The Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide

US/CAN $39.
95 HOME / SUSTAINABLE BUILDING
the rocket mass heater
the
BUILDER’S GUIDE
rocket mass heater

COMPLETE STEP-BY-STEP CONSTRUCTION, MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
…this book is an essential addition to every homesteader’s and builder’s library.
— Toby Hemenway, author, Gaia’s Garden and The Permaculture City
The second, more comprehensive work on revolutionary wood heating; thorough, technically advanced,
comprehensive, well thought-out by the experienced masters of rocket stoves.
rocket
— Ianto Evans, director and founder, Cob Cottage Company, inventor of Rocket Mass Heaters and Lorena Stoves
HEATING WITH WOOD is often considered a natural and economical alternative to electricity or fossil
fuels. However, even with a fairly new and efficient woodstove, many cords of wood are required for burning
over the course of a single winter, and incomplete combustion can contribute to poor air quality.
t he
mass
A rocket mass heater is an earthen masonry heating system which provides clean, safe and efficient warmth
for your home, all while using 70-90% less fuel than a traditional woodstove. These unique and beautiful
installations provide luxurious comfort year-round. In cold weather a few hours of clean, hot burning can
provide 20 or more hours of steady warmth, while the unit’s large thermal mass acts as a heat sink, cooling
heater
your home on sizzling summer days. Packed with hard-to-find information, The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s
Guide includes:
• Comprehensive design, construction, and installation instructions combined with
detailed maintenance and troubleshooting advice
• Brick-by-brick layouts, diagrams, and architectural plans augmented with detailed
parts drawings and photographs for clarity
• Relevant and up-to-date code information and standards to help you navigate the
GUIDE
BUILDER’S
approval process with local building departments.
Earthen masonry heating systems are well-suited for natural and conventional builders alike. A super-efficient,
BUILDER’S GUIDE
wood-burning, rocket mass heater can help you dramatically reduce your energy costs while enhancing the COMPLETE STEP-BY-STEP CONSTRUCTION,
beauty, value, and comfort of your home.
MAINTENANCE AND TROUBLESHOOTING
…represents more than ten years of collaboration and lessons learned from hands-on building and
experimentation. The result is a frank, practical and detailed discussion of design and construction,
pros and cons, and helpful anecdotal stories. While passionate about empowering the owner-builder,
the authors also address code compliance and stress fire safety.
— Catherine Wanek, author, The New Strawbale Home and The Hybrid House, co-author, The Art of Natural Building
Distills the best, most tried-and-true design for efficient, low-cost, low-effort, carbon-neutral, regenerative
Erica & Ernie Wisner

home heating. It will be hard to improve upon the wisdom of this book.
— Albert Bates, author, The Biochar Solution
Erica and Ernie Wisner have built over 700 super-efficient, clean-burning rocket stoves and masonry
heaters. They are dedicated to the search for sustainable solutions and the hands-on teaching of creative,
ecological, and practical skills.
Erica Wisner
www.newsociety.com & Ernie Wisner
Praise for
The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide
Finally — a comprehensive book about rocket mass heaters! This should put an
end to the freak shows of flaming death showing up on YouTube mislabeled as rocket
mass heaters. And put an end to getting the same questions asked over and over again.
We can start every answer with: “Have you read The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide?”
— Paul Wheaton, founder of Permies.com online community
Eagerly awaited by homesteaders both urban and rural, appropriate tech folks,
and do-it-yourselfers of all stripes, The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide is a
comprehensive, well-researched, and clearly illustrated manual on one of the most
exciting home-heating concepts to come along in decades. The book is firmly
grounded in the authors’ many years of experience, will save every builder vast
amounts of toil and frustration, and paves the way to a home-heating system that
is clean burning, marvelously fuel efficient, and a pleasure to live with.
Rich in detail without being overwhelming, this book is an essential
addition to every homesteader’s and builder’s library.
— Toby Hemenway, author, Gaia’s Garden and The Permaculture City
An advanced companion to Rocket Mass Heaters: Superefficient Wood Stoves

You can Build and Snuggle Up To. The second, more comprehensive work on
revolutionary wood heating; thorough, technically advanced, comprehensive,
well thought-out by the experienced masters of rocket stoves.
— Ianto Evans, director and founder, Cob Cottage Company,
inventor of Rocket Mass Heaters and Lorena Stoves
Drawing on the centuries-old tradition of masonry stoves and heaters,

the “rocket” mass heater offers a modern, fuel-efficient way to heat a home with wood.
This Guide represents more than ten years of collaboration and lessons learned from
hands-on building and experimentation. The result is a frank, practical and detailed
discussion of design and construction, pros and cons, and helpful anecdotal stories.
While passionate about empowering the owner-builder, the authors
also address code compliance and stress fire safety.
— Catherine Wanek, author/photographer, The New Strawbale Home and The Hybrid House,
and co-author, The Art of Natural Building
In The Rocket Mass Heater Guide, Erica and Ernie Wisner have
distilled the best, most tried-and-true design for efficient, low-cost, low-effort,
carbon-neutral, regenerative home heating. Undoubtedly people will continue
to experiment, but it will be hard to improve upon the wisdom of
this book — what works, what doesn’t and why.
— Albert Bates, author, The Biochar Solution
You will be happy to own this book for years and years to come!
There are life-changing secrets inside of Erica and Ernie Wisner’s most remarkable
book, ways of understanding how to live better, more simply, and more beautifully
while also being more snuggly and cozy that you ever thought possible!
— Mark Lakeman, co-founder, City Repair and design director, communitecture
Over the years, a handful of dedicated practitioners and authors have helped
the natural building movement advance their craft based on solid engineering
and experimentation. The authors are among that elite and vital group, and
this book is a must-read for anyone who longs for practical, detailed
knowledge on rocket mass stoves based on extensive experience.
— Dan Chiras, Ph.D., director, The Evergreen Institute and author,
The Natural House and The Homeowner’s Guide to Renewable Energy
Biomass energy is sensible when used super-efficiently and locally — which

is the point of this book. Folks who live in cooler climates can benefit
enormously from this simple, do-it-yourself technology.
— Richard Heinberg, Senior Fellow, Post Carbon Institute
The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide provides a remarkable amount of detail for
designing, building and using these elegant and efficient space heaters. In a world of
ever-diminishing resources, growing populations and changing climates, safe, efficient
and low-cost solutions to space-heating without fossil fuels are vitally needed. I have long
planned to build a high mass rocket stove in my bioshelter/ greenhouse to replace our
woodstove. After reading this book, I feel inspired and feel confident to do it.
— Darrell E. Frey, author, Bioshelter Market Garden: A Permaculture Farm
Copyright © 2016 by Erica Wisner and Ernie Wisner.
All rights reserved.
Cover design by Diane McIntosh.
All photos and diagrams are by the authors unless otherwise noted. (See also image captions.) Cover diagrams,
top and bottom row: by author. Center left: Greenhouse heater firebox, photo by owner; see color in-
sert. Center right: Mediterranean heater with ceramic bangles, photo by Adi Segal — see Chapter 3.
Interior: Flames © AdobeStock_60101445; White brick © AdobeStock_69829337; Smoke background ©
AdobeStock_72849210; Adobe mud © AdobeStock_49425959
Printed in Canada. First printing April 2016.
This book is intended to be educational and informative. It is not intended to serve as a guide. The author and
publisher disclaim all responsibility for any liability, loss or risk that may be associated with the application of
any of the contents of this book.
Paperback ISBN: 0-978-86571-823-4

eISBN: 978-1-55092-616-3
Inquiries regarding requests to reprint all or part of The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide should be addressed
to New Society Publishers at the address below. To order directly from the publishers, please call toll-free (North
America) 1-800-567-6772, or order online at www.newsociety.com
Any other inquiries can be directed by mail to:
New Society Publishers
P.O. Box 189, Gabriola Island, BC V0R 1X0, Canada
(250) 247-9737
New Society Publishers’ mission is to publish books that contribute in fundamental ways to building an ecolog-
ically sustainable and just society, and to do so with the least possible impact on the environment, in a manner
that models this vision. We are committed to doing this not just through education, but through action. The
interior pages of our bound books are printed on Forest Stewardship Council®-registered acid-free paper that
is 100% post-consumer recycled (100% old growth forest-free), processed chlorine-free, and printed with
vegetable-based, low-VOC inks, with covers produced using FSC®-registered stock. New Society also works to
reduce its carbon footprint, and purchases carbon offsets based on an annual audit to ensure a carbon neutral
footprint. For further information, or to browse our full list of books and purchase securely, visit our website at:
www.newsociety.com
Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication
Wisner, Erica, 1977-, author
The rocket mass heater builder’s guide : complete step-by-step construction, maintenance and trouble-
shooting / Erica Wisner & Ernie Wisner.
Includes index.
Issued in print and electronic formats.
ISBN 978-0-86571-823-4 (paperback).--ISBN 978-1-55092-616-3 (ebook)
1. Rocket mass heaters. 2. Rocket mass heaters--Design and construction. 3. Rocket mass heaters--
Maintenance and repair. I. Wisner, Ernie, 1968-, author II. Title.
TH7438.W58 2016 697’.1 C2016-900792-8
C2016-900793-6
Contents
Acknowledgments and Background ............................................... vii

Chapter 1: Rocket Mass Heater Overview
and Terms ............................................... 1
Chapter 2: General Design Considerations ............................................... 25
Chapter 3: Design Examples ............................................... 39
Chapter 4: Step-by-Step Construction Example ............................................... 59
Chapter 5: Operation and Maintenance ............................................... 101
Chapter 6: Rules and Codes ............................................... 137
FAQs ............................................... 163
Appendix 1: Earthen Building ............................................... 179
Appendix 2: Rocket Mass Heater Building Code
(Portland, Oregon) ............................................... 199
Appendix 3: Special Cases ............................................... 205
Appendix 4: Home Heating Design Considerations ............................................... 225
Appendix 5: Wood Heat Considerations ............................................... 241
Appendix 6: Supplemental Practice Activities ............................................... 257
Index ............................................... 269
About the Authors ............................................... 277
v
Acknowledgments and Background
H eating and cooling represents 30%

to 60% of most household energy
budgets. Rocket mass heaters offer a sub-
clean-burning heat, using locally available
and nontoxic materials; and we continue to
encourage owners to integrate these heaters
stantial savings on both heating and cooling into smart, efficient, compact, passive solar
in many climates. We hope that this book cottage designs.
will prove useful as a small but practical Ernie Wisner joined this field as part of
step in addressing many key problems of our a dirty-hands research team under Ianto’s
time: uncertain economies, deforestation and banner at the Cob Cottage Company.
small fuels accumulation in our New World Working in the US Navy, commercial fish-
landscapes, the need for alternative energy eries, geophysical exploration, fire-fighting,
and for more energy-efficient ways of meet- and hazardous materials disposal, he saw and
ing everyday needs, preserving clean air and did some of the dirty jobs required by many
water, and ultimately, making life on Earth common industries. He started looking for a
more comfortable and pleasant for both hu- field of work that wasn’t self-defeating: some-
manity and the vast web of all life. Even if thing sustainable. Cob Cottage Company
we can’t know all that, we hope this book offered a dirt-cheap way to build perma-
will at least give the reader hope for a more nent, healthy, and attractive dwellings, and
comfortable, safer, more affordable, and less a chance to practice appropriate/improvised
toilsome future. technology for emergency preparedness and
Rocket mass heaters would not exist disaster relief.
without the pioneering work of Ianto Evans, During intensive research session in 2004–
documented in the Evans/Jackson book 2006, Ianto, Ernie, and others built hundreds
Rocket Mass Heaters, now in its third edi- of test systems in an effort to diagnose re-
tion. On those foundations we continue ported problems. That work contributed to
to develop ecologically-sound, efficient, the first Evans/Jackson book collaboration,
vii
viii The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide
and to an ongoing grassroots development have learned a great deal from troubleshoot-
community including online forums hosted ing other builders’ work as well as our own.
at proboards.com and permies.com. We are grateful to the friends, family, and
Ernie wanted to document all the ex- colleagues who have supported us through
perimental data for inclusion in the Evans/ the many years’ process of developing and
Jackson book, but the team felt that too much documenting this information.
technical information would overwhelm the We would not have been able to do this
average reader. They acknowledged the value without the support of friends, family, and
of a technical manual, however, perhaps as collaborators — particularly those who
a separate publication. Erica joined the ef- helped with contributions and work opportu-
forts in 2006/7, with experience in writing, nities during the time immediately following
instructional illustration, and hands-on Ernie’s 2006 injury, and who helped make
teaching. For the past ten years Ernie and our work known through YouTube, per-
Erica have been teaching workshops togeth- mies.com, rocketstoves.com, richsoil.com,
er, helping owner-builders to learn and build and magazines such as Home Power maga-
prototypes, and refining the design of these zine, Mother Earth News, and Permaculture
heaters for reliable performance in conven- magazine.
tional buildings. Some colleagues and contributors are
This book, then, is a hybrid of Erica’s noted with their projects in Chapter 3 and
desire to present information in a step-by- Appendix 3, but many others have offered
step instructional manner, and Ernie’s desire encouragement and insightful questions.
to share in-depth technical information. Paul Wheaton and Kirk Mobert deserve our
It offers more specifics and depth than the thanks as custodians of the permies.com and
Evans/Jackson book, helping the reader proboards.com forums.
avoid known problems, and clarifying our Some noteworthy contributions to the
favorite methods for the trickier parts of field of clean heat include David Lyle’s
construction, operation, and maintenance. The Book of Masonry Stoves; Jim Buckley
It is a privilege to be alive at this time of Buckley Rumford Fireplaces and www.
when grassroots creative design collabora- rumford.com, and Eric Moshier of Solid
tions can be undertaken with partners around Rock Masonry, amazing masons who have
the world. Builders on all seven continents been gracious enough to correspond about
have contributed examples, questions, prob- foundation work and chimney codes. The
lems, and discoveries to the general store of curators of the online Sweep’s Library have ex-
knowledge in this space. While we admit to panded their shop website with a tremendous
some frustration when new builders repli- amount of down-to-earth public informa-
cate past problems instead of building on tion at www.chimneysweeponline.com, and
past success, the sheer quantity of examples a similar public service is provided by the good
available online helps prove out certain the- folks at woodheat.org, engineeringtoolbox.
ories and rules of thumb much faster than com, builditsolar.com, and the HUD Heating
could be done by any one team alone. We Degree Days Index.
Acknowledgments and Background ix
Thank you in general to those who’ve sup- projects became unfortunate examples of
ported and documented the development of what not to do, largely demolished now.
these heaters: Cob Cottage Company (www. We hope that the chimney-related failures
cobcottage.com); Paul Wheaton (www.rich in particular may be more easily understood
soil.com) and the Permies.com forums com- and remedied with the information in these
munity; Calen Kennett (www.villagevideo. pages.
org); Bart Glumineau (www.studiomelies. Colleagues who helped develop the
com); Olivier Asselin (www.possiblemedia. Portland, OR, rocket mass heater code (Ap
org); Adi Segal (www.adisegal.com); Priscilla pendix 2) include Joshua Klyber, Bernhard
Smith; Arthur Held; Bryce Phelps; Eric Masterson, and the City of Portland’s Alter-
Moshier (www.solidrockmasonry.com); Lasse native Technologies Advisory Committee.
Holmes; Max Edleson (www.FireSpeaking. For useful editorial and proofreading
com); Flemming Abrahamsson (www.fornyet comments, we wish to thank Stephen, Anna,
energi.dk); Peter van den Berg and Kirk Rebecca, Catharine, Leslie, Lindsay, Rob,
Mobert (donkey32.proboards.com); Leslie and all those who field-tested draft versions
Jackson (www.rocketstoves.com); and all of this book. Thank you Linda, Rob, Sue,
the others who’ve helped to make this infor- Greg, Maddy, and the whole publishing team
mation available and accessible. from New Society and our overseas partners.
Thank you to all the owners, builders, For personal support and generosity, and
workshop participants, and correspondents raising us along the way, we acknowledge
whose projects served as learning opportuni- and thank all of our families, friends, and
ties and proofs of concept. Most have opted collaborators. Any list would never be com-
for privacy over public acclaim, but we are plete. So:
especially appreciative of those who agreed
to share their project details in Chapter 3. Thank You.
We also wish to thank (and apologize to)
those early clients and collaborators whose
Chapter 1
Rocket Mass Heater Overview and Terms
What is a Rocket Mass Heater? designs incorporate can heat multiple rooms
A rocket mass heater is a heavy, slow-

release radiant heater. It is designed
primarily to heat people, secondarily to warm
from a central location, providing overnight
heat without the danger and difficulty of an
all-night fire. Rocket mass heaters are most
the areas in the line-of-sight around it. Modest effective in “line-of-sight” and by direct
tertiary functions include cooking, heating contact (built-in benches or sleeping plat-
pots of water, and producing some warm air forms), although they do warm some air for
for distribution to other nearby areas. heating distant rooms. Annex 6”
A rocket mass heater is not a furnace or Not all builders of rocket mass heaters Heater photo
boiler; it should not be located in a hidden use the same design. This book shows our © 2009 by
space, nor left to burn unattended. most popular “J-style” firebox design and a Kacy Ritter.
The “rocket” in the name comes from a
line of clean-burning cook stoves developed
in the 1970s, using an insulated heat riser,
to produce a very clean and efficient fire.
“Mass” refers to the mass of masonry where
it stores its heat. An RMH heater always in-
cludes an insulated, vertical, chimney-like
heat riser as part of its clean-burning com-
bustion chamber and a thermal mass to
extract heat from its clean exhaust.
An RMH can warm a home using a
fraction of the firewood required by other
common heaters, such as woodstoves and
boilers. The large, heat-storage mass these
1
2 The Rocket Mass Heater Builder’s Guide
heat-exchange channel that incorporates a The original rocket mass heaters (see
metal pipe liner. Alternatives are described Ianto Evans and Leslie Jackson’s, Rocket Mass
in Appendix 3, such as bigger batch firebox- Heaters, 2006 and 2014) were designed and
es, alternative thermal mass styles, and other built using local, earth-based, recycled, and
successful experiments. reclaimed resources. Most examples in this
Like other rocket stoves, RMHs use a nar- book show standard components, such as
row, well-insulated fire chamber to maintain firebrick and stovepipe. However, reclaimed
a clean, hot fire. Their “whooshing” sound and site-sourced materials are used by many
during full burn is pleasant (and much qui- owner-builders; Appendix 1 gives details on
eter than a propane heater). The typical fuel earthen masonry and workable alternative
used is any local, dried firewood — from materials.
small branches to split cordwood. Unlike The purpose of this book is to allow you
cooking rocket stoves, which have a reputa- to build a properly working example on your
tion for requiring finely-split fuels, a working first attempt — without replicating known
rocket mass heater can burn any log that fits pitfalls. For clarity, optional features and spe-
in the feed without further processing. cialized designs have largely been omitted,
Many high-end masonry heaters require though there is some discussion of alterna-
custom ceramic parts, but an RMH can be tive designs in Appendix 3. We encourage
built with common metal components, fire- new builders to build a proven heater design
bricks, and locally available insulation and first, and learn its ways before making any
thermal mass materials. Because the mass design modifications.
is horizontal with low, even weight distri-
bution, they are relatively easy to lay out Parts and Functions
and install. Comfortable surface tempera- An RMH has two basic parts: the combustion
tures allow these horizontal mass heaters unit and a heat exchanger. We will discuss
to be installed and used in a wide range of the combustion unit first, and move on to
situations. the heat exchanger.
Anatomy of a Rocket Mass Heater

Parts and Functions • Together, the feed, burn tunnel, and heat riser make
up the J-style firebox.
Combustion Unit
• Hot exhaust and fly ash fall down inside the down-
• Fuel loads vertically in the fuel feed. Air also enters draft bell/barrel, shedding radiant heat.
here, controlled by a feed cover (not shown). • The transition from this downdraft area into the
• Flames run sideways through the burn tunnel, then heat-exchange ducts is called the manifold (see front
up the insulated heat riser. cutaway view). A
Rocket Mass Heater Overview and Terms 3
Heat-exchange Mass
• Exhaust flows through heat-exchange channels,
transferring heat to dense masonry thermal mass.
• Exhaust exits the mass to the exit chimney.
• Capped cleanouts allow for annual inspection
and cleaning.
Front cutaway view: Shows manifold (and exit chimney,

dashed lines).
Combustion Unit cleanly — there would be extreme danger of

The combustion unit includes the fuel feed, creosote buildup in the heat-exchange chan-
burn tunnel, and heat riser (collectively the nels. In order to safely extract more heat
J-style firebox), and all the area under the bell from the fire’s exhaust, that exhaust must be
(including the difficult-to-visualize shape virtually smokeless. (When efficiency is the
under the barrel known as the manifold, goal, a dirty fire is counter-productive any-
which is the barrel-to-channel transition). way: smoke is wasted fuel.)
The combustion unit experiences the hottest
surface and internal temperatures. The right Combustion Unit Critical Functions
materials and correct proportions are critical The role of the combustion unit is to create
for longevity, good draft performance, and heat — and to do it cleanly. The flame path
clean combustion. through the firebox interior must remain
If a different type of combustion unit between 1000 and 2200°F (550 to 1200°C)
were substituted — one that did not burn as for a clean burn. Consistently meeting this
target despite the wide variety of natural materials available (high-end refractory in-
fuels and weather conditions is not a trivial sulation rated for 2800 or 3100°F (1530 to
design problem; there may be damp wil- 1700°C), suitable for direct-flame exposure).
low and very dry oak or osage in the same For proper draft performance, all the air-
woodpile. A firebox that reliably burns poor flow channels in the system must provide
fuel above 900°F may occasionally exceed the same cross-sectional area (CSA) — from
2000°F with excellent fuel. (For reference, fuel feed to exit chimney (with the excep-
the temperature of flowing lava is often given tion of the barrel and manifold area, which
as 1800°F; our clean fire can get hot enough may be larger). So, when building the fire-
to melt the Earth’s crust.) To withstand a box, you must create a consistent CSA. For
clean fire, we need special materials that are example a system using 8˝ diameter exit
rated for thousand-plus-degree tempera- pipe has a CSA of about 52 square inches,
tures, known as refractory materials. Only so the brick firebox channels are built to 7˝
clay-based brick or other suitable refracto- by 7.5.˝ See Chapter 6 for more on creating
ry materials should be used for the firebox consistent CSAs.
interior. Height: The hot, tall heat riser draws air
and flames so strongly that it pulls air and
Combustion Unit Components
flames down the relatively shorter, cooler
and Requirements
fuel feed. This is the thermal siphon effect,
J-style Firebox making the combustion unit a thermosiphon.
The fuel feed, burn tunnel, and heat riser Like an ordinary siphon, this effect depends
together create a J-shaped path for fuel and
flame. This narrow firebox or “J-tube” con-
tains the flame path, similar to the firebox
of a woodstove or other solid-fueled heaters.
Material: The firebox must be lined.
Various materials can be used, depending
on their “ratings,” which indicate their abil-
ity to withstand heat. For a 6˝ heater in a
moderate climate, materials rated for 2000
to 2400°F (1100 to 1300°C) are adequate,
such as perlite-clay and common clay build-
ing brick. For cold climates, extended burn,
or anything larger than 8˝ diameter, we pre-
fer to line the firebox with materials rated for
2500°F (1350°C) or higher (firebrick, kiln
brick, or rated refractory materials). Super-
insulated fireboxes without a dense brick
liner will reach hotter temperatures, and
should be built of the highest-temperature
on differences in height and a complete ab- the firebox to prevent smoke in the room
sence of air leaks. Unlike a water siphon, and creosote buildup in the chimney. See
though, the thermosiphon also depends on Appendix 3.
relative temperatures: hotter fluids move up, Durability: Normal fueling and clean-
cooler ones move down. A hotter, taller heat ing can damage soft materials in the fuel
riser works better. But a hotter or taller fuel feed and burn-tunnel areas. For this reason,
feed can sabotage the draft. we favor brick-lined fireboxes rather than
pure refractory insulation.
Fuel Feed Verticality: Natural wood fuels can self-
This is the opening through which fuel and feed downward for optimal air-fuel mixing
air enter the system; it is the first part of and a steady burn rate, with minimal tend-
firebox. Fuel and cool air enter through the ing. The vertical feed, with its horizontal
feed opening. The air strips heat from the opening, also allows for an extremely cheap
top of the wood, reducing smoke-back and and effective fireplace door: two full-size
preheating the air. The fire burns hottest at firebricks can slide back and forth for air
the bottom of the feed. With good dry fuel, control or complete closure. (Half-size fire-
the sticks will burn all the way through at bricks will get hot enough over a few hours’
the bottom before the fire creeps up to their fire to toast bread, a nice bonus if you don’t
tops. They drop down as the bottom burns mind hot fingers.) With any fuel door ca-
away, self-feeding and maintaining a bed of pable of complete closure, it becomes the
glowing charcoal for a steadier fire. operator’s job to remember that the fire needs
Fuel Feed Size: All fuel must fit within air. The main burn usually runs best at quar-
the fuel feed, so that the lid (not shown) can ter to half open (see Chapter 5, Operation
slide across for air control. Protruding sticks and Maintenance).
can cause smoke-back into the room. (See If you need to shut things down before the
Chapter 5, Operation and Maintenance,for fire is completely out, leave an air slot at least
more details on fueling.) one quarter open (a 2˝ opening) at all times.
The feed must be much shorter than the Closing the air off completely will not only
heat riser for the firebox to draw properly. starve the fire, it may allow smoke to back
Sixteen inches is a very practical height for up into the room as the stove cools down
the fuel feed (15˝–16˝ is a common stan- too early, or even cause a flash-back fire (ex-
dard for cord-wood cutters). A 12˝ fuel feed plosive smoke re-ignition) if the smoke-filled
is typically too short for locally available box is re-opened while hot. Indoor heating
cordwood. The height of the fuel feed is fires are best extinguished by letting the fuels
related to the height of the heat riser. Our burn down in a controlled way, not by camp-
suggested 16˝ fuel feed requires a 48˝ heat fire methods like water or smothering.
riser, while a 24˝ fuel feed would require a
72˝ heat riser (6 feet tall). Burn Tunnel
Making a feed much larger than the sys- This horizontal section of the firebox allows
tem CSA requires a complete redesign of flames to pass from the fuel area to the heat
riser. Coals often fall into this area to finish of less-clean burn, metal also warps, cracks,
burning, and ash must be removed regularly and burns away rapidly when repeatedly ex-
during the heating season. posed to high-temperature heating fires.) A
Some builders define the burn tunnel as square cross-sectional area is easiest to build
only the area under the bridge (excluding and manage. When square is not practical
the feed and heat riser areas). Our mea- with a given brick dimension, next best is
surements are consistently given as the total slightly taller than square, making it easier
lengths between the inside surfaces of the to clean out the ash. Using 9˝ firebrick to
bricks, so the area we call the burn tunnel span the bridge creates a functional limit
overlaps with the bottom of the fuel feed of about 7˝ to 8˝ burn tunnel width in any
and heat riser. case, though this limit can be circumvented
Length: The minimum burn tunnel with other materials and methods.
length is whatever is necessary to tunnel Maintenance: The burn tunnel materi-
under the bell. With a smaller barrel or cus- als must withstand intense heat and periodic
tom bell, the burn tunnel could be shorter abrasion from ash-cleanup tools. Brick works
without causing problems, but the bell must well; softer refractory materials will degrade
never overhang above the feed. over time.
The feed bricks should be completely
outside the bell, with at least ½˝ of crack-re- Bridge
sistant detailing between them, and space The bridge is the ceiling of the burn tunnel,
to remove and re-build the feed bricks if usually made with bricks or refractory slab.
needed. Ideally, we prefer a total of 4˝ to Brick Replacement: The first brick in
5˝ thickness of masonry all the way around this bridge is part of both the fuel feed and
the metal bell, especially if the masonry is the burn tunnel, where cool air and hot flame
providing both structural connection and meet. This brick experiences intense thermal
airtight, crack-resistant detailing. However, shock, strain, and damage from rough han-
this longer burn tunnel requires a taller or dling of fuel. Cracking is common. Allow for
hotter heat riser, which may be impractical eventual replacement of this brick. We typi-
under a standard 8-foot ceiling. To take up cally set this course and any feed courses that
less space in the room, we can use a metal rest on it with a pure clay mortar, to allow for
liner extending down into the masonry for easy removal and resetting of all three bricks
air sealing, and snuggle the brick feed right without rebuilding the entire firebox.
up close to the metal bell. Many attempts have been made to extend
The maximum burn tunnel length is not the lifespan of this brick, but no alternative
more than half the heat riser height. materials we’ve heard of have worked much
Shape: Brick channels, with their slight- better than a standard firebrick, which is
ly rough surfaces, give a cleaner burn than also pretty easy to replace when needed.
a smooth or round firebox. (J-tubes were A full size firebrick will also provide many
originally prototyped using metal stove- years of additional service despite a small
pipe, however in addition to the problems hairline crack, while fancy solutions may
fail in less-controlled ways and require earli- performance. Without insulation, the up-
er replacement. draft and downdraft surfaces of the heat
riser equalize about half an hour into the
Heat Riser fire. The draft stalls, causing smoke to choke
This is the engine of the system. The heat the fire (and the operator).
riser is the insulated, vertical channel that Insulation can be monolithic, such as a
draws flame upward and powers the rest of cast heat riser of insulating refractory ma-
the firebox. Insulation helps hold the flames terials, or it can be made from the light,
at high temperatures for complete combus- foam-like insulating kiln bricks. Our pre-
tion. A colleague compared the effect to ferred construction is a heat riser made of
an intentional chimney fire that burns the durable, dense firebrick, insulated with 1˝
whole time, converting harmful smoke and to 2˝ of suitable refractory insulation such
creosote into clean, efficient heat. as perlite, ceramic-fiber blanket or board, or
Heat Riser Height: The heat riser must high-temperature rock wool. See Chapter 4,
be substantially taller than the fuel feed Step by Step Construction Example.
opening (at least three times taller, measur-
ing from the floor of the burn tunnel to the Bell/Barrel
top edge of the riser). It should also be about The bell is also called the downdraft bell, con-
twice as tall as the burn tunnel’s length; this traflow bell, or the barrel. It is the container
means the heat riser is always longer (taller) that redirects hot exhaust from the heat
than the fuel feed and burn tunnel lengths riser down into the mass. Typically made
put together. with a metal barrel or similar capped cyl-
Temperature: For good draft, you’ll need inder, the weathered metal surface provides
to keep the heat riser hot. Surface tempera- quick radiant heat to the room and facili-
tures can be 2500°F during a roaring fire. tates downward draft by slightly cooling the
This means metal is not appropriate in the exhaust that flows through it.
interior of the heat riser (or anywhere in the “Bell” in masonry heating is a techni-
firebox); it will warp, crack, and eventually cal term for a chamber that traps rising hot
burn back down to ore. Ceramic materials gases to extract their heat. For proper func-
such as firebrick, clay brick, or refractory ce- tioning, its flow area must be at least four
ramic components are the best choices for a times larger than the system CSA.The gases
heat riser’s interior surfaces. Refractory in- stratify in this large slow-flowing space,
sulation (2˝ perlite or 1˝ refractory blanket) with the hottest gases at the top, and the
keeps the inside hot and the outside cool; coolest gases sinking and escaping through
the exterior of this insulation usually stays the outlet near the bottom of the bell. In a
below 600°F, so galvanized metal can be well-proportioned heater, these cooler gases
safely used for support around the outside are still warm enough to rise upward in the
of insulated heat risers. exit chimney.
Insulation: The heat riser must be In the case of rocket mass heaters,
completely insulated for reliable draft the space under the barrel is not exactly a
full-sized bell — it could also be considered ducting opening(s), usually with an ash
as an oddly-shaped contraflow channel, cleanout. So we have gases entering through
with streams of hot gases flowing down the the cylindrical slot/barrel-rim shape above,
sides toward the heat storage bench. and exiting below to reach the heating chan-
Size: The practical bottom line: In the nel(s) and a cleanout access opening.
barrel and manifold areas, flow areas from The manifold may be constructed with
twice to four times the system CSA seem to an airtight brick plenum (box) with ap-
work fine. Larger may be fine too; we have propriate metal fittings mortared in place;
not yet seen any such thing as “too much as a hollow cob or adobe cavity sealed with
space” in this area. Too small a space creates earthen plasters; or by using a metal form
problems: if there is less than 150% of the such as a partial barrel or a slot-to-round
system CSA — or less than 1.5˝ actual di- heating vent, mortared or cobbed in place.
mension between inner and outer surfaces Manifold Air Seals: Exhaust leaks or
— we see ash clogging and flow restrictions. air leaks in the manifold can interrupt the
Complete Air Seal: Airtight, smoke- downward flow in the bell, causing stalled
proof sealing is the most critical function of draft. Plan around any difficult-to-reach
the barrel or bell. Any joints must be dou- areas for a good seal and easy maintenance.
ble-sealed with gasketing, clamps, or other For example, with brick work we often see
heat-resistant sealers such as mortars or stove novice builders having difficulty making
cements. (See Appendix 5 for maximum op- good mortar seals in the corner behind the
erating temperatures and appropriate ratings firebox, where access is difficult; with a fab-
for high-temperature tapes, cements, etc.) ricated steel part, the edges and fittings are
Pinhole leaks in the barrel are not acceptable. the obvious weak points in the airtight seal.
Radiant Heat: The barrel’s primary pur- Rather than chasing leaks with your nose or
pose is not to trap hot exhaust, but to keep a CO detector, consider allowing an extra
it moving toward the heat-exchange mass. ½˝ of volume inside masonry manifolds
For this reason, the barrel must not be in- to apply a crack-free earthen plaster inside.
sulated. Radiant heat loss from the barrel Better yet, consider finishing the exterior
cools the exhaust gases so they can draft with a clay-based finish plaster, making any
downward in this area and keep the system cracks very easy to detect and repair.
drafting correctly. See Appendix 6 for dec- Manifold Area/Volume: The through-
orative and heat-shielding options around flow areas of the manifold need to be
the barrel/bell. substantially larger than the system’s cross-
sectional area: at least 150% where the
Manifold exhaust is changing direction, and about two
A manifold is a weirdly-shaped space where to four times larger where it’s merely flowing
many pipes or channels connect, like a car downward. Watch for bottlenecks created
engine’s exhaust manifold. The manifold in by fly ash buildup on any horizontal surface.
an RMH is the transition area connecting the A large ash pit below the heat-exchange
area under the barrel to the heat-exchange ducting can help reduce blockages.
Manifold Cleanout Access: Provide core, and casing. The most popular and effi-
access for annual ash cleaning. The clean cient layouts are horizontal, creating a bench,
out needs, at minimum, to allow a hand bed, or heated floor.
or vacuum brush to remove any fly ash or
obstructions between the heat-exchange Heat Exchanger Critical Functions
channels and the barrel downdraft areas. If Thermal mass storage: To function as de-
there is an ash pit, the cleanout should be scribed, an RMH needs a large mass of dense
able to reach it too. material to store heat. The materials used
We always keep this cleaning access in vary. Metal, brick, clay, stone, or even water
mind as we build — you want to be able to can all be used as heat storage mass. (Water,
reach into the manifold and pull your hand though, is a lively and weird heat-storage
back out intact, and the difference between material with its own special challenges; see
permanent structure and ash (sometimes Appendix 3.)
hardened by years of neglect) should be The original rocket mass heater designs
clear even to gloved fingertips. all used a clay-based earthen concrete called
With adobe or cob manifolds, we some- cob — and they used a lot of it. A typical
times build in a tile floor, or use a good hard rocket mass heater’s masonry may weigh 3–6
plaster on the interior. Perlite insulation tons (which is distributed on the footings at
is easily mistaken for ash, and needs some about 120–200 lbs/sf ). The transportation
plaster or tile reinforcement. With blanket of such heavy materials is a large part of
insulation, we always provide a metal cage their cost and environmental impact, which
strong enough to hold the blanket against a is why we prefer to use materials from as
vacuum nozzle’s pull, and sometimes plaster close to the project site as possible (whether
this as well. it’s stone, cob, adobe, tamped mineral soils,
Cleanout access may be: or recycled concrete rubble).
• a capped T in the first section of exhaust Heat storage capacity for a given mass of
pipe material is measured by the material’s heat
• a capped pipe or tile cleanout in the capacity, weight, conductivity, and degree
manifold itself (mortared into masonry of temperature difference. It’s possible to
manifolds) store the same amount of heat in less mass
• a removable barrel or barrel-lid, air-sealed if you can get the mass hotter ... but the
with fiberglass woodstove gasket. (But lift- temperature of the small, hot mass will also
ing an entire barrel carefully over the heat drop more quickly, delivering that heat in a
riser every year will make you wish for an shorter time.
easier cleanout.) Airtight: The channels that carry ex-
haust through the thermal mass should
Heat Exchanger be double-sealed to prevent exhaust leaks.
The heat exchanger includes the system of The primary seal is created when building
channels and masonry that capture exhaust the channels from metal pipes, clay pipe
heat: the heat-exchange ducting, thermal or chimney liners, or mortared brick. A
Insulation Note:
Some people think insulation “stores heat” or “keeps Insulating materials to watch out for in the thermal
things hotter.” But, as it goes with a Thermos, insulation mass core include hollow straw, and any material with
can also keep things colder. What’s going on? empty air pockets (loose sand, gravel, sloppy filling
Insulation actually blocks heat transfer. The insu- around the pipes, etc.). Insulation is sometimes desir-
lation itself typically doesn’t hold much heat, being able around the outsides of the mass, to prevent heat
mostly air, so it prevents heat from reaching anything transfer (for example along an exterior wall), or as re-
on the other side. Thus you typically don’t want to put movable cushions that trap and control the stored heat
insulating materials between the exhaust pipes and for later use (for sleeping cool, then tucking toes under
thermal mass, or within the thermal mass; this would the cushions next morning). A small amount of straw or
stop your heat from reaching its storage (and you!). fiber in the outer casing can be useful for other reasons.
secondary seal is provided by wet-formed structurally sound through decades of use,

masonry in direct contact with these lined possibly including earthquakes, floods, and
channels. If there is no wet-formed masonry changes of family life. Structural integri-
around the pipe channels, then a reliable air ty must carry through both the core and
seal must be provided some other way (for casing.
example, welding the pipes, and installing
Heat Exchanger Components
CO detectors).
and Requirements
Efficient Heating: Conductive heating
is highly efficient. A full-body heating pad Channels
or heated seat keeps occupants deliciously Lined channels carry the warm exhaust
warm, even at room temperatures cooler through the mass, transferring heat through
than normal. Radiant floors or low heated the channel walls into the storage mass.
benches reduce stratification of room air; Using standard metal pipes makes it easier
instead of hot air rising up to the ceiling and to lay out and set slopes for these channels,
looking for ways to escape the house, more but channels can also be built with any ma-
warmth stays down where it’s most useful, terial that will tolerate the heat, damp and
resulting in greater overall comfort and less corrosive exhaust, and occasional abrasion
wasted heat. from cleaning: clay chimney liner, clay drain
Safety (structural and fire/exhaust): pipe, or smoothly-mortared brick.
The thermal mass bench must be airtight Consistent Cross-sectional Area (CSA):
to prevent smoke leaks and control any From manifold to chimney, all the ducts are
condensation/drainage. It must remain the same cross-sectional area. Ideally, the
areas connect smoothly, without corruga- seriously affecting the system draft. Avoid
tions or obstacles to induce turbulence, and corrugated pipe, wrinkly corrugated elbows,
the channels are shaped as circles, rounded wrinkly flexible ducting, or chimney-liner
squares, or other similar shapes that allow sections with spiral corrugations. Adjustable
excellent through-flow. elbows that rotate are smooth enough to
Heat-exchange Duct Length: The heat- work well, and T’s for cleanouts seem to
exchange channels extract and store useful have little effect on drag. Large voids, such
heat, but they also represent a load on the as cleanout extensions through an exterior
system’s draft (through friction and cool- wall, may affect draft.
ing). A 6˝ or 8˝ diameter system typically Maintenance: As in the combustion
has 20 to 40 feet of ducting length, and unit, all linings should be durable enough
at least one 180-degree turn. There is no to tolerate manipulation of a brush, drain
practical minimum length, but a shorter snake, or Shop-Vac hose.
system will store less heat and may exhib- Capped Cleanouts: Cleanouts need to
it over-drafting (drawing too much air for allow maintenance access to every part of
the fire). See Chapter 6 for specific rules of the system. Critical cleanouts are located
thumb regarding length. at each 180-degree bend and at the bottom
Orientation: Roughly horizontal layouts of each vertical drop such as the barrel/
are the norm; they distribute weight loads manifold and the exit chimney. Any series
and offer maximum comfort seating. We of 90-degree bends may also need addi-
slope the pipes upward slightly, ¼˝ over 8 tional cleanouts to give access to each pipe.
feet or so, or about 1˝ over the whole run in Imagine using a periscope mirror and flash-
a level bench. This slope allows for upward light to try and find an asphyxiated squirrel
gas flow, downward drainage of condensa- in there, and make it easy.
tion water to a cleanout, and provides even Fresh Air Separation: If any channels
heating on the surface by locating the hot- are built to convey outside air or room air,
test pipes lower and the cooler pipes closer these must be completely separate from the
to the surface. exhaust ducting channels. Be extra careful
Where a vertical configuration is needed in any areas where an exhaust leak would
to fit the space, channels should run rough- be hard to inspect, such as the wall side or
ly horizontal or with a slight rise between interior of the heater.
turns, just as in a horizontal bench. Avoid The exit chimney opening should like-
zigzagging up-down runs because they trap wise be located outdoors, above the roof
hot and cold air, causing substantially more ridge, a suitable distance from any nearby
draft resistance and inconsistent heating. air intakes, doors, or windows.
Smooth Inner Lining: Only smooth,
easily-cleaned materials should be used to Thermal Mass
line the heating channels. Rough or cor- Thermal mass refers to all the masonry
rugated textures can create drag equivalent surrounding the heat-exchange ducting, in-
to tens of additional feet of length per foot, cluding the core and the casing.
Density/Heat Storage: Thermal mass is dense and conductive, the opposite of insu-
dense so it can store more heat over hours or lation. If airy or light materials are included
days. Light, foamy, or airy materials block in the mass (either to reduce weight, or in
heat transfer and have less heat-storage a misguided attempt to save the heat), they
capacity. will reduce the heat transfer and heat-stor-
Reactivity: Thermal mass materials age capability of the mass.
should be nontoxic, chemically resistant or
inert. They should not corrode or degrade Core, Thermal Cob
if exposed to exhaust leaks or minor water This is the dense material that surrounds
damage, and be completely unaffected by the channels of the heat exchanger. Usually
moderate heat. The hottest areas are immedi- it is earthen masonry or fireclay-mortared
ately around the firebox, manifold, and first unit masonry. It is the permanent structure
run of heat-exchange ducting. Temperatures around the ducting, and provides the im-
of the interior mass in these areas may exceed mediate heat transfer and most critical heat
500°F during operation, with surface tem- storage mass.
peratures up to 250°F. Secondary Seal: The core of the heater
Conduction, Not Insulation: Airy ma- provides the secondary seal and heat-trans-
terials such as perlite, pumice, straw, and fer functions around the heat-exchange
dry sand offer insulation, not heat storage. ducting. The ducting may last for decades,
Insulation may be useful between thermal but good masonry detailing here can last for
mass and exterior walls, but not within the centuries. If you notice any voids, cracks, or
mass itself. Thermal mass should be relatively crumbling areas in the core materials as they
dry, these cracks should be patched, or the materials include earthen plaster, stone,
faulty material should be removed and re- brick, tile, and some other materials that
placed before finishing the casing. offer a durable and attractive finish. Some
Heat Conduction: Core materials should builders have used wood trim, but only in
be fairly conductive — comparable to brick well-tested locations away from high-heat
or earthen masonry, which transmits heat at areas.
about 1˝ per hour. If using an infill tech- The casing can be built first and then
nique (such as described for greenhouse filled (for example a brick box, with the
heaters or some portable designs), try to find ducting just 1˝ from the inside of the brick),
mixed, small aggregates such as ¾˝-minus built in courses tied into the heater’s core
rock-crusher gravel or quarry fines, masonry (like rough stonework), or applied later as a
sand, or a suitably gravel-rich natural miner- finish layer (such as plaster or tile). Materials
al soil. Avoid sifted sand, beach sand, perlite, that could trap moisture are best applied
or other uniform and air-trapping materials. after the core is completely dry. If the heater
No matter the size of the particles, mixed has been thoroughly test-fired while dry-
sizes and sharp edges are easier to pack and ing, these decorative materials can hide any
stack, and dense packing gives better heat patched cracks from the drying process or
storage. (Four loose buckets of good mason- heat-expansion.
ry sand plus 1 bucket of clay might make Durability: The casing materials should
2.5 packed buckets of fill material — it gets stand up to ordinary wear-and-tear. Normal
a lot denser as you mix.) A mess of identical use includes people sitting, sleeping, dining,
round sand grains or river rocks are hard to dropping things, wrestling on the sofa, and
stack, and it will take a lot of clay, mortar, or climbing all over it like monkeys. Common
fill materials to fill those air pockets or they variations might include sheltering and wa-
will block heat transfer. tering houseplants, using heat to quicken
Infill: The core of the bench can incorpo- home brewing, quick step-ladder function
rate any available masonry rubble including to water hanging plants or change an over-
concrete chunks, rock, gravel, even pottery head light ... possibly all simultaneously.
shards or broken dishes. Avoid dangerous Crayon-resistance is optional.
materials such as broken glass, vacuum tubes Repair or Refinish: Some materials are
(strange but true, people have buried old easier to repair than others (see Appendix
TVs in cob projects — repair crews beware!), 1). It is helpful to set aside color-matched
contaminated factory wastes, or heat-sensi- plaster for later patching.
tive/flammable materials. The best masonry heaters are designed
for eventual piece-by-piece inspection and
Casing repair; they last longer because they can be
Also referred to as cladding or veneers, the fixed or remodeled as needed. Some mod-
casing is the final, outer layers of the heat-ex- ern masonry materials bond too strongly for
change mass and the supporting masonry practical repairs; instead of repointing soft
around the combustion unit. Typical casing mortar or grout, a crack in these modern
materials may require complete replacement remain below 150°F (65°C) — not painful-
of broken bricks and tiles. ly hot to touch. An isolated hot spot can be
Moisture Protection: The heater should covered with thicker masonry (tile, plaster,
be well protected from damp, including or a sculptural element such as an arm-rest
ventilation and drainage of the heater base over the hottest areas adjacent to the barrel).
to dry out construction moisture. But don’t Or you could add another inch or two of
try to waterproof the entire outer surface: tile or plaster to the whole bench, to absorb
trapped internal moisture can cause blis- some of the excess heat.
tering or separation of the casing layer,
or unsightly mineral blooms. Breathable, Exit Chimney
heat-tolerant finishes can be used to create The exit chimney is a sealed pipe or flue that
a water-resistant, durable surface. Waxes, conveys exhaust out of the building. Proper
oil paints, and volatile oils generally are not chimney design helps ensure good draft for
suitable for heated surfaces. the heater, despite varying wind and weather.
See Appendix 1 for more detail on nat- Most installations use a standard manufac-
ural plasters and other compatible finishes. tured chimney, a low-temperature appliance
Heat Tolerance: Operating tempera- exhaust, or a lined masonry chimney.
tures for the heat-exchange mass itself tend Draft: Vertical, warm chimneys provide
to range between 70–100°F for room heat- draft that keeps the whole system operating
ers (20–40°C), or up to 150°F (65°C) for smoothly, and provides a slight under-pres-
larger house heaters. Combustion unit tem- sure to prevent smoke escaping any pinhole
peratures and some high-output designs leaks. Unconventional chimneys often cause
may have higher surface temperatures (up draft problems.
to 250°F/120°C). Structure: Chimneys should be physical-
Natural wood trim can be used on areas ly self-supporting independent of the heater
that never exceed 150°F (65°C) in the heavi-
est use. Natural fibers can be included in
mineral plasters (clay, lime, gypsum plasters)
without making the plaster combustible.
Fabric Choices: Natural-fiber fabrics and
battings that tolerate warm or hot settings
on an iron or tumble-dryer (roughly 300
to 400°F/150–200°C) are suitable for most
heat-exchange benches or beds. Remember
that cushions are insulation; heat trapped
underneath cushions can raise the surface
temperature of the masonry higher than if
it were bare. Check to make sure all surface
temperatures in contact with wood, fabric, A taller chimney opening allows enough screen surface
cushions, or other combustible materials area for 100% flow.
itself (in case of building problems, refits, or dew point at 60 or 70°F (15 to 20°C). This
repairs). is very exciting for efficiency fans, as almost
Maintenance: Chimneys should have no heat is being lost outside the building.
a cleanout near the bottom of the vertical Unfortunately, this exhaust emerges as a
section, an appropriate rain cap and screen cool, dense fog that will not rise in a con-
(with through-flow area of at least 100% of ventional chimney, and it lacks the force to
system area). overcome even the slightest wind pressure.
Wind and Weather: The simplest and These ultra-low-temperature exhausts must
most reliable options are generally dictated exit nearly horizontal or downward, and are
by local building codes and best practices for difficult to protect from normal wind and
combustion appliance exhaust and wood- household pressure conditions. Too-low ex-
stove chimneys. Wind gusts, snow loads, ice haust temperatures create draft problems in
dams, rain, prevailing winds, seismic loads, almost all conventional buildings, and are
differential frost heave or settling of build- especially unreliable in winter storm condi-
ings, and variable outdoor temperatures tions (just the time when an electrical exhaust
create special problems for chimney design. fan is also vulnerable to power failure).
The easiest place to make a chimney exit The only conditions in which a balky
weatherproof is actually near the ridge top, heater with a tendency to run backwards
where there is less rain and snow coming would be acceptable are conditions where
down the roof toward the installation, and winter heating is not critical for surviv-
it’s easier to lap the chimney flashing over any al — and in those cases, passive solar heat
type of roofing. This also allows the build- collection and a smaller, seldom-used wood
ing’s rafters or trusses to support most of the heater would generally be a more practical
chimney, while raising it to the proper height and more energy-efficient solution.
above the gusting chaos of building-related For reliable draft and efficiency, we
wind eddies. generally target a surface temperature of
Temperature: Woodstoves must exhaust 100–150°F (40–65°C) on the exposed exit
above 350°F by law in the US (about 175°C, chimney pipe during test-firing. Average ex-
but local laws vary). Fireplaces and wood- haust temperatures inside the pipe are likely
stoves often exhaust as hot as 600–800°F close to 200°F/90°C, the low end of mason-
(300 to 450°C). Masonry heaters generally ry heater exhaust).
exhaust between 200–400°F (90 to 200°C). For further discussion of best practices,
Rocket mass heaters can draft substantially see Chapter 4, Step by Step Construction
lower, as low as 60°F (15°C) in some odd Example and Appendix 3, Alternative Chim-
cases outside the realm of normal building neys.
practice.
Some efficiency-minded colleagues glory Major Design Considerations
in seeking out the absolute minimum ex- Here are some general “rules of thumb” to
haust temperature. A few of Evan’s original follow when installing a rocket mass heater.
heaters ran fog-like exhaust well below its These rules are covered in detail in Chapter
6. However, a few key points may be im- So if you have a variable heating season
portant at this stage. (such as not heating if you’re gone on vaca-
Cross-sectional Area (CSA): The basic tion), the climate is hot or variable, you are
rocket mass heater designs use the same not able to store two years’ supply of dry
cross-sectional area for all channels, with wood, or you want to be able to operate the
the exception of the downdraft barrel and heater in warmer weather for saunas or visi-
manifold (which may be larger). tors, consider a shorter bench run.
Combustion Area Proportions: The A poor exit chimney (cold, less than half
heat riser height drives the whole system’s the building height) is a tremendous obsta-
draft. The heat riser should be at least three cle to good draft. The condensation of water
times taller than the fuel feed, and at least in the exhaust can cause chimney stalls,
twice as tall as the burn tunnel length. which helps explain why cold, exposed out-
As an example, an 8˝ heater that meets door chimneys often draft poorly, even if
these proportions might have a 16˝ fuel they never become actually colder than out-
feed, a 24˝ burn tunnel, and a heat riser door air.
48˝ tall. The heat riser could be taller (up to Detailed rules of thumb, building codes,
about 6 feet) but not shorter. and workable proportions are given in
Length of Heat-exchange Pipes: The Chapter 6: Rules and Codes.
goal is to extract as much heat as practical,
without making the system too cold for Is a Rocket Mass Heater
comfort or too difficult to start. Climate, Right for Me?
heat load, and available space all factor into What Rocket Mass Heaters
the desired size of mass. The mass and pipe Are and Aren’t
length are not the only load on the system Rocket mass heaters are large space heaters,
draft: the number of turns, rough texture of typically installed in a central part of an oc-
pipe, or other obstacles to smooth flow will cupied home. In the right location, they are
greatly reduce the draft and a shorter pipe extremely efficient. In the wrong setting,
may be needed to compensate. they are a waste of effort.
A typical heat-exchange bench runs
about 20 to 35 feet of heat-exchange chan- • They provide steady, ongoing heat. They
nels, with one or two 180-degree turns, for a work best in a continuously-occupied
cool-climate exhaust that runs about 100 to home (as opposed to a weekend cabin or
150°F (pipe exterior temperature). chapel).
For hotter climates or trickier operating • Rocket mass heaters are not automated
conditions, a shorter bench and a hotter ex- central heating. They do not replace a fur-
haust (200–250°F) may give more reliable nace or boiler; they are not designed to
draft. A heater with horizontal channels be- run unattended in a basement. Instead,
tween 12 and 20 feet in length will exhaust they are a form of gentle radiant heater,
in this hotter temperature range. The sacri- and they perform best when centrally lo-
fice in fuel efficiency is only about 10%. cated in the occupied space. Many owners
find that their rocket mass heater substan- (inefficient) functions of a furnace or boiler.
tially offsets the furnace bills, and heats Part of the way they save energy is by heating
several adjacent rooms nicely, but the heat people instead of space. (See in Chapter 2,
may not evenly reach the farthest rooms. “Heat Transfer” for details.)
• Human Operated: For reliable heat in To achieve the best possible results,
case of grid power failures, our designs are these systems rely on locally available ma-
fully manual, no electric automation. This terials, knowledge, and fuels (ideally waste
means a human operator must supervise or thinned fuels, not standing timber).They
the fire. offer simple and satisfying operation and
• Unusual: Local officials may have no idea maintenance, and low construction costs
how to permit or inspect one, and insur- (competitive with a new woodstove). When
ance companies may need to be approached properly constructed they will produce a
(and educated) about coverage. There is a clean fire (no creosote or wasted fuel).
learning curve for operating a downdraft Most masonry heater designs share these
heater, as the fire is upside down compared goals of safe warmth and fuel efficiency, and
to most woodstoves or fireplaces. many achieve similar clean burning and
• Site-specific design and installation implies heat storage. However, most masonry heat-
local knowledge and intelligent choices. er designs of comparable capacity are more
Unique designs are more common than expensive to build due to cast-ceramic parts,
any standard model. When building in metal and glass doors, fancy veneers, and
a new situation, it’s possible that under other popular design elements. Each style
those new conditions, an identical heater of masonry heater has its own special de-
will not function as described here. sign rules and tolerances. (See The Book of
• Finally, the designs in this book are in- Masonry Stoves, by David Lyle.)
tended to burn only natural wood fuel The designs we use were developed within
such as brush, branches, poles, small logs, North American culture, specifically within
split cordwood, lumber scraps, and small a grassroots community of self-sufficiency
amounts of other natural fuels such as enthusiasts. Rocket mass heaters are attrac-
paper tinder. For examples of alternative tive to this community because they offer
fuels designs, see Appendix 3. grid-independent or off-grid heating, and
they are good alternatives for single-fami-
Considerations
ly or single-occupant homes whose owners
Benefits are busy and have limited hours to tend the
An RMH provides efficient heating that fire. They also offer a quick return on in-
matches the needs of many American house- vestment. This is important in our context
holds, especially for a primary residence. They because, on average, Americans move their
offer safe warmth overnight; efficient use of households every five years.
local, renewable resources; and affordable, We can hope, but we do not confidently
DIY-friendly construction and maintenance. expect more than five years’ return on any
Rocket mass heaters do not duplicate the investment in home improvements.
Some Pros and Cons quickly. Rocket mass heaters provide quick
Convenience at modest cost comes with radiant heat from the metal bell, and steady
some downsides. Here is a quick review of stored heat from the bench: best of both
some pros and cons of RMH heaters: worlds.
Con: The metal bell’s radiant heat can over-
Pro: Quick payback. Fuel savings will often power a small room during extended firings;
repay installation costs in less than four all-masonry heaters may heat more evenly.
years — often less than one year for resource- The bench takes time to heat up after an ab-
ful scroungers replacing inefficient heaters. sence, and will also store heat even if not
Con:The most effective, cheap materials are wanted (such as if you fire it up to cook in
not always the prettiest, and there can be summer).
conflicts with local building codes.
Pro: Rocket mass heaters are not dependent
Pro: Rocket mass heaters are routinely built on power grids or imported sources. Heater
by novice masons and owner-builders. self-regulates to a degree, but rewards con-
Expert help that might be available could scientious operation.
include interested heater masons, natural Con: You may need a house-sitter during
building contractors, and heating engineers; winter vacations to light the stove two or
such professionals may be able to help with three times per week, if you need to keep
projects challenges, including local legal plants and plumbing intact in cold climates.
questions. If your sitters can’t be trusted or trained,
Con: Work done by non-professionals may you’ll rely on other options like an old but
be less acceptable to local decision makers. working furnace, heat-tape for the pipes, or
Owner-builders often have more legal free- using frost-free plumbing design.
dom than landlords, mortgage-holders, or
renters. Drawbacks
They Take Up Space
Pro: Materials are readily available. Com
mercial, reclaimed, or recycled parts and Rocket mass heaters do fit into a surprising va-
local mineral materials may be used for mass. riety of situations, having simpler foundation
Con: Using reclaimed or site-sourced materi requirements, more flexible design configura-
als may not be permitted under building tions, and lower heights and clearances than
codes; upgrading to new, modern materials many other masonry heaters. But they still
may involve unexpected costs. Using site- take up a substantial amount of space.
sourced materials effectively takes some skill Most North Americans use hidden fur-
and practice. naces or a compact (if uncomfortable)
woodstove. Modern homes may not have
Pro: Heat output is both steady and respon- an ideal space for a mass heater.
sive. A traditional masonry heater requires Traditional masonry heaters are often
12- to 24-hour advance operation. A built first, then the house is built around
woodstove heats instantly, but cools just as them. A well-integrated masonry heater can
serve as a dividing wall to warm three or Learning Curves Can Be Steep

more rooms, and other nifty features can While the vast majority of owners have little
be added. Retrofitting these features into an trouble adapting to their new heaters, it may
existing space is trickier. be a different story for guests or new tenants.
The optimal place for effective heating Contractors unfamiliar with the design may
is to locate the heater wherever you sit the introduce almost as many problems as they
most; you can replace the woodstove plus solve. Well-meaning visitors can have a great
your favorite sofa. If that’s not possible, con- deal of trouble guessing how to correctly op-
sider a new dividing wall or section of floor erate the heater.
(with the heater mass sunk into the crawl If possible, visit others’ heaters during the
space). The most effective heating location heating season, or build a prototype in an
is therefore, unfortunately, the one that will outbuilding. Nothing convinces the house-
most disturb a beloved hangout spot. hold holdouts like the experience of sitting
Change is not fun, and living in a on the warm bench in chilly weather.
construction zone is not fun, so consider do-
mestic tranquility in your planning. It may Loading Takes Time
be less disruptive to build the heater into a A rocket heater can only burn so much fuel
new addition on the house, even if the result- in a day, or in the available hours that peo-
ing heat is less efficient than with a centrally ple can watch the fire. But the fire should
placed heater. Or, your rocket remodel could not burn unattended — though the oper-
redefine the favorite hangout spot, turning ator can easily combine fire tending with
an under-used space or bump-out into the other routine activities nearby. Keep an ear
hot new hangout spot. or eye on the heater from any nearby room,
refueling or adjusting the fire every hour or
Non-standard Technology two. Hours of operation vary with heating
In this era of global appliance manufac- load.
turing, site-built masonry heaters may be In modest, well-insulated homes (up to
rare in your area. Local officials, co-owners, about 1500 square feet), an 8˝ system might
mortgage lenders, and others may need time burn:
to get used to the idea.
• 1 to 2 hours per day in cool/mild weather
Do you need approval for your project?
(30–60°F/0–15°C)
Mortgage or insurance contracts may im-
• 4 to 6 hours per day in chilly weather (0 to
pose strict penalties if you build your own
30°F/-15 to 0°C)
heater without official approval. Some own-
• 8 to 10 hours per day in sub-zero cold
ers have had success getting local permits, or
(-30 to 0°F/-35 to -15°C).
discovering applicable exemptions; others
have run up against weird local regulations Larger homes, leaky or thin-walled build-
or skeptical building officials. ings, or an extreme climate will require more
See Chapter 6 and Appendix 2 for more fuel, and thus more time, to heat. In some
about local codes. cases a rocket mass heater may not be enough
to offset all building losses; you may need a Dry fuel is not found in nature, nor is it
backup heat source for really cold weather, found on damp ground under a tarp. Like
or you may have to make some home heat- dehydrated fruit or dry laundry, dry fire-
ing efficiency improvements. wood is a product of intelligent effort. The
Multiple heaters are not very convenient tool for producing dry fuel wood is a wood
to run unless they can be automated (or you shed. A good, dry woodshed repays the in-
have more operators to share the work than vestment many times over with lower fuel
heaters). costs, less work, brighter fires, safer chim-
If you want to heat a large home on wood neys, and easier (and cheaper) chimney
alone, with minimal operator hours per day maintenance.
(not counting wood preparation), consid- Wood drying requirements vary by cli-
er large masonry heater designs that have mate, but plan to store a minimum of two
larger batch-burn fireboxes, or automated years’ supply: half for use this year, half dry-
central heating (furnaces, boilers). They will ing for next year (or in case of an unusually
not be as fuel efficient, but heating large hard winter). Some varieties of wood take
spaces with small numbers of people inside longer to dry.
is not an energy-efficient lifestyle to begin If you currently have an almost-big-
with. enough woodshed, a rocket heater’s fuel
For all spaces, consider ways to reduce the efficiency may relieve you of the need to
heating loads. Can you capture or conserve build a larger one. If you currently have no
more heat? Can you cluster the heat-loving storehouse capable of producing or storing
elements into a smaller space? Can you im- dry fuel, your budget for a wood-burning
prove insulation, or close off unused closets heater MUST include dry fuel storage. For
and rooms to protect the warm core? details, see Chapter 5, and our companion
We have known people to keep their orig- booklet The Art of Fire.
inal furnace or woodstove, and use the mass
heater to cut their overall fuel bills (often Limited Flame-viewing
to one quarter or less of the original costs) One of the customary perks of heating with
while retaining the old heater for backup. wood is the pleasure of watching the flames.
In general, rocket mass heaters have been The efficient J-style firebox is intellectual-
most popular for small, efficient homes, in ly amazing, but hard to watch from across
temperate to sub-arctic climates. Arctic and the room. The operator gets the best view,
industrial-scale designs are beyond the scope though the flickering display on the ceiling
of this book, except as noted in Appendix 3. can also be fascinating. Mirrors or reflective
surfaces near the feed (such as a band of
Firewood Takes Work shiny metal trim on the barrel) can offer a
Those moving from automated heaters (fur- reflected glow.
nace, heat pump, baseboard heaters) to wood Ceramic glass can be used with care in
heat may not realize what’s involved in secur- some areas of the firebox; however, the glass
ing and storing dry firewood. is not as insulating as an 8˝ masonry and
insulation sandwich, and the clean burn home on Sunday afternoon and waste the
seems to suffer. Getting a glass-fronted door remaining stored heat.
suitable to anchor in masonry (for example, While a rocket mass heater’s radiant
from traditional oven suppliers) can add barrel does offer more responsive heat than
$500 or more to the project cost. most masonry heaters, making Friday night
If fire-watching is a serious hobby in your cozier, the heat in the mass is still wasted on
household, consider a separate “fire TV” for Monday and Tuesday instead of being avail-
occasional use, such as a glass-door wood- able for your enjoyment.
stove, Rumford fireplace, or rack of candles. That ski cabin might be just as comfort-
These low-mass space heaters can be perfect able with a simple radiant heat source like
for a parlor, guest suite, studio, or formal a Rumford fireplace or woodstove. Even an
dining room that is not used every day. inefficient woodstove or space heater may
use less energy over time if heat is only need-
Some Spaces and Uses Are Unsuitable
ed in short bursts. In general, for heaters
Occasional-use Spaces that will be warmed up on demand for only
Thermal mass is slow to heat up and slow to a few hours, we prefer a thinner mass (2˝ to
cool down. It takes time and energy to shift 4˝); or a lower-cost option such as a wall of
the heater back from cold-slab mode (lovely brick behind a woodstove.
in summer’s heat) to warm-cuddly mode. If The same problem occurs in churches,
the heater mass is colder than outside air, meeting halls, retreats, and guest facilities:
the draft can be reluctant to start. preheating the mass takes precious custodial
If you have a vacation cabin where you time and energy, and there is the same prob-
spend the occasional long weekend, it may lem of wasted heat after the group leaves the
not be the best place for a large masonry space.
heater. You spend Friday night and part of Passive solar designs and climate-appro-
Saturday in a chilly cabin bringing the mass priate designs, including insulation for harsh
up to temperature, enjoy the warmth brief- climates, are a good investment no matter
ly on Sunday morning, only to head back what the building’s used for.
Comparing Other Heating Options

When we suggest that a rocket mass heater is not Alternative heating options are discussed in more de-
a good fit for a particular situation or goals, we are tail on the energy forums at www.permies.com, www.
often asked about other heating options. The Heating builditsolar.com, and www.chimneysweeponline.com.
Situation graph compares common wood-fired and A
energy-efficient heating choices, and the situations
where they may be most useful.
Portable Structures and We have considered some camper and

Off-ground Flats boat mass-heater designs. In general, most
A mass heater is, well, massive. Masonry live-aboards and campers are compact
heaters are best supported on noncom enough that insulation (like a room-sized
bustible foundations directly on the ground, sleeping bag) is an easier path to comfort,
in the occupied areas of the home. and far less weight to transport.
If your home does not have any ground- The design particulars for all of these sit-
floor occupied areas, or is a flat without uations are outside the scope of this book,
permission to alter the rooms above, yours except for Appendix 3.
is a difficult situation for a mass heater.
Manufactured homes and portable dwell- Domestic Hot Water and Cooking
ings have additional constraints: they sacrifice We enjoy cooked food and hot water year-
energy efficiency and size for convenience, round, while home heating is a seasonal
and may have special code requirements for need. Basic survival cooking can be done on
appliances. top of the heater’s metal bell, or hot water
It may be easier to build an addition (like warmed in batches with an open tank or pot.
a sunroom) onto a manufactured home, or However, providing pressurized domestic
as part of a pull-in shelter for a camper. hot water is a complex design problem with
This makes it easy to support the heater on potentially lethal risks. Most households
noncombustible pad or blocks, rather than should have a separate device for summer
trying to support a heavy mass on a portable cooking and for domestic hot water. Boilers
floor system. and hot water design are beyond the scope of
this book, except as discussed in Appendix 3.
Chapter 2
General Design Considerations
Site-specific Design • selected with cost in mind: near an existing
R ocket mass heaters are almost always

customized to suit a particular building
and its occupants. As you examine a build-
chimney, footing, thermal mass, planned
addition, etc.
• safely clear of combustibles and walkways
ing’s overall heating needs, orientation, and • able to deliver heat naturally — by con-
patterns of use, you may find that the place tact (seating, floors), radiant heat (central,
for a thermal mass heater naturally reveals line-of-sight), or rising air convection
itself. Sometimes there is only one place for (stairwells, fans, lower areas of split-level
such a large bench to be truly useful. In other buildings).
cases, you may have to decide between several In real life, we seldom get an absolutely
possible locations based on existing footings perfect placement. If you are able to satisfy
and chimneys, clearances, heating advantag- more than half these goals with your pro-
es, seating arrangements, pathways, etc. posed location, you’re doing pretty well.
An ideal location for a rocket mass heater Don’t forget to consider:
is:
• existing heat sources (kitchen, appliances,
• central, where warmth is needed near the sun)
home’s core use areas (seating/sleeping/ • cold influences (winter winds, exposed
dining areas) — not necessarily the exact walls and windows)
center of the house • areas that may benefit from staying cool
• within sight of daily activities (making the (pantries, mudrooms, storage)
heater convenient to operate) • areas where people need the most warmth
• on a suitable footing (noncombustible, (evenings/offices/nursery)
stout) with access to an appropriate ex- • passive solar design orientation for free
haust chimney warmth and coolness in season
25
Heat Transfer air currents at the floor, or negative pressure

Convection The more effectively a home uses natu- that inhibits proper chimney draft. Homes
currents in a ral heat transfer, the less energy it takes to can also generate negative pressure due to
heated home. maintain comfort. vent fans, winds, and other factors (see “Air
Supply,” below).
A little ventilation is a good thing, but
if you have too much air flow for comfort,
give your house a warm cap at the top:
weather-seal upstairs windows, ceilings, and
attic hatches to stop the leaks, and insulate
between ceiling joists. Rising air does carry
some heat out of a building, but not much
compared with the heat stored in mass and
structures.
Radiation
Radiant heat is heat that moves like light.
Radiation travels in straight lines, and can
be absorbed, reflected, shaded, bent, or
Convection re-radiated as it hits things. Radiant heat
Hot air rises. goes right through air and space, delivering
Air is not great at heat transfer; it conducts heat mostly to solid surfaces. Obstacles can
poorly and causes cooling by evaporation. block a surprising amount of radiant heat.
But if you are generating extra hot air, ex- Fire screens, glass fire doors, and heat shields
pect it to rise upward. Controlled vents or can block 50–80% of the heat from a fire.
stairwells with doors can be a very cheap way Radiant heat works best in line-of-sight.
to move surplus warmth around a building. Objects closer to the heat get way hotter
(Without a door or vent closure for control, (Intensity = 1/d2). Move twice as far from
it’s easy to overheat the upper floors and start the fire, and you get one quarter the heat.
a vicious cycle where nobody is comfortable.) If possible, locate the metal radiant bar-
Air tends to stratify by temperature. rel near the center of the heated space, so
Nobody likes a hot head and cold feet, and that all areas to be heated are relatively close.
hot air at the ceiling is basically wasted ener-
gy. Warm radiant floors or low benches can
Convection- help counteract stratification, giving better
powered things comfort at lower energy cost.
often have Warm homes act like a chimney. Air
vertical, tube- comes in at the bottom and out at the top. Radiant heat spreads out in all directions; you
like, or bell-like This air movement helps ventilate the build- may notice round or flat emitters and dish-shaped
shapes. ing, but it can also create problems like cold collectors.
General Design Considerations 27
This line-of-sight principle also makes it eas- heated bench into comfortable seating.
ier to monitor the fire from your most-used Don’t try to hide the heater, or squeeze it in
rooms. somehow between old furnishings. This is a
massive object. It will dominate the room.
Conduction Make it a feature.
Conduction is heat transfer through touch, Rocket mass heaters are most effective
contact, and within objects (such as heat in regularly-occupied spaces, where it’s con-
traveling up a hot spoon). Conduction is venient to tend the fire and you can fully
almost infinitely more efficient than other appreciate the stored warmth.
forms of heat, so take care not to get burned! A heater hidden in a basement or “me-
The best way to take advantage of con- chanical room” will never give as much fuel
duction with a rocket mass heater is to sit, savings as one that is conveniently located
lie, or lean on the warm mass. If you place near users. If it is not regularly used, it can
a heater “out of the way” against a wall or become so cold that it will be difficult to
level with the floor, be prepared to walk start in emergencies. And if the heater is in
around everyone who ends up lying or lean- a room that would otherwise be unheated,
ing against the warm surface. you’ve just added a bunch more walls to the
workload.
Zone Efficiency
Building codes imply that all rooms need to
be heated equally. In practice, most people
prefer some rooms to be warmer and oth-
ers cooler — and storage can definitely be Conceptual
cooler. home layout
Imagine the core of your home as an egg, around a
with the heater as the yolk. At the narrow warm core.
Conduction is heat transferred in direct contact;

look for solids or contoured shapes
Heater Placement
An RMH will redefine your most comfort-
able hangout areas. Plan on replacing some
big furniture, such as a well-used sofa or
love seat, unless you’re expanding the build-
ing. To get the most use out of the heater,
consider how you can best make the built-in
end, kitchen appliances produce their own Radiant Heat

heat. At the wide end, core living areas Radiant heat works best in line of sight, so
cluster around the heater. To protect from center the heater where it can be seen from
excess heat loss, limit exposed exterior walls. most rooms. The Book of Masonry Stoves
A buffer zone of unheated pantries, storage (Lyle) shows several ways to build an oblong
closets, screened porches, and landscaping masonry heater as a dividing wall, to heat
features serve as a nest, to block cold winds multiple rooms by direct radiant heat.
yet admit winter sun. Sunlight delivers free radiant heat all
year. Consider a passive solar design that
places the heater mass where it can collect
free sun energy in winter (while remaining
cool in summer). See Chapter 4 for more
A masonry details on energy-wise home design.
heater as a
partition wall Heat People, Not Space
can heat When and where do people want the most
multiple heat? Sitting, resting, digesting, delicate tasks,
rooms. sick or small people often need more heat.
People doing vigorous exercise or sleeping don’t have one, think about how to locate
may enjoy a cooler room, and stored items these items in relation to the heater. It could
last longer in cool, dark places. We try to make the difference in your being able to
heat the living room(s) the most, bedrooms take winter trips without a house-sitter.
and baths second, and the pantry last. But
Chimney Design
there’s a lot of individual variation.
Using an existing chimney can save hun-
Consider what shape of heater your
dreds of dollars and days of labor on a heater
household will actually use the most — a
project. Existing chimneys may need to be
barrier between kitchen and living room?
inspected and possibly re-lined to match the
A big open seating area? A private nook or
new heater — an oversized or very rough
heated office desk?
chimney won’t work well.
Mass heaters are not a furnace or boiler
Chimneys operate on the physical prin-
to heat dozens of rooms, but you can build
ciple of convection. The hotter and taller
in some adjustments. The simplest zone
they are, the more pronounced the draft.
control is a room door that can be opened
If the building is tall, the heater’s chimney
in line-of-sight of the heater, closed when
must be taller, and it pays to keep most of
heat is not needed. The simplest portable
the chimney inside the house where it stays
space heater is a hot rock, brick, beanbag, or
warm. The most effective chimneys, and the
potato. Warm-air vents, fans, cushions, and
easiest to leak-proof, are located near the
removable heat shielding can also be used to
highest point of the roof.
regulate heat delivery.
Some people get excited about the idea of
Hot upper rooms of a house are best
bringing the chimney out the wall instead of
used by people who love being warm, or
the roof, thinking it will make things easier or
who will close the room door before open-
cheaper. After years of experience with both
ing windows.
kinds, we disagree. Issues with structural sup-
Building Considerations port, cold chimneys stalling or backdrafting,
Freeze Protection and leak prevention are all made easier if you
exit as close to the roof ridge as possible.
Plumbing is one major exception to the idea
See Chapter 6 for minimum requirements
that houses don’t need heat, people do. A
under code, and Chapter 4 for installation
more complete list might include people,
advice.
plumbing, batteries, glass canned goods,
delicate plants, baby animals, and electron- Foundations
ics. Such objects don’t have to be kept at Using an existing foundation can save up-
room temperature, but they do need to stay ward of $1000 for a heater project. Many
above freezing. A heater and “wet wall” in of our example heaters (in Chapter 3) are
close proximity, in the protected center of located on an existing slab, even where it
the house, can save a lot of grief. A storage wasn’t in the exact center of the home.
cellar might be a great place for cool-storage If your main room has a suspended floor,
of canned goods and batteries, but if you it may be easier to locate the heater in a little
bump-out addition (like a bay window onto For a more central installation, where
the living room, or a sunroom) where you the existing floor is suspended wood over
can easily pour a new footing. Be sure to in- a crawl space or basement, the standard
sulate this addition extremely well, as your practice is to cut away the floor and build
heater will now have three exterior walls and up with noncombustible masonry footings
may lose a lot of heat. from the slab or ground below. In an existing
building with an intact concrete basement
floor, the footings can be built on top of
that (sometimes with a reinforced spreader
slab). In areas with frost heave, the accepted
best practice is for both house and heater
footings to be sunk below frost depth, and
stacked up from there. The 2˝ air gap be-
tween masonry and wood framing, usually
filled with noncombustible insulation for
firestopping, will allow a little bit of wiggle
room if the house and masonry decide to tilt
different directions in a frost or clay heave.
Building a new foundation below the
floor gives you the option of dropping the
heater lower in the space, for example lower-
ing the bench to make a radiant-heated tile
floor. These sunken heater options will take
some attention to clearances and firestop-
ping, but can offer flexible floor layouts.
Weight Loads
If there’s a suspended wood floor or full base-
ment under the main room, the heater can
be installed in a less ideal heating location
(such as an addition, attached garage, or
even a daylight basement) for easier foun-
dation work. It’s also possible to cut and
reframe a hole in the floor, and build up the
heater on noncombustible footings from the
ground below.
The heater’s mass is considerable (3–5
tons in most cases, or about 150 pounds
per cubic foot), so it is best supported on
solid ground or noncombustible masonry
footings. A 4˝ concrete slab can support design than from thermal mass heating
up to about 30˝ of earthen masonry, plenty (stored heat is wasted after you leave).
for most bench-style heaters. Taller projects The big deciding factor in using a mass
need thicker slabs and may need reinforce- storage heater, compared with other types,
ment — see Chapter 6 for more information is whether the space needs constant heat or
on foundations. just occasional heat. Thermal mass takes a long
time to warm up as well as to cool down. If
Size and Use you are not using the space for more than a few
Smaller buildings and multi-family dwell- hours or days, the delay will be inconvenient,
ings are easier to heat. and much of the stored heat will be wasted.
Large, seldom-used spaces often ben An office where you sit and do delicate
efit more from insulation and passive solar tasks like typing for 6 to 8 hours a day might
Home Energy Checklist

Size/Occupancy: Appliances:
• Core 200-300 sf/person • Maintain or upgrade: furnaces, water heaters, dryers,
• Close or rent spare rooms cookers
• Limit exterior wall exposure (compact design; layers; • Radiant and contact heat (solar, heating pads, radi-
air-locks; storage as insulation; curtains, canopies, ant floors, heat lamps); limit air-heaters and fans
fluffy art) • Keep fuel wood dry
• Controls: Adjust drapes, doors, registers/vents, area
Solar Orientation:
heaters, clothing, thermostats, auto-timers, activity
• Windows to catch winter sun, exclude summer sun
levels
• Insulation and/or unheated storage on shady/windy
Insulation: sides
• Ceilings • Thermal mass (water, oil, tile, masonry) to store heat
• Walls • Solar heat exchangers for heating, cooling, ventilation
• Windows (drapes/layers)
• Floors + crawl space Heating Loads
• Perimeter (foundations, slabs, skirting) Most owners want a heater to:
• Clothing and bedding • stay cozy on the coldest day of the year
• keep the pipes from freezing (over a holiday week-
Weather seals:
end, if possible)
Minimum air exchange at least ¹ ⁄₃ home volume/hour.
• reduce or eliminate their heating bills
• Ceilings, attic hatches
• allow them to survive a power outage or other
• Windows and doors
emergency
• Exhaust fans, outlets, light wells, gaps and holes
benefit from thermal mass heat. A chapel or You can also calculate the theoretical
studio that is only used a few hours each heat loss with an online calculator such as
week might not. the ones at www.builditsolar.org, or www.
My personal minimum threshold for engineeringtoolbox.com, or work it out by
using a mass heater is about 4 hours per day hand. Detailed instructions can be found in
of occupying the space — enough time to Appendix 4. The basic equation to use fol-
operate the heater conveniently while doing lows, using the area of each exposed exterior
other things, especially if there’s some resid- surface, like walls and windows, and the
ual benefit from stored heat such as keeping corresponding R-value or (insulation value)
electronics dry or plumbing unfrozen. of that area.
At more than 8 hours per day, especially
when it includes sleeping, I see thermal mass [(Area1/R1) + (Area2/R2) ... ]
heat as an obvious choice. If the space needs × (indoor temp. – outdoor temp.)
warmth more than 12 hours per day, any other × (time in hours) = BTUs needed
solution begins to look wasteful. Greenhouses,
incubators, and starting sheds may need frost While you’re at it, plug in a few other
protection 24/7 in some weather conditions; options (like insulation upgrades, or lower
so they can be useful places to prototype your indoor temperatures), and see how they
first rocket mass heater. might affect your heating load.
But we don’t want to overpay for an How many BTUs will you get from a
over-sized heater that drives people out of mass heater?
the room. Your mass will store heat from any
Calculating the heating load of a house available source: ambient heat, cooking,
is not quite as simple as knowing its square sunshine, or burning fuel. So you may get
footage. But it may be simple enough to fig- some free BTUs any time the day is warm
ure out, using your old heating bills and/or enough, or when the heater is placed well
a tape measure. for seasonal solar gain using passive solar
Your old heating bill should show therms design.
(100,000 BTUs) or kWh. Your rocket mass The heat available from wood is generally
heater could burn up to 12 lbs of wood per between 6200 and 8700 BTU per pound.
therm, or 4.2 lbs per 10 kilowatt hours. Our (Source: Chimney Sweep’s Library, www.
8˝ rocket heater consumes roughly 20 to 40 chimneysweeponline.com/howoodbtu.htm)
lbs per day to heat our 800 sf home. An 8˝ heater can burn 20 to 40 lbs of
If you’ve been heating with a woodstove, wood per evening, twice that if you can run
a rocket mass heater might use between one it all day, for a total of 200,000 to 600,000
half and one tenth the fuel (one quarter is BTUs per day. 10,000 to 50,000 BTUs per
pretty common, but we recommend stock- hour may not sound like a lot, but it’s sur-
ing at least half your previous annual supply prisingly effective when combined with the
the first year until you can see the difference direct people-heating aspect and the corre-
for yourself ). spondingly cooler air temperatures in the
home. Plus, you get a bit more per hour in If you’re replacing a large furnace, an
those evening hours when you’re there to RMH likely won’t be a stand-alone solu-
enjoy it, which is nice. tion. But it can deliver personal comfort,
Energy Calculations
When calculating the costs of any appliance, there are appliance that is rarely used still costs energy to manu-
two phases to consider: the initial cost to buy and in- facture, and takes up space. “Green” or “efficient” items
stall the appliance; and the ongoing cost of running it do not magically exude worth while sitting unused in
over time. Ongoing costs include power, fuel, opera- the basement.
tion, and maintenance. The embodied energy of a mass heater depends
Payback time is a useful comparison between on the situation. Site-sourced earthen masonry, field-
your current situation and a new alternative. You must stone, or rubble from nearby demolition can avoid the
know the approximate cost of running both old and energy cost of manufacturing and transporting heavy
new alternatives. Don’t forget to factor in your own materials. Re-using existing local resources may take
labor: days off work, or time spent procuring and/or less energy than buying new.
splitting firewood. Embodied energy can accumulate, however. A
portable dwelling (such as an RV or live-aboard boat)
Payback Time = Initial Cost ÷ Ongoing Savings
uses energy to haul itself around. A mass that can be
Example: If I pay $1600 per year to run my oil fur- emptied out for transport (like water tanks) can save
nace, and I expect to pay $400 per year for cord wood energy compared with permanent weight. Low-mass
with a new heater, then my ongoing savings could be and multi-function systems (like insulation and waste
$1200 per year. A heater that costs $3600 for parts and heat exchangers) make more sense in portable dwell-
labor could pay me back in 3 years, and keep saving ings than a solid mass heater.
me money after that.
However, if I only run the heater half the time and
Energy Independence
keep using the furnace for the other half, I might pay In response to cheap fossil-fuel energy, homes have
$200 per year for firewood and $600 to $800 to run become larger, families broken into smaller units, and
the furnace (the thermal storage of the bench may still local economies have largely been replaced by global
reduce furnace bills slightly). I would only be saving commerce. “Independence” has come to mean living
$800 or $600 per year, making it a 4.5- or 6-year pay- alone in a luxurious nest lined with cheaply manufac-
back time. tured goods from far away.
A heater that I never use, of course, will never pay Fossil fuels are a finite resource, however, with
me back. increasing costs of extraction and use. Are we ready
and able to survive without them? True energy inde-
Embodied Energy pendence means being able to stay warm if the power
The embodied energy of any object is the energy goes out, and being able to keep things running with
used to produce, transport, and prepare it for use. An local materials and parts.
off-grid security, and substantially offset reasons too); and consider preheated make-
heating bills, with very little waste. You may up air if you need it.
be surprised at how much less fuel energy Stale air is a very poor way to store heat,
you need, once it’s carefully targeted to heat- especially considering you need to ventilate
ing your most important assets. the house at least one third of its volume
per hour anyway. Radiant and conductive
Older Practices heaters offer better comfort at lower air tem-
The original rocket mass heater prototypes peratures. Lower indoor air temperatures
were built on dry-stacked rubble footings means less heat loss from both conduction
over well-drained, compacted gravel; some and ventilation.
owners continue to use this method for If the home is so badly designed that
low-cost projects in milder climates. It’s im- building an outside air supply onto a
portant to provide excellent drainage around downdraft heater sounds simple by com-
and under the gravel, and keep damp ground parison, see Chapter 6, for warnings and
and frost away from earthen masonry. recommendations.
A few owners have built directly over
wood floors, braced up with extra posts and The Seat Test
piers to handle the weight. (Reasons not to The final test for any heater design is the
build directly over wood floors include flam- seat test, or as Ernie usually calls it, the
mability, code compliance, movement, and “butt test.” How comfortable is it to sit on
longevity. Masonry may trap moisture and the heater? Try it. Test the proposed height,
rot the wood. Sagging or shifting wood could the arm-rests and back slope, the proposed
crack the masonry.) We prefer noncombusti- cushions. Get your sweetie to sit on it. If
ble foundations for safety and longevity. your household won’t sit on the heater,
Put some care into foundations: they’re much efficiency is lost.
hard to fix later. Get your favorite interior designer in-
volved. What social and ergonomic factors
Air Supply could encourage people to sit on the heater?
Short answer: No, we don’t favor outside air Cushions and aesthetics are important to
for combustion. It creates more problems many people. Consider “conversation group-
than it solves. ings” where the heater faces another sofa or
Fresh air is good for you and good for comfortable chair. You could place work
your house. But the fire needs warm air as desks with seat or feet near the heater or make
much or more than you do; cold outside air benches long enough to offer a full-body
can reduce combustion efficiency, especially heating pad or massage table after a long day.
if it also makes it harder to properly control To sum up, a well-designed radiant heat-
the fire, load wood, or shut down the draft er is:
afterwards.
Let the house breathe; fix any negative • appropriate to the household’s heating
pressure problems (they’re bad for other needs and patterns of use
• supported on suitable foundations, with • cost-effective, offering the best long-term

safe clearances to combustibles and a good return for the least up-front cost, for ex-
chimney ample by taking advantage of existing
• located centrally in the occupied space, chimneys or footings when there is no
with line-of-sight to the most-used conflict with overall performance
rooms
• comfortable and attractive, encouraging A 4-ton heater is hard to hide. Make it
direct contact (seating, floors, etc.) a feature.
Materials Considerations
The original rocket mass heaters were made with differently to water, time, heat, and other factors. Each
clay brick and earthen masonry. Traditional masonry type requires specific curing conditions. Read the ma-
heaters used clay materials for their plasticity, ease of terial data carefully, practice, and heat-test your results
maintenance and repair, excellent heat tolerance, and before installation.
thermal storage performance. Modern materials may
be more expensive, harder to repair or rebuild, and Expansion Joints
have more embodied energy. Materials expand with heat. If the hot firebox is trapped
A warning: Portland cement is not suitable for on all sides by the cooler casing, something will crack.
high-temperature fireboxes. We need a flexible material or gap for thermal expan-
All lime-based products, including Portland ce- sion, called an expansion joint.
ment, degrade to crumbling powder in the heat of a With the original design, we simply heat every-
clean fire: 1200°F to 2000°F (600°C to 1100°C). Concrete thing up while the clay-based core and casing are still
can be used in footings and heat-exchange areas, with pliable to create the necessary expansion allowance. If
some caveats (cement stucco is not compatible over there are any cracks, they can be filled while hot, and
an earthen core; concrete is less comfortable than thus stabilized, before doing the finish work.
earthen masonry for seating). See Appendix 1 for more Where it may not be possible to fire the heat-
details. er while the casing is still pliable, build in expansion
Refractory cements are a different option; they joints. Use flexible, high-temperature insulation such
may be used where required by regulators. Based on as ceramic-fiber refractory blanket, rock wool, braided
work to date, we suggest that dense refractories be fiberglass gasket, or even stabilized perlite.
rated for at least 2100°F/1150°C; light/insulating re- Provide a ¹⁄₈˝ or larger expansion joint around the
fractories used without dense lining be rated for at firebox and any square, high-temperature mason-
least 2500°F/1350°C. ry (such as the manifold) and at any metal corners or
Modern refractory cements are harder, stronger, edges (such as access doors).
more brittle, and harder to repair than clay. Strong Masonry insulation dust is insidiously dangerous
mortars can break bricks under stress, complicating due to its fine structure. Keep masonry materials damp
repairs. Each type of cement is unique, and responds while working , or wear a good-quality respirator.
Lifestyle Considerations
At-home Time: A manually operated heater is reason- and are configured for easy start-up and quick heat de-
ably convenient for people who actually live in their livery rather than heat storage.
homes. Active parents, the self-employed, retired peo- Automation: If an area or object needs to be kept
ple, or those who enjoy quiet evenings at home can run at temperature for long periods without an operator
a heating fire without interrupting their lives. A rocket (for example an irrigated plant nursery, institutional
mass heater should be located in a room where peo- housing, or plumbing), consider an automated heat-
ple like to spend time. If you don’t spend much time at ing system such as a furnace, boiler, or electric heat.
home (fewer than 3 evenings per week), a wood-fired Community Operation: A heater that serves more
heater may not suit your lifestyle. people requires proportionally less investment from
Emergency Heat: Owners sometimes invest in a each. Three or four adults sharing one home have
wood heater just for supplemental and emergency more hands for fuel processing and maintenance, and
heat. Firing up a wood heater a few times per week can take turns tending the heater with fewer missed
can save substantially on furnace bills, and keep evenings. Rocket mass heaters can be an important
you cozy during power failures. Unused mass heat- part of heating multi-family dwellings up to 2 stories
ers in an unheated basement, however, are slow to tall. To heat larger spaces, consider a high-capacity ma-
warm up, harder to start, and therefore less reliable sonry heater, or zone heaters for each family.
in emergencies. Will you maintain a supply of dry Multi-function: An efficient heater may not be
firewood “just in case?” Dry fuel is critical for both an efficient or comfortable all-purpose device. People
efficiency and safety. For a true emergency heater, with very small or efficient buildings may want a heat-
consider an easier-to-start, quick-delivery radiant er that serves as many purposes as possible: cooking,
heater, such as a certified wood-burning stove, and baking, heating, and perhaps hot water. It’s important
make sure this heater is located close to the core to note that these heating needs occur at different
areas needing heat in an emergency (plumbing times (for example people want hot water and cooked
wet wall, or wherever the household will gather to food in summer, when household heating is unde-
weather an emergency). sirable). Options to divert unwanted heat, such as a
Occasional Use: Guest rooms, chapels, and vaca- heat-exchange bypass valve, and a heat shield around
tion cabins may need heat only occasionally. In a place the barrel with venting to outdoors, may be useful. A
that is only used for a few hours per week, heat stored better option for serious cooks may be to create a sep-
in mass is largely wasted. The first priority for occasion- arate kitchen or outdoor summer kitchen.
al-use spaces is excellent insulation and passive solar Values and Goals: Even the closest people have
design, which benefit all buildings, regardless of fluc- different priorities. For some owners, a single goal or
tuating use. “deal-breaker” defines success or failure. Families may
Heaters for briefly occupied areas can be more disagree about the relative importance of visual ap-
responsive and less efficient, since they are used less. peal, resale value, up-front cost, ease of operation and
Responsive heaters have thinner walls or smaller mass, maintenance, and energy efficiency. The heaters A
presented here meet several possible goals, including performance (hiding the heater, poor chimneys, height
quick response heat, efficient long-term heat, adjust- changes, extra functions like hot water or cooking that
able fueling, nontoxic materials, and durable built-in operate on a different schedule than winter heating).
furniture. We recommend that the household members agree
Some elements of the heater can be changed on the top two or three priorities, list others as option-
without affecting performance (colors, surface tex- al, and choose a proven design that addresses the top
tures, decorative metal bells). Other changes do affect priorities.
Chapter 3
Design Examples
T he following examples show how

particular owners have designed and
finished their heaters. We have included
wall between living and bed rooms. Look
for multi-functionality — heaters that are
also seats, beds, or well-placed for convec-
rough floor plans so you can see how each tion heating, cooking, and warming food.
heater was placed in relation to the existing Some heaters were placed on an existing
building. These examples are in the northern slab footing, or in a new addition for easier
hemisphere, so the sun is from the south. foundation work, rather than centrally to the
Notice how the heaters tend to be lo- house. The key provided here shows the shad-
cated near the core of the house: in living ed colors that indicate the pre-existing floor
areas, larger rooms, or against an interior type for the occupied areas being heated.
39
Annex 6” Heater photo © 2009 by Kacy Ritter.
Annex 6˝
Rocket Mass Heater
Heater Summary
Heat-exchange Mass:
Duct size: 6˝ ID
Duct length: 25 feet (excluding 20-foot chimney)
Thermal storage material/size/weight: earthen
masonry bench, 30˝ x 7´ and 27˝ x 7´, 6000 lbs
Combustion Unit:
Heat riser height: 47˝
Fuel feed height: 15˝ Site Details
Burn tunnel length: 21˝ Project dates: 2008–2009
Firebox opening size: 5.5˝ × 6˝ Location: Portland, Oregon
Manifold: square brick plinth with metal pipe fitting, Building size: 900 sf
cob and earthen plaster Chimney height: 27 ft
Foundations: existing 4˝ concrete slab
Design Examples 41
Annex 6˝: The attached bedroom with its suspend-

Compact Hospitality Bench, ed wood floor is raised up by an 8˝ step,
Case Study for Permits creating a slight warm air transfer to the
bedroom.
Building Considerations
The building is an attached rental apartment Design Considerations
(an “annex” to the main house), circa 1951. The heater was located in the largest available
The climate is maritime Western Oregon: space, the living room, with line-of-sight
an 8- to 9-month rainy season, occasional to the dining area and a bedroom. The
freezing, near-constant cloud cover, with L-shaped bench design echoes Moroccan
peak cold in the months of January and hospitality divans, serving as both seating
February. and guest sleeping space. Each leg of the
Total square feet to be heated are about L is long enough for a full-sized adult to
900 square feet (sf ). The layout is not ideal sleep comfortably. A sturdy matched bench/
for heating: lots of exterior wall surface area,
no sun exposure, many single-pane win-
dows, constant damp conditions, poor wall
insulation. Even after restoring the storm
windows and adding some insulation,
the heat loss from this many-walled 900
sf apartment might be similar to that of a
square building of 1500 sf.
The existing furnace was tucked away in
an adjacent space, with warm air delivered
through attic ducts. Gas bills were typical-
ly $100 to $150 per month, supplemented
with electric area heaters due to poor heat
transfer. The warm ceiling and chilly slab
floor combined for discomfort win-
ter and summer. Mold problems
were evident along windowsills, ex-
terior walls, and in the bathroom.
In the main rooms, a 4˝ existing
slab floor (grey) served as founda-
tion for the heater. (Even though
the heater spans two separately
poured sections of slab, no shifting
or cracking were observed in either
slabs or heater over the 4 years fol-
lowing installation.)
coffee table can be pulled up and covered Typical burn pattern: The heater typical-
with cushions to create a double bed for ly burns 4 hours each evening, up to 6 hours
guests. in extreme cold snaps (teens or below zero
We chose a 6˝ heater partly due to the lows). An 8˝ heater might handle the same
small space to be heated, partly for space heating load with only 2–3 hours of burn,
concerns, with some thought to cost of or by firing on alternate days.
parts, and partly because the property in- During the shoulder seasons (spring and
cluded many well-established orchard and fall), the heater might be fired two or three
forest trees that produce copious branch times per week. During the hottest months,
wood for pruning. A smaller firebox is very the un-heated mass has a cooling effect,
convenient when burning small pole-wood. soaking up daytime heat for slow release
In retrospect, given the exterior wall expo- during the cooler nights. After the heater was
sure and established mold problems in some installed, we discovered we no longer needed
of the farther rooms of the house, a larger the portable fans we used during previous
heater might have been useful. summers.
Design Examples 43
Bonny 8” Convection Bench all photos from 2011-2012 DVD project “How to Build Rocket
Mass Heaters with Ernie and Erica,” © 2011 Calen Kennett and www.villagevideo.org.
Bonny 8˝
Rocket Mass Heater
Heater Summary
Heat-exchange Mass:
Duct size: 8˝ ID
Duct length: 32 feet excluding chimney
Thermal mass: Earthen masonry bench on
brick footing, 24˝ to 50˝ wide, 14 feet long
Combustion Unit:
Fuel feed height: 16˝ Site Details
Burn tunnel length: 26˝ Project dates: 2010–2011
Firebox opening size: 7˝ × 7.5˝ Location: Northern California
Gap above heat riser: 2˝ Building size: 5000 sf
Gap in manifold: 4˝ Chimney height: 25 ft
Manifold: octagonal brick plinth with earthen plaster Foundations: reinforced wood floor
Bonny 8˝: Air Channels, placement of this heater. The main living
Multi-story House room was on the lowest floor in this build-
Building Considerations ing. The most logical place for permanent
seating (opposite the existing fireplace) was
The building is about 5000 sf. The main
on the same side as the main stairwell doors,
rooms have cathedral ceilings about 20 feet
offering the opportunity to easily circulate
tall. Both wings of the house have “turret”
warm air to upstairs rooms. The southern
staircases to second-story bedrooms and a
exposure was shaded by evergreen trees, so
third-story guest room. The heating season
solar gain was not factored in. (Without the
in northern coastal California has little snow,
shade trees, this bench would receive more
but frequent fog and damp chill.
solar warmth in summer, but not in winter,
The existing forced-air heating system
the opposite of desirable solar gain.)
ductwork was contaminated with mold and
The owners wanted to keep the existing
mildew. The occupants had been heating
hardwood floors in case they had reason to
with a fireplace insert (exterior masonry
remove the heater. They also wanted to heat
chimney) and a small supplementary wood-
the entire house with a single heater, with-
stove in the far wings, using about eight
out using their moldy air ducts.
cords of wood per year. The insert did not
These two considerations combined to
release or store much heat, and the house
suggest a solution from earlier European
stayed uncomfortably cool most of the
masonry heaters: raise the heated masonry
winter.
up on feet or air channels, to allow room
Design Considerations air to pass below the heater. This room air
For once, the heating factors and seat- simultaneously helps to cool the wood floor-
ing factors happened to agree on the best ing, while extracting useful heat from the
Design Examples 45
underside and back of the heater, releasing Cleanouts are hidden behind tiles (such as
warm air for circulation to distant rooms. the octopus tile at front right), or behind the
The redwood back is vented at the top barrel area.
to promote this circulation; warm rising air The occupants still use the insert and
mixes with cool air from the windows, re- woodstoves occasionally, for supplemental
versing the room’s natural convection. The heat or entertainment, but the rocket heater
heated air rises along the same wall as the is the primary heat source, operating every
staircase to the upstairs bedrooms, creating day in winter (typically 4 to 6 hours in the
easy natural heat flow with the opening of evenings, or up to 8 hours when someone is
a door. home during unusually cold weather). The
Of course, the wood floor had to be re- new heater serves as the main heat source
inforced to support the added weight of the for the building. The combined firewood
heater. An 8˝ by 8˝ beam was added directly usage for this heater plus all other fires has
underneath the front edge of the new heat- dropped from eight cords to two cords per
er, supported by four new piers. year.
The presence of small children and fre- This heater was documented in the Village
quent guests, and aesthetic preferences, Video production, “How to Build Rocket
dictated the extent of earthen plaster around Mass Heaters with Ernie and Erica.” Photo
the barrel and the artwork painted onto it with Credit (preceding pages): Calen Kennett,
natural pigments from around the world. www.VillageVideo.org
Cabin 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Heater Summary Site Details
Heat-exchange Mass: Project dates:
Duct size: 8˝ ID 2011–2012
Duct length: 20 feet in bench Location: Okanogan
Thermal mass: fieldstone and rubble with earth- Highlands, Washington
en mortars, 30˝ to 36˝ wide, 8 to 9 feet long, seat Building size: 800 sf
height 19˝ with raised back 48˝ to 60˝ tall Chimney height: 15 ft
Foundations: slab on
Combustion Unit: grade
Fuel feed height: 16˝
Burn tunnel length: 24˝
Firebox opening size: 7˝ × 7.5˝
Gap above heat riser: 2˝
Gap in manifold: 3.5˝
Manifold: two-barrel style, metal manifold form
with field stone casing
Design Examples 47
Cabin 8˝: Rocket Mass Heater above the hot barrel is not wood but Saltillo
Building Considerations tiles in a similar size and color.
The cabin is a compact 800 sf, located In winter, the heater is run about 4 to
at 3500 feet elevation in the Okanogan 6 hours per day, usually in the evenings.
Highlands (pine and sagebrush country near During the coldest three months of the year,
the Canada/US border). As in most north- it burns about 20–35 lbs of wood per day.
ern border states in the continental US, the During shoulder seasons, the same amount
winters are cold, with snow on the ground of wood typically lasts 3–4 days, with the
from October through April many years. heater operated either for
Originally a 24 × 24 foot garage with slab shorter times, or only a few
floor, with a later 12 × 24 addition of bed- nights each week. We often
room and bathroom over a crawl space. All stop firing by May and just
exposed walls, ceiling, and floor have R-30 use cross-ventilation.
to R-40 insulation, and the crawl space has In summer the heater
skirting and insulation. Most windows face is not fired. Instead, it
south for better sun advantage. “stores” the evening cool
and buffers against day-
Design Considerations time heat. Temperatures
The heater is located on an interior wall can be 10 to 20 degrees
between two doors: the entry door to the cooler indoors during the
living area, and the bedroom door. (This is peak of a summer day (90s
not an ideal seating arrangement: anyone to 100°F outside, high 70s
using the bench is liable to get bumped by to low 80s inside).
the door swing, so it tends to collect coats
and hats and packages more than we’d
like.)
The small available space and the pres-
ence of a stout stem-wall on this side of
the foundation dictated a taller heater with
enough volume for three runs of heat-ex-
change ducting. The stone and tile mantle
behind the barrel serves as both heat shield-
ing and additional heat storage.
Local geology provides mainly volcanic
silts, fractured bedrock, and glacially depos-
ited granite. Using fieldstone made far more
sense than importing earthen materials.
Other aesthetic choices include pine trim-
boards on bench and shelf/back (suitable
for hanging stockings). For safety, the shelf
Daybed 6˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Heater Summary Site Details
Heat-exchange Mass: Project date: 2010
Duct size: 6˝ ID Location: Portland, Oregon
Duct length: 15 feet in bench Building size: 120 sf
Thermal mass: earthen masonry and rubble, 11 feet Chimney height: 7 ft
long including 7´ by 4´ bed. Foundation: slab on grade
Combustion Unit:
Firebox opening size: 6˝ × 5.5”
Manifold: brick and earthen masonry
Design Examples 49
Daybed 6˝: Bypass Damper

for Intermittent Heating
The building is a one room, tiny guest cot-
tage in maritime Oregon, about 11 by 11
feet. The project serves as a testing ground
for the owner’s interest in natural building.
It converted an ordinary stud-framed shed
into a cozy retreat with an earthy, natural
feel to it; it has straw-clay insulation, earth-
en plastered interior walls, natural paints,
recycled windows, and this compact, heated
bed.
The heater had to fit in available space with-
out impeding the exit, so the barrel is tucked
in the corner, and there’s a sculpted “berm”
to keep the mattress off the barrel. The bar-
rel only gets to about 200°F at the bottom
anyway, but safety is especially important in
guest sleeping quarters.
Because the “guest shed” may not be
heated year-round, the project has a bypass
for easier lighting in a “cold start” situa-
tion. (See Chapter 5 for cold-start lighting
instructions.) The owners sometimes enjoy
sleeping in the guest shed themselves, and
run the heater about twice a week when the
building is occupied.
Ellie the Elephant Heater: finished bench photo by project owner.
Mediterranean 8˝: Warm Climates

Heater Summary Gap in manifold: 3.5˝
Manifold: two-barrel style; polished upper barrel
Heat-Exchange Mass:
Duct size: 8˝ ID
Site Details
Duct length: 17 feet in bench
Project date: 2013
Thermal mass: cob with fieldstone, bench 3 feet wide,
Location: Southern
8 feet long; seat height 15˝ with hollow wooden back.
California
(Total length, 11 feet)
Building size: About
1200 sf
Combustion Unit:
Chimney height:
About 20 feet
Foundations: raised
concrete footing in
crawl space A
Design Examples 51
White heater with

blue tile: built by
Adiel Shnior, Amit
Pompan, and Nitzan
Isrovitch in 2013.
Photograph © 2013
by Adi Segal, www.
adi-segal.com.
Mediterranean 6˝: building’s back rooms had been added later,

Warm Climates along with a second, shallower roof right
In warm climates, including arid regions like on top of the first one, making it difficult
the Middle East or the American Southwest, to fit the chimney between the complicat-
heating loads are typically smaller, but may ed mess of rafters anywhere but at the edge.
be divided into extreme days and nights. There was just barely room to fit the firebox
Cold-season heating needs may be intermit- between the noncombustible fireplace and
tent rather than steady, with one or two cold the exhaust ducting, with extensive heat
snaps that really call for heat. The occupants shielding (the wall surface of faux logs was
may also want heat for personal comfort removed behind the heat shields to give bet-
even when it is warm outdoors; for exam- ter air movement, which took an extra two
ple as a personal heating pad after exertion, days).
or when coming into a cool house after a
Design Considerations
hot day outdoors. Chimney exhaust does
not draft so well if the outdoor air is also This compact heater layout fits the space
comparatively warm, so mild-climate heat- nicely, and preserves the main functions
ers may need to have extra draft built in for of the room and existing fireplace. A local
successful cold starts. plaster artist did the finish work, adding
In these climates, thermal mass alone will the whimsical elephant face to the arm rest.
increase comfort. Traditional architecture The owners and friends now call it “The
like adobe takes advantage of the great- Elephant Bench.”
est benefit of thermal mass: to stabilize the
spikes between daytime highs and nighttime
lows, for greater comfort even while using
no fuel at all.
For warm climate designs, we prefer a
relatively short, linear bench with a double
run of pipe. Placing the chimney beside the
barrel gives a draft boost during startup, and
it’s also relatively easy to include a bypass if
desired. A bypass not only facilitates starts in
warm weather, it also allows comfort heat-
ing on cool evenings without charging up
the mass, useful when days are too hot and
evenings just slightly too cool for comfort.
Re-framing the floor and adding a noncom-
bustible foundation turned out to be simple
compared with the chimney installation. The
Design Examples 53
Phoenix 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Heater Summary: Site Details
Bench: Project dates: 2011–2013
Duct size: 8˝ ID Location: Inland Washington
Duct length: approx. 30 feet in bench Building size: 1800 sf
Thermal mass: Concrete block and “brick” exterior, with Chimney height: 15 ft
earthen infill Foundations: cinderblock on grade
Manifold: two-barrel style with brick and earth infill
Combustion Unit:
Phoenix 8˝: Masonry Bench Adding weight to any of the various

with Mineral Soil Infill floors seemed likely to cause uneven settling
Building Considerations of the structure. But there’s always room for
another addition. The owner built a cin-
At 3800 feet in the Okanogan Highlands,
derblock footing onto the north side of the
residents expect about six months of bright
living room, and laid out the heater with the
snow, and two to three months of dry
barrel on the east side and the chimney exit-
heat. Local geology is mainly volcanic silt
ing through the north wall.
and glacial till, covered in pine and sage-
Around the ductwork, he dumped sever-
brush (lovely, but not great soils for earthen
al tractor-scoops of local, silty soil, then laid
masonry).
bricks and plywood across the top to prevent
The original structure was a small shed
the cats digging in it. After the addition was
used for camping vacations. Successive addi-
weathered in, the owner partially removed
tions expanded the building into an 1800 sf
the adjoining wall to open the heater alcove
year-round home. The woodstove remained
into the living room.
in use as supplemental heat, burning up to
During the first winter, alterations in-
four cords per year to offset the cost of run-
cluded insulating the little chimney for
ning a propane-fueled central furnace.
better draft, and then replacing it after an
Design Considerations ice dam toppled it. Uneven settling of the
The furnace already occupies the central loose fill, along with the chimney collapse,
place of honor, and the occupants saw no led to draft problems that suggested the
reason to get rid of a perfectly functional manifold and/or pipes might be leaking.
furnace. They also kept the woodstove until The following spring, the owner dug out
the new heater proved itself. the installation and re-designed it, using brick
to create a facade in front and laying the pipes
closer together. Brick is also planned to ex-
tend well above the barrel on the corner walls,
offering some additional heat storage. The
exhaust was rerouted out the gable-end wall
(near the front door) and a weathercock-style
chimney cap added above the ridge line.
The heater is used in the same way as the
woodstove: to offset the furnace bill. It has
reduced the furnace bill by about 80% (one-
fifth of previous). During the colder months,
the furnace comes on about 4 am to keep
the house at 68°F. The heater uses less than
half the wood they were previously feeding
their small woodstove to offset the furnace
use, and is saving a lot more on utilities.
Design Examples 55
Greenhouse 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Cob (earthen masonry) softens when exposed to con- Site Details
stant damp conditions. This bench was used as a step Project date: 2012
to water plants hanging overhead. Location: Ohio
We replaced the crushed pipe, then used brick Building size: 600 sf
and sandstone slabs (next page, right) to create a Chimney height: 15 ft
load-bearing masonry box around the pipe. Foundations: asphalt parking lot
We also reworked both heat riser and chimney for Firebox size: 7.25 by 7.25 inches feed, tunnel, and heat
better draft. We sealed leaks, enlarged flow volume riser; 16˝ tall feed, 48˝ heat riser
in the manifold, and improved insulation around the Manifold: sculpted cob with sandstone cap
heat riser.
The exit chimney was originally horizontal, and
caught a lot of wind gusts from a large building nearby.
We rebuilt the chimney as vertical as possible, inside
the greenhouse for warmth, then made a dogleg out
the end wall and back up, ending above the roof.
Greenhouse 8˝:
Damp-tolerant Detailing
A greenhouse heater can be a great, low-
stress first project. Greenhouses come with
extra challenges, however, because they are:
1) damp, which can cause mold, rot, corro-
sion, and structural problems.
2) poorly insulated and have high solar gain,
leading to dramatic temperature swings,
venting, and air pressure effects.
3) temporary structures which may not
have footings or through-roof chimney
options.
4) often unoccupied during heating hours,
making manually operated heaters less
convenient.
Design Examples 57
Design Considerations
Damp and impermanent conditions argue
against earthen masonry in greenhouses.
The box-and-fill method can be used in-
stead to make raised beds. The box may be
rot-resistant wood, brick, or other mason-
ry. The ducts can be stainless or ceramic for
longer-lasting benches, or cast in place. In
any case, the ducts should be protected from
garden tools with a layer of tile, stone, etc.
Fill can be tamped dirt (subsoil) to add mass
around the pipes below the planting levels.
Some greenhouse owners bury the heating
channels under the floor for more flexible
space.
Cold starts are a routine consideration
for a greenhouse, due to damp conditions
and variable heating schedules. Greenhouses
may also have severe negative pressure due
to unbalanced venting. See Chapter 5 for
cold-start options to boost draft in adverse
conditions.
Safety: Don’t be tempted to vent exhaust
indoors; even the cleanest exhaust is not safe
to breathe.
Option 2: Wood or hardiboard • Heat shield or replace nearby combustibles

planting box • U-turn locates chimney near barrel for
A lower-cost alternative for areas where draft
brick and sandstone are scarce. (180° U-turn • Use 4˝ masonry spacers between box and
pipes give better draft and heat distribution) bench pipes
Considerations for a raisedbox planting • Dirt or gravel fill to 8˝ above pipes, with a
bench: stout divider over pipes (tile/brick/wood)
• Place topsoil or planting trays above
• Allow safe clearances around firebox and divider
bell
Chapter 4
Step-by-Step Construction Example
T he first step in any installation

is planning. All the chapters of this
book are important for planning a success-
exhaust comes out near the bell, into a
manufactured chimney about 20 feet tall.
ful rocket mass heater project. If you’ve

skipped ahead to this chapter, please do read
the rest of the book before doing anything
permanent.
This chapter shows the steps from a fin-
ished design to a finished, operating heater.
We selected a J-style firebox as our exam-
ple installation because it’s popular and
reliable, especially for owner-builders on a
budget.
Our example heater is an 8˝ system; it
uses 8˝ ID (inside dimension) stovepipe,
and brick channels that have the same
cross-sectional area (CSA). The CSA, or
flow area, for an 8˝ diameter system is about
50 square inches.
The firebox is built of firebrick with re-
fractory blanket insulation. The bell and
manifold are 55-gal (200-liter) steel drums,
about 23˝ diameter. The bench has met-
al-pipe-lined heat-exchange channels set
in monolithic earthen masonry (cob). The
59
Foundation work is not shown in our or soupy wet batches of mortar. Most ce-
illustrations. This type of heater can sit ment mixers can’t provide shear mixing
on a 4˝ concrete slab on grade, or a simi- (smearing/stirring) for tough cob batches.
lar noncombustible footing suited to local Very wet cob can be pre-mixed ahead, then
drainage, frost, and seismic considerations. allowed to dry to a stackable consistency.
In the sections that follow, we will tell Rototillers reportedly do OK; cob mix
you what tools and materials you need and can be contained in a pit a little deeper than
what planning and prep work is involved. the tiller’s tine depth. Bobcats or small trac-
We will then guide you through the steps of tors can do both shear and bulk mixing,
building the combustion unit and the ther- especially with a skilled operator. An inex-
mal mass heat exchanger. We will tell you perienced tractor operator may not be able
about “firing in” and give you some ideas to keep the batch together without help or
about finishing. work safely around helpers.
Most able-bodied people can tarp-mix
Tools and Materials
cob at a similar rate as novice equipment
Tools to Suit the Team operators. It’s a matter of preference and
Mixing and moving heavy masonry materi- practice. With due care and good music,
als is undeniably work. People often suggest many people enjoy the exercise.
big tools to automate the cob-mixing pro- The best tools and methods are those that
cess: concrete mixer, rototiller, small tractor. work for your crew.
Effective use of this kind of equipment takes
experience and planning. Building Materials
Sometimes more power just means Unit Masonry:
bigger, faster errors. We rarely use heavy • Firebrick (9˝ by 4.5˝ by 2.5˝) and half-fire-
equipment with mixed work crews, due to brick (9˝ by 4.5˝ by 1.25˝)
noise and hazard. That said, a cement mixer • Rubble (broken concrete, local field-
can work on either powdered dry material stone, or brick, for footings and face)
Step-by-Step Construction Example 61
Tool List
Measuring and Marking: Cleanup and Safety:
• Tape measures, pencil and pad • Safety glasses/goggles
• Masking tape/chalk line • Gloves (rubber/leather)
• Level (plumb line, optional) • Dust mask(s)/respirator
• Squares/angle bevel • Hose/outdoor wash station
• Buckets
Masonry and Mortars: • Broom, mop, rags
• Buckets • Vacuum cleaner (Shop-Vac)
• Shovel(s)
• Tarp(s) Power Tools/Upgrades:
• Mortar trays • Electric drill with paddle mixer for
• Paintbrushes (2˝ to 4˝ size) mortar, clay slip
• Water mister/sprayer • Wet-dry shop vacuum
• Mason’s trowel(s) • Circular saw, hand-held grinder,
b Concrete float tile cutter, and/or table saw with
b Plaster float(s) blades for:
b Paint scraper or corner trowel b masonry (diamond grit blade)
• Hammer: Framing/2# sledge b metal (grinder/cutter)
• Mallet or wooden handle b roofing (site-specific)
• Cold chisels/brick-set
• Wheelbarrow/dolly Experienced operator for all
power tools, especially if using larg-
Metal: er equipment like a cement mixer,
• Tinsnips/heavy cutters tractor, bobcat, or rototiller.
• Crimpers for duct/stovepipe
• Pliers (brake or flat-seamer
optional)
• Hacksaw or grinder
• Screwdriver and bits
• Wrench, pliers, gloves
Wood Work (Alterations):

• Saw (circular/flush-cut)
• Framing hammer
• Drill and screwdriver
• Mortars: Clay slip (or thin-set refractory Earthen Masonry:

mortar)* (See Chapter 2, “Weight Loads” and Appen
dix 1 for more about earthen masonry and
workable alternatives.)
• Clay (recycled pottery clay, raw fireclay, or
A Clean Barrel for the Bell local clay soils)
The bell is steel or stainless steel, airtight, and free of un- • Aggregates: masonry sand or traction
suitable paints and debris. You can approach finding the sand, plus small gravel (¾˝-minus/pit
right barrel in a number of ways: run)
• Straw and fiber for outer casings
1. Get a recycled barrel, such as a food-grade 55-gallon
• Insulation: Perlite base, DuraBlanket
drum. Remove the paint by abrasion, which means
(ceramic fiber/rock wool rated for over
sand-blasting, sanding, or grinding; OR burning the
2000°F)
barrel outdoors. See sidebar, “Pocket Rocket,” later in
this chapter. Metal:
2. Salvage an old water-heater tank or similar cylinder: re- • 55 gallon drums: two matched steel
move all fittings and contents. Taking steps to prevent drums in good condition, clean of paint
pressure explosion, leave one end sealed and cut the and debris
other open. Remove surface paint as above. Interior • Matching steel barrel lids and band-
enamels may be left in place or removed. clamps (food-grade barrels often come
3. Purchase a clean, unvarnished stainless steel drum with clamp-on lids)
directly from a manufacturer. (If varnished, remove var- • 8˝ ID stovepipe (or ducting) for channels
nish by abrasion or burning, as above.) in the following shapes:
4. Commission a custom stainless or weathered-steel cyl- b 1 elbow
inder (or a similar column shape, such as an octagon or b 3 capped T’s for cleanouts (each T needs
hexagon) from a qualified local welder. To maintain per- one matching closure cap — preferably
formance comparable to barrels we’ve tested, the steel uncrimped stovepipe caps that fit over
should be at least 12-gauge, 20 to 24-inch inside diam- the pipe, not into it)
eter, 28 to 40˝ interior height, with airtight construction b 2 straight 5´ pieces and 3 straight 2´
including an airtight lid or sealed top. pieces (or approx. 16 feet total straight
pieces)
Protect the clean, bare metal with a heat-tolerant coat-
• 8˝ ID chimney (measured to fit the struc-
ing. You can use a high temperature paint or enamel, such
ture — dimensions will vary from project
as engine block or woodstove paints rated for 1200 to
to project):
2000°F, but we more often simply use food-grade oil such
b stovepipe/manufactured chimney long
as coconut or safflower oil, and cure the barrel in place like
enough to reach from bench to ceiling
a cast-iron pan.
b insulated class A chimney sections from
For decorative options, see “Barrel Decoration,” in
ceiling through roof
Appendix 6.
b matching through-roof fittings includ-
ing screened chimney cap

Bits and Pieces: • Firebox dimensions: 16˝ feed tube height;

• Braided woodstove gasket — approx. 7 24˝ burn tunnel length; 48˝+ heat riser.
feet for each joint (14 feet to make both All channels 7˝ x 7.5˝ in cross section.
lid and whole barrel removable for main- • Firebox masonry thickness: a total 8˝
tenance access) minimum thickness, includes 1.5˝ to 4.5˝
• Foil tape and/or sheet metal screws for brick, 1˝ to 2˝ insulation, plus outer ma-
duct joints sonry. Total width: about 24˝ OD (outside
• Masking tape and masking materials to dimension) for feed-hearth area.
mark levels and protect nearby walls/ • Heat riser thickness: 1.25˝ brick plus 1˝
floors to 2˝ insulation and insulation cage. Total
• Framing materials (scrap lumber, screws width: 13˝ to 15˝ OD, diagonal 18˝ to
and driver, saw) for floor and roof work 20˝.
• Bell/manifold area: 23˝ diameter barrel,
Planning and Prep 5˝ minimum masonry thickness, mini-
Structure and Proportions mum width 33˝ OD.
• Combustion area total dimensions: Total
Critical proportions include: is about 3´ by 4´, plus appropriate clear-
• Appropriate cross-sectional flow areas to ances. Actual minimum footprint is 33˝
avoid constrictions wide by 45˝ long. Height from footing/
• Correct heat riser height in proportion to hearth to top of barrel is 54˝ to 56.˝
the firebox and flame path. • Heat-exchange bench: Length 10 feet,
• Appropriate length for heat-exchange with 22 feet of heat-exchange channel.
pipes or channels. • Bench width/height: about 30˝ wide by
• Appropriate exit chimney for the build- 18˝ tall. (Two 8˝ pipes, located 2˝ to 4˝
ing — usually a vertical chimney exiting apart, with 5˝ masonry thickness on both
near the roof peak outer sides, gives a bench 28˝ to 30˝ wide
and 18˝ tall.)
Most projects require some adjustment • Exit chimney: Example has a vertical
to fit in the actual space. Slight adjustments chimney about 20 feet tall, extending 3
to the length or shape of the heat-exchange feet above the roof, near the peak (2 feet
mass are often successful; changes in the above anything within 10 feet).
combustion unit often cause performance
problems. Critical proportions are described It is possible to vary some of the lengths
in more detail in Chapter 6. given here. Similar heaters have worked
Example heater dimensions: successfully with bench lengths 8 to 15
feet long, and with 8˝ ID chimneys be-
(All dimensions are ID [interior dimen-
tween 8 feet and 35 feet tall. With stout
sions] unless otherwise noted.)
foundations, you could also lay the return
• Stovepipe and channels: 8˝ ID round pipe, pipe directly above the first run, for an 18˝
or 7˝ x 7.5˝ square, = 52 square inch CSA. wide by 30˝ tall heated mass (that’s about
the right height for a dividing wall, desk, or Clearances, Thicknesses, Cleanouts
workbench). The figures shown here give approximate
clearances and thicknesses compatible with
safety, based on our experience, and our un-
derstanding of US building codes. We are
reluctant to prescribe exact numbers, how-
ever, as each jurisdiction can determine its
own requirements, and it’s also possible to
build a stove roughly to these guidelines yet
produce excessive heat.
When in doubt, a few extra inches of
safety clearance can make the whole proj-
ect much easier and safer. See Chapter 6 for
more details.
Metal Bell
The upper bell generally operates at similar
temperatures to a metal box stove. I prefer
to follow local guidelines for non-certified
wood stove installations; generally about
18˝ minimum clearance to combustibles
when using a heat shield with 1˝ air gap.
With very excellent heat shields, minimum
clearance could be 12˝ from combustible
walls. (See Chapter 6 for more detail on
heat shields.) Adding masonry or earthen
plasters to a wood-framed wall counts as
a heat shield, but does not make the wall
noncombustible.
It’s not that hard to get rid of a combus- builders include an additional hearth area of
tible wall. Either take it out (if it’s not load 12˝ or more around the outside of this ma-
bearing), or replace it with a masonry wall sonry, to catch any popping sparks.
to store some extra heat from the barrel. A
load-bearing 4x4 wooden post can be re-
placed with a metal post, or a masonry pillar
or wall.
The bottom line is you need safe surface
temperatures of any nearby combustibles
once you’re actually running the heater. That
includes wood, drywall (it’s held together
with paper, after all), painted or varnished
surfaces — just about anything that’s not bare
brick or stone. If any combustibles are too
hot to touch (more than about 150°F/65°C),
don’t run the heater until you improve the
heat shielding. Also, try not to trap combus- Heat-exchange Bench
tibles in contact with the shielding where you If there is at least 5˝ thickness of masonry
can’t check the temperatures. Wood or paper around the heat-exchange channels, and
products that bake at low temperatures for 8˝ around the firebox, US/Canadian code
long periods can become more flammable, (IRC R1002) allows a minimal clearance
releasing flammable gases and possibly ignit- from masonry surface to combustible walls
ing at temperatures as low as 200°F (95°C). of a 4˝ air gap. Otherwise, it would require
DO NOT bury the metal bell (or 36˝ clearance. Air must be able to move and
any part of the combustion unit) within rise freely in this gap, carrying heat away
load-bearing walls. Even if they are non- from combustible structures.
combustible, metal expands with heat and Since the bench temperatures typically
will crack surrounding masonry, and a wall remain low enough for skin contact or cush-
is a big obstacle to inspecting or repairing ions (85° to 110°F), some builders just build
the heater. directly up against a wall. The 4˝ is a good
If the bench passes through a wall to heat practical minimum however: in addition to
other rooms, that wall should be non-load- meeting code, it allows you to reach inside
bearing and noncombustible immediately to finish, maintain, check temperatures, and
around the heater. The overall design should clean any fallen debris or intruding vermin;
allow excellent maintenance access to all it reduces heat transfer to walls — especially
working parts of the bench. exterior ones; and is a good width to create
a steady flow of warm air for circulation to
Firebox and Hearth other rooms.
The 8˝ masonry thickness around the fire- If you don’t have combustibles nearby to
box opening also acts as a hearth. Many worry about, the practical structural minimum
for the masonry around the ductwork is chimney offers peace of mind to both occu-
about 4˝ (one width of brick, or a hand- pants and building officials.
span of cob). This prevents lateral (outward) There are huge safety and performance
forces from cracking the masonry around differences between a proper, best-practice,
the pipes, and produces comfortable surface to-code chimney, and a chimney improvised
temperatures in most climates after 2 to 6 or “improved” by an inexperienced installer.
hours of firing. Essential chimney functions include vertical
We prefer to build our benches thicker rise, warmth, heat tolerance, tolerance for
around the first (hottest) section — about corrosive and damp exhaust gases, airtight
5˝ to 6˝ thick — then gradually slope the seals, screening to stop sparks and vermin,
duct toward the surface to give a 4˝ or 5˝ and weather protection. See Chapter 6 for
masonry thickness at the other end of the more details.
bench. Burying the hot pipe deeper and the
cooler pipe less deep gives more even surface Cleanout Access
temperatures for comfort, and also helps We put cleanout access at each 180-degree
with gas flow. turn, and at the bottom of each vertical
drop, including the manifold. The goal is to
Exit Chimney give access to every part of the system with
High temperature (HT) chimney installa- available tools.
tions are generally at least 9˝ from com- Allow at least 1.5˝ open around each clea-
bustible walls (with heat shielding or dou- nout cap for ease of removal, or add a handle.
ble-walled chimney in that area); follow Sometimes metal cleanout covers can get too
manufacturer’s instructions. Class A in- hot to touch; give them extra safety clear-
sulated chimney sections are used for ance where possible (it also makes it easier
tighter clearances such as the ceiling and to get into them when cleaning). You can
roof penetrations. Be sure any insulated or cover the cleanouts with insulation-backed
double-walled chimney sections have inter- tile, or with 5˝ of removable masonry (such
nal dimensions to match your system size: as a fitted tile cover with loose brick behind
8˝ ID (inside dimension), not OD (outside it) in order to meet masonry heater codes for
dimension). reduced clearances.
Even though rocket mass heaters often
have a low-temperature (LT) exhaust, we pre- Location
fer to use high-temperature (HT) chimneys Rocket mass heaters are a radiant heat
as for other masonry heaters and woodstoves. source, and work best by direct contact or
We have seen many owners repurpose old line of sight. Therefore, the optimal location
chimneys for new woodstoves, which can is in the occupied core of the house.
produce unexpected creosote from burn- In real-life versions of our example
ing sponge-wet wood, or the need to get project, the owners defined this core loca-
terrifyingly creative with chimney-priming tion in different ways. In one case, it was
methods. A high-temperature (HT) exhaust in the living room of a log cabin. Another
demonstration project serves as a warm di-

vider in a multi-use barn. Several similar
The most popular place to install a rocket mass heater
projects collect heat from the south-facing
is along one wall of a living room or great room (usually
windows of sun rooms which double as
replacing a sofa).
winter hangout space.
The second most popular place is wherever an existing
Foundations play a major part in decid-
chimney, concrete slab, or new addition makes installation
ing where to locate the heater. In the case of
cheaper or easier.
one sunroom, the existing patio slab offered
a better foundation than the manufactured Other popular options include:
home, simplifying the project. In another
• a heated guest bedroom or reading nook
sunroom with suspended floor, the owners
• a heated divider between living room and kitchen (or
cut a new opening, reframed the floor, and
office)
built up a noncombustible heater foundation
• a heated floor or sub-floor for flexible space
using slab and cement block. The cabin and
• a new bay window or nook addition off the main room
barn sites had compacted gravel or dry, un-
• as thermal mass in a solarium or passive solar design
disturbed grade throughout, so the location
was based on optimal heating of the space.
The flat bench in this example presented
in this chapter can serve as a bed or full- anything that can’t be moved. Sweep floors
body heating pad. With the heater across well before covering with clean tarps or
from a sunny window, it stores solar gain painter’s dropcloths, and tape the edges
and saves fuel. down. (Grit under a tarp can be worse than
The bell is near the center of the space, no tarp.) A cardboard or plywood path in
in line of sight of several room doors. Any high-traffic areas protects floors from gritty
room from which you can see the bell is a wheelbarrows and muddy feet.
room which it can heat. Just outside the project space, designate
See Chapters 2 and 3 for more details on staging areas for each type of material, and
design, Appendix 3 for special situations, a wash station for cleaning tools and hands.
and Appendix 4 for general home design. Never rinse mortar, clay, or any masonry
materials down the sink: they block up the
Site Prep and Cleanup plumbing. A rinse bucket for pre-washing
Construction projects are messy. With ma- saves a lot of water and reduces puddles
sonry, you will have mud, and possibly dust. from hosing off.
You can avoid having to breathe masonry
dust by keeping the mud damp through- Practice Before Starting
out the building process, and/or wearing Dry-stack the firebox (dry = without mor-
good-quality respiratory protection and tar), either in place or outdoors. Draw up
ventilating the space. a full-size template showing finished di-
Remove all valuable or delicate items, mensions, and check the clearances in the
and use plastic or fabric sheeting to cover actual space. Lay out the ducting and check
the chimney connection. Practice with any Always keep the intended finish height
unfamiliar tools and materials, including site- in mind. You don’t want the pipes to end
sourced materials. If using earthen masonry, up too high. It’s always possible to add more
make test bricks as described in Appendix 1 tile or cushions, but impractical and possi-
and allow them to dry. Mock up the bench bly dangerous to make the bench thinner
in the space with planks or buckets to try out than 4˝ over the highest pipe.
the intended seat height. Mark the wall at sub-finish level with a
chalk line and/or masking tape. A line level
Laying Out the System for a chalk line, or a cabinet installer’s laser
We often lay out the system, or mock it up level is lovely here. If you don’t have one, a
in the space, before beginning any perma- long bubble level, or a long board with any
nent alterations. bubble level, will get it done.
The first thing to do is to check rafter In our role as trainers for DIY and nov-
and joist spacing in the attic to ensure your ice builders, we don’t draw the “finish” line
plans are feasible. For a plumb exit chimney at first. This tends to result in ducts, rocks,
and minimal cutting of pipe, you will install or other lumpy materials being laid up too
the through-roof chimney first, then con- high. Instead, we clearly mark the height
nect the rest of the system ducting working of our current task only. First we mark the
backwards from this point. ducting height, and lay and build up to that
Once you are sure you can install the level. Then we mark the infill or sub-finish
chimney where you want it, do so. If the height, and build to that level. We wait to
chimney location changes, recheck clear- mark the final finished height on the wall
ances and other project dimensions to make until we are ready to work with finish ma
sure everything will still work. Lay out all terials such as tile or plasters.
pipes, connected, paying attention to the Mock up the brick firebox. Note the ac-
leveling. Use noncombustible rubble such tual achievable dimensions in case your brick
as pieces of brick or rock to prop the hori- is a different size than shown. Make a card-
zontal pipes in their proper places. board template if you like, showing actual
Aim for a slight, continuous upward rise dimensions using your bricks and intended
from heat source to chimney (see diagram, mortar thickness. Balance the barrel in its
“Thickness variation”). The rise helps ex- intended location. Check clearances to com-
haust move smoothly along the pipe, bustibles (allowing for 8˝ of masonry around
and prevents hot spots and condensation the firebox, 5˝ around the barrel and pipes).
pooling. Once you are comfortable with the spac-
A slope of about ¼˝ over ten feet is suf- ing and layout of the heater, mark intended
ficient — just don’t let it dip back down dimensions on the floor and on a removable
anywhere. Pay special attention to elbows — template or plan. You can move the parts
if they are not exactly 90 degrees you may out of your way (leaving pipes connected in
need a steeper slope to keep them from mak- long sections if you like), and begin the per-
ing little lumps where hot exhaust can pool. manent installation.
Footings/Foundations
Foundation requirements vary from place
to place. Earthquakes, frost heave, expan-
sive soils, local laws, existing structures,
etc., may dictate your foundation type. See
Chapter 6 for more detail. A typical footing
might be a 4˝ or 6˝ slab on grade.
With cob projects (monolithic earthen
masonry), we almost always include a dry
stone footing right under the cob, even on
projects with a concrete slab foundation.
It’s how cob was built traditionally, with
emphasis on good drying conditions rather
than moisture barriers (which can become
condensation traps).
Preparing Foundations Over an

Existing Basement or Crawl Space
If you are building your heater over an empty
space like a basement or a crawl space, you
will have to take some extra steps.
1) Determine heater placement and size.

Inspect for hidden floor beams, rafters
and joists in the through-roof area, and
other factors that may affect heater place-
ment. Calculate the total weight of slabs,
concrete block, brick, or other founda-
tion materials as well as the heater, and
consult code or engineering tables for
appropriate foundation thickness and
reinforcement.
2) For foundation size, add at least 6˝ all
sides, and 20˝ hearth.
3) Brace up the floor from below, and block
the joists in place.
4) Cut a hole through the floor and joists.
The new framing should allow a 2˝ gap
between framing and the sides of the
heater.
5) Reframe the floor around the heater as for hearth) to bridge the gap between
opening, with double or triple headers footings and suspended wood floors.
as required by floor loads, and 2˝ gaps
between framing and planned masonry Exit Chimney
outline. Our sample heater has a vertical through-
6) Build formwork, and pour the necessary roof exhaust with 20 feet of vertical chimney.
foundations. We used a manufactured Class A chimney,
7) Build up to the desired height using non- as for any woodstove or masonry heater.
combustible supports (concrete/block/ The chimney must fit the building as
brick). well as the heater. It should be the tallest
8) Consider including insulation in or element of the house, 2 or 3 feet above any-
below the pour (e.g. as perlite aggregate thing within 10 feet (such as the roof ridge).
in concrete above grade, or insulation Similar heaters have been used successfully
fill in cinderblocks), and beside exposed with chimneys from 6´ tall to about 30´ tall.
walls (e.g. the footing walls within the An existing chimney can be used, as long
crawl space). as it is in good condition and the flue interior
9) After building the heater, use noncom- is the right size for the heater (8˝ ID round, or
bustible insulation and trim (e.g. tiles about 50 to 55 square inches if rectangular).
Chimney Methods: Up or Sideways?

Most combustion devices rely on the exit chimney for their primary
draft. A warm, tall exit chimney keeps the fire flowing properly.
Backdrafts can happen when an exposed outdoor chimney is cold,
or when any combination of winds and house drafts result in higher
pressure outside the chimney than in the room.
Experienced installers locate chimneys near the peak of the
roof, with most of their height inside the house. (For some excel-
lent information about chimney design, see www.woodheat.org.)
These sheltered chimneys stay warm, share more warmth with the
house, are more efficient and easier to operate. Tall, sheltered chim-
neys escape most ill effects of wind gusts and ordinary household
pressures. And they usually cost less than an exterior chimney, once
both are insulated properly.
The building code (IRC R1003.9) describes chimney termina-
tion height as “at least 2 feet (610 mm) higher than any portion of
a building within 10 feet (3048 mm), but shall not be less than A
3 feet (914 mm) above the highest point where the

chimney passes through the roof.”
Ianto Evans’s original rocket mass heaters often
used a side exit like a dryer vent. Unlike box-style
woodstoves, rocket mass heaters with no adverse pres-
sure effects may draw even without an exit chimney,
thanks to the internal heat riser. But Ianto’s own build-
ing designs are pretty unusual. As described in The
Hand-Sculpted House, his tiny Cob Cottage houses are
compact, one-story, earthen masonry cottages with
membrane-lined living roofs. These buildings have
noncombustible walls, no roof vents, and most are in
sheltered woodland settings without extreme winter
temperatures. The house acts more like an oven or hat,
less like a chimney.
In taller homes with roof vents or upstairs windows,
the house itself acts like a chimney. Warm air rises and
pushes out the top; cool replacement air flows in at
the bottom. Wind gusts can cause back-pressure on
any side of the house, and especially around corners
and eaves. In these ordinary conditions, the chimney
opening must be higher than any other holes in the
house — and above any corners such as eaves and
ridge — to out-compete house draft pressures.
For conventional homes, wall exits may seem
cheaper but usually aren’t. They require more insula-
tion ($$$), and may need special priming (preheating),
supports, and water protection (from water running
along pipe into wall, and from ice dams at eaves which temperature exhaust is a seductive dream (low exhaust
can rip a chimney away from the house). temperatures imply less heat is being wasted). We
If a wall exit seems necessary, put it as high as pos- have learned to include a capped T inside the building
sible on the gable (end) wall. The chimney will need so the owner can install a vertical exhaust later. In 90%
clever bracing and supports to reach above the roof of modern buildings, a conventional chimney is the
peak, as well as protection from pressure, wind gusts, simplest reliable solution.
vermin, and weather. (More details in Appendix 3.)
We still experiment with horizontal exhausts occa-
sionally, when the owners insist, because an ultra-low
Notes before doing your own chimney more structural support to secure the lon-
installation: ger, exposed chimney sections against wind
Take to the Heights: Installing higher and weather. Don’t forget that there is effec-
up in the roof provides better draft, is easi- tively a lot more weather to deal with near
er to support using readily-available ceiling the eaves, since the roof is shedding water
brackets and through-roof kits, usually costs and ice in that direction. In snowy climates,
less because it takes fewer insulated sections, chimneys down near the eaves will catch
and involves less overall risk of leaks. big loads of snow and ice, which can rip
If your house has several roof heights, the chimney away if they are not effectively
the chimney should be at least as tall as the diverted by a protective structure such as a
highest roof. If forced to install near eaves, blind dormer or “ice knife.”
you still need to raise the chimney to the This End Up: Chimney sections are in-
same final height above the roof with insu- stalled male-ends-down, female-ends-up, to
lated sections, and you will need to provide catch any dribbling rainwater or creosote-tint-
ed condensation. (Gas and smoke don’t care
about seam direction. Focus on keeping any
unsightly liquids inside the pipes.)
The ceiling collar, chimney cap, and other
parts are all designed for this orientation, and
may be difficult to fit together if the sections
are installed upside down.
Installing a Through-roof Kit

(Example)
Each chimney kit comes with its own instruc-
tions. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Here’s a sample installation, using a com-
mon type of roof kit for asphalt or shingle
roofing.
1. Measure your roof slope and the dis-

tances from your project to the ceiling,
through the attic, and above the roof.
Purchase a through-roof kit suitable for
your type of roof and ceiling.
Slopes are measured as rise-over-run,
such as 8:12 or 10:12. A roof angle such
as 30 degrees would be a 1:2 or 6:12 slope
and 45 degrees would be a 1:1 or 12:12
slope. Get matching parts, including any
necessary sections of insulated chimney, 6. Use a level or plumb line to mark and
a chimney cap, and anything else they cut a rough hole in the roof. Cut the
didn’t include in the kit. hole at least 2˝ bigger than the insulated
If shopkeepers ask for a model num-
ber, you can tell them you are installing
a site-built masonry heater requiring 8˝
ID stovepipe and Class A HT (high- Roof Framing
temp) chimney. Center stovepipe between existing rafters and joists. If nec-
2. Mark the desired through-roof location essary for adequate clearances, cut and reframe one rafter
with a probe through the ceiling, 9˝ from (shown) or one joist. Avoid cutting ridgebeam or trusses.
the wall. (Poke through with an icepick
or long screwdriver with wood or rubber
handle). Don’t stab any electric wires!
From the attic, compare the probe lo-
cation with nearby utilities, joists, and
rafters. Center the hole a safe distance be-
tween obstacles. Avoid any location that
could trap water in roof valleys, or cause
undue difficulties with through-roof in-
stallation, wiring, or other utilities.
3. Drop a new probe from the attic to mark
the intended chimney location. With
plumb line or level, compare this loca-
tion to the heater plan. Check location,
thicknesses, and clearances for chimney
and heater.
4. If there is no clear path between fram-
ing, you can cut and reframe a rafter
or joist. (See lower diagram in sidebar,
“Roof Framing”). Do not cut manufac-
tured trusses or ridge beams. Locate the
chimney to one side instead.
5. After setting the final placement, follow
the directions on the roof kit for in-
stallation. In the top example of “Roof
Framing,” we show how we added cross-
bracing (pale lumber), cut the ceiling
between joists to fit the ceiling box,
and then attached the ceiling box to the
joists and bracing.
pipe, yet smaller than the base of the bracing or guy wires to support the
cone-shaped flashing. chimney if it extends upward more than
7. Connect appropriate chimney sections about 5 feet above the roof.
through the ceiling box, male-end-down 12. Install spark arrestor/screen, and chim-
(keeps liquid condensation inside the pipe, ney cap, protecting the chimney opening
not drooling down the outside). In most from gusts blasting directly down the
cases, you need insulated Class A chimney chimney, sparks, and vermin. Allow
sections for the ceiling and roof penetra- cross-flow from any direction for best
tions, and single- or doublewall stovepipe draft, and make sure the opening and
in heated rooms. Keep attic insulation screen size are big enough for 100% of
away from the pipe. Kits may include an the system cross-sectional area (CSA).
insulation shield for this purpose.
8. Line up the chimney section(s) vertically For chimneys near other tall buildings or
through attic and roof, then fit the flash- in gusty climates, consider wind blockers,
ing/boot around the protruding chimney pivoting “weathervane” or “turbine” chim-
section. ney caps, or H-shaped pipes made from 3
9. Fit the flashing over the shingles below, T’s (as seen on boat stoves).
and under the shingles above. For best Through-wall chimneys are not ideal.
results with some roofs, especially if the (See sidebar, “Chimney Methods: Up or
shingles are easily damaged or hard to Sideways?” and Appendices 3 and 4.)
make leak-proof after disturbing them, However, if a through-wall chimney seems
you may need to re-shingle from the like the best option, put the exit as high as
chimney up to the ridge. possible on a gable wall or near the roof peak.
Note: This is another reason to install You may need two or more storm collars to
the chimney near the ridge line, if possi- stop rain running down the chimney into
ble: it makes leak-free installation much the wall. As with all manufactured chim-
easier. It also tends to reduce future neys, the through-wall should be within 30
problems with wind gusts, ice and snow degrees of vertical if possible, which means
loads, and maintenance. the hole will be a relatively long ellipse. You
10. Use goop from the kit as directed to seal will need at least one insulated adjustable
flashing and roof. (Try not to create dams elbow or 30-degree elbow; the other elbow
that will cause water ponding; smooth may be single-wall if it’s at least 9˝ from
any exposed caulk to let water run off combustible walls and ceilings. Extend in-
easily.) Seal the storm collar around the sulated chimney to the proper height above
chimney. the roof (Step 11 above), and use a suitable
11. Add insulated sections of the same type chimney cap (Step 12).
to extend the chimney to the proper Note that larger number of insulat-
height above the roof (3 feet above the ed sections generally makes through-wall
roof, and 2 feet above anything within chimneys more expensive than the standard
10 feet — including snow loads). Use through-roof — and they perform worse.
Combustion Unit may be 24³⁄₈˝ instead of 24.˝) Alterations

The combustion unit is the hottest area of less than ½˝ do not usually affect perfor-
the heater. Correct proportions, insulation mance, as long as walls remain flush and
and expansion jointing, and double-seal- plumb.
ing to prevent air leaks are critical for good Brick Masonry
performance.
The dimensional goals are:
Brick Base Pad
• Place 1˝ to 2˝ of sturdy, noncombustible
• a 50-square-inch flow area (7˝ x 7.5˝ ID
insulation below the brick floor pad (we
channels)
use clay-stabilized perlite, but acceptable
• a 16˝-tall vertical wood feed (no taller)
alternatives include refractory insulation
• a burn tunnel about 24˝ long (give or take
board, or a layer of insulating brick).
mortar thickness)
• When leveling is needed, use the clay-sta-
• a heat riser at least 48˝ tall
bilized perlite insulation, or a layer of
Note that the burn tunnel length may sand or mortar, to level the brick pad. Use
need to be adjusted for any mortar used, or screed boards (thin dimensional lumber)
if using a different dimension of bricks. (For to quickly create a rough level. Do not
example, 4 bricks plus 3 mortar joins + 14˝ compact the material yet.
(two 7˝ openings) — with ¹⁄₈˝ mortar joins • Lay the bricks to make the floor pad, but
and 2.5˝ firebrick on edge, the new length do not press down. Once all bricks are in
place, use a level to find the proud (too- masonry work supports itself under gravi-
high) bricks. Tap the highest bricks down ty. Mortar just keeps uneven courses from
to level, using a wood or rubber mallet, or wobbling.
the wooden handle of any hand-tool. Also New firebrick is supposed to be perfectly
tap bricks inward horizontally, so they sit dimensional and square, for stacking with-
firmly against each other. out mortar. If there are no irregularities in
• Once the whole pad is level, brush sand the bricks or pad, you can use a thin-set (we
between the bricks to stabilize them. Use use clay slip, a slurry of fireclay and water)
mortar or cob to support bricks from the instead of a gap-filling mortar.
side. If you (or local authorities) prefer a
• Do not allow anyone step on your level pad, hard-bonding refractory, choose a thin-
as it will undo all your work. set refractory product rated for 2400°F or
higher. We prefer clay slip for thermal per-
formance, price, ease of work, and ease of
repairs.
These directions will continue as for clay
slip. If using a different product, follow the
product’s instructions for mixing, set time,
curing time, etc.
If either bricks or pad are irregular, mor-
tar may be needed to fill any gaps and keep
your courses level. Your mortar join should
be as thin as practical; screen the ingredients
before mixing to eliminate over-sized grit.
Firebox Choose a thickness, such as ¹⁄₈˝, and prac-
The lower part of the firebox is all one big tice to achieve it consistently.
rectangle, the bottom of the burn tunnel. See Appendix 1 for more detail on tradi-
Above this space will be the future openings tional clay-based construction and modern
for feed tube and heat riser, and the brick refractory options.
“bridge” that separates them. Standard in-
Preparing Mortars and/or Clay Slip
terior dimensions for this box are 7.5˝ wide
by 24˝ long. Clay Materials
Mark the inside shape of this box on Clay slip is a slurry of water and clay, just
the level pad, using your template again to thick enough to dimple when splashed —
check placement. like a thick paint or runny pancake batter.
Good slip should coat fingers thick enough
Do You Need Mortar? that you can’t see fingerprints. Ten to 25 lbs
Traditional mortar is not brick glue; it of dry clay, or ⅓ to ½ a bucket of damp
is “liquid shims” for raising each course clay, will make about a 5-gallon bucket of
of irregular brick to a true level. Good clay slip. Grate any lumpy clay through a
wire mesh screen (½˝ or ¼˝ hardware cloth

works well) to screen out rocks and speed
the dissolving process. Mix with hands, a
large whisk, or a paint-mixer or stucco-pad-
dle on an electric drill.
Clay-sand mortar may be 3 to 5 parts
sand to 1 part clay slip by volume. Mix thor-
oughly, and add water if needed until a ¼˝
layer will just support a brick’s weight on its
own, but goosh out if you push or tap on
the brick.
Pure clay products have no “curing time”; which would not be needed with earthen
they harden as they dry, and soften again if materials.
re-hydrated. It’s the water and clay together Laying the brick: Before applying clay
that make the bond. Pre-soaking the clay to slip or mortar, wet each brick in a bucket of
make sure it’s fully hydrated often results in water. Dry bricks won’t bond well with clay,
easier mixing and a better-quality material. and can suck water out of refractory mortars
and prevent them from curing properly.
Refractory Cements and Mortars Clay slip or thin-set method: Dip each
Follow the product instructions, including brick in the thin-set or slip, or paint the
how to thin or prepare the mix, and pay care- edges of the brick, just before you set each
ful attention to working times (not the same brick.
as curing time). Prepare modest amounts — As you complete each course, tap any
no more than you can use immediately, and high bricks slightly to bring them level. (You
discard any material that begins to set before will not be able to correct big problems like
use. (Some products are sensitive enough you could with mortar, so keep things tidy
that you can’t mix new material in cups that as you work.)
have older, partially-set material. Have a Mortar method: If your bricks are un-
good selection of disposable measuring cups even, you may need a thicker mortar to
and mixing boards available: you won’t have shim them into place.
time to clean them for re-use while trying to
lay level courses.) • Apply the mortar in an even layer or ridge
In the instructions below, clay slip and under the first course of bricks. Make the
“thin-set” refractory cement products are ridge slightly taller than your final join
used the same way, as a runny coating. thickness, so you can tap down the bricks.
“Mortar” can refer to either clay-sand or re- • When you set the first brick, align it slight-
fractory mortars, thicker materials that can ly inside the inside corner, with room for
fill uneven gaps. If using refractory mor- mortar.
tars, pay special attention to curing times, • “Butter” the end of the next brick with a
and you may need to add expansion joints ridge of mortar, and butt it up against the
first brick. Orient each ridge to provide an wobbling the bricks — it breaks up the
airtight seal — parallel with the joints that mortar seal. If the brick doesn’t tap down
will be visible from outside the wall/box. far enough, you may need to clean it and
• Hold the first brick steady, and tap the reset it with fresh mortar.
second brick into place with a wooden • When each course is done, smooth any
block or rubber mallet. The ridges of mor- scant or bulging mortar joints with a
tar should goosh as you place the bricks, trowel or wet finger.
establishing a good seal, and allowing the
brick to shift into place as you tap. All methods:
• Butter each brick just before you lay it; • Start at one inside corner. Ignore the out-
this keeps the mortar fresh and workable, side corners; they won’t match up. Work
and makes it easier to butter the correct each course in a spiral, butting the inside
side of the brick. corners against the established bricks. (The
• Level each course while the mortar is still spiral layout lets each side have a free edge.
fresh, before beginning the next course. Using this method, we can make pre-
Use a level to check before tapping down. cise interior dimensions without cutting
Sometimes a brick tilts one way yet the bricks. The outside edges won’t usually
course does the opposite. Tap high bricks line up. We generally ignore them, unless
into place. Avoid pushing, wiggling, or clearances are tight enough to warrant the
extra work of trimming bricks.)
• Each course must be offset to avoid run-
ning gaps. Isolated, vertical stacks of
material tend to tip and fall (like Legos).
In all but two places in this layout, a solid
brick bridges over each joint in the pre-
vious course. The layouts show how to
achieve this using a spiral pattern. One
course is laid clockwise, and the next
counter-clockwise.
• The bridge requires two bricks cut to 7˝
length. (The edges of these bricks will
line up with a gap in the course above or
below, making a slight running join.)
• The cleanest way to cut brick is with a tile-
saw or diamond-blade masonry saw. Mark
the cut, then secure the brick on a cutting
surface. Scrap bricks can be used as blocks
if needed. With water running on the ma-
sonry saw blade, make the cut patiently
and smoothly.
• If you do not have a masonry wet-saw Use just enough mortar to level each
on site, you can also use a grinder or course. If the mortar is too thick or wet,
cold-chisel, and sand down any rough you may find that lower courses goosh out
spots on a convenient patch of sidewalk. when you stack the next course on top.
Mortar can fill any little gaps, but closer is
better.
• Sometimes the bridge bricks do not pre-
cisely fit the gap between heat riser and
feed openings. Do not make the heat riser
smaller, or the feed opening larger. The
feed must be smooth and flush to prevent
wood hanging up on protruding ledges. If
adjustment is necessary, either cut a thin-
ner brick for the back of the bridge course,
or you can tolerate a small discrepancy at
the back (heat riser) end in this course
only.
Heat Riser:
• Lay the heat riser much the same as the
first two courses of firebrick, making spi-
rals of brick and paying special attention
to internal dimensions, level, and plumb.
Working the Sunwheel (general method for working to inside dimensions):

Start by guessing one inside corner. The next brick four sides are finished. Check for level. Tap down high
butts up against the previous brick (don’t force your- bricks or build up low areas with a small amount of
self to guess any more corners). As you work, use your mortar, if needed. Then begin the next course, alter-
fingertips to feel inside for alignment with the course nating clockwise and counter-clockwise to stabilize
below. Continue working the same direction until all the corners.
Level the whole stack, then take a break Insulation

until the mortar sets. We insulate around the heat riser and fire-
• Our sample heat riser is half-firebrick box with refractory insulation. For this
(1.25˝ × 2.5˝ × 4.5˝). Alternate courses project, we use ceramic-fiber refractory
clockwise and counterclockwise to offset blanket, available at fireplace suppliers, but
the joints. Check each course while the many builders have also used a metal cage
mortar is still fresh. If a course will not filled with perlite or vermiculite. Light,
level with thin-set, add fine sand and crushable insulation materials also serve as
make a just-thick-enough mortar layer to an expansion joint around the firebox to
make up the level. protect outer masonry.
• Alternative: A pre-cast heat riser can be We carefully wrap the insulation blanket
substituted for the bricks above the bridge around the brick heat riser. Good air seals
course. Set on a ½˝ ridge of fresh mortar. are as critical as the insulation in this area,
Level and plumb, tapping the high side so we try not to bump the bricks too hard
down to correct any problems. Smooth
the mortar around the join for a good seal,
then allow to set.
while we work. We butt or lap the edges of seen ordinary clay brick, the red building
the insulation, and wrap a wire around it to kind that should not be rated much above
hold it in place for the next step. 2000°F, handle this job time after time.)
Around the insulation, we wrap and wire • Ceramic-fiber blanket or board, 1˝ refrac-
together a cage of ¼˝ mesh (to protect the tory insulation (usually rated for 2100°F
insulation during cleaning). The lower sec- or better)
tion of mesh (and blanket) must be cut to • 2˝ rock-wool or high-temperature board
fit over the bricks of the burn tunnel and or batt insulation (various products are
bridge. We use the scrap pieces to insulate rated for 1400 to 2150°F; do not use fi-
the top of the burn tunnel. berglass, which completely melts around
As an alternative, clay-stabilized perlite 1300°F)
is easy to use under and around the burn • 2˝ of loose or clay-stabilized perlite (per-
tunnel. To hold it in place around the heat lite melts around 2300°F, the clay does
riser, we sometimes make a cage of sheet not need to be rated), in wire cage or
metal, or fine wire screen, and pour in the sheet-metal container
same perlite mixture as we used below the • 4˝ of loose vermiculite (no clay) in metal
brick pad. (Galvanized material survives just container (handles over 2000°F)
fine in this area outside the insulation, up to
Not suitable for insulating heat riser:
about 4˝ below the heat riser’s top.)
Clay-stabilized perlite is made by coating • Pumice or porous lava rock — you would
perlite with clay slip. Mix thoroughly to cre- need about 9˝ thickness, which does not
ate a material that will clump together, but fit in available space. Expanded-clay pel-
is still very lightweight. This material can lets and loose dirt are also too dense, so
be packed in self-supporting shapes up to not suitable.
about 12˝ tall, or supported with metal or • Straw-cob is too heavy, and light straw clay
brick courses. can burn out and lose structural integri-
Suitable alternatives: The following in- ty at the operating temperatures around
sulations may be substituted for refractory the heat riser. Some people have reported
blanket: partial success making ceramic insulation
using sawdust and clay, or coal-dust and
• Insulating brick (kiln brick or refractory clay. (Search for “vernacular insulative ce-
light brick), 2˝ to 3˝. If this brick is used ramic” online.)
alone, without an interior lining of dense • Fiberglass often melts at typical operating
brick, it should be rated for 2500°F or temperatures. (Combustible insulation
better. (Due in part to its excellent insulat- such as wool or cellulose is also unsuitable,
ing qualities, the insulating brick may get obviously.)
hotter than 2300°F on its inner surface.
Dense brick conducts some heat away Note About Building Sequence
from the surface, and may stay at slight- The thermal mass and manifold jobs can
ly lower temperatures overall — we’ve be done simultaneously if there are enough
people on the team. If only one or two of us bricks, or stiff mortar) so that there are no
are doing the job, we typically use the fol- combustible supports that will need to be
lowing sequence: removed later.
• Fabricate and seal in the manifold.
• Lay one or two courses of masonry below • Go back and build the rest of the thermal
the pipes, avoiding the manifold area. mass around the pipes and manifold.
• Shim up the pipes to their proper place-
ment. We prefer to use noncombustible Metal Radiant Bell and Manifold
masonry shims (wedge-shaped rocks, spare The manifold in our sample design is a cut-
off barrel, forming an open cylinder that
supports the upper barrel. The height of this
partial barrel is adjusted to actual measure-
ments before cutting and fitting.
If you do not want to use a second bar-
A metal manifold may rel, it is also possible to build the manifold
be cut to fit around the from masonry.
firebox (top) or a masonry The upper barrel needs a sealed top and
manifold can be built open bottom. We generally use the remov-
(brick and mortar able top lid as the barrel top, and cut out the
example, below). bottom, for ease of cleaning. Other types of
barrels (or a damaged surface) may dictate
which end is cut away and which end be-
comes the top.
All metal parts must be clean of rust and
debris. For bell and metal manifold parts
reclaimed from scrap, any ordinary paint
or varnish must be removed (by sand-blast-
ing or burning in a hot outdoor fire). The
“pocket rocket” described in Evans/Jackson
(and reproduced here in the sidebar) is an
effective way to burn off the paint with min-
imal toxic smoke.
After cleaning, the barrel may be coat-
ed with a high-heat cooking oil, or painted
with a high-heat enamel rated for 1200°F or
hotter, to discourage rust.
Once you have your barrel:
• Using plan drawings as a guide, verify

actual measurements. The simplest and
Pocket Rocket
The “pocket rocket” can help get all the paint off a re- inches of the bottom; this forces the heat down, makes
claimed metal barrel. Not only does it clean a barrel of the fire blast harder, and reduces smoke output.
paint, but it is a proof of concept for a downward-fed Light a fire in the bottom of the feed tube, and if
fire. needed, blow down the tube to start the draft going
To minimize toxic smoke, we first wrap the barrel in the proper direction (down the feed and up the chim-
damp insulation (clay-dipped paper works especially ney). A few sticks of wood should get the barrel hot
well) and then prop it up on bricks in a wide, fire-safe enough to burn away the paint; you’ll know it’s done
area. Most of the insulation will char and fall off while when the insulation starts to burn through and fall
burning, so 5 or 6 feet of clear space on all sides of the away, revealing red-hot metal beneath. Once it cools,
barrel is ideal. we use a scrub brush or handfuls of wet sand to remove
From an extra lid or piece of sheet metal, make a the remaining clay and any powdery paint residue.
cover with a stovepipe fuel feed going down into the The term “pocket rocket” and this general meth-
barrel and a chimney about the same size coming up od were first documented in the Evans/Jackson book
and out. The fuel feed should come within about 3 or 4 Rocket Mass Heaters.
most accurate method, if space allows, is You can also calculate the height needed
to make a 2˝ spacer from wood or brick, using a tape measure, as long as you are
and carefully suspend the upper barrel on careful to measure from the inside of the
the finished heat riser rim. Measure the re- barrel lid (not the rim).
maining height to the brick pad, and cut We prefer to use the original bottom of
the lower barrel to make up this height. the manifold barrel as its new top surface,
for two reasons: first, the rims fit better needed, or build up heat riser rim slightly
this way. The bottom rims of most bar- using mortar or cut brick pieces. This is
rels are slightly smaller than the top rims, a good time to make a sloping lip on the
allowing two rims to fit into the same heat riser, to shed fly ash.
band-clamp that was used to hold the lid • When fit is correct, mark the placement
on one barrel. Second, we can use extra on the brick pad. Paint the pad and metal
material from the bottom of the barrel to surfaces with clay slip where they will
gain a more secure fit. When you cut out meet. Lay about 2˝ of mortar bedding
the bottom, make the cut about 2˝ from on the brick pad to receive the manifold
the inside of the rim, and hammer the re- piece. Without pushing down yet, slide
maining material up to create an inside lip the cut barrel in place, fitting all sides
to support and guide the top barrel. carefully.
(As an alternative to using a metal mani- • Level and plumb, tapping the high side
fold liner, you can form an airtight, hollow down to correct any problems. If shims
base of the appropriate height using brick, must be adjusted, make sure to reseal
adobe, or cob.) the mortar (reset with fresh mortar if
• Using actual firebox exterior dimensions, necessary).
cut the manifold to fit around the terraced • Smooth the mortar up against the sides
bricks. Allow up to ¼˝ extra clearance like caulking. Add up to 5˝ of mortar or
rather than disturb the mortared bricks. a course of masonry around the manifold
Test-fit the manifold gently; re-cut where base at this point if available.
needed for an easy fit. Insulation blanket, • For the upper barrel with removable lid,
woodstove-door gasket, and/or mortar install gasket in lid (between lid and rim),
can be used to fill any too-large gaps. and clamp lid on with band-clamp. All
• Mark and cut the ducting hole, and a materials in this area should be heat toler-
cleanout port if desired. Tab and fit 8˝ ant to above 800°F.
ducting to these holes, minimizing any • To make a removable upper barrel, join
protruding edges. Using an 8˝ T as the the two barrels with the band-clamp from
first piece provides cleanout access with the second lid, with a woven woodstove
minimal cutting work. (If building a ma- gasket tucked inside. Make sure barrels are
sonry manifold, this T can be embedded seated in perfect alignment before clamp-
in mortar between courses.) ing. Foil tape may be used at this lower
• When the manifold barrel is ready to join (working temperatures 250–300°F)
place, test-fit with upper barrel again to to temporarily seal the barrels before
confirm the proper 2˝ gap above finished clamping.
heat riser. If lower barrel is too short (e.g. For permanent barrel placement, seal
actual heat riser is taller than planned due barrels by welding, bolting, or with clamp
to mortar), use masonry shims to raise and gasket, as above.
up the manifold and barrel to the proper (Alternative: If using the masonry meth-
height. If lower barrel is too tall, re-cut as od, set the barrel to its proper height with
mortar and/or shims, then bed in earthen but this patching process is not as effective
masonry 2 to 4˝ above the barrel’s lower with modern refractory materials as with
rim.) earthen finishes. See chapter 5 for repair
• While earthen masonry is still pliable, methods.
test-fire the system to make sure that the
proportions are working as expected, and (Many builders have built their mani-
to create the thermal expansion tolerance fold with masonry instead of using a second
around the embedded metal rim. metal barrel. Sculpting a spacious manifold
If the system will not be test-fired until from cob is a special skill which is hard to
later due to refractory curing or other convey in writing. It’s easier to follow how to
reasons, you may create expansion joints build a hollow brick plinth, either square, or
now by wrapping the entire firebox and roughly octagonal/round. An example brick
the metal manifold in scraps of refracto- manifold is shown in the photos above.)
ry insulation, woven fiberglass gasket or Exit chimney and heat-exchange pipes
ribbon, or a similar flexible, heat-resis- should be laid and set to their proper slope.
tant material at least ¹⁄₈˝ thick. Expansion (See the diagram here). We work backwards
cracking can also be patched later, by fill- from the through-roof or through-wall
ing the cracks (at their widest) while hot, opening because the appropriate exit spot is
Materials Properties
Good conductors soak up and transfer heat. Good in- • Light earthen masonry (straw cob/adobe with straw),
sulators do the opposite — they prevent conductive light concrete
heat transfer. • Pea gravel, crushed rock
The goal with mass heating is to conduct most of • Dry dirt (loose soil), pumice, sand
the heat into the mass for storage, while protecting • Insulation concrete (cement-perlite, cement-sawdust)
critical differences in temperature with insulation. • Wood ash (loose)
• Vermiculite
Best Heat Storage to Best Insulation:
• Rock wool (board or batt)
• Water, wet dirt (mud) • Fiberglass, combustible fiber insulations (not for
• Soapstone high-heat use)
• Granite, basalt, obsidian, • Perlite (clay stabilized)
• Brick, clay • Perlite (loose)
• Dense earthen masonry (thermal cob) • Refractory ceramic blanket/board
• Dense concrete
usually constrained by joists and rafters; it’s or noncombustible masonry rubble. Keep
easier to get a nice, straight, vertical chim- supports an inch or so away from seams for
ney, with fewer elbows and cuts, if you work better airtight seals. We usually cut a custom
from the exit toward the unfinished bench. connection to the manifold, being careful
Seal the heat-exchange pipes, working to minimize protruding screws and sharp
from the exit point back toward the man- edges that could snag someone while they are
ifold. Three sheet-metal screws per joint, cleaning the heater.
and/or a layer of high-temperature foil tape
will help keep the pipes from separating Cleanouts
while you work. (“High temperature” in The cleanout access points should already be
this case means it’s rated for about 300°F, in place as T’s; now it’s time to add their
unless your hardware store stocks the “good caps. We prefer stovepipe caps, which fit on
stuff” rated for 500 or 600°F.) A telescoping the outside of the cleanout opening (crimp
section on the chimney, between the bench the opening of the pipe slightly, if needed,
and the ceiling box, may be useful to create to fit the cap). We avoid crimped ducting
flexibility (for thermal flexing, frost heave, caps, as they do not seal well and can be dif-
or building settling) and future mainte- ficult to remove for annual cleaning.
nance access. All cleanouts and any other working
While sealing, check for combustible parts (such as the clamp for the removable
shims, and replace them with mortar bedding barrel and lid) will need clearances around
them for fingers or tools to access the parts. The original, most popular method for
If desired, create removable formwork building comfortable and affordable benches
(from cardboard, plastic-lined rope, or rags) is wet-formed earthen masonry, or “cob” (see
around these areas to hold the space during Appendix 1). Cob is a clay-based concrete,
construction. (Wooden formwork can cause mostly sand and gravel aggregates with about
cracking in the masonry, and may create dif- 10–20% clay. It is easy to shape around the
ficulties planning for its later removal.) pipes with minimal fuss and formwork, and
Pay special attention to barrel and eliminates the need to cut or dress masonry
manifold cleanouts — these are the most units. It holds heat very well — better than
frequently used (for annual maintenance), concrete, weight for weight — and is gener-
yet it’s critical to avoid air leaks in these ally nontoxic and easy to use.
areas. If the cap seems loose or the crimps on The only times we do not prefer cob
the duct are visible, you can install braided is when the project is expected to remain
woodstove-door gasket inside the cleanout damp throughout its working life (such as
cap for a better airtight seal. a greenhouse) or there are no suitable ma-
terials available locally — when a site has
Thermal Mass no access to mineral soils, or local soils are
Surfaces close to 100% silt. In these cases we may
The surface of the bench may be brick, suggest using another type of masonry: ei-
stonework, or earthen masonry to be plas- ther a casing of unit masonry (like stone or
tered later. All masonry materials (including brick) with a tamped-earth infill around the
decorative finish materials such as tile, slate, ducts, or solid masonry of your choice.
or finish plasters) can be counted toward the With unit masonry casings (like brick
final thermal mass thickness. or dressed stone), it’s often easiest to build
the casing first, with cleanouts in place, then ducting and next course. Build up 1˝ of
fill around the pipes to bed them in cob or fine earthen mortar around all ductwork,
tamped earth. to double-seal and protect the ducts. (If
any shims have a sharp edge against the
Cob Method pipes, replace them with mortar as you
• Mark out the intended finish or sub-fin- work.)
ish dimensions on nearby walls (for areas • Continue filling the core with masonry
where finish plasters or tile will be added rubble and cob/mortar in courses. When
later, allow ½˝ to 1˝ for finish plaster). time allows, we work about 6˝ courses
• Formwork can be used to set critical faces, and allow drying time in between. If time
like holding the back of a bench away is short, we keep the cob quite stiff (like
from the wall for the 4˝ air gap. However, putty) with minimal moisture, to build
remember that earthen masonry does not 12˝ to 18˝ lifts per day.
set until moisture evaporates; damp-proof • At the end of the day, leave the unfinished
formwork will result in a project that dries core rough, with holes or dimples to speed
very slowly. drying and create “keying” points to join
• Lay any facing stone/brick that will be vis- the next layers. To add new material onto
ible along the front edge. dry material, brush away any loose debris,
• Keep cob out of contact with damp and moisten the dry material with water
ground, and check slabs for damp (lay or clay slip for good bonding. Keep all
a sheet of plastic on the pad overnight, masonry materials slightly damp while
and check underneath for trapped mois- working, for better bonding and less dust.
ture the following morning). When in • Make sure to build up evenly on all
doubt about the effective dryness of the sides of the duct to prevent punctures or
footings (which is nearly always), we lay squashing. Do not cover the top or fill
a first course of dry masonry to provide between the ducts until the outer walls
some drainage/ventilation under earthen beside them are built up. We prefer to
materials. Puzzle-piece together any large leave the pipes visible to prevent acciden-
pieces of rock, concrete rubble, brick, or tal crushing, until we have enough cob or
other suitable materials to fill the space, stone ready to build a single layer 2˝ to 3˝
using no mortar below or in between. thick over the top of the ducts. The side
Keep the outline tight, using mortar if walls and top act like an arch, supporting
needed around the outside edge, to dis- weight without crushing the duct. On a
courage rodents or other pests from taking busy work site, we often put planks or
up residence. Fill any gaps in this dry foot- plywood “spreaders” over the ducts once
ing course with rock, rubble, and large they are covered in wet masonry, to pro-
gravel, until there are no gaps larger than tect them from accidental damage until
about ½˝. the cob hardens.
• Spread cob/earthen mortar over the • The full, final thickness can be added now
dry masonry base to make a bed for the (5˝ to 6˝ total above the pipes), minus any
thickness reserved for finish plasters or tile to fire the heater while the earthen material
work (usually about 1˝). We often work is still flexible, you may want to include ex-
from a level line along the wall, build up pansion joints (as mentioned above during
a perpendicular spine of level cob at the manifold construction). Critical areas in-
intended sub-finish height, and then fill clude all edges where metal parts are buried
in the surrounding areas to match that in the masonry; and around the firebox
level. The sub-finish surface is usually left where temperature differences are largest.
rough (allows faster drying and better at- Flexible insulation, braided fiberglass gas-
tachment of finish plasters); within ¼˝ of ket, or other flexible and non-flammable
level is good enough. materials laid along the edges and corners
• Allow the core to dry completely (usually create the necessary “give” between dissimi-
1 to 2 weeks). The surface will dry soon- lar materials or temperatures.
er, but moisture continues to wick from
inside. It is dry enough to finish when no Test-firing
more dark patches are visible, and the sur- For earthen masonry heaters, test-fire while
face is no longer cool to the touch. Fans the heater mass is still wet. This test with
and test-firing the heater will speed drying. a cold wet mass (typically during summer,
as it’s the popular building season) will be
Some moisture from combustion unit
the most difficult draft conditions the heat-
mortars and condensation usually finds its
er is ever likely to experience. A successful
way out through the heat-exchange chan-
wet test predicts even better draft perfor-
nels. “Drooling” usually stops once the core
mance in winter conditions, with leeway for
is completely dry and warm. We fire the
minor issues like storm winds or neglected
heater up before completing the finish work
maintenance.
to dry the core, set the pipes and barrel (in
Follow cold start procedures outlined
lieu of expansion joints), and make sure ev-
in Chapter 5. Wet insulation material
erything is working properly.
may temporarily cause excessive steam and
Firing-in the Whole Mass smoke, or balky draft. Some refractory in-
sulations are stabilized with rice starch; this
Refractory vs. Earthen Masonry burns out and makes black, sooty smoke
Many modern refractory materials do not in the exhaust over the first several firings
tolerate “wet-firing” — it can cause poor (each time the system reaches a new high
curing or steam spalling (small steam explo- temperature, more soot burns away).
sions that blast chunks of material loose from
the surface). Earthen masonry is forgiving Performance Goals
enough to tolerate wet-firing, and we use this A test-fire under the above conditions is suc-
method to allow for later thermal expansion. cessful when the barrel heats up quickly; the
If using modern refractories or other rigid system drafts properly (fire is drawn down
masonry materials that require a longer cold the burn tunnel toward the heat riser); and
cure before firing, or if you will not be able smoke clears (white or clear exhaust) within
3–5 minutes of lighting, except as noted for are available rated for 1200°F; engine-block
starchy insulation. paints rated for 2000°F are available in
For cold-climate heaters, the exhaust at many colors).
the exit chimney is about 100°F (may run For optimal radiant heat and nontoxic
115–150°F once dry). Heaters that are used maintenance, we prefer a weathered-steel
only occasionally, used in mild weather, treatment. Clean the barrel thoroughly (see
or that may routinely be operated while the “Pocket Rocket” sidebar earlier in this
damp would have shorter pipe runs and chapter), allow to dry, then coat with any
a higher exit temperature (see Chapter 6, cooking oil, like you would a cast-iron skil-
“Channel Length, Chimney Design, and let. Some people like to use their well-cleaned
Temperature”). barrel top as a griddle.
Failure Points Masonry Finish Work

If the heater backflows, smokes, or does not Casing
draft well, try the following: Please note that suitable finish materials
must be compatible with surface tempera-
• Use cold start instructions from Chapter
tures (high around the combustion unit,
5 — prime the chimney, etc.
lower in the bench area), and with the sub-
• Check for blockages — in manifold area,
strate (softer finish materials over earthen
firebox, and cleanouts; masonry may have
masonry, harder stuccos over cinderblock or
dropped into the channels.
cement).
• Run the calculations from Chapter 6;
Compatibility between earthen, Portland
check that the firebox proportions, chan-
cement, and refractory masonry is discussed
nel length, and chimney height are correct.
in Appendix 1. (There are known problems
If the heater overdrafts, that is, if it sucks with mixing certain types of materials in
up tinder and kindling so fast that paper certain situations.)
won’t stay in the feed area during wet test-fir- We do find that earthen materials are
ing on a warm day, draft may be excessive more comfortable for seating than cement
during cold weather. Consider lengthening or stone; the “give” is slight but makes a dif-
the heat-exchange duct if possible. For fur- ference to tired joints over time. Wood trim
ther details, see Chapter 5’s troubleshooting and cushions can also be used where surface
section and Chapter 6’s rules of thumb. temperatures are appropriate.
Finishing Plaster Casing over Cob Core
Barrel and Exposed Metal Plasters can be made of the same clay-based
Do not paint galvanized or sheet metal duct- minerals as cob, but sifted finer and with
ing to look like stovepipe — this creates a added fiber or binders according to the
safety hazard for future owners and builders. desired effects. Or they can be made with
Barrels and exposed pipe can be coated breathable natural materials such as lime or
with high-temperature enamels (stove paints gypsum plasters. Mica, rice hulls, or other
“glittery” materials can be included for vi- For facing stone laid at the same time as
sual texture if the finished plaster will be the bench, lay the outer casing in courses
burnished and unpainted. along with the earthen core. Work from the
bottom up, with three main goals: stability;
• Moisten the dry core with water or clay a nice flat facade; and finally, attractive dis-
slip. tribution of your available stones.
• Patch any cracks with dense cob (plenty Masonry made of natural rock requires
of sandy aggregate), ripping out loose ma some extra care to create stability. Here are
terial if needed. some of the details you’ll need to consider.
• We prefer to lay a fiber-rich scratch coat
to toughen the seating surface, and key • Three points: Rest stones flat at the base,
into the cob core. Apply a straw-rich cob or fit them where they are cradled by three
with relatively small aggregate (¼˝-minus points of contact (no teetering). Mortar
or rough sand), or a rough earthen plaster and wedges can help, but they will fall out
with 1˝ or longer fiber. more easily than large stones. If the stones
• Allow this scratch coat to dry leather hard. are laid so they would be stable without
Trim or fill any uneven parts. mortar, the work will be more stable and
• Add a finish layer of fine-sifted earthen durable. Mortar is used for mouse bar-
plaster or lime plaster. If you have leftover riers, chinking, heat conduction, and as
clay-based plaster, especially if you have “liquid shims”; not as “rock glue.”
created a special tint or texture, make “bis- • Wide side down: Lay stones on their wid-
cuits” of dried plaster mix and store them est side, so that they are wider than they
with household paints and trim scraps for are tall. Avoid standing rocks on edge.
color-matching touch-ups. • Face work: The bench face should be plumb
(straight up and down), or the seat should
Stone or Tile Facing Work hang out over the base a little. (Recessing
Earthen masonry can support thin tiles or the lower front of the bench slightly allows
mosaic work, but its bond is not strong people to get their heels under them when
enough to glue large slabs of facing stone standing up.) Some builders use a string line
in unstable orientations. If a stone finish is to check that rocks or bricks stay roughly
desired, it should be built up at the same in line.
time as the core of the mass, like a stone • Get it even: Courses should be level, or
casement wall, with individual stones laid slightly tilted toward the mass (you are
in stable orientation. We usually build stone building an arch around the pipes, so
or brick facades at the same time as the core, it’s OK to lay the stones a little bit like a
in courses. keystone arch, as long as the front of the
Stone slab can also be placed on the top bench stays in line). Avoid leaving a slop-
of the bench, as long as overhangs do not ex- ing surface like a mountain landslide; you
ceed about 3˝ (or 25% of the stone’s width) won’t be able to place the next stone with-
of unsupported stone. out it sliding off.
• Coursework: Avoid running joins (ver- that would keep your top slabs or tile from
tical cracks that line up through several setting flat. Lay a thick bed of mortar. If
courses). Bridge gaps in a lower course by you like, use a cement trowel or rake to
laying a stone in the next course across the create ridges for easier leveling. Make sure
gap. Use small stones or wedges as need- the slabs are clean; some materials benefit
ed to match levels and support the next from being damp before they are set. Set
course. the slabs on the bedding, then tap down
• Stretchers: Bridge from the face work any proud corners to level the seat.
back into the main bench using long • Keep it clean: Wash stonework with a
stones set with their short ends out. This damp rag as you go along, or as soon after
braces the facade against tipping. mortaring as practical. It may take several
• Faking it: Where the available rocks won’t passes to completely remove mortars. Clay
do the job, you can cheat. Cut a rock to mortars can be cleaned at any point in the
the shape you need, cement several rocks future, but tidy up immediately if using
together, or sculpt a fake rock from plaster chemical-set mortars like lime, refractory
(later on). Some masons use epoxy to glue cement, or Portland cement.
anchor points to flat rocks, so they can be • Mind the gaps: You will inevitably end
set more deeply than the rock’s natural up with some gaps between the stones. A
shape would allow; just don’t do this right tinted finish plaster or breathable grout
near the hottest areas (firebox to manifold (lime, fine clay/sand/fiber) can be used
cleanout). to fill gaps and create consistent, col-
• Think about critters: Ensure there are or-matched joints. Pointing (the name
no holes or crevices to attract pests. Make for the decorative finish layer of mortar
any intentional air channels large enough in brick or stonework) covers any rough
for a vacuum hose or other cleaning tools, spots and stabilizes the stones, like grout
or a hunting cat (about 4˝). Removable does for tile. Re-pointing may be needed
screens or slatted vents may be used to occasionally if your stonework was less
exclude pests. Any small gaps should be than stable, or if the stone face is exposed
too small for lost pencils or noisy vermin to weather, thumps, and bumps.
(<¼˝). • Make it shine? A light coating of oil (lin-
• Showing off: If placing a favorite rock seed or cooking oil) can give an attractive,
before plastering, make sure it sticks out wet luster to facing stone, but should only
“proud” to match the final finish sur- be added after pointing and cleaning are
face. Smaller, lightweight rocks (up to ½˝ complete. Waxes that are applied hot are
thickness, or about 1 lb) can be set like not a good option, since they will melt
tiles into the finish plaster, especially if again when the bench gets warm.
they have rough backs or beveled edges
that can grip the plaster. For Thin Tiles or Mosaic Work
• Top slabs: Work to a sub-finish layer; Tiles of ¼˝ to ½˝ can be used with earthen
make sure there are no stones sticking up finishes, bearing in mind that they will trap
moisture and should not be added until the corduroy-like texture to aid in leveling
bench is completely dry. Take your time to tiles). Place the tiles as desired, waiting
find the right tiles and plan out their place- until a section is placed before tapping in
ment: sometimes, a strip of tile detailing any proud corners. Work any plaster areas
is more attractive than a completely tiled between the tiles with a smooth float or
surface. tile.
• Once the tile areas have set firm, return
• Complete the rough coat and leveling as to areas between adjacent tiles and fill
for earthen plasters, above. the spaces with grout. Wipe off promptly
• Lay out the tiles or design you wish to use. with a wet finger, flexible silicone or rub-
A breathable, compatible backing (such as ber scraper, or damp rag.
string or burlap) can be used, but avoid
plastic backings if possible. Mark out Wood Trim
placements, and remember that corners We have used wood trim successfully on sev-
and edges may be affected by thickness of eral benches (see the Bonny 8˝ and Cabin 8˝
added material. Smaller tiles with more designs in Chapter 3 for examples). We have
grout space are more breathable, and thus also helped other builders create some pro-
more compatible with earthen masonry. totypes using wood boxes around the entire
Tiles can also be set into plaster, with the thermal mass (see Appendix 3). However,
plaster forming the main coating with a we have also seen charred or burning wood
tile accent. in some prototypes, especially near the in-
• Make a smooth finish plaster or mastic tense heat of bell or firebox.
to use under and around the tiles. Do We recommend test-firing the almost-
not use synthetic or vapor-barrier mastic finished heater in realistic conditions before
over earthen masonry. Breathable miner- adding wood trim, and using wood trim
al grouts include lime putty, finely-sifted only in areas that are known to maintain safe
earthen plaster, or a fine lime-sand grout. temperatures in a particular heater’s actual
Synthetics and oil-based grouts should not operation.
be used, as they may not be heat-compat- Masonry thickness of 6˝ (or more)
ible. Grouts like these (or cement-based should separate wood trim from heat-ex-
products) that trap moisture within the change channels. Wood trim should not be
bench can lead to blistering and loosening used in the clearance areas around bell and
of tiles. fire hearth.
• Prepare a breathable, wipe-on mineral Test-fire the heater several days in a row,
grout for filling joints later if laying contin- until it is completely dry, checking that
uous tile or mosaic. the sub-finish layers do not exceed 150°F
• Working in sections from one end to throughout the firing cycle (including sev-
the other, wet the earthen masonry, and eral hours after the fire). If the surface is too
apply the plaster or undercoat with a con- hot for wood, thicker masonry could help
crete or tile trowel (jagged edges make a (add another inch or two of plaster and test
again). Attractive and heat-tolerant alterna- insulation around at least one side, pref-
tives to wood trim might include Saltillo erably two. This is to allow for different
tiles, marble or granite slabs in warm colors, rates of thermal and moisture expansion.
“parquet” mosaic with streaked glass tiles, Driftwood mantelpieces and other or-
or even wood-textured concrete siding with ganic shapes can easily be half-buried in
heat-tolerant paint or stain. cob.
Dead men (supports for wood) are laid in
the rough or finish plaster layers. Combustible supports should not be
buried within a masonry heater, but wing
• Prepare scrap wood with a bristling layer of walls (thin connecting walls) of cob may
bent nails, old screws, or natural branches be used to extend the masonry into contact
short enough to embed and lock into the with existing walls.
earthen plaster. Make sure the bristles are
located and sized so they will not punc- Metal Trim and Fittings
ture any pipes or ductwork. (Doors, Cleanout Covers, Etc.)
• Lay the wet plaster as above. Coat the Metal fittings in high-heat areas can “crawl”
roughened sides of the dead men with clay over time due to thermal expansion.
slip (or lime-water for lime plasters), and The metal shapes we have buried in our
squoosh them in. Work the plaster around cob so far are round, with no corners to start
the spines, and tap to level. a fracture when they expand with heat. The
• After the dead men are leveled and the buried parts are generally below 300°F, and
material dries, wood trim is screwed or there is at least 4˝ of cob around these struc-
nailed into the dead men as for ordinary tures to resist cracking.
framing. (Pre-drill if needed, and use If attaching metal details like a stove door
suitable-sized screws, to avoid strain that or antique metal panels, plan for thermal
might bust the dead man loose from the expansion. Burying up to half of a metal ob-
masonry.) ject or leaving two faces exposed may allow
• If wood trim or structural members are it to expand without cracking the masonry.
in contact or partially buried in cob (like Flexible “cements” or welding are used for
posts for a nearby wall or roof ), expose or metal-to-metal seams, but there are limit-
wrap flexible expansion jointing such as ed materials for flexible masonry-to-metal
joints. Stove gasket or refractory felt may

help offer expansion joints.
We test-fire our systems while the casing
cob is “green” or leather hard, deliberate-
ly flexing the material to allow expansion
without cracking. This technique is com-
pletely anathema to cement or lime-based
masonry, as early heating interferes with the
proper setting of the material.
To properly set a metal frame within ma-
sonry in a high-temperature area such as the
feed lid:
• There must be a metal frame to receive

the lid, anchored into the masonry deeply
enough to allow for the force and move-
ment without cracking masonry or pulling Our finished example project, photo courtesy of Priscilla Smith.
out anchors. Some builders create an inde-
pendent cage of metal, cradling the firebox • Use fresh mortar, and dampen or rough-
and surrounded in the casing masonry, en any cured masonry to ensure a good
padded with insulation blanket. bond. You can paint the metal itself with a
• Prepare the metal frame for heat expan- thin coating of mortar if desired. Seat the
sion stress by attaching flexible expansion metal (with expansion joints in place) in
jointing (flexible fiberglass gasket, rock the fresh mortar, gradually working it into
wool, or ceramic-fiber insulation) to any place and checking level or plumb before
corners or edges that will be buried. If tapping it into place. Make sure that no
the material will probably expand in all mortar gets on hinges or operable parts.
directions, wrapping the entire part may • To reduce cracking, use thicker masonry
be needed. If the material can be expect- around any embedded corners, with well-
ed to expand linearly (like the lintel over placed, flexible expansion joint materials
a fireplace), pad the ends where they will between the metal and masonry.
meet the masonry. Also cover any hinges
or moving parts with plastic or tape to ex- Other Decorations
clude mortar. Additional decorative touches may be added
• Prepare your mortar and masonry units. It over time as you get used to the stove’s per-
is helpful if prior courses are firm and sta- formance, such as decorative screens or
ble, but the metal part can be built in place mosaic around the bell; cushions or futon
along with any coursework at the same pads; recoating or tinting the surfaces; etc.
level. If the metal is supporting further Cushions, fabric, and other removable dec-
coursework, allow the mortar and weight. orations are covered in Chapter 5.
6” Rocket Mass Heater

Sample firebrick layout for 6˝ combustion
unit
Brick coursework:
Interior dimensions:
The burn channel is 5.25˝ × 5.75 inches:
5.75 inches tall (1.25˝ plus 4.5˝ plus mor-
tar), 5.25˝ wide, and the openings at fuel
feed and heat riser are 5.75˝ long.
The total burn tunnel floor length is 23.5
inches (a little more depending on mortar).
Fuel feed is 16˝ deep, the maximum in
proportion to a heat riser 48˝ tall.
Note the alternating spiral layout allows
leaving the ends sticking out; any dimen-
sion of brick can be used. Only 2 cuts are
required (5.75˝ bricks that butt against the
bridge, course 4). But if you trim the heat
riser bricks, their ends can be used in course
2, saving a few bricks and improving the in-
sulation fit and manifold clearances.
6” heater in firebrick, top view of each course 6” heater in firebrick, side view
8” firebox, one-page cheat sheet for brick layout. be useful, enlarged, as a scale template for project
Read from top-left down to bottom, then top-right layout.)
down to end. (The bottom-right final course could
6” heater layout for firebrick

and cut-barrel manifold.
A 6-inch combustion unit in red brick, with a square brick manifold. Inch dimensions:
Burn tunnel 21” long by 5” wide, minimum 3” gap to pipe side of manifold. Heat riser
and feed interior: 5” wide by 5.5” long. Heat riser at least 47” tall, feed 12” or 15” tall.
8” Rocket Mass Heater Brick coursework:

Sample brick layout for combustion unit Interior dimensions:
The burn channel is 7˝ × 7.5 inches:
7+ inches tall (2.5˝ plus 4.5˝ plus mor-
tar), 7.5˝ wide, and the openings at fuel feed
and heat riser are 7˝ long.
The total burn tunnel floor length is 24
inches.
Fuel feed is 16˝ deep, the maximum in
proportion to a heat riser 48˝ tall.
Note the alternating spiral layout allows
any dimension of brick to be used, with
only 2 cuts required (7˝ bricks that butt
against the bridge, course 4). Other bricks’
ends or corners may be trimmed for tighter
clearances if desired.
Firebrick can be laid with fireclay slip,
or with a thin clay-sand or fireclay mortar
for bonding, seal, and stability. Around the
brick, the insulation also serves as a second-
ary seal and expansion joint.
Check often for flush interior walls, and
level courses.
Shown: Manifold cut
from a second barrel, to
fit over the burn tun-
nel and exhaust. The
barrels must have an
airtight seal. We use a
band clamp and gasket.
Alternative: barrel can be
sealed with 4˝ masonry
and expansion joint.
8” Rocket Mass Heater (200 mm) Mortar thickness or brick dimensions

These dimensions wre originally developed can affect the buildable dimensions in
in inches (8˝ or 6˝ diameter stovepipe, 9˝ courses 2, 3, and 4.
by 4.5˝ by 2.5˝ firebrick). Luckily, metric Before starting, lay together the 4 bricks
equivalent parts are simi- on edge for the bridge (course 4), with mor-
lar and common. tar if used. Measure them. Is the span 24 cm
These firebox dimen- as shown? These bricks plus 18 com* open-
sions are for a rocket mass ings make up the total firebox length. With
heater using 200 mm ID mortar, the burn tunnel might be 61.5 cm
(internal dimension/dia long instead of 60. Work to the actual length
meter) stovepipe for heat in courses 2 and 3.
exchange channels and ex- Two bricks must be cut to make the
haust chimney. short (18 cm*) sides of the firebox openings
The layouts can be at course 4.
built with almost any di-
mension of brick. *In courses 2 and 3, the total
height of the bricks may require
adjustment to the width and
opening length. Length of open-
ings = burn tunnel height (shown
at 18 cm). Multiply either by the
19 cm width = flow area. If course
2 and 3 are not exactly 18 cm tall,
find the closest stackable dimen-
sion, and adjust opening length to
match. Adjust width to compen-
sate, to keep the flow area roughly
330 cm2.
Chapter 5
Operation and Maintenance
T his chapter is intended to serve as

a stand-alone guide for owners of rock-
et mass heaters. It mainly refers to J-style
accurate, unique manual for your particu-
lar heater. Someone other than you might
need this information in the future. In some
rocket mass heaters built in accordance with instances, we’ve provided blank fill-in lines
guidelines in this book. to prompt documentation, but you should
Be aware that this chapter may contain also attach your own project plans.
information about features or methods that In this chapter, we will cover general op-
are not relevant to your particular heater. erating and maintenance issues, and help
Heaters with unconventional chimneys, you create an owner’s manual for your spe-
odd proportions, or other improvised alter- cific heater.
ations may not operate as described (or at
all). Warnings
For general troubleshooting tips for non- Heating involves well-known hazards; these
standard heaters, we recommend the FAQ are the operator’s responsibility to manage.
section of Rocket Mass Heaters by Evans and The laws of nature are not subject to lawsuit
Jackson. You can find discussions about im- or appeal. Remember:
provised heaters and stoves online at energy
forums like www.permies.com. • Fire is dangerous. By lighting a fire any
In order to properly maintain your where, you become responsible for tending
heater, you will need to document its con- it. Check and remove nearby combustibles
struction details for future reference. Don’t before lighting any fire. Watch it; feed it
rely on your memory. As a builder/owner, only appropriate fuels; and make sure it’s
you should consider it your responsibility finally out. Never leave fire unattended.
to document your project’s site-specific in- • Smoke is nasty. Smoke carries heat, toxic
formation, which is essential to create an and flammable vapors, carcinogens, heavy
101
metals, depleted oxygen, invisible carbon operation for safe and effective performance.
monoxide (CO) and CO2. The operator Although they are designed by and for obser-
must ensure proper ventilation and elim- vant, responsible operators, for many people
inate all preventable smoke — not just the operating principles are counter-intui-
indoors, but residual smoke that can coat tive at first. Operation becomes easier with
channels with creosote or pollute shared knowledge and training, but more impor-
outdoor air. tantly, with practice. An attitude of cheerful
• Metal and masonry get hot. Keep un- problem-solving goes a long way.
suitable items away from hot surfaces. Other owners, builders, and designers
Observe the actual operating temperatures will probably be happy to offer advice if you
of your particular heater — during and encounter any difficulties. Please share the
after firing. Monitor for changes if fuel, benefits of your own experience the same
weather, or operating patterns change. way. We’re all in it together; the risks and
• Wood burns. Natural fuels are less pre- benefits involved affect everyone.
dictable than refined fuels; the operator is Do your best, ask questions, and compare
responsible for fuel choice, dry storage, and notes, and then decide for yourself whether
fire tending. Store fuel and other flamma- this is the right heater for your situation.
ble materials away from heat and sparks. Be safe. Have fun.
• Dust chokes. Avoid breathing anything This guide is intended to assist, not re-
other than air. Avoid smoke, masonry place, your own observation, skills, and
dust, ash, insulation fibers, and funky up- experience. Every site-built heater is unique.
holstery. Use water to control dust during Please write your own notes, and adapt this
masonry work, and use respiratory pro- guide as needed. Non-commercial sharing
tection and good vacuum filters during and adaptation is permitted and encour-
maintenance. aged. However, because every rocket mass
• Water erodes. Watch for signs of water heater is, by definition, unique, the authors
damage, leaks, or corrosion — especially can take no responsibility for the accuracy,
in areas where your stovepipe goes through safety, or applicability of this information to
the walls or roof, exposed joints, cleanouts, a particular situation. No persons associated
and any areas where spills, condensation, with this publication can be held liable for
or rising damp could collect and pool. injury, damages, or deaths resulting from
• People play. Enjoy your heater. Engage this information or related activities.
with it. Anticipate the natural curiosity of
Types of Heaters
visitors (especially children) who may play
with the firebox, fiddle with cleanouts or The laws of physics dictate how rocket mass
dampers, or drop toys in odd places. Check heaters work. In order to operate one suc-
the heater carefully after guests visit. cessfully, it helps to understand that there
are different types of heaters, and that the
These are radiant heaters, not automat- design decisions behind rocket mass heaters
ed furnaces or boilers. They rely on manual are made for specific reasons.
Operation and Maintenance 103
Some Useful Definitions saving a lot of fuel in seasons with variable

A heater is designed to heat space or things. weather. If you don’t need steady heat,
Common space heaters include fireplaces, just a few hours here and there, then this
woodstoves, electric or gas radiators, base- design may not be your best option. See
board heaters, radiant floors, etc. Personal “Cold Starts” later on in this chapter for
heaters include heated seats or saunas, elec- some methods for working around the
tric blankets or heating pads, or hot water cold mass, or you may prefer a lower-mass
bottles. option like a parlor stove or radiant fire-
A stove produces quick heat for cooking place for quick, on-demand heat.
or heating. Stovetop cooking usually involves • The goal is to heat people, not space.
heating from underneath, as contrasted Heat stored in masonry is of little value if
with baking (in the oven). Many stoves are nobody is there to enjoy it. Most people
transportable, but large site-built masonry seek indoor warmth at predictable times:
heaters may also be called masonry stoves. chilly evenings and nights, while resting
An oven is a warm or hot enclosure for after meals, and during sedentary work or
baking or drying material. relaxation. A heated bench or bed deliv-
A furnace blows warm air through ers heat where it is most appreciated, and
ductwork to heat a building. Furnaces are in a place where it’s generally convenient
usually located in a space separated from to tend to. Heaters located in a basement,
the occupied spaces of the home (in a clos- crawl space, or separate addition may
et, utility room, or basement). (Industrial squander as much as three quarters of their
furnaces are different; they can be immense, heat output before any trace of warmth
usually custom-made facilities for smelting, reaches the occupants.
refining, and other high-heat processes.) • Automation is not always desirable.
A boiler can also be used to heat build- While automation is a convenient way to
ings, and it also operates separated from use fossil fuels, it does cost energy, and it
occupied spaces (often in a separate build- also involves moving parts that can fail (or
ing); but instead of hot air, it produces hot stop working in power outages). The rock-
fluids such as water or steam for distribution et mass heater is designed to operate on
to the areas needing heat. (Even if the heat- natural convection draft with the help of
ed water never boils, this type of heater can a responsible operator — no outside ma-
still be called a “boiler.”) chinery required.
Rocket mass heaters are designed to • Change is stressful, and your own expe-
bridge the gap between the nature of fire rience will dictate how big a change this
and human needs. Their design makes a few is. Operators accustomed to heating with
assumptions: a conventional, low-mass woodstove gen-
erally find that rocket mass heaters offer
• Steady warmth is more comfortable far more comfort with less effort. Owners
than alternating hot and cold. Thermal accustomed to automated central heating
mass stabilizes temperatures over time, may find that heating with wood is more
work or hassle than they expected; you • Elegant design (the simplest effective
earn the cost savings with some manual solution) comes from being in harmo-
labor. Some owners use their rocket mass ny with natural laws and human nature.
heater when convenient, and keep their Conventional heating, ventilating, and air
less-efficient central heating set on low conditioning systems (HVAC) use abun-
for backup. If you are happy with your dant fossil fuels to overcome uncomfortable
existing heater, woodstove, or furnace, weather or poor building design. Ironically,
we generally suggest keeping it while you this fuel consumption and the resulting
become accustomed to the rocket mass greenhouse gas emissions may be con-
heater. tributing to more extreme weather events.
Rocket Mass Heaters

Rocket Mass Heaters are highly efficient solid-fueled heat-exchange mass to capture and store that heat for
heaters. They are designed to warm people, plants, gradual release. They will each have site-specific lay-
and buildings with constant, steady heat, while requir- outs, features, and proportions.
ing minimal fuel, pollution, or operator effort.
Rocket mass heaters have two main components:
a combustion unit for clean burning of fuel; and a
Rocket mass heaters use minimal resources Flames move sideways along the burn tun-
to extract heat from abundant, renewable nel. The insulated heat riser draws flames up
natural fuels, then convert most of that heat to complete a clean burn. The barrel or bell
into efficient, ergonomic comfort. (Solar radiates heat outward, and downdrafts the
energy and ambient warmth can also be exhaust gases to the manifold.
stored in the heater mass; see Chapters 2 Heat Exchanger: From the manifold,
and 4 for ideas about passive solar design.) hot exhaust gases pass into the heat-ex-
The rocket mass heater is designed around change ducting, slowly losing heat to the
human needs, wants, and physical abilities surrounding thermal mass before reaching
that are common, but not universal. We the exit chimney. The heat-exchange mass
hope that you’ll consider whether it’s the stores heat for contact comfort and long-
right tool for your situation, and if not, that term warmth. It may be a heated bench,
these points may help you to find the right floor, or bed.
solution for you. Cleanouts: These are openings in the ma-
sonry that give access to the heat-exchange
Rocket Mass Heater Components channels, one access point at each turn and
Terms and Definitions each vertical drop. Some heaters may have
Combustion Unit: Fuel loads vertically in an ash trap, a bypass damper, or outside air
the fuel feed, burning hottest at the bottom. intakes.
System Size: The inch measurement in a heat output, will determine your choice of
“6˝ system” or “8˝ system” refers to the in- system size.
terior diameter of pipe used for the exhaust
channels and exit chimney. The cross-sec- • 6˝ system: CSA about 30 square inches
tional area (CSA) of this pipe represents (28)
the desired flow area for all channels in the • 7˝ system: CSA about 40 square inches (38)
system, including the combustion channels. • 8˝ system: CSA about 50 square inches
An existing chimney flue, or your desired (52)
As-built Drawings
As-built drawings show what actually got built (not any missing numbers.
just our plans or good intentions). In case of later Show these details:
troubleshooting or renovations, accurate notes about
• Top view (plan)
what’s inside that mass of masonry may save tons of
• Side view (section or elevation)
unnecessary work.
• Materials and construction details
Architects and engineers are trained to produce ac-
• Dimensions of the heater, thermal mass, and
curate as-built drawings. As an owner or builder, don’t
surroundings
worry about artistry, just take good, practical notes.
• Combustion unit dimensions
You can write the measurements on a pencil sketch,
• Cleanout locations
or take photos at each stage of the project. Put a ruler
• Foundations
or coin in the photo for scale. If necessary, stick a tape
• Exit chimney or vent
measure down the tubes after the fact, and capture
• Any special features such as:
b bypass damper
b heat shielding
b outside air, room air, fans
b hidden access panels
• Any hidden hazards (utilities,
asbestos, glass, or sharp infill)
Systems as small as 4˝ and as large as 12˝ bypass damper, branching channels, or large
have been built; but these present unique cavities.)
problems outside the scope of this book. Thermal Storage Mass: Most heaters
Heat-Exchange Ducting: Most rock- have 30 to 100 cubic feet of masonry mass,
et mass heaters have 20–40 feet of lined or 1 to 5 tons, with at least 4˝ of masonry wall
channel snaking through the heat-exchange around the outside of each heat-exchange
mass. The length, material, turns, and cross- duct for structural integrity. (Low-clearance
sectional area of this channel all affect the heaters generally have 5˝ of masonry thick-
heat storage and draft performance. ness plus a 4˝ air gap to combustibles.)
(Note: As you build, be sure to note Combustion Area Proportions: Correct
for your records any special features like proportions are critical to performance.
Heater Summary Building size:______________________________
Heat-exchange mass Chimney height: __________________________
Duct size:_________________________________ Foundations:______________________________
Duct length: ______________________________ Attach as-built drawings or photos, or indicate where to

find them.
Thermal storage material, size, weight:_________
________________________________________
Combustion unit
Heat riser height: __________________________
Fuel feed height: __________________________
Burn tunnel length:________________________
Firebox opening size:
width: _________ length/height*: ____________
* feed length and tunnel height typically match;

note if different
Gap above heat riser: _______________________
Gap in manifold (minimum clearance): ________
Site Details
Project dates: _____________________________
Location: ________________________________
Heater History cleanouts, buried glass or other hazards): __________

Attach additional pages as needed. ____________________________________________
Initial Documentation Operator Notes

List names and contact info for people involved with Tinder
the heater’s installation and anyone who might be in-
How many sheets of newspaper/paper bags does it
volved in repairs:
take to start this heater? ________________________
Designer: ____________________________________
Book, plans, or other design references: ____________ Kindling
____________________________________________ Does it like a lot of kindling, or a few scraps? (at first
Builder(s): ____________________________________ ___________; once warm, _______________________)
____________________________________________
Fuel loading
Helpers:______________________________________
Does this heater perform best (as most do) with a
____________________________________________
Were there any contracts, guarantees, or warranties? full fuel load? Y/N ___________________% full with
Technical support? ____________________ type(s) of wood
____________________________________________
____________________________________________
Construction Notes
Where do we keep records of the design and building
process? (Attach them, if possible.)
____________________________________________
Fuel types
____________________________________________ Any favorite fuel blends, types, or sizes?
____________________________________________ Twigs/sticks/poles/log(s)?_______________________
Was the heater officially permitted, approved, or Hardwood/softwood/mixed? ____________________
exempted? ___________________________________ Bark-on/split/scrap lumber/paper? _______________
____________________________________________
Was the design changed to meet local codes? Y / N Air controls
Did these changes affect performance? How? Performs well full-open? Y / N
What air setting makes no smoke, indoors or out? A
____________________________________________
____________________________________________
Are there any potential hazards, hidden features, or
warnings? (e.g. electrical wiring, hidden dampers or
Weather Troubleshooting
Does weather affect this heater’s performance? Does the heater have any special tricks for handling
Wind force/direction___________________________ draft, smokeback, or cold starts?__________________
Outdoor temperature __________________________
Rain or snow__________________________________ Misc. observations
(Note: If you notice changes in performance, or have to ____________________________________________

change fuel, air, or other control settings without any ____________________________________________
clear reason, this may indicate it’s cleaning time or other
____________________________________________
maintenance is needed.)
____________________________________________
Cleaning
____________________________________________
What part(s) need to be cleaned out most often?
Firebox ____________ Manifold__________Cleanouts ____________________________________________
What depth of ash do we leave in the firebox?_______ ____________________________________________
Documenting Your • Stay warm for many hours (or days) after
Site-built Heater each firing
As the owner or builder, you need to docu- • Take time to “recharge” with heat if they
ment measurements and the materials and have been allowed to cool completely
methods used in constructing your heater. It • Do not need to burn at night
will be crucial to future maintenance. You’ll • Should not be left burning unattended
want to have a file where you will keep all
your plans, as-built drawings, project pho- For best results you should inspect the
tos, etc. Use the “Heater Summary” shown heater before lighting (see inspection list,
here to get started on your documentation. below). Always operate with about ¼˝ of
Combustion Area Proportions: Docu ash in firebox (a little ash insulates the fire
ment heights, lengths, and gaps in the heater and bricks, but anything more than 1˝ can
summary. choke the fire; so, remove excess ash before
starting a new fire).
Operation
Most owners run their heater while relaxing Routine Operation:
at home in the evening, or at any conveni Lighting the Fire
ent time of day during indoor office work,
reading, or entertainment. (See also color insert.)
Rocket mass heaters generally: • Use the inspection checklist (page 110) to
• Are fired intermittently: full heat for a few make sure all the parts of the heater are in
hours, then close down between firings working order.
Preliminary Inspection ______ Tinder and fuel: Fuel must be dry, sized to fit
Look over the entire heater, with attention to the in the fuel feed, and stored a safe distance from the
following: heater.
______ Clear any combustible items from fuel feed/

All surfaces
hearth area (4˝ air gap around masonry, 18˝ hearth
______ no cracks or damage
around fuel feed).
______ no evidence of leaks (soot or smoke streaks
outside, cleared streaks in soot inside) Radiant metal barrel/bell
______ no heat-sensitive items (cloth, wax, paper) in ______ Clear any heat-sensitive items from top and
wrong places sides. Clear any combustibles within 3 feet of metal
radiant surfaces. (Do not dry fuel on, or in contact with,
Cleanouts
radiant metal surfaces.)
Mark locations on heater drawings (C1, C2, . . . ).
Optional features
______ Use cleanout openings to confirm that sys-
(not all heaters have these)
tem is clean and free of debris.
______ Wood trim: Good condition, no discoloration
______ Close cleanout caps securely before lighting
or warping near heat. (All wood should stay cooler than
the heater.
150°F (65°C) throughout heating cycle.)
Soot and fly ash normally accumulate between annu-
______ Upholstery: Good condition and properly
al cleanings. Streak or spray patterns in soot indicate air
leaks, which must be sealed. Sticky creosote should never placed on the zero-clearance bench area (not against
occur; it may indicate problems with heater, or damp/ the barrel or fuel feed hearth). (Use heat-tolerant fab-
green fuels. Outdoor debris (leaves, nests) may indicate a rics; see “Upholstery” below.)
missing exhaust screen.
______ Fresh air channels including outside air, room
Fuel feed and combustion area air, heat shield air gaps. (Keep all air gaps clear of loose
items and flammable debris such as lint, dust bunnies.)
______ Fuel feed lid or bricks to cover opening,
adjust incoming air. ______ Heat shields: minimum 1˝ air gap behind,
below, and above for convection.
______ Fireplace tools present and in good
condition: ______ Bypass damper: Use nearby cleanout(s) to
inspect damper condition, if possible. (Set to correct
______ long-handled tongs, _____ metal ash bucket
position (open for cold start, close to store heat.)
(optional: ______ hatchet, ______ hearth brush,
______ ash scoop or shovel)
1. Inspect the heater

and clean the firebox
(leave ¼˝ of ash).
• Check for warmth. Most heaters start

easiest when the mass and heat riser are
already warm. If any parts of the heater
are unusually hot, another fire could cre-
ate an uncomfortable amount of heat. If
the heater is cooler than the outside air,
it may require extra priming to overcome
this “cold start.” Several methods for cold
starts are described later on. 2. Use a candle or
• Check the draft. Light a candle or twist of tinder to establish
newspaper, and tuck it down through the draft. Tuck lighted
feed opening into the burn tunnel to see tinder partway into
if the draft is working. When the flame the burn tunnel. Draft
flickers away from you down the burn is working when the
tunnel, the draft is working properly. flames pull away from
• Prepare your tinder and light the fire. Use you, toward the heat
only dry, natural firewood that fits in the riser.
firebox. Oversized, wet, or contaminated
fuels can create dangerous problems.
• Place wood vertically, with thick ends
down (to allow it to drop instead of wedg-
ing). Keep the actively burning wood in
front (toward the burn tunnel and bell). 3. Drop kindling onto
As the kindling catches, stand a few small the burning tinder. Set
sticks behind the kindling, then add a few the sticks vertically
larger sticks behind that to fill the feed against the tunnel
tube. opening.
• Remain near the fire for the first phase

of the burn, about 20 minutes, to ensure
that all kindling catches and drops down
properly. Rattle the kindling if needed, to
help it fall downward.
• Always add fresh wood behind the exist-
4. Once kindling is ing fire; don’t disrupt the hot flame with
burning, add larger cold material. If needed, move the burn-
fuel behind the fire. ing logs forward with tongs so you can
load the next piece behind them. Once
the fire is well established, use larger piec-
es of wood (2˝ to 5˝ thick).
• Eliminate any vertical “chimneys” between
pieces of wood. Wood that is too tall for
the firebox, or unusually pitchy, may draw
flames upward. Wood with a wet core may
also refuse to drop and cause problems.
Most problem wood can still be burned,
just cut it down to a shorter length (ideal-
ly from the beginning; shorter wood dries
quicker, as well).
• Most rocket mass heaters burn best with a
full fuel load and an air opening between
5. Load fresh logs full-open and about 25% open. If neces-
behind the burning sary, use a brick or tile to partially cover
fuel. Reload as need- the opening. We generally leave it at least
ed, using the largest one third open throughout the burn.
practical logs.
• Once the house is comfortable and

enough heat is stored, stop feeding the
fire. Reduce the air as the fuel dwindles to
maintain a clean, balanced burn. 6. Adjust air flow if
• When the fire is completely out, shut the needed — at least ¹ ⁄₃
feed lid to stop the air flow. open throughout the
main burn. A full fuel
Emergency shut-downs are not recom- load and full-open
mended. If you suddenly have to leave before air allows the fire to
the fire is finished, you can close the opening self-regulate.
down to a screened air slot (1˝ or so) and let
the fire burn itself out. Do not smother an
active fire by sealing off its air supply; this is
likely to cause smoke and creosote problems
in the stove, and possibly smoke leaks into
the room if the chimneys cool too quickly.
If there is a minor problem, such as slow
draft that seems to call for a maintenance
inspection, the general procedure is to ven-
tilate the room well to remove any smoke, 7. As the fire burns
close down the air supply to about 20% of down, reduce air flow.
the opening.
In case of a dire emergency, where imme-
diate shut-down is critical, some operators
have successfully used a metal bucket and
tongs to collect burning fuels and remove
them quickly to outdoors, and then extin-
guish them outside. You could also use a dry
fog or powder extinguisher if needed (ABC 8. When the fire is
type). In either case, ventilate the residual done, close the feed
smoke from the room. opening.
We do not recommend using water as an
extinguisher for indoor fire places or stoves
of any kind, as it creates a cloud of noxious of kindling, wood chip, junk mail, or other
steam and smoke that is usually worse than small fuels can create a blockage of ash and
anything the fire was doing on its own. embers. Use a poker to clear an airway, and
Water and steam can permanently damage allow the fire to burn down before adding
hot masonry or metal. any more fuel.
After the firebox is hot, it turns kindl To avoid this problem, load larger logs
ing into coals very quickly. Large amounts instead of small fuels once the firebox is hot.
And to reduce ash buildup in all parts of brown paper bags, or shredded natural fiber
the system, use the cleanest tinder you can make excellent tinder with little ash. Small
get. Avoid color-printed material (contains quantities of butter wrappers, grease paper,
clay and weird minerals). Plain newsprint, or sawdust/wax firelighters are helpful too.
Hot Spots
• Barrel (200–800°F/90–400°C)
• Feed opening (radiant heat from coals
that are up to 1800°F/1000°C)
• Combustion area masonry, cleanouts
Spots to check.
(150–200°F/ 65–90°C)
• Hidden voids or insulated areas, such as
under upholstery
Trouble Spots
• Random items left on top of the barrel,
or leaning against it
• Toys, flammable tools, or fuel scraps
around feed area
• Fuel, upholstery, clothing, or other flam-
mable items too close to hot spots
• Cleanout covers missing or loose
Cold Starts and Optional The secret to cold starts is to prime the
Priming Methods vertical chimney(s) slowly, preheating the
Cold Starts heat riser and exit chimney to draw cold
air out of the system before lighting a larger
A “cold start” is what you have when you
fire.
are trying to light the heater when the mass
of the heater is colder than outside air. Cold Cold Start Methods
starts affect fireplaces and woodstoves too. A
cold chimney will draw cool air downwards, Paper Pusher:
instead of warm air upwards. It can be dif- Classic Fireplace Method
ficult to reverse that flow when you need to Light a twist of newspaper under the heat
start the proper draft for your fire. riser as you would in an ordinary fireplace
Cold starts most commonly happen throat, to confirm good draft before start-
under specific circumstances: ing the fire. When the flames draw properly
(away from you, toward the heat riser), then
• during the first fire of the season add kindling and light the fire.
• when the mass is damp (as in a new heater
being built, or a greenhouse bench under
watered plants)
• in occasional-use heaters such as vacation
cabins
• when the heater is fired during warmer
weather, for whatever reason (mild climates,
sporadic heating needs, or show-and-tell)
Unlike most fireplaces and woodstoves,

the rocket mass heater has an “airlock” Candle Method: Simple and Sweet
profile (like the U-trap in a kitchen sink). Light a candle under the heat riser. Wait
It drafts beautifully when hot, but slowly about 10 minutes, then pull it out and
when cold. This helps the fire self-regulate check. When the flame points toward the
its air intake, and prevents the heater from heat riser instead of back at you, the system
removing warm air from your home if you is primed and ready. This may take up to 40
forget to close the feed lid after a fire. But
the airlock feature does make cold starts 1 2
more challenging.
Cold air can act as a dense “plug,” pool-
ing and swirling like fog in a valley. Trying
to force warm air through a cold plug can
produce some very weird effects, like smoke
“bouncing” out of the fuel feed after a fire
had just started to draw.
minutes, but we’ve never needed a second are warm, gradually close the damper to
candle. force warm exhaust into the heat-exchange
channels. It may take some time to fully cir-
Chimney-priming Method: culate the cold, stale air out and establish
Rough-and-ready normal draft.
Remove the cleanout cap at the bottom of Bypass dampers usually follow the gen-
the exit chimney, and light a small fire right eral valve convention: when the handle is
inside the chimney. Burn a wad of news- lined up with the pipe, the damper is open
paper, a Sterno stove, or some other small, for flow in that direction.
clean fire right in the exit chimney. If pos-
sible, replace the cap while this little fire is
still burning, to forcibly draw the cold air
out of the thermal mass and replace it with
warmer room air.
Chimney-priming fires work well in
combination with the candle method. Be
aware that if you try to light a priming fire
in the chimney after a failed full-size fire the
spent exhaust may put out the priming fire.
Horizontal Dump: A Workaround
A few systems have a horizontal exhaust exit
that opens outdoors, such as a cleanout at
the bottom of the exit chimney. On a calm
day, it may be easier to start the heater with
this cleanout open, “dumping” the cold ex-
haust (1) until the thermal mass warms.
Bypass: Planning Ahead

Some heaters are built with a bypass: a
shortcut that allows the exhaust directly into
the chimney, bypassing the longer heat-ex-
change channels.
With the bypass damper open (as
shown), the system can get going very quick-
ly. Once the combustion unit and chimney
Once the exhaust coming out feels nice (with battery or hand-crank backup), or an
and warm, and rises as it floats away, grad- electrical preheater or chimney warmer (as
ually replace the cap and watch the exhaust simple as an incandescent light bulb or heat
rise up the chimney. lamp left in place for a while and then re-
moved before lighting the fire).
Weather Watch Method:
Adapt to Actual
For the first fire of the season, wait until
the cool of the evening, or start the fire
early in the morning. Since the mass reverts
to the average ambient temperature, not the
coldest temperature, there is usually a time
of day when the outside air is colder than
the indoor mass.
Passive solar building design can allow
the heater to soak up sun rays during winter
days, stacking the deck so you never have a Design Features
cold start. The following will make heaters more likely
to draft strongly in all conditions, including
cold starts:
• a self-priming exit chimney next to the

warm barrel (with or without a bypass)
• shorter heat-exchange ducting
• taller and better-insulated exit chimneys
and heat risers
Fuel Selection and Storage

All fuel must be dry — below 15% moisture
Power Assist Methods: content, the drier the better. To check your
The Electric Crutch firewood’s moisture content, split a log and
Normally we don’t advocate electronic gad- weigh the pieces. Then dry them on “low”
gets on wood-fired heaters. (What good in a bake-oven for a few days, or indoors
is wood heat if it doesn’t work in a power with a fan for about 2 weeks. Weigh them
failure? Also, moving parts such as fans are again. The lost weight (water) should be less
often the first things to break down in the than 10% of the total (some water may re-
hot, corrosive atmosphere of combustion main trapped in the wood, depending on
exhaust.) indoor humidity).
Exceptions might include a cold-start Season natural firewood in dry storage
booster fan that is only used occasionally for at least six months prior to burning, up
to two years if possible. Firewood stored in hazard). Hardwoods, softwoods, fruitwoods,

contact with the ground or wrapped in plas- and brushy scrub are all fine. Split cordwood
tic does not dry or season properly. works great.
Good wood storage provides excellent Waste fuels often make great rocket fod-
ventilation below and beside the wood, pro- der. You can use arbor and orchard wastes,
tection from rain and snow, and space to dead branches, coppiced wood (straight
separate last year’s dry wood from this year’s “suckers” from pruned trees), and lumber
green harvest. An ideal woodshed also in- project scraps (but avoid any lumber that
cludes tool storage and room to swing an ax has been treated with drying agents, salts,
in the shade. paints, or varnishes).
If you want to get competitive about ef-
Recommended Fuels ficiency, track your fuel usage by dry weight,
You can use any dry, natural wood fuel that not volume. Pound for pound, oak and
fits in your fuel feed (taller pieces are a fire pine are roughly the same BTU value even
though they are quite different by volume.
Tinder/light fuels: Use these sparingly to
Recommended local fuel sources: start fires; overuse leads to excess ash. Paper,
grease paper, dry plant wastes like leaves,
________________________________________________
straw, corn husks, reeds, etc., are good
________________________________________________ choices.
________________________________________________ Small fuel scraps: Any clean, dry, natu-
________________________________________________ ral cellulose–type fuel can be burned. Most
won’t self-feed like straight log fuels. Chips,
________________________________________________
wood pellets, dried dung, nutshells, block
________________________________________________ scraps, pine cones, and bark can be burned
________________________________________________ alongside other fuels in a mixed fire, some-
________________________________________________
times with air adjustment.
Tricky fuels: Fuel/air imbalances can
Our heater’s best-performing size and type(s) of fuel: cause smoke problems indoors and out, and
________________________________________________ maintenance nightmares with creosote in the
________________________________________________ pipes. If you have an excess of poor fuels, try
mixing small pieces in with a larger amount
________________________________________________
of good, clean fuel.
________________________________________________ Avoid wet wood, punky rotten wood,
________________________________________________ too-long pieces, very pitchy wood, wide flat
________________________________________________ pieces shaped like chimney dampers, and
forked or knobby wood sections. All these
________________________________________________
are poor fuels for rocket mass heaters, but
________________________________________________ can sometimes be burned in small quanti-
ties when mixed with better wood.
“Presto-Logs” (cakes of sawdust and Maintenance, Inspection,

wax) have not been tested; use caution. and Repair
BAD IDEA fuels: Some fuels can damage Over time, excess wood ash can build up
your heater and/or poison your household. into a hard mass, reducing the air volume
• DO NOT USE painted, varnished, or and choking your heater. Before you start
treated wood; plywood; or pressboard. a new fire, scoop out the accumulated ash
• DO NOT USE concentrated fossil fuels from your burn tunnel. Leave up to ¼˝ of
such as oil or coal. loose ash, to insulate the fire and protect the
• DO NOT USE volatile/explosive fuels, bricks.
trash, metals, or plastics. Tools for scooping out firebox ashes:
hands, sardine can, bent-handle shovel.
Not all firewood suppliers know or care
about dry firewood. If you find a reliable
supplier with good facilities for producing
dry, seasoned firewood, don’t lose their con-
tact info!
Performance Log
Tracking the performance of your heater
over time is the most accurate way to esti-
mate fuel needs.
Use this book, or your own notebook,
to record the performance of your heater.
Note the fuel type, weather and outdoor tem-
peratures, length of burn, heater and room Annually/As Needed
temperatures (especially nearby combusti- Fly ash builds up like snow in the manifold
bles/cushions), and whether any smoke is and downstream, especially from burning
observed in the exhaust. Record any prob- paper. Cleaning time may be indicated by
lems or discoveries. changes in performance: slow draft, weird
Changes in performance from one heat- slow burn, increasing backdraft/“smoke-
ing season to the next may give early warning back,” changes in air settings or burn times,
of maintenance issues. or the sound of scrabbling vermin which
Log the performance regularly until must be removed promptly.
you feel comfortable with the heater (1–3 We recommend checking for excess
months). After that, you can log intermit- ash after each 1 to 2 cords of wood (2 to
tently, a week or two at a time, to suit yourself. 3 tons), or sooner if burning a lot of scrap
We sometimes log fuel weights and tem- paper, clay-treated orchard waste, or other
peratures to check for performance changes, high-mineral-content fuels.
compare a new fuel source, or document our The manifold/barrel base is a critical
fuel needs in different weather conditions. area to clean regularly. The nearby cleanout
may be a capped pipe, door, or removable obstructions. White ash or black soot are
tile built into the barrel or brickwork. Some normal, and a small amount of moisture
heaters are built to allow removing the bar- condensation may occasionally be present.
rel itself, or the lid.
• Protect nearby furniture if needed, then

Ash Cleanout Locations
open the cleanout access.
• Remove ash and soot using a Shop-Vac As a pass-down manual for your family and any future main-
with good filters, or a snake and brush. tenance helpers, record the best access points for a person
Inspect as you go for any damaged, sticky, to inspect and clean all parts of the heater. Sketch access
or loose areas. points, or include a photo showing the following parts: fire-
• Work your way down the heater, mak- box, manifold, barrel, bypass, turns, chimney.
ing sure that all channels are clear of
Pooling liquids, sticky tar, or enamel-like common repairs for rocket heaters are sur-
creosote indicate a problem requiring fur- face dings and chips, cracking or loosening
ther work. of the bricks around the fuel feed, and up-
• Replace all caps and reseal any mortar or holstery cleaning and repairs.
gasket joints that were disturbed, making
sure no hardened residues remain that Masonry Surface Inspection
could prevent an airtight seal. Since the outer masonry is the only visible
part, it is the first defense against leaks or
For removable bells and lids, use suit-
cracking. Inspect before each heating season
able, non-flammable seal materials such as:
for cracking, damp, or other signs of dam-
• Braided or woven woodstove door gasket age, and repair as needed.
(seated metal lips) The most common surface cracking will
• Mortar (clay-sand), cob, earthen or lime occur within the first few months after an
plasters (masonry areas) installation, and may indicate improper
• Foil tape*, furnace cement*, or chimney materials or methods (excess clay), settling
cement* (metal-on-metal) in the foundation, or hurried work. We
generally allow the core to dry completely
*Check temperature ratings for suitabili- before beginning the outer casing, so that
ty. Materials rated for 1000°F or higher may any cracks can be repaired or stabilized and
be used on upper barrel, but 300°F foil tape the final layers protected from associated
is only suitable for lower areas. stresses.
Cracking that occurs years into the use-
Inspection and Repairs ful life of the heater may indicate a more
Any object collects a certain amount of serious problem, such as a heavy impact or
Needs repair. damage through use and abuse. The most eroded foundations.
All surface cracks of unknown extent
should be treated as critical to the air seal
of the heater until proven otherwise. At a
minimum, wet the earthen materials and
press down to fill the crack. Repair methods
for traditional masonry are described below,
and more detail and training is available
through the resources listed at the end of
this chapter.
Upholstery
Never use combustible materials around
the combustion unit and manifold, or any-
where that surface temperatures routinely
exceed 120°F.
prefer natural fabrics like denim, cotton

Areas of the heater that remain below canvas, wool, or linen, and natural batting
about 120°F (50°C) can have wood trim, such as cotton or wool. If these materials do
cushions, blankets, or other comfortable pad- overheat, they scorch rather than melt. But
ding added. Monitor closely during the first many owners have used durable synthet-
few burn cycles, though, and again during ic upholstery fabrics. Avoid delicates like
any unusually long burn, to verify that the rayon or acrylic, and avoid spray treatments
temperatures under the insulating cushions like Scotchgard.
stay within acceptable ranges (under 150°F The only reported problems with fabric
[65°C]). Place a hand or thermometer below or wood trim in contact with the heat-ex-
the cushions; it should be comfortably change benches have been localized “hot
warm, not painfully hot. (The insulating spots” where a heat-exchange pipe was less
cushions or fabric trap more heat at the ma- than 3˝ below the masonry surface and the
sonry surface, so the surface temperature heater was fired for an extended period over
increases when cushions are added.) five hours. Some scorching of natural fibers,
All fabrics and padding should be heat and melting of synthetic fabrics, has been
tolerant. Fabrics that can be ironed or tum- observed in these situations. If your heater
ble-dried on “Medium” or “High” settings has any such trouble spots, you may be able
are heat tolerant (up to 350° to 450°F for to fix them with additional masonry thick-
short periods). For the safest results, we ness, or a pad of noncombustible insulation.
Follow fabric directions for upholstery new brick into the same place. If there is a
cleaning. Most owners clean their rocket lot of wiggle room, reset the brick with clay
mass heater bench much the same as they mortar. Reset the bricks above in the same
do their sofa: a quick vacuum or sweep- way.
ing under the cushions and an occasional Fixing It Better: Replacing a single,
spot-cleaning, removing the cushion covers standard firebrick is a pretty simple job.
for a more serious washing if needed. Improved methods may offer slightly better
longevity, if you wish.
Bridge Brick To help protect from thermal expansion,
The most frequently replaced part of a rock- you can bed the sides of this brick in flexible
et mass heater is the first brick in the burn refractory wool or woodstove gasket. Paint-
tunnel. This brick is exposed to cold in- on refractory coatings may also help to
coming air, very hot flames, and rough fuel reflect heat away from the bottom surface.
handling. It may develop a vertical crack To protect from careless fuel loading, it may
over time. be helpful to cut wood smaller or provide
It is generally not necessary to replace the a slight lip sticking out above this brick to
cracked brick unless any part of it becomes take the initial shock.
actually loose, threatening to fall into the A metal air intake known as a “P-Channel”
burn tunnel during a fire. When it is time to is popular with some builders; design details
replace this brick, soak down the masonry from Peter van den Berg are on the forums
Bridge brick start- with water to reduce dust, and remove the at donkey32.proboards.com.
ing to crack, but bricks immediately above the broken brick. Loose bricks can be reset using the same
not yet in need of Carve away any loose material until you can type of mortar. Clean off old mortar, chip
replacement. remove the broken pieces and slide a whole, back any protrusions, wet the surface, and
reapply fresh mortar in a ridge or series of
small lines. Set the brick back in place, and
gently tap it until it is plumb, level, and
square.
Masonry and Plaster Repairs

Among the critical factors in masonry repair
are design for repair, structural integrity,
and dust protection. Dust protection can be
achieved with masks, curtains, and by wet-
ting materials and tools while working.
Masonry repair is a skill that is best
developed with practice. Basic tips are of-
fered below, with more detail in Appendix
1. Local masonry contractors or a regional
masonry heater builder may be your best
resource for renovations and repairs on con- sand:clay. Good garden soil is bad building
ventional masonry. material: avoid silty loams, topsoil, and or-
ganic matter (humus) as much as possible.
Traditional Earthen Masonry Mix thoroughly with a kneading mo-
Many rocket mass heater builders use the tion, usually accomplished by rolling and
original masonry heating materials: local treading on a tarp. For structural areas, add
stone, earth, clay bricks, and clay-bound straw, hair, or other fiber as needed (as much
masonry. Compatible finishes include earth- as can be completely mixed in without
en plaster, lime plaster, tile with breathable clumping).
natural grouts, and other breathable non-syn-
thetic plasters. Testing Cob
DO NOT USE vapor-proof finishes (Wet-formed Earthen Masonry)
like latex, stucco, or oil paints over earthen A handful of good cob has a solid, crunchy
masonry. center; excess clay or water does not goosh
When working with local materials, es- out when it is squeezed. You’ll know it is the
pecially site-sourced mineral soils, record right consistency when it does not change
the source details, amendments, and any any further as you mix it by hand.
other useful information (such as the phone There are a few tests you can make to
number for delivered materials). make sure your cob is ready:
• Ball drop: holds together when dropped
Repairing or Re-shaping
from 4´ height.
Earthen Masonry
• Smear: sticks to lath or fingers, even up-
For deep repairs, to anchor new materials,
side down.
or to replace a sculpted detail such as an
• Stand on it: does it make you taller? When
arm rest, wait until the heater is cool (ideally
the material is stiff enough, it may build
during warm weather). Prepare new material
up on your boots to 1˝ or thicker, and
with plenty of aggregate to prevent shrinkage
you can stand on the pile like a moun-
cracking — test bricks are a very good idea,
tain goat. Too-wet material gives way like
especially if you have not done this before or
a mud puddle; it can be laid out to dry for
are using a different batch of materials.
a while, and used later.
Thermal Cob/Clay-sand Mortar Once the cob passes the above tests,
• Two to five parts* sharp sand you’ll test the cob’s texture by making sam-
• One part clay-rich subsoil dirt* ple bricks of several proportions to find the
• Water as needed to make a stiff dough-like best mix (shrinkage or cracking indicates
mixture excess clay, crumbling indicates silt or sand,
and both together indicate not enough
*Depending on the local geology, we may mixing).
use straight local mineral soils, rock-crusher Small amounts of leftover material may
fines, or sandy blends from 1:1 up to 10:1 be dried and stored for later repairs. To
re-use saved material, moisten the dried ma- as hard as concrete, and it gives off large
terial in a bucket or basin (without too much amounts of dust during demolition, which
excess water) and work it until pliable. Too are not good to breathe. Wet cob is much
much water can wash away clay, weakening easier and safer to remove. If you can’t avoid
the material. Work any excess water back making dust, use good ventilation and/or
into the mix with additional dry material. respiratory protection.
Work the material until it reaches a Once the material softens, start carefully
dough-like consistency. For plaster and digging into the masonry with a garden or
mortar, work in enough water to make a masonry tool until you get to the trouble
thick batter or frosting-like texture. For spot. Use small strokes to avoid damaging
structural repairs, stiffer material (like short- pipes or other buried parts. Repeat the soak-
bread or cookie dough) will fill bigger gaps, ing and digging as needed.
and shrink less. When you have removed the desired
amount of material, leave the surface rough
Repairing Cracks to accept new material. You may wish to
Before repairing a cracked or broken section, carve out jigsaw-like keys to let new material
stop to consider the cause of the cracking. interlock with old, or tapered surface joins
(like scarf joints in woodworking) to increase
• Does the crack open wider each time you
the surface connection. Straight, perpendic-
fire the heater, then shrink as it cools, in-
ular joins are more likely to crack again.
dicating a need for a thermal expansion
Paint the areas to be joined with clay slip
joint? (See below).
(a mixture of clay and water, about the con-
• Does the area have some sculptural detail
sistency of paint or pancake batter). Work
that is inappropriate to handle ordinary
your new material into the repair zone. Use
use and abuse, perhaps calling for a modi-
firm, pushing and smearing motions (don’t
fied design?
pat; it makes a weak join that will fall off
• Was the original material too clay-rich,
again later). If repairing a large section, build
and thus shrank as it dried? Make sure the
ledges like masonry courses, and tie into the
new mix has a lot more sand or fiber to
surrounding material. Stop the rough cob
reduce shrinkage.
at sub-finish level, with room for plaster.
Once you have determined the cause, Smaller cracks can be repaired directly with
gather your materials to repair the situation. leftover plaster from the original batch, for
Wet down the cracked area, and use a stiff better color matching.
brush to remove any loose material. A sim- Feather the new material out along the
ple ding may just require minimal dusting old surface to blend in the repair. Finish the
off and a tiny patch. surface with a steel float, small section cut
Very deep repairs or alterations may re- from a yogurt lid, or other smooth tools to
quire overnight soaking: put damp towels match the rest of the surface.
on the area, draped into a bucket of water Thermal expansion cracks expand when
and/or covered in plastic. Dry cob is almost the stove is hot, then shrink as it cools.
The inside of the stove naturally gets hot-

ter and expands more than the outside. If
there is no space between the two layers, the
outside will crack when the inside expands.
You can recognize thermal expansion cracks
because they get larger when the stove is
hot, then shrink when it cools.
For small cracks, you may simply be able
to patch the crack while the heater is hot.
Fill the expanded crack while it’s at its wid-
est, forcing sandy plaster or cob into it, and
keeping the heater hot until the filled area
dries hard.
If cracking persists, you may need to add
a flexible expansion joint (made with re-
fractory insulation or a cardboard-filled air
gap) to give the inner parts room to expand.
Metal-to-masonry joins are particularly
prone to unequal expansion. You can ei-
ther remove the original casing to install the
expansion joint and then rebuild it, or just
build up around it for a larger final mass.
Lay a piece of flexible refractory insula-
tion, or woven fiberglass gasket, around the
corners or edges of metal and bricks that will
get hot, to make room for these elements to
expand and shrink. Build up the outer ma-
sonry casing around these materials, taking
care to preserve the flex space between core
and casing.
When building with a good fiber-rich
cob, we just fire up the heater several times
while the cob is still pliable, using thermal
expansion to set the finished dimensions.
Most masons would consider this cheating,
but it works for us. If we are not able to
wet-fire the heater (for example when using
refractory cements that require a cool curing
time), then we need to provide expansion
joints around the manifold and firebox areas. Repairing Cracks — photos courtesy of heater owners.
Redecorating or Refinishing another coat later if you want more cover-

Sometimes you just have too many dings age. Reworking areas where the paint is still
and scratches, and run out of matching wet can cause the brush to pick up the ma-
plaster biscuits to repair them. Or you’re in- terial from below, creating discolorations or
spired to try a fresh new look. Or both. peeling. Brushes work better than rollers.
Plasters give a more durable coating, and
Refinishing Earthen Masonry also offer the option of adding some tile or
Permeable surface finishes like earth or lime sculptural detail for a bigger style change.
plaster can be refinished with a similar plas- Scratch the surface up before plastering, to a
ter, or with compatible, breathable natural depth similar to the thickness of new materi
plaster or natural paint, such as clay-paint, al you want to add. (If someone has used a
lime plasters or whitewash, milk paints, or lot of oil and wax in the previous finish, you
diluted water-washable paints such as egg may need to “sand” the surface more deep-
tempera. (Do not use latex, acrylic, or oil ly to remove the oily layer. You can make
paints: they are not breathable enough. If a giant sanding block for earthen masonry
they don’t peel off, they can trap moisture in by wrapping expanded-metal mesh around
the heater and cause deeper soft spots and a 2 x 4 block of wood, and adding a sturdy
blisters over time.) handle.)
Paints can be applied directly onto the Before applying plasters, prime the
dry surface, but may tend to wear badly in roughened surface with clay slip (using a
seating areas. With earthen masonry, just stiff paintbrush allows you to remove loose
paint one coat at a time; let it dry; then add material at the same time). Plaster is best
Material sources for this heater:____________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Local earth/clay source:__________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Local sand/gravel source:_________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Other material sources (ceramic clay, mineral pigments, etc.):___________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Samples/patch material:_________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
(Where do we keep them?)_______________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
worked wet onto wet. Small tiles (no deeper burnish to a semi-gloss or even glossy finish
than the plaster layer) can have their backs if you like, using steel floats or a glass bottle
coated with clay slip and be worked into the or smooth stone.
wet plaster for mosaic or harder-wearing You can do a clear or tinted “varnish”
surface areas. over these materials with soap paste (mix
Work the plaster firmly into place with hot water with soap until it resembles the
your hands or plastering tools. Create a scum in the soap dish), milk paint or egg
smooth surface with steel floats or plastic tempera, or a light coating of a drying oil
tools, keeping the tools wet while working. such as linseed or poppy seed oil. Dilute
Once the material is leather hard, you can the materials well, and work them in well,
Batch Recipe Notes

Record amounts and ingredients used for locally sourced materials:
to avoid peeling or spotting. Bear in mind • blocked chimney? Clogged spark-arres-

that clear coats will change the surface color, tor screen?
usually making it darker, and will also make • correct chimney height and tempera-
it more work to replaster again later. ture. An outdoor chimney which is
See also Appendix 1. cool to the touch, or shorter than near-
by roof vents, may draft downward or
Troubleshooting stall.
The most common or easiest solution is Consult a reputable builder for help
given first, followed by the increasingly “bad checking the system design and dimen-
news” solutions. sions, and verify its suitability for your
1) My heater won’t light! (or) The fire burns building situation and climate.
straight up into the room, or goes out.
2) My heater started fine, but now it’s letting
Operation:
smoke back into the room!
See operating instructions, including
See above operation and maintenance
how to size and prepare dry firewood,
tips, then consider the following:
and how to prime or check draft before
starting the heater. If the mass is cooler • Water condensation in the exit chim-
than outside air, see cold start instruc- ney can cause chimney stalls (even very
tions, above. dry wood gives off more than half its
Maintenance: weight in water when burned). Make
Clean the system thoroughly to check for sure the exit chimney is warm, as well
blockages. as the firebox and mass.
• Wet fuel will steam and boil out the
• Clean ash out of the firebox and man- ends. Use only properly dry, seasoned
ifold, leaving ¼˝ of ash on the firebox fuel.
floor. • Is fuel shorter than the firebox feed,
• Clear all channels of blockages (nesting so you can operate the air controls
vermin, paper ash); probe hidden areas. effectively?
• Remove the barrel or lid to check for • Keep the firebox full of wood. Set the
blockages or ash buildup, including air-control opening in proportion to
on top of the heat riser. Check the the fire intensity. Most heaters operate
heat riser insulation and manifold for best with the air between 100% and
damage. 20% open; leave at least a 1˝ slot open
Construction: at all times while the fire is burning.
Check for building/chimney problems • Actively monitor the fire for the first
such as: 20 minutes, until everything is up to
• negative pressure: open a window temperature. Fuel may wedge in the
(downstairs and upwind); turn off vent feed instead of dropping properly into
fans; close any upstairs windows the fire. Rattle the kindling to drop
any half-burned pieces, and load more other problems you may see (blockages,
wood behind, big ends down to avoid damage, air leaks), then reseal the mani
wedging. fold. A fresh interior coating of mortar
• Watch odd shaped wood. Sawn lumber or earthen plaster can quickly reseal the
scraps can become a “damper” (wide, manifold, easier than hunting down in-
flat pieces placed to block the air) or dividual leaks.
“chimney” (isolated vertical channels Negative building pressure: Tall buildings
between hot pieces of wood). Use nat- with leaky upper floors, or unbalanced
ural rounds or splits to separate sawn mechanical vents in any building, can
pieces and keep the air flowing evenly draw air and smoke backwards through
downward between all the fuel. the heater. Open a window/door on the
• Piled-up ash, embers, or charcoal can upwind side of the building. Shut any
block the burn tunnel. Bore an air upstairs windows. Turn off exhaust fans,
hole through any such blockage with such as kitchen or bathroom vent fans.
a poker or stick. To avoid this prob- If adjusting the available air fixes the
lem, clean ash to ¼˝ before lighting problem, the permanent solution may
the fire, and use moderate-sized fuel involve balancing the home’s ventilation
once the fire is established (wrist-sized with a heat-exchanging air supply, and
or larger). weatherizing upstairs to reduce hot air
If none of the above actions fixes the leaks.
problem, you will need to consider some- Chimneys: Is your exit chimney warm,
what larger issues. tall, and well insulated from where it exits
the building to well above the roof ridge?
Maintenance: Is it cleaning time? After Chimneys near or below the roof eaves
the fire is out cold, CLEAN EVERY are subject to incredible wind eddies,
THING (inside and out). gusts, and pressure disadvantages. If wind
Construction: Certain fundamental affects your heater performance, consider
errors can cause the heater not to draft a better chimney, or a bypass to heat up
properly. your chimney when needed. We strongly
Stagnation: If smoke chokes the fire recommend locating the chimney in-
about 30–45 minutes after lighting, a side the building for the majority of its
problem in the combustion unit may length, to reduce problems with heat loss
be causing the exhaust to stagnate as the to outside air. Exits near the roof ridge
heater reaches full temperature. Air leaks, are often the most successful performers,
inadequate insulation on the heat riser, and easiest to protect from leaks.
improper barrel coverings (too much in- Proportions: Is your firebox correctly
sulation near the outside of the barrel), proportioned and insulated? Does the
or over-ambitious heat extraction can all manifold provide a generous flow area
cause this problem. Remove the barrel, from barrel to duct, with some extra
insulate the heat riser and correct any room for fly ash? Have you avoided weird
turns, bottlenecks, corrugated sections, and reapplying a fresh coat of mortar or

or mismatched ducting anywhere in the plaster.
heater? Improper proportions often cause Sometimes it’s easier to replaster or
performance problems. repoint the casing masonry, to create a
secondary seal, if there are small leaks
3) My heat-exchange mass leaks smoke, or
that are hard to find. See “Refinishing
smells funny.
Earthen Masonry” above.
New heaters: Newly built heaters often Mildew and mold: Damp conditions
steam gently until the cob dries out, with inadequate ventilation encourage
which takes time. The smells involved are mold growth. In dry conditions, clay-
distinctive. Earthy, damp, or mild “barn- based masonry remains dry and hard, and
yard” smells are normal, depending on helps regulate indoor moisture by “breath-
the ingredients used. Smoke or mildew ing” slightly. However, damp problems
odors suggest a problem. can occur in any building.
Cold smoke: A building with nega- First, remedy the damp problem.
tive pressure problems can draw smoky Every building needs adequate roofing,
smells backwards down any chimney, damp-resistant footings, and good drain-
especially when the chimney or heater age away from the building site. Look for
is cold. (See “Cold Starts” above, and blocked gutters, improper foundation
“Smoke and Depleted Oxygen,” below.) details, building materials in contact with
If smoky smells come from the heater’s ground damp, leaking pipes, improper
feed opening when the heater is not in chimney or window detailing, conden-
use, see “Negative building pressure” and sation of warm moist air in unventilated
“Chimneys,” above. spaces or against cold membrane bar-
Leaks: If smoke is seen or detected riers, or any other source of damp. Use
coming from the body of the heater, locally-proven methods to eliminate the
ventilate the room well with outside air, damp problem.
and let the fire continue burning slowly After creating dry, well-ventilated con-
while you try to find the source of the ditions, remove any remaining moldy or
leak (check the barrel, manifold, and damaged material. Treat the remaining,
cleanout areas). After the fire is out, in- structurally sound material with 3%
spect for signs of leaks: black soot streaks hydrogen peroxide and borax/water solu-
outside the ducting, or bare traces of tion to destroy and inhibit mold spores.
air leaks in the soot on the inside of the Repair the damaged area using com-
channels. patible material.
Most air leaks occur near exposed pipe
such as cleanout caps. Use woven wood- 4) How do I take something apart to clean it,
stove gasket to line any leaky connections repair it, or redecorate the heater?
between metal parts. Patch masonry leaks See “Maintenance, Inspection, and Repair,”
by removing loose material, wetting, above.
5) I’m tired of this weird mud bench/big steel type of heater as described in Chapters
drum in my living room. How do I hide it, 4 and 6. We recommend testing any
make it look better, or get rid of it? proposed changes, one at a time, in a
The bench and heater are a unit. Substantial full-scale outdoor mock-up before try-
alterations to either part can make it not ing them indoors.
work. Surface repairs and refinishing are The building also influences the heat-
described above under “Maintenance, er’s behavior; see Chapters 3 and 4.
Inspection, and Repair.”
The barrel can be painted, decorated, 7) At first my heater didn’t warm up, but now
or hidden behind a suitable heat shield it’s working again. What’s going on?
such as fireplace screen, ceramic tile, or Thermal mass lag time: Mass is great
decorative metal panels. Or it can be re- at stabilizing temperature, either hot or
placed with a custom metal bell. See the cold; the same property means it doesn’t
Barrel Decorating Design Challenge in respond quickly to changes. We call this
Appendix 6. long, slow power-up and power-down the
We are sometimes asked about elimi- “thermal flywheel” effect. This time lag
nating metals entirely in favor of ceramics works in our favor to hold heat overnight,
or other materials. To do this successfully and to provide cooling during the peak
requires expensive components and pro- heat of summer days, but it’s not always
totyping; consider a different, time-tested convenient when returning from vacation.
masonry heater design such as a contra- When starting from scratch to heat a
flow heater. cold heater mass, it usually takes a day,
To remove or replace the entire heater, with one or two firings, to reach full op-
follow the soaking and digging demolition erating temperature. The hottest surface
methods outlined above under “Repairing temperatures may occur 4 to 6 hours after
Cracks,” using a pickaxe or jackhammer the hottest point in the burn cycle, so don’t
in place of hand tools. overdo it on the first fire of the season.
Safety note: Because rocket mass heat- During the heating season, masonry
ers exhaust at a lower temperatures, the heaters work best when used routinely
through-roof or through-wall fittings used (several times per week). Avoid letting
by an RMH installer may not be suitable the heater cool completely until you are
for a woodstove or other appliance. Please ready to switch over to summer cooling
have a qualified person inspect before re-us- function.
ing an existing chimney. Weird draft changes: Over time, ash
can block parts of the system, and require
6) We changed the heater, and now it doesn’t cleaning. Vermin sometimes build nests
work right. How do I make it work? in heaters if the exhaust is not properly
a) Change it back. screened. Weather affects draft too: most
b) Check whether a proposed change falls heaters draft best when the mass and
within the workable parameters for this chimney are warmer than outside air, so
a cold day usually gives better draft. A Something may be blocked or dam-
heater that is optimized for winter draft aged, reducing draft and air needed for
balance may be difficult to start in sum- clean combustion.
mery weather. 3. At the beginning of the fire, use very dry
Fuel changes: If you’ve switched to kindling and fill the firebox. At the end
lighter or wetter wood, expect to get less of the fire, reduce the air flow to keep
heat from the barrel and heater. the coals warm enough to burn clean.
4. Over-draft can cause incomplete com-
8) There’s smoke coming out my chimney, or bustion in heaters that are too short
soot in the pipes. Is that bad? horizontally, or have a too-tall heat
Smoke, or fog? riser or exit chimney in a cold climate.
Rocket mass heaters should not smoke
during the main part of the burn cycle, Self-Training: Good operators go out-
except possibly for a few minutes after side to check for smoke from the chimney
loading cold fuel. periodically, to train themselves on the
White fog or clear steam can be part of most smoke-free fire-tending techniques
a normal, clean burn. White fog that is for their heater, and to adjust those tech-
mostly water will dissipate (dissolve and niques for new fuels, weather, or firing
disappear) as it leaves the chimney area patterns. With careful practice, it is pos-
— rarely more than 20 feet of plume, no sible to burn a smoke-free fire in almost
lingering smell. any firebox; the J-style rocket just makes
Smoke is usually colored (blue, grey, it significantly easier.
black, pale whitish, or even brown). The
9) My heater doesn’t behave in ___________
color remains in the air as the plume
weather conditions.
moves away from the chimney. It may
spread out, but does not disappear. Smoke A heater that doesn’t behave in ordinary
has a distinctive smell, and may make eyes weather conditions, like your prevailing
sting or water. winter winds, needs to be remedied.
Smoke often deposits inside the heat- Inadequate chimney? See “Chimneys”
er as black soot. A small amount of dry and “Negative building pressure,” above.
(not sticky) soot is normal, though less is Chimneys that exit below a nearby roof
better. eave or building will almost invariably ex-
Smoke Diagnostics: perience gusts from the wrong direction
1. Dry wood is essential. Never burn wet, in some weather conditions.
frozen, green, or unseasoned wood. Draft balance is also affected by the
Changes in fuel may require some prac- length of thermal mass and the resulting
tice to find the right fuel and air mixture exit chimney temperature. If your chim-
to prevent smoke. ney is too cool to produce strong draft, it
2. Creosote (sticky, tar-like deposits) in will be more affected by adverse weath-
the pipes indicates an ongoing problem. er. See “Cold Starts” above — consider a
bypass or by-the-bell exit chimney, or a in the blood over time, impairing the body’s
less ambitious thermal mass. ability to absorb fresh oxygen.
A few climates have truly weird weath- Symptoms of CO exposure or depleted
er, like sudden downdrafts during/after oxygen include fatigue, irritability, head-
thunderstorms, which rattle the walls and ache, nausea, lethargy, dizziness or faintness,
may push air backwards through almost passing out or being hard to wake up. If any-
any chimney system. Thankfully, such one experiences these symptoms, ventilate
extreme weather is generally rare and the area with fresh air, and get everyone out-
brief. If possible, let your weather-eye side. (You will effectively get stupider, and
dictate the best time to operate the heat- sleepier, with prolonged smoke inhalation.)
er, so you can coast through the storms Never leave the fire unattended. Don’t
on stored heat. Start-up and shut-down “store” smoke in any heater, or attempt
are the most delicate times for the stove’s to shut down a fire while unburned fuel
draft, so the next best option may be to remains. Allow the fire to burn out com-
keep the fire going as normal, and ven- pletely, with adequate air, before shutting
tilate the room if there’s an unavoidable the heater down at bedtime.
puff of smoke. One of the benefits of thermal mass heat
is that you can freshen the air as much as
10) Our cob cracked a lot as our heater dried
you want, without losing your stored heat.
out. How do we fix it?
Clear the air as soon as possible after any
Why are cracks forming? Widespread smoke exposure; even if the outdoor air is
cracks may indicate too much clay in the well below freezing, the mass will soon warm
mix, causing shrinkage as it dries. Cracks the room again.
that swell and contract near the hottest Unproven Design Disclaimer: This book
points of the heater indicate a thermal cannot cover all possible variations of wood-
expansion problem. Random cracking or burning heaters, or the consequences of
detachment of parts of the project may improvised design “improvements.” New
indicate poor technique (loosely patting designs need careful prototyping and cal-
materials into place, instead of working ibration. Sharing the information we’ve
them into solid contact with the sur- gained from our experiments does not make
faces below). See “Masonry and Plaster us responsible for others’ work.
Repairs,” above.
Resources
Smoke and Depleted Oxygen: The performance of a rocket mass heat-
What’s the problem with a little smoke in er reflects its builders’ skill and intentions,
the house? I like that “wood-smoke” smell. the operator’s attention to fire tending and
But avoid breathing smoke or combustion maintenance, and the knowledge available
exhaust. Even invisible “clean” exhaust con- when it was built.
tains some reactive molecules like carbon For more details, read the rest of this
monoxide (CO). These toxins can build up book and consider looking through the
original Rocket Mass Heaters by Ianto Evans Online references such as permies.com,
and Leslie Jackson. practitioner websites, and members of the
Ongoing research and discussion may be Cob Cottage Company, www.cobcottage.
found online: www.rocketstoves.com, www. com.
permies.com, www.ErnieAndErica.info
(Note that www.rocketstove.com (sin- Further Help
gular) is a reference for smaller, lightweight If you need help assessing or remodeling
cooking and portable “rocket stoves,” and at your heater, completing all the blank sec-
the time of this writing does not offer cur- tions in this chapter will give you a very
rent information on rocket mass heaters for good place to start, before contacting out-
thermal-mass heat storage.) side experts for advice. Most of the current
Methods and instructions for work- experts can be found through the above
ing with earthen masonry can be found in sources.
Chapter 4 and Appendix 1 of this book. We recommend builders make at least
You should also check natural building ref- two copies of their own manual for each
erences such as The Cobber’s Companion, heater: one for the builder to keep for future
The Hand-Sculpted House, The Cob Builder’s reference, and one to leave by the stove for
Handbook, or The Natural Plasters Book. all operators’ convenience.
Annex 6” Rocket Mass
Heater, photo by
Kacy Ritter
Bonny 8” Convection
Bench. All photos
of this heater are
from “How to Build
Rocket Mass Heaters”
DVD, used by kind
permission of
Calen Kennett and
www.villagevideo.org.
Finished Cabin 8” heater with
brass filigree. (Copper and brass
do not emit heat as well as dark,
weathered steel. This black-and-
brass version gives better heat
output than the copper cladding.)
Detail: The barrel is decorated with ceramic bangles
on stainless wire (photo by Adi Segal).
Top left: Cabin 8” heater, in progress,

with copper barrel cladding.
Bottom: A mediterranean-climate design from Israel, as built

by Adiel Shnior, Amit Pompan, and Nitzan Isrovitch in 2013.
Photo by Adi Segal.
This greenhouse heater has a brick wall separating the firebox wooden spreaders take the weight of small-scale aquaponic
and barrel from the growing area. Brick stem walls, tiles, and growing tanks. Photos courtesy of project owner.
Top left: View from tipi entry, October 2015, courtesy of Priscilla Smith.
priscillasmithphotography.com
Top right and bottom: A rocket mass heater in a tipi – in winter is far from sensible, the experience impresses visitors
Montana – a year-round glamor camping feature. While with the effectiveness of thermal mass heat storage.
heating an un-insulated tipi (which is itself designed like a Tipi and panoramic compilation photos copyright 2015,
chimney, for summer ventilation) through a snowy Montana Arthur Held and Thomas Ferguson.
Construction views showing our example heater from Chapter 4
(also known as the Wofati 8” Heater). This heater was built during
a teaching workshop, photos by author and students.
Wood floor is cut away leaving level, non-combustible

supports. A bed of perlite-clay insulation is prepared
for the firebox.
Ceramic fiber blanket insulation, supported by wire mesh, surrounds

the lower firebox. A modified elbow connects the cleanout T and the
cut-barrel manifold, with a good 4” gap.
Brick firebox floor pad and bench pipes in place,

including two of the cleanout access points.
Firebox completed to the bridge course, and the Heat riser and insulation, barrel, and cob. This is the sub-finish
manifold barrel is cut to fit the bricks and pipe stage: now we let the core dry before adding tile or plaster.
After the first winter of use, the occupants
reported they were able to keep this uninsulated
log structure warmer than they had ever been
able to do with their previous wood-burning
stove, while using about one fifth the amount
of fuel/wood. (Imagine how cozy it will be now
that they’ve insulated the exposed walls!)
Top: Finish plaster: an earth and fiber

plaster, more comfortable and breathable
than concrete.
Bottom: Wofati 8” Heater (as shown in

step-by-step construction below).
Photo by kind permission of Priscilla Smith,
copyright 2015 Priscilla Smith,
www.priscillasmithphotography.com
Lighting the Fire
1. Inspect the heater and clean the firebox
(leave ¼˝ of ash).
2. Use a candle or tinder to establish draft.

Tuck lighted tinder partway into the
burn tunnel. Draft is working when
the flames pull away from you, toward
the heat riser.
3. Drop kindling onto the burning tinder.

Set the sticks vertically against the
tunnel opening.
4. Once kindling is burning, add larger

fuel behind the fire.
5. Load fresh logs behind the burning fuel.

Re–load as needed, using the largest
practical logs.
6. Adjust air flow if needed — at least ¹⁄₃

open throughout the main burn. A full
fuel load and full–open air allows the
fire to self–regulate.
7. As the fire burns down, reduce air flow.
8. When the fire is done, close the feed

opening.
Chapter 6
Rules and Codes
Introduction: Types of Rules and effects of moisture on all these materi
T here are several kinds of rules that

we use when building a high-perfor-
mance heater.
als and processes. Next there’s the human
factor: resources, time, budget, tolerances
and preferences, skill and interest, range of
expectations.
• Rules of thumb, derived from practice
Modeling the whole system in the ab-
• Natural laws and descriptive rules: “as a
stract is almost as complicated as predicting
general rule, things work like this ...”
the weather. So we fall back on empirical
• Legal rules: building codes, regulations,
testing: change one thing, see what hap-
and local laws
pens, learn and try again. We look for useful
• “Unwritten rules” of social/cultural norms
rules in related industries — HVAC, ma-
(not discussed here, almost by definition).
sonry heating, fluid dynamics. We look for
Rules are human constructs: symbolic patterns to define as rules of thumb, but
models of a situation. Real, natural forces we don’t always know what’s relevant. One
don’t always follow the rules in our heads. builder may develop a rule based on linear
In designing a heater for a household, we dimensions, another uses surface area, an-
work to balance dozens of effects: gravity, other uses volume. Over time, we discover
convection, heat-induced thermosiphoning which rules are most accurate and useful.
and stagnation; radiant heat transfer; con- The design rules in this book are young
ductivity and insulation; laminar flow and — a few dozen years in the testing, at most.
pressure differences; state changes like evap- There is still plenty of room for improve-
oration, melting, and condensation; stresses ment. There will always be refinements
like compression, shear, tension, friction; and exceptions to these rules. We’ve given
uneven heat expansion; the whole complex some of the background math equations
chemistry of combustion; and the presence in Appendix 5, and in Appendix 3 we’ve
137
profiled some successful projects that fall

outside the scope of our general guidelines.
The legal rulings that affect these heaters,
such as building codes and clean-air regula-
tions, are also the result of fallible human
effort to understand and mitigate serious
hazards. Every person involved has their
own biases, expertise or lack thereof, and in-
terests. Most of the people who made these
laws had never seen a rocket mass heater.
At the time of this writing, several juris-
dictions have issued permits for rocket mass
heaters, and several certified masonry heater
builders are working with rocket-type de-
signs ... but there is no universal consensus
about how the various codes apply to the
peculiarities of this design.
Historic Masonry Heating

A Swedish kakkelofen built by Flemming Abrahamsson, photo Masonry heating has a long history. Floor-
courtesy Leslie Jackson. heaters and heated platforms such as the
Chinese k’ang, Roman hypocaust, and
Afghani tawakhenah are at least 2,000 years
old. Royally-sponsored competitions in the
modern era produced highly refined designs
including German and Austrian kacheloven,
Swedish and Finnish contraflow heaters,
and a range of Russian fireplaces and ma-
sonry stoves. Masonry heater designs blend
with masonry bake-ovens across Europe and
Asia, warming both food and home. Each of
these designs is worthy of its own book.
Before building any masonry heater, it
is well worth studying both the time-tested
designs available and the features and life-
styles that their designers wanted. David
Lyle’s The Book of Masonry Stoves is an ex-
cellent resource, as is the North American
A custom bell-style masonry heater with bench, built by Max Edleson, Masonry Heater Association (www.mha-
photo courtesy Firespeaking.com net.org) or similar regional associations.
Rules and Codes 139
A classic Russian masonry heater with oven,

cook-stove, and bed platform (the platform is
not visible in this view; it’s hidden behind the
two visible faces of this heater, above the
deep oven). This drawing is based on a
contemporary project built by Pavel Kruglov;
originally shared on Facebook.
Regional differences and cultural values

may affect not only the design, but also the
performance expectations for efficiency, op-
erator skill, and safety. For example, is fuel
efficiency a safety concern? Some German,
Austrian, and sub-Arctic design standards
require complete air controls at the top of
the chimney for efficiency, which requires a
vigilant operator to manually adjust them
at the end of the fire. Improper use of a
top closure damper can cause deadly CO
poisoning, but in these regions inefficient
heaters historically caused deadly winter
fuel shortages: it’s a choice of dangers.
In milder climates, coastal areas, and
in recently settled areas accustomed to the
modern abundance of natural and fos-
sil fuels, sometimes local regulations may
prohibit the use of a complete top damper
or closer, with air controlled only from the
fuel door/intake side. In North America, A cosy contraflow heater with bench and oven, built by Eric
the most common type of pivoting dampers Moshier, image courtesy SolidRockMasonry.com.
are legally required to permit a minimum of

15% flow, to prevent CO poisoning of inex-
pert operators and their households. Designs
built around these requirements emphasize
safety and ease of operation, at some sacrifice
of efficiency, control, and heat retention.
(Inefficient operators may also contrib-
ute more to local particulate pollution and
A soapstone global CO2 pollution; this demonstrates
tiled heater another aspect of American building codes,
with oven, built which protect the occupants first, some-
around the Solid times at the expense of their neighbors.)
Rock Masonry A masonry heater is still an unusual de-
Heater core kit vice in most North American regions, and
by Eric Moshier, may not be “grandfathered in” to newer
image courtesy building codes, as is more common in
SolidRock Europe. Availability and cost of parts, com-
Masonry.com. bined with the shorter time frame that most
North Americans expect to own a home, can
make owners baulk at the price estimates for
a full-scale masonry heater.
Rocket mass heaters were developed to
address both cost and efficiency concerns,
making the most of readily available, recy-
cled, and local materials. They began their
development with Ianto Evans in the 1970s,
as an offshoot of efficient “rocket stoves” for
primitive kitchens. About the same time,
the EPA was created, and it began regulat-
ing woodstoves and some other solid-fueled
appliances; also at that time, the mason-
ry heater builders were drafting the first
ASTM (American Society for Testing and
A corner con- Materials) standards for masonry heaters. As
traflow heater a result, many known, traditional masonry
with oven, built heater designs were used to develop the cur-
by Eric Moshier, rent codes, while others have been designed
image courtesy after the fact to meet them, but rocket mass
SolidRock heater designs are coming along from out-
Masonry.com. side. This leaves them even more ground to
Rules and Codes 141
A Cabin Stove with sidewinder-style rocket firebox, cooktop, and

bench, built by Max Edleson of FireSpeaking.com.
Builder Lasse Holmes working on the core of a small
make up in jurisdictions that are unfamiliar sidewinder-rocket with warming oven, cooktop, and
with the whole masonry heating concept. thermal mass bench.
For example, if you live in a jurisdiction
where the local building officials have de-
cided to only approve UL-listed appliances
instead of learning to work with the IRC
masonry heater codes and ASTM standards,
and you want their approval, your project
choices may be limited to one of two brands
of masonry heater — from the companies
big enough to have developed UL-listed
core kits. In other areas, any certified heater
mason may be able to sell you a kit, or plans,
that meet code, and act as the legal supervi-
sor for your DIY project. And there are still
a few revolutionary places that follow the
ancient traditions: home owners can build
their own heaters to suit themselves.
Most rocket mass heaters to date have The sidewinder cookstove and bench heater, with a couple of happy
been relatively experimental, built by campers, at Wheaton Labs. This rocket-without-a-barrel masonry
owner-builders in off-grid or non-permitted heater is an ongoing design collaboration between Lasse Holmes, Max
structures. Reports of their efficiency and Edleson, Kiko Denzer, Peter van den Berg, and others.
function are mainly anecdotal from these proportions and rules of thumb. Design
sources. We have worked and correspond- changes outside these limits may have unin-
ed with hundreds of builders to document tended consequences.
the most consistent and reliable methods For any design modification not
for building these heaters. A lot of experi described here (or described only in the ap-
mentation is still possible, and, doubtless, pendices), we recommend testing a full-scale
improvements will be discovered. prototype in a safe place before committing
The release of this Builder’s Guide does to any permanent installation. (Test well
not mean the journey is complete! But we beyond “normal” use, ideally 3+ days in a
have recently seen a tipping point where row. A wet or leaky prototype may not rep-
the accepted “good design” seems to have resent dry/cured performance, and the point
stabilized. New builders are more likely of prototyping is to discover any potential
to replicate known errors than to contrib- problems.)
ute useful improvements. So it seems time
to document our work to date, and work Combustion Unit and
toward widespread acceptance of the most Channel Proportions
practical, affordable, and effective versions The primary design constraints are with the
of this design. cross-sectional area: Every channel in the
system must provide the minimum cross
Rules of Thumb: sectional area for flow. The downdraft area
Builder’s Guidelines inside the barrel and manifold must be at
The rules of thumb presented here are the least the size of this area, but may be signifi-
result of experience and successful guess- cantly larger.
work. Breaking more than two rules at once Our 8˝ inside diameter (ID) system has
makes it more difficult to diagnose any re- channels with a cross-sectional area (CSA) of
sulting problems. about 50 square inches. The firebox channels
Site-built heaters are complex, and they match this CSA, as do all ducts and chimney
require skill and judgment from their design- parts (8˝ ID). The bell interior and mani-
er/builder. Most owners are drawn to rocket fold connection areas must have at least this
mass heaters by their reported efficiency, but same CSA for realistic flow, though prefera-
may not understand how that efficiency is bly larger in areas where turns or fly ash may
achieved. If owners balk at something critical cause flow restrictions.
to the heater’s function, such as proportions, Give special attention to these spots,
size, mass, exhaust detailing, location, or dry using the 8˝ ID example:
fuel storage, they risk poor performance and
may even compromise safety. • The firebox opening: all brick channels
(burn tunnel, feed, and heat riser) are 7
Design Constraints x 7.5 inches, or a similar rectangle such
Each type of masonry heater from around as 6.5˝ x 8˝ (the extra few square inches
the world has its own carefully worked-out allow for ash and turbulent flow)
Rules and Codes 143
• The gap between barrel and heat riser The firebox dimensions for 6˝, 7˝, 8˝,
(imagine this as a paper crown, 2˝ tall by and similar-sized systems can be generalized
25˝ circumference) into a set of Proportional Rules:
• The slot-like opening from barrel into
manifold (at least 5˝×10˝; 4˝×13˝; 3˝×17˝; • The (minimum) correct heat riser height
or 2˝×25˝) is at least three times the height of the fuel
feed and at least twice as long as the burn
• The opening from manifold into duct (at
tunnel.
least 4˝ clearance in front of duct for good
flow). • Proportions are NOT 1:2:3; the burn
tunnel would be too long. Correct pro-
Watch the same trouble spots for a 6˝ ID portions are 1:1.5:3+, or 2:3:6+.
system, with a CSA of 28 square inches:
• For our 8˝ example heater, the sizes that fit
• The firebox opening is 5˝×6˝ or 5.5˝×5.5˝ this ratio are a 16˝ feed height, a 24˝ burn
(choice usually depends on brick dimen- tunnel length, and a 48˝ heat riser height.
sions) • With a common 23˝ x 34˝ metal barrel,
• The heat riser gap is 1.5 to 1.75 inches tall the entire combustion unit footprint is
• The manifold-to-pipe transition needs to about 33˝ wide by 48˝ long. The height
be at least 3˝ wide (smooth, slot-like tran- from level foundations to the top of the
sitions could be 3˝×10˝, 2˝×15˝, or 4˝×7˝) barrel is about 54˝.
Heat-exchange Channel Length

For an 8˝ ID system, start with 50 feet. into the wind, and/or exposed outdoor sections do not
−5 for Turns: Subtract 5 feet for each right angle offer a bonus and may induce back-flow.)
(90°) turn (adjustable elbow or capped T). For an 180° −10 Hot Days/Cold Starts: A cold start is when the
turn (down and back) we subtract 10 feet. mass is colder than outside air (may occur in warm
−10 for Unnecessary Roughness: Avoid corrugated climates, long absences, or occasional-use buildings).
material — it creates enormous drag. For each foot of Shorten these systems by about 10 feet, to about 20
corrugated material, subtract 10 feet. feet total, or provide priming options as described in
+10 Good Chimney Bonus: Tall, warm, straight. Chapter 5 under “Cold Starts.”
Located near the bell; rises vertically inside the building
For a 6˝ ID system, start with 35 to 40 feet, and
before exiting near the roof top. Add 5 feet of horizon-
adjust the same way:
tal length for every 15 feet of warm, vertical chimney,
−5 per 90° Turn
or a total of 10 feet for the average well-built chimney
−10 Unnecessary Roughness
inside the average well-built home. (Low chimneys,
+5/10 Good Chimney Bonus
those subject to cooling, any pointing horizontally
−10 Hot Days/Cold Starts
Moderate Roughness • Airtight seals, including expansion joints

Brick, ceramic tile, adobe, and other materi- where needed
als have been used but are not as smooth as • Materials, clearances, and thicknesses for
duct-lined channels. Consistent cross-sec- safe temperatures and adequate thermal
tional area and smooth flow (both turns and storage (usually 4˝ to 5˝ masonry thickness)
textures) may provide similar performance • Effective placement and exposure of fire-
to our typical metal-pipe lined channels; box, bell, seating, and cleanouts within
for example, brick or adobe channels can building.
be built just slightly oversize, with room
to smoothly plaster the inside before cap- Discussion of Rules of Thumb: Correct
ping the channels. Unlined brick channels Cross-sectional Area for Gas Flow
might call for a shorter overall length, due Think of cross-sectional area (CSA) as the
to friction along the sides. A masonry heater smallest piece of paper with which you
rule of thumb is that horizontal brick chan- could block the exhaust flow. The simplest
nels can usually run about 20 feet overall workable method for rocket mass heaters is
length. to use the same minimum cross-sectional
We do not currently have rules of thumb area throughout all the channels.
for proportioning “bell” (hot-air-trap) or The barrel and manifold area may be larg-
“plenum” (wide horizontal cavity) designs; er (but not smaller). A system CSA of 150%
however, Peter van den Berg’s surface-ar- is a reasonable minimum for exhaust flow
ea calculations may be very useful (see where it changes direction from the barrel to
Appendix 3, and ongoing discussion at the ducting, to avoid restriction due to tur-
donkey32.proboards.com). Masonry heater bulence. Some heater builders think of the
research and prototyping are encouraged. barrel as a true bell, in the masonry heater
Minimum Length: No absolute min- sense — a place for the exhaust to stratify
imum. 15 to 20 feet is a relatively short and give up some of its heat. For bell-like
system, with hotter exhaust. Under about performance, the target would be more like
12 feet you may find the exhaust very hot, 400% of system CSA, which doesn’t fit eas-
heat storage less, and draft overly strong. ily into a 23-inch-diameter barrel. We have
not yet found an upper limit on the volume
Other Layout Priorities that can be tolerated in the barrel and man-
• Cleanouts must be located to give access ifold area, though an extremely large bell
to all system parts with tools like flexible might in theory rob too much heat, and re-
brushes or a vacuum hose: quire a proportionally shorter bench.
b at the bottom of each vertical drop Systems of 6,˝ 7,˝ or 8˝ interior diame-
chimney, barrel-manifold) ter work as described throughout this book.
b at each 180° bend, and as needed to Systems of other sizes have been constructed,
reach/inspect multiple 90° or shallower but they don’t always follow the same rules.
turns Smaller systems such as 4˝ do not tend
b as near as possible to the manifold to work as channel-type mass-heaters (too
Rules and Codes 145
much surface area, slow/viscous gas flow).

Larger systems (10˝, 12˝) produce more
Equivalent CSA for Gas Flows:
heat and stronger draft, and may need spe-
cial materials or clearances to withstand the 8” diameter ID = 50 square inches (50.3)
resulting heat. See Appendix 5 for more de- 7” × 7.5” 6.5” × 8” 5” × 10”
tail on flow and draft. For a comparison of 4” × 12.5” 3” × 17” 2” × 25”
CSAs and the dimensional equivalents that 7” diameter ID = 40 sq in (39.5)
produce a particular CSA, see sidebar. 6.5” × 6.5” 6” × 7” 5” × 8”
Nonstandard brick or insulation may 4” × 10” 3” × 14” 2” × 20”
also affect workable parameters. For exam- 6” diameter ID = 30 sq in (28.5)
ple, we have seen better insulation drive up 5.5” × 5.5” 5” × 6” 4” × 7.5”
interior firebox temperatures, sometimes 3” × 10” 2” × 15”
beyond the melting point of that insulation;
Note that the rougher or narrower the opening, the
and we have seen taller heat risers speed up
slower the flow, due to surface drag. Comparing the outer
draft and change the surface temperatures
circumference with flow area gives a good sense of the drag.
of the barrel exterior. If you want to change
In each example, the first pair of dimensions will give best
the design for any reason, test the new de-
flow. For openings like a manifold or bell outlet at right an-
sign outdoors or in a safe experimental
gles to the prevailing flow, 150% of the system CSA may be
space first, and expect to go through sev-
needed to avoid flow restrictions.
eral rounds of prototyping before the new
design behaves predictably enough for safe Metric:
indoor installation. 200 mm ID pipe, CSA = 300 cm2 (314)
18 cm × 18 cm 15 cm × 20 cm
Heat Riser and Fuel Feed Limits 10 cm × 31 cm 5 cm × 63 cm
Three times the feed height is the minimum 150 mm ID pipe, CSA = 175 cm2
height for the heat riser. (Its height should 13 cm × 13.5 cm 12 cm × 15 cm
also be roughly double the burn-tunnel 10 cm × 18 cm 5 cm × 35 cm
length.)
The heat riser can be taller — up to 4
times the height of the fuel feed. A 12˝ fuel • so the barrel can be lifted over the heat
feed works fine with a 48˝ heat riser, if you riser without hitting the ceiling.
are willing to cut your fuel to 11˝. A 60˝
heat riser can work with a 15–20˝ fuel feed. The burn tunnel length is constrained by
Most people go for the minimum pro- the size of barrel. The feed should project
portion 1:3 for more than one reason: just far enough outside the barrel to allow
for a full brick rim around the feed not over-
• to accommodate reasonable fuel lengths lapping the barrel, or about 4˝ of masonry
• to keep the top of the barrel at a conve- around the barrel to avoid cracking. Smaller
nient height for cooking on it and cleaning barrels allow shorter burn tunnels, some-
it times an advantage for 6˝ systems.
Channel Length, Chimney Design, The maximum working lengths given

and Temperature above for each system size will produce an
The length and height of the channels and exhaust chimney temperature of 100 to
chimney have to be considered together. 150°F (surface of chimney pipe). This is hot
Heat-exchange channel length affects ex- enough to rise under cold, dry winter heat-
haust temperature — longer channels strip ing conditions (-30 to 50°F/-35 to 15°C,
more heat. Exit chimney temperature and which is typical of the US/Canadian border,
height affect draft — hotter, taller chim- northern Europe, and inland Eurasia), but
neys draw more powerfully. Draft affects may not be hot enough for reliable draft in
the workable channel length — a powerful warm or humid climates (California, Gulf
draft can pull exhaust through longer chan- states, Israel, Australia).
nels. (Of course, longer channels result in Lower-temperature exhausts may be
cooler exhaust temperature, reducing draft.) more fuel efficient, but have less draft and
Lower-temperature exhaust is more efficient are more cantankerous to operate in warm
(less heat loss); higher-temperature exhaust or windy weather. When this disadvantage
provides more reliable draft in all weather combines with cold-start conditions such as
conditions. a cold chimney or when the mass is below
So how do we design the exchange chan- optimal operating temperatures, you can
nels and exit chimney? have a very balky stove that wants to run
An existing masonry chimney can be used backwards (or not at all). Especially for
if its flue size and condition is suitable; see milder climates or second homes, we favor a
Appendix 3. For new installations, we gen- shorter bench for more reliable draft.
erally use a manufactured chimney. Rocket European masonry heaters typically ex-
mass heaters with exhaust temperatures haust at 200–300°F, to avoid the dew point
below 125°F would qualify as an LT (low- of water in all conditions. They rarely run
temp) exhaust, but we typically call for a HT more than 20 feet of horizontal heat-ex-
(high-temp) exhaust, such as a Class A chim- change channels. A rocket mass heater built
ney. This allows margin for errors or overuse, to this convention, in the short- to mid-
chimney priming, and the possibility that a range for our parameters, will enjoy more
future owner may re-use the chimney for a reliable draft in all conditions, but may lose
woodstove. up to 15% of its potential efficiency.
Adjusting layout and length of the Exit temperatures as low as 60–70°F
heat-exchange bench are the simplest ways have been achieved in small, special build-
to adjust exhaust temperature. The designs ings. These temperatures are often below
presented in Chapter 3 represent our com- dew point, making the exhaust too dense
promise between Ianto Evans’s original to rise. A conventional chimney will stall
ultra-efficient designs for small cob cottag- with such dense exhaust, but some owners
es, and the current conventions for masonry have been successful by opening the bot-
heaters that can be operated in any climate tom of the chimney (outdoor cleanout) as
or season. needed to drain too-dense exhaust. This low
Rules and Codes 147
an exhaust temperature can make a stove carbon monoxide pollution. A fan doesn’t
unreliable. adjust in the same way as natural draft. And
Sometimes people suggest adding an ex- if you’re trying to achieve “perfect” efficien-
haust fan to move cooler exhaust. We don’t cy, the electricity and embodied energy of
like to use exhaust fans to compensate for the fan must be counted against any gains
unreliable draft. Fans are a complex moving from lowering the exhaust temperature.
part, require electricity (don’t work in power Is there such a thing as too much draft?
failures), and the corrosive and damp envi- Too much air moving out of the building
ronment of a wood-fire exhaust gives most reduces heating efficiency. Too much air
fans a very short life. A broken fan blade in drawn through the fire can cool it to the
the middle of the chimney looks a lot like point of incomplete burn.
a half-closed damper: it’s an obstruction Fortunately, excess draft can be con-
that could further choke the stove. Fans also trolled with a simple feed lid (two bricks
don’t guarantee the appropriate draft, and over the opening, with a crack in between;
may even worsen performance: wood fires or a purpose-built feed lid. Common feed
burn at a variable rate; the natural draft of opening settings are 100% open when start-
the heat riser draws more air when the fire ing and loading, then somewhere between
is hottest, less as it fades. More air at the 50% open down to a minimum of 20–25%
end of the fire cools it too fast, causing more
Heat exchange examples
This fits right within the design parameters: duct length

20 feet, with 4 bends, bringing the effective drag to 40
feet. For a larger space, we could lengthen the straight This example falls outside the design parameters: Duct length 23
part of the bench by another 10 feet (3 feet per section) feet, but with 14 elbows. This makes the effective drag over 90 feet.
and still be within cold-climate tolerances. Result: This system requires chimney priming (using the built-in fire-
Result: Drafts reliably throughout heating season (when place) before use. There is not enough draft to overcome the drag
-30°F to about 60°F outdoors, with exhaust chimney when the channels are cold. Though the owner is happy, we prefer
surface during operation 115 to 150°F). not to repeat the experiment.
open for air flow during the fire. The lid can than two cords/year, or who burn recycled
be closed down gradually as the fire dies, paper as tinder, may want a larger manifold
until it is just a crack over the last few coals, ash-pit. Modern printing papers contain
and then shut completely once the fire is out. clay, and make a lot of ash.
These heaters are much less prone to Before you build, ask a local chimney
excess draft than a fireplace or stove due sweep about their tools and space require-
to their thermosiphon design acting like a ments for professional cleaning.
U-trap when cold. However, they do con-
tinue to draft slightly on stored heat if not Insulation and Expansion Joints
closed down, and are most efficient if closed The heat riser MUST be insulated for the
after the fire. rocket mass heater to function. In order for
A removable bell top allows for cleaning the thermosiphon firebox to work, the inside
fly ash from both the manifold and the top of the heat riser must remain very hot, and
of the heat riser. Households that burn more the outside (between heat riser and barrel)
must remain cooler in order to flow down-
ward. If temperatures in the barrel equalize
(due to leaks, poor insulation of the heat
riser, or inappropriate insulation outside the
barrel), the draft stagnates and the system
chokes and smokes.
Stabilized perlite or refractory wool in-
sulation around the firebox doubles as an
expansion joint, creating a “floating firebox”
that can expand without cracking the cas-
ing. This high-temperature area is the most
critical for expansion; the next most critical
is the seal around the barrel.
Earthen masonry can be hot-fired while
still flexible, to create the necessary expan-
sion tolerance without cracking. (If cracks
occur, earthen masonry is easy to patch, and
can be hot-patched to spread the crack at its
widest extent.)
For a project that can’t be hot-fired during
construction — for any reason — consider
adding an airtight expansion joint around
the barrel base.
There is more detail on expansion joints
in Chapter 4, “Repairing Cracks,” although if
you are building with refractory mortars that
Rules and Codes 149
require a long cool curing time, you may want (core) and 120°F (surface). The mass delivers
to build in the expansion joints as prevention a quantity of heat into the room as it slow-
rather than try to patch cracks afterward. ly cools to ambient temperature. Nearby
structures such as concrete slab floors, dense
Mass/Size Calculations partition walls, etc., may also heat up during
Predicting heat delivery is a rough science. the firing cycle and contribute to the overall
Chimney height, fuel choices, operation heat storage potential of the heated room.
and maintenance affect draft speed and burn At the time of this writing, we have not
rates. Building size, detailing, wind, weather, worked much with these calculations, and
indoor and outdoor temperatures all affect encourage readers who prefer this method
heat loss. Even personalities matter; is the to use the heater examples from Chapter 3
household willing to share the warm spots to generate their own comparisons.
as needed, or must heat delivery be precisely
“fair” to every distant room? Heating Cycle Time Estimates
One base for comparison is fuel con- Masonry thicknesses should be AT LEAST
sumption. Complete combustion of wood enough for structural integrity: 4˝ thickness
at 0–20% moisture yields 6200 BTUs (70% around all ducts, as for a lined masonry
efficient woodstove) to 8700 BTUs (per-
fect, ambient-temp exhaust) per pound of
wood.1 (Roughly 10 to 16 megajoules per
kilogram.2) Incomplete combustion may re-
lease less than half the heat.
Our Cabin 8˝ heater may burn 30 to
40 lbs in 4 to 6 hours; so we can calculate
an average for both values: 35 (lbs) × 7000
(BTUs) = roughly 250K BTU. A 6˝ heater
might burn about half the wood. Some of
this heat (up to about half ) is released at the
bell during firing; the rest is stored by the
mass.
Some masons calculate heat output in
terms of the surface area of the heater (in-
side for heat extraction, outside for rates of
output into the room, and for heat loss cal-
culations compare the surface area of exterior
walls). Engineers may try to calculate the
heat storage capacity of the masonry mass it-
self — although temperatures vary through
the mass, the average temperature at the end
of a firing cycle is somewhere between 500°F
Common Errors
The following errors cause performance prob- at this point). If a larger firebox is needed,
lems beyond the scope of this book. They would consider a tested design such as the batch
be considered “significantly not as described.” box in Appendix 3.
• Making burn tunnel too short: Even if you
• Avoid interior constrictions or bumpy added
compensate by making it wider, low burn
“features.” Turbulence or fly ash can turn
tunnels get blocked more easily by ash or
a slight bottleneck into a major obstacle.
embers, and are harder to clean out.
Watch firebox, heat riser outlet, manifold,
turns, and exit chimney caps for these com- • Random substitutions: Avoid unsuitable
mon mistakes: materials, or even “better” materials in the
b undersized slots or poorly flowing junc- wrong places. We have listed suitable alter-
tures (right-angle turns in the manifold natives in Chapter 4 and Appendix 1.
may need to allow at least 150% of the CSA • Heat-exchange channels that are rough,
to avoid restrictions) corrugated, too long, convoluted, or mixed
b flat, shallow openings that get choked size. These often cause extreme drag and
with fly ash poor-to-nonexistent draft. Stick with smooth
b measurement errors ID/OD (inside di- materials of consistent dimensions.
mension/outside dimension). This is • Chimneys that are too large, cold, or exposed
particularly common in the brickwork (for an exit chimney). These situations cause
(measure from inside corners, don’t line intermittent, terrible draft. (Slow, cool ex-
up outside corners); the heat riser gap haust gases can stall if water condenses in
(measure from inside the barrel, it’s nearly the chimney; the chimney may still be warm-
impossible to get an accurate measure- er than outside air, but wet exhaust is denser
ment over the outer rim); and in insulated than air. Impact varies with weather.)
or double-walled sections for exit chim- • A freaky hot firebox. A super-insulated fire-
neys (look for ID on labels, or use your box (with no dense firebrick liner) can drive
measuring tape on the INSIDE). fire temperatures above 2300°F (perlite and
• Improper dimensions in the firebox and overall many other refractories will fail). The lack
proportions. of brick may also lead to flame irrigation,
• Making the feed larger to take larger wood. abrasion damage, and eventual sudden fail-
This doesn’t work. Problems include smoke ure. Partial liners may lead to uneven heat
pouring into the room, creosote buildup in retention and invisible draft failure during
pipes, and possible flash-back fires in accu- cool-down.
mulated smoke (and a dirty burn which is • The right stuff in the wrong place. Failure to
less efficient, if you still care about efficiency insulate the heat riser, or mistakenly A
Rules and Codes 151
adding insulation on the outside of the bell, or burn out metal components in the fire-
can completely stop the draft within about box (usually in less than one year). Metals
40 minutes after lighting the stove. Air leaks also expand more with heat, acting as a slow
anywhere in the combustion unit cause hammer on nearby materials. Notice that
similar problems (including improvised “air the metal pipes and barrels in this system
intakes” or “outside air”). are away from high heat areas and direct
• Metal is warping or burning. While metal is flame exposure, rounded to protect nearby
considered noncombustible in ordinary use masonry, and either double-sealed or easily
(such as cooking), the aggressive heat of inspected.
these clean-burning fires will quickly warp
Thermal Mass Example:

Building: 800 sf cottage, 60 cu. ft. heater. (24x24 foot Overnight, the heater’s surface temp drops from
concrete slab floor, drywall, insulation, etc.) 95–120°F to 75°F . . . call it 20 to 40°F?
January av. 23°F. Overnight heat loss: roughly 95,000
BTU at 65°F indoors; 75,000 BTU at 55°F.
Heat capacity of 60 cu. ft., with a drop of 40°F:

Clay, brick .22 to .24BTU/lb/°F × 120 lbs/cf × 60 cf x 40 °F = 63,000 BTU
Concrete/stone .18 BTU/lb/°F × 150 lbs/cf x 60 cf × 40 °F = 64,000 BTU
Adobe (dry earth) .3BTU/lb/°F × 95 lbs/cf x 60 cf × 40 °F = 68,000 BTU
These rough estimates may not be accurate or use- heat sources (sun, cooking) and/or other storages
ful. A heat loss of 40°F seems big; we more often see (structure, furnishings) may contribute to our comfort.
surface temperatures drop 10 to 20°F at the heater, (Sources: www.engineeringtoolbox.com, www.greenbuilding
and 10°F (from 75 to 65°) in the rest of the house. Other advisor.com, www.builditsolar.com)
chimney. However, there are circumstances Heat penetrates earthen masonry at

when you might want to adjust the masonry about 1˝ per hour. Thicker mass gives a
thickness around the pipes. It’s your choice slower and longer-lasting heat storage, but
whether to include any footings, slab, or ma- if it’s too thick, it may never warm up to
sonry hearth in the heater mass/thickness, comfort temperatures. Theoretically, an 8˝
or to try to isolate them with insulation. thick mass takes a full day to warm up; but
it can provide stable warmth for more than However, having done the research, we
a day after a good fire. figured we could at least provide useful
Note that our squared-off mass with references, and comment on a few known
round pipes in it naturally has a range of issues. Codes designed for other types of sol-
thicknesses, which spreads the cycle out. id-fueled heaters might mislead builders or
Heat penetrates the front of the bench within officials into recommending inappropriate
a few hours of firing; the heat that migrates design changes, and we don’t want that.
deep into the bench may not emerge until
two days later. Applicable Codes
The benches diagrammed in Chapter 3 In North America, the most relevant code
generally give one to three days of heat stor- documents are the International Residential
age, depending on outside temperatures. Code (IRC), section R1002 for mason-
(The Daybed 6˝ is rarely fired more than ry heaters; and the corresponding ASTM
twice a week in the mild coastal climate standard E-1602 for masonry heaters.
where it is located; the Cabin 8˝ is fired once (International Building Code also has a sec-
per day in deep winter conditions and every tion B1002 for masonry heaters; however,
two or three days in the shoulder season, to balancing the chimney draft and heat output
maintain comfort temperatures.) for commercial buildings over two stories
Some builders have experimented with tall is beyond the scope of this book.)
very low-mass heaters for occasional use, ASTM 2778 covers tile stoves specifi-
such as a covered outdoor entertainment cally, but is not generally referenced in the
area. One colleague uses fiber-reinforced building codes as is ASTM E-1602.
masonry panels to support people’s weights Masonry heaters traditionally are site-
and lateral loads, with about 2˝ thickness in built, not manufactured and shipped. They
the thinnest areas. These thin areas heat up historically have not been regulated by the
more quickly for on-demand comfort, but EPA, like woodstoves are. They are exempt
may become painful hot spots if the heater by weight. (By the ASTM definition, a heat-
is fired over an extended period. er must be at least 800 kg/1760 lbs, though
Q some others give a definition of 1500 lbs.)

Woodstoves are under 900 kg or 1980 lbs
by EPA definition, so there is some po-
Building Codes and tential overlap. The rocket mass heaters as
Rocket Mass Heaters described here would generally weigh up-
After much research, we’ve cut a lot of detail ward of three tons (6000 lbs/3000 kg).
from this section. The bottom line is, every There has been some work on an EPA-
jurisdiction can write its own rules. We are approved emissions test for masonry heaters;
not lawyers or even licensed building con- however it currently applies only to batch-
tractors; our advice may simply confuse the burn masonry heaters, and is not suitable
issue when it comes time to work with your for testing the J-style firebox. A jurisdic-
local authorities. tion that requires EPA certification above
Rules and Codes 153
and beyond the requirements of R1002 The Germanic and Slavic countries have
may inadvertently exclude a wide range of a tremendous history with masonry heating.
clean-burning traditional masonry heaters, We authors regret being unable to access most
while allowing marginal performers such as of this knowledge except in English transla-
small woodstoves that are more easily trans- tions such as: TRVB 105/86: Fireplaces for
ported to testing facilities and can be tested Solid Fuels (Austrian National Fire Service
under existing protocols. Association, OBFV, and Austrian Fire
The North American Masonry Heater Prevention Services) found at www.bundes
Association membership lists can be found at feuerwehrverband.at
www.mha-net.org; the Alliance of Masonry Those with suitable language skills may
Heater and Oven Professionals, at www. wish to look up the Austrian tile stove as-
masonryheaters.org. A certified masonry sociation, www.kachelovenverband.com, or
heater builder has some advantages when similar masonry heater associations across
seeking official approval. Europe and Asia. (For Russian fireplaces try
In Europe, the most broadly-used ref- searching for Finnish ver-
erences seems to be the British-Adopted sions, pystyuuni or kaakeliuuni, for Swedish,
European Standards, BSEN: kakelugn or contraflow stoves; Chinese:
k’ang ; Korean ondol or gudeul, .)4
• BS EN 13229 covers inset masonry heat-
ers and open fireplaces burning solid fuels Design Changes, Authority,
• BS EN 15250 covers slow heat release and Expertise
appliances fired by solid fuel (includes Local building officials are often select-
some specs for manufactured and partial- ed based on knowledge and/or experience
ly pre-fabricated appliances e.g. masonry of the building industry. However, even a
heater core kits) brilliant person may work in the building
• BS EN 15544 covers kacheloven/grund industry for several lifetimes without see-
oven (tiled/mortared stoves) ing or knowing every possible way to build
• BS EN 8303–1 covers heaters burning things.
solid mineral fuels (coal) Local authorities may suggest design
• BS 8511 covers solid-fuel-burning heaters changes to accommodate existing rules
installed in small craft (boats)3 about solid-fueled heaters. Making un-
proven design changes in order to satisfy an
In other English-speaking countries arbitrary rule is asking for trouble, because
such as Australia, New Zealand, and South the writers of those rules generally had no
Africa, the general approach seems to be to experience with this specific type of heater.
fall back on rules designed for chimneys, Unwarranted design changes may cause per-
fireplaces, structural soundness, and fire pre- formance and safety problems beyond the
vention. Masonry heater builders are likely scope of this book.
to be imported, or to travel internationally Anyone who has not build rocket mass
for their training. heaters, yet who suggests design changes,
is operating outside the scope of their ex- Here are some questions to ask during an
pertise. (In fact, we’d suggest building five initial meeting with local building officials:
or ten rocket mass heaters before claiming
• What are the permitting requirements for
expertise, and extensive prototyping of any
a woodstove, masonry heater, or other sol-
proposed design changes before implement-
id-fueled heaters? What are the fees/other
ing them in an occupied home.)
costs?
We respectfully suggest that if these
• Do we have any special local rules, like
heater designs as tested and documented do
seismic zoning, air quality, or local chim-
not meet local rules, then the appropriate
ney height standards that might affect my
solution is either seeking a rules variance
plans?
or amendment or considering a different,
• Are there incentives for energy-efficient
proven masonry heater design that does sat-
appliances that might apply to a site-built
isfy local rules.
masonry heater?
Jurisdictions do have the authority to
• Do I need an engineer or pre-approval for
write their own rules and exemptions.
my foundations? Or can I just look up the
Sometimes special rules get written that
load in a table and use common sense?
favor special interests, unexamined beliefs,
• Are there any exemptions that might
or a temporary fad (such as the belief that
apply? For example, if I wanted to lay up
natural gas is “cleaner” than renewable fuels
my heater in a shed or greenhouse first to
... don’t let us get side-tracked on that one!).
practice, could I do that without a permit?
If the jurisdiction realizes that it has undu-
ly constrained itself or is working against Many areas allow exemptions:
local best interests with arbitrary self-im- • for buildings under a certain size, or not
posed rules, the jurisdiction may wish to on permanent foundations
remove such amendments, or revert back • by weight (heaters over 900 kg are not a
to adopting the current IRC codes without woodstove under EPA regulations)
amendment. • if an appliance is the occupants’ only way
Some jurisdictions have adopted a spe- to heat or cook
cific exemption or appeals process to allow • for approved experiments or prototypes;
clean-burning rocket mass heaters through to be reviewed for permanent approval
their own special approval process (see • for antiques over a certain age, or of un-
Appendix 2). While in general we’d pre- usual design or value
fer to see widespread acceptance under the • for small outbuildings under a certain size
existing IRC and ASTM standards, a local (varies by jurisdiction), off-grid cabins, or
exemption or variance can be a workable owner-occupied homes.
stop-gap solution.
There may also be standing local exemp- Acceptable Design Constraints
tions that can be used for a particular rocket For reference, following are some code-re-
mass heater project, bypassing the more in- quired practices that have proven compatible
volved and costly appeals process. with our rocket mass heater designs.
Rules and Codes 155
International Residential Codes than 2 feet tall. The ASTM standard gives
R1002.1 Definition: “A masonry heater is an out, allowing for foundation thickness
a heating appliance constructed of concrete adequate to support the weight of the heater.
or solid masonry, hereinafter referred to as In practice, most masonry heater builders
masonry, which is designed to absorb and prefer to use the appropriate slab thickness
store heat from a solid-fuel fire built in the to support the actual weight of their proj-
firebox by routing the exhaust gases through ect, varying from 4˝ to 6˝ for small ovens
internal heat-exchange channels in which and low benches, 8˝ slabs for modest-sized
the flow path downstream of the firebox towers, and the 12˝ reinforced slab generally
may include flow in a horizontal or down- reserved for projects of more than one story
ward direction before entering the chimney in height (such as where a footing must be
and which delivers heat by radiation from built up through a full basement to locate a
the masonry surface of the heater.”5 heater on the main floor of the house).
A rocket mass heater would apparently The engineering calculations for the
fit this definition. Portland approval process (Appendix 2) sug-
R1002.2 Installation: Offers a choice of gested that a 4˝ slab would be adequate to
complying with ASTM E-1602, or installing support earthen masonry benches up to 30˝
listed and labeled appliances (UL 1482) ac- tall, or a shorter bench with a narrow raised
cording to manufacturer’s instructions. As of back up to 48˝ tall. This agrees with our expe-
this writing, rocket mass heaters are not listed, rience (we have observed at least two projects
and so would fall under the ASTM standard. built on existing 4˝ to 6˝ slabs, over about 4
R1002.3 Footings and Foundations: The years in each case, with no evidence of crack-
minimum firebox floor thickness of 4˝ (102 ing or shifting of the slabs despite at least one
mm) is roughly compatible with our com- minor earthquake during the observation
mon building practice of a 2.5˝ layer of fire period). Areas with extreme frost heave may
brick, backed with 1˝ to 2˝ of mineral insu- need deeper or heftier foundations.
lation. (If we lay 2˝ of clay-stabilized perlite, A certified heater mason or licensed en-
we’ve met the requirement with some allow- gineer’s stamp on this section of your plans
ance for compaction.) may be useful to mollify local building offi-
For noncombustible foundations, the cials — if you can get it for less than the cost
masonry heater code refers to the masonry of the extra concrete.
chimney codes, R1003.2.5 R1002.4 Seismic Reinforcing: We have
We agree with the concept of noncom- seldom built a rocket mass heater tall enough
bustible supports, and there is no problem to require seismic reinforcing. The extreme
with building a rocket mass heater on top improbability of the low bench ever falling
of a concrete slab if you happen to have on anyone can be seen as a reassuring safety
one available. However, the 12˝ thick, re- feature.
inforced concrete foundation requirements R1002.5 Minimum Clearance to Com
for full-height masonry chimneys (20+ feet bustibles: The general requirement is that
tall) seem excessive for a masonry bench less combustibles will not be placed within 36˝
of the heater (as for non-certified wood- harder to interpret, as they assume a verti-
stoves under many codes), except: Where cally oriented firebox opening. Combustible
the firebox walls are not less than 8˝ of walls must be shielded if they are less than
masonry thickness, and the heat-exchange 48˝ from this opening, and the area directly
channels not less than 5˝ of masonry thick- in front of the firebox must have a 48˝ clear-
ness, the acceptable minimum clearance to ance with no reductions. However in our
combustibles is reduced to a 4˝ air gap. case, the perpendicular direction from this
We have built heaters with the 4˝ air gap opening would be straight up.
(see Bonny 8˝, Chapter 3), and they work In general, we do recommend allowing
great. Eight inches of masonry around the plenty of room to operate the heater, and
firebox is very reasonable; five inches around providing a spark-safe storage area for fuel
the heat-exchange channels may be an inch conveniently nearby to reduce the tempta-
or so more than necessary at the cool end tion to store kindling or firewood right on
of the bench, but is not unreasonable. (An the open hearth. For convenient operation,
experienced mason might recognize the 5˝ 48˝ is not unreasonable space to have on
standard as implying more than one brick one side or another, but it seems unneces-
wide; multiple layers reduce the risk of sary to have 48˝ in all directions. We suggest
through-cracking at the joints.) considering the 48˝ requirement as point-
The 4˝ air gap is a nice width for air flow, ing straight up above the firebox for radiant
cleaning and retrieving fallen items, and heat protection, or fanning out along lines
controlling vermin. The 4˝ air gap plus 5˝ drawn from the bottom corner of the fire-
thickness agrees nicely with the 9˝ minimum box to the opposite edge. There should be
for HT manufactured chimneys (stovepipe no combustibles located directly above the
with heat shielding, or double-walled pipe). firebox, nor on top of the barrel.
The ceiling clearance of 8˝ from an insu- In general, we recommend a simple
lated capping slab to the ceiling DOES NOT performance-based standard: If any com-
apply to our metal radiant bell. We recom- bustibles near the heater are too hot to
mend following guidelines for non-certified touch, additional heat shielding is needed.
woodstoves and/or treating the metal top as (The actual upper limit is about 150–165°F
a cooktop. It might be possible to reduce the (65–75°C) — not more than 90°F (50°C)
clearance to 18˝ with excellent heat shielding above ambient temperature.) Always install
and/or insulation on the barrel top. However, heat shielding with air gaps: not only is it
for practical installation and removal of a more effective, but it’s also easier to dou-
standard 32- to 34-inch-tall metal barrel, 36˝ ble-check its effectiveness and make sure
from the ceiling is a nice clearance. your combustible surface is now remaining
safely cool.
ASTM Standard E-1602 Our experience in shielding the metal ra-
(2003–2010 Version)6 diant bell seems to agree with older clearance
ASTM E-1602–03 section 5.2 Clearances recommendations for non-certified wood-
and Heat Shielding: These requirements are stoves: a 36˝ to 48˝ minimum clearance
Rules and Codes 157
without heat shielding, which can be safely Masonry or noncombustible materials

reduced to 18˝ to 24˝ with good heat shield- applied directly to a combustible wall may
ing (e.g. a tile, ≥ 24-gauge metal, or brick trap heat in hidden spaces, and are not
panel, with 1˝ air gap to wall, and gener- considered to offer any significant protec-
ous air gaps below and above, so that air can tion from radiant heat nor to reduce safe
flow freely between the panel and the wall), clearances.
or as little as 12˝ to 16˝ with excellent heat If in doubt, check the temperature of any
shielding (double-layer construction with combustible materials near the heat source
tile or brick, backed with a continuous metal (you can get quite reasonable point-and-
sheet, with the same 1˝ air gaps behind, and shoot infrared thermometers at electronics
larger air gaps top and bottom). or woodstove shops). All combustible ma-
The smaller numbers in front (start- terials should remain below about 150°F
ing with 36˝) are for wood burning stoves (65°C) throughout the heating cycle. If the
with shielding, and these distances seem to wood and paper of your home is not staying
agree with our experience of the metal bar- at safe, touchable temperatures, improve the
rel rocket mass heaters (the metal is not the heat shielding, move the combustibles, and/
firebox, but a secondary layer). 48˝ is for or replace the wall with a noncombustible
wood burning stoves without shielding. wall.
ASTM E-1602–03, section 5.4 Hearth
More Details Requirements: The standard describes four
The minimum legal clearances above which types of firebox opening (floor level and
I have described as 1˝ are actually given as raised, various sizes) and prescribes 16˝ or
⁷⁄₈˝ (which allows for some slight variation 20˝ minimum hearth from each firebox
in materials). The minimum clearance for opening.
air flow at the top is 3˝, and at the bottom Our J-style firebox opening is a hori-
is between 1˝ minimum and 3˝ maximum. zontal hole, so the 8˝ masonry thickness
Ceiling shielding needs a minimum of 3˝ discussed above naturally makes an 8˝
edge clearance. These clearances must be es- hearth. Adding another 12˝ of hearth on
tablished with noncombustible spacers (such the floor would meet the more generous 20˝
as ceramic insulators or 1˝-long pieces of hearth requirement, as measured from the
metal plumbing pipe, which can be thread- firebox opening.
ed onto the bolts or lag screws holding the In our experience, it’s rare but possible
heat shield on the wall). The fasteners must for popping sparks to escape the firebox.
not be closer than 8˝ from the vertical cen- A 20˝ hearth, as above, seems reasonable
ter line of the stove, and if they extend into to protect combustible floors. The overall
combustible materials, must be at the later- width of the hearth area would be about
al extremities (far sides) of the shield. The 48,˝ centered on the firebox opening.
shield is to extend 18˝ beyond the appliance However, numerous builders have omitted
on the sides, 20˝ above the appliance on the this hearth, with no more spark damage than
wall.7 is commonly seen adjacent to a legal-sized
fireplace hearth. It’s possible that a listed than most ready-mixed refractory mortars.
rocket mass heater in the future might only Clay basically becomes brick if the tempera-
require the 8˝ minimum hearth naturally ture is hot enough. It is certainly possible
provided by the firebox masonry. to build the entire cob bench using a com-
ASTM E-1602–03 5.2.5 Wing Walls: mercially processed fireclay with either brick
These seem clever, and likely to work with grog (ground-up brick aggregate) or mason-
rocket benches. The wing wall is a small ma- ry sand (such as ¼˝-minus rock-crusher
sonry wall, no more than 4˝ thick, extending fines). In most areas, we find local clay soils
from the heater to meet nearby combustible are adequate to the purpose.
partition walls at a safe distance from the As for refractory components: Clay
heat. chimney-liner sections with approximately
We generally would NOT use masonry the right system CSA have proven to work
wing walls around the combustion unit. with rocket mass heaters as described here.
The radiant metal bell needs to shed heat Round clay drain pipe has also been used,
for proper draft function, and its great- where available in the right internal diam-
er thermal expansion is likely to crack any eters. Firebrick channels can be built with
masonry in contact with the upper portion some alterations: their rougher surface im-
of the bell (the hottest part). It’s also nice poses some drag. If you want to build the
to have the option of removing the barrel channels of firebrick, use 8˝ by 8˝ chan-
for inspections and maintenance down the nels for an 8˝ heater, total channel length
road, for example to clear fly ash that may not more than 20 to 25 feet, and minimize
settle on top of the heat riser. turns (use cut bricks or clay-sand mortar to
If the idea of embedding the barrel in smooth the turns as much as possible).
a partition wall is irresistible, be sure to Metal pipes make the process of laying
provide expansion jointing (such as non- out the heater much easier for most builders.
combustible insulation or braided fiberglass We feel that stovepipe bedded in clay-sand
gasket) where the metal meets the masonry, (cob) handles both corrosion and refracto-
and well-sealed maintenance access to the ry considerations. Many builders have used
interior of the bell. Or better yet, resist the galvanized ducting, considering it as sacri-
idea, and build the partition about 4 inches ficial formwork to give the proper shape to
away from the barrel with room for future the clay-sand mixture which hardens into
maintenance. permanent, refractory channels. Rocket
ASTM E-1602 5.7 Heat-exchange mass heaters built this way have lasted 20+
Channels: These are supposed to be firebrick, years with no reported problems.
soapstone, or other refractory materials laid One possible exception would be damp
in fireclay mortar or other refractory mortar. conditions: underground heating flues in a
Clay-based mortars have better longevity greenhouse show corrosion much faster, and
and less movement in high-heat applications unfired earthen masonry is not structurally
than products containing Portland cement, sound while damp. Damp-resistant materi-
and are more forgiving of rough firing-in als such as ceramic flue lined channels, and
Rules and Codes 159
an outer casing of unit masonry, will pro- can suck up over 500 cubic feet per minute
vide better longevity in damp conditions. of combined room and combustion air1)
ASTM 1602–03 5.9 Chimneys: The with late-20th-century airtight homes. At
guide specifies either low heat chimney as one point, it was seen as a desirable ener-
approved by the local jurisdiction, or factory- gy-efficiency goal for a home to be as airtight
built residential chimney (UL 103 HT). as possible. Following the diagnosis of “sick
Weight of masonry chimneys is not to be building syndrome,” we now recognize that
supported by the heating channels unless both building and occupant health demand
expressly designed for the purpose (general- a minimum fresh air exchange of about one-
ly, keeping load-bearing structures separate third of the home’s air volume per hour.
from fiddly heating structures is good prac- Local building codes are still re-adjusting
tice, simplifies maintenance and remodels of to these contradictory goals. In some cases,
both). airtight building standards have been com-
We typically go for the HT (high-tem- bined with a requirement for a minimum
perature) chimney, as for a woodstove. size of screened vent directly through the
Mostly because the parts are generally avail- wall. This appears to be regulation getting
able, and it alleviates some potential concerns carried away with itself. Previous best prac-
in case anyone did hook up a hotter wood- tice standards managed both fresh air and
stove in future, or prime the chimney using weather-sealing with more art and less fuss.
open flame. Outside combustion air is air that comes
For rocket mass heaters with typical directly into the firebox from outside the in-
channel lengths as described here, and no sulated building envelope. (If air is brought
bypass option, the exhaust temperature is into the room instead, it is called “make-up
typically 100°F to 150°F at the surface of air.”)
the chimney as it exits the bench. You could In practice, there are several problems
use a low-temperature exhaust system if you with outside air as a solution to negative
can find the parts, and are confident that building pressures:
your installation will not be mistaken for a
HT chimney by future owners. • Outside air must always come from below,
never from above the fire. This reduces
Questionable Changes the risk that the outside air intake will
Outside Air: (ASTM 5.6.1, some jurisdic- warm up, reverse flow, and begin to act as
tions add this to R1002 , despite it being a second exhaust chimney. This makes it
omitted from the current version of the difficult to construct a proper outside air
codes.) intake for basement or some ground-level
Some states retain a requirement for installations, or for a down drafting J-style
outside combustion air for all solid-fueled firebox. (Note: Outside air must NEVER
devices. be brought into the bottom of a J-style
This requirement was developed in an firebox below the feed; this breaks the si-
attempt to reconcile open fireplaces (which phon, allowing the feed to act as a second
chimney, and smoke to escape upward ventilation systems are available to ensure
into the room whenever the fuel feed is that the building has adequate supplies of
open.) fresh air without sacrificing much heat in
• For solid-fuel burning devices which the process, and simple DIY air-to-air heat
are loaded from inside the room, the exchangers can be built for windowsill oper-
fuel-loading door must be opened some- ation for about $15 in parts (example plans
time. Outside air does not prevent smoke for some heat recovery ventilator designs
from escaping into the room when the can be found at builditsolar.com).
firebox is opened to add more fuel, and Rocket mass heaters do not draw any-
some builders feel it contributes to tur- thing like the air volume of a poorly designed
bulence at the fire opening and may even fireplace, and they are burned for only a few
increase smoke escape. hours per day. Most of the time, the air in-
• Outside air intakes on most wood-burn- take is shut down while the mass releases
ing stoves bring air into the firebox, often stored heat. And of course, the heat stored
at a point in front similar to the room air in dense thermal mass vastly outmatches
intake from a vented door. In the case of any heat lost to a little extra fresh air.
a rocket mass heater’s J-style firebox, this If outside air is absolutely required by
point would be just above the fuel open- local officials, it is possible to build an out-
ing, violating the rule against delivering side air feed onto a rocket mass heater. It
outside air from above the fire. would be contrary to the manufacturer’s
• Outside air intakes are a breach in the recommendations, if we ever get them list-
building envelope, and must be made ed, but it can sometimes be done in relative
impervious to fire. This means they’re safety. See Appendix 3 for one possible de-
often made with metal, and can conduct sign solution.
heat outward or cold into the building.
Good detailing can address these issues, UL Listing for Rocket Mass Heaters
but expert fireplace builders have been There is not currently a feasible EPA testing
surprised at how much heat travels along protocol that can be physically conduct-
this path, in both directions (chilling the ed on a J-style firebox. Two protocols exist
room, and/or heating up combustible for solid-fueled appliances, one for wood
parts of the building envelope along the stoves, and one for batch-burn masonry
path). heaters. We anticipate that even if the fund-
ing appears within the next year, it will be
Our preference would be to resolve any several years before a testing protocol can be
negative pressure problems in the building developed and approved, and only at that
in other ways, such as opening a window point could rocket mass heater designs be
while burning the stove, or closing com- EPA tested to a consistent standard.
municating doors if it is necessary to run a Meanwhile, grassroots designers contin-
vent fan (in a bathroom, kitchen, etc.) while ue to refine various designs to amazingly
firing the heater. Balanced, heat-exchanging low emissions limits. (One prototype built
Rules and Codes 161
in fall 2014 by Peter van den Berg displayed and moon, when they can be seen, are the
a 30-minute run at less than 20 ppm of CO, color of copper in the sky. My hair is sticky
most of it around 6 to 12 PPM — an as- from the smoke, despite three extra wash-
toundingly low number in a field where ings this week.
anything under 100 to 500 is considered For fire protection, we residents are en-
quite good, and numbers above 5000 are as- couraged to clear small brush and “ladder
sociated with visible smoke. See Appendix 3.) fuels” from around our homes. The small
The beauty of mass heaters, of course, firebox of the rocket mass heater practically
is that their efficiency and clean emissions invites the use of this fuel, traditionally con-
are effectively multiplied by the hours sidered “women’s wood” because it can be
spent “coasting” compared to actual firing. gathered by hand, without ax or saw.
A heater that operates at 80% efficiency The current reality is that rural residents
while firing for 4 hours would be over 97% who heat with propane, electricity, or logs
efficient if you consider the full 24-hour cut in the national forest often dispose of
heating cycle fed by that 4-hour burn. their stick fuels by piling and burning them
Nothing in the current testing protocols in the brief rains of spring. As a result, there
allows for this type of quantum leap. It’s as is no season free of airborne smoke in our
if the regulators have resigned themselves region. Fall merges wildfire into woodstove
to everyone operating their wood burners season; spring sees woodstoves and burn-
24/7 — with the operator literally asleep a piles, and summer is wildfire season.
third of that time — yet are trying to some- I could literally clean the air around here
how regulate smoldering overnight fires up by running my stove more, if I could think
to the same clean-emissions standard that of anything to do with that much heat.
can be achieved at peak burn. The operator I hope that the guardians of public safety
actively works against it; he wants to wake will see the advantages as well, and that the
up to a warm floor in the morning much regulatory environment will increasingly
more than he cares about retaining the favor this marvelous and efficient option.
stove’s clean emissions statistics once it’s out
the showroom door. Notes
If we take away the assumption that 1. The Chimney Sweep’s Library: http://www.
burning fires overnight is necessary, and re- chimneysweeponline.com/howoodbtu.htm
discover the tricks our ancestors developed 2. David Darling, Encyclopedia of Alternative
Energy: http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclo
over millennia of masonry tradition, we
pedia/W/AE_wood_heat_value_BTU.html
may actually achieve warm mornings with
smog-free horizons. Codes and Standards Sources:
As I finish this edition, our county 3.
The European standards descriptions were
(Okanogan, WA) is under widespread evac- gleaned from www.stovemason.com/about/,
uation notice for large-scale wildfires, with www.techstreet.com, and https://global.ihs.com
air quality ranging from “unhealthy” to in August 2015; the authors have not yet pur-
“hazardous” due to drifting smoke. The sun chased full copies.
4. General info from David Lyle’s 1984 Book of approval; it was reapproved without chang-
Masonry Stoves, Chelsea Green, 1997; names es in 2010.) May be obtained from ASTM
translated online. International, www.astm.org.
5. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com, specifically 7. Derived from the booklet A Guide to Residential
http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/ Wood Heating, publication 62310 by the
2012/icod_irc_2012_10_par028.htm Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation,
6. ASTM E-1602–03, Standard Guide for 2008, and from online sources such as Installa
Construction of Solid Fuel Burning Masonry tion Clearances for Wood Stoves at www.wood
Heaters. (The “03” indicates year of initial heat.org, www.woodheat.org/clearances.html.
FAQs
How It Works expected to deliver 60 to 65% of the wood’s

theoretical BTU value into the home. The
H ow can a rocket mass heater use so

much less fuel than a woodstove?
rest of the energy would go up the chimney
as smoke, steam, and heat; or remain in the
There are woodstoves on the market being stove as unburned charcoal.
advertised as “75% efficient” or better. Masonry heaters can burn hotter and
People often ask how it’s possible that a cleaner (1200° to 2000°F, which would make
rocket heater could use ¼ to ¹⁄₁₀ the fuel. metal stoves glow cherry red and void their
Is it physically possible for something to be warranties). With a hotter and cleaner fire,
750% efficient? and operators who stick to the instructions
It turns out that even at their most ef- because they consistently produce comfort
ficient burn, woodstoves are “graded on a that way, masonry heaters don’t run the same
curve” to compensate for the mandatory risk of creosote deposits and chimney fires.
minimum woodstove chimney temperature So these heaters can exhaust more efficiently,
of 350°F (to limit creosote deposits). Many often at temperatures around 200°F. Then
woodstove professionals use a lower BTU they totally blow the curve by coasting on
value for the firewood, about 15% less, to stored heat.
factor that mandatory heat loss. (Theoretical If an RMH was 85% efficient during op-
BTU content is about 8700 BTU/lb; a eration for 4 hours, then coasted for 20 hours
woodstove can be expected to generate about with the air flow completely shut down for
6200 BTU/lb after factoring in water weight near-zero heat loss, could we consider the
and chimney heat loss; www.chimneysweep overall average efficiency as something like
online.com.) So a “75% efficient” stove, 97.5%?
run perfectly on its lab-testing firing pat- The bigger problem is that woodstoves
tern, with wood at 15% moisture, might be are rarely operated at peak efficiency once
163
they leave the testing lab. Owners who want can’t easily see the fire, or reach the hottest
overnight heat may use all kinds of tricks to parts (upper third of bell, down in the fire
slow down the fire, causing it to smolder in- itself ). Most people and pets have no diffi-
efficiently. A choked-down woodstove may culty staying clear of the hottest parts, and
be working at less than 15% efficiency, or can safely enjoy the warm mass.
even at a negative efficiency (drawing excess If someone in the household is subject
warm air from the house toward the end to loss of bodily control, falling, intoxica-
of the fire). It is difficult to achieve steady tion, or memory problems, you may want
comfort with a woodstove, but some owners a physical barrier around the hottest sur-
are willing to sacrifice a lot of wood in the faces of the bell. DO NOT cover the barrel
effort. with insulation. See “Barrel Decoration,”
Rocket mass heaters also “cheat” in sever- Appendix 6.
al other ways. Heat loss calculators designed Some families with very sensitive in-
for forced-air heating or on-demand radiant dividuals have divided the heater into
heaters don’t fully explain how people can separate rooms, passing the bench through a
be comfortable with the tiny amount of fuel heat-tolerant wall, for a safe warm area com-
a rocket mass heater actually burns. The pletely separate from the combustion unit.
mass absorbs ambient warmth, maintaining DO NOT place a wall between bell and feed
free heating and cooling through the shoul- — there simply isn’t room to do it while pre-
der seasons. Warm seats and cooler walls and serving functional draft and maintenance
ceiling mean less heat loss from the house access.
in every way. And the opportunity to in- Neither children nor fire should be left
dulge in a “personal sauna” by sticking toes unsupervised, especially not together. In
under the bench cushions becomes far more case of a serious burn with blisters or broken
significant to comfort than trying to main- skin, seek medical advice.
tain a theoretical room temperature in the
Functions
back-bedroom closet.
The overall result is what we see in prac- Will it replace my furnace?
tice: a family which used to bring in three A rocket mass heater is not a furnace nor a
large tote bins of wood per day (15 cubic boiler. It is a large radiant heater which pro-
feet or more) to feed their certified wood- vides ample heat for human comfort. Like
stove can find the same wood storage bin all radiant or contact heaters, is best located
lasting for three days (¹⁄₉ the fuel consump- centrally in the occupied space, in line-of-
tion) with their new rocket mass heater. sight of any rooms needing heat.
Furnaces and boilers located outside the
I have a small child/frail elder/pet. occupied parts of the house sacrifice effi-
How can I keep them from getting ciency for convenience. They lose heat in
burned? transmission. They also require automated
Rocket mass heaters are generally safer than controls, such as thermostats, fuel augers,
metal woodstoves and fireplaces. Toddlers pilot lights, fans, or other draft boosters.
FAQs 165
All this automation uses energy, and makes It’s a design tradeoff between quick re-
them vulnerable to power outages. But you sponse (useful for fast cooking) vs. stable,
can’t beat the convenience. Some people use stored heat (useful for overnight heating).
both. We don’t recommend water heaters as a
See Chapter 2 and Appendix 4 for more DIY project in any case, due to the risk of
details. lethal steam explosions, and the high level
of skill and experience needed to plumb hot
How big a heater do I need? water safely. A pot or kettle is far easier and
For most homes in cool and cold climates, safer to manage.
we consider an 8˝ diameter system. 6˝ sys-
tems may be useful as one-room heaters, or
Firebox
for smaller buildings in mild climates. The How does the fire burn sideways and
storage mass will depend on your space’s upside down? Doesn’t it smoke?
height, layout, and intended use. It’s called a thermosiphon.
Very large homes may need more than Picture a water siphon: a hose full of water,
one heater, supplemental heat for occasional one end in a tank, the other end outside and
rooms, or a larger type of batch-burn ma- lower than the level in the tank. When the
sonry heater or industrial boiler. Consider fall is great enough, the weight of the water in
reducing the heating load with insulation, the long outside end pulls water up over the
weatherization, and zone heating design. rim of the tank to drain the tank. The siphon
works as long as there is a difference in height,
Can I use it to cook and bake? and the siphon stays full (no air leaks).
Can it supply hot water? Heat rises — heated fluids rise as they
The primary purpose of a rocket mass heater are replaced with cooler fluids. So with
is for home heating and cooling. enough heat, we can turn the siphon idea
Cooking and hot water are needed year- upside down. A tall, hot, updrafting chim-
round, but heating is a seasonal need. Would ney draws flames or air upward. Cool air
you want to heat the living room as well as flows inward at the bottom. If we connect
the kitchen every time you cook in summer? a very hot, very tall chimney to a downward
We like to have separate cookstoves and air intake, we can draw air and even flames
heating units, perhaps even an outdoor sideways and upside down.
summer kitchen, but in a pinch you could Cooled gases no longer rise. So not just
do a bypass on your rocket mass heater for height but temperature, and therefore flow
summer cooking. volume and length, affect the success of
A rocket mass heater does provide suffi- thermosiphon systems.
cient stovetop heat for emergency cooking. A leaky thermosiphon doesn’t work any
It’s more often a simmer than a full boil, but better than a leaky water siphon. If you have
gets hot enough for soup, tea, and delicate air holes in the bottom of a rocket firebox,
French sauces and desserts. The stovetop it- both vertical openings leak smoke upward
self can also be used as a griddle, with care. as you might expect.
The downdraft in the bell requires either tunnel, you could use two courses the 4˝
cooling, or a warm exit chimney providing way to make an 8˝ tall burn tunnel.
onward draft. The insulation around the heat
• Divide 50 square inches by the new height,
riser helps maintain a difference between
8˝, to find the new width you need: 6.25
rising internal flames and cooling, falling
inches.
external exhaust. The metal bell sheds heat
• The feed opening and heat riser would
into the room, cooling the exhaust gases as
also be 6.25˝ wide, so these openings need
they fall. Contraflow masonry heaters made
to be 6.25˝ by 8˝.
of tile or brick don’t shed heat this rapid-
• The bridge over the burn tunnel is easi-
ly, so they often use shorter heat-exchange
est to make with full-size bricks. You may
paths and rely on a hotter exit chimney for
need to adjust the burn tunnel length so
overall draft.
there is room for 4, 5, or 6 bricks plus the
Why don’t my dimensions come out two openings (22˝ to 25˝).
right in the firebox? • Adjust your template to any new dimen-
sions, and maintain those dimensions
Check that your bricks match the given di-
throughout.
mensions, and are not irregular. Occasionally
you may find that you have inherited a pile Making a heat riser 7˝ by 7.5˝, or 6.25˝
of odd-sized brick, and need to adjust the by 8˝, is not practical with shorter 8˝ brick.
dimensions. There is no support at the corners. Either use
Once you know the interior dimen- the materials specified (9˝ long firebrick),
sions are workable, remember to ignore the or cut the bricks into shorter lengths so
outside corners. Start by aligning an inside you can use 2 trimmed bricks for the long
corner, every time. Build a cardboard or sides.
wooden form for the inside if you have to,
and lay the bricks snug up against it. Work Can I make the firebox a lot bigger?
in a spiral, so that each brick has an inside Can I make a miniature for my camper?
corner butted up against the previous brick. Scale changes really mess with fire. We have
The outside corner can extend out unevenly yet to see a 4˝ mass heater that works well,
into space. This gets easier with practice. although this size can work for smaller radi-
ant heaters or cookers. Smaller stoves may
How do I make the firebox with be smokier or require more tending than a
a different size of brick? larger model, just due to the variable nature
Make the height as close as possible with of wood fuel and more delicate draft bal-
some combination of your available brick. ance. We would tend to build a 6˝ system
Adjust the width to make the proper for spaces that can take the weight, and just
cross-sectional area: a 50 to 52 square inch run it less.
opening for our standard 8˝ heater. The few examples of 10˝ and 12˝ mass
For example, if you have some 4˝ by 2˝ heaters we’ve seen are scary-hot. Outdoor
bricks that just won’t make a 7˝ tall burn prototyping is definitely recommended: a
FAQs 167
30% increase in diameter more than dou- need to un-learn some things to operate a
bles the heat output (and fuel consumption, clean-burning heater.
and strains the heat tolerance of most avail- There are promising batch-box designs
able materials). in development, but they require precise air
If you really want to burn a lot of wood supplies and fire layout to operate cleanly.
at once, you may want a batch-burn ma- Some promising larger heaters are reviewed
sonry heater, or a private consultation for in Appendix 3. We have also seen numerous
light industry designs (such as wood-drying heaters that don’t burn hot or clean enough,
kilns). or where a disproportionately large firebox
leads to smoke that can leak, backflash, or
Can I make the feed taller to take deposit creosote.
longer firewood (18˝, 24˝, 48˝)? If you know you will need a much larger
Because the thermal siphon depends on a heater for your climate or home, consider
difference in height, making the feed taller proven types of batch-burn masonry heaters.
requires making the heat riser much taller
yet. The heat riser must be three times taller Thermal Mass
than the feed, so a 24 inch feed would call How do they start when cold?
for a 72˝ (6-foot-tall) heat riser. All chimneys draw better when they are sig-
This added height sometimes just doesn’t nificantly warmer than outside air. As long
fit in rooms, especially if you want to be able as the heater is operated at least a few times
to lift the barrel over the heat riser for main- per week, the system remains warmer than
tenance access. outside air and is easy to start. Coping meth-
It’s probably simpler to cut firewood to ods when the mass is colder than outside air
standard lengths of about 15–16˝. Shorter are described under “Cold Starts,” Chapter 5,
cuts dry faster, too. To limit saw time, con- Operations and Maintenance.
sider collecting smaller branch-type fuels In warmer climates, where the heater
normally discarded as yard debris. may be used on mild days or rare occasions,
Can I make the fuel feed bigger, we often design a shorter heat exchanger
horizontal, or more like my woodstove? and hotter exhaust.
Most woodstoves produce significant smoke Doesn’t all that mass take a long time
during routine use, which can turn into to heat up?
creosote. Therefore by law, woodstoves have The lag time is proportional to your heat
a minimum draft temperature of 350°F to storage, and unavoidable. If we are not
keep smoke from depositing creosote in the using it regularly, our heater may take a day
chimney. To safely operate a heater which to warm up from 55° to 75°F or so, and two
extracts more warmth from the exhaust days to cool back down. The radiant heat
through a heat-exchange mass, you MUST from the metal bell is instant, however, and
have a clean-burning firebox. In short, if offers an immediate sort of comfort while
woodstoves are what you know, you might the mass warms up.
If this sounds inconvenient, consid- your entire family and guests to sit and relax
er other forms of wood heat. A responsive on your new heater, where would you put it?
wood-burning stove has a tendency to over We recommend displacing your favor-
heat easily and cool off quickly. Boilers can ite sofa and putting the heater where it will
be run at a relatively steady temperature, but get the most use, as permanent built-in
require regular outdoor feedings of enor- furniture. A heated bench, bed, sofa, floor,
mous amounts of wood (due to losses in or workbench lets you continue to use the
transmission in all cases, and smoky, ineffi- space the heater takes up. Most owners will
cient fires in many designs). get more satisfaction from the heater, both
Most people want a stable, comfortable financially and physically, when they sit di-
indoor temperature. Thermal mass excels at rectly on it.
stabilizing the temperature, in all seasons. It
That’s a lot of weight. Can I make a
usually keeps us more comfortable with less
heater like this, but with less mass?
work; we learn to plan around the lag time.
“Lightweight” heaters, by definition, cannot
To save space, can I make it taller, store heat in thermal mass. The old mini-
or build it into a wall? mum definition of 1500 lbs would be a very
small (single-room) masonry heater.
It is certainly possible to make the entire
There has been some interest in “granu-
mass tall (like a masonry wall), or compact
lar” mass heaters — big boxes or concrete
(like a cube). Another option is to sink the
bins filled with gravel and rocks. However,
mass into the floor, so that only the com-
these heaters can be even heavier than solid
bustion unit sticks up into the room.
mass versions, while storing less heat and
Some European masonry heaters are
using more fuel. For now, “portable” mass
built as dividing walls between 4 or 5 rooms.
heaters are relegated to Appendix 3.
There’s no reason you couldn’t do the same
Our current recommendation for spaces
with a rocket heater, if you have the patience
that can’t be altered or take the weight, such
to work around local code requirements.
as campers or rental homes, is to improve in-
(See Chapter 6.)
sulation first (drapes, wall art if you can’t alter
No heater should be part of a foundation
the exterior walls). Thermal mass can some-
or external wall; the heat lost to outdoors
times be added within the safe limits of the
and to ground damp can be enormous.
structure’s design, such as masonry splash-
Can I fit it behind my current backs or surrounds behind heat sources.
hide-a-bed sofa?
Materials and Methods
You won’t get the full benefit of the heater
Do I have to make it out of dirt?
if you tuck it out of the way where you can’t
sit directly on it. They are designed to heat Why do you make it out of dirt and
people, not space. not concrete?
Think of the heated bench as a luxury As it turns out, dirt is more comfortable to
you can offer your guests: If you wanted sit on than concrete. Also, clay-rich materials
FAQs 169
holds almost twice as much heat per pound negative pressure problems. Basement
as a typical concrete. But you can make a heaters will definitely need a full-height
concrete box if you want the look and feel chimney to above the roof ridge; do not
of concrete in your home, and are willing to attempt to vent a basement stove out at
sacrifice efficiency and comfort. ground level.
See Chapter 4 and Appendix 1 for more • A seldom-used heater does not save fuel,
on this topic. and is not much good for emergencies,
as it’s difficult to start a fire with a cold
Can I make a metal firebox? chimney.
Metal is not suitable for high-temperature Better heating options may include:
fireboxes; it will warp and burn out with ex-
tended use. • Build up a footing to bring the heater into
the occupied space, or flush with the floor.
What else can I use for … (insulation, • Locate the heater on an existing slab such
firebrick, barrel, etc.)? as an attached garage, or in a daylight base-
See alternatives in Chapter 4 and Appendices ment, convenient to everyday activities.
1 and 6. • Build an addition off the main living areas
of the house for easier foundation work,
Site/Location and insulate it well.
Can I put a rocket mass heater • Consider a different type of energy-effi-
in my basement? cient heater that is designed for basement
Not recommended unless it’s part of the installation and automated operation,
lived-in home. It’s best to locate a mass heat- such as a decent furnace or boiler.
er in the occupied parts of the house, where Can I build it over my existing floor?
it’s efficient and convenient to operate.
If your (daylight) basement is where you We have seen a few rocket mass heaters built
spend most of the day or evening, tending over existing, suspended-wood floors.
a fire there might be convenient. But most We prefer to see heaters built on noncom-
basements are occasional-use spaces at best. bustible foundations. This has been standard
The differences between a basement and practice for fireplaces and masonry heat-
ground-floor project include: ers for a very long time — long before the
building codes made it a legal requirement.
• Uninsulated cellar walls soak up a lot of If your floor happens to be an existing
heat. Locating this type of heater in an concrete slab, that’s great luck. A 4˝ concrete
unoccupied basement adds a massive, slab on grade will easily hold the weight of
poorly-insulated space to the heating load. a low masonry bench, up to about 30˝ aver-
• Basements may present severe problems age height (or an 18˝ bench with up to 48˝
of ventilation, damp, and negative air seat back). Even compacted gravel (as for
pressure. The lowest parts of a building many greenhouse or barn pads) can work
naturally draw in cool air, and may have well, with damp protection.
The problems with building heavy ma- In some areas “rock jacks” are popular —
sonry over a suspended wood floor include: a metal post filled with small-aggregate
concrete.
• Weight support: Most wood floors are de-
Include an expansion joint or thin air-
signed for dead loads of 40 to 100 pounds
gap between metal and masonry, so that
per square foot, and a rocket heater typi-
their different movements will not cause
cally brings 130 to 225 lbs/sq. ft. for a low
cracking.
bench (more like library stacks or a large
aquarium). How can I have the heater closer to the
• Movement: Wood tends to flex with time wall, or go through the wall?
and weather; masonry doesn’t flex well, and Can I locate the bell and firebox in one
needs stiff supports to prevent cracking.
room, but have the bench go through
• Fire danger: Raised air gaps and a lot of
the wall into another room?
extra insulation on the underside of the
heater can protect the floor — as long as See the discussion of wing walls toward the
they remain intact. The air gaps must be end of Chapter 6.
big enough for good flow, monitoring, Can I locate the bell and bench in my
and cleaning; operator neglect could in- room, and just have the feed outside?
crease the hazard.
We do not recommend trying to locate a
• Moisture compatibility: Masonry can trap
wall between the wood feed and the bar-
moisture or condensation against wood,
rel. There simply isn’t room while retaining
accelerating rot.
the proper proportions. Many versions
• Finally, the extra materials and air-chan-
we’ve seen are a serious fire hazard, and
nels can make the heater a bit tall for
even the most prudent versions tend to
comfortable seating and cooking, and add
make the stove cantankerous to operate and
more weight.
maintain.
We definitely prefer noncombustible foot-
Can I use my existing masonry chimney?
ings, and most building codes require them.
If you have a masonry chimney in good
How close can the heater be to nearby condition, with a suitable flue size, you can
walls, windows, or walkways? use it for a rocket mass heater. Exposed ma-
Minimum clearances and thicknesses are sonry chimneys (on the outside of the wall)
heavily regulated. Your local building office should have an insulated liner, insulated
may insist on particular specs to meet local chase, and/or a way to preheat the chimney
code. See Chapter 6. when it is colder than the house.
Flue size should be approximately the
How do I deal with a combustible wall or same cross-sectional area as system size—
load-bearing post too close to the heater? see Chapter 6 for compatible flue sizes.
One engineer suggested replacing a 4x4˝ Oversized chimneys should be lined with an
wooden post with a 4˝ diameter metal post. insulated liner to match the new heater.
FAQs 171
Safety and Code: of the other proponents are his students.

Clearances, Foundations, Unfortunately, unconventional sideways
Thickness “chimneys” do not work well in convention-
al homes.
Can I just use the design you present We originally covered this issue, in
in this book? detail, in almost every chapter. We’ve win-
With our compliments. However, we can’t nowed it down to just the even chapters.
guarantee that anyone else will approve it. See “Chimney Methods: Up or Sideways?”
Please look into your local jurisdiction’s ap- in Chapter 4, and discussions in Chapters 2,
plicable rules, and make informed decisions Chapter 6, and Appendix 3.
about compliance.
Can I use the same (shared) chimney flue
Do I really need to ... (meet all those for the rocket stove and another appliance?
other specifications)? Not safely. Exhaust from one appliance can
For your convenience, we have removed over backdraft down the other. It’s better than no
50,000 superfluous or unnecessary words chimney, but not by much. It’s not physical-
from this book. What remains is the informa- ly possible for the flue to be the correct size
tion we consider critical for reliable results. for each device operating alone, yet also the
Questions about cutting corners are a correct size for both devices operating at the
matter of function and risk. “What am I same time.
risking if I don’t do X?” The answer depends With a relatively low-temperature ex-
on what you do instead. See the “Warnings” haust like a rocket stove, the exhaust can
section of Chapter 5. easily leak back down into the house through
We have laid out the workable alter- the other device. Separate flues are the best
natives we personally would still consider approach, and the only one allowed under
doing, having tried many others. We’ve in- code in most areas.
cluded options that may not meet current
codes, because codes are not the same every- Do I need a masonry footing
where and they do change with time. or foundation?
If the risks seem tolerable and you want It’s a good idea, and may be required by
to experiment, do your own research, and your local building codes. This is hard to fix
build in the option to fix it later. later. See discussion in Chapters 2 and 6.
Do I really need a vertical, through-roof Can I reduce these clearances?

chimney? Do I really need a 4˝ air gap behind
(That “other book” says these heaters can ex-
the “zero clearance” heated bench?
haust out the wall like a dryer vent.) The bottom line is that any nearby com-
The first books about rocket mass heaters bustibles, such as wood trim, wallboard, or
were written by a man whose house is 100 cushions, must stay below 165°F for safety
“round feet” and has no roof vents. Most (75°C). Hazardous temperatures begin as
low as 185°F / 85°C (plastics, paints, and distribution. Whatever bell you install must
wood finishes begin to degrade, and may be- be about the same height and width. If using a
come more flammable with time). Anything masonry bell, the radiant heat and downdraft
combustible that is too hot to touch is a fire properties will be different, and therefore the
hazard, and needs to be removed or properly draft proportions may need to be adjusted.
heat shielded before you can safely use the There are ways to decorate the barrel, or
heater. upgrade it, without compromising func-
It’s generally easier to build in an extra tion. See the “Barrel Decoration” section in
inch of clearance from the beginning, than Appendix 6.
to move the heater an inch after it’s built. One dilemma in photographing attrac-
tive rocket mass heaters is that the quality
Why does the bench need to be 4˝ or of heat from an exposed barrel feels so nice
5˝ thick? that owners learn to ignore the looks. We re-
Can I make it thinner (to reduce mass, size, moved a decorative copper sheathing from
or for quicker heat-up and cool-down)? our Cabin 8˝ heater because we preferred
We have seen problems with both hot spots the quality of heat from the steel.
and structural integrity in benches where
Can I use cushions or a mattress on top
the masonry was thin. A cob surface of 2˝
of the heated bench?
or 3˝ can create a hot spot over the pipes,
sometimes hot enough to damage synthet- When built to the design standards described
ic fabric. This can be fixed by adding more in Chapter 4, the bench can have heat-tol-
masonry or plaster atop the bench. erant cushions or blankets in contact with
It is harder to fix structural problems the surface. See Chapter 5 for suitable fabric
when the pipes are crushed due to insuffi- ideas.
cient side-wall support. Often, the heater Do I have to make it out of mud?
must be torn apart to replace the crushed
pipes. This problem is most common during No. See “Materials and Methods” above,
construction: someone stands on the wet and Appendix 1. Earthen-cored heaters can
bench, or tries to build on top of the duct- be finished with natural plasters such as clay,
ing before the sides are firmly supported. lime, gypsum, or with stone or tile details.
For a totally brick or stone facade, it’s best to
Aesthetic Concerns build with these materials and then fill with
earth or clay-based mortar.
Do I have to put an oil drum in my
living room? Performance and
Can I replace or cover the barrel Troubleshooting
with something more attractive? Is there someone who can build one
It doesn’t have to look like an oil drum, but it for me?
should work like one. A weathered or black- See “Resources” in Chapter 5 for good plac-
ened steel cylinder gives great radiant heat es to look for builders or advice.
FAQs 173
Expect a professional installation to cost Fuel Feed Errors

more — a realistic bid will have at least Common Error: Sideways Fuel Feed
four figures. As with any remodeling job,
Many people have tried converting the
“unforseen problems” are common, and ex-
vertical J-tube to a horizontal or diagonal
perienced contractors bid with this in mind.
L-feed, some with more success than others.
Common Errors by Location The trick with a horizontal feed is to
Firebox Errors maintain a perfectly clean burn. Without at-
tention, a horizontal fire may smother itself,
Common Error: “Outside Air” causing smoke and creosote. Smaller fires
Introducing “outside air” to the firebox tend to go out; larger fires make a large vol-
anywhere below the feed opening causes ume of smoke that needs somewhere to go.
smoke-back from the fuel-feed opening. Adding a door offers air and smoke control
Extra air breaks the siphon, and the feed on the room side, but may just exhaust smoke
becomes a second chimney. If outside air outward and worsen the creosote problem.
is needed, it must enter through the feed A diagonal feed offers the worst of both
opening (see Chapter 6, Appendix 3). worlds: fuel does not self-feed and tends
to smother itself, yet there is a large warm
Common Error: Metal Firebox
space above the fuel that can draw smoke
Your typical barbecue or cook-stove does not backwards into the room.
get this hot. At the temperatures routinely If the J-style firebox featured here does
achieved in a clean-burning rocket firebox not meet your approval, we recommend
(1200–2000°F), metals warp and expand, looking into other well-developed heater de-
can crack any surrounding masonry, and signs. The Holmes/van den Berg batch box
most will oxidize and become more brittle rocket heaters show promise as a horizontal-
within the first heating season. Metals are ly-fed system, with different heat-exchange
not suitable for a rocket mass heater firebox. proportions and rules of thumb. (In our
Firebox interiors should be made of suitable opinion they require more discipline to run
refractory materials as described in Chapter cleanly, but when operated carefully they
4 and Appendix 1. give excellent results.) Many traditional
Common Error: masonry heaters are also designed for batch
Incorrect Firebox Proportions loading. The J-style firebox was designed to
minimize fuel use, not to replicate familiar
The firebox acts as a unit. The heat riser
large-volume fireboxes.
must be tall, the fuel feed short, the burn
tunnel just long enough but not too long, Heat Riser Errors
and the cross-sectional area (CSA) consis-
tent through all parts. If the heat riser is Common Errors:
reduced in height, CSA, or insulation value, Heat Riser Not Insulated
or the fuel feed or burn tunnel are enlarged, Poor insulation or air leaks between heat
the firebox does not work properly. riser and bell can interfere with downward
draft in the bell. If the hot exhaust stagnates mask appearance, converting some radiant
at the top of the bell, it can drown the fire in heat into upward-moving warm air. See
its own exhaust. Poor insulation will often “Barrel Deco Design Challenge,” toward
display a delayed reaction, where the heater the end of Appendix 6.
drafts fine at first, then the draft suddenly The bell should never be embedded in a
fails about 30 minutes later (as the heat riser load-bearing wall or other structures — this
material heats through). Stagnation can makes repairs or maintenance access ex-
result in smoke pouring out the feed. Fix tremely difficult, and the heat expansion of
before using the heater again. the hot metal at the top of the barrel often
cracks any masonry in contact.
Common Error: Heat Riser Too Short
Some builders who have only seen the Common Error: Unsafe Clearance
firebox operate as a stand-alone outdoor from Bell to Combustibles
system (such as a rocket cookstoves or A bell that does not have 5˝ thick masonry
camp stove) underestimate the necessary sides would be required to have 36˝ clear-
height of the heat riser. The heat riser is ance under IRC section 1002 for masonry
the primary engine for the system, drawing heaters. A non-certified (metal) woodstove
flames upside down and sideways, and pro- under most local codes requires a simi-
viding the initial push to get things started lar clearance, but this clearance can be
through the heat-exchange channels. The reduced with heat shielding. A standard,
heat riser should be at least three times as wall-mounted metal heat shield with 1˝
tall as the fuel feed, and at least twice as tall air gap, and 3˝ air gap top and bottom,
as the burn tunnel, as shown in Chapters 4 would allow the metal stove to be 18˝ from
and 6. the wall. The greatest permissible reduc-
tions that we have seen for non-certified
Bell/Barrel Errors
woodstoves would allow a minimum 12˝
Common Error: Covering the Bell clearance with very good, multi-layered heat
Many people don’t love the appearance shielding.
of a weathered steel cylinder in the living If a combustible wall gets hot enough,
room, so they experiment with ways to more than about 150° to 160°F, the wood
cover it. Any insulation in contact with the and paper slowly bake and become more
bell can cause the system not to draft prop- flammable over time. Any signs of discolor-
erly — similar to the stagnation problems ation or other changes (melting, warping) in
experienced with an noninsulated heat riser, combustible materials, or any combustible
above. Up to one third of the metal surface materials that become too hot to comfort-
can be covered with dense, noncombustible ably touch during heater operation, means
decorative materials without affecting per- the clearances are not adequate for safety.
formance: earthen masonry, tile, plasters, or Remove combustible materials and/or im-
similar materials. Heat shielding suspended prove the heat shielding before using the
on or behind the bell can also be used to heater again.
FAQs 175
Common Error: Heat-exchange Errors

Air Leaks in Manifold or Bell Common Error: Heat-exchange
Even if no smoke escapes, if air can get into Channels Improperly Sized
the bell, the exhaust can stagnate at the top There are currently two models for how to
of the bell. This can cause the fire to smoth- size the heat-exchange passages: the Evans
er in its own smoke, and to smoke back into channel system, and the bell system. The
the room. Make sure the bell and manifold channel system requires consistent CSA
are well sealed, including any nearby clean throughout, smooth turns, and no unnec-
out access door(s). essary roughness or corrugations. Stovepipe,
steel ducting, or clay chimney liner or drain
Manifold Errors tiles have all been found to work well. Do
The manifold is difficult for people to envi- not use corrugated material unless nothing
sion and construct. else is available (see below).
The bell system, used by builders such
Common Error: as Peter van den Berg and Matt Walker
Manifold Not Big Enough Remine, has a completely different set of
When transitioning from the side of the bell rules. A bell is a heat-trapping cavity that
into the horizontal heat-exchange bench, it is at least four times the system flow area,
is easy to leave a too-small slot. Peter van and has its entrance and exit quite a bit
den Berg suggests that if it’s a right-angle lower than its top. If the entrance and exit
turn, the opening should be at least 150% are near each other, sometimes a short wall
of the systems’ cross-sectional area (CSA) or baffle is provided to stop exhaust flowing
to avoid flow restrictions. If the pipe rests directly from one to the other. The goal is
on the bottom of the manifold chamber, for the hottest exhaust gases to rise, stratify,
then the bottom of the pipe receives no air and give up their heat at the top of the bell,
flow (it all comes from the top and sides), while only the cooler exhaust gases escape
and should not be counted toward the from the low exit opening and proceed to-
total flow area. For slot-like openings with ward the chimney. “Cooler” is relative, as
a pipe in the side, both Peter and Erica the exhaust gases must still have enough
feel that the minimum slot width is about heat to rise up the exit chimney. Bells are
half the pipe’s radius: 4˝ for an 8˝ system, commonly sized to the system’s heat output
3˝ for a 6˝ system. Ernie has demonstrat- by comparing their internal surface area;
ed that some systems work despite slight metal and masonry have slightly different
restrictions (down to about 2˝), but all heat-extraction rates.
builders agree that smaller manifolds can If the heat-exchange channels vary in
more easily become clogged with ash that size, for example by using the wrong size
impedes the heater’s draft. If a heater that elbow or transitioning back and forth be-
has operated reliably through most of the tween two or three available sizes of pipe, it
season starts having draft problems, clean creates a lot of drag and can cause the sys-
the manifold. tem not to draft adequately.
Common Error: U-trap or Downward- use adjustable elbows to achieve the neces-
flowing Exhaust Structures sary turns more smoothly.
Horizontal pipes of consistent CSA, with
a slight rise toward the exhaust, work well Common Error: No Thermal Mass,
in the heat-exchange bench. Pipes that go “Light-weight Mass”
up and down create heat traps: hot exhaust Without thermal mass storage, the efficiency
stagnates at the top, cooler exhaust and con- of a rocket heater is greatly reduced. If you
densates (water or fog) get trapped in the do not need stored heat for overnight com-
low spots. If you need the exhaust to enter fort, but only a quick burst of heat during
and exit at very different elevations, con- brief activities like cooking, entertaining, or
sider a bell (four times the system area) to garage hobbies, consider a purpose-built ra-
avoid U-trap-type restrictions. diant heater instead of a mass heater.
Heat storage is calculated by weight and
Common Error: temperature of the mass — less mass sim-
Corrugated or Rough Channel Liners ply cannot store as much heat. Versions like
If using the linear channel version, any sand or pebble-style removable mass, with a
roughness creates drag which can slow the lot of trapped air, can prevent heat transfer;
system down or even effectively plug it with thus you have unnecessary mass that isn’t
its own exhaust. It is common to want to use storing much (if any) heat.
corrugated, flexible ducting such as is often In a portable structure, we can see the
used with forced-air systems or mechanical- attraction of removable mass such as oil or
ly vented exhausts. But most builders don’t water, that can be drained for transport,
realize that each foot of corrugated materi- but consider the problems of leaks, corro-
al creates the same turbulence and drag as sion, pressure, and steam explosions. Good
about 10 feet of smooth round pipe. insulation is lighter-weight, and cheaper to
Corrugated ducting, rough bricks, or transport, than a large heat-storage mass.
other rough surfaces create unnecessary One compromise option is to heat with a
drag, and if used the system should be short- smaller, conventional cook stove, and put
ened to allow much hotter exhaust up the some thermal mass in the heat shielding
vertical exit chimney to draw more strongly around it and a big pot of water on top.
and overcome the drag. Firebrick channels Some people consider using just the
can be used up to about 20 feet in length. heat-exchange ducting of the rocket heater
It is possible to do very short systems with no mass, like a big radiator. However,
with corrugated material, or a shortened as the Victorians discovered, creosote read-
system with a short length of corrugated ma- ily condenses in such exposed pipes, and a
terial used for an elbow or odd turn. But it’s creosote fire’s intense heat can twist, warp,
difficult to successfully estimate the balance or burst open the pipes, spraying burning
between the extreme drag, and the tempera- tar all over the room like a fire-breathing
ture and weather-related draft to run such a snake. There’s also the more prosaic danger
system efficiently. Better to cut stovepipe or of invisible exhaust leaks.
FAQs 177
Theoretically the rocket firebox should any cracks promptly. If using any system
burn most all the smoke, and prevent creo other than monolithic masonry (such as a
sote problems. pebble-style experimental stove, or back-fill-
In practice, we feel much safer with the ing with loose dirt or gravel), take steps to
exhaust channels double-sealed in liners ensure that the pipe is double-sealed, and
and monolithic earthen masonry, and with have functioning CO and smoke detectors
a surface that allows us to detect and repair nearby.
Appendix 1:
Earthen Building
Why Earthen Masonry Heaters? enough to work well. If you wanted to go
I f you have lived in modular-material

housing all your life, you might wonder
why we prefer clay-based, or “earthen,” ma-
out and buy the components for these heat-
ers, a kit for just the inner core might cost
a few thousand dollars, up to five or six fig-
sonry. Do “primitive mud huts” come to ures for a master mason to build a custom
mind? Why would we not use modern ma- installation. These heaters are beautiful and
terials like concrete? efficient, and most will last several lifetimes,
It’s certainly possible to build a masonry but the cost is daunting.
heater using modern materials — includ- Were masonry heater builders more
ing concrete mortars in the exterior casing common in the past, or was this skill always
masonry. But clay is still a key ingredient in rare and costly? Masonry heaters thousands
the firebox area, for everything from fire- of years old can be found in many parts of
brick and cast-ceramic parts, to the mortar Eurasia, and even common household ver-
(whether it’s a traditional clay-based mortar, sions often last for centuries. With such
or modern refractory mortar with clay as durable products, even a few master masons
just one ingredient). per generation can leave a significant legacy.
Masonry heaters are built twice: there’s But there is also some evidence that com-
an inner core of the high-temperature fire- mon or “vernacular” builders made their
box and flue channels, and then a separate share of heaters, from the fox stoves of an-
layer of outer masonry to store heat and cient Kashmir to the improvised Crimean
please the eye. Because these two layers must stoves heating hospital tents during the later
be kept separate to prevent cracking (the days of the British Empire.
inner one gets much hotter and expands Traditional Eurasian masonry heaters
more), it takes considerable masonry skill to were made with the same local materials as
build these layers separate enough yet close ovens, kilns, and fireplaces: stone, clay, and
179
brick. Clay was often a preferred material and can even strengthen them under the
for sealing the heaters, especially in the fire- right conditions.
box area and for big surfaces (floors, large Concrete makes good basements, but
ovens). In areas with suitable earth, literally earthen masonry makes a healthy house.
anyone could go to the “oven earth” hillside,
scoop out a few buckets of dirt, and build an Traditional vs. Modern
oven that would bake good bread for years Refractories
and years. Refractory materials are the category of ma-
Modern masonry heaters may use the terials used in very high-heat operations,
full range of available materials, but they like smelting, glassblowing, foundries, and
still rely on brick and ceramic components our clean-burning masonry heater firebox-
for the firebox itself. es. Since we may be reaching temperatures
What is ceramic made from? Fired clay. hotter than lava (1800°F), it stands to
Where do we find clay? In the earth. reason that we need special materials that
With the right proportions of aggregates, won’t melt or disintegrate while holding our
clay, and reinforcing fiber, earthen build- clean-burning fire at these temperatures.
ing materials offer great performance and We confess a preference for natural, min-
durability. As Ianto Evans describes in The imally processed, local materials. Reasons
Hand-Sculpted House: “It won’t burn, bugs include accessibility, low toxicity, proven
won’t eat it, and it’s dirt cheap.” performance, sustainability, lower embod-
ied energy, and cost.
Earth:
Historic masonry heaters were usually
• is sturdy made with clay and ceramic clay products.
• is plentiful and cheap As David Lyle put it on page 67 of his excel-
• is more comfortable and resilient than lent work, The Book of Masonry Stoves, “ The
concrete or stone basic building material in all traditional ma-
• is easier to shape than wood, stone, and sonry stoves is clay: clay brick, clay tile, clay
tile mortar. The reason is simple: the expansion/
• has low embodied energy contraction factor. Where all stove parts are
• is nontoxic made of the same kind of clay, they will ex-
• is easily maintained, repaired, or altered pand and contract in unison. This is critical
• naturally regulates temperature and hu- in designing and building masonry stoves. ...
midity without external power In Europe experienced masons will go out
of their way to make clay mortar from the
Well-built earthen cottages have per- same type of clay used to make brick or tile
formed well in earthquakes and seismic-table for the stove.”
testing, although proper detailing is essen- Modern builders may point out that clay
tial (as with any construction method). does not give as strong a bond as modern
Heat does not harm most earthen ma- refractories. However, we see this as an asset
terials (as it does concrete or lime mortars), in certain types of masonry work. Softer
Appendix 1: Earthen Building 181
mortars protect the masonry units, allow dry material (wet it to prevent dust while
re-pointing or repairs, and they offer pre- working).
dictable and noncritical relief for any stress Modern refractory cements may be hard-
cracking. Too-strong mortars may cause er, form a stronger bond, and come rated for
brittle failure; the whole project fails at once, specific heat tolerances. Clean fire burns at
and the masonry units are damaged beyond least 1200°F in ordinary fireplaces (650°C);
repair. Builders understand that no installa- rocket mass heaters typically burn hotter,
tion is truly permanent. Good design allows so a material rated for 2100 to 2700°F is
for future changes, repairs, or even remov- needed (1200 to 1500°C). Portland cement
ing and rebuilding the structure somewhere and lime products degrade around 600 to
else. A soft, resilient mortar protects expen- 1200°F (below 650°C), so they are generally
sive cast parts both during normal use and unsuitable for use in clean-heat fireboxes.
future work. Under proper curing conditions, refrac-
Clay-based surface plasters or floor layers tory cements form a permanent chemical
make it easy to spot and repair any cracks bond. Most kinds resist weathering, although
using simple tools like water and a spoon some older kinds require rain protection.
or a pointing tool. Asian k’ang and ondol Remarkable things can be done with modern
masonry heaters and Roman hypocausts cements, and their composition varies with
are examples where the heater was built as a intended use. Follow manufacturer instruc-
floor or floor platform, often using clay lay- tions regarding preparation, curing time, and
ers to achieve an economical, airtight seal. personal protection such as gloves, respira-
David Lyle quotes Vitruvius’s description, tors, or eyewear.
“These pillars should be two feet in height, Strength and permanence sound like
laid with clay mixed with hair, and covered good qualities to a mason — but in the case
on top with the two-foot tiles which support of stronger mortars, they come at some cost.
the floor.” (p.76, ibid.) Clay mixed with hair Permanence and fixed working times require
is a simple description of an earthen plaster more practice and precision from builders;
or resilient moderate-heat mortar. most novices will spoil a lot of material as
Clay-based traditional masonry is a they learn. Curing conditions must be met;
physical bond only: it is soft when wet, hard badly cured material can’t be reworked.
when dry. Unless it has been “fired” into a Strong, rigid materials must be protected
permanent ceramic, clay masonry can be from cracking with expansion joints. Cracks
resoftened and reworked with water. This will run through the brick rather than
makes clay-based heaters vulnerable to water just the mortar, potentially causing more
damage, like many other building materials structural damage. Repairs may require spe-
(wood, drywall, and other common materi- cialized tools and replacement parts, and
als also require protection from damp), but these are not always locally available.
it also makes repairs easier. Clay is generally Some jurisdictions mandate the use of
nontoxic and safe for children and pets; just modern cements or reinforcement. Reasons
avoid breathing the dust if working with vary, and may not be fully explained (from
seismic concerns, to industry lobbying, to anti- it will handle conditions where traditional
novelty bias). We prefer to meet these safety masonry fails, modern building professionals
standards through practical design solutions love it, and sometimes overestimate its ap-
(such as building heaters that can’t fall on propriate range of uses.
anyone, and building them under a roof ). Portland cements can be used in the
Traditional materials with proper detail- outer cladding for the masonry heater (for
ing can serve for centuries. Proper detailing example as cement-based mortars) provided
for a given climate and material can be veri that there is an expansion joint between the
fied from historic restoration and trade’s inner, clay layers and the outer, cement-type
expertise. The proper detailing to prevent materials.
unforeseen problems with modern materials If any local “expert” suggests Portland
won’t be fully known until they have stood cement in the firebox, refuse — with
the test of time. To protect your investment demonstrations, if necessary. (A mock-up
of time and labor, we recommend using firebox built of concrete pavers and suitable
proven materials where possible. insulation, fired to full heat for about a week
If local conditions don’t require the use of daily heating cycles, proves the point pret-
of chemical cements, we don’t use them. The ty well.)
proven track record of traditional clay-based
materials indicates they can last for centuries Refractory Cements
with good maintenance, or until the roof If your local jurisdiction won’t allow the use
falls in. That seems permanent enough to us. of traditional clays, the firebox can be set
with a thin-set refractory mortar rated for
Modern Alternatives temperatures 2400°F or higher. (Actual fire-
Portland cement is not an acceptable re- box temperatures vary.)
fractory material for the firebox. Portland There are several types of refractory
cement (used in everyday concrete) does not cement, each with its own chemical for-
handle high heats; it turns back to powder mulation and usages. Look for suppliers or
around 600–1000°F. It’s not a great material other local users who may build brick ovens,
for comfort or health, either: it is toxic and pottery kilns, or industrial refineries. Most
caustic to work with, has a limited working refractory cements form a strong, irrevers-
time, is difficult to clean off tools, and can’t ible chemical bond. A few are vulnerable
be re-used once it starts to set. After curing, to water damage after curing, and many re-
its hardness makes it uncomfortable to sit quire special curing procedures.
or stand on, and tough to remodel or repair. Modern cements require more attention
Portland cement is, however, an ideal ma- to all dimensions, including time, because
sonry material for exposed, damp conditions, errors are harder to fix. We usually dry-fit the
and for certain kinds of structural spans, entire firebox without mortar, double-check
which is why it has become the standard clearances, and draw a template before
material for foundations, bridge footings, re-laying with mortar. For those unused
highway ramps, and parking garages. Because to working with brick or this particular
firebox, you may find it worthwhile to make Cob is built with wet lumps of earth, with-
a three-dimensional form out of wood or out formwork. (Adobe is earthen bricks; and
cardboard, in the exact dimensions of the rammed earth, or pisé, is damp earth tamped
firebox interior, which you can set the bricks into forms.) Cob (or clobbe, clom, clay daub,
around (after the mortar cures, the form monolithic adobe) was once widely used in
will need to be removed or burned out, so Western Europe and other humid climates
plan its construction accordingly). Consider worldwide.
dry-fitting (without mortar, or with only Cob was the original material used for
clay slip) any parts that might need eventual rocket mass heaters, and it works well. It
replacement (such as the feed bricks and the seals well, is plastic and easy to shape, and is
first bridge brick). one of the least toxic and least costly forms
Not all refractory products form a re- of masonry. The Oregon Cob method is the
liable seal (they bond hard, but we’ve name given to the artisan process taught by
demolished fireplaces where the cements Cob Cottage Company (of Cottage Grove
shrank and cracked in between the bond- and later Coquille, Oregon), and described
ed portions). Make sure to create secondary in the publications The Hand-Sculpted House
seals with high-temperature refractory in- and The Cobber’s Companion.
sulation and outer masonry, so that any air The Oregon Cob method is sometimes
or smoke leaks will not be able to penetrate looked askance by established tradition-
through all the layers. al builders, as “fussy” or “labor-intensive.”
Follow any instructions on the refracto- But its batch-by-batch mixing, testing, and
ry cement as far as cure-in and first firing amendment process allows science-mind-
protocols. Some refractory products require ed post-industrial folks like us to wrap our
damp-cure followed by a slow drying and heads around the textures that make excel-
a warm-up procedure to reach their best lent earthen building, and to gain confidence
strength. in making real structures from this under
Refractory products that have been appreciated material.
used with some success include Cast-o-lite, In regions where earthen building re-
Sparlite, Cement Fondu, and several others. mains a living tradition, it’s far more
Most castable refractories eventually crack, common to target a handy pit of good-
and we can all recognize that a small, enough dirt, and do whatever’s necessary to
high-temperature firebox has a stressful job. avoid fiddling with it: make adobe blocks,
Experienced masonry heater builders gen- throw it on the wall with a pitchfork, make
erally design their fireboxes to be rebuilt the walls three feet thick if necessary. The
sooner or later. Oregon Cob method standard wall is 8˝
to 12˝ thick, and the Myrtle Library in
Building with Earth: Coquille, Oregon, includes a free-stand-
The Oregon Cob Method ing curved wall 2˝ to 3˝ thick (and 3 feet
Cob is an Old English word meaning “loaf ” tall) that routinely gets sat on by guests of
or “lump.” (There are no corncobs involved.) all sizes. The Oregon Cob standard is more
than sufficient, and probably not necessary, Basic Qualities of Materials

for an 18˝ tall by 30˝ wide mass heater, even Think of earthen masonry like a concrete or
with its 5˝ side walls. But it makes a pretty asphalt bound together with clay instead of
good proof-of-concept for the skeptical. cement or tar. Most of the volume is sand,
Sculpting a comfortable bench or bed gravel, or crushed rock, with just enough
with cob is simple and intuitive. Repairs clay to hold it together.
and remodels can be made by soaking and Modern masons typically buy bagged
removing unwanted material, as described mortar mixes or components and mix them
in Chapter 5, then remixing and reapplying with water. Traditional earthen masonry
the same material in the new location. (Try mostly used the range of local materials that
that with concrete!) could be dug near the building site, with min-
Properly detailed earthen masonry is imal amendments and processing. Soils and
hard-wearing and durable enough to last subsoils vary widely, so local earthen building
for centuries, yet can be owner-maintained, practices or “recipes” may be very different
remodeled, or repaired with minimal tools from region to region. All the historic vari-
and waste. ations can be pretty inspiring — maybe we’ll
It’s most effective to learn earthen build- just refer you to David Sheen’s movie and
ing at a local building project. It is possible photo gallery, First Earth: Uncompromising
to learn on your own, however, especially Ecological Architecture, http://www.david
if you have some prior building experience sheen.com/firstearth.
or other relevant skills. Masons, geologists, The method known as Oregon Cob uses
potters, bakers, trackers, and farmers may field-testing, amendments, and consistent
have an advantage in learning cob. batch testing to get reliable results in any lo-
For workshops, classes, and volunteer cation. While not all areas have “ready-mix”
learning opportunities, check: soils, most locations have the constituent
• Cob Cottage Company, www.cobcottage. materials: deposits of sand, gravel, and clay
com or clay-rich soils.
• regional or topic forums at www.permies. Quantitative Proportions
com
The proportions of materials in historic
• trades sites like the Masonry Heater
earthen masonry mixes vary widely. They
Association, www.mha-net.org
might be:
• individual builders’ websites, such as the
authors at http://www.ErnieAndErica.
• 6–20% true clay
info
• 20–55% fine and coarse sand
There are also good books and videos on • 25–50% rock and gravel
general natural building, natural plasters, • from 1.5% to 60% straw, dung, or other
and cob. The following is a need-to-know fibers
summary to save some of our rural readers a • other soil minerals such as chalks, silts,
trip into town. mica, organics, and larger rocks
Sources: World Heritage Earthen Archi Highly expansive pure clays can be mixed
tecture Initiative, Devon Historical Society, down with silt, mica, or extra aggregate, but
and other sources excerpted in Earthen non-expansive clays are easier to work with.
Building and the Cob Revival: A Reader, col- To buy some clay for high-grade recipes
lected by Cob Cottage Company in Coquille, and testing, look for:
OR.
When choosing dirt and deciding what • fireclay (bagged, powdered clays suitable
to mix with it, what do you look for? for high-temperature uses, like kaolins)
• pottery clay (a range of clays suitable
• Watch for rock-hard dirt paths as a possi- for kiln-firing with minimal shrinkage;
ble indicator of good cob soils. pottery studio “recycle bin” leftovers
• Good garden soil is bad building dirt, and are excellent for most earthen building
vice versa. purposes)
• Dig down below the topsoil (if you have • “mortar clay” (cheaper powdered clays
any). Mineral soil is usually lighter col- with relatively little expansion and shrink-
ored, whereas good topsoil is brown or age)
black. (Some local mineral soils may also • local clay-rich soils (we tend to soak and
be red, yellow, or even blue.) sift any wild-harvested or recycled clay
• Consider digging in an area designated to before building, to soften any partially hy-
become a pond or swale. drated lumps).
• If there is no appropriate excavation site
on the land, look for local sources for Problem Clays
rock-crusher fines, rough sand, and sticky We avoid highly expansive bentonite clays,
clay fill dirt. which can absorb up to 20 times their dry
weight in water; they shrink back as they
Identifying Clay dry, with extreme tendency to crack.
Clay often settles in low spots, ponds, and “Fatty” or brick clays may have greater
puddles. As it dries, the surface cracks and shrinkage but also greater sticking power.
may curl up. Wet clay will be sticky and (In brick-making terms, a “fatty” clay would
slick; if squeezed, it squirts through your need sand added to make good bricks;
fingers. Roll yourself a “worm” and see if ordinary “brick earth” could be used with-
you can curl it around your finger without out amendment.) If you are stuck with a
cracking. If you can squeeze water out of pond-sealer or fatty clay, remember a little
it, it is not clay, but silt. Silt feels velvety in goes a long way. We once got a load of love-
the hand, gritty if you care to sample it with ly red brick clay and ended up doing a lot
your teeth. Silt is too soft and crumbly for of test bricks before we found our mix: we
building, whereas clay is useful, and so are went from our normal 3:1 sand:clay recipe
sand and gravel. up to a whopping 10 parts sand for 1 part
Most natural clay deposits also con- brick clay, to get the right texture and avoid
tain some silt, both mineral and organic. cracking in the dried project.
The cement and lime industries use better options. If you can check a sample
powdered baked clay, called metakaolin, before the dump truck delivers, look for
as a pozzolan (a special ingredient used to coarse materials that feels like sandpaper or
change the properties of certain cements and road grade, not cake flour or seed beads.
plasters). A few places call this metakaolin
“fireclay,” the same name that other places Fiber
use to identify raw clay suitable for fireplace, Where used, fibers serve as both aggre-
firebrick, and furnace purposes. When buy- gate and tensile reinforcement, and hollow
ing bagged clay, if possible, test a sample by straws also increase insulation value. Typical
wetting it and smearing it with your fingers. structural cob might be half or more straw
Raw clay will easily make a sticky paste that by volume, or just a flake or two per batch,
covers your fingerprints. Metakaolin will depending on the other materials and their
act more like silt — gritty or velvety, and purposes. (A flake is the unit that straw bales
not sticky (water rivulets will reveal your are made of, usually 2˝ to 4˝ thick, and a
fingerprints). Because it has already been compressed square about 18˝ on a side.
fired, metakaolin is no longer sticky, and There’s usually 12 to 20 flakes in a 2-string
cannot be used as a binder in cob, earthen bale.) Besides straw, other fibers that may be
plasters, or fireclay mortars. It can be used as used include hair, animal dung, hulls and
an extender in paints, plasters, or mortars, stems of local crops, pulped wood, and syn-
provided that you also get some raw clay to thetics like nylon, glass, or ceramic fiber.
act as the binder. When you look at builders’ recipes, you
will see proportions such as: “1 part clay dirt
Aggregates and 2 or 3 parts sand.” This reflects the fact
As with concrete masonry, sharp sand and that most of our “clay” soils contain more
mixed-size aggregates work best. Rock- than just clay. In that “1 part clay dirt” we
crusher fines, quarry run or “pit run,” or might find 50% true clay, 40% silt, and
any freshly broken sandy material such as some gravel and sand. So if you sifted the
mountain sand are excellent, and they can finished mix from this 2:1 recipe, you’d find
be sifted or screened to the desired fineness. about 15% clay, 10% silt, and 70% sand
Occasionally we get a load of sand or quarry and gravel — right within our historic rang-
fines that already contains some clay, some- es for excellent cob. We have had deliveries
times in the exact proportions to make it of “clay” soils that contained pockets of
“ready-mix” for bulk cob projects. nearly pure silt, and “sand” that contained
Bagged, graded sand can be good but is so much clay it needed more sand added to
often graded for size and color, not sharp- make good cob. So batch testing to a consis-
ness. Beach sand and “pea gravel” are too tent texture is more important than mixing
round for most building projects; they tend with a consistent recipe.
to collapse like a pile of ball bearings. At We estimate that finished cob, like adobe,
lower elevations, water-worn sand may be averages about 95 lbs per cubic foot. Our
sold as “masonry sand” in the absence of “thermal cob” made with particular care,
without straw, or with very dense types of Chapter 3 for other damp-resistant detail-
rock and gravel, can weigh more (maybe up ing options.
to about 135 lbs per cubic foot dry weight). We make several different types of
We base these numbers on our own experi- earthen materials for a typical rocket mass
ence of mixing by volume, plus values given heater. Some good pictures of the cob-mix-
at www.engineeringtoolbox.com. ing process can be found online. For simple
Light-clay straw and straw-rich cob can line drawings, see Becky Bee’s Cob Builder’s
be far lighter (as low as 40–60 lbs per cubic Handbook, http://weblife.org/cob/cob_049.
foot for infill materials, and we’ve recent- html.
ly heard of far lower values in the range of Good mixing is essential — unmixed
15-20 lbs per cubic foot for light-clay insu- clay will crack. If possible, start hydrating
lating straw bricks). These materials are used the clay weeks ahead of time. Fully hydrated
more for insulation than for heat storage. clay is easier to use in all stages of cobbing,
Straw is less conductive than all the other and letting it stand in water is arguably the
materials in cob. If dense thermal mass and least possible work to achieve full hydration.
tensile strength are both wanted, another (For those, like us, who don’t always plan
fiber such as horse dung, or shredded jute, that far ahead, it’s also possible to speedi-
rope, or burlap could be used instead. For ly hydrate the clay by grating it into water,
our low benches, we find that a fiber-free and/or using power-mixers. Mortars and
thermal core works just fine, with a fiber-en- cob will improve if left covered overnight,
hanced outer plaster for harder-wearing like cookie or pie dough improves by a few
contact surfaces. hours in the fridge.) For layers with fiber,
Cob can handle occasional surface the fiber is added last, after the clay and
wettings: the clay swells to slow water pene- sand are thoroughly mixed.
tration. The core moisture levels must remain
below about 13% to 15%, like dry firewood, Clay Slip
to ensure structural integrity. (Source: Mike Clay slip is simply clay and water, mixed to a
Wye & Co, www.mike-wye.co.uk) It is hard liquid suspension. It is used as thin-set mor-
to measure core moisture accurately, but per- tar, surface primer, and ingredient in other
sistent damp patches, mold, rotting straw, mixtures. Always good to have around. The
unpleasant odors, or in extreme cases water following is a rough recipe.
erosion, all can indicate a serious problem.
However, unlike the 2- to 14-story cob
walls that most builders are working with, Clay Slip Recipe
our 18˝ bench probably won’t collapse due
to a little moisture — unless someone steps Fill a 5-gallon bucket about ½ full of water, then add
directly on a pipe while the whole thing is a similar amount of powdered or screened clay. Break
soggy-wet. For outdoor projects, a roof and up any big lumps; soak the clay overnight if possible;
damp-resistant footings are strongly recom- then mix with hands or a paddle mixer. (If we have A
mended; see the “Greenhouse” section in
any concerns about dangerous debris from previous into the bucket until the pile just pokes its tip out of
activities on site (broken glass, e.g.), we use heavy the water. (If the dry clay soaks up your water, add
gloves or tools and pass all clay through a ¼˝ mesh more water.) Allow to soak as long as convenient be-
before handling.) fore mixing.
For dry clay: ¹ ⁄₃ to ½ bag of powdered fireclay Good creamy slip feels slightly sticky to the touch,
(about 20 lbs dry weight) per 5-gallon bucket of coats a spoon or hides your fingerprints, and retains
water. Caution: Avoid breathing clay dust — protect dimples on its surface when splashed around.
mouth and nose while mixing.
For wet clay: Crush lumps with tools or rocks, or
grate damp lumps, like cheese, through a ¼˝ screen
Clay-stabilized Perlite Recipe
1 bag of horticultural or building perlite (4 cubic To do a batch test, make a ball of clay-perlite
feet) + 2–3 gallons of clay slip. mix. It should press together. Then pinch the ball be-
Moisten the perlite with a sprayer hose or water- tween one finger and thumb. You want the mix still
ing can to keep the dust down. (If the bag is soggy, dry enough to burst apart when pinched. If too dry,
drain off excess water before adding clay.) add a little more water or clay slip. If too wet, allow it
Pour the perlite onto a tarp (8´ x 10´ size), with- to dry in the sun, or add some dry perlite if available;
out breathing any dust. then remix and retest.
Drizzle clay slip over the perlite: a scant half-buck-
et of clay slip (2 or 3 gallons) per 4-cu-ft bag of perlite.
Roll the mixture back and forth in the tarp. You
can stomp if you like, but I usually mix it with gloved
hands to completely coat the perlite with clay.
Clay-stabilized Perlite Clay-sand Mortar

We use clay slip to bind the perlite together. Mortars are used to bed unit masonry, such
We make it very dry, with minimal clay, to as bricks, and to create sealed joins between
preserve the insulating air spaces inside the masonry and other materials. Earthen mor-
perlite. tars are particularly heat tolerant.
C A U T I O N — R E S P I R ATO RY Mortar ingredients should be screened
HAZARD: Moisten the perlite before releas- before mixing to remove any large particles.
ing it from the bag, and/or use respiratory Use ¹⁄₈˝ mesh or window screen, or pur-
protection to avoid breathing the extremely chase pre-screened materials by the bag or
fine, sharp particles of perlite dust. yard.
Basic Clay-sand Mortar Recipe
Successful mixes range from straight sandy-clay soil Mix thoroughly.

(just mashed up a bit), to equal parts sand and light- Earthen mortar often improves if allowed to
clay soil (1:1), up to 10 sand:1 clay for fat brick clays. stand overnight, allowing the clay to fully hydrate. If
An average mix has 3–4 parts sand to 1 part hy- you notice any settling (sand on the bottom, clay or
drated pottery clay, fireclay, or sticky clay slip water on top), remix briefly before use.
OR To do a batch test, lay some bricks with it. Mortar
2–3 parts sand to 1 part hydrated local clay-rich should be stiff enough to hold a shallow ridge a
soils (very sticky, but not quite pure clay). few inches tall (soft to almost-stiff peaks), but loose
Water to appropriate texture — a putty-like enough to splooge out when tapped or compressed.
consistency somewhere between cake batter and Any finished mixture should be uniform in appear-
cookie dough; test your first batches by practicing ance: no streaks or lumps of unmixed material.
with some spare bricks.
Traditional mortars are not “brick glue” up. The water content must not be so great
— they do not hold bricks together. They that the mortar slides off the trowel when
hold bricks apart, like filling putty or tiny picked up, nor oozes off the end of a brick
wedges. The mortar’s job is to help you seal when it is laid up.” (pp. 29–30, Bricklaying —
and level the bricks. Plastering — Rock Masonry — Clay Tile by
To see how mortared courses work, lay Louis M. Dezettel, published by Howard
a few damp bricks, compare them with W. Sams & Co, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana,
a level, and then tap the high ones down 1972. Mr. Dezettel is describing Portland
into the mortar. The mortar should be soft cement mortars, but the same consistency
enough to allow you to work on four to and workability applies to all kinds of mor-
eight bricks at a time. Dip each brick in tars, including lime-sand or clay-sand.)
water or weak clay slip before setting to Remember you want an airtight seal on
ensure a good bond with the clay-based these projects as much as you want a level
mortar. course. You can “butter” each brick to make
Our old 1977 edition of the Audel Masons a long ridge by scraping a trowel across each
and Builders Library gives this description of edge at an angle, parallel to the joint. When
mortar consistency: “The amount of water you set the brick, tap it into place to com-
in mortar is more a matter of experience press the ridge, to make a guaranteed seal in
than any rule. Since some water is lost due middle of the joint where the ridge was. You
to absorption by the brick, some allowance may need to add more mortar to one side
is made for this. More important is the effect or the other if the ridge squished unevenly,
on the ease with which mortar is applied to but you will not have hollow bubbles in the
brick when a wall or other structure is laid center just waiting to let gas leak out.
Leftover clay mortar in the bucket may Cob Test Bricks

be re-wetted and re-used, unlike most other Before mixing large batches of cob, it pays to
types of mortar. But don’t try to reclaim the check your materials and proportions. Most
scraps that drop off the project — they may suppliers will give you a sample of their
include lumps of gravel, debris, dust, and masonry sand or other materials — all you
other unwanted materials. Instead, sweep need is about one 5-gallon bucket or sand-
them and dump them into the rough cob bag — to combine with your local mineral
mix or gravel pile. subsoil and determine the final quantities.
Use pint or quart yogurt containers in-
Cob: Thermal and Structural stead of 5-gallon buckets for your test batches.
Cob is very similar to earthen mortar, but is You can mix the test batches by hand or foot.
usually made with rougher materials, more Use as much local mineral soil as possible.
aggregate, and a stiffer consistency (less (Mineral soil is the lighter-colored material
water). Cob is by definition building with beneath the dark topsoil, without many roots
lumps of pliable earth, without formwork; or wrigglers.)
in order to build this way, the material needs Make test batches with the following
to be stiff enough to support its own weight proportions:
(6˝ to 18˝ of wet material can be stacked in
the same day, without formwork, if the cob Sand : Clay
is stiff enough). 0 : 1
We use a basic earthen building mixture 1 : 1
without straw for the core of our benches. 2 : 1
We call it “thermal cob” to distinguish it 4 : 1
from “structural cob,” which contains straw 6 : 1
or long fibers. 10 : 1
Straw is pretty much non-flammable 1 : 0
when encased in clay-sand material; it may
char slightly but you’ll never know it except (We added the “zero” mixes after we
for a faint smell. If you happen to have left- worked on several sites where the “sand”
over straw-cob from another project, it can contained enough clay to be used without
be used in the bench core. However, because further amendment. If you can find such
straw’s hollow core gives it high insulation ready-mix — sometimes available in the
values, too much straw can reduce heat trans- ground, sometimes from rock-crusher fines
fer in the thermal mass. Short benches don’t or stone quarries — it’s ideal for making cob.)
need that much tensile strength anyway, so If your soil is clay-rich, use it in place
the straw is more work to no purpose. of the clay (smaller quantity), and add pur-
Straw or fiber is useful in outer layers chased sand in the larger amounts as above.
that see some wear and strain, and possibly If local soil is sandy, use it in place of the sand
as insulation in low-heat areas (if it’s cheaper (larger quantity), and add a small amount of
than perlite). high-grade ceramic clay or fireclay.
Mix all test batches with water to rough- fieldstone or dressed stone masonry instead
ly the same consistency (like cookie dough of cob. A few bags of clay will make enough
or stiff paste). Shape each batch into a large clay-sand mortar to bed a mostly stone bench
brick, about 8˝ on a side by 2˝ thick. Use the and create a good seal around the pipes.
same forms for each brick if you want to com-
pare shrinkage. Mark the bricks with chalk or Mixing Cob
finger-dots. Take a picture and/or note the Can “cob stomping” be mechanized? Yes,
batch recipes in your project notes, so you but it’s not always worth it. See Chapter 4.
know which brick represents which mixture. Power tools add danger and expense to the
Dry the test bricks in the sun, or even in
an oven. Yes, this might make them crack.
Cob Base Recipe
But if they’re going to crack under heat or
pressure, you want to know NOW, not once
1 part local clay soil
you have mixed three tons of the material
(optional: up to ¼ part additional fireclay slip, or pot-
and layered it into your living room.
tery clay slip, if needed)
Cracking may indicate too much clay.
2–4 parts aggregate (or as determined by test batches
Crumbling or “dusting off” may indicate too
above)
much sand or silt in the mix. Both cracking
or crumbling may indicate not enough mix- Generally this will be 5-gallon buckets of sand and soil,
ing. It is structurally important to break up with quarts or up to a gallon of refined clay slip.
the clay lumps and completely coat the sand Roll the mixture back and forth on an 8´ x 10´ tarp
particles with clay. until the dry materials are roughly combined. Then
Shrinkage from original dimensions can tramp or tamp the material, using sand and gravel to
also indicate too much clay, not enough break up any large clay lumps. Roll again, tramp again,
sand or aggregates, or possibly excess water. a couple more times. Add enough water to make a
A small amount of shrinkage is normal (less cookie-dough texture — soft enough to squash but
than ¹⁄₁₆ inch per foot). Less-expansive clays stiff enough to pile. (I generally run the hose until I see
are easier to work with since they don’t water just starting to pool in the footprints, then mix
shrink as much, even when used to excess. that in, then add more if needed.)
If local soil is very silty or rocky, with- Continue mixing until it passes the batch tests
out a significant amount of sand or clay, you (below). Then you can add more straw or additional
may still be able to use it to bulk up batches sand.
of locally purchased materials. We have done Stomp and roll the cob. Remember: you only need to
mixes with 2–3 parts trucked-in sand, 1 part step on each place once, like kneading bread. Roll it over
local soil (silt/clay), and ¼ part purchased to expose fresh territory, and stomp again. Music im-
clay, in order to make the best of a silty site. proves morale. When almost ready, the cob will begin
Even with industrial vehicles and fuel, it to hold together when you roll the tarp, like dough.
is not usually worth trucking tons of mate- This is a good sign. We sometimes call it “the Seal of
rials more than a few miles to make cob. If Approval.”
the local soil is mostly silt or rock, consider
work site, and with inexperienced operators, should be able to flex your hand 5 to 10
mixing by foot can actually be faster. times before the material starts to fall off.
If you plan ahead, you may be able to Thermal cob may only stick through 3–4
work “accidental cob mixing” into your flexes if it already has its full sand content.
ordinary farm activities, for example add-
Once the batch passes these tests, you
ing sand to a muddy clay-bog in a problem
can add the last parts of aggregate.
driveway before the rainy season, then cart-
ing the whole lot away to your cob project • For Thermal Cob: Add 1 more part of
site and replacing it with the drainage gravel sand or gravel to make a stiff, rough cob
and road-grade rock that you actually need for infill areas (bench core, fireplace or
in that spot. brick oven backing).
• For Structural Cob: Add straw — a flake
Batch Testing Cob or two per 4-bucket batch, or about 2
We check each batch for consistency with cubic feet of loose straw — and thorough-
the following simple, wet tests. ly mix it into the earthen materials. The
more straw, the better, for most purposes.
1. Changeability test: Work it in your hand When the material starts to fall apart, stop
to form a ball. Does it get stiffer, stickier, adding straw — or dip the straw in clay
or better as you work it? If it changes, the slip if you need to keep adding more.
batch needs more mixing. There should • For Earthen Plaster/Rough “Brown-Coat”
be no visible streaks or lumps. or Scratch Coat: Add chopped straw,
2. Drop test: Drop the ball onto the tarp chopped hair, or horse dung to make plas-
from 4´ (about shoulder height). It should ter. Rough plaster is good for filling gaps
remain a ball, or compress slightly into a and cracks in the original material. For
domed lump. No crumbling sand piles. fine plasters, add screened aggregates and
3. Squeeze test: Take a handful in a tight fiber first, and make the mix a little wetter
fist, feel and listen for the gritty sound than cob for better smearing action.
of jamming sand grains. Note any excess Unlike the mineral components of cob,
clay that tries to squeeze out. (I like to natural fibers will decay over time if left
catch the squeeze-out, and then squeeze damp. Batches that sit damp for more
it in my other hand. If the squeeze-out than a week should have fresh fiber worked
is gooshier than the main mix, the batch into them before building. Batches that
can take more sand or straw.) have so much rotted fiber they resemble
4. Smear test: Is it sticky enough? Spread compost should be sent to the garden, not
your fingers like laths for plaster. Smear used in a building project.
some of the mix onto your spread fingers,
and turn your hand over. Can it hold its Earthen Plasters
own weight upside down? Open and close There are a wide range of combinations that
your hand slightly (an inch or two). With work, from sand-clay with a whisper of hair
bare hands and a very good batch, you fiber, to dung plasters or ditema/litema that
may be 60% to 90% fiber with just a hint • Never use scat from animals that eat meat
of clay. or slops, or that are sick.
Sift all materials well, to eliminate par- • Avoid aged or rotted manures; if it looks
ticles bigger than one third the thickness of like topsoil, or has things living in it, send
the intended plaster. (For a ½-inch plaster it to the garden.
layer, use ¹⁄₈-inch hardware cloth or window • Be sure to wash thoroughly with soap and
screen, or bagged and graded “sugar sand.”) water before eating or handling food, of
course.
• 1 part mortar mix (sifted sand and fine
clay) Fine plasters often have additional ingre-
• 1 part soaked and separated fiber dients to beautify or harden the surface:
• If needed, extra clay slip, binders/harden-
• mica, rice hulls, or other “glitter” and
ers, tints, and amendments to suit.
extenders
Use chopped and separated fiber such as: • chalk, whiting, or pigments such as con-
crete pigment, paint tints, natural colored
• chopped straw/short straw animal bed-
clays
ding, sifted through ½˝ mesh.
• white or colored sand for more color
• pet hair or chopped hair trimmings
options
• chopped fiber from old natural-fiber rope,
• hardeners (but remember, more is not
or “oakum” (not tarred)
better):
• cellulose fiber pellets, as sold for concrete
b wheat paste (1 cup per 5-gallon bucket,
mixes
or about a pint per 3-bucket batch),
• horse dung, fresh or dried (or dung from
b yogurt or milk products (about 1 pint
cow, donkey, goat, sheep, elephant, or any
per 3-bucket batch)
other critter that eats mainly dried hay or
b linseed oil: a spoonful per bucket (too
sticks)
much can interfere with the clay’s
Squick Factor: It’s fine to use other ma- bonding)
terials if you don’t like the idea of touching b up to 3% lime putty, or use lime-water
poop. But it works so well, and is available instead of plain water.

so cheaply, and gives such great results that • mold retardants/binder softeners: borax
it’s worth a try. (There is no scent after it or lime.
dries, and not much while working with it
in the wet clay plaster.) Hardeners: More Is Not Better
Overusing hardeners can weaken the mix.
Some safety tips if this is your first foray
Some builders think adding cement will
into handling dung:
improve the situation. “Cement-stabilized”
• Use rubber gloves, or even garden gloves earthen walls are no longer a clay-based
to prevent abrasions. Your skin is a great material, they are very poor concrete. (See
germ barrier, as long as it doesn’t get Graeme North white papers, at www.eco
scratched up. design.co.nz for more information.) Clay
swells when wet, sealing the surface against should not have to perform feats of moun-
moisture penetration. If there is enough lime taineering or balance.
to interfere with the clay, but not enough to Work with a downward pressure, sup-
replace the clay as a surface protecting layer, porting the shape from the side. If the cob
the combination can let water penetrate fur- starts to slump, splooge, or fall outward,
ther yet dry out more slowly. never push it back — this creates a wobbly
Dairy casein, wheat paste, or cactus gel joint that is prone to slump again.
will swell with moisture like clay does, so Slumping usually indicates that you are as
these gel-type hardeners are clay-compati- high as you can go until the cob dries. Stop
ble and can be used in larger amounts (1 or working on that area and move along. Come
2 cups per bucket). Their only limit is the back in a few hours, when the material has
possibility of a too-rich material that peels stiffened somewhat, and trim off any excess
instead of bonding (like any rich paint over with a trowel (using a downward or sidelong
a soft surface), and their nutrition value may motion). Allow the material to firm up sub-
attract pests or mold. stantially before adding more weight on that
More is not always better. Use proven section. The material you’ve removed can be
recipes, or test well. used elsewhere, or mixed into a new batch
For plasters, experiment with finish of cob. In fact, all the grit and earth that
techniques on a dried section of the surface. land on the floor tarps can be mixed back
Watch for cracking, dusting off, and the into a new batch, as long as there’s rough
gloss and colors you want for the finished cob going into the project somewhere.
product. Incorporate as much rubble, gravel, and
broken brick as you can get your hands on.
Applying Cob It’s all thermal mass; just make sure it’s thor-
For the building process, work thick cob in oughly coated in clay slip so it sticks to the
courses, like rough bricks or inverted Legos. cob. Keep rubble back a few inches from
Use downward, poking, and smearing mo- finished surfaces for easier trimming.
tions. (Don’t pat it into pudding, it weakens When the cob is “leather hard” (firm,
the matrix.) If working new material onto dry but cool and dark), step back and evaluate
surfaces, use water or dilute clay slip to moist- the line of your project. Use an old machete,
en the dry surface and improve the bond. flat shovel, or a “cob rasp” (expanded-metal
Think in terms of flat courses for walls lathe over a 2x4 wood block) to trim away
or benches, angled or “keystone” courses for any bulges or proud spots, and bring the
domes and arches, and corbeled or cantile- face plumb and level.
vered courses for overhangs and ledges. But You may see some cracking or shrinking
mostly, if in doubt, keep the courses flat, as the whole mass dries. Allow the mass to
just as if the cobs were bricks or adobes. At dry completely, and check the cracks for
any point, you should be able to walk your structural soundness.
fingers along the finished layers of project as If the material is fully adhered and
if they were tiny little inspectors, and they sealed, but just separated at the surface, you
can just let it dry fully and then plaster over You may want to practice tinting in your
it once it has stabilized. If the cracked area is second coat, in case you feel like stopping
large, crumbling, or unstable, you will want there. If you do need a third coat, it can be
to remove any bad material and fill the gaps thinner, and will wear better for being laid
with a good, stiff, sandy mixture. on over a matching-colored base.
See Chapter 5 for more detail on repair- The finish plaster can also be lime, gyp-
ing cracks and finishing options. sum, or any breathable mineral plaster.
Avoid anything with latex, acrylic, or poly-
Finished Surfaces mer ingredients, and avoid Portland cement
There are several ways to finish earthen stuccos and synthetic grouts.
masonry.
Wood trim:
Burnishing: It’s best to plan ahead and install “dead men”
The simplest method, if you love the color for wood framing before the cob is cured.
and texture of your cob, is to use floats and Dead men are pieces of wood with prickly
trowels to smooth the surface. Remove any branches or spikes on the cob side, and an
straw-joints, protruding rocks, etc., and fill exposed face for framing on the surface side.
in any low spots. As the cob stiffens, wet- The spikes are buried in wet cob, worked in
float over each area to further smooth the well. The framing face is left proud (sticking
straw and aggregates, and burnish clay off out above the surface) for easy framing and
the surface to expose the other materials’ finish plasters. Wood and other materials
color and visual texture. When completely can be attached to the “dead man” after the
dry, finish by burnishing with a curing oil cob is dry. (See Chapter 4, “Wood Trim.”)
(linseed or walnut, e.g.). Make sure to leave good clearances be-
Two- or three-coat plaster: tween heat sources and combustibles. Cob
is a non-flammable material, but buried
After the cob is dry, make a rough plaster
wood can still be damaged by heat.
to fill in any divots or hollow areas of the
wall. Moisten the cob with clay slip before Tile work:
plastering. Any tiles for earthen masonry should be set
Apply the plaster with a trowel or float, in a mineral grout, such as earthen mortar,
in big sweeping motions of the full arm. lime putty, or a lime-sand plaster. Lay out the
Bring the surface as close to plumb as pos- design ahead of time, as for any tile project,
sible with the first coat. Work the plaster then wet or clay-slip the backs of each tile
firmly into any dents, divots, or thumb holes when pressing them into wet plaster. Allow
to adhere it. them to set, and then apply a top-dressing
It’s sometimes easier to use two or three of grout and wipe clean to create a smooth,
thin coats than one thick one — very un- level, finished surface.
even plaster thicknesses may crack. Earthen masonry benefits from re-
Scratch up the previous coating of plaster maining “breathable” — and so will your
before moistening and adding the next coat. household, since this breathable feature
helps stabilize indoor humidity at very com- read the references by Graeme North and
fortable levels. We often recommend using Mike Wye, below, for detailing consider-
tile for detail, or for a vertical or horizontal ations. You may need to give extra attention
surface, but not both. Breathable earth or to thermal expansion jointing as well as
lime plasters on the remaining surfaces can moisture transport.
be an attractive and healthy finish. Ensure that any enclosed earthen ma-
If you do want an entirely tiled surface, sonry or brickwork is completely dry and
using mostly small tiles with reasonable protected from further moisture (includ-
amounts of breathable grout in between can ing ground damp, condensation, weather,
allow enough transpiration to prevent mois- wicking from the cement materials, internal
ture buildup or blistering behind the tiles. exhaust condensation, and spills).
Cement based materials tend to trap
Stone masonry or brick facades: moisture within adjacent natural materials,
Masonry facings can be built into the struc- potentially leading to degradation, crack-
ture course by course, or built up separately ing, or mold issues. Expansion jointing will
and filled with earth or mortar. If the unit be critical around the barrel and firebox if
masonry facing work is structural (supports using rigid masonry (Chapter 4 notes sever-
a seating slab to take weight off the pipes), al points during installation when expansion
then you can consider the earthen mortar as jointing should be considered, and Chapter
“fill” rather than structural cob, and use your 5 gives tips for after-the-fact repairs).
preferred masonry materials and methods.
Natural paints:
Field stone facings can be worked in
place during cob construction. This gives After burnishing or plastering, you may
maximum integration between the visible wish to freshen up or tweak the color.
stone facing and the interior rubble and Paints for natural materials should be
cob. Long, skinny tapers that extend well compatible; they must be breathable —
back into the earthen masonry help tie the able to penetrate into porous material. If the
facing and fill together. paint is too strong, it will bond to itself but
Flat stonework can be added afterwards, not the surface, and eventually peel. If it is
like tile, on the seats and other flat horizon- too watery, it will soak into the surface and
tal surfaces. Cob doesn’t support “glue-on” require more coats to cover.
rockwork on vertical surfaces, so decide in Common natural paints include:
advance if you want a rock front, and build • Clay paint: 1 part clay slip, 1 part pigment
it that way. or extender (e.g., talc, chalk, or mica)
Brick facades can be built first and used • Aliz: 1 part clay, 1 part mica, up to ¼ part
as formwork for the earthen materials. You wheat paste (or use a micaceous clay)
can expect slow settling and slow drying of • Milk paint: milk base: 1 part milk curds or
cob trapped between brick walls. plain yogurt, 1 part saturated borax-water;
If you want to integrate modern, Portland- heat and stir. Add 2 parts pigment plus
cement-type materials in the casing, please extender to make paint. Save pigment
separate from binder. Water as needed to working with a consistent, artful stroke tex-
prime porous surfaces. Makes a very per- ture such as small circles or cross-hatching.
manent bond on woodwork. Many people pay big bucks for faux paint-
• Lime paint/whitewash: 1 part milk base, ing effects that mimic dappled, old-world
2 parts lime putty, pigments and water to materials. You are working with an ancient
suit. Often used as a very watery wash; it material; it’s OK to let the “Mediterranean”
goes on translucent but brightens to white or “Old World” textures show through. If
as it dries. Not very suitable for damp you don’t like the effect, you can always
areas, but repeated coatings can create a paint over it.
soft, lustrous white wall.
• Egg tempera: Contents of 1 egg yolk, plus Detailing for Earthen Structures
an equal amount of water is enough binder Any building needs a good hat and a good
for a few tablespoons of pigment/extender. pair of boots (roof overhangs, and well-
Add water for washes or glaze effects. drained foundations) to ensure the long
life of natural materials. With breathable
Painting on old plaster or earthen ma- weather protection, earthen structures can
terial, one must take care that the paint is last many centuries.
thin enough to penetrate and bond. When We never use vapor-blocking “Band-
working paint onto dried surfaces, do not Aids” like plastic sheathing or concrete
moisten the surface — it can cause surface stucco with earthen masonry. There are too
material to loosen and roll up into the paint. many sad stories about an earthen wall that
Instead, paint directly on the dry surface. If stood for centuries, then got “protected”
needed, water down the paint before apply- with concrete stucco, and collapsed within
ing to make a soaking-in primer coat, and a few years from the moisture trapped in-
allow to dry before going back over the same side the stucco. It is difficult to tailor a vapor
area. Brushes and rags often work better barrier so that it can handle both interior
than rollers. Once the paint is mostly dry, moisture migrating outward, and exterior
you can also go back and burnish with a rag moisture migrating inward. Breathability is
or paper to bring out different sheens and key for cob.
textures.
With natural paints, multiple coats are References and Resources
often needed to produce matte, even effects. Cob and Earthen Building Methods
There’s a balance between pigment loads
Cob Cottage Company in Oregon: www.
and penetration. If you can get good, finely
cobcottage.com, see also The Hand-
ground pigments from a paint supplier or
Sculpted House, by Ianto Evans, Linda
art supply, you will get better paint coverage
Smiley, and Michael Smith, published
with the same appropriate binder and water
by Chelsea Green.
ratios.
Instead of trying to replicate the white The Cob Builder’s Handbook, by Becky Bee
anonymity of drywall, consider deliberately http://weblife.org/cob/.
Clay Culture: Plasters, Paints, and Preserva with detailed plans of historic examples.
tion, by Carol Crews, Gourmet Adobe Also distributed by the Masonry Heaters
Press, Rancho de Taos, New Mexico, Association, www.mha-net.org.
2010, distributed by Chelsea Green. A
good general introduction to earthen While you are browsing the Internet, try
building, particularly the US Southwest the following search terms for inspiration:
methods, and great finish recipes. See Shibam in Yemen, Taos Pueblo and Mesa
www.carolcrews.com. Verde, the Great Wall of China, Dracula’s
Castle Stove, Pyromasse, kachelofen/kak-
General Information/Historic and kelofen, contraflow, k’ang, ondol, tawakhaneh,
Heritage References Swedish candle or Swedish torch.
Graeme North in NZ (www.ecodesign.
Workshops and Local Builders
co.nz) — wet-climate cob code and de-
tailing recommendations for outdoor Since the recent closing of the Natural
protection. Building Network website, there is no sin-
gle site with the sole purpose of professional
Mike Wye in the UK (www.mikewye.co. listings for natural builders. Workshops,
uk) — numerous informative articles on skilled builders, and local project coordina-
historical detailing and appropriate ren- tors can sometimes be found through the
ovation or restoration methods. following online sources:
World Heritage Earthen Architecture Pro- • Permies (permaculture discussion forums):
gram http://whc.unesco.org/en/earthen- www.permies.com/forums.
architecture/ — well-researched detail • The Cob Cottage Company calendar,
on ancient, traditional, and modern www.cobcottage.com.
earthen building in various places. • Authors’ calendar: www.ErnieAndErica.
First Earth — a documentary film about info/upcoming_workshops.
ecological architecture. See http://www. • Leslie Jackson often lists workshops: www.
davidsheen.com/firstearth/film.htm. rocketstoves.com/workshops/.
The Book of Masonry Stoves: Rediscovering The Masonry Heater Association in-
an Old Way of Warming, David Lyle, cludes some members who are interested in
1984, Brick House Publishing Co, Inc. rocket mass heaters, and many talented and
Chelsea Green, White River Junction, certified masons with their own specialties:
Vermont, 1997. A wonderful introduc- www.mha-net.org.
tion to the history of masonry heating,
Appendix 2:
Rocket Mass Heater Building Code (Portland, Oregon)
O riginal text and commentary is

available at: www.portlandoregon.gov/
bds/article/214146, article 09-002 “Rocket
www.portlandoregon.gov/bds/48661?a=
437516]
1. Scope:
Mass Heaters: Final Recommendation.”
1.1 This guide covers the design and con-
[Author comment: This code was original-
struction of Rocket Mass Heaters, a subset
ly drafted in 2009, through a collaboration
of solid fuel burning masonry heaters. It
between Ernie and Erica Wisner, Joshua
provides dimensions for site constructed
Klyber, Bernhard Masterson, and other nat-
rocket mass heaters and clearances that have
ural builders. It was approved for use with a
been derived by experience and found to
one-week permitting process by the Alternative
be consistent with safe installation of those
Technologies Advisory Committee, of which
rocket mass heaters.
Mr. Klyber was a member, in 2013.
1.2 Values given are in English measure-
A few elements in these guidelines do not
ments, and are regarded to be standard. All
agree with our current recommendations, and
dimensions are nominal unless specifically
we’ve inserted author comments pointing them
stated otherwise. All clearances listed in this
out where they appear below, in case readers
guide are actual dimensions.
are considering using these codes as a model
for a local code appeal or amendment. These 2. Definitions:
author comments are not part of the legal- 2.1 Combustion unit: The area where fuel
ly-approved code guidelines. is consumed and clean exhaust produced;
Only the building guidelines have been comprising the fuel feed, burn tunnel, heat
reproduced here; for the full supporting docu riser, barrel, and the manifold.
mentation, including comments on building 2.2 Combustion unit base: Area composed
code conflicts, typical materials, history of use of the fuel feed, ash pit, burn tunnel, insula-
and testing, and other factors, please see http:// tion and casing.
199
2.3 Fuel/air feed: Area where fire is lit and to evaluate the design and construction of
fuel is added. This is the sole air intake. rocket mass heaters. It is not restricted to a
2.4 Ash pit: Optional depression located at specific method of construction, nor does it
bottom of fuel air feed and/or manifold. provide the principles to be followed for the
2.5 Burn tunnel: Horizontal area where ini- safe construction of rocket mass heaters.
tial combustion occurs. 3.2 This guide is not intended as a complete
2.6 Heat riser: Internal chimney, insulated set of directions for construction of rocket
for high-temperature combustion and draft. mass heaters.
2.7 Barrel: Metal or masonry envelope 3.3 Construction of rocket mass heaters is
around the heat riser that radiates heat. complex, and in order to ensure their safe-
2.8 Manifold: The connection between the ty and performance, construction shall be
combustion unit and the heat exchange done by or under the supervision of a skilled
ducting. and experienced rocket mass heater builder.
2.9 Heat-exchanger: The volume of mass
that absorbs heat from the heat exchange 4. Requirements:
ducting and re-radiates it over an extended 4.1 Sizing:
period of time. Comprised of the heat ex- 4.1.1 6˝ flue rocket mass heaters can be
change ducting, thermal core and casing. installed for any heated space 1000 sq. ft.
2.10 Heat exchange ducting: The flues that or less.
carry hot exhaust gas through the thermal mass. 4.1.2 8˝ flue rocket mass heaters are typ-
2.11 Thermal core: Area directly around ical and appropriate for any installation.
heat exchange ducting. 4.1.3 Cross sectional area shall remain
2.12 Flue exhaust: The portion of the duct- consistent throughout the system except
ing after it leaves the thermal core. in the barrel and manifold, where it may
2.13 Casing: Durable external layers to be larger.
protect thermal core, provide additional 4.1.4 Ducting may be tapered to reduce
thermal mass, maintain desired surface tem- diameter by 30–40% in the final third of
perature, and allow decorative expression. its length to improve gas flow. [Author
2.14 Cleanout: Capped opening for main- comment: This may have been a misprint,
tenance access. since reducing the diameter 20% reduces
2.15 Damper: A duct valve that regulates the flow area over 40%. Not recommended
airflow. to reduce the diameter more than 10–20%
2.16 Make up air: Air that is provided to for most systems.]
replace air that is exhausted. 4.2 Foundation: The combustion unit base
2.17 Combustion air: The air provided to and heat exchanger shall be supported by
fuel burning equipment for fuel combustion. a concrete slab or equivalent. Any alterna-
tive configurations or foundations shall be
3. Guidance and use: engineered.
3.1 This guide can be used by code offi- 4.3 Combustion unit: Shall be construct-
cials, architects and other interested parties ed in either earthen masonry or refractory
Appendix 2: Rocket Mass Heater Building Code (Portland, Oregon) 201
materials. If refractory materials are used, an 4.3.5.4 If constructed of metal flue,

expansion joint shall be included between it shall be free from holes, wrinkles,
combustion unit and earthen masonry. burrs, jagged edges or other obstruc-
4.3.1 Mortars, when used, shall be tions. Metal shall be high-temperature
clay-sand, fireclay or suitable refractory stovepipe or steel.
mortar. Mortars may be omitted if using 4.3.5.5 Shall be insulated with mini-
monolithic earthen masonry as an exter- mum of 2˝ (or the maximum amount
nal seal. that does not restrict airflow) of
4.3.2 Fuel feed: clay-perlite insulation or equivalent.
4.3.2.1 Shall be constructed of dense 4.3.6 Barrel:
firebrick, clay brick or equivalent re- 4.3.6.1 Shall be free from holes, wrin-
fractory material able to withstand kles, burrs, jagged edges or other defects.
2200°F. 4.3.6.2 Any existing paint or surface
4.3.2.2 Shall have a closure that serves coatings shall be removed. High-
as an emergency shut down lid. temperature coatings rated for wood-
4.3.2.3 Shall be the sole air intake. stove application such as stove enamel,
4.3.3 Ash pit: cast-iron seasoning oils may be used.
4.3.3.1 If included, shall be located at 4.3.6.3 A cleanout shall be located
bottom of fuel feed. near the base of the barrel that allows
4.3.3.2 Shall be of a depth no greater access to the manifold and initial duct-
than 4˝ below the burn tunnel. ing, or the barrel shall be configured
4.3.4 Burn tunnel: for removal.
4.3.4.1 Shall be constructed of dense 4.4 Heat exchanger:
firebrick, clay brick or equivalent re- 4.4.1 When the heat exchanger mass is
fractory material able to withstand made of earthen masonry it shall rest on a
2200°F. stabilized masonry base with a minimum
4.3.4.2 Shall be insulated with 2˝ of height of 2 inches.
clay-perlite insulation or equivalent 4.4.2 Ash pit: If included, shall be located
underneath, above, and on all sides directly below the manifold and within
except the fuel feed and heat riser easy access of the cleanout.
openings. 4.4.3 Ducting:
4.3.5 Heat riser: 4.4.3.1 Shall be metal flue, ceramic
4.3.5.1 Shall have a minimum height flue liner, well-pointed brick, earthen
of twice the burn tunnel length. block, or equivalent alternative. Metal
4.3.5.2 Shall be at least three times the flue shall be free from holes, wrinkles,
height of the fuel feed. burrs, jagged edges or other defects.
4.3.5.3 Shall be constructed of firebrick, Metal flue shall be at least 26 gauge.
clay brick, metal flue or equivalent 4.4.3.2 Shall be embedded in a contin-
refractory material able to withstand uous layer of earthen masonry for both
2200°F. thermal contact and gas seal.
4.4.4 Cleanouts: 4.6 Make-up air: [Author comment: We con-

4.4.4.1 Shall have a sufficient number sider air pressure problems to be a building
of cleanouts such that all sections of issue rather than a heater issue. This code does
the ducting shall be accessible. not distinguish between dedicated exterior air,
4.4.4.2 Cleanouts shall be the same “outside air,” and make-up air, nor does it ad-
minimum size as system: e.g. 6˝ diam- dress safety issues in outside air construction.
eter for a 6˝ flue rocket mass heater and See Chapter 6 or Appendix 3 for more about
8˝ for an 8˝ flue rocket mass heater. outside air.]
4.4.5 Thermal core shall be encased with a 4.6.1 Rocket mass heaters shall be sup-
minimum of 2˝ thermal earthen masonry plied with an exterior air supply unless
around the ducting. [Author comment: See the room is mechanically ventilated and
Chapter 5 for our current recommendations controlled such that the indoor air pres-
for safe seating temperatures and clearances sure is neutral or positive.
— a 5˝ minimum thickness.] 4.6.2 Exterior air supply:
4.4.6 Casing: 4.6.2.1 Shall be capable of supplying
4.4.6.1 Total thickness to surface from all combustion air from outside the
ducting, for a 6˝ system shall be at dwelling or from spaces that are within
least 4˝ depth around the first 10 feet the dwelling that are non-mechanical-
of ducting, and 3 inches around the ly ventilated with air from outside the
remainder. dwelling.
4.4.6.2 Total thickness to surface from 4.6.2.2 Shall be in the same room as
ducting, for a 8˝ system shall be at the rocket mass heater.
least 6˝ depth around the first 10 feet 4.6.2.3 Shall not be located more than
of ducting, and 4 inches around the 1´ above the height of the fuel feed.
remainder. [Author comment: This is consistent with
4.5 Flue exhaust: other codes, and practical for make-up air
4.5.1 Shall be composed of metal flue, to room. For dedicated outside air, con-
clay flue lining or equivalent. straints are different for this type of heater.
4.5.2 Shall be equipped with a ferrous Our first successful outside air installation
metal damper and shall be operable from is described in Appendix 3 of this book.]
the same room as the rocket mass heater. 4.6.2.4 Exterior air supply inlet shall
4.5.3 Shall have a flue priming port or be protected from precipitation and
other means to ensure proper drafting. vermin.
4.5.4 Exhaust termination: 4.6.2.5 Exterior air supply shall have a
4.5.4.1 Exhaust termination shall be at shut off valve to prevent cold air infil-
least 2´ higher than any portion of a tration when not in use.
building within 10´. 4.7 Clearances:
4.5.4.2 Exhaust termination shall 4.7.1 Fuel feed: A minimum clearance of
be protected from precipitation and 18˝ shall be maintained from combusti-
vermin. ble materials.
Appendix 2: Rocket Mass Heater Building Code (Portland, Oregon) 203
4.7.2 Combustion base: A minimum Heat riser is three times the height of
clearance of 4˝ shall be maintained from the fuel feed.
combustible materials. 2. Confirm proper cross sectional areas.
4.7.3 Barrel: Consistent cross sectional area through-
4.7.3.1 A minimum clearance of 18˝ out system except barrel, manifold, and
shall be maintained from all walls possible 30–40% decrease in final third
without a heat shield. A minimum of flue length.
clearance of 12˝ shall be maintained 3. Confirm clearances.
from all walls with a heat shield includ- 18˝ from fuel feed to combustibles.
ing 1˝ air gap. [Author comment: This is 18˝ from barrel to walls without heat
based on experience in moderate climates shields.
such as Portland; for very cold climates, 12˝ from barrel to walls with heat
where the heater may be run longer and shields with a 1˝ air gap.
have stronger chimney draft, things may 36˝ from barrel to ceiling.
get hotter. Consider heat shielding and 4˝ from combustion base to all com-
clearances around the metal barrel as lo- bustibles.
cally approved for wood burning stoves.] Room for sufficient masonry thickness
4.7.3.2 A minimum clearance of 36˝ around ducting.
shall be maintained from ceiling. 4. Confirm suitable footing and foundation.
4.7.4 Heat exchanger: 5. Confirm appropriate cleanouts.
4.7.4.1 Minimum distance between 6. Confirm presence of flue priming port or
ducting and combustible wall shall be other means to ensure proper drafting.
6˝. 7. Confirm exhaust flue is protected from
4.7.4.2 Any fabric used on seating sur- precipitation and vermin.
faces shall be heat tolerant. 8. If pressure controlled mechanical venti-
lation is not present, confirm exterior air
Inspection Points: supply.
An inspection should be performed after Inlet is located outside dwelling or in
ducting has been installed and while it is non-mechanical ventilated space.
still exposed. Inlet is protected against precipitation
and vermin.
Confirm measurements: Outlet is located in the same room.
1. Proper ratio of heat riser to burn tunnel Outlet is located below fuel feed.
and heat riser. Air supply has shutoff valve.
Heat riser is twice the length of the burn 9. Confirm existence and orderliness of
tunnel. maintenance and operation manual.
Appendix 3:
Special Cases
T he following projects represent

promising or successful experiments
that address common questions and in-
Some people still want use horizontal
exits, either as a dogleg through-wall chim-
ney, or a customized vent. There have been
teresting problems that many readers may occasional success stories when most of the
be interested in solving. They suggest the following conditions are met:
wide range of possible applications of this
technology. • Low-height buildings: typically under 10
feet. 16 to 20 feet (1 story plus attic) is
Alternative Chimneys about the tallest we’ve heard of a success-
Horizontal Exhausts: ful side-exit without mechanical boosters,
Not Recommended and many of these are eventually extended
We no longer recommend through-wall or into a full-height chimney above the roof.
horizontal exhausts for most installations. • Buildings with membrane roofs/no roof
See sidebar “Chimney Methods: Up or vents to compete with a wimpy exhaust
Sideways?” in Chapter 4. chimney.
Many people have the optimistic impres- • Mild climates where outside chimneys
sion that a horizontal exhaust may improve don’t chill too much (and a non-func-
the cost, ease of installation, efficiency, or tioning heater won’t be a life-threatening
discretion of the project. However, because problem).
they work so unreliably, ongoing attempts • Damp or very cool spaces, such as a green-
to remedy the initial mistake can end up house (downward, sheltered exhaust).
costing more and requiring a lot more awk- • Situations where a chimney might be the
ward work — and these chimneys usually only thing that stops the project going
continue to perform worse than a vertical, forward — for reasons such as cost,
through-roof chimney. shared tenancy, or peculiar local laws or
205
covenants. Caution: a project that doesn’t eaves) can push exhaust backward down
work can set back local acceptance even the exit pipe. Tools include:
further. b pivoting “weathervane” chimney caps
• Situations where there is some reason to for short or cold vertical exhausts
try for partial success now in order to save b H-shaped pipes made from 3 T’s (as
up for a proper chimney later, such as seen on boat stoves)

splitting up the cost of the project. b wire cages of large rock (like a country
fencepost or gabion)
SIDE EXHAUST DOs: b barrels with lots of ventilation holes
• Exit high, preferably as close to the ridge • DO EVERYTHING ELSE RIGHT. A

height as possible (on a gable wall or to- system with any other marginal elements
ward the higher end of a shed roof ), to get will compound the draft problems that are
the benefits of an almost-vertical chimney. likely with an unconventional chimney.
Stay away from dripping eaves, especially • See “Chimneys,” in Appendix 4, “Dedi
in snowy/icy climates. cated Outside Air” and “Make-up Air”
• Leave yourself options to do the best below, and “Chimney Methods Up or
possible chimney: to extend to above the Sideways?,” Chapter 4.
roof, build an insulated enclosure, or even • Consider an exhaust fan only if you have
replace the experimental exhaust with other heat sources that will be available in
one inside the building. For example, you a power failure.
could build a capped T into the bench as
a takeoff point for plan B. SIDE EXHAUST DON’Ts:
• Screen. The visitors found in unscreened • Don’t use an unscreened opening.
rocket stoves to date include rats, packrats, • Don’t let undersized vents or clogged
mice, skunks, bandicoots, frogs, newts, screens choke the flow.
insects, snakes, songbirds, and a duck. • Don’t expect a horizontal exhaust to out-
• Weatherize: Use a sealed-on collar to divert compete a tall, warm house.
water running down the chimney before • Don’t expect the exhaust to cooperate. Air
it hits the wall. Consider a drain port at follows pressure, not your willpower or
the bottom of the exposed chimney. intention.
• Fire-proof and smoke-proof: Don’t ex- • Don’t make a “wind scoop” when you are
haust near air intakes, windows, doors, or trying to block the wind. For example, a
right under roof eaves. Use high-tempera- sideways chimney cap can scoop up wind
ture construction methods. if the wind blows along the exit pipe, then
• Limit drifts: Keep fly ash, snow, leaves, is deflected by the cap.
dirt, and debris from blocking the exhaust. • Don’t confuse poor draft with efficiency.
• Control wind: Make the wind flow across A balanced stove self-regulates the draft
the exhaust outlet, not into it, no matter needed for clean, efficient combustion at
what. Wind gusts, pressure, and building the firebox. A stove that doesn’t work reli-
eddies (such as wind whipping around the ably can’t be considered efficient, because
Appendix 3: Special Cases 207
it is useless when it is needed most. When escaping into the room through the con-
we don’t fully “maximize” a particular nected, unused device.
factor, such as low exhaust temperature
as a proxy for efficiency, it’s because we Considerations for Success
feel a functional compromise gives better Size: The existing chimney should have a
results. lined flue in about the same size as the heat-
er, as described in Chapter 6, “Equivalent
Using an Existing
CSA for Gas Flows” sidebar. So, 50 square
Masonry Chimney
inches for an 8˝ heater; 30 square inches for
Existing masonry chimneys have been used a 6˝ heater.
successfully for many rocket mass heaters, Any ports from room into flue should
but as their conditions vary widely, we did also be the appropriate flue size: no necking
not discuss them in Chapter 4. Appropriate down to squeeze an 8˝ heater through a 6˝
flue sizes are listed in the “Equivalent CSA port. A larger, rectangular hole can be cut
for Gas Flows” sidebar in Chapter 6. in the side of most rectangular chimneys if
Terms needed. Cleanout ports need not be the full
A flue is a lined path for smoke or exhaust. dimension, just large enough for convenient
Each flue or pair of lined flues has its own removal of ash/soot/stray wildlife.
structural support, such as a concrete chim- Flues that are too large can be lined with
ney block, a full width of brick between each an appropriate (non-corrugated) chimney
pair of tile-lined flues, or a separate ceiling liner, ideally with insulation between the
box and through-roof kit for each manufac- liner and existing masonry chimney.
tured (metal) chimney flue. Chimney inspection: Any chimney
A chimney is a structure which may con- should be inspected prior to being returned
tain one or several flues. to use. Chimneys may be unsafe to use if
A port is the term we use here for any they have air/smoke leaks, badly cracked or
opening into a flue: the port may include missing liners, creosote buildup, damaged
a cleanout access door, attachment collar, masonry, or obstructions like inoperable
thimble for connecting stovepipe to mason- dampers or wildlife nests.
ry chimney flues, or other hardware. Spark arrestors, and caps: Necessary
more to exclude weather, vermin, and de-
No Shared Flues bris than for sparks, but we do recommend
Two combustion devices should never share installing them.
one flue. It is not possible for a flue to be the Chimney top dampers: We generally do
right size for each device operating alone, not use chimney top dampers with rocket
and have sufficient capacity to safely exhaust mass heaters, as the primary air control at
both devices when operated simultaneous- the feed is sufficient for most needs. (The
ly. In the case of rocket mass heaters, the heaters do not draft excessively when cool.)
low-temperature exhaust could be particu- If a chimney top damper is already in place,
larly prone to backdrafting downward and and does not require modification in order to
fit a new liner, it can be retained. Make sure • Screened and capped in a way that pro-
you know how to operate the damper, and vides excellent flow for exhaust (no tiny
make a note in the heater manual or anoth- screens or undersized openings between
er obvious place. Rocket mass heaters should screen and cap).
always be run with any upper dampers 100%
open. It may be an even better idea to remove Alternative Air Supply
any chimney dampers or throat dampers Dedicated Outside Air
from a previous fireplace or woodstove. Outside air is dedicated combustion air from
The optimal masonry chimney for use outside, separate from household room air.
with a rocket mass heater is: Outside air was made mandatory in some
previous versions of the IRC building code,
• Indoors, or well-insulated between ex- in some local amendments to the masonry
haust liner and cold masonry walls. Ideally, heater codes (R1002), and may be legal-
the masonry can count as part of the heat ly required for certain over-sealed homes
storage for the heater, and can also help susceptible to negative pressure, such as
store ambient warmth within the home. manufactured homes. We generally don’t like
Indoor chimneys do this without much the idea (see discussion in Chapter 6), and
modification, if the home is kept warm current versions of the IRC have dropped
throughout the cold season. Too much the requirement due to complaints of safety
cold masonry, such as for underused heat- problems (it’s theoretically appealing, but it
ers or exposed exterior chimneys, can chill turns out buildings are complicated. It is not
the exhaust below acceptable tempera- always possible to safely install outside air
tures for successful draft. in all situations, nor does it reliably fix the
• The proper size for the heater (or a suit- problems it was intended to fix). If officials
able heater can be chosen for compatible force the issue, you might find a solution in
size with an existing chimney). the example we’ve included below.
• Accessible through a port or opening of One of the big problems with requir-
the proper size for the heater. ing outside air to feed the heater is that air
• Not currently in use by any other appli- cannot enter at the bottom of the firebox
ance, unless the appliance will be removed because that would break the thermosiphon
to build the heater. and allow smoke to rise up the fuel feed.
• Lined with tile or stainless steel liners, in And air cannot enter much above the level
good condition, with insulative backing. of the fuel feed, or from an upward direc-
Smooth, well-built masonry chimneys tion, because that could cause the outside air
may also be used, but should be inspected intake to likely act as a secondary chimney,
for good mortar seals. The old method of drawing the fire backward (a known prob-
plastering the inside of a chimney is not lem with outside air in all types of stoves).
very practical for 6˝ or 8˝ flues, but could So the only way to do this is to get the air to
be considered for new masonry chimneys enter the firebox roughly at the same eleva-
or very large mass heaters. tion as air enters the normal feed opening.
The outside air should rise to this level from There are a lot of easy ways to supply
below, ideally from below the level of the make-up air safely, such as heat-recovery
burn tunnel floor. ventilators (a box of tubes in a windowsill),
a screened hole in the wall or crawl space, or
Exclusion of House Pressures
even just opening a window if there are too
True outside air requires separation from many appliances running exhaust fans at the
room air (otherwise, it’s basically just “make- same time.
up air” — which we vastly prefer [see below]). Make-up air can be delivered in any
Any door or box built around the fuel feed convenient location in the room, well away
to separate outside air from room air must: from fire and fire dangers. It can even be
• tolerate the intense radiant heat from delivered from above, though this does less
coals in the firebox to alleviate negative pressure problems. The
• be configured so that it can be opened greatest negative pressures in a building are
for loading when hot, and so that the re- at the bottom, so the lower an air inlet is,
sulting hot surface does not draft smoke the more consistently it is likely to draw air
upwards into room inward.
• align with the fuel feed for convenient The main trick with make-up air is
loading, and allow ash removal avoiding cold drafts. Heat exchangers to
• allow control of air by separating incom- preheat incoming fresh air are much easier
ing outside (or room) air from the firebox to manage than dedicated firebox air, with
at the usual location of the feed lid fewer risks and fewer practical constraints.
• allow viewing and tending the fire (glass Windowboxes, or separate, fresh-air chan-
or at least translucent mica). nels behind the heater are two workable
options.
Make-up Air We have also seen designs for pipes em-
Exterior Air for Room Ventilation bedded in walls, designed to preheat cool
Make-up air is fresh air delivered into the outdoor air as it rises up the wall before en-
room, to “make up” for air being removed tering the room.
by appliances and house ventilation. (Air for
this purpose can also be provided as part of Air Requirements for the House Itself
a balanced ventilation system for the house Any home experiencing negative pressure
as a whole, eliminating negative pressure problems should be checked for general
problems at the larger scale; when the home healthy air flow. Over-sealed homes often
has balanced ventilation, it may no longer develop negative pressure, as well as poor
need “make-up air” because the problem is indoor air quality, which can be alleviated
already solved.) by a good fresh air supply. The minimum
In general, make-up air is much easier to healthy ventilation recommendation from
work with than dedicated combustion air, one Seattle energy audit provider was one
and a better long-term solution for efficient, third of the home’s volume exchanged per
safe heating and general indoor air quality. hour.
Outside Air Prototype:

(Multiexperiment prototype with 8” flues and firebox, • Air control: Bricks at feed opening give normal range
pebblestyle mass, cobbish firebox core.) of control while running on either outside air or
room air. Outside air can be blocked, if needed, by
Construction Notes: covering the duct where it opens into the cowling.
• Air feed: 5”x10” rectangular duct, same CSA as 8” sys- • Safety: Sparks can pop or drop into the air feed,
tem flues (50 square inches). and weird wind pressures could drive flames and
• Air enters the building near floor level, from 2” to 12” smoke backwards into it. Outside air ducts must be
above floor. noncombustible. Protect nearby combustibles from
• Cowling or “bubble”: Constructed of brick with clay the potential heat (with air gaps or noncombustible
sand mortar: Interior about 11” by 21” by 9” tall. Wide insulation).
enough for air control firebricks to slide completely • Results: Worked as intended, even provided some
out of the way for fire handling. Large size also re- extra draft (maybe due to colder air falling down the
duces radiant heat exposure (a tall, hot, narrow feed feed helping the thermosiphon). However, the metal
draws smoke upward). got very cold. The owner says “The rocket mass heat-
• Cover: A piece of reclaimed stove door glass with er uses hardly any wood ... and hardly any air. But
woven fiberglass gasket. when the rocket mass heater is running, the air in
the room is fresher.”
• Current status: Decommissioned; the wall inlet was
blocked and insulated. A
Photos courtesy Paul Wheaton, originally

shared on www.permies.com
Top view:
Air comes from outside at lower right, rises to the
brick cowling or “bubble” around the feed, then pours
toward the fire. When the air and cowling are cold, any
smoke puffs to sink back into firebox. Our brick sides
are deliberately big, out of the main radiant heat from
the fire. A hot cowling or too tall feed opening can
draw smoke upwards from the fire. Since the glass lid
must be opened to feed the fire, any smoke collecting
under the lid could be a problem. The owner learned
to crack the lid and check for smoke before opening
it fully.
Example Solution: Wheaton Labs above. We have heard of a few other ex-
Office Heater Experiment amples (not shown) where outside air was
Here we show one example where outside successfully installed by ducting it directly
air was added to a rocket mass heater proto- into the metal feed cowling shown in Evans/
type, while avoiding many of the problems Jackson book Rocket Mass Heaters.
Alternative Thermal Mass for example if the water coil gets blocked
The heaters described in this Builder’s Guide or emptied). It can also flash the water to
all share an all-masonry thermal mass. steam, causing risk of explosion even in
We often receive questions about alterna- non-pressurized systems (such as open
tives, specifically, water or radiant fluids as thermosiphoning pipes), if the pipes reach
thermal mass (e.g., for aquaponics or as a sufficiently high temperatures. Wood heat is
substitute for a boiler), and “lighter” ther- variable and hard to control compared with
mal mass or removable mass (gravel, dirt, refined fuels or even sunlight.
sand, etc., usually encased in a wooden box Life and health safety: Hot water stor-
for “temporary” or “portable” installations). age involves a choice between scalding
hazards and breeding pathogenic microbes
Water As Thermal Mass in lukewarm stagnant water.
Water has excellent heat capacity, but it Water as universal solvent: Minerals,
has other characteristics that make its per- salts, and life-forms will move along with
formance very different from masonry heat the water, and deposit as gunk in the sys-
storage, and potentially more dangerous. tem. This is even more true in open systems,
This is not a complete guide to the issues which use openings to reduce the risk of
or safe design protocols — just a general overpressure and explosions. Damp es-
primer that may be useful when evaluating caping from water heaters can accelerate
other people’s designs or when assessing the corrosion and rot of other nearby materials,
risks and success chances of developing such such as structural supports, metal parts, wall
a design. surfaces, textiles, etc.
Explosions: Water boils at 212°F, ex- Flooding: Leaks or safety venting can
panding about 1700 times in volume to cause flooding and damage. All tanks fail
become steam. If this steam expansion is eventually, unless they are retired first. Auto-
trapped in any container, pressurized coil, filling tanks with a major leak can release a
or clogged pipe, the result can be explosive. far larger volume of water than the tank it-
Any closed or pressurized water-heating sys- self can hold.
tem must be well designed to minimize the Freezing: Any plumbing system in-
risk of explosion, and even well-designed cludes the risk of damage when water freezes
systems can fail with lethal consequences. (usually 32°F/0°C, but varies with altitude
Training and experience are recommended. and salinity). Even if the pipes don’t burst,
Incompatible safe temperatures for re-heating a frozen system carries increased
fire and water: Water boils at 212°F, and risk of overheating at other points, as water
clean fire burns between 1000 and 2000°F will not flow until all areas are thawed.
(roughly 500 to 1200°C). This means that Other fluids: Some systems use other
an exposed water jacket or coil cools any fluids, such as steam, propylene glycol, oils,
flames it touches below clean burn tem- or antifreeze to improve performance or
peratures, causing creosote deposition (and limit certain problems. Each fluid has its
risk of future extremely high-temp fires, own properties and risks.
Heat capacity and load patterns: Heat Zaytuna Farm Water Heater
ing water takes a lot of energy. Hot water Geoff Lawton explains the basic design
is used in batches, year-round (contrasted in this video: http://permaculturenews.
with home heating, which is seasonal and org/2013/05/20/how-to-build-a-rocket-
steady in most climates). It may be better stove-mass-water-heater/.
to have a dedicated hot water heater, and Installer Tim Barker shows the construc-
a dedicated household heater, than to try tion process and answers technical questions
to get both functions out of the same fuel in this article: http://permaculturenews.
load while adjusting for seasonal and daily org/2012/11/23/rocket-stove-hot-water/.
changes in demand. A lovely system at Zaytuna Farm in New
Zealand uses a large water tank inside an in-
Successful Water-heater Examples sulated steel cavity to collect heat from the
Erica’s personal wood-fired water-heat- rocket flames and exhaust. The large water
ing is very simple: a tea kettle or an open tank is plumbed with steam outlet, inlet
stockpot with tap that can be drained and valve, and a secondary coil that carries do-
removed for cleaning and inspection. These mestic water through the tank. The potable
can be operated safely by most people with water circulates briefly through the coil,
minimal risk, though they don’t necessarily at gravity-fed pressure of 15–30 lbs. The
deliver the amounts of hot water needed for direct-heated tank can safely boil if over-
large-volume heating or bathing. heated because steam escapes through the
Zaytuna Water Heater: Original

diagram by Tim Barker shared on www.
PermacultureNews.org, adapted with
Tim’s permission by Erica Wisner.
large steam outlet which is always open. The “Portable” Mass Heaters
pressurized, potable water is never exposed This example was almost included in
to flame or to risk of boiling (unless the tank Chapter 3, due to its initial success, but the
completely empties). The system becomes owner only operated it occasionally for a
less efficient when the water level drops, so season or two before changing homes. We
even novice operators are likely to notice the therefore do not have reliable data about
difference if they forget the weekly top-up. performance, and slow heat damage would
A similar system Tim built at a different site not yet be apparent.
uses a float valve to maintain its proper level
without human intervention. Students have Ely 8˝: “Portable” Box-and-fill Heater
run the Zaytuna system with notable suc-
cess for several years.
Tim Barker is working on a booklet that The A-frame cabin is essentially a wood-
covers this water heater and other useful framed tent on stilts, in a gorgeous
rocket projects. Minnesota birch forest. The floor was never
Ernie has been involved with the con- designed with masonry in mind, nor the
struction or design of several water-heating whole for long-term heating. The roof/walls
prototypes, including designs with a heating were not yet insulated, for example, which
coil that circulates water instead of a directly is normally a high priority for any heated
heated tank. Some systems use thermosiphon- space.
ing (gravity- and heat-induced flow) to allow
the system to work without reliable electrical Design Considerations
power. Successful design and maintenance of The owner wanted to gradually improve the
such systems requires some experience and cabin into a four-season retreat. This proj-
fine-tuning. Other experimenters prefer ac- ect replaced the gable-end woodstove with a
tive pumps and monitors to manage flow, heater that holds warmth overnight. Because
pressure, safety factors, and performance. a weekend cabin sees a lot more cold starts
All piped hot water systems should be than warm ones, we recommended includ-
considered as potentially pressurized — and ing a bypass to preheat the chimney for
dangerous. Design, construction, and main- easier starting.
tenance should involve someone experienced Rather than cut into the floor joists and
in hot water systems, boilers, steam fitting, build a masonry footing, the owner shored
or other high-temperature plumbing fields. up the floor with extra timber and piers,
Many solar hot water systems and other and built a lower-mass, gravel-filled box for
relevant resources are discussed here: www. the heater. As with many small cabins, the
builditsolar.com, and steam and radiant bench needed to tuck around existing walk-
boiler systems in general are discussed by ways and windows, and serve as built-in
knowledgeable people on the forums at furniture. The owner was very happy with
www.heaterhelp.com, and by creative ama- the resulting L-shaped bench, wide enough
teurs and farmers at www.permies.com. to double as a warm cot for guests.
Ely 8” Heater: photos

courtesy of project owner.
Site Details
Project dates: 2012
Location: Northern Minnesota
Building size: 800 sf
Chimney height: 20 ft
Foundations: Timber on piers (8˝ x 8˝ posts, 4 feet on
center, with diagonal bracing)
ELY 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Other Portable Heaters • Dirt seems to give better performance

Paul Wheaton is probably the best-known than gravel, especially dirt that’s moist-
proponent and developer of “portable” rock- ened and tamped in during filling. Gravel
et mass heaters, a variety of demonstration or does better than sand or large rock chunks.
temporary-use system that is specifically tai- Pea gravel or ¼˝-minus road grade, with
lored for eventual removal and reconstruction any large rocks you happen to have lying
elsewhere. Several successful experiments around, also seem to work reasonably
have been done by Paul and others, ducting well.
the exhaust from a rocket combustion unit • Mass is still heavy. Strap or brace any box
through a wooden box full of sand, gravel, walls to withstand lateral (outward) force,
or other mineral mass. (See ongoing up- and reinforce floor to handle expected
dates at http://www.permies.com/t/2558/ weights of both mass and people enjoying
rocket-stoves/portable-rocket-mass-heater.) its warmth.
Useful tips for this type of mass heater • People are monkeys. Cats and dogs are
include: people too. Uncovered loose mass is liable
to get played with, used as a litterbox, etc.
• THEY ARE DANGEROUS: Incorpora
Our primary concerns with portable mass
ting wood around or under a heater takes
heaters are:
us well outside accepted best practice. We
have had prototypes catch fire and cause • Flammability and fire hazards: The
incandescent concrete spalling (popping common use of wood or other combusti-
red-hot rock chips out of a damp pad); ble materials in the framing for the mass
we’ve also discovered undetected charring containers means that surface tempera-
on heaters when they were deconstructed. tures must be carefully monitored. These
These designs are not fully developed, and heaters don’t qualify as masonry heaters
therefore not safe. While several have been under any code, nor are they likely to. Our
built and used with some success, the pa- favorite version of this approach is proba-
rameters for safe design and long-term use bly a masonry box such as brick or CMU
are not well understood. (concrete masonry units, e.g., 4˝ cinder-
• Combustion unit must be designed for blocks or pavers), which has the benefits
safe clearances from any woodwork, and/ of portability without the drawbacks of
or for a robust connection with the mass combustibility.
if the combustion unit is built separately. • Exhaust leaks: Loose mass circulates room
We prefer at least 4˝ of mass around the air. Most “portable” heaters are made with
heat-exchange ducting, and substantially a single layer of stovepipe (some owners
more (with multiple layers of refractory upgrade to seamless or welded stainless
insulation, and no aligned seams) in the pipe). Any pinhole leaks, damage, or
combustion area. We have had some good disconnected pipes could easily dump
results using metal “bulkheads” to bridge exhaust fumes into the room air without
too-hot areas of wooden box heaters. much chance of detection. Combustion
exhaust is never safe nor is it desirable Box-and-fill construction can also be

to breathe. Even if the heater typically done with noncombustible boxes (masonry
maintains a visually clean fire, there may board, brick, cinderblock, stone slabs in a
be traces of smoke or CO that can poison steel frame, etc.), in which case the project
occupants. Strategies tried so far include can be much closer to masonry-heater per-
using welded pipe, sealing joints with formance and safety practices. Benefits and
high-heat tape or silicone, careful building appropriate situations where a box-and-fill
and support, and use of CO monitors and heater might be useful:
smoke detectors to warn of leaks before
disorientation due to CO poisoning can • Alternative aesthetic appeal: Different
set in. from curvy cob or traditional masonry.
• Efficiency: Most loose-mass heaters do Portable heater demonstrations have got-
not store heat as effectively as solid mass ten many people to consider mass heating,
heaters. In one collaborative comparison, and even to appreciate the benefits of a
a pea-gravel-and-rock heater lost about 20 more permanent masonry heater, despite
degrees F overnight, while a similar sized, initial lack of interest in the larger mason-
solid, rock-and-earthen-mortar heater lost ry systems.
10 degrees F or less overnight. In areas not • Demonstration projects and proto-
used overnight, converting more heat to types: Great for proof of concept at events,
warm air during firing may be an accept- for class groups, and perhaps for skeptical
able tradeoff. authorities (it might just convince them
• Weight: If the goal is to reduce the overall you’re really crazy). For prototyping,
weight, using less-conductive mass (like loose-fill mass heaters can only offer a first
gravel with air pockets) means the mass approximation of the performance of a
does not absorb as much heat, and more solid mass heater. But it’s a better approxi-
mass may be required in order to achieve mation than working strictly from theory.
the same heating potential. • Resource, skill, and time limits: If suit-
able earthen building soils are not available,
A smaller, dense mass (such as a soap- a box-and-fill method can allow heating
stone heater) might give better performance using any mineral soil. We prefer a ma-
for weight than a large, loose mass. Kiko sonry box for safety (brick or concrete or
Denzer’s Masonry Heater Hat over a small cement-board). Box construction takes
woodstove is one example (handprintpress. time, and overall the process is not nec-
com); a small mass at higher temperature essarily faster for a skilled builder. But it
can store as much heat as a larger mass at might allow a good welder or cabinetmaker
lower temperature, though it also loses to stick with familiar skills. Filling the box,
heat faster. There has been some discussion once built, takes far less time than site-built
of building heaters with removable mass, masonry.
such as insetting a small tank or pot(s) of • Damp conditions: We recommend ma-
water that can be drained for transport. sonry box-and-fill systems for raised
greenhouse beds, where a cob or earthen Work is ongoing to develop a “shippable

masonry structure would be subject to con- core,” a combustion unit that could be in-
stant damp, and where being able to move stalled in one or a few pieces, to facilitate
the heater or adjust heights and depths very fast installation of either portable or
could be a big asset to crop production. standard mass heaters. It turns out this is a
• Tenuous tenure and transport: If the fill very hard set of functions to combine, espe-
is not transported, a box-and-fill system cially while keeping it affordable.
might allow nomadic folks to transport
their heater in a camper, manufactured Alternative Fuels
home, etc. New local fill could be added Pellet Fuels
at each location, avoiding the cost of Rob Torcellini of Bigelow Brooks Farm
transporting the heavy mass. posted a report on his successful pellet-hop-
per prototype for burning wood pellets in a
rocket mass heater.
There’s discussion and further develop-
ments on the forums at www.Permies.com:
http://www.permies.com/t/18515/stoves/
Burning-Pellets-Rocket-Mass-Heater#163
683.
A video, “Burning Pellets in a Rocket Mass
Heater,” posted by web4deb, is here: http://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=lx_9cvd5s
Q0.
The following project summary is com-
piled from Rob’s video and online remarks
as of 10/26/2012:
I had already built a standard rock-

et mass heater to take firewood, and
used it for about a year to heat my
greenhouse and aquaponics. (There’s
a video of that one on YouTube, too.)
I wanted to try burning pellets in-
Pellet hopper: stead of firewood. Some pellet stoves
photos and use an auger that’s driven by electric-
description courtesy ity, but I wanted to try just a gravity
of Rob Torcellini, feed first.
originally shared on I pulled some of the brick away
www.permies.com from the front of the wood feed to
and YouTube. make room.
I welded up a grill tight enough to It’s burning around 8 lbs of pel-

hold the pellets up above the ash, and lets per hour, which is approximately
started prototyping hoppers made of 64,000 BTU’s per hour. It gets a lot
angled steel tubing. The first version hotter than it did when I was burn-
was not giving me enough heat — ing wood. The barrel used to max out
there wasn’t that rockety sound. The around 500 degrees F up near the
opening was too small, and the pel- top, and now it’s 500 F halfway down
lets were not spreading out across the and about 300 F at the base.
grate. And with the vertical hopper
Update from Rob on 11/28/2012:
orientation, it got way too hot and
the fire started burning back up the The pellet feeder is working awesome!
hopper. Yesterday I did my first long-term
My next version is made from a burn in it (over 2 hours). I burned
wider C-channel that spreads the pel- 80 pounds of pellets in 13 hours. I’m
lets better. Across the opening, I added not sure if you’re familiar with the
a sliding gate to control the feed rate. I greenhouse setup, but I’m heating
also made an air restrictor so that air is the greenhouse with an aquaponic
forced across the pellets, and another system in it. I have about 1200 sq
air gap under the ash pit that draws air feet of greenhouse building and it
up through the grate. The rockety ef- has around 2000 gallons of water. I
fect is way better; the air speed forces burned yesterday since it was snow-
better mixing and a hotter burn. ing and I had basically no solar gain.
The pellets usually feed in in I was able to maintain the building
clumps, so if you look through the air temperature at 60 degrees (30 out-
gap it seems like they’re smoldering a side), and heated the water from 55
bit. But that’s the initial gasification; to 63. (My fish were much happier in
that smoke gets burned further along the warmer water.)
in the burn tunnel (and heat riser). The only problem that I’ve had is
The steel grate may burn out in the that some of the pellets don’t burn
intense heat, so I may eventually need completely and they start to accumu-
to try stainless. The steel heat riser is late on the grate and don’t fall through
completely burning out [shows flakes into the ash pan so it starts to clog it
of rusty steel fragments]; I used a gal- up a bit. I think there’s some foreign
vanized pipe and it didn’t last long. For matter in these pellets (rock, metal?).
now, I’m hoping the mineral wool is This started to prevent the ash from
holding itself in place without the falling through and would slow down
steel liner, cause the steel is definitely the burn a bit. About 8 hours into
gone. ... When I dismantle the system, the burn, I quickly scraped the grate
I’ll do an alien autopsy video on it. a bit to clean it off. Considering the
Then I’ll assess how to repair/replace it. amount of maintenance I had to do
during the burn, I would call it a though it didn’t work that well — it was a
success! That was about $8.50 in pel- safer experiment to start with, and then he
lets from Home Depot. For me, the worked from what he learned before going
time (and my back) I saved buy not to the taller version he uses now.
splitting is well worth it! Next up, re- You’ll note he’s got plenty of space
searching hammer/pellet mills! around it even now that it’s working well.
This beast is an inferno when it’s And it turns out that was a good idea — as
running. I was expecting it when I of 2015, there’s a further update reporting
originally built it, but the steel grate that the pellet hopper gummed up with
is about 50% of the original thickness wood resins and the whole hopper load
so I’ll probably make a new one out of caught on fire, making a seriously terrify-
stainless. It will last longer, but even ing reverse rocket stove. Rumor has it Rob
302 stainless isn’t rated much more is considering batch-fed options rather than
than 1500–1700 degrees before it continuous feed for his next experiment.
starts to flake. It’s also sort of strange We extend our thanks to Rob for sharing
to see some of the clay bricks glow. his story. If you want to support Rob’s work
or see more of his projects, you might wan-
Rob did a great job explaining not just der over to www.BigelowBrook.com/donate.
what’s working, but how he problem-solved
the initial designs until he got there. He gets Coal and Petroleum Fuels
a lot of well-deserved compliments on his At least three coal-burning rocket mass
work. heaters have been successfully built at the
As Rob notes, there are a couple of prob- time of this writing; we have two reports
lems with using metal around these high of successful examples in Mongolia. (We
temperatures. The temperatures in there are interested in diesel or trash burners, but
can get up around 2400°F just with wood, don’t have a good prototype to share yet.)
and with his pellets heating the barrel about To burn coal and other fossil fuels safely,
25% hotter, I’d guess the heat riser is hotter there are several considerations:
too. I’d definitely go for refractory materials
like brick or even clay in preference to metal • Air supply: Petroleum fuels are very rich,
right in contact with insulation batt. and they require proportionately more air
The greenhouse is a great setting for this to burn successfully. They will also main-
kind of experimentation: big heat loads, yet tain a fire with excess air more readily than
forgiving if you have to stop for a few days wood, due to their greater heat produc-
and rethink. It also has huge vents in case tion. Make air feeds larger and provide
you make smoke. A backfire up the hop- controls to adjust the air as needed. (One
per could be tragic in a home, and not real of the Mongolian experiments combined
pleasant even in the greenhouse. this larger air feed with a wok-stand over
I liked that Rob’s first hopper design was the air intake for high-heat cooking ...
the same height as the burn tunnel, even fascinating!)
• Fuel density: Pound for pound, coal has Other Fuels

about twice the fuel value as wood. This Other “special” fuels that are mostly cellu-
means less weight to haul and less dry lose can be burned about the same as wood,
storage needed. Coal may be a locally ac- if you can work out a tolerable feeding
cessible fuel in areas where deforestation is schedule and spark-safe storage. These in-
a major problem and wood fuels are scarce. clude straw, sawdust, dung, plain cardboard,
• Heat of combustion: Coal burns hotter shrubs, dung briquettes (from horses, goats,
than wood, especially when compared sheep, cattle, buffalo, yaks, donkeys, camels,
with common, slightly damp fuel wood. grazing elephants — but not omnivores like
Interior liners should definitely be firebrick pigs, dogs, or people, nor carnivores).
or similar high-temperature refractory ma- Dried bundles of invasive weeds, orchard
terials (rated for 2400°F or better; 2800°F prunings, and coppiced wood are also ex-
would be reassuring). tremely efficient low-cost or free fuels—that
• Fuel feed: Coal comes in lumps rather have additional benefit of improving the
than sticks, so it doesn’t self-feed the same local environment.
way under gravity, and the air will not be NEVER BURN WET FUEL. Keep all
forced between the fuel chunks as with fuels stored as dry as possible. (See Chapter
wood. A grate that raises the coals an inch 5 for details.)
or so off the bottom of the firebox floor
may be useful. A horizontal feed opening Extreme Sizes
(like a fireplace or woodstove) instead of Peter van den Berg’s 8˝ Batch Box
the downfeed J-tube may be worth con- Beastie, AKA “The Thing”
sidering, as the J-tube’s advantages are
Can I make a bigger rocket mass
more relevant with stick-shaped fuels.
heater for my large space?
• Sustained flame: It can be more difficult
to light a coal fire for those unaccustomed;
some people start with a wood fire then
add coal once it’s hot.
• Chemical pollution: Some kinds of coal Heating
contain high amounts of sulfur and other barrels
contaminants that will generate corro- Heat riser
sive sulfuric acid to damage your stack Port
and your neighborhood. Coal may also Air supply 2
produce carbon monoxide with less de-
tectable scent than wood smoke; do not
let clear exhaust deceive you into trusting
Door Fuel bed
it.
To bench
Unfortunately we don’t yet have pictures & chimney Air supply 1
of the coal-fired rockets.
Can I make a big firebox that loads

from the side like my woodstove?
Peter van den Berg from the Netherlands

has an answer. His batch box builds on the
big fireboxes designed by Lasse Holmes of
Homer, Alaska, and optimizes for very clean
combustion. These designs combine the in-
sulated, clean-burning chimney of a rocket
mass heater with a larger firebox. By passing
the gases from the big box through a narrow
gap, or “port,” Peter’s design induces a dou-
ble vortex which he calls the “double ram’s
horns,” whipping the air and fuel gases for
Batch Box: an amazingly clean burn.
Diagrams and This design requires precise proportions,
tables courtesy of and some extra elements such as a secondary
Peter van den Berg, air feed (the L-shaped metal tube near the
originally shared center of the box, visible just below the disc
at donkey32. Peter is placing in the photo).
proboards.net and These features are essential for a clean
www.permies.com burn, and thus for efficient combustion and
to avoid loading downstream heat-capture Mosquito Heater

channels with creosote. We went the other direction, and made
Peter estimates this heater’s working an absurdly tiny batch box at the 2015
mass by the internal surface area the exhaust Innovators’ Gathering. The firebox and heat
will heat: 9 or 10 square meters for this riser are carved out of the insides of two
8˝ size. In the demonstration, he achieved pairs of insulating firebricks, with a diame-
this with three barrels and a 30-ft straight ter of just 2 inches. Not surprisingly, it runs
bench. We don’t know if it requires a larg- fitfully and tends to smoke. Fire is more sta-
er gap above the heat riser (it had about a ble at larger scales, especially with variable
meter of gap in Peter’s prototype layout), or natural fuels like wood.
how it would operate with a very long or Insulation doesn’t seem to scale, either:
convoluted bench. A spreadsheet calculator if an 8˝ firebox needs 1˝ of heat riser insu-
for the dimensions is available at: http:// lation, a 2˝ firebox will also need a full 1˝
donkey32.proboards.com/thread/734/ of insulation, or even a little extra, if you
peterberg-batch-box-dimensions want the inside and outside temperatures to
We do know from Peter’s work that a verti- be the same.
cal chimney is essential for these designs. The The smallest practical fireboxes for mass
whole system must operate under-pressure, heaters seem to run about a 4˝ exhaust stack,
provided by the exit chimney’s draft. and they are still very fiddly to light and oper-
Many thanks to Peter van den Berg for ate cleanly. Fireboxes smaller than 5˝ generally
contributing these images, and for posting do not have enough extra heat to run exhaust
the complete report at www.permies.com. through channels in a mass storage bench.
Folks do report success setting up 4˝ places to find discussion about ongoing de-
fireboxes as stand-alone cookstoves or on-de- velopments, especially while the tiny-house
mand radiant heaters, or with a masonry bell craze is still going strong. There are several
or barrel full of bricks directly around the Facebook groups dedicated to rocket stoves
firebox instead of a channels-through-mass and rocket mass heaters.
design.
The online forums at donkey32.pro
boards.com and www.permies.com are great
A 2” batch-box style heater - burns dirty, but surprisingly, it creates the same
vortex patterns as its larger cousins.
Appendix 4:
Home Heating Design Considerations
Heating Load Calculations the one at energystar.gov for insulation rec-
W e often get asked if a rocket mass

heater will heat so many square
feet. Turns out climate, house design, and
ommendations. If your climate is twice as
cold, you either need twice the insulation
and heat-recovery ventilation, or you need a
personal habits matter more than the floor house about half as big.
footprint of the house. But it’s not hard to We profiled several projects in Chapter
get an estimated heat load from your old 3. The Mediterranean and Bonny projects
heating bills and/or a tape measure. are from California, where redwood valleys
Please Note: If you do not enjoy math, you or ponderosa mountainsides are considered
do NOT have to calculate your home’s heat chilly. The Daybed and Annex projects
loss. These equations are no more accurate were done in rainy Portland, Oregon,
for everyday households than just reading where winters are grey and clammy, but
your old heating bills, or guessing based 2 inches is considered a lot of snow. The
on neighbors’ wood piles. If you don’t love Cabin 8˝ and the Ely 8˝ and Wheaton Labs
math, you may just want to skip down to projects in Appendix 3 were done in cold-
the practical tips for adjusting the results er climates along the US/Canadian border,
that are discussed further down in “Limiting where people put on studded tires and
Heat Loss.” know the snowplow guy’s name and num-
ber. An 8˝ heater very similar to all of the
Utility Bills and Anecdotal above (not shown) was used successfully
Heating Comparisons for some years in Antarctica, where spe-
To compare one home to another, with cial mechanics are kept on staff to repair
no math, start by noticing your respective the snow-cats when the wind whips their
climates. You can use heating degree days doors off. So really, you can be comfortable
(below), or a general heating map such as with about the same amount of stove in any
225
climate, as long as your home is modest and your current heating system — because we
weather-appropriate. don’t know how you currently heat, and we
You could estimate your heating load don’t know how well you’ll design, place,
numerically, if you want to, simply by look- and operate your mass heater. On average,
ing at last winter’s heating bills. If you use when replacing an old woodstove with a
more than one kind of heat (for example a rocket mass heater, a lot of owners report
gas furnace plus electric space heaters), you they now use about one quarter the fuel
can convert and add them up, or keep them wood. Normal results range from half to
separate. It may be useful to distinguish one tenth the fuel wood. Many owners also
between your ordinary heating needs and report greater comfort.
optional hobby or spare room heaters. It’s not always easy to predict how a mass
BTUs (British thermal units, the amount heater will compare with forced-air furnac-
of heat required to raise 1 pound of water es or conventional utilities. A mass storage
by 1 degree Fahrenheit), “therms” (about heater can significantly reduce the utility
100,000 BTU), or watts (or kilowatt hours, bills, even if it is not run very often, simply
kWh) will be listed on most grid-powered because mass has so much more heat storage
delivery bills. For fuels purchased by the gal- capacity than the air commonly used by fur-
lon, pound, cubic foot, liter, or cubic meter naces and fan-type space heaters. And the
(oil, coal, propane) the BTU content per warm mass doesn’t float out of your house
unit can be found online, for example at: every three hours and require completely
http://www.exothink.com/Pages/btu.html. re-heating its replacement.
If you need to convert back and forth,
for example to add up electric and natural Calculating Heat Loss
gas heat from different heating bills: One Heat loads are more often calculated for
BTU is about 1055 joules; a million BTUs large public and commercial buildings
is 1 mBTU or 1.055 megajoules. One that use forced-air heating. These equa-
therm is about 100,000 BTU. An mBTU tions may not be accurate for thermal
is about 293 kilowatt hours; a megajoule is mass heating, nor for single-family homes
about 278 kWh. unless you know your home’s construction
One pound of wood can deliver 6200 to detailing and weather forecasts with rare
8700 BTU when burned (if it’s reasonably accuracy.
dry, and depending on how much of that If you like math, and equations help you
heat escapes in smoke/hot exhaust; from see the relative importance of things, doing
http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/ the calculations may inspire you to new
howoodbtu.htm. Our wood consumption heights of energy efficiency.
with a rocket mass heater appears pretty If you just want to run the numbers, go
close to the theoretical maximum BTU de- find an online calculator, such as the ones in
livery for wood. the reference pages at www.builditsolar.org
It’s hard to predict how much more ef- which conveniently break down the heat
ficient a thermal mass heater will be than loss by sections.
Appendix 4: Home Heating Design Considerations 227
If you want to work it out by hand, with- just look at the average from your coldest
out the Internet, you are welcome to follow month(s), or your average winter low.
along with my first attempts: We usually predict the heat output based
on a 4- to 6-hour evening fire; if you’re stuck
[(Area1/R-value1) + (Area2/R-value2)
at home in a winter storm, you could run the
...] × (indoor temp. – outdoor temp.) ×
heater for 10 hours a day and easily double
time= Heat loss (BTU or J)
your heat output. (Unlike automated heat-
The resulting units will be BTU if you ers, this one won’t fire up if you’re not home.
use imperial R-values, hours, and Fahrenheit But if someone is home all day, you can run
degrees. If you use metric (including met- it as long as you like.) In eight years of heat-
ric R-values, not given in our tables) and ing with two different rocket mass heaters,
seconds for time, I believe you will get the we have only once felt the need to sleep on
result in joules. If you don’t include the time the mass in an extreme cold snap — 20°F
factor, you have an approximation of instan- below our typical winter low. With a day
taneous heat loss at that temperature. or two of extra-long firings, we were back
If you want the heater to power through in the bedroom before the end of that cold
the worst cold snaps, use the lowest tempera- snap.
ture you expect to see in your climate. But
if you are willing to snuggle up to the heat- Metric/SI Calculations
er in a cold snap, or tolerate a dip down to For metric users, the equation is the same,
60 degrees instead of 70, you can probably but the units are different.
Heating Degree Days

To calculate your annual fuel budget, look up the total Virginia about 3000–5000 HDD per year, and cold areas
heating degree days (HDD). Heating degree days are like the Rockies and the inland Canadian border range
the difference between average indoor temperature from 6000 to over 8000 HDD per year. Altitude alone
(usually 65°F/18°C), and the average outdoor tem- can create differences of more than 3000 HDD per year
perature. (When outside temperature is hotter than in a given region.
indoors, those times count toward the cooling degree Find HDD and CDD by state and zip code within the
days, or CDD.) If your average outdoor temperature all USA at the HUD user portal: http://www.huduser.org/
year round was 55°F (like a cave), and you heated your portal/resources/UtilityModel/hdd.html
home to 65 at the walls, you’d see about 3650 HDD. A search on “HDD + [Country]” will turn up other re-
If your winter averaged 55 and your summer 70, you sources, like these metric HDD data for Europe: http://
might see 1800 HDD and 900 CDD. appsso.eurostat.ec.europa.eu/nui/show.do?dataset=
Florida and California experience something like nrg_esdgr_a.
2000–4000 HDD per year, coastal areas in Oregon and
Find the surface areas in square me- Assigning Insulation (R) Values
ters, use the scientific-unit R-value or RSI, Find the approximate area and R-value of
temperature in C (the degrees difference each of the following surfaces:
is exactly the same as in Kelvin, or K, the • Area 1 (walls)
absolute temperature). The result will be in • Area 2 (windows)
watts (energy per time) if you don’t include • Area 3 (doors)
the time. For joules (just energy), multiply • Area 4 (ceiling/roof area)
watts by the time in seconds. • Area 5 (floors over a crawl space)
[(Area1/R-value1) + (Area2/R-value2) • Area 6 (slab floors and basement walls)
...] × (indoor temp. – outdoor temp.) = To make your calculations, you’ll need to
Heat loss (BTU/hr or W) assign R-values to materials already in place.
Below, we give estimates for the insulation
R-value to RSI conversion:
value for common applications. (The table
The conversion between US/Imperial
gives Imperial/BTU-compatible R-values; if
units of R-value and metric units is:
you can’t find a metric R-value table, you
1 hr·ft2·°F/BTU = 0.176110 K·m2/W, can convert between US/Imperial and SI/
or 1 K·m2/W = 5.678263 hr·ft2·°F/ metric units of R-value.)
BTU. R-value estimates — Walls:
Areas and R-values are the area of a • R5 (board and batten, non-insulated)
surface, such as the number of square feet • R20 for insulated 4˝ stud/5.5˝ thick walls
of window pane, divided by the insula- (fiberglass or rock wool batting, drywall,
tion R-value for that surface (might be an sheathing)
R-value of 2 for bare windows, or 5 to 10 • R30 for insulated 6˝stud/7.5˝ thick walls
with insulating blinds and drapes). (as above)
Indoor temp — outdoor temp: Use • R36 to R50 for plastered straw-bale (18˝
degrees C or degrees K for metric (after to 20˝) walls
subtracting, you’ll end up with the same R-value estimates — Windows:
number). • about R2 for single-pane glass
In the US/Imperial equation, the units • R4 or R5 for double-pane
are hours, feet, degrees Fahrenheit, and • up to R10 for triple thermal windows
British thermal units (BTU) as discussed with insulating drapes
above.
Be aware, though, that solar gain can
The metric R-value equation shows de-
offset heat loss from sun-facing windows in
grees Kelvin, area in square meters, divided
many climates.
by energy in watts. (The two energy units
are slightly different: Watts are units of en- R-value estimates — Doors:
ergy per hour, where BTUs do not contain Common R-values for exterior doors may be:
any time factor so hours appear separately in R15 for an insulated-core, metal-skin
the US/Imperial equation.) door;
R2.2 for a solid wood door 1¾˝ thick. Example Calculation

(Note that windows on an exterior door Here are the calculations you would do for
are still windows; use the door numbers just an example house that is 36 feet long by 24
for solid areas of the door(s).) feet wide (or 860 square feet):
Door figures from www.archtoolbox.
Area calculations:
com/materials-systems/thermal-moisture-
protection/rvalues.html R30 Walls:
R-value estimates — Ceiling/Roof: (36 + 24 + 36 + 24 ft wall lengths) × 8
The engineering toolbox site suggests adding ft wall height minus (Window area) =
15% to ceiling/roof heat loss to account for (120 ft) × 8 ft − 71sf = 889 sf
radiant heat loss (the clear night sky is VERY R5 Windows (double-pane):
cold, compared with the earth’s surface or
nearby trees and buildings). Unheated attics (3 windows 6 ft × 3 ft) + (4 ft × 3 ft) +
may moderate this heat loss to some degree. (2 ft × 2.5 ft) = 71 square feet
• R5 for uninsulated joist and drywall ceiling R36+ Ceiling/roof:

• R30 for insulated 6˝ and R40 for insulat- 36 ft × 24 ft = 864 square feet
ed 8˝ joists (large, foil-backed fiberglass or
R10 Floor:
rock wool batts with the edges properly
tacked down to limit air movement) 36 ft × 24 ft = 864 square feet
• up to R50 for double-layered fiberglass
We are almost ready to run our heat-loss
batting or 24˝ of loose cellulose.
calculation, but we need the temperature
R-value estimates — Floors: difference (T) between the inside and out-
Ground temperatures are usually milder than side surfaces. This is affected by climate, of
winter air temperatures, so plan accordingly. course, but it can also be changed by adjust-
Doing a bit of home improvement being indoor temperature, or by buffer zones
fore starting on your heater can have a big (unheated rooms that reduce the tempera-
effect on your final project. Well-insulated ture of the exposed walls).
crawl spaces can effectively make the floor For a day that averaged 30°F, with the
an interior wall instead of exposed exteri- ground temperature a little warmer at 50°F,
or surface, thus significantly reducing your and we kept our home at 70°F indoors:
heating loads.
[(Area1/R-value1) + (Area2/R-value2)
• R5 to R10 insulation board is commonly ...] × (indoor temp. – outdoor temp.)
used for foundation or skirting insulation. × time = Heat loss
• R20 or R30 batting can be used between giving:
floor joists in suspended floors.
• For slabs, R1 to R2 for a 4˝ slab, or .1 to .5 [(Walls: 889 ft2/R30 (R units are 1
per inch. (Definitely use ground tempera- hr·ft2·°F/BTU) + Windows: 71 ft2/R5
ture when making your calculations.) + Ceiling: 864 ft2/R36) × (70°F−30°F =
40°F + [(Floor 864 ft2/R10 × (70–50 where

= 20°F)] × 1 hour = Heat loss
Hv = ventilation heat loss (W)
[(Walls: 30 BTU/hr °F + Windows: cp = specific heat capacity of air
14 BTU/hr °F + Ceiling: 24 BTU/ (J/kg/K)
hr °F) × (40°F)] + [Floor: 86 BTU/ ρ = density of air (kg/m3)
hr °F × 20 °F] × 1 hour = 4000 BTU qv = air volume flow (m3/s)
(for one hour), or (multiplied by 24 ti = inside air temperature (°C)
hours) 96,000 BTU/day to = outside air temperature (°C)
Is that typical for an 860-square-foot The heat loss due to ventilation with heat
house? It depends on your climate. recovery can be expressed as:
If the day averaged -10°F (with the Hv = (1 – β/100) cp ρ qv (ti – to)
ground temperature remaining the same),
the difference in temperature would be 80 where
degrees F instead of just 40: β = heat recovery efficiency (%)
[(Walls: 30 BTU/hr °F + Windows: 14 Modern heat recovery ventilation sys-
BTU/hr °F + Ceiling: 24 BTU/hr °F) × tems can achieve efficiencies of 50 to 80%.
(80°F)] + [Floor: 86 × 20°F] × 1 hour =
7160 BTU/hr, which would be 172000 Heat Loss by Infiltration
BTU/day (not quite double the previ- Infiltration includes air movement through
ous example) leaks or porous materials in the building
In practice, local building standards construction, opening and closing of win-
often include more insulation in colder cli- dows, gradual upward movement of warm
mates, and it’s easy to see why. air escaping through ceilings and attics, etc..
As a rule of thumb, the number of air shifts
Heat Loss by Ventilation is often set at 0.5 per hour. The value is hard
The heat loss equations in this section to predict and depend of several variables—
and those that follow can be found, with wind speed, difference between outside
nicer notation, on Engineeringtoolbox. and inside temperatures, the quality of the
com. Search their site for “Heat Loss from building construction, etc.
Buildings.” The heat loss caused by infiltration can
Heat loss by ventilation (fresh air deliv- be calculated as:
ery into buildings, mechanical or otherwise) Hi = cp ρ n V (ti−to)
and infiltration (expected natural movement
through wall cavities, roof vents, cracks, po- where
rous materials, etc.) are roughly similar. Hi = heat loss infiltration (W)
The heat loss due to ventilation without cp = specific heat capacity of air
heat recovery can be expressed as: (J/kg/K)
Hv = cp ρ qv (ti−to) ρ = density of air (kg/m3)
n = number of air shifts, how many ACH50/10 or even ACH50/5, which

times the air is replaced in the room per are both just different fudge factors
second (1/s) (0.5/hr = 1.4 ×10-4 1/s as a than those used to calculate ACHnat
rule of thumb) — it really depends on your climate
V = volume of room (m3) and whether you think ACHnat is a
ti = inside air temperature (°C) good estimate of infiltration at cold
to = outside air temperature (°C) temperatures or not.
Once you’ve determined an infiltra
Heat Loss by Air Exchange tion rate, the heat loss is calculated via
The next section appears on the website one of the following simple formulas:
www.sensiblehouse.com. We include it here,
Q=V*ACHn*.018*ΔT
not to discourage anyone with scary-looking
calculations, but to show how heat designers or
think about and use these equations. (See
website for more detail on modeling home Q=CFMn*1.08*ΔT
heat loss in general: www.sensiblehouse.org/ Where Q is the hourly infiltra-
nrg_heatloss.htm, viewed 5/27/2015.) tion heat loss, V is the volume of the
house, .018 is the heat capacity of air
Ideally we’d like a table or formula (whose units are BTU/ft3-°F), *ΔT is
that would allow us to know the value the difference in temperature, and
of ACH [air exchanges per hour] at ACHn and CFMn are the normalized
various temperatures so that we could blower door test values for whatever
get a more accurate total heat loss for conditions you want to assume — the
any outdoor temperature, but be- typical assumption being ACHnat,
cause wind speed is typically such an i.e., the adjusted value based on the
important component of ACH, it’s statistical model representing the
really impractical to do this; hence, “natural” ventilation rate. Note that
we use the estimates. the value 1.08 is just the heat capacity
The issue here is that we know that of air .018 times 60, since CFM is a
the infiltration rate is higher when it’s per minute rate and we’re looking for
cold and windy, so unless the typ- a per hour rate. [Author note: CFM is
ical weather conditions are that it’s cubic feet per minute.]
windier when the temperatures are Intuitively, this number represents
moderate than cold, ACHnat will the amount of heat contained in the
result in underestimating the heat air that leaks out, or more appropri-
loss due to infiltration. If you’re cal- ately the amount of heat required to
culating the worst case heat loss (for heat up the air that leaks in as a result
example, for equipment sizing) rath- of air leaking out. There is some evi-
er than using ACHnat in the heat dence that as air leaks out through an
loss formula, you might want to use insulated cavity, the cavity acts a bit
like an HRV (heat recovery ventila- common places to find air leaks. Attic hatch-
tor), but given that you don’t really es can represent relatively huge heat-loss
want air leaking through an insulat- holes, and can be improved with well-sealed
ed cavity, especially not at a slow rate and insulated hatch doors (or complete-
where condensation can happen, it’s ly sealed over, replaced with an outdoor
best not to assume this happens. access through the gable wall). Some own-
If you have mechanical ventila- ers re-sheathe the house (be careful to use
tion, the calculation is essentially the breathable materials that are compatible
same, but in this case the ventilation with the structural detailing of older houses;
rate is whatever the fan is rated for. vapor barriers should go on the warm side
If the ventilation is a HRV or ERV, of the wall). Check behind ceiling and floor
you need to adjust the temperature moldings for badly sealed gaps to fix.
difference by the efficiency of heat Sometimes we want to change the tem-
recovery; so, for example, if ΔT is perature of the house using outside air.
50 degrees and the efficiency is 70%, Cross-ventilation (opening windows on up-
then the effective temperature differ- wind and downwind sides of the house) is a
ence is only 30% of ΔT, or 15 degrees great way to move air through the building
in this case. when outdoor temperatures are more com-
fortable than indoors, cooling a hot house
Infiltration rates are going to vary with at night, or freshening up the rooms on a
wind speed, difference between indoor and summer morning before shutting things
outdoor temperatures, and how the house again for the day. Air movement may also
is built and detailed. We can’t control the contribute to evaporative cooling, or affect
wind speed, but we can buffer it with wind- condensation problems (warm moist air de-
breaks or unheated outdoor storage areas. posits water on cold surfaces, but cool air
We can control the indoor temperature, can remove moisture from a warm house).
but we don’t always want to. Remember, Moisture content of the air is not consid-
though, that you can lower the heat loss ered in the above equations, but it affects the
while still enjoying comfortable tempera- heat capacity of the air, how much heat is lost
tures by keeping the heat away from outside (or required to re-heat incoming cold, moist
walls. Barriers such as quilted hangings, air), and most importantly, moisture affects
storage closets and cabinets, or closed rooms condensation levels which may be a bigger
can keep you warmer yet allow less heat to problem in leaky walls than just wasted heat.
reach exterior walls, meaning less heat gets
lost to outside. Limiting Heat Loss
We can definitely improve on how most The most common (and cheapest) ways to
houses are built and detailed. Keeping the reduce heat loss are:
house in good repair helps a lot. Wall pene-
trations for electrical outlets, some types of • add insulation at the easiest or least-in-
lighting, doors, windows, and corners are sulated areas by adding lined drapes or
closed-cell blinds for the windows and live in each home. Old-world cultures that
another layer of insulation in the attic or have survived fuel shortages and famines
ceilings; create better seals around attic know better. Maintaining a large house can
hatches. bankrupt the owner. Old money tends to
• lower the average indoor temperature if find itself at home in small, elegant rooms
possible (for example by closing off unused and apartments, furnished with beautiful
rooms, creating cooler “zones” around the and durable materials, rather than bleeding
edges). away as monthly utility bills to heat a lot of
• add more insulation around the perimeter glass and plastic.
of slabs or crawl spaces, and against floors One of the fundamental insights of rock-
or ceilings. et mass heater is “heat people, not space.”
• check for cold air leaks (and possible When my wonderful big oak office desk
moisture condensation) around electrical keeps my feet away from the heat, I don’t
outlets, windows, and other wall penetra- have to heat up the whole house to get
tions. Walls are harder to insulate without warm. I can go sit on the rocket bench. If I
disrupting the household, but it’s worth really need to concentrate at my desk, I can
doing when possible. go make myself a little lump of heat, like a
The heating calculations above offer some cup of tea or a hot brick wrapped in a towel,
big clues to how we can reduce heat loss to and take it back to my desk. I can take these
the house as a whole. But they are based on little warm lumps anywhere: in the car, out
a typical American assumption: that we are into the woods, put one on my sore back
going to build a big stud-framed house and like a heating pad.
heat it by filling it with warm air. There are Cupboard-beds, four-poster beds with
a lot of other approaches to staying warm, top and side curtains, and even blanket forts
some of them radically more efficient. can be a way to create a personal warm zone
The next section gives some simple, sen- in a cooler house. Social radicals might even
sible suggestions — no math required. consider switching bedrooms, so that the
hottest one goes to the person who is always
Home Design for cold, rather than assigning them by size or
Heating Efficiency status.
Present-day American households devote So when we talk about heating our homes,
30% to 75% of their energy to heating and what are we really trying to achieve?
cooling. The first step to reducing those bills At the core of the house, there is food,
is not necessarily changing the furnace, but water, fire, and sleep.
making the house easy to heat. All of these can be accommodated in
Modern North American homes were a single room if necessary; or in a core of
largely designed during a 400-year surplus no more than three or four rooms (living,
of cheap fuel. On top of that, the average master bedroom, girls’ and boys’ bedrooms).
home in the US has doubled in size just in Kitchens generally heat themselves. Optional
the last 50 or 60 years, yet fewer people now “spare” rooms should be optional to heat. If
you spend less than 40 minutes per day in the mudrooms, storage racks. Most goods
bathroom, consider a separate on-demand keep better when dry and cool anyway.
heater such as a heat lamp or small radiant • Heat upward. Locate the heat low in the
wall-heater. occupied rooms, and use thermal mass
Elements to a more energy-efficient to store it. Radiant-heated floors or low
household: benches counteract air stratification (the
tendency for hot air to collect at the ceil-
• Scale down. Look at camper and live- ing). With a radiant floor, people report the
aboard boat designs for inspiration. Now same comfort in a house up to 10 degrees
take a look at your house — can you cooler, a massive reduction of heating
condense the daily activities into a small- load. Look up k’ang, ondol, hypocaust,
er heating and cooling footprint, with and tawakhaneh heaters for time-tested
“spare” rooms closed off until needed? Art examples of heated floors.
Ludwig’s suggestion is about 200 square • Don’t go too low. Putting radiant heaters
feet per person, maybe 300 square feet in an unused space, such as the basement,
if you’re still getting used to the idea of can lose more than half your heat into the
scaling down. (Art Ludwig, OasisDesign. cellar walls and soil. (A furnace or boiler is
net, “Can a 4000 Square Foot Home Be designed for the inefficiencies of heating
Green?” http://oasisdesign.net/faq/green at a distance; radiant woodstoves, fireplac-
4000ft2home.htm) es, or masonry heaters are not.)
• Share. Consider renting spare rooms, or • Insulate and weatherize. Just as animals
building duplex-style townhomes rather put on a thicker fur coat in the winter-
than isolated houses. Exterior walls con- time, we should have a good layer of
tribute to heating load; interior partitions insulation around our house. Make the
don’t. Bunk-beds rather than separate easiest and most effective measures your
rooms can bring more kids closer to the priorities; these might include attics/ceil-
heat. ings, attic hatches, north-facing windows
• Stack and compact. Apartments or bed- (install heavy drapes or closed-cell blinds),
rooms on upper floors can pack a lot of crawl spaces and any exposed floors, or
living space inside less exposed surface. any uninsulated areas that desperately
Stack functions in the same space, using need attention.
unheated storage for projects and tools • Thermal mass. If insulation is the fur coat,
until you need them. thermal mass is the dense blubber and
• Group and zone. Bring stuff that needs to bone that keeps Arctic wildlife warm. Use
be warm into the core — people, plumb- stone, brick, jars of water or oil, or any
ing, batteries, delicate plants or pets. Close other dense materials to store heat in the
off seldom-used rooms, and heat them core.
only as needed. Organize your storage • Ventilate. The house and everything in it
along the outside — closets, cupboards, needs to breathe. Allow for a minimum
and pantries, screen-porches, sheds, or of one third of the home’s volume of air
per hour. Half the volume is more com- entertaining rooms that were designed for
mon, and some houses draft one to three special occasions; visitors may never see the
times their volume per hour. The mini- everyday core of the house (a parlor and a
mum ventilation provides fresh air and servants’ kitchen, for example, might be
prevents mildew, mold, and structural rot the only rooms that were routinely heated
due to condensation. Provide controls for on ordinary days). Maintaining an orange-
optional ventilation — windows on op- rie has always been a colossal expense, and
posite walls for a cross breeze, stairwell therefore a showy form of conspicuous con-
doors to let air circulate upward or trap sumption. “Unique showpieces” may be
heat on certain floors, heat-exchanging an architectural fantasy, but if they remain
ventilators rather than letting air come in unique, it could be because they were not
at random through dusty crawl spaces and comfortable enough to be copied.
drafty walls. Farmhouses often take a more practi-
• Isolate spare rooms. For rooms that are cal and thrifty approach to heating and
not consistently used (at least 4 hours per multi-use space. Migratory or nomadic
day), consider isolating them from the cultures honed their households down to
main home with doors and interior wall high-quality essentials, like climate-adapted
insulation, insulating them well if you clothing, fur bedding, durable containers,
need to be able to warm them up on de- and easily assembled small tents or sleeping
mand, and using a space heater or small shelters.
parlor stove when needed. Hang quilts Other interesting designs include mod-
on the walls and use a hot water bottle or ern energy-efficient and passive solar designs,
warm, wrapped brick to warm up the guest and “tiny houses” as described in Tiny Homes:
bed. Bathrooms can be heated on demand Simple Shelter by Lloyd Khan, 2012, or
with a heat lamp, and kept half as warm Lester Walker’s Tiny Tiny Houses, or How to
as the rest of the house (50°F/10°C — not Get Away From It All, 1984 (two favorites
freezing). Spare rooms on the shady or from over a hundred recent books showing
windy sides of the house can waste a lot tiny house plans; it’s a big thing lately). Tiny
of heat, or they can become a protective homes are not actually that efficient, they
buffer that saves the rest of your house. have a lot of surface area to insulate com-
pared to their footprint, and one or two
Climate-adapted Housing people living alone can almost never equal
Historic houses last because they are worth the efficiencies of a bigger, shared house-
keeping. Usually, they work well. Pre- hold. But a little jewel-box cabin provides
industrial buildings, especially those still in personal creative control, privacy, maybe
use, can offer good examples of appropriate even a little sanity, and can be a nice retreat
design for your climate and culture. from the demands of social life.
However, don’t be misled by parlors and It’s easy to fall in love with a certain style,
museum tours or by fantasy designs. Many and forget that the building exists to per-
famous houses display only their elegant form specific tasks for your daily comfort.
Does the house fit your climate, lifestyle, different scales (personal, room, house-
and expectations (health, wealth, old age)? hold). The booklet is available at http://
Now is a great time to figure out the www.ErnieAndErica.info/shop.
natural function of all those towers, gables,
colonnades, and cupolas. Do they suit the Chimneys
climate? If your house is too big or has too Some materials about rocket mass heaters
many picture windows to heat affordably, give the impression that “you don’t need a
you may want to create a cozy little core in chimney.” Unfortunately, this is not true in
one corner for everyday living, and let the most actual homes.
rest of the house fend for itself. Some fancy Hot air rises; cool air falls. This process
older houses had extra rooms that were ex- ultimately drives almost all the winds and
plicitly intended for seasonal use only, for air currents on Earth, from foehn winds to
special occasions, or for sunny days; I won- wildfires to a candle flame. But we don’t
der if their designers would laugh to watch really think much about it; and even when
us trying to heat every room in every season. the emergency woodstove in the basement
If you love a particular style, consid- belches smoke in our face on the same mis-
er the climate where it belongs. Russian, erable evening that an ice storm knock out
Polish, and Swedish immigrants brought the electrical lines, we don’t necessarily make
some great cold-weather technologies to the the connection.
North American Midwest. English, French, Some chimney facts:
and Italian influences dominate the coasts.
• Cold chimneys do not draw (or, they draw
Spanish and Pueblo peoples contributed
downward).
remarkable architecture to the Southwest.
• Horizontal “chimneys” do not draw in ei-
Japanese, Italian, and Peruvian styles share
ther direction.
notable symmetry and interlocking struc-
• Taller, hotter, smoother, more vertical,
tures, which can be valuable in earthquake
more airtight chimneys will draw like a
zones.
jet.
“There is no such thing as a perfect
• Cooler, shorter, rough, convoluted, zigzag,
house,” said Gran’ma Enid McCaffery
or broken chimneys will draw unreliably,
Ritter, who lived in 32 different homes from
if at all.
the 1930s Depression through the 2008 re-
cession. There’s always an awkward corner, What do you think happens if you con-
stairwell, or missing pantry. Don’t let imper- nect a bundle of chimney-like shapes, like
fection rob you of enjoying the good points. a stack of warm rooms next to a stack of
In shelter design as in life, success comes vertical 2x4 studs, some sewer and appliance
from good observation skills, knowing your and roof vents, a couple of woodstove chim-
priorities, practice and improvement, and a neys, and let them all draw room air from
good sense of humor. the same house?
Our booklet, Simple Shelter, has even You will get a complicated mess! It’s
more ideas for how to stay warm, at all like trying to pour tea from a pot with
three spouts. The losers (the lower, cooler Air doesn’t read any kind of directional
holes) serve as inlets for the taller, warmer arrows on the chimney; it just flows from
openings. areas of greater pressure to areas with lower
A chimney works by facilitating upward, pressure. So if your house has negative pres-
convective flow of warm air or smoke, while sure inside, there’s a good chance that air or
preventing turbulent interaction with sur- smoke will flow inward through any avail-
rounding air. (If the chimney is too large, able hole, including the one you thought
or rough, then turbulent flow can take place was an “exhaust chimney.”
inside the chimney and severely hamper the It’s our task to ensure that both exhaust
draft.) It provides a barrier between the cold fans and chimneys are able to function
air outside and the hot gases rising inside properly. This requires some vigilance:
the stack.
• Mitigate any chronic negative pressure
A house also is warmer than its sur-
problems in the house, for example by
roundings, and provides a barrier between
providing warmed air to replace air being
its internal warm air and external cold air.
drawn out.
If your house did not allow at least a small
• Avoid operating at cross-purposes. For ex-
amount of air movement, you would suf-
ample, if someone upstairs is too hot and
focate. During the winter, your house is
opens the window, and someone down-
naturally a pretty good chimney.
stairs is too cold and stokes the stove, you
In warm buildings, as in chimneys, the
can burn for hours without fixing either
warmest air rises upward. At the top, it tends
problem. Train savvy operators in the use
to leak outward (positive pressure). Cooler
of simple controls (like doors).
air comes in at the bottom (negative pres-
• Don’t burn unattended. A good operator
sure). Somewhere around one third and one
is ready to adjust make-up air, close room
half the height of the wall, in theory, there’s
doors, or even open an upwind window if
a neutral zone where air neither comes in
a bunch of housemates all start running
nor goes out.
fans at once. (See Appendix 3 for more
This means that any opening in the lower
about make-up air.)
third of a home is almost guaranteed to act
• Be leery of basement installations; the
as an air inlet, all other things being equal.
lower in the house you go, the greater the
Exhaust fans for range hoods, bathrooms,
negative pressure can be. Cold chimneys
ventilation systems, and appliances can cre-
to basement emergency stoves or fire-
ate even more negative pressure inside the
places are notoriously likely to produce
house, increasing the zone of negative pres-
“smoky smells” due to downdrafts.
sure to the point where ANY hole in the
building may draw inward instead of out. Keeping most of the chimney inside the
Airtight homes are worse for generating house gives the reassurance that, with the
negative pressure than older, leaky homes, exception of a few feet at the top, the chim-
because lots of appliances vent outward, ney won’t be colder than the house when
often without replacement air. you try to start the stove.
If the exhaust itself is considerably warm- skirling winds around nearby buildings) and
er than outside air, an insulated chimney three feet above the roof (to avoid swooping
can maintain that difference well enough to currents riding up and down the roof ).
draft upward. But insulation does nothing In areas with heavy snow loads, the re-
if outside air is warmer than the exhaust. quired chimney height may be taller — as
“Priming” or preheating a chimney can get much as 5 or 6 feet above the ridge in some
the draft working better. areas. (Do your winter storms ever deliver 4
In our rocket mass heaters, the firebox it- feet of snow at once?)
self makes a significant contribution to draft. Another chimney design issue is how
The combustion unit is a thermosiphon to get the chimney safely out of the house
draft pump, with somewhat self-regulating without causing leaks or fire hazards. The
draft; a hotter fire draws well, yet the stove first choice is location: through the roof, or
doesn’t draft as much once the fire goes out. through a wall?
In a tiny house with plenty of incoming Through-roof chimneys near the ridge
air and no competing draft forces (wind, are our favorite choice. The building pro-
roof vents, etc.), this thermosiphon effect is tects and supports the chimney, you don’t
strong enough to push exhaust horizontally need weird brackets or lots of expensive in-
at least 20 feet. This is remarkable to any- sulated sections, and the top of the roof is
one who is accustomed to wood heat. Most the easiest place to flash the chimney so it’s
woodstoves require a minimum chimney leak-proof and stays that way. (Avoids ice
length of about 8 vertical feet. Most other dams, excessive rain runoff, and other prob-
wood-fired heaters (including masonry lems found nearer the eaves and dripline.)
heaters) rely on the warm exit chimney to However, in many houses the ridge lo-
power the draft of the system; this is why cation requires passing upward through
most masonry heaters are shaped like a col- ceilings, floors, and rooms. If the doorways
umn or vertical wall. Rocket mass heaters line up wrong, there might not be a suitable
effectively have their 8-foot chimney folded place available without some reframing.
in half, and located right at the firebox ... Midway or lower down the roof can work
but is it enough? OK if your climate doesn’t get much snow,
In larger or taller houses, and in windy or if you can build a blind dormer to divert
climates, we run into problems. The sim- snow and ice.
ple fact is that for a conventional home, Through-wall chimneys often seem easier
the easiest and cheapest reliable solution is a to novice builders. They are easier to reach,
conventional chimney. and the through-wall parts themselves (two
Well-designed chimneys and homes collars and an insulated section) are often
can reduce building pressure problems and cheaper than a through-roof kit. But the
wind gust problems. The principles for good through-wall opening in itself usually isn’t
chimney design are pretty well described in enough. Chimneys should never open di-
the building codes. They must be two feet rectly below the eaves in any climate: you
above anything within ten feet (to avoid are unlikely to get good draft due to intense
pressure gusts, and it could start a fire. So we On the whole, it’s best to install a full-
have to get up above the eaves. height chimney, through the roof, near the
In order to bring the chimney from that center of the house.
side exit up above the ridge line, there will Because many types of fire hazards build
be a lot more exposed chimney than if we’d up over long time periods (such as long-term
gone through the roof. To avoid cold-start baking of woodwork that increases its flam-
problems, water condensation, and creosote mability, or the corrosive effects of smoke),
deposition, the exposed chimney must be building codes are a more reliable guide to
well insulated. best practice than an individual’s personal
Insulated chimney sections are more experience. Very experienced builders often
expensive and heavier than the single or build in excess of code requirements, rather
double-walled sections (which can be used than to the bare minimum.
indoors, as long as there’s enough clearance, Exceptions:
since indoor stovepipe stays warmer than The original rocket mass heaters were
outdoors). So now, not only are we buying a built in cob (earthen-walled) cottages, in
lot more of the expensive, heavy-duty stuff, a valley with mild winters and consistent
but we need to somehow support it going up-and-down-valley winds. These buildings
up a long ways outside the house. And if also had no roof vents, being covered with
you read the manufacturer specs, we re- a pond-liner and living roof (with 100%
ally should be building an insulated chase cedar mill-waste ceilings and cedar purlins,
around that expensive insulated chimney if in case that sounds like a recipe for rot).
we want it to stay warm enough to perform. In this situation, the walls are noncom-
Basically, putting up a chimney outside bustible, there are no snow loading issues,
the house means building it a house of its the house acts more like an oven than a
own so it can stay warm and not have to cling chimney, so the builders have gotten away
to the outside of the house like a monkey. with little snorkel-like chimneys poking
Even with all that, the chimney still up just over the eaves. If your house is one
won’t draft as well as it could have if it was story, has a ventless membrane-lined roof,
sharing its heat back and forth inside your and you live in a place with consistent wind
warm house. directions so you can put your exhaust on
Through-wall installations can also have the downwind side, you might get away
problems with water running down the with it.
chimney and back into the wall. Storm col- Further discussion of chimneys, and
lars help a bit, but it usually takes several. commonly proposed alternatives like fans or
Coming out as high as possible on the gable outside air, can be found in Chapter 2 and
wall, rather than under a drip line, helps Chapter 6.
with several of these issues, but it is still not
as easy or weatherproof as a through-roof
installation.
Appendix 5:
Wood Heat Considerations
H eating with natural fuels is an

ancient part of human life. Recent
industrial centuries have turned fire into an
the home fires. Watching, listening, and
arranging the hearth is a sacred responsi-
bility; it calls for mindfulness — a constant
automated specialty, allowed a large popula- awareness of one’s surroundings even while
tion to grow up without personal experience attending to other chores or company.
of wood heat (or other natural fuels, such as If heating exclusively with wood is your
peat, dung, or straw). goal, then you must come to terms with
Our 2013 publication The Art of Fire spending a certain amount of time with
contains a great deal of back-to-basics infor- the fire. Responsive radiant heaters (such
mation about managing fire in general. It is as most iron woodstoves, radiant fireplac-
available at www.ErnieAndErica.info/shop, es, and blower-style heaters) require a live
and www.rocketstoves.com. fire to produce heat. Storage heaters, on the
For serious home heating, several addi- other hand, retain warmth long after the fire
tional aspects of wood heat bear mention. goes out, but require a certain amount of
The Nature of Fire: Fire is a chemical tending during and just after the fire.
reaction that, once started, is self-perpet- Fuel Handling and Storage: There is an
uating — so long as fuel and air remain old saying about firewood — that it warms
available. It has its own responses to chang- you twice: once in the cutting and once in
ing conditions, such as wind, fuel quality, the burning. Gathering enough firewood is
and surroundings. Fire does not respond a significant chore. Anyone contemplating
well to wishful thinking; in order to use it a wood-fired heater as a way to save money
effectively, you must understand it on its should definitely include the cost of deliv-
own terms. ered firewood as an annual expense. A good
Minding the Fire: Many ancient cul- woodshed is essential; it needs to be large
tures had a “hearth goddess” who tended enough to store at least two years’ supply of
241
fuel, and ideally have room for tool storage offers a better return on investments in fuel
and kindling splitting as well. and tending.
Dry Fuel: Fuel must be dry to burn Hearth Inspection and Maintenance:
properly. Wet fuel releases large amounts Anyone depending on wood heat needs a reli-
of steam. The process of boiling wet wood able hearth. Masonry and metal components
costs energy, plus the volume of steam in- must remain in good condition, with sever-
volved (1700 times the original volume of al layers of protection between the fire itself
liquid moisture) tends to extinguish the and any surrounding combustible materials.
secondary combustion process, depriving Hearth inspection should be routine before
the fire of over half its heat. Wet wood caus- starting any fire (to catch misplaced combus-
es creosote deposition, which can lead to tibles on stovetop or mantle). Chimney flue
chimney fires. Depending on how wet a fuel inspection and cleaning should occur at least
is, it may be difficult or impossible to light a annually. Homeowners new to wood heat
fire. Properly dried and seasoned wood has are well advised to hire a professional chim-
15–25% moisture content, most of which ney sweep for the first inspection, and get a
is “bound” moisture in the form of volatile personal lesson in what to look for with their
resins. (Source: www.chimneysweeponline. particular chimney.
com) Hidden and Long-term Fire Hazards:
Fire Control: Ancient civilizations had Good design for safe combustion requires a
a very healthy fear of fire and a tradition of knowledge of materials and building history
vigilance (sometimes extending to rooftop beyond what is normally expected of an in-
platforms equipped with tanks, for wet- dividual person.
ting down urban roofs in time of fire). Fire In most circumstances wood doesn’t
that escapes its hearth can quickly become catch fire below about 400°F (and any-
a deadly force. Modern building code pre- one who’s tried to light a campfire knows
scribes clearances, spark arrestors, building that logs don’t catch easily without a lot of
practices, and other measures to ensure that help). Yet wood that is routinely exposed to
a fire remains contained within its designat- temperatures above 150°F can undergo a
ed fireplace and does not spread to other long-term baking process known as pyrolysis,
parts of the building. which breaks down and darkens the wood
Smoke Mitigation: Smoke is a sec- fibers, creating a very dry and flammable
ondary danger of fire, one that is toxic and material that can ignite or store embers
potentially lethal. Although smoke inhala- much more readily than new green wood.
tion kills many victims of a house fire before Metal stovepipe reliably carries smoke
they are ever touched by flame, only in and heat out of the house — until it is coat-
recent centuries have we expected to keep ed with creosote and catches fire. Modern
indoor and outdoor air smoke-free. Because chimneys are built to withstand at least one
smoke is unburned fuel, any fire that pro- chimney fire; those who burn wet wood and
duces large amounts of smoke is inherently endure repeated chimney fires may push
inefficient. Clean fire is much healthier, and these materials beyond the limits of their
Appendix 5: Wood Heat Considerations 243
design. Even the most fireproof materials coals or embers. This third stage is the one
can warp or leak if abused long enough. that makes fantastic barbecue, because the
Builders who rely only on personal judg- heat is released as a steady glow rather than
ment and experience sometimes skimp the dancing flames. Embers generally produce
clearances to combustibles, reasoning that less smoke, though invisible carbon mon-
their day-to-day experience defies a fire to oxide may be produced if the temperatures
catch across so much material. Those who’ve become too low.
poked deeper into historic buildings and The goal in creating clean fire is to ensure
city fires take fewer chances. that all the volatile combustion gases remain
Fire does not make exceptions for ap- hot enough, with ample air, and ample mix-
pearances. An exposed chimney wall is in ing, for long enough to burn completely.
many ways safer than an enclosed or walled- Ianto Evans refers to this in his book, Rocket
in chimney, since the warm void spaces hide Mass Heaters, as “time, temperature, and
and nurture problems. We make it a policy turbulence.”
never to disguise one material as another, for
example painting over lower-grade metal to Chemistry
make it look like enameled stovepipe. Fire Clean fire produces two main chemicals:
safety is nothing to fool around with. water vapor and carbon dioxide. While this
“cleaner” exhaust is oxygen depleted and
Flame Dynamics not safe to breathe in an enclosed space, it’s
Temperatures much less toxic than carbon monoxide or
Clean fire starts around 1100°F, when car- smoke.
bon monoxide can be completely oxidized Smoke is unburned fuel. A smoky fire
into carbon dioxide. For our purposes, we is by definition wasting fuel (unless you are
aim for a firebox temperature between 1200 trying to smoke meat or signal for help).
and 2400°F. Temperatures above 2600°F The unburned or partially burned fuel in
not only require rarer and more expensive smoke can include tars, oils and resins, soot
refractory materials, but can also increase particles, kerosene and turpentine, wood
pollution by burning nitrogen from the air. alcohols, vinegar, carbon monoxide, and
The process of fire happens in stages. First, many other chemicals. Most of the chem-
any remaining moisture is driven from the icals in wood smoke have two things in
wood as steam. (This can have the effect of common: they are flammable, and they are
suppressing the fire if there is enough of it.) not good to breathe.
Second, volatile chemicals in the fuel vaporize
and break down, creating a highly flammable Carbon and Creosote:
vapor that burns as flame. From 50–70% of Why Hot Fires Are Safer
the fire’s heat comes from these volatile oils, Clean Fire = Clean Chimneys and Clean Air
resins, and vaporized carbohydrates. If smoke passes through a cool chimney
Third, the remaining solid material of or heat-exchange channel, it will condense
the fuel “catches” and begins to burn as as soot (carbon) and creosote. Creosote is a
tarry residue that is difficult to remove from So a “75% efficient woodstove,” graded on a
chimneys, highly flammable, and burns very curve where 85% = 100%, puts about 64%
hot. Creosote fires can demolish steel chim- of the available wood energy into heating
neys, cause masonry to crack, and char or the home. It releases the rest as smoke or
ignite adjacent woodwork. To reduce creo- chimney heat. Burning damp wood, or op-
sote buildup, metal woodstoves are required erating the stove with improperly adjusted
to keep their exhaust-chimney temperatures air feeds, can reduce the efficiency by half or
above 350°F (180°C). This encourages the more of this already-underwhelming total.
smoke to leave the chimney without con- In ancient times, many poor people’s homes
densing on the sides (a cold chimney acts as used fires without chimneys to conserve
a creosote distiller if any creosote is present more heat in the home; to survive the win-
in the smoke). ter on scarce or costly fuel was a bigger safety
This hot minimum exhaust temperature consideration than the immense amount of
represents a lot of lost heat. A masonry heat- smoke inhalation involved. Clever peasants
er or rocket mass heater could theoretically used every trick in the book to minimize
be 20–40% more efficient that a woodstove, smoky waste and extract the most heat out
just by reducing the exhaust temperature. of the fire.
Lower exhaust temperatures mean less heat Many owners don’t like losing heat out
is wasted outdoors, and more heat is being the chimney. But we also don’t want to
saved inside the building. (In the case of huddle in a smoky cave, or suffer repeated
masonry heaters, their ability to store heat creosote fires. To safely lower chimney tem-
long after the fire goes out with the exhaust peratures, we need a consistently smokeless
completely shut down is an efficiency factor fire.
that is rarely considered in the convention- People have been designing smokeless
al comparisons. Masonry heaters give off stoves for thousands of years. Archeological
no emissions and virtually no wasted heat examples of “fox stoves” from the Indian
during the stored-heat phase.) However, subcontinent appear as early as 5000 years
to reduce exhaust temperatures safely, the ago. Our ancestors learned this skill as an
heater must burn virtually smokeless, elimi- essential element of survival. But this skill
nating creosote before it can condense inside has become uncommon through disuse and
the pipes or chimney. cultural displacement in the modern day.
Woodstove efficiency ratings take this Rebuilding it takes intelligent research and
disadvantage into account; advertised effi- willing practice.
ciencies are based on a theoretical maximum The first step to clean fire is dry fuel.
efficiency of 85%, with 15% of the theo- Dry, seasoned fuel has about 15% moisture
retical heat being released out the chimney content. To estimate the moisture content
to meet regulations. If a stove was able to of your wood, measure its weight, then bake
deliver all 85% of its available heat, while it in an oven for 12 to 24 hours (or store it
maintaining the required chimney tempera- indoors for a few months). Weigh it again.
tures, it would be considered 100% efficient. The difference in weight represents water
driven off. A “lazy” person who fails to build Only the operator can procure dry
a proper woodshed may be working more wood. The stove’s designer and builder can
than twice as hard as necessary: hauling all do nothing except hope that their work will
that water weight into the house, and then be appreciated and properly used by an in-
hauling in extra wood in order to provide formed and responsible owner.
the energy to boil away the water in the The second step to clean fire is fo-
original wood. cusing the heat, fuel, and air together to
If your fuel has not checked (small cracks produce a clean burn.Keep in mind Ianto
that appear as wood dries) or lost weight Evans’s “time, temperature and turbulence”
since you stored it; if you see sap boiling at rule — you must keep the ingredients hot
the ends of your fuel in the woodstove; or if and well-mixed for complete chemical com-
there are green leaves, green moss, or fresh bustion. An experienced campfire cook can
mushroom growth in the woodpile, your achieve a nearly-smokeless fire using the
fuel is not dry. Fuel that rests on the ground, wood alone to guide and focus the flames.
or under a dew-collecting tarp, or is exposed But most people who are burning wood for
to periodic rainfall is not dry. When you ask heat want to spend less time tending the fire.
a seller if the wood is dry, and they reply, “It The heater mason’s job is to make it as
hasn’t rained in at least a week,” the fuel is easy as possible to run a smokeless fire, near-
not dry. ly all the time. The owner’s job is to follow
A good woodshed lifts the fuel off the the basic instructions, using dry fuel and
ground, has an overhang to prevent rain and burning the appropriate size fire for the
snow falling on the wood, and has ventilat- heater. (When less heat is required, instead
ed sides to encourage air movement. Green of using a smaller fire, the owner can burn
fuel can be stacked loose to dry faster; once the heater less often — but always at proper
dry, fuel wood can be stacked tight. temperatures for clean fire.)
In a camping or emergency situation, the The best-designed masonry heaters do
drier wood outdoors will be “standing dead” not require cleaning very often (if ever),
fuel (low, dead branches still attached to a because the wood is burned so thoroughly
living tree and sheltered under the canopy). that no charcoal, and very little mineral ash,
Dead-and-down fuel lying on the ground is left behind. When paper is burned, fly
will contain much more water. Green ash will accumulate faster. A typical wood-
branches are so full of moisture, even when stove is designed so that all the ash either
the tree is dormant, that they are used delib- lands back in the firebox or flushes out the
erately for smoke signals, and for evaporative chimney. A masonry heater may have an
water collection in desert environments. If ash grate or cleanout drawer. A rocket mass
the branch bends as you attempt to pluck heater, and some masonry heaters, can be
it, it is not dry. Good kindling jumps when cleaned by scooping the ash out through
it is split, rings when it is tapped; excellent the same opening where the wood goes in.
kindling makes you somewhat ashamed you Annual or semi-annual removal of fly ash
are not using it to build a violin. from the heat-exchange channels is done
with a vacuum or brush and bucket, when masonry heaters let the fire burn hot and
the stove is cool. clean, and store the heat in a large masonry
mass for gradual and comfortable release.
Air-to-fuel Ratios Rocket mass heaters in particular run
Airtight stoves attempt to prolong a fire by well with open air and a full fuel box: the
starving it of oxygen. While this method tight-packed fuel allows just about the right
(and related techniques like “banking” a fire) amount of air to enter, for good pre-ignition
can be effective for short-term overnight mixing of hot air and fuel gases. A hotter fire
heating, in the long term, the practice of draws more air, self-regulating the balance
starving a fire is unsafe and not very efficient. of air and available fuel. Instead of trying to
Air-starved fires that include fresh vola- starve the fire, the operator simply lets it run
tile wood produce large amounts of smoke its course, then closes things down afterwards.
and creosote. Since smoke is unburned fuel, All masonry heaters are typically closed
more than half the heat potential of the wood down after the fire is out, to reduce air flow
is lost, requiring much larger fuel storage to and retain more heat overnight. Some de-
heat the same building compared to a more signs, including rocket mass heaters and other
efficient method. And finally, since creosote “contraflow” stoves, have a peculiar “U-trap”
and chimney fires are very dangerous, stoves function that slows the flow when not in use.
using this method require a substantial The up-and-down channels act as a thermo-
investment in chimney insulation and creo- siphon pump when the fire is hot, but flow
sote cleaning. An airtight stove is basically a more slowly during start-up and cool-down,
tar and creosote retort disguised as a parlor and slower yet when there is no fire. The
heater. U-trap function doesn’t trap 100% of the
EPA-certified woodstoves are no longer warm air — that would make the heater dif-
allowed to be truly “airtight.” Most pro- ficult to light and to operate safely — but it
vide a supply of heated secondary air for does help the heater self-regulate and waste
clean combustion that cannot be reduced less heat when the operator is distracted.
by the manufacturer’s dampers or air con- In general, the masonry heater lets the
trols. Many still provide a long-burn option operator off easy, while getting the most
where the fire can burn untended for 6 to 8 from the fire.
hours or more.
Fluid Dynamics
Fireplaces that run with full-open air
(35:1 air-to-fuel-ratios) are exempt from Convection
some of the air-quality regulations that gov- Convection is the process by which heated
ern controlled stoves, on the assumption fluids rise. It has been discussed at length
that they will never be starved. elsewhere as pertains to chimney function,
Rocket mass heaters do not need to starve house draft and negative pressure, and warm
the fire of air to produce steady warmth. air stagnation in the room. For the fire itself,
Instead of trying to bring the combustion convection is the force which pushes hot ex-
process down to a comfortable temperature, haust out of the way, and brings cool fresh
air in to feed the flames. The right draft restriction in areas meeting at right angles,
speed and amount of incoming air is a crit- for example the gap needed in the manifold
ical factor in achieving efficient, complete where the gases change direction to enter
combustion. the bench duct.
Laminar Flow Thermosiphons and Chimneys

Laminar flow is the process by which moving A thermosiphon is to a chimney what a water
fluids sort themselves into layers of differ- siphon is to a drainpipe.
ent speeds. The layers nearest a surface are A regular siphon works because of the
slowed by friction and turbulence. The next weight of fluid in the long leg. In the absence
layers inward move more easily and faster, of leaks, a lot of water flowing downward
as they are lubricated by the air cushion at can pull a smaller weight of water upward
the outer surface. The central layers in any for continuous flow. The siphon works only
current move the fastest. when there is a significant difference in
Laminar flow matters in chimneys be- height between the upper and lower water
cause the friction component is much sources, and the hose remains full of water
greater in small tubes, or rough ones, than (or any fluid of about the same weight). A
in large smooth tubes. Corrugated tubing, typical siphon is an upside down J, with the
or tubes of less than 4˝ diameter, can have so short end in the source tank and the long
much surface friction that only very short, end draining water downward.
vertical chimneys can draft without com- A thermosiphon works along very similar
plete obstruction of the flow. At a certain principles, except that the general direction
lower size limit, somewhere near 4˝ diam- of flow is affected by temperature.The whole
eter, a rocket mass heater as described here void must be filled with a similar-density
ceases to function as described. fluid, such as air, water, or oil. The hotter
fluids will move upward, the cooler ones
Turbulence downward. In a tank or an O-shaped pipe,
Turbulence is when a fluid is mixing and you can make a thermosiphon by heating
tumbling, not flowing smoothly. Turbulence one side and allowing the other to cool, es-
involves a lot of extra drag and friction, and tablishing a circular flow. A typical room
makes things flow a lot slower. In the fire with a hot woodstove is a good example:
itself, turbulence can be a positive force, cre- hot air rises upward near the stove, flows
ating good mixing between air and fuel. In along the ceiling, and cool air flows down-
chimneys and heat-exchange channels, tur- ward along the opposite wall, especially if it
bulence is not helpful, and can obstruct draft. has poorly insulated doors or windows. As
Because abrupt changes in direction a result, the people in the room experience
create a lot of turbulence, greater volume cold drafts at floor level and the stove ends
is needed to prevent flow restriction. Peter up producing a lot of inaccessible hot air.
van den Berg uses an estimate of 150% of A J-shaped thermosiphon (such as our
the system CSA as a minimum to avoid flow firebox) operates in a similar way as the
reverse-J water siphon. The short leg is near To = absolute outside air temperature,
the source of fuel and air. The flames fol- in K (may also be called Te)
low the longer leg upward, creating very hot Ti = absolute average temperature of the
temperatures and strong draft. This draws flue gas, in K
air downward in the short leg. This is why How much air flows into the bottom
the J-shaped firebox stays cool at the top and of the chimney is estimated by the formula
doesn’t put out smoke: the heat riser keeps below.
it drafting in the right direction. As exhaust
gases cool, they can flow downward again. For calculating flow rates (laminar flow,
In addition to a difference in height and not turbulent):
the absence of leaks, a thermosiphon also re- Q = C × A × √(2×g×H×[(Ti – Te)÷Te])
quires a consistent temperature or difference where:
in temperatures. If the short leg became
much hotter than the long one, the ther- Q = flue gas flow rate, m3/s
mosiphon could stop working or even flow A = cross-sectional area of chimney, m2
backward. Cold air could flow downward C = discharge coefficient (a derived con-
in the longer leg under gravity, as in a cold stant, usually from 0.65 to 0.70)
chimney, or when inside the house is colder g = gravitational acceleration at sea
than outside air. level, 9.807 m/s2 (32 feet per second per
If there are leaks, a thermosiphon behaves second)
much like an ordinary siphon, dumping the H = height of chimney, in meters
fluid out both legs at once. In the case of a Ti = absolute average temperature of the
rocket mass heater, air leaks into the bottom flue gas in the stack, in degrees K
of the firebox will inevitably cause both feed Te = absolute outside air temperature
and heat riser to act as two parallel chim- or starting temperature, in degrees K
neys, causing unwanted smoke and flames (sometimes called To)
to escape out of the feed. Simple Flow rate:
Chimney Draft by the Numbers Q=A×V
For simple vertical chimneys, here are some where:

general equations: A = cross-sectional area of flow
General equation for calculating draft V = velocity of flow
pressure in a chimney:
Rocket Stove Math Collection
ΔP = C×a×H×(1÷To − 1÷Ti)
These dimensions are built into the plans in
where: Chapter 4 if you can use standard materials.
ΔP = available pressure difference, in Pa But for those with nonstandard materials,
C = 0.0342 you may have to adjust things a bit to retain
a = atmospheric pressure, in Pa the right cross-sectional flow areas (CSA)
H = height of the chimney, in m and to check that any proposed changes are
A rocket mass heater usually has at least four vertically combined behavior accurately through all phases of
oriented draft “chimneys” working in different ways: the fire, and the full range of outdoor temperatures
and wind pressures, is almost as complicated as pre-
• the heat riser (major vertical)
dicting the weather itself. We have put most of our
• the exit chimney (minor vertical — but the easiest to
efforts into practical testing in real-life conditions,
predict with conventional estimating methods)
rather than theoretical modeling. Francesco Truovo of
• the downdraft column around the inside of the bar-
the University of Milan did some interesting work in his
rel (important downdraft)
master’s thesis in 2015, modeling J-type firebox flow
• the downdraft in the feed tube itself (negative ver-
patterns using software designed to model house fires.
tical) — this downfeed chimney is being forced to
(Sources: “Chimney Draft” by Jim Buckley of Buckley Rumford
work backwards against its natural draft; its natural
Fireplaces, at www.rumford.com; http://www.rumford.com/draft.
draw is a load (or negative contribution) that the
html. Page dated 5/29/11. Last accessed 6/2/2015; F. Truovo, Uni
heat riser and other draft elements must carry to versity of Milan, private conversation, June 2015; and engineering
maintain correct draft flow. toolbox.com, accessed 6/2/2015)
All of the above chimneys could potentially be

considered together as a “system,” but modeling their
still comparable to other successful projects. Volume of the barrel outside the heat
Most builders work from past performance riser: Area of barrel minus heat riser’s area
rather than theoretical predictions. (W × L, or pi × R2), times height:
A = (pi × R12 – pi × R22) × H or A = (pi
Areas and Volumes
× R12 – W × L) × H
Circles and Cylinders
Area of the heat riser gap — a cylinder
(R = Radius, D = diameter, CSA = Cross- wall like a thin paper crown that blocks the
sectional area, L = Length, W = Width, A = space between heat riser and barrel:
Area)
pi × R2 × H (H=height of gap).
Diameter: 2*R (usually refers to inside
diameter, or ID) Rectangles
Cross-sectional area (CSA): (L=Length, W=Width, H=Height )
pi × R2 = 3.1416 × R × R Cross-sectional area: L ×W, or L × H
Volume: L × W × H, minus any
Surface area:
intrusions
Circumference 2 × pi × R = pi × D = Surface areas: Calculate the area of each
3.1416 × Diameter side, and add them together.
Volume of a cylinder or pipe: For a rectangular bench with all sides
CSA × L = (pi × R2) × L exposed: 2 × L × W (top and bottom) + 2
× L × H (long sides) + 2 × W × H (short square, consider making your burn tunnel

sides). For a bench tucked into a corner, the rectangle slightly taller and narrower, rather
hidden sides will not require plaster or emit than wide and low, as the taller shape is eas-
useful heat: L × W (top) + L × H (visible ier to clean.
long side) + W × H (visible short side). To get the flow area, you multiply width
times height for the horizontal tunnel, or
Adapting Burn Tunnel Size to width times opening length for the vertical
a Particular Local Brick legs (fuel feed, heat riser). Since both height
Firebrick stacked in various ways can make and length are multiplied by the same width,
burn tunnel courses of certain dimensions the openings at each end would be the same
easily, without cutting brick. With standard length as the burn tunnel height.
firebrick (2.5˝ × 4.5˝ × 9˝), we can make To calculate the total length of the fire-
courses of these dimensions:. box, I would lay out the bridge (say, four
firebricks, about 10˝ without mortar) and
4.5˝ tall (on edge)
add the opening length on each end.
5˝ tall (two bricks laid flat)
I check that this length allows the first
7˝ tall (one flat, one on edge)
brick in the bridge, and thus all four bricks
7.5˝ tall (3 courses flat)
around the fuel feed, to stand free of my
9˝ tall (2 courses on edge)
barrel. With a very large barrel, I might add
With half-firebrick (1.25˝ by 4.5˝ by 9˝) up to two more bricks in the bridge, and
available as well as full brick, we can also make the firebox up to 25˝ long.
make these dimensions without cutting The heat riser will continue up at least
bricks: three times the feed height, twice the burn
tunnel length.
5.75˝ tall (half-brick flat + 1 full on edge)
Critical Gap Sizes: To allow for fly ash,
6.25˝ tall (half-brick flat + 2 full flat)
the manifold and barrel should have at least
8.75˝ tall (half-brick flat+ 3 full flat)
a 1.5 to 2˝ gap from the outside of the heat
We typically don’t use gap-filling mor- riser to the inside of the barrel.
tars with good-quality firebricks, but if we Heat Riser Gap: The gap between heat
wanted to make further adjustments we riser and the INSIDE surface of the barrel
could include ¹⁄₈˝ of mortar between each top must be at least one quarter the system
course. diameter: 2˝ for an 8˝ system; 1.5˝ or 1.75˝
Other sizes of brick may stack to slightly for a 6˝ system. If the heat riser top is broad
different dimensions. You will either need to and not sloped, expect fly ash to clog this
adjust the dimensions of the firebox slightly, area. Ernie prefers this gap be close to the
or cut some of the bricks, or make up the minimum dimensions above. Other build-
differences with a good fireclay mortar. ers often make very large gaps.
When adjusting the dimensions of the Heat-exchange Manifold Gap: For the
firebox, roughly square is a good rule of opening where the pipe comes from the
thumb. If your courses will not come out manifold into the heat-exchange area, we
assume there will be more fly ash and that surface area (which absorbs heat and causes
the gas flow will be mostly from above. So frictional drag) compared to volume (which
there should be a gap in front of the heat-ex- represents the system’s power, in terms of a
change ducting roughly double the gap quantity of fuel and the heated gases that
for above the heat riser, or the same as the can fit in it and flow through it). The flow
pipe’s radius (4˝ for an 8˝ system, 3˝ for a rates affect the speed of the system, which
6˝ system). in turn affects the fire’s temperature and the
In many manifold designs, there can be quantity of heat produced per time.
a narrow, easily-clogged “slot” where the
barrel feeds to the outflow area. It may be Surface area (SA) and friction are pro-
easier to envision this curved slot as a bent portional to the circumference of pipes:
rectangle. To match an 8˝ diameter system = pi × D (2piR);
size, 50 square inches, you’d need an open- Flow is proportional to cross-sectional
ing roughly: 5˝ × 10˝; 4˝ × 13˝; 3˝ × 17˝; or area (CSA) of pipes: pi × R^2 (= pi × R
2˝ × 25˝ (almost half the circumference of × R):
the barrel!).
An ash pit in the manifold (extra volume 2˝ diameter pipe: 2:1 SA = 2 × pi =
below the entrance to the heat-exchange 6.3 inches; CSA = 1 × pi = 3.1 square
ducts) reduces the frequency of ash blockag- inches
es in this critical area. 4˝ diameter pipe: 1:1 SA = 4 × pi = 13
inches; CSA= 4 × pi = 13 square inches
Why a 4˝ System Doesn’t Work
Well: Math-based Discussion 6˝ diameter pipe: 2:3 SA = 6 × pi =
One of the characteristics of laminar flow 18.8 inches, CSA = 9 × pi = 28.3 square
along surfaces is that there is frictional drag inches
at the surface. Layers farther from the sur- 8˝ diameter pipe: 1:2 SA = 8 × pi = 25.1
face flow faster and more freely. In a pipe or inches, CSA = 16 × pi = 50.3 square
channel, the fastest-flowing currents are in inches
the center. The slower side currents provide
a sort of lubricating effect, reducing fric- 10˝ diameter pipe: 2:5 SA = 10 × pi
tional drag on the fast central current. = 31.4 inches, CSA = 25 × pi = 78.5
The whole trick of running exhaust gases square inches
horizontally is one of balancing the system’s
12˝ diameter pipe: 1:3 SA = 12 × pi
natural draft (which is powered by the fire’s
= 37.7 inches, CSA = 36 × pi = 113
heat), to overcome the drag (friction or re-
square inches
sistance) caused by moving the gases past
the walls of the heat-exchange paths. You can see that for a 2˝ diameter pipe,
To imagine the difference in flow speeds the surface area and resulting frictional drag
and power that are available with a larger from the sides of the pipe is much larger
pipe size, it’s worth considering the ratios of than the flow area.
Our most common sizes — 6˝ and 8˝ — might be intended for 752°F (400°C) or so.
have a flow area that is a bit larger than the “Refractory” refers to materials intended
friction-causing side surfaces. for situations above 1000°F (540°C). “Hot
A 12˝ system is more than double the lava” or any red-hot object might be 2000°F
flow of an 8˝ system, as a 6˝ system is more (1000°C). Incandescent light bulb filaments
than double the flow of a 4˝ system. routinely reach 4500 to 5400°F (2500 to
This may also be useful in creating a 3000 C, higher for halogen and theatrical
fudge-factor if you want to split the exhaust lamps), similar to the surface of the sun.
into multiple parallel runs, e.g. for a radiant At temperatures above the intended
floor, instead of a single linear series of con- maximum, most materials either melt (met-
nected channels. als and plastics), burn (synthetics, natural
We have found that an 8˝ system works fibers, some minerals), or lose structural in-
OK if split down, for example, into two 6˝ tegrity due to other chemical changes like
straight runs; this increases the CSA from extreme dehydration. Many materials begin
50 square inches to almost 60 square inches, to undergo permanent changes well below
while the surface area (drag) increases from their destruction temperature, so it’s best to
25 square inches to almost 40 square inches. allow a margin of safety.
The one place that it may be possible to use
Some Useful Reference
4˝ pipe is as a lot of parallel, short, straight
Temperatures
runs off a larger system. We know of one
rather odd system where a 10˝ industri- Human Comfort
al-scale combustion unit (designed to smelt • “Room temperature” is officially set at
aluminum) was split down into seven 4˝ 68–70°F (20°C); individual preferences
runs to radiate under an earthen floor. The range from about 62°F (15°C) up to 85°F
heater runs fine; the CSA is 91 square inch- (30°C).
es compared to 78.5 square inches, and the • “Lukewarm” or “bathwater” temperatures
powerful fire is apparently enough to over- are roughly similar to body heat, 100°F
come the nearly tripled frictional drag (from (40°C).
31.4 square inches to 91 square inches). The • “Hot to the touch” means different things
owner does not know whether the heating to different people, but for many people
is evenly distributed, however, as the floor the hottest touchable surface is 120–135°F.
becomes too hot to walk on during firing. Maximum legal heat for a sauna in the
US is 194°F (90°C); though the original tra-
Temperatures ditional saunas might run closer to 140°F
“High temperature” is almost meaningless (60°C) on occasion.
unless you know the “normal temperature” Masonry heaters generally run at sau-
that is implied in the comparison. “High- na-like surface temperatures: 120–250°F
temperature” tumble dryers and foil tapes (50–120°C), depending on design. Some
may handle temperatures up to around designs include hotter surfaces or ovens for
300°F; whereas “high-temperature” concrete cooking, baking, and radiant heating across
greater distances. (Source: David Lyle, The • Creosote/chimney fire*: 2000–3000°F

Book of Masonry Stoves, p. 118). Many tra- (1100–1650°C)
ditional designs include a bench or bed for • Theoretical maximum (adiabatic flame)
occupants to enjoy direct body comfort, as for wood and most natural fuels: 3600°F
well as a hotter vertical surface for distribut- (1980°C)
ing radiant heat into nearby rooms. • Actual temperatures measured in open
Radiant woodstove surface temperatures flames**:
generally average 330–420°F (170–220°C), b continuous region 1650°F (900°C,
with maximum surface temperatures up to small flames) to 2190°F (1200°C, larger
780°F (420°C). Stovepipe temperatures may fires)
be similar, but can max out hotter (up to b flame tips 600 to 930 °F (320 to 500°C,
1435°F [780°C] for stovepipe inner surfac- varies with fuel)

es). (Source: Wood Heating Safety Research: b candle flame peak temperatures: 2550°F
An Update, Richard Peacock, Center for Fire (1400°C)

Research, National Bureau of Standards,
Gaithersburg Maryland 20899, manuscript (Sources: *University of Michigan Extension
dated 1987.) Bulletin E-1388, “The Creosote Problem.”
**“Temperature in flames and fires,” by Dr. Vytens
Wood Heat Babrauskas, Fire Science and Technology Inc. www.
• Touchably warm, safe temperatures for doctorfire.com/flametmp.html, visited 11/29/2012)
wood walls and structures are 120–150°F (UL-listed appliances in the USA are tested to
(50 to 66°C). Woodstove testing protocols 115°F above ambient room temperature, or a
find the safe distance by measuring how maximum of about 185°F using a firebrand test
far away walls must be so that they do not of super-hot-burning kiln-dried softwood strips
exceed 85°F above ambient temperature — Ken Rajesky, “Wood Stove Wall Clearances —
during the hottest phase of the fire (so, Primer,” http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.
if the ambient temperature is 70°F, the php/articles/stove_wall_clear, 11/27/2012)
clearance would be considered inadequate
if the walls got above 155°F). A Rocket Mass Heater’s Typical
• Severe drying/ potential charring occurs at Surface Temperatures (Varies with
200°F (95°C). Long-term damage and in- Design and Site)
creased flammability are known to occur • Flame path (sides of burn tunnel and heat
in wood heated to these temperatures on a riser): 900°F to 2500°F depending on
regular basis. design
• Charring/breakdown (gases are released, • Barrel surface: similar to woodstoves —
which may ignite): 230–450°F (110–230°C) 200°F to 800°F
• Auto ignition: charcoal/dry pine/dry oak: • Masonry surfaces: combustion unit similar
660/800/900°F (350/430/480°C) to masonry heaters (up to 200°F); heat-ex-
• Clean burn begins (no smoke, little or no change mass surface generally cooler (up
CO): 1100–2000°F (600–1000°C) to 120°F).
Maximum Temperature Limits • Cordierite refractory (crystalline magne-

for Relevant Materials sium alumino-silicate): 2280°F (1250°C)
Coverings: • Kiln brick (soft brick, insulative brick):
• Synthetics: (polystyrene/polyurethane/ 2300–2400–2600°F (1260–1320–1430°
mylar): 165/250/300°F (75/120/150°C; C, or as rated)
for example, insulation foam, cushion • Firebrick/silica firebrick: 2850–3000°F
foam, “high temperature” foil tape) (1580–1650°C)
• Fabrics: • Alumina silicate refractory: up to 2370–
b High iron: linen, cotton, natural canvas:
3090°F (1300–1700°C)
390°F (200°C) • Refractory cements: products are available
b Medium iron: wool, silk: 300°F (150°C)
rated for 2100, 2400, 2800, 3100°F
b Low iron: polyamide, acrylic, many syn-
Mineral Insulation:
thetics: 230°F (110°C)
• Metals: melting points (catastrophic fail • Fiberglass (insulation, gaskets): 1000°F
temperatures) (540°C)
b Aluminum: 1220°F (660°C)
• Mineral wool/Rock wool: 1800°F (1000°C)
b Brass (yellow/red): 1660–1880°F (905–
• Perlite: 2300°F (1,260°C)
1025°C) • Alumina silicate refractory: up to 2370°–
b Copper: 1980°F (1080°C)
3090°F (1300°–1700°C)
b Iron (ductile/cast/wrought): 2060– • Other refractory insulation: see manufac-
2900°F (1150–1590°C) turer’s rating for each material — many
b Nickel: 2650°F (1450°C)
options are available for 2100, 2400, 2800,
b Steel: 2600–2800°F (1430–1540°C)
some up to 3100; a few go up to 3500°F
b Stainless steel: 2750°F (1510°C) (Sources: EngineeringToolbox.com, vari-
Masonry: ous manufacturers’ product specs.)
• Portland cement, concrete (also lime mor- Wood-Fired Designs for

tars, paints, plasters): Other Goals
b Steam spalling from trapped water: A rocket mass heater is an effective design
220°F (100°C) for heating people in temperate to cold cli-
b Degradation/weakening of concrete mates. Thermal mass stabilizes temperatures
from 750°F (400°C) over time, so this type of heater is best for
b Structural failures with many aggregates: spaces that are used roughly half the time or
1200°F (650°C) more. (Four hours per day may be a prac-
b High-temperature concrete (amended tical minimum; if you are not using the
Portland cement) can operate at the space at least four waking hours a day, it’s
high end of this range, but is still not not very convenient to operate the fire, and
suitable for the firebox of a clean-burn- almost all the stored heat would be wasted
ing fire. during unoccupied hours. For spaces used
• Clay building brick: 2000°F (1000°C) only to sleep in, consider a heated bed with
warm covers rather than full-space heating, (brasiers, beanbags, baked potatoes). See
to minimize firing time. For seldom-used www.chimneysweeponline.com for loads
spaces, many owners use lower-mass designs of detail on wood-fired space heaters, or
that offer quicker heat-up and cool-down. our booklet “Shelter” (E&E Wisner, www.
The rocket mass heater also operates ErnieAndErica.info/shop) for alternatives.
completely off-grid, with a human opera- • Fireplace design: Rumford fireplaces are
tor and natural draft instead of mechanical far more effective heaters, and more beau-
controls. tiful, than a modern or pioneer-style box
fireplace. Look for tapered throats, throat
Our design goals: or chimney shut-off dampers, and option-
• fuel efficient al glass or screens. See www.Rumford.
• clean com.
• off-grid ready = passive draft • Furnaces and boilers: Heaters designed to
• low embodied energy be hidden in the basement, outdoors, or
• renewable fuels a utility closet, and transfer heat through
• owner-operated and -maintained air or fluids for “central” heating such
A mass storage heater of any kind may as steam radiators, radiant floors, and
not be the best tool for other purposes, since forced-air heating. Less fuel efficient be-
it takes time and fuel for the thermal mass cause of heat losses in transmission, and
to come up to operating temperatures. For a tendency to overheat unused areas (like
other goals, consider: spare rooms or the ceiling). There’s no
denying the convenience of automation
• Cooking stoves: responsive, low-fuel, for institutions or large, sparsely occupied
short-fire cycles — look up “rocket stoves,” buildings like production greenhouses.
“the Good Stove” + India, solar cookers, See www.heaterhelp.org.
solar ovens. There are some good designs • Classical masonry heaters: All-masonry
at www.aprovecho.org heaters developed for traditional local
• Seldom-used or briefly-used spaces: par- needs: Mandarins’ k’ang stoves, Korean
lors, guest rooms, ski cabins, churches. ondol, Afghan tawakhenah, Turkish baths,
Consider passive solar design if possible; Roman hypocausts, central European tile
boost heat on demand with space heat- stoves (kachelofen), Slavic, Nordic de-
ers such as efficient Rumford fireplaces, signs both artistic and peasant vernacular.
small woodstoves, soapstone stoves, heat References: http://mha-net.org, David
lamps, or even personal people-warmers Lyle’s Book of Masonry Stoves.
Appendix 6:
Supplemental Practice Activities
M ost people learn to build earthen

masonry in a hands-on workshop, by
serving on someone else’s building crew, or
as a trade apprentice. Physical skills are best
learned by physical practice under expert
supervision. Any complex process gets eas-
ier with practice.
When we teach rocket mass heaters in
person, we generally include separate hands-
on activities designed to build skills. Not all
of these skills are necessary to master be-
fore building a heater, but they can be very
helpful. Here, we are offering a selection of
activities that may be useful warm-ups for
the skills described in this book.
Please note that we provide a separate
set of teacher’s notes for qualified workshop
leaders, and are not suggesting that readers
of this book should go out and begin teach-
ing with this guide. A lot of people who have
technical expertise, or have built one or two
heaters, become overconfident in their own
understanding. Please don’t leap out and
start teaching others too soon — often it’s
your fourth or sixth heater that teaches you
257
a big lesson. An inexperienced teacher can Fire Practice

put others at risk both in the workshop, and Safe Hearth
over the life of a heater. If you demonstrate Start by digging out a safe outdoor hearth
something and it doesn’t work, it can give (6´ diameter or larger space with leveled,
people a bad impression of these heaters, bare mineral soils — many gravel driveways
and may hurt the prospects for introducing work well, asphalt doesn’t). In this space you
working versions of these heaters in your have plenty of room to move around your
area. The authors are available for project projects and drop hot items safely.
design consultations and peer mentoring. Have two extinguishers within a mo-
ment’s reach, such as (at least) 5 gallons of
Fire Science Practice
water, a charged hose, a shovel and sand, or
A bonfire after dark demonstrates many a Type A or ABC fire extinguisher.
basic concepts. Food and social relaxation Check local fire regulations and weath-
are nice bonuses. er conditions before burning. Rain doesn’t
stop us if we have enough dry fuel, but we
will cancel any outdoor fire demonstration
if there are high winds or a burn ban.
Brick Stacking
Build several brick hearths. Try a flat hearth,
a fireback (straight wall), a box-like fire-
place, and/or a simplified Rumford (angled)
fireplace. Build a similar fire in each one
(the V-fire from our booklet Art of Fire is a
good, versatile option).
Walk around each fire with your hands
out; try to find the shape of the fire’s warmth
Fire triangle: Fuel, air, heat (the places where it is comfortable, not too
hot for safety). Observe the differences
Try putting out a fire by in smoke, fire efficiency, and radiant heat
depriving it of one of coming off the brick walls, around the fire,
these three things. above the fire.
Can you imagine If time allows, run the fireplaces about
situations in which all equally for a few hours — enough to warm
three elements might the bricks through. Compare their warmth
be present, yet fire dies shapes again.
or doesn’t start? Fire is
a chain reaction, not an Tea Stove Challenge
object. Place a pot of water of similar size and shape
in different relationships to the fire. Try to
Appendix 6: Supplemental Practice Activities 259
build a stove using bricks, dirt, and the fire-

wood itself to bring one liter of water to a
full boil quickly. (Our favorite stoves aver-
age about 6 minutes.)
Chimney Effect
With the fire relatively low, or struggling to
engage new fuel, hold a
metal stovepipe section
over the fire (using oven
mitts or large tongs). Try
the stovepipe vertically,
at a 30 degree angle, at a
45, horizontal. Listen for
draft. Compare the fire’s
action near the chimney
and away from its effects.
At what angle does the
chimney stop drawing?
How long does it take
a cold chimney to start
drawing?
Five-minute Fire
The 5-minute limit is designed to test your ability to rec- After the 5 minutes are up, stop. (Gather the group
ognize the natural fuels around you. It can be fun to do together, if applicable.) Try to light your fire(s) with one
it with larger groups as a way to share relevant knowl- match (or a shared lighter). Success is easy to spot: fires
edge. (If some people in the group are more outdoorsy that light right up with one match, a second or two of
than others, try assigning them in mixed teams, so that lighter time, or even a tiny coal from another fire.
nobody has to feel stupid.) Can the group light all the fires from only one
In any given setting, you will see certain people make match, by passing the fire along?
a beeline for a particular type of tree, bush, or lichen, Modify any unsuccessful fires; see how many types
or even for the woodshed or recycling bin, while others of fuel or layouts you can get to be successful when
wander around or base their guesses on experience in a properly combined and arranged.
completely different climate.
Take five minutes to gather dry fuel and tinder from
the local environment, and lay out a fire in a safe firepit.
Some Notes on Fuels

a piece of wood from your woodpile into 1˝-wide piec-
es, weigh them immediately, then dry them in an oven
for about two days (low baking temperatures below
250 °F, using fan if available). Weigh them again to find
the difference.
There are lots of other ways to evaluate fuel mois-
ture content, for example by watching cracks in the
logs, by feel, by how it is to split, or with a moisture
meter. The weight method is a good way to dou-
ble-check your other methods; you don’t need to do
it very often.
Look for fuels with good exposure to air, yet sheltered

from weather and ground damp. Living materials like
green moss and lichen tend to be very moist in most
climates. Compare cordwood that has been stored dif-
ferently, for different lengths of time, or that was split
before storage vs. split just prior to use. How does the
fuel behave while splitting — does it spring apart, or
shred and cling?
For an accurate fuel moisture percentage, compare
the fuel’s weight before and after artificial drying. Split
Skills Practice • Stack bricks level and plumb, with and

without mortar, and with a thin-set or
Skills to Learn Before/During clay slip. You can re-use bricks with clay
First Installation mortars, just soak off the clay afterward
• Masonry: Prepare, test, and use earthen (or hose it off). If using refractory mortars,
building materials like clay slip, clay-sta- practice with a few sacrificial bricks to
bilized perlite, mortar, cob, and plasters. learn water content, working times, and
(Practice projects might include a scale dimensional accuracy. Practice dry-laying
model of a stove or house, like a masonry (without mortar) the correct dimensions
dollhouse, or J-style outdoor cookstove.) of firebox, proportions of heat riser to
Work to a consistent finish dimension burn tunnel and feed. (Scale mock-ups;
(fieldstone, brick, plaster), including appro- feel with fingers to make sure feed is com-
priate pre-finish levels for plasters or tiles. pletely flush and smooth.)
The “Thermosiphon” Effect

Many people find it puzzling, amazing, or seemingly equally between the two models, for example, if they
impossible that we can make a fire burn sideways and are already warm from other activities.
upside down. The following exercises help you to ex- A brick-and-dirt mock-up comparison will not
plore this effect first hand. necessarily give accurate performance results for a
With bricks and a ready supply of dry kindling, well-built installation. For example, metal fireboxes or
build a mock-up rocket heater core. Build one model noninsulated heat risers may work OK for a 20-minute
that fits the firebox dimensions given in Chapter 4. outdoor test, but are almost guaranteed to fail within
Think over any questions you might have about pro- their first year of indoor use. (A noninsulated heat riser
portions, heights, limits to length or size, or the effects generally stops drafting about 40 minutes into the fire
of other changes in design. Can these ideas be tested when hooked up to a full-mass heater.)
easily? This mock-up process is just to get practice stack-
Build two side-by-side mock-ups to test one of ing brick to internal dimensions, and to understand
these ideas, like what happens with a larger heat riser. possible effects of proposed changes by exaggerating
Or a longer burn tunnel. Exaggerate the difference to them while holding other factors roughly equal.
compare the results. Clean burn and steady draft are the desired results
You want to have a control example. So test only (no smoke out of either end). Watch for general effects
one difference for each pair of mock-ups; it can be diffi- that make the fire burn cleaner or smokier, draw faster
cult to interpret the results when two or more changes or more sluggishly, or stop the stove from working as
are made simultaneously. For a fair comparison, both intended. Try comparing different sizes, heights, leaky
examples should be fired using similar fuels and pre- vs. mortar-sealed, insulation vs. thermal mass, size of
heated for similar amounts of time — share hot bricks firewood, etc.
• Pipe and ducting: Use crimpers, tinsnips, (A pocket rocket to burn paint off the
grinder or other cutting equipment, with metal barrel(s) is good metal-cutting prac-
appropriate safety gear and spark-safe tice. If you find you enjoy working with
settings. (Consider making a coffee-can brick far more than metal, and can get
barbecue starter to practice with tools — airtight mortar joins consistently, consider
cut it from a big steel can; crimp it just building a brick manifold instead.)
for fun; tap or pre-drill holes for a han- • Level and plumb: Check vertical align-
dle.) With clean hands, practice setting ment of the chimney pipe and barrel with
adjustable pipe elbows to any desired a plumb line or level. (Practice bringing
measurement: 90°, 60°, 45°, 30°. the barrel to level using shims under it.
• Metal and masonry skills for manifold/ Level a bed of sand for your firepit, re-
barrel seals: cutting, fitting, placing insula- membering to check diagonals. Check
tion, expansion joints, cobbing, plastering. your level by swapping ends — is your
level actually level? Watch out for mud wrists); develop good tool care and site or-
and grit stuck to the bottom.) ganization; always follow tool manuals and
safe positioning. Start with slow and correct
Personal Training movements, and smaller loads, and work
In learning new physical skills, give your- up: a wheelbarrow full of masonry is a LOT
self the best conditions for success. Food, of weight!
water, adequate rest and stretching, good Like riding a bicycle, most physical skills
work conditions, and a good chunk of fo- are tough to learn but easy to maintain once
cused time. If you can work directly with learned. Learning movements and postures
an experienced trainer, or with good video correctly is as important as knowing the the-
documentation, you can avoid a lot of wast- ory. Once the basic skills become automatic,
ed effort. complex tasks become much easier.
The point of practicing is to develop Sports trainers often drill only one new
habits you can rely on when you get to the skill per 4-hour training period, to let play-
more complicated parts. Begin as you mean ers assimilate the lesson into long-term
to go on: practice safe body movements physical memory. (Other, familiar skills can
(lift with legs not back, use arms more than still be practiced during this period without
interrupting the process.) Make sure to end
on a correct performance of the new skill.
You can also rehearse the correct process in
your mind between practice sessions.
Barrel Decoration
Many readers wonder if we can make the
barrel more beautiful or substitute a bet-
ter-looking bell. Of course there are many
ways to change the barrel, but some chang-
es work better than others. We know that
certain changes, like wrapping insulation
around the barrel, will cause major prob-
lems with the heater’s draft performance.
We want attractive options with few or no
side effects to hurt performance.
The following pages show the Barrel
Deco Design Challenge, a course handout
developed for a metal-working class. These
pages show some examples and ideas for
barrel decoration, and go over important
functional and safety requirements to keep
the heater working as intended. Readers
who like metal work may also be interested

in making custom components or accesso-
ries, such as fireplace tools.
Barrel dimensions:
55-gallon drums (200 L) are a volume stan-
dard, but vary slightly in height/diameter.
Many foodgrade barrels are 23⁵⁄₈˝ diameter
and 34½˝ tall (at outside top rim).
Barrel operating temperatures for the
top third of the barrel reach 400–800°F; the
bottom third rarely reaches 300 °F. Center
top surface is convenient for simmering and
frying; mostly it runs well under 1000°F.
Occasionally shows dull red spot or ring for
some designs (1200°F?).
Rocket Mass Heater Barrel Design

The barrel of a rocket mass heater serves to
seal in and redirect exhaust gases, and to
shed heat. A weathered black steel cylinder
radiates heat into a room very effectively
and evenly. This heat output is also a per-
formance requirement: the heat lost by the
barrel helps maintain downward exhaust
flow for proper draft.
If we want a betterlooking object to serve • big metal garbage cans with galvanization
these functions, what might we use? removed. All must be stripped of paint,
One option is to substitute a better galvanization, and/or insulation before in-
barrel: stalling. We have no reports whether the
glass enamel coating remains intact on the
• 55-gallon shipping barrels (food or fuel inside of water heaters.
grade)
To beautify existing barrels, we have tried:
• 35-gallon or 120lb grease cans (Jiffy Lube
trash cans) for smaller systems; selection What worked:
of styles • Coating the barrel with earthen plaster or
• Hot water heater tanks (with insulation lime plaster up to one third of the surface.
and innards removed) Covering the whole barrel can cause over-
• custom-welded stainless or mild steel heating and draft problems.
cylinders • Painting the barrel with high temperature
• large square steel containers cooking oil, stove enamels or engine block
paints (rated 1200°F or higher), mineral (perlite, rock wool, structures that trap air
paints like clay or lime (unrated pigments without enough vents).
may change color). • Wrapping or mounting cement board (tile
• Pizza stones, soapstone, marble, ceramic backer) or gypsum board within 3˝ of the
tile, earthen plasters/clay-sand grouts di- barrel did NOT work. These materials
rectly on top of the barrels: no problems. offgassed, charred, cracked, and decom-
DO NOT USE SLATE in direct contact posed. Air gaps top and bottom might
with top parts of barrel, as trapped steam have helped; but we also would look into
may cause spalling or explosion. higher-temperature board products spe-
• Wrapping or suspending “a metal heat cifically designed for heat shielding on/
shield ” around the barrel, with air gap. near woodstoves or hearths (not just for
This works really well and we’d like to try wall-mounted heat shielding).
more styles. Standard heat shielding uses • Still working on a “nonmetal” option. Brick
a 1˝ gap behind the sheet, plus 12˝ gaps “bells” don’t draft this way, but true mason-
above and below for natural convection. ry heaters are all brick and tile (see Swedish
contraflow, Finnish, and Russian fireplaces).
What didn’t work:
• Insulative materials around the barrel al- We’ve had some luck with 20–24˝ terra-
most always cause major draft problems cotta chimney liners as a barrel substitute,
but have not yet created a good capping Design Constraints:

slab blast shield for the top. Mortar seals The barrel or replacement must stay sealed,
are problematic and prone to cracking over tolerate high temperatures, and shed heat.
repeated firing cycles; double layers of tile
1) Air seals: Avoid piercing the barrel. Welds
may be needed to cover joints.
or bolts may cause stress cracking; con-
We’d be interested in “tile stove”
sider assymetrical expansion with hot/
components with a box-like or fin-like heat-
cool cycling. Use symmetry, expansion
shedding structure, but have not yet tried
joints, slots vs. holes.
them. Blast shield for top of barrel (on in-
side) to reduce warping? 2) Hot: Think stone, metal, ceramic tile,
My personal favorite design proposal is a mineral grouts (clay or lime), paints rated
metal “spider” that would rest over the top for 1200+°F. No acrylic, latex, Portland
of the barrel and support decorative stuff cement, or unrated goop (even if it says
hanging down by the sides. “high heat”).
A short version could just be a “cap” or 3) Shed heat: Convection (air gaps), radi-
“doily”. Brass filigree lacework; or turn a ant heat, conduction. No insulation or
fluted garbage can into a faux Grecian col- trapped air.
umn with a faux capital and hi-temp paint 4) Maintenance access: Allow removal ei-
faux marbling. (Enough faux faux youx?) ther of the entire barrel (access at bottom
4˝), or the barrel’s lid from the top.
5) Home safety: Make designs robust enough
for “normal” use: toddlers, parties, spills,
pets, step ladders, and winter storm power
failures.
Bonus Features:
A long version of this “curtain wall” sys- • Cooking? (center top surface for simmer-
tem could extend nearly all the way down ing, top as griddle...)
the sides (or all the way down except for a • Oven? (insulated dome over top?)
hidden air gap in back). This would create • Heat shielding for wall sides / back? (reduce
a support framework for any heat tolerant inconvenient clearances to combustibles)
surface including stone slab, punched tin, • Extra exposed barrel in front/on room
tile, filigree work, enamel work, or other at- side?
tractive materials. • Adjustable room heat? Doors/fans to con-
Note that both my examples may still trol radiant and convective heat delivery?
not go with that particular sofa. Directional heat settings? (Use any elec-
tricity as a bonus not a “fix” be off-grid
Design Goal: ready.)
Barrel or bell that is elegant enough for a • Safe drying racks/hooks? Mittens, kindl
fine-homes magazine, safe, and functional. ing ...
• Low maintenance? Cleans with ordinary (Hands or a tin can works fine, but a han-
tools/vacuumtips? Durable? (Problems dle seems more elegant). It could work like a
unlikely, easily detected, fixable?) soup ladle or minibackhoe, to drag and then
• Matches an existing room: tile backsplash, scoop up ash.
brick hearth, copper kettles.... Narrow tongs (like for barbecue grills,
• Allows redecorating (color changes, resur- but with longer fireproof ends and shorter
facing, uncut standard-sized tiles or bricks) combustible handles) are very useful. Like
• Cosy fireside comforts... watch the fire? giant tweezers. Gentle spring is excellent.
Safe/comfy to lean on? Reheat beanbags
Super Bonus: Manifold
or hot water bottles? Cup holders?
(alternative metal crafting project):
Rocket Accessory Projects Use a cut off barrel, or improve on it:
for Metal Workers
• 16˝ to 18˝ height
Fireplace Tools: S-shovel • ports in back/side to fit 8˝ ID stovepipe
For our J-shaped firebox, we could use an (two interchangeable ports? exhaust pipe,
ash scoop with a specially shaped handle. cleanout)
• rectangular or stepped cutout (bent flang-

es?) to fit over brick firebox, insulation,
and mortar at least 10˝ tall x 13˝ wide, see
above.
• improved clamping or gasket seating
fitting: we use a band clamp and sticky-
backed gasket.
Make a groove so barrel rests on the
gasket? Sturdy, airtight interior flange to
resist side impacts, yet remain removable?
Visit our web page to share examples and
design ideas: http://www.ErnieAndErica.
info
Online Resources Evans, Ianto, Linda Smiley, Michael Smith,

Cob Cottage Company in Oregon (www. Deanne Bednar. The Hand-Sculpted House,
cobcottage.com) 2002, Chelsea Green Publishing Company,
Graeme North in NZ (www.ecodesign.co. Burlington VT.
nz) Evans, Ianto and Leslie Jackson. Rocket Mass
Mike Wye in the UK (www.mikewye.co. uk) Heaters, 2006 and 2014, Cob Cottage
Sweep’s Library, http://www.Online Chimney Company, www.rocketstoves.com.
Sweep.com, www.permies. com/ forums Lyle, David. The Book of Masonry Stoves,
YouTube videos — look for finished proj- 1998, Chelsea Green Publishing,
ects and 1-year-updates Burlington VT.
Paul Wheaton, www.richsoil.com/rocket- Orton, Vrest. The Forgotten Art of Building a
stove-mass-heater.jsp, includes videos Good Fireplace. Yankee Magazine, 1969
Ernie and Erica Wisner: plans, books, vid- Ritter, Erica. The Ultimate Girls’ Guide to
eos, articles, project photo albums, etc.: Science, 1993, Beyond Words Publishing,
www.ErnieAndErica.info, www.ErnieAnd Hillsboro OR.
Erica.blogspot.com Wisner, E.K. (Wisner, Ernie and Erica) The
Art of Fire, 2013. Self-published, http://
Fireside References www.ErnieAndErica.info
(books with other good info Young, Jon, Ellen Haas, and Evan McGown.
or projects) Coyote’s Guide to Connecting with Nature,
Dunn, Kevin M. Caveman Chemistry, 2003, 2010, Owlink Media Corporation,
Universal Publishers, www.Caveman Shelton WA.
Chemistry.com
Index
Page numbers in italics indicate illustrations. bell, 4

clearances, 64–65
A decoration, 133, 262–266
aggregates, for cob, 186 design errors, 174–175
air supply. See outside air intake example construction, 82–84
air-to-fuel ratio, 246 finishing, 90, 172
aliz paint, 196 options, 62
Alliance of Masonry Heater and Oven removing paint, 83
Professionals, 153 requirements, 8–9
Annex 6˝ example, 40, 41–42, 42 shielding, 156–157
area calculations, 249–250 bench. See heat-exchange bench
The Art of Fire (Wisner), 21, 241 bentonite clays, 185
as-built drawings, 106 Bobcat machines, 60
ash boilers, 103, 164–165
buildup, 111, 111 Bonny 8˝ example, 43, 44–45, 44, 45
cleaning, 119–121, 122, 148, 245–246 The Book of Masonry Stoves (Lyle), 28, 138,
ASTM (American Society for Testing and 180
Materials), 140 brick facades, 196
ASTM 2778, 152 bricks. See firebrick
ASTM E-1602, 152, 156–160 bridge
Audel Masons and Builders Library, 189 brick inspection, 124
example construction, 78–79
B requirements, 7–8
Barker, Tim, 213, 214 BS-EN standards, 153
barrel. See bell BTUs (British thermal units), definition, 226
basements, 169 building codes
base pad, example installation, 75–76, 76 for chimneys, 70
batch box example, 221–223 clearances, 64, 65
269
design change requirements, 153–154 troubleshooting, 130–132, 133–135

for masonry heaters, 140–141 use of existing, 170, 207–208
in Portland, Oregon, 199–203 cladding. See casing
for rocket mass heaters, 152–161 clay, 185–186. See also earthen masonry
burnished finish, 195 clay paint, 196
burn tunnel, 4 clay-sand mortar, recipe, 125, 188–189
dimensions based on brick size, 250 clay slip
inspection, 124 brick laying method, 77, 78–79
requirements, 6–7, 145 preparation, 76–77
bypass dampers, 116–117, 116 recipe, 187–188
clay-stabilized perlite, 81, 188
C cleanouts
Cabin 8˝ example chimney, 16
design, 46, 47 clearances, 66
heat delivery calculations, 149 covers, 94–95
heat storage, 152 definition, 105
calculations in example construction, 86–87
chimney draft, 248 in heat exchanger, 12
heat delivery, 149 locations, 4, 144
heat loss, 225–233 in manifold, 10
RMH dimensions, 248–252 cleanup, site, 67
carbon monoxide exposure, 135, 139 clearances
casing, 14–15, 90–93 code requirements, 156–157
See also heat exchanger; thermal mass design changes, 171–172
cement mixers, 60 for example installation, 64–66, 64
cements, 181–183, 193–194 walls, 170
ceramic-fiber blanket, 81 coal, 220–221
channel. See heat-exchange channel cob
chimneys application, 194–195
clearances, 66 batch consistency testing, 192
code requirements, 159 finishing, 90–91, 195–197
design, 29, 146–147, 171 for heat-exchange benches, 87, 88–89
design for efficiency, 236–239 as insulation, 81
draft calculation, 248 materials for, 184–187
example construction, 70 methods, 183–184
laminar flow, 247 mixing, 60
location of exit, 4 recipe, 191
maintenance, 242–243 test bricks, 190–191
orientation of, 70–71, 70, 71 The Cobber’s Companion (Smith), 183
priming, 116 codes. See building codes
requirements, 15–16 cold starts, methods, 115–117
through-roof installation, 72–74, 72, 73, combustion unit
238 about, 2, 4
through-wall installation, 205–207, components and requirements, 4, 5–10,
238–239 105
Index 271
definition, 105 documentation

design constraints, 142–143 access points, 121
example construction, 75–87, 99 of construction, 107–109
example construction (6˝ alternative), performance log, 118, 120
96, 98 preliminary inspection, 110
measurements, 75 downdraft bell. See bell
role of, 4–5 draft
conduction, 27, 86, 148 control of, 147–148
construction effect of CSA, 5, 251–252
considerations, 29–34 testing, 111
documentation, 107–109 types of, 249
errors in design, 150–151 drawings, as-built, 106
contraflow bell. See bell ducting. See heat-exchange channel
convection, 26, 26, 246–247 dung, 193
cooking, 24, 165
cooling degree days (CDD), 227 E
core, 13–14 earthen masonry
See also heat exchanger; thermal mass advantages of, 90, 168–169, 180–182
cottage, heater example, 46, 47, 48, 49 finishing, 195–197
crack repair, 126–127 historical use of, 179–180
creosote, 244 maximum temperatures, 254
cross-sectional area (CSA) refinishing, 128–130
bell requirements, 9 repairs, 124–127
consistency in, 5 test-firing, 89
design constraints, 142–143 earthen plasters, recipe, 192–193
in heat exchanger, 11–12 egg tempera, 197
manifold, 9 8˝ ID system, combustion unit measure-
pipe diameter and, 106, 251–252 ments, 142–143
See also example construction
D Ely 8˝ example, 214, 215
dampers, 139 emergency shutdown, 113
Daybed 6˝ example, 48, 49, 152 energy efficiency
dead men, 94, 94, 195 calculations, 33
design improvements to, 31, 233–235
alterations to, 133, 171 EPA (Environmental Protection Agency),
changes by building officials, 153–154 140, 152, 160
code-required constraints, 154–156 Europe, building standards, 153
common errors, 150–151 Evans, Ianto, 71, 83, 101, 140, 180, 183,
CSA, 142–143 211, 243
examples of, 39–58 example construction
lifestyle and, 36–37 base pad, 75–76, 76
location and, 25, 27–29 bell and manifold, 64–65, 82–84
room use, 31–34 brick layout, 97, 99
separating components, 170 bridge, 78–79
Dezettel, Louis M., 189 chimney, 66, 70
cleanouts, 66, 86–87 fire

clearances, 64 air-to-fuel ratio, 246
combustion unit, 75, 75, 99, 99 characteristics of, 241
finishing, 90–95 chemistry, 243–244
firebox, 65, 76–79, 77, 78 hazards, 242–243
foundation, 69–70, 69 minimizing smoke, 244–246
heat-exchange bench, 65–66, 88–89 practice activities, 258–259
heat-exchange channel, 85–86, 85 firebox
heat riser, 78, 78, 79–80, 79, 96 clearances, 65
insulation, 80–81, 80 design changes, 167
location, 67 design errors, 173
materials, 60, 62–63 dimensions based on brick size, 250
6˝ alternative, 96, 96, 98 example construction, 76–79, 77, 78, 97
specifications, 59–60, 63 installation, 166
test-firing, 89–90 materials for, 169, 182–183
thermal mass, 87–89 mock-up, 68
examples firebrick
Annex 6˝, 40, 41–42, 42 base pad assembly, 75–76, 76
batch box, 221–223 burn tunnel dimensions based on size,
Bonny 8˝, 43, 44–45, 44, 45 250
Cabin 8˝, 46, 47, 149, 152 firebox assembly, 76–79, 77, 78
Daybed 6˝, 48, 49, 152 heat riser assembly, 79–80, 79
Ely 8˝, 214, 215 mortar and, 76
Greenhouse 8˝, 55, 56–58, 56, 57, 58 replacement in bridge, 7–8
Mediterranean 6˝, 50, 51, 52 fire starting
mosquito heater, 223–224 cold start methods, 115–117
Phoenix 8˝, 53, 54 routine starts, 109–113, 111
Zaytuna Farm water heater, 213–214, 213 troubleshooting, 130–132
exit chimneys. See chimneys firewood. See wood
expansion joints floors
cracks, 127 building support for heater, 69–70, 69
insulation as, 148 choosing location, 169–170
for metal manifold, 85 wood, 34, 44–45, 170
test-firing, 94–95 flues, 207
use of, 35 footings, 30, 34, 69
fossil fuels, 220–221
F foundations, 29–31, 30, 69–70
fabrics freeze protection, 29
for heat-exchange benches, 15 fuel, 117–119, 218–222
inspection, 122–124 See also wood
maximum temperatures, 254 fuel feed, 4
fans, 117, 147 horizontal feed, 173
fiberglass insulation, 81 measurements, 145
fibers for cob, 186–187 requirements, 6
finishing, of earthen masonry, 195–197 furnaces, 103, 164–165
Index 273
G heat riser, 4
gas flow, cross-sectional area, 144–145 design errors, 174
Greenhouse 8˝ example, 55, 56–58, 56, 57, 58 example construction, 78–80, 78, 79, 96
guest shed, heater example, 48, 49 gap measurements, 250
insulation, 80–81, 148, 173–174
H requirements, 8, 145
The Hand-Sculpted House (Evans, Smith, heat storage capacity, 151–152
Smiley), 71, 180, 183 heat transfer, 26–27
hardeners, 193–194 Holmes, Lasse, 221
hearth, 65, 157–158, 242 home energy checklist, 31
heat delivery calculations, 149 homes, energy efficient design, 233–236
heaters horizontal exit chimneys, 205–207, 238–239
choices in, 36–37 hot water heating, 24, 213–214
definition, 103 human comfort temperatures, 252–253
energy calculations, 33
options, 23, 233–235 I
portable, 214, 215, 216–218 infiltration, heat loss calculations, 230–231
See also rocket mass heaters inspections
heat-exchange bench bridge brick, 124
clearances, 65–66 masonry surfaces, 122
example construction, 65–66, 88–89 routine, 109–111
surfaces, 87–88 upholstery, 122–124
See also heat exchanger; thermal mass insulating brick, for heat riser, 81
heat-exchange channel insulation
about, 13, 106 about, 11
code requirements, 158 in heat riser, 8, 80–81, 80, 148
design, 143, 146–147, 147 materials for, 86, 148
diameter effect on CSA, 251–252 maximum temperatures, 254
in example construction, 85–86, 85 R-value estimates, 228–230
requirements, 11–12 International Building Code B1002, 152
texture in, 144 International Residential Code (IRC) R1002,
heat exchanger 152, 155–156, 208
clearances, 69
components, 3, 11–15, 13, 105 J
definition, 105 Jackson, Leslie, 83, 101, 211, 243
design errors, 175–177 J-style fireboxes
function, 10–11 components, 5
gap measurements, 250–251 requirements, 5–6
mock-up, 68 as thermosiphon, 247–248
See also heat-exchange channel;
thermal mass K
heating degree days (HDD), 227 kilowatt hours, definition, 226
heating methods, 23, 233–235
heat loss, calculations, 225–233 L
heat production, 163–164 laminar flow, 247
lava rock, 81 metal trim, 94–95

Lawton, Geoff, 213 metric dimensions
lifestyle, effect on heater choice, 36–37 150 mm example, 98
lime paint, 197 200 mm example, 100
lining material milk paint, 196–197
for firebox, 5 mock-ups, 68
for heat riser, 8 Mongolia, 220
location mortar, 76–77, 189
basements, 169 mosaic work, for thermal mass finishing,
choosing location, 25, 27–29 92–93
for example installation, 66–67 mosquito heater, 223–224
Ludwig, Art, 234 multi-story house, heater example, 43,
Lyle, David, 28, 138, 180, 181 44–45, 44, 45
Myrtle Library, Coquille, Oregon, 183
M
maintenance N
ash cleanout, 119–121 North American Masonry Heater
bridge, 124 Association, 138, 153
inspections, 122–124
masonry repairs, 124–127 O
refinishing, 128–130 occasional-use spaces, 22
make-up air. See outside air intake 150 mm (6˝) example dimensions, 98
manifold operation
design errors, 175 cautions, 101–102
example construction, 81–86, 82 fuel addition, 112
gap measurements, 250–251 routine, 109–113, 111
requirements, 9–10 smoke issues, 130–132
using barrel, 266–267 Oregon Cob method, 183–184
masonry outside air intake
maximum temperatures, 254 code requirements, 159–160
skills practice, 260–261 design requirements, 12
masonry chimneys, existing, 170, 207–208 heat loss calculations, 230–231
masonry heaters problems of, 34, 173, 208–209
building codes, 140–141 prototype, 210–211
designs, 138–139
temperatures, 252–253 P
use of earthen masonry, 179–180 paints, 128, 196–197
masonry surfaces, inspection, 120–121 P-channel metal air intake, 124
materials pellet fuel, 218–220
for example construction, 60, 62–63 performance log, 119, 120
insulation properties, 86 perlite, 81
types of, 35 perlite, clay-stabilized, 81, 188
Mediterranean 6˝ example, 50, 51, 52 permits. See building codes
metakaolin, 186 petroleum fuel, 220–221
metals, maximum temperatures, 254 Phoenix 8˝ example, 53, 54
Index 275
pipes. See heat-exchange channel S

placement of heater, 25, 27–29 safety, 164, 171–172
plasters sand, 186
finishing, 90–91, 128–130 seat test, 34
finishing cob, 195 shutdowns, 113
recipe, 192–193 Simple Shelter (Wisner), 236
pocket rockets, 83 sites
portable heaters, 214, 215, 216–218 design considerations, 25
portable structures, 24 laying out system, 68
Portland, Oregon, building code, 199–203 preparation, 67
Portland cement, 35, 182 6˝ example
pumice, 81 combustion unit layout, 98
dimensions, 96, 96
R size, 165, 221–224
radiant heat, 26–27, 26, 28 Smiley, Linda, 71, 180, 183
refractory cements, 35, 181–183, 254 Smith, Michael G., 71, 180, 183
refractory insulation, installation, 80–81 smoke
refractory masonry, test-firing, 89 cause of, 243
refractory materials, definition, 180 clean fire production, 244–246
refractory mortars, brick laying method, issues, 130–132, 133–135, 242
77–79 S-shovels, 266, 267
removal of heater, 132 stone, for thermal mass finishing, 91–92
rental apartment, heater example, 40, 41–42, stoves, definition, 103
42 straw, 186–187
resources, 135–136, 197–198, 268 straw-cob, for insulation, 81
Rocket Mass Heaters (Evans and Jackson), 83, structural cob, 190–192
101, 211, 243 stucco, 197
rocket mass heaters (RMHs) system size, CSA and, 106
about, 1–2
BTU production, 32 T
building codes, 152–161 temperatures
calculations, 248–252 of casing, 15
design assumptions, 103–105 chimney, 16
design considerations, 16–17 combustion unit, 4–5
design goals, 254–255 commonly used standards, 252–254
efficiency of, 163–164 design and, 146
location of, 27–29 heat riser, 8
parts of, 2, 3, 104 safety and, 114
pros and cons, 16–24 test-firing
temperatures, 253–254 after manifold construction, 85
rock-wool insulation, for heat riser, 81 with cob, 95
roof, chimney installation, 72–74, 73 procedure, 89–90
rototillers, 60 thermal cob
rules, types of, 137–138 definition, 190
See also building codes recipe, 125, 191–192
thermal expansion, 127 veneers. See casing

thermal mass ventilation, 209, 230
about, 13, 107 vermiculite, for heat riser, 81
alternatives, 212–218 volume calculations, 249–250
design changes, 168, 172
in example construction, 87–89, 87 W
heat storage, 151–152, 167–168 warm climates, heater example, 50, 51
portable, 214, 215 water
requirements, 12–14 heating by RMH, 24, 213–214
test-firing, 89–90 as thermal mass, 212
troubleshooting, 133 weather
See also heat exchanger chimney design and, 146
thermosiphons, 5–6, 165–166, 247–248, fire starting and, 117
261 operation problems and, 133
therms, definition, 226 weight loads of foundations, 30–31
through-roof chimney installation, 72–74, Wheaton, Paul, 216
72, 73, 238 Wheaton Labs, 210–211
through-wall chimney installation, 205–207, whitewash, 197
238–239 wing walls, 158
tile, for thermal mass finishing, 91, 92–93, wood
195–196 burn temperatures, 253
tiny homes, 235 drying, 21, 242, 244–245
tongs, 266, 267 heat delivery calculations, 149
tools, 60, 61, 266, 267 moisture content, 260
Torcellini, Rob, 218–220 recommended, 2, 117–119
tractors, 60 storage, 241
trim, 93–95 trim, 195
Truovo, Francesco, 249 wood floors
turbulence, 247 building on, 34, 170
200 mm (8˝) example dimensions, 100 in heater example, 44–45
woodstoves, 244, 246, 253
U wood trim, 93–94
unit masonry, 87–88, 196
upholstery. See fabrics Z
U-trap function, 246 Zaytuna Farm, 213–214
zone efficiency, 27–28
V
van den Berg, Peter, 124, 161, 221–223, 247
vapor barriers, 197
About the Authors
E rica Wisner is a skilled educator and

project coordinator, with over 25 years’
experience building teamwork and facili-
tating hands-on learning. She loves making
things from scratch — anything from blue-
berry scones to the oven they were baked
in. Erica is the author of The Ultimate Girls’
Guide to Science and The Art of Fire and she
has also created instructional materials and
rocket mass heater resources for the Oregon
Museum of Science and Industry, The City
Repair Project, Handprint Press, and others.
Together with her husband Ernie, she has
built over 700 super-efficient, clean-burning
masonry stoves and led over 50 workshops natural building, hydraulics, and plumb- Author photo
across North America. ing maintenance. Extreme conditions and © 2009 by
Ernie Wisner is a jack of all trades — his high-risk work focused Ernie’s attention on Kacy Ritter.
rich and varied background includes fishing survival skills and emergency preparedness.
and maritime work, firefighting, botany,
277
A Guide to Responsible Digital Reading
Most readers understand that buying a book printed on 100% recycled, ancient-
forest friendly paper is a more environmentally responsible choice than buying
one printed on paper made from virgin timber or old-growth forests. In the same
way, the choices we make about our electronic reading devices can help minimize
the environmental impact of our e-reading.
Issues and Resources
Before your next electronic purchase, find out which companies have the best
ratings in terms of environmental and social responsibility. Have the human rights
of workers been respected in the manufacture of your device or in the sourcing of
raw materials? What are the environmental standards of the countries where your
electronics or their components are produced? Are the minerals used in your
smartphone, tablet or e-reader conflict-free? Here are some resources to help you
learn more:
 The Greenpeace Guide to Greener Electronics

 Conflict Minerals: Raise Hope for the Congo
 Slavery Footprint
Recycle Old Electronics Responsibly
According to the United Nations Environment Programme some 20 to 50 million

metric tonnes of e-waste are generated worldwide every year, comprising more
than 5% of all municipal solid waste. Toxic chemicals in electronics, such as lead,
cadium and mercury, can leach into the land over time or can be released into the
atmosphere, impacting nearby communities and the environment. The links below
will help you to recycle your electronic devices responsibly.
 Electronics Take Back

 Canada - Recycle My Electronics
 United States - E-cycling central
Of course, the greenest option is to keep your device going as long as possible. If
you decide to upgrade, please give some thought to passing your old one along for
someone else to use.
If you have enjoyed this book, you might also enjoy other
BOOKS TO BUILD A NEW SOCIETY

Our books provide positive solutions for people who
want to make a difference. We specialize in:
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95  HOME / SUSTAINABLE BUILDING

the rocket mass heater

rocket mass heater

Erica & Ernie Wisner

An advanced companion to Rocket Mass Heaters: Superefficient Wood Stoves

Drawing on the centuries-old tradition of masonry stoves and heaters,

Biomass energy is sensible when used super-efficiently and locally — which

Paperback ISBN: 0-978-86571-823-4

Acknowledgments and Background ............................................... vii

H eating and cooling represents 30%

Rocket Mass Heater Overview and Terms

A rocket mass heater is a heavy, slow-

Anatomy of a Rocket Mass Heater

Front cutaway view: Shows manifold (and exit chimney,

Combustion Unit cleanly — there would be extreme danger of

secondary seal is provided by wet-formed structurally sound through decades of use,

serve as a dividing wall to warm three or Learning Curves Can Be Steep

Comparing Other Heating Options

Portable Structures and We have considered some camper and

General Design Considerations

Site-specific Design • selected with cost in mind: near an existing

R ocket mass heaters are almost always

Heat Transfer air currents at the floor, or negative pressure

Conduction is heat transferred in direct contact;

end, kitchen appliances produce their own Radiant Heat

Home Energy Checklist

• supported on suitable foundations, with • cost-effective, offering the best long-term

T he following examples show how

Annex 6” Heater photo © 2009 by Kacy Ritter.

Annex 6˝: The attached bedroom with its suspend-

Cabin 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Daybed 6˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Daybed 6˝: Bypass Damper

Ellie the Elephant Heater: finished bench photo by project owner.

Mediterranean 8˝: Warm Climates

White heater with

Mediterranean 6˝: building’s back rooms had been added later,

Phoenix 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Phoenix 8˝: Masonry Bench Adding weight to any of the various

Greenhouse 8˝ Rocket Mass Heater

Option 2: Wood or hardiboard • Heat shield or replace nearby combustibles

Step-by-Step Construction Example

T he first step in any installation

ful rocket mass heater project. If you’ve

Wood Work (Alterations):

• Mortars: Clay slip (or thin-set refractory Earthen Masonry:

ing screened chimney cap

Bits and Pieces: • Firebox dimensions: 16˝ feed tube height;

demonstration project serves as a warm di-

Preparing Foundations Over an

1) Determine heater placement and size.

Chimney Methods: Up or Sideways?

3 feet (914 mm) above the highest point where the

Installing a Through-roof Kit

1. Measure your roof slope and the dis-

Combustion Unit may be 24³⁄₈˝ instead of 24.˝) Alterations

wire mesh screen (½˝ or ¼˝ hardware cloth

Working the Sunwheel (general method for working to inside dimensions):

Level the whole stack, then take a break Insulation

95 HOME / SUSTAINABLE BUILDING

Duct size:___ Foundations:

width: _ length/height*: ____

What depth of ash do we leave in the firebox?_ ______________________________________

Bottom: A mediterranean-climate design from Israel, as built

Introduction: Types of Rules and effects of moisture on all these materi