Adventure Magazine - June - July 2022.freemagazines - Top

ISSUE 232
JUN/JUL 2022
NZ $10.90 incl. GST
a
where
win
ouder than words
ture
Available from leading retailers:
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Taupo: Gordons
Wellington: Gordons
Canterbury: Gnomes
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Dunedin: Beggs Ski Shop
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The media sucks!
I clearly remember as a young teenager playing rugby league and for this time of year, be aware but carry on as normal.
I knew that we had two boys in the team that were over age and As Adventure Magazine we wrote to the mainstream media and
should not be playing. Every win was tainted. What was harder asked them to stop ramping up a story that had no base in truth
than knowing that you were not really winning fairly was knowing because of the impact it would have on the livelihood of those
that your team, the guys you played for, were not someone you who need the mountain to be fully open this year.
could be proud of and not a team I wanted to belong too.
Ruapehu has now started to fall out of the media clickbait limelight
I feel the same way now about the media. (the clicks must have started to fall off) and covid seems to be
less of an issue. So the media has now started to hypothesise
The media has always been a bit like that. Historically whatever that there will be a massive spike in Covid numbers this winter
sold newspapers, was pushed to the front; not just current news DQGRQWRSRIWKDWZHDUHDERXWWREHÁRRGHGZLWKWKH0RQNH\
but outrageous news, twisted headlines, the girl in a bikini on Pox. All this just to set off our Covid alarm bell and get us clicking
page three, that sort of approach. Then came along the women's again.
ZHHNO\·VVKRZLQJLPDJHVRIPRYLHVWDUVRQWKHLUGD\RIIWRJHW
beer-belly shots, or the no-makeup shots. Those tabloids that Scaremongering to create clickbait, to create revenue, is
chased Princess Diana, hunting for a gossip shot, (that's a whole embarrassing for any of us in the media. It has become its own
other editorial!). nasty pandemic. A pandemic to which there is no vaccine, so I
JXHVVWKHRQO\FXUHLVDZDUHQHVV'RQ·WIROORZWKHQHJDWLYHK\SH
Move to the last few years, the news media has moved more focus on the fun, the good, the right and the true. Winter is coming
and more online. As we all have struggled with covid, the media and rather than face it with Covid and Monkey Pox concerns we
has not done its reputation any good. Whenever there is an should be planning for an amazing winter season. This issue of
opportunity to over sensationalise a covid issue they have Adventure will be low on the effects of Monkey Pox and high on
OHYHUDJHGSHRSOH·VIHDUDQGZRUU\WRJDLQFOLFNV²FOLFNVQRWWRD how much fun winter can be.
news feature based on fact or even entertainment but feeding on
fear and uncertainty just to get clicks. Let your concerns be about how often you can get to the
mountain and not led by some clickbait incentive pulling at your
As we go to print Ruapehu has been making a few rumbling fear strings.
noises and the media has come out with 'Likelihood of eruption
KDVFHUWDLQO\LQFUHDVHG
¶0W5XDSHKXWUHPRUVKLJKHVWLQQLQH From the staff at Adventure enjoy winter
\HDUV·RU¶0W5XDSHKXKDVWKHVWURQJHVWWUHPRULQ\HDUV·
all with underlying rhetoric of the White Island tradegy. One Steve Dickinson - Editor
website, with a misleading heading, pushed doom and disaster
for the winter ski season. Then used a video of a professional
volcanologist discussing the recent activity. If you listen to the
expert, he says there is nothing to worry about, it is a usual cycle
your Adventure starts with Us
23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

PAGE 10
contents
10//A Winter's Dream
Image by Zhi Yuen
Hiking Ruapehu
20//Nim Purja
Breaking records
22//Nelson Lakes
Lake Angelus, Sabine and Speargrass Huts
28//Georgia
PAGE 22 A little known treasure
34//Suffrage and Growth

An accidental romance
42//Winter Fishing
They still have to eat
48//Winter Mackenzie
Image by Eric Skilling
Standout moments
55//Mindfulness
The art of paying attention
76//Adventure Travel
Fiji | Niue | Tahiti | Rarotonga | Vanuatu
plus
62. gear guides
PAGE 46 94. active adventure
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Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on

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incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer became
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@ adventuremagazine
@ adventuretraveller @ adventurevanlifenz
CEN
CENTRAL
PLATEAU *
A WINTER’S DREAM:
COOL HIKES IN
RUAPEHU
Words by Adrift.co.nz Images by Zhi Yuen
-XVWEHFDXVHLWVZLQWHUGRHVQ·WPHDQ
\RXFDQ·WJRRXWDQGSOD\+LNLQJERRWV
on and all rugged up in cosy woollen
OD\HUVWKHUH·VQRWKLQJOLNHDZLQWHU·V
day out exploring the great outdoors.
With Tongariro National Park at your
doorstep and the iconic triple peaks
of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Tongariro and Mt
1JăXUXKRHDV\RXUEDFNGURSKHDG
to Ruapehu to discover a network of
world-class walking and hiking tracks
made for intrepid explorers.

"With Tongariro National Park
at your doorstep and the iconic
triple peaks of Mt Ruapehu, Mt
Tongariro and Mt Ngāuruhoe as
your backdrop, head to Ruapehu to
discover a network of world-class
walking and hiking tracks made for
intrepid explorers."
Tongariro Alpine Crossing

When winter arrives, the otherworldly landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
are transformed to something beyond your wildest dreams. Renowned as one of the
best one day hikes in the world, taking on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during winter
is a unique wilderness adventure best experienced with a guide. The elements are
in full force with ice, snow, and alpine conditions to reckon with, so it is essential to
go a professional guide. Additional preparation, equipment, specialised navigation,
and high-level backcountry skills are essential to enjoy this winter expedition safely.
Even if you’ve already done the Tongariro Alpine Crossing during the summer months,
it’s another level of adventure during winter so book with a local guide to be able to
rediscover this iconic hike to the fullest.
Waitonga Falls
A favourite with locals, Waitonga Falls is Tongariro National Park’s highest waterfalls
at 39 metres high. With access from Ohakune Mountain Road, this 4 km easy and
well-formed return track offers incredible views of Mt Ruapehu with majestic panorama
from the Rotokawa pools alpine wetland area. The perfect spot to pause, reflect and
take in natural wonders of this UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of geological and
cultural significance.
Tawhai Falls
Short, sweet and a must-do for Lord of the Rings fans, the beautiful cascades of
Tawhai Falls is an easy, 20-minute short walk easily accessible from roadside along
State Highway 48 nearby National Park Village. This family friendly walk delivers
gorgeous views from the top of the falls along with an easy to follow track to the
bottom of the falls.
Mounds Walk
Come sundown, the quick and easy Mounds Walk is a great way to watch the sun go
down as golden hues sweep over this unique landscape. Just a few minutes’ drive
from National Park Village off of State Highway 48, the formed mounds is a stark
reminder of the unique natural environment and geological wonders of NZ’s oldest
National Park.
Taranaki Falls
Situated in the heart of Tongariro National Park, the Taranaki Falls Track is a 6 km
loop, well-formed track that’s regarded as one of best short walks in the area - even
during the winter months. Traverse dramatic volcanic terrain to the stunning Taranaki
Falls as its alpine waters cascade 20 metres down to picturesque pools. On a clear
day take in the spectacular views of Mt Ngāuruhoe and Mt Tongariro as you journey
through alpine shrublands, mountain beech forest and volcanic soils.
ADVENTUREMAGAZINE.CO.NZ// 13
Tama Lakes
Popular year-round, the stunning Tama Lakes walk is a
great alternative to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing that is
phenomenal to experience during the winter season. This
NPWUDFNLVDQH[WHQVLRQRIWKHSRSXODU7DUDQDNL
Falls Track full of diverse terrain ranging from undulating
WXVVRFNFRXQWU\DOSLQHODNHVDQGDQFLHQWODYDÁRZV
Regarded as an advanced tramping track, going guided
LVGHÀQLWHO\WKHZD\WRJRIRUDQXQIRUJHWWDEOHZLQWHU
expedition to the Tama Lakes.
Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at

www.visitruapehu.com
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Backpacker to Superior Family Accommodation
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RIDE IN
RUAPEHU
Ride to your own rhythm to take in the scale and serenity of Ruapehu’s Greater
Outdoors.
Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,

with spectacular suspension bridges and viaducts, historic relics and secret
waterfalls to discover.
Home to two Great Rides and options for all abilities, there’s plenty of
two-wheeled adventure to be had in Ruapehu.
VISITRUAPEHU.COM
RIDING RUAPEHU
ADVENTURE THROUGH TIME AND SPECTACULAR SCENERY ON RUAPEHU’S GREAT RIDES
From the UNESCO Dual World Heritage site of relics from the area’s timber milling history. There’s also
Tongariro National Park to the waterways and byways of the Ongarue Spiral, an engineering marvel and great
Whanganui National Park, wind your way through alpine fun to ride over and then down through a tunnel under
villages, mountain towns and historic relics to discover the track. The trail is normally ridden over two days with
the best of Ruapehu by bike. memorable accommodation available at Piropiro, the
Home to the Timber Trail and Mountains to Sea - Ngā midway point. There are two lodges, a campsite, and
AraTūhono, two of New Zealand’s Great Rides. Ruapehu fully serviced glamping here, nestled into a remote bush
offers over 400 km of epic trails of local gems and world- setting. Tour operators offer packages with shuttles and
class rides to discover. accommodation to make the planning easy.
The Timber Trail Ohakune Old Coach Road

Distance: 85km Distance: 15km
Grade: 2-3 Grade: 3
The Timber Trail follows the path of old logging roads, The Ohakune Old Coach Road follows the route of the
and the historic bush tramlines through Pureora Forest old dray road between Ohakune and Horopito. This day
Park. A testament to forward thinking environmentalists ride is full of surprises and incredibly beautiful, taking in
who protested against native logging in 1978, this area some magnificent railway heritage including two striking
is one of the last remaining intact podocarp forests in viaducts and a spooky old tunnel. It offers some fantastic
New Zealand. Highlights of the trail include spectacular views over the volcanic plateau of Tongariro National
suspension bridges, giant ancient trees and fascinating Park, and some spectacular sections regenerating native

Main image: Spectacular scenery on the Timber Trail
Above top to bottom: Mountain Biking The Marton Sash and Door Trail / Ohakune Old Coach Road
bush. You can ride the trail in both directions as an out Pipiriki. You’ll need to book your transport in advance, and
and back, or take a shuttle to ride the trail in a mostly local tour operators offer packages with shuttles and jet
downhill direction from Horopito back to Ohakune, where boat ride.*In or after significant rain, may ride as a grade
you’ll find plenty of options to enjoy some mountain village 4. Check track status on the Official Mountains To Sea
hospitality after your ride. website before riding.
Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere) Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono

Distance: 36km Ohakune Old Coach Road and the Mangapurua are part
Grade: 3* of the Mountains to Sea Ngā Ara Tūhono Great Ride. If
The Mangapurua Track is a classic back country ride, with you’re looking for a varied multi-day ride from the top of
a spectacular finale. The trail starts deep in Ruatiti Valley Turoa ski field right to the Tasman Sea at Whanganui,
with a steady climb over a saddle and into the remote there are a couple of options to choose from, the Classic
Mangapurua Valley, a long-abandoned farming settlement Experience, or the Adventure Route, or sections of the
surrounded by bush-clad hills and dramatic bluffs. track make great day rides. Have a look at Fishers Track,
The ride and the riveting story that goes along with it end Kaiwhakauka and Marton Sah and Door.
at the Bridge to Nowhere, a graceful concrete monument
to the settlers’ broken dreams. For more info to plan your trip visit:
Then on down to the Whanganui River. When the ride www.visitruapehu.com. You can also download
is over, your next adventure begins! Load your bikes ride maps from the official websites, Timber Trail and
onto the back of a jet boat for an invigorating ride out to Mountains to Sea.
NIM PURJA:
BREAKING RECORDS
NIMS SUMMITS EVEREST, LHOTSE AND KANCHENJUNGA IN JUST UNDER NINE DAYS.
Images and text by Red Bull
Nirmal 'Nims' Purja MBE haș claimed two more Lhotse was the final peak and on May 16, the team left
incredible world records after the intrepid mountaineer the South Col around 3.30am and reached the 8,516m
became the first person to summit three peaks higher summit around 10am with Purja the first to summit
than 8,000m – Everest, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse - three peaks higher than 8,000m – Everest, Lhotse and
in just under nine days and do the Everest to Lhotse Kanchenjunga - without oxygen in an incredible time of
traverse in 26 hours - both without supplementary just eight days, 23 hours and 10 minutes - a new world
oxygen. record.
The Nepal-born naturalised British climber is well The 38-year-old, who took full advantage of this
known for summitting all 14 of the world's 8,000m season's good Everest summit window, revealed: "As I
peaks in seven months and he also made history on was focused on guiding and helping our team achieve
January 16, 2021, when the former Gurkha and British their new possible, it was all in a chilled manner. My
Special Forces operative and his team became the first mission has always been to inspire people and to
mountaineers to summit K2 in winter. show what human beings are capable of, that's what
gives me the energy and excitement – showing people
After receiving worldwide acclaim for those feats, Purja that nothing is impossible. I'm trailblazing and I want
embarked on a new adventure in early May with his to inspire everyone to know they can achieve their
Elite Exped team as they tackled the Himalayan peaks dreams too."
of Everest, Lhotse and Kanchenjunga.
He also did the Everest to Lhotse traverse without
Purja and his team went from Base Camp to Camp supplementary oxygen in 26 hours to claim another
2 on May 5, and then on May 6 started the push - world record despite getting Khumbu cough before
with a few hours break at Camp 3 - to the 8,586m Kanchenjunga due to low humidity and high-altitude
Kanchenjunga peak which they summited at 10.50am temperatures.
on May 7.
He added: "I was leading and guiding without oxygen
They switched over to the Everest Base Camp on May – I was checking in and making sure everyone was
10 and departed at 3am on May 11 for Camp 2 where ok, fed and rested and strong. And for me when I do a
they acclimatised for two days before heading up to summit push it is from Base Camp to the summit and
Camp 3 on May 13 ahead of the final push. then from the summit back to Base Camp. It has to be
authentic – no helicopter lifts back to Base Camp –
They left the South Col at 11pm on May 14 and, in a unless the summit is void or there's an emergency or
very quick time of just nine hours, they summitted the rescue."
world's most famous peak of 8,849m at 8am on May
15 to complete the second leg of the feat.

NEL
NELSON
LAKES
*
FOUR DAYS IN
NELSON LAKES
LAKE ANGELUS, SABINE AND SPEARGRASS HUTS
By Eric Skilling
“Lake Angelus is my favourite place in the world” he DAY 1: Lake Angelus. 12km in 6 hours. As so often
said as we discussed the trip ahead. Okay, he was born happens in NZ, you step out of the car park and head
in the area so maybe I could excuse a bit of bias, but VWUDLJKWXSDKLOO,QWKLVFDVHDPHWUHFOLPEIRUWKH
that was a bold claim from someone who has visited ÀUVWKRXUDQGDKDOI7KHXSVLGHLVWKHUHDUHSOHQW\RI
some amazing places all over the globe. Judging by the switchbacks, views of Lake Rotoiti, and the forest is full
number of photos I brought back, maybe he was right. RIWKHZHOFRPLQJFDOOVRIEHOOELUGV,WZDVQ·WORQJEHIRUH
I was back in the groove and feeling grateful to be out
My biggest encouragement was when he also said he tramping in such epic country.
ZDVQ·WIHHOLQJWKDWÀW7LPHWRNLFNVRPHEXWWRUVR,
thought. Alas, a lot can happen in four days, and nature The landscape changed abruptly as we left the bush line
ZRXOGÀQGDZD\RIEULQJLQJPHKXPEO\EDFNWRHDUWKE\ and started the poled route along Roberts Ridge. The
doing what nature does. track wound its way ahead through alpine scrub before
disappearing into swirling mist. This was late February,
and we were still warm after the climb, so we by-passed
the shelter and kept going until we came across Martin.

On top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus valley.
Martin is probably not his real name, but the it didn’t, and we didn’t. But a few hours later
name seems to suit him. Martin is the name we did emerge out of the cloud and got to
we gave to the larger-than-life-sized wooden see the full jagged ridge of the Julius Peak,
model that looms out of the mist with hand its multicoloured slopes falling steeply into
raised. He warned us that the track ahead the Speargrass River valley. To the northwest
was “difficult, rocky and exposed” and “it we could just make out what could have been
was still a long way to the hut!”. He urged the Hope Range and Mt Owen.
us to TURN BACK! If we were tired or cold.
Dramatic stuff. I gave Martin a cuddle and we A few hours later and we were standing on
continued onward. top of the ridge overlooking Lake Angelus
valley. This is one of those moments that
We met a couple returning from Lake Angelus is hard to describe. The scene is unique.
who told us the sky would clear once we Several hundred metres below the two lakes Saying G'day to Martin
reached Flagtop at 1650m, and we would get stand out starkly, their colours ranging from
great views of Julius Summit (1794m). Well, a deep blue to almost black, edged with
Sunrise at Lake Angeles, photographs don’t capture the feeling of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the alpine vegetation,
and the sound of the Hukere stream making its way from the lake.
turquoise and greens. Above them the valley the bushline, overlooking the full length of Lake
is ringed by a serrated line of weathered peaks, Rotoroa and the promise of a refreshing swim.
with multiple scree slopes reaching down to the
encroaching alpine tussock that surrounds the It was a welcome relief to walk into the cool cover
lakes. of the beech trees after spending most of the tramp
walking on rock and gravel with plenty of boulder
Angelus hut itself, stands nicely placed on the edge hopping. Don’t get me wrong, the panoramas from
of the lake looking very fragile and out of place in the exposed tops are awe-inspiring, but it was bliss
this wild landscape. to step onto the bush track, cushioned by layers of
fine beech tree leaves. Piwakaka skipped around
Once at the hut there was plenty of time for a swim, us, and bellbirds greeted us with their inimitable
a cup of hot sweet coffee and to share stories and song. Three hours to go.
banter with others in the hut. Lake Angelus seems
to be a mecca for couples. Andrea and Patrick from An hour later the path had become quite steep. A
Nelson, Beth and Mulock from Dunedin, Gabriela couple of wasps had miraculously snuck into my
and Leandro from South America. I had to settle for boots, settled on each of my big toes, and would
my mate Don. occasionally give me a sting if I made any decent
sized downward step.
Next day I was up in time to catch the sunrise, but
photographs don’t allow you to share the feeling Then we reached “The Sign”. These large signs
of remoteness, the cold mist, the smell of the with their contour profiles and “You are Here”
alpine vegetation, and the sound of the Hukere points are rare but usually very welcome. They
stream making its way from the lake. When the impart guidance, direction, hope and anticipation.
sun eventually reached over the peaks to the east, Sometimes they lie. This specific one was
light spread over the glacial valley, still filled with a colourfully decorated with a profile telling us that we
lumpy blanket of swirling cloud. Special. Then the had an hour to go. That is a lie. Clearly whomever
breeze dropped and the surface of Lake Angelus put up the sign did a “she’ll be right” and put it up at
became a mirror, creating almost perfect reflections the wrong end of the trail. Soon afterward the steep
of the scree slopes and skyline above it. track became even steeper. Handholds became
commonplace.
Day 2: Sabine hut, Lake Rotoroa. 6.8km in 6
hours. Note the warning – expect an average An hour later the lake looked no closer. By now
pace of 1.1km an hour. DOC describes the track as another 10 wasps had made their way into my
“steep” in that charming, understated kiwi way. boots and settled onto a toe each. Almost every
foot-plant was announced with a stab of pain to
A perfect day for tramping. We scrambled and each toe. I was doing mini traverses wherever
boulder hopped along the ridgeline, with expansive possible. Don meanwhile, seemed to be enjoying
views from Mt Angelus, the Muntz and Braeburn himself as he waited every 100m or so for me to
ranges, and up Sabine River valley to Mt Franklin catch up. I might be better at going uphill, but his
(2340 metres). Our lunch stop was just above forte was the downhills.
Top: Andrea and Patrick nearing the last ridge We stopped and I took of my boots and socks and rearranged
Above: 12 Heading along Cedric Ridge with everything. I enjoyed about 100 metres of relative comfort before the
Mt Franklin in the distance
wasps repositioned themselves on my toes.
Another hour later I was considering taking my boots off and walking
bare foot when I heard voices echoing off the lake. We must be
close. Going bootless on this terrain was a dumb idea so I turned and
scrambled down backwards. The humiliation was complete.
Ten minutes later I hobbled up to the hut and took off my boots, amazed
that they had not melted by the flames from my blazing toes. A painful
lesson in cutting toenails just before leaving on these adventures.
Heading to Speargrass hut
Day 3 and 4: Speargrass Hut and Mt Robert car park.
18Km 9 hours. Don and I had set aside two days to
complete the round trip from Sabine to the car park. It
turned out to be a brilliant ideas for so many reasons.
Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down

on us. It also turned a single tough day into one moderate
and then another easy day to finish the trip.
Starting alongside the lake the track veers into the lush
beech forest which is traversed by small streams and a
couple of bridged rivers. The forest floor around us was
covered in thick layers of lichen, ferns and bright green
+
−
mosses. The clear streams made it mostly a waste of time
carrying water.

We also attracted the attention of some of the most

50
250
confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During

a stop a robin brazenly hopped down onto our packs,
skipped down to our boots and then hopped onto our legs
and picked seeds off our gaiters and socks. Priceless.
Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well

placed wilderness huts we have the freedom to visit.
Nestled in a couple of hectares of sweeping speargrass
and tussock, shielded on three sides by massive ridges
including Julius Peak, and facing down the heavily
forested river valley. Relatively new, the hut is also double
2 km
Leaflet (https //leafletjs com) | NZ Topo Map (/) images sourced from LINZ (https://www linz govt nz/) - Crown Copyright Reserved
glazed and more importantly, empty of people.
The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away

from civilisation.
Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,

and an equally cleansing ale at St Arnaud, we found
ourselves planning a return trip up Sabine Valley to the
Blue Lake.
Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to

the folk managing those predator traps.
I chose to use Backcountry Cuisine, Jetboil, Keen and

Top to bottom: Speargrass hut
The route we took Macpac products.
Can't go past Backcountry Cuisine and Jetboil

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GEORGIA
GEO
*
GEORGIA:
A LITTLE KNOWN TREASURE
Words and images by Pol Tarrés Martrat
When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit

that I had no idea where Georgia (the country) was
located, so I did a wee Google search. Turns out
that Georgia is at intersection between Eastern
Europe and Western Asia, bound on the west by
the Black Sea and to the north and east by Russia
and on its southern border lies Turkey, Armenia and
Azerbaijan.
Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area

RI RQO\ NP 7KH /LNKL 5DQJH GLYLGHV WKH
country into eastern and western halves whereas
the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range forms the
northern border and the Lesser Caucasus Mountains
run along the southern reaches, so you can see it
would be a great place for some snow sports.
Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting

this little known treasure that is Georgia from his
home base in Spain.
The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia

Top: Playing around on the catski
Left to right: Goderdzi resort / Cat team / Lone lines amongst the pines
Destination Goderdzi: Southern Georgia We spent the next two days playing around on the catski. The
Goderdzi Ski Resort is situated at an terrain, although not very steep, was really fun as the catski could
elevation of 1,724m rising to 2,364m, there take you almost anywhere and we spent the day doing runs in
are over 8km of slopes available and you the middle of the small houses and forest and some open areas
can find endless freeride lines outside of where you can play around doing fast, long turns.
the slopes. It had been snowing all night
and found plenty of pow, the snow didn’t Tuesday was a bluebird day with no wind and you could see for
disappoint. We did a few runs, taking miles. The snow conditions were great and you could choose so
pictures and videos and enjoying the many different lines. The conditions mean there is almost no risk
unbelieveable views of Goderdzi Valley. of avalanche so it was like one big playground. We only had a
After sunset we skied to the front door of meeting point with the catski at the end of the slope and the rest
the hotel and headed into the spa for a bit of you were free to chose your line. We enjoyed every second of it.
relaxation.
The following day the fog and snow arrived so we chose the forest
to ski as it provided more visibility. After a quick lunch we went
back to the top for a “sunset mission.” It’s amazing how the views
can change with a colourful sunset. In this area there are a lot
of small wood cabins that farmers use during the summer which
makes for breathtaking scenery with all the small huts covered in
untouched snow.

The gondola dwarfed by its surroundings... Goderdzi Ski Resort
Top: All alone in Mestia / Far right: Even the overcast days are great
Left to right: Time to relax / The views are incredible / Solitude and snow
Destination Mestia: Northern Georgia - Greater Caucasus Easy, cheap and fun.
Our destination was Tetnuldi Ski Resort and things here were After a week in Georgia, we can say that the
really different. The resort was much bigger, the runs steeper country exceeded our expectations, not only snow
and mountains higher. With that came more people, however wise. We loved the food, we tried all types of
we still felt like we had the mountain to ourselves. The first khachapouris (a traditional Georgian dish of filled
day we woke to a cloudy sky so caught the lift to the top of bread with cheese, meat or beans.) We also took
the resort, above the cloud layer. Magnificent views of Mount part in a Khinkali masterclass and loved it, making
Tetnuldi (4,858m) and Mount Ushba (4,737m) greeted us, it and eating the traditional dumplings.
was spectacular.
The people were super charming, and we were
We went with some guides from Vagabond Adventures, they invited to try their homemade wine and even the
knew the terrain as this is their home resort, and with a higher local vodka. Even though they didn’t speak a lot of
risk of avalanche off-piste and a much larger area to ski it Engilsh (or Spanish in our case), we were always
enabled us to ski freely without fear of getting lost. We spent received with a big smile.
the day skiing and enjoying the Georgian pow.
In conclusion it was an amazing trip to a country
The next day we went to Hatsvali Ski Resort where we did that is a hidden gem, and we know for sure we
a few runs through the slopes with astonishing views of the will be back again next year. It has so much to
Ushba Mountains before putting on skins and doing some ski offer; tons of snow, delicious food, lovely people,
touring. As time was limited, it was a short one but enough to astonishing landscapes, adventurous terrain and a
know the area has a lot of potential and thousands of places to charming culture.
explore amongst the big mountains.

Tips (and 2 feet) dipped well-into the deep end above Parque Nacional Lanin, Patagonia.
photo: P.M.Fadden
SUFFRAGE AND GROWTH
AN ACCIDENTAL ROMANCE
By Paul Fadden
I learned to ski because I needed the notes, random coins, a wrinkled bank slip
money. and pocket lint, enough--to the Peso—for
one last roll of the dice.
A weird tour through the warped brothels of
Italian immigration had just stripped me of What followed was a sixty-hour odyssey
a life’s savings, direction, and most worldly aboard two turbulent airplanes and two
possessions. So when I answered a call asthmatic buses, ending in regurgitation at
promising winter employment high atop the wheel wells of a rusty flatbed driven
the Chilean Andes, I asked no questions. I by one, Señor Nelson Rubilar Flores—
simply said, “Si.” ‘Nelson’ for short.
Raise the stakes; raise the allure, and so it My broad-faced Chilean patron smiled
goes until somebody’s ‘bust’. In my case, widely beneath dancing eyes. He spoke
to ‘bust’ meant a fate worse than drowning not a lick of English save a single,
by dirty toilet bowl. And I was tip-toeing intensely stressed declaration: ‘Eetz-Eem-
the porcelain edge, I knew it. Lumped atop Por-Tant.’ Ah Nelson, how right you are.
a kitchen table was a cluster of rumpled
He gripped me in brotherhood and chucked my
pack over the tailgate. I climbed in and raised a
thumb. Nelson punched it for Maipo.
San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera

is Cabernet country, where the “roads” twist
like vines and “driving” is aerobic. For sixty-six
invigorating kilometers, Nelson roared ahead
with reckless abandon. On the sixty-seventh,
he crushed the brake like beer can and I laid
eyes on my fate, the grand-daddy of Chilean ski
culture and industry; Lagunillas.
&HQWURGH(VTXL/DJXQLOODVLVWKHFRXQWU\·V
pioneer ski area. Its low altitude and roots
attitude paradoxically pin it down and prop it
up. Big June snow meant an early start to the
season and a dire need for staff. In me, Nelson
saw cheap labor plus nothing to lose, and he
was right.
Promise of income accompanied by

accommodation had already edged-out concern
for creature comforts or inalienable human
rights. But where, I could not help but wonder,
was that accommodation? Save for a series of
\UROGZRRGHQSODWWHUOLIWVDQGDIHZVDJJLQJ
shanties, the base appeared to be featureless.
I would have asked, but Nelson had the answer
in the form of a shovel planted at my feet.
“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent

gaze uphill.
A building nested a few hundred meters higher

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only its roof peeked above the snowpack.
Nelson was carving a trail towards it and
indicating, irritably, that I lend a hand. Cold
but sweating, we excavated around clapboard
walls, Plexiglas windows and doors too small
for their frame. Inside, abandoned armies of
crumpled wrappers, unwashed dishes and
rotting food covered every surface. A mouse
dropping carpet sullied an otherwise bare
FRQFUHWHÁRRU+HDWZDVE\ZRRGÀUHZDWHU
needed boiling, and electricity ran only when
lifts did. La Francesca, my fortress of solitude.
Back at the carpark I learned there was a

ski school and equipment rental among the
sagging shacks. It was by working there that
I would earn my luxurious accommodation.
Approaching the shop required awkward hops
through high, white dunes, and once there
Nelson forced its door with his shoulder. Inside,
and strewn everywhere, laid a disarray of
skis. In mismatched pairs old or new, large or
VPDOOWKHÁRRUZDVDIHOOHGIRUHVWRI\HOORZHG
planks. This plus the La Francesca had to be
rock bottom, surely, but the boot room proved
otherwise.
A dynamic demonstration of the benefits to be found beyond 'the known'. photo: P.M.Fadden
The author; finding footing atop the Catalunya Pyrenees and (inset) reveling in ducky-pow
among the Japan Alps." photo: P.M.Fadden
A mule, happily chewing hay, reined ‘Plata’ signifies money, like ‘bucks’ shovel; feed the mule, sort gear, and
over a bale someone—maybe Nelson— denotes cash, and my employer knew share the romance of sliding downhill
had thoughtfully placed in a corner. (The full-well my need. Beaming, Nelson with the citizens of Santiago. Nelson’s
room was a heated shelter after all, and dodged the mule to retrieve a pair of bread and butter were those city folk.
much snow had fallen.) The contented shit-kicker Langes. And that rounded-out A foreigner-lead class was incentive to
beast cast me an eye that implied I was my kit. buy. That I was a learner myself seemed
the actual ass. And I sighed to sense the beside the point.
legitimacy of the point. The assignment: resuscitate the shop
then work as its instructor, with no ski At first, the incessant pace of each day
Meanwhile, Nelson scooped a pair of experience whatsoever. slowed my recognition of the seed which
158 Vokl Supersports from the melee (I was growing. By the time I did, it was
am 191cm) hoisting the skis, he purred The following months are etched in there to stay. A surprise longing to ski
“Classes, Plata,” and “Eetz-Eem-Por- my bones as much as memory. Boil had overgrown the shock of being made
Tant.” water, chop wood, ski-train with Nelson, to. A dormant thing awoke and it defied

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all physical laws save gravity. Whether I set a boot pack into void. It was a >ŽǇĂůƚǇWŽŝŶƚƐ
blistering sun or bitter cold, I skied. I VFHQDULR,·GQHYHULPDJLQHGIRUP\VHOI
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no longer mattered.
yet somehow felt drawn to all the same;
navigating by inner compass, seeking to
ƐŚŽƉŽŶůŝŶĞŽƌŝŶƐƚŽƌĞ
carve my own line leading home.
Then a big daddy storm came to call.
Vicious wind coupled by low visibility Years have passed, yet skiing remains
ĞƋƵŝƉŽƵƚĚŽŽƌƐ͘ĐŽ͘Ŷǌ
closed Lagunillas for three days, sending WKHVRXUFH)RULW,·YHULVNHGIURVWELWH
Nelson (and the mule) scurrying to the suffered crooks, lied to bosses, bailed ϲϮ<ŝůůĂƌŶĞǇZŽĂĚ͕
valley below. I was forgotten, lightless on girlfriends, crashed in bathtubs, and &ƌĂŶŬƚŽŶ͕,ĂŵŝůƚŽŶ͕
and isolated within La Francesca. But accepted without reservation that this, EĞǁĞĂůĂŶĚ
rather than shiver, I made a date with to me, is a lifelong romance, simply W͗ϬϴϬϬϮϮϲϳϲϴ
said storm. Battening all hatches, and because Eetz-Eem-Por-Tant. Sometimes
͗ƐĂůĞƐΛĞƋƵŝƉŽƵƚĚŽŽƌƐ͘ĐŽ͘Ŷǌ
touching wood for an absent beacon, WKDW·VDOOWKHUHLVWRVD\
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WINTER FISHING
THEY STILL HAVE TO EAT
By Steve Dickinson
Despite our best intentions, when wool, you are going to get cold quick, again do not buy cheap. Even if
the air gets chilly, we tend to back so no leaks. In winter on our boat I the product says merino, not all
off. Fish are a cold-blooded creature, keep a dry towel in a dry bag just for merino is made equal. You tend to
they appreciate temperature, but towelling off, a second towel to keep get what you pay for. Merion is light
they do not react to it as extremely drying your hands after catching fish. weight, breathable, merino manages
as we do, however, like many moisture by a process called wicking
people, fish tend to be less active Second must do; is keeping your – in that it will pull moisture away
in the cold. As cold-blooded head warm. We lose 80% of our from your body which if chilled with
creatures, their metabolism dips body heat via your head. You need a make you cold. Merino is also anti-
when temperatures take a dive. But woollen beanie, balaclava, or buff. Of bacterial and odour resistance.
they still have to eat, maybe a little late I have been using a buff in that Never use synthetic or worse cotton,
less but if they eat, then they can be they are versatile, if you get too hot as it is quick to suck up water, slow
caught – simple. you can pull it down to your neck, if it to dry and should never be worn
gets real cold, you can use it pulling next to your skin. If like me you find
We spoke to a range of cold weather up over your ears and head, they wool itchy, there are now a range of
experts; fishermen, search and just give you more options. But buy synthetic /wool blends and silk/wool
rescue, alpine guides, and ski patrol a good one there are loads of cheap blends which are easy to wear. Wool
and this is their input. The simple key synthetic ones on the market that dries quickly and will retain some
to enjoying the cold is staying warm. are next too useless. A beanie and heat if it gets wet and has great
That is it, simple. a buff can also be a good combo if thermal qualities – just ask sheep.
it is really chilly. Word of advice, if
If it gets cold and you want to stay you pull the buff up over your neck Your other extremities are your
warm the first rule, is you need to then over your mouth, your breath hands, ears, and nose. There are
stay dry. Fishing and keeping dry will cause condensation, which make a range of fingerless gloves on the
may not be as easy as it sounds. the buff wet, remember keeping dry market which are great for fishing. A
The simplest solution is to keep a is the key. well-known guide showed me a trick
dry towel to dry your hands with after once where he had an additional pair
catching a fish or drying your legs After making sure your head is of extra-large woollen gloves that he
with when launching a boat. The warm next you need to look after wore over his fingerless gloves for
smallest hole in your waders will let your other extremities. Starting from travelling. For ears and nose they
in icy water and once your clothes the ground up, in waders make can be looked after by your buff.
are wet, especially if they are not sure you have woollen socks, once There are a range of commercial

hand warmers, they come in an array too hot so that you sweat, as sweat can Symptoms and signs
of sizes, and some are reusable. You chill off and make you colder. You want •person feels cold to touch and may be
either snap or mix them which causes a to be comfortably warm, and layering is a shivering violently.
chemical reaction, and they warm up. Do way to maintain that temperature control. •tiredness – person may fall behind when
not put them in your gloves – rather put walking.
them in a pocket so that if your gloves do When its cold drink plenty of water. Hot •clumsy, uncoordinated, may fall over and
get wet you can warm your hands up. I tea and coffee might seem a good idea, appear drunk.
have heard of people putting them in their but you will need to pee, which mean •changes in mood with irritability, irrational
socks in their waders but really if it is that exposure to the cold! A good option is hot behaviour
cold maybe stay home. To locate these if water, or hot chocolate. What is a real •person may resist help.
you cannot find in your local fishing store ‘no no’ is alcohol in any form as it lowers •slow to respond to questions.
look to any ski outlet. Reusable ones your core body temperature (even if it •shivering may decrease and stop – this
are more expensive but with repeat use feels warm to begin with) – save that wee is a critical sign.
become a far better deal. dram till you get back home and make it •loss of consciousness
part of the boasting process, my winter •pale or blueish skin colour
The art of layering. There is an art to suggestion is Fireballs.
layering. Key rule, no cotton, only wool, What to do?
some fleece, and microfleece. Over New Zealand is renowned for having The best treatment for hypothermia
the last ten years there has been an four seasons in one day so be prepared is prevention. But if you suspect
explosion of quality layering products. – check the forecast but do not 100% hypothermia, the aim of helping the
What used to be just an itchy thermal believe it if it says all is good, be prepared person is to stop further heat loss and
layer and a woolly jumper that has all for the worst. warm the patient slowly.
changed. There are now a full range of •Provide immediate shelter out of the
base layers, mid layers, and top layers. It In winter it pays to fish with a friend wind and dry clothing.
is simple- when it is cold put more on. should you take a tumble into the water •If fully conscious, give warm drinks,
someone is there to help out and in the lollies, chocolate, etc.
Fishing, unlike say tramping where you worst-case scenario, go for help or at •If isolated, body contact to reduce heat
are constantly moving you need to be least be able to see the first signs of loss and slowly warm – e.g. huddle
warm from the get-go. This includes hypothermia. around the patient in a sleeping bag.
fleece-based legging or pants. I have •Get help.
two different thickness fleeces legging When we think of hypothermia, we
I wear under my waders depending on think about people trapped on mountain Winter fishing is all about comfort and
how cold it is going to be. Top, I wear side in a storm. That is not the case. safety. The two should go hand in hand.
a RAB micro fleece, super lightweight, Hypothermia can easily occur when you In most cases there should be little risk
short sleeved, this is my go too product are exposed to cold air, water, wind, or as long as people are sensible and
winter and summer. Mid layer long sleeve rain. Your body temperature can drop to aware. In winter it pays not to go as far
merino and if it is going to be cold, I add a dangerously low level at temperatures from your safety access – your vehicle,
another layer on top, but making sure of only 10° or higher in wet and windy accommodation etc. However if you are
there is heaps of movement (not too tight weather, or if you are in 16° to 21° of going further you need to make sure
for the last layer) – then jacket on top of water you are at risk of hypothermia. you are prepared. Prepare for the cold,
that. An obvious observation is that you It can happen easily, I once got prepare for the worst and you will be
can always remove a layer, you cannot hypothermia waiting for a bus in winter. comfortable, safe, and prepared for winter
always add one. You do not want to be fun.

Photographer: Andrew Chad,
Athlete: Corey Seemann,
Location: Jackson, WY, United States
About the shot: If you ever want to frustrate
yourself, try shooting skiing at night with a
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everything went in our favour, but that's the
beauty of photography, it usually doesn't. So,
when this image showed up on the back of the
camera at the end of a week-long ski trip, we
called it a night. Because sometimes a little bit
of dumb luck is all you need. The image is fairly
simple when it's broken down. A dark room,
VLQJOHÁDVKDQGDZKLWHERXQFHVKHHWDUHWKH
basic concepts here. Tracking the subject though
the dark was a little tricky, but thank god for
modeling lights. But what makes it special to me
is the fact that Corey was wearing his daylight
lenses in the middle of the night. The coloured
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the real treat of the image.
Photographer Credit: 5HG%XOO,OOXPH

There are moments in a Mackenzie
W I N T E R
MACKENZIE
winter that stand out and define

the season: breathing in crisp
alpine air, the contrast of snowy
white mountains against bright blue
skies, local eateries with roaring
fires and hearty tucker – the perfect
way to warm up with good cheer
after a day exploring an alpine
wonderland. The comfort of steam
rising from hot pools while you
admire the starry skies followed by
a perfect sleep in blissful silence
after a busy day.
So head outdoors and come play

in our expansive mountain-ringed
plateau – the legendary Mackenzie!
MACKENZIE
REGION
Heliskiing - image by Mount Cook Heliski.

Mt Dobson - Image by Jeremy Lyttle
THREE SKI FIELDS

The Mackenzie Region has three ski fields, all situated within an
easy drive of each other. These family-owned fields offer laid back
uncrowded skiing and boarding with outstanding views of the
lakes and mountains.
Mount Dobson
‘Dobbo’ as it’s known to locals, is located between Fairlie and
Lake Tekapo. Famous for all-day sun, large learners area and
regular snowfalls on the peaks. Go up past the groomed trails
to try some off-piste on the smooth powder with views of lakes
Tekapo & Pūkaki. Warming up at the historic Silverstream Hotel
Pub afterwards is a must. A long standing establishment since
1877, the pub offers craft beer, delicious meals, and live bands.
Celebrate your day on the slopes in true rural style with a visit to
this treasure!
Roundhill Ski Area

Close to Lake Tekapo, Roundhill is one of the country’s largest ski Roundhill Ski Area - Image by Blackbird Media
resorts at a whopping 500 hectares. The access road is one of
the safest (no scary drop offs), and the carpark is adjacent to the
learners area where you’ll often find adults cooking on the BBQ
while the kids learn the basics. The more adventurous skier will
love Australasia’s biggest vertical drop (783m). Located at the top
of the T-bar is the precious von Brown Hut, a licensed café with
some of the best views in the world. Try their speciality drinks 'The
Jumping Goat' and the 'B&B Coffee'.
Ōhau Snow Fields

Not far from Twizel is Ōhau Snow Fields. This is classic Kiwi
skiing with the lodge offering old school charm with roaring
log fire, group-style dining, and a cosy bar. All ski abilities are
catered for, and there is some adventurous terrain near the top.
Stay the night at the lodge, or simply drive over from your Twizel
accommodation for a day on the slopes. The views of Lake Ōhau
have to be seen to believed!
Ōhau Snow Field - Image supplied

Snow shoeing with Alpine Recreation
SKI THE TASMAN GLACIER

The Haupapa/Tasman Glacier is New Zealand’s largest
glacier, and you can ski on top of it! And best of all, you
needn’t be a hardcore professional, this is for intermediate
level skiers. The runs are blue/green and range from 8-10km.
After getting dropped off by helicopter or skiplane you
find yourself on top of the glacier with mountains in every
direction, including the mighty Aoraki/Mount Cook. The
stillness up there is profound, no rustling leaves or singing
birds – just silence and the occasional avalanche far away
(don’t worry, it’s safe on the glacier). Explore ice caves and
incredible ice formations at a relaxed pace with your guide.
This is one bucket-list item that’s truly achievable by almost
any skier.
Mueller Hut - Image by Siller Francisco
HELI-SKI WALKING TRAILS IN WINTER
After some adventure? You must be, you’re currently reading A winter walk is a great way to boost energy and wake up your
Adventure Magazine! Look no further than heli-ski, this is truly immune system to stave off any winter colds! The fresh air and
the stuff that puts you ‘above and beyond’. Charter a flight for incredible snowy mountain views are sure to feed your soul while
a multi-day skiing adventure. Soar above the vibrant turquoise you get some exercise.
lakes, glaciers, and icebergs to spend your day amongst
lofty mountain peaks, skiing virgin snow and revelling in the To get right amongst the mountains you can’t beat hiking up to
grandeur of it all. Mueller Hut in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. Dubbed the
stairway to heaven, the Sealy Tarns Track in the Aoraki/Mount
ALPINE RECREATION Cook National Park is a must for the fit adventurer. 2,200 steps
With the arrival of the winter snows the Southern Alps are take you straight up the freshwater lakes of Sealy Tarns providing
transformed from tussock lands into an extensive playground spectacular views of the Hooker Valley and the National Park.
for snowshoeing. Alpine Recreation offer 2-5 day trips from The track branches off from the Kea Point track in the village
their Rex Simpson Hut at Lake Tekapo. Situated in the Kahui and is steep with a total height gain of 600m. Those wanting an
Kaupeka Conservation Park, part of the Two Thumb Range, overnight adventure continue can continue on the alpine route
you can enjoy views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Main for a couple of hours to Mueller Hut. This 28-bunk hut has gas
Divide. It’s wonderful to be exploring the snowy valleys, ice- cookers and solar lighting. During winter it’s strongly advised to
covered streams, and relax in the evening at the hut nicely bring an ice axe, walking poles and crampons. Pay the hut fee at
warmed by a logburner. Three days is the recommended trip the Department of Conservation visitor centre in the Aoraki/Mount
length, but even if you just have a weekend to spare you’ll still Cook village, register your intentions, and check the avalanche
get a refreshing break from the normal in a winter wonderland. advisory report as there is some avalanche risk along the route.
Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail
CYCLING THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

Aoraki/Mount Cook & Lake Tekapo are the two starting
points for the world-famous 315km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail.
This nine-section trail stretches from the Southern Alps to
the Pacific Ocean. If riding the full trail doesn’t fit with your
schedule, try one of the day rides. Some of the most scenic
sections are near the town of Twizel.
There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll

burn more calories due your body working harder to stay
warm. Studies have shown that your resting metabolic rate
increases when you’re exposed to cold. It all adds up to a fitter
body while your lazy mates are busy with Netflix and chill.
Some tips for staying safe while winter cycling include lowering
your saddle to lower centre of gravity and decrease wobble
on ice, letting some air out of the tyres to increase traction,
layering appropriately, and wearing gloves.
Adventure South have a winter Alps 2 Ocean packaged View from Mt John – Dark Sky Project
tour that includes mulled wine, hot water bottles, warm fires,
soaking in hot pools, and much more to ensure total comfort Another option is to bring plenty some cosy blankets and
for the six-day tour. folding chairs (don’t forget a thermos of hot chocolate!)
and find your own special place to ponder the universe
STARGAZING beneath the stars. There are plenty of good locations on
Winter is the best time to experience the protected ‘park in the the canal roads, and seeing the stars reflected in the water
sky’, the 4,367sq km Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky is truly a special sight.
Reserve. It gets darker sooner, and the centre of the Milky Way
is right above you. The spacious landscape coupled with strict HOT POOLS
lighting controls ensures you’ll get a stellar view of the night Everything you need for the ultimate day out is at Tekapo
sky in the Mackenzie. There’s a wide range of paid tours to Springs. Try a thrilling snow tube ride, ice skate on the
choose from: a working observatory, floating in hammocks in outdoor rink, then warm up in the hot pools. The onsite
hot pools, a wine cellar, farm tours, and even small group tours café is fully licensed with a wide range of food and drink
that deliver a bespoke experience at your accommodation. for everyone. Treat yourself to a massage or beauty
You can also try your hand at astrophotography with one of the treatment at the day spa, or stargaze from a hot pool with
region’s talented guide/photographers. their Tekapo Star Gazing tours at night.

" mindfulness = attention+intention
We have all done it. more popular, it is a good time before, ‘do you want to just programmed. But
Rocked up to the boat, the ski to look at our drinking culture. have an average day skiing as we notice what’s
field, the rugby game, or the hike, This is not a goodie-two-shoes, and feel sick or do you want going on inside us and
not feeling 100%. Sure, it was finger-pointing, evangelical this third glass of wine’ – it’s an how we react to other
great meeting up with friends the crusade against alcohol. This is easy answer. But only if you people, we can begin
night before but then adding too a look at being mindful, (which is are attentive, if someone else is to take control.
much merriment to the evening very WOKE at present) paying pouring your wine or you are not
basically ruins the following day, attention and maintaining the aware of time and numbers – We start to live
possibly the week. You might not right intention. you are not mindfully drinking. deliberately. Making
even be hung-over or sick, but Mindfulness is also about living things happen for us
the remnant of alcohol removes What is mindful drinking? with intention. Sometimes it instead of to us.
your edge, or, to use a term that Mindfulness = attention + feels like life is happening to
has been used a lot recently, the intention us, it is the way we have been
alcohol impacts or removes your
‘intention’. Mindfulness is about paying
attention. So many of us go
Intention; is defined as a noun through life never really noticing
as something that you want and or even considering how we feel,
plan to do: what’s going on in our heads,
or how we respond to the world
Stress, health, circumstance, around us.
weather can all get in the way of
our intention. An addictive world can creep
up on us slowly, it is not always
But alcohol is a substance that alcohol or drugs but can be
we ‘choose’ to add that often anything, anything that we feel
gets in the way of our core we must do ‘or feel compelled to
intentions. do’, from that 5k run every day
to simply checking your phone
Your intention was to go fishing, messages as soon as you wake
skiing, biking, or tramping. Not to up. Unaware repetition is the
feel like ‘ah shit’ for the morning subliminal cancer that can rob us
Mindfulness is also about
"
waiting for the alcohol fog to lift. of our intention.
With “Dry July” looming and with living with intention.
the event becoming more and If someone asked you the night
Living with intention
Your intention can revolve around an
experience or it can revolve around your
whole life. Some are happy and don’t
need to make any changes, others want In the US there are now full blow AF
change but are not sure how to bring it (alcohol-free) bars. In New Zealand, craft beer nation, there were no NA or
about and some simply have not noticed. we have seen the alcohol-free range alcohol-free craft beers available that
Our reasons for wanting to change are as increase, particularly online. Leading were brewed in NZ and so we went
diverse as we are. the way in selection is Clear Head out to the USA, Europe, Canada, and
Drinks an online company based here Australia to find a range that would
So much of our culture revolves around in New Zealand dedicated to alcohol- satisfy thirsty Kiwis. This is how the
alcohol and it is not until you stop that free beverages. We caught up with current set-up came into being and
you realise how often that connection is Donna and Rick and asked them how Clear Head Drinks now has a large
there. If for no other reason do Dry July the company came about. range of beverage options from NZ
so that you can see for yourself how and from overseas with many of those
often and how basic that connection is, How did clear head drinks come about? drinks being world leaders in their field.
once you have identified it, it makes your Clear Head Drinks was born out of
intention so much easy to fulfil. the need from the co-founder of the What was the biggest challenge you
company, Ricky Bartlett who decided had in establishing the company?
Mindful drinking really is as simple as to stop drinking alcohol 8 years ago Clear Head Drinks was the first,
paying attention and living with intention. but who wanted to still be able to drink dedicated NA/Alcohol Free online
Drinking is not about getting drunk, alcoholic drinks but without the effects store in the country and so being the
it’s just a by-product. But the social of alcohol. Looking around there was a first brought with it some challenges
aspect, not even pressure just location very limited supply of drinks and those because this path had not been walked
and process, can make not drinking drinks that were available tended to be before. Connecting with suppliers from
uncomfortable, difficult. As awareness spread out amongst different shops, overseas, arranging freight at a time
of the impact of drinking has grown, we supermarkets, and online stores. The when the supply chain was starting
have seen a growth of non-alcohol and initial idea had been to gather all the to be affected by Covid and coming
low alcohol beverages bloom. I recall drinks that were on the market and up with the funds to be able to buy
vividly receiving a pallet of non-alcoholic have them under one roof so that Kiwis large amounts of stock to bring into
Heineken as a promotion and didn’t really had one place that they could come the country were all big challenges. A
know what to do with it. We all agreed to buy NA/Alcohol-free drinks knowing large stumbling block was our website.
it would never take off. We were wrong, that they were looking at the complete We had a launch date in mind, but the
now, supermarkets have whole sections collection. The problem was that not development of the website did not go
dedicated to non-alcoholic drinks. I am all those drinks tasted any good and according to plan and so everything
a fussy beer drinker, I prefer a strong so we decided to look overseas where was delayed as we found a new
flavoured IPA, and now, sure enough, the markets were more established website developer, and this turned
there are several on the market that is to find a wider variety. At that time, out to be an expensive and time-
alcohol free. even though New Zealand was a consuming exercise.
"
Clear Head Drinks was born out of the need from the co-founder of
the company, Ricky Bartlett who decided to stop drinking alcohol 8
years ago but who wanted to still be able to drink alcoholic drinks but
without the effects of alcohol.
"
We will continue
to do our part
by bringing an
extensive range of
quality, healthy
and tasty non-
alcoholic drinks
to the NZ market.
As with the emergence of low alcohol beer I am aware that beer has a used by attempt in 2015 with a bar called "Tap
did you originally feel any resistance to the date – how do you factor that in with Bar" in Auckland but it didn't work as
concept? such and extensive range? the market wasn't ready for it and the
The idea for Clear Head Drinks came about There is a lot of juggling that needs to concept of the bar, opening at midnight
8 years ago but it wasn't until the first full be done to have products in the store to gather those spilling out of other
lock down that we acted and began building that have a significant shelf life so bars, just didn't fly.
the company. If we had started the company that customers have the certainty that
when we had the idea, it could have been when the drinks arrive, they are going Fast forward to 2022 and Unleaded
a different story as the non-alcoholic to be as good as they can be. When Alcohol-Free opened in the Wairarapa,
movement hadn't really taken off at that time purchasing from Europe for instance, it initially as part of the Greytown
and there was resistance to the concept. can take up to 3 months for the ship to truckstop venue. Unleaded has been
Fast forward 7 years and the overall move to arrive and if the product has, like with well received with even sceptical
a more "wellness" focused society in general Beer, a 12-month shelf life then it is patrons becoming happy customers.
and NA/Alcohol-free drinking had become imperative that what is sent to us is as With NA/Alcohol-free drinks becoming
more and more accepted worldwide and that fresh as possible to make sure that we more mainstream, we do see AF bars
acceptance was certainly growing here in have plenty of time to be able to sell having their place in NZ and it is only
NZ. When we asked people about our idea the goods and that when they arrive a matter of time before this happens
we were constantly greeted with positive at your door they taste as good as across the country, initially with "pop-
feedback and people saying how there was a they should. Keeping a close eye on up" bars and then with permanent
market for drinks like this and how more and when the "best before" dates run out venues.
more adults wanted to move away from the enables us to order in the appropriate
harmful effects of alcohol. You always had time frames so that we always have What does the future look like for clear
the odd person who would say "what's the the best stock on hand. head drinks?
point" but generally people understood and The NA/AF drinks market is only just
were hugely supportive and there is no doubt Do you see a trend in what is popular beginning here in NZ. There is a great
that Kiwis have really welcomed the idea – what sells best? deal of interest in the category, but bars
with open arms. There is no question that New Zealand and restaurants are still very slow in
is more of a beer nation than anything adopting the idea of alcoholic drinks
On a day-to-day level – week by week, have else and so we probably sell more and where they have jumped on board,
you been affected by distribution issues? craft beer than any other drink. We the options are limited. There is no
The distribution issues have been two- do also sell a great deal of sparkling question that when NA/AF drinks are
fold for us with delays and cost increases wine and one of our exclusive brands, available they sell and so it's a case of
when bringing the stock in from overseas Thomson & Scott, is our biggest educating more hospitality premises so
as well as delivery issues here at home. selling individual product. We are that they understand that they can sell
The importing of goods has become harder finding that buyers are willing to try this style of drinks, keep more of their
thanks to container shortages and the effect new things and that is why we look to customers happy and make margin at
of covid on the distribution network (as well increase our range on a regular basis the same time. We will continue to do
as boats getting stuck in Canals!) and so this to give more choice and variety. our part by bringing an extensive range
has not only increased the time to get stock of quality, healthy and tasty drinks
from abroad, but the costs have gone up. At There is a worldwide trend to AF bars to the NZ market and continuing to
home, the problems have been, again, due – do you think that will start to happen push the message that you can drink
to the covid issue which has taken courier in New Zealand? authentic, great-tasting adult drinks,
drivers off the road, and slowed the ability The trend towards non-alcoholic and continue to enjoy the ritual of
for our warehouse to pick, pack and dispatch bars is one that we feel is inevitable drinking but not suffer the harm that
orders and this has led to delays. here in New Zealand. There was an comes with alcohol.

New Zealand’s first online store
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www.hancocks.co.nz In the spirit
On the hop

Unlike anywhere else?
Yip. Here’s why...
For starters, it’s not crowded. It could be just like anywhere else, but it ain’t.
And the snow is incredible, because of, well, Come on over.

British Columbia winters. There’s plenty of room.
And the runs are endless, which means

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country’s largest slope-side outdoor Save up to
hot pools. Let that soak in!
The accommodation is right beside the lifts,

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our team is super-friendly, and well,
it’s Canada, eh? The only thing stuck up here is
the top of the mountain. It’s all pretty chill.
(Except for the hot pools. Those are warm.) See PanoramaResort.com/NZ for details.
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THE CARDRONA
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(VWDEOLVKHGLQ7KH&DUGURQDH[SHULHQFHLVVLWXDWHGDW
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4XHHQVWRZQDQGPLQXWHVIURP:DQDNDWRZQFHQWUH,WZDV
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6LPSO\7KH&DUGURQDDFWLYLW\FHQWUHRIIHUVÀUVWFODVVIDPLO\
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The handpicked trekking horses, with their kind and gentle

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PRXQWDLQV:LWKDUDQJHRIDJHVKHLJKWVDQG¶KRUVDQDOLWLHV·
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%HJLQQHUV·RSWLRQV²WRDGYDQFH$OOOHYHOVFDWHUHGIRU
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The most special and exciting way to create your lasting Wanaka memories is from
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INSULATED JACKETS
ONE FOR EVERY OCCASSION
By Lynne Dickinson
If you take a moment to do a little bit of people watching, you Synthetic: These used to be the underdogs of the
will notice that nearly every second person will be wearing what insulated jackets, but as technology has improved
we used to call a “puffer jacket”. These days they are not just for so has the ability to imitate what nature provides.
the avid adventurer, insulated jackets have become a staple in Synthetic fill jackets now are able to imitate the
everyone’s wardrobe and there is such a variety of them that it is properties of down and yet remain water resistant
easy to get overwhelmed by the choice. enabling you to use your jacket in wet conditions.
There are now quite a wide range of fills available, and each The downside in the past has been the warmth-to-
comes with its pros and cons, so it’s about deciding which one weight ratio, however, new synthetic insulation, seen
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down, and others have developed synthetic fill that is
able to breathe in high-output activities.

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Down: Down jackets were always you may want to consider the box
considered the penultimate in wall stitched baffles as opposed
insulation. The down (usually geese to the stitch-through style. Stitch-
or duck) has an incredibly high through keeps the insulation evenly
warmth-to-weight ratio and is the spread, however the fact that it
best insulator (pound-for-pound) in is stitched through the jacket can
the world. It’s lightweight and packs cause heat to be lost where the
down incredibly small. stitching is made, whereas the box
The main downside of the down- wall stitching allows maximum loft
filled jackets is that they lose their and designed to prevent heat loss.
heat retaining ability if they get wet.
This has been counteracted with Shell materials:
the development of water-resistant The outer material will also depend
down. This is simply down treated on the use of your jacket. Some
with a water-resistant coating at are completely waterproof, some
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it adds little weight and does not
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What is fill power? When looking fill vest with durable waterproof
at down jackets you want to take resistant coating from Huffer with
note of their “fill power”. This shows wide stitch-through baffles that I Marmot Women’s Highlander Hoody $449.95
the quality of the down; the higher wear almost daily in the winter with Pertex Quantum® fabric offers wind
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These help maintain an even pillow when in its stuff sack.
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bottom of your jacket. Insulation jacket from Marmot,
which has a super stylish cut
Wide baffles provide the warmest and cool baffle design. It’s warm
option, although they can enough to wear during the height of
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66//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK
SPE
E AK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232
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GEAR FOR EVERY ADVENTURER

www.marmotnz.co.nz
MACPAC'S PERRENIAL FAVOURITES...
UBER LIGHT RANGE – THE JUST IN CASE LAYER

Range includes²-DFNHWVYHVWVDQG
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provides lightweight warmth without
the bulk. It's designed to be a versatile
mid or outer layer — depending on the
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lightweight nylon outer features a water
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moisture, while the elastic bound hem
and cuffs help to trap heat inside the
jacket to keep you warmer. The Uber is
perfect for layering up this season.
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS)

is an independent, voluntary global
standard in the ethical sourcing of down
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Standard duck down
• Lightweight nylon shell with water
repellent treatment
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35,&,1*)520
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HALO DOWN RANGE – A REMASTERED CLASSIC

Range includes²-DFNHWVDQGYHVWV
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versatility. This jacket is a great option
for wearing around town, around the
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provides plenty of feel good warmth.
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encourages water to bead and roll off
the fabric's surface.
They have also updated a few features

to modernise the style, as well as
increasing the size of the internal
pocket. This removes the need for a
separate stuff sack because now you
can pack the jacket in there instead.
Features:
• Internal draft tubes
• Zipped hand pockets
• Tricot lining on collar and hand
pockets
• Adjustable cuffs, hood and hems
• Packs into internal pocket
• 5HJXODUÀW
35,&,1*)520
WWW.MACPAC.CO.NZ

GLERUPS BLACK RUBBER BOOT CHARCOAL $199.00
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felted wool? Try glerups. Over time glerups will mould
to your feet for all-day comfort. Available in slipper,
shoe and boot with a leather or rubber sole.
glerups is your best adventure accessory.
WWW.GLERUPS.CO.NZ
SALEWA
WA WILDFIRE LEATHER $299.90
$299 90
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the support and stability required for hiking to light climbing.
The high-quality, 1.4mm suede upper is supported by a
protective rubber rand. Underfoot, the POMOCA® Speed
MTN Path outsole has been developed to ensure versatile
v
grip and sure-footed contact.
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SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 $299.90

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shoe built for enhanced performance and control in a wide
spectrum of mountain terrain. Its high-quality, thick suede
leather upper ensures good comfort and protection and
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rock and scree.
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 GTX $349.90

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with a protective rubber rand for protection against rock, scree and
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cushioning and excellent comfort for a technical shoe.
SALEWA ALP TRAINER 2 MID GTX $399.90

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The customizable Multi Fit Footbed (MFF) with interchangeable layers
allows you to adapt it to the unique shape of your foot.
SALEWA MOUNTAIN TRAINER LITE MID GORE-TEX® $399.90

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lightweight, comfortable and supportive mid-cut boot performs well
on rock and technical terrain. The waterproof, breathable GORE-
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levels in summer, to rain, mud or lingering snow.
E.CO.NZ// 69
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Gasmate Turbo Butane Stove & Pot Set
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Kiwi camping Mamaku Trek 0°C Sleeping Bag Rumpl Original Puffy Blanket - Geo $179.99
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deepcreek local ipa $3.79

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er can,
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The ÀUVWWKLQJ\RX·OOQRWLFHLVWKDWWKHIURQWODEHORQtheir pouches have changed for the better and family with easy, push-to-talk
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development in online stores over the past 5 years. Now as we are
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online stores; some you will be able to buy from, some you will be able
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t r a v e l
FIJI
DESTINATION ADVENTURE
Fiji has for centuries been the

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destination for beaches and cocktails
by the pool. Sure, Fiji has all that, but
there is so much more; with such a
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and an array of beaches, crystal
shallow water, vast oceans, rivers and
mountains. Fiji has everything to offer
those looking for an island adventure.

Exploring an isolated cave, Fiji
Clockwise from top left: Surfing Cloudbreak, one of the many spots to surf in Fiji / Mount Tomaniivi Summit (aka Mt. Victoria) - Fiji's highest
mountain - on the Cross-Island hike with Talanoa Treks. / Sigatoka Sand Dunes Sunset
Fishing On Namotu, Big Game Fishing is unique diving snorkelling experiences.

With Fiji having some of the most something not to miss. While people You can even get up close and personal
incredible marine life globally, Fishing generally come for the surf, they can’t with some of the oceans friendly giants
is slowly becoming a popular sport in help but take some time out to try their if you go at the right time of year – you
the island nation. With such a dense hand at fishing and have a freshly can swim with Manta Rays or Hawksbill
underwater eco-system, the oceans caught fish for dinner when they return. Turtles.
of Fiji offer everything from Tuna and Half Cast Charters, operated through
Marlin to Wahoo, Walu and Mahi Mahi, Volivoli Beach Resort offers some of Located between the second and third
there’s plenty to catch that will challenge Fiji’s best Big Game Fishing on The largest islands of Fiji, Vanua Levi and
even the most seasoned fisherman. Bligh waters. The waters between the Taveuni, Rainbow Reef offers a display
islands of Viti Levu where the resort of vibrant colours under the water,
Although Fiji’s tropical waters house is located, and Vanua Levu combined provided by the hard and soft corals and
fish throughout the year, some types with depth and reef structure allows for marine life that call the area home.
are more plentiful at certain times than amazing sports and game fishing. It’s
others. If you’re looking to catch Mahi hard to resist the chance to relax on the There are around 230 hard and soft
Mahi, you can do so year-round, but open waters with a cold one as you wait corals creating a feast for the eyes. With
you’ll find them in abundance from for a bite. the fantastical beauty, it’s no wonder that
December through to February and this is one of the top diving destinations
again July through to August. Giant Dive into happiness in the world. Plunging your face beneath
Trevally flock Fiji’s waters around Dive into some of the world’s most the surface of these warm waters, you’re
February through to April, Wahoo from beautiful and colourful network of 10359 bound to forget the world above sea
July through to August, Blue Marlin square kilometres of coral reef, including level for a few breathless moments.
February through to March and Yellowfin the world-famous Great Astrolabe Reef.
Tuna making a popular appearance from With more than 1000 species of fish Discover Fiji by foot (or dune buggie)
March to April and several hundred sorts of coral and Fiji isn’t just white sand beaches,
sponges, Fiji offers an abundance of although there are plenty of those

Clockwise from top left: Beautiful beaches await / Aerial of the Wainibau waterfall at the end of the Lavena Coastal Walk. Bouma National
Heritage Park, Taveuni / Underwater image of lady freediving and spearfishing near Savasi
too! From stunning waterfalls, lush Terratrek. Discover Fiji’s most beautiful underwater passage to reach a secret
tropical rain forests, rugged coastline waterfalls and rainforests or head up into adjoining chamber – all you’ll need is the
and dramatic mountain tops, there’s the mountains for panoramic views with right gear, and a reasonable helping of
so much to explore by foot. There is a outlooks on the Pacific Ocean. courage.
reason why Taveuni is referred to as the
‘Garden Island’ of Fiji—80% of the island Explore the secret spots of Fiji Hang loose on the waves
is covered by tropical rainforests, along Ditch the pool side lounge chair and sign Whether you’re a newbie or a pro, there
with natural rockslides and ancient lava up for an adventure you’ll never forget! are plenty of waves to catch in Fiji. For
flow. Then there’s the Sigatoka Sand Whether it’s kayaking or rafting on the those after leisurely longboard breaks,
Dunes, whose rolling sand dunes are Navua River, jet boating up the Sigatoka head to Natadola Beach on the Coral
something straight out of Arabian nights! River or zip-lining through tropical Coast. But for those wanting to put their
rainforests, there are adventures for skills to the test, have a go at what the
Challenge yourself and climb the everyone of any age. locals call ‘Thunder Reef’, Kelly Slater’s
highest mountain in Fiji, Mt Tomaniivi favourite, Cloudbreak the Mamanuca
(Mt Victoria). The best way to tackle Described as an ‘underwater cathedral’, Islands. If you want to watch the drama
the mountain is with Talanoa Treks on the Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the northern from afar, there are many boats that take
their overnight excursion. Walk through Yasawa Islands are a must-do when you out to watch the action on the waves
some magnificent cloud forest to reach visiting Fiji. Sculpted by centuries of with a cold one in hand. For those
the summit at 1,323m. On a clear day, wave erosion eating away at limestone, wanting an all-inclusive surf holiday, stay
you will have some amazing views you’ll be absolutely blown away by the at Namotu Island Surf Resort , which is
across Viti Levu. Be rewarded at the end spectacular natural architecture right in located near many famous breaks and
with afternoon tea and a dip in the river front of you. Sunlight streams down into offer yoga and massages to help you
before heading back to the coast. the Pantheon-esque cave – the roof of recover after a big day on the waves.
the cave soars over 15 metres above
Get yourself on Fiji’s only self-drive the water. Guides from the local village
dune buggies on a guided tour with are available to take you through an To find out more visit www.fiji.travel
t r a v e l
NIUE
LIKE NOWHERE ELSE
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the smallest countries in the world, on one he tried to land three times but gave up
of the largest raised coral atolls on earth because he thought that the natives who
DQGLWSULGHVLWVHOIRQEHLQJ¶VSHFLDO· came to greet them were painted in blood.
(The locals in fact had eaten a native red
Niue and its people have won numerous banana, called the hula-hula.)
awards for environmental programmes and
VXVWDLQDELOLW\DQGLW·VXQLTXHO\QRWMXVWIRU Niue island is pristinely clean and those that
the tourists. The whole community is on do live there take great pride in their island,
board and involved with looking after and and unlike what Captain Cook thought they
PDLQWDLQLQJ1LXH·VXQLTXHDVSHFWVERWK could not be more welcoming to visitors.
above and below the water.
For such a small atoll there is plenty to do:
The absence of surface running water such When you go to Niue you can swim with
as streams and creeks contributes to the spinner dolphins and see whales close up in
LVODQG·VSULVWLQHFU\VWDOFOHDUVXUURXQGLQJ season. It must be the only island that has
ocean, the clarity of which is unforgettable. an honesty bar. You can visit the smallest
With no lagoon or fringing reef, the steep yacht club in the world, catch an Uga
drop-off is just meters from the land, pelagic [coconut crab], or snorkel in warm, safe rock
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are caught no more than two hundred
metres from shore and are in abundance.
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3DFLÀFDQGWKHUHLVQRZKHUHOLNH1LXH E

What is unique about Niue as an island are kilometres of coastline to explore. Niuean’s have a long history of star
is its isolation and its coral origins that There is locally available a map that not navigation and visitors to Niue can view
create a unique coastline. The whole only tells you how to get to a range of the spectacle of an unspoilt night sky.
island is dotted with a myriad of caves, amazing caves and chasms but also tells Guided Astro-tours are led by trained
sheltered rocky coves, chasms and secret you what tides are best for exploring each Niuean community members. Niue’s
beaches. The Huval Rainforest is home of them (by my own experience it pays to viewing sites currently used for whale-
to stunning indigenous trees and these do your homework). watching, are also ideal spots for Dark
have been designated as a Conservation Sky viewing. More details here:
Area to protect and conserve the island’s Niue is walking the talk on environmental www.niueisland.com/darkskynation
primary rainforest. protection with the creation of the ‘Niue
Nukutuluea Multi-Use Marine Park’. The The list of what Niue has on offer to
One of the most famous chasms, is Niue Oceanwide project (NOW) has been experience and to do is long!
the Matapa Chasm, in the village of a significant part of Niue’s sustainable
Hikutavake. An amazing and safe place development over the last decade. Based BORDER OPENING / WEEKLY
to swim and snorkel, encased by steep on scientific assessment and thousands FLIGHTS FROM NZ:
cliffs overhanging a deep long cool pool of years of traditional knowledge, Niue Niue's border with NZ reopens, and
and as always full of fish. It is next to the has established 40% of its region as a weekly flights from Auckland commence
open ocean but isolated from its currents ‘no-take’ Large Scale Marine Protected from Tuesday 28 June 2022.
by large boulders on the seaward side Area (Niue Mona Mahu) which is JUST 3 ½ HOURS AWAY: Although
creating a natural swimming pool. significant for a Pacific Island that relies Niue is a world apart, the island is just
on fish. More details here about Niue a 3 ½ hour flight on Air New Zealand
Another well-photographed feature of Marine Park can be found here: departing each Tuesday morning (but
the island is Talava Arches. A massive www.niueoceanwide.com check online as the day of week could
rock archway noted by Captain Cook change).
in the late 1700’s, it is surrounded by a Something new, (but has always been AVOID THE CROWDS: With a land
network of complex caves. As with most there) is star gazing, and once again area of 260sq. kms there is space for
of Niue, there is good tourist access, but there is nowhere like Niue. Niue was the you here. When out exploring you often
it is natural, you need to wear good shoes world’s first whole country to become feel like you are the first one to discover
and stick to the created paths. a ‘Dark Sky Place’, receiving formal the many secluded coves, caves and
accreditation from the International Dark- pools.
Apart from simply exploring Niue, you can Sky Association (IDA) as an ‘International
also go kayaking, biking, fishing, diving Dark Sky Sanctuary’ and ‘International Niue even uses NZ dollars – and
(Niue Blue dive company offers PADI Dark Sky Community’, covering the whole English is spoken universally.
certified dives). Niue is distinct from all of Niue with Dark Sky protection and
the other South Pacific islands because deeming it a ‘dark sky nation’. To find out more visit:
there are no beaches as such. But there www.niueisland.com

Real e xplo rers,
e u e.
Niue’s borders reopen 28 June 2022.

Your average traveller won’t be able to tell you where Niue is on a map – which is
why you won’t find the average traveller in Niue. What you will find is the world’s
largest raised coral atoll; unspoilt, majestic and waiting for you to explore.
Start exploring Niue today, www.niueisland.com

t r a v e l
THE ISLANDS OF TAHITI

A WAVE RICH PARADISE
Images by Steve Dickinson
As with most iconic surf destinations, it is only the
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way into the media.
French Polynesia is an amazing surf destination

for everyone, even on the not so perfect days.
It is about halfway between South America

and Australia, this wave rich part of French
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for its crystal-clear water, crisp clean barrels
and the notorious wave of death, Teahupoo
(actually surprisingly only one person has died
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seen Teahupoo at is worst (best) during Code
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ferocious that the ocean was closed by the local
council to all water activities (known as Code
Red). However, this was ignored by the big wave
surfers of the region, and I was lucky enough to
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I have never seen anything even come close to
the magnitude and power of the waves on that
day. But that was a once in a lifetime event, most
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Previous Page: Teahupoo at its best
Above: A boat is the best way to reach the breaks in Tahiti
Top Right: They start them young in this neck of the woods
Bottom Right: Tikanui Smith at Ta'apuna
Unlike a lot of surf destinations around Continue on that same road (there Best Surf Seasons in French
the world French Polynesia's locals are is only one) and you will arrive at Polynesia
welcoming and friendly. They love the Teahupoo, which is a very long paddle March - June: From March to June,
fact that you have come to share in their but do-able and can get crazy but the southern hemisphere comes alive,
wave abundance and if treated with the normally only when it gets really big. putting up consistent south swells that
respect you will make local friends in no If it is big and you really just want to create some great surf options.
time! just look, you can pick up a water taxi During winter: Once again there is
from the Teahupoo marina for an hour consistent swell throughout the whole of
French Polynesia is not one island but viewing. winter right up until October.
actually 118 islands spread across five Spring: As summer arrives things
archipelagos. Every island has some Unlike beach breaks, which most of us start to quieten down a little especially
sort of wave at some time of the year. are used to riding, most of the waves in towards the end of October this is also
Access to most of the reef passes French Polynesia are reef based, which the rainy season but it’s still warm and if
require a boat, however, there are often means they are shallow and if you you want to hunt around there is always
numerous water taxis that will take you fall you don’t bounce off the sand but swell somewhere.
and even homestays (pensions) where get scratched up by the coral. It worth Summer: November to March is
trips out to the local breaks and a surf spending some time watching the locals basically their summer and surf is
guide are all part of the package. to see how to avoid this. smaller and less consistent.
There are a few breaks around the main Another issue not often discussed is The bottom line for surf travel is don’t
city and as you would expect these do water flow. A lot of the reef-based waves always make it about the waves. If
get more crowded, one great break is are in a pass. Where water travels from you just focus on just the surf, you will
Taa’puna; seeing it close enough to in the lagoon out to open water and it fail to see what an amazing place any
paddle out too and fairly consistent not can be a lot more like a river than a rip, surf destination can be. The trick is to
to mention only the five minutes from once again keep an eye on the locals to love where you are and then add great
Papeete, it gets busy. know where to go and where to sit. surf as the cherry on the cake. French
Polynesia has a huge amount to offer
Further up the coast there is the black and great waves for everyone are just a
sand beach break of Papara, which is part of the full experience.
good for kids and families.
To see what is available visit www.tahititourisme.nz/en-nz/

Cook Islands.
Lonely Planet’s top place to visit in 2022
Float above the world’s bluest blue
OVERWATER HEAVEN
t r a v e l
VANUATU
VAN UATU
THE PLACE FOR YOU!
Life is about Moments! There are

moments that makes use laugh, cry or
change our perspective and open our
eyes and hearts.
The moments we remember are those if

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ZHÀOHDZD\LQWKHVFUDSERRNVRIRXU
OLYHV7KDW·VHVSHFLDOO\WUXHZKHQLWFRPHV
to holidays and probably even more so
now.
A visit to Vanuatu holds the promise

of incredible moments to be made,
remembered and shared. It is these
PRPHQWVWKDWGHÀQHRXUH[SHULHQFHDQG
call us back for another stay.
Vanuatu is not a about a simple list of
things to see and do, but more about
how it makes you feel. Its about moments
that connect us to people, places, and
emotions. When you Answer the Call
RI9DQXDWX\RX·OOEHVZHSWDZD\LQDQ\
number of incredible moments that will
make you feel good.
$IWHUDOODKROLGD\LVQ·WPHDQWWREH
taken to seriously: its about letting go
and getting ready to leap into your next
adventure.
We know people are still keen to get out

and experience the world in full colour.
Making connections, experiencing
different, treading lightly, but mostly
jumping into another place entirely both
physically and mentally. It is also clear
that smaller is better when it comes to
fellow travellers.
To be honest this is pretty much the

holiday experience in Vanuatu pre all the
challenges of the past few years, so I
guess we are good are it.
Vanuatu is slowing starting the re-opening

SURFHVVDQGRYHUZLOOJUDGXDOO\
reduce the restrictions and requirements
of entry. This will be a gradual process
linked to vaccination targets.
So, what is it about Vanuatu that will

make it a strong contender for your
holiday shopping list as travel gets freer?

Above: Matava River, Santo - Image by Joel Johnsson
Above: Gaua - Mbe Solomul River
Insert: Tanna Kastom celebrations
1. Get Back to Your Passions: Whether it Bungalows set in tropical gardens amidst everyday in how things get done. Kastom
be walking, diving, canyoning, or exploring blue holes, Champagne Beach, and respects the land, the people, and the
volcanos now will be the time to get back Lonnoc Beach right in front of you for community.
to your passions. I am sure you have a swimming and snorkelling.
full bucket list of sites to dive or walks to How can you experience Kastom as a
traverse can we suggest you make sure • Pele Island and its neighbour Nguna visitor? Spend some time in the markets,
that Vanuatu on your list. are in MPA Nguna-Pele Marine Protected attend an event such as the Naghol (land
Area. The island are a short boat trip GLYLQJLQ3HQWHFRVWWDONWRWKH0DPD·V
There will be some you know about such from mainland Efate which transport you with their skilfully made handicrafts or
as the President Coolidge wreck dive in into the truly beautiful location. There watch the kids play fearlessly in the water,
Espiritu Santo, but we offer much more are plenty of island bungalows to choose lagoons, and Blue Holes. It is part of life in
than that without having your fellow diver from and your daily activities can be 9DQXDWXVRUHDOO\\RXGRQ·WQHHGWRORRNLW
right next to you. The coral reefs and hiking, hammocking, banana boat safaris, will be part of what makes you let of your
ÀVKOLIHRII7DQQDDUH\HWWRUHDOO\EH VQRUNHOOLQJRUÀVKLQJ comfort zone but still feel safe.
discovered and Hideaway and Tranquillity
Islands are eagerly waiting to do what they 4. Adventure: Adventure, the dictionary
do best. GHÀQLWLRQLVDQGH[FLWLQJRUUHPDUNDEOH
experience. For some it will be the local
The remote Island of Gaua offers a 4-day market and the new foods, sounds and
hike with local guides to the highest laughter or other pushing themselves
waterfall in Vanuatu, Siri Falls, after on the hike into the Millennium Cave, or
canoeing across Lake Letus. Oh, and did choosing the option to channel your inner
we mention that you also stride up Mount explorer and walk for 3 days to the volcano
Garet the highest peak on the island and rather than 4WD. Adventure has never
an active volcano. been so much fun as it is Vanuatu.
• Perched up in a treehouse amongst
2. Off the Grid: Do you feel the need to the canopy of a banyan tree surround by 5. Road Not Travelled: If being the only
lose yourself in an environment where few birdsong and looking out to the rumblings visitor at a particular time is your idea of
people venture? Or to hangout in a no fuss of Mount Yasur, one of the worlds most how a trip of discovery should be, staying
bungalow on the beach or by the side of accessible volcanos, on Tanna Island is with a family in their bungalow, after
a volcano enjoy the hospitality of a local about as off the grid as you can get. Set in catching a light aircraft over the islands,
family who have looked after the land for the middle of a local village experiencing Vanuatu could keep you travelling for
forever? real island life is part of the journey. quite some time. Below are a couple of
There is no shortage of off the grid Jungle Oasis Bungalows, Banyan Castle suggestions but there really is no shortage
locations and experiences across Vanuatu. Bungalows or Tanna Yasur Homestay of opportunities.
These special locations offer some of the Bungalows love sharing their connection to •Epi Island
most relaxing and freeing experiences the land and life living next to a volcano. •Maskalyne Islands
DV\RXVLPSO\FDQ·WEULQJ\RXUHYHU\GD\ •Rah and the Rock of Rah
habits with you. 3. Connection and Kastom: Kastom •Moon Cave and Maewo
is what holds community, family, and •Hiking up the little explored volcanos of
Imagine: - connection together in Vanuatu. It is Ambrym
• Spending 4 days at Lonnoc Eco Beach unwritten and unspoken but demonstrated
For more information check-out www.vanuatu.travel

1.30pm Siri Falls, Gaua
Hiking Diving Culture Volcanos
Go explore at vanuatu.travel
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ISSUE 232

your Adventure starts with Us

23 Locations Nationwide | www.radcarhire.co.nz | 0800 73 68 23 | adventure@radcarhire.co.nz

34//Suffrage and Growth

JOIN THE CONVERSATION

World Class Indoor Climbing

Nirmal “Nims” Purja is seen on top of Mount Everest in Nepal on

08//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

10//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Discover four seasons of incredible hikes and walks at

Skotel Alpine Resort |

Magnificent mountain peaks, ancient rainforests, and forgotten worlds await,

The Timber Trail Ohakune Old Coach Road

18//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

Mangapurua Track (Bridge to Nowhere) Mountains to Sea - Ngā Ara Tūhono

Images and text by Red Bull

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22//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

Not least were the weather gods continuing to smile down

We also attracted the attention of some of the most

confident piwakawaka and robins you will meet. During

Speargrass Hut is another of the many stunningly-well

The perfect place to reflect and enjoy a final night away

Midday next day, after a cleansing dip into Lake Rotoiti,

Thanks to Don for a choosing a stunning itinerary. And to

I chose to use Backcountry Cuisine, Jetboil, Keen and

26//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

Everything we make is designed by climbers,

Available now from Rab specialist stores throughout NZ.

When this story landed on our desk, I had to admit

Georgia small and mountainous, covering an area

Pol Tarrés Martrat shares his experiences visiting

The remote untouched beauty that is Georgia

30//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

32//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

San Jose de Maipo in Provincia de Cordillera

Promise of income accompanied by

“La Francesca,” he said, directing a reverent

A building nested a few hundred meters higher

Back at the carpark I learned there was a

38//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

CUSTOM GROUP FRIEND

42//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

44//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

Photographer Credit: 5HG%XOO,OOXPH

winter that stand out and define

So head outdoors and come play

Heliskiing - image by Mount Cook Heliski.

THREE SKI FIELDS

Roundhill Ski Area

Ōhau Snow Fields

50//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

SKI THE TASMAN GLACIER

CYCLING THE ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL

There are many recognised benefits of winter cycling. You’ll

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56//WHERE ACTIONS SPEAK LOUDER THAN WORDS/#232

No matter your reason.......we’ve got you covered

Photographer Credit: 5HG%XOO,OOXPH

J[FTQçCUM/Carry Out Soft

:KHWKHU\RX·UHFOLPELQJ PRXQWDLQV KLNLQJ LQ WKH KLOOV