Low Budget CNC: Instructables
Low Budget CNC: Instructables
Low Budget CNC: Instructables
by nicengineering
This is the third iteration of my low budget CNC router design, which I began working on when I was in need of a
cheap CNC machine some years ago. The idea behind this machine, is that it should be cheap and simple,
making it possible for people on a low budget (like me being a student) to build a CNC machine using only a few
tools. For that reason most of the parts can be found in a regular hardware store, and the design is slimmed down
to requiring only the truly necessary parts.
It should be possible to keep costs below 200 USD including everything from nuts, to cable sleeves and CNC
controller.
In this instructable I will do my best to explain how I made this machine, so that you can do one on your own!
Detailed bill of materials, files for 3D printing and drawings are available in this instructable. I have spent some
time on drawing the machine in Fusion360, making it possible to take a closer look on the construction.
Disclaimer
A CNC machine is not a toy, be careful when building and using it! I can not be held responsible for injury you
might suffer while building the machine or when using it. Nor can I be held responsible for damage that might be
inflicted upon any hardware used in this build. Even though I have put a lot of effort and time into this, there might
still be missing things in the BOM and faults in my drawings or descriptions - please write me if you find such
things.
If you can agree to the terms above, feel free to build and carve!
Features
The BOM includes everything I used for this build! Lengths of pipes are very dependent on how deep
Details about the wooden and 3D printed parts can you drill the holes for them in the wood. Wire lengths
be obtained from the 3D model. Here stl files for are also dependent on how you wire the machine up.
printing can also be exctracted through Fusion 360.
Besides the parts listed in the BOM documents, you a cordless drill. Holes for the plumping pipe was done
will need the wooden parts. They are made out of 16 with a flat wood drill, of an apporpiate size. As some
mm MDF and painted before assembly. The details of parts are 3D printed, you will need access to such a
these parts can be obtained from the 3D model. machine. However, It is not strictly necessary to 3D
print parts. You will be able to make alternatives
Tools without a 3D printer.
http://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F1I/0VLP/IYOQLJEK/F1I0VLPIYOQLJEK.ods
(https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/F1I/0VLP/IYOQLJEK/F1I0VLPIYOQLJEK.ods)
Step 2: 3D model
I have spent some time on drawing the model in 3D. I And finally the Nut Covers are found here:
have done most of the things myself, but I have used
a couple of GrabCAD resources in the model: Nut Cover
AC Plug And finally the link for the complete model as shown,
is found here:
Emergency Stop
Fusion 360 model
608 Bearing
Step 3: Assembly
The pipes are both used as linear rails and for evident from the pictures. Measurements of wooden
keeping the machine together. The pipes are located parts and holes in both wooden parts and aluminum
in holes drilled in the wooden pieces to fix their angles, can be found in the 3D model. The aluminum
position. The holes are drilled approximately half way angles are seated in the wooden pieces, where a 1
through the wood (i.e. 8 mm) and a center hole of 8 mm deep groove is carved as can be seen from the
mm is drilled for the threaded rod. Threaded rod is pictures below. The groove is also present in the 3D
located inside the pipes, keeping the machine model, where measurements can be taken.
together and partly fixing the pipes. This should be
For running the machine I use GRBL. It has a lot of you try to increase acceleration or speed, you might
features, it's open source, gives you an USB interface need more torque, i.e. you have to give the motors a
(in contrast to common CNC controllers) and runs on higher current (thereby heating up the drivers). I have
Arduino UNO. adjusted the current to a level where I do not have to
add active cooling to the setup.
I have only done light tuning of speed and
acceleration, so there might be something to gain My settings you can see here,
here. But it's a balance between current and speed. If
I had a bit of a struggle with noise on the limit switch channels of the cheap GRBL shield I bought. It didn't help to
use the NC contact set of the switches, so it's a noise issue. Therefore I placed 100 nF caps between GND and
each channel to get rid of this.
I hope it's possible to put togehter the pieces from the 3D model, BOM, pictures and this short instructable. Feel
free to comment on the instructable and/or the design.