
second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of next 10 ch (this completes the stem), 1 hdc
START HERE in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next
2 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next ch (this is the last ch), ch 3, then continue
working around other side of foundation ch (working into other loop of each ch)
as follows—1 sc in first ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 tr in
each of next 4 ch, 1 dc in each of next 2 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 ss in next ch.
Fasten off. Press stem flat.
Openwork
Whether worked with fine threads for lace collars, pillow edgings, and tablecloths or with soft yarns for shawls, throws,
and scarves, openwork crochet has an enduring appeal. As illustrated by the easy techniques on this page and the next,
these airy lace textures are produced by working chain spaces and chain loops between the basic stitches.
Simple lace techniques

A few of the openwork stitch patterns on pages 113–115 are explained here to loops, shells, and picots. Refer to the instructions for the stitches when
provide an introduction to some popular openwork crochet techniques—chain following the steps.
Chain loop mesh

1 After working the first
row of chain loops into
the foundation chain as
2 Remember to work the
last sc of each row into
the space inside the turning
explained (see p. 113), work chain made at the beginning of
the 5-chain loops of the the previous row. If you don’t,
following rows into the loops your lace will become narrower.
below, joining them on with
a sc as shown here.
Shell mesh stitch

Sc at sides of shell
secure it to mesh Partial
row below Full shell shell
1 On the shell row of this stitch (see p. 114) start

each shell with a sc in a chain loop. Then work
all the dc of the shell into a single sc as shown.
2 Complete the shell with a sc worked into the
following chain loop. Then work a chain loop and
join it to the next chain loop with a sc as shown.
3 Continue alternating shells and chain loops
to complete the shell row. Work mesh and
shell rows alternately, working partial shells
at ends on alternate shell rows.
Picot net stitch
1 In this stitch pattern (see p. 113), work 4 chains

for each picot. Close the picot-ring by working a
slip stitch in the fourth chain from the hook as shown.
2 Work 3 sc between each of the picots in each
picot row as shown. 3 After each picot row, work a 2-chain space
above each picot and a dc between the picots,
as shown.
Openwork 109
Filet crochet
Filet crochet is the easiest of all the openwork techniques to make. Once you blocks, all you need to do is follow is a simple chart to form the motifs and
learn how to work the simple structure of the open filet mesh and the solid filet create the repeating patterns.
Making basic filet mesh

When working the foundation chain for the basic filet mesh, there is no need to start with an exact number of
chains—just make an extra-long chain and unravel the unused excess later when finishing your crochet.
Filet mesh in symbols and words: The diagram

provides the best explanation of how filet mesh is worked. Start first 3
If in doubt, work a mesh from the written pattern as follows: space with 5 ch
Make a multiple of 3 ch (3 ch for each mesh square needed), 2
plus 5 extra (to form the right side edge and top of the first
mesh square of the first row).
1
Row 1 1 dc in eighth ch from hook, *Ch 2, skip next 2 ch,
1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end.
START HERE
Row 2 Ch 5, skip first dc, 1 dc in next dc, *ch 2, 1 dc in next dc; Rep = 3 sts
rep from * working last dc in 3rd ch from last dc in row below. Filet space
Making filet blocks

The pattern motifs on filet crochet are created by filling in some of the mesh squares and leaving others
empty. In other words, the designs are built up with solid squares and square holes. Having learned how to
work the filet mesh, understanding how to fill them in to form blocks is easy.
Filet blocks in symbols: The diagram illustrates how

5
the blocks are made—instead of working 2 chains to form Working a block
an empty square, work 2 doubles to fill in the square. An into a space
4
individual block consists of a double on each side and
2 doubles in the center. To work a block above a filet Filet block
3
space, work the 2 center doubles into the 2-chain space.
To work a block above another block, work a double into
2
each of the doubles below.
START HERE
Reading filet charts

This chart on the right shows the simple motif in the block symbol diagram above. Although 5
actual filet charts are bigger and have elaborate patterns (see pp. 110–112), the principle is
4
the same as for this tiny chart. Each square on the chart represents either a filet space or
a filet block. Please note that left-handed crocheters will need to work the diagram and
3
instructions in a mirror image. Read Read
To start working from a chart, make 3 chains for each of the squares along the bottom even- odd-
2
numbered numbered
row of the chart, plus 5 chains extra. (You can work the chart stitch-repeat as many times
rows from rows from
as desired.) Working the chart from the bottom upward, make the blocks and spaces on the 1 right to left
left to right
chart, while reading the first row and all following odd-numbered rows from right to left, and
the even-numbered rows from left to right.
Key = filet space = filet block
Filet stitch patterns

Follow the instructions on page 109 to work filet crochet from these charts. The patterns by filling in parts of a chain stitch mesh with treble crochet stitches.
best yarn to use for filet lace is a superfine cotton yarn and a suitably small-sized Because filet crochet is reversible, it makes great curtains. It can also be used for
crochet hook (see recommended hook sizes on p. 14). This technique forms edgings along the ends of pillowcases and hand towels, or even wall hangings.
Special note and symbol key Key

Repeat the charted motifs as many times as desired widthwise and work across the stitches in = filet space
rows until the chart is complete. To continue the pattern upward, start at row 1 again. = filet block
Diamonds border
Crochet chart
13
10
Rep = 8
Flowers and circles
Crochet chart
20
10
Zigzag border Rep = 13
Crochet chart
12
10
Rep = 8
Openwork 111
Apple
Crochet chart
24
20
10
Rep = 15
Bloom
Crochet chart
20
10
Rep = 19
Crosses border
Crochet chart
13
10
Rep = 6
Heart
Crochet chart
19
10
Rep = 13
Dog
Crochet chart
18
10
Rep = 13
Bird
Crochet chart
18
10
Rep = 15
Openwork 113
Simple openwork stitch patterns

Openwork crochet stitches are always popular because of their lacy appearance make the foundation chain. When working a wide piece, such as a blanket, it is
(see scarf on pp. 116–117) and because they are quicker to work than solid difficult to count and keep track of the number of foundation chains being made.
crochet textures. The written instructions below explain how many chains to In these cases, make a chain about an inch longer than the correct length and
start with. So if working from the diagram, consult the written instructions to unravel the excess later.
Chain loop mesh

4 Row 1 1 sc in sixth ch from hook, *ch 5, skip next 3 ch, 1 sc
3 in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
2 Row 2 *Ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from * to end, turn.
1 Rep row 2 to form patt.
START HERE
Picot net stitch

5
4 Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch, *ch
4, 1 ss in fourth ch from hook (called 1 picot), 1 sc in each
of next 3 ch; rep from * omitting 1 sc at end of last rep, turn.
3
Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as 1 dc and a 2-ch sp), skip first 3 sc
2
(which includes 2 sc before picot and 1 sc after picot), 1 dc
1
in next sc, *ch 2, skip next 2 sc (which includes 1 sc on each
side of picot), 1 dc in next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
START HERE Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *work
(1 sc, 1 picot, 1 sc) all in next 2-ch sp, 1 sc in next dc; rep
from * working last sc of last rep in third ch from last dc, turn.
Open shell stitch

5 Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *skip next 2 ch,
5 dc in next ch, skip next 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from *
4
to end, turn.
3 Row 2 Ch 5 (counts as first dc and a 2-ch sp), 1 sc in
2 center dc of first shell, *ch 5, 1 sc in center dc of next shell;
rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
1
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc,
START HERE *5 dc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from * working
last sc of last rep in third ch from last sc, turn.
Arched mesh stitch

5
Row 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, ch 2, skip next
4
ch, 1 dc in next ch, *ch 2, skip next ch, 1 sc in next
3 ch, ch 2, skip next ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to
2 end, turn.
1
START HERE ch 2, 1 dc in next sc, *ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, ch 2, 1 dc
in next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
Rep row 2 to form patt.
Banded net stitch

5 Row 1 (RS) 1 dc in tenth ch from hook, *ch 3, skip
next 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
4
3 *ch 3, 1 sc in next dc; rep from *, ending with ch 3,
skip next 3 ch, 1 sc in next ch, turn.
2
Row 3 Ch 6 (counts as 1 dc and a 3-ch sp), skip first
1 sc and first 3-ch sp, 1 dc in next sc, *ch 3, 1 dc in
next sc; rep from * to end, turn.
START HERE
Shell mesh stitch

8
7 Row 1 (RS) 2 dc in fourth ch from hook, *skip next
6 2 ch, 1 sc in next ch, ch 5, skip next 5 ch, 1 sc in next
5 ch, skip next 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch; rep from *, ending
4 last rep with 3 dc (instead of 5 dc) in last ch, turn.
3 Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc,
2 *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop, ch 5, 1 sc in 3rd dc of
1 next 5-dc shell; rep from * working last sc of last rep
START HERE in top of 3 ch at end, turn.
Row 3 *Ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop, 5 dc in next sc,
1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from *, ending with ch 2,
1 dc in last sc, turn.
*ch 5, 1 sc in third dc of next 5-dc shell, ch 5, 1 sc in
next 5-ch loop; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 5 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first sc, *1 sc
in next 5-ch loop, ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop, 5 dc in
next sc; rep from * ending last rep with 3 dc (instead
of 5 dc) in last sc, turn.
Rep rows 2–5 to form patt.
Openwork 115
Blocks lace
7 Make a multiple of 5 ch, plus 2 extra.
Row 1 (RS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 5, skip
6
next 4 ch, 1 sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
5
4 Row 2 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first sc,
3 *5 sc in next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in next sc; rep from * to
2 end, turn.
1
START Row 3 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), skip first sc, 1 dc in each
HERE of next 5 sc, *ch 1, skip next sc, 1 dc in each of next 5 sc;
Note: When working from diagram,
rep from * to last sc, 1 dc in last sc, turn.
rep rows 2–7 to form patt.
Row 4 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first dc, *Ch
5, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * working last sc of last
rep in top of 3-ch at end, turn.
Tiara lace
6 Row 1 (WS) 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 5, skip
5 next ch 3, 1 sc in next ch; rep from *to last 2 ch, ch 2,
4 skip next ch, 1 dc in last ch, turn.
3 Row 2 (RS) Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first
2 st, skip next 2-ch sp, 7 dc in next 5-ch loop, 1 sc in next
1 5-ch loop, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop, 7 dc in next 5-ch
START
HERE loop, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop; rep from *, ending with ch 2,
1 tr in last sc, turn.
Row 3 Ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first tr, ch
5, 1 sc in second of next 7-dc shell, ch 5, 1 sc in sixth dc
of same shell, *ch 5, 1 sc in next 5-ch loop, ch 5, 1 sc in
second of next 7-dc shell, ch 5, 1 sc in sixth dc of same
shell; rep from *, ending with ch 2, 1 tr in last sc, turn.
Fans stitch
5 Row 1 1 dc in fifth ch from hook, ch 2, skip next 5 ch, 4
dc in next ch, *ch 2, 1 dc in next ch, ch 2, skip next 5 ch,
4 4 dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
3 Row 2 Ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, *ch 2, skip next 2-ch sp and
work (4 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) all in following 2-ch sp; rep from *
2
to last 2-ch sp, skip last 2-ch sp and work 4 dc in 4-ch
1 loop at end, turn.
START Rep row 2 to form patt.
HERE
Shell mesh scarf

This openwork scarf, using lace crochet techniques and fine yarn, is warm
but delicate enough to carry you from fall through to spring. Turn to
pages 113–115 for a collection of alternative openwork stitch patterns.
NOTIONS Yarn needle ROW 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, *5 ch, 1 sc in third
dc of next 5 dc shell, 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch loop.
PROJECTS Repeat from * to end. Turn.
For more openwork patterns ROW 5 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first sc,
>> go to pages 200 and 250 *1 sc in next ch loop, 5 ch, 1 sc in next ch loop,
Pattern 5 dc in next sc. Repeat from * ending last
Work 64 ch (any multiple of 12 sts plus 4 repeat with 3 dc (instead of 5) in last sc. Turn.
Essential information extra will work). Repeat rows 2–5 to form pattern until the
ROW 1 2 dc in fourth ch from hook. *skip 2 sts, scarf is the required length.
1 sc in next st, 5 ch, skip 5 sts, 1 sc in next st, Fasten off, weave in ends.
SIZE Approx 50 x 51⁄2in (125 x 14cm), with skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st. Repeat from * and
4in (10cm) tassels ending last repeat with 3 dc (instead of 5) Making the tassels
in last st. Turn. Cut the yarn into 10in (25cm) lengths. Tie
YARN Use any fine merino for the same effect
ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc, *5 ch, 1 sc in next bundles of 15 lengths together in an overhand
ch loop, ch 5, 1 sc in third dc of next 5 dc shell, knot through each chain loop space at the
repeat from * and work last sc of last repeat in ends of the scarf—this scarf has 10 tassels
x1 top of ch at end. Turn. at either end.
ROW 3 *Ch 5, 1 sc in next ch loop, 5 dc in next
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook sc, 1 sc in next ch loop. Repeat from * and >> This scarf is made with Rowan Fine Lace,
ending with 2 ch, 1 dc in last sc. Turn. 437yds/400m/50g, in Aged (933).
1 To crochet the shell pattern used for this scarf,

insert your hook into the single crochet stitch
from the row below.
2 Work the double stitches for the shell, see
pattern above, into the sc. Complete the shell
by working 5 doubles into the same sc stitch.
3 Encourage the shell to “fan out” within the scarf
by working a sc into the next chain space before
working the next shell sequence.
Colorwork
One-color crochet has its charms, but using your creative imagination to combine colors is both more challenging
and more rewarding. All of the crochet colorwork techniques are easy to master and worth experimenting with.
They include colorwork stitch patterns (see pp. 119–121), stripes, jacquard, and intarsia (see p. 39 and below).
Jacquard and intarsia colorwork

Jacquard and intarsia crochet are both worked in single crochet stitches. enclose it. When a color is used only in an area of the crochet rather than
Jacquard is usually worked with only two colors in a row; the color not in use across the entire row, the intarsia technique is required; a different length
is carried across the top of the row below and stitches are worked over it to of yarn is used for each section of color.
Colorwork charts Jacquard chart Intarsia chart
The charted crochet design will reveal 12 17

which technique to use—jacquard or Read odd-
10 numbered Add in new
intarsia. If the pattern on the chart Read even- rows from colors only in
shows two colors repeated across numbered right to left, areas where
rows from 10
each horizontal row of squares, then and carry they are needed
left to right both colors
the jacquard technique is required.
across row Start here and
Motifs worked in isolation require the 5 read rows as for
intarsia technique. Each square on the 2 Start here jacquard chart
charts represent one single crochet. 1
1
Rep = 6 sts
Jacquard technique
Pass old Enclose

color to color not
front before in use inside
picking up stitches
new color
1 To change to a new color in jacquard, work up

to the last yo of the single crochet stitch before
the color change, then pass the old color to the
2 Work the next stitch in the new color in the
usual way, but keep the old yarn positioned
along the top of the row below so that the single
front of the work over the top of the new color crochet stitches in the new color enclose it.
and use the new color to complete the stitch.
Colorwork 119
Intarsia technique
Drop old color on New color

1 To change to a new color
in intarsia, work to the
position on the chart where
wrong side of work
the motif begins, but stop
before working the last yo
of the previous stitch. Then
use the new color to complete
the single crochet.
You can use bobbins to hold

2 Work all the required
stitches in the new color
as shown. Then join in another
different yarns, rather than Pick up
having all the balls of yarn ball (or length of yarn) for the
colors in
attached to the back of next row to next area of background color.
the work use again Use a separate yarn for each
area of color.
Work stitches
over yarn tail
of new color
Simple colorwork stitch patterns

Crochet colorwork stitch patterns are lots of fun to work. This selection of stitches, one of its best features. If you want to make a scarf, shawl, baby blanket, throw,
all easy-to-work, includes an array of textures, so you are sure to find one that or pillow cover with one of these stitches, take your time to choose the right color
catches your eye. Although some of the stitches have a right and wrong side, the combination. See page 83 for abbreviations and basic stitch symbols. Any special
back and front of these fabrics still look very similar. The reversibility of crochet is symbols are given with the individual diagram.
Simple zigzag stitch

This pattern is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
4
3 With C, make a multiple of 16 ch, plus 2 extra.
2 Row 1 (RS) With A, 2 sc in second ch from hook,
1 *1 sc in each of next 7 ch, skip next ch, 1 sc in each
START of next 7 ch, 3 sc in next ch; rep from * to end,
HERE working 2 sc (instead of 3 sc) in last ch, turn.
Row 2 With A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 2 sc
Note: When working from diagram, in first sc, *1 sc in each of next 7 sc, skip next 2 sc,
rep rows 2 and 3 for stitch pattern.
1 sc in each of next 7 sc, 3 sc in next sc; rep from *
to end, working 2 sc (instead of 3 sc) in last sc, turn.
Rows 3 and 4 With B, rep row 2.
Rows 5 and 6 With C, (rep row 2) twice.
Rows 7 and 8 With A, (rep row 2) twice.
Colored tweed stitch

7
6 With A, make a multiple of 2 ch.
5 Row 1 With A, 1 sc in second ch from hook, *ch 1, skip next ch, 1 sc
4
in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.
3
2 Row 2 With B, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first sc, 1 sc
1 in next 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last sc,
1 sc in last sc, turn.
START HERE
Row 3 With C, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first sc,
*ch 1, 1 sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 1, skip
next sc, 1 sc in last sc, turn.
Row 4 With A, rep row 2.
Row 5 With B, rep row 3.
Row 6 With C, rep row 2
Spike stitch stripes

5 NOTE: spike st = do not work into next st, but instead insert
4
3
hook front to back through top of st one row below this st, yo and
2 draw a loop through, lengthening the loop to the height of the row
1
being worked (and enclosing the skipped st), yo and a draw through
START HERE both loops on hook to complete an elongated sc.
This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
KEY spike st in st Using A, make a multiple of 8 ch, plus 1 extra.
one row below Row 1 (RS) With A, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of
next st rem ch, turn.
Row 2 With A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each sc
to end, turn.
Row 3 With B, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), *1 sc in each of
next 3 sc, (1 spike st in top of st one row below next st) twice,
1 sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * to end, turn.
Row 4 With B, rep row 2.
Colored cluster and shell stitch

Crochet instructions
This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
Work as for cluster and shell stitch on page 85
as follows:
With A, make the foundation ch. Then work in
stripe patt, repeating the following stripe
sequence—2 rows A, 2 rows B.
Colourwork 121
Bobble stripe
Crochet diagram This pattern is worked in 3 colors (A, B, C).
With A, make a multiple of 2 ch, plus 1 extra.
7 Work the following rows in stripes, repeating this stripe sequence—1 row A,
6 1 row B, 1 row C.
Row 1 (WS) 1 hdc in third ch from hook, *skip next ch, work (1 hdc, ch 1,
5
1 hdc) all in next ch; rep from * to last ch 2, skip next ch, 2 hdc in last ch,
4 turn.Row 2 (RS) Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in first hdc, *ch 1, 1 bobble
in next 1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with ch 1, work (yo and insert hook in top
3
of 2-ch at end of row, yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw through first
2 2 loops on hook) twice all in same place (3 loops now on hook), yo and draw
through all 3 loops on hook, turn.
1
Row 3 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), *work (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc) all in next 1-ch
sp; rep from *, ending with 1 hdc in top of 3-ch, turn.
START HERE
Row 4 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 bobble in next 1-ch sp, *ch 1, 1 bobble in
Crochet instructions next 1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with 1 dc in top of 2-ch at end, turn.
NOTE: bobble = (yo and insert hook in specified st, yo and draw a loop through, yo Row 5 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 1 hdc in first dc, *work (1 hdc, ch 1, 1 hdc)
and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in same st (4 loops now on hook), all in next 1-ch sp; rep from *, ending with 2 hdc in top of 3-ch at end, turn.
yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook to complete 3-dc bobble (see p. 79). Rep rows 2–5 to form patt, while continuing stripe sequence.
Triangles spike stitch

9 NOTE: spike st = do not work into next st, but instead insert hook front
8 to back through top of st 1, 2 or 3 rows below this st, yo and draw a loop
7
6 through, lengthening the loop to the height of the row being worked (and
5
4 enclosing the skipped st), yo and a draw through both loops on hook to
3 complete an elongated sc.
2
1 This pattern is worked in 2 colors (A, B).
With A, make a multiple of 4 ch.
START HERE
Row 1 (RS) With A, 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in each of rem ch, turn.
KEY spike st in st one Row 2 With A, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in each sc to end, turn.
row below next st Rows 3 and 4 With A, (rep row 2) twice.
spike st in st 2 Row 5 (RS) With B, ch 1 (does NOT count as a st), 1 sc in first sc, *1 sc in
rows below next st next sc, 1 spike st in top of sc one row below next sc, 1 spike st in top of sc
2 rows below next sc, 1 spike st in top of sc 3 rows below next sc; rep from *
spike st in st 3 to last 2 sc, 1 sc in each of last 2 sc, turn.
rows below next st Rows 6, 7, and 8 With B, (rep row 2) 3 times.
Row 9 (RS) With A, rep row 5.
Rep rows 2–9 to form patt, ending with a patt row 5 or 9.
Colored close shells stitch

Crochet instructions
Work as for close shells stitch on page 84
as follows:
With A, make the foundation ch. Then work
in stripe patt, repeating the following stripe
sequence—1 row A, 1 row B, 1 row C.
SIZE 12 x 20in (30 x 50cm)
YARN Any DK weight yarn will work for this project
Ax4 Bx2
CROCHET HOOK F/5 US (4mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle
GAUGE 15 sts x 20 rows per 4in (10cm) square

Intarsia pillow 123
Intarsia pillow
This simple bolster pillow is worked in two pieces and has an attractive
diamond and stripe intarsia pattern. The pattern includes the option
for a double-sided pillow or for crocheting one side in plain crochet.
Working in intarsia and changing yarn color ROW 38 Repeat row 22.
before the final stage in the last stitch, with ROW 39 Repeat row 38.
PROJECTS yarn A (referred to as A) 1 ch, 10 sc, ROW 40 With A, 1 ch, sc to end of row.
For more pillow patterns yarn B (referred to as B) 1 sc, *A17 sc, B1 ROWS 4143 Repeat row 40.
>> go to pages 152, 154, and 156 sc; repeat from * 2 more times, A10 sc. ROWS 4447 With B, 1 ch, sc to end of row.
ROW 23 Repeat row 22. ROWS 4849 With A, 1 ch, sc to end of row.
NOTE When changing yarn color: with yarn A ROW 24 With A, 1 ch, 9 sc, B3 sc, *A15 sc, B3 ROWS 5051 With B, 1 ch, sc to end of row.
insert hook into next st, pull through a loop, sc; repeat from * two more times, A9 sc. ROWS 5260 With A, 1 ch sc to end of row.
change to yarn B, yo and crochet both loops ROW 25 Repeat row 24. Fasten off.
on hook. Work the next stitch in yarn B. ROW 26 With A, 1 ch, 8 sc, B2 sc, A1 sc, B2 sc,
Changing the yarn is completed in the final *A13 sc, B2 sc, A1 sc, B2 sc; repeat from * 2 Pillow back
step of the previous stitch. more times, A8 sc. Repeat instructions for pillow front.
ROW 27 Repeat row 26. For the plain version, work as follows:
Pillow front ROW 28 With A, 1 ch, 7 sc, B2 sc, A3 sc, B2 sc, With yarn A, work 76 ch.
With yarn A, work 76 ch. *A5 sc, B1 sc, A5 sc, B2 sc, A3 sc, B2 sc; repeat ROW 1 Sc into second ch from hook, sc to
ROW 1 sc into second ch from hook, sc to from * 2 more times, A7 sc. end of row. (75sts)
end. (75sts) ROW 29 Repeat row 28. ROW 2 Ch 1, sc to end of row.
ROW 2 Ch 1, sc to end of row. ROW 30 With A, 1 ch, 6 sc, B2 sc, A2 sc, B1 sc, ROWS 360 Repeat row 2.
ROWS 39 Repeat row 2. A2 sc, B2 sc, *A3 sc, B3 sc, A3 sc, B2 sc, A2 sc, Fasten off.
ROW 10 With yarn B, 1 ch, sc to end of row. B1 sc, A2 sc, B2 sc; repeat from *
ROW 11 Repeat row 10. 2 more times, A6 sc. Finishing
ROW 12 With yarn A, 1 ch, sc to end of row. ROW 31 Repeat row 30. With right sides together, sew the pillow,
ROW 13 Repeat row 12. ROW 32 Repeat row 28. leaving one shorter side open. Turn inside out
ROW 1417 With yarn B, 1 ch, sc to end ROW 33 Repeat row 32. and insert pillow form. Either sew edges
of row. ROW 34 Repeat row 26. together or insert a zipper.
ROW 1821 With yarn A, 1 ch, sc to end of row. ROW 35 Repeat row 34.
ROW 22 See chart, below right, for the ROW 36 Repeat row 24.
colorwork intarsia design. ROW 37 Repeat row 36.
<< This intarsia pillow is made with Rowan Pure

Wool DK, 142yds/130m/50g, in A: Cream (00013)
and B: Blue (00008).
Unusual stitches
If you want to try some stitches that are a little more unusual, you could try either
Tunisian Simple stitch or Broomstick stitch. While they are not difficult stitches to work,
it is best to make sure you have mastered the basics of crochet before you try them out.
Tunisian crochet
Tunisian crochet combines elements of both knitting and crochet. It produces a (a “forward” and a “return” pass) as opposed to one regular row in crochet, and
fabric that looks very similar to either a woven fabric or knitted stockinette stitch, these are worked with a special hook (see p. 19). This is because you need room
depending on the stitch variation. A row is completed by working two “passes” for the many loops on the hook during one of the passes of each row.
Tunisian crochet: Tunisian Simple stitch is the

1 Tunisian crochet begins with a regular chain,
after which each row is composed of two
passes. The first row is the foundation row. Insert
2 Repeat the last step for each chain to the end.
You will have the same number of loops on the
hook as the number of chains you began with.
easiest Tunisian stitch and produces a dense fabric. the hook into the first chain, yo and draw a loop The foundation forward pass is now complete.
Always work with the RS facing you. through, leaving this loop on the hook.
3 Now begin the return pass of the foundation

row. When you get to the end of the first
forward pass, do not turn, but simply work one chain.
4 Then, yo and pull through the first two loops
on the hook. 5 Repeat this, working off the loops in pairs until
one loop is left on the hook. The foundation, or
first row (a forward and a return pass), is complete.
6 For the forward pass of row 2, (the first regular

row), do not work a turning chain—the loop on
the hook counts as the first stitch. Skip the vertical
7 Yo and pull through the stitch, then repeat, pulling a loop through each
vertical stitch to the end of the row, leaving each loop on the hook. Work
each following forward pass of every row in this way. Now work the return pass
stitch directly under the hook and insert the hook for this (and every following) row in the same way as for steps 3 and 4. Continue
into the next vertical stitch from right to left. working Tunisian Simple stitch in this way until the project is the desired length.
Unusual stitches 125
Broomstick lace
Broomstick lace was originally made using a broom handle to create the lacy effect. Basic broomstick stitch is normally worked using
a regular hook and a 35 to 50 US (20mm–25mm/3⁄4in–1in) diameter knitting needle to create the large, lacy loops typical of this stitch.
Broomstick combination: Also known as peacock

eye crochet, this stitch can be combined with regular
crochet stitches to create pattern variations.
1 Make a chain as usual, making the last chain
larger by pulling up with the hook, and placing
it onto the knitting needle.
2 Insert the hook into the next chain, yo, and pull
a loop through.
3 Place the loop onto the

knitting needle. 4 Continue to work steps 2 and 3 until all the
loops are on the knitting needle. 5 Slide the hook through the first groups of loops
(the pattern will tell you how many), and pull
them off the needle.
6 Yo and pull through all the loops on the hook,

then work a multiple of dc stitches into the
group of loops (again, the pattern will indicate
7 Continue in this way until all the loops have been crocheted into, and this
completes a row of broomstick lace. You can continue in the same way,
drawing up loops through each stitch, or continue in regular crochet, or a
how many). mixture of both to create beautiful broomstick lace patterns.
Unusual yarns
If you want to break the monotony of working with wool yarns, why not try out some unusual materials? String, wire, rag
strips, and plastic strips are lots of fun to crochet with, and the materials used can be recycled ones. To take you through the
techniques involved, a quick-to-make item is shown with each of these “yarns.” It isn’t advisable to try to learn to crochet
with unusual yarns, so make sure you are deft at forming single crochet stitches before attempting to work with them.
String crochet
Tightly crocheted string forms a sturdy fabric suitable for containers. Because
it is usually neither too thick nor too thin, garden twine is a good choice for a
first string crochet project. It is also easy to obtain and forms a fabric that
holds its shape well.
Crocheting a round string container

1 Select a hook size for
your chosen string
that will form a firm, tight
2 Continue to follow
the circle pattern,
and work rounds 2 and 3.
single crochet fabric. As Work the stitches as
an example, a size 7 US tightly as you can. If the
Move marker
(4.5mm) crochet hook crochet doesn’t seem
up at end of
was used here with a each round tight enough, start again
natural garden twine. with a smaller hook size.
To try out string crochet,
make a small round
Use a safety container. Start with
pin as the round 1 of the flat circle
stitch marker
instructions on page 56.
Ridge formed
by working into
3 Keep working rounds
of the circle pattern
until the circle is the
4 On all the remaining
rounds of the
container, work 1 sc
only back loops
desired size for the base in each stitch of the
of the container. Then to previous round, working
start the sides of the through both loops of the
container, work 1 sc into top of the stitch below in
the back loop only of the the usual way. This will
top of each stitch in the form a tube (see p. 100
next round as shown. This for tips on working spiral
forms a ridge. crochet). Continue until
the container is the
desired height.
Unusual yarns 127
Wire crochet
As long as it is fine enough, wire is easy to crochet with, even though it takes a among the bending, airy wire loops. Adding beads to wire crochet is the best
little practice to produce even stitches. As with string crochet, it is best to stick way to jazz it up and turn it into simple jewelry like the easy-to-make, flexible
to simple single crochet for wire—more exotic stitches are difficult to distinguish bangle shown here.
Crocheting a beaded wire bangle

The easiest wire thickness to crochet with is
a 28 gauge (0.3mm) copper wire, which can be
obtained online from craft stores or stores that sell Rep = 4 rows
jewelry supplies. For this wire size, you will need a
size D-3 US (3mm) crochet hook.
= 1 sc
= 1 beaded sc
Wrong
10 side
1 Thread all the beads onto the wire before you

begin crocheting with it. The bangle worked here
uses about 27 glass beads (6–7mm in diameter), but
it is always best to string on about 10 more than you
3
think you’ll need, in case you have miscalculated. Using the wire with the beads on it, make 8 chains
to start the featured bangle. Then follow the chart
to work the beaded crochet, working the stitches loosely.
2 Make your own chart for your bead jewelry,

showing where the beads are to be placed.
This is the chart used for the simple bangle. (See 1 (RS)
Whenever the position of a bead is reached (always on
a wrong-side row), work up to the last yo of the stitch,
then slide the bead up close to the crochet and
p. 86 for how to work bead crochet.) Width of bracelet complete the stitch.
Wrong side
Alternative bangle
Right side
4 Work the bangle until it is the desired length.

End with a right-side (non-bead) row so that the
wrong side will be facing for the next row. Place the
5 After completing the single crochet seam,
cut the wire and fasten off. Darn in the wire
tails along the single crochet seam, using a
You can also make plain wire crochet bangles and
decorate them once they have been completed.
This bangle has been worked plain without any
other end of the bangle behind the next row and blunt-ended yarn needle and wrapping the wire beads. Buttons have been sewn along the center
work the last row through both layers of the bangle tightly a few times around the edge of the of the bangle with a bright, contrasting,
by inserting the hook through the foundation chain crochet. Then cut off the remaining wire close silk-button thread.
of the second layer as shown. to the bangle. Turn the bangle right side out.
Rag-strip crochet
The biggest advantage of rag-strip crochet is its limitless color palette—the “yarn” can be made from any cotton shirt-weight
or patchwork-weight fabric. To try out the technique, work circles with rag strips, and make them into a bag.
Preparing fabric strips

4321
1 To make a continuous
fabric strip 3⁄4in (2cm) wide,
cut or tear the fabric from
2 As you tear the strips,
wind them into balls. Rag
crochet uses up a lot of fabric.
selvage to selvage, stopping To start your project, you can
each tear/cut about 1⁄2in prepare some rag yarn in each
(1.5cm) from the edge. of the colors you need and
make more later as required.
(3⁄4in) 2cm wide continuous strip
Crocheting two circles for a bag

1 For a firm crochet fabric,
use a size N-15 US (10mm)
crochet hook and 3⁄4in (2cm)
Change to a new
color with last
2 Continuing to follow the
circle pattern, introduce
new colors for stripes as
yo of a round
wide patchwork-fabric-weight desired. Work the circle until
cotton strips. Simple single it is the size you want for a
crochet is the best stitch to use bag front. Then work a second
A large paper
clip is the best for rag crochet. To begin a circle circle the same size. Using the
stitch marker for a bag, work round 1 of the hook, pull any yarn tails through
for rag-strip flat circle pattern on p. 56 (but a few stitches on the wrong
crochet
leave the yarn tail at the back of side to secure them and trim
the work and do not attempt to off the ends.
work the stitches of this round
over it).
4 With the wrong sides facing, pin the bag front

and back together. Then using a sewing needle
and matching thread or thin cotton yarn, stitch the
seam just under the tops of the single crochet
stitches of the last round, leaving an opening at the
top. For a bag strap, make a long braid with some of
the fabric strip yarn or use a long ready-made cord.
Right side
Lining of front
3 Line the two circles with a harmonizing fabric print. (The

edge of the lining should reach the base of the tops of
the single crochet stitches of the last row.)
Leave an
unstitched opening
Unusual yarns 129
Plastic-strip crochet
Recycling your colorful plastic bags is a great way to help the environment. technique shown here. Then use it to experiment with plastic-strip crochet
You can create plastic yarn (or plarn) very quickly using the quick cutting by making a simple bag.
Preparing plarn strips

2 Fold the plastic tube
in half, bringing the
fold at the lower edge up
11⁄4in to 11⁄4in (3cm) from the
(3cm)
top fold.
Cut off handles
Cut off seam
at lower edge
3 Fold the bag twice
more, bringing the
lower edge up to within
Fold line
11⁄4in (3cm) of the top
with each fold.
1 Use lightweight plastic bags for plarn. To cut a continuous strip from a bag,
begin by laying it flat and smoothing it out. Trim off the seam at the lower
edge of the bag and the handles at the top.
2 layers Cut to just

past fold Second cut
First cut
Make cuts 1⁄2in 16 layers

(1.5cm) apart
4 Make vertical cuts through the 16 layers at 1⁄2in (1.5cm) intervals, stopping
each cut about 1⁄2in (1.5cm) from the two-layer top fold. Make cuts in this
way all along the folded bag.
5 Open out the bag so that you can see the area where the
strips are still joined together. To create the continuous strip,
make diagonal cuts as shown and wind the strip into a ball.
Crocheting a plarn makeup bag

If strip breaks just
knot ends together
2 To add a loop handle, make extra
chains before starting the next
round. Work single crochet stitches
Extra chains
along the extra chains. Work more
for handle rounds until the handle is the desired
width, then fasten off. Join the seam
along the lower edge by working a
row of single crochet through both
layers. Sew the two layers of the
handle together level with the side
edge of the bag to form an open
1 Use a size H-8 US (5mm) hook to crochet plarn prepared as

shown above. To make a small makeup bag, work a spiral tube
of single crochet (see p. 100).
loop. Line the bag and add a zipper.
Crocheted toys
Although crocheted toys look difficult, they are relatively easy to make, and quick as well. This step-by-
step guide to crocheting a toy provides tips for making the pieces, stuffing, sewing the parts together,
and for adding facial features (see pp. 132–135 for the pattern).
Toy techniques
This cute teddy bear has been designed for intermediate crocheters, and its The tips in the steps apply to crocheted toys in general. Start your toy project
pattern on pages 132–135 has an easy-to-follow style. Because the toy has by selecting the yarns and hook required. For the sample teddy bear, you only
a step-by-step guide, it is an ideal first toy project. Being able to see what the need two colors of yarn. Select a crochet hook that will produce a tight single-
pieces look like before they are stuffed will give you confidence that your crochet fabric, one to two sizes smaller than the size recommended for the
crocheted toy is turning out the shape that it should. yarn weight category (see p. 14).
Polyfill
You will need two balls

of a lightweight or Velvet ribbon for neck
medium-weight yarn,
one in A (main color) and
one in B
Blunt-ended yarn needle
Six-stranded cotton
Toy safety eyes embroidery thread
(for nose and mouth)
Stitch marker Choose a crochet

hook one or two sizes
The extras needed for the teddy bear are the Plastic smaller than the size
safety-eye recommended for the
same as those for most toys—embroidery thread
backs yarn weight
for the facial features, safety eyes or buttons for
the eyes, and polyfill. Be VERY careful if you are
making any toy for a small child; for these toys,
it is best to embroider the eyes or select toy
safety eyes that meet safety regulations.
Crocheted toys 131
1 Place a stitch marker or scrap of different-

colored yarn as you crochet at the position
for each eye, so that when you have finished
2 Begin stuffing the head just after you have
begun decreasing, when the opening is still large
enough to do so easily. Make sure you insert enough
3 When you have finished the head, there will be
a small hole left. To sew this up, make sure you
leave a long tail of yarn for sewing. Thread the yarn
making the head, you will be able to attach the polyfill to fill the head completely. tail all around the opening with a yarn needle.
safety eyes symmetrically.
Start with
the nose
4 Now pull tightly on the thread to close the hole.

Secure the closure with a few stitches to make
sure that it does not open. You can also use this long
5 Attach the safety eyes and then sew the
muzzle onto the face by sewing with a
whipstitch (see p. 70) in the same color as
6 Using the embroidery thread, embroider a
mouth and nose onto the muzzle as shown,
or to your own design, creating an individual
tail to sew the body onto the head; if you wish to do the muzzle. personality for the teddy bear.
so, do not fasten it off.
Push stuffing
down with
crochet hook
7 Attach the head to the body using neat stitches

(mattress stitch works well—see p. 71), taking a
stitch from the body then the head alternately as
8 To stuff the limbs, use the blunt end of the
crochet hook or any long object, such as a
knitting needle, to push down the polyfill. Make
9 Attach the limbs to the body in the position
shown, in a similar way to the head. While
making sure that you attach the limbs securely so
you go around. You can use any neat stitch technique sure that the polyfill is pushed all the way to the they do not fall off, also be sure that they are not
you are comfortable with; just make sure the head is bottom. Use this technique to insert more stuffing sewn so tightly that they do not move. Sew from
fastened securely and does not flop over. and be sure that the limbs are stuffed tightly. one spot at the side of the arm or leg (rather than at
the tip) onto the body so that they are moveable.
SIZE Approx 11 x 61⁄4in (28 x 16cm)
YARN You can use any DK weight yarn
Ax1 Bx1
CROCHET HOOK F US (3.75mm) hook
NOTIONS 2 stitch markers

Yarn needle
1
⁄2in (12mm) black safety toy eyes
Brown embroidery thread and needle
Brown felt for inner ears
Polyfill
3
⁄8in- (1cm-) wide velvet ribbon
ADJUSTABLE RING: Wind the yarn twice around
your finger. Insert the hook and wrap the yarn
around it. Pull the hook back through and work a
chain. Work the first round of sts into the “ring”,
then pull the tail of yarn gently to close it, before
joining the sts into a round using a ss.
Teddy bear 133
Teddy bear
You never forget your first bear and this one is sure to become a true keepsake.
Worked in the round using adjustable rings for neatly curved paws and feet,
this project is quick and satisfying to make.
ROUND 8 *12 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * Muzzle
to end. (42sts) With yarn B, make an adjustable ring and
PROJECTS ROUND 9 *13 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
For more toy patterns to end. (45sts) ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
>> go to pages 266 and 274 Place 2 stitch markers on the next row 10 sts ROUND 2 *3 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from *
apart to mark where you will put the toy eyes. to end. (15sts)
ROUND 10 *14 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to ROUND 3 Sc in each st to end.
NOTE The teddy bear is worked in spirals. Do end. (48sts) ROUND 4 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
not join rounds, but place a marker at first ROUND 11 *15 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (18sts)
stitch of the round, moving it each round to end. (51sts) ROUNDS 56 Sc in each st to end.
mark the beginning of the next round. ROUND 12 *16 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to ROUND 7 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
end. (54sts) end. (21sts)
Pattern ROUNDS 1314 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 8 Sc in each st to end.
Follow this pattern and then refer to pages ROUND 15 *sc2tog, 7 sc; rep from * to end. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and pull
130–131 when assembling your toy. (48sts) through loop to secure. Position the muzzle
ROUND 16 *sc2tog, 6 sc; rep from * to end. and sew it onto the face. Use embroidery
Head (42sts) thread to sew the nose and mouth detail on
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 17 *sc2tog, 5 sc; rep from * to end. the muzzle. Weave in and cut off loose ends.
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) (36sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end. (12sts) ROUND 18 *sc2tog, 4 sc; rep from * to end. Body
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * (30sts) Stuff the body as you go along.
to end. (18sts) ROUND 19 *sc2tog, 3 sc; rep from * to end. With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * (24sts) work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
to end. (24sts) ROUND 20 *sc2tog, 2 sc; rep from * to end. ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
ROUND 4 *3 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * (18sts) ROUND 2 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
to end. (30sts) ROUND 21 *sc2tog, 1 sc; rep from * to end. end. (15sts)
ROUND 5 *9 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * (12sts) ROUND 3 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
to end. (33sts) Add some stuffing to the head now. end. (18sts)
ROUND 6 *10 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * ROUND 22 *sc2tog; rep from* to end. (6sts) ROUND 4 Sc in each st to end.
to end. (36sts) Put the working loop on a stitch holder and ROUND 5 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 7 *11 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * attach the toy eyes to the head in the places end. (21sts)
to end. (39sts) you marked on round 10. ROUND 6 Sc in each st to end.
Finish stuffing the head. Weave the cut yarn ROUND 7 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
through the last 6 sts, pull to close the hole at end. (24sts)
<< This bear is made with Tahki Yarns Cotton the base of the head. Weave in yarn to secure ROUND 8 Sc in each st to end.
Classic, 108yds/99m/50g, in A: Coffee (3214) and cut off any loose ends. ROUND 9 *7 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
and B: Rose beige (3222). end. (27sts)
134 Toys
6 stitches, pull the yarn to close the hole at ROUND 5 Sc in each st to end.
the top of the body. Sew the body firmly to ROUND 6 1 sc, sc2tog, 8 sc, sc2tog, 6 sc, sc2tog,
the head. Weave in and cut off any loose ends. 6 sc. (24sts)
ROUND 7 11 sc, hdc3tog, 3 hdc, hdc3tog, 4 sc.
Arms (make 2) (20sts)
Stuff the arms as you go along. ROUND 8 3 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog,
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and 1 sc, sc2tog, 3 sc. (16sts)
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) ROUND 9 8 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog, 3 sc. (14sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) ROUND 10 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * ROUND 11 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (13sts)
to end. (18sts) ROUNDS 1216 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in the next st; rep from * ROUND 17 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (12sts)
to end. (24sts) ROUNDS 1822 Sc in each st to end.
ROUNDS 46 Sc in each st to the end. ROUND 23 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (11sts)
ROUND 7 *sc2tog, 2 sc; rep from * to end. ROUNDS 2428 Sc in each st to end.
(18sts) ROUND 29 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (10sts)
ROUND 8 *sc2tog, 4 sc; rep from * to end. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and pull
The legs are worked from the feet upward. Start
(15sts) through loop to secure.
with an adjustable ring (see p. 57) and maintain even
ROUND 9 *sc2tog, 3 sc; rep from * to end. (12sts) Finish stuffing the legs firmly.
gauge as you increase the number of stitches on each
round. Stuff the legs as they evolve.
ROUNDS 1019 Sc in each st to end. Thread the cut yarn onto a wool needle and
ROUND 20 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (11sts) weave through the last 10 stitches, pull the
ROUNDS 2125 Sc in each st to end. yarn to close the hole at the top of the leg,
ROUND 10 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 26 sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (10sts) weave in yarn to secure. Position the legs
Add some stuffing to the body now. ROUNDS 2728 Sc in each st to end. carefully and sew onto the body.
ROUND 11 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and pull
end. (30sts) through loop to secure. Ears (make 2)
ROUND 12 Sc in each st to end. Finish stuffing the arm firmly. With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and
ROUND 13 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to Thread the cut yarn onto a wool needle and work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
end. (33sts) weave through the last 10 stitches, pull the ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
ROUND 14 Sc in each st to end. yarn to close the hole at the top of the arm, ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 15 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to weave in yarn to secure. end. (18sts)
end. (36sts) Position the arms carefully in place and sew ROUND 3 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 16 Sc in each st to end. them onto the body. ROUND 4 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 17 *sc2tog, 10 sc; rep from * to end. end. (24sts)
(33sts) Legs (make 2) ROUND 5 sc in each st to end.
ROUND 18 *sc2tog, 9 sc; rep from * to end. Stuff the legs as you go along. ROUND 6 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
(30sts) With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and end. (30sts)
ROUND 19 *sc2tog, 3 sc; rep from * to end. work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) ROUNDS 78 Sc in each st to end.
(24sts) ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) ROUND 9 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (29sts)
ROUND 20 *sc2tog, 2 sc; rep from * to end. ROUND 2 2 sc, 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc, 3 hdc ROUND 10 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (28sts)
(18sts) in the next st, 2 hdc, 3 hdc in the next st, 2 sc, Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure.
ROUND 21 *sc2tog, 1 sc; rep from * to end. 2 sc in the last st. (18sts) Cut two pieces of felt and stitch them inside
(12sts) ROUND 3 3 sc, 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc, 1 hdc, the ears using running stitch. Try not to allow
ROUND 22 *sc2tog; rep from * to end. (6sts) 2 hdc in the next st, 4 hdc, 2 hdc in the next the stitches to go through to the outer ear.
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail and pull st, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc. (22sts) Sew the ears onto the head. Weave in and cut
through loop to secure. ROUND 4 2 sc in the first st, 8 sc, 3 hdc in the off any loose ends. Tie a velvet ribbon around
Finish stuffing the arm. Thread the cut yarn next st, 5 hdc, 3 hdc in the next st, 6 sc. the bear’s neck.
onto a yarn needle and weave through the last (27sts)
Teddy bear 135
Felted crochet
When felted, crochet shrinks, and it is not possible to control the exact amount of shrinkage. Luckily,
there are many things you can make from felted crochet that do not require precise sizes, from pillow
covers to simple bags. Motifs cut from felt also make great brooches or decoration on other crochet.
Felting basics
If you are a beginner, avoid attempting a felted garment pattern until you have yarns. As a rule, the longer the fibers of a yarn, the more easily they felt. A mixed
gained some experience with felting smaller items. Before taking the plunge fiber yarn with at least 50 percent wool or feltable animal fiber will felt to varying
into a specific project, read all about the felting basics below and discover some degrees, and it is best to try a test swatch first to see if a yarn felts, since some
helpful tips. The best yarns for felted crochet are 100 percent wool yarns and wools have been treated to prevent felting. Always avoid wool yarns marked
other animal fiber yarns that have not been spun too tightly, such as roving “machine washable,” since these will not felt.
Preparing a swatch for test-felting

By testing a swatch of your yarn, you can determine how much it will shrink
when felted. But keep in mind that felting is not an exact science because of
all these variables—washing machine agitation, water temperature, detergent
type, and yarn fiber content, spin, and color.
Work a swatch in single crochet that is approximately 8in (20cm) square; Yellow markers measure
accurate shrinkage measurements cannot be obtained with smaller swatches the horizontal shrinkage
because they shrink more than is usual. after felting
To measure the gauge before and after felting, tie yarn markers around
stitches in the crochet using a different-colored yarn, which preferably does not
felt. Place them about 20 stitches apart on one row horizontally and about 20
rows apart vertically, making a note of how many stitches are in between. You Red markers measure
then have obvious markers once the piece has been felted, so that you can take the vertical shrinkage
after felting
a measurement of distance between stitches and rows. Since you know the
number of rows and stitches within those markers, you can calculate the gauge
per in/cm and therefore the amount that your swatch has shrunk.
Prepare a swatch as explained above, then put it in your washing machine
and add in a large hand towel. (The towel increases the agitation in the water
to enable the felting process and should always be put in with your felting.)
Add half the amount of laundry detergent normally used for a full load. Use
a water temperature of warm for yarn that contains any mohair, and hot for Tips for felting
100 percent wool yarns.
• If you are trying out felting for the first time, make several test swatches
Wash the sample using the full washing cycle and the full spin for that cycle.
in different weights of yarn and felt them together in the same washing-
Tug the washed swatch gently in both directions, then lay it right-side up on
machine load, so you can get a feel for the different thicknesses of
your ironing board and pat it into a rectangular shape.
crocheted felt.
Leave it to dry completely—the shrinkage is only complete when the felt
• Do not tightly crochet your projects before felting because they will felt
is totally dry. If necessary, do more tests with new swatches, altering the
better with more room to move within the stitches, since agitation is the
temperature or the length of the wash cycle. Keep detailed records of your
most important part of creating a felted item.
testing, listing gauge, hook size, sizes of pre-felted and felted swatch,
• When using highly contrasting colors in the same piece of crochet or
machine setting, and the type and amount of detergent.
putting them in the same felting load, put a color catcher in the washing
machine. This absorbs loose dye and will prevent colors from running.
• Wool will fade slightly when felted, due to the high temperatures and the
detergent, but this adds an attractive quality to the felt.
• Clean your washing machine after a felting load by wiping it out with a
damp cloth to remove any stray fibers.
Felted crochet 137
Before and after felting

Crochet changes character when it is felted, softening and shrinking—sometimes more
widthwise than lengthwise, but it depends on the yarn. Integrated decorative effects can
be achieved with crocheted stripes or embroidery worked onto the crochet prior to felting.
Single crochet swatches

You can see that the felted swatch is considerably
smaller than the unfelted, but when compared to
the half double swatch below, it is not as completely
felted. You can still see the stitches quite clearly.
This happens for two reasons: first, a single crochet
is a small, tight stitch, so the yarn within the fabric
has very little room to move and create the desired
amount of friction to aid felting. Second, the sample
is striped, and different colors have a bearing on
felting. Two yarns of different colors may felt
slightly differently, due to the diverse chemical
makeup in the dyes, and because the yarn might
have already felted slightly during the dye process.
Single crochet swatch before felting Single crochet swatch after felting
Width = 8in (20cm); Width = 61⁄2in (16.5cm);
Length = 8in (20cm) Length = 71⁄4in (18.5cm)
Half double swatches

The half double stitch is a looser, taller stitch, with
more gaps in the fabric than a single crochet stitch.
This has resulted in a much more tightly felted fabric
than the single crochet test swatch (above), since
the yarn has more room to create the desired
amount of friction. You can work out the amount that
your final project will felt from this test, by working
out the ratio of shrinkage in the measurements.
Remember that if your project is made of
different pieces sewn together, you must do this
first since each piece will felt slightly differently and
unevenly—this can be seen in the irregular edges
at the bottom of the single crochet felted swatch.
Also, the sewing up of the pieces might affect the
felting. Felting is always an unknown quantity, and
the test swatching is purely for a guide to gauge. Half double crochet swatch before felting Half double crochet swatch after felting
Width = 8in (20cm); Width = 61⁄4in (16cm);
Length = 8in (20cm) Length = 63⁄4in (17cm)
Project patterns
Blankets
and pillows
SIZE Approx 311⁄2 x 471⁄4 (351⁄2 x 67:391⁄2 x 743⁄4)in/

80 x 120 (90 x 170:100 x190)cm
YARN Use any DK yarn, wool or acrylic, or a mix

will work well, or use scraps of DK
Ax4 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1
Fx1 Gx1 Hx1 Ix1 Jx1
Kx1 Lx1
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle
PUFF: (Yo, insert hook into st, yo and pull through
loop, drawing it up to height of hdc) 4 times, 9 loops
on hook, yo and pull through all loops on hook.
POPCORN: See p. 79
Flower blanket 143
Flower blanket
This vibrant update of the vintage-inspired flower blanket is crocheted together,
not sewn, so it looks great from both sides without any ugly seams. This blanket
is an ideal project for using up scraps of yarn.
dc) all into same sp, *(2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next Finishing
3-ch sp twice, (2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) into next 3-ch With the border shade, attach yarn to any
PROJECTS sp; rep from * twice more, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into corner of blanket.
For more flower patterns next 3-ch sp twice, join round with a ss. Ch 3, 4 dc into same corner sp, continue
>> go to pages 80 and 148 To join the next flower to the first finished around the whole blanket working (2 dc, 1 ch,
motif, work border around the next flower 2 dc) into every 1-ch sp, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into
Flower motifs as follows: each joining sp of two motifs and 5 dc into
ROUND 1 With any contrast shade, work 3 ch With the border shade, join yarn to any 3-ch each corner sp. Join round with a ss.
to count as first dc, work 1 dc into third ch sp. 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) all into same sp, Weave in all ends and block very lightly to
from hook, then work 10 further dc into same (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next 3-ch sp twice, (2 dc, shape, being careful not to flatten the 3-D
chain. Join round with a ss. 1 ch) into next 3-ch sp, work a ss into the nature of the flower motifs.
Change color. central ch of any 3-ch corner sp of first motif
ROUND 2 Ch 2, work 1 puff into first dc, 1 ch, to join the corners, 1 ch, 2 dc back into
*1 puff, 1 ch; rep from * to end of round, join original 3-ch sp of second motif. *2 dc into
round with a ss. Change color. next 3-ch sp, ss into next 1-ch sp of first
ROUND 3 Ch 3, work popcorn into bottom of motif, 2 dc back into original 3-ch sp of
chain, 3 ch, *work popcorn into next 1-ch sp, second motif; rep from * once more, (2 dc,
3 ch; rep from * to end of round, join round 1 ch) into next 3-ch sp, ss into central ch of
with a ss. next corner ch of first motif, 1 ch, 2 dc back
Make enough flower motifs in the same way into original 3-ch sp of second motif, (2 dc,
for the desired size of blanket. For a small 1 ch, 2 dc) into next 3-ch sp twice, (2 dc, 3 ch,
blanket, work 96 flowers; for a medium 2 dc) into next 3-ch sp, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into
blanket, work 153 flowers; for a large blanket next 3-ch sp twice, join round with a ss.
work 190 flowers. Work all following motifs from first row in
the same way as this, joining each subsequent
Joining the motifs flower to the previous motif along one side.
With the border shade, work a final row On the second row of motifs, join first flower
around one flower motif as follows: of the row to the motif below in the same way
Join yarn to any 3-ch sp. 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch, 2 as previously stated. For all following motifs, Each flower motif measures approx 3in (8cm) in
join along two sides to the motifs immediately diameter and makes a quick project to work up when
adjacent and below it in the same way as before. time is short. If you have any left over, sew pin backs
<< The border is made with Berroco Comfort, For a small blanket arrange 8 motifs wide onto them and turn them into pins.
180yds/165m/50g, in A: Chalk (2700). The flower
by 12 motifs long. For a medium blanket,
motifs are made with B: Navy blue (2763), C: Turquoise
(2733), D: Seedling (2740), E: Limone (2706), F:
arrange 9 motifs wide by 17 motifs long. For
Sunshine (2719), G: Rosebud (2723), H: Agean sea a large blanket, arrange 10 motifs wide by
(2753), I: Spruce (2762), J: Purple (2722), K: True red 19 motifs long.
(2751), and L: Spanish brown (2727).
144 Blankets and pillows
Lap blanket
This warm and cozy blanket works up surprisingly quickly thanks to the super
bulky yarn and large hook. The tweed stitch is simply composed of single crochet
and chain stitch, creating a luxurious texture with minimal effort.
Pattern
With yarn A, work 81 ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 sc into second ch from hook, (1 ch,
For more single crochet patterns skip 1 ch, sc in next ch) to end.
>> go to pages 34 and 292 ROW 2 Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in ch sp, (1 ch,
1 sc into ch sp) to end, sc into last sc.
ROW 3 Ch 1, sc in first sc, (1 ch, sc into ch
Essential information sp) to last ch sp, skip next sc, sc in last sc.
Rep last two rows until work measures
approximately 471⁄4in (120cm) long,
SIZE Approx 381⁄2 x 471⁄4in (98 x 120cm) or desired length. Fasten off yarn.
YARN Any super bulky weight wool or

Finishing
acrylic yarn will substitute. Try alpaca for
Block blanket lightly.
a heavyweight blanket
Attach yarn B to any point around edge
and work evenly in sc around entire edge,
working 3 sc into each corner. Join round
Ax8 Bx2 with a ss, but do not turn; instead, work
1 row in crab stitch.
CROCHET HOOK N/15 US (10mm) hook Fasten off yarn, weave in ends, and block
edge lightly.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
Adding a trim around the blanket will give your

project a professional finish, with an even edge around >> This blanket is made with Lion Brand Wool Ease
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS all sides. See pp. 174 and 240 for more projects with Thick & Quick, 49yds/45m/50g, in A: Fisherman (099)
CRAB STITCH: Means simply working sc in crab stitch edging. and B: Cranberry (138).
reverse, working round the row, or round in this

case, from left to right, instead of right to left.
After completing a row of sc, do not turn the
work around; work 1 ch, *insert the hook into the
next stitch to the right, not in the stitch you just
completed, but the next one. Draw a loop
through. Yo as normal and pull through both
loops on the hook; rep from * across row.
146 Blankets and cushions
Colorful granny blanket

Reminiscent of a rainbow, this blanket uses the bright tones of the yarn to great
effect. The join-as-you-go technique, using the white yarn, creates a pretty border
and saves time, which is great when creating a large item such as this.
Pattern Continue joining the first row of 7 squares

PROJECTS Work 4 ch, join with a ss to form a ring. in the same way, then join each square of the
For more blanket patterns ROUND 1 Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, next row to the top of the first in the same
>> go to pages 142, 144, and 148 3 ch, *3 dc in ring, 3 ch; rep from * twice. way; you will need to join along two sides
Join round with ss to top of first ch. of some squares from this row.
ROUND 2 Ss to next corner sp, 3 ch, (1 dc, 3 ch,
Essential information 2 dc) into corner sp, 3 dc, *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) Edging
into next corner sp, 3 dc; rep from * to end of Join yarn G to any corner space.
round. Join round with ss to top of first ch. Work 1 row of doubles all around, working (2
SIZE Approx 71 x 431⁄2in (180 x 110cm) ROUND 3 Ss to next corner sp, 3 ch, (1 dc, dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) into the corner spaces as before.
3 ch, 2 dc) into corner sp, 1 dc into each dc to
YARN Any weight or fiber content will work here.
next corner sp, *(2 dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) into next
Try wool for a warmer blanket. Change the hook
corner sp, 1 dc into each dc to next corner sp;
to suit the yarn and remember that the blanket
rep from * to end of round. Join round with
may come out a different size or texture
ss to top of first ch.
Rep last round twice.
Fasten off yarn.
Make 14 squares of each color; 84 squares
Ax4 Bx4 Cx4 Dx4
in total. Block all pieces lightly.
Joining
Ex4 Fx4 Gx9 Arrange each set of colors in order as in the
photograph. Attach yarn G to corner sp of first
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook square and complete next round as round 3.
Take next square and work round 2 sides as
NOTIONS Yarn needle
per round 3, when you get to the corner sp, Turn to pages 102–106 for more information about
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential work 2 dc, 1 ch into corner, then attach the classic granny square, plus additional patterns for
square 2 to square 1 with a ss to the different squares, triangles, and other motifs.
corresponding corner, 1 ch, 2 dc into corner,

ss to the corresponding st of square 1, then
*work 3 sts along the next side as usual, ss to
the corresponding st of square 1; rep from * to
>> This blanket is made with Classic Elite Wool
next corner, 2 dc, 1 ch into corner, join to the
Bamboo DK, 118ds/108m/50g, in A: True blue (1692),
corresponding corner ch, then work along the B: Treasure (1660), C: Artichoke green (1672),
remaining side as normal without a join. Two D: Solid gold (1680), E: Watermelon (1689),
squares are joined. F: Mulberry (1634), and G: White (1616).
Baby blanket
This charming throw is made using the “join-as-you-go” method, so that
you don’t have all the squares to join at the end.
SLIP STITCH JOIN FOR JOIN-AS-YOU-GO: For first square only
Holding one square, which has been completed ROUND 3 With a third color, join new color
PROJECTS up to and including round 2, to a complete square working between the posts/stitch of the
For more granny square patterns (up to and including round 3) to join as you go, stitches of round 2 throughout. Ch 3 (counts
>> go to pages 146 and 154 you replace the 3-ch corner sp with 1 ch, 1 ss join, as a double), 2 dc into same place. Ch 3 (corner
1 ch, after making the first cluster for that corner. sp), 3 dc into same place (forms a corner).
Replace the 1-ch sp between clusters along the *Ch 1, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp.
Essential information side with 1 ss join. Ch 1, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc
TO COMPLETE THE STITCH: Insert the hook into into next sp. Repeat from *2 times, ch 1, skip
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Easy/Intermediate
the sp (either 3-ch corner sp or 1-ch edge sp), 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ch, join
SIZE Approx 361⁄4 x 42in (92 x 107cm) yo, bring yarn from back of ch sp to the front, with a ss into third ch of 3 ch.
and also through the loop on the hook. Fasten off, weave in ends.
YARN You can use any DK wool or wool-mix yarn
SLIP STITCH JOIN: Put hook into stitch, yo,
to achieve a similar effect
bring yarn through stitch, and loop on hook. For all other squares
Hold unfinished square against a finished
(to round 3) square, RS facing.
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex3
Pattern
Make 168 squares in total for a blanket of When joining to 1 completed square
the same size as the one shown here. ROUND 3 When joining to 1 completed square,
with your third color choice join new color,
Fx1 Gx1 Hx1 Ix1 J x1 For all squares work between the posts/stitch of the stitches
FOUNDATION With your choice of color, 4 ch, of round 2 throughout. Ch 3 (counts as a
ss into first st to form a ring. double), 2 dc into same place. Ch 1, 1 ss join
ROUND 1 Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 11 dc into ring. into 3-ch corner sp of completed square,
Kx1 Lx1 Mx1
Join with a ss to third ch of 3 ch. Fasten off. 1 ch, 3 dc into same place (forms a corner).
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook (12sts) 1 ss join into next 1-ch sp of completed
ROUND 2 With a second color, join new color square, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next
working between the posts/stitch of the sp. 1 ss join into next 1-ch sp of completed
NOTIONS Yarn needle stitches of round 1 throughout. Ch 3 (counts square, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next
as a double) and 1 dc into same sp between sp, 1 ch, 1 ss join into 3-ch corner sp of
posts, 2 dc in each sp to end. Join with a ss completed square, 1 ch, 3 dc into same sp.
WORKING BETWEEN POSTS/STITCHES: Rather
to third ch of 3 ch. *Ch 1, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp,
than inserting your hook under the top “V” of
Fasten off. (24sts)
the stitch of the previous round (in this case, a
double) you will insert your hook underneath the >> This blanket is made with Rowan Pure Wool DK,
actual stitch and therefore between the posts of 137yds/125m/50g, in A: Pier (006), B: Cypress (007),
the stitches of the previous round. This is done so C: Marine (008), D: Indigo (010), E: Enamel (013),
that the “petals” will open up and separate once F: Avocado (019), G: Tea rose (025), H: Hyacinth (026),
I: Kiss (036), J: Port (037), K: Dahlia (042), L: Gold (051),
the square is complete.
and M: Orchid (052).
Plan the color scheme for your blanket before
buying any yarn. This project contains a vast array of
colors and you need to make sure that the shades
work together before buying expensive balls of yarn.
Make a color sketch to suit your palette and then
crochet a few squares as samples.
Baby blanket 151
1 ch, skip 3 dc from round 2, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc throughout. Ch 3 (counts as a double), 2 dc

into next sp. Repeat from * once. Ch 1, skip into same place. Ch 1, 1 ss join into 3-ch
3 sts from round 2, 3 dc into next sp, 1 ch, corner sp of completed square above, 1 ch,
join with a ss into third ch of 3 ch. 3 dc into same place (forms a corner). 1 ss join
Fasten off, weave in ends. into next 1-ch sp of completed square above,
skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp,
When joining to 2 squares 1 ss join into next 1-ch sp of completed square
Hold the unfinished square against the above, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp,
finished squares, RS facing (one square above, 1 ss join into 3-ch corner sp of completed
one square to the left of that square). square above, 1 ss join into 3-ch corner sp
ROUND 3 Join new color and work between the of completed square to top left, 1 ss join into
posts/stitch of the stitches of round 3-ch corner sp of completed square to left,
2 throughout. Ch 3 (counts as a double), 2 dc 3 dc in same sp. 1 ss join into next 1-ch sp
into same place. Ch 1, 1 ss join into 3-ch of completed square to left, skip 3 sts from
corner sp of completed square above, 1 ch, round 2, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ss join into next
3 dc into same place (forms a corner). 1 ss join 1-ch sp of completed square to left, skip 3 dc
into next 1-ch sp of completed square above, from round 2, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ch, 1 ss join
skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ss into 3-ch corner sp of completed square to
join into next 1-ch sp of completed square left, 1 ch, 3 dc into same sp. Ch 1, skip 3 sts
above, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc in next sp, from round 2, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ch, skip 3 sts
1 ss join into 3-ch corner sp of completed from round 2, 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc in next sp, 1 ch, Each granny square, or motif, starts with a
square above, 1 ss join into 3-ch corner sp of skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc into next sp, foundation ring. Turn to page 26 for more information
completed square to top left, 1 ch, 3 dc in 1 ch, join with a ss into third ch of 3 ch. about how to use slip stitches to form a foundation ring.
same sp. *Ch 1, skip 3 sts from round 2, 3 dc Fasten off and weave in ends.
in next sp, 1 ch, skip 3 dc from round 2, 3 dc,
3 ch, 3 dc into next sp. Repeat from * once. Edging
Ch 1, skip 3 st from round 2, 3 dc into next sp, ROW 1 With yarn B, or your choice of color,
1 ch, join with a ss into third ch of 3 ch. join in any 3-ch corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc, 3 ch,
Fasten off, weave in ends. 3 dc. 1 dc in each dc along each edge, 1 dc in
each 1-ch sp and 2 dc into each 3-ch corner sp
When joining to 3 completed squares from square below. 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc in each
Hold the unfinished square against the 3-ch corner sp. Join with a ss and fasten off.
finished squares, RS facing (one square above, ROW 2 With yarn A, join in any 3-ch corner sp.
one square to the left of that square, one Ch 3, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc. 1 dc in each dc along
square to the left of this square). each edge. 3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc in each 3-ch corner
ROUND 3 Join new color and work between sp. Join with a ss and fasten off.
the posts/stitch of the stitches of round 2
Practise joining motif TOP

s w it
h so
me sa
mple sq u a r
e s. TIP
Chevron pillow 153
Chevron pillow
Working chevrons in stripes produces a striking fabric with little effort.
Regular shaping creates the peaks and troughs, while the crisp cotton
makes for well-defined zigzags.
Pattern
PROJECTS With yarn A, work 73 ch.
For more striped patterns ROW 1 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 sc in
>> go to pages 174, 206, and 246 each ch to end. Turn. (72sts)
ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc into same st, 7 sc, skip next
2 sc, 7 sc, *2 sc in each of next 2 sts, 7 sc, skip
Essential information next 2 sc, 7 sc; rep from * to last st, 2 sc in last
st. Turn.
Row 2 forms pattern, rep for desired length
SIZE Approx 133⁄4 x 133⁄4in (35 x 35cm) of fabric, changing color after every 4 rows
in this order:
YARN Any DK yarn will substitute here. This uses
Yarn A
cotton, but try a wool mix as an alternative
Yarn B
Yarn C
When fabric measures approx 30in (75cm),
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 ending with four rows of yarn A, fasten off
yarn and weave in ends.
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook To ensure that the crochet doesn’t stretch
Finishing after the pillow form is inserted, make a couple of
NOTIONS Yarn needle
Block piece lightly to shape. whipstitches under the buttons to join the two white
14in (35cm) square pillow form zigzags on the flap and the backing of the pillow cover.
Wrap piece around pillow form, with an
2 black buttons
overlap halfway down the back of the pad.
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential Make sure that the starting edge of the piece
is on top, and is overlapping the bottom of
the piece. Sew up bottom two side seams of
the pillow, then sew down the top two side
seams, overlapping the bottom seam.
Fasten the opening of the pillow by sewing
buttons on the bottom edge of the piece,
<< This pillow is made with Casacade Yarns Ultra corresponding to the skipped sc sts next
Pima DK, 220yds/201m/50g, in A: White (3728), to the end of each point. These will form
B: Lipstick red (3755), and C: True black (3754). the buttonholes.
Granny pillow
This chic update on the humble granny square is quick to make but has high
impact. The pattern produces a stylish pillow that is simple even for beginners.
Pattern (make 2) Continue working each round in color

Always work with RS facing. sequence as follows, working as round 4;
PROJECTS With yarn A, 4 ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. each round will have 1 extra 3 dc in ch sp
For more granny square patterns ROUND 1 Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), *3 dc worked on each side of the square, corners
>> go to pages 234 and 288 into ring, 1 ch, rep from * twice, 3 dc into remain the same.
ring, join with a ss to third of 4 ch. ROUNDS 5 AND 6 Yarn C.
Fasten off A. ROUND 7 Yarn A.
Essential information ROUND 2 Join B into any ch sp, 3 ch (counts as ROUNDS 8 AND 9 Yarn C.
first dc), 2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in same ch sp, 1 ch, ROUND 10 Yarn B.
*3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep from * ROUNDS 11 AND 12 Yarn C.
SIZE 16in (40cm) square twice, join with a ss in top of initial 3 ch. ROUND 13 Yarn D.
Fasten off B. ROUND 14 Yarn C.
YARN You can substitute any DK weight yarn for
ROUND 3 Join C into any corner ch sp, 3 ch ROUND 15 Yarn A.
this project
(counts as first dc), 2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in same ch Where two rounds are worked consecutively
sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, *3 dc, 2 ch, in C, you may prefer to ss to next corner space
3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 instead of fastening off and rejoining yarn.
Ax2 Bx2 Cx4 Dx2 ch; rep from * twice, join with a ss in top of Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
initial 3 ch. Fasten off C.
CROCHET HOOK F/5 US (3.75mm) hook ROUND 4 Join D into any corner ch sp, 3 ch Finishing
(counts as first dc), 2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in ch sp, 1 Press front and back according to ball band
NOTIONS Yarn needle
ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, instructions. Place front and back with wrong
16 x 16in 40 x 40cm) pillow form
1 ch, *3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc sides together, rejoin A to top left corner
GAUGE Rounds 1–3 measure 3in (8cm) in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch; space, and working through front and back,
rep from * twice, join with a ss in top of initial join on three sides as follows: 1 sc in ch sp,
3 ch. Fasten off D. *1 sc in top of each of next 3 dc, 1 sc in ch sp;
rep from * to corner, 3 sc in corner ch sp; rep
The open nature of this giant from * to next corner sp, 3 sc in corner ch sp;
granny square means that the rep from * to top right-hand corner. Leaving
pillow form will show through the top of the pillow open, insert pillow form
the crochet fabric. The white
and close by continuing in sc to first st,
pillow form shown here works
ss into top of first sc.
well because the main color is
white. However, if you prefer
to make your pillow in different
shades, you may wish to choose
a colored insert or cover the
pillow form before placing it
>> This pillow is made with Debbie Bliss Cotton
inside the crocheted cover.
DK, 92yds/84m/50g, in A: Fuchsia (58), B: Aqua
(61), C: Cream (02), and D: Periwinkle (62).
Owl pillow 157
Owl pillow
This colorful toy owl is made in Tunisian Simple stitch. You can practice
the technique, which uses a long crochet hook, on a sample square before
attempting the shaping used for this project.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS (SEE P.124) Front
TSS: Tunisian Simple stitch: Chain any number to ROW 1 With the Tunisian hook and yarn A,
PROJECTS length desired. 25 ch; pick up the loops (25 loops on hook),
For another Tunisian stitch pattern FOUNDATION ROW: work return pass.
>> go to page 124 Forward pass: Insert hook into first ch sp from ROW 2 Pick up a st (2 loops on the hook) inc,
hook. Yo and pull up a loop. *Insert into next, yo pick up the next 21 st, inc, pick up last 2 st
and pull up a loop. Repeat from * keeping all loops (27 loops on hook). Return pass.
Essential information on hook. ROW 3 As row 2, inc between the second and
Return pass: Yo and pull back through one loop. third st, and between third and second st at
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Difficult
* Yo and pull through two loops. Repeat from * the other end (29 loops). Return pass.
SIZE 15 x 121⁄4in (38 x 31cm) until one loop remains on hook. ROW 4 As row 2. (31 loops)
ROWS: ROW 5 As row 2. (33 loops)
YARN You can use any DK weight yarn for a
Forward pass: Working forward again, *insert hook ROW 6 START WINGS Divid yarn C in half so you
similar look to this project
from side to side under next vertical bar (behind have two balls of yarn C. Take yarn A off the
front bar and in front of back bar), yo and draw up hook, with yarn C make a slip knot and 3 ch,
a loop. Repeat from * to last, keeping all loops on pick up 2 loops. (3 loops of yarn C on hook)
hook. Pull up a loop from the last st. pick up the loop in yarn A, pick up the rest of
Ax3 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1
Return pass: Yo and pull back through one loop. the row in yarn A. In yarn C, make a slip knot
* Yo and pull through two loops. Repeat from and 3 ch, pick up 2 st. (3 yarn C sts on hook).
* until one loop remains on hook. (3C, 33A, 3C = 39 sts). Return pass.
E small amount F small amount Repeat the second row. In the pattern, the pickup See “tying in colors” instructions (left) for this
and takeoff are written as one row. and subsequent rows when taking off loops.
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) and H/8 US INCREASE: On the forward pass, put your hook ROW 7 With yarn C, pick up 3 loops (4 loops
(5mm) hook I/9 US (5mm) Tunisian hook under the horizontal bar between the normal on hook), pick up 31 loops of A, and 4 in C
vertical pickup points. Yo, and pull the new loop (4C, 31A, 4C = 39 sts). Work return pass in
NOTIONS Yarn needle
on the hook, inc complete. color sequence from now on.
20in (50cm) cotton fabric suitable
DECREASE: On the forward pass, put your hook ROW 8 With yarn C, pick up a loop, inc, pick
for a pillow form
under two vertical loops, yo, and pull through up 2 more loops in C, 31 in A, 2 in C, inc,
Approx 8oz (220g) polyfill
both loops, dec complete. pick up last 2 loops (5C, 31A, 5C = 41 sts).
GAUGE 17 sts x 16 rows to 4in (10cm) TYING IN COLORS: This is done on the return pass Fasten off A.
of the row. When you have the last loop ROW 9 Pick up so you have 6C on the hook,
of yarn A on the hook, put your yarn over color 29D and 6C. (41sts)
B so the yarns are twisted, then take off as ROW 10 Inc between second and third st, and
normal in B. third and second st at the other end. Pick up
<< This owl is made with Rowan Handknit Cotton,
93yds/85m/50g, in A: Linen (205), B: Ecru (251), so you have 7C, 29D, and 7C. (43sts)
C: Raspberry (356), D: Blue John (365), E: Ochre (349), ROW 11 Pick up 8C, 27D, and 8C. (43sts)
and F: Black (252). ROW 12 Inc as row 10, 10C, 25A, 10C. (45sts)
From now on you will be given the color last C st, A5, B31, A5. (41sts)
sequence needed on the hook for each row, ROW 41 Dec either end, A2, B35, A2.
and inc as row 10. Fasten off A. (39sts)
ROW 13 C10, A25, C10. (45sts) ROW 42 Put your hook under the edge A loop
ROW 14 Inc row C12, A23, C12. (47sts) and pull B loop through, dec, pick up 33 loops
ROW 15 Inc row C13, A23, C13. Fasten off A. in B, dec, pick up last loop. (37sts)
(49sts) ROW 43 Dec either end. (35sts)
ROW 16 C13, D23, and C13. (49sts) ROW 44 Dec either end. (33sts)
ROW 17 C13, D23, and C13. (49sts) ROW 45 Dec either end. (31sts)
ROW 18 Inc row C14, D23, C14. Fasten off D. ROW 46 Dec either end. (29sts)
(51sts) ROWS 4753 TSS. (29sts)
ROW 19 C14, A23, C14. (51sts) ROW 54 Inc either end. (31sts)
ROW 20 C14, A23, C14. (51sts) ROW 55 Inc either end. (33sts)
ROW 21 Inc row C15, A23, C15. (53sts) ROW 56 START EARS Pick up 12 st (13 loops
ROW 22 C15, A23, C15. Fasten off A. (53sts) on hook). Return pass. (13sts)
ROW 23 C15, D23, C15. (53sts) ROW 57 Pick up 7 loops (8 loops on hook).
ROW 24 As row 23. Return pass. Neat stripes in blue and oatmeal represent
ROW 25 C14, D25, C14. Fasten off D. (53sts) ROWS 5863 Pick up one less st each row this owl’s chest plumage. For more information on
ROW 26 C13, A27, C13. (53sts) (2 sts left on row 63). changing yarn color, turn to page 39; for more
ROW 27 C13, A27, C13. (53sts) Change to H/8 US (5mm) hook and, putting colorwork techniques, refer to pages 118–121.
ROW 28 C13, A27, C13. (53sts) hook under vertical bars, work in ss down the
ROW 29 C12, A29, C12. Fasten off A. (53sts) ear and across the head until there are 12 sts left
ROW 30 C12, D29, C12. (53sts) on row 56. Change back to Tunisian hook and first ch, fasten off with an invisible join,
ROW 31 C12, D29, C12. (53sts) pick up the rest of the row (12sts). Return pass. leaving a 6in (15cm) tail for sewing onto the
ROW 32 Start dec at outer edges, (see “decrease” ROW 57 Ss across 4 loops, pick up so you have face. Pull up the tail so there is no hole in the
instructions, p.157). The end of the row dec is 8 loops on the hook. Return pass. center of the eye and sew firmly. With yarn B,
done 3 sts from the end, then pick up the last ROWS 5863 Work a dec at the beginning of add a V shape in the center of each eye.
st as usual. In C pick up first st, dec, pick up each row. Fasten off B. Weave in all ends.
8 more sts in C, 31 in D, 8 in C, dec, pick up Beak
last st. (C10, D31, C10 = 51 sts). Fasten off D. Back (work completely in A) With yarn E and G/6 US (4mm) hook.
ROW 33 C10, A31, C10. (51sts) ROWS 15 As front. ROW 1 Make a slip knot and 2 ch, sc in the first
ROW 34 Dec either end as before, C8, A33, C8. ROW 6 Ch 3, pick up 2 loops, then 33 loops ch turn. (1 sc)
(49sts) from body, with a spare length of A, 3 ch, ROW 2 Ch 1, 2 sc in sc. (2sts)
ROW 35 C8, A33, C8. (49sts) pick up these loops (39 loops on the hook). ROW 3 Ch 1, 2 sc in the first sc, sc in the
ROW 36 You will now be starting the head. Dec Return pass. next sc. (3sts)
either end. C6, A10, B15, (start with a second ROWS 738 Work as for front, inc and dec ROW 4 Ch 1, 2 sc in the first sc, sc in next
ball of A) A10, C6. (47sts) where stated. You will have the total number 2 sts. (4sts)
ROW 37 C5, A9, B19, A9, C5. (47sts) of loops on the hook for each row. NEXT ROW Working down the side of the
ROW 38 Dec either end C3, A8, B23, A8, C3. ROW 39 Dec either end, work return pass as triangle, Ch 1, 5 sc down the first side,
(45sts) normal. (43sts) 2 ch, 5 sc down the second side, 1 ch, sc
ROW 39 Dec either end C2, A6, B27, A6, C2. ROW 40 Dec either end. (41sts) in each sc. (14 sc)
(43sts) ROW 41 Dec either end. (39sts) Fasten off with an invisible join leaving an 8in
Return pass: you will also be working dec on ROW 42 Dec either end. (37sts) (20cm) tail for sewing the beak to the face.
this part of the row. Yo, and pull through 2 ROWS 4363 As front, fasten off, weave in ends. Sew the eyes and the beak to the head.
loops, take off in the normal manner until you
have 3 loops on the hook, yo and in C pull Eyes (make 2) Feet (make 2)
through all 3 loops. Fasten off C. (41sts) With yarn F and G/6 US (4mm) hook, make With yarn B and G/6 US (4mm) hook.
ROW 40 With yarn A, pull a loop through the a slip knot from the tail, 3 ch, 12 dc into the ROW 1 Make a slip knot and 7 ch, sc in second
Owl pillow 159
ch from the hook, sc in the rest of the ch.

Turn. (6 sc)
ROW 2 Ch 1, 2 sc in the first sc, sc in the next 4
sts, 2 sc in the last sc. Turn. (6sts)
ROW 3 Ch 3, dc in the same st, dc in the next
2 sts, 2 dc in each of the next 2 sts, dc in the
next 2 sts, 2 dc in the last st. (12sts)
ROW 4 FIRST CLAW Ch 2, dc in the same st, dc
in next 2 sts, turn. (3sts)
ROW 5 Ch 2, dc dec, fasten off.
2ND CLAW Join yarn to next st on row 3.
ROW 4 Ch 3, dc dec twice, dc in the next st,
turn. (3sts)
3RD CLAW Join yarn to the next st on row 3.
ROW 4 Ch 3, dc in next st, 2 dc in top of 3 ch,
turn. (3sts)
DC ROUND CLAW Start at foundation ch, work
10 sc up the first side, 2 ch, 5 sc down second
side, ss into next st.
MIDDLE CLAW Sc 6 up the first side, 2 ch, 6 sc
down other side, ss into next st.
3RD CLAW Sc 5 up first side, 2 ch, 10 sc down
second side, 1 ch, sc along foundation ch, ss
into first sc, fasten off leaving a 6in (15cm)
tail for sewing to the body.
Making the pillow form

Using the front of the owl as a guide, draw
around the owl, cut out the template 1⁄2in
(1cm) larger than the outline. Cut two pieces
of material to the correct shape and sew
together, stuffing the pillow before you sew
the bottom closed.
The dense effect of Tunisian Simple stitch makes
Finishing this owl appear very neat and compact, with his raspberry
pink wings folded into his body. His feet are worked in
With H/8 US (5mm) hook and the
regular crochet stitches and sewn on.
appropriate color, put the wrong sides of the
owl together with the front facing you, and
starting at the bottom of the wing, sc all
around, putting in the pillow form before you
sc the bottom of the pillow. Sew feet to the
bottom of the pillow.
Home
and gifts
SIZE Tall: 23⁄4 x 4in (7 x 10cm)

Small: 21⁄2 x 11⁄2in (6.5 x 4cm)
Wide: 43⁄4 x 23⁄4in (12 x 7cm)
YARN Use colored string or any thick plant fiber,

such as linen or cotton, for a non-fluffy look
Ax3 Bx3
CROCHET HOOK H-8 US (5mm) hook

Yarn needle
GAUGE Make sure that gauge is tight so you

create a 3-D pot that does not sag
Colorful storage pots 163
Desktop storage pots

An ideal project for beginners, these colorful and practical storage pots are quick
and easy to make and can be used for storing anything from pens and stationery
to jewelry. The pots are worked in a spiral and vary in size.
NOTE Place a stitch marker in the first stitch Wide pot
of each round, moving the marker up as each With yarn B, work as for tall pot to end
PROJECTS round is completed. of round 4.
For more storage projects ROUND 5 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts;
>> go to pages 164 and 166 Tall pot rep from * to end. (36sts)
With yarn A, work 2 ch, 6 sc in second ROUND 6 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts;
ch from hook. rep from * to end. (42sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc in each st. (12sts) ROUND 7 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts;
ROUND 2 *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep rep from * to end. (48sts)
from * to end. (18sts) ROUND 8 Working in back loops only, sc in
ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; each st to end.
rep from * to end. (24sts) Continue working even rounds through both
ROUND 4 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; loops (1 sc in each st to end) for 4 rounds.
rep from * to end. (30sts) With yarn A, work even rounds for 4 rounds
ROUND 5 Working in back loops only, sc in or until work reaches desired height.
each st to end. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Continue working even rounds through
both loops (1 sc in each st to end) until piece
measures 4in (10cm) from round 5. With
yarn B, work even rounds for 3 rounds or
until work reaches desired height.
Fasten off, weave in ends.
For double strength, each storage pot is made rigid
by working with double strands of yarn. When your pot
Small pot
has reached the diameter you require, begin working With yarn B, work as for tall pot to end
upward and end at your preferred height. of round 5.
Continue working even rounds through
both loops (1 sc in each st to end) until
<< These pots are made with Shibui Knits Linen, piece measures 2in (5cm) from round 5,
246yds/225m/50g, in A: Cascade (2033) and or desired height.
B: Lime (2024). Fasten off, weave in ends.
SIZE Large: approx 8 x 63⁄4in (20 x 17cm)

Medium: approx 6 x 6in (15 x 15cm)
Small: approx 51⁄2 x 4in (14 x 10cm)
YARN Any super bulky yarn will work here. You

can even try making your own yarn from old
T-shirts or jersey fabric
Ax3 Bx3
CROCHET HOOK P US (12mm) hook

Large-eyed yarn needle

Structured baskets 165
Structured baskets
Using such bulky yarns means these baskets work up quickly. The yarn is
recycled so can vary from cone to cone. Adjust your hook as necessary for the
thickness of the yarn, and crochet tightly for a rigid fabric.
NOTE These baskets are worked in spirals. ROUND 16 Ch 1, 7 sc, 7 ch, skip next 7 sc,
Do not join rounds, but place a marker at the 14 sc, 7 ch, skip next 7 sc, sc to end.
PROJECTS first stitch of the round, moving it up as each ROUND 17 Ch 1, (sc to 7-ch sp, 7 sc into ch sp)
For more basket projects round is completed. twice, sc to end, join round with a ss.
>>go to pages 162, 174, and 176 Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
Large basket
With yarn A, work 2 ch and work 6 sc into Medium basket
second ch from hook, join round with a ss to With yarn A, work as for large basket to round
first st. 5. (36sts)
ROUND 1 Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, ROUND 6 Ch 1, 1 sc TBL into each st around.
do not join round, place marker. (12sts) Join with ss.
ROUND 2 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, rep ROUND 7 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st around.
from * to end. (18sts) Do not join round.
ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, rep Work last round 3 times, then change to
from * to end. (24sts) yarn B and work 2 rounds.
ROUND 4 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, rep ROUND 13 Ch 1, 6 sc, 6 ch, skip next 6 sc,
from * to end. (30sts) 12 sc, 6 ch, skip next 6 sc, sc to end.
ROUND 5 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, rep ROUND 14 Ch 1, (sc to 6 ch sp, 6 sc into ch
from * to end. (36sts) sp) twice, sc to end, join round with a ss.
ROUND 6 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, rep Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
from * to end. Join round with a ss. (42sts)
ROUND 7 Ch 1, 1 sc TBL into each st around. Small basket
Join with ss. With yarn B, work as for large basket to
ROUND 8 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st around. Do round 4. (30sts)
For stylish storage, these three baskets stack not join round. ROUND 5 Ch 1, 1 sc TBL into each st around.
neatly inside each other. Easy-to-grasp handles are Work last round 5 times. Join with ss.
crocheted into the larger two baskets for carrying. ROUND 14 Ch 3, dc into bottom of same st, Change to yarn A.
skip next st, *2 dc into next st, skip next st; ROUND 6 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st around.
<< These baskets are made with Lion Brand rep from * to end of round, join to top of first Do not join round.
Zpaghetti yarn, 55yds/50m/340g, in A: Beige and ch with a ss. Work last round 4 times. Join round with a ss.
B: Pinky red. Work 1 round as round 8. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
166 Home and gifts
Hanging toy basket

This pretty accessory will brighten up any child’s playroom. Constructed in
spirals using single crochet, it can easily be tackled by a beginner. Instructions
are given for a medium and large toy basket.
NOTE Worked in the round in a spiral, do not ROUND 16 *1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st,
turn and do not join at end of each round. rep from * to end. (96sts)
PROJECTS LARGE SIZE ONLY
For more spiral patterns Pattern NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next
>> go to pages 170 and 174 With yarn A, ch 4 and join with a ss to sc, rep from * to end. (102sts)
form a ring. Continue without shaping until piece
ROUND 1 Ch 1 (does not count as stitch), 6 sc measures 61⁄4in (16cm) for small size and 7in
Essential information into ring, place marker to indicate last st of (18cm) for large size from round 1.
round (move marker up at end of each round, LARGE SIZE ONLY
so it always indicates last st). (6sts) NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 15 sts, dc2tog,
SIZE 93⁄4 (12) x 153⁄4 (173⁄4)in/25 (30) x 40 (45)cm ROUND 2 2 sc into each st. (12sts) rep from * to end. (96sts)
ROUND 3 *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, rep BOTH SIZES
YARN Any aran weight or cotton blend can
from * to end. (18sts) NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 14 sts, dc2tog,
be used here
ROUND 4 *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (90sts)
rep from * to end. (24sts) NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 13 sts, dc2tog,
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 rep from * to end. (30sts) NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 12 sts, dc2tog,
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook rep from * to end. (36sts) NEXT ROUND *1 sc in next 11 sts, dc2tog,
rep from * to end. (42sts) Change to B and work 6 (8) rounds in sc as set.
Yarn needle
ROUND 8 *1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, Change to C and work 2 (2) rounds in sc as set.
GAUGE 14 sts x 16 rows per 4in (10cm) rep from * to end. (48sts)
ROUND 9 *1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, Hanging loop
rep from * to end. (54sts) At start of next round, make 20 ch, skip
ROUND 10 *1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, 12 sts, sc to end of round. (60sts and 20ch)
rep from * to end. (60sts) NEXT ROUND 1 sc in each ch and 1 sc in
ROUND 11 *1 sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, each st to end of round. (80sts)
rep from * to end. (66sts) Work 4 (5) rounds in sc as set.
ROUND 12 *1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, FINAL ROUND 1 ss in each sc to end.
rep from * to end. (72sts) Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. Block lightly
ROUND 13 *1 sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st, according to instructions on ballband.
rep from * to end. (78sts)
ROUND 14 *1 sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st,
rep from * to end. (84sts) >> This hanging toy basket is made with Berroco
ROUND 15 *1 sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st, Weekend, 205yds/187m/50g, in A: Turquoise (5966),
rep from * to end. (90sts) B: Taffy (5925), and C: Ambrosia (5920).
SIZE 101⁄2in (27cm) diameter
YARN Any aran weight, preferably superwash

wool, will give a similar texture and finish
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1
Ex1 Fx1
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook
NOTIONS Yarn needle
GAUGE Rounds 1–3 measure 4in

(10cm) diameter
Round stool cover 169
Round stool cover

The vibrant colors of this stool cover add interest to a practical project.
Worked in the round using doubles and single crochet, this is an ideal
project for someone with some experience of crochet.
ROUND 7 Join A into any ch sp, work as for
round 3, fasten off A. (24 3-dc and 24-ch sp)
PROJECTS ROUND 8 Join B into any ch sp, work as for
For more circular patterns round 3, fasten off B. (24 3-dc and 34-ch sp)
>> go to pages 60, 186, and 198 ROUND 9 Join C into any ch sp, work as for
round 3, but work 2 ch between each 3 dc,
Pattern fasten off C. (24 3-dc and 24-ch sp)
With yarn A, work 4 ch, join with a ss to form ROUND 10 Join D into any ch sp, 1 ch, * work
a ring (see p.56). 1 sc into top of each dc, 1 sc in ch sp, repeat
ROUND 1 Ch 3, 1 dc, *1 ch, 2 dc, rep from * four from * to end, join with a ss into top of 1 ch
times, (6 dc pairs made), fasten off A. (96 sc), do not turn work, do not fasten off
ROUND 2 Join B into any ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc, 1 ch, yarn. Continue to work in rounds decreasing
2 dc in first ch sp, *1 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc in as follows:
next ch sp, rep from * four times, join with a ROUND 11 Ch 1, *1 sc in each of next 6 sc,
ss into top of 3 ch. (6-dc pairs and 12-ch sp). sc2tog, repeat from * to end, join with a ss
Fasten off B. in top of 1 ch. (84sts)
ROUND 3 Join C into any ch sp, 3 ch, 2 dc into ROUND 12 Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc to end of
Double crochet gives a lovely openwork finish
same ch sp, *1 ch, 3 dc into next ch sp, rep round, join with a ss in top of ch 3. to the top of this cover, but the underneath is much
from * to end, join with a ss into top of 3 ch, ROUND 13 As round 12. more dense because it is worked in single crochet.
fasten off C. (12 3-dc and 12-ch sp) ROUND 14 Ch 1, *1 sc in each of next 5 sc, This will ensure that the cover fits snugly over the
ROUND 4 Join D into any ch sp, work as for sc2tog, repeat from * to end, join with a ss stool, preventing it from slipping.
round 3, fasten off D. (12 3-dc and 12-ch sp) in top of 1 ch. (72sts)
ROUND 5 Join E into any ch sp, work as ROUND 15 As round 12.
for round 2, fasten off E. (12-dc pairs and ROUND 16 Ch 1, * 1 sc in each of next 4 sc,
24-ch sp) sc2tog, repeat from * to end. (60sts)
ROUND 6 Join F into any ch sp, work as for ROUND 17 As round 12. Fasten off yarn,
round 3, fasten off F. (24 3-dc and 24-ch sp) weave in ends.
<< This stool cover is made with Rowan Pure Wool

Aran, 186yds/170m/100g, in A: Burnt (700), B: Vert
(686), C: Splash (701), D: Marine (683), E: Burlesque
(689), and F: Ember (679).
170 Home and gifts
Rustic ottomans
These simple ottomans are a great way to bring a touch of color into your home.
The size is simple to adjust by working more, or fewer, increase rounds.
NOTE The top of each ottoman is made first, ROUND 3 (1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end. (18sts)
then the sides. The base is made as a separate ROUND 4 (2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) to end. (24sts)
PROJECTS piece and sewn on. This allows the pillow Continue increasing as set, working 1 more sc
For more patterns in chunky yarns filling to be removed for washing. between each increase, making 6 increases
>> go to pages 164 and 174 evenly on each round until work measures
Top 12 (16)in/30 (40)cm. Make a note of the
With L/11 US (8mm) hook, work 6 ch, ss in stitch count, since this will be needed for
Essential information the first ch to form a ring. making the base of the ottoman.
ROUND 1 6 sc into ring, do not join, continue NEXT ROUND 1 sc TBL in each sc to end.
working in a spiral using stitch marker to NEXT AND SUBSEQUENT ROUNDS 1 sc in each st
SIZE Large: 16in (40cm) diameter indicate the last st of each round (remove and to end, continue to work in a spiral, without
Small: 12in (30cm) diameter replace after last sc of each round). Do not increasing until the sides measure 3 (6)in/
turn, continue to work in a spiral with 8 (15)cm. Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
YARN A super bulky cotton or stretchy jersey
RS facing. (6sts) It is advised that all loose ends of yarn are
fabric yarn will be suitable for this project
ROUND 2 2 sc in each sc. (12sts) sewn securely in place as, due to the nature
of the yarn, they can work loose over time
and may fray.
Ax4 Bx5
Base
CROCHET HOOK L/11 US (8mm) hook Work as for top, increasing as set until stitch
count matches stitch count noted for top.
2 round box pillows, approx 16in x 2in
Finishing
(40cm x 5cm) and 12in x 2in (30cm x 5cm);
Fill the ottoman with a pillow form or
or a low-tog comforter to fill the large ottoman
comforter. Attach bottom to sides by sewing
GAUGE Rounds 1–3 measures approx 5in through last round of sides and last round
(12cm) diameter of bottom to secure. Weave in loose ends
securely. Shape gently to give a rounded
appearance.
Stretchy jersey or cotton yarn, such as the

Hooplayarn used here (a by-product of the textile
industry), is growing in popularity with crocheters. Its >> These ottomans are made with Hooplayarn,
chunkiness means that your ottomans will grow rapidly, 109yds/100m/500g, in A: Sparkling embers and
while its texture creates a pretty knotted effect. B: Warm ginger. Lion Brand Zpagetti also works well.
for Summer tunic dress
go to page 246
174 Home and gifts
Cat basket
This colorful cat basket makes good use of the increasingly popular T-shirt yarn,
which is a by-product of the clothing industry. It is satisfying to make, since the
thickness of the yarn allows you to get very quick results.
NOTE The basket is worked in a spiral. Do not ROUND 10 With yarn A, *1 sc in next 9 sts,
join at end of round. Mark the first stitch of 2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (66sts)
PROJECTS each round with a stitch marker or length ROUND 11 *1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st,
For more single crochet projects of colored yarn, in order to keep track of rep from * to end. (72sts)
>> go to pages 166, 194, and 266 rounds and stitches. ROUND 12 With yarn B, *1 sc in next 11 sts,
2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (78sts)
Pattern ROUND 13 With yarn A, *1 sc in next 12 sts,
Essential information With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and 2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (84sts)
work 6 sc into ring. (6sts) ROUND 14 *1 sc in next 13sts, 2 sc in next st,
ROUND 1 2 sc in each sc to end. (12sts) rep from * to end. (90sts)
SIZE Approx 171⁄2in (44cm) diameter ROUND 2 *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, ROUND 15 1 sc TBL in each st to end.
rep from * to end. (18sts) ROUND 16 1 sc in each st (front and back loops)
YARN You can use super bulky weight T-shirt
ROUND 3 With yarn B, *1 sc in next 2 sts, to end.
yarn, cotton, or felted wool to achieve a similar
2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (24sts) ROUND 17 With yarn B, 1 sc in each st to end.
effect. You may need to hold yarn double to
ROUND 4 With yarn A, *1 sc in next 3 sts, ROUNDS 1819 With yarn A, 1 sc in each st
make it rigid
2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (30sts) to end.
ROUND 5 *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, ROUND 20 With yarn B, 1 sc in each st to end.
rep from * to end. (36sts) ROUNDS 2122 With yarn A, 1 sc in each st
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 ROUND 6 With yarn B, *1 sc in next 5 sts, to end.

2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (42sts) ROUND 23 With yarn C, crab st in each st to
CROCHET HOOK N/15 US (10mm) hook ROUND 7 With yarn A, *1 sc in next 6 sts, end. Ss at end of round to join.
2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (48sts) Fasten off, weave in ends.
ROUND 8 *1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, Place a circular pillow inside (optional).
rep from * to end. (54sts)
Circular pillow, optional
ROUND 9 With yarn B, *1 sc in next 8 sts, >> This cat basket is made with Lion Brand Zpagetti,
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential 2 sc in next st, rep from * to end. (60sts) 765yds/700m/850g, in A: Marina, B: Beige, and C: Red.
ADJUSTABLE RING: See p. 132
CRAB STITCH: See p. 144
TOP et.
Work stitches b ask
TIP t i g htl y
to make a rig i d
Keeping it simple with a single crochet stitch gives a pleasing,
even effect. The yarn needs to be as non-stretchy as possible to
keep the basket rigid, and the diameter and height can be adjusted
by adding or subtracting increases and rounds.
176 Home and gifts
Fruit bowl
A very simple yet elegant bowl for storage, and perfect for holding fruit, this
project is worked in the round, with one “through back loop only” round used
to create the crisp rim from which the sides rise.
NOTE Work in spirals. Do not join rounds, ROUND 2 (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 1 st)
but place a marker at first stitch of the round, around. (18sts)
PROJECTS moving it each round to mark the beginning ROUND 3 (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts)
For more storage patterns of a round. Yarn is used as a double strand. around. (24sts)
>> go to pages 162, 164, and 166 ROUND 4 (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts)
Pattern around. (30sts)
With yarn A, work 2 ch and 6 sc into second ROUND 5 (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts)
Essential information ch from hook, join round with a ss to first st. around. (36sts)
ROUND 1 Ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, do ROUND 6 (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts)
not join round, place marker. (12sts) around. (42sts)
SIZE Approx 11 x 2in (28 x 5cm) Continue in this way, working one extra st
between increases each round until you
YARN Use any aran weight, preferably cotton,
have worked 19 rounds and have 120 sts.
yarn held double or a chunky yarn held singly
If you want a larger bowl, you can continue
increasing in this way until the desired size
is achieved. Join round with a ss.
Ax3 Bx1 ROUND 20 Ch 1, 1 sc TBL into each stitch
around.
CROCHET HOOK H/8 US (5mm) hook ROUND 21 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st around.
Repeat round 21 until work measures approx
11⁄4in (3cm) from base. Join round with a ss.
Yarn needle
Change to yarn B and work as round 21 until
When crocheting into the back of one loop
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential, but gauge is
(written in the pattern as sc TBL) rather than working
side measures 2in (5cm) from base. Join
worked tightly for rigidity both loops of a double crochet stitch, you will create round with a ss.
a horizontal bar across your fabric. This creates a firm Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
rim line between the base and the sides.
>> This bowl is made with Berroco Weekend, 207yds/

187m/100g, in A: Oats (5903) and B: Taffy (5925).
For TOP
e xtra th e ya r n d o u b l e .
stren
gth and rigidity, h old TIP
A stitch marker is essential when working
in the round in sc because it allows you to keep track
of the start of each round. By working the stitches
accurately, you will create this lovely spiral pattern
on the base of your bowl. Turn to page 20 for details
on stitch markers.
178 Home and gifts
Filigree bookmarks
A very simple, quick-to-make project, these delicate bookmarks are perfect
for using up ends of yarn. Use the thicker yarn for a bookmark for a coffee-
table book and the finer one for a bookmark for a novel.
Pattern working back into the unworked loop of each

PROJECTS With the 5 steel US (2mm) hook, if working ch as follows: *skip next ch, sc into next ch,
For more crochet cotton patterns with the finer yarn, or the B/1 US (2.5mm) skip next ch, 6 sc into next ch; rep from * to
>> go to pages 184 and 306 hook, if using the thicker yarn, work 42 ch. end, 1 ch, ss to first sc to join round.
ROUND 1 6 sc into second ch from hook, skip ROUND 2 Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch), dc into
next ch, 1 sc into next ch, skip next ch, *6 sc second sc from the first round, (1 ch, 1 dc) into
Essential information into next ch, skip next ch; 1 sc into next sc, each of next 3 sc, skip next 3 sc, *(dc, 1 ch) into
skip next ch; rep from * to last ch, work (6 sc, each of next 3 sc, 1 dc into next sc, skip 3 sc; rep
1 ch, 6 sc) into last ch, do not turn. Now from * to last 6 sc group, (dc, 1 ch) into each of
SIZE Approx 7in x 3⁄4in (18 x 2cm), with a 7in rotate your work 180 degrees and continue next 4 sc, dc into next sc, 3 ch, **(dc, 1 ch) into
(18cm) tassel each of next 4 sc, dc into next sc, skip next 3 sc;
rep between * and **, join round with a ss.
YARN Try small amounts of fine crochet cotton
yarn for this project—the bookmark will get slightly
bigger or smaller, depending on the thickness
Finishing
Cut two lengths of yarn 14in (36cm) long and
fold in half. Insert loop through the 3-ch sp at
one end of the bookmark. Push the end of the
Ax1 Bx1
lengths through the loop, braiding the yarn if
CROCHET HOOK 5 steel US (2mm) and B/1 US desired, and pull tight to make tassel. Thread
(2.5mm) hooks assorted beads onto the ends of the tassel and
secure with a knot.
NOTIONS Yarn needle,
Assorted beads, if desired
>> The small bookmark is made with Size 8 Pearl
Cotton, 95yds/90m/10g, in A: Kingfisher blue (806)
and the large bookmark is made with Rowan Siena 4
Ply, 153yds/140m/50g, in B: Greengage (661).
The main strip is worked in the round by crocheting

into both sides of the starting chain. Note the
difference between the sizes of the bookmarks—
this is achieved by using different thicknesses of
crochet yarn and sizes of hook.
180 Home and gifts
Fish and starfish garland

A fun project for a child’s room, this marine garland can be worked in separate
parts that are assembled at the end. Add as many fish and starfish as you like.
To repeat, yo, insert the hook into “extra chain”, yo, ROUND 12 (sc into next 4 sts, sc2tog) twice,
pull yarn through (3 loops on hook) then yo through sc into last st. (11sts)
PROJECTS 1, yo through 2, yo through 2. ROUND 13 Dc into next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc into
For more chain stitch projects SLIP STITCH JOIN: Put hook into stitch, yo, bring next 5 st. (10sts)
>> go to pages 28 and 30 yarn through stitch and loop on hook. Chain 258 ROUND 14 Dc into each st. (10sts)
using a no-chain double foundation (see left). Flatten the body of the fish keeping the
ADJUSTABLE RING: See p.132 working loop on the hook to the right (left if
Essential information you are left-handed).
Remove stitch marker as you will now be
NOTE Working in a spiral, mark the last stitch working in rows.
SIZE 67in (170cm) long; each motif measures in each round with a stitch marker. ROW 1 Dc into next 4 sts, through both front
approx 4in (10cm) and back body panels, turn. (4sts)
YARN You can use any cotton DK yarn for a

Fish (make 3 of each) ROW 2 Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), sc
Use the following colors: F with B, D with C, into next 3 sts, 2 sc into last st, turn. (5sts)
similar look to this project
and A with E, using first color for main body. ROW 3 Ch 1, sc into next 4 sts, 2 sc into last st,
FOUNDATION Work Ch 4, ss into first ch to turn. (6sts)
form a ring. ROW 4 Ch 1, sc into next 5 sts, 2 sc into last st,
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 ROUND 1 RS Ch 1, 6 sc into ring, mark last turn. (7sts)
stitch with a stitch marker. ROW 5 Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), dc into next 3
ROUND 2 2 sc into first sc made in round sts, ss into next st, dc into next 2 sts, 1 dc and
Ex2 Fx1
1 (1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) repeat 1 hdc into last stitch.
to end. (9sts) Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook ROUND 3 (1 sc into next 2 sts, 2 sc into next
st) repeat to end. (12sts) Finishing
NOTIONS Yarn needle
ROUND 4 4 sc into next 4 sts, 2 sc into next Use second color for edge and face.
Embroidery needle
6 sts. (13sts) Join color 2 where the tail meets the body
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential ROUND 5 (5 sc into next 5 sts, 2 sc into next st) (with fish facing to the left) and sc evenly
twice, sc into last st. (15sts) around the edge of the fish body and tail.
ROUND 6 (6 sc into next 6 sts, 2 sc into next st) Put 2 sc into the tail points and the fish nose.
SC2TOG: Insert hook into stitch specified, yo, bring
twice, sc into last st. (17sts) In the same color, embroider the eye and
yarn through stitch from back to front, insert hook
ROUND 7 (7 sc into next 7 sts, 2 sc into next st) the mouth. Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
into next stitch, yo, bring yarn through stitch from
twice, sc into last st. (19sts)
back to front, yo and pull through all 3 loops on
ROUND 8 1 sc into each st. (19sts)
the hook.
ROUND 9 (sc into next 7 sts, sc2tog) twice,
NO-CHAIN DOUBLE CROCHET FOUNDATION: Ch 3,
sc into last st. (17sts)
yo, insert hook into first chain, yo and pull through
ROUND 10 (sc into next 6 st, sc2tog) twice,
first chain (this will be referred to as an extra chain >> This garland is made with Tahki Yarns Cotton
sc into last st. (15sts) Classic DK, 108yds/100m/50g, in A: Wheat (3253),
later on and you will have 3 loops on hook) yo, pull
ROUND 11 (sc into next 5 sts, sc2tog) twice, B: Magenta (3420), C: Tangerine (3405), D: Turquoise
through 1, yo, pull through 2, yo pull through 2.
sc into last st. (13sts) (3805), E: Dark royal (3873), and F: Leaf green (3724).
Fish and starfish garland 183
Starfish (make 6) starfish with a ss join. Working back up the seventh fish with a ss join. Working back up
Make 3 starfish using colors A and B, and chain toward garland header, 37 ss along the chain toward garland body, 41 ss along the
3 more using C and D. the 38 ch, 1 sc to join to garland header. 42 ch, 1 sc to join to garland.
Use first color for main body. 15 sc (along garland base), 12 ch—join third 15 sc (along garland base), 2 ch—join fifth
FOUNDATION RING Use the adjustable ring fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain starfish with a ss join. Working back up the
method for starting, then work 11 sc into ring. toward the garland header, 11 ss along the chain toward garland body, 1 ss along the
(11sts). Pull the tail end to close the hole. 12 ch, 1 sc to join to garland header. 2 ch, 1 sc to join to garland.
ROUND 1 Ch 1, 1 sc into st at the base of the 15 sc (along garland base), 3 ch—join fourth 15 sc (along garland base), 20 ch—join eighth
1 ch. (1 sc into next st, 2 sc into next st) to fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain
end. Join with a ss to first sc made. (16sts) toward garland body, 2 ss along the 3 ch, 1 sc toward garland body, 19 ss along the 20 ch,
ROUND 2 *Ch 7, 1 sc into second ch from hook, to join to garland. 1 sc to join to garland.
hdc into next 2 ch, dc into next 2 ch, dtr into 15 sc (along garland base), 19 ch—join third 15 sc (along garland base), 24 ch—join sixth
next ch, skip 2 sts on round 1, ss into next starfish with a ss join. Working back up the starfish with a ss join. Working back up the
st on round 1. Repeat from * 4 more times. chain toward garland body, 18 ss along chain toward garland body, 23 ss along the 24
Ss in first ch on round 1. Do not fasten off. the 19 ch, 1 sc to join to garland. ch, 1 sc to join to garland.
(5 star points) 15 sc (along garland base), 28 ch—join fourth 15 sc (along garland base), 8 ch—join ninth
starfish with a ss join. Working back up the fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain
Finishing chain toward garland body, 27 ss along toward garland body, 7 ss along the 8 ch,
Dc evenly around the arms of the starfish the 28 ch, 1 sc to join to garland. 1 sc to join to garland.
(6 sc per side) putting 1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc into 15 sc (along garland base), 15 ch—join fifth
the same st at the point of the arm. fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain Finishing
Fasten off yarn, weave in ends. toward garland body, 14 ss along the 15 ch, Dc to end of garland (17 sc), fasten off yarn,
Make second star in same color. 1 sc to join to garland. weave in ends.
Using second color to edge and for face, place 15 sc (along garland base), 21 ch—join sixth
both stars with WS together and sc evenly fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain
around the edges joining both stars as you go toward garland body, 20 ss along the 21 ch,
putting 1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc into each point. Join 1 sc to join to garland.
with a ss. Fasten off, weave in ends. 15 sc (along garland base), 42 ch—join
Embroider facial features on all starfish.
Pairs of happy starfish bob

Garland around between the row of fish on
Work 258 ch using a no-chain dc foundation. this fun garland. Use French knots
ROW 1 With yarn A, turn, 1 ch, sc into each st, for the eyes and a row of six chain
turn. (258sts) stitches for the smiling mouth.
ROW 2 (Make sure not to twist the chain) Do not place your garland within
Ch 1, 16 sc, 7 ch—join first starfish with a ss reach of small children because
it could be a choking hazard.
join. Working back up the chain toward the
garland header, 6 ss along the 7 ch, 1 sc to join
to garland header.
15 sc (along garland base), 34 ch—join first
fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain
toward garland header, 33 ss along the 34 ch,
1 sc to join to garland header.
15 sc (along garland base), 15 ch—join second
fish with a ss join. Working back up the chain
toward garland header, 14 ss along the 15 ch,
1 sc to join to garland header.
15 sc (along garland base), 38 ch—join second
184 Home and gifts
Flower pin cushion

This colorful pin cushion is worked in spirals for the base, and the use
of different stitches creates pretty patterns with minimal fuss.
Pattern Change to yarn E, attaching to the back loop
With yarn A, work 2 ch. of any stitch from round 9.
PROJECTS ROUND 1 6 sc into second ch from hook, join ROUND 11 Ch 1, 1 sc TBL into each st around.
For more projects worked in the round round with a ss. (60 sc TBL)
>> go to pages 194, 196, and 204 ROUND 2 Ch 1, 2 sc into each st around, join Work 6 rounds straight in regular sc, working
round with a ss. (12sts) in spirals, placing a marker at the beg of each
Essential information ROUND 3 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join round and moving it up as you go.
round with a ss. (12sts) NEXT ROUND (8 sc, sc2tog) around. (54sts)
ROUND 4 Ch 1, 1 sc, (3 dc into next st, 1 sc) NEXT ROUND (7 sc, sc2tog) around. (45sts)
SIZE Approx 3in (8cm) in diameter 5 times, 3 dc into last st, join round with a ss. NEXT ROUND (6 sc, sc2tog) around. (36sts)
Fasten off. Continue in this way, decreasing 6 stitches
YARN Any small amount of crochet thread will
Change to yarn B, attaching to any central per round by working one fewer sc in between
substitute here
dc of 3-dc group. decreases, until there are 6 sts left. Stuff the
ROUND 5 Ch 1, *3 sc into dc, 1 dc into next cushion before the hole gets too small.
dc, 1 tr into sc, 1 dc into next dc; rep from * Fasten off yarn, thread through remaining
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex2 to end of round. Join round with a ss. (36sts) stitches, and pull up tight to close hole.
ROUND 6 Ch 1, 1 sc, (2 sc into next st, 5 sc) Weave in all ends.
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2.5mm) hook to end of round, ending with 4 sc only, join
round with a ss. Fasten off. (42sts)
Change to yarn C, attaching to the first sc
Yarn needle
of a pair.
Polyfill
ROUND 7 Ch 1, (1 sc, 1 ch, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 3
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential dc into next st, 1 dc, 1 hdc) around. Join
round with a ss, fasten off. (54sts)
NOTE Do not join rounds, but place a marker Change to yarn D, attaching yarn to central
at the first stitch of the round, moving it up dc of any 3-dc group.
as each round is completed to mark the ROUND 8 Ch 1, *3 sc into central dc, 1 sc, 1 hdc,
beginning of each round. 1 dc, skip 1 sc, 1 tr in ch sp, skip 1 sc, 1 dc,
Ch 1 at beg of non-spiral rounds does not 1 hdc, 1 sc; rep from * to end of round. (60sts)
count as a stitch. ROUND 9 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st to end of round.
Work the next round TFL of every stitch. To crochet in the round, you will first need to make
ROUND 10 2 ss, 1 ch, *2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 3 dc a foundation row that is joined into a ring. Refer to
into next st, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 ss; rep from * page 26 for more information about working slip stitch
to end of round. Fasten off. and using slip stitches to form a foundation ring.
TOP A l i tt l e p a t i e n c e m a >> This pin cushion is made with Rowan Siena

TIP yb
e re 4 Ply, 153yds/140m/50g, in A: Tandoori (676),
q uir B: Mariner (672), C: Beacon (668), D: Green (661),
ed i f n on .
ew to crochet cott and E: Frost (653).
186 Home and gifts
Chunky rug
This stylish rug is worked in rounds and makes an eye-catching addition
to any room. The chunky yarn is soft and warm underfoot and works up
quickly on a large crochet hook.
twice, yo twice, insert hook into st, yo, draw in next ch sp, ch 1 *dccl, 1 ch, dccl in
through, yo and draw through 2 loops twice, next ch sp, 1 ch, dccl in next ch sp, 1 ch,
PROJECTS yo and draw through rem 3 loops on hook. repeat from * to end, ss into top of first dc to
For more chunky patterns DOUBLE CLUSTER PAIR: dccl, 1 ch, dccl all in the close round. (16 dccl and 16 dc cluster pairs)
>> go to pages 30, 206, and 226 same ch sp. ROUND 8 As round 6. (48 dccl)
ROUND 9 Ss into next ch sp, 5 ch, *1 tr in next
ch sp, 1 ch, repeat from * to end, join with a ss
Essential information Pattern into fourth ch of 5 ch. (48sts)
Work 4 ch, ss into first ch to make a ring. ROUND 10 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into
ROUND 1 Ch 2, 1 hdc into ring, 1 ch, *hdccl ch sp, 1 ch, dccl into same ch sp, 1 ch, trcl
SIZE 351⁄2in (90cm) diameter into ring, 1 ch, repeat from * 6 more times, in next ch sp, 1 ch, *dccl, 1 ch, dccl in next
ss into top of first hdc to close round. ch sp, 1 ch, trcl in next ch sp, 1 ch, repeat
YARN Any super chunky yarn with a high
(8 hdccl) from * to end, ss into top of first dc to close
synthetic content is suitable
ROUND 2 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into round. (24 dc cluster pairs and 24 large
ch sp, 2 ch, *dccl in next ch sp, 2 ch, repeat dccl made)
from * to end of round, ss into top of first ROUND 11 As round 6. (72 dccl)
x4 dc to close round. (8 dccl) ROUND 12 Ch 1, *1 sc in top of dccl, 1 sc into
ROUND 3 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into ch sp, repeat from * to end, ss into 1 ch
CROCHET HOOK P US (12mm) hook ch sp, 1 ch, dccl in same ch sp, 1 ch, *dccl, to close round.
1 ch, dccl, in next ch sp, 1 ch, repeat from * to
NOTIONS Yarn needle
end, ss into top of first dc to close round. Finishing
GAUGE Rounds 1-2 measure 6in (15cm) diameter (8 dccl pairs) Weave in all ends securely on wrong side.
ROUND 4 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into Pin rug to a flat surface and spray lightly with
ch sp, 1 ch, *dccl in next ch sp, 1 ch, repeat water, shape to a flat circle, and let dry.
Clusters worked as follows, depending on pattern
from * to end, ss into top of first dc to close A nonslip backing can be sewn to the reverse
instruction:
round. (16 dccl) of the rug, if desired.
HDCCL: half double crochet cluster. Hook into st,
ROUND 5 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into
yarn over, draw through, yo and draw through 1
ch sp, 1 ch, dccl into same ch sp, 1 ch, *dccl,
loop, insert hook into st, yo, draw through, yo and >> This rug is made with Lion Brand Hometown USA,
1 ch, dccl in next ch sp, 1 ch, repeat from * to 81yds/74m/140g, in Houston cream (98).
draw through all 3 loops on hook.
end, ss into top of first dc to close round.
DCCL: double crochet cluster. Yo, insert hook
(16 dccl pairs)
into st, yo, draw through, yo and draw through 2
ROUND 6 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into ch
loops, yo, insert hook into st, yo, draw through,
sp, 1 ch, *dccl in next ch sp, 1 ch, repeat from *
yo and draw through 2 loops, yo and draw
to end, ss into top of first dc to close round.
through remaining 3 loops on hook.
(32 dccl)
TRCL: treble cluster. Yo twice, insert hook into st,
ROUND 7 Ss into next ch sp, 3 ch, 1 dc into ch
yo, draw through, yo and draw through 2 loops
sp, 1 ch, dccl into same ch sp, 1 ch, dccl
The clusters in this project create an attractive
mesh pattern toward the outside of the rug and this
contrasts well with the tighter stitches at the edge,
and the nice neat finish given by the final row of
single crochet.
Hats
and scarves
190 Hats and scarves
Baby bonnet
This bonnet has a simple construction—a rectangle folded and sewn to make
a cute pixie point at the back. Create your own stripe sequence and textures by
changing stitches for each stripe, as here, or use the same stitch all the way up.
Pattern
PROJECTS With yarn A, work 56 (62) ch.
For more double stitch patterns ROW 1 1 hdc in third ch from hook, 1 hdc
>>go to pages 44 and 186 in each ch to end. (54(60)hdc)
ROW 2 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end.
ROW 3 As row 2.
Essential information Change to yarn B.
ROW 4 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end of row.
ROWS 57 As row 4.
SIZE To fit a baby, 0–3 (3–6) months Change to yarn C.
ROW 8 Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end of row.
YARN Any DK weight yarn will substitute here.
ROW 9 As row 8.
Baby yarns are preferable for their softness and
ROWS 1018 Rep rows 1–9 stripe sequence.
easy-to-wash fibers
Change to yarn A.
ROWS 1921 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end.
Change to yarn B and work straight in sc until
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 piece measures approx 6(61⁄4)in/15(16)cm.
Turn to pages 70–71 for seam techniques.
Use the same colored yarn for finishing as the
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook Finishing surrounding yarn of the seam, so that the seam
Fold piece in half lengthwise to create the does not show.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
bonnet, sewing along top seam, which will
⁄2in (15mm) pink button
1
become the back of bonnet, to close it.
GAUGE 18 sc to 4in (10cm) square ROUND 1 With yarn C, work 20 ch for chin strap, to center sc of 3 sc, 3 ch, skip next
strap, attach chain to bottom corner of the sc, sc in each sc to end of chin strap. Fasten
hat and work evenly in sc all around face off yarn and weave in all ends.
opening, working 3 sc into corner sp to Sew button to bottom corner of bonnet,
get round, then work in sc evenly along corresponding to buttonhole of chin strap.
bottom of the bonnet for neck opening,
join round with a ss.
>> This bonnet is made with Debbie Bliss Baby
ROUND 2 Work 1 sc into each ch of chin strap,
Cashmerino, 137yds/125m/50g, in A: Ecru (101),
working 3 sc into last ch, then turn work B: Candy pink (006), and C: Hot pink (060).
around 180 degrees and work back into
unworked bottom loops of chain. Complete
the face opening evenly in sc, then work
(sc2tog, 1 sc) along the neck opening to
decrease, work 1 sc into each sc along chin
Child’s hat with ears

This hat is the cutest headgear ever—worked in the round as one dome,
the ears are then crocheted in two pieces and sewn on.
Pattern ROUND 1 Ch 1, 2 sc into each sc, do not join

With yarn A, work 3 ch and 8 hdc into third round. (12sts)
PROJECTS ch from hook, ss into first st to join. ROUND 2 *1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep
For more patterns in the round ROUND 1 Work 2 hdc into each hdc, join round from * to end of round. (18sts)
>> go to pages 266 and 274 with a ss to first st. (16sts) ROUND 3 *1 sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc,
ROUND 2 Ch 2, *work 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc rep from * to end of round. Join round with
into next st, rep from * to end of round, join a ss. (24sts)
Essential information round with a ss to first st. (24sts) Fasten off yarn. With yarn B, make two more
ROUND 3 Ch 2, *work 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc ears the same up to round 2.
into next st, 1 hdc into next st, rep from * to
SIZE To fit a child, age 1–5 years end of round, join round with a ss to first st. Finishing
(32sts) Block hat pieces lightly.
YARN You can use any wool or wool-mix DK yarn
ROUND 4 Ch 2, *work 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc Sew each yarn A ear piece to a yarn B ear
for this project
into next st, 1 hdc into next st, rep from * to piece, with wrong sides facing each other and
end of round, join round with a ss to first st. yarn B at front.
(40sts) Sew an ear to each side of the hat crown.
Ax1 Bx1 ROUND 5 Ch 2, *work 1 hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc
into next st, 1 hdc into next st, rep from * to
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook end of round, join round with a ss to first st.
(48sts)
Continue in this way, working extra sts
Yarn needle
between each inc until there are 72 sts.
GAUGE 15 hdc x 12 rows per 4in (10cm) Work straight without increasing (1 hdc in
each st) for approx 4in (10cm).
Fasten off yarn. Join yarn B to bottom round
of hat crown and work 1 row of sc all around,
join round with a ss.
Ears (make 2)
With yarn A, work in spirals, placing a marker
at end of each round, moving it up each round. Make a tight ring at the center of each ear piece for
Work 2 ch and 6 sc into second ch from hook, a neat finish. Turn to page 56 for more details about
join round with a ss to first st. Continue in crocheting flat circles.
spirals for remainder of ear piece.
>> This hat is made with Rowan Kid Classic, 153yds/
140m/50g, in A: Bitter sweet (866) and Rowan Pure
Wool DK, 50g/125m/137yds, in B: Pier (006).
Men’s beanie hat

This classic beanie-style hat is made in the round, from crown to rim. Made
entirely in single crochet, the stripes add classic style. The ribbing at the edge
is made by working around the single crochet posts on the round below.
NOTE Do not join rounds, but place a marker ROUND 6 Sc in each st to marker.
at the first stitch of the round, moving it up ROUND 7 *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from *
PROJECTS as each round is completed to mark the to marker. (54sts)
For more hat patterns beginning of each round. ROUND 8 Sc in each st to marker.
>> go to pages 190, 192, 196, and 198 ROUND 9 *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from *
Pattern to marker. (63sts)
With yarn A and H/8 US (5mm) hook, work 2 ch. ROUND 10 Sc in each st to marker.
Essential information ROUND 1 9 sc in second ch from hook, place ROUND 11 *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from *
marker. (9sts) to marker. (72sts)
ROUND 2 2 sc in each sc to marker. (18sts) ROUND 12 Sc in each st to marker.
SIZE To fit an adult male ROUND 3 *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * ROUND 13 *7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from *
to marker. (27sts) to marker. (81sts)
YARN You can use any aran weight wool or wool
ROUND 4 *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * Work straight in continuous rounds of sc until
mix yarn to achieve a similar effect
to marker. (36sts) hat measures 41⁄4in (10.5cm).
ROUND 5 *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, rep from * With yarn B, work 2 rounds in sc.
to marker. (45sts) With yarn C, work 2 rounds in sc.
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1
With yarn B, work 2 rounds in sc.
With yarn A, work 3 rounds in sc.
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) and H/8 US (5mm) With yarn B, work 2 rounds in sc.
hook With yarn C, work 2 rounds in sc.
With yarn B, work 2 rounds in sc.
With yarn A, work 2 rounds in sc.
Yarn needle
NEXT ROUND With yarn B and 7 US (4.5mm)
GAUGE 17 sts x 20 rows per 4in (10cm) hook, sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (80sts)
NEXT ROUND *rscf, rscb, rep from * to end,
ss in next 2sts.
RSCF: raised single crochet front. At the front of
the work, insert hook from right to left, around
the post of the sc on the previous row, yarn over
hook, draw through, yarn over hook, draw through
>> This beanie is made with Debbie Bliss Bluefaced
2 loops on hook, therefore making a sc.
Leicester British Wool, 82yds/75m/50g, in A: Duck
RSCB: raised single crochet back. At the back of
egg (12), B: Red (08), and C: Denim (13).
the work, insert hook from right to left, around
the post of the sc on the previous row, yarn over Combining colors as stripes is more challenging
than crocheting in just one color, but it’s well worth the
hook, draw through, yarn over hook, draw through
effort and easy once you’ve mastered the technique.
2 loops on hook, therefore making a sc.
Turn to page 39 for more details.
SIZE To fit a child, age 3–4 (4–5:5–6)
YARN Any DK weight yarn with a high merino wool

content will achieve a similar effect
Ax2 Bx1
NOTIONS Yarn needle

Two circles cut from cardboard, with an outer
diameter of 21⁄4in (6cm) and a ring cut from the
middle with a diameter of 1in (2.5cm) to make
the pompom
GAUGE 19 sts x 8 rows per 4in (10cm)
Child’s hat with earflaps 197
Child’s hat with earflaps

This simple and fun project will keep your little one warm all winter. Worked in
the round from the top, the hat uses half double stitches to give warmth. The hat
circumferences measure 17 3⁄4in (45cm), 18 1⁄2in (47cm), and 19in (48cm).
ROUND 12 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into NEXT ROUND With yarn A, 2 ch, 1 hdc into
PROJECTS each of next 9 sts; rep from * to last 9 sts, each st to end, join into a round with a ss.
For more children’s patterns 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next Break off yarn A.
>> go to pages 210, 212, and 246 8 sts, join into a round with a ss. (77sts)
ROUND 13 Ch 2, 1 hdc into each st to end, join Making the earflaps
into a round with a ss. Rejoin yarn A at 15 (15:16) sts after the end
Pattern ROUND 14 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into of the last round. 2 ch, 1 hdc into each of the
ROUND 1 Using the adjustable ring method of each of next 10 sts; rep from * to last 10 sts, next 14 (15:16) sts. Turn.
starting and yarn A, work 2 ch and then 6 hdc 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next 9 ROW 1 Ch 2, hdc2tog, work 1 hdc into each st
into the ring. Gently close the ring and join sts, join into a round with a ss. (84sts) to the last 2 sts, hdc2tog. 12 (13:14) sts. Turn.
into a round with a ss. (7sts) MEDIUM AND LARGE SIZES ONLY Repeat row 1 until 2 (1:2) sts remain. Fasten
ROUND 2 Ch 2, 1 hdc into same st, 2 hdc into ROUND 15 Ch 2, 1 hdc into each st to end, join off yarn.
each st to end, join into a round with a ss. into a round with a ss. Make the second earflap on the other side of
(14sts) ROUND 16 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into the hat to match.
ROUND 3 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next 11 sts; rep from * to last 11 sts,
next st; rep from * to last st, 2 hdc into next 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next Edging
st, join into a round with a ss. (21sts) 10 sts, join into a round with a ss. (91sts) Join yarn B to the end of the last complete
ROUND 4 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into LARGE SIZE ONLY round worked.
each of next 2 sts; rep from * to last 2 sts, ROUND 17 Ch 2, 1 hdc into each st to end, join Work 1 ch. 1 sc into each st.
2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next st, join into into a round with a ss. At the first earflap, work 2 sc into each end
a round with a ss. (28sts) ROUND 18 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into of row to the point of the earflap.
Continue in this way, increasing 7 sts on each of next 12 sts; rep from * to last 12 sts, Work 26 ch, then turn and, starting from the
each round until 9 rounds in total have been 2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next third ch from hook, work 1 sc into each ch.
worked. (63sts) 11 sts, join into a round with a ss. (98sts) Work 2 sc into each end of row.
ROUND 10 Ch 2, 1 hdc into each st to end, join ALL SIZES Work 1 sc into each st along the base of
into a round with a ss. Work straight (as per round 10) until the the hat.
ROUND 11 Ch 2, *2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into depth of the hat measures 6 (61⁄4:63⁄4)in/ Work the second earflap in the same way as
each of next 8 sts; rep from * to last 8 sts, 15 (16:17)cm from the beginning. the first.
2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of next NEXT ROUND With yarn B, 1 ch, 1 sc into each Work 1 sc into each st to the end of the round.
7 sts, join into a round with a ss. (70sts) st to end, join into a round with a ss. Join with a ss. Fasten off yarn.
NEXT ROUND With yarn A, 2 ch, 1 hdc into
each st to end, join into a round with a ss. Finishing
<< This hat is made with Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK, NEXT ROUND With yarn B, 1 ch, 1 sc into each Make a 2in (5cm) pom-pom in yarn B and
120yds/110m/50g, in A: Apple (340002) and B: st to end, join into a round with a ss. attach to the top of the hat. Weave in all ends.
Candy pink (340006). Break off yarn B.
Essential information SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
BEG BOBBLE: Ch 3, (yo and insert hook in st, yo
and draw a loop through, yo and draw through
SIZE To fit an adult female first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in the same st,
yo and draw a loop through all 4 loops on hook.
YARN You can use any DK weight silk/wool blend
BOBBLE STITCH: (yo and insert hook in st, yo
for a similar effect
and draw a loop through, yo and draw through
first 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in the same st,
yo and draw a loop through all 5 loops on hook.
DEC 1 BOBBLE: (yo and insert hook in st, yo and
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1
draw a loop through, yo and draw through first
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in the same st, rep
in next st, yo and draw a loop through all
NOTIONS Yarn needle
10 loops on hook.
GAUGE 8 bobbles per 4in (10cm) CRAB STITCH: See p. 144
Woman’s beret 199
Women’s beret
The beret is quick and easy to make and will make a perfect gift for a friend. The
beret is worked in the round starting at the center and then adding each row.
from * 34 times, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.

(36 bobbles)
PROJECTS ROUND 7 With C, join yarn in any ch sp, beg
For more crab stitch patterns bobble, 1 bobble in same ch sp, 1 bobble
>> go to pages 144, 174, and 240 in next 2-ch sp, *2 bobbles in next ch sp,
1 bobble in next 2-ch sp; rep from * 10 times,
ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off. (48 bobbles)
Pattern ROUND 8 With A, join yarn in any ch sp, beg
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in last ch from bobble, 1 ch, *1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep
hook to form ring. from * 46 times, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.
ROUND 1 Ch 3, 11 dc into center ring. (12sts) (48 bobbles)
ROUND 2 Ch 3, (yo and insert hook in first st, ROUND 9 With B, join yarn in any ch sp, beg
yo and draw a loop through, yo and draw bobble, 1 bobble in same ch sp, 1 bobble The lovely bobble stitches used in this hat make
through first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in in next 3-ch sp *2 bobbles in next ch sp, it a very tactile and attractive project.
the same st, yo and draw a loop through 1 bobble in next 3-ch sp; rep from * 10 times,
all 4 loops on hook, (counts as first bobble), ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off. (60 bobbles)
*1 bobble in next st; rep from * 10 times, ss in ROUND 10 With C, join yarn in any ch sp, beg from * 46 times, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off.
top of 3 ch. Fasten off. (12 bobbles) bobble, 1 ch, *1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep (48 bobbles)
ROUND 3 With B, join yarn in any ch sp, beg from * 58 times, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off. ROUND 16 With C, join yarn in any ch sp, 3 ch,
bobble, 1 bobble in same ch sp, *2 bobbles in (60 bobbles) (yo and insert hook in same ch sp, yo and
next ch sp; rep from * 10 times, ss in top of ROUND 11 With A, rep round 10. draw a loop through, yo and draw through
3 ch. Fasten off. (24 bobbles) ROUND 12 With B, rep round 10. first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in the same
ROUND 4 With C, join yarn in any ch sp, beg ROUND 13 With C, rep round 10. ch sp, (yo and insert hook in next ch sp, yo
bobble, 1 ch, *1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep ROUND 14 With A, join yarn in any ch sp, 3 ch, and draw a loop through, yo and draw through
from * 22 times, ss in top of 3 ch. Fasten off. (yo and insert hook in same ch sp, yo and first 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in the same
(24 bobbles) draw a loop through, yo and draw through ch sp, yo and draw a loop through all 10 loops
ROUND 5 With A, join yarn in any ch sp, beg first 2 loops on hook) 3 times all in the same on hook, (dec 1 bobble), 1 ch,
bobble, 1 bobble in same ch sp, 1 bobble in ch sp, (yo and insert hook in next ch sp, yo (1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch) twice, *dec 1
next ch sp, *2 bobbles in next ch sp, 1 bobble and draw a loop through, yo and draw through bobble, 1 ch (1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch)
in next ch sp; rep from * 10 times, ss in top of first 2 loops on hook) 4 times all in the same twice; rep from * 10 times, ss in top of 3 ch.
3 ch. Fasten off. (36 bobbles) ch sp, yo and draw a loop through all 10 loops (36 bobbles)
ROUND 6 With B, join yarn in any ch sp, beg on hook, (dec 1 bobble), 1 ch, ROUND 17 With A, join yarn in any ch sp,
bobble, 1 ch, *1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep (1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch) 3 times, *dec 1 ch, work 1 sc in the top of each bobble and
1 bobble, 1 ch (1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch) each 1 ch around, ss in top of ch. (72sts)
3 times; rep from * 10 times, ss in top of 3 ch. ROUNDS 1819 Repeat round 17.
<< This beret is made with Manos del Uruguay Silk Fasten off. (48 bobbles) ROUND 20 1 ch, work in crab stitch around,
Blend, 300yds/270m/100g, in A: Pacific (2630), ROUND 15 With B, join yarn in any ch sp, beg ss in ch.
B: Baltic (2330), and C: Caribbean (2190). bobble, 1 ch, *1 bobble in next ch sp, 1 ch; rep Fasten off, weave in ends.
Lacy scarf
This pretty and very feminine scarf uses multiple increases to create ruffles.
The pattern is worked in a round, but working into both sides of the starting
chain. It can easily be adapted for a longer or shorter scarf.
Pattern You can now continue to make rounds in
Make a length of chain approx 4in (10cm) the same way if you wish—work an increase
PROJECTS shorter than desired scarf. round working 2 dc into each st or ch sp, or
For more scarf projects For this 59in (150cm) long scarf, a chain work a plain round or whatever type of ruffle
>> go to pages 40, 204, and 206 of approx 55in (140cm) was worked. Now round you wish until the desired width of
work 3 ch extra (counts as first treble ruffle is reached.
on round 1). Fasten off, weave in ends. Do not block the
Essential information ROUND 1 2 dc into fourth ch from hook, 1 dc scarf as it may flatten the ruffle.
in each ch to end, do not join or turn, work
3 dc into the last ch, then turn your work
SIZE Approx 59 x 4in (150 x 10cm) 180 degrees and work 1 dc into the unworked
bottom loop of each ch to end, join round
YARN For the same light and airy feel, use any
with a ss to top of first ch.
fine mohair but you can use any lace weight yarn
ROUND 2 Ch 3, 1 dc into bottom of ch, 3 dc
with varying effect
into central dc of 3-dc group of round 1, 2 dc
into each dc to other end of scarf, work 3 dc
into central dc, then 2 dc into each st to end,
x3 join round with a ss to top of first ch.
ROUND 3 Ch 4, 1 tr into bottom of ch, * 2 tr
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook into each dc to center dc of 3-dc group of
round 2, work 3 tr into central dc; rep from *,
NOTIONS Yarn needle
then 2 tr into each st to end, join round with
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential a ss to top of first ch.
ROUND 4 Ch 5 (counts as 1 tr, 1 ch), (1 tr,
1 ch), all into bottom of ch, * (1 tr, 1 ch) into
each tr to center tr of 3-tr group of round
3, work (1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr, 1 ch, 1 tr) into central
tr; rep from * then (1 tr, 1 ch) into each st to Work additional stitch increases in each round
end, join round with a ss to top of first ch. for a more highly ruffled scarf, or work plain rows in
between increases for a less ruffled one.
>> This scarf is made with Rowan Kidsilk Haze,

230yds/210m/25g, in Dewberry (600).
Broomstick lace shawl

What better accessory for a wedding or summer garden party than this delicate,
threadlike shawl? Crocheted with a long broomstick and using gossamer fine
yarn, the stunning result hides how easy it is to make.
NOTE The shawl is a straight piece of Foundation spine and first side
broomstick lace, but half of it is worked Work 144 ch making sure they are kept nice
PROJECTS on one side of the foundation row of single and loose. Leave a long tail in case you
For more openwork patterns crochet, referred to here as the “spine,” and miscount and need to make a few extra
>> go to pages 116, 200, and 254 half of it is worked on the other side. This chains to get the right number of stitches
gives a symmetrical look to the finished shawl. on the foundation row.
If you find it hard to insert the hook into the Insert hook under back bump only of first
Essential information top of the sc to put the next loop on the ch, 1 sc. Insert hook in same way, 1 sc
broomstick, use a smaller, pointed-ended in each ch to end. (144 sc)
hook—remember to use the 7 US (4.5mm)
SIZE Approx 231⁄2 x 59in (60 x 150cm) hook to work the sc sts. Pattern row
Pick up a loop onto the broomstick in each
YARN Any lace weight mohair yarn will give a
Construction pattern sc across. (144 loops)
similar effect. This pattern can also be made
Take off loops in groups of 4, placing 4 sc in
with any DK yarn for a more solid shawl.
each group. (144 sc = 36 groups)
Non-fluffy yarns will produce a robust shawl
Rep pattern row for half of required length.
Direction of work Direction of work
Fasten off.
x5
Foundation spine Second side
Join yarn to end of initial spine of sc farthest
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook away from the tail of yarn and work pattern
row as for first side.
NOTIONS 8mm x 14 or 16in (20 x 35 or 40cm)
long broomstick or knitting needle
Finishing
Yarn needle
Weave in all ends.
GAUGE 6 groups of 4 loops (24 sc) and 4 rows Avoid heavy blocking of this shawl or you will
to 4in (10cm) flatten the beautiful, fluffy texture of the yarn.
Pin out to the required size, lightly spritz with
water, and allow to dry naturally.
>> This shawl is made with Rowan Kidsilk Haze,

230yds/210m/25g, in Meadow (581).
Work the foundation row of single crochet into the

back bump only of the initial chain, to provide balanced
loops to work each side of the shawl outward, from
the center back foundation “spine.”
Tweed stitch cowl

This warm and wooly cowl is made in the round using the shape of a Möebius
strip. By making one twist, the loop appears never-ending and each round of
crochet increases both the top and the bottom of the piece.
Pattern
Work 148 ch.
PROJECTS FOUNDATION ROW Starting in the third ch
For more scarf patterns from hook, *1 sc into next st, 1 ch, skip next
>> go to page 116, 200, and 206 st; rep from * to last st, 1 sc into last st.
Join with a ss into the last ch from hook (i.e.,
the base of the first st), making 1 twist (which
Essential information means that round 1 will be worked in the base
of the sts on the foundation row).
Mark the first st with the stitch marker or
SIZE 36 x 7in (92 x 18cm) safety pin. (This is purely to help you see
easily where the round has started; the
YARN Any aran weight yarn with high wool
double-sided nature of the cowl and the
content will produce a similar effect
fabric can sometimes make this tricky.)
ROUND 1 Ch 1, *work 1 sc into the ch sp on
the row below, 1 ch, skip next st; rep from * to
x4 end, join with a ss.
ROUND 2 Ch 3, *skip next st, work 1 sc into the Tweed stitch is an easy crochet stitch that is also
CROCHET HOOK I/9 US (5.5mm) hook ch sp on the row below, 1 ch; rep from * to last known as seed stitch. It creates a dense-textured
st, work 1 sc into the last st, join with a ss. fabric, which is ideal for a winter warmer.
Repeat these 2 rows 7 more times (16 rows
Yarn needle
in total). >> This cowl is made with Rowan Felted Tweed Aran,
GAUGE 16 sts x 18 rows per 4in (10cm) Fasten off, weave in ends. 95yds/87m/50g, in Plum (731).
Men’s chunky scarf

This striped scarf is made lengthwise in half double crochet worked between
the stitches, with added length provided by the addition of tassels. Turn to pages
24–25 and pages 38–39 for details about the stitches used in this project.
Pattern
With yarn A, work 182 ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 hdc in third ch from hook, hdc in
For more patterns for men each ch to end, turn.
>> go to pages 194 and 226 ROW 2 Ch 2, *hdc in the space between the
first 2 sts, rep from * to end, turn.
With yarn B, rep row 2 twice.
Essential information With yarn C, rep row 2 twice.
With yarn D, rep row 2 twice.
With yarn A, rep row 2 twice.
SIZE 63⁄4 x 901⁄2in (17 x 230cm) With yarn B, rep row 2 twice.
With yarn C, rep row 2 twice.
YARN You can use any chunky weight, merino
With yarn D, rep row 2 twice.
wool yarn to achieve a similar effect
Tassels
Ax2 Bx2 Cx2 Dx2 With matching yarn, place 1 tassel at the
By working half double crochet in the spaces
end of each row on both ends of the scarf
CROCHET HOOK K/101⁄2 US (6.5mm) hook between stitches to create tiny “pockets,” and by as follows:
using chunky yarn, this scarf is sure to keep the wearer Cut four 10in (25cm) long pieces of yarn,
NOTIONS Yarn needle
toasty warm by trapping warm air within the scarf. fold in half, feed loop through end of row,
GAUGE 8 sts x 9.5 rows per 4in (10cm) bring ends through loop, pull to fasten in
place (see p. 74).
>> This scarf is made with Debbie Bliss Rialto Chunky,

66yds/60m/50g, in A: Navy (12), B: Ecru (03), C: Duck
egg (10), and D: Camel (06).
ve i n the yarn en
Wea ds a
s yo u TOP
work al
ong the rows. TIP
Gloves, socks,
and slippers
210 Gloves, socks, and slippers
Child’s wrist warmers

Worked in single crochet, these simple striped wrist warmers are an ideal
way to practice changing colors. With no shaping, the thumb slit is worked
by leaving part of the seam open when sewing up.
NOTE When working color changes, yarn Finishing

should be changed on last yo of last sc in the With RS facing, fold piece in half and sew
PROJECTS row; yarn should be cut and not “carried.” a seam along row edge, leaving 3⁄4in (2cm)
For more striped patterns unworked for thumb slit.
>> go to pages 260, 278, and 306 Pattern (make 2) Weave in any remaining ends.
With yarn A, work 21 ch. Turn right side out, join C to any row on
ROW 1 WS Sc into second ch from hook, thumb slit and work sc evenly around.
Essential information 1 sc in each st to end, change to B. (20sts) Fasten off, weave in ends.
ROW 2 RS Ch 1, sc to end, turn. Press according to ball band instructions.
ROW 3 As row 2, change to C at end of row.
SIZE To fit a child, age 8–10 years Continue working in single crochet in the
following color sequence:
YARN Any DK weight wool-blend yarn, preferably
ROWS 4 AND 5 Yarn C.
machine washable, can be substituted here
ROWS 6 AND 7 Yarn A.
ROWS 8 AND 9 Yarn B.
ROWS 10 AND 11 Yarn C.
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook ROWS 16 AND 17 Yarn C.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
GAUGE 14 sts x 16 rows per 4in (10cm) Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends.
Rejoin C to top right-hand corner of row 1,
work shell trim as follows:
sc in first st, ss in next sc, *5 hdc in next sc,
skip 1 sc, ss in next sc, rep from * to end.
Fasten off C (6 hdc shells made). The cuff of each wrist warmer is decorated with
Turn work 180 degrees and rejoin C to top half double shells. Refer to pages 38–39 for information
right-hand edge, repeat shell trim. about half double crochet and simple stripes.
>> These wrist warmers are made with Berroco

Vintage DK, 288yds/263m/50g, in A: Fondant (2110),
B: Pool party (21107), and C: Magenta (21108).
Child’s mittens with string

Simple stitches in bright colors create the perfect accessory for a little boy
or girl. Constructed in spirals of single crochet, these mittens work up in next
to no time and are ideal for beginners.
NOTE You may find it useful to mark the last Thumb opening
st of first 4 rounds with a stitch marker. NEXT ROUND Ch 6, miss 6 sc, sc to end of
PROJECTS Do not join rounds, but place a marker at the round (this is first of 6 ch).
For more beginner patterns first stitch of the round, moving it up as each NEXT ROUND 1 sc in each of 6 ch, sc to end.
>> go to pages 28, 36, and 64 round is completed to mark the beginning Work sc in each st for 3 further rounds.
of each round. Fasten off A.
Join B into any sc, work 2 rounds of sc in B,
Essential information Pattern (make 2) fasten off B.
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in first ch to Join C into any sc, work 2 rounds of sc in C,
form a ring. fasten off C.
SIZE To fit a child, age 6–10 years ROUND 1 6 sc into ring. (6sts) Rejoin A to any sc, work 3 rounds of sc in A.
ROUND 2 2 sc in each st. (12sts) Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.
YARN You can use any soft 4-ply to DK weight
ROUND 3 *1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, rep
yarn with a synthetic content for durability to
from * to end of round. (18sts) Thumb
achieve a similar effect
ROUND 4 *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep Join A to any point around thumb opening.
from * to end of round. (24sts) Work 12 sc evenly around gap.
ROUND 5 ONWARD Continue to work in sc until Working in sc, continue to work in a spiral
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 piece measures 3in (8cm). until thumb measures 13⁄8in (3.5cm).
NEXT ROUND sc2tog to end of round. (6sts)
CROCHET HOOK D/3 US (3.25mm) hook Cut off yarn leaving a long tail, thread tail
onto a yarn needle then thread through
remaining stitches, pull tight, and fasten off.
Yarn needle
Join A into a sc on last round of first mitten,
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential make 100 ch (or to desired length), ss into any
st on last round of second mitten.
>> These mittens are made with Debbie Bliss Baby

Cashmerino, 137yds/125m/50g, in A: Sky (340032),
B: Rose (340054), and C: Lime (340018).
The joining string is 100 chain stitches long, but you

can lengthen or shorten it to suit the height of your
child by simply adding or omitting stitches.
Ladies’ wrist warmers

These vibrant and practical wrist warmers have a pretty, three-dimensional
texture created by puff stitches and a crochet rib using raised doubles.
Rep row 1 three times.

ROW 8 Ch 3, (1 dc, 1 puff) 7 times, hdc to end
PROJECTS of row, turn.
For more puff stitch patterns Rep row 1 three times.
>> go to page 142 ROWS 1218 As rows 4–11.
ROW 19 As row 1.
Fasten off yarn, leaving long end for sewing
Essential information up seam.

Left glove
SIZE Approx 8 (83⁄4:91⁄2)in (20 [22:24])cm ROW 1 RS Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end, turn.
Rep last row twice more.
YARN Any DK weight yarn will substitute here
ROW 4 Ch 3, hdc to last 16 sts, (1 puff, 1 dc)
8 times, turn.
These wrist warmers are made from two basic
Rep row 1 three times.
rectangles sewn together with gaps left for thumb
x2 ROW 8 Ch 3, hdc to last 15 sts, (1 puff, 1 dc)
holes. Turn to pages 70–71 for details about seams.
7 times, 1 dc into last st, turn.
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook Rep row 1 three times.
same st. 9 loops on hook, yo, and draw loop ROWS 1218 As rows 4–11.
GAUGE 18 dc to 4in (10cm) square
through all loops on hook. Puff completed. ROW 19 As row 1.
NOTIONS Yarn needle Fasten off yarn, leaving long end for sewing
up seam.
RDCF: raised double front: At the front of the
Pattern
Work 32 (35:40) ch. Finishing
work, yo, insert hook from right to left, around the
ROW 1 1 dc into third ch from hook and into Fold each glove in half lengthways so that
post of the double stitch on the previous row, yo,
each ch to end. Turn. (29 (33:37)sts) right sides face each other, then sew up side
draw through, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,
ROW 2 Ch 3 (counts as first RdcB), *1 RdcF, seam 2in (5cm) down from top, fasten off
yo, draw through last 2 loops on hook, therefore
1 RdcB; rep from * to end of row. yarn, and reattach approx 21⁄2in (6cm) further
making a double stitch.
ROW 3 Ch 3 (counts as first RdcF), *1 RdcB, down the seam, to allow space for thumb,
RDCB: raised double back. At the back of the
1 RdcF; rep from * to end of row. checking that the distance is correct to fit
work, yo, insert hook from right to left, around the
Rep last two rows until rib measures approx your hand. Sew up remainder of seam down
post of the double stitch on the previous row, yo,
3in (8cm), or desired length. to bottom of rib.
draw through, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook,
yo, draw through last 2 loops on hook, therefore
Right glove
making a double stitch.
ROW 1 RS Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end, turn.
PUFF STITCH: *yo, insert into st, yo and draw loop
Rep last row twice more.
through the stitch, drawing loop up to the height
ROW 4 Ch 3, (1 puff, 1 dc) 8 times, hdc to end >> These wrist warmers are made with Classic Elite Yarns
of the sts in the row; rep from * 4 times into the
of row, turn. Inca Alpaca, 109yds/100m/50g, in Morning glory (1163).
Baby girl’s booties

These little shoes make the perfect baby shower gift. They are worked up in a
single piece in a round, from the middle of the sole and up to the sides, with the
strap added afterward. A contrasting-color trim and a button complete the look.
ROUND 2 Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, 2 hdc in 1 hdc, ss into second ch. (43sts)
next st 3 times, 6 sc, 2 sc in next 2 sts, ss ROUND 12 Ch 1 (does not count as st), 13 sc,
PROJECTS in first st. (24sts) sc3tog, 12 sc, sc3tog, 10 sc, sc2tog, ss into
For more patterns in the round ROUND 3 Ch 1, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, *1 hdc, first st. (38sts)
>> go to pages 176, 192, and 198 2 hdc in next st; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, Fasten off.
**1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from ** 1 more time,
ss in first st. (30sts) Straps
Essential information ROUND 4 Ch 1, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, *2 hdc, For the right shoe, count 3 sts from the left
2 hdc in next st; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, side sc3tog from row 12, then attach yarn A.
**2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from ** 1 more time, For the left shoe, count 1 st from the right
SIZE To fit a baby, age 3–6 months ss in first st. (36sts) side sc3tog from row 12, then attach yarn A.
ROUND 5 Ch 1, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, *3 hdc, ROW 1 Ch 1, 2 sc. (2sts)
YARN Any DK weight yarn with some cotton
2 hdc in next st; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, ROWS 212 Turn work, 1 ch, 2 sc.
content for added structure will be perfect here
**3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from ** 1 more time, ROW 13 8 ch, ss into last st to make a loop.
ss in first st. (42sts) Fasten off.
ROUND 6 Ch 1, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, *4 hdc,
Ax1 Bx1 2 hdc in next st; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, Trim
**4 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from ** 1 more time, With yarn B, work an even trim of reverse
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook ss in first st. (48sts) single crochet, or crab stitch, (see p. 144)
ROUND 7 Ch 1, 5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, *5 hdc, along the top edge of the shoe, going all
NOTIONS Yarn needle
2 hdc in next st; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, around the strap.
GAUGE 10 sts x 2in (5cm) **5 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from ** 1 more time,
ss in first st. (54sts) Button (make 2)
With yarn B, make an adjustable ring (see
Pattern Sides p. 132).
After completing round 7, measure the length ROUND 8 Ch 2 (counts as first st), 53 hdc, ss ROUND 1 6 sc into the ring, pull ring tight. (6sts)
of the sole—it should be approx 4–41⁄4in into second ch (for smaller shoe size, replace ROUND 2 2 sc in each st. (12sts)
(10–11cm) long. Ss into starting ch at end all hdc stitches with sc stitches). (54sts) ROUND 3 sc in each st.
of each round. ROUND 9 Ch 2 (counts as first st), 12 hdc, ROUND 4 sc2tog across all sts. (6sts)
hdc2tog, 17 hdc, hdc2tog, 15 hdc, hdc2tog, Sew up button opening and sew to shoes.
Sole 3 hdc, ss into second ch. (51sts) Weave in loose ends.
With yarn A, work 9 ch, starting in second ROUND 10 Ch 2 (counts as first st), 12 hdc,
ch from hook. hdc2tog, 16 hdc, hdc2tog, 14 hdc, hdc2tog,
ROUND 1 7 sc, 3 sc in next st, do not turn, 2 hdc, ss into second ch. (48sts) >> These booties are made with Rowan Wool
continue in back loops of foundation ch, 6 sc, ROUND 11 Ch 2 (counts as first st), 12 hdc, Cotton DK, 124yds/113m/50g, in A: Flower (943)
2 sc in last st, ss in first st. (18sts) hdc3tog, 14 hdc, hdc3tog, 12 hdc, hdc2tog, and B: Tender (951).
For a smaller shoe to fit a 0–3 month
old, measuring 31⁄2 x 21⁄2in (9 x 6cm),
swap the hdc stitches for sc stitches
where pattern indicates. Alternatively,
stop making the sole part when you get
to the length you need, and go on to
make sides, matching the number of
decreases in each round.
DIFFICULTY LEVEL Easy/Intermediate CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook
SIZE To fit a child, age 3–6 months NOTIONS Yarn needle

For a smaller shoe, see caption on page 217 2 small pieces of Velcro®
Sewing needle and thread
YARN You can use any DK weight yarn with some
cotton content for structure SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
RAISED SINGLE CROCHET BACK (RSCB):
See p. 194
Ax1 Bx1 GAUGE 10 sts per 2in (5cm)

Baby boy’s booties 219
Baby boy’s booties

These booties are worked in a round, with a raised contrast color strip
separating sole from sides and a chunky strap to keep them on tiny feet.
Using Velcro® to fasten makes them really easy to put on and take off, too!
Pattern Sides
Measure the length of the sole after ROUND 8 Ch 1, 54 rscb, ss into first st.
PROJECTS completing round 7—it should be approx ROUND 9 Ch 1, 54 rscb, ss into first st.
For more shoe patterns 4–41⁄4in (10–11cm). ROUND 10 Change to yarn A, 1 ch, 54 sc,
>> go to pages 216, 220, and 222 ss into first st.
Sole ROUND 11 Ch 1, 54 sc, ss into first st.
With yarn A, work 9 ch, starting in second ch ROUND 12 Ch 1, 13 sc, *dc2tog, 3 dc;
from hook. rep from * 3 more times, dc2tog, 17 sc, sc2tog.
ROUND 1 7 sc, 3 sc in next st, rotate through (48sts)
180 degrees and continue along the back loop ROUND 13 Ch 1, 13 sc, *dc2tog, 2 dc;
of the chains, 6 sc, 2 sc in last st, ss in first st. rep from * 3 more times, dc2tog, 15 sc, sc2tog.
(18sts) (42sts)
ROUND 2 Ch 1, 1 sc inc, 6 sc, 3 dc inc, 6 sc, ROUND 14 Ch 1, 13 sc, *dc2tog, 1 dc;
sc inc in each of last 2 sc, ss in first st. (24sts) rep from * 3 more times, dc2tog, 13 sc, sc2tog.
ROUND 3 Ch 1, 1 sc, 1 sc inc, 6 sc, *1 dc, (36sts)
1 dc inc; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, ROUND 15 Ch 1, 13 sc, 5 dc2tog, 13 sc,
**1 sc, 1 sc inc; rep from ** 1 more time, ss into first st. (31sts)
ss in first st. (30sts) Fasten off.
ROUND 4 Ch 1, 2 sc, 1 sc inc, 6 sc, *2 dc,
1 dc inc; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, Straps
For a rigid shoe, use a cotton-based yarn that will **2 sc, 1 sc inc; rep from ** 1 more time, With yarn A, work 9 ch, starting in second
create a stiff fabric. For a softer feel, try a pure merino ss in first st. (36sts) ch from hook.
yarn. Refer to page 50 for instructions on how to work ROUND 5 Ch 1, 3 sc, 1 sc inc, 6 sc, *3 dc, ROW 1 8 sc. (8sts)
single crochet increases. 1 dc inc; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, ROWS 212 turn work, ch 1, 8 sc.
**3 sc, 1 sc inc; rep from ** 1 more time, ROW 13 sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog. (6sts)
ss in first st. (42sts) ROW 14 sc2tog, 2 sc, sc2tog. (4sts)
<< These booties are made with Rowan Wool Cotton
ROUND 6 Ch 1, 4 sc, 1 sc inc, 6 sc, *4 dc, ROW 15 2 sc2tog. (2sts) Fasten off.
DK, 124yds/113m/50g, in A: Ship shape (955) and
B: Clear (941). 1 dc inc; rep from * 2 more times, 6 sc, Add some surface crochet stripes in chain
**4 sc, 1 sc inc; rep from ** 1 more time, stitch on the rounded edge for decoration,
ss in first st. (48sts) in yarn B.
ROUND 7 Change to yarn B, 1 ch, 5 sc, 1 sc inc,
6 sc, *5 dc, 1 dc inc; rep from * 2 more times, 6 Finishing
sc, **5 sc, 1 sc inc; rep from ** 1 more time, Sew the straps onto the shoes. Cut two small
ss in first st. (54sts) squares of Velcro® and sew on to secure the
rounded edge of the strap down.
Weave in loose ends.
Child’s edged slippers 221
Child’s edged slippers

These cuffed slippers are worked in the round, then crocheted flat before
rejoining to create the slipper shape. The foot length is adjustable and, because
the slipper is worked from the toe, it is easy to custom-fit.
Pattern (make 2) working in sc, work 1 row evenly around top
With 7 US (4.5mm) hook and yarn A, work 4 piece of slipper, working 1 st into each row
PROJECTS ch, join with a ss to form a ring. and each st across front of toe, ss into top of
For more single crochet patterns ROUND 1 6 sc into ring, do not join, continue first sc to join.
>> go pages 194, 216, and 278 working in a spiral using stitch marker to NEXT ROW Place markers in center 2 toe
indicate the last st of each round (remove stitches. Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc to
and replace after last sc of each round). first marker, turn 1 ch, sc to second marker.
Essential information Do not turn, continue to work in a spiral Continue working back and forth in sc, leaving
with RS facing. the center two stitches unworked.
ROUND 2 Work 2 sc in each sc. (12sts) Continue until cuff measures 3⁄4 (1:11⁄4)in/
SIZE To fit a child, age 2–3 (4–5:6–7) years ROUND 3 *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep 2 (2.5:3cm). For a longer cuff, work more rows
from * to end. (18sts) here.
YARN Any aran weight yarn would suit
FINAL ROW Dc to first marker, remove markers,
this project
MEDIUM AND LARGE SIZES ONLY sc2tog, sc to end. Fasten off yarn.
ROUND 4 *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep
from * to end. (24sts) Trim
Ax2 Bx1 With E/4 US (3.5mm) hook and B, join yarn to
LARGE SIZE ONLY wrong side of top edge, work 2 rows of sc to finish.
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) and 7 US ROUND 5 *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends.
(4.5mm) hooks from * to end. (30sts) Fold over cuff and sew in place.

ALL SIZES
Yarn needle
At the end of round 3 (4:5), continue to work
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential in a spiral without increasing until toe
measures 21⁄2 (23⁄4:3)in/6 (7:8)cm. Turn.
Remainder of the sole is worked flat.
ROW 1 Ch 1, sc in second ch from hook, sc to
last 6 (6:8) sc, turn 12 (18:22) sc.
ROW 2 Dc to end.
Continue to work in sc until sole measures
5 (51⁄2:61⁄4)in/12 (14:16)cm from round 1.
Fasten off A.
With RS facing, sew heel seam.
<< These slippers are made from Valley Yarns Valley
Turn slipper right way out and continue with
Superwash, 97yds/89m/50g, in A: Colonial blue (502) RS facing. The approximate foot length for each of the three
and Berroco Comfort, 178yd/165m/50g, in With 7 US (4.5mm) hook, rejoin A to center sizes of slipper measures 5in (12cm), 51⁄2in (14cm),
B: Chalk (2700). of heel seam, 1 ch (does not count as a st), and 61⁄4in (16cm).
SIZE To fit female, US shoe sizes 51⁄2– 61⁄2 (71⁄2:81⁄2)
YARN You can use any aran chunky-weight yarn

for a look similar for this project
Ax1 Bx1

Yarn needle

Ladies’ soft slippers 223
Ladies’ soft slippers

A simple but stylish way to keep your toes cozy indoors. Play with color
and brighten up dull days with a splash of neon or choose neutral shades
for understated elegance.
into next st, remove marker, 3 dc into next st (dc2tog) 2 times, sc to 3 sts before marked
(replace marker in center dc), 2 dc into next st, stitch, hdc2tog, hdc3tog, hdc2tog, sc to last
PROJECTS 1 hdc, sc to last 4 sts, 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st. 5 sts, (dc2tog) 2 times, sc to end. Join to top
For more half double crochet patterns Do not join and do not turn. (50 (54:58)sts) of first sc. (38 (42:46)sts)
>> go to pages 40 and 206 ROUND 4 1 hdc, 3 hdc into next st, 1 hdc in
next st, 2 hdc in next st, 3 hdc, sc to 6 sts SHOE SIZES 7½ AND 8½ ONLY
before marker, 3 hdc, (2 hdc into next st) 2 ROUND 7 Ch 2 (counts as stitch), hdc to first
Pattern times, 2 dc into next st, remove marker, 3 dc before marker, hdc3tog, hdc to end. (40 (44)sts)
The sole is worked in spirals; do not join at into next st (replace marker in center st), 2 dc
end of each round and do not turn. When into next st, (2 hdc into next st) 2 times, 3 ALL SIZES
the sole is completed, yarn A is fastened off hdc, sc to last 4 sts, 3 hdc, 2 hdc in next st. Do ROUND 8 Dc to end.
and yarn B joined into the same stitch to not join and do not turn. (62 (66:70)sts) ROUND 9 (optional for narrow feet) Work
make the upper. Ss into next 3 sts, fasten off A. 1 ss into each sc to end.
Sole (make 2) Upper (make 2) Block lightly by spraying with water and
ROUND 1 With yarn A, work 18 (20:22) ch, Join B into last ss. stuffing with cotton to create shape.
3 sc in third ch from hook, 10 (12:14) sc, 4 dc, ROUND 1 1 sc in each st to end, join with
5 dc into last ch, place marker in top of third a ss to top of first sc. (62 (66:70)sts)
dc (remove and replace this marker on ROUND 2 Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch),
subsequent rounds as indicated), do not 1 sc TBL in each sc to end, join to top of first
turn but work into the opposite side of the sc. (62 (66:70)sts)
foundation ch for rem sts, 4 dc, 10 (12:14) sc, ROUND 3 Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), 6 (7:8)
2 sc in same st as initial 3 sc. Do not join hdc, 16 sc, 2 (3:4) hdc, (hdc2tog) 2 times,
and do not turn, place a second marker in hdc3tog place marker to indicate center toe
last st (remove and replace on subsequent stitch, (hdc2tog) 2 times, 2 (3:4) hdc, sc to last
rounds to mark last st). (38 (42:46)sts) 8 (9:10) sts, 8 (9:10) hdc, join to top of first
ROUND 2 3 hdc, sc to first before first marker, hdc. (56 (60:64)sts)
2 hdc into next st, 3 dc into next st (remove ROUND 4 Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 sc in
and replace marker in center dc), 2 hdc into same sp as 1 ch, 2 sc, (dc2tog) 3 times, sc to
next st, sc to last 2 sts, 2 hdc, do not join or last 8 sts, (dc2tog) 3 times, sc to end (remove
turn, place marker in last hdc. (42 (46:50)sts) and replace marker when you reach it), join
ROUND 3 3 hdc into next st, 2 hdc into next st, with a ss to top of first sc. (50 (54:58)sts)
3 hdc, sc to 2 sts before marker, 1 hdc, 2 dc ROUND 5 Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc to
These slippers are designed to be snug at first
7 sts before marker, 4 hdc, hdc2tog, hdc3tog, because the yarn will “give” with wear. If in doubt
(remove and replace marker), hdc2tog, 4 hdc, about which size to make, opt for the smaller size.
<< Use Berroco Ultra Alpaca, 215yds/198m/100g, sc to end, join to top of first sc. (46 (50:54)sts) Choose a dark color for the sole, since it’s more
in A: Salt and pepper (6207) and B: Cyclamen (6258). ROUND 6 Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 3 sc, practical than a lighter shade.
SIZE To fit female, US shoe sizes 61⁄2–91⁄2
YARN You can substitute any DK-weight sock

yarn for this project, preferably with nylon
x1
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2.5mm) and C/2 US

(3mm) hooks
NOTIONS 2 stitch markers, yarn needle

Ladies’ ankle socks 225
Ladies’ ankle socks

These pretty, comfortable socks are worked in the round from the cuff down,
using an alternating pattern of single crochet and double crochet stitches. The
tip of the toe and the heel are reinforced by using single crochet.
Work in rows of sc until heel flap measures
2in (5cm).
PROJECTS
For more single crochet patterns Turn the heel
>> go to pages 34, 162, and 260 ROW 1 Ch 1, 13 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, turn.
ROW 2 6 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, turn.
ROW 3 Dc to 1 st from end of prev row, sc2tog
Pattern (make 2) (your second st of the sc2tog will be the next
Work the cuff-ribbing sideways. sc, which is 2 rows below), 1 sc, turn.
Rep row 3, 5 times. (14sts)
Cuff-ribbing (worked sideways)
With B/1 US (2.5mm) hook, work 10 ch. Foot
ROW 1 1 hdc in third ch from hook, 1 hdc in ROUND 1 14 sc, evenly work 10 sc in side of heel
each ch to end, turn. (8sts) rows, place marker, 1 sc, *1 dc, 1 sc, rep from *
ROW 2 1 hdc TBL in each st to end, turn. across to other side of heel, 1 dc, place marker,
Rep row 2 a further 28 times. (30 rows) evenly work 12 sc into sides of heel rows, place Adjust the size of these socks by adding or
Using ss all along row, join first row to last marker to indicate end of round. (59sts) subtracting stitches in multiples of two, in the round,
row to form a large ring. ROUND 2 20 sc, (sc2tog) twice, 1 dc, *1 sc, 1 dc, to change the foot circumference, or by working the
rep from * to marker, 1 sc, (sc2tog) twice, sc to foot longer or shorter to adjust the length.
Cuff to heel end marker. (55sts)
Turn ribbing 90 degrees, so you are working ROUND 3 (1 sc, 1 dc) 9 times, sc2tog, dc2tog, 1 sc, slip marker (put it into the new loop
into the sides of the rows on the cuff. 1 sc, *1 dc, 1 sc, rep from * to marker, 1 sc, on your hook to mark the start of the next
ROUND 1 With C/2 US (3mm) hook, work dc2tog, sc2tog, (1 dc, 1 sc) twice, 1 dc. (51sts) round), 1 sc, sc2tog, rep from * once, sc to end
45 sc evenly around the cuff, place marker to ROUND 4 (1 dc, 1 sc) 8 times, dc2tog, sc2tog, of round. (42sts)
indicate end of round. 1 dc, *1 sc, 1 dc, rep from * to marker, 1 dc, Rep round 2, 3 times. (On the last round there
You are now working in continuous rounds. sc2tog, dc2tog, (1 sc, 1 dc) twice. (47sts) will be no sc after the last sc2tog). (30sts)
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 1 dc, rep from * to marker, 1 sc. Remove all but ending marker. Remove end marker.
ROUND 3 *1 dc, 1 sc, rep from * to marker, 1 dc. ROUND 5 *1 sc, 1 dc, rep from * to last st, 1 sc. ROUND 3 *sc to 3 sts from marker, sc2tog,
Rep rounds 2 and 3 until sock measures 71⁄2in ROUND 6 *1 dc, 1 sc, rep from * to last st, 1 dc. 1 sc, slip marker, 1 sc, sc2tog, rep from
(19cm), making sure to end on a round 3. Rep last 2 rounds until sock measures 9in * once. (26sts)
(23cm). ROUND 4 Rep round 3. (22sts)
Heel Fasten off, leaving a long end.
ROW 1 22 sc, turn. Toe
ROW 2 1 ch, 22 sc, turn. ROUND 1 16 sc, sc2tog, place marker, 1 sc, Finishing
sc2tog, 23 sc, place marker, sc to end of round. Turn sock inside out and using the end left
<< These socks are made with Regia Angora Merino (46sts) from fastening off, ss across both thicknesses
4-ply, 219yds/200m/50g, in Aqua (07082). ROUND 2 *sc to 3 sts from marker, sc2tog, of toe sts to seam together. Weave in ends.
SIZE To fit a male, US shoe sizes 9–12
YARN You can use any DK-weight wool/

acrylic blend yarn to achieve a similar effect
Ax1 Bx1
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2.5mm) and D/3 US

(3mm) hooks

Yarn needle
LHDC: linked half double. On starting st,
insert hook into second ch of starting ch, yo,
draw through, insert hook into st, yo, draw
through st, yo, draw through all loops on
hook. For each st after that as follows:
insert hook into horizontal bar in st before,
yo, draw through, insert hook into st, yo, draw
through st, yo, draw through all loops on hook.
LHDC2TOG: linked half double 2 together.
Insert hook into horizontal bar in st before,
yo, draw through, insert hook into next st,
yo, draw through st, insert hook into next
st, yo, draw through st, yo, draw through
all loops on hook.
Men’s chunky socks 227
Men’s chunky socks

These warm socks are made in the round, worked from the cuff down,
with a contrasting color used on the ribbing, heel, and toe, and worked
in stripes to add extra detailing.
ROUND 4 Rep round 2, change to yarn A. marker, work lhdc in each lhdc across the
ROUND 5 Rep round 2, change to yarn B. front of foot, place marker. (50sts)
PROJECTS ROUND 6 Rep round 3. (44sts) You are now working in continuous rounds
For more single crochet patterns ROUND 7 Rep round 2, change to yarn A. of lhdc again.
>> go to pages 64 and 176 ROUND 8 Rep round 2, do not join. ROUND 2 Lhdc2tog, 1 lhdc, lhdc2tog, 18 lhdc,
From now on, work in continuous rounds lhdc2tog, 1 lhdc, lhdc2tog, slip marker, lhdc in
throughout. each st to next marker. (46sts)
Socks (make 2) ROUND 9 1 lhdc, lhdc2tog, lhdc in each st to ROUND 3 Lhdc2tog, 1 lhdc, lhdc2tog, 14 lhdc,
Adjust the size by adding or subtracting 2 sts from marker, lhdc2tog. (42sts) lhdc2tog, 1 lhdc, lhdc2tog, remove marker,
stitches in the round to change the Work straight in continuous rounds of lhdc in each st to next marker. (42sts)
circumference, or by working the foot lhdc until sock measures 63⁄4in (17cm) ROUND 4 Lhdc in each st to end of round.
longer or shorter to adjust the length. from cuff edge. Work in continuous rounds of lhdc until sock
measures 10in (25cm) from heel.
Cuff ribbing (worked sideways) Heel
With B/1 US (2.5mm) hook and yarn B, 1 hdc ROW 1 22 lhdc (do NOT fasten off yarn A, as Toe
in each ch to end, turn. (12sts) you will pick this up again later on the foot). ROUND 1 With yarn B, 21 sc, place marker,
ROW 2 1 hdc TBL in each st to end, turn. With yarn B, 20 sc, turn. sc to end of round.
Rep row 2 a further 46 times. (48 rows) ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc to end, turn. ROUND 2 Sc2tog, *sc to 2 sts from marker,
Using ss all along row, join first row to last Rep row 2 until heel measures 21⁄2in (6cm). sc2tog**, slip marker, sc2tog, rep from *
row to form a large ring. between * and **. (38sts)
Turn the heel Rep round 2, 6 times. (14sts)
Cuff to heel ROW 1 Ch 1, 12 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, turn. Fasten off, leaving a long end.
Turn ribbing 90 degrees, so you are working ROW 2 Ch 1, 6 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, turn.
into the sides of the rows on the cuff. ROW 3 Sc to 1 st from end of prev row, sc2tog Finishing
ROUND 1 With D/3 US (3mm) hook and yarn (your second st of the sc2tog will be the next Turn sock inside out and using the end
A, 2 ch, 1 lhdc in each row side to end, change sc which is 2 rows below), 1 sc, turn. left from fastening off, ss across both
to yarn B, join, place stitch marker to indicate Rep row 3 until you reach the end of the heel thicknesses of toe sts to seam together.
end of round. (48sts) stitches, there will be no sc after the sc2tog Weave in ends.
ROUND 2 Ch 2, lhdc in each st to end, change at the end of your last 2 rows. (12sts)
to yarn A, join. Fasten off.
ROUND 3 Ch 2, lhdc2tog, lhdc in each st to 2sts
from marker, lhdc2tog, change to yarn B, join. Foot
(46sts) ROUND 1 With yarn A, left in place at
beginning of heel, 2 ch, work 8 lhdc evenly up
the side of the heel, 1 lhdc in each of the sts
<< These socks are made with Regia 6-ply DK, from the heel turn and 8 lhdc evenly placed
137yds/125m/50g, in A: Flannel and B: Anthracite. down the other side of the heel flap; place
What to wear
Baby’s crossover cardigan 231
Baby’s crossover cardigan

This sweet, wrap-around cardigan is worked in half double crochet and crosses
over from left to right, as well as right to left. The crocheted ties can be altered
as your child grows, to extend the life of your lovingly made garment.
Pattern ROW 24 Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc to the
The fronts and back of this cardigan are end, no hdc into the top of the 2 ch. (49sts)
PROJECTS worked in one piece. ROWS 2538 Rep row 24.
For more half double crochet patterns
>> go to pages 40 and 206 Front and back Neck shaping
ROW 1 Work 150 ch, hdc into the third ch ROW 39 Ch 2, hdc in the same st, and hdc in
from the hook, hdc into the rest of the ch. the next 9 hdc. (10sts)
Essential information (148 hdc, 2 ch) Fasten off.
ROW 2 Ch 2, hdc in each hdc, no hdc into top Skip 29 hdc, rejoin yarn.
of 2 ch. (148 hdc) Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc in the next 9 sts.
SIZE To fit a child, age 12–18 months ROW 3 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in the rest of the Fasten off.
hdc, no hdc into top of 2 ch. (146 hdc)
YARN You can use any wool or wool mix, 4-ply to
Repeat row 3 until you have 108 hdc.
sportweight yarn for this project
Start dividing, first front, keep in pattern.
First front
x4 ROW 23 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in the next 24 sts.
(25sts)
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook ROW 24 Ch 2, hdc to end, no hdc into top of
2 ch. (24sts)
GAUGE 18 sts x 13 rows to 4in (10cm)
ROW 25 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc into each hdc, hdc
NOTIONS Safety pins into 2 ch. (23sts)
Yarn needle Repeat rows 24–25 until you have 11 sts.
ROW 38 Ch 2, hdc in the same place as 2 ch,
hdc to end, not in top of 2 ch. (11sts)
HALF DOUBLE DECREASE: yo, put hook in next
Fasten off leaving a 12in (30cm) tail for
st, and pull through yarn (3 loops on the hook),
sewing up.
yo, insert hook in the next st, and pull through
yarn (5 loops on the hook), yo, and pull through
Back
all loops.
Skip 4 st on row 22 from edge of first front. Half double crochet makes a thick, dense fabric
Rejoin yarn. that is perfect for clothes. Lightweight, soft baby yarn,
ROW 23 Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc in the as used here, also makes this cardigan both a great
next 48 sts, turn. (49sts) summer and winter cover-up.
<< This cardigan is made with Debbie Bliss

Baby Cashmerino, 137yds/125m/50g, in
Baby blue (340204).
232 What to wear
Second front 27 hdc, turn. (27sts)

Skip 4 sts on row 22 from edge of back. ROW 28 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to last
Rejoin yarn. 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. (24sts)
ROW 23 Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc to end. Repat row 28 until you have 12 hdc.
(25sts) Fasten off.
ROW 24 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to end, no hdc into
top of 2 ch. (23sts) Finishing
ROW 25 Ch 2, hdc in the same st, hdc to end. Sew the shoulder seams together using
(23sts) backstitch. Whipstitch the sleeve seams together.
Repeat rows 24–25 until you have 11 sts. With safety pins, pin the sleeve into the arm
ROW 38 Ch 2, hdc in the next 10 hdc. (10sts) hole. The first pin should have the sleeve seam
Fasten off leaving a 12in (30cm) tail for between the missed st on row 23 and the
sewing up. middle of the sleeve cap in line with the
shoulder seam. Ease the rest of the sleeve in
Sleeves (make 2) place, then whip st the two pieces together.
ROW 1 Make 31 ch, hdc in third ch from the Repeat for the other sleeve.
hook, hdc in each ch, turn. (29sts)
ROW 2 Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each hdc, Edging
do not hdc in top of 2 ch throughout. Join the yarn to the center back of the neck
(29sts) and work sc all around the garment, working
ROW 3 As row 2. (29sts) 3 sc to 2 rows of hdc on the fronts, joining to
The beauty of crocheting the ties on this cardigan
ROW 4 Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st (inc made), hdc the first sc with a ss.
is that you won’t need to sew on ribbons or strips of
fabric that tiny fingers might pull off. Work your chain
in each hdc to end. (30sts) Work sc round the bottom of the sleeve
stitches with an even tension (see pp. 24–25) for Repeat rows 2–4 until you have 35 hdc. joining to the first sc with a ss.
a neat finish. ROW 20 Rep row 2. (35sts)
ROW 21 As row 20. (35sts) Ties
ROW 22 Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, hdc in each hdc Attach yarn to first st on the bottom of the
to last st, 2 hdc in last st. (37sts) garment, work 40 ch, fasten off, weave in
Repeat rows 20–22 once. (39sts) ends. Repeat at the last st. Make a 40-ch tie
ROW 26 Rep row 2. (39sts) 10in (25cm) from the beginning ch and
ROW 27 1 ch, ss across 6 st, 2 ch, hdc in next 10in (25cm) from the other end, and also
on row 20, where fronts cross over.
Block the garment lig

htl y
before
TOP
sewing up. TIP
234 What to wear
Child’s poncho
A giant granny square makes a colorful and cozy poncho with a square in the
middle to go over the head. For more information about crocheting a granny
square, turn to pages 102–103.
Pattern and fasten off. Weave in ends. (6 x 3 dc groups
ROW 1 With yarn A, make a slip knot 4in between corners)
PROJECTS (10cm) from the end of the yarn, work 75 ch, ROWS 416 Repeat row 3 in following colors.
For more granny square patterns dc into the fourth ch from the hook (first 4 ch You will have one more 3 dc group on each
>> go to pages 154, 168, and 302 count as a dc st), dc in the next ch, *1 ch, dc in side of the square on each row.
the next 3 ch, repeat from * to the end (24 x ROW 4 Yarn D. (7 x 3 dc)
3 dc groups), 1 ch, ss to the top of the 3 ch. ROW 5 Yarn E. (8 x 3 dc)
Essential information Make sure you do not twist the row, fasten off ROW 6 Yarn A. (9 x 3 dc)
and weave in end. With the 4in (10cm) tail, ROW 7 Yarn B. (10 x 3 dc)
join to the fourth ch and sew in end. ROW 8 Yarn F. (11 x 3 dc)
SIZE To fit a child, age 4–9 years Put stitch markers in first, 7th, 13th, and 19th ROW 9 Yarn C. (12 x 3 dc)
ch sp leaving 5-ch sp between each 2 markers. ROW 10 Yarn E. (13 x 3 dc)
YARN You can use any DK yarn for a similar look
These mark where the corners will be. ROW 11 Yarn A. (14 x 3 dc)
to this project
ROW 2 Join yarn B at first marked ch sp, work ROW 12 Yarn D. (15 x 3 dc)
(3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in same ch sp to make ROW 13 Yarn B. (16 x 3 dc)
the first corner, 1 ch, *(3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ROW 14 Yarn C. (17 x 3 dc)
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 ch) 5 times**, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in next ch sp, 1 ROW 15 Yarn E. (18 x 3 dc)
ch; repeat from * twice, then from * to ** once, ROW 16 Yarn F. (19 x 3 dc)
ss into the top of the 3 ch at the beginning of ROWS 1732 Repeat color sequence again.
the round, fasten off and sew in ends. ROW 33 With yarn A, work in sc all around the
Ex2 Fx2 (20 x 3 dc groups and 4 corner groups) edges, working 5 sc at the corners, fasten off
ROW 3 Join yarn C to 3-ch corner sp, work with an invisible join.
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook (3 ch, 2 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) in same ch sp, 1 ch, *(3 >> This poncho is made with Berroco Vintage DK,
dc in next ch sp, 1 ch) to next corner**, (3 dc, 288yds/263m/100g, in A: Dewberry (2167),
3 ch, 3 dc) in 3-ch corner sp, 1 ch; rep from * B: Pool party (21107), C: Bubble (21107), D: Fondant
Yarn needle
twice, then from * to ** once, ss to top of 3 ch (2110), E: Mushroom (2104), and F: Minty (2112).
GAUGE 4 x 3 dc groups to 4in (10cm), 9 rows
to 4in (10cm) Using a yarn that is 100
percent wool makes this a
warm and snuggly garment
for a child. Choose colors
carefully for a harmonious
effect and use the same color
for the neckline and the single
crochet edging along the
bottom to give a coherent feel.
Striped sweater 237
Striped sweater
This versatile garment is made in the round, working from the bottom up.
The sleeves are then joined to the body and the yoke is shaped using raglan
style decreases (see pp. 52–53).
Pattern
This garment is given in three sizes, with the
PROJECTS smallest size first. The larger sizes are shown
For more patterns in the round in parentheses.
>> go to pages 174 and 184
Body
With yarn A and larger hook, work 108
Essential information (112:116) ch, being careful not to twist,
join first ch to last ch with ss to create
a large ring.
SIZE To fit a child, age 3-4 (4-5:6-7) years ROUND 1 With E/4 US (3.5mm) hook, 1 ch, 1
sc in each ch to end, join to top of ch 1 with ss,
YARN You can use any DK weight merino-mix yarn
place stitch marker to indicate end of round.
(108(112:116)sts)
ROUND 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end, join.
Rep round 2 until piece measures 11⁄4in (3cm).
NEXT ROUND Ch 3, 1 dc, in each st to end of
A x 3 (3:5) B x 1 (1:1) C x 1 (2:2)
round, join.
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) and G/6 US Rep last round another 2 (4:4) times.
(4mm) hooks Continuing to work in straight rounds of dc,
work as follows: To check whether this sweater will fit your child,
1 round in yarn B. the exact measurements are as follows: to fit chest
Yarn needle
2 rounds in yarn C. size 23 (24:25)in/58.5 (61:63.5)cm, and with a sleeve
GAUGE 16 sts x 8.5 rows per 4in (10cm) 1 round in yarn B. length of 151⁄4 (161⁄4:17)in/39 (41:43)cm.
6 (7:7) rounds in yarn A.
1 round in yarn B.
2 rounds in yarn C.
1 round in yarn B.
1 (1:2) rounds in yarn A.
Fasten off.
Sleeves (make 2)
With yarn A and G/6 US (4mm) hook, work
28 (29:29) ch, being careful not to twist, join
<< This sweater is made with Debbie Bliss Baby first ch to last ch with ss, to create a large ring.
Cashmerino DK, 137yds/125m/50g, in A: Royal (70), ROUND 1 Using smaller hook, 1 ch, 1 sc in each
B: Pool (71), and C: White (100). ch to end, join. (28 (29:29)sts)
238 What to wear
ROUND 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end, join. sts, marked st, 44 (45:47) sts, marked st,
Rep round 2 until piece measures 11⁄4in (3cm). 8 (9:9) sts.
From fasten off point on each sleeve, count
Main sleeve 4 sts to the right and place marker in next st,
Place stitch marker at start of round, and from marker count 8 (9:9) sts
move it up for each row. counterclockwise and place marker in next st.
ROUND 1 Ch 3, 1 dc in each st to end, join. (8 (9:9) sts between markers.)
ROUND 2 Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in each st
to 2 sts from marker, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc, Joining round
join. (30 (31:31)sts) Line up the right sleeve to the right underarm
Rep last 2 rounds once. (32 (33:33)sts) of the body, with a beg slipknot on the hook,
Rep round 1. insert hook in marked stitches of both the
With yarn B, rep round 2. (34 (35:35)sts) body and the sleeve together at the back of
With yarn C, rep rounds 1 and 2. the sweater and ss to join, 3 ch (counts as dc),
(36 (37:37)sts) dc in each st across the back of the body to
With yarn B, rep round 1. 2nd marked stitch, *inserting hook through
With yarn A, rep round 2. (38 (39:39)sts) both layers of marked sts of body and other
Rep rounds 1 and 2, 2 (3:3) times. sleeve, work 1 dc, dc across sts of sleeve* to
The attractive neckline, worked in dense single (42 (45:45)sts) marker, working through both layers, 1 dc in
crochet, contrasts beautifully with the much more marked sts of sleeve and body, dc across front
open double crochet used in the body of the sweater. SIZE 34 YEARS ONLY to next marker, rep between * and * and ss to
Rep round 1. top of ch 3 to join. Remove underarm st
markers. (164 (170:178)sts)
ALL SIZES ROUND 1 Ch 3, dc2tog, 40 (41:43) dc, dc2tog,
With yarn B, rep round 1. 1 dc, place marker, *1 dc, dc2tog, 30 (32:34)
With yarn C, rep round 2. (44 (47:47)sts) dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, ** place marker, 1 dc, dc2tog,
With yarn C, rep round 1. 40 (41:43) dc, dc2tog, 1 dc, place marker, rep
With yarn B, rep round 2. (46 (49:49)sts) from * to **, join. (156 (162:170)sts)
With yarn A, rep round 1. ROUND 2 Ch 3, (dc2tog) twice, dc to 5 sts from
marker, (dc2tog) twice, 1 dc, *slip marker, 1
SIZE 67 YEARS ONLY dc, (dc2tog) twice, dc to 5 sts from marker,
Rep round 2. (51sts) (dc2tog) twice, 1 dc, rep from * to end of
round. (140 (146:154)sts)
ALL SIZES ROUND 3 Ch 3, dc2tog, dc to 3 sts from marker,
Fasten off. dc2tog, 1 dc, *slip marker, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc
to 3 sts from marker, dc2tog, 1 dc, rep from *
Joining sleeves to body to end of round. (132 (138:146)sts)
From fasten off point on body, count 4 sts Rep last 2 rounds twice. (84 (90:98)sts)
and place marker in the next st, from marker Rep round 3, 2 (2:3) times. (68 (74:74)sts)
count 8 (9:9) sts counterclockwise and place NEXT ROUND Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end.
marker (leaving 8 (9:9) sts between markers). Rep last round until sc rounds measure
From first marker placed, count 44 (45:47) sts 11⁄4in (3cm).
and place marker (leaving 44 (45:47) sts Fasten off.
between markers), from this 3rd marker,
count 8 (9:9) sts and place marker (leaving Finishing
8(9:9) sts between markers). Seam together the underarm sts using ss on
Around the body you should now have the inside of the garment.
marked st, 44 (45:47) sts, marked st, 8 (9:9) Weave in all ends.
240 What to wear
Child’s hoodie
This cozy hooded jacket, for a small person in your life, is worked straight and
then seamed. The edging in crab stitch gives a neat detail for a practical jacket.
Pattern Left front

The first size given is for a small hoodie, with With yarn B, work 34 (36:38) ch.
PROJECTS the medium and large sizes in parentheses. FOUNDATION ROW Starting in the third ch
For more crab stitch patterns from hook, work 1 sc into each st to end.
>> go to pages 144 and 174 Back (33 (35:37)sts)
With yarn B, work 68 (72:76) ch. Break off yarn B and join yarn A.
FOUNDATION ROW Starting in the third ch ROW 1 Work 3 ch (for the first dc), work 1 dc
Essential information from hook, work 1 sc into each st to end. into each st to end.
Break off yarn B and join yarn A. (67 (71:75)sts)
ROW 1 Work 3 ch (for the first dc), work 1 dc
SIZE To fit a child, age 3–4 (4–5:6–7) years into each st to end.
ROW 2 Work 1 ch, work 1 sc into each st
YARN Any fingering-weight yarn with a high wool
to end.
content will produce a similar effect
These two rows form the pattern.
Repeat these rows until the piece measures
8 (91⁄2:11)in/20 (24:28)cm from beginning,
A x 7(7:8) B x 1(1:2) ending with a row 2.
CROCHET HOOK D/3 US (3mm) hook Shape for armholes

Keep in pattern throughout.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
NEXT ROW Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the first
5 toggles, 11⁄4in (3cm) long
4 (5:6) st of the row. 3 ch (for first dc), work
GAUGE 21 sts x 17 rows per 4in (10cm) square 1 dc into each stitch to the last 3 (4:5) sts.
Turn. (61 (63:65)sts)
Keeping in pattern, work straight
1 sc worked at the start of a row counts as
until the piece measures 51⁄2 (6:61⁄2)in/ Neat wooden toggles look appropriate for this
a sc stitch.
13.5 (15:16.5)cm from armhole. hoodie and finish it off with a lovely detail. They are
3 sc worked at the start of a row counts as
easier for small hands to do up, although buttons
a dc stitch.
Shape shoulders and neck can be substituted if preferred.
CRAB STITCH: See p. 144.
NEXT ROW Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the
next 9 (9:8) sts, work 1 sc into each of the
next 9 sts, work 1 ss into each of the next 25
(27:31) sts, work 1 sc into each of the next 9 >> This hoodie is made with Rowan Pure Wool
sts, work 1 ss into each of the last 9 (9:8) sts. 4-ply, 175yds/160m/50g, in A: Kiss (436) and
Fasten off yarn. B: Porcelaine (451).
242
ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc into each st to end. 3 sts, work 2 dc into next st, 1 dc into the last Repeat row 2 twice more.
Repeat these rows until the piece measures st. (31 (33:36)sts) Fasten off yarn.
8 (91⁄2/11)in/20 (24:28)cm from beginning, ROW 4 Work 1 ch, work 1 sc into each st
ending with a row 2. to end. Button band
ROW 5 Work 3 ch (for the first dc), work 1 dc Starting at the base of the right front, work as
Shape for armholes into each st to end. for the buttonhole band, replacing row 3 with
Keep in pattern throughout. ROW 6 Work 1 ch, work 2 sc into next st, work another row 2 repetition.
NEXT ROW RS Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the 1 sc into each st to last 2 sts, work 2 sc into Join the shoulder seams.
first 4 (5:6) st of the row. 3 ch (for first dc), next st, work 1 sc into last st. (33 (35:38)sts)
work 1 dc into each stitch to end. Continue in this way, increasing every third Hood
(30 (31:32)sts) row, until there are 53 (61:66) sts. With yarn A, starting at the top of the right
Keeping in pattern, work straight until the Work straight until the sleeve measures front button band, work sc around the neck as
piece is 6 rows shorter than the back (not 101⁄4 (12:131⁄2)in/26 (30:34)cm). follows: 5 across the button band, 17 (18:20)
including the shoulder shaping row) ending Fasten off yarn. sts around the right neck, 25 (27:31) sts
on a wrong side row. across the back neck, 17 (18:20) sts around
Pockets (make 2) the left neck, 5 across the buttonhole band.
Shape neck With yarn A, work 19 (23:25) ch. (69 (73:81)sts)
NEXT ROW Ch 3 (for first dc), work 1 dc into FOUNDATION ROW Starting in the third ch Work in patt as for back until the hood
each st until 9 (9:11) sts to end, turn. from hook, work 1 sc into each st to end. measures 91⁄2 (10:11)in/24 (26:28)cm.
(21 (22:21)sts) (18 (22:24)sts) Fasten off yarn. Sew top of hood.
NEXT ROW Ch 3 (for first dc), dc2tog, work Working in patt as for back, work 13 rows.
1 dc into each st to end. (20 (21:20)sts) ROW 14 Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the Edgings
NEXT ROW Ch 3 (for first dc), work 1 dc into next 3 sts, work 1 sc into each st to end. SLEEVES
each st to the last 2 sts, dc2tog. (19 (20:19) (15 (19:21)sts) Join yarn B to cuff and work in crab stitch
sts) ROW 15 Ch 3 (for first dc), work 1 dc into each along base.
NEXT ROW Ch 3 (for first dc), dc2tog, work st to end. Fasten off yarn.
1 dc into each st to end. (18 (19:18)sts) ROW 16 Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the
Work 2 rows straight. next 2 sts, work 1 sc into each st to end. POCKETS
(13 (17:19)sts) ROW 1 Join yarn B and work 1 ch. Work 15 sc
Shape shoulder ROWS 1721 Work in patt, decreasing 1 st at evenly across the shaped edge.
NEXT ROW RS Ch 1, work 1 ss into each of the the shaped edge (by working 2 sts together) ROW 2 Ch 1, work in crab stitch back across
next 8 (9:8) sts, work 1 sc into each of the st on each row. (9 (13:16)sts) the edging.
to end. Fasten off yarn. Work 2 rows straight. Fasten off yarn.
Fasten off yarn.
Right front Block all pieces. BODY OF JACKET
Make as per left front, but reverse the shaping. ROW 1 Join yarn B to the base of the
Buttonhole band buttonhole band, where it joins the main
Sleeves (make 2) ROW 1 Join yarn A to the top of the left front jacket, and work in sc as follows: base of
With yarn B, work 30 (32:35) ch. and work 1 ch. Work in sc along the front buttonhole band 5 sts, body and hood, 2 sts
FOUNDATION ROW Starting in the third ch edge, working 2 sts into each dc row end and into each dc row end and 1 st into each sc row
from hook, work 1 sc into each st to end. 1 sc into each sc row end. Do not work into end, base of button band 5 sts.
(29 (31:34) sts) the contrast color at the base of the front. ROW 2 Ch 1, work in crab stitch back across
Break off yarn B and join yarn A. ROW 2 Work 1 ch, work 1 sc into each st the edging.
ROW 1 Work 3 ch (for the first dc), work 1 dc to end. Fasten off yarn.
into each st to end. Repeat row 2 once more. Join sleeves to fronts and back of jacket.
ROW 2 Work 1 ch, work 1 sc into each st to end. ROW 3 As row 2 but placing 5 buttonholes Sew sleeve and side seams; sew pockets to
ROW 3 Work 3 ch (for the first dc), work 2 dc evenly along the row. Buttonholes are created front of jacket; sew toggles to button band.
into next st, work 1 dc into each st to last by working 2 ch and skipping 2 sts. Weave in all ends.
The contrasting pale-colored
edging around the hem, hood,
and sleeves gives this hoodie
a professional and neat finish.
Turn to pages 50–53 when
working the increase and decrease
stitches to shape the garment,
and pages 87–89 for further
details about edgings and
finishings on crocheted items.
for Child’s poncho
go to page 234
Summer tunic dress 247
Summer tunic dress

This sweet, summer tunic dress is worked in two pieces for the front and back,
which are then sewn together. The skirt is worked in the round from the top
down, using increases and decreases to create a chevron effect.
Pattern
With yarn A, work 51 (55:59) ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 1 hdc in second ch from hook, 1 hdc
For an additional chevron pattern in each ch to end, turn. (49 (53:57)sts)
>> go to page 152 ROW 2 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end, turn.
ROW 3 Ch 2, 2 (4:2) hdc, *1 ch, skip 1 st,
3 hdc, rep from * to last 3 sts, 1 ch, skip 1 st,
Essential information 2 (4:2) hdc.
ROW 4 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st and ch sp as you
come to them, turn.
SIZE To fit a child, age 1–2 (2–3:4–5) years Rep row 2, 1 (2:3) times.
YARN You can use any DK-weight cotton yarn to

Shape underarm
achieve a similar effect
ROW 1 Ss into next 3 sts, 3 ch, 43 (47:51) hdc,
turn. (43 (47:51)sts)
When crocheting a chevron design, it is really
ROW 2 Ch 2, 1 hdc, hdc2tog, hdc to 3sts from
simple but you must remember to count all the
A x 2 (2:3) Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 end of row, hdc2tog, 1 hdc, turn. (41 (45:49)sts) stitches up one side and then count them down the
Rep row 2, five times. (31 (35:39)sts) other side for an even M-shape across your fabric.
ROW 8 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end.
Rep row 8 until piece measures 21⁄4 (21⁄4:23⁄4)in/
Ex1 Fx1 6 (6:7)cm from underarm shaping.
RIGHT SIDE
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook Shape neckline ROW 1 Join yarn with ss to 13 (15:17)th st
LEFT SIDE from edge of left side shaping, 2 ch, 1 hdc in
NOTIONS Yarn needle
ROW 1 Ch 2, 9 (10:11) hdc, turn. each st across, turn. (9 (10:11)sts)
2 x 3⁄4in (2cm) buttons
ROW 2 Ch 2, skip next st, 1 hdc in each st ROW 2 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to last 2 sts, skip
GAUGE 17 sts x 12 rows per 4in (10cm) square to end, turn. (8 (9:10)sts) next st, 1 hdc. (8 (9:10)sts)
ROW 3 Ch 2, hdc in each st to end, turn. ROW 3 Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to end, turn.
Rep last 2 rows a further 2 (3:4) times. (6sts) Rep last 2 rows a further 2(3:4) times. (6sts)
Fasten off. Fasten off.
<< This dress is made with Debbie Bliss Eco Baby,

137yds/125m/50g, in A: Ecru (16), B: Corn (36),
C: Silver (30), D: Apple (06), E: Fuchsia (32), and
F: Aqua (05).
248 What to wear
Back ROUND 2 With yarn B, 3 ch (counts as a st),

Work as front to end of first row 2. 1 dc in same st as ch 3, *1 dc, (dc2tog) twice,
ROW 3 Ch 2, 1 hdc, *1 ch, skip 1 st, 3 hdc, rep 1 dc, (2 dc in next st)** twice, rep from * to
from * to end. end of round, ending last rep at **, join to top
Continue as front from first row 4 to row 8 of of first st with ss.
underarm shaping. Rep round 2.
Rep row 8 until piece measures 41⁄2 (5:51⁄2)in/ With yarn A, rep round 2.
11 (12:14)cm from underarm shaping. ROUND 5 With yarn C, 3 ch, 2 dc in same st as
ch 3, *1 dc, (dc2tog) twice, 1 dc, (3 dc in next
Shape neckline st)** twice, rep from * to end of round, ending
RIGHT SIDE last rep at **, join. (120 (130:140)sts)
ROW 1 Ch 2, 6 hdc, turn. ROUND 6 Ch 3, 1 dc in same st as ch 3, *2 dc,
Rep row 1 a further 3 times. (dc2tog) twice, 2 dc, (2 dc in next st)** twice,
ROW 4 Ch 2, 2 hdc, hdc2tog, 2 hdc, turn. (5sts) rep from * to end, ending last rep at **, join.
ROW 5 BUTTONHOLE Ch 2, 2 hdc, 1 ch, skip ROUND 7 With yarn A, rep round 6.
next st, 2 hdc, turn. ROUNDS 89 With yarn D, rep round 6.
The shoulder straps on this tunic dress are secured
ROW 6 Ch 2, 2 hdc, hdc in ch sp, 2 hdc, turn. ROUND 10 With yarn A, rep round 6.
with tiny buttons. Choose a decorative plastic button
ROW 7 Ch 1, 1 hdc in each st to end, turn. ROUNDS 1112 With yarn E, rep round 6.
to make a lightweight and pretty feature, or crochet
Rep row 7 once. ROUND 13 With yarn A, 3 ch, 2 dc in same st as your own buttons (see p. 89).
Fasten off. ch 3, *2 dc, (dc2tog) twice, 2 dc, (3 dc in next
st)** twice, rep form * to end of round, ending
LEFT SIDE last rep at **, join. (144 (156:168)sts) ALL SIZES
Join yarn with ss to 19 (23:27)th st from edge ROUND 14 With yarn F, 3 ch, 1 dc in same st as Fasten off.
of right shaping. ch-3, *3 dc, (dc2tog) twice, 3 dc, (2 dc in next
Work as right side. st)** twice, rep from * to end of round, ending Finishing
last rep at **, join. With yarn E, join to right underarm side seam,
Join front and back panels ROUND 15 Rep round 14. 1 ch, evenly work a round of sc all the way
With right sides facing, using ss, seam tog ROUND 16 With yarn A, rep round 14. around the edge of the top, front, and back,
side seams under arm holes on both sides. ROUND 17 With yarn B, rep round 14. join. Fasten off.
Skirt SIZES 23 AND 45 YEARS ONLY Tie

With right side facing, join yarn A at right ROUND 18 Rep round 14. With yarn F, work 150 ch, fasten off, weave
side seam. in ends. Thread tie through eyelets in row 3
ROUND 1 Ch 2, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each SIZE 45 YEARS ONLY of bodice and fasten with a bow at the front.
st to left seam, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each ROUND 19 With yarn A, rep round 14. Weave in ends. Sew buttons in place.
st to end of round. (96 (104:112)sts) ROUNDS 2021 With yarn C, rep round 14. Block lightly.
Use flat whipstitch t TOP

o give TIP
i nv i s i b l e s e a m s .
This simple tie in a contrasting
color is made in chain stitch and
threaded through the bodice of the
dress to provide a pretty bow detail
at the front.
250 What to wear
Cropped sweater
This pretty top is a great addition to a summer wardrobe. Lacy, with three-
quarter length sleeves, it’s perfect for layering on cold days. Worked flat in four
pieces, the sweater is seamed together at the end.
MEDIUM SIZE ONLY
ROW 10 Ch1, 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, *2 sc in
PROJECTS next st, 1 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, rep from * to
For more cluster patterns end. (115sts)
>> go to page 186
ALL SIZES
ROW 11 Work row 1 of Upturned V Stitch
Essential information pattern. (33 (38:40) 2dc-cls)
ROW 12 Work row 2 of Upturned V Stitch
pattern.
SIZE To fit an adult female S (M:L) Rep row 12 until piece measures
121⁄4 (121⁄2:13)in/31 (32:33)cm.
YARN You can use any DK weight alpaca or wool
yarn here. This has a slight sparkle, which you
Shape the armholes
could re-create with Lurex®
ROW 1 *ss into next 2dc-cl, ss in ch-1 sp, rep
from * once, 3 ch, work row 2 of Upturned V
The main body of the sweater is made up of Stitch pattern across to third from last ch sp
a simple-to-follow lace repeat, with single crochet
x 4 (4:5) (leaving 2 2dc-cls unworked). (29 (34:36)
worked into the edges. Turn to pages 108–109 for
2dc-cls)
more information about simple lace techniques, and
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook ROW 2 Work row 2 of Upturned V Stitch
pages 110–112 for lace and filet patterns.
pattern.
NOTIONS Safety pin
Rep row 2 until armhole measures
Yarn needle
Pattern 51⁄2 (6:61⁄4)in/14 (15: 16cm from armhole
GAUGE 16 sts x 20 rows per 4in (10cm) The following pattern will fit three bust sizes: shaping, ending on WS row.
small: 32in (81cm), medium: 36in (91cm),
and large: 40in (101cm). Shape the neck
2DC-CL: 2 double crochet cluster. Yo, insert in ch
LEFT SIDE
sp below, yo, draw through, yo, draw through 2
Front ROW 1 RS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 8
loops, yo, insert in next ch sp, yo, draw through,
Work 77 (85:92) ch. (10:10) times, 1 dc in same ch sp as last st,
yo, draw through remaining 3 loops.
ROW 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in turn. (9 (11:11) 2dc-cls)
UPTURNED V STITCH: ROW 1 (working into row of
each ch to end, turn. (76 (84:91) sts) ROW 2 WS Ch 3, skip first ch-sp, *2dc-cl, 1 ch,
sc) 3 ch, *2dc-cl (see above) (work first dc into
ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end, turn. rep from * across, turn. (8 (10:10) 2dc-cls)
first sc, skip 1 sc, work second dc in next sc), 1 ch,
Rep row 2 a further 7 times. ROW 3 RS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 7
rep from * to end, 1 dc in last st.
ROW 2 Ch 3, 2dc-cl across row.
SMALL AND LARGE SIZES ONLY
Rep row 2 for pattern.
ROW 10 Ch 1, 4 (1) sc, *2 sc in next st, 2 sc, rep >> This sweater is made with Louisa Harding
from * to end. (100 (121)sts) Orielle DK, 120yds/110m/50g, in Breeze (05).
252 What to wear
(9:9) times, 1 dc in same ch sp as last st, turn. Rep row 2 a further 7 times.
(8 (10:10) 2dc-cls) ROW 10 Ch 1, 1 sc, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc,
ROW 4 WS Ch 3, skip first ch sp, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * to end, turn. (100 (106:109) sts)
rep from * across, turn. (7 (9:9) 2dc-cls) ROW 11 Work row 1 of Upturned V Stitch
ROW 5 RS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 6 pattern. (33 (35:36) 2dc-cls)
(8:8) times, 1 dc in same ch-sp as last st, turn. ROW 12 Work row 2 of Upturned V Stitch
(7 (9:9) 2dc-cls) pattern.
ROW 6 WS Ch 3, skip first ch-sp, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, Rep row 12 until piece measures 141⁄2
rep from * across, turn. (6 (8:8) 2dc-cls) (15:151⁄2)in/37 (38:39)cm.
Fasten off. Fasten off.
RIGHT SIDE Finishing

ROW 1 RS Join yarn to 11 (12:14)-ch sp after Block all pieces to size.
row end for left side shaping, 3 ch, *2dc-cl, With Front and Back body pieces RS together,
1 ch, rep from * to end, 1 dc, turn. (9 (11:11) seam together along the shoulder seams,
2dc-cls) using a ss.
ROW 2 WS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 7
(9:9) times, 1 dc into turning ch. (8 (10:10) Single crochet edging makes the garment tighter Neckline
2dc-cls) around the cuffs and waist for a better fit. Make sure ROUND 1 Turn work back so RS is facing,
ROW 3 Work row 2 of Upturned V Stitch that you keep an eye on the gauge so that the cuffs join yarn at shoulder seam, 1 ch, work sc
pattern. still contain a level of natural elasticity from the yarn. evenly around the neckline, front, and back,
ROW 4 Ch 3, *2 dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 6 (8:8) working into sides of rows where necessary,
times, 1 hdc into turning ch, turn. LEFT SIDE join with a ss, turn.
(7 (9:9) 2dc-cls) ROW 1 RS Join yarn to 15 (16:18)th 1-ch sp ROUND 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, join
ROW 5 Rep row 3. after end of left side shaping, 3 ch, *2dc-cl, with a ss, turn.
ROW 6 Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from * 5 (7:7) 1 ch, rep from * to end, 1 dc, turn. Rep round 2 a further 2 times.
times, 1 hdc into turning ch, turn. (7 (9:9) 2dc-cls) Fasten off.
(6 (8:8) 2dc-cls) ROW 2 WS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from
Fasten off. * 5 (7:7) times, 1 dc into turning ch. Attaching sleeves
(6 (8:8) 2dc-cls) With RS tog, using safety pins, pin sleeves
Back Fasten off. into place on body armholes, seam together
Work as front to row 2 of Shape the armholes. using a ss.
Rep row 2 until piece measures 71⁄2 (8:81⁄2)in/ Sleeves (make 2)
19.5 (20.5:21.5)cm from armhole shaping Work 68 (72:74) ch. Seam sides
ending on a WS row. ROW 1 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in Using a ss, seam together the sides
each ch to end, turn. (67 (71:73) sts) and sleeves.
Shape the neck ROW 2 Ch 1, 1 sc in each st to end, turn. Weave in all ends.
RIGHT SIDE
ROW 1 RS Ch 3, *2dc-cl, 1 ch, rep from
* 6(8:8) times, 1 dc in same ch sp as last st,
turn. (7 (9:9 2dc-cls)
ROW 2 WS Ch 3, skip first ch-sp, *2dc-cl, 1 ch,
rep from * across row, turn. (6 (8:8) 2dc-cls)
Fasten off.
TOP Crochet more length in
TIP the
b od y
for a l
es s cropped look.
Refer to pages 70–71 for information about
blocking and seaming your finished crochet garment.
When blocking a textured fabric such as this double
crochet cluster stitch design, it is best to wet block it.
SIZE To fit an adult female S (M: L)
YARN You can use any fine weight yarn

x 8 (8:9)
NOTIONS Yarn needle

3
⁄4in (2cm) diameter button
GAUGE 32 sts x 14 rows per 51⁄2in (14cm)
DC2TOGCL: work 2 dc tog over 3 sts. (Yo and
insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop through,
yo, draw through first 2 loops on hook) skip
next st, (yo and insert hook in next st, yo and
draw a loop through, yo draw through first
2 loops on hook), yo, and draw through all
3 loops on hook—2 st decreased.
DC4TOGCL: work 4 dc tog over the next 5 sts.
Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop
through, yo and draw through first 2 loops on
hook) twice, skip next st, (yo, insert hook into the
following st, yo and draw a loop through, yo and
draw through first 2 loops on hook) twice, yo,
draw through all 5 loops—4 sts decreased.
Ladies’ textured cardigan 255
Ladies’ textured cardigan

A lightweight, three-quarter-length cardigan in a fine lace pattern, the main
body of this pretty garment is worked in one piece. Adjust the length to your
size by simply increasing the rows of crochet before shaping.
ch, skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2
dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st,
PROJECTS dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, dc4togcl, repeat
For more openwork patterns from * 1 (2) more times, then from * to **
>> go to pages 116 and 202 once, dc3tog, turn. (49 (65)sts)
Leave rem sts unworked. Place a stitch marker
Pattern into base of last st in dc3tog, (these sts will be
The sizes S (M:L) will fit bust 32 (36:40)in 81/ worked later for Back and Left Front).
(91:102)cm. Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into next
st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc)
Body into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into next
Work 196 (228:260) ch. st) twice, 1 ch, do not work into the next st**,
FOUNDATION ROW dc2tog, working into fifth dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then
ch from hook for first st, (1 ch, skip next ch, from * to ** once, ending with dc3tog, turn.
dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) (49 (65)sts)
into the next ch, (1 ch, skip next ch, dc) twice, Leave rem sts unworked, placing a stitch The dc2tog stitches create a series of lacey holes
*1 ch, skip next ch, dc4togcl, (1 ch, skip next ch, marker into base of dc3tog, (these sts will be within the crochet, which helps the cardigan fabric to
dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, divided later for Back and Left Front). grow quite quickly. Refer to page 311 to decipher the
2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next ch, dc) ROW 2 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into crochet terms used in this pattern.
twice, repeat from * to last 4sts, 1 ch, skip next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, 1 ch,
next ch, dc3tog. 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into 1 dc, 1 ch, do not work next st, *(2 dc, 1 ch,
ROW 1 Ch 3 (counts as a st), dc2tog, (1 ch, skip next st) twice**, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into
next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc, 1 repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then from * to ** next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, dc4togcl,
ch, 2 dc) into the next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, once, ending with 1 ch, skip next st, dc2togcl. (1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, repeat
dc) twice, *1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch, ROW 3 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, *(1 ch, dc into from * 1 (2) times, then from * to ** ending
skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, next st, skip next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 with dc3tog. (47 (63)sts)
1 ch, 2 dc) into the next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, ROW 6 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc
dc) twice, repeat from * to last 4 sts, 1 ch skip dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc,
next st, dc3tog. dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next ch**, (1 ch, skip next
ROWS 233 Repeat row 1. from * to ** once, ending with dc3tog. st, dc into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st,
ROW 4 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip the next st, dc dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then
Divide for arms and neck shaping into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, from * to ** once, 1 ch, skip next st, dc into
SMALL AND LARGE SIZES ONLY: RIGHT FRONT 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc next st, skip next st, dc3tog. (46 (62)sts)
ROW 1 Ch 3 (does not count as st), dc2tog, *(1 into next st) twice**, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, ROW 7 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, 1 ch, *(2 dc,
repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then from * to ** 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st,
<< This cardigan is made with Rowan Kidsilk Haze once, skip next st, dc3tog. (48 (64)sts) dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**,
Glamour, 177yds/162m/25g, in Blushes (282). ROW 5 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch,
256 What to wear
repeat from * 1(2) times, then from * to ** into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, next ch, repeat from * twice, then from * to **
ending with dc3tog. (45 (61)sts) 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch**, (1 ch, skip next st, once, dc3tog.
ROW 8 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, ROW 5 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, skip next st,
into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times. 1 dc, 1 ch, skip next st *(2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into
1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch**, (1 ch, skip next st, (33 (49)sts) next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into next st)
dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, ROW 17 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch, skip
dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times, then twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, repeat from * 2
from * to ** once, 1 ch, skip next st, dc3tog. next st, (1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, times, ending with 3 dc into last st.
ROW 9 Ch 3, dc2tog, 1 ch, *(2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into skip next st**, dc4togcl, repeat from * to **, ROW 6 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip next
next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into next st) ending with dc3tog. st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch,
twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, dc4togcl, (1 ch, skip ROW 18 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc,
next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, repeat into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, repeat from * twice,
from * 1 (2) times, then from * to ** once, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc 1 ch, skip next st, dc, skip next st, dc3tog.
dc3tog. into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, ROW 7 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, 1 ch, *(2 dc,
ROW 10 Repeat row 8. dc4togcl, repeat from * 0 (1) times, then from * 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc
ROW 11 Repeat row 9. to ** once, ending with dc3tog. into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl,
ROW 12 Repeat row 8. (1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, repeat
ROW 13 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, 1 ch, 2 dc LARGE SIZE ONLY from * 2 times, ending with 3 dc into last st.
into the next ch, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into ROW 19 Repeat row 17. ROW 8 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip next
next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, dc4togcl, ROW 20 Repeat row 18. st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, 1 ch,
(1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc,
st, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next st, repeat MEDIUM SIZE ONLY: RIGHT FRONT 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, repeat from * twice,
from * 1 (2) times, then from * to ** ending ROW 1 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc 1 ch, skip next st, dc3tog.
with dc3tog. (42 (58)sts) into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st** (2 ROW 9 Ch 3, dc2tog, 1 ch, *(2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc)
ROW 14 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next ch, (1 ch, skip into next ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into next
into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, next st, dc into the next st) twice, 1 ch, do not st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch,
1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch**, (1 ch, skip next st, work into the next st, dc4togcl, repeat from * skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st,
dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, twice, then from * to ** once, ending with 3 dc repeat from * 2 times, ending with 3 dc into
dc4togcl, repeat from * 1 (2) more times, (1 ch, into the next ch. (57sts) last st.
do not work next st, dc into next st) twice, do Leave rem sts unworked. Place a stitch marker ROW 10 Repeat row 8.
not work next st, dc2tog. (38 (54)sts) into base of third dc, these stitches will be ROW 11 Repeat row 9.
ROW 15 Ch 3, dc2tog, 1 ch, *dc4togcl, (1 ch, worked later for Back and Left Front. ROW 12 Repeat row 8.
skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 ROW 2 Ch 3 (counts as a st), 2 dc into base st, ROW 13 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, 1 ch, 2 dc
dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next st, (1 ch, skip next *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, into next ch, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into next
st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, repeat from * skip next st**, dc4togcl, 1 ch, skip next st, dc st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch,
1 (2) times, ending with dc3tog. (35 (51)sts) into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc, skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, (2
ROW 16 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, repeat from * twice, dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, repeat from * once,
then from * to ** once, dc2togcl. then from * to ** ending with 3 dc into last st.
ROW 3 Ch 3, skip next st, dc2tog, *(1 ch, dc ROW 14 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip
into the next st, skip next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, dc4togcl**,
next st**, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next ch, (1 ch, (1 ch, skip next st, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st
skip next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next ch, repeat from *
next st**, dc4togcl, repeat from * twice, then once, then from * to ** once, (1 ch, skip next
from * to ** once, ending with 3 dc into last st. st, dc) twice, skip next st, dc2tog.
ROW 4 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip next ROW 15 Ch 3, dc2tog, 1 ch, *dc4togcl, (1 ch,
st, dc into the next st) twice**, 1 ch, skip next skip next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st**,
st, dc4togcl, 1 ch, skip next st, dc into next st) (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the next ch, (1 ch, skip
twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next st, 1 dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, repeat
Ladies’ textured cardigan 257
from * once, then from * to ** once, ending This classic-style cardigan

with 3 dc into the last st. has just one button
ROW 16 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip fastening. Choose a

mother-of-pearl, wood,
next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next
or plastic button that will
st, dc4togcl**, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into the
coordinate with the color of
next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st, (2 dc, 1 ch, your yarn. Attach it firmly
2 dc) into next ch, repeat from * once, then with a strand of 4-ply yarn
from * to ** once. or matching thread.
ROW 17 Ch 3, dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc)
twice, 1 ch, skip next st**, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc)
into the next st, (1 ch, skip next st, 1 dc) twice,
1 ch, skip next st**, dc4togcl, repeat from *
once, then from * to * once, ending with 3 dc
into the last st.
ROW 18 Ch 3, 2 dc into base st, *(1 ch, skip
next st, dc into the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip
next st**, dc4togcl, (1 ch, skip next st, dc into
the next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next st (2 dc, 1 ch,
2 dc) into the next ch, repeat from * once, LEFT FRONT Edging
then from * to ** once, dc3tog. Rejoin yarn to point at stitch marker and work For edging starting at the highest ripple point:
ROW 19 Repeat row 17. as for Right Front, reversing all shaping. *1 ch, skip next st, 1 sc, 1 ch, skip next st,
ROW 20 Repeat row 18. 1 hdc, 1 ch, skip next 3 sts, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc)
Sleeves into the next st, 1 ch, skip next 3 sts, 1 hdc,
Back Work 84 (100:100) ch. 1 ch, skip next st, 1 sc, 1 ch, skip next st,
With RS facing, rejoin yarn to main Body at FOUNDATION ROW dc2tog, working into fifth ss into the next st (highest point of ripple),
stitch marker and work as follows: ch from hook for the first st, *(1 ch, skip next repeat from * to end.
ch, dc) twice, 1 ch, skip next ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, For edging starting at the lowest ripple point:
SMALL AND LARGE SIZES ONLY 2 dc) into the next ch, (1 ch, skip next ch, dc) 3 ch, 2 dc into base of ch, 1 ch, skip next 3 sts,
ROW 1 Ch 3 (counts as st), dc2tog, *(1 ch, skip twice, 1 ch, skip next ch**, dc4togcl, repeat 1 hdc, 1 ch, skip next st, 1 sc, 1 ch, skip next
next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, skip next from * 4 (5:5) times, then from * to ** once, st, ss into next st (highest point of ripple).
st, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next st, (1 ch, skip dc3tog. Yo, insert hook into 5th ch from hook, Repeat as for above method to end.
next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch skip next yo and draw through a loop, yo, insert hook
st**, dc4togcl, repeat from * 4 (6) times, then into the next ch, yo and draw through a loop, Finishing
from * to ** once, ending with dc3tog. yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook, Work edging along top shoulders and back to
*(1 ch, skip next ch, dc into the next ch) twice, even stitches before sewing shoulder seams.
MEDIUM SIZE ONLY 1 ch, skip next ch (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into the Set in sleeves. Work edging along cuffs. With
ROW 1 Ch 3 (counts as st), 2 dc into the base next ch, (1 ch, skip next ch, dc into the next wrong side facing, sc evenly along left front
of 3 ch, *(1 ch, skip next st, dc into the next ch) twice, 1 ch, skip next ch**, dc4togcl, edge, neckline, and down right front edge,
st) twice, 1 ch skip next st, dc4togcl, (1 ch, repeat from * 3 (4) times, then from * to ** 1 ch, turn, sc along whole row again. Repeat
skip next st, dc into the next st) twice, 1 ch, once, ending with dc3tog. the last row, working 1 buttonhole on right
skip next st**, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc), repeat from * ROW 1 Ch 3 (counts as a st), dc2tog, *(1 ch, front edge of row 34 as follows: sc to
5 times, then from * to ** once, ending with 3 skip next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 ch, buttonhole point, 2 ch, skip next 2 sc, sc.
dc into the next st. skip next st, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into next st, Continue in sc to end of row, 1 ch, work
(1 ch, skip next st, dc into next st) twice, 1 further row. Edge bottom of cardigan.
FOR ALL SIZES *1 ch skip next st**, dc4togcl, repeat from Fasten off. Weave in all ends.
Place marker at the base of last st. * 4 (5:5) times, then from * to ** once ending
Repeat row 1 until back measures the same as with dc3tog.
the front. (18 (20:20)rows) Repeat row 1, 36 (38:40) more times.
Toys
260 Toys
Animal rattles
These bright and colorful rattles will delight any young baby. The single crochet
stitch makes the toy robust and durable for lots of cheerful play. Change the
character of each rattle by choosing a different animal’s face.
Dog rattle stuff the rattle firmly before continuing with
ROUND 1 With yarn A, make an adjustable ring the crochet.
PROJECTS with 6 sc. (6sts) ROUND 34 *2 sc, sc2tog); rep from * around.
For another toy pattern ROUND 2 2 sc into each st. (12sts) (18sts)
>> turn to pages 132–135 ROUND 3 *1 sc, work 2 sc into next st; rep from ROUND 35 *1 sc, sc2tog; rep from *around.
* around. (18sts) (12sts)
ROUND 4 *2 sc, work 2 sc into next st; rep from ROUND 36 *sc2tog; rep from * around. (6sts)
Essential information * around. (24sts) Using a yarn needle gather the last 6 sts
ROUND 5 *3 sc, work 2 sc into next st; rep from together. Fasten off, weave in ends.
* around. (30sts)
SIZE 5in (12cm) ROUNDS 69 Dc around. (30sts) Ears (make 2)
ROUND 10 *3 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around. ROUND 1 With yarn A, make an adjustable ring
YARN You can use any DK-weight cotton yarn for
(24sts) with 4 sc. (4sts)
a similar effect
ROUND 11 *2 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around. ROUND 2 2 sc into each st. (8sts)
(18sts) ROUNDS 34 Sc around. (8sts)
ROUNDS 1214 With yarn B, sc around. (18sts) ROUND 5 *2 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around.
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1 ROUNDS 1517 With yarn C, sc around. (18sts) (6sts)
ROUNDS 1820 With yarn B, sc around. (18sts) ROUNDS 67 Sc around. (6sts)
CROCHET HOOK C/2 US (3mm) hook ROUNDS 2123 With yarn C, sc around. (18sts) Ss to join. Fasten off, weave in ends.
ROUNDS 2426 With yarn B, sc around. (18sts)
ROUND 27 With yarn A, *2 sc, work 2 sc into Finishing
Yarn needle
next st; rep from * around. (24sts) Sew ears firmly to each side of rattle head.
Black and pink embroidery thread and needle
ROUND 28 *3 sc, work 2 sc into next st; rep Embroider nose and eyes with black thread.
Polyfill
from * around. (30sts)
Stuffed-toy bell (to place inside the rattle)
ROUNDS 2932 Dc around. (30sts)
>> These rattles are made with Takhi Yarns Cotton
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential ROUND 33 *3 sc, sc2tog; rep from * around. Classic DK, 108yds/99m/50g, in A: Light cactus
(24sts) (3701), B: Butter yellow (3548), C: Bubblegum (3449),
Place a small bell in the base of the rattle and D: Light blue (3449), and E: Light silver (3006).
ADJUSTABLE RING: See p.132
NOTE Work in continuous spirals unless

pattern states otherwise. Mark the end of
the round with a st marker, and move it up
as you work.
TOP
n g. TIP
Maintain a tight gauge fo st u ffi
r a firm e s th e
fa bric that hid
262 Toys
The mouse’s ears are made from two different- Keep your gauge even when working each round. Each animal’s eyes, nose, and mouth are sewn
colored pieces of crocheted fabric. Once both are This will ensure a firm, close-knit fabric. To stuff each with six strands of black and pink embroidery thread.
complete, place the shapes wrong-sides together and rattle, push the polyfill gently with your finger to the Bend the earflap of the dog downward and secure it
work a series of single crochet stitches in the head base of the animal, then complete the design by with a small stitch from underneath the ear to the side
color around them both to create the edging. crocheting its head and ears. of the dog’s head.
Cat rattle ROUND 3 (1 sc, work 2 sc into next st); rep

Repeat main pattern for rattle, replacing the around. (24sts)
colors with C, D, and B in that sequence. Ss to join and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Ears (make 2) Ear back (make 2)

ROUND 1 With yarn C, make an adjustable ring ROUND 1 With yarn D, make an adjustable ring
with 4 sc. (4sts) with 8 sc. (8sts)
ROUND 2 1 sc, work 2 sc into next st); rep. ROUND 2 Work 2 sc into each st. (16sts)
(6sts) ROUND 3 (1 sc, work 2 sc into next st); rep
ROUND 3 (2 sc, work 2 sc into next st); rep. around. (24sts)
(8sts) Ss to join and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Ss to join and fasten off. Weave in ends.
Finishing
Finishing Take one ear front and ear back and place
Sew ears firmly to each side of rattle head. wrong sides together, using yarn D and with
Embroider nose, whiskers, and eyes with the ear front facing, sc both sides of the ear
black yarn. together. Ss to join and fasten off, weave in
ends. Sew ears firmly to either side of rattle
Mouse rattle head. Embroider nose with pink thread and
Repeat main pattern for rattle, replacing the whiskers and eyes with black thread.
colors with D, E, and A in that sequence.
Ear front (make 2)

ROUND 1 With yarn A, make an adjustable ring
with 8 sc. (8sts)
ROUND 2 Work 2 sc into each st. (16sts)
Animal rattles 263
264 Toys
Giant play ball

This cute toddler’s ball is made up of hexagons and pentagons sewn
together three dimensionally. If filling the ball with polyfill, first place
the stuffing in a white pillowcase or lining, so that it doesn’t poke through.
NOTE Work all hexagons in stripes of random ROUND 3 Ch 3, 2 dc into 2-ch sp, *3 dc into sp
color and all pentagons in solid colors. between next 2 puffs, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) into
PROJECTS next 2-ch sp; rep from * ending with (3 dc,
For more color granny patterns Hexagon (make 20 for large ball) 3 ch) back into first 2-ch sp, join round with
>> go to pages 146, 148, and 154 Work 4 ch, ss in first ch to form a ring. a ss to top of third ch.
ROUND 1 Ch 3, (yo, insert into ring, pull loop Fasten off yarn.
through, yo and pull through 2 loops) twice,
Essential information yo, pull through all loops on hook, 2 ch, Finishing
(cluster into ring, 2 ch) 5 times. (6 clusters) Block pieces lightly. If making a large ball, sew
Change color, attaching new color to any all pieces together three dimensionally, using
SIZE Large ball: approx 29in (74cm) 2-ch sp. whipstitch (see p. 70), with 5 hexagons
circumference; small ball: approx 14in (35cm) ROUND 2 Ch 2, (1 puff, 2 ch, 1 puff) into each around each pentagon; the ball will take shape
2-ch sp, join round with a ss into top of first ch. organically, pulling into a sphere. When there
YARN Use any DK weight, machine-washable yarn
Change color, attaching new color to any are only a few shapes left to attach, stuff the
2-ch sp. ball and join remaining pieces. For a small ball,
ROUND 3 Ch 3, 2 dc into 2-ch sp, *3 dc into sp sew only 12 pentagons together in the same
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 between next 2 puffs, (3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) into way as the large ball, making two sets of
next 2-ch sp; rep from * ending with (3 dc, 5 pentagons around a central pentagon.
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook 3 ch) back into first 2-ch sp, join round with Sew together to form a sphere.
a ss to top of third ch.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
Fasten off yarn.
Polyfill or foam ball >> This ball is made with Berroco Comfort DK,
178yds/165m/50g, in A: True red (2751), B: Teaberry
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential Pentagon (make 12) (2730), C: Seedling (2740), and D: Cornflower (2726).
Work 4 ch, ss in first ch to form a ring.
ROUND 1 Ch 3, (yo, insert into ring, pull loop
HALF-FINISHED DOUBLE: yo, put hook through
through, yo and pull through 2 loops) twice,
st, yo and bring back through st, yo and pull
yo, pull through all loops on hook, 2 ch,
through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook).
(cluster into ring, 2 ch) 4 times. (5 clusters)
HALF-FINISHED HDC: yo, put hook through st,
ROUND 2 Ch 2, (1 puff, 2 ch, 1 puff) into each
yo and bring back through st (3 loops on hook).
2-ch sp, join round with a ss into top of first ch.
CLUSTER: See p. 79.
PUFF: See p. 142.
266 Toys
Mother elephant and baby

These mother and baby elephants are worked simply in the round, the head
and body in one piece and the legs, ears, and tail worked and attached separately.
Turn to pages 130–131 for information about assembling your toys.
Mother elephant ROUND 25 *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, repeat
Work the stitches fairly tightly to create a from * 5 times, 2 sc in each of next 3 sts.
PROJECTS firm-textured fabric and conceal the stuffing. (24sts)
For more patterns worked in the round ROUND 26 *sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat from *
>> go to pages 176 and 186 Head and body 5 times, sc in last 6 sts. (18sts)
ROUND 1 Work 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Begin to stuff the body firmly and attach the
ROUND 2 2 sc in each st around. (12sts) safety eyes, if you are using them. If you are
Essential information ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat using buttons or embroidering eyes, this is
from * to end. (18sts) done upon completion of the toy. Continue
ROUND 4 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, to stuff as your work progresses. The trunk
SIZE Mother: approx 51⁄4 x 31⁄4in (13 x 8.5cm) repeat from * to end. (24sts) is quite small, so add stuffing little and often,
Baby: approx 4 x 23⁄4in (10 x 7cm) ROUNDS 515 Sc in each st around. and pull decreasing stitches (sc2tog) very
ROUND 16 2 sc in each of the next 6 sts, sc in tightly to prevent gaps.
YARN Any DK weight yarn will substitute here.
last 18 sts. (30sts) ROUND 27 *sc2tog, repeat from * 5 times,
Wool and acrylic fibers will work well
ROUND 17 *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat sc in last 6 sts. (12sts)
from * 5 times, sc in last 18 sts. (36sts) ROUND 28 *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, repeat
ROUND 18 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, from * to end. (9sts)
Ax1 Bx1 repeat from * 5 times, sc in last 18 sts. (42sts) ROUNDS 2936 Sc in each st around.
ROUND 19 Sc in each st around. ROUND 37 Sc2tog, sc in last 7 sts. (8sts)
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook ROUND 20 Sc in next 24 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next ROUND 38 Sc2tog, sc in last 6 sts. (7sts)
4 sts, repeat from * to end. (39sts) ROUND 39 Sc2tog, sc in last 5 sts. (6sts)
NOTIONS Black safety toy eyes, buttons, or black
ROUND 21 Sc in next 24 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next Fasten off.
embroidery thread and needle
3 sts, repeat from * to end. (36sts)
Polyfill
ROUND 22 Sc in next 24 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next
Yarn needle >> These toys are made with LB Collection Superwash
2 sts, repeat from * to end. (33sts) Merino DK, 127yds/116m/50g, in A: Sky (107) for the
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential ROUND 23 Sc in next 24 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next mother and B: Denim (108) for the baby.
st, repeat from * to end. (30sts)
ROUND 24 Sc in next 24 sts, *sc2tog, repeat
A dd stuffing to th
e tru
nk a
TOP
s yo
u wor t i g ht . TIP
k and pull stitch e s
268 Toys
Ears (make 2) Tail buttons or embroidering eyes this is done

Work rounds 1–4 of the Head and body as Work 9 ch. upon completion of the toy. Continue to stuff
on page 266. (24sts) ROW 1 Ss in fourth chain from hook, ch 3, as your work progresses; as with the mother
ROUND 5 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, ss in same chain, ch 3, ss in same chain. elephant, the trunk is quite small so add
repeat from * to end. (30sts) Fasten off. stuffing little and often, and pull decreasing
Fasten off. Sew legs, ears, and tail to body with a yarn stitches (sc2tog) quite tight to avoid gaps.
needle, and weave in ends. ROUND 22 *sc2tog , sc in next 2 sts, repeat
Front legs (make 2) from * 2 times, sc in last 4 sts. (13sts)
Work rounds 1 and 2 of Head and body as Baby elephant ROUND 23 *sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat from *
page 266. (12sts) As with the mother elephant, work the 2 times, sc in last 4 sts. (10 sts)
ROUND 3 Sc TBL of each st around. stitches tightly to create a firm-textured fabric ROUND 24 *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat
ROUNDS 412 Sc in each st around. and conceal the stuffing. from * to end. (8sts)
Fasten off. ROUNDS 2527 Sc in each st around.
Head and body ROUND 28 Sc2tog, sc in last 6 sts. (7sts)
Back legs (make 2) ROUND 1 Work 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Fasten off.
Work rounds 1–3 of Front legs, as above. ROUND 2 2 sc in each st around. (12sts)
(12sts) ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat Ears (make 2)
ROUNDS 410 Sc in each st around. from * to end. (18sts) ROUND 1 Work 6 sc in an adjustable ring,
Fasten off. ROUNDS 410 Sc in each st around. turn, ch 1.
ROUND 11 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in last 14 sts. ROUND 2 2 sc in each st, turn, ch 1. (12sts)
(22sts) ROUND 3 2 sc in each st. (24sts)
ROUND 12 *2 sc in next st, sc in next st, repeat Fasten off.
from * 3 times, sc in last 14 sts. (26sts) Fold ear in half and join along turning edges,
ROUND 13 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, attach to head.
repeat from * 3 times, sc in last 14 sts. (30sts)
ROUND 14 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Legs (make 4)
repeat from * 3 times, sc in last 14 sts. (34sts) ROUND 1 Work 6 sc in an adjustable ring.
ROUND 15 Sc in each st around. ROUND 2 *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts,
ROUND 16 Sc in next 19 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next repeat from * to end. (8sts)
3 sts, repeat from * to end. (31sts) ROUNDS 37 Sc in each st around.
ROUND 17 Sc in next 19 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next Fasten off.
2 sts, repeat from * to end. (28sts)
ROUND 18 Sc in next 19 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next Finishing
The cute ears are folded and sewn closed
st, repeat from * to end. (25sts) Sew legs to the body firmly with a yarn needle,
along the turning edges, and then sewn to
ROUND 19 Sc in next 19 sts, *sc2tog, repeat secure yarn, and weave in all ends.
the baby elephant’s head.
ROUND 20 *sc2tog , sc in next 4 sts, repeat Tail
from * 2 times, sc in last 4 sts. (19sts) To make tail, after sewing on a back leg, take
ROUND 21 *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, repeat the end of the yarn through the elephant’s
from * 2 times, sc in last 4 sts. (16sts) bottom, make a knot about 5⁄8in (1.5cm) from
Begin to stuff the body firmly and attach the the body and cut the yarn after this, leaving
safety eyes, if you are using them. If using about 1⁄2in (1cm) to fluff out the fibers.
The elephant mom’s tail is a chain with slip stitches to form
a tuft. Her baby’s tail is simply a knotted length of yarn.
SIZE 12 x 5in (30 x 12cm)
YARN You can use any DK weight yarn
Ax2 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1

Yarn needle
1
Black and red embroidery thread and needle
Blue ribbon
Polyfill
BOBBLE STITCH: Yo, insert hook in stitch, yo,
draw loop through, yo, draw through 2 loops on
the hook, *yo, insert hook in same space, yo, draw
loop through, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook;
repeat from * 4 times, yo, draw through all 6
loops on hook.
Rag doll 271
Rag doll
This crocheted version of the traditional rag doll will soon become your child’s
best friend. Strands of yarn are used to make her hair, while her stockings, pretty
dress, and matching shoes are all integral parts of the toy.
ROUND 11 *15 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
to end. (51sts)
PROJECTS ROUND 12 *16 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
For more single crochet projects to end. (54sts)
>> go to pages 36 and 170 Place 2 stitch markers on the next row, 12 sts
apart, to mark where you will put the toy eyes.
Pattern ROUNDS 1314 Sc in each st to the end.
The head and body are worked together in ROUND 15 *sc2tog, 7 sc; repeat from * to end.
one piece. (48sts)
ROUND 16 *sc2tog, 6 sc; repeat from * to end.
Head and body (42sts)
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 17 *sc2tog, 5 sc ; repeat from * to end.
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) (36sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end. (12sts) ROUND 18 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end.
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to (30sts)
end. (18sts) ROUND 19 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end.
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to (15sts)
end. (24sts) Put your working loop on a stitch holder and Playing with dolls is a huge part of growing up,
ROUND 4 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to attach the toy eyes to your head in the places and having the perfect “friend” can make playtime
special. Alter the color of your doll’s skin, hair, and
end. (30sts) you marked on round 13. Stuff the head with
garments to please your child, and turn to pages
ROUND 5 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to polyfill. Put your working loop back on the
130–131 for information about how to assemble
end. (33sts) hook and continue. and stuff a crocheted toy.
ROUND 6 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 20 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
to end. (36sts) to end. (18sts)
ROUND 7 *11 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 21 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 30 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
to end. (39sts) ROUND 22 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (33sts)
ROUND 8 *12 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (21sts) ROUND 31 Sc in each st to end.
to end. (42sts) ROUND 23 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 32 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
ROUND 9 *13 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 24 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (36sts)
to end. (45sts) to end. (24sts) ROUND 33 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 10 *14 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 25 Sc in each st to end. Change to yarn D at the end of this round.
to end. (48sts) ROUND 26 *7 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 34 *sc2tog, 10 sc; repeat from * to end.
to end. (27sts) (33sts)
ROUND 27 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 35 *sc2tog, 9 sc; repeat from * to end.
<< This doll is made with Berroco Comfort,
178yds/163m/50g, in A: Barley (2703), B: Teaberry ROUND 28 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * (30sts)
(2730), C: Sunshine (2719), D: Cornflower (2726), to end. (30sts) ROUND 36 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end.
and E: Brown (2727). ROUND 29 Sc in each st to end. (24sts)
272 Toys
ROUND 37 *sc2tog, 2 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 8 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end. st, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the last
(18sts) (12sts) 2 sts. (22sts)
ROUND 38 *sc2tog, 1 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUNDS 918 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 4 2 sc in the first st, 8 sc, 3 hdc in the
(12sts) ROUND 19 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (11sts) next st, 5 hdc, 3 hdc in the next st, sc in the
ROUND 39 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end. (6sts) ROUNDS 2024 Sc in each st to end. last 6 sts. (27sts)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull ROUND 25 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (10sts) ROUND 5 Sc in each st to the end.
through loop to secure. ROUNDS 2630 Sc in each st to the end. (10sts) ROUND 6 1 sc, sc2tog, 8 sc, sc2tog, 6 sc, sc2tog,
Do not stuff the body of the doll yet. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull sc in the last 6 sts. (24sts)
through loop to secure. ROUND 7 11 sc, hdc3tog, 3 hdc, hdc3tog, sc in
Arms (make 2) Finish stuffing the arm firmly. the last 4 sts. (20sts)
NOTE Stuff the arms as you go along. Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and ROUND 8 3 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog,
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and weave through the last 10 sts, pull the yarn to 1 sc, sc2tog, sc in the last 3 sts. (16sts)
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) close the hole at the top of the arm, weave in ROUND 9 8 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog, sc in the
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) yarn to secure. last 3 sts. (14sts)
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 10 Sc in each st to the end.
end. (18sts) Legs (make 2) ROUND 11 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (13sts)
ROUND 3 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to NOTE Stuff the legs as you go along. Change to yarn D at the end of the row and
end. (21sts) With yarn B, make an adjustable ring and start stripe pattern. Work two rounds D and
ROUND 4 Sc in each st to end. (21sts) work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) two rounds C; repeat to round 33 and work
ROUND 5 *sc2tog, 5 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end. (12sts) last round in D.
(18sts) ROUND 2 2 sc, 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc, 3 hdc in ROUNDS 1216 Sc in each st to the end.
ROUND 6 Bobble stitch in first st, sc in each st the next st, 2 hdc, 3 hdc in the next st, 2 sc, ROUND 17 Sc2tog, sc in each st to the end.
to end. 2 sc in the last st. (18sts) (12sts)
ROUND 7 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 3 3 sc, 2 sc in the next st, 2 sc, 1 hdc, ROUNDS 1822 Sc in each st to the end.
(15sts) 2 hdc in the next st, 4 hdc, 2 hdc in the next ROUND 23 Sc2tog, sc in each st to the end.
(11sts)
ROUNDS 2428 Sc in each st to the end.
ROUND 29 Sc2tog, sc in each st to the end.
(10sts)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull
through loop to secure.
Finish stuffing the leg firmly.
Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and
weave through the last 10 sts, pull the yarn
to close the hole at the top of the leg. Leave
the tail of yarn in place to sew onto the
body later.
Dress
With yarn B, ch 21, ss into start of chain to
form a loop. (21sts)
ROUND 1 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to
end. (24sts)
Thread the ribbon through the eyelet spaces The doll’s hair is created by first cutting same-
ROUND 2 Sc in each st to end.
created in the crochet fabric that forms the doll’s skirt. sized lengths of yarn and attaching them to her
A satin ribbon will give a pretty sheen, while a matte crocheted head (see opposite). Use yarn A for her ROUND 3 *7 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to
ribbon will be more muted. Tie a double bow if your nose and give her a sweet smile. Safety toy eyes end. (27sts)
doll is being made for a child under 36 months. are available from craft stores or online. ROUND 4 Sc in each st to end.
Rag doll 273
ROUND 5 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Boot cuff (make 2)

end. (30sts) With yarn B, ch 16.
ROUND 6 Sc in each st to end. ROW 1 Sc in the second ch from hook, sc in
ROUND 7 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to each st to the end.
end. (33sts) Ch 1, turn. (15sts)
ROUNDS 89 Sc in each st to end. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull
ROUND 10 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * through loop to secure.
to end. (36sts) Sew in place around the top of the boots.
ROUND 11 Sc in each st to end. Then sew the legs onto the base of the body.
The next two rounds create the holes for the Weave in yarn to secure and cut off any
ribbon to go through. loose ends.
ROUND 12 *ch 2, skip 1 st, sc in next st; repeat
from * to end. Embroidering the facial details See left to work the two cuffs on the doll’s booties.
ROUND 13 *sc in the ch sp, sc in next st; repeat With yarn A, embroider nose by working 4 The main part of each shoe is crocheted as one piece
from * to end. or 5 long stitches in the middle of the round by joining the pink shoe yarn (B) with the skin yarn (A)
ROUND 14 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * where you placed the eyes. and continuing in single crochet stitches.
to end. (42sts) Use black embroidery thread to sew on
ROUND 15 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * eyebrows and red embroidery thread to create
to end. (48sts) a V stitch a couple of rounds under the nose
ROUND 16 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to form the mouth. Catch any loose ends to
to end. (60sts) the back of the head (where they won’t show),
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull weave in to secure, and cut off.
Place the dress over the body of the doll so Creating the hair
that the top of it sits on the third round at Use an letter-sized piece of cardboard and wrap
the top of the body. yarn E around the width lengthwise several
Stuff the body of the doll now. times. Cut the strands of yarn in half down
Thread the cut yarn from the body of the doll the middle of the cardboard. This will give you
onto a yarn needle and weave through the last plenty of pieces of yarn the same length.
6 stitches at the base, pull the yarn to close To attach to the head, start at the crown,
the hole. Weave in yarn to secure and cut off put your crochet hook through one of the
any loose ends. stitches on the doll’s head, fold a piece of
yarn in half, and pick up the loop end of the
Dress sleeves (make 2) folded yarn with your hook, and pull part way
With yarn B, make an adjustable ring and through your stitch. Thread the cut ends of
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) yarn through the loop you have just created
ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to and pull the cut ends to close the knot and
end. (9sts) attach to the head.
ROUND 2 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Repeat this process, going round in circles
end. (12sts) until you have a good covering of hair.
ROUNDS 36 Sc in each st to end. Finish off by threading a blue ribbon through
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull the loops on the bottom of the dress and tie
through loop to secure. with a bow.
Place over the top of the arms, sew in place.
Then sew the arms to the body using the
photo as a guide. Weave in yarn to secure
and cut off any loose ends.
274 Toys
Polar bear with scarf

See a child’s face light up when given this adorably cute bear. His scarf is
detachable, so if giving the bear to a child under 36 months, work a couple
of holding stitches through the scarf and bear in order to secure it safely.
Pattern ROUND 19 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
The head and body are worked together in one to end. (33sts)
PROJECTS piece. Stuff the head and body as you go along. ROUND 20 Sc in each st to end.
For more amigurumi patterns Put your working loop on a stitch holder and
>> go to pages 266, 270, and 278 Head and body attach the toy eyes to the head.
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and Place the eyes at the top of the head, nine
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) stitches apart on the marked round 6.
Essential information ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Stuff the head with polyfill.
end. (9sts) Put your working loop back on the hook
ROUND 2 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to and continue:
SIZE Approx 91⁄4 x 61⁄2in (23.5 x 16.5cm) end. (12sts) ROUND 21 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
ROUND 3 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to to end. (36sts)
YARN You can use DK-weight yarn for this project
end. (15sts) ROUND 22 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 4 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 23 *11 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
end. (18sts) to end. (39sts)
Ax1 Bx1 ROUND 5 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 24 Sc in each st to end.
end. (21sts) ROUND 25 *12 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook ROUND 6 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to to end. (42sts)
end. (24 sts) Mark this round with a stitch ROUND 26 Sc in each st to end.
NOTIONS Stitch markers
marker. ROUND 27 *13 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
Yarn needle
ROUND 7 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to to end. (45sts)
3
Polyfill
ROUND 8 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 29 *14 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
Scrap of black DK yarn
end. (32sts) to end. (48sts)
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential ROUND 9 *7 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 30 Sc in each st to end.
end. (36sts) ROUND 31 *15 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
ROUND 10 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (51sts)
to end. (40sts) ROUND 32 sc in each st to end.
ROUNDS 1113 Sc in each st to end. ROUND 33 *16 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
ROUND 14 *sc2tog, 6 sc; repeat from * to end. to end. (54sts)
(35sts) ROUND 34 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 15 *sc2tog, 5 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 35 *17 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
(30sts) to end. (57sts)
The next two rounds create the bend in
the neck. >> This polar bear is made with Rowan Handknit
ROUNDS 1617 13 Sc, ss in the next 4 sts, 13 sc. Cotton, 93yds/85m/50g, in A: Ecru (251) and
ROUND 18 Sc in each st to end. B: Atlantic (346).
Safety toy eyes usually have two parts—the eye
and the washer, or backing part, to fix it onto your
polar bear. For the sake of safety, the washer, or
backing part, must join firmly with the eye to keep it
from being pulled out by a child. Embroider the bear’s
nose and mouth using small snippets of black yarn.
276 Toys
ROUND 36 *18 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat the polar bear body. Weave in yarn to secure
from * to end. (60sts) and cut off any loose ends.
ROUND 40 *sc2tog, 18 sc; repeat from * to end. Ears (make 2)
(57sts) With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and
ROUND 41 *sc2tog, 17 sc; repeat from * to end. work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
(54sts) ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat from *
ROUND 42 *sc2tog, 7 sc; repeat from * to end. to end. (9sts)
(48sts) ROUNDS 23 Sc in each st to the end.
ROUND 43 *sc2tog, 6 sc; repeat from * to end. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull
(42sts) through loop to secure.
ROUND 44 *sc2tog, 5 sc; repeat from * to end. Press flat and use a strand of yarn A to sew a
(36sts) V shape in the middle. Using the photo as a
ROUND 45 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end. guide sew in place on the polar bear body.
(30sts) Weave in yarn to secure and cut off loose ends.
ROUND 46 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end. Use a scrap of black yarn to embroider a
(24sts) triangle nose and backstitches for the mouth.
(18sts) Tail end The tail end of the bear is formed by making an
ROUND 48 *sc2tog, 1 sc; repeat from * to end. With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and adjustable ring. Turn to page 57 for more information
(12sts) work 4 sc into the ring. (4sts) about this technique, which is really useful for
ROUND 49 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end. (6sts) ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat making a neat round with a tidy central hole. Refer
to pages 130–131 for more information about
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull from * to end. (6sts)
assembling your crocheted toy.
through loop to secure. ROUND 2 *2 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat
Stuff the body firmly with polyfill. from * to end. (8sts)
Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and ROUNDS 35 Sc in each st to the end.
weave through the last 6 sts, pull the yarn to Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull ROW 1 Starting in second ch from hook,
close the hole at the base of the body, weave through loop to secure. sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
in yarn to secure, and cut off any loose ends. Using the photo as a guide, above right, sew ROW 2 Sc in each st, ch 1, turn.
in place on the polar bear body. Weave in yarn Repeat the last row until scarf is 133⁄4in
Legs (make 4) to secure and cut off any loose ends. (35cm).
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) Scarf through loop to secure.
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) This is not worked in a spiral. Turn your work Knot short lengths of yarn B onto the ends
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to at the end of each row. of the scarf to form tassels and cut to length.
end. (18sts) With yarn B, work 4 ch. Tie the scarf around the polar bear’s neck.
ROUND 3 5 sc TBL, sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, 5 sc.
(16sts)
ROUND 4 4 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc. (14sts)
ROUNDS 57 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 8 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (13sts)
Finish stuffing the legs firmly with polyfill.
Using the photo as a guide, sew in place on
Polar bear with scarf 277
Floppy-eared bunny 279
Floppy-eared bunny
This fun little rabbit will be at home sitting in a stroller or nursery, or being
cuddled by a toddler. It is a great project for practicing your color changes on the
bunny’s body, legs, and arms; turn to page 39 if you need more information.
Stripe pattern Place 2 stitch markers on the next row, 12 sts
Stripes are worked on the body, arms, and apart, to mark where you will put the toy eyes.
PROJECTS legs. Begin with yarn B and work as follows: ROUND 1314 Sc in each st to the end.
For more animal patterns 2 rows blue (B) ROUND 15 *sc2tog, 7 sc; repeat from * to end.
>> go to pages 132 and 156 2 rows white (C) (48sts)
2 rows yellow (A) ROUND 16 *sc2tog, 6 sc; repeat from * to end.
Keep color changes at the back of your work. (42sts)
Essential information ROUND 17 *sc2tog, 5 sc; repeat from * to end.
Body and head (36sts)
The head and body are worked together in ROUND 18 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end.
SIZE Approx 83⁄4 x 4in (22 x 10cm) one piece. (30sts)
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 19 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end. (15sts)
YARN You can use any DK-weight yarn for this
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) Put your working loop on a stitch holder and
project; cotton or acrylic are best for toys
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end. (12sts) attach the toy eyes to the head in the places
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to you marked on round 13.
end. (18sts) Stuff the head with polyfill.
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Put your working loop back on your hook and
end. (24sts) continue.
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook ROUND 4 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Starting with yarn B, begin stripe pattern:
end. (30sts) ROUND 20 *4 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat
NOTIONS Stitch markers
ROUND 5 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to from * to end. (18sts)
Yarn needle
1
Black and yellow embroidery thread and needle
White felt
ROUND 7 *11 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 23 Sc in each st to end.
Polyfill
to end. (39sts) ROUND 24 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential ROUND 8 *12 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (24sts)
to end. (42sts) ROUND 25 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 10 *14 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 27 Sc in each st to end.
to end. (48sts) ROUND 28 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
ROUND 11 *15 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end. (30sts)
<< This bunny is made with Rowan Sienna 4 Ply, to end. (51sts) ROUND 29 Sc in each st to end.
170yds/155m/50g, in A: Madras (675), B: Vindaloo ROUND 12 *16 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * ROUND 30 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from *
(678), and C: White (651). to end. (54sts) to end. (33sts)
280 Toys
ROUND 31 Sc in each st to end. through loop to secure.

ROUND 32 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * Finish stuffing the arm firmly.
to end. (36sts) Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and
ROUND 33 Sc in each st to end. weave through the last 10 sts, pull the yarn to
ROUND 34 *sc2tog, 10 sc; repeat from * to end. close the hole at the top of the arm, weave in
(33sts) yarn to secure.
(30sts) Legs (make 2)
ROUND 36 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end. With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and
(24sts) work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
ROUND 37 *sc2tog, 2 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
(18sts) ROUND 2 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 3 hdc in
ROUND 38 *sc2tog, 1 sc; repeat from * to end. next st, 2 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in
(12sts) last st. (18sts)
ROUND 39 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end. (6 sts) ROUND 3 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc Give your bunny a friendly smile using six strands
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull in next st, 4 hdc, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc, 1 sc, of embroidery thread or a length of black yarn. Sew
the nose by making a series of increasingly smaller
through loop to secure. 2 sc in next st, sc in last 2 sts. (22sts)
stitches to form a triangle, and use backstitches for
Stuff the body firmly. Thread the cut yarn ROUND 4 2 sc in first st, 8 sc, 3 hdc in next st,
the mouth.
onto a yarn needle and weave through the last 5 hdc, 3 hdc in next st, sc in the last 6 sts.
6 stitches, pull the yarn to close the hole at (27sts)
the base of the body, weave in yarn to secure, ROUND 5 Sc in each st to end.
and cut off any loose ends. ROUND 6 1 sc, sc2tog, 8 sc, sc2tog, 6 sc, sc2tog,
sc in the last 6 sts. (24sts)
Arms (make 2) ROUND 7 11 sc, hdc3tog, 3 hdc, hdc3tog, sc in
Stuff the arms as you go along. the last 4 sts. (20sts)
With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 8 3 sc, sc2tog, 4 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog,
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) 1 sc, sc2tog, sc in last 3 sts. (16sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) ROUND 9 8 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog, sc in last 3
ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to sts. (14sts)
end. (18sts) Starting with yarn B, begin stripe pattern:
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to ROUND 10 Sc in each st to end.
end. (24sts) ROUND 11 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (13sts)
ROUNDS 46 Sc in each st to end. ROUNDS 1216 Sc in each st to end.
ROUND 7 *sc2tog, 2 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 17 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (12sts)
(18sts) ROUNDS 1822 Sc in each st to end. For a neat rabbit’s foot, make an adjustable ring
ROUND 8 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 23 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (11sts) using six single crochet stitches (see p. 57). This will
(15sts) ROUNDS 2428 Sc in each st to end. create a tidy circle underneath his padded paw from
ROUND 9 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end. ROUND 29 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (10sts) which the crochet stitches will circulate out.
(12sts) ROUNDS 3033 Sc in each st to the end.

Starting with yarn B, begin stripe pattern: Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull
ROUNDS 1019 Sc in each st to end. through loop to secure.
ROUND 20 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (11sts) Finish stuffing the leg firmly.
ROUNDS 2125 Sc in each st to end. Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and
ROUND 26 Sc2tog, sc in each st to end. (10sts) weave through the last 10 sts, pull the yarn to
ROUNDS 2731 Sc in each st to end. close the hole at the top of the leg, weave in
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull yarn to secure.
Floppy-eared bunny 281
Bunny ears (make 2)

With yarn A, make an adjustable ring and
work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
end. (18sts)
end. (24sts)
end. (30sts)
ROUNDS 1145 Repeat the last two rounds 17
times. (12 sts at the end of round 45)
through loop to secure. Press flat and sew the
opening at the top of the ear closed. Cut felt
to fit inside ear and sew in place with yellow
embroidery thread.
Tail
With yarn B, make an adjustable ring and
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts)
ROUND 4 Sc2tog 6 times. (6sts)
Stuff firmly with polyfill.
Thread the cut yarn onto a yarn needle and
weave through the last 6 sts, pull the yarn to
close the hole, weave in yarn to secure but do
Cut two pieces of white felt, approximately 1⁄2in
not cut the yarn off.
(1cm) smaller all around than the finished crocheted
ears. Attach them using small running stitches,
Finishing cross-stitches, or blanket stitch (see p. 87). Place your
Sew the arms, legs, ears, and tail in place with stitches close to the edge of the felt and secure with
matching yarn. Weave in any loose ends and a knot at the end.
cut off. Embroider face detail using black
embroidery thread.
Jungle finger puppets 283
Jungle finger puppets

Give your child hours of fun making up stories of animals living in the wild.
These little puppets are suited to a reasonably experienced crocheter.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS ROUND 8 *sc2tog, sc; repeat from * to end.

ADJUSTABLE RING: See p. 132 (12sts)
PROJECTS LOOP STITCH: Wrap the yarn from front to back ROUND 9 *sc2tog; repeat from * to end. (6sts)
For more animal patterns over the index finger of your yarn hand. Insert the Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull through
>> go to pages 132 and 156 hook in the next stitch, grab the strand of yarn to secure. Stuff firmly.
from behind your index finger and draw the yarn Weave the yarn through the last 6 sts, pull to
through the stitch. The yarn on your finger close at the base of head. Sew onto body and
Essential information becomes the loop. With the yarn loop still on your weave in loose end.
index finger, yarn over the hook and draw the
DIFFICULTY Intermediate
yarn through the 2 loops on your hook. Basic arm
SIZE Approx 3 x 11⁄2in (8 x 4cm) Make an adjustable ring and work 4 sc into
the ring. (4sts)
YARN You can use any yarn for this project
Pattern ROUNDS 13 Sc in each st to the end. (4sts)
The “basic” pattern relates to all puppets. Cut and secure the yarn leaving a long tail.
Refer to individual patterns for specific details. Stuff the arms, then weave the yarn end
Ax1 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1 through the last 4 sts. Pull to close at top of
Basic body arm. Sew in place and weave in loose ends.
Make an adjustable ring and work 6 sc into
the ring. (6sts) Lion
Fx1 Gx1 Hx1 Ix1 ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to Make one Basic body, one Basic head, and two
end. (9sts) Basic arms in yarn A.
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook ROUND 2 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to MANE
end. (12sts) With yarn B, ch 26, ss to join and form a loop.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
ROUNDS 310 Sc in each st to end. (12sts) (26sts)
Polyfill
Cut the yarn and pull through loop to secure. ROUNDS 12 Loop stitch in each stitch. (26sts)
Black embroidery thread and needle
Sew in loose end and cut off. Cut yarn, leaving long tail, and secure. Sew in
Pipe cleaner
place on head. Weave in loose ends.
White felt
Basic head TAIL
Fabric glue
Make an adjustable ring and work 6 sc into With yarn A, ch 12, ss in second ch from hook,
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential the ring. (6sts) ss along ch. (11sts)
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end. (12sts) Cut yarn and secure. Sew in place and weave
ROUND 2 *sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to in loose ends. Cut two strands of yarn B, fold
end. (18sts) in half and sew to end of tail to form tassel.
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to FINISHING
<< These puppets are made with Rowan Siena 4 Ply,
179yds/155m/50g, in A: Sorbet (683), B: Madras
end. (24sts) With black embroidery thread, add the facial
(675), C: Frost (653), D: Beacon (668), E: Cream (652), ROUNDS 46 Sc in each st to end. (24sts) details. Make two French knots for the eyes, a
F: Chilli (666), G: Topaz (689), H: White (651) and I: ROUND 7 *sc2tog, 2 sc; repeat from * to end. small triangle for the nose, and lines to form
Greengage (661). (18sts) the mouth. Weave in loose ends.
284 Toys
in yarn and cut off any loose ends. With black

embroidery thread, add the facial details.
Make two French knots in the center of the
eye patches for the eyes.
Parrot
Make one Basic body using yarn F.
Make head pattern up to round 8 using yarn F.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Stuff
the head firmly and sew onto body. Weave in
loose ends.
LOWER BEAK
ROUND 1 Sc in each st to the end. (4sts)
For the lion’s mane, refer to the Special Use bright colors, such as blue, green, and yellow
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Stuff.
stitches panel on page 283 to form the loop as shown above, for the parrot, for a tropical bird.
TOP BEAK
stitches. Make even loops by wrapping the yarn Alternatively, try green, orange, and yellow, or blue,
around your fingers. yellow, and red.
ROUNDS 12 Sc in each st to the end. (6sts)
Elephant With black embroidery thread, add the facial Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Stuff
Make one Basic body, one Basic head, and two details. Make two French knots for the eyes. and sew the top and lower beak in place.
Basic arms in yarn C. Weave in loose ends.
EARS MAKE 2 Monkey WINGS
This is not worked in a spiral. Turn your work Make one Basic body, one Basic head, and two With yarn F, make an adjustable ring, and
at the end of each row to form a semi circle. Basic arms in yarn D. work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts)
With yarn C, make an adjustable ring and MUZZLE ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end. (12sts)
work 4 sc into the ring. (4sts) With yarn E, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 2 *3 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat
ROW 1 *sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from * to end, work 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) from * to end. (15sts)
ch 1, turn. (6sts) ROUND 1 Sc in each st to the end. (6sts) ROUND 3 Sc in each st to the end.
ROW 2 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 hdc in Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. ROUND 4 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end.
last st. (8sts) Weave yarn through last 6 sts and pull to close Change to yarn G at end of this row. (12 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Sew at base of body. Sew onto head and weave in ROUND 5 Working through the back loop of
in place and weave in loose ends. loose ends. the stitch only, sc in each st to end.
TRUNK EARS MAKE 2 ROUND 6 *sc2tog, 4 sc; repeat from * to end.
With yarn C, make an adjustable ring and With yarn D, make an adjustable ring and (10sts)
work 4 sc into the ring. (4sts) work 8 sc into the ring, ss to join ring. (8sts) ROUND 7 Working through the back loop of
ROUNDS 18 Sc in each st to the end. (4sts) Cut yarn and pull through to secure. Sew in the stitch only, sc in each st to end.
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Cut place and weave in loose ends. ROUND 8 *sc2tog, 3 sc; repeat from * to end.
a pipe cleaner to the length of the trunk and EYE PATCHES (8sts)
place inside. Weave yarn end through last 4 With yarn E, make an adjustable ring and
sts; pull to close at base of trunk. Sew in place work 8 sc into the ring, ss to join ring. (8sts)
and weave in loose ends. Cut yarn and pull through to secure. Sew in
TAIL place and weave in loose ends.
With yarn C, ch 8, ss in second ch from hook, TAIL
ss along ch. (7sts) With yarn D, ch 12, ss in second ch from hook,
Cut yarn and secure. Sew in place and weave ss along ch 11sts.
in loose ends. Cut yarn and secure. Sew in place and weave
Jungle finger puppets 285
ROUND 9 Sc in each st to end. TAIL TOP ROUND 3 Sc in each st to the end. (10sts)
ROUND 10 *sc2tog, 2 sc; repeat from * to end. This is not worked in a spiral. Turn your work ROUND 4 2 sc in the first sts, sc in each st to
(6sts) at end of each row. end. (11sts)
ROUND 11 Sc in each st to end. With yarn F, ch 4. ROUND 5 Sc in each st to the end. (11sts)
ROUND 12 Sc in the first stitch, ch 4, sc in the ROW 1 Starting in second ch from hook, 2 sc, ROUND 6 2 sc in the first sts, sc in each st to
next st, ch 4, sc to end. hdc in last ch, ch 2, turn. (4sts) end. (12sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Sew ROW 2 1 hdc into hdc from prev row, 2 sc, ch 1, ROUND 7 Sc in each st to end. (12sts)
closed the hole at the base of the wing. Rejoin turn. Cut yarn and secure. Cut a felt zigzag and
yarn F to first round of loops left by back loop ROW 3 2 sc, hdc in the last st. attach with fabric glue as teeth. Sew head in
only rounds and work as follows: Cut yarn and secure. Sew top of tail onto place and weave in loose ends.
ROUND 1 *ss in first loop, sc in next, tr in next; bottom, then sew in place on the body. Weave EYES MAKE 2
repeat to end. in loose ends. With yarn H, make an adjustable ring and
Rejoin yarn G to second round of loops left by EYE PATCHES work 4 sc into the ring.
back loop only rounds and work as follows: With yarn H, make an adjustable ring and ROUND 1 Sc in each st to the end. (4sts)
ROUND 2 *ss in first loop, sc in next, tr in next; work 8 sc into the ring, ss to join ring. (8sts) Cut the yarn and weave it through the 4 sts,
repeat to last st, ss in last st. Cut yarn and secure. Sew in place and weave pull to close the hole and form the eyeball.
Cut yarn and secure. Sew the wings onto the in loose ends. With black embroidery thread, Weave in loose ends.
body. Weave in loose ends. add the facial detail. EYE SOCKETS MAKE 2
TAIL With yarn I, make an adjustable ring and work
This is not worked in a spiral. Turn your work Crocodile 5 sc into the ring.
at the end of each row. Make one Basic body, one Basic head, and two ROUNDS 12 Sc in each st to the end. (5sts)
With yarn G, ch 7. Basic arms in yarn I. Cut yarn and secure. Place around the eyeball.
ROW 1 Starting in second ch from hook, 3 sc, MOUTH MAKE 2 It should be a tight fit. Sew in place and weave
3 hdc, 2 ch, turn. (6sts) With yarn I, make an adjustable ring and work in loose ends. With black embroidery thread,
ROW 2 Starting at first hdc of prev row, 3 hdc, 6 sc into the ring. (6sts) add the facial details. Sew a line down the
3 sc, 1 ch, turn. (6sts) ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in the next st; repeat center of each eye. With yarn I, work two
ROW 3 Starting at the first sc of prev row, 3 sc, from * to end. (9sts) French knots at the end of the top of the
3 hdc. (6sts) ROUND 2 2 sc in the first sts, sc in each sts to mouth to form the nostrils.
Cut yarn and pull through loop to secure. end. (10sts)
The elephant’s trunk is made from a “tube” of eight To work the French knot eyes, wrap black White felt makes a great set of teeth for this
chain stitches with a pipe cleaner inserted inside to embroidery thread around your needle once or twice crocodile. Use one long piece or two pieces, as used
make it stick out. before inserting the needle back through the stitching. here, to create the right expression.
Bags
288 Bags
Granny square bag

A stylish twist on a classic crochet motif, this simple granny square shoulder
bag relies on bright color combinations to give it the “wow” factor. Turn to
page 102 for more information about creating a granny square.
Pattern (make 2) ROUND 8 Yarn B.
With yarn A, work 4 ch, ss in first ch to form ROUND 9 Yarn C.
PROJECTS a ring. ROUND 10 Yarn A.
For more bag patterns ROUND 1 Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), *3 dc ROUND 11 Yarn D.
>> go to pages 292, 294, and 296 into ring, 1 ch, rep from * twice, 2 dc into ring, ROUND 12 Yarn A.
join with a ss to third of 4 ch. Fasten off A.
ROUND 2 Join B into any ch sp, 3 ch (counts Making the strap
Essential information as first dc), (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in same ch sp, 1 ch, Work 121 ch.
*(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in next ch sp, 1 ch, rep from * ROW 1 1 sc into second ch from hook, 1 sc in
twice, join with a ss in top of initial 3 ch. each ch to end, turn. (120sts)
SIZE 121⁄2 x 121⁄2in (32 x 32cm) Fasten off B. ROW 2 1 sc in each sc, turn.
ROUND 3 Join C into any corner ch sp, 3 ch Repeat row 2 four more times. Fasten off yarn.
YARN You can substitute any DK weight,
(counts as first dc), (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in same
wool-blend yarn for this project
ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, *(3 dc, 2 Finishing
ch, 3 dc) in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, Press the front and back pieces according to
1 ch rep from * twice, join with a ss in top of ball-band instructions.
Ax3 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1
initial 3 ch. Fasten off C. Place front and back with WS together, rejoin
ROUND 4 Join A into any corner ch sp, 3 ch yarn A to top left corner space and working
CROCHET HOOK F/5 US (3.75mm) hook (counts as first dc), (2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in same through front and back join on three sides as
ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in follows, 1 sc in ch sp, *1 sc in top of each of
NOTIONS Yarn needle
next ch sp, 1 ch, *(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in next ch next 3 dc, 1 sc in ch sp, rep from * to corner,
Cotton material for lining, measuring 241⁄2 x
sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next ch sp, 1 ch, 3 dc in next 3 sc in corner ch sp, rep from * to next corner
121⁄4in (62 x 31cm), plus seam allowance
ch sp, 1 ch, rep from * twice, join with a ss in sp, 3 sc in corner ch sp, rep from * to top
Sewing needle and matching thread
top of initial 3 ch. Fasten off A. right-hand corner, leaving top of bag open.
GAUGE Rounds 1–3 measure 3in (8cm) Continue working each round in color Work 1 row of sc evenly along top edges of
sequence as follows, working as round 4. front and back.
Each round will have 1 extra 3 dc in ch sp Sew shoulder strap to sides of bag.
and 1 ch, worked on each side of the square; Weave in all ends.
corners remain the same. Fold lining material in half with RS together,
ROUND 5 Yarn D. sew around three sides. Place lining in bag and
ROUND 6 Yarn B. fold over top edge. Sew top seam of lining to
ROUND 7 Yarn A. crochet bag.
>> This bag is made with Sublime Extra Fine Merino

DK, 127yds/116m/50g, in A: Grey (18), B: Julep (307),
C: Red currant (17), and D: Gem (361).
290 Bags
Straw beach bag

The bottom of this eye-catching yet practical bag is worked in rows, and
then the rest of the bag is worked in the round, to the desired height.
Pattern
FOUNDATION ROW With yarn A, work 47 ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 Hdc in third ch from hook and in each
For more half double patterns ch across, turn. (46sts)
>> go to pages 230 and 246 ROW 2 Ch 2, hdc in each stitch across, turn.
(46sts)
ROWS 311 Repeat row 2.
Essential information Now working in rounds.
ROUND 1 Ch 1, sc in each st to end of row,
2 sc in each row end, 1 sc in back of each
SIZE 121⁄2 x 22in (32 x 56cm) foundation ch, 2 sc in each row end, join
with a ss. (136sts)
YARN Any aran-weight, durable yarn (held double)
ROUND 2 Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join
such as cotton, linen, or string will work
with a ss.
ROUNDS 316 Repeat round 2.
ROUNDS 1728 With yarn B, repeat round 2.
Ax7 Bx6
Handles This bag has a very sturdy base, achieved by
CROCHET HOOK H/8 US (5mm) hook ROUND 29 Ch 2, hdc in next 12 sts, 60 ch, skip working in straight rows. The hemp yarn used here
next 20 sts, hdc in next 48 sts, 60 ch, skip makes for a summery feel, but for a slightly more
NOTIONS Yarn needle
next 20 sts, hdc in next 35 sts, join with a ss. rigid bag use raffia.
⁄4in (2cm) button
3
ROUND 30 Hdc in each stitch and ch around,
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential join with a ss.
ROUNDS 3132 Hdc in each stitch around. ROWS 34 Repeat row 2.
NOTE Ch 2 at the beginning of each hdc row Fasten off. ROW 5 Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, 2 ch, skip next
or round is classed as the first st worked in 2 sts, sc in last 4 sts, turn.
the first st of previous row. Fastening flap ROW 6 Ch 1, sc in first 4 sts, sc in each of the
Ch 1 at the beginning of each sc row or round With yarn B, work 11 ch. 2 chs, sc in last 4 sts, turn.
is classed as the first st worked in the first st ROW 1 Sc in second ch from hook and in each ROWS 720 Repeat row 2.
of previous row. ch across, turn. (10sts) Sc evenly around entire flap to neaten.
Hold yarn double for extra strength. ROW 2 Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (10sts) Fasten off. Sew flap and button onto bag.
>> This bag is made with Expressions hand-colored

hemp, 4-ply, 93yds/85m/93yds, in A: Wow (orange)
and B: Yippi (green).
292 Bags
Super-stretchy shopper
This handy shopping bag is made in the round, with a solid base and a mesh
body. Worked in single crochet, the fabric is strong and flexible, and so the
bag will expand to fit lots of shopping inside.
Pattern ROUND 17 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 15 sts,
Work 2 ch. rep from * around. (136sts)
PROJECTS ROUND 1 8 sc in second chain from hook. ROUND 18 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 16 sts,
For more single crochet patterns ROUND 2 2 sc in first st, and in each st around. rep from * around. (144sts)
>> go to pages 36 and 170 (16 sc). Do not join with a ss. Continue to ROUND 19 Sc in each st around.
work in a spiral, remembering to mark the ROUNDS 2023 Repeat round 19.
first st of each round.
ROUND 3 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, rep Mesh rounds
Essential information from * around. (24sts) Now mark the first 4-ch sp (see p.76) at the
ROUND 4 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, beginning of each round.
rep from * around. (32sts) ROUND 24 *Ch 4, skip 2 sts, sc in next, rep
SIZE Approx 10 x 13in (25.5 x 33cm), with 19in ROUND 5 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, from * around, ending with a 4 ch.
(48.5cm) handles rep from * around. (40sts) ROUND 25 Sc in first 4-ch sp, *4 ch, sc in
ROUND 6 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, next 4-ch sp, rep from * around, ending
YARN You can use any DK cotton or cotton mix
rep from * around. (48sts) with a 4 ch.
yarn here to get a similar effect
ROUND 7 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, ROUNDS 2665 Repeat round 25.
rep from * around. (56sts) ROUND 66 Sc in next sc (mark this stitch),
ROUND 8 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts, *2 sc in next 4-ch sp, sc in next st, rep from
x5 rep from * around. (64sts) * around.
ROUND 9 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, ROUND 67 Sc in first st (mark this stitch),
CROCHET HOOK 7 US (4.5mm) hook rep from * around. (72sts) and in each st around.
ROUND 10 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts, ROUNDS 6870 Repeat round 67. Fasten off.
rep from * around. (80sts)
Yarn needle
ROUND 11 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, Handles (make 2)
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential rep from * around. (88sts) Work 13 ch.
ROUND 12 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, ROW 1 Sc in second chain from hook and in
NOTE Mark the first stitch of each round. rep from * around. (96sts) each ch across, turn. (12sts)
ROUND 13 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts, ROW 2 Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12sts)
rep from * around. (104sts) ROWS 346 Repeat row 2. Fasten off.
ROUND 14 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 12 sts, Sew the handles on the bag and weave in ends.
ROUND 15 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 13 sts,
ROUND 16 *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, >> This bag is made with Rowan Softknit Cotton,
rep from * around. (128sts) 115yds/105m/50g, in Sunset red (582).
Crocheting in the round is easy to achieve and
allows you to be more versatile with your stitches.
Turn to page 126 if you want to try something new,
such as making this bag from string.
SIZE Approx 12 x 93⁄4in (30 x 25cm) with 91⁄2in

(24cm) straps
YARN You can use any 100 percent cotton 4-ply

weight yarn for this project
x3
NOTIONS Yarn needle
TENSION 18 hdc x 16 rows per 4in (10cm)
BEG HDC: begin half double stitch. Ch 2, insert
hook in second ch from hook, yo, pull up a loop,
insert hook in next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo
and draw hook through all 3 loops.
HDC2TOG: work 2 half double stitches together.
(Yo and insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop
through) twice, yo and draw through all
5 loops on hook—1 st decreased.
Everyday bag 295
Everyday bag
This useful everyday bag is worked in the round, increasing until you reach the
desired width, then working straight to desired height. The bag is then divided
for the handles, which are broad, making them very comfortable to hold.
ROUND 7 Work beg hdc, work another hdc ROW 2 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 22 sts,
PROJECTS in same st, *hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next, hdc2tog, turn.
For more bag patterns repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg ROW 3 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 20 sts,
>> go to pages 288, 290, and 292 hdc. (56sts) hdc2tog, turn.
ROUND 8 Work beg hdc, work another hdc ROW 4 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 18 sts,
in same st, *hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next, hdc2tog, turn.
Pattern repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg ROW 5 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 16 sts,
Work 4 ch, ss in first chain to form a ring. hdc. (64sts) hdc2tog, turn.
ROUND 1 Ch 2, insert hook in second chain ROUND 9 Beg hdc in next st, hdc in each st to ROW 6 Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 sts,
from hook, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in end, join with a ss to beg hdc. (64sts) hdc2tog, turn.
next stitch, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw hook ROUNDS 1012 Repeat round 9. ROW 7 Beg hdc in first st, hdc in next
through all 3 loops on hook (beg hdc made), ROUND 13 Work beg hdc, hdc in same st, *hdc 15 sts, turn.
work 7 hdc into loop, join with a ss to beg in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next, repeat from * ROWS 834 Repeat row 7. At the end of row 34
hdc. (8sts) to end, join with a ss to beg hdc. (72sts) fasten off.
ROUND 2 Work beg hdc, work another hdc ROUNDS 1416 Repeat round 9. (72sts) Join yarn with a ss in beg hdc of row 1, and
in same st, *2 hdc in next st, repeat from * ROUND 17 Work beg hdc, hdc in same st, *hdc work as follows:
to end, join with a ss to beg hdc. (16sts) in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * Hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 24
ROUND 3 Work beg hdc, work another hdc to end, join with a ss to beg hdc. (80sts) sts, hdc2tog, turn leaving remaining 20 sts
in same st, * hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next, ROUNDS 1820 Repeat round 9. unworked.
repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg ROUND 21 Work beg hdc, hdc in same st, *hdc Repeat rows 2–34. At the end of row 34, do
hdc. (24sts) in next 9 sts, 2 hdc in next st, repeat from * not fasten off.
ROUND 4 Work beg hdc, work another hdc to end, join with a ss to beg hdc. (88sts) With wrong sides of handles held together,
in same st, *hdc in next 2 sts, 2 hdc in next, ROUNDS 2224 Repeat round 9. hdc ends of handles together to join.
repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg ROUND 25 Work beg hdc, hdc in same st, *hdc Fasten off.
hdc. (32sts) in next 10 sts, 2 in next, repeat from * to end,
ROUND 5 Work beg hdc, work another hdc join with a ss to beg hdc. (96sts) Edging for handles
in same st, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next, ROUNDS 2642 Repeat round 9. At the end of Join yarn with a sc in row end where handles
repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg round 42, do not fasten off. (96sts) are joined, sc in each row end of handle, sc in
hdc. (40sts) next 20 sts of bag, and sc in each row end of
ROUND 6 Work beg hdc, work another hdc Handles (working in rows) other side of handle; join with a ss to first sc.
in same st, *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next, ROW 1 Beg hdc, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog, Fasten off, weave in ends.
repeat from * to end, join with a ss to beg hdc in next 24 sts, hdc2tog, turn, leaving
hdc. (48sts) remaining 58 sts unworked.
<< This bag is made with Debbie Bliss Eco Baby,

137yds/125m/50g, in Mint (14020).
296 Bags
Diamond granny bag

Textured granny squares crocheted together ensure this fully lined bag will be
a joy to crochet and to use. This bright and cheerful project has an attractive,
striped strap and button closure.
Pattern the corner 2-ch sp, ([1 ch, 3 dc] into the
Each completed granny square should following 1-ch sp) 3 times, 1 ch, repeat from *
PROJECTS measure approx 5 x 5in (12 x 12cm). twice, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into the corner 2-ch sp,
For more granny square patterns (1 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch) into the following 1-ch sp,
>> go to pages 148, 154, and 302 Granny square ss into the second ch at beginning of round.
With first color, work 4 ch. Join with ss in last Fasten off.
ch from hook to form loop.
Essential information ROUND 1 Ch 3 (always counts as 1 dc), (2 dc, Work 12 more squares.
2 ch) into the ring, *(3 dc, 2 ch) into the ring, The colors used for each granny square and
repeat from * twice, ending with a ss into their corresponding numbers for assembly
SIZE 14 x 12in (35 x 30cm), strap measures the second ch at the beginning of the round, (shown below) can simply be used as a guide
27in (68cm) long changing to second color on the pull through, for substituting any color of choice:
turn work. SQUARE PARTS YARN USED
YARN Any DK weight yarn will be suitable
ROUND 2 (3 ch, 2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into the 2-ch 1 Folded (strap) C, D, J, H, A
sp, *1 ch, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc), into the corner 2 Front B, J, F, H, A
2-ch sp, repeat from * twice, ending with 3 Folded (side) H, G, C, I, A
Ax2 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1 1 ch, ss into the second ch at beginning of 4 Folded (base) F, C, J, B, A
round, changing to third color on the pull 5 Front J, B, H, D, A
through, turn work. 6 Front C, J, I, E, A
ROUND 3 (3 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch), into the 1-ch sp, * 7 Folded (base) C, I, J, F, A
Fx1 Gx1 Hx1 Ix1 Jx1 (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into the corner 2-ch sp, (1 ch, 8 Folded (strap) J, D, F, H, A
3 dc, 1 ch) into the following 1-ch sp, repeat 9 Folded (side) C, J, B, F, A
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook from * twice, (3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into the 2-ch sp, 10 Back B, H, F, J, A
1 ch, ss into the second ch at beginning of 11 Back J, B, D, H, A
round, changing to fourth color on the pull 12 Back J, H, E, I, A
Yarn needle
through, turn work. Flap Attach to 10 and 12 H, J, B, C, A
2 bag rings, 21⁄2in (6cm) wide
ROUND 4 (3 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch), into the ch sp,
Button, 11⁄4in (3cm) diameter
*(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into the corner 2-ch sp,
Cotton material for lining, measuring 241⁄2 x
([1 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch] into the following 1-ch sp)
121⁄4in (62 x 31cm), plus seam allowance
twice, 1 ch, repeat from * twice, (3 dc, 2 ch,
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential 3 dc) into the corner 2-ch sp, (1 ch, 3 dc, 1 ch)
into the following ch sp, ending with a ss
into the second ch at beginning of round,
>> This bag is made with Berroco Vintage DK, 252yds/
changing to fifth color on the pull through, 230m/100g, in A: Cast iron (2145), B: Bubble (21106),
turn work. C: Dark denim (2143), D: Delphinium (2155), E: Pool party
ROUND 5 (3 ch, 2 dc, 1 ch) into the ch sp, (3 dc, (21107), F: Envy (2162), G: Breezeway (2194), H: Fondant
1 ch) into next 1-ch sp *(3dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) into (2110), I: Minty (2112), and J: Mushroom (2104).
298 Bags
Diamond granny bag 299
the outer (back loop) only, sc to the last st,

fasten off, leaving a long end for weaving in.
FLAP ROW 2 Starting back at the first st, and using
1 8 yarn B, ss into the first ch, 1 ch, sc in back
loop only to end of row, fasten off, leaving
a long end for weaving in.
2 6
(10 back) (12 back) Repeat row 2 for five more rows, changing
color for each row to D, H, J, F, I.
NEXT ROW With yarn A, ss along edge of last
5 row, in back loop only. Fasten off, leaving a
3 (11 back) 9
long end for weaving in.
4 7
Edging for bag opening
With yarn A and RS of the back of bag facing,
join with a ss at the point where square
number 8 is joined to the flap.
Joining squares Ch 1, sc around the top of bag opening,
Follow the chart given for placement of ending with a ss back into the first ch. Turn
each square, above. work, do not fasten off.
To join the squares, place two squares WS
together, and with yarn A, join with a ss at Flap edging
the corner, into 1 loop from each square, 1 ch, ROW 1 Work 39 sc along the edge of flap,
O-rings and D-rings make it easy to attach straps
sc along the edges into 2 loops only (thus place a marker, turn work.
to a handmade bag. They are available in metal,
creating a ridge on the right side of work). ROW 2 Join in yarn D with a ss and working plastic, and wood, and come in a variety of sizes. We’ve
in outer loop only, work 39 sc to end of chosen black plastic to coordinate with the yarn. Fold
Bag loops flap, fasten off. the edges of your crocheted straps around the bars of
With yarn A, work 16 ch. ROW 3 Beginning at marker, repeat row 2 each O-ring and sew in place to secure.
ROW 1 Sc into the second ch from the hook using yarn H.
and sc to end. (15sts) ROW 4 Repeat row 3 using yarn B.
ROW 2 1 ch, sc to end of row. ROW 5 Repeat row 3 using yarn A. Finishing
Repeat row 2 for 8 rows. Fasten off, leaving ROW 6 With yarn A, begin at marker, 1 ch, Fold bag loop in half, lengthwise, insert plastic
a long end for weaving in. sc along side edges of flap to neaten, work loop, and sew onto topmost granny square.
19 sc, ch 6 to make buttonhole, do not work Repeat for other side.
Strap the next st, sc to end, working up the side Neaten strap edges and sew onto bag loops.
With yarn A, work 112 ch, fasten off, leaving edge of flap to neaten, turn work. Weave in all ends.
a long end for weaving in. ROW 7 Ch 1, sc to 6-ch loop, work 10 sc into Cut the cotton lining material to shape using
ROW 1 Starting back at the first ch and with the 6-ch loop, sc to end of flap, ending with the bag as a template. Make a small hem and
yarn G, ss into the first ch, 1 ch, working into a ss into last st. sew the lining inside the bag. Sew on a button.
TOP Use a 50 percent co

TIP tton
yarn h.
, or a ni s
wool mix, for a matte fi
300 Bags
Clutch bag
This bag is worked in rows, with two different stitches on different parts of the
bag. It is then folded and sewn, to turn it into a clutch bag. Turn to pages 42–43
for more information about double crochet.
Pattern
Work 37 ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 Sc in second chain from hook and in
For more double crochet patterns each chain across, turn. (36sts)
>> go to pages 44 and 234 ROW 2 Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (36sts)
Repeat row 2 until piece measures approx
91⁄2in (24cm) from beginning.
Essential information NEXT ROW Ch 3, dc decrease next 2 sts tog,
skip sc directly below 3 ch, and the next sc,
(dc, 1 ch, dc) all in next sc, 1 ch, * skip next sc,
SIZE 81⁄4 x 41⁄2in (21 x 11.5cm) (dc, 1 ch, dc) all in next sc, 1 ch, rep from * to
last 3 sts, dc decrease last 3 sts tog, turn.
YARN You can use any cotton or cotton-blend DK
NEXT ROW Ch 1, sc in first dc, and in each
yarn; try adding Lurex® to get a similar effect
1-ch sp across to last st, sc in third of ch 3
of previous row, turn. The yarn used for this evening clutch has
Ch 3, skip next st, *dc, ch 1, dc in next st, ch 1, a silver thread running through it for a party finish.
x2 skip next st, rep from * to last st, dc in last st. Alternatively, crochet your bag in a dark, matte yarn
Repeat last two rows until lacy section and apply one or two small rhinestones.
CROCHET HOOK G/6 US (4mm) hook measures approx 21⁄2in (6cm) from the start
of doubles row, ending with a sc row.
NOTIONS Yarn needle
⁄8in (1cm) pearl button
3
Finishing
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential Fold bottom of bag up 43⁄4in (12cm) and sew >> This clutch is made with Sirdar Ella Summer
side seams. Line up top of bag to sew on Luxe Cotton Blend DK, 138yds/126m/50g, in
button. Weave in all ends. Peppermint (0007).
TOP .
In sert a piec t ch rig id
TIP e of fo
l ded th e clu
cardboard to keep
Child’s turtle backpack 303
Child’s turtle backpack

This animal-themed bag is a great, fun way for children to carry around their
odds and ends. The turtle’s belly is made with single crochet stitch worked in
the round, while his shell is formed from seven granny hexagons.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS ch sp, 3 dc in next ch sp; rep from * to end,
ADJUSTABLE RING: See p. 57 ss to join the round. (54 dc, 6-ch sp)
PROJECTS BEGINNING BOBBLE ST: Ch 2, yo, insert hook in HEXAGON MOTIFS
For more granny motif patterns stitch, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through 2 Motif 1: Color 1 A, color 2 E, color 3 D.
>> go to pages 104–106 loops on the hook, yo, insert hook in same space, Motifs 2, 3, and 4: Color 1 A, color 2 E,
yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through 2 loops color 3 B.
on hook, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook. Motifs 5, 6, and 7: Color 1 D, color 2 E,
Essential information BOBBLE STITCH: See p. 198 color 3 C.
HTR: half treble stitch. This is a simple variation
DIFFICULTY Intermediate
on the treble stitch (see p. 48). Yo twice, insert Joining motifs
SIZE Approx 151⁄4 x 141⁄4in (39 x 36cm) hook in next stitch and draw up a loop (4 loops Use yarn E to join motifs together. Put motifs
on hook), yo and draw through two loops (3 loops 1 and 2 together with the wrong side facing.
YARN You can use any DK yarn for this project
on hook), yo and draw through all 3 loops (1 loop Work stitches over both of the motifs to join
on hook). together. Join yarn at a ch sp, sc in ch sp,
along next 9 sts, sc in ch space. Motif 2 is now
Ax2 Bx1 Cx1 Dx1 Ex1 attached. Next attach motif 5 to the next side
of motif 1 in the same way. Then working
CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) and G/6 US Bag front counterclockwise around all the sides of motif
(4mm) hooks HEXAGON MOTIFS PATTERN 1, add the next four motifs as shown in the
With yarn A (color 1) and E/4 US (3.5mm) diagram below.
hook, make an adjustable ring and work 6 sc
Yarn needle
into the ring, ss to join ring. (6sts)
2 x 13⁄4in (4.5cm ) buckles
ROUND 1 Work beginning bobble st in first st,
1
(2 ch, bobble st) in remaining 5 sts, ss into Hexagon motifs diagram
12in (30cm) zipper
top of first bobble to join round. (6 bobbles, START HERE
Fabric for lining: 2 circles 13in (33cm) diameter
6-ch sp)
Polyfill
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull through.
Strong cotton tape for straps, optional
Join second yarn (color 2) at any ch sp.
M2 M6
GAUGE 19 sts x 14 rows per 4in (10cm) ROUND 2 Work beginning bobble st in ch sp,
2 ch, bobble st in same ch sp, 2 ch, (bobble st,
2 ch, bobble st, 2 ch) in remaining 5-ch sp.
Ss into top of first bobble to join round. M5 M1 M3
(12 bobbles, 12-ch sp)

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail, and pull through.
<< This bag is made with Rowan Handknit Cotton, Join third yarn (color 3) at any ch sp. M4 M7
93yds/85m/50g, in A: Gooseberry (219), B: Rosso (215), ROUND 3 (2 ch, 2 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in first ch sp,
C: Blue John (365) D: Yacht (357), and E: Ecru (251). 3 dc in next ch sp, *(3 dc, 2 ch, 3 dc) in next
304 Bags
Complete by joining the sides of the motifs Bag back ROUND 11 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
together in the same way. With yarn A and E/4 US (3.5mm) hook, make end. (72sts)
Join yarn E to the ch sp marked by the arrow an adjustable ring and work 6 sc into ring. (6sts) ROUND 12 *11 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
in the Hexagon motifs diagram on page 303. ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end, place marker. end. (78sts)
Work in rounds around the edges of the (12sts) ROUND 13 *12 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
joined-up hexagons. ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (84sts)
ROUND 1 Dc in every st and every outer ch sp end. (18sts) ROUND 14 *13 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
around. (174sts) ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (90sts)
Change to yarn A and use a stitch marker to end. (24sts) ROUND 15 *14 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
mark the first stitch of each new round. ROUND 4 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (96sts)
ROUND 2 *10 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, 2 htr, 5 dtr, end. (30sts) ROUND 16 *15 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
2 htr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc; rep from * to end. ROUND 5 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (102sts)
ROUND 3 Dc in each st to end. end. (36sts) ROUND 17 *16 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 4 *27 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to end. ROUND 6 *5 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (108sts)
(168sts) end. (42sts) ROUND 18 *17 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 5 Dc in each st to end. ROUND 7 *6 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (114sts)
ROUND 6 *26 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to end. end. (48sts) ROUND 19 *18 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
(162sts) ROUND 8 *7 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (120sts)
ROUND 7 Dc in each st to end. end. (54sts) ROUND 20 *19 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 8 *25 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to end. ROUND 9 *8 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (126sts)
(156sts) end. (60sts) ROUND 21 *20 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
ROUND 9 Dc in each st to end. ROUND 10 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (132sts)
Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. end. (66sts) ROUND 22 *21 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
end. (138sts)
ROUND 23 *22 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
end. (144sts)
end. (150sts)
end. (156sts)
ROUNDS 2629 Dc in each st to end. Cut the
yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Sew the
front and back together leaving a 12in (30cm)
gap at one end.
Cut two pieces of lining fabric slightly larger
than the entire bag. Sew the pieces together,
leaving a 12in (30cm) gap at one end. Turn
RS out and pin in place inside the bag. Pin a
12in (30cm) zipper into the opening. Sew
zipper and lining in place.
Turtle head
With yarn A and E/4 US (3.5mm) hook, make
an adjustable ring and work 6 sc into ring. (6 sts)
Give your turtle a happy smile using two large An adjustable buckle is really useful, since it will
ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to end, place marker.
backstitches. Use safety eyes to prevent little fingers allow the straps to be as long or short as you like.
from pulling them out and attach them when stated Plastic and metal buckles are available at most fabric (12sts)
within the pattern. stores. Choose a contrasting color to stand out or a ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
coordinating shade of green to blend in. end. (18sts)
Child’s turtle backpack 305
A white zipper and lining

fabric work well for this project,
but since they will not be
visible for most of the time,
you can use whatever color
you prefer. Attach the zipper
using a long strand of
matching yarn or thread.
ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to Legs (make 4) ROUND 3 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
end. (24sts) With yarn A and E/4 US (3.5mm) hook, make end. (10sts)
ROUND 4 *3 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to an adjustable ring and work 6 sc into ring. (6sts) ROUND 4 *4 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
end. (30sts) ROUND 1 2 sc into each st to the end, place end. (12sts)
ROUND 5 *9 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to marker. (12sts) ROUNDS 56 sc in each st to end. (15sts)
end. (33sts) ROUND 2 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure.
ROUND 6 *10 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (18sts) Stuff the tail. Sew the head, legs, and tail onto
end. (36sts) ROUND 3 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to the body of the backpack. Weave in loose ends.
ROUND 7 *11 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to end. (24sts)
end. (39sts) Mark this round with a stitch ROUNDS 46 Dc in each st to end. Straps (make 4)
marker. ROUND 7 *sc2tog, 6 sc; rep from * to end. These are worked straight. Turn your work at
ROUND 8 *12 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to (21sts) the end of each row.
end. (42sts) ROUNDS 89 Dc in each st to end. With yarn A and G/6 US (4mm) hook, ch 7.
ROUNDS 912 Dc in each st to end. ROUND 10 *sc2tog, 5 sc; rep from * to end. ROW 1 Starting in second ch from hook, sc in
ROUND 13 *12 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to end. (18sts) each st, ch 1, turn.
(39sts) ROUNDS 1112 Dc in each st to the end. Cut the ROW 2 Dc in each st, ch 1, turn.
ROUND 14 *11 sc, sc2tog; rep from * to end. yarn, leaving a long tail, and secure. Stuff. Repeat the last row until the strap is 14in
(36sts) (35cm) long. Cut the yarn and secure.
ROUNDS 1516 Dc in each st to end. Tail Strengthen the straps with strong cotton tape,
ROUND 17 *sc2tog, 4 sc; rep from * to end. With yarn A and E/4 US (3.5mm) hook, make if desired. Sew the end of two straps onto the
(30sts) an adjustable ring and work 4 sc into ring. (4sts) middle bar of the buckles. Sew the straps in
ROUND 18 *sc2tog, 3 sc; rep from * to end. ROUND 1 *1 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to place on the bag. Thread the other end of the
(24sts) end, place marker. (6sts) straps through the buckle to finish.
Cut the yarn and secure. Put eyes on the ROUND 2 *2 sc, 2 sc in next st; rep from * to
marked round 12 sts apart. Stuff the head. end. (8sts)
306 Bags
Change purses
These tiny projects are ideal for getting children into crochet. They are both
worked in the round, in two different ways, to create small pouches for change.
Round purse 180 degrees and work along other side of ch,
Make 2 ch and work 6 sc into second ch from working 1 sc into the bottom of each ch, do
PROJECTS hook, join round with a ss to first st. not join round.
For more single crochet patterns ROUND 1 1 ch, work 2 sc in each sc around, ROUND 2 1 sc into each sc around.
>> go to pages 64, 218, and 266 do not join round, place marker. (12sts) Rep last round for desired height of purse,
ROUND 2 (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 1 sc) sample shown is 23⁄4in (7cm), changing colors
around. (18sts) for striping where desired.
Essential information ROUND 3 (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 2 sc) Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
around. (24sts)
ROUND 4 (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 3 sc) Finishing
SIZE Round purse: approx 4in (10cm) diameter around. (30sts) Sew zipper into top of each purse. Make a
Rectangular purses: approx 31⁄2 x 23⁄4in (9 x 7cm) ROUND 5 (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 4 sc) tassel (see p. 74) and attach it by inserting the
around. (36sts) strands through the zipper hole, securing as
YARN Any fine crochet thread will work
ROUND 6 (2 sc in next sc, 1 sc in next 5 sc) normal and adding a bead, if desired.
around. (42sts)
Continue in this way, working one extra st
Ax6 Bx2 Cx2 Dx2 Ex6 between increases in each round until you
have worked 9 rounds and have 60 sts.
CROCHET HOOK B/1 US (2.5mm) hook Work straight on these 60 sts for 7 rounds.
ROUND 17 (sc2tog, 1 sc in next 8 sc) around.
(54sts)
Yarn needle
Work 2 rounds straight.
31⁄2in (9cm) zipper for each change purse
Bead (optional)
(48sts)
GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential Work one round straight.
(42sts)
NOTE Change purses are worked in spirals. Work two rounds straight.
Do not join rounds, but place a marker at first Fasten off yarn and weave in ends.
stitch of the round, moving it each round to
mark the beginning of the next round. Rectangular purse When choosing a bead to attach to your zipper,
Work 31 ch. make sure that it’s central hole is sufficiently large
ROUND 1 3 sc into second ch from hook, 1 sc enough to thread the strands of yarn through. Tie
in each ch to last ch, 3 sc in last ch, turn work a knot right up close to the bead to secure.
>> These change purses are made with Rowan Siena

4 -ply, 306yds/280m/100g, in A: White (651),
B: Topaz (689), C: Tandoori (676), D: Greengage (661),
and E: Mariner (672).
308 Bags
Tablet sleeve
This practical, crocheted tablet cover is quick to work both in the round and in
rows, and it will protect your tablet from knocks and scratches. It closes with
a button-and-loop fastening for easy access.
Pattern
Work 30 ch.
PROJECTS ROW 1 Work 1 hdc in second ch from hook
For more half double patterns (2 ch count as a st), work 1 hdc in each st to
>> go to pages 40 and 294 end. (29sts)
Continue to work 1 hdc in each st on the back
side of the foundation chain to end. (58sts)
Essential information Begin working in rounds. Do not turn or join.
ROUND 131 1 hdc in each st.
ROUND 32 1 hdc in each st, ch 1, turn.
SIZE Approx 10 x 8in (25 x 20cm) Begin working in rows.
ROW 1 1 hdc in next 29 sts, ch 1, turn. (29sts)
YARN You can use any chunky weight yarn to
ROW 2 1 hdc in each st, ch 1, turn.
complete this project; some synthetic fiber is
ROWS 39 Repeat row 2.
preferable, for durability
ROW 10 1 hdc in first 13 st, ch 3, miss 3 st,
1 hdc in last 13 sts, ch 1, turn.
ROW 11 1 sc in first 13 st, 3 sc in ch loop, 1 sc
x2 in last 13 st.
Half double crochet, worked in a chunky yarn,
CROCHET HOOK I/9 US (5.5mm) hook
creates a dense fabric that is ideal for protecting
your tablet screen from getting scratched or knocked. Finishing
NOTIONS Yarn needle
A stylish button adds a decorative feature and gives Place a tablet in the cover and close the flap
11⁄4in (3cm) button, in tonal color
this case a modern look. to mark the position of the button. Attach the
GAUGE 14 sts x 14 rows per 4in (10cm) square button securely with a strand of yarn.
>> This sleeve is made with Lion Brand Jiffy Solid,

135yds/123m/85g, in Apple green (132).
C h o o s e a s y n th e t i c ya TOP
rn t
o pr re en.
otect your s c TIP
310 Glossary
Glossary
Adjustable ring A method of beginning crochet Decrease Removing a stitch or stitches to reduce two colors in each row, in which the color not in
in the round that allows you to pull the ring tightly the number of working stitches and shape the fabric. use is carried across the top of the row below and
closed after the first round, thus eliminating the covered with the stitches of the other color so that
unsightly central hole (see p. 57). Single crochet join An invisible way of joining in it is hidden from view. This results in a thicker-than-
new yarn, using single crochet stitches, when at the normal fabric, so it is best worked in a fine yarn.
Afghan stitch See Tunisian stitch. Afghan stitches end of the current row or round.
are shaped like little squares with two horizontal Medallion (or motif) A flat-shaped piece of
strands of yarn and a vertical bar on top. Dye lot A record taking during the dyeing of yarn to crochet worked from the center outward.
identify it. Use yarn from one dye lot for each project
Afghan square An alternative name for the and do not mix the dye batches or your crochet Möebius strip Also called a twisted cylinder, this
granny square. fabric may change in tone. shape is a loop with a half-twist in it. Often used as
a shape for crocheted cowls.
Amigurumi A Japanese style of crocheting, or Fibers Yarn is made up of fibers, such as the hair
knitting, small animals and other objects, often from an animal, man-made (synthetic) fibers, or Notions Items other than fabric or yarn needed
with anthropomorphic features. fibers derived from a plant. The fibers are processed to complete a project, such as a button, zipper, or
and spun into a yarn. elastic. Notions are normally listed in the pattern.
Back and front posts Vertical segments of
a crochet stitch. Filet crochet A form of openwork crochet created Openwork crochet A lacelike effect created by
by working a combination of squares or rectangles working chain spaces and/or loops between the
Ball band The wrapper around a ball of yarn that of open mesh and solid blocks. basic stitches.
usually details fiber content, weight, length, hook
size, gauge, and washing instructions. Foundation chain The base of chain stitches that Plying This is a process used to create a strong,
the first row of crochet is worked onto. balanced yarn. All yarns are made from more than
Ball-winder A device for winding hanks of yarn one strand of spun fiber, so 4-ply is four strands plied
into balls; also used to wind two or more strands Front and back loop only A crochet instruction together. Plying prevents the yarn from twisting.
together to make a double-stranded yarn. Often to indicate that the hook should be inserted into
used in conjunction with a swift. either the front or back loop only of a stitch. Raised stitches Three-dimensional crochet
stitches, such as bobbles and puffs, that create
Blocking Manipulating the finished piece into Gauge The number of stitches and rows over texture. Great for hats and blankets.
the correct shape by wetting and pinning it out, a given area, usually 4in (10cm) square. Also, the
or pinning it out and steam-pressing it. relative tightness used by the crocheter. Changing Right side (RS) The front of a piece of fabric, the
hook size can help achieve correct gauge. side that will normally be in view when the piece is
Broomstick lace A lacy stitch made using both finished.
a crochet hook and knitting needle. Hank A twisted ring of yarn that needs to be wound
into one or more balls before it can be used. Round A row worked in a circle, with the last
Button loop An alternative to a buttonhole, a stitch of a row being joined to the first to complete
chain loop is crocheted into the last two rows, or Increase Adding a stitch or stitches to increase the circle.
edging, on a piece of crocheted fabric (see p. 89). the number of working stitches and shape the fabric.
Roving A long and narrow bundle of unspun
Chain loop, chain space A length of chain Intarsia A technique in which a color appears fiber, produced during the process of making
stitches worked between basic stitches to create only in a section of a row and is not needed across spun yarn from wool fleeces. Rovings are used
a space in the fabric. the whole row. Unlike jacquard crochet, more than mainly for spinning, but can also be used for
two colors may be worked in a row. A separate ball or making many kinds of felted items and other
Colorwork Any method of incorporating color into length of yarn is used for each area of color and specialty textiles.
crochet, including stripes, jacquard, and intarsia. carried vertically up to the next row when it is
needed again. Row Working back and forth in rows to create a
Darning in ends The process of completing a piece of crocheted fabric. Turn the work at the end
piece of crochet by weaving in the yarn ends using Jacquard crochet A type of colorwork crochet of each row, making a turning chain, and start back
a blunt-ended yarn needle to disguise them. worked in single crochet stitch, with no more than across the next row.
Glossary 311
Seam The join formed when two pieces of fabric Tension Another term for gauge. VelcroTM Two-part fabric fastening consisting
are sewn or crocheted together. of two layers, a “hook” side and a “loop” side; when
Tunisian crochet Also known as afghan crochet, pressed together the two pieces cling together.
Slipknot A knot that is formed when placing a style of crochet that takes elements from
the first loop on a crochet hook. both knitting and crochet, creating a fusion of Wool A natural animal fiber, available in a range
techniques. A Tunisian hook looks similar to a of weights, weaves, and textures. It is warm,
Slip stitch The shortest of all the crochet stitches. knitting needle but either has a hook at both ends, comfortable to wear, and crease-resistant.
Although slip stitches can be worked in rows, the or a hook at one end and a stopper at the other.
resulting fabric is very dense and suitable only for The resulting fabric is slightly less elastic than Wrong side (WS) The reverse of a piece of
bag handles. Slip stitches are frequently used to join normal crochet. fabric, the side that will normally be hidden from
new yarn, to work invisibly along the top of a row to view when the piece is finished.
move to a new position, and to join rounds. Turning chain A length of stitches worked at the
start of a row in order to bring the hook up to the Yarn Fibers that have been spun into a long
Skein Yarn wound into an oblong shape that is necessary height to work the first stitch of that row strand. Yarns may be made of natural fibers,
ready to crochet. (see p. 68). man-made fibers, a blend of the two, or even
non-standard materials.
Stitch marker A device used to mark locations on T-shirt yarn A unique, super bulky yarn produced
a work in progress (see p. 20). Often used in circular from stretchy jersey fabric as a by-product of Yarn bobbin Small plastic shape for holding
crochet to mark the start and end of a round. garment manufacturing. This type of yarn is yarn when doing intarsia work, where there are
becoming popular in crochet for making sturdy items many yarns in different colors (see p. 20).
Swift An umbrellalike tool used to hold a hank of (see p. 164). Because the material is recycled, every
yarn while it is being wound off into a ball. colorway is a limited edition.
Crochet terminology
The following terms are commonly used in crochet patterns. Many the UK equivalent is given in parentheses. Turn to the pages indicated for how
crochet terms are the same in the US and the UK, but where they differ, to work the various increases, decreases, or stitch techniques listed.
bobble: A cluster stitch generally made up of fasten off: Cut the yarn and draw it through the sc2tog (work 2 sc together): See p. 52.
double crochet, where several half-finished remaining loop on the hook to secure (see p. 25). (UK dc2tog)
stitches are worked into the same stitch from the foundation row: The first row of a piece of sc3tog (work 3 sc together): [Insert hook
row below and then joined at the top (see p. 79). crochet (the row worked onto the foundation in next st, yo and draw a loop through] 3 times,
cluster: A group of stitches worked into the same chain) is sometimes called the foundation row. yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook—2 sts
stitch, but only equaling one stitch in total. They are hdc2tog (work 2 hdc together): (Yo and insert decreased. (UK dc3tog).
usually decreased, or left half-finished, and then hook in next st, yo and draw a loop through) twice, shell: Several stitches worked into the same
finished at once to produce one stitch (see p. 79). yo and draw through all 5 loops on hook— stitch in the previous row or into the same chain
crab stitch: A reverse single crochet stitch. 1 st decreased. (UK htr2tog) space (see p. 78).
Instead of working from right to left, it is worked hdc3tog (work 3 hdc together): (Yo and skip a stitch: Do not work into the stitch, but
from left to right, creating a twisted edge. insert hook in next st, yo and draw a loop through) go on to the next stitch. (UK “miss” a stitch)
dc2tog (work 2 dc together): See p. 53. 3 times, yo and draw through all 7 loops on hook—
(UK tr2tog) 2 sts decreased. (UK htr3tog)
dc3tog (work 3 dc together): (Yo and insert popcorn: A bobble made with complete stitches,
hook in next st, yo and draw a loop through, yo generally double crochet, then drawn together at
and draw through first 2 loops on hook) 3 times, the top (see p. 79).
yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook—2 sts puff stitch: A bobble made with half doubles; also
decreased. (UK tr3tog) called a pineapple stitch.
312 Index
Index
A bangle, beaded wire 127
basic skills
colorful granny blanket
146–147
abbreviations 83 blocking 70 flower blanket 142–143
accessory patterns 66 counting chain stitches 25 lap blanket 144–145
acrylic yarns 13 counting stitches 43 blocking 70
adjustable ring 57, 132 darning in yarn 72 steam blocking 70
afghan squares 104 double crochet 42–43 wet blocking 70
see also granny squares double treble crochet 49 blocks lace 115
amigurumi crochet fastening off a length of chains 25 bloom 111
elephant and baby 266–269 fastening off slip stitches 25 blunt-ended needles 20
floppy-eared bunny 278–281 flat circles 56 bobbles 3, 79, 83
polar bear with scarf 274–277 foundation chains 24 bobble stripe 121
rag doll 270–273 foundation rings 26 simple bobble stitch 85
teddy bear 130–135 half double crochet 38–39 women’s beret 198–199
apple 111 holding the hook 22 bookmarks, filigree 178–179
arched mesh stitch 114 holding the yarn 22 borders
joining on new yarn 39 crosses border 111
B making a fringe 74
making a slipknot 23
diamonds border 110
zigzag border 110
baby patterns making a tassel 74 bracelet, chunky 30–31
baby blanket 148–151 motif shapes 56–57 broomstick lace crochet 19, 125
baby bonnet 190–191 seams 70–72 broomstick lace shawl 202–203
baby boy’s booties 218–219 shaping crochet 50–53 peacock eye crochet 125
baby girl’s booties 216–217 single crochet 32–33 buttons
baby’s crossover cardigan 232–235 slip stitch 26 button loops 36, 37, 89
see also toys stripes 39 round buttons 89
back post double 78 tensioning the yarn 23
backstitch seam 70
bags
treble crochet 48
baskets
C
cell phone cover 36–37 cat basket 174–175 cardigans and sweaters
change purses 306–307 hanging toy basket 166–167 baby’s crossover cardigan 232–235
child’s turtle backpack 302–305 round string container 126 child’s hoodie 240–243
clutch bag 300–301 structured baskets 164–165 cropped sweater 250–253
diamond granny bag 296–299 beaded crochet 86 striped sweater 236–239
everyday bag 294–295 beaded necklace 28–29 women’s textured cardigan 254–257
granny square bag 288–289 beaded wire bangle 127 care labels 75
straw beach bag 290–291 beanie hat 194–195 care of crochet 75
super-stretchy shopper 292–293 beg 83 moth control 75
tablet sleeve 308–309 bird 112 storing 75
ball bands 15 blanket stitch 87, 97 washing and drying 15, 75
balls of yarn 14 blankets cashmere yarns 12
banded net stitch 114 baby blanket 148–151 cat basket 174–175
Index 313
cell phone cover 36–37 child’s edged slippers 220–221 monochromatic designs 16
ch 83 child’s hat with earflaps 196–197 seasonal 17
chain fringe 90 child’s hat with ears 192–193 colorwork 118–121
chain loop mesh 108, 113 child’s mittens with string 212–213 carrying colors up side edge 39
chain stitch (embroidery) 87 chunky rug 186–187 changing colors 39, 57
chains circular pillow 64–65 charts 118
beaded necklace 28–29 crochet pot holders 60–61 intarsia 118, 119
chain loops 76, 108 desktop storage pots 162–163 jacquard 118
chain spaces 76 elephant and baby 266–269 stitch patterns 119–121
chunky bracelet 30–31 everyday bag 294–295 see also stripes
counting 25 flat circles 56 cones 14
fastening off 25 flower pin cushion 184–185 cont 83
fish and starfish garland 180–183 fruit bowl 176–177 cotton crochet
foundation chains 24 hanging toy basket 166–167 cotton crochet threads 12
shells and chains 85 lacy scarf 200–201 filigree bookmarks 178–179
turning chains 48, 49, 68, 69 ladies’ ankle socks 224–225 flower pin cushion 184–185
working into a chain space 77 men’s beanie hat 194–195 cotton yarns 12
change purses 306–307 men’s chunky socks 226–227 counting stitches 43
charts round stool cover 168–169 row counter 21
colorwork 118 rustic ottomans 170–171 crab stitch
filet charts 109 straw beach bag 290–291 child’s hoodie 240–243
chevrons striped sweater 236–239 lap blanket 144–145
chevron pillow 152–153 structured baskets 164–165 women’s beret 198–199
summer tunic dress 246–249 summer tunic dress 246–249 crochet bag 21
children’s patterns super-stretchy shopper 292–293 cross stitch (embroidery) 87
child’s edged slippers 220–221 teddy bear 130–135 crossed stitch 84
child’s hat with earflaps 196–197 tubes 100–101 crosses border 111
child’s hat with ears 192–193 tweed cowl 204–205
child’s hoodie 240–243
child’s mittens with string 212–213
women’s beret 198–199
close shells stitch 84
D
child’s poncho 230–231 colored close shells 121 darning in yarn 20
child’s turtle backpack 302–305 clusters 79, 83 dc 83
child’s wrist warmers 210–211 cluster and shell edging 93 dc2tog 83
fish and starfish garland 180–183 cluster and shell stitch 85 dc3tog 83
pretty headband 46–47 cluster-scallop edging 98–99 dec 83
striped sweater 236–239 colored cluster and shell stitch 120 decreases 52–53
summer tunic dress 246–249 clutch bag 300–301 double crochet decreases 53
see also toys cm 83 single crochet decreases 52
circles 56, 105 coaster set 58–59 step decreases 53
circles edging 95 colored tweed stitch 120 desktop storage pots 162–163
circular crochet colors 16–17 diamond edging 94
baby boy’s booties 218–219 black and white 16, 67 diamond granny bag 296–299
baby girl’s booties 216–217 color wheel 16 diamonds border 110
cat basket 174–175 complementary 16 dog 112
change purses 306–307 “cool” and “warm” colors 16–17 double crochet 42–43
314 Index
baby bonnet 190–191 pillar edging 92 flower hexagon 105

back post double 78 punched hole attachment 96–97 flower pin cushion 184–185
clutch bag 300–301 shell edging 92 flowers and circles 110
counting stitches 43 single crochet edging 88, 252 heptagon flower 106
decreases 53 step edging 90 long loop flower 107
front post double 78 triple picot edging 93, 98–99 pentagon flower 107
increases 50 twirl fringe 92 short loop flower 106
ladies’ ankle socks 224–225 working into woven fabrics 96–97 simple leaf 107
parts of stitches 76 elephant and baby 266–269 square petal flower 107
pretty headband 46–47 embellishments 86–95 foll 83
raised double crochet 214 beaded crochet 86 foundation chains 24
set of coasters 58–59 edgings see edgings foundation rings 26
stitch height 49, 68 embroidery 87 fringes 74
stitch pattern instructions 68, 69 embroidery 87 chain fringe 90
symbol 69 blanket stitch 87, 97 self-fringing scarf 40–41
textured pillow 44–45 chain stitch 87 twirl fringe 92
tube with turns 101 cross stitch 87 front post double 78
tube without turns 101 fruit bowl 176–177
working into back loop of 77
F
double loop edging 91
double scallop edging 94 fabric strips 13
G
double treble crochet 49 see also rag-strip crochet g 83
stitch height 49, 68 fans stitch 115 garment patterns 67
dtr 83 fastening off beginners 67
chain stitch 25 garment sizes 67
E slip stitch 25
felted crochet 136–137
modifying 67
tips 67
edge-to-edge seam 71 test swatches 136, 137 gauge 14
edgings 90–97 yarns 136 measuring 67
attaching 87 filet crochet 109–112 swatches 67
blanket stitch attachment 97 filet blocks 109 gloves
bold scallop edging 93 filet charts 109 child’s mittens with string 212–213
chain fringe 90 filet mesh 109 child’s wrist warmers 210–211
circles edging 95 stitch patterns 110–112 ladies’ wrist warmers 214–215
cluster and shell edging 93 filigree bookmarks 178–179 grand eyelet edging 91
cluster-scallop edging 98–99 fine-weigh cotton yarns 12 granny squares 102–103
crocheting directly onto edge 88 finishing details 88–93 baby blanket 148–151
diamond edging 94 see also buttons; edgings; child’s poncho 230–231
double loop edging 91 embellishments colorful granny blanket 146–147
double scallop edging 94 fish and starfish garland 180–183 diamond granny bag 296–299
grand eyelet edging 91 flat circles 56 granny pillow 154–155
long loop edging 94 floppy-eared bunny 278–281 granny square bag 288–289
multiple-stitch edging 95 flowers 106–107 join-as-you-go method 103
petal edging 95 flower blanket 142–143 joining medallions (motifs) 103
picot scallop edging 91 flower garland 80–81 see also hexagons; pentagons
Index 315
H fruit bowl 176–177

rustic ottomans 170–171
lace crochet 108
chain loop mesh 108
half double crochet 38–39 see also blankets; pillows; picot net stitch 108
baby’s crossover cardigan 232–235 storage projects shell mesh scarf 116–117
child’s turtle backpack 302–305 hooks 18–19 shell mesh stitch 108, 114
felting 137 broomstick 19 stitch patterns 113–115
ladies’ soft slippers 222–223 conversion chart 19 ultra-fine lace-weight yarn 14
linked half double 226 handles 18 see also openwork
men’s chunky scarf 206–207 holding 22 lace hooks 19
self-fringing scarf 40–41 jumbo hooks 19 lap blanket 144–145
stitch height 49, 68 lace hooks 19 leaf 107
stitch pattern instructions 68, metal hooks 18, 19 left-handed crocheters 68, 109
69 plastic hooks 19 long loop edging 94
straw beach bag 290–291 sizes 14, 18, 67 long loop flower 107
summer tunic dress 246–249 Tunisian hooks 19 loop edgings
symbol 69 wooden hooks 19 double loop edging 91
tablet sleeve 308–309 Hooplayarn 170 long loop edging 94
hanks 14 loop stitch 283
hats
I
baby bonnet 190–191
child’s hat with earflaps in 83
M
196–197 inc 83 m 83
child’s hat with ears 192–193 increases 50–51 mattress stitch 71
men’s beanie hat 194–195 double crochet increases 50 men’s patterns
women’s beret 198–199 single crochet increases 50 men’s beanie hat 194–195
hdc 83 step increase 51 men’s chunky scarf 206–207
hdc2tog 83 intarsia 118, 119 men’s chunky socks 226–227
hdc3tog 83 intarsia pillow 122–123 merino wool 12
headbands, pretty 46–47 metal hooks 18, 19
heart 112
hemp yarns 292
J mm 83
mohair yarns 13, 136
heptagon flower 106 jacquard 118 moth control 75
hexagons jewelry motifs (medallions) 56–57, 102–106
child’s turtle backpack 302–305 beaded necklace 28–29 circles 56, 105
flower hexagon 105 beaded wire bangle 127 flower hexagon 105
giant play ball 264–265 chunky bracelet 30–31 flower patterns 106–107
simple hexagon 105 joining on new yarn 39 joining on new color 57
holding the hook 22 jumbo hooks 19 making a simple adjustable
knife position 22 jungle finger puppets 282–285 ring 57
pencil position 22 plain squares 104
home and gifts
chunky rug 186–187
L simple hexagon 105
traditional afghan square 104
filigree bookmarks 178–179 labels triangles 106
fish and starfish garland 180–183 care labels 75 see also granny squares
flower pin cushion 184–185 yarn labels 15 multiple-stitch edging 95
316 Index
N pillows
chevron pillow 152–153
crochet-edged pillows 98–99
crochet pot holders 61
natural and synthetic circular pillow 64–65 cropped sweater 250–253
mixes 13 crochet-edged pillows 98–99 diamond granny bag 296–299
necklace, beaded 28–29 granny pillow 154–155 desktop storage pots 162–163
needles, blunt-ended 20 intarsia pillow 122–123 everyday bag 294–295
novelty yarns 14 owl pillow 156–159 filigree bookmarks 178–179
textured pillow 44–45 fish and starfish garland 180–183
O pin cushion 20
pins 20
floppy-eared bunny 278–281
flower blanket 142–143
open shell stitch 82, 113 plarn makeup bag 129 flower garland 80–81
openwork 108–113 plastic hooks 19 flower pin cushion 184–185
broomstick lace shawl 202–203 plastic-strip crochet 13, 129 fruit bowl 176–177
cropped sweater 250–253 plarn makeup bag 129 giant play ball 264–265
filet crochet 109–112 preparing plarn strips 129 granny pillow 154–155
lace techniques 108 plies 14 granny square bag 288–289
shell mesh scarf 116–117 polar bear with scarf 274–277 hanging toy basket 166–167
stitch patterns 113–115 popcorns 79, 83 intarsia pillow 122–123
women’s textured cardigan pot holders 60–61 jungle finger puppets 282–285
254–257 projects lacy scarf 200–201
ottomans, rustic 170–171 animal rattles 260–263 ladies’ ankle socks 224–225
overcast seam 70 baby blanket 148–151 ladies’ soft slippers 222–223
owl pillow 156–159 baby bonnet 190–191 ladies’ textured cardigan 254–257
oz 83 baby boy’s booties 218–219 ladies’ wrist warmers 214–215
baby girl’s booties 216–217 lap blanket 144–145
P baby’s crossover cardigan 232–235

beaded necklace 28–29
men’s chunky scarf 206–207
men’s chunky socks 226–227
party bunting 54–55 broomstick lace shawl 202–203 mother elephant and baby 266–269
patterns, following 66–67 cat basket 174–175 owl pillow 156–159
accessory patterns 66 cell phone cover 36–37 party bunting 54–55
garment patterns 67 change purses 306–307 plarn makeup bag 129
measuring gauge 67 chevron pillow 152–153 polar bear with scarf 274–277
shaping 50–53 child’s edged slippers 220–221 pretty headbands 46–47
see also stitch patterns child’s hat with earflaps 196–197 rag doll 270–273
patt(s) 83 child’s hat with ears 192–193 rag-strip bag 128
peacock eye crochet 125 child’s hoodie 240–243 round string container 126
pentagons child’s mittens with string 212–213 rustic ottomans 170–171
giant play ball 264–265 child’s poncho 230–231 self-fringing scarf 40–41
pentagon flower 107 child’s turtle backpack 302–305 shell mesh scarf 116–117
petal edging 95 child’s wrist warmers 210–211 straw beach bag 290–291
picot chunky bracelet 30–31 striped washcloths 34–35
picot scallop edging 91 circular pillow 64–65 striped sweater 236–239
triple picot edging 93, 98–99 clutch bag 300–301 structured baskets 164–165
picot net stitch 108, 113 coaster set 58–59 summer tunic dress 246–249
pillar edging 92 colorful granny blanket 146–147 super-stretchy shopper 292–293
Index 317
tablet sleeve 308–309 seams 70–72 elephant and baby 266–269

teddy bear 130–135 backstitch seam 70 felting 137
tweed cowl 204–205 double-crochet seam 103 hanging toy basket 166–167
women’s beret 198–199 edge-to-edge seam 71 increases 50
puff stitch 311 slip stitch seam 72, 103 intarsia pillow 122–123
ladies’ wrist warmers 214–215 whipstitch (overcast) seam 70 ladies’ ankle socks 224–225
seasonal colors 17 lap blanket 144–145
Q seed stitch see tweed stitch

shaping 50–53
men’s beanie hat 194–195
men’s chunky socks 226–227
qtr 83 decreases 52–53 parts of stitches 76
increases 50–51 party bunting 54–55
R shawls
broomstick lace shawl 202–203
rag doll 270–273
raised single crochet 194
rag doll 270–273 child’s poncho 230–231 shell mesh scarf 116–117
rag-strip crochet 13, 128 shell edging single-crochet seam 103
crocheting two circles for a bag cluster and shell edging 93 spiral tube 100
128 half double shells 210 stitch height 49, 68
preparing fabric strips 128 scalloped pot holder 60–61 stitch pattern instructions 68
rem 83 simple shell edging 92 striped washcloths 34–35
rep 83 shell mesh scarf 116–117 striped sweater 236–239
rib stitch 84 shells 78, 83 super-stretchy shopper 292–293
men’s chunky socks 226–227 close shells stitch 84 symbol 68
row counter 21 cluster and shell stitch 85 working into back loop of 77
RS 83 colored close shells stitch 121 working into front loop of 77
rug, chunky 186–187 colored cluster and shell stitch 120 skeins 14
open shell stitch 82, 113 slipknot 23
S shell mesh stitch 108, 114

shells and chains 85
slip stitch
fastening off 25
sc 83 short loop flower 106 forming a foundation ring 26
sc2tog 83 simple bobble stitch 85 working as a fabric 26
sc3tog 83 simple crossed stitch 84 slip stitch seam 72, 103
scallop edgings simple hexagon 105 slippers
bold scallop edging 93 single crochet 32–33 baby boy’s booties 218–219
cluster-scallop edging 98–99 animal rattles 260–263 baby girl’s booties 216–217
double scallop edging 94 baby boy’s booties 218–219 child’s edged slippers 220–221
picot scallop edging 91 beaded single crochet 86 ladies’ soft slippers 222–223
scalloped pot holder 60–61 cat basket 174–175 socks
scarves change purses 306–307 ladies’ ankle socks 224–225
lacy scarf 200–201 child’s edged slippers 220–221 men’s chunky socks 226–227
men’s chunky scarf 206–207 child’s mittens with string 212–213 sp 83
self-fringing scarf 40–41 child’s wrist warmers 210–211 spike stitch
shell mesh scarf 116–117 circular pillow 64–65 spike stitch stripes 120
tweed cowl 204–205 counting stitches 43 triangles spike stitch 121
scissors 21 decreases 52 square petal flower 107
sculptural textures 78–79 edging 88, 252 squares
318 Index
plain squares 104 desktop storage pots 162–163 simple textures 76–77,
traditional afghan square fruit bowl 176–177 84–85
104 hanging toy basket 166–167 TFL 83
see also granny squares round string container 126 tiara lace 115
ss 83 structured baskets 164–165 tog 83
steam blocking 70 storing crochet 75 tools and equipment 18–21
step decreases 53 straw beach bag 290–291 toys
beginning of row 53 string crochet 13, 126 animal rattles 260–263
end of row 53 round string container 126 elephant and baby 266–269
step edging 90 stripes 39 floppy-eared bunny 278–281
step increases 51 baby bonnet 190–191 giant play ball 264–265
beginning of row 51 bobble stripe 121 hanging toy basket 166–167
end of row 51 carrying colors up side edge jungle finger puppets 282–285
stitch markers 20, 177 39 owl pillow 156–159
stitch patterns changing colors 39 polar bear with scarf 274–277
abbreviations 83 child’s wrist warmers 210–211 rag doll 270–273
colorwork 119–121 floppy-eared bunny 278–281 safety 130, 275
diagrams 82 men’s beanie hat 194–195 stuffing 131
filet charts 109 men’s chunky socks 226–227 teddy bear 130–135
following 82–83 owl pillow 156–159 treble crochet 48
openwork 113–115 spike stitch stripes 120 stitch height 49, 68
sample pattern 82 striped pot holder 60–61 stitch pattern instructions
simple textures 84–85 striped washcloths 34–35 68, 69
stitch symbols 68–69, 82, 83 striped sweater 236–239 symbol 69
terminology 83, 311 st(s) 83 tr 83
written instructions 82 symbols triangles 106
stitch techniques stitch diagrams 82 party bunting 54–55
chain loops 76, 108 stitch symbols 68–69, 82, 83 triangles spike stitch 121
chain spaces 76 yarns 15 triple picot edging 93, 98–99
sculptural textures 78–79 synthetic yarns 13 tubes
simple textures 76–77 double crochet tube with turns
working into a chain space 77
working into spaces between
T 101
double crochet tube without turns
stitches 77 T-shirt yarn 174 101
working into the back loop of tablet sleeve 308–309 single crochet spiral tube 100
stitches 77 tape measure 21 starting a tube 100
working into the front loop of tassels 74 Tunisian crochet 124
stitches 77 men’s chunky scarf owl pillow 156–159
stitches 206–207 Tunisian hooks 19
counting 21, 43 TBL 83 turning chains 48, 49, 68, 69
parts of stitches 76 teddy bear 130–135 tweed stitch 77
stitch heights 49, 68 tensioning the yarn 23 colored tweed stitch 120
symbols 68–69, 82, 83 terminology 83, 311 lap blanket 144–145
stool cover 168–169 textures tweed cowl 204–205
storage projects sculptural textures 78–79 twirl fringe 92
Index 319
U Y natural and synthetic mixes 13

novelty yarns 14
ultra-fine lace-weight yarn 14 yarn 12, 136 plastic strips 13
darning in 72 plies 14
holding 22 skeins 14
W joining on new yarn 39 string 13
warm/cool colors 16–17 tensioning 23 symbols 15
washcloths, striped 34–35 yarn bobbins 20 synthetic 13
washing and drying crochet 15, 75 yarn embellishments thickness 14
wet blocking 70 fringes 74 ultra-fine lace-weight 14
whipstitch 70 tassels 74 unusual 13, 126–129
wire crochet 13 yarn needles 20 weights 14
beaded wire bangle 127 yarns 12–17 wire 13
women’s patterns acrylic 13 wool 12, 136
ladies’ ankle socks 224–225 balls 14 yd 83
ladies’ soft slippers 222–223 blends 12, 13 yo 83
ladies’ textured cardigan 254–257 colors 16–17
ladies’ wrist warmers 214–215
women’s beret 198–199
cones 14
cotton 12
Z
wooden hooks 19 cotton crochet threads 12 zigzag border 110
wool yarns 12, 136 dye lot numbers 15, 67 zigzag stitch 119
merino wool 12 fabric strips 13 chevron pillow 152–153
organic wool 12 fibers 12–13
wrist warmers for felted crochet 136
child’s wrist warmers 210–211 hanks 14
ladies’ wrist warmers 214–215 labels 15
WS 83 merino 12
320 Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people for their p. 168, Rustic ottomans p. 170, Chunky rug p. 186, Child’s wrist warmers p. 210,
hard work and contributions toward Crochet: Child’s mittens with string p. 212, Child’s edged slippers p. 220, Ladies’ soft
slippers p. 222, Granny square bag p. 288; Emma Varnam: Women’s beret p.
Crochet designers 198, Baby rattles p. 260; Liz Ward: Teddy bear p. 132, Rag doll p. 270, Polar bear
Lesley Arnold-Hopkins: Child’s hat with earflaps p. 196, Tweed cowl p. 204, with scarf p. 274, Floppy-eared bunny p. 278, Jungle finger puppets p. 282, Child’s
Child’s hoodie p. 240; Vicki Brown: Men’s beanie hat p. 194, Men’s chunky scarf turtle backpack p. 302.
p. 206, Ladies’ ankle socks p. 224, Men’s chunky socks p. 226, Striped sweater
p. 236, Cropped sweater p. 250, Summer tunic dress p. 246; Ali Campbell: Baby Pattern checker Carol Ibbetson
blanket p. 148, Fish and starfish garland p. 180; May Corfield: Desktop storage Proofreaders Angela Baynham, Erica Sanders-Foege
pots p. 162, Cat basket p. 174; Simone Francis: Intarsia pillow p. 122, Ladies’ Indexer Marie Lorimer
textured cardigan p. 254; Diamond granny bag p. 296, Melanie Galloway: Straw Design assistance Elaine Hewson, Hannah Moore, and Navidita Thapa
beach bag p. 290, Super-stretchy shopper p. 292, Everyday bag p. 294, Clutch Editorial assistance Christine Stroyan
bag p. 300; Shelley Gould: Fabric pillows p. 98; Helen Jordan: Broomstick lace Photography assistant Julie Stewart
shawl p. 202; Claire Montgomerie: Beaded necklace p. 28, Chunky bracelet Props Backgrounds Prop Hire
p. 30, Cell phone cover p. 36, Pretty headbands p. 46, Party bunting p. 54, Circular Location for photography 1st Option
pillow p. 64, Flower garland p. 80, Crochet-edged pillows p. 98, Flower blanket Models Estelle Abberley, Georgia Abberley, Celia Arn, Liz Boyd, Joshua Caulfield,
p. 142, Lap blanket p. 144, Colorful granny blanket p. 146, Chevron pillow p. 152, Maria Clancy, Clare Cross, Maria Elston, Marco Elston, Lucas Goldstein, Saskia
Structured baskets p. 164, Fruit bowl p. 176, Filigree bookmarks p. 178, Flower Janssen, Martha Jenkinson, Bodhi Nair, Tulsi Nair, Clara Proctor, Martha Rhodes,
pin cushion p. 184, Baby bonnet p. 190, Child’s hat with ears p. 192, Lacy scarf Julie Stewart, Eden White, Mia White, and Oscar the cat
p. 200, Ladies’ wrist warmers p. 214, Giant play ball p. 264, Change purses p. 306;
Margaret O’Mara: Owl pillow p. 156, Baby’s crossover cardigan p. 230, Child’s The following yarn manufacturers and distributors for supplying
poncho p. 234; Wendy Rainthorpe: Shell mesh scarf p. 116, Mother elephant yarn for some projects by:
and baby p. 266, Tablet sleeve p. 308; Irene Strange: Baby girl’s booties p. 216, Coats Craft UK, DMC Creative World, Rico Design, Artesano Ltd., Designer
Baby boy’s booties p. 218; Tracey Todhunter: Striped washcloths p. 34, Yarns Ltd., King Cole Ltd, Sirdar Spinning Ltd, Texere Yarns Ltd, Thomas B.
self-fringing scarf p. 40, Textured pillow p. 44, Coaster set p. 58, Pot holders Ramsden & Co.
p. 60, Granny pillow p. 154, Hanging toy basket p. 166, Round stool cover
About the consultant

Claire Montgomerie is a textiles designer who specializes in crochet and
knitting, constructing fabrics, garments, creatures, and accessories that are
fun, quirky, and modern. Her main goal is to reinvent the products of ancient
and traditional needlecraft processes, while retaining all their intricacies and
comforting charm. Claire has written many crochet and knitting books and
also edits the UK craft magazine, Inside Crochet.

Crochet The Complete Step by Step Guide

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What is the book about?

What is the book about?

What are some of the projects included in the book?

What are some of the projects included in the book?

Crochet

The complete step-by-step guide

First American Edition, 2014

Printed and bound in China by South China Printing Co. Ltd

Discover more at www.dk.com/crafts

A note about yarn and hooks

When making items such as garments, or other projects for which

A note about crocheted toys

Extend your skills

Slipper/sock sizes Sole length (approx)

Merino wool Wool

Acrylic Natural and synthetic mixes

Standard yarn-weight system

use a system of symbols

These include descriptions

520 313 CONDITION IN

Machine-wash cold Machine-wash cold, Hand-wash cold Hand-wash warm

Do not tumble-dry Do not iron Iron on Iron on

Choosing yarn colors

Monochromatic designs: These use different versions of the same color. So a

Hooks and other equipment

Standard metal hook

Alternative hook handles

Although the middle range of hook

Metal hooks 3.25mm D/3

Jumbo hooks 5mm H/8 6

Holding the hook

Holding the yarn

Left-handed crocheters thread the Left-handed crocheters thread the

1 To make the first loop (called the slipknot) on

Make sure loop

Ball end of yarn

3 This forms a loop on the hook and a loose, open

Tensioning your yarn

Chain stitches (Abbreviation = ch )

Making a foundation chain

The back of the foundation

Counting chain stitches

Fastening oﬀ chains and slip stitches

Fastening oﬀ a length of chains Fastening oﬀ slip stitches

2 Cut the yarn, pass

Slip stitch (Abbreviation = ss )

Working slip stitch as a fabric

1 Make a foundation chain of the required length.

Using slip stitches to form a foundation ring

NOTIONS Yarn needle

GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential

2 Thread the bead onto the yarn and make a chain

>> This necklace is made with DMC Petra

DIFFICULTY LEVEL Easy

CROCHET HOOK E/4 US (3.5mm) hook

NOTIONS Yarn needle

GAUGE Exact gauge is not essential

1 When the chain is the desired length, make a

Single crochet (Abbreviation = sc)