PART 1

KNIFE SKILLS: the basics

CUTTING-EDGE
TECHNOLOGY
Learning to use a knife properly will not only the exactness and precision that can come only
improve the presentation of your food to make it with practice. By following the advice and
more appetizing, but in many cases the food will illustrated steps in this book, you too can learn
taste better. For example, take a butter sauce, how to choose a knife so that its handle fits your
Beurre Nantaise —many homemade versions hand, how to hold it intimately so that it
become sour and acidic because the shallots are becomes an extension of your arm and hand,
not cut finely enough to release their sugars. and how to control its action.
You will also find that choosing the best- For example, you will learn how to use blades
quality knives that you can afford will turn out with round-edged points to rock, slide, and
to be a blue-chip investment: you cannot lose, chop vegetables effortlessly or to select a more
because you will find preparing and cooking aggressive, long, scalloped knife to bite evenly
foods of all kinds much easier and quicker. through a crusty sourdough loaf.
While using knives, remember that you are
choosing and using knives responsible for your own safety and that of
As you will see in the following pages, there are everyone else in the kitchen, but do not let this
considerable differences in kitchen knives, for deter you from the thrill of wielding a precision
example in the types and grades of steel—from tool with skill and efficiency.
corrosive and rigid to stainless and elastic. Over
the centuries, knife blades and other tools have maintaining knives
been developed so that modern chefs have a Do not misuse a knife: it is not a can opener or
variety of cutting edges at their disposal to suit a screwdriver. You will irreparably damage your
different foods and preparation methods, as well knife and could easily injure yourself. There is
as to provide for the needs of different cuisines. little more dreary in life than struggling with a
Once you have acquired a suitable collection blunt knife, so keep it sharpened and honed—
of knives and blades, this book will show you this cannot be done too frequently. A ceramic or
how to use them correctly and skillfully. The Japanese knife, when sharpened and honed daily
professional chefs spend years perfecting their by professionals, can “drop” through an onion,
knife skills and pride themselves on mastering without any juice escaping.

CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY 9
 LEARNING TO CUT
Many people are hesitant about using knives Learn how to wield three sharp knives and you
with dexterity or assume that such skills are will halve the time it takes to prepare a meal and
unattainable. Nothing is further from the truth. make time in the kitchen much more satisfying.

Three common faults prevent people from cutting properly. The first
is trying to carve a cold cut by pressing the knife through the meat.
Unless used on butter, knives only cut when in motion and sliding
backward and forward like a saw. The second mistake is to make a
pert, rocking movement of the blade, as if the food needed help falling
off the blade. The third error is choosing too small a knife for the task.
Before you start, make sure that the work surface is the correct
height for what you are going to do. Straightforward cutting and
carving usually is done on a 3ft (90cm) tall work top, butchery and
work with a cleaver on a lower surface. Check that the cutting board
does not make the work surface too high up in relation to your body.
Your cutting board is a place of action, not a storage area for peelings
or cut items. Before you begin, set out a couple of small baking trays
and a bowl for waste, so you can clear and clean your board constantly.
Begin with the messiest tasks first, such as plucking pheasants and
snipping pinions, gutting fish, or simply peeling vegetables. As you
progress to finer cutting and decorative tasks, you will be able to
concentrate on and enjoy them, knowing that the big stuff is done.

correct ways of cutting

First, adopt a well-balanced and relaxed stance: place your feet hip-
width apart so your weight is on the center of your feet. Relax your
shoulders and your arms for optimum flexibility in your wrists. A long
knife is best for slicing and carving tender ingredients—some chefs peel
an orange with a 14in (36cm) scalloped slicing knife. A long blade and
flexible wrist gives more precision than trying to remove the peel with
a tightly gripped paring knife. Most pastries are cut with long knives for
this reason. Think of violinists and the control they have over their
bows on the strings: their wrists are raised above their fingers, and
their forearms driven by the elbows and shoulders. The more you slice
a knife to and fro, with minimum pressure, the better you will cut.
Try carving one breast of a well-cooked chicken with a long knife,
while flexing your wrist as fast as you can. Then try forcing the same
knife through the other breast. The first chicken breast will yield

10 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

chopping vegetables Cut vegetables according to how
they are cooked: from large chunks for slow cooking and
sauces to fine dice for releasing flavor into oils.

moist, juicy, and elegant slices. The second, although just as tender,
will appear dry, ragged, fragmented and overcooked.
The rocking-chopping action is a comfortable way of chopping and
renders consistently thin slices. Place the ingredient flat on the board
and parallel to the edge of the work surface, and use a large chef’s or
santoku knife. The blade tip never leaves the board, helping to bring
the cutting edge closer to the last slice. Drop your wrist so the heel
of the knife slides down on the item, cutting it, and push the knife tip
away from you, through the ingredient, toward the other side of the
board. Raise your wrist and the knife, point still on the board, and
bring the heel just a hair away from the previous cut, to produce the
thinnest possible slice. Once you have mastered this technique, it will
be a real pleasure to reduce mounds of ingredients to thin slices.
For soft vegetables and fruits, like apples and mushrooms, resort to
the mandolin for fast and precise results with no practice whatsoever.

LEARNING TO CUT 11
 ANATOMY OF A KNIFE
A good knife is a highly effective tool, perfected cannot efficiently cut every ingredient. For
through centuries. Each part of the knife has example, the most important parts of a large
properties designed to deal with the wide range knife are the bolster and the heel (which is ideal
of textures and tasks found in the kitchen. for heavy chopping and cleaving), while a small
Understanding the role that each part plays knife with a fine point and tip to the blade
is crucial to using a knife correctly. One knife is the best tool for more intricate work.

the point
is used to make fine
incisions, and to pierce
foods, papers, and films the spine is the top of the
(e.g., plastic wrap before blade, is wider in large knives, and
microwaving) may be grasped by the fingers for
better stability; in some knives, it
is also useful for crushing garlic

the cutting edge ,

the tip (the first third of the blade) is used between heel and tip, works
for cutting soft vegetables, small ingredients, hard during chopping and slicing
through ligaments, and for fine slicing

12 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 Knives differ significantly in shape and size, At first glance it might be difficult to
even within the Western world—the flexibility of distinguish a high-quality knife from an inferior
a long blade in a fish filleting knife and the curve one, but if you look at the knife shown below,
of the short blade in a turning knife enables both you cannot help but admire its lean lines. From
to perform specific tasks in the kitchen. its incisive point to the well-finished head of the
However, the basic structure remains the same. handle, you can see that it is fit for its purpose.

the tang is not

the bolster is the
always visible, but is the
part of the steel that
junction between the
extends into the handle
blade and the handle,
and protects the hand
in large knives

the handle
the hollow rivets may be made from a
hold the tang to the variety of materials
blade; they should be and is important to
flush and tight with the comfort in cutting
handle, with no crevices
for bacterial growth

the heel is the heaviest

part of a large knife and closest
to the hand; it is used with
a classic forged chef’s knife
maximum strength to cleave All knives, irrespective of size,
through hard, tough foods have a similar anatomy.

ANATOMY OF A KNIFE 13
 types of kitchen-knife blades
Your knife collection should feature a variety of blades. This helps to
keep them all sharp: if you use scalloped blades when appropriate, those
with tapered ground blades will get less wear. You will also enjoy cutting
all ingredients, precisely and without bruising, in many different recipes.

tapered ground edge

Seen in cross-section, this
blade has a thin, long, taper
from spine to cutting edge.
Most knives have this blade:
it is good for chopping and
general-purpose slicing.

scalloped edge Often on

a long knife, the teeth of this
edge are similar to those in
a serrated blade. The teeth
protect the cutting edge and
the blade stays sharp for
longer. Ideal for cutting
fragile sponge cakes (p189).

serrated edge The saw-toothed edge easily

bites through tough skins and tender centers, as in
eggplant. If only one edge of the blade is serrated, e.g.,
some tomato knives, you can sharpen it at home (p44).

granton edge The oval depressions hold tiny

pockets of air, which stop slices that are being
cut from sticking to the blade. This blade is good
for moist foods such as large joints of cold meats,
smoked salmon, ham, and turkey.

single ground edge Japanese knives

were traditionally beveled on the
right-hand side only. They were
thought to produce cleaner slices.

14 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 types of kitchen-knife handles
Handles vary a great deal and have a big impact on your enjoyment
of using a knife. When buying a knife, think of the tasks you need it
for and assess the handle accordingly. A large knife should have a big
handle and all knives should feel comfortable in your hand.

wooden handle Formerly, these

were made of hardwood, rosewood or
walnut, with a tight grain that needed
occasional oiling. Today, wooden
handles are composite and
impregnated with plastic.

plastic handle Plastic handles are

smooth, crevice-free, and now most
popular. Polypropylene (shown here)
handles are cheaper, can be slippery,
and may melt near hot pans. Handles
(see below) of polyoxymethylene (POM)
give a better grip and last longer.

ergonomic handle The flowing

lines are designed to fit the
contours of your hand and to be
extremely comfortable. Many
chefs use a knife for up to 16 hours
a day, so a good grip is essential.

“rat tail” tang

the tang
Cheap knives have a “rat tail” tang,
which is mean and thin—a millimeter
wide, running just 1½in (3cm) into the
handle—or have no tang at all. A full
tang, found in the best knives, indicates
that the blade runs the entire length
full tang
and width of the knife, giving excellent
balance, stability, and endurance. Sealed
plastic handles hide the tang, otherwise
it is visible on both edges of the handle
and is fastened in place by rivets.

ANATOMY OF A KNIFE 15
 HISTORY OF KNIFE-MAKING
Man’s ingenuity has produced cutting tools for in the kitchen. Magnificent professional knives,
millions of years—first for use with stone and made from stainless steel with a high carbon
then with food. Today, knives and scissors have content and used by the world’s leading chefs,
been designed and developed for every purpose are readily available for everyone.

early cutting implements

Early cutting implements were made from stone, ivory, horns, and
antlers, but by 6500BCE humans had discovered how to mine and extract
the metals copper, lead, and gold. These were too soft for hunting and
cooking implements—even blending them with other metals and
minerals to produce alloys, such as bronze, did not solve the problem.
By 4000BCE , the Egyptians were using knives made from obsidian
(a polished, volcanic glass) and flint, which gives a good cutting edge.
The real boost to knife-making was the discovery of iron, around
1000 BCE . Iron bestowed strength and durability for cutting and
chopping. It was also cheap and available for common use,
but was prone to rusting and also too malleable.
With the mastery of smelting around 700 BCE ,
metalsmiths added carbon to iron to make steel,
reducing the danger and difficulty that had marred
earlier attempts. Improvement of the furnaces allowed
more control to produce a metal that was durable,
flexible, and able to take and hold a sharp edge.

knife-making in the West

Kitchen knives developed in small forges out of the
production of side weaponry such as daggers, sabres,
and swords. In the fourteenth century, Chaucer
mentions a cutler in Sheffield (“cutler” was the name
then given to a maker of knives and weaponry) and the
town is still a British center for knife-making.

m o d e r n We s te r n k n i v e s A knife begins as a steel blank

(far left), a long strip of metal—high-quality steel is used for the
best knives. The blank is hammered out on a forge to delineate
the rough shape of the blade and tang on the blank (center left).
The shape is cut out of the blank and holes are drilled in the
tang to take the rivets that will attach the handle (near left).

16 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 modern knife manufacture

m a c h i n e g r i n d i n g During manufacture, both c h e c k i n g by h a n d The blade is hammered and

sides of the blade are ground repeatedly to a fine straightened by hand and checked repeatedly during
edge; water is used to cool the blade and prevent any and after the process. Then the tang is straightened
deterioration. The blade is then hardened in an oven. in a vice before a handle is attached.

By the sixteenth century, the French were making the finest knives
in the world; René Antoine Ferchault de Réaumur wrote a treatise on
metallurgy in 1722. Table knives, spoons, and forks had become part of
European culture. However, carbon steel proved to be too soft, was
easily pitted, and discolored by acidic foods, and the cutlery required
careful and immediate drying. By 1912, however, greater control of the
furnaces became possible and stainless steel was produced by adding
chrome to carbon steel. This new steel didn’t rust or discolor and
produced a tough blade with a sharp edge, which was hard to attain,
but once produced held in wet conditions.
By now the Germans were the master cutlers of the Western world.
In 1731, in Solingen, the powerhouse of knife-making, Peter Henckels
had registered the TWIN trademark with the Solingens Cutlers’ Guild.
His company mixed carbon steel, iron, chrome, and other metals to
make high-carbon stainless-steel knives, with a superb cutting edge.

knife-making in East Asia

Among all the exciting, distinctive cuisines of Asia, the Chinese and
the Japanese deserve especial recognition. Eating small morsels with
chopsticks demands expert cutting and chopping to have taken place
beforehand. The standard knife in a Chinese kitchen is a large, carbon-
steel, square-ended cleaver, and it has been so for centuries, although
now they are available in polished stainless steel. In contrast, the range

HISTORY OF KNIFE-MAKING 17
 of Japanese knives—hand-sharpened to honbatsuki (“true edge”)
standard—is legendary. There are two types of traditional Japanese
knives: kasumi and honyaki.

kasumi & honyaki knives

These knives derive from traditional Samurai sword manufacture.
Making a kasumi knife involves a complex process of heating high-
carbon steel and soft iron together, hammering the alloy flat, folding
it, then hammering it flat and folding it again. This hand-working of the
two metals is repeated, in many layers, and often at various angles.
When the blade is polished, a shimmering but subtle pattern is
created—called kasuminagashi, the “floating mist.” It is also known as
the Damascene effect after the laminating process, which evolved in
Damascus, Syria, after 400BCE. From 1300CE, Sakai became the capital
of small weaponry manufacture in Japan. Knife production started in
the sixteenth century, when the Portuguese introduced tobacco to
Japan, and knives were needed for cutting it.
Honyaki knives are of higher quality, being made entirely of high-
carbon steel, but they are more difficult to use and to maintain their
kirenaga, or duration of sharpness.

the knife-making craft in Japan

During the Genroku period (1688–1704), the very first deba hocho
knives for cutting vegetables were produced: knives with curved spines
and lethal points, with the arched grace of a ballet dancer’s pointed
toe. The knives’ extreme sharpness allows food to be cut into the
thinnest of slices without ragging.
This was followed by a wide range of kitchen-knife styles, all with
traditional handles of honoki wood, from a species of magnolia that
was also used by sword makers. Blades varied from extremely long
and thin, used to cut tuna, to blunt-ended cleavers. The Tokugawa
shogunate (1603–1868) granted a special seal of approval to the Sakai
knife industry, which virtually gave it a monopoly.
Miki City is a center for traditional blacksmiths and silversmiths.
Most knife manufacturers are still small family businesses, where
craftsmanship exceeds volume and they produce only a few knives
a day. Seki City is considered the home of Japanese kitchen cutlery.
Technology has updated ancient forging skills to produce world-class
stainless- and laminated-steel knives. In the san mai (a three-layered,
laminated blade), metal layers are laid evenly, like a baker making puff
pastry, which results in a blade that resists corrosion and maintains
strength and durability. Handles are often made of hardwood.

18 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

Japanese knives The blades are
much longer and the tips more
pointed than Western knives.
Japanese knives are used with
great precision.
 MODERN KNIVES
Thanks to rapid advances in technology, both quality. It is up to individuals to choose knives
Western and Japanese knife manufacturers of different properties that suit the food and
produce a huge range of knives to a very high recipes prepared in their own kitchens.

Japanese knives
In Japanese culture, the preparation and presentation of food are
raised from routine, daily tasks to an art form. Japanese knives are
central to this tradition and their evolution has been driven solely by
functional requirements. The blade, with a hard, brittle core that takes
and holds a supreme edge, is supported and contained by ductile metal
cheeks that protect the core, leaving just the cutting edge exposed.
This gives the knife great strength and durability.
These knives require more care than Western kitchen knives:
they should be washed by hand, sharpened frequently using Japanese
waterstones, and occasionally wiped over with a light mineral oil.
Japanese chefs will do this every night after service—a task that is
more a religion than a duty. In return, they have knives with superb
balance and sharpness that make food preparation a true pleasure.
Traditionally Japanese knives are beveled on one side only, for
use with the right hand. Although requiring more skill to use, it was
thought that this would give a cleaner cut, and would be easier to
maintain the sharpness against a stone.

fusion knives
Recently, traditional Japanese knives have been transformed to meet
the demands of the Western kitchen. The new knives are made with

Japanese knife rounded tip allows for

rocking, slicing, and chopping

traditionalhandle
of magnolia (honoki) wood single right bevel stops sticking
and allows food to slide up and out

20 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

double-beveled blades from very pure, stain-resistant, high-carbon
steel that is alloyed, like Western knives, with molybdenum. This is
a transition metal, used in high-strength steel alloys, that does not
react with oxygen or water at room temperature. The result is an
extremely sharp and hard edge, but it is still cushioned and protected
in the traditional way by softer, outer layers of chrome stainless steel,
so that only the cutting edge of the core is exposed. The santoku knife
(p27), similar to a large chef’s knife, was designed for the West and
adopted with gusto in the Western home kitchen.
Ceramic blades are also becoming more popular, in spite of their
higher cost. The key ingredient of this type of blade is zirconium oxide,
which produces a blade of incredible sharpness that lasts for years if
cared for correctly. The ceramic blades can be sharpened only by
professionals, on a diamond wheel, and may snap if handled carelessly.

Western knives
The best of the Western knives, although forged, are not laminated or
worked in the same way as in Japan. There is only one way of making
Western knives: high-quality steel is hammered out on a forge and
then the blades are sharpened to a fine cutting edge by grinding on
both sides (p17).
Recent refinements include freezing blades to below –94°F (–70Cº)
for better protection against rust—even stainless steel is prone to
rust. They are also heated twice to just below 572°F (300ºC), to
harmonize the molecular structure of the metal.
Western knives are sharpened from time to time on a stone, but
honed throughout the day on a steel. Annually, each knife should be
treated professionally on a grinding wheel, to keep the blade straight
and trim, otherwise it will wear in a curve. Blades with serrated and
granton edges provide extra scope for cutting but, again, will need
professional sharpening.

greater heft copes with Western knife

larger amounts of food efficiently

shaped handle
for comfort and safety large blade used as a
cleaver and for heavy chopping

MODERN KNIVES 21
 CHOOSING A KNIFE
Take plenty of time in choosing a new kitchen demonstration provides an ideal opportunity for
knife. A good-quality knife is expensive, and asking pertinent questions of an expert, gaining
should last a lifetime, so give this moment the specialist advice, and—most importantly—giving
consideration it deserves. Buying a knife at a the knife a test run.

how many cheap knives do you have?

As with many tools, cheap knives are not cost-effective and it is always
worth investing in as good a set of knives as you can afford. Quality
knives are either Swiss, German, or Japanese. These countries have
long been leaders in the manufacture of precision instruments, having
access to steel foundries, and a history of uncompromising perfection.
If this is your first knife, choose a chef’s knife (p24), which will suit
most tasks. When loosely grasped, the handle should fill your hand—
you won’t want to put it down. Run your thumb around the curve of
the bolster; look for a substantial blade of forged steel, with a pleasing
satin finish. If you hook your index finger around the bolster, the knife
should swing gently into a horizontal orientation. If choosing a slicing
or filleting knife, press the tip against the counter: it should flex in an

good-quality knife rivets in heavy,

This has a full-length
tang, smooth and shaped handle sharp blade
substantial bolster, with subdued glint
and spine tapering
to a fine point.

handle is small
and lightweight

pressed blade is shiny

poor-quality knife and cutting edge coarse
A short tang, lack of
bolster, and thin spine
of uniform thickness
are bad signs.

22 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 well-balanced knife The
full tang gives greater heft
to the handle, distributing
the weight evenly through
the knife, to the point of
the blade, giving excellent
balance and making the
knife easier to use.

arc, with buoyant resistance. Big knives should be strong and heavy
near the bolster and heel of the blade, to help you when you chop by
cleaving powerfully through large and tough ingredients.
The blade should feel cool and contain a good proportion of carbon,
with enough chrome to keep it bright. The higher the amount of
carbon, the easier it is to keep sharp. Razor-sharp blades cut easily,
without pressing or mashing the ingredients. If you nick a tomato, the
flesh should spring back instantly.
A new blade should bite and cling to a wooden surface and be wide
enough to scoop up finely chopped ingredients, such as parsley. The
spine should be distinct, full, and strong near the handle, and taper to
a fine wafer at the sharp point. If possible, test its performance and
how it feels in your hand by trying it out at cutting and chopping.

a knife for life

There is no doubt that using properly sharp knives involves an
element of danger, and they should be handled with care and respect.
Remember that you will use a good-quality knife every day. It will
enhance your experience of cooking by making the preparation of the
ingredients much easier and a real pleasure. So if you don’t get a thrill
from handling a particular knife, the knife is not for you.

CHOOSING A KNIFE 23
 using the correct
knife is the first step
to cutting like an ut
expert chef ili
ty
kn
ife

fil
le
t in
g
kn
ife

bo
ni
ng
kn
ife

electric knife
An electric knife is not essential, and
should never be used to carve a roast,
but comes into its own with dealing
with delicate, finished items that have
taken a lot of work, such as a terrine
(p158), puff pastry tart, or cake
(p192) with a nut and caramel
topping. It cuts superbly clean slices.

24 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 TYPES OF KNIVES
pa
rin Although knives with plastic or stainless-steel handles can be
g
kn cleaned in a dishwasher, it is best to clean them by hand. In
ife a dishwasher, stainless steel can rust, wooden handles swell, and
it is extremely dangerous to stack knives in a dishwasher pullout.

1 boning knife This is ideal for taking the flesh off bones and
silver skin off meat, such as silverside and fillet. A slightly flexible
blade works best. The blade is short, to give full control of the tip
as it works at 180º angles, delving deep into joints and snipping
ligaments. Slide it parallel and along the curve of the
bone; never cut on to the bone, which would blunt it.
2 filleting knife Essential if you cook fish, this is
the most flexible blade of all. When pressed hard
against the backbones of flat fish and employed in flat,
sweeping or “wiping” movements, this knife takes fillets
off the bones. It deftly cuts around fish like mackeral or trout in
half lengthwise. 3 utility knife Usually under 6in (15cm), this
has a finer blade than the chef’s knife, and may not have a full
tang. It is good for carving and slicing fine, white meats such
as chicken breasts or calves’ liver, and soft vegetables like
zucchini. 4 paring knife With its sharp point and
virtually no bolster, this is essential for all the small
jobs with fruits and vegetables, such as coring out
seeds of chilies. It is also good for peeling or slicing
items held in the hand, like carrots and apples. 5 chef’s knife
or cook’s knife This general, all-purpose kitchen knife gains
its versatility from the size of its blade, which ranges between
6in (15cm) and 14in (36cm). The largest chef’s knives can crack
la open crab claws and coconuts, kill lobsters, and chop huge
rg bunches of parsley, as well as cut hard, tight cabbages.
e
ch The long blade is useful for cutting raw doughs and
ef pastry. The shorter blade is best for smaller
’s
k ni vegetables, for slicing and trimming fruit and
fe vegetables, e.g., oranges, and working with
meat and fish. Both sizes can be used for
cutting meat, mincing and dicing herbs and
vegetables, and for julienne.

TYPES OF KNIVES 25
 6 slicing knife The long, elegant blade of this knife
ranges from 7½–10¼in (18–26cm) in length and is easy to
manipulate precisely. It is perfect for slicing boned meat
and slides over the breastbones of game and poultry,
carving the tender fillets. The point lifts out the juiciest bits
of meat from next to the bone. 7 15cm (6in)
serrated knife Sometimes called the “gin-and-tonic

ife
knife,” this handy knife will save wearing out your other

kn
knives. The teeth bite easily through tough skins and safely

g
cin
cut through round ingredients that tend to roll. Use it
for saucisson, tomatoes, and lemons. 8 scalloped

sli
slicer At 11in (28cm), this is ideal for crusty French
and Italian breads and large fruits, such as melons. It is
also excellent for slicing fancy, iced cakes; dip it in hot
water between each slice to clean the blade. 9 granton
knife The 12in (30cm) blade is designed to carve and
cut even thin slices. Held horizontally or vertically,

ife
its length gives great control and precision. The

kn
indentations hold air, ensuring that slices do not

d
stick together, so is ideal for cheese, cured

te
salmon, cold cuts, and pâtés. 10 bread

ra
knife Essential in every kitchen, a bread er
)s
knife cuts through crusts and enables you
m

to keep knives with tapered ground

5c

blades perfectly sharp. Avoid bread

(1

knives with pressed blades. A good

n
6i

bread knife will cut precisely

through mounds of sandwiches
with chunky fillings, breads
for croûtes, and pain bagnas.
11 santoku knife
Inspired by Japanese knives,
the “stir-fry knife” has a blade that is good for
scooping up finely sliced vegetables and herbs. It is easy
to learn to chop with and the rounded end is safe in the
r
ce

hand of a beginner. The knife makes fast work of making

sli

uniform vegetable dice, so they cook quickly but stay

d

crunchy, and is a good stand-in for a cleaver.

pe

12 turning knife This knife is for cutting

lo

large, often misshapen vegetables, like potatoes

al
sc

or cucumbers, into useful, perfectly neat, little

balls. It is also good for showing off!

26 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 gr
an
to
n
kn
ife

br
ea
d
kn
ife
sa
nt
tu ok
rn
in u
g kn
kn ife
ife

TYPES OF KNIVES
27
 do
tr ug
ow h
pa el cu
le sp tt
tt at er
e u la
kn
ife

C
hi
ne
s e
cl
ea
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r

fis
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sc
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ife
kn

cl
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am
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kn
oy

ife
 13 clam knife The rounded blade is slightly sharp on one side
and designed, like the oyster knife, for easing the mollusk off the
shell. Recent models have a plump, round handle for a better grip,
and are made of nonslip plastic, so can be used dry or wet. There
is no guard on this knife, since smooth clam shells pose little threat.
14 fish scaler This tool has teeth to rip off the scales. The
handle must feel comfortable when gripped tightly, for exerting
pressure. The scaler is always used under running water to rinse
sc off the scales and should not rust. 15 Chinese cleaver
al
pe A traditional, weighty blade of razor-sharp carbon steel and
l wooden handle helps with chopping and slicing all foods. Cooks
in the West use it for heavy work; deft Chinese chefs employ it
for everything, even jobs like deveining prawns, and the exigent
demands of wok cooking. 16 palette knife At about 12in
(30cm) long and beautifully balanced, this knife has many uses. It
lifts and turns long, delicate fillets of cooked fish without breaking
them, acts as a guide for cutting dough or pastry, and is vital for
lifting rolled-out pastry that has stuck to the work surface.
17 trowel spatula The dog’s leg on this ultra-efficient
version of a palette knife lets you slip the blade easily under food.
It is ideal for sweeping melted chocolate evenly over a cake,
pressing crumbs and a melted butter crust into a cheesecake tin,
and smoothing a roulade into a shallow oven sheet. 18 dough
cutter The blade is uniformly flat and efficient, but not sharp,
and may be straight or rounded, with a wooden or stainless-steel
handle. It is used for chopping risen dough to make rolls or buns.
Straight-bladed cutters serve also as a valuable scoop for
chopped nuts, herbs, and spices, and for clearing a work surface
of fine debris. 19 scalpel The surface of a fully risen
dough is as fragile as a butterfly’s wing. To score it
attractively, as in the loaves of French baguettes,
without dragging and irretrievably spoiling it, you
need a scalpel. 20 oyster knife A traditional
handle is thick, solid, and made of hardwood, and is
large enough to allow a good grip when thrusting, then
twisting the small, sturdy blade to open a shell. A large
ife

guard protects your fingers from the rugged shells as you

kn

force the blade between them. The blade is also fairly blunt, to
an

ease the live oyster off the shell. 21 Parmesan knife Not so
es

much a sharp-edged cutting knife, this short-bladed knife will dig

mr

into a large round of matured Parmesan cheese. Since the cheese

Pa

has a granular nature (it is not a pressed cheese), it will break

into large, appetizing slivers or nuggets, for eating or grating.

TYPES OF KNIVES 29
 SHARP-BLADED
CUTTING TOOLS
There are dozens of tasks that a professional chef does easily
with a knife, but that we find difficult—reach instead for a pair

me
of kitchen scissors or shears. The mandolin and mezzaluna, too,

zz
will enable you to perform like a professional chefin the kitchen.

a lu
na
1 kitchen scissors Use cheaper scissors for paper, flowers,
wire, and cardboard, to keep your kitchen scissors sharp. They
should have nonslip handles (for dry or wet use), pointed tips to
snip ligaments in the centers of tight joints, and sharp blades to
cut herbs or soft bones, e.g., of trout or quail. Teeth on the blade
are used in loosening bottle tops. 2 poultry shears The long
curved blades and longer handles cut powerfully through ribcages
and backbones of game birds, and trim leg bones of game. Use
to cut through, rather than carving, joints and for destemming
large bunches of parsley. 3 mezzaluna The curved blade
rocks fast, safely, and efficiently to chop soft and hard

or s
ingredients, such as herbs, chocolate, and nuts. Large handles
give a comfortable grip. Double-bladed versions are harder
to clean safely, but deal with more ingredients at a time.
cis s
4 mandolin This gives a shortcut to enviable slicing,
ns

including julienne, grating, and ribbons. It stands on

che

firm legs at a perfect, ski-slope angle for sliding

kit

ingredients over the adjustable blades. Using

the carriage is advisable for beginners. Stand
with feet shoulder-width apart, weight
in the center of your body, and hold
its legs firmly against your
middle with one arm and hand.
Slide each vegetable or fruit
rs

over the blade carefully; as

a

slices fall away, flex your

he

fingertips upward. The

ys

faster you cut, the better

tr
ul

the cutting action, and the

po

finer the slices.

30 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 n
oli
nd
ma
blade changer slicing blade

chipping teeth

fluted blade for julienne

mandolin carriage
All mandolins of this type have a
separate carriage. This clamps oval
and round items, like potatoes, firmly
on to the cutting blade and slides up
and down the face of the mandolin,
removing all danger to your fingers.

SHARP-BLADED CUTTING TOOLS 31

 these make life much easier in the
kitchen, give a professional look
to your cooking, and are easy to use

er
r at
g
eg
tm

set of cutters

er
rat
nu

g
ne
pla
cro
bo

mi
xg
ra
te
r

k
for
sh
rim

at
me
p
de
ve
in
er
 OTHER CUTTING
ACCESSORIES
1 set of cutters The smallest cutters punch holes in pastry,
e.g., in tops of pâtés en croûte or steak and kidney pies. Small
ones stamp out centers of pineapple slices and large ones are used
to shape potatoes into cylinders for lattice potatoes (p71).
Medium cutters are useful for mincemeat pie bases and medium-
small ones for cutting out mincemeat pie tops. 2 box
grater This traditional grater is always useful; the handle on top
enables you to apply pressure to make it stand securely on a plate.
The various shredders on the sides are good for grating all types
of cheese, citrus zest, and slicing potatoes. Take care of your
fingertips and nails. 3 nutmeg grater Nutmeg is a volatile
spice, so it has to be freshly grated. Too much nutmeg gives a
bitter flavor, but the sharp teeth on this little grater quickly
supply the right amount. 4 microplane grater This fine
shredder copes with almost every food. The curved blade is made
from surgical-grade steel with chemically etched, razor-sharp
perforations, creating a grating surface that needs a minimum
amount of pressure during use. Models come with coarse or fine
holes. A similar, stainless-steel citrus grater (not shown) shreds
the skins of citrus fruits finely and evenly, without zest clogging
the blade, enabling you to stop when you reach the bitter white
pith. Both graters are dishwasher-proof. Take care of fingertips
and nails. 5 shrimp deveiner The point helps to cut through
the flesh on the outside of the shrimp and lift out the dark,
intestinal thread. The tool is used widely where shrimp are the
size of large prawns. 6 meat fork Essential to good carving,
the fork pins meat or a bird to the board, while your other hand
wields the slicing knife. Also use it to lift and turn roasting birds,
as well as hold a roast chicken vertically to tip juices onto a
plate—if they are clear, the chicken is cooked. 7 Parmesan
grater A simple box made from plastic or fruitwood, it catches
and stores the grated cheese as well as supports the grater, so you
can use plenty of pressure. It is topped with a stainless-steel, easily
cleaned blade, with sharp teeth for biting into the Parmesan.

Parmesan grater
OTHER CUTTING ACCESSORIES 33
 GARNISHING TOOLS

che
It is easy to collect lots of cutting gadgets. When piled into kitchen

e se
drawers, they get tangled up, can be unhygienic, and hardly ever
see the light of day. However, the tools shown here will be used

slic
time and time again. Don’t put them in the dishwasher.

er
citr
1 melon baller As well as for melons, this is mostly used for

us z
other tasks such as coring apples and pears, so choose a good-

e st
sized one, with a nonslip handle. 2 canelle knife The point in
the circular blade carves channels in fruits and vegetables, and

er
takes strips of zest from citrus fruit. 3 citrus zester If you
tend to shred the ends of your fingers on other graters, this
gives a neat and quick way of removing zest from citrus
fruits—usually as a first step before chopping. 4 cheese
slicer Pull the slicer over a hard cheese to take
off thin wafers for crostini, open sandwiches,
or cheese on toast. 5 peelers In a kitchen,

ca n
nothing is more personal than your favorite
peeler. Keep at least one of each type, so

elle
that others can help you with the peeling
chores. The classic rigid peeler is easier to

kni
use than a paring knife for some. A swivel

fe
peeler works smoothly at peeling, as well as
me

enhancing the curves of fruits and vegetables,

lon

especially pears, apples, and kiwi fruits. The

horseshoe peeler is ideal for tough items like
ba l

squash and celeriac, and suited to the light touch

needed for peeling asparagus. 6 corer If used with a
ler

powerful Brutus grip (p36) and vertical plunge, this

removes apple cores entirely. It must be strong, with a
nonslip handle. 7 butter curler Draw the fluted
blade over a slab of butter that is not too cold or hard, and
definitely not too soft, to create impressive curls for formal
meals. 8 egg slicers A wire slicer is perfect for hard-
boiled eggs, outdoor sandwiches, and boxed salads. Use
scissor slicers for the ultimate party trick: slice off the egg tops,
scramble the eggs, and spoon back into the shells with caviar
or chives.

34 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 wir
ee
gg
slic
er
hor
s esh
oe
pee
ler

rig
id p
swi eel
vel er
p eel
er
cor
er

but
scis t er
sor cur
egg le r
s li c
er
 KNIFE SAFETY
A safe knife is a sharp knife that demands to hold the knife in the most appropriate way.
minimum force if used correctly. The various Where possible, cut away from your body. Hold
cutting tasks require different grips, so once you the food with the other hand, so it feeds food
have chosen the knife blade for a task, you need into the cutting blade without nicking any fingers.

hand grips
Hold the blade farther away for more dangerous tasks. When cutting
delicate items precisely, keep it closer to you. If peeling and trimming
small items, hold it closest of all, steadying it with your other hand.

B r u t u s g r i p By holding
the knife vertically, as if
about to stab, you gain the
strength to strip the meat
from the bone. The grip
also allows you to flex your
wrist as you cut and follow
the intricate curves of meat
bones and joints. Such tasks
may also enhance your
appreciation of anatomy!
This powerful grip is the
one most used in butchery,
where entire carcasses
are rendered into joints
with little more than a
boning knife.

36 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

g e n e ra l - p u r p o s e g r i p Hold the handle firmly h o r i zo nta l c u t t i n g g r i p Press your thumb on the
in your palm with four fingers. The thumb may rest, blade, and wrap your fingers round the handle. Hold
when necessary, on the spine. The handle must fill the blade at a right angle to the work surface and use
your hand for comfort. This grip is good for cleaving an even, sawing action, for horizontal and cross-
tough foods and for general slicing and chopping. cutting, e.g., smoked salmon and cakes, and fine slicing.

t h u m b g r i p For precision work, the knife must be d o u b l e - h a n d e d g r i p Ideal for a bunch of herbs:
an extension of your hand. Squeeze forefinger and anchor the tip to the board with the fingertips of one
thumb on opposite sides of the blade, hold the bolster hand; hold the handle with your your thumb facing
firmly, and wrap the other fingers around the handle. you. Chop rapidly while moving the blade in an arc.

KNIFE SAFETY 37
 cutting safely
As a general rule, cut all ingredients on a wooden or plastic cutting
board with a damp cloth placed underneath to keep it from slipping.
Slice an end off round items, so they sit on the board without rolling.

h o l d i n g fo o d To avoid cutting your fingers,

grip the food with your hand like a claw, with
the fingernails and top finger joints parallel to
the blade. You can then safely guide the blade
against your knuckles as they move back.

quick tip
Move any knives resting on the
work surface out of your way,
but never near the edge of the
work surface. If they are lying
close to you and the cutting
board, turn the blades away
from you or, if space is tight,
snugly against the board.

cleaning knife blades Rinse the

knife in clean, hot, soapy water.
With the blade facing away from
you, wipe it with a damp, double-
folded cloth to remove any food
debris. Wipe from the heel and the
spine toward the blade and point—
never in the opposite direction.
Spritz the blade with sanitizer and
dry, using a paper or dish towel
and wiping in the same way.
The most dangerous and
common of knife injuries occurs
when a person grabs at something
in a sink and a blade slices the hand
between thumb and index finger,
so never leave knives soaking in
soapy water in the sink.

38 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

handling knives safely
Treat knives with great respect, especially when others are in the
kitchen and when carrying a knife. Never be tempted to try to catch
a falling knife—stand out of the way and let it drop to the floor.

p a s s a k n i fe s a fe l y Hold the knife by the spine

and blade, cutting edge downward. Offer it to the
other person at a height that is comfortable for them,
ideally over a work surface. Or place on the countertop,
cutting edge away from both of you, to be picked up.

tools of the trade

If you do not have a knife holster, and
need to transport knives, roll them in
a thick dish towel, enclosing the tips
and ensuring the blades do not touch
each other. Keep the bundle level
during the journey. Never leave a
cloth over a knife; someone may grab
it, unaware of the danger beneath.

w a l k i n g w i t h a k n i fe Hold the handle firmly,

with the blade close to your side, its tip pointing
downward, and the cutting edge facing behind you.
For extra control, place your thumb on the spine.
Never run, rush, or otherwise jeopardize the safety
of yourself or anyone else. If your kitchen includes
a collection of very sharp knives, wear covered
shoes to protect your feet.

39
 STORING KNIVES
Once you have invested in a set of good knives, blades. Opt for a system that allows you to
spare a thought about how to protect the select a knife quickly. Choose a time-honored
blades. Don’t try to store them jumbled in your material like wood which will hold the blades
kitchen drawers or leave them loose. This is individually and securely, or a plastic or metal
unhygienic, dangerous to fingers, and will dull the that can be properly cleaned.

storage systems
If space is tight, think of wall storage (see opposite). If you have a fully
equipped kitchen, you might choose to fit a specially designed knife
drawer (below right). A knife block is one of the best storage solutions,
taking up little space and being completely portable: it can accompany
you wherever you work, in the kitchen or outdoors (below left).

f re e - s ta n d i n g k n i fe b l o c k These come in d ra w e r i n s e r t s If you aim for a clutter-free

various sizes, so choose one to suit your assortment worktop, a sleek kitchen, and safety, lay out your
of knives. Make sure that it is solid and heavy and will knives in an insert in a drawer. It may be a standard
not topple over, and that the holes fit your blades. The design or custom-made to suit your own collection.
handles are angled to make it easy to grasp any knife. This system also avoids blunting the cutting edges.

40 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

m a g n et i c k n i fe s t r i p This simple storage system
keeps knives and blades visible, and is also hygienic.
Choose the strongest magnetic power available and
always store the blades pointing upward. Test heavy
knives on the strip before letting go of the handle:
often it is better to store large knives in a drawer,
protected by a homemade cardboard sheath (p217).
 CARING FOR KNIVES
Keen chefs take pride in sharpening kitchen finish for sharpening dull knives that have been
knives regularly on a stone. There are three blunted by daily use. Fine sharpening of knives
main types of finishes to a sharpening stone. is done on a superfine finish. If the stone is not
A rough finish is suitable for completely blunt, completely matte and flat before you begin
chipped, and damaged knives, and a medium sharpening, rub it on a fine concrete surface.

general rules of sharpening

Always move the blade across a sharpening stone in one direction,
never back and forth or in a circular motion. If using a whetstone, soak
it in cold water for 10–15 minutes, until bubbles stop rising. The length
of the knife blade defines the angle at which you hold it to sharpen it:
blades up to 6in (15cm) long are held at 10º, longer blades at 15–20º.

superfine
finish

diamond
stones
wear
evenly
one groove for
serrated
knives and one medium
for straight- finish
edged knives

d i a m o n d s to n e The best s w i p e - t h ro u g h s h a r p e n e r c o m b i n a t i o n w h et s to n e This

stones have 100% diamond crystals Blades are drawn through fine has two or three surfaces. Sharpen
and can rapidly sharpen any blade. grooves, which have sharpening first on the medium finish, then
They do not need to be soaked or elements at the bases. This is not move to the superfine side. Rubber
lubricated with mineral oil. as precise as a stone. feet stop the stone from slipping.

42 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 sharpening across the stone
Sharpen knives ground on both sides on the right side first, until you
feel a burr (rough edge) on the left side. Then sharpen the left side,
until you feel a burr on the right. Repeat, 4–5 times, until you have
removed the burr from both sides. After sharpening, wash the blade.

1 Place the stone at a right angle to your body. Hold

the handle with your right hand, and place the tip
of the blade at the end of the stone closest to you. Use
2 Push the blade slowly over and across the stone,
keeping the angle constant. When the blade
reaches the other end of the stone, only the heel of
your left hand to press the blade firmly and evenly on the blade should still be in contact with the stone—
the stone at the correct angle (see opposite). draw it off the stone in one smooth motion.

3 Turn over the blade

and repeat, drawing
the blade down the full
length of the stone. For
a good edge, it is essential
to maintain a consistent
angle, stroke after stroke,
between the blade and the
stone. Test if the knife is
sharp on a tomato: the
blade should slide easily
through the skin.

CARING FOR KNIVES 43

 sharpening along the stone
Working in a rhythmic, consistent, and relaxed way keeps the angle
and direction of the blade true on the stone—vital for sharpening a
blade successfully—and can be done only if you feel balanced. If you
find sharpening across a stone (p43) uncomfortable, try this method.

Position a sharpening stone parallel to the edge of Push the blade along the full length of the stone,
1 the work surface and your body. With your fingers,
press the blade point on to the top end of the stone,
2 while maintaining an even pressure and an angle
of 10–20° (see p42) between the blade and the stone.
ensuring it aligns with the stone’s longitudinal center. Draw the heel of the blade smoothly off the other end.

tools of the trade

Serrated knives that are scalloped
only on one side must be sharpened
only on the plain side. With knives
that are beveled on one side, make
sure you match the angle of the bevel
with the angle that the edge meets
the whetstone.
Alternatively, take your serrated
and scalloped knives to a professional
sharpening service. Ceramic and
Japanese knives are generally best
sharpened professionally.
3 Turn the knife over and repeat steps 1 and 2 (see
above) on the other side of the blade. Take care not
to oversharpen the edge—if the edge is too fragile, it
could break and blunt.

44 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 honing knives
Honing steels don’t sharpen blunt blades like sharpening stones do,
but instead maintain the cutting edge on a sharpened knife. Keep a
steel handy and always hone a knife before you use it. Hone the entire
cutting edge from heel to point, otherwise you will grind a curve in the
center of the blade, which will soon keep you from chopping effectively.

ova l h o n i n g s te e l This steel ro u n d h o n i n g s te e l This has a

is heavier than the round one (see chromium-plated, grooved surface
right), but is a treat to use. The that delivers good results. It is
oval shape tapers the blade to its hard-wearing and almost immune
original edge and the diamond to damage. Wipe the surface after
coating bites into the blade as sharpening to remove the burr
you stroke it smoothly across. It (fragments of blade), which
is not surprising that it delivers remains on the steel after honing.
a particularly fine result. The
average lifespan of the steel is
shorter, because the diamond
coating wears off over time.

CARING FOR KNIVES 45

 honing on a steady steel
This method is best for beginners. Don’t be discouraged if you start by
blunting your knives—it happens to everyone. Persevere, work through
it, and you will soon be able to maintain a sharp edge on a blade.

1 With one hand, hold the steel (a round steel is shown

here) at 90° to the work surface on a cloth, to keep it
from slipping. Take the knife firmly in the other hand
2 Draw the blade steadily down the steel, pulling the
knife toward you so that the cutting edge travels
across the steel. Maintain the blade at an angle of
and place the heel of the blade at the top of the steel. 10–20° (according to its size, see p42) throughout.

3 Aim to finish the first pass with the tip of the blade
at the bottom of the steel, to ensure that all of the
cutting edge on one side has been drawn across the
4 Repeat steps 1 to 3 (above and left) with the other
side of the blade, keeping a steady pressure and
consistent angle between the blade and steel. Repeat
steel. Pull the tip smoothly off the base of the steel. the whole process until the cutting edge is honed.

46 KNIFE SKILLS: THE BASICS

 freehand honing
The more you practice this method, the more polished and relaxed
you will become. Again, the angle at which you present the knife to the
steel is vital—a clanking sound indicates that the angle is incorrect.

To begin, hold the steel (an oval steel is shown here) Holding the knife firmly, draw the blade swiftly
1 firmly in one hand. Place the heel of the blade at the
top of the steel, with the spine toward your body, at
2 down and across the steel. Take care to maintain a
constant angle between the blade and the steel. Finish
an angle of 20° (according to its size, see p42). the stroke by pulling the tip off the base of the steel.

3 Place the other side of the

blade on the other side of the
steel, so that its spine faces away
from you, and repeat steps 1 and
2 (see above) to complete the first
pass. Repeat until the cutting edge
is honed sufficiently.
Some expert butchers twist the
steel as they draw the blade along
it, to offer up a clean part of the
steel constantly to the blade.

47