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Easy to build CNC Mill Stepper Motor and Driver circuits

by Tom McWire on August 26, 2007

Table of Contents

intro: Easy to build CNC Mill Stepper Motor and Driver circuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1: The Circuit Board of Appeals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 2: Circuit Cloning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 3: Photo Etching a Driver Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 4: TESTING..1..2..3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 5: Let's Watch it on TV . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Video . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

step 6: Linux Users . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

File Downloads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
intro: Easy to build CNC Mill Stepper Motor and Driver circuits
This is a follow up to the Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine Once you get the machine all put together its time to make it go.

So it's time to drive the motors. And here I've put together a circuit that I think is the absolute cheapest and easiest way to control stepper motors with step and direction
signals. It works with many of the free or low cost softwares that produce step and direction signals through the parallel printer port. I'll explain how it works but for those
of you who just want to get on with it... The_Next_Step

But I would suggest for those of you who are unfamiliar with circuits to do it on a bread board (see pictures). This way you can easly correct any mistakes and try different
things.

This schematic is just to control one motor so for the milling machine you need 3 of these circuits and 3 motors.
From Left to right and top to bottom. I try to draw schematics so that positive voltages are toward the top and ground or negative volge is toward the bottom. Inputs are to
the left and outputs to the right. Fist off the voltage that you are going to use to run the motor needs to be stepped down and regulated for the logic chips. I used a 6.2
volt Zener to do this because it's low enought for the logic chips to receive the signals from your printer port and high enough for the outputs to drive many of the
standard power FETs, so you may not have to use logic FETs like the schematic shows. So the resistor R1 drops the voltage, the Zener diode regulates it to 6.2 volts
and the capacitor C1 filters out any noise from the motor, and this voltage powers the two IC's.
The first IC (CD4516) is called an up/down counter. One signal from the printer port will tell the counter if it will count up or down and the other signal, called step, will
increment or decrement the counter by one count. Now were only going to use two outputs from the counter Q1 and Q2. With this binary counting method there are only
4 combinations of output from the counter: 00, 01, 10, and 11. These lines are fed to the A and B inputs of the other IC (CD4028) which decodes these combinations to 4
seprate outputs.
I did a trick here using the C input to work as an Enable input. If the Enable(optional) is connected to the parallel port and the computor tells it to shut off all of the outputs
to the FETs will go low(Off). So the four outputs of the decoder drive the FET transistors and the FETs drive the four poles of the motor.
Now everybody wants to know what the light bulb is for. Its not so much whether you use a bulb or a resistor, its that a bulb comes with a socket. You can get these
wedge base light bulbs from 1 watt to 20 watts. Start with may be a 4 watt bulb and if you find you need a little more beef you just pull it out and put in a 10 watt bulb. It's
really handy. And I found it's good to have some voltage drop there as kind of a ballast for the motor windings. The diodes catch some of the current that comes out of
the motor each time the FET transistors turn off. The diode feeds this current back to the supply.
When you get the circuit up and running find a power supply that puts out more voltage than you really need and then change out light bulbs till you get it running
smoothly. Some of my stepper motors are 5 or 6 volt and some are 12 volt but it all works out.

File Downloads

C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\StepCheap1.pdf (37 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\StepCheap1.pdf']

C:\Projects\StepCheap3D_PCB_GodeC.zip (34 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\StepCheap3D_PCB_GodeC.zip']

C:\Projects\StepCheapPartsList.rtf (2 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\StepCheapPartsList.rtf']

step 1: The Circuit Board of Appeals

OK here's what your all looking for. I made a simple PC board layout that includes 3 motor driver circuits connected to a 25 pin D sub Parallel printer port connector.
Here's a picture of the layout. At the top of the picture you see a place for a voltage regulator. You can use that or you can put a resistor and Zener Diode in its place(like
the schematic shows). On the right edge is a place for the 25 pin D-sub connector that connects to the parallel printer port. You just jam the PC board between the two
rows of pins and solder it.
On the left side are places for the lamp sockets. You need to look over the schematic to see where some of the parts go but it's all there.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
File Downloads

C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3D.zip (16 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3D.zip']

C:\Documents and Settings\Tom\Desktop\StepCheap3DBOT.pdf (30 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Documents and Settings\Tom\Desktop\StepCheap3DBOT.pdf']

C:\Projects\StepCheap3D_PCB_GodeC.zip (34 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\StepCheap3D_PCB_GodeC.zip']

step 2: Circuit Cloning

If you have a time machine you can go to the future and ask yourself to make the circuit board with the finished machine and then bring it back and finish building the
machine. After a couple of tries I got the board to come out pretty good. The machine routes what are called isolation paths which means it seperates the copper that is
associated with a conductive path from all the other copper around it. This leaves some areas of the board that are not associated with a path still covered with copper.
You could leave this extra copper on there but when your soldering it is easy to get solder bridges across the isolation paths and short circuit something. So I take the
soldering iron and touch it on the excess copper and peal it up off the board. It makes the board more like what you would get if you chemical etched it or bought it from a
board house(see below).

Any way look over the schematic and place the parts accordingly. I added a few capacitors along the power lines just for general principals. There were so few traces on
the top side of the board I didn't bother milling it. I just used jumper wires. See the pictures below of the populated board. All the little FETs ligned up like marching
soldiers.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
step 3: Photo Etching a Driver Board
OK, For all you chemistry majors who want to do something a little more professional here are some .pdf files you can print out and iron on or what ever you do to make
an etched PC board. There's a Top Silk (just for reference), Top Copper, and Bottom Copper.

If you want to go easy Just do the Bottom Copper. There's not that much on the top and you can just solder jumpers where you need to.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
File Downloads

C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3Dsilk.pdf (9 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3Dsilk.pdf']

C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3DTop.pdf (28 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3DTop.pdf']

C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3DBot.pdf (30 KB)

[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'C:\Projects\Milling\Mill_Drive\Schem-PCB\StepCheap3DBot.pdf']

step 4: TESTING..1..2..3
Don't be nervus. It's just a little electricity. First off it would be good to load up the KCAM (or what ever you plan on using) in your computor. Then when you feel
comfortable that all the parts are in the right place plug the parallel port connector into the driver board(as shown below) and put a low wattage build in the socket for the
motor. In this case I'm using middle, the Y axis driver.

For power I like to use one if these universal power adapters with selectable voltage output. They're cheap and they don't put out a lot of current so if something goes
wrong it's less likely to damage your circuit. Set the voltage low and see if you have some vlotage on the power pins(16) of the CD4516 and the CD4028. If you don't
have a volt meter just take an LED and tie a 10K(BRN,BLK,ORN) resistor to the positive(the long leg) and wire to ground tied to the negative(the short leg). Now you can
use this as a probe to see where you have voltage. It will be very dim but we don't want to draw too much current away from the circuit.

Now go into the computer program and find the Setup Table. Set the steps per inch to 1000. Then open the CNC control and set the single step for .001 inch and activate
the single step mode. Now each time you click the yellow arrows (up and down for the Y axis) the computor will output one pulse to the stepper motor driver circuit.

Put your LED probe on pin 10 of the CD4516. This is the up down input. When you click the up arrow the input will be low(LED off) and when you click the down arrow
the input will be high(LED on). Pin 15 is the step input you will see a very short blink each time you click a n up or down arrow on this pin. Pin 6 is the Q1 output. It will
change state(high/low) each time you click an arrow. And Pin 11 is the Q2 output. It will change state every other time you click an arrow.

On the output side of things we should see some activity on the CD4028 chip. Putting your probe on any of the output pins 1,4,6,or 7. These outputs drive the FETs. You
should see the output go high every 4th time you click the up or down arrow.

If this all makes sense so far it's time to get the motor running. The common wire or wires of the motor which are the center tap of the windings should be connected to
the light bulb. The other four wires should go to the four FETs on the circuit. If you are really lucky you will get the combination just right in the first couple of trys. Other
wise just keep switching the wires arround until the motor steps in the same direction each time you click the arrows.

Watch the video in the next step. It may give you a better idea what to do.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
step 5: Let's Watch it on TV
I just like watching a video better than doing a bunch of reading. Hope this is helpfull. Good luck with your projects. If the movie doesn't show past this link into your
browser.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUyqscxLJ4k

Video

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 step 6: Linux Users
I'm not a Linux user yet but I have played with it enough to be dangerous. But for you Linux users Chaddcurtis has contributed some setup files and information to help
you use Linux CNC with the parallel port and this circuit board layout. Thanks a lot Chad and more power to you.

File Downloads

Linux_stepper.zip (7 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Linux_stepper.zip']

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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 534 comments

jacko1987 says: May 5, 2009. 1:18 PM REPLY

Can you send me the parts list please.

jamwaffles says: Dec 20, 2008. 9:21 AM REPLY

thanks so much for this. i built a controller without the lightbublbs and a pc power supply and it works great with EMC2.
thanks!!

manuel2006 says: Apr 20, 2009. 6:10 AM REPLY

hi, you just ignored lightbulbs or your replaced them with resistors?, if you used resistors, how many ohm / watt are them?

jamwaffles says: Apr 27, 2009. 10:29 AM REPLY

i ignored the light bulbs lol. if i put them in/used resistors, would it allow me to run my steppers faster and what do the resistors do anyway?

manuel2006 says: May 5, 2009. 4:43 AM REPLY

I assume that you are using the same supply voltage that your motors need, in this case i think that you dont need light bulbs, they are needed
when you apply more voltage than your motors need. Tom said in some post that this is good because motors run better, for example using 24v
with a 12v motor and using a light bulb or resistor, but i still dont understand why. If someone can help us..

jamwaffles says: May 5, 2009. 11:18 AM REPLY

ah ok. thanks. however i cant help lol

Truerad says: Apr 24, 2009. 5:37 AM REPLY

Where Can I get cheap stepper motors ?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 qwertyboy says: May 2, 2009. 7:33 PM REPLY
try ebay. i just bought 4 for 20 bucks.

MrBeta says: May 2, 2009. 6:28 PM REPLY

Forgive my ignorance but are the bulb just there to test the circuit before connecting the stepper motor up? I read through the description and am still a bit
confused. I've read some of the other comments and I'm just thick...

om56 says: Mar 28, 2009. 5:43 AM REPLY

plz plz help me

Hi to all
I have a problem with the stepper motor, i bye a motor with 2.75v and 4.5A and 8 wires.
I try to run this motor without circuit to test them by applied voltage on each coil but noooo result.
I connected the motor to this circuit, am sure its right connected. I connected 4 wires to common and the others to the mosfet with right sequences, but also
the motor not work.
I tested the coils of motor it gave me a resistance between each coil wires.

I didn't connected lights or any power resistance to the circuit.

does it affect or what's the matter.
the circuit run good with LEDs

plzzzz help me

thank

snowpenguin says: Apr 28, 2009. 10:10 PM REPLY

I can help part of your problem. When you power up each coil of a stepper, it isn't supposed to do anything. A stepper works because the coils are being
activated in rapid succession. One after the other in a circle. Powering up just one will give no result, you have to power up each in turn...

OO

So the top, then left, then bottom, then left, then top again to go clockwise. Half stepping is induced by going top, top and left, left, left and bottom,
bottom, bottom and right, right, right and top, top to go counterclockwise. You can go either direction. That's all I can help you with. Hope the picture I
made comes out right.

snowpenguin says: Apr 28, 2009. 10:12 PM REPLY

No, it didn't. Just imagine a diamond shape with a coil at each corner. Instructables never does text art well. Oh well. Good-Bye

meisjedog says: Jan 29, 2008. 12:04 PM REPLY

Hello,
Is anyone willing to build a finished board to drive 3 motors?
How Much and how long would it take?
Here are the motors I would be using:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SMT-89/search/2-PHASE_1.8_DEGREE_STEPPER_MOTOR_(USED)_.html

Thanks,
Mitch

Tom McWire says: Jan 29, 2008. 6:45 PM REPLY

I have about 15 people now asking if I could provide them with the motor driver circuit. I'll try to get something together in the next coming month. I have
all your messages and I'll be contacting you when I have something. If any one else wants one let me know. They should run about 30 dollars.

kasari001 says: Apr 26, 2009. 1:38 PM REPLY

Hi Tom, This is a truly great instr. Please add me to the list for this circuit.

Thanks

Kasari

cncwanabe says: Feb 24, 2008. 11:42 AM REPLY

have you started selling boards yet I Would like to buy 4 of them

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 Tom McWire says: Feb 27, 2008. 8:19 PM REPLY
I've had some problems. I'm running short of funds and short on time. I might have to push it back till after school is out in May. If your in a hurry
and have collected a few more coins I have been suggesting some other sources. My favorite is www.stepperworld.com

megamatt103 says: Dec 3, 2008. 1:51 AM REPLY

i have a question, if the motor is rated at 3.7 volts at 3.5a per phase, what MOSFET would you use? Tom uses 100v 12a MOSFETS on very small motors.
Why would you want to use a 100v MOSFET at 12a when the motor is only rated at 3.7 volts.... I'm lost. Plus do you have to use a MOSFET or can a TIP112
or TIP115 transistor do the same job? Thanks

manuel2006 says: Apr 20, 2009. 6:17 AM REPLY

quote: Tom uses 100v 12a MOSFETS on very small motors. Why would you want to use a 100v MOSFET at 12a when the motor is only rated at 3.7
volts.... I'm lost

im lost too.. did you find the answer?

thatonekid says: Apr 22, 2009. 9:05 AM REPLY

i believe that the rating is only a maximum for the MOSFET, it was probably the most redily available MOSFET for Tom

manuel2006 says: Apr 23, 2009. 4:11 PM REPLY

i suposed that too, thx for reply

eaon says: Apr 17, 2009. 3:27 AM REPLY

Hi,
ive finaly got the circuit to work, but when i change directions on the jog, it chugs along few seconds and also sound a bit clunky, ive uploaded a video if
anyone can help
thanks

Antystein says: Apr 23, 2009. 10:27 AM REPLY

it looks (and sounds) OK to me... the delay is due to "ramping" its a setting that speeds up the motor slowly so that you can achieve higher speeds... the
"clunky" sound basically its due to the computer's CPU... try to run as less applications as possible, and set KCAM to higher priority.. (actually setting it to
realtime priority stops the clunking sound completely but the application freezes)... You don't have to worry about that sound, it doesn't cause any
problem anyway. (to me at least)

marciosouza22 says: Apr 22, 2009. 9:06 PM REPLY

Sorry for my lack of knowledge and congratulations to all. my e-mail marciosouza22@oi.com.br

marciosouza22 says: Apr 22, 2009. 8:52 PM REPLY

Hello I would like to know if can help me I have to step 8 wire motor
black,
white black,
red,
white red,
orange,

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 white orange,
yellow,
white yellow

and I picture as follows, as is the color sequence.

Thank you to those who could help me

thatonekid says: Apr 22, 2009. 9:06 AM REPLY

is this driver board specific to the milling platform you made, or will it operate any platform with a similar layout?

naveen.a019 says: Apr 22, 2009. 8:23 AM REPLY

hey ...ths is naveen....i hv done this driver and it works flawless.......and another suggestion......if u want to get full output from ur motor forget the light bulbs
and resistors......just choose a power supply....having output near to ur stepper motor rating....and connect...the motor common to the second power
supply...seperately...and dont forget to connect the ground of the stepp....P.S to the driver board..P.S....Hav fun....

Nav

TheLostAmish says: Apr 20, 2009. 7:25 PM REPLY

I have managed to build the driver, but I can not get it to work. I measured the voltage after the 1k resistor and its only 1.7volts. Isn't it supposed to be 6.2
volts?

Derin says: Apr 19, 2009. 5:57 AM REPLY

How would I import CAD files to CNC software without having to code anything?Or,allowme to rephrase my sentence.
Questions:

Do I have to code to make the CNC items?

If #1 is "Yes",how do I do it without any code?

gerritv says: Apr 19, 2009. 2:41 AM REPLY

Hi,
I build the PCB and alls looking well, my only problem now is figuring out what parallel cable to use? do I change the centronics plug on a printer cable to a
25pin female to plug into the cnc or do i make a "laplink" parallel cable?
By the way where is Tom? I PM him and no responce? Also he hasnt responded to this post for a long time?
Thanks.

vernonrob says: Apr 19, 2009. 12:59 AM REPLY

Hi Tom
Thanks for the great project. Im new to electronics and would like to know if this driver can handle 24v steppers? Im not sure if the resistors would need to
change or if any other items on the list would have to be changed for a higher voltage.
Any help to point me in the right direction please?
Thanks

sks122 says: Apr 18, 2009. 6:50 PM REPLY

First off I want to thank you Tom for sharing this project. I’m a toolmaker
and quite familiar with machinery, the machine part gives me little or no
challenge however I’m electronically challenge. I have assembled the test
circuit on the breadboard per your photo and couldn’t get it to work. I started
testing per instructions in step 4. Found voltage on pin 16 of both chips the
rest of the pins didn’t test correctly so I tested the signal on the 25 pin cable.
Pin 2,4,6 has a constant 3.5 volts, pin 3,5,7 had 3.5 volts when I push the + arrow and remains constant until the – arrow is pressed then voltage dropped to
0 volts and remains constant, there is no voltage change with each push of the – arrow or + arrow only when going from + to – or – to +. Is this the correct
signals or do I need to change something in the setup? I’m
using Mach2. Any input here would be deeply appreciated and thanks
again Tom for a grate project

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 hussammajzoub says: Apr 18, 2009. 12:00 PM REPLY
Hi, am so interested of your project,but i still have something i dont understand it ,is that there is two types of resistors and two types of capacitors are not
clearly obvious were are located in the schematic,and also in the componente liste you didn´t mention the other capacitor wich is seen the picture of the
project.Thank you...

Pyroflea says: Apr 18, 2009. 1:04 AM REPLY

I'm interested in building one of these. The one question I have is, would I be able to just replace the bulbs with Variable Resistors? (I don't have any
experience with building Circuits)

gtteclsf says: Apr 16, 2009. 10:50 PM REPLY

Hi, Please can someone tell me for the pcb 2 and 3, what pins to use on the printer port. I understand the first one as it is on the cct diagram but cannot find
the table for the orther (y, z axis pinouts)

Thank you

eaon says: Apr 14, 2009. 6:56 PM REPLY

hi
Ive tried the circuit and i cant get it to work. all that happens is the IC chips start getting hot. and the motor tightens up.

has anyone else had a similar problem?

ooda55 says: Apr 22, 2008. 5:27 AM REPLY

hi ther
i am building this project at home at the moment and its working out pretty well
but i have a laptop that doesent have a parelell port on it so will a parallel pcmcia card work?
thanks
chris

salalas says: Apr 12, 2009. 2:07 PM REPLY

My friend can you please send me the list with what i need???

optiontrader53 says: Dec 28, 2008. 9:07 AM REPLY

If you have a USB port, you can get a USB to Parallel adapter from Belkin Components (www.belkin.com). I have a USB to Serial adapter that I use with
some HAM radio software to control my Kenwood TS-440S/AT radio. It works great! Recommend you check them out. Price varies from different stores,
but the best price I could find was at Newegg.com. Staples Office Supplies also carries them.

epo says: May 28, 2008. 8:25 PM REPLY

Hi!

I built a cnc based on stewart's plan. Control is provided through mach3 run from my notebook. I also do'nt have a parallel port so got a pcmcia from
http://www.transdigital.net/info.htm

Cheers.

ooda55 says: May 29, 2008. 11:39 AM REPLY

sorry ti tell you but the card you gor was a bit of a bad deal
i got mine from ebay for 20 quid
wich is like 40/50 dollars compared to your 125 one.
the only bad news for mine is that on thrying to insert it into my laptop i found it didnt fit because my pcmcia port is infact a express card port :S
so i think ill just get my own driver board that works on usb or serial
and DO NOT use a usb to paralell port because 99% of them only work for printers

epo says: May 29, 2008. 9:59 PM REPLY

Hi!

I was starting to feel bad about the price difference but then again it worked! Did see those other cards at ebay but they didn't have the spec (i.e.,
works only on printers!) I need to run my cnc from my notebook.

Cheers.

de sasmito says: Apr 23, 2008. 2:03 AM REPLY

hai all i have some problem about this video , ican download this video maybe someone sent me Easy to build CNC Mill Stepper Motor and Driver
circuits video to my email thank you very much

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/
 salalas says: Apr 12, 2009. 2:00 PM REPLY
Can somebody please help me with the parts list?Thank you

Fwirt says: Apr 10, 2009. 7:12 PM REPLY

I noticed that a the other motor drivers I've seen don't use mosfets to get the power to drive the motor coils. Instead, they use the ULN2003 ic. I'm a bit of a
novice, but it seems to me that you could substitute all those transistors for 2 ULN2003's. Am I correct?

TheLostAmish says: Apr 9, 2009. 2:26 PM REPLY

Sorry to make another post so soon, but do you think these motors would work with this for small applications, such as etching PCB and plexiglass?

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SMT-108/STEPPER-MOTOR-6-WIRE/1.html

TheLostAmish says: Apr 8, 2009. 10:09 PM REPLY

Would it be possible to power the board separately (say by USB) and then power the motors using a separate power source?

If not, does the board have to be powered by 12 volts? Would changing that value require a change in components on the board?

forte1994 says: Mar 11, 2009. 6:41 PM REPLY

hi
are the light bulbs necessary.

jamwaffles says: Apr 8, 2009. 8:28 AM REPLY

I am wondering the same thing, although my question is do the bulbs allow me to run my steppers faster?

mikcomi says: Apr 6, 2009. 5:09 AM REPLY

Hello,
could I get 3-axis CNC driver schematic? you have just published PCB.
How can I make it go both way?
Thanks upfront!
My step motor doesn't go write, it vibrates
sorry for my bad english....

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/