Tailoring

Training Manual
This training manual is for training those women who have decided to start and run a
'Tailoring shop'. The duration of training is seven days and having five hours a day. A
trained tailor or a tailoring skill instructor should be invited to guide the trainees, as a
large part of this training contains demonstrations and practical activities.
Introduction
Sewing or tailoring refers to all the activities involved in creating a finished garment from the
beginning to the end. This includes measurements of the person for who the garment is being
made, cutting the fabric, stitching it, adding designs and embroideries as desired, pressing it
and ensuring a perfect fit at the end.
Sewing requires an eye for design, knowledge of how to select and use the correct tools for
stitching, both by hand and by machines, knowledge of different kinds of fabrics and the care
required while stitching them, and also how to take correct measurements to ensure a perfect
fit.
A good tailor is always in demand. If one can master the skill and have patience, she can start
her own business and gain a good profit out of it.

Congratulation! You have decided to start and run a 'Tailoring' shop. You are most welcome
for this training. During this training, you will learn the basic skills to operate a sewing
machine, to handle tools for stitching and take measurement, make layout & patterns, learn
cutting fabrics, sew various designed garments to meet customer satisfactions.
The main objectives of the training
• To provide basic information about running a sewing machine and handling
stitching tools.
• To provide training about measurement, layout design and cutting of fabrics.
• To provide training about accuracy in joining, reinforcing and decorating garments
or parts of garments.
• To provide information about how to deal with customer and maximizing the sales.
• To provide information about how to procure machines for your shop
• To provide information about making a budget & business plan for tailoring shop.
• To provide information about keeping track of money

An outline of the training

Session Detail Content Time Method
DAY 1
Session 1 -Welcoming the participants 0.5 hour -Explanation
-Getting to know each other -Interaction
-Introducing the 7-day training
-Sharing of objectives of the training
Session 2 -Tools & materials for tailoring 1 hour -Explanation
-Demonstration

Session 3 Commonly used tailoring terms 1 hour - Explanation

-Interaction
Session 4 -About sewing machine 2.5 hours -Explanation
-Parts of a sewing machine -Demonstration
-Precautions on using sewing
machines
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 -Caring & maintenance of
sewing machine

DAY 2
Session 5 -looking and analyzing the cross list 1 hours -Explanation
-Demonstration
-Types of needles and threads
-Hand sewing needles
-Machine needles
-Sewing threads
Session 6 -Types of stitches 1 hour -Demonstration
-Practice
Session 7 -Threading Techniques and thread 3 hours -Demonstration
tension -Activity 'Practicing
- Manual threading various stiches'
-Using an auto threader
- Minor problems,
adjustments and repairs
DAY 3
Session 8 -looking and analyzing the cross list 1.5 hours -Interaction
-Demonstration
- Taking accurate measurement of -Practicing measurement
the customer
Session 9 - Learning fabric cutting 2 hours -Demonstration
- Preparing paper pattern -Explanation
-Fabric layout and cutting
-Clipping and notching curve

Session - Learning shaping techniques 1.5 hours -Demonstration

10 -Sewing tuck -Interaction
-Stitching Darts -Explanation
-Pleats
DAY 4
Session -looking and analyzing the cross list 1 hour -Interaction
11 -Learning attaching pocket -Demonstration
-Practice
Session - Installation of sleeves 1.5 hours -Demonstration
12 -Practice
Session -Learning seam technique 1.5 hours -Demonstration
13 -Practice
Session Attaching zipper to a garment 1 hours -Demonstration
14 -Practice
DAY 5
Session -looking and analyzing the cross list 1.5 hour -Interaction
15 - Designing Input: New fashionable -Demonstration
design -Activity: I will learn new
design
Session - Financing your business 1hours -Demonstration
16

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 -How to procure better sewing -Activity: Financing my
machines for your shop tailoring shop
Session - Strategies for maximizing sales 2 hours -Demonstration
17 - Activity: My marketing
strategies to maximize
sales
Session Preparation for field visits 0.5 hours -Role play
18 -Discussion
DAY 6
Session - Visiting and talking with tailoring 1.5 hours -Visiting field in pairs
19 shop owner -Discussion
- Concluding the learning of the day -Individual works
DAY 7
Session -looking and analyzing the cross list 0.5 hours -Explanation
20 -Sharing the learnings from the field -Interaction
-Presentation
Session - Making a budget 1.5 hours -Explanation
21 -Interaction
-Presentation
Session - Making a business plan for my 1.5 hours - Explanation
22 tailoring shop -Discussion
Session - Keeping track of my money 1 hour - Explanation
23 -Discussion
-Presentations
Session - Concluding the training 0.5 hour -Interaction
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Day 1
Session 1
Welcoming the participants
• The trainer will welcome the participants and register them for the training.

Getting to know each other

• The participants will introduce themselves by telling their names.
• The participants will tell why they chose to do 'tailoring' as their small business.
• They can share if they have any previous experiences or skill on this trade.
• Participants can ask questions to each other to know more about themselves.
Introducing the 7-day training
• The trainer will share the whole 7-day training programme with the participants.
• The trainer will encourage participants to ask any questions regarding the program.
• The trainer will introduce the 'Check List' which has been made by her/him beforehand.
It contained the list of all the things that are to be learnt during these 7 days and name
of participants. The trainer will instruct participant to put a cross mark (X) after
finishing each activity/session. The 'Check List' will be analyzed at the starting of each
day's training.

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Sharing the objectives of the training
• The trainer will share the objectives of the training with the participants.

Session 2
Tools and Materials for sewing/tailoring
Apart from threads and needles there are so many other tools used in the process of making a
garment. Here the participants will learn about the many different tools that are needed and
how to use them for sewing job.

Types of tools:
Tailoring tools can be classified into several categories. These are:
• Sewing and Embroidery tools:
Hand sewing needles, Machine sewing needles, Sewing threads (cotton, nylon, silk,
metallic, bobbin, designer thread etc.), pins, thimbles, bodkin, stiletto etc.

• Cutting tools:
a. Bent handle shears; especially used for cutting large fabrics on a table or cutting
clothes after marking for sewing dresses. Their angled blade and handle make it easy
to cut at an angle. This should not use for any other purpose than cutting clothes.
b. General purpose shears; more general-purpose scissors and are used to cut paper,
leather, snip thread etc.
c. Sewing scissors/Tailor’s scissors/Trimmers. These are used to cut threads,
embellishments from the cloth.

a b c

d. Thread nippers and clippers; is a special type of cutter that is used for cutting
trailing threads and seems.
e. Pinking shears; These shears have a serrated, jagged or saw tooth blade that allows it
to cut a zigzag edge. These are used to cut seems.
f. Button hole scissors; This is used for making the button hole with a right length.

d e f

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• Measuring tools; It includes Tape Measure to measure body and
clothes, Clear ruler to mark on clothes to cut in a right size, Sewing
gauge, Chalk skirt hem marker, L-Square
• Marking tools; Tailors chalk, Tracing wheel and tracing paper
• Ironing tools; Iron, Ironing board, Press cloth, Ironing pad
• Miscellaneous tools; Orange stick, cutting table, Loop turner (pic- 1 & 2); It is used to
turn a sewn tube of fabric inside out. Seam ripper (Pic-3); it needs to open up or rip out
some stitches, this tool has a sharp-edged hook that lets you do so easily and neatly. Awl-
(Pic-4); it is used to make holes right on a thick fabric or leather. In order to make small
round holes.

1. 2. 3 4.

Care and storage of tools

Here are some tips to take care of these tools:
a. Never use your fabric cutting scissors to cut any other material.
b. Always wipe the scissors clean after cutting to remove lint, etc. with a dry soft cloth.
c. Oil the screw on your scissor regularly to ensure it is not getting stuck.
d. Get them sharpened at least once a year.
e. Fold away things like ironing stands, pads and clothes after use so that they stay clean and
out of the way.
h. Always put pins on a pin cushion or in a box.
i. Always insert needles through a piece of paper to make it easier to retrieve them.
j. Always roll your threads up so that they do not get entangled.
k. Store your professional iron carefully and keep the plate clean.

Activity: Showing Tools and Equipment

• The trainer will arrange the tools and equipment needed for tailoring before the
training.
• The trainer will demonstrate all the tools and equipment he/she has arranged for the
training and explain the purposes of each tool and how to handle them.

Session 3
Commonly used tailoring terms
Here are some of the most commonly used tailoring terms:
a. Alteration – It means changing a garment to make it fit for the purpose it is designed
for.
b. Baste – Basting is a loose and easy stitch that is used to join two or more pieces of
fabric together. It is used temporarily to keep sew the fabrics in right place.
c. Ease –This is essentially an allowance that should be added to all core body
measurements (bust, waist and hips) to ensure that the item will fit well.
d. Edge stitching – This type of stitch appears as a row on the edge of the fabric and
typically with a thread that matches the exact color of the fabric.

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 e. Seam allowance –A seam allowance refers to the space between the stitching and the
edge of the fabric. Some items will require a greater seam allowance than others so
make sure you get those measurements exact!
f. Finger pressing – This is to open a seam allowance by finger-press/by using thumbs.
g. Give – If a fabric has ‘give’ it will have a high amount of elasticity. Lycra for
example, has more give than denim. 'Give' is a term that can be used for both fabric
and thread. The opposite of 'give' is stability.
h. Grading – It’s important to produce a precise seam allowance; you don’t want to
create unnecessary bulk. Grading is the process of trimming the allowance to a
smaller width.
i. Hand – Hand of the fabric means the feel and drape of the fabric; how the fabric feels
to touch.
j. Notch – Notch basically means making a small cut in the seam. This allows the fabric
to bend slightly at the corners, removing harsh lines from the overall shape.
k. Selvage –It is simply the edge of the raw fabric that you might buy at the store. This
is where the company and fabric details are written.
l. Top stitch – It is a row of stitch, which is visible.
m. Gathering- It is a technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the
longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. Multiple rows of gathering are called
shirring.
n. Interfacing-It is a common term for a variety of materials used on the unseen or
wrong side of fabrics in sewing.
o. Lining –It is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material that provides a neat finish;
conceals seam allowances, interfacing, and construction details; and allows a garment
to slip on and off easily.
p. Patchwork -It is a form of needlework or craft that involves sewing together small
pieces of fabric and stitching them together into a larger design.
q. Pattern - In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is an original garment from which
other garments of a similar style are copied. It is the paper or cardboard templates
from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting and
assembling.
r. Piping - It is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric
inserted into a seam to define the edges or style lines of a garment or other textile
object.
s. Placket- It is an opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck or sleeve
of a garment. Plackets allow clothing to be put on or removed easily.
t. Stomacher – Also called a placard. It is a slit to allow access to a hanging pocket or a
petticoat or skirt pocket.
u. Pleat or Plait - It is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and
securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide
piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.
v. Pocket- It is a bag- or envelope-like holder either fastened to or inserted in an article
of clothing to hold small items.

Activity:
• The trainer will explain some of the common terms used in tailoring trade by showing
examples.
• The trainer will ask the participants if there are any other common terms that used in
tailoring.

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Session 4
About sewing machines

There are many different types of sewing machine available on the market, ranging from
basic designs with only a small selection of stitches to computerized models that can
automatically stitch detailed embroidery designs from a picture or photograph. The primary
job of a sewing machine is always to create stitches, either to hold multiple pieces of cloth
together to decorate the fabric or to create a garment. The way that the sewing machine
accomplishes this task, determines its classification. Mostly sewing machines are divided
into different types as per their control mechanism, bed and stitches.
According to the control mechanism: Manually controlled machines, Semi-Automatic
Machines, Automatic & Robotic Machines
According to stitches: Flat-bed sewing machines, Long-arm sewing machines, Cylinder-bed
sewing machines, Post-bed sewing machines, Feed-off-the-arm sewing machines.
According to bed: Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine, over lock Sewing Machine, Flat lock
sewing machine, feed off the Arm, Button Attaching Machine, Button Hole Machine, Bartack
machine, Zigzag sewing machine.

Parts of a sewing machine

You may have or planning to have different kind of sewing machine as described below but
most functions are near to similar in machines of various makes and models. It is always
worth checking your machine’s manual to know the appropriate function of each part of your
sewing machine. Here are some general descriptions about various parts of a sewing
machine:

1. Foot pressure dial used to adjust foot pressure when sewing lightweight or
heavyweight fabrics or bulky layers; however, a machine with automatic foot pressure
will be adequate for the average sewing project.
2. Thread take-up lever moves up and down with the needle and controls the amount
of thread needed for stitching.
3. Bobbin thread guide with tension disc takes the thread from the spool to the bobbin
winding spindle. This guide has a tension disc, so the bobbin thread is wound tightly.
4. Speed control enables you to limit the maximum stitching speed for more even
stitching.
5. Thread guides are several of these along the threading run to take the thread in the
right direction.
6. Bobbin winder spindle used when filling up the bobbin with thread.
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7. Stitch width dial controls the distance the needle moves from side to side when
sewing zigzag or other decorative stitches.
8. Stitch length dial used for adjusting the length of your stitches – a machine
that allows a good range of stitch lengths will be more versatile in the long run.
9. Stitch selector dial used to select the machine’s built-in stitches.
10. Reverse stitch lever allows you to sew in reverse. On some models reverse stitch is
selected by turning the stitch length dial (8) to a minus number.
11. Drop feed lever lowers the feed dog below the needle plate to put it out of action
when free-motion sewing. Alternatively, it may be possible to temporarily fix a plate
over the feed dog.
12. Knee lifter socket is where the knee lifter (if one is provided) plugs in.
13. Hook cover release button releases the hook cover plate to access the bobbin (top-
loading machines only).
14. Flatbed is a large flat sewing area. On some machines part of this may detach to
reveal the free arm.
15. Hook cover plate covers the bobbin in its casing (only found on a top-loading
bobbin machine).
16. Needle plate marked with common seam allowances as a guide to accurate sewing. It
can be removed by unfastening tiny screws to clean the bobbin casing, feed dog and
hook race.
17. Thread cutter is used for cutting the needle thread.
18. Tension dial is used to adjust the tension of the needle thread for a perfectly balanced
stitch.

19. Foot control socket connect the plug here for the foot pedal that controls the stitching
speed.
20. Power switch turns the power and the machine’s built-in sewing light on or off.
21. Hand wheel is used to raises and lowers the needle. Always turn the hand wheel
counterclockwise.
22. Thread cutter is used to cut the bobbin thread when the bobbin is fully wound.
23. Bobbin winder stopper is pushed against the bobbin when winding begins. When the
bobbin is full it pops back and stops the bobbin winding mechanism.
24. Carrying handle is used to carry the machine by its handle.
25. Thread spool pins hold the thread for the needle and can be set vertically or
horizontally.
26. Presser foot lifting lever is a lift to slide the fabric beneath, or when changing the
presser foot.

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 27. Thread guides take the needle thread towards the eye of the needle.

28. Presser bar is surrounded with the foot holder clips, held in place by the
thumbscrew.
29. Presser foot thumbscrew releases the entire presser foot holder.
30. Presser foot holder clips onto the presser bar – on some machines the foot and the
foot holder are all one piece.
31. Presser foot holds the fabric firmly against the needle plate and feed dog so that the
stitches form properly.
32. The needle carries the upper thread down to meet the lower thread, so it needs to be
heavy enough to pierce the fabric but not so big that it leaves an unsightly hole. A
worn, dull or damaged needle can cause stitch problems, such as skipped stitches or
puckering seams.
33. Needle clamp screw is being loosening to remove a needle; tighten to secure a
needle in position.

Safety rules of using a sewing machine

Safety is important to everyone and it is personal responsibility of a tailor to keep herself
away from hazards. Hazards that may be encountered when conducting sewing activities
include:
• Cuts and injuries from sharp edges, knife blades, scissors and pins
• Finger injuries while sewing
• Eye injury from broken needles
• Eye strain from poor lighting

Things to notice before starting work in a sewing machine

• Always inspect the machine before starting to work. Be sure it is clean and threaded
correctly, with no loose threads on the pulley belt.
• When sewing avoid loose fitting sleeves, sweaters, jewelry, ties, and ribbons. If your
hair is long, tie it back.
• Always practice proper posture to reduce fatigue, help prevent accidents and increase
efficiency. If possible, adjust the chair height so that your feet rest flat on the floor.
• Do not pull your chair forward or toward while operating the machine.
• Always keep your head above the table.
• Keep your feet off the treadle when you are setting or threading the needle.
• Do not touch a sewing machine whilst another person is operating it.
• Never operate the sewing machine at high speed.

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Maintenance of a sewing machine

A few hours of sewing will cause fuzz and lint to build up under the needle plate of the
sewing machine. The majority of the problems that occur in the sewing machines are usually
because of their poor or no maintenance. Here are some basic maintenance tips that can help
you to run your machine smoothly and for a longer time.

• Oiling: Keep the sewing machine well oiled.

• Cleaning: It is important to keep the machine as free of lint as possible.
• Shining: Wipe the surface of the machine with a clean, soft, damp cloth. Do not use
abrasives on your machine and do not place pieces of tape on it.
• Storage: Avoid exposing the sewing machine to extreme temperatures. Do not store it
in a room that is cold, hot, or humid. Cover the machine when not in use to keep free
from dust.

Some bad habits that ruin a sewing machine and lower its performance
Sometimes it is not a technical fault in the sewing machine that makes thing difficult in a
sewing machine. Rather, it is your habits that make things more problematic while practicing
or using a simple stitch.
Here are few things you should avoid:
• Using inappropriate needle according to the cloth being stitched
• Using a low-quality thread or a thread with an improper thickness, that doesn’t suit
the fabric you are working on.
• Setting up the tension discs too loose or too tight.
• Not cleaning and lubricating the machine for months.
• Stitching up very thick or hard fabric that may exert extra pressure on internal parts.
• Keeping your machines uncovered, outside or in a dusty area.
You should make sure you take care of your machine like a precious property and not just an
ordinary thing.

Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about various parts of sewing machines and how to take
care of it.
• The trainer will ask the participants to express their though on today's training
sessions.

Day 2
Session 5
Looking and analyzing the Cross List
• Each participant will look at the Cross List and discuss about progress of the training.
Types of needles and threads
Hand sewing needles
Hand sewing needles are available in varying sizes with varying points. They guide the thread
through fabric when you are hand sewing.

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Hand sewing needles are not expensive. Thick heavy needles would be used on fibers
that are thick and difficult to sew through. The finer the fabric, the finer the needle you
would choose. Specialty needles are rarely used. A curved needle is not for sewing
circles. It would commonly be used for hand sewing upholstery, when a straight needle
would not fit.
The most commonly used hand sewing needles are called 'sharps'. Sharps have a
medium length (in comparison with all available needles), have a round eye for the
thread.

Machine needles
Even though it looks very simple, a needle is a complex piece of sewing
equipment and has several parts that will vary across different types of needles
to give you optimal stitching experience. Here are the different parts of a needle:
1. Shank- Top of needle that inserts into machine; most often has round front
and flat back, which seats needle in right position.
2. Shaft-Body of needle below shank. Shaft thickness determines needle size.
3. Front Groove-Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle"
thread for smooth stitches.
4. Point- Needle tip that penetrates fabric to pass thread to bobbin-hook and form
stitch. Shape of point varies among needle types.
5. Scarf-Indentation at back of needle. A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by
allowing bobbin hook to loop thread more easily. A shorter scarf requires a more perfectly
timed machine.
6. Eye- Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. Needle size and type
determine size and shape of eye.

Recognizing needles and understanding the needle numbering system:

Needles have two varying features- their shape and their weight.
The chart shows the two most commonly used numbering system
for needles. Larger the number of the needle, heavier and thicker
the needle.
Here are some standard needles and details on their shape and the
kind of fabric they are most suitable for.
1. Universal needle- As the name suggests it is the safest needle for
almost all types of fabrics. They are available in a wide range of
sizes from 60/8 to 120/19. They have a slightly rounded tip and a
very long scarf to allow the fabric to travel easily. They can be used
for synthetics, cottons or wools.
2. Ball-point and stretch needles- This needle has a more rounded tip and works
best on heavier cottons and knits. Since it works by going through the fibres rather than
piercing the fabric they can be used for materials like lycra or spandex. These are available in
sizes ranging from 70/10 to 100/16.
3. Microtext and sharp needles-As the name suggests these needles work by piercing the
fabric. That is why they have a sharp edge. They are used when precise stitching is required
e.g. for edges and pin tucks and are used on silks, heirloom delicate fabrics, synthetic leather
or finely woven fabrics. They will not unravel the fabric. They are available in sizes ranging
from 60/8 to 90/14 (which means they are never too thick or heavy)
4. Leather needle- as the name suggests is used for stitching natural leather (it is not to be
used for synthetic leather) it has a head which is like an arrow head and it works by cutting
through the leather. It can be also used for very heavy faux leather and heavy non-woven
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fabrics. Since it leaves a permanent cut it is to be sued with great care and accuracy and
should not be used on wool or silk. Those fabrics will unravel. These are available in sizes
ranging from 80/12 to 110/18.
5. Denim or Jean needle- Used for denims and very heavy fabrics such as canvas. These
needles need to be weighty and pierce through the fabric, so they have a very sharp tip and a
heavy thick scarf to give them weight. They eye is large to allow the use of thick threads.
They are available in sizes 80/12-110/18 so as you can see, they are never very fine.
6. Metallic needle- you may not be using it very often, but it is a highly specialized needle
used for metallic threads. It has a very large eye to allow metallic threads to pass through and
comes generally only in one size 80/12.
7. Self-threading needles- As the name suggests they are designed to allow easy threading.
They have a slot on one side to allow the thread to be slipped into the eye. Ranging in size
from 80/12 to 90/14 and is more of a general-purpose needle.
8. Machine embroidery needles- These come with a large eye and a large scarf that prevents
the thread from shredding or breaking. These are best used when you are using embroidery
threads or synthetic threads. Sizes range from 70/10 to 90/14.

Sewing threads
There is a wide variety of threads available in the market today ranging from the simple
cotton thread in white to designer threads that have a combination of cotton and polyester and
are dyed in variegated colors. Here are the kinds of threads most commonly used for hand
sewing and their respective application. Some of the example of threads are:
Cotton thread- This is found most commonly in stitching items store and is suitable for most
kind of simple sewing such as seams, hems. However simple cotton thread cannot be used for
fabric that has a lot of give or stretch ability because it will snap if stretched too much.
Within Cotton thread the various types are: All- purpose cotton, Standard cotton, Cotton
perle, Cotton a border, Flower thread, Quilting thread etc.
Polyester threads- These are suitable for both hand and machine sewing projects where the
fabric has a lot of give. This thread is suitable for fabrics with stretch in them and is
especially good for woven synthetics, knits and stretch fabrics. The appearance of this thread
will be waxy or shiny, not matte like plain cotton. The different kinds of Polyester threads
are: All-purpose thread and invisible thread.
Heavy duty-Heavy duty thread is ideal for heavy duty fabrics, such as those used in soft
furnishings like upholstery and window dressings, vinyl, and coat fabrics. This is usually
around size 40 and can be made from polyester, cotton-wrapped polyester, or cotton.
Rayon threads-Rayon embroidery thread works well to create flat stitches where
cotton embroidery thread might stand too high.
Nylon threads-This is a strong thread that is suitable for using on light to medium
weight synthetic fabrics. It is a fine thread that can pass easily through the fabric without
damaging it.
Silk threads-Silk is an excellent thread for sewing because it is strong,
flexible and does the least amount of damage to the cloth when passing through it. It is ideal
for sewing on silk and wool, and for basting all fabrics. The various kinds of silk threads
available are: Silk floss, Twisted silk, Stranded silk, Silk ribbon etc.
Wool threads- Wool threads tend to be used for embroidery projects and for making the
seams of blankets by using blanket stitch. Wool threads work best with heavy fabrics, such as
wool, or canvas. The various types of wool fabrics are Persian wool, Tapestry wool and
Crewel wool.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about various types of needles and threads.
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Session 6
Types of Stiches
Here the participants will learn about the most commonly used types of tailoring and
decorative stitches.

Here are some examples of the most basic stitches that you will use when preparing the
garment for stitching, actually stitching it, adding special features such as laces, trims and
button holes etc. and then finishing the garment, especially seams, edgings etc. The manual
sewing machine requires special skills to execute different kinds of stitches, but most modern
machines come with pre-fed stitch styles that the computer helps to control and create. Every
category of sewing machine produces a specific type of stitch depending on the number of
needles, loppers and threads which combine to construct the stitch. Each of these
configurations is known as stitch types and they are classified according to their main
characteristics. There are about 70 types of stitch can be seen in common practice but among
them 18 to 20 types of stitch are used in garments manufacturing industries. In tailoring
purposes there are only two to three types of stitch are used.
Intra-looping – It is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by
the same thread.
Interloping – It is passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a
different thread.

Interlacing – It is passing of a thread over or around another thread or loop of another

thread.

Single thread chain stitch- Stitches under this class are produced with single thread by intra-
looping technique. All the stitches under this class are unsecured and used for temporary
purposes. Starting and finishing end of the stitch under this class needs bar-taking or back
stitching to secure the stitches. Most common uses in blind stitching, hemming, button
attaching, button holing, gathering, temporary positioning of garment components,
etc.

A straight stitch- A straight stitch is a most commonly used stitch in sewing. A straight stitch
is a strong stitch that is straight with a thread on top (the upper thread) and a thread on the
bottom (the bobbin thread), with the threads interlocking at regular intervals.
Adjustments to a straight stitch are the stitch length. A very small short stitch is tight and
difficult to remove while the longer the stitch the easier it is to remove. The longest possible
straight stitch is considered a basting stitch which is meant to be removed. When a straight
stitch is puckering your fabric, it can usually be resolved by lengthening the stitch length.
Tension adjustments are available for the upper thread on the sewing machine and by way of
a screw on the bobbin case.
You can use the straight stitch for a number of applications, depending on
the length of the stitch you use. For example, for basting or gathering you
would use a long stitch as opposed to a short stitch for a seam on a blouse.

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Zigzag stitch- A zigzag stitch is similar to a continuous row of the letter W,
with each w connected to the w on each side of it. The most common use of
a zigzag stitch is to enclose raw edges as a seam finish. As a seam finish,
one edge of the stitch is sewn off the edge of the fabric so that the threads of
the fabric are enclosed within the threads of the zigzag stitch and the fabric is unable to fray
because of the zigzag stitch.
The length and width of a zigzag stitch can be adjusted. The shorter the stitch length the
narrower the W formation will be. The stitch width adjusts how wide the W formation will
be.
Zigzag stitches that are very close together (a very short stitch length) are called a satin stitch
and are used for appliqué. Zigzag stitches stretch more than a straight stitch, so they are good
to use on stretchy materials or elastic. If you don’t have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch
to finish your seams. You can also use your zigzag stitch for buttonholes, but most machines
have a special stitch just for that.
Overlock stitch-Many of the overlock-type stitches on today’s sewing machines are designed
to stitch and finish seams in one step, simulating the overlock stitches that you see on ready-
to-wear garments.
Over lock, also known as “serging” or “serger stitch”, can be formed with one to
four threads, one or two needles, and one or two loopers. Over lock sewing
machines are usually equipped with knives that trim or create the edge
immediately in front of the stitch formation. Household and industrial overlock
machines are commonly used for garment seams in knit or stretchy fabrics, for
garment seams where the fabric is light enough that the seam does not need to be
pressed open, and for protecting edges against raveling.
Machines using two to four threads are most common, and frequently one machine
can be configured for several varieties of overlock stitch. Overlock machines with
five or more threads usually make both a chain stitch with one needle and one
looper, and an overlock stitch with the remaining needles and loopers. This combination is
known as a “safety stitch”.

Decorative stitch -Decorative stitches can be sewn just like the regular stitch. They are
generally wider than regular stitches. Decorative sewing does the function of basic sewing,
joining two fabrics finishing the edge of the fabric or stitching the fabric with pleats or darts.
It holds the fabric under the sewing foot and feed dogs feeding
the fabric in the right sequence. Decorative stitches fall into two
basic categories: closed, satin-type stitches and open, tracery-
type stitches. You can program many newer machines to
combine these stitches with other stitches, elongate the designs
for a bolder decorative effect, and even stitch someone’s name.

Cover stitch- A cover stitch is basically 2 or 3 needle bobbin-less top stitching

that provides some elasticity. It doesn’t have to be used on an overlocked
(serger) seam but usually is. The back side of the seam forms a ladder pattern or
similar configuration joining the lines of stitching to and from. This is similar to
the effect you’d get on a home sewing machine with a double needle. The latter
differs from a true double needle because these have two bobbins, so their lines
of stitching are not joined on the back side from side to side. The top looks like

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parallel rows of straight stitching and the underside looks like serger loops which cover the
turned down raw edge. Sometimes the "wrong" or loopy side is sewn on top as a design
feature, especially in activewear.
Flatlock Stitch-Unlike an overlock, there are no layers to the underside
in a flatlock stitch, the seam is butted together. On a flatlock, there is no
seam allowance with layers folding to the underside. Think of it this way,
in the application you’re describing there is no seam allowance per se
because the cut edges of fabric are butted against each other and joined
flat in a single layer with thread. The flatlock stitching on the top and bottom joins the two
butted pieces.
Blind stitch-A blind stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the
stitch thread is invisible, or nearly invisible. A sewing machine can also create a blind hem.
In this case, a specialty presser foot is needed. A zigzag stitch technique may be used with a
sewing machine to create a blind stitch.
Stay stitching- Staystitching is invisible in finished product but is part of the
hidden bones that give it shape and strength, and a neat symmetrical finish. It is a
row of stitching within the seam allowance on curved or angled cut edges. It can
typically be found on necklines, around the armhole and on bias grain lines such
as a V-neck. Stay stitching means to sew a row of stitches on a single piece of
fabric to help it keep its shape. It's useful on curved or diagonal edges that may otherwise
stretch out during the sewing process. Stay stitching is also helpful on folds of fabric, such as
tucks, to help hold them in place while you attach other pieces.
Staystitching helps to prevent cut edges from stretching during the construction process.
Without it, you may find one seam stretches more than another and they no longer match. Or
a neckline can stretch and gape, or not match its facing.
Basting- In sewing, to tack or baste is to make quick, temporary stitching intended to be
removed. Tacking is used in a variety of ways: To temporarily hold a seam or trim in place
until it can be permanently sewn, usually with a long running stitch made by hand or machine
called a tacking stitch or basting stitch. The purpose of basting is to temporarily hold fabric in
place until the permanent stitching is in place. Example: Baste a seam that will later hold a
zipper. For a center back dress zipper, the back of the dress is made in two halves. A center
back seam is sewn from the bottom of the dress up to the point where the zipper will be
installed. From that point up to the top, the seam is basted. This holds the seam edges in place
until the zipper in installed. The basting is removed once the final stitching is completed. See
the examples of hand basting image (1) and machine basting image (2).

1 2

Choosing the stiches- where and when

A tailor needs to learn how to select appropriate stitches to work with the fabrics because
different fabrics have different weights, stretch ability, different weave etc. in order to

15
minimize damage to the fabric and to ensure it stays secure. Let’s learn little more detail on
what kind of a stitch is appropriate in which kinds of fabrics.

A. Cottons-are the easiest fabric to work with. You can use almost any kind of stitch when
working to create a garment with them. A straight stitch is most commonly and in
professional garments the edge maybe completed using a serger. If the cotton is very
heavy, it is good to use longer stitches and you may choose to do even a double seam.
B. Knits and woolens- these require a lockstitch, an over lock or a cover seam. The
important thing is to ensure that the ends of the fabric are tightly secured so that they do
not come apart and unravel. When stitching you can use a simple straight stitch.
C. Silks- As all of us know silks are very delicate, so it is best to use smaller stitches with
them and also when stitching it is important to hold the fabric firmly in front and behind
the needle. This will ensure that it does not curl up or pucker.
D. Polyesters and elastics- It is recommended to use a zig-zag stitch with these to ensure
that the elasticity is maintained and there is room for movement. It is important to secure
the edges of these materials just like you do for knits.

Session 7
Threading Techniques and thread tension
Most machines thread in more or less the same way, with only a few minor variations. The
thread must travel from the spool, through the thread take-up lever and the tension plates to
the needle, via a variable number of thread guides along the way.

Manual threading
Raise the presser foot and raise the needle to its highest position, either by turning the
hand wheel towards you or by pressing the up/down needle button. Place a spool of
thread on the spool pin. Push on a spool holder to hold the spool in place if one is
provided with the machine. Pull out a short length of thread.
Take the end of the thread across the top of the machine to the first thread guide and
insert the thread in the guide – it is usually shaped so you can just slide the thread in.
There will be at least one guide, maybe two or even more, leading the thread from the
spool towards the tension mechanism.
Bring the thread down the front of the machine, through the tension mechanism. This
is usually a pair of tension discs on the front of the machine with the tension dial on
top. On some machines the discs are hidden inside a channel going down the front of
the machine and the tension dial is set on top or to one side. The thread needs to go
between the two discs and over the check spring; getting the thread correctly between
these is crucial to achieve good stitching – give a little tug upwards to be sure it is
firmly in place.
From the tension mechanism, the thread needs to go to the take-up mechanism, which
is the lever on the front of the machine that goes up and down when the needle is
stitching. Take the thread through the take-up lever – usually it is shaped so you can
slide the thread in, but you may have to thread it through a large eye.
Now the thread needs to go back down the front of the machine on the left side of the
take-up lever towards the needle. Slide it through the thread guide on the front of the
machine at the bottom, and through the one just above the needle on the needle bar.
Insert the thread through the eye of the needle, in the direction indicated in the manual
– on most machines this will be from front to back. Pull the thread end through gently,
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 leaving it long enough to pull to the back so it can be secured under the foot when you
begin sewing.

Using an auto threader

Many modern machines have a semiautomatic needle threader, which can save time.
Different models may have slightly different systems, but the basic instructions are the same.
Make sure the needle is at its highest point, either by turning the hand wheel or by
pressing the up/down needle button. Press the needle threader handle with one finger;
as it comes down a tiny hook will move around and through the needle eye.
Take the thread to the needle and guide it under the plastic hook to the left of the
threader, under the tiny hook coming through the eye of the needle, and out the other
side.
Slowly release the needle threader handle so it moves back to its resting position. The
tiny hook will pull a loop of the thread through the eye as it goes. Catch the loop of
thread from the back of the needle and pull the end through.

Thread Tension
Both the top (needle) thread and the bottom (bobbin) thread are held under tension as the
machine stitches, and to achieve a perfect line of stitching the tension should be the same on
both sides of the fabric. To achieve this the tension is usually adjusted on the top thread only,
using a numbered dial. The tension on the bobbin thread can be adjusted in extreme cases by
turning a screw in the bobbin case, but most manufacturers recommend leaving the bottom
tension to the factory setting.

You adjust the top thread tension by turning a dial on the front of the machine, near the
tension plates. Normal tension for the specific model is usually highlighted on the dial in
some way, so you can return to normal easily after adjusting the tension for special
conditions.
You adjust the bottom thread tension by taking out the bobbin case and turning a small screw
on the outside.

It is important to manage the thread tension on your machine, to ensure a neat stitch. The two
types of tensions we will understand here are:

A. Upper tension- This is the tightness or the tautness of the thread that feeds from your
thread spool, tension discs and thread guide into your needle. On new machines there is a
tension dial that lets you adjust the tension of the tension discs by moving it and in older
machines there is a screw that lets you adjust the pressure that the two discs exert on the
thread passing between them. It is important to note that different tensions will be required
for different threads. The thicker the thread the lesser the tension or pressure or squeezing
required.

B. Lower tension- this refers to the tension exerted by the bobbin case on the bobbin thread
being released through it. There is a screw on the bobbin case that allows you to increase or
decrease the tension on the thread.
It is a good thumb rule to check the stitching on a spare scrap piece of cloth whenever you
use a new thread with a significantly different thickness, either in the bobbin or main spool. If
the tensions are messed up it will result in an incorrect stitch. The two main problems and
their causes are as follows:
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1. If the bobbin tension is too loose or the top tension too tight in comparison then the bobbin
thread will show on the right side of the cloth
2. If the upper tension is too loose or the bobbin tension too high in comparison it will result
in the stitching thread showing up on the wrong side of the cloth. The two must be balanced
to get an equal and even stitching. Puckering of cloth is a common result of wrong tension
settings.

How to correct the Tension problem.

Here we will learn about how to set different tensions. Try to avoid touching the bobbin
tension and try to see if you can fix the problem with just the upper tension adjustment. This
will be a temporary adjustment. For a general tension management work with a bobbin thread
and a stitching thread and a cloth of the kind you are most likely to use. Then thread the
needle and the bobbin and run a sample stitch and see if the stitches come okay. Adjust both
tensions until you get an even stitch. Once this is perfect, you need only make minor
adjustments every time you change a thread.
Also note that many times when you get an incorrect stitch the trouble may not be just with
the thread tension. You may have done any of the following:
1. Used the bobbin spindle instead of the thread spindle thus affecting the thread
feeding.
2. Not threaded the thread correctly through the thread guides
3. Not have ensured that the pressure foot is all the way down before threading
4. Also lint and dirt in the bobbin chamber or between the tension discs can affect the tension.
So, cleaning these out first is always a good idea. If you still face a problem, check to see the
condition of your needle. Damaged needles also result in problems. With experience, you will
see that different fabrics need different needles and needle plates and threads to ensure
correct stitches and prevent damage.

Minor problems, adjustments and repairs

Every sewing person faces some common problems. Generally, these can be easily resolved.
However, that will require you to have at least a basic knowledge of the moving parts of your
machine, their functions and relation to each other. Here is a handy list for you:
• Tension will not change even when the tension disc screw is moved- most of the
time this happens when there is lint or grime stuck between the tension discs.
• The top thread keeps breaking- This could be because of a damaged bobbin hook or
rough edges on the needle plate. You can use an emery board to polish the edges of
the needle plate but be careful about changing the shape of the hook tip. Another
reason could be that the top thread tension is too high.
• Needle keeps breaking- This could be because the top tension is too high, or the
needle is too small for the fabric you are using. The other reason is that the hook
timing is off. To check this, insert a new needle and move the fly wheel slowly.
Check to see that the needle tip is not rubbing against the hook as it comes up to
engage the thread.
• The bobbin thread is not getting picked up by the top thread- The bobbin hook is
what catches the top thread from the needle and intertwines it with the bobbin thread
to form a stitch. If the needle is missing the hook because the timing is off or because
the needle point is blunt or bent, then the bobbin thread will not get picked up by the
top thread. If the needle is not attached properly then too this can happen. You must
make sure that the flat side of the needle is inserted to face the hook.
• The fabric does not feed properly- There are several reasons this is happening. The
feed dogs maybe dirty and are not able to come up out of the plate to catch the cloth.
18
 The press foot may not be exerting enough downward pressure to help move the
fabric forward. Even rough edges of the needle plate can catch the fabric and prevent
it from moving forward. Check for all these aspects and you will very likely find a
solution.

Activity: Practicing various stitches

Here are 6 sheets for you to practice:
• Straight line stitching
• Zig-zag stitches
• Turning corners at right angles, left and right
• Turning other corners and points
• Sewing curves and circles

Use the sheets to practice different types of sewing. You can use several sheets of same
diagram to practice more and more. For these, you don’t even need to thread your machine.
Just sew along the paper and try to stay on the lines. The first one is the most basic. It’s just
about sewing a straight line. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line!
It’s a good habit to get into it.

• Practice sewing straight lines. Sew along each line.

Try to sew as straight as you can!

• Practice turning corners. Sew

along the line. When you get to the
corner stop with your needle down, lift
your presser foot, and pivot the paper.
Continue sewing this way until you
reach the middle.

19
• Practice sewing curve lines and corners. Sew
along each line. Sew along the curve and pivot
at each corner. Don’t forget to backstitch!

• Using the solid lines as your guide, sew 1/2” (13 cm) to
the left of each line. Don’t forget to stay stitch at the beginning
and end of each line!

• Using the solid lines as your guide, sew from

one end to other of each curve using one hand.
Don’t forget to stay stitch at the beginning and
end of each line!

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 • Practice sewing in circle. Sew along each
line as directed by arrow head. Sew along
the curve and pivot at each corner. Don’t
forget to backstitch!

Day 3
Session 8
Looking and analyzing the Cross List
Each participant will look at the Cross List and discuss about progress of the training.
Taking accurate measurement of the customer
Before starting work on a garment, it is most essential that measurements be taken of the
person for who the garment is being stitched. This will help you make a well fitted garment
and will save time by ensuring minimal alterations are required later. Measuring a person is
not very simple. Certain things have to be kept in mind while measuring and it is with
practice that you will perfect the art of measurement. Given below are some basic tips on
how to prepare for measuring, how to measure.
• Visually the body is divided into two parts- above the waist and below the waist. To
demarcate that tie a tape around the curvature of the waist of the person. This will
allow you to take other measurements accurately.
• There are two types of measurements- vertical and horizontal.
• Ensure that the person is standing in an upright posture with no slouching at the
shoulder and the legs are also straight.
• The person being measured should be wearing a relatively well-fitted garment so that
you can make out various points on their body correctly.
• If the person being measured is wearing very bulky clothes your measurements will
have unnecessary extra inches in them.
• For body measurements a measuring tape should be used, and it is important to keep a
pen and paper handy.

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 • Make sure the measuring tape is not frayed or stretched. The long metal end of the
tape is used for taking vertical measurements and the rounded metal end is used for
taking horizontal measurements.
• When you take the measurements write them down in a way that you will be able to
understand them later
• In India typically, we measure the person in inches.
• Remember that the measurements you take will not be the final measurements for
drawing on the cloth or cutting the pattern. You will be adding a few inches to each of
the measurements depending on certain standard rules and also the requirement of the
individual
• As a good tailor always keep the comfort and wish of the client in mind, ask them to
point out certain aspects like where they tie their salwar or pant, how lose do they like
the chest and waist to be. You can also ask the length of the kurta or the top you are
stitching. You can also get input on what neckline and sleeve length they require and
measure accordingly.
• Also remember that when taking measurements for a male or a female it will differ
slightly.
• When measuring lengths, make sure the measuring tape is perpendicular to the floor.
When measuring widths around your body, make sure the measuring tape is parallel
to the floor. When measuring around your body, make sure the tape is comfortably
close to body, but not tight. This will insure an accurate measurement.

Common measurements
While each piece of clothing that you stitch will require a different set of measurements,
given below is an exhaustive list of almost all possible measurements of the outer structure of
the human body. With each measurement type is a brief explanation on how to take that
measure most accurately.
• Around Collar - It is taken from the base of the neck and around. Not too tight and
not too loose.
• Shoulder width- It is taken from the base of the neck to the birth of the arm.
• Chest width- It is taken on the wider part of the chest, over the bust, from one side to
the other of the chest, starting exactly at the base of the arms.
• Back width- It is taken on the wider part of the back, from one side to the other,
starting at the base of the arm.
• Around bust- The measurement tape should go around, just below the base of the
arms. The tape has to go over the bust on the most prominent part of it, without
tightening it. NOTE: For men, girls and boys this measure is called AROUND
CHEST and it is taken in the same fashion but on the front the tape must go over the
widest part of the chest.
• Around Thorax- it is taken underneath the bust, exactly at it is base, and around the
thorax, adjusting the tape measure to the body measures.
• Around waist - It is taken exactly where that lace is tied around the waist. It must be
an exact measure.
• Shoulder to waist length (back) - This measure is taken on the back, “over” the
shoulder (exactly at the base of the neck), going down vertically along the back to the
point where the lace is tied around the waist.
• Shoulder to waist length (front) - This measure is taken on the front, “over” the
shoulder (exactly at the base of the neck), going down vertically along the front,

22
 passing it over the prominent part of the bust and to the point where the lace is tied
around the waist.
• Bust Height - It is taken on the front, “over” the shoulder, exactly at the base of the
neck, going down vertically to the tip of the bust.
• Bust separation - It is taken between the tips or more prominent parts of the bust.
(From tip to tip).
• Arm Length - It is taken along the folded arm, from the shoulder or base of the arm,
to the prominent bone of the wrist (cuffs).
• Elbow Length - it is taken from the shoulder to the tip of the elbow.
• Around arm - It is taken on the wider part of the arm, going around it completely.
• Around hip - It is to be taken tightly on the most prominent part of the gluteus or hip.
• Hip height - is to be measured on the side from the waist down to the lateral side and
equidistant to the most prominent part of gluteus.
• Measurement around half hip height- Right on the half of the previous hip height
measurement, the hip is to be measured around.
• Crotch length - This measure should be taken on the middle, front, from the waist
down to the point where you can see light between the legs.
• Total leg length - It is to be taken on the side, from the lace around the waist down to
the ankle. The tape measure should be close to the body especially on the hip.
• Inside leg length - It is taken on the front, from the light between the legs (crotch),
along the inside of the leg and down to the ankle.
• Around the leg - It is taken on the middle of the leg, on the thicker part and around it.
• Length of knee - It is to be taken on the side, from the lace around the waist and
down to the knee, keeping the tape close to the body especially at the hip.
• Total height - Person must be without shoes. It is taken from the highest part of the
head and down to the floor. We recommend that the person is against a wall when
taking this measure.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about how to take accurate measurement of the customer
before sewing garments.
• The participants will practice by measuring each other and note down the
measurement in the notebook.
• The trainer will guide the participant while measuring each other.

Session 9
Learning fabric cutting
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic cutting techniques for different
parts of a garment before sewing with the participants. Commonly used practices for cutting
fabrics are as bellow:
Preparing paper pattern- Patterns usually come on a massive sheet of paper
and need dividing up into different pieces. Cut around each piece using paper
scissors. There are different methods of cutting the fabric - depending on which
option you choose, you may want to cut the pattern roughly or accurately. For
now, a good option is to cut around each piece leaving a bit of extra space
outside the lines.
Give your pattern a press if it’s folded or crumpled, again to help with accurate cutting. Most

23
pattern paper will be fine with a low, dry iron – although do test a small patch first as the ink
on some patterns can smudge.
Whenever possible, you can trace patterns onto freezer paper. The reason is that most patterns
come with multiple sizes. You can trace and cut only your needed size, without cutting the
original pattern.
Fabric Layout and cutting
• Assemble everything you will need: pattern pieces, pattern instructions (for lay-out
instruction), pins, scissors and fabric and lay them on a table.
• Fold your fabric according to lay-out instructions.
• Lay your pattern pieces in the correct direction.
• Use color chalk or tracing wheel to mark on your fabrics to cut.
• For cutting out the pieces, you can use a scissors.

Clipping and Notching Curves

clipping notching

Clipping: as shown in the picture 1, clipping a seam allowance, means making a series of
small cuts perpendicular to the edge of the fabric. When you have a concave curve or an
interior corner, which needs to be turned right side out, you will need to clip to release the
tension of the seam allowance. In these situations, the seam allowance is smaller than the area
it is being turned into. Clipping can also be used in other instances where you feel the seam
allowances straining. Tighter curves will require more frequent clips than more shallow
curves.

Notching: Notching is similar to clipping, but instead of taking a single snip out of the fabric,
you cut out a small amount of fabric. Notching is used on convex curves and exterior corners
because the seam allowance is larger than the space it will be turned into. Since notching
removes small amounts of fabric, it will reduce bulk in the finished product. Corners are
notched by cutting the seam allowance diagonally across the corner. Sometimes an additional
row of tiny stitches is placed within the seam allowance close to the main stitching line. This
will help to reinforce the corner prior to notching. Curves are notched with a series of “V”
shaped cuts.

Clipping and notching seam allowances allows the fabric to mold into a curve. This is what
makes the finished garment lie flat, with nice flat seams and edges.

24
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about various fabric cutting techniques.

Session 10:
Learning shaping techniques
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic cutting techniques for different
parts of a garment.
Sewing Tucks: In sewing, a tuck is a fold or pleat in fabric that is sewn in place. Small tucks,
especially multiple parallel tucks, may be used to decorate clothing or household linen. Tucks
are constructed by stitching and pressing excess fabric to form folds.

Fold along the middle ("fold line") of each tuck, bringing wrong sides of the fabric together.
Press along the fold. (If your fabric is slippery, you could use a piece of card to press the
folds neatly in place before stitching.) Pin directly along the stitching lines. There are
different types of Tucks like Web Tuck, Fold Tuck, Press Tuck, Space Tuck Pin talk etc.
When the tucks are very narrow, they are called pin tucks or Pin-tucking. Spaced tucks are
folds of cloth sewn at regular intervals to add texture and interest to a garment. Sew them in
groups and down the full length of the tuck or leave them free at one end. Use vertically on a
bodice or yoke, or horizontally around the bottom of a skirt.

Stitching Darts-This is a very commonly used shaping technique. Darts are used most
commonly around the fuller areas of our body, those that are broader or larger than other
areas e.g. hips, shoulders and for women on the bust or chest. Stitching a dart, means do
folding and removing a triangle shape in order to give a flat piece of fabric a 3D form. Darts
can be straight triangle shapes or slightly curved, single or double-ended.
For example, darts may take in bulk in the center back of a man's fitted shirt.
They may be placed at back shoulders to allow the shirt to be looser at the
shoulder blades, but taper in up at the shoulder seam. They can also be placed
on the sides or under the bust line as the image in right side. The top of a skirt
often has darts to allow the skirt to be full at the hips but taper in at the waist.
Bust darts usually start the side seam of a garment and end near the apex of the
bust in order to make the bodice of a garment more formfitting.

25
Pleats-When making a garment, you will sometimes be required to add” fullness” or “body”
to it or give it either ease of wearing or just better looks. For example, in a Skirt or a Ghagra
you will notice that even though the hem and the waist have a smaller diameter the rest of the
skirt has a lot of space allowing for movement. This shape is done mostly by adding “pleats”
at the waist. A pleat is a fold (or folds) in the fabric, where the fabric is doubled
back on itself and sewn in place. Pleats allow the fabric to be full in one area
and fitted in another, so like darts, they are a useful technique to use when
tailoring garments. Pleats make the perfect embellishment for girls’ clothing. A
pleat is made by folding the fabric and stitching a straight line at some distance
parallel to the fold.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about various shaping techniques.

Day 4
Session 11
Looking and analyzing the Cross List
Each participant will look at the Cross List and discuss about progress of the training.
Learning attaching pocket
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic techniques for attaching pockets to
the garments.
There are different methods for adding pockets to a garment or item i.e. side seam pockets
(pocket sewn into the side seam of a skirt or dress) and front pockets (such as on a shirt).
Basically, a pocket has a front and a back (inside). If a pocket is sewn directly onto a shirt
front, the shirt front is the inside (or back) of the pocket. If the pocket is sewn into the side
seam of a skirt, the front of the skirt serves as the front of the pocket and a back is created by
sewing in a pocket.
The upper edge of a pocket is often made stronger by adding a facing and interfacing. This is
important if the pocket is on a shirt front or back of pants, for example. A pocket can also be
lined, which gives it a nice finish.
In a garment pockets can be both functional and decorative. Some are hidden and some are
visible. Here are the most common styles of pockets and their brief definitions as explained
by the Webster dictionary. You can choose one of these to make alterations in design.

26
 • Welt pocket - Pocket whose opening is adorned and reinforced by one or two thin
strips.
• Patch pocket - Pocket of various shapes and sizes, made of a piece of material sewn
onto the garment's outer surface.
• flap pocket - Pocket whose opening is covered by a piece of fabric hanging from the
top of it.
• Patch pocket - Patch pocket made fuller by an expandable bottom and sides or by an
inverted or round pleat in the middle of the pocket.
• Broad welt side pocket - Angled pocket; the outer edge of the opening has a wide
welt.
• Seam pocket - Pocket where the opening is in a side seam of the garment.
• Inset pocket - Pocket whose opening contains a decorative seam, giving the garment a
distinctive line.
• Hand-warmer pouch - Patch pocket on the front of a garment; it opens vertically on
one or both sides to protect the hands against the cold.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about attaching pockets to the garments.
• The participants will practice attaching pockets.

Session 12
Installation of sleeves
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic techniques for installing sleeves to
the garments.
The sleeves in a garment should add style and beauty as well as provide comfort to the
wearer. Understanding the basic sewing principles, you can make well-fitting sleeves. The
followings are the four main types of sleeves and their variations:

Set-in sleeve- Are sewn to the bodice armholes. It is called ‘set in’ because the
shoulder and side seams of the garment are already sewn together, and all seams
pressed open and finished. All set-in type sleeves must be eased, gathered, darted,
or tucked and sewn into the bodice arms key seam. They can be fitted or flared,
cut to any length, and their hemlines finished in a variety of ways. The different
types of set-in sleeves are

• Classic- The classic sleeve is the sleeve found in most traditional tailored, fitted
styles. The classic sleeve is characterized by a high sleeve cap. The higher sleeve cap
is much more formal and attractive when movement is not a priority.
• T-shirt - The T-shirt sleeve is a very casual style. The shoulder point on the bodice
armscye is typically dropped off the shoulder more than one inch (2.5 cm) and the

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 armhole is a very shallow curve. Diagonal wrinkles will form at the arms key as a
result. Greater freedom of movement is possible with this style though.
• Casual - The shorter cap sleeve is designed for a slightly dropped garment shoulder-
line. There is approximately 3/4 to 1-inch ease in the sleeve cap between the notches.
Being less fitted, this sleeve provides a greater amount of movement than the classic
or regulation set-in sleeve.

Raglan- The raglan sleeve is often selected for its comfortable fit and relatively easy
construction. It can be cut on the straight or bias grain and in one or two pieces.
Because the sleeve continues into the neckline area or some other part of the garment
bodice, shaping is needed over the shoulder curve. Shaping may take the form of a
dart, a seam, or gathers. It can be either a one-piece or a two-piece sleeve.

Kimono - The kimono sleeve is actually an extension of the bodice or body of the main
garment and sometimes is referred to as a gem of simplicity. The sleeve is frequently cut
as one piece with the garment, thus producing a T-shape bodice. When the garment is
worn the arms are seldom at right angles, therefore the sleeves create folds in the arm and
shoulder area. A very graceful draped effect can be achieved when the sleeve/armhole area
is large or more open in structure.

Dolman- A full sleeve that is very wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist. The
dolman sleeve is a sleeve set into a very low armscye; in fact, the armscye may extend
to the waistline, in which case there will be no underarm seam in the blouse.

Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about installation of sleeves to the garments.
• The participants will practice installing sleeves.

Session 13
Learning seam technique
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic techniques for joining seam of
garments.
In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials
are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was
done by hand.
Seams are classified by their type and position in the finished garment (center back seam,
inseam, side seam). Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to prevent raveling of raw
fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments. There are various seam finishing methods
like-
• Pinking Shears or Zig-Zag Edge Method-You will need a pair of pinking
shears to cut a zig-zag edge on the fabric. Just simply cut close to the edge
with your shears. This gives a finished look and helps prevent fraying. It is a
good idea to add a line of stitching inside the pinked edge to add more
protection against fraying.
• Zig-Zag Stitch Method- Use the zigzag setting on your machine. Test it out on
a piece of scrap fabric first – try a smaller stitch length for lighter fabrics, and a
longer stitch for heavy ones. You can either zig zag both sides of the seam
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 allowance and press the seam open (see smaller photo), or you can zig zag the two
sides together, and press to one side. A machine sewn zig-zag stitch on fabric edging
to help prevent fraying. Zig-zag should be sewn close to the edge, allowing the outer
zig-zag to fall over the edge of the fabric.
• Clean finished Seam Method- It can be done on light to medium weight
woven fabrics. May be too bulky for heavier fabrics. With right sides
together, sew your seam and press open. For each side of seam allowance,
turn under 1/4” or less and press. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance.
Don’t sew to the garment).
• Binding Seams Method - It can also be used for delicate or lightweight
fabrics. Also fit for very heavy denims or other bulky fabric. Binding is
stitched onto the seam allowance in the same way that it is stitched around a
quilt or placemat. However. In the photo above right, the side seams are
encased in binding.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about seam techniques.
• The participants will practice seam techniques.

Session 14
Attaching zipper to a garment
Here the trainer will explain and demonstrate some basic techniques for attaching zipper/zip
to the garments.
A Zipper is a commonly used device for binding the edges of an opening of fabric or
other flexible material, like on a garment or a bag. The bulk of a zipper/zip consists
of two rows of protruding teeth, which may be made to interdigitate, linking the
rows, carrying from tens to hundreds of specially shaped metal or plastic teeth. These
teeth can be either individual or shaped from a continuous coil. The slider, operated
by hand, moves along the rows of teeth. Inside the slider is a Y-shaped channel that meshes
together or separates the opposing rows of teeth, depending on the direction of the slider's
movement.
These zips are predominantly used in ladies' dresses and skirts. Now it is the most modern
form of fastener in every types of clothing, e.g. Trousers, jackets, jeans, skirts etc. These
zippers are available in knitted and woven tapes.
Zippers come in a variety of colors and size. They can be mostly classified into metal or
plastic depending on the type of materiel used to make them. In addition to that, there is a
special plastic zipper called the Invisible zipper. These zippers do not require provision of a
fly, since they are made and stitched in such a manner that only a hairline seam is visible
from outside.
Activity:
• The trainer will demonstrate about attaching zip to a garment.
• The participants will practice attaching zip to a garment.

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 Day 5
Session 15
Looking and analyzing the Cross List
Each participant will look at the Cross List and discuss about progress of the training.
Designing Input: New fashionable design
Fashion is an ever-changing trend among people. As a tailor the participants have to
continuously keep themselves updated with this changing taste and preferences of people
about clothing. The participants will have to continuously learn and develop new skills to
meet the demand of their customers. Having good knowledge of latest fashion trend, the
participants not only sew or stitch clothes according to their customer's choice, but they can
also suggest and design clothes which they can sell directly to their customers. They can use
their own creative ideas to make newly designed clothes for their customers. They might also
feel comfortable when customers will provide them some designs and asks to make similar
clothing. There are various sources to keeping themselves updated about the latest fashion
trend among local customers like:
• observing and looking at outfits of people of your locality
• talking with the customer about their choices and preferences
• visiting readymade garments shops, talking with the shopkeepers and observing the
pattern of dress items.
• visiting online platforms like YouTube.
Here are some examples of various patterns of Kurti and blouses.

Tail cut kurti Anarkali kurti A-line kurti Floor length kurti

Jacket style kurti C cut kurti Long straight kurti Tulip Kurti

Double layered kurti Empire waist kurti Princes cut kurti Shirt style kurti

Tail cut kurti Anarkali kurti A-line kurti Floor length kurti

Jacket style kurti C cut kurti Long straight kurti Tulip Kurti
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 Double layered kurti Empire waist kurti Princes cut kurti Shirt style kurti

Blouse designs

Activity: I will learn new designs

• The trainers will explain about the need of updating pattern knowledge with changing
fashion trend.
• The trainer will give examples of some latest trend in various apparel used by men
and women.
• The participants will discuss in pairs and individually present to the group about how
they will keep themselves update about constantly changing fashion in the locality.

Session 16
Financing your business
Money became constraint for many of the small tailoring units to upgrade their businesses.
To make tailoring business safe and sustainable it needs to expand the business activities with
a formalize setup which increases the accessibility of finance. Formalization of a business
refers to a process or registration and licensing of the business with the authorities and access
to social security for the business owner and his/her employees. Formalization make the
business compliant with the legal framework, including tax, social security and labor laws.
Here are some suggested sources of finance where they can get money to expand their
businesses.
• Banks: Banks have special schemes to provide loans to small businesses. To get a
loan from a bank, business have to qualify for bank’s minimum criteria. Every bank
has its own criteria with regards to earning potential of business, annual turnover, etc.
There are many types of loans that banks offer such as working capital loans (a loan
that is taken to finance a business's everyday operations such as salary of staff, rent
etc.), loan against property, etc. Self-employed tailors can contact their nearest bank
branches to know more about the loans offered by the bank and choose the type of
loans as per their requirement.
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 • Microfinance: The tailoring shop owner can access loan from the microfinance
institutions by forming a Joint Liability Group (JLG) or Self-Help Group (SHG) to
start or upgrade their existing tailoring shops.
• Pradhan Mantri Mudra Yojana: To establish a tailoring shop one can avail Mudra
loan under Micro Credit Scheme which offered mainly through Micro Finance
Institutions, who deliver the credit up to 1 lakh, for various micro enterprise / small
business activities. Although the model of delivery may be through SHGs/JLGs/
Individuals, the loans are given by the MFIs to individual entrepreneurs for specific
income generating micro enterprise/ small business activities.

How to procure better sewing machines for your shop

Better quality and heavy-duty sewing machines are important for daily productivity of a
tailoring shop. There are various models and types of sewing machines from various reputed
brand like Usha, Singer, Brother, Zuki etc. available all across the towns or cities of India.
You can choose your sewing machines considering your need and budget. Here are some
basic tips to consider while purchasing sewing machines for your shop:
• Consider some basic features of sewing machine which helps in ease at work and last
longer like-
o Good Ergonomics and Controls
o Lightweight
o Good speed Control
• Consult some expert tailors nearby to know about the recommended sewing machines
and from where to procure them.
• Before putting the final purchasing order, must check the price from the different
sellers.
• You can purchase sewing machines through online order from e-commerce sites like
Amazon, Flipkart etc. by comparing the features and price at your ease.
• Don’t forget to take proper invoices and other papers while purchasing machines and
tools. It will be helpful in proper documentation of your project.

Activity: Financing my tailoring shop

• The trainer will explain about various sources of financing a business and how to
procure better sewing machine for the shop.
• Each participant will make a rough calculation about how much money they want as
loan to start/expand their business and how they will use that loan money.
• Each of them will present their calculations to the group.
• The trainer and participants will comment to each presentation.

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Session 17
Strategies for maximizing sales
You may have noticed in your locality that there are many sellers or service provider of the
same kind of product and services, but some sell their stuff very efficiently with less time and
some have to wait for the customers to come to their shop. Many among them are
experienced in dealing with people. They know about the stuffs they are selling, they know
how to talk with their customers. And the way they do it is very personalized. As a result of
their well behavior and communication they create a good number of regular customers who
helps in running business well. Apart from good behavior and communication skill there are
some other factors which affect the sales in a business. These factors are broadly called 4Ps
(Product, Price, Place and Promotion) of Marketing. Working on these 4Ps brings a business
closer to its customers and helps in improving sales of the product of the business. Let's
revise what these 4Ps mean that we have learnt during the FEST and how we can use this
concept in our tailoring shop.

Product: Product is the good or service a business brings to its customers. A product should
meet certain demands of the customers or it should create a demand among the customers, so
that the customers think they need the product. Like making availability of wide range of
sewing services with accordance to customer demand.

Price: How much money the customers will pay for a product? The answer to this question
describes the second P of the 4Ps. While pricing a product we need to consider the following:
• How much should be the price of the item?
• In what price other competitors are selling the item
• Is larger section of customer have ability to pay that price

Place: Location is a key factor for any business. You need to select an area with high
visibility and a fair amount of footfall if you want to sell your product directly to the end
users. Locating the shop near a residential area or a market place would be advantageous for
setting your tailoring shop. A tailoring shop owner should consider:
• accessibility of people to the place where shop located
• considering local competitors who are running the similar shop
• displaying the stitched dress materials in such a way that a costumer can easily get a
view preferred stuff or beautifully placing varieties of garments in an order so, that
customers are at ease in finding their design pattern as an idea.

Promotion: It includes advertising of the product and making good relation with people
using effective communication skills. Here, the tailoring shop owner should:
• Talk with the people who will take service from your shop and explain the specialty
of your shop and why they should sew clothes at your shop.
• Pay full attention to the customers and listen them carefully.
• Give some discount in price to regular customer. Pricing must be done very
reasonably at the beginning so that the customers get the interest in your business and
clothes. With the increase in turnover, you can adjust the prices.
• Take opportunity of local or any special events organized at your area to advertise
about your tailoring shop.
• Advertise your shop through sign board and banners in different place of your
locality.

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 • You can use social media like WhatsApp, WhatsApp business, Facebook and other
digital platforms to promote your services available in your shop. You can tell
customer to place order for the tailoring services online or via phone calls. Here is
some weblinks of specialized and doorstep tailoring service providers that can help
the participants to get inspiration:
https://www.yourtailor.in/
https://www.facebook.com/urbantailor.in/
http://www.fabstitch.in/
http://www.darzioncall.in/

Key soft skills for a tailoring shop owner to marketing her services
A soft skill is a personal quality that supports situational awareness and enhances an
individual's ability to get a job done. It is often used as a synonym for people skills or
emotional intelligence. Unlike technical skills (also called as hard skills), by using which a
person performs a specific task, soft skills are broadly applicable across all occupations. For
example, a tailor who may have an extensive knowledge of her profession will find it difficult
to close a deal with wholesalers and retain her customers if she lacks the soft skills of
interpersonal skills and negotiation. Below is the list of some key soft skills by having which
a tailor can make her business profitable and sustainable.

Communication: As a soft skill, communication is not about multiple syllables or rousing

speeches. Verbal communication includes both listening and speaking. Listening is the ability
to correctly receive and understand messages during the process of communication. Without
effective listening skills, messages can easily be misunderstood. This results in a
communication breakdown and can lead to the sender and receiver of the message becoming
frustrated or irritated. Listening is not same as hearing. Hearing refers to sounds that one
hears but listening deals with focusing on speaker's words, context, the way she used
language and voice, and her body language. To listen your customer effectively:
-Stop talking
-Stop interrupting
-Focus completely on what customer is saying
-Nod and use encouraging words and gestures
-Think about the customer's perspective
-Be very patient

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-Pay attention to the tone that is being used
-Pay attention to the customer's gestures, facial expressions and eye movements
-Not let the customer's mannerisms or habits irritate or distract you

Speaking effectively is another vital chain of communication process. An effective speaker is

one who enunciates properly, pronounces words correctly, chooses the right words and
speaks at the pace that is easily understandable. Besides this, the words spoken out loud need
to match the gestures, tone and body language used. What you say, and the tone in which you
say it, results in numerous perceptions being formed. A person who speaks hesitantly may be
perceived as having low self-esteem or lacking in knowledge of the topic. Those with a quit
voice may considered as shy. And those who speak in commanding tones with high levels of
clarity, are usually considered to be extremely confident. To speak to customers effectively:
-Incorporate body language in your speech like eye contact, smiling, nodding, gesturing etc.
-Think before you speak
-Ensure that all your emotions and feelings are under control
-Use pleasant and natural tone when speaking. Your customer should not feel like you are
being unnatural in any way.
-Be brief. Do not add any unnecessary information
-Speak clearly and politely so that a customer can easily understand what you are saying.
-Use magic words like 'Please', 'Thank you', 'You are welcome', 'Excuse me', 'I am sorry', etc.
whenever required

Leadership: Leadership is a soft skill you can show even if you’re not directly managing
others or managing one or two employees. Leadership can be thought of as a collection of
various other soft skills, such as a general positive attitude and outlook, the ability to
communicate effectively, and an aptitude for both self-motivating and motivating others.
Your leadership skill will decide the future of your business.

Problem Solving: Like any other profession a tailor can also face problems in day to day
business operation and having ability to solve these problems also considered as a soft skill.
All problems contain two elements: goals and obstacles. The aim of problem solving is to
recognize the obstacles and remove them in order to achieve the goals. Solving a problem
requires a level of rational thinking. It does not just require analytical, creative and critical
skills, but a particular mindset: those who can approach a problem with a cool and balance
head will often reach a solution more efficiently than those who cannot. Here are some
logical steps to follow when faced with an issue:
-Identify the problem
-Analyze the problem in detail
-Think of all possible solution
-Select the solution. You may take opinion of your employees and friends if you think
appropriate.
-Implement the chosen solution
-Check that the problem has really been solved

Some of the personal traits also play a big role in how effectively problems are solved. like-
-Being opened minded
-Being proactive
-Not panicking
-Having positive attitude
-Focusing on the right problem etc.
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Activity: My marketing strategies to maximize sales
• The trainer will explain about various factors that effects the sales in a business.
• Each participant will make a list of ideas that they think increase their sales and
negotiate with the customer of their shop.
• Each of them will present their strategies to the group.
• The trainer and participants will comment to the ideas presented by the participants.

Session 18
Preparation for field visits
The purpose of the visit is to meet some people working in tailoring shops and talk them
about their experiences of running the sewing business. The participants will ask various
questions to people to whom they visit such as what the investment was, why they decided to
start tailoring shop, what they do to maximize their sales, from where they buy raw materials,
what are the cost of the sewing machines, how they decide sale price of different produced
items, how much they are earning, what are the main challenges in running a tailoring shop,
any advice for them, etc.

• The trainer will explain the purpose of the visit.

• The participants will prepare a role play in pairs. One participant will be the visitor
and the other will be a raw material wholesaler. They will prepare matters like how
they will introduce themselves to the wholesaler and what they will ask.
• The participants will show their preparation through role plays.
• The trainer will suggest ways and questions.
• The participants will add or improve their questions as per the comments.
• The trainer will tell the participants about the program schedule for the next day’s
visit and ask them to get prepared themselves for that.

Day 6
Session 19:
Visiting and talking with tailoring shop owners
• The participants will visit individually or in pairs to tailoring shops and hear about
their experiences on running the tailoring shop. They can ask some questions related
to management of the tailoring business like how they promote customers to take
service from their shop, what are the profit margin in sewing readymade garments and
supplying that to local shops or to wholesalers, what are the challenges in running a
tailoring shop, is there enough demand of customized sewed clothes, sewing of which
items has good demand etc.
• During interaction, they will observe the setting of the shop and notice different things
like; how various tools and equipment used for sewing are organized in the shop, how
the things are kept safe and handled comfortably.
• They will take down notes of the important things she learnt during their interaction.
• They can visit the sewing material store and enquiry about price of various thing used
in the tailoring shop like sewing machine, wholesale prices of threads, button, zipper,
pattern making paper, etc. They will also ask if they get these materials in some
discounted price.

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Concluding the learning of the day
The participants will conclude the information gained from interactions with the people
during the field visit.
Each participant will:
• Present the learnings and own ideas to her colleagues.
• Make a writing on what she decides about own business; "starting and running
tailoring shop" on behalf of her learning.

Day 7
Season 20
Looking and analyzing the Cross List
• Each participant will look at the Cross List and discuss about progress of the training.

Sharing experiences from the field visits

• The participants will make preparation to share the knowledge and experiences they
received during their four-day field visit.
• Each pair will share their experiences among all other participants.

Session 21
Making a budget
Determining the startup cost for my tailoring shop
Activity: 'What are the things I need'?
The participants will make a list of the things they need to start up their shops.
• The trainer will distribute a piece of paper to each participant.
• Each participant will make a list of the things that she needs to start up her beauty
parlour.
• Each of them will present her list to the group.
• The trainer will add things needed if any more on the basis of the example given below.

Let's take an example of Dolly. She wants to start a Tailoring shop.

She made a list of things she would need to start the tailoring shop, such as:
1. 1 big room
2. 2 racks
3. 1 cloth cutting table
4. 3 sewing machine
5. 1 overlock machine
6. Scissors
7. iron
8. hanger
9. Furnitures
10. raw material like lining/pocketing fabrics, buttons, hooks, zipper, sewing
threads etc.
11. A sign board of her tailoring shop

Activity: 'How much money I need for each of the things?'

• The participants will put an estimate price for each of the things in their lists.
• The participants should consider if they can find some of the things without spending
any money or by spending less.
37
 • Each participant will present their start-up cost to the group.
• The group will comment and conclude the point.

Estimating Fixed and Variable Monthly Expenses

Fixed Monthly expenses may include rent, electricity, utilities, phone, publicity, etc. Monthly
variable costs may include purchasing costs of raw materials used for sewing and transport
costs for delivery readymade garments etc.
Activity: 'My fixed and variable costs'
• The trainer will distribute a piece of paper to each participant. He will explain what
fixed and what variable cost are for a tailoring shop.
• The participants will make two columns and calculate fixed and variable cost for their
businesses for a month.
• Two participants will present their calculations. The group will discuss their
presentations, correct them if they have made any mistakes

Estimating Monthly income of my tailoring shop

Activity: 'My monthly income'

• Each participant will make a monthly estimated income from tailoring services. She
can take support from the other participant in her pair.
• Each participant will fix a price for various sewing services they want to provide by
analyzing the conversation about price with the tailoring shop owners and sewing
material sellers during the field visits.
• This time two other participants will present their monthly estimated income.

Putting everything together

By putting the start-up cost, fixed and variable cost and monthly estimated income together,
we can make the budget.
Activity: 'Putting everything together'
• The trainer will distribute a copy of a six-month budget format to each participant that
they have used during the FEST. The participants will work in pairs or in Trios.
• Each participant will put all her calculations into the budget format.

Session 22
Making a business plan for my tailoring shop
The participants have already known and understand how to make a business plan for a small
business during the FEST (Fundamental Entrepreneurship and Skill Training). Here they will
make a business plan specifically for 'Starting and running a tailoring shop'.

Activity: 'My Business plan'

• The trainer will distribute a business plan format to each participant and explain the
business plan of Dolly given as example.
• Each participant will make her business plan. The participants can support each other.
• The participants will use all calculations they have made today.
• Each participant will present her business plan and others will take part in the discussion
of the plans.
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 • The trainer will give his/her inputs and conclude the point.

Let's look at Dolly's business plan:

BUSINESS PLAN
1 Name of the business woman Dolly

2 Name and type of business Dolly tailors

3 Address Railway station road,

Titilagarh, Dist. Balangir,
Odisha
4 Sales… (A) per month Rs.1,35,000

5 Other expenses…. (B) per month Rs.1,02,000

Other than fixed expenses like rent, electricity bill,
etc.
6 Sales minus other expenses….. (A-B) Rs.33,000

7 Fixed cost….. (D) per month Rs.2,500

8 Profit…… (A-B-D) per month Rs.30,500

9 Loan required Rs.30,000

10 Interest expenses….. (E) per month Rs.1500
11 Profit after Interest…. (Profit-E) per month Rs.29,000

Session 23
Keeping track of my money
It is very important for a tailoring shop owner to be able to calculate if she is earning a profit
or losing money. When she knows the facts, she can plan for making changes that will help her
to stay in business.
Let's look at the two situations through stories!

Story 1:
"Radhika, from Khampada, Patnagarh, Odisha, was staying with her husband and five other
family members, started a tailoring shop. The business took off as the single shop in her village.
She was keeping records of customers sewing their garments on credit, but not keeping records
of purchasing tea and refreshment for her employees, her family expenses etc. This created a
problem in her cash flow. She could not know how much she is making profit and if her business
is going well. She could not manage her economy and after sometimes, she had to close the
shop."

Story 2:
"Sarita, another woman, had a tailoring shop. She was also making good business. Day-by-
day her customers were increasing. She had a big family of 10 members. She had a good habit
of taking notes of paid amount by customers at the day end, amount with customers on credit
and maintaining stock every day. She was also writing how much money she used for employees
39
and her family every day. This was giving a good picture of her business all the time. She
continued to run her tailoring shop successfully for a long time.

• The participants will read one story each in two groups.

• Each group will discuss the following: What happened in the above case study? Is this
the right way to manage a tailoring shop? Will it lead to profit or loss? Can you suggest
any changes?
• Each group will present their discussions on each of the questions and the whole group
will discuss.
• The trainer will conclude the point by giving examples of good business practices with
this list: Keeping daily records, keeping money safe, avoid giving credit as much as
possible, collecting long standing debts, routinely look at the expenses and income, etc.

So, let us learn how to keep track of the money we earn. To monitor a business, the following
steps can help:
• Calculating how much money is received in the week.
• Calculating what is paid for stock or materials.
• Calculating what is paid for running expenses.
• Calculating what is owed from customers as credit.
• Calculating what is owed to the wholesaler of raw materials.
• Calculating how much money is left by the end of the week.
• Deciding how to use the money.

A good method is to monitor the business economy every week, so that it becomes clear if the
business is making money or losing money.

Activity: 'I have….'

• The trainer will explain it through the above example.
• The trainer will distribute the formats to each participant to use for the calculations.
• The participants imagine and calculate their own individually.
• Each participant will present her calculations to the group.

Deciding how to use the money

Now, we have the money left with us at the end of the week. To decide what to do with the
money, we need to consider the following:
• How much money is needed to be saved for monthly expenses like rent, electricity,
etc.?
• How much money is needed to buy materials for next week?
• How much money is needed for running expenses?
• How much money is needed to be saved for later use?
• How much money can be used for myself and my family?

Activity:
• The trainer will explain how to decide the use of surplus money by using the above
questions.
• The participants will discuss the above questions in pairs: Is it the right thing to do and
why?

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Session 24
Concluding the training
• The trainer will ask the participants to share their learnings from the training.
• The participants will share what they learned from the training and how they will use
the learning in starting and running their beauty parlour businesses.
• The trainer will give her concluding remarks and wish all the participants for success
in their businesses.

Materials required for the training

• A board and pieces of chalk
• Sewing machines, other sewing equipment and raw materials that to be used during
the training
• Sewing patterns designs for practicing
• Notebook and pen

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