Topy's World

topysworld.com /en/crochet/bigli-migli

Get the .PDF pattern at a symbolic price HERE

I met with Bigli Migli stickers first on Facebook and I really like them. They are simple but so adorable. So I asked
their creator Sepideh Davoudi if she allowed me to create my crochet Bigli Migli dolls and publish their pattern. She
was kind and gave me her permission. I thank her very much!

I've made a FREE PATTERN, which you can find below. Please note, that this pattern is for personal use only and
may not be resold or redistributed. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding! I’d be happy if you
send photos of your creations which you made with this pattern. Happy crocheting!

source: Facebook

If you find the description useful and you have a chance then you can support my work HERE by buying the
pattern in .PDF format at a symbolic price.

- MATERIALS* -
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Yarn:

- Himalaya – Deluxe Bamboo [50g/125m, 60% bamboo, 40% cotton]

’01 White’ color for the body

- Schachenmayr – Catania [50g/125m, 100% cotton]

’00110 Black’ color for limbs and eyes

’00115 Red’ color for the heart and the bow

Fiberfill: 100% polyester

Crochet hook: 2 mm, heart and bow: 2.5 mm

Yarn needle

Scissors

* Size of the creations made with the listed tools (appr.): Height: 12 cm / 4.72”; Width (head): 9 cm / 3.54” - Deluxe
Bamboo yarn is really soft, so I love it, but I used 100% mercerized cotton to make the limbs, because it is stronger.
You can use other type of yarns but in that case your creation may look different and may have other sizes than
mine.

- ABBREVIATIONS -

BLO = back loops only

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

dch = double chain stitch

dec = decrease (invisible decrease with hdc)

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase (with hdc)

R = round (R1: first round, R2: 2nd round, etc.)

sc = single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

trc = triple crochet

! NOTE: Amigurumi dolls usually made of sc stitches, but this doll is made of hdc stitches.
I worked in continuous rounds vs. joined rounds – except where I marked it.
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- PATTERN -

Head (with white yarn)

R1: 9 hdc in Magic Ring (9)

R2: 9 inc (18)

R3: (1 hdc, 1 inc) – 9 times (27)

R4: (2 hdc, 1 inc) – 9 times (36)

R5: (1 hdc, 1 inc, 2 hdc) – 9 times (45)

R6: (4 hdc, 1 inc) – 9 times (54)

R7: (8 hdc, 1 inc) – 6 times (60)

R8: (4 hdc, 1 inc, 5 hdc) – 6 times (66)

R9: (21 hdc, 1 inc) – 3 times (69)

R10: (11 hdc, 1 inc, 11 hdc) – 3 times (72)

R11-15: 72 hdc (72)

R16: (10 hdc, 1 dec) – 6 times (66)

R15: (4 hdc, 1 dec, 5 hdc) – 6 times (60)

R16: (8 hdc, 1 dec) – 6 times (54)

Start stuffing.

R17: (2 hdc, 1 dec, 3 hdc, 1 dec) – 6 times (42)

R18: (2 hdc, 1 dec) – 10 times, 2 hdc (32)

R19: (2 hdc, 1 dec) – 8 times (24)

Continue stuffing. Make sure to stuff firmly. It doesn’t have to be as hard as a stone but it shouldn’t be loose.
*Photo1

R20: 12 dec (12)

Fasten off and close the remaining hole. *Photo2-4

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Body (with white yarn)

! I join rounds with a slip stich, then I make 1 chain. It is marked with [1 sl st 1 ch] at the end of the rows. But these
don’t count as stitches, so they are not count in the number in the parentheses, at the end of the rows. I start the
next round into the same stich as the sl st join.

R1:11 hdc in Magic Ring, [1 sl st, 1 ch] (11)

R2: 11 inc, [1 sl st, 1 ch] (22)

R3: (1 hdc, 1 inc – 11 times, [1 sl st, 1 ch] (33)

R4: (2 hdc, 1 inc) – 11 times, [1 sl st, 1 ch] (44) *Photo5

R5: 44 hdc BLO, [1 sl st] (44)

! I join the 5th round with a sl st, but I don’t make 1 ch, because I will work in continuous rounds from now. So I
start the 6th row to the next stich and I make the 42th hdc into the last sl st:

R6: 5 hdc, 1 dec, 20 hdc, 1 dec, 15 hdc (42) *Photo6

R7: 42 hdc (42)

R8: 9 hdc, 1 dec, 19 hdc, 1 dec, 10 hdc (40)

R9: (18 hdc, 1 dec) – twice (38)

R10: 13 hdc, 1 dec, 17 hdc, 1 dec, 4 hdc (36)

R11: 5 hdc, 1 dec, 16 hdc, 1 dec, 11 hdc (34)

R12: (15 hdc, 1 dec) – twice (32)

R13: 32 hdc (32) *Photo7

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Since I make this doll with hdc instead of sc, and I mostly work in continuous rounds, the body is a bit asymmetric
now. So some more stitches are needed:

4 hdc, 2 sc, 1 sl st

Now the body is symmetric. *Photo8 Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body but not too firmly, so
the doll can sit stably. *Photo9 Finally attach the body to the head. I usually count 32 „holes” at the bottom of the
head, and I follow them while I sew, so the result will be neat and it won’t be asymmetric. *Photo10-13

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Arms (make 2 with black yarn)

In favor of visibility I illustrate them with a thicker, colored yarn, instead of black.

R1: 2 sc in Magic Ring, 2 hdc, 2 sc (6) *Photo15

Make sure you leave long yarn tail when you make the Magic Ring (ca. 15 cm/6”), because we will work with it later.
(Yarn1)

1 sl st (I join the round with a sl st, making sure that the yarn tail (Yarn1) is on the ‘right’ side (on my side). *Photo16

11 dch (= wrap the yarn tail (Yarn1) *Photo17, then make a chain with the working yarn (Yarn2). *Photo18-20)

Cut the yarn (Yarn2) leaving a long tail for sewing. Attach the arms to sides of body, into the top row of the body.
*Photo21 Knot the yarn *Photo22, and hide them in the body. *Photo23

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7/12
Legs (make 2 with black yarn)

R1: 3 sc in Magic Ring, 3 dc, 3 sc (6)

Make sure you leave long yarn tail when you make the Magic Ring (ca. 15 cm/6”), because we will work with it later.
(Yarn1)

1 sl st (I join the round with a sl st, making sure that the yarn tail (Yarn1) is on the right side (on your side). *Photo25

Cut the working yarn (Yarn2), leaving a long tail for working. Pull it through the center of the Magic Ring, from the
‘wrong’ to the ‘right’ side. Make sure you don’t rid off the chain on your hook. Photo26-27

11 dch (wrap the yarn tail (Yarn1), then make a chain with the working yarn (Yarn2). *Photo28-31 When you make
the first dch, make sure to hold the yarn really tight, because this enables the foot and the leg to meet at a right
angle.)

Attach the legs at the bottom of the body, between R3 and R4 – just like the arms. *Photo32

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Eyes

Sew the eyes with black yarn, between R12 and R13 of the head. Knot the ends of the yarn, *Photo33 and hide
them in the body.

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Heart (with red yarn)

2 hdc, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 2 hdc, 1 ch, 1 sl st in Magic Ring *Photo34

Cut the yarn and pull it through the center of the Magic Ring (from the “right” side to the “wrong” side). Pull the Magic
Ring closed, make a knot *Photo35, and sew it onto the body.

Bow (with red yarn)

3 ch, 4 trc, 3 ch, 1 sl st, 3 ch, 4 trc, 3 ch, 1 st in Magic Ring*Photo36

Cut the yarn and pull it through the center of the Magic Ring (from the “right” side to the “wrong” side). Pull the Magic
Ring closed, and make a knot. Wrap the center of the bow around and knot the yarn again, on the back side of the
bow. *Photo37

Simply embroider the white dots into the bow or use for example white dimensional (puffy) fabric paint. *Photo38

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Hair (with black yarn)

Simply sew two hairs onto the head of the girl. For the boy, knot a short yarn onto the top of the head: fold it in half,
pull it through a stitch in the top of the head, finally pull the 2 ends of the yarn through the loop.

Scarf (optional - with red yarn, I used 3.25 mm crochet hook)

R1: 142 ch, turn

R2: 140 hdc, 2 ch, turn – starting in the 3rd chain from hook

R3: 140 hdc – starting in the 3rd chain from hook

I knot some short yarns at the two ends of the scarf and it’s done.

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