Knitting: A Method by Which Yarn Is Manipulated To Create A Textile or Fabric
Knitting: A Method by Which Yarn Is Manipulated To Create A Textile or Fabric
Knitting: A Method by Which Yarn Is Manipulated To Create A Textile or Fabric
Weaving - threads are always straight, running parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft
threads).
Knitting - yarn follows a meandering path, forming symmetric loops symmetrically above and below the
mean path of the yarn.
These meandering loops can be easily stretched in different directions giving knit fabrics much more
elasticity than woven fabrics.
Was initially developed for garments that must be elastic or stretch in response to the wearer's motions,
such as socks and hosiery.
Stretch along one or other of a related pair of They are often more form-fitting than woven
directions that lie roughly diagonally between garments, their elasticity allows them to
the warp and the weft, while contracting in the contour to the body's outline more closely; by
other direction of the pair (and are not very contrast, curvature is introduced into most
elastic, unless they are woven from stretchable woven garments only with sewn darts, flares,
material such as spandex. gussets and gores, the seams of which lower
the elasticity of the woven fabric still further.
HAND KNITTING
HAND KNITTING NEEDLES
A knitting needle or knitting pin is a tool in hand-knitting to produce knitted fabrics. They generally
have a long shaft and taper at their end, but they are not nearly as sharp as sewing needles. Their
purpose is two-fold.
The long shaft holds the active (unsecured) stitches of the fabric, to prevent them from unravelling,
whereas the tapered ends are used to form new stitches
A new stitch is formed by inserting the tapered end through an active stitch, catching a loop (also
called a bight) of fresh yarn and drawing it through the stitch; this secures the initial stitch and forms
a new active stitch in its place.
In specialized forms of knitting the needle may be passed between active stitches being held on
another needle, or indeed between/through inactive stitches that have been knit previously.
The size of a needle is described first by its diameter and secondly by its length.
The size of the new stitch is determined in large part by the diameter of the knitting needle used to
form it, because that affects the length of the yarn-loop drawn through the previous stitch. Thus,
large stitches can be made with large needles, whereas fine knitting requires fine needles.
The knitting needles being used in hand-knitting are of the same diameter; however, in uneven
knitting, needles of different sizes may be used. Larger stitches may also be made by wrapping the
yarn more than once around the needles with every stitch.
The length of a needle determines how many stitches it can hold at once; for example, very large
such as a shawl with hundreds of stitches might require a longer needle than a small such as a scarf
or bootie. Various sizing systems for needles are in common use.
HAND KNITTING PROCESS
With your hand, make a loop over the needle, keeping your right index finger inside the loop.
Make another loop with your left hand.
Pull the first loop over the second.
Tighten the resulting knot and begin again until you have all the stitches required.
HAND KNITTING NEEDLE TYPES
Slip the end of a ball of yarn between your thumb and index finger, pinching to anchor the yarn
as you knit. Then loop the yarn around your pinkie finger and weave it through your fingers.
FINGER KNITTING PROCESS
The peg is used in two ways: 1)to wrap the anchor yarn around it when you
cast on. 2)To wrap the working yarn around it after e-wrapping a row.
The technique is to wrap the yarn around the spool's pegs. The yarn is then
lifted over, thereby creating stitches. This process is repeated continually until
the project is complete.
It can be wound in a spiral to produce a mat or rug or, if a larger spool with
more nails is used, a sock or a hat could be made. Historically, spool knitting
has been used to make horse reins
Terms of Knitting
Open Loop: The open loop is one in which the loop forming yarns does not cross at the bottom of the loop.
Closed loop: In closed loop the legs cross at the bottom, so that the loop closing takes place.
Face loop: When the new loop emerges through the old loop from back to the face or front side
during loop formation, this kind of loop is known as the face loop or weft knit loop.
Back loop: If the new loop passes from the face side to the back side of the old loop during loop
formation, this kind of loop is called a back loop or weft purl loop.
Technical face: The side of the knit fabric that consists of all face or knit loops is called the technical
face of the knitted fabric.
Technical back: The side of the knit fabric having full of back or purl loops are called the technical back
of the fabric.
Needle loop: The upper part of the loop produced by the needle drawing the yarn is called the
needle loop.
Sinker loop: The lower part of the knit loop is technically referred as the sinker loop. It is the
connection of two legs belonging to the neighbouring stitches lying laterally.
Courses: The series of loops that are connected horizontally and continuously
is called courses.
Application
Automotive textiles- Automotive seats, vehicle interior.
Apparel textiles- Outerwear
Sportswear
Tricot KNITTING Process
Tricot knit
Tricot fabric has a unique zigzag weave that is textured on one side and
smooth on the other. This allows the fabric to be soft and also very sturdy
for activewear. Tricot fabrics are produced on a flatbed knitting machine,
as opposed to a circular knitting machine. They have an excellent wrinkle
and run resistance, as well as good drape-ability. Tricot is a warp-knit
fabric. This means it has continuous lengthwise columns of loops. Warp
knitting differs from weft knitting by having each needle loop its own
thread. The needles produce parallel rows of loops. These lengthwise loops
are what give this fabric a smooth surface on the face and a textured back.
This structure creates ribs on the front and crosswise ribs on the back. This
makes the tricot both soft and an incredibly durable knit structure.
tricots have a sturdy and enjoyable handle. Tricot fabrics can stand up to a
good level of day-to-day wear and tear during any activity. This makes it an
ideal fabric for close-fitting comfort stretch apparel, such as swimwear,
sportswear, lingerie, and even some outerwear types.
Raschel Warp Knitting Machine
initially latch needles were used .
More versatile – number of guide bars up to 16.
Suitable for outer wear and furnishing .
Any type of yarn can be used .
Fabric controlled by high take down tension .
Sinkers hold fabric only when the needles raise .
Fabric pulled at about 160 degree to needle . machines are made in coarser
gauges 24 to 64 ( gauge is defined as number of needles per two inch )
Machines are narrower and comparatively lower speed ( up to 2000 courses per
min )
Warp beams are positioned at the top of the machine .
Advantages :
Due to the simultaneous knit , production rate will be much more higher than the weft knitting.
The yarn is in criss-cross form to the adjacent wale line , so that dimensional stability will be much higher.
Elongation of the fabric will be less.
Applications :
Warp knitted fabric will be used for apparel ,fashion fabric and technical textiles.
raschel KNITTING Process
Raschel knit
Raschel Knit Fabric is a type of Warp knitted fabrics, which are made in a special knitting
machine with yarns from warp beam. The face side of the fabric has slightly inclined vertical
knitting loops whereas the backside of the fabric has inclined horizontal floats. They do not
ravel.Raschel knits have a lacelike, open construction, with a heavy, textured yarn held in
place by a much finer yarn. Raschels can be made in a variety of types, ranging from fragile to
coarse, and usually have limited stretch. Raschel knitting machines produce both flat and
tubular warp knit fabrics that resemble crochet and lace fabrics. Raschel knit material can
contain inlaid yarns in addition to the vertical rows of stitches. The fabrics are similar to
tricot knitting but more open and with a coarser texture. Warp knit fabrics have greater
dimensional stability than weft knit materials and are less likely to sag, nor do they ravel as
easily.
Usage:
Raschel knit fabrics are produced from spun or filament yarns of different weights
and types. Most raschel knits can be identified by their intricate designs, the open-
space look of crochet or lace, and an almost three-dimensional surface effect
design. They are mostly used in sportswear and athleticwear. Raschel Knit Fabric
has good draping qualities and is frequently used as an unlined material for coats,
lingerie and dresses.
WEFT KNITTING
Weft knitting is the simplest method of converting a yarn into fabrics.
Weft knitting is a method of forming a fabric in which the loops are made in
horizontal way from a single yarn and intermeshing of loops take place in a
circular or flat form on a crosswise basis.
Most of the weft knitting is of tubular form. It is possible to knit with only
one thread or cone of yarn, though production demands have resulted in
circular weft knitting machines being manufactured with upto192 threads
(feeders).
WEFT KNITTING MACHINE
Weft Knitting Machines are used to make weft knitted fabrics by just a
single yarn.
Straight Bar
Features
Straight bar frames is a specific type of machine having a vertical bar of bearded
needles whose movement is controlled by circular engineering cams attached to
a revolving cam-shaft in the base of the machine.
The length of the machine is divided into a number of knitting heads (sections or
divisions) and each head is capable of knitting a separate but identically-
dimensioned fashion-shaped garment panel.
The needles press their beards against a fixed pressing edge; loop formation prior
to intermeshing is achieved by individually horizontally-moving loop-forming
sinkers, and knock-over occurs when the needles descend below the knock-over
bits.
At either edge of each knitting head, a group of rackably-controlled points
transfer loops to fashion shape the garment panel at the selvedges by widening
or narrowing the knitting width. On completion of the garment panel, it is
pressed-off the needles.
Advantage
High-quality garments as a result of the gentle knitting action
Low fabric tension and fashion shaping.
Reduces the waste of expensive yarn during cutting and is emphasized on the
garments by carefully-positioned fashion marks
Flat Bar Knitting Machine
Features
Flat Bar Knitting machines are most suitable for flat or 3D creations but is also
applicable in creating tubular knits like circular knitting machines.
In this type of fabric knitting machine, the needles are arranged on a straight bar.
The mechanism follows a back and forth movement of the carriage containing
the yarn feeders through a horizontal path.
Advantage
High stitch potential which includes needles selection on one or both beds,
needle-out designs, racked stitches, tubular knitting, striping, loop transfer.
By making use of flat knitting machines, we can also change the width of the
knitting fabric.
Application
Collars
Arm bands
Sweaters
CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Features
A detector exists on circular knitting machines which detects warps and wefts. It can
supervise behavior of warps or wefts in service real time. When wefts or warps break or
finish, detector can show the direction and stop the machine from operating
automatically.
Tension on warps or wefts can be controlled by machines automatically. The surface of
woven bag is smooth and beautiful.
Micro-electric control. Meters are counted automatically and shown by data.
Intelligent ascension takes place of conventional mechanical dense gear variation of
wefts.
The upper and lower tracks of shuttles in circular knitting machines are handled by
hard chromium plating, highly improving its abrasive resistance.
Frequency conversion of machines is stable.
Circular knitting machines have hyperbola cams, nylon slides and brown box sliders. Oil
pump outside machines force oil-bath for lubrication. Circular knitting machines have
less abrasion and low maintenance costs.
Advantage
Extremely high speeds at which it produces continuous lengths of fabric.
Cost-effective production method for bulk products
Application
Home Textile - carpets, towels, mats
Fashion Clothes -Polo-shirts, T-shirts, scarves, dresses
Sportswear - tops, sports pants, shorts, socks, swimwear, tights.
Material Flow in Circular Knitting Machine:
The yarn is fed from the yarn package through the yarn guide, yarn tensioner, guide,
feeder to the knitting elements for knitting as shown in the diagram. After the knitting
of fabric, it is wound on to the cloth roller through the take down roller
PARTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Pulley Belt: It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel. MPF: It is Mamenger positive feed. It is also an important
part of the machine. It’s give positive feed to the machine
Cylinder: Needle track are situated hear. Expander: To control the width of the knitted fabric.
No distortion of the knitting courses.
Cylinder Balancer: It helps the cylinder to set in a proper alignment. Needle Detector: This part detect the any type of
faults of needles.
Uniwave Lubrication: The Uniwave lubricator Air Gun Nozzle: To feed the yarn; sometimes it is
provides uniform lubrication to needles, cam tracks, used for cleaning purpose.
lifters and other knitting machine components
Their front and back faces are different from each other.
Fabrics that are produced in the form of tubes, but can also be cut and used in the form of open width.
Wider widths can be obtained in single jersey fabrics compared to rib and interlock fabrics.
When used as a garment, it is worse to wrap the body than other weft-oriented knitted fabrics due to their less flexibility.
Single jersey knit fabric knit has less patterning possibilities than other knits.
Since the knitting report is formed on a single needle on a single plate, it is the knitting type with the least amount of yarn spent per unit area.
When cut, curls occur from the sides towards the back of the fabric and from the top and bottom towards the front of the fabric.
Jersey manufacturers begin by taking cotton, wool, or synthetic yarn and loading it into an
automated knitting machine. The knitting machine then twists and combines yarn to create
the distinctive, close-knit structure of jersey fabric. Once complete, jersey fabric looks like a
latticework of twisted vertical yarns connected by untwisted horizontal yarns. In some cases,
yarn intended for manufacture into jersey garments is dyed prior to the knitting process,
and in other scenarios, textile manufacturers dye fabric once it is finished. Depending on
the material used, textile manufacturers may also apply flame retardants or other finishing
treatments to improve the appearance or durability of jersey fabric.
Applications
Textile manufacturers primarily use jersey fabric to make casual, lightweight garments like T-
shirts and underwear. There are quite a few different types of jersey fabric, however, and
manufacturers might use certain types of jersey for more heavy-duty applications. Jersey is
also a popular choice for athletic wear. While sports uniforms most commonly feature
synthetic fibers these days, many athletic shirts, tank tops, and shorts feature jersey knits.
Applications of jersey fabric mainly remain limited to apparel, but one notable non-apparel
example of a jersey fabric application is bedding. Due to its tight-knit softness, textile
manufacturers commonly use jersey fabric to make bed sheets, pillowcases, and even
blankets.
Rib knit
Rib knit is a type of knit fabric created using two needles that has vertical textured
lines. The vertical ribs are created with a certain number of knit stitches (more
prominent) and a certain number of purl stitches (the groove between the ribs),
repeated multiple times along the width of the fabric (which is usually made and
sold in circular pieces, without any selvedge). Depending on how many knits and
purls, you can have different rib knit fabrics. A 2x2 rib knit will have a sequence of
two knits and two purls.
Ribbed knits have wales or vertical rows of stitches that form ribs on both the face
and the back of the fabric making both sides appear the same. Ribbed knit are
usually 100% cotton, but can also come with spandex and other fiber blends, and
have a natural stretch that make them very useful for cuffs, bands, and necklines.
Rib knits are also popular for use in infant wear and tops and dresses.
Characterstics
Alternative courses are made of all face loops and all back loops. each wale is made of face loop
and back loop in an alternative order
Fabric has horizontal corrugation or rib appearance on the surfaces, i.e. opposite to rib fabric.
Fabric has very high extensibility in length direction, making it suitable for kidswear.
Fabric does not curl at the edges because of alternate face and back loop courses.
Applications
Purl Knit Fabric is the best alternative to knitwear production. Using a purl knit fabric in your
production would avoid the price and overwhelmed demand problems in knitwear production.
Purl Knit Fabrics look the same on both sides of the fabric. Many attractive patterns and designs
can be created with the purl stitch. It is often used in the manufacture of bulky sweaters,
cardigans, pullovers and children’s clothing.
Interlock knit
Interlock knit fabric is a variation of rib knit. Rib knit is a type of
fabric knitted with rows that alternate between being raised and
lowered. But instead of having just one row of stitches, interlock
knit fabric has two rows of stitches.
The rows of stitches are created one behind the other, using two
rows of needles that cross over each other to construct it. Because
of the two rows, interlock knit fabric is known as a double knit
fabric. The rows become “interlocked” as the fabric is knitted. The
interlocked, double rows also create a fabric that is thicker than
regular knit fabric.
Characterstics
interlocks have a great amount of stretch, but the fabric has a good recovery. interlock knit
fabric will return to its original shape after it has been stretched out.
interlock knit prevents runs and will not unravel or curl at the edges.
Applications
Due to the characteristics of interlock knit fabric, it can be used for many different types of clothing.
The fabric is ideal for all temperatures and can be used to make casual or more formal clothing.
Absorbency, thickness, comfort, and softness are factors in determining what interlock knit fabric is
used for. Interlock knit fabric is a popular choice for underwear and pajamas due to its
breathability. It is used for baby clothing due to its softness, hoodies due to its warmth, and t-shirts
and dresses due to its comfort. The absorbency, breathability, and natural stretch also make
interlock knit one of the best fabric choices for sportswear.