M

ention World War II Messerschmitt

aircraft and the Bf 109 will imme-
diately come to mind, but the
Me 410A-1 also deserves a look for
its effectiveness in night fighting
and attacking daytime Allied bombing runs.
This German heavy fighter, known as the Hornisse,
or Hornet, first came online in 1943, being developed
from the Me 210, but with considerably more horse-
power (1,730), a new wing design and longer fuselage.
The result was an increase in cruising speed to 360
mph, a top speed of 388 mph and the ability to climb
to 33,000 feet. In all, 1,189 were built, including the A
version, touting two MG 17 machine guns, plus two
MG 151/21 cannons in the nose.
For my build, I turned to Fine Molds’ 1/72 scale
Me 410A-1 (No. FP12), which had its challenges.
The good news, this kit features stellar detail in its
raised and recessed panel lines and exterior features.
The two-man cockpit even has moldings on the side-
walls. Naturally, that’s where my build began.

36 FineScale Modeler May 2020

A HEAVY
FIGHTER Build and detail a 1/72 scale
German Me 410A-1
BY ASHLEY ABERNATHY

Ashley Abernathy takes a Fine Molds

1/72 scale Me 410A to another level with
added detail, a few fixes, open canopies,
and a fine finish.

www.FineScale.com 37
 1 2 3
Adding detail to the interior was essential because I wanted to build the Me-410A with its cockpit Oops! I broke off one molded-on antenna. I
open. Much of the detailing was done with a fine brush as I decided to skip using the later removed the second and replaced them
kit’s decals. with styrene rod and fine wire.

4 5 6
The fuselage to wing gap is evident here, but I opened the air scoop near the prop and the Nacelle attached, I drilled out the supercharger
styrene sheet or scraps will fill it and add exhaust stubs — all 24 — on the engine air intake. This is a separate nose cap. Careful
strength to the join. nacelles to enhance the model’s realism. sanding and filling creates a smooth contour.

Diving in in two halves and sports finely detailed been molded to the bottom of the shroud
The front cockpit and rear seat are one unit, instrument faces. I used Prismacolor silver making it difficult to open the ends and
but include nine parts. The front tub has and gray pencils to bring out the instru- remove sink marks though. I managed to
raised side panels, but no details such as ments’ details. Then I lightly applied black open the ends, but it takes patience. I used
buttons and switches, 1. There are decals, and gray Tamiya washes (95% thinner to a pin vise, first drilling a small hole as a
but I opted not to use them. I believe a bet- 5% paint) to the panels to create a used guide. Then, using my motor tool with a
ter 3D look is achieved by painting details. look, aided by Testors Dullcote. That was small engraving cutter bit, I enlarged and
However, the decals for the side panels are followed by brushing Testors Glosscote shaped the hole. I finished the shaping with
nicely detailed for 1/72 scale and would on the instrument faces to create a glass- the tip from a new No. 11 blade. It took
work on an aircraft with a closed canopy. like finish. about 30 minutes to complete each row of
Next, I made seat belts and buckles with Cockpit finished, I glued the fuselage stubs, 5.
Tamiya tape, 2. With clever painting on halves together, then broke off one of the Take your time to avoid damaging the
the tape, one can create realistic looking two antennas on the fuselage bottom, 3. openings and or cut into the edge of the
metal buckles. I had started this to be an The duo are molded in one of the fuselage stub as they would be hard to replace. The
out-of-the-box build, so didn’t plan to use halves, making it impossible to clean up time was well spent as the results make a
photo-etched metal (PE) parts or other seam lines under the antenna. To make up significant difference and I managed to
aftermarket add-ons. But that plan went for that, the wing halves went together eas- avoid any boo-boos drilling out 24
out the window after making an error ily, but be careful to match panel lines on exhausts! Plus, I also drilled out the air
or two. the leading and rear edges. scoop and supercharger air intakes, 6.
I painted the rest of the cockpit details I then moved on to completing the Another tricky part is the oil cooler air
and added wear and tear using fine-tipped wheel-well floor that supports the landing scoop under each nacelle. The piece is
brushes to apply Tamiya German gray struts. This piece must be inserted and fin- molded to fit the nacelle’s curvature. Don’t
(XF-63) for interior panels and RLM gray ished as the wing halves cover most of this damage their four corners as they are sharp
(XF–22) for the inner fuselage sides area, making it impossible to add this part and delicate. Dry-fitting is a must.
and floorboards. after the halves are glued together. I
The front cockpit’s sides have no strongly recommend gluing, preferably with
molded-in ribbing or wiring, although it epoxy, sheet styrene or square scraps for HINT: Don’t clip the sprues completely
does have moldings for instrument boxes added strength around the part to keep it from each wing half. Sand off the
sprue attachment point after the
and other controls. I used black fine-tipped from breaking off after the wings are wings are glued. This helps prevent
Micron permanent markers (No. 005 and together, 4. the sprue from pulling out a minute
No. 01) to draw in electrical lines without The aircraft’s engine nacelles come as hole in the wing’s leading edge that
later will need filling. Bottom line, this
needing to add extra pieces. separate parts and require little cleanup saves filling and sanding time.
The Me 410’s instrument panel comes once assembled. The exhaust stubs have

38 FineScale Modeler May 2020

A few fixes A canopy of worms to the post and glue down a wire scrap
A couple corrections also were needed. To open the canopies properly, the three kit as the horizontal component. The result
First, there is a big gap at the back parts had to become 10. Cutting into clear looks much more realistic than the
of the nose’s bomb bay that must be filled, parts is nerve-racking. Once the pieces kit part, 13.
7. I closed it by building up the bay’s bot- were cut, I gently thinned the edges and
tom with putty and covering it with a piece brushed a light coat of Pledge Floor Gloss Onward and forward
of .01-inch sheet styrene, 8. (PFG) on both sides to create a great clear Main construction complete, I finished the
Second, a gap at where the wing meets finish. I let that cure for three days. landing gear by adding wire brake lines
the fuselage requires smoothing the roots After a tremendous amount of time with their straps made from foil, 14. I also
and gluing in shims of thin styrene. Be sure test-fitting, filing, sanding, reference created extra details as my reference photos
the fuselage is centered on the wing, then checking, painting, dry-brushing, and showed each oleo support hinge had two
brush on thin coats of Tamiya Extra Thin applying small pinwashes, I completed holes. With little effort, and a few minutes
Liquid Cement to seal the wing, 9. the cockpit, 11. work, I drilled two differently sized holes in
Next, I cleaned up seams on the Before painting, I rebuilt the antenna
remaining parts: tires, props, antennas, I had broken off early in the build. First,
guns, nacelles, etc., before returning to the I drilled holes for the posts marking the HINT: The canopy is relatively thick
wings and fuselage. There, I gently spots by measuring the cut-off kit part. along its edges. To create a more
appropriate scale thickness, the edges
rescribed panel lines I’d sanded away. Then I glued in .03-inch Evergreen styrene must be sanded down. Start by
Since I had done so much cockpit rods and trimmed them to a uniform sanding the inside edges feathering
detailing earlier, I wanted to show that off. height, 12. toward the canopy’s center. Start with
320-grit sanding sticks and work up to
That meant cutting the canopies open, Next, I placed Tamiya masking tape 12000-grit sanding pads. Once
which gave me an excuse to add more cock- along the posts’ edges to protect the fuse- sanding is complete, coat the entire
pit detail. Back to my spares box for wires, lage before carefully sanding each post with canopy with PFG to fill any remaining
blemishes. Let this sit untouched for
sheet styrene, PE scraps, Evergreen styrene a file. A sharp hobby knife blade helped at least three days. Apply a second
strips, and even a placard from Waldron square the edges. coat if necessary.
Model Products, 10. The final step was to apply superglue

7 8 9 10
Putty is applied to the underside, Now the void has been filled with The completed bomb bay looks After cutting open the canopy, I
covering the large gap in the putty and styrene sheet. much better with the fillers in added wiring, PE scraps, and sheet
bomb bay evident when the place; I used liquid glue to secure styrene for more detail in the
wings are attached. the wing shims. cockpit.

11 12 13
Masking the canopy with Bare-Metal Foil The antennas on the plane’s underside … after using a hobby knife blade to square
prepares the plane for painting. removed earlier were replaced with .03-inch the rod’s edges, I superglued wire over the
Evergreen styrene rod and metal wire. … posts.

www.FineScale.com 39
 14 15 16
Next, I added brakes lines and clamps to finish Additional detail is added by drilling With the canopy masked, painting began. I
the landing gear struts. lightening holes in the oleo hinge as found in applied a two-tone green early war scheme to
contemporary reference photos. match the kit’s boxtop.

17 18
On the underside, I sprayed fine lines of black on all the panel lines and Next, the upper surface is airbrushed with the lighter green and
shadowy areas to pre-shade the model. highlights added. A final light mist of the base coat blended the colors.

the gear; it was great way to improve the by 5%-10% to lighten the colors slightly. these prior to painting, thinking it would
look without adding parts, 15. Once all colors were mixed, I thinned look better to paint them with the under
After a few minor fixes and touch-ups, I each by 60%-75% for airbrushing. (I’m not surface rather than adding them later. I
moved on to painting, cleaning up, and a stickler for precise measurements.) should have waited until after painting
masking wheel wells and the bomb bay with I sprayed the underside panel lines and the wing.
facial tissue and tape. I then masked the can- shadowy areas with a fine black line for Not only did I break off the counter-
opy with Bare-Metal Foil, by far the best pre-shading. Then followed with my RLM weight, but somehow it apparently left the
material I’ve found for canopy masking, 16. 65 mix painted over the bottom, paying planet. After more than an hour’s search,
I painted the early-war two-tone green close attention to spray panel centers. I returned to the Evergreen .03-inch rod
scheme on all upper surfaces, as on the box Careful spraying of this base coat allows and created a post then squared it with a
art, but decided not to use the kit decals. shadows to show through slightly. I didn’t new knife blade and carved the teardrop
Instead, I used an Aeromaster decal set want to overemphasize the effect, 17. shaped weight from the same stock. On my
(No. 72-149) that included the same Once the underside was completed, third try, I managed a reasonable copy of
Me 410A-1 camouflage as on the kit box, Tamiya tape marked a hard-line edge the kit part.
but with a different aircraft code. around the fuselage, wings, and engine Back to painting, I repeated the high-
Not being a German WWII color nacelles to begin painting the lighter of the lighting and blending process for the darker
expert, I used what Tamiya paints I had on two green colors on the upper surfaces. green just as I had the lighter green, then
hand that I thought a close match to the Starting with a complete coat of the let the paint cure for a day or two.
real thing. RLM 70 base, I mixed a highlight color by Next, I applied a thin coat of Testors
I used a mix of 90% light blue (XF-23) decanting some of the base mixture into a Glosscote to prepare the surface for decals.
and 10% white (X-2) to mimic the RLM separate cup and almost doubled the mix- I used the unit markings and national
65 light blue underside color. The two ture by adding flat white. insignia from the Aeromaster set, and the
greens I used were black green (XF-27) for I added more Tamiya thinner (about data and warning decals from the kit. I was
RLM 71 and dark green (XF-61) for RLM 25%) to thin the mix further for airbrushing, surprised at how thick the kit decals
70. Each was mixed with flat white (XF-2) then sprayed the center of each panel up to appeared. However, after the data decals
the edges, 18. A light coat of the base color settled they essentially had melted into the
HINT: I mix all of my paints in small plastic blend the layers, resulting in soft, not overly surface for an excellent result, 19.
lab sample bottles. They are convenient to contrasing panel shading. After allowing the decals to dry a few
use, easy to clean up, and seal well. Mine Allowing the model to dry for an hour, I days I applied more
are made of high-density polyethylene
(HDPE) to provide good chemical (various masked the upper surfaces and airbrushed Glosscote to seal them.
thinners) and impact resistance (when I the RLM 71 layer. While I was waiting, I painted the props,
drop it on the concrete floor). My bottles landing gear, and landing gear doors; I fin-
were a gift, but similar ones can be found
at chemical and environmental lab Curses, foiled again! ished the landing gear in the same way I
supply companies. Rats! I broke off one of the aileron counter- had the cockpit.
weights under the wing. I had attached One of the most important steps in

40 FineScale Modeler May 2020

building aircraft, I feel, is attaching the black (XF-1) wash was applied to upper Meet the author
landing gear so it is aligned properly. It surfaces to create subtle weathering. Not
needs to be strong and stable. Out of kilter done yet, I followed with a dust wash mix Ashley, 55, has been
landing gear legs or wheels really stand out, of 5% buff (XF-57) and 95% thinner. married to his patient
and not in a good way. I attached the struts, Misting on this wash helped tone down the wife Mary-Sam for 29
support arms, and tires wiht good, old- newness of decals. A silver Prismacolor years and is the
fashioned tube glue, which allows time to pencil added chipped paint and scuff marks father of five — three
adjust alignment and creates a strong bond. to the paint, 21. girls Tori, Claudia, and
This was left overnight to dry, 20. Finally, I sprayed Dullcote across the Kelsey, and two boys,
entire model, let it dry an hour, then care- Jonathan and Logan.
Finishing touches fully removed the foil from the canopy. The He started helping
The next day, I painted the exhaust stubs sticky residue left behind is easily removed his dad with his
flat black, then followed with a dry-brushing with cotton swaps soaked in Goo Gone. model railroad, but
of silver, and a wash of Mig Productions To finish, I attached the props, antenna, by middle school had
pigments; light rust (PO24) and standard antenna wires, landing gear and bomb moved on to making all kinds of models.
rust (PO25). I mixed the pigments with bay doors, and open canopies. As a final He graduated from Virginia Military
about 90% Turpenoid, brushing on the mix, touch I used Mig Productions pigments Institute and picked up modeling again in
but being careful to keep the wash on the black smoke (P023) to simulate gun muzzle 2005. Ashley works for a large insurance
stubs. I followed with a light brushing of residue and engine exhaust; and earth company and is a member of IPMS
black pigments along the nacelles to suggest tone, Europe dust (PO28) was applied to Richmond and AMPS Central Virginia. He
exhaust staining. the wheels. lives in Glen Allen, Va., and is chairman of
Next, I lightly airbrushed a mix of 95% While time-consuming this model the 2021 AMPS International Convention
thinner and 5% brown (XF-10) along the turned out better than I had imagined and coming to Newport News, Va.
underside panel lines. A similarly mixed flat is a fine addition to my aircraft shelf. FSM

19 20 21
With painting completed, a gloss coat and decals were added before a Landing gear in place and a new A silver pencil was used to create
final gloss coat sealed everything. A flat coat came later. aileron counterweight created, a chipped paint look.
the plane is nearly complete.

Open canopies along with careful painting and

weathering create a memorable Messerschmitt.